TERRY’S  GUIDE-BOOKS 

AND  OTHER  PUBLICATIONS 


Terry’s  Guide  to  the  Japanese  Empire,  including  Korea  (Chosen)  and 
Formosa  (Taiwan),  with  Chapters  on  Manchuria,  the  Overland  Route  to  Peking, 
The  Trans-Siberian  Railway,  Hawaii  and  the  Chief  Ocean  Routes  to  Japan. 
8 specially  drawn  maps  and  21  plans.  Pocket  size.  Flexible  covers.  1080  pages. 
Price  $5.00,  American  money;  ten  yen,  Japanese  money. 

Historical — Descriptive — Practical — Trustworthy  and  Immensely  Useful.  In- 
dispensable to  the  traveler  who  would  see  all  there  is  worth  seeing  in  Japan  in  the 
best  manner,  the  shortest  time  and  with  the  least  outlay  of  money.  Every  city, 
town,  village,  railway,  temple,  museum,  picture  gallery,  public  building  and  place 
of  any  importance  is  described  carefully  and  accurately. 

A companion  book  to  the  Mexico  Guide,  with  ample  and  illuminating  notes 
on  Geography,  Language,  Literature,  History,  Architecture,  Art,  the  People  and 
their  Homes,  Crafts,  Customs,  Sports  and  Religions,  the  Imperial  Family  and 
the  Government  and  Its  Functions.  Likewise  instructive  Monograms  on  How 
to  Reach  Japan,  Traveling  Expenses,  Money,^ Guides,  Seasons,  Climate,  Hotels 
and  Inns,  Food,  Tips,  Plan  of  Tour,  Health,  What  to  Wear,  Photography,  Hunt- 
ing and  Fishing,  Automobiling,  Mt.  Climbing,  Shops,  Curios,  and  on  many  other 
subjects  of  interest.  The  economically  disposed  will  find  many  money-saving 
hints  scattered  through  the  book,  and  whosoever  essays  to  do  Japan  without  it  will 
spend  considerably  more  time,  energy  and  money  than  are  necessary  to  the  pur- 
pose. 

The  Book  Will  Save  Its  Cost  the  First  Day  it  is  Used. 

Terry’s  Guide  to  Mexico.  A companion  book  to  the  foregoing.  New  and 
strictly  down-to-date.  845  pages,  29  maps  and  plans.  Price  $3.50,  American 
money. 

Terry’s  Handbook  of  Mexico.  An  outline  sketch  of  the  country,  its  people 
and  their  history  from  the  earliest  times  to  the  present.  With  colored  map. 
Price  $1.00. 

Terry’s  Short  Cut  to  Spanish.  A New,  Easy  and  Quick  Method  for  Learn- 
ing the  Spanish  Language  as  Spoken  in  Spanish-America  and  in  Spain;  combined 
with  a Pronouncing  Phrase-Book  for  English-Speaking  Travelers  in  Spanish- 
speaking  Countries.  543  pages.  Price,  cloth  binding,  $2.50.  Leather,  $3.50. 

For  a detailed  description  of  this  book  see  the  opposite  page. 

Terry’s  Spanish-English  Pocket  Interpreter,  with  a phonetic  pronuncia- 
tion of  each  word.  A handy  interpreter  for  English-speaking  travelers  in  Spanish- 
speaking  countries,  and  Spanish-speaking  travelers  in  English-speaking  countries. 
140  pages.  Price  50  cents. 

FOR  SALE  EVERYWHERE 

Sent  postpaid,  on  receipt  of  price,  by 

Houghton  Mifflin  Co  , 4 Park  St.,  Boston,  or  New  York  City. 

Brentano’s,  or  Thos.  Cook  & Sons,  New  York  City. 

Constable  & Co.,  Ltd.,  London. 

Sonora  News  Co.,  Laredo,  Texas;  Nogales,  Arizona;  Mexico  City,  Tampico,  or 
Monterey,  Mexico.  Kyo-Bun-Kwan,  Ginza,  Shichome,  Tokyo,  Japan. 


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TERRY’S 


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SHORT  CUT  TO  SPANISH 


Is  Simple,  Practical,  Useful.  Designed  for  self-study. 


Terry’s  Short  Cut  to  Spanish  specializes  on  the  Spanish  of  Mexico, 

Cuba,  Venezuela,  Chile,  Peru,  the  Argentine  and  adjacent  countries,  and  it  is 
absolutely  essential  to  an  intelligent  understanding  of  the  Spanish  spoken  there. 

The  Plan  of  the  Book  differs  radically  from  other  methods.  Simplicity 
and  practicality  have  been  the  aim;  a quick  mastery  of  language  rather  than  a 
slow  and  toilsome  acquisition  of  literature.  By  a remarkably  simple  and  easy 
method  of  self-study,  the  busy  man  can,  without  the  aid  of  any  teacher, 
learn  to  read,  write,  understand  and  speak  well  and  fluently  the  idiomatic  and 
commercial  Spanish  of  Spanish-America  and  Spain  in  about  one-fourth  the 
time  usually  required  for  such  an  accomplishment. 

The  Unique  and  Veritable  Short  Cuts  to  a Spanish  Vocabulary  show  one 
how  to  acquire  and  retain  thousands  of  Spanish  words  with  little  or  no  mental 
effort.  Hundreds  can  be  learned  in  a day,  and  by  rules  so  simple  that  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  forget  them.  During  twelve  years  of  travel  and  residence  in  Spanish- 
speaking countries  the  author  made  a special  study  of  the  difficulties  which  an 
English-speaking  person  encounters  in  learning  Spanish,  and  these  perplexities  have 
been  clarified  and  rendered  easy. 

Spanish  Correspondence.  The  section  devoted  to  this  important  matter  will 
prove  invaluable  to  the  business  man  who  may  wish  to  write  to  his  Mexican 
or  other  Spanish-American  customers  in  their  own  language.  The  book  con- 
tains more  carefully  selected  commercial  terms  than  any  other  of  its 
class,  each  term  an  aid  in  the  construction  of  commercial  or  social  correspond- 
ence. With  them  at  hand  almost  any  one  can  read  a Spanish  letter,  or  write, 
at  once,  a very  creditable  one. 

The  Phrase  Section.  Here  the  words  have  been  arranged  with  scrupulous 
attention  to  the  needs  of  the  social  or  commercial  traveler  or  resident  in  Spanish- 
America  and  Spain.  Along  with  the  phrases  are  hundreds  of  appropriate  key 
words,  with  simple  instructions  how  to  incorporate  them  in  other  statements, 
questions  and  answers  for  use  in  conversation  or  correspondence.  Scores  of  sub- 
jects, such  as  Buying  and  Selling,  Traveling,  Hotels,  Railways,  Food, 
Money,  etc.,  etc.,  are  treated  in  such  detail  that  a person  with  no  knowledge 
whatsoever  of  Spanish  can  travel,  stop  at  hotels,  meet  people  in  a business  or 
social  way,  sell  or  buy  goods,  etc.,  and  get  along  almost  as  well  as  if  he  were  a 
master  of  the  language.  Scattered  through  this  section  is  a mass  of  varied  com- 
mercial data  in  Spanish  and  English  without  which  trade  in  Spanish-America 
cannot  be  conducted. 

The  different  sections  of  the  book  form  a condensed,  down-to-date 
grammar,  dictionary,  phrase  and  reference  book  of  peculiar  utility  and 
worth.  As  a ready  interpreter  fulfilling  an  immediate  need,  the  phrase  section  is 
more  than  temporary  in  its  benefits.  For  when  the  words  and  phrases  have  been 
employed  a number  of  times  they  become  familiar  to  the  eye,  the  ear  and  the 
tongue,  and,  like  an  oft-whistled  tune,  they  remain  impressed  upon  the  mind. 
The  tongue  gains  facility  in  the  act  of  utterance,  and  the  Spanish  words  and 
phrases  thus  are  learned  without  mental  effort. 

Price:  Cloth,  $2.50;  Leather,  $3.50.  Printed  on  fine  paper,  in  clear, 

readable  type.  Pocket  size.  550  pages.  Publishers,  Houghton  Mifflin  Co., 
Boston  and  New  York.  Sonora  News  Co.,  Mexico. 

For  sale  at  all  bookstores. 


PRESS  OPINIONS  OF 


Terry’s  Guide  to  Japan 

The  following  critical  opinions  are  excerpts  taken  from  hundreds 
of  newspaper  and  magazine  reviews  throughout  the  world:  — 


“Terry’s  ‘Japanese  Empire’  is  the  Imperator  of  modern  guidebooks.  It  is  like  a 
trip  abroad,  and  it  beats  ten  trippers’  tales  that  read  like  guidebooks.” — Life. 

“Recognized  by  experts  as  the  best  thing  of  its  kind  in  print,  far  surpassing 
Murray  in  accuracy  and  completeness.  . . . Invaluable  to  the  tourist.  . . . 
The  book  may  bp  warmly  commended.” — San  Francisco  Chronicle. 

“This  book  is  unsurpassed.” — New  York  Japan  Review. 

“We  could  scarcely  imagine  anything  more  comprehensive  and  compact.  . . . 
As  a guidebook  it  seems  as  complete  as  anything  possible.” — Los  Angeles  Times. 

“A  more  comprehensive  provision  for  the  travelers’  needs  does  not  exist.” — 
Boston  Herald. 

“The  most  complete  guidebook  ever  issued  on  the  Japanese  Empire.” — 
Philadelphia  Star. 

“Amazingly  full  and  complete.  ...  It  is  hard  to  imagine  any  information 
which  anybody  intending  to  tour  Japan  would  need  that  is  not  in  this  volume.” — 
Duluth  (if inn.)  Herald. 

“Terry’s  ‘Japanese  Empire’  has  been  enthusiastically  received  both  by  travelers 
and  scholars.” — Evening  Star,  Newark,  N.  J. 

“Mr.  Terry’s  unusually  satisfactory  guidebook  will  be  an  encouragement  to 
many  to  make  the  trip  to  the  Mikado’s  Empire.” — Pioneer  Press,  St.  Paul , Minn. 

“This  book  is  so  scientific  that  it  makes  the  average  guidebook  retreat  into  the 
shade.  It  can  stand  comparison  anywhere.” — Oregonian,  Portland,  Oregon. 

“A  late  issue  of  those  excellent  Terry  guides.  ...  A compact  and  compre- 
hensive traveler’s  guide  to  the  Japanese  Empire.” — Review  of  Reviews. 

“A  complete  and  valuable  guidebook  for  travelers.  . . . Everything  that  the 
traveler  could  possibly  need  in  the  way  of  accurate  information.” — Book  News 
Monthly. 

“Contains  a surprising  amount  of  varied  information  that  must  prove  excep- 
tionally helpful  to  the  Japanese  traveler.  And  its  honesty  is  as  commendable 
as  its  wealth  of  facts.” — Chicago  Herald. 

“Terry’s  ‘Japanese  Empire’  is  ‘eleven-tenths  of  the  whole  thing,’  as  the  Chinese 
say.  It  out-distances  all  competitors.  Only  a long  resident,  with  a special  com- 
petency for  writing  such  a book,  possessed  of  industry,  discrimination,  penetra- 
tion, sympathy  and  justice,  could  have  produced  such  a volume.” — Dr.  William 
Elliot  Griffis,  in  The  Atlantic  Monthly. 

“Nothing  has  been  left  unsaid  that  could  conduce  to  the  comfort  and  safety  of 
travelers  or  to  make  Japanese  travel  as  easy  as  travel  in  any  other  part  of  the 
world.  . . . This  guidebook  contains  everything  that  the  traveler  can  need, 
while  its  value  to  the  reference  shelf  is  too  obvious  to  need  indication.  . . . Mr. 
Terry  is  to  be  congratulated  on  the  production  of  a work  that  is  unique  both  in 
content  and  preparation,  a model  of  lucidity  and  conciseness.” — San  Francisco 
Argonaut. 

“The  value  of  the  book  does  not  wholly  lie  in  its  usefulness  as  a traveler’s  com- 

J anion.  It  is  equally  valuable  for  the  bookshelf,  for  it  gives  such  details  of  things 
apanese  as  to  constitute  it  a book  of  reference.” — Boston  Transcript. 

“This  is  the  book  for  the  traveler  in  Japan.  It  has  no  rival.” — Christian 
Intelligencer. 

“A  handsome  and  elaborate  guidebook  containing  everything  an  ordinary 
traveler  wants  to  know.” — New  York  World. 


CRITICAL  OPINIONS  OF  TERRY’S  MEXICO 


“A  very  extraordinary  guidebook.  A very  unusual  achievement.” — New  Yoik 
Bookman. 

‘‘It  is  not  only  a work  of  the  greatest  value  for  a traveler,  but  one  that  will  find 
an  important  place  in  any  reference  library.” — Cincinnati  Times-Star. 

“What  Baedeker  did  for  the  countries  of  Europe,  Mr.  T.  Philip  Terry  did  for 
Mexico  in  preparing  an  accurate  and  complete  guidebook  to  that  country.  lie 
has  now  surpassed  this  difficult  task  by  issuing  Terry’s  ‘Japanese  Empire’  . . 
a book  that  should  be  in  the  gripsack  of  every  tourist.” — Chicago  Tribune. 

“Aided  by  the  use  of  thin  but  good  paper,  the  author  and  publishers  have 
packed  a really  astonishing  amount  of  information  into  a volume  that  just  com- 
fortably fits  the  hand.  The  result  is  a guidebook  dealing  substantially  with  a 
great  diversity  of  things.  The  three  It’s  of  the  ordinary  guidebook— routes, 
rates  and  recreations — are  supplemented  by  admirable  little  essays  on  art,  archi- 
tecture, language,  religion,  etc.  . . . The  writer  knows  his  business,  as  he  knows 
his  Japan,  and  his  laborious  and  conscientious  work  should  be  eagerly  welcomed 
by  all  who  contemplate  travel  through  or  residence  in  this  most  interesting  part 
of  the  world.  Terry’s  ‘Mexico’  is  the  standard  guide  to  that  country,  and  is  the  only 
case  where  a Baedeker  has  been  successfully  emulated.” — Scientific  American. 

“Its  information  is  full  and  comprehensive  on  a great  variety  of  topics,  show- 
ing the  fruits  of  long  familiarity  and  of  industrious  personal  investigation.  It 
has  been  brought  well  up  to  date.  . . . There  is  a wealth  of  interesting  and  useful 
information  upon  all  kinds  of  subjects  in  the  283  pages  of  preliminary  matter  with 
which  the  book  begins,  and  it  is  evidently  based  on  knowledge  at  first  hand  ac- 
quired during  the  author’s  twelve  years’  residence  and  journeying  in  the  country. 
It  treats  methodically  of  almost  everything  concerning  which  the  curiosity  of 
intending  travelers  is  likely  to  be  aroused.  . . . The  book  is  a serious  and  useful 
work,  and  we  would  recommend  English  travelers,  about  to  visit  Japan,  to  take  it 
with  them.” — The  Times , London. 

“Sure  of  wide  use  and  appreciation.  It  is  remarkably  thorough  and  compact, 
liberally  supplied  with  excellent  maps,  and  full  of  information  not  only  as  to  the 
practical  side  of  travel,  but  also  to  the  various  matters  that  claim  the  traveler’s 
interest,  such  as  Japanese  art,  language,  literature,  customs,  sport  and  scenery.” 
— Illustrated  London  News. 

“Japan  and  its  people  form  the  fascinating  theme  of  many  books  of  travel, 
description  and  study,  but  there  are  very  few  really  reliable  and  authentic  guide- 
books of  the  country,  presenting  essential  facts  and  information.  This  new  book 
does;  very  fully  and  carefully.  Japan  is  changing  rapidly  in  many  ways;  infor- 
mation that  was  sufficient  and  accurate  a few  years  ago,  would  today  mislead  the 
traveler,  and  this  gives  value  to  Mr.  Terry’s  book,  which  is  the  recent  work  of  an 
experienced  traveler  and  keen  observer.  . . . It  is  all  a guidebook  should  be.  . . . 
The  maps  and  plans  specially  prepared  for  his  book  are  a valuable  feature,  and 
the  production  reflects  great  credit  on  the  publishers.” — Thos.  Cook  & Sons 
Travelers ’ Gazette. 

“Whatever  else  he  may  do,  the  traveler  in  Japan  or  intending  to  visit  it  must  hence- 
forth do  one  thing — get  Mr.  T.  Philip  Terry’s  guidebook.  There  is  practically  nothing 
relating  to  travel  in  Japan,  Korea  and  Formosa  that  this  admirable  and  really  remark- 
able work  does  not  tell  him.  Written  on  the  time-tried  lines  of  Baedeker,  its  thorough- 
ness, clearness  and  painstaking  regard  for  accuracy  place  it  entirely  on  a level  with 
even  the  best  of  that  world-renowned  series.  The  author,  having  spent  ten  years  in  the 
country,  is  specially  qualified  for  his  difficult  task.  The  result  is  a book  which,  if 
studied  in  advance  and  carried  with  one,  will  smooth  away  many  a difficulty,  and 
immensely  increase  the  interest  and  benefit  of  one’s  visit.  . . . Mr.  Terry’s  book  is 
pre-eminently  practical.  ...  A vast  amount  of  extremely  interesting  information 
most  of  which  anyone  might  read  with  profit,  but  which,  to  the  traveler  about  to  set 
out  for  Japan  is  really  invaluable.  . . Mr  Terry  is  to  be  warmly  congratulated  on 
bis  work.  Time  and  change  make  the  absolutely  perfect  guidebook  impossible,  but 
he  has  come  as  near  to  achieving  it  as  anyone  is  ever  likely  to  do.  Not  only  wall  his 
guidebook  fulfill  the  test  of  saving  its  cost  in  a day,  but  it  will  also  place  within  the 
traveler’s  reach  practically  everything  essential  to  the  intelligent  comprehension  of 
Japan  and  its  people  ” — Montreal  Daily  Star. 


MEXICO 


u World  wrongly  called  the  new ! this  clime  was  old 
When  first  the  Spaniard  came,  in  search  of  gold. 
Age  after  age  its  shadowy  wings  had  spread, 

And  man  was  born,  and  gathered  to  the  dead ; 

Cities  arose,  ruled,  dwindled  to  decay, 

Empires  were  formed,  then  darkly  swept  away: 
Race  followed  race,  like  cloud-shades  o’er  the  field, 
The  stranger  still  to  strangers  doomed  to  yield. 

The  last  grand  line  that  swajred  these  hills  and  wav< 
Like  Israel,  wandered  long  'mid  wilds  and  caves, 
Then,  settling  in  their  Canaan,  cities  reared, 

Fair  Science  wooed,  a milder  God  revered, 

Till  to  invading  Europe  bowed  their  pride, 

And  pomp,  art,  power,  with  Montezuma  died.” 


TERRY’S 

GUIDE  TO 

MEXICO 

THE  NEW  STANDARD  GUIDEBOOK 

TO  THE 

MEXICAN  REPUBLIC 

WITH  CHAPTERS  ON 

CUBA,  THE  BAHAMA  ISLANDS 

AND  THE 

OCEAN  ROUTES  TO  MEXICO 
With  2 Maps  and  27  Plans 

BY 

T.  PHILIP  TERRY,  F.R.G.S. 

Author  of  terry’s  guide  to  the  Japanese  empire;  terry’s 

SHORT  CUT  TO  SPANISH*,  TERRY’S  SPANISH-ENGLISH 

pocket  interpreter;  etc. 

Revised  Edition,  Remodelled  and  Augmented 


BOSTON  AND  NEW  YORK 

HOUGHTON  MIFFLIN  COMPANY 

MEXICO*.  SONORA  NEWS  COMPANY 
MEXICO  CITY  AND  TAMPICO 
LONDON:  GAY  AND  HANCOCK,  LTD. 

1923 

All  rights  reserved 


COPYRIGHT,  1909  AND  1922,  BY  T.  PHILIP  TERRY 
ALL  RIGHTS  RESERVED 
ES  PROPIEDAD  EN  MEXICO 
QUEDA  HECHO  EL  DEPOSITO  QUE  MARCA  LA  LEY 


XTfje  &ibersiit>c 

CAMBRIDGE  i MASSACHUSETTS 
PRINTED  IN  THE  U.S.A. 


FOREWORD 


Although  Mexico  lies  contiguous  to  the  United  States  it 
is  much  less  accurately  known  to  Americans  than  its  im- 
portance warrants.  It  is  a winsome,  sunlit  land;  artistic, 
intellectual,  extraordinarily  picturesque,  and  with  a char- 
acter and  individuality  peculiarly  interesting  to  the 
thoughtful  traveller.  Those  who  visit  the  Republic  for 
the  first  time  usually  are  charmed  by  its  physical  beauty, 
its  quaint  cities  and  towns,  its  almost  perfect  climate,  and 
the  beguiling  permanency  of  its  azure  skies.  In  point  of 
picturesqueness  and  historical  interest  Mexico  has  few 
equals.  It  is  a felicitous  blend  of  the  cold  North  and  the 
lower  tropics;  of  Persia,  India,  Arabia,  Spain  and  the  Holy 
Land;  a country  where  travel  is  cheap,  comfortable  and 
safe,  where  the  people  are  amiable,  friendly  and  helpful, 
and  where  life  presents  an  aspect  of  tranquillity  distinctly 
appealing  to  the  hurried  northerner. 

Few  countries  have  had  a more  interesting  past.  An 
enlightened  civilization  dwelt  in  palatial  cities  in  Mexico 
in  the  opening  years  of  the  Christian  era,  and  the  palaces, 
temples  and  pyramids  of  those  shadowy  races  — per- 
chance the  first  Americans  — still  exist,  wonderfully  pre- 
served, to  puzzle  the  historian  and  delight  the  traveller. 
M hen  the  bold  Spanish  conquistadores  disrupted  the 
bizarre  Indian  Confederacy  which  ruled  (in  1519)  in  the 
Valley  of  Mexico,  they  slew  poets  and  philosophers  whose 
wise  sayings  are  still  current  in  the  vernacular,  and  whose 
odes  constitute  the  epic  poems  of  the  people  of  to-day.  A 
church  for  the  worship  of  the  Christian  faith  was  com- 
pleted in  Mexico  City  in  1525  — just  at  the  time  when 
the  monk  Miles  Coverdale  was  translating  “The  Great 
Bible”  into  the  English  language.  Painting  was  taught 
there  in  1521,  or  99  years  before  the  Pilgrims  landed  on 
Plymouth  Rock;  and  books,  music,  and  wood-engravings 
were  printed  on  a press  brought  from  Spain  in  1536,  many 
years  before  William  Shakespere  was  born,  and  more  than 
a century  before  the  first  printing-press  was  established  at 
Cambridge.  Marble  palaces  housed  Mexican  emperors 
while  red  Indians  still  shifted  their  wigwams  across  the 


IV 


FOREWORD 


face  of  North  America,  and  the  present  City  of  Mexico 
was  rising  from  the  ruins  of  Montezuma’s  capital  ninety- 
three  }rears  before  the  Dutch  bought  Manhattan  Island 
from  the  Five  Nations. 

A meritorious  Guidebook,  by  showing  the  careful 
traveller  how  to  obtain  the  best  returns  for  his  money  and 
time,  should  save  its  cost  the  first  day  it  is  used,  and  we 
hope,  and  believe,  such  may  be  the  case  with  this  one. 
The  aim  has  been  to  present  in  one  handy  and  compact 
volume,  an  unusual  amount  of  practical,  helpful  and  un- 
biased information  about  Mexico  and  its  people,  yet  by 
avoiding  bleakness  and  stodginess  to  make  that  informa- 
tion as  interesting  as  possible  compatible  with,  brevity 
and  exactness.  Nearly  twelve  years  of  residence  in  the 
country,  and  repeated  journeys  from  one  end  of  it  to  the 
other,  have  qualified  us  to  describe  the  things  and  places 
really  worth  seeing,  and  to  advise  the  traveller  how  to  see 
them  with  a minimum  outlay  of  energy  and  money.  In 
securing  our  information  about  the  country  we  have  been 
unwilling  to  accept  the  reports  of  others;  preferring  in 
every  case  to  go  personally  to  the  source,  secure  data  at 
first  hand,  and  thus  be  able  to  inspire  the  traveller  with 
confidence  in  its  accuracy.  The  economically  inclined  will 
find  many  money-saving  hints  scattered  through  the 
book,  and  whosoever  essays  to  do  Mexico  without  it  will 
spend  considerably  more  time,  effort  and  money  than  are 
necessarjr  to  the  purpose.  In  no  single  instance  have  the 
material  interests  of  the  traveller  been  sacrificed  to  the 
selfish  benefit  of  others. 

In  the  250  pages  of  introductory  matter  under  the 
heading,  Preliminary  Information,  an  effort  has  been 
made  to  interpret  many  things  Mexican  of  interest  to  the 
traveller,  and  to  aid  him  to  a quick  and  satisfactory  under- 
standing of  them.  This  special  knowledge  will  be  found 
great ly  to  enhance  the  pleasure  of  a visit  to  Mexico.  The 
monographs  on  Travelling  Expenses,  Money,  Hotels, 
Tips,  Plan  of  Tour,  Seasons,  Health,  Hints  to  Travellers, 
Climate,  Shops  and  Curios,  Photography,  Physiography, 
Language,  Literature,  Architecture,  Ruined  Cities,  Native 
Races,  Churches,  Mines,  Oil  Fields,  the  Government 
and  its  Functions;  the  People  and  their  Homes,  Arts, 
Customs,  Religion  and  History;  and  the  scores  of  minor 
subjects,  will  be  found  of  immediate  and  permanent 


FOREWORD 


v 


value.  The  dispassionate  estimates  of  Mexico  and  the 
Mexicans  are  believed  to  be  just.  The  monograph  on 
Mexican  Art  and  Painters  is  the  most  complete  that  has 
been  written  on  this  interesting  subject,  and  it  will  mate- 
rially aid  the  traveller  to  an  intelligent  appreciation  of  the 
fine  pictures  still  to  be  found  in  Mexico,  and  of  the  art 
which  flourished  many  decades  before  the  first  white  set- 
tlers sailed  for  the  shores  of  North  America. 

Those  unfamiliar  with  the  Spanish  language  will  find 
the  chapter  at  page  xvii  of  genuine  value.  Likewise  the 
vernacular  equivalents  of  many  English  words  in  the  text. 

The  contents  of  the  Guidebook  are  divided  into  Ten 
Sections:  I.  North-Eastern  Mexico;  II.  North-Central 
Mexico;  III.  North-Western  Mexico;  IV.  Central  Mex- 
ico; V.  Central-Western  Mexico;  VI.  City  and  Valley  of 
Mexico;  VII.  South-Western  Mexico;  VIII.  South- 
Eastern  Mexico;  IX.  Southern  Mexico;  X.  The  Penin- 
sula of  Yucatan.  To  each  section  is  prefixed  a list  of  sub- 
jects or  the  routes  it  contains,  so  that  each  forms  approxi- 
mately a complete  volume,  apart  from  the  general  table 
of  contents  or  the  general  index. 

The  Chapter  on  The  Bahamas  and  Cuba  is  meant  to  be 
of  service  to  the  many  travellers  who  go  to  Mexico  by  sea 
and  who  stop  at  those  interesting  places. 

The  Maps  and  Plans  were  drawn  specially  for  the 
book,  and  they  are  the  newest  and  most  complete  extant. 
Most  of  the  city  plans  appear  now  for  the  first  time  in 
any  guidebook,  and  they  are  uniquely  valuable  to  the 
traveller. 

Mexico  is  making  such  rapid  progress  that  it  is  difficult 
to  ensure  abiding  accuracy  in  such  details  as  hotels,  prices, 
etc.,  since  they  are  apt  to  change  between  editions.  Hotels 
often  change  in  name,  management,  and  in  the  treatment 
of  guests.  Wars  send  prices  up,  and  competition  reduces 
them.  As  it  is  the  intention  to  keep  the  present  book 
abreast  of  events,  the  author  will  genuinely  appreciate 
criticisms,  corrections  or  suggestions  with  which  observ- 
ant persons  may  favor  him;  especially  those  that  will  en- 
able travellers  to  get  the  best  return  for  their  money  and 
time.  Such  communications  should  be  addressed  to  us  at 
Hingham,  Massachusetts,  U.  S.  A.  Hotelmen  and  others 
are  warned  against  persons  representing  themselves  as 
agents  for  Terry's  Guidebooks  and  other  publications. 


CONTENTS 


Introduction. 

Page 

I.  Travelling  Expenses.  Money.  Passports.  Cus- 
tom-House. Language xi 

II.  Plan  of  Tour.  Seasons.  Climate.  Health. 

What  to  Wear xxiid 

III.  Railways.  Steamships.  Tramways.  Diligences. 

Automobiles.  Horses.  Burros.  Highways  xxxi 

The  Bahama  Islands;  Nassau xxxvia 

The  Island  of  Cuba:  Havana xxxvic 

IV.  Post-Office.  Telegraph-Office.  Telephones. 

Weights  and  Measures.  Time xli 

V.  Hotels.  Boarding-Houses.  Cafes.  Baths.  Car- 

gadores xlviii 

VI.  Towns.  Houses.  Rents.  Landlords.  Stamp 

Tax.  Servants.  Gratuities liii 

VII.  Population.  Intercourse  with  the  People. 

Public  Security.  Beggars.  Thieves  ...  lx 

VIII.  Shops.  Guides.  Drawn-Linen.  Pottery.  Cigars 

and  Tobacco  ....  lxix 

IX.  Hunting  and  Fishing.  Photography  . . . lxxvii 

X.  Cacti.  Mescal.  Tequila.  Aguardiente.  Pulque  lxxxi 

XI.  Mines.  Opals.  Jade.  Turquois.  Malachite.  Onyx  lxxxviii 

XII.  Theatres.  Bull-Fights.  Cock-Fights.  Juego  de 
Pelota.  Museums  and  Picture  Galleries. 
Churches.  Holidays xcvi 

XIII.  Physiography: — Area.  Boundaries.  The  Mexi- 

can States.  Government.  Army  and  Navy. 
Mountains.  Lakes,  Rivers,  Gulf  of  Mexico  cxxi 

XIV.  Historical  Sketch  of  Art  in  Mexico  before  and 

after  the  Conquest cxxviii 

XV.  History  and  Races clxii 

XVI.  Chronological  Table  of  the  Chief  Events  in 

Mexican  History ccxxxv 

XVII.  Bibliography ccxlvii 

I.  North-Eastern  Mexico 1 

Route 

1.  From  Laredo  (Texas),  via  Monterey  and  Sal- 
tillo, to  San  Luis  Potosf  (Queretaro  and  Mexico 

City)  1 

2.  Monterey 5 

3.  From  Monterey  to  Tampico 11 

From  Monterey  to  Matamoros,  Brownsville  . 12 

4.  Saltillo 12 

5.  San  Luis  Potosf 17 


CONTENTS 


vii 


Page 


II.  North-Central  Mexico 22 

Route 

6.  From  Ciudad  Juarez  (El  Paso),  via  Chihuahua, 

Torreon  and  Zacatecas,  to  Aguascalientes  (Leon, 
Silao,  Irapuato,  Celaya,  Queretaro  and  Mexico 
City) 23 

7.  Chihuahua 25 

8.  Torreon 35 

From  Torreon  to  Monterey,  thence  to  Tampico  36 

9.  Zacatecas 38 

10.  Aguascalientes 45 

11.  From  Aguascalientes  to  Tampico 48 

Tampico 50 

12.  From  Ciudad  Juarez  to  Nuevas  Casas  Grandes  . 51 

13.  From  Presidio  del  Norte,  via  Chihuahua,  to  To- 

polobampo 56 

14.  From  Chihuahua  to  Minaca 63 

15.  From  Jimenez,  via  Parral,  to  Rosario  ....  63 

16.  Parral  . » 64 


III.  North-Western  Mexico 69 

17.  From  Douglas  (Arizona)  to  Nacozari  (Mexico)  . 69 

18.  From  Naco  to  Cananea,  thence  to  Nogales  . . 69 

19.  From  Nogales,  via  Hermosillo,  to  Guaymas  . . 74 

20.  Hermosillo 77 

21.  Guaymas 78 

22.  Lower  California  ...  84 

23.  From  Guaymas,  via  Navojoa,  Culiacan,  Mazat- 

lan  and  Tepic,  to  Guadalajara 89 

24.  State  of  Sinaloa 90 

25.  State  of  Nayarit  (Territorio  de  Tepic)  ....  91 


IV.  Central  Mexico 98 

26.  From  Piedras  Negras  (Eagle  Pass,  Texas),  via 

Torreon,  to  Durango  .........  98 

27.  Durango  City 100 

28.  From  (Laredo,  Monterey,  Saltillo)  Saji  Luis 

Potosi,  via  Gonzalez  Junction  and  Queretaro,  to 
Mexico  City 104 

29.  From  Gonzalez  Junction,  via  Celaya  and  Salva- 

tierra,  to  Acambaro  (thence  to  Morelia,  Patz- 
cuaro  and  Uruapan) 108 

30.  Queretaro 109 

31.  From  (Ciudad  Juarez,  Chihuahua,  Torreon,  Za- 

catecas) Aguascalientes,  via  Leon,  Silao,  Irapua- 
to, Celaya  and  Queretaro,  to  Mexico  City  . .122 

32.  From  Silao  to  Guanajuato 137 


viii  CONTENTS 

Page 

V.  Central-Western  Mexico 147 

Route 

33.  From  Irapuato,  via  Lake  Chapala,  to  Guadala- 
jara (thence  to  Colima  and  Manzanillo)  . . .148 

34.  The  Falls  of  Juanacatlan 159 

35.  Guadalajara  161 

36.  From  Guadalajara,  via  Zapotlan,  Tuxpan  and 

Colima,  to  Manzanillo 183 

37.  From  Mexico  City,  via  Toluca,  Maravatio,  Acam- 

baro,  Morelia  and  Patzcuaro,  to  Uruapan  . . 191 

38.  Toluca 194 

39.  Morelia 202 

40.  Patzcuaro 209 

41.  Uruapan 227 

VI.  City  and  Valley  of  Mexico 231 

42.  Mexico  City  ....  233 

Environs  of  Mexico  City. 

Guadalupe-Hidalgo 392 

Tlalpan 405 

The  Country  Club  and  Churubusco  . . . 407 

Coyoacan 408 

The  Pedregal 411 

San  Angel .412 

La  Piedad 416 

Mixcoac 416 

Tacubaya  417 

Popotla 418 

Tacuba 418 

Azcapotzalco 419 

43.  From  Mexico  City  to  Pachuca 421 

Pachuca,  422.  Real  del  Monte,  423.  State  of  Hidalgo,  423. 

43a.  From  Mexico  City  to  Puebla,  via  Ferrocarril 
Interoceanico 424 

44.  From  Mexico  City,  via  San  Juan  Teotihuacan 

and  Tlaxcala,  to  Puebla 424 

The  Pyramids  of  San  Juan  Teotihuacan,  425.  Tlaxcala,  427. 
State  of  Tlaxcala,  428.  Historical  Sketch  of  the  Tlaxcalan 
Nation,  429. 

VII.  South-Western  Mexico 432 

45.  From  Mexico  City  to  Cuernavaca  (thence  to 

Puente  de  Ixtla  and  Balsas) 432 

46.  Cuernavaca 436 

47.  From  (Mexico  City)  Cuernavaca  to  Puente  de 

Ixtla,  Iguala  and  Balsas 456 

48.  From  Iguala  to  Taxco 457 

49.  From  Mexico  City  to  Amecameca,  Cuauhtla  and 

Puente  de  Ixtla 461 


CONTENTS 


IX 


VIII.  South-Eastern  Mexico 

Route 

50.  Vera  Cruz  

51.  From  Vera  Cruz  to  Alvarado  (by  railway), 

thence  (by  steamboat)  to  Tlacotalpam,  San 
Cristobal,  Cosamaloapam,  Chacaltianquis  and 
Tuxtepec  ....  

52.  From  Vera  Cruz,  via  Cordoba,  Orizaba  and  San 

Juan  Teotihuacan,  to  Mexico  City  . . . . 

53.  Cordoba  and  Environs 

54.  Orizaba  and  Environs 

55.  From  Mexico  City  to  Texcoco,  San  Lorenzo, 

Oriental,  Jalapa  and  Vera  Cruz 

56.  Jalapa 

57.  Puebla 

58.  Excursions  from  Puebla 

59.  From  Puebla,  via  Tehuacan,  to  Oaxaca  City 

(thence  to  the  Big  Tree  of  Tule  and  the  Ruins 
of  Mitla) 

60.  Oaxaca  City 

61.  Excursion  to  the  Ruins  of  Mitla 

IX.  Southern  Mexico 

62.  From  Cordoba  to  Santa  Lucrecia  (thence  to 

points  on  the  Tehuantepec  National,  and  the 
Pan-American  Railways) 

63.  From  Coatzacoalcos  (Puerto  Mexico),  via  Santa 

Lucrecia  (Cordoba),  Rincon  Antonio  and 
Tehuantepec,  to  Salina  Cruz 

64-  From  San  Geronimo  to  the  Guatemalan  Fron- 
tier   

65.  State  of  Tabasco 

66.  State  of  Chiapas 

67.  State  of  Campeche 

X.  The  Peninsula  of  Yucatan 

68.  From  Progreso  to  Merida,  via  San  Ignacio, 

Yaxche,  Chuburna  and  Itzimna 

69.  Merida 

70.  From  Merida,  via  Muna,  to  Uxmal  .... 

71.  From  Merida,  via  Citas,  to  Chichen-Itza  . . 

72.  The  Gulf  State  of  Yucatan 


Page 

468 

469 


481 

484 

486 

489 

499 

503 

508 

518 


523 

528 

534 

544 


544 


550 

558 

560 

563 

569 

572 

573 

574 

580 

581 

582 


X 


MAPS  AND  PLANS 


Maps  and  Plans. 

Mays. 

1.  General  Map  of  the  Mexican  Republic:  facing  page  cxxi. 

2.  Railway  Map  of  the  Republic:  following  page  xxxi. 

Plans  of  Towns , Buildings , etc . 

1.  Monterey:  facing  page  5 — 2.  Saltillo:  facing  page  12.  — 3.  San  Luis 
Potosi:  facing  page  17.  — 4.  Chihuahua:  facing  page  25.  — 5.  Zacatecas: 
facing  page  38.  — 6.  Tampico:  facing  page  50.  — 7.  Durango:  facing  page 
100.  — 8 Queretaro:  facing  page  109. — -9.  Lake  Chapala:  facing  page 
152.  — 10  Guadalajara:  facing  page  161.  — 11.  Toluca:  facing  page  194. 
— 12.  Morelia:  facing  page  202.  — 13.  Uruapan:  facing  page  227.  — 14. 
City  of  Mexico:  facing  page  232.  — 15.  National  Palace  (Mexico  City;: 
facing  page  267.  — 16.  Mexico  City  Cathedral:  facing  page  272.  — 17.  San 
Carlos  Picture  Gallery  (Mexico  City):  facing  page  310.  — 18.  Chapultepec 
Park:  facing  page  380.  — 19.  Castle  of  Chapultepec:  facing  page  386  — 20. 
Valley  of  Mexico:  facing  page  247.  — 21.  Chapel  of  the  Well  of  Guadalupe: 
facing  page  403.  — 22.  Cuernavaca:  facing  page  436.  — 23.  Vera  Cruz: 
facing  page  469.  — 24.  Puebla:  facing  page  508.  — 25.  Oaxaca:  facing  page 
528.  — 26.  Merida:  facing  page  574. 


Abbreviations. 


Alt.  = Altitude. 

Am.  PI.  = American  Plan. 

Ave.  = Avenida  (avenue). 

Ch.  = Church. 

C.  = Calle  (street);  centavo  (cent). 
Comp.  = Compare. 

Cor.  = Corner. 

E.  = East,  eastern;  every. 

Eng.  = English. 

F.  C.  = Ferrocarril  (railway). 

Fr.  = French. 

Ft.  = Feet. 

Ger.  = German. 

Hr.  = Hour. 

Inhab.  = Inhabitants. 

J.  = Jardin  (garden). 

K. ,  Kilom.,  Kiloms.  = Kilometros 
(kilometres). 

1.  = Left. 

M.  = Mile. 

Mex.  = Mexico,  Mexican. 

Mexs.  = Mexicans. 


Min.  = Minute. 

N.  = North,  northern. 

P.  = Plaza  (park  or  square), 
p.  = Page, 
pers.  = Persons, 
pop.  = Population. 

Pk.  = Package. 

PI.  = Plan  (refers  to  maps  or  plans), 
r.  = Right. 

Repub.  = Republic  of  Mexico. 
Ret.  = Return. 

Rly.  = Railway,  railroad. 

Rte.  = Route. 

S.  = South,  southern,  etc. 

Sp.  = Spanish. 

Sq.  = Square  feet. 

Sqr.  = Square,  or  city  block. 

Sta.  = Station. 

Tel.  = Telegraph. 

Tr.  = Trunk. 

W.  = West,  western,  etc. 

Yr.  = Year. 


The  letter  d with  a date,  after  the  name  of  a person,  indicates  the  year 
of  his  death;  b the  date  of  his  birth.  The  number  of  miles  or  Idlometros 
placed  before  the  stations  on  railway  routes  indicates  their  distance  from 
the  starting-point  of  the  route.  The  number  of  feet  given  after  the  name 
of  a place  shows  its  height  above  the  sea-level.  The  bracketed  Spanish 
word  after  an  English  word  shows  the  translation  of  the  latter. 

The  Prices  quoted  throughout  the  Handbook  are. in  Mexican  money 
unless  otherwise  designated. 


Preliminary  Information 

I.  Travelling  Expenses.  Money.  Passports.  Custom-House. 
Language. 

Travelling  Expenses  ( gastos  de  viaje ).  Ordinarily  travelling 
in  Mexico  is  cheaper  than  in  the  U.  S.  A.  or  Europe.  While  the 
war  inflated  prices  conditions  are  gradually  returning  to  nor- 
mal. The  traveller’s  daily  expenditures  naturally  will  vary 
according  to  his  requirements.  In  the  chief  cities  prices  usually 
are  higher  than  in  small  towns,  but  in  each  the  economical 
traveller  can  keep  down  expenses  by  doing  his  sight-seeing  on 
foot,  using  tramcars  instead  of  taxis,  and  by  seeking  modest 
hotels.  A courier  is  unnecessary  if  the  traveller  carries  a copy 
of  this  guidebook,  and  thus  a costly  impediment  can  be  elimi- 
nated. Exclusive  of  railway  fares  a careful  traveller  ought  to 
be  able  to  get  about  comfortabty  in  Mexico  on  (a  minimum  of) 
$5  (U.  S.  money)  a day.  More  should  be  allowed  if  one  wishes 
to  stop  at  first-class  hotels  and  dine  at  good  restaurants. 

The  constant  aim  of  the  writer  has  been  to  point  out  ways  of 
economizing  time  and  money,  and  these  hints  will  be  found 
scattered  throughout  the  guidebook. 

Prices  throughout  the  guidebook  are  in  Mexican  money, 
unless  otherwise  indicated. 

Money  (diner  o,  moneda).  Mexico  uses  the  decimal  system 
(sistema  decimal)  and  the  gold  standard  (el  patron  oro).  The 
coins  in  circulation  are: 

1 cent  (un  centavo ),  bronze  (hr once).  2 cents  (dos  centavos ), 
bronze. 

5 cents  (cinco  centavos ),  nickel  (niquel),  and  also  bronze. 

10  cents  (diez  centavos ),  silver  (plata),  and  also  bronze.  Like- 
wise a 20  c.  piece. 

50  cents  (cincuenta  centavos ),  silver  (plata)  (called  also  toston 
— Portuguese  testoon , or  4 silver  reales). 

100  cents  or  peso  (un  peso),  silver  (plata)  (often  called  peso 
fuerte , or  duro,  hard  money). 

200  cents  (dos  pesos) , silver  (plata).  Likewise  in  gold.  Also  a 
$2£  piece. 

$5  (cinco  pesos),  gold  (oro).  Called  Medio-Hidalgo  (from  the 
patriot  Miguel  Hidalgo ). 

$10  (diez  pesos),  gold  (oro).  Called  Un  Hidalgo. 

$20  (veinte  pesos),  gold  (oro).  Called  Una  Azteca  (an  Aztec). 
$50  (cincuenta  pesos),  gold  (oro).  Called  Un  Centenario 
(centenary). 

The  object  stamped  on  the  handsome  $20  gold  piece  is  the 
Aztec  Calendar  stone. 


xii 


MONEY  — DINERO— MONEDA 


The  gold  money  is  often  referred  to  as  Oro  National  (ab- 
breviated O.N.). 

In  writing,  the  $ mark  is  used;  in  speech  the  word  peso. 
American  dollars  are  (by  law)  called  dolares , to  differentiate 
them  from  the  Mex.  dollar,  or  peso. 

The  silver  20  cent  pieces  often  are  called  (by  Spaniards) 
pesetas  (Spanish  diminutive  of  peso). 

Bank  Bills  ( billetes  de  banco)  formerly  circulated  from  private 
and  national  banks,  and  no  doubt  soon  will  again  be  in  cir- 
culation. 

American  paper  and  gold  money  ( moneda  americana)  passes 
current  in  many  places  in  the  Republic,  usually  at  two  Mexi- 
can pesos  for  one  Am.  dollar. 

The  traveller  may  like  to  remember  that  in  certain  lights  a 
medio-  Hidalgo  can  scarcely  be  distinguished  from  a new  cent 
piece.  These  and  the  $2J  gold  piece  are  apt  to  be  given  out 
by  mistake. 

The  (coined)  word,  bilembiques , which  the  traveller  will  hear 
in  connection  with  money,  refers  to  any  currency,  bonds  or 
similar  tokens  issued  by  temporal  or  unstable  governments 
(usually  in  revolutionary  times)  and  which  are  regarded  by  the 
people  as  more  or  less  worthless.  By  extension  the  word  is 
applied  to  almost  anything  of  little  or  no  value. 

Smooth  or  mutilated  coins  should  be  refused.  Considerable 
counterfeit  money  ( dinero  contrahecho)  is  in  circulation,  and 
change  should  never  be  taken  without  examining  it.  Almost 
every  person  who  receives  a silver  or  a gold  piece  scrutinizes 
it  closely,  and  shopkeepers,  as  a rule,  ring  coins  on  a piece 
of  wood  or  stone  to  test  them.  This  precaution  is  so  general 
that  no  one  need  fear  practising  it  — however  it  may  seem 
to  reflect  on  the  person  proffering  the  coin.  The  alert  ear 
soon  becomes  accustomed  to  the  right  ring.  When  a coin 
gives  forth  a flat  sound  it  should  be  refused.  Spurious  coins 
are  usually  light,  crudely  made,  and  of  a soapy  texture. 

American  gold  or  paper  money  will,  as  a rule,  be  accepted 
anywhere  in  the  Republic  at  approximately  two  for  one,  but 
silver  money  is  often  discounted.  The  chief  reason  for  this  is 
the  ultimate  cost  of  handling  and  shipping  metallic  specie. 
The  credit  machine^  throughout  the  Republic  is  sometimes 
inadequate,  and  the  transfer  of  funds  from  one  part  of  the 
country  to  the  other  is  frequently  done  by  simply  shipping  the 
money  by  express.  It  is  claimed  that  the  collection  depart- 
ments of  many  banking  houses  in  Mexico  are  run  at  a loss 
because  of  the  heavy  transportation  costs  of  actual  specie. 
While  the  Mexican  silver  coins  pass  current  with  the  gold,  it 
often  happens  that  on  account  of  the  excess  of  silver  in  the 
circulating  medium,  and  its  comparatively  low  intrinsic  value 
with  relation  to  the  gold,  the  silver  coins  are  discounted  in  cer- 
tain parts  of  the  country. 


MONEY 


xiii 


The  following  table  will  be  useful  in  figuring  exchange: 


49 

50 

51 

0 

204.0816 

0 

200.0000 

0 

196.0784 

Vl6 

203.8217 

Vl6 

199.7503 

Vl6 

195.8384 

Vs 

203.5623 

Vs 

199.5012 

Vs 

195.5990 

%6 

203.3037 

3/l6 

199.2528 

%6 

195.3602 

V4 

203.0457 

% 

199.0050 

x/i 

195.1220 

5/l6 

202.7883 

%6 

198.7578 

%6 

194.8843 

% 

202.5316 

% 

198.5112 

% 

194.6472 

7Ae 

202.2756 

Vl6 

198.2652 

Vie 

194.4107 

y2 

202.0202 

y2 

198.0198 

V2 

194.1748 

°Ae 

201.7654 

9/l6 

197.7750 

%6 

193.9394 

% 

201.5113 

% 

197.5309 

% 

193.7046 

11Ae 

201.2579 

1Vl& 

197.2873 

Hie 

193.4704 

% 

201.0050 

% 

197.0443 

% 

193.2367 

13Aq 

200.7528 

13/l0 

196.8020 

Hi  6 

193.0036 

Vs 

200.5013 

% 

196.5602 

Vs 

192.7711 

Hie 

200.2503 

Wie 

196.3190 

Hi  6 

192.5391 

Coined  money  was  introduced  into  Mexico  by  the  Spaniards,  and 
during  the  first  years  of  the  Spanish  occupation  all  the  coins  in  use  were 
imported.  In  barter  the  Aztecs  used  cacao-beans,  transparent  quills  of 
gold-dust,  pieces  of  tin  and  thin  copper  cut  in  the  form  of  a T,  and  other 
symbols.  In  1535  (May  11th)  the  King  of  Spain  authorized  the  establish- 
ment of  a mint  ( casa  de  moneda)  in  Mexico  City,  to  be  subject  to  the 
laws  governing  Spanish  mints.  The  first  mint  in  New  Spain  was  com- 
pleted on  the  site  of  the  present  Palacio  Municipal , at  Mexico  City 
(p.  292),  in  1537,  and  the  first  coins  were  struck  in  that  year.  The  first 
money  (issued  between  1537  and  1731)  was  known  as  moneda  macu- 
quina ; it  was  hammered  out  in  an  irregular  form,  marked  with  a cross, 
two  castles,  two  lions,  the  initials  of  the  King,  and  the  Mexico  mark. 
In  1569  the  mint  was  moved  to  the  Palacio  Nacional  adjoining  the  royal 
treasury  ( tesoreria  real).  A decree  dated  1731  recommended  the  erection 
of  a suitable  building  (completed  in  1734)  for  the  exclusive  use  of  the 
mint:  it  occupied  the  site  of  the  present  Museo  Nacional  (p.  298)  and 
cost  $480,000.  From  this  mint  came  (between  1734  and  1771)  coins 
marked  with  the  coat-of-arms  of  Spain  supported  between  the  two 
Pillars  of  Hercules.  This  money  was  known  in  Spain  and  the  New  World 
as  moneda  columnaria , and  in  Italy  as  “ colonnato."  Following  this 
(from  1772  to  1821)  came  the  moneda  de  busto,  which  bore  the  effigy  of 
the  King.  Between  1822  and  1823  (after  the  war  for  independence)  the 
money  bore  the  profile  of  Agustin  de  Iturbide . first  Mexican  Emperor. 
The  Mexican  eagle  and  the  Phrygian  cap  appeared  on  the  coins  issued 
thence  up  to  1862.  From  1863  to  1867  the  imperial  money  bore  the  bust 
of  the  Archduke  Maximilian.  (These  pesos  may  still  be  bought  at  2 
pesos  each,  in  the  antique  shops  at  Mex.  City.)  The  old  republican  peso- 
fuerto . or  duro , of  universal  fame,  dates  from  1868.  It  was  replaced  by 
the  reformed  coins  of  1910,  and  these  in  turn  gave  way  to  the  centenary 
symbols  of  1921. 

Fifteen  subsidiary  mints  were  once  in  operation  in  the  Republic,  and 
of  the  steady  stream  of  silver  pesos  which  poured  from  them,  some 
reached,  and  are  still  circulated  in,  the  maritime  provinces  of  Cathay. 


XIV 


PASSPORTS 


The  numismatist  will  be  interested  in  the  old  revolutionary  coins, 
such  as  the  Morelos  peso,  beaten  out  with  a hammer  and  bearing,  beside 
the  word  “ Sud,”  the  dates  1811-14.  They  are  of  copper,  and  were  forged 
to  meet  the  expenses  of  the  revolucionarios  during  the  struggle  for 
Mexican  Independence.  Perhaps  the  best  book  on  the  subject  is  Indaga- 
ciones  sobre  la  Amonedacion  en  Nuexa  Espaiia  (published  in  Madrid,  in 
1 81  8),  by  Fausto  de  Elhuyar.  It  gives  considerable  interesting  information 
about  the  coinage  of  money  in  New  Spain  from  the  Conquest  down  to 
1814. 

The  price  of  the  Mex.  peso  abroad  is  usually  fixed  in  accordance  with 
the  average  price  of  the  standard  ounce  of  silver  in  the  London  market. 
The  daily  rate  is  published  in  the  newspapers  — to  which  the  traveller 
is  referred.  In  ordinary  times  50  c.  gold  is  the  usual  value  of  the  peso. 
Foreign  exchange  is  sometimes  more  favorable  in  Mexico  City,  Guadala- 
jara, Vera  Cruz,  Monterey,  and  other  large  commercial  centres,  than  it  is 
in  the  smaller  places  less  in  touch  with  the  world.  The  prudent  traveller 
will  glance  at  the  money-market  quotations  in  the  newspapers  before 
putting  through  important  international  financial  transactions.  A com- 
plete collection  of  Mexican  coins  may  be  seen  in  the  National  Museum, 
described  at  p.  298. 

The  present  Casa  de  Moneda  is  in  the  N.-E.  quarter  of 
the  city  in  the  Calle  del  Apartado,  around  the  corner  from 
the  S.-W.  end  of  the  Plaza  de  Loreto  (p,J564).  The  tile  inset 
near  the  main  entrance  is  marked  Apartado,  and  the  inscrip- 
tion above,  now  almost  obliterated,  refers  to  the  erection  of 
the  casa  in  1782,  and  to  its  renovation  in  1801. 

Passports  (pasaportes)  are  unnecessary  in  Mexico,  but 
they  are  frequently  useful  in  proving  the  travellers  identity, 
in  obtaining  registered  letters,  etc.,  and  when  re-crossing 
into  the  United  States.  They  are  always  desirable  if  one 
travels  to  the  remote  and  less  frequented  places;  particularly 
in  cases  where  one  is  called  upon  to  prove  nationality.  Amer- 
ican citizens  can  procure  passports  from  the  State  Depart- 
ment at  Washington.  Before  coming  to  Mexico  the  passport 
should  be  viseed  (small  fee)  by  a Mex.  Consul  stationed  in  the 
U.  S.  A.;  it  will  then  be  officially  correct.  Americans  wTho  in- 
tend to  reside  in  Mexico  are  required  to  register  at  the  nearest 
American  Consulate  soon  after  their  arrival.  This  should  not 
be  omitted,  particularly  by  those  who  expect  to  return  at 
some  future  time,  and  who  wish  to  avail  themselves  of  the 
privilege  (see  p.  xvi)  of  importing  their  household  effects 
free  of  duty. 

Custom-House.  A liberal  amount  of  luggage  is  allowed 
every  traveller  entering  Mexico,  and  the  custom-house 
(aduana)  examination  is  prompt,  courteous,  and  lenient. 
(Comp.  p.  xv.)  It  is  always  advisable  to  superintend  the 
inspection  of  one’s  belongings  in  person.  Fees  should  never 
be  offered;  nor  should  one  show  any  reluctance  to  opening 
luggage.  The  traveller’s  effects  are  ahvays  treated  wdth  cir- 
cumspection, and  are  rarely  taken  out  for  closer  scrutiny. 
Personal  effects  (efectos  usados  o particulares)  are  always  passed 
free.  Small  articles  of  merchandise  are  generally  overlooked, 
but  if  there  be  a number  of  such  articles  irrelevant  to  the 


CUSTOMS-DUTIES 


xv 


traveller's  personal  comfort,  duty  is  levied.  Dutiable  articles 
should  always  be  shown  to  the  inspector.  Duty  is  collected 
on  the  weight  of  an  article  (at  so  much  per  kilo , comp.  p.  xlvii), 
and  the  amount  is  usually  small. 

At  the  chief  frontier  towns  {Laredo,  p.  1;  El  Paso , p.  22) 
Mex.  customs-officers  board  trains  at  the  rlv.  stations  on  the 
Amer.  side  and  inspect  hand-luggage  while  the  train  stands 
on,  or  crosses,  the  international  bridge  above  the  Rio  Grande. 
An  inspector  usually  precedes  them  and  requests  passengers 
to  have  their  baggage  ready.  On  reaching  the  Mexico  side  all 
heavy  luggage  is  removed  from  the  baggage-car  to  a room 
set  apart  in  the  rly.  station.  Passengers  must  then  leave  the 
train  and  look  to  their  trunks,  as  they  will  be  held  until  a 
claimant  appears.  The  porters  {mozos)  who  help  the  traveller 
to  open  luggage  and  re-strap  it  are  usually  grateful  for  a small 
fee  {propina),  say  25  c.  Mex. 

The  customary  formalities  attending  one’s  arrival  by  sea 
are  described  at  p.  469. 

Travelling  Salesmen  (drummers)  can  have  the  import 
duties  on  samples  ( muestras ) refunded  (within  a certain  time) 
if  they  will  declare  their  wishes  to  that  effect  at  the  port  of 
entry.  In  certain  of  the  Mex.  States  commercial  travellers 
must  pay  a selling  tax  (none  in  the  Federal  District),  which 
varies  with  the  locality  and  the  number  of  commodities 
handled.  The  best  plan  is  to  consult  one’s  Consul  or  some 
prominent  local  merchant  regarding  it. 

The  Mex.  Gov’t,  welcomes  travellers  and  is  generous  in  its  treatment 
of  them.  Albeit  the  native  customs-officer  may  be  fierce  of  aspect  and 
begirt  with  weapons,  he  is  usually  one  of  the  most  courteous  of  indi- 
viduals. Politeness  is  his  cult,  and  if  the  visitor  will  bear  this  in  mind, 
he  will  experience  no  difficulty  in  crossing  any  Mexican  frontier.  Inability 
to  speak  Spanish  may  give  rise  sometimes  to  misunderstandings,  but 
the  prudent  always  know  how  to  adjust  such  differences.  In  fact, 
politeness  is  the  most  potent  factor  in  custom-house  transactions.  Con- 
tinuous inspection  of  travellers’  luggage  must  be  back-breaking  and 
nerve-jangling.  Nine  times  in  ten  the  officer  is  a well-meaning  man  with 
no  desire  to  be  unfriendly  or  discourteous.  When  he  inspects  baggage 
he  is  simply  doing  his  duty—  usually  in  the  range  of  some  chief  inspect- 
or’s vigilant  eye.  Whether  he  is  lenient  or  exacting  is  often  determined 
by  the  traveller’s  attitude  toward  him.  It  is  possible  for  him  to  do  his 
duty  and  still  not  make  it  unpleasant,  and  this  happy  desideratum 
can  almost  always  be  attained  by  considerate  and  respectful  deportment. 
During  ten  years  of  continuous  travel,  in  which  the  frontier  of  almost 
every  country  on  the  globe  was  crossed  repeatedly,  the  writer  never  had 
even  “ warm  words”  with  a customs-officer,  notwithstanding  the  fact  that 
on  various  occasions  those  “worst”  custom-houses  — all  too  familiar  to 
experienced  travellers  — were  involved.  He  made  it  an  inviolable  rule 
to  be  studiously  polite  to  everything  resembling  a customs-inspector  or 
collector,  and  he  has  yet  to  register  the  single  exception  which  is  supposed 
to  prove  every  rule. 

A Mexican  law  allows  persons  of  any  nationality  coming  to 
Mexico  to  live,  a considerable  rebate  from  the  usual  duties 
charged  on  household  effects.  To  secure  this  privilege  the  in- 


xvi  UNITED  STATES  CUSTOMS  REGULATIONS 


terested  party  should  obtain  from  the  nearest  Mex.  Consul  a 
copy  of  this  law  and  its  requirements.  The  latter  should  be 
strictly  followed  if  the  rebate  is  to  be  obtained.  Pianos  and 
automobiles  are  not  considered  household  effects  under  this 
law,  nor  is  a reduction  allowed  on  porcelain  (china-ware), 
since  the  Government  holds  that  if  this  is  not  cracked  it  is  in 
good  condition  and  should  pay  full  duties.  The  duty  is  gauged 
by  the  condition  of  the  goods.  The  duty  on  a piece  of  furni- 
ture that  has  been  used  a year  or  thereabout  may  perhaps  be 
accorded  a reduction  of  25%  : while  one  showing  marks  of  long 
u>age  might  be  classed  in  a 90%  reduction.  Persons  availing 
themselves  of  this  privilege  are  required  to  swear  that  they 
will  not  sell  the  goods  thus  imported  before  the  expiration  of 
one  }^ear.  As  the  concession  usually  means  a big  saving,  it 
should  be  taken  advantage  of  by  every  one  coming  to  Mexico 
with  the  intention  of  residing  in  the  country.  The  same  con- 
cession is  not  granted  twice  to  the  same  person.  If  the  Consul 
possesses  no  information  on  the  subject,  write  to  El  Adminis- 
trator Genei'al  de  Aduanas,  City  of  Mexico,  Mex. 

Customs-Duties.  As  the  tariff  is  subject  to  change,  travel- 
lers who  wish  to  know  the  charges  placed  upon  foreign  goods 
imported  into  Mexico  must  consult  the  last  edition  of  the 
arancel  de  aduanas , published  at  Mexico  City  (translations  on 
sale  in  the  book-shops),  and  find  out  if  any  order  has  been 
issued  which  modifies  the  duties. 

United  States  Customs  Regulations  are  a bit  more  com- 
plicated than  those  of  Mexico,  particularly  when  one  enters 
the  country  through  a seaport,  but  a strict  observance  of  the 
law’s  requirements  (indicated  on  a printed  slip  handed  to  each 
passenger  before  the  ship  is  docked)  will  save  time  and  annoy- 
ance. The  formalities  seem  cumbrous  to  the  uninitiated,  but 
they  should  not  be  dreaded.  The  inspectors  are  looking  for 
smugglers,  and  honest  folk  have  nothing  to  fear. 

On  crossing  the  Rio  Grande  from  Mexico  to  the  U.  S.  A.  the 
svstem  of  baggage  inspection  is  practically  the  same  as  on  the 
Mexico  side  (described  at  p.  xiv),  and  albeit  the  examination 
mav  be  a trifle  more  minute,  the  officers  are  equally  courteous 
and  obliging.  Each  passenger  is  allowed  50  cigars  or  300 
cigarettes  free  of  duty.  No  more  than  50  should  be  carried 
across  the  frontier,  as  the  law  otherwise  forbids  the  importation 
of  less  than  3,000  cigars  or  cigarettes  at  one  time.  Returning 
Americans  are  permitted  to  bring  in,  free  of  duty,  articles 
purchased  abroad,  for  their  own  use,  to  the  value  of  $100 
(U.  S.  money).  But  as  certain  things  are  forbidden  admission  to 
the  country  (paradise  feathers,  sealskins,  intoxicating  liquors, 
etc.),  the  traveller  is  advised  to  consult  the  Customs  Regula- 
tions, or  seek  the  advice  of  an  American  Consul.  Those  tour- 
ists who  make  their  purchases  of  reputable  houses  (all  of 


THE  SPANISH  LANGUAGE  xvii 

which  are  well  known  to  the  customs-officers)  and  who  secure 
invoices  (properly  stamped)  for  their  goods  will  have  the  least 
trouble.  It  is  wise  always  to  get  a bill  for  articles  purchased  in 
Mexico,  provided  there  are  several  and  their  value  is  important. 
The  Mexican  Government  keeps  a record  of  exports,  and  bills 
are  often  called  for,  for  inspection,  when  outward-bound 
luggage  is  being  examined.  Where  revenue  stamps  do  not 
appear  on  the  bill,  it  must  be  marked  provisional  — which 
indicates  that  a regular,  stamped  bill  is  to  follow.  A heavy 
fine  is  imposed  if  bills  are  not  made  out  and  stamped  in  legal 
form. 

Men  and  women  inspectors  are  employed  on  both  sides  of 
the  river.  The  traveller  may  wish  to  remember  that  Spanish 
is  understood  by  the  American,  and  English  by  the  Mexican 
inspectors. 

The  U.  S.  A.  and  Mexican  laws  are  severe  with  respect  to 
the  offering  of  bribes  to  customs-officers,  and  this  should  never 
be  attempted. 

An  American  law  permits  citizens  of  the  U.  S.  A.  residing 
abroad  to  bring  home  with  them  (these  should  accompany 
them  when  possible)  all  household  goods  (free  of  duty)  used 
bv  them  abroad  for  more  than  one  year.  To  take  advantage 
of  this  concession  the  interested  party  must  secure  the  proper 
documents  from  the  American  Consul  nearest  his  place  of 
residence  abroad.  It  matters  not  if  all  these  effects  were  pur- 
chased outside  of  the  U.  S.  A. 

The  Spanish  Language  {el  idioma  espanol),  called  by  Span- 
iards generally  cl  Castellano  (the  Castilian),  or  la  lengua  caste- 
liana  (the  Castilian  tongue),  sprang,  like  the  other  Romance 
languages,  from  the  vulgar  Latin,  which  at  an  early  period 
drove  out  the  languages  spoken  by  the  Iberians  and  Cantabri- 
ans, the  primitive  inhabitants  of  Spain.  From  the  Arabs,  who 
first  landed  on  Spanish  soil  in  711  and  maintained  themselves 
until  1492,  the  Spanish  language  received  that  Oriental  char- 
acter which  distinguishes  it  among  the  Romanic  languages. 
Among  the  numerous  dialects  developed  from  the  amalgama- 
tion of  the  Latin  and  the  Gothic  languages  (the  Gallego, 
Catalan , Valenciano,  and  others)  the  Castilian  gradually 
gained  the  ascendency;  in  time  becoming  established  as  the 
language  of  Spain,  and  later  of  the  greater  portion  of  Latin 
America.  In  perpetual  remembrance  of  the  political  and  lin- 
guistic preponderance  of  Castile  over  all  the  other  kingdoms 
and  districts  of  Spain,  it  was  called  Castilian. 

The  Present-Day  Spanish  is  one  of  the  softest,  most  beauti- 
ful and  sonorous  of  the  world’s  languages.  Twenty-one  nations 
speak  it  (60  millions  of  people  on  the  American  continent,  and 
2.5  millions  in  Spain),  and  thus  make  it  the  most  international 
of  all  the  world  languages.  It  contains  about  150,000  words, 


xviii  THE  SPANISH  LANGUAGE 

75  per  cent  of  which  are  Latin,  14  per  cent  Greek,  6 per  cent 
Arabic,  and  5 per  cent  of  various  origins  — Iberian,  Punic, 
Visigothic,  Hebrew,  French  and  whatnot.  The  Greek  element 
is  essentially  technological,  and  it  constitutes  the  scientific 
portion  of  the  language.  The  Latin  and  the  French  scholar 
will  find  much  in  Spanish  that  is  familiar  to  him.  A decided 
advantage  in  learning  it  is  that  the  student  possessed  of  no 
Latin  will  get  an  intimate  knowledge  thereof;  in  this  way 
accomplishing  a double  achievement. 

The  Spanish  of  the  Americas,  that  rich  estate  acquired  when 
‘A  Castilla  y a Leon  Nuevo  Mundo  dio  Col6n/  is  more  extensive 
than  that  of  Spain,  and  in  its  resourcefulness  bears  much  the 
same  relation  to  the  Spanish  of  Spain  that  the  English  spoken 
in  the  United  States  does  to  that  of  Great  Britain. 

The  Spanish  of  Mexico  is  by  far  the  most  virile,  subtle,  and 
elastic  of  any  spoken  in  the  Americas.  It  is  notably  richer  than 
that  of  Castile,  and  it  easily  surpasses  the  tongue  of  the 
hi  other  Country  in  copiousness,  flexibility  and  elegance  of 
expression.  It  is  softer  and  more  euphonious  than  the  lisping, 
burring  speech  of  North-Central  Spain,  since  the  old  Arabic 
gutturals  still  heard  there  become  mere  aspirates  in  Mexico 
(and  the  Americas  generally)*  The  Mexican  Pronunciation  of 
Spanish  is  mainly  that  of  all  Spanish-America  down  to  Chile. 
The  cultured  people  of  Southern  Spain  who  followed  Cortes 
to  the  New  World  and  helped  to  settle  Mexico,  brought  thither 
the  Andalusian  pronunciation  of  Spanish,  and  it  has  changed 
but  little  since  that  remote  time. 

Of  the  182  known  languages  and  dialects  which  at  one  time 
were  spoken  within  the  confines  of  Mexico,  63  properly  classi- 
fied ones  remain.  Fifty-two  of  them  are  Indian.  About  80 
per  cent  (12  millions)  of  the  people  now  speak  Spanish  — 
a Spanish  so  charged  with  the  best  elements  of  the  finest  of  the 
native  tongues  that  their  influence  on  the  daily  speech  of  the 
people  should  be  understood  by  whosoever  would  speak  and 
comprehend  it.  Many  of  these  Indian  elements  and  their 
derivations  are  current  in  the  Spanish  spoken  as  far  south  as 
the  Argentine.  Most  important  among  them  are  those  derived 
from  the  Nahuatl  tongue,  described  below. 

The  Nahuatl,  the  language  spoken  by  the  Nahoas,  or  Aztecs,  or  Mexica, 
was  in  its  prime  one  of  the  most  perfect  and  finished  of  all  the  native  lan- 
guages spoken  in  America.  Bancroft  says  that  it  surpassed  many  of  the 
tongues  of  Europe  and  Asia  by  its  elegance  of  expression.  Although  want- 
ing the  six  consonants,  b,  d,  f,  r,  g,  s , it  was  full  and  rich.  Its  copiousness  is 
demonstrated  by  the  fact  that  1200  different  species  of  Mexican  plants, 
200  or  more  species  of  birds,  and  a large  number  of  quadrupeds,  reptiles, 
insects,  metals  and  whatnot  each  has  its  proper  name  in  the  Mexican  lan- 
guage. Mendieta  said  that  it  was  not  excelled  in  beauty  by  the  Latin,  that 
it  abounded  in  tropes  and  metaphors,  and  displayed  more  art  in  its  con- 
struction. Camargo  called  it  the  richest  in  the  whole  land,  and  the  purest, 
since  it  contained  no  foreign  barbaric  elements.  Gomara  said  it  was  the  best, 
most  copious,  and  most  extended  in  all  New  Spain.  Davila  Padilla  said 


THE  SPANISH  LANGUAGE 


xix 


that  it  wa3  very  elegant  and  graceful,  although  it  contained  many  meta- 
phors, which  made  it  difficult.  Brasseur  de  Bourbourg  said  that  from  sub- 
lime heights  it  descended  to  common  things  with  a sonorousness  and  rich- 
ness of  expression  peculiar  only  to  itself;  while  Lorenzana  characterized 
it  as  very  elegant,  sweet,  and  complete.  The  missionaries  found  it  ample 
for  their  purpose,  as  in  it,  and  without  the  aid  of  foreign  words,  they  could 
express  all  the  shades  of  their  dogmas,  from  the  thunderings  and  anathemas 
of  Sinai  to  the  sublime  teachings  of  Christ. 

The  Aztec  contains  more  diminutives  and  augmentatives  than  the  Italian, 
and  is  probably  richer  than  any  other  tongue  in  verbal  nouns  and  abstracts; 
there  being  hardly  a verb  from  which  verbal  nouns  cannot  be  formed,  or  a 
substantive  or  adjective  of  which  abstracts  cannot  be  made.  A noteworthy 
fact  is  that  most  of  these  nouns  can  be  converted  into  verbs  when  occasion 
offers.  It  is  phenomenally  rich  in  verbs,  and  almost  every  verb  forms  a root 
from  which  others  of  different  meaning  spring.  Agglutination  or  aggrega- 
tion is  carried  to  a wide  extent,  and  words  of  inordinate  length  are  not  un- 
common. A word  of  sixteen  syllables,  the  name  of  a plant  — mihuiittil- 
moyoiccuitlatonpicixochitl  — occurs  in  the  writings  of  Hernandez. 

Hundreds  of  Nahuatl  and  other  Indian  words  are  current  in  the  Spanish 
spoken  in  Mexico.  The  word  Mexico  is  itself  a derivative  of  the  Aztec 
Mexictli,  the  ancient  war-god  of  the  Nahoas.  The  practiced  ear  will  detect 
the  subtle  Indian  influence  in  the  Spanish  spoken  in  each  of  the  29  states 
and  territories  of  the  Mex.  Repub.  Every  district  has  its  individual  dejo  or 
manner  of  usage.  The  Spanish  of  Sonora  is  influenced  by  the  Yaki  tongue; 
that  of  Chihuahua  by  the  Tarahumare,  of  Nayarit  by  the  Huichol  and 
Nayarit;  of  Michoacan  by  the  Tarascan;  of  Zacatecas  by  several  tribes 
which  dwell  within  the  state.  Tlaxralan,  Otomi  and  other  vocables  and  de- 
rivatives are  encountered  in  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  Huastecan  words  abound 
along  the  Gulf  coast  northward  from  Vera  Cruz,  while  in  Southern  Mexico 
the  Mixteco-Zapoteca  dialects  are  frequently  heard.  The  rich  Maya  language 
of  Yucatan  was  spoken  by  a race  which  ranked  with  the  Aztecs  in  advance- 
ment, and  which  in  many  respects  was  considered  their  superior.  Its  influ- 
ence extends  along  the  Spanish  Main  to  the  Orinoco.  (For  a list  of  the  lin- 
guistic families  in  Mexico  see  page  lx.) 

The  Nahuatl  Elements  in  the  Spanish  of  Mexico  usually  are  distinguish- 
able by  their  structural  peculiarities  and  terminations;  for  example:  Tepee 
or  tepetl,  means  hill,  mountain,  as  Chapul-tepec  ( chapulin , grasshopper) 
or  grasshopper  hill:  Popocatepetl  (popoca-iepetl) , smoking-mountain.  The 
terminations  can  and  tlan  signify  place,  as:  Coyoa-can,  place  of  the  coyote 
(Aztec,  coy  oil,  wolf).  Oco-tlan  ( ocote , pine),  place  of  the  pines.  -Milco  is  a 
common  termination,  as  Xochimilco  ( xochitl , flower;  milli,  seed-bed,  co, 
in,  or  place),  place  of  the  flowers,  or  where  flowers  grow.  -Milpa  is  fre- 
quently used  and  has  practically  the  same  meaning,  as  Cacahuamilpa 
( cacahua , peanut;  milli , seed-plot,  or  field,  pa,  place),  peanut-field.  Atl% 
water,  is  a suffix  to  many  substantives,  as  Chocclatl  (ccoco,  sour;  all,  water), 
chocolate,  or  cacao;  called,  by  the  Aztecs,  cocoa- water,  or  cacauatl  (the  bean 
being  sour  until  mixed  with  water  and  sugar).  Tomatl,  or  jitomate  ( xictli, 
naval;  tomatl , tomato),  tomato.1 

In  certain  regions  these  indigenous  Indian  elements  exercise  an  almost 
predominant  influence  in  the  daily  speech  of  the  people.  They  often  make 
for  melody,  and  they  impart  to  the  Spanish  a character  quite  as  beautiful  and 
seductive  as  the  lovely  tropical  countries  in  which  it  is  spoken.  Because  of 
these  expressive  Indian  vocables  the  Spanish  of  Mexico  is  superior  to  that 
spoken  elsewhere  on  the  continent. 

The  hybrid  Spanish  sometimes  heard  along  the  Rio  Grande,  and  in  Ari- 
zona and  California,  has  given  rise  to  the  erroneous  impression  that  Mexicans 
speak  a corrupted  Spanish . The  lower  classes  in  Mexico  mangle  the  language 
as  ignorant  people  everywhere  do  all  languages,  but  cultured  Mexicans  use 
as  good  Spanish  as  Bostonians  or  Baltimoreans  do  English;  employing  an 
extensive  vocabulary,  adhering  punctiliously  to  rules  of  grammar,  manag- 
ing the  sometimes  difficult  subjunctive  with  scholarly  precision,  and  speak- 
ing with  grace  and  discrimination. 


1 The  student  interested  in  the  Aztec  and  other  Indian  Languages  is  ad- 
vised to  consult  Terry's  Short  Cut  to  Spanish,  or  a Diccionario  de  Aztequismos, 
by  Licenciado  Cecilio  A.  Robelo. 


XX 


EL  IDIOMA  ESPANOL 


Th©  Arabic  Words  one  frequently  notes  in  Spanish  are  Guadalajara 
(Wala-l-  H ajar  a),  river  of  stones;  Valladolid  ( Belad-wali ),  land  of  the  gov- 
ernor; azulejo , blue  and  white  tile;  arroba,  a weight  of  25  lbs.;  adobe  (at-tob), 
a sun-dried  brick;  lozano,  sprightly;  fardo,  a bale  of  goods;  zagal,  a stout 
young  chap;  naranja,  orange;  alforjas,  saddlebags,  etc.  Most  of  the  words 
beginning  with  al  (the  Arabic  article),  are  of  Arabic  origin,  like  alcohol , 
almanac,  algebra,  algodon  (cotton),  alhaja  (jewel),  etc.  The  word  noria  is 
Moorish,  as  is  also  the  water-wheel  it  stands  for  and  which  is  so  common 
in  Mexico. 

The  grammatical  structure  of  the  best  Spanish  of  Spain  is 
the  same  as  that  of  Mexico  and  of  the  other  countries  down 
to  the  Argentine,  — where  it  is  influenced  by  the  National 
Language  of  the  Argentine.1 

The  Lisp  (el  ceceo ),  which  Charles  Fifth  is  said  to  have  per- 
petuated, and  which  is  so  common  in  certain  districts  of 
Spain,  is  not  employed  by  Mexicans.  It  constitutes  one  of  the 
salient  differences  between  the  Spanish  spoken  in  Northern 
and  Central  Spain,  and  that  of  Spanish  America.2 

While  Castilians  declare  the  lisp  to  be  the  correct  form  and 
pronounce  decimos  (we  say)  day-theme-ohs,  cepillo  (brush), 
theh-peel-vo,  and  feliz  (happy),  fay-leeth,  Spanish  American 
purists  reject  this  form  and  say  day-see-mohs,  seh-pee-yoh, 
and  faj'-lease.  They  say  also  plah-sere  (instead  of  plah- 
theer)  for  pleasure;  cohn-sep-see-own  (instead  of  cohn-sep- 
thee-own  — like  the  in  theatre),  for  conception,  etc. 

The  nice  acquirement  of  the  lisp  is  difficult  outside  of 
Spain.  WTell-bred  Spaniards,  in  pronouncing  the  c and  z 
render  the  lisp  almost  imperceptibly;  something  like  the  half- 
smothered  sound  of  th  in  thistle.  Unless  delicately  uttered  it 
is  unpleasant  to  cultured  Spanish- American  ears  — particu- 
larly to  those  whose  ancestors  had  theirs  tweaked  for  three 
hundred  j^ears  by  the  iron  hand  of  conquering  Spain.  Many 
Spanish-Americans  regard  the  lisp  as  an  affectation,  and  its 

1 The  Spanish  of  the  Argentine  is  analogous  to  that  of  Mexico  in  that 
it  possesses  a wealth  of  metaphorical  expressions  drawn  from  the  rich  and 
picturesque  Indian  life  and  history  inseparably  associated  with  the  Re- 
public. Because  of  the  cosmopolitan  character  of  its  population  it  has,  in 
its  vocabulary,  its  syntax  and  its  pronunciation,  almost  as  many  points  of 
contact  with  French  and  Italian  as  it  has  wdth  Spanish.  It  might  be  called 
a progressive  admixture  of  Spanish,  French,  Italian,  English,  and  Indian 
elements  — the  latter  represented  by  the  various  tribes  of  the  broad  Pam- 
pas, of  adjacent  Patagonia,  of  Chile,  Paraguay,  and  contiguous  regions. 
The  Argentines  consider  their  language  superior  to  pure  Castilian,  and  they 
prefer  to  call  it  El  idioma  nacional  de  los  argentinos  (the  national  language 
of  the  Argentines).  As  in  Mexico,  the  names  of  many  plants,  animals,  in- 
sects, flowers,  places,  etc.,  in  the  Silver  Republic  are  of  Indian  origin.  The 
Spanish  of  the  Argentine  is  treated  of  at  length  in  Terry's  Short  Cut  to 
Spanish. 

2 The  lisping  sound  of  th  or  z before  the  vowels,  especially  in  the  syl- 
lables za,  zo,  zu,  is  of  Arabic  provenience.  Carlos  V,  sometime  (1516- 
1556)  King  of  Spain,  who  is  said  to  have  had  a hair  lip  and  perforce  to  have 
lisped  certain  of  the  sibilant  letters,  is  believed  to  have  perpetuated  the 
Arabic  lisp  and  perhaps  to  have  introduced  the  lisping  of  the  d,  as  well  as 
that  of  the  c before  the  vowels  e and  i.  Mayhap  in  substantiation  of  the 
Spanish  proverb,  como  canta  el  abad,  responde  el  sacristan,  the  king’s  courtiers 
imitated  him,  and  in  their  turn  were  imitated  by  the  commonalty. 


EL  CASTELLANO 


xxi 


possession  gains  the  student  no  honors.  A native  affecting  it 
would  be  regarded  as  would  an  American  ‘ too  English  ’ in  his 
pronunciation. 

It  should  be  noted  that  in  order  to  keep  alive  the  custom 
and  usage  of  the  Spanish  stage,  the  Castilian  of  the  high-class 
drama  usually  is  pronounced  in  the  Castilian  fashion.  Also 
that  along  the  Gulf  Coast  of  Mexico  the  natives  often  clip 
syllables  and  lisp  their  s’s  after  the  manner  of  certain  Andalu- 
sians. 

One  is  perhaps  correct  in  saying  that  the  Spanish  lisp,  on 
the  tongue  of  an  American,  is  no  less  offensive  to  a discrimi- 
nating Mexican  ear  than  the  bizarre  habit  of  clipping  English 
terminations  is  to  that  of  an  English  purist.  Or  the  New 
England  custom  of  saying  goin,  bein,  meetin , etc.,  instead  of 
going,  being,  meeting. 

In  Mexico  the  liquid  U is  pronounced  y , as  cah-&?/-yoh, 
instead  of  (the  Castilian)  cah-bahl-yo;  cahs-tee-yah-no, 
instead  of  cahs-teel-yah-no,  etc.  The  lower  classes  of  Mexico 
offend  the  canons  of  the  language  by  substituting  b for  v , as 
in  buelbo  instead  of  vuelvo  (I  return);  tubo  for  tuvo  (he  had); 
in  saying  pus  for  pues;  muncho  for  mucho  (much),  and  so  on. 
Added  to  this  is  the  affected  patois  of  the  genie  de  coleta  (the 
bull-fighters),  who  bring  with  them  from  sunny  Sevilla  the 
trick  of  smothering  terminations  and  saying  comi-o , queri-o, 
gana-o , for  comido,  querido , ganado ; no  vale  na , no  hay  na , for 
no  vale  nada , no  hay  nada  — and  who  indulge  in  other  lin- 
guistic gymnastics.  Usually  they  speak  with  affected  bravado 
and  in  such  a whirlwind  fashion  that  any  student  of  Spanish 
who  finds  it  possible  to  understand  the  spoken  words  of  a 
Spanish  bullfighter  — particularly  one  who  has  lost  one  or 
two  front  teeth  — may  congratulate  himself,  for  in  all  the 
course  of  his  study  he  will  not  encounter  a more  difficult  prop- 
osition. 

The  American  in  Mexico  should  make  it  a point  to  practise 
the  pronunciation  accepted  there  as  correct.  The  scholarly 
Mexican  speaks  Spanish  with  unusual  purity,  and  the  traveller 
should  not  fall  into  the  error  of  thinking  the  vernacular  there 
inferior  to  that  of  court  circles  at  Madrid. 

Spanish  is  remarkably  easy  to  learn  when  stripped  of  the 
perplexities  with  which  purists  and  certain  dogmatic  gram- 
marians often  endow  it.  The  fundamentals  of  the  language 
are  neither  involved  nor  difficult,  and  it  presents  few  if  any 
of  the  knotty  lingual  problems  of  French  or  English.  There 
are  practically  no  elisions  such  as  occur  in  French  and  Italian, 
and  there  is  but  one  silent  letter  in  the  alphabet.  Spanish  is 
unusually  open  and  aboveboard.  It  also  is  harmonious  and 
friendly.  When  one  hears  a word  spoken,  one  knows  exactly 
how  to  spell  it;  when  one  sees  a word,  one  knows  how  to  pro- 
nounce it.  The  preponderance  of  vowel  sounds  impart  to  it 


XXII 


EL  CASTELLANO 


a rhythm  and  a melody  which  make  its  pronunciation  and 
retention  easy.  Spanish  harbors  none  of  the  idiosyncrasies  of 
pronunciation  which  one  finds  in  French.1 

With  a very  few  exceptions  it  is  pronounced  exactly  as  it  is 
written,  and  it  does  not  present  those  difficulties  met  with  in 
the  orthography  and  pronunciation  of  certain  other  tongues. 
One  who  knows  Spanish  well  can  catch  the  sense  of  much  of 
the  spoken  and  written  Portuguese,  Italian,  and  the  Lingua 
franca  current  in  the  Levant.  By  speaking  Spanish  in  certain 
districts  in  Italy  he  can  make  his  meaning  known  and  under- 
stand the  drift  of  the  spoken  Italian. 

Contrary  to  the  common  belief,  Spanish  is  more  concise  and 
is  less  prolix  than  English.  There  is  no  padded  spelling. 
English  syllables  average  longer  than  Spanish.  Where  double 
letters  occur  in  the  latter,  they  serve  to  clarify  the  pronuncia- 
tion. Usually  they  have  the  vocal  value  of  but  one  letter  (like 
the  ll,  pronounced  y)  Many  of  the  short  Spanish  words  are 
such  marvels  of  condensed  expression  that  they  remind  one 
of  an  innocent-appearing  but  powerful  explosive.  The  English 
student  of  Spanish  will  often  have  recourse  to  these  words  to 
express  an  idea  which  the  less  flexible  English  words  somehow 
fail  to  express. 

Certain  of  the  Spanish  verbs  are  models  of  lucidity  and 
compactness.  One  word  often  expresses  what  requires  three 
English  words,  as:  vamonos,  let  us  go;  ire,  I will  go;  llego , he 
arrived;  voy,  I am  going;  vinieron,  they  came;  hay,  is  there, 
are  there,  etc.  Certain  Spanish  verbs  mal^e  a statement  and 
ask  a question  by  the  verb  itself,  as : i habla  usted  espahoif 
speak  you  (do  3rou  speak)  Spanish?  Si  sehor,  lo  hablo,  yes  sir, 
I (do)  speak  it.  In  nouns  like  servant,  which  in  English  is 
used  for  both  sexes,  the  terminal  letter  indicates  the  gender  in 
Spanish,  while  a prefix,  like  man-  or  maid-,  is  required  in 
English  to  indicate  the  sex.  The  inverted  interrogation  and 
exclamation  points  at  the  beginning  of  a Spanish  sentence  are 
admirable  aids  to  voice  inflexion.  Perhaps  in  no  other  language 
are  the  proverbs  with  which  Spanish  fairly  bristles  as  terse  and 
expressive. 

1 The  French-speaking  person  will  find  in  Spanish  much  that  is 
familiar  and  easy  to  learn.  Like  the  French  nouns,  the  majority  of  those  in 
Spanish  are  masculine  or  feminine,  while  (as  in  French)  the  articles  ( los 
artlculos),  the  adjectives  ( los  adjetivos),  and  the  pronouns  ( los  pronombres) 
vary  their  form,  or  spelling,  to  agree  with  the  gender  of  the  nouns.  French 
> erbs  are  conjugated  much  like  those  of  Spanish,  more  than  75  per  cent  being 
of  one  termination,  the  remainder  reducible  to  easily  remembered  rules. 
Like  those  of  Spanish,  French  verbs  have  two  past  times,  the  perfect  and 
the  imperfect,  while  will  and  shall  express  the  future  meaning  by  a change 
in  the  verb  itself.  Many  of  the  French  verbs  are  spelled  just  like  the  Spanish 
words,  with  a difference  onty  in  the  pronunciation.  Like  the  Spanish  they 
have  complete  verbs  which  express  will,  power,  and  duty,  and  which  supply 
the  place  of  the  English  will,  can,  may,  shall,  should,  could,  would,  might, 
must.  The  reflexive  se  has  its  French  counterpart,  while  French  adverbs 
are  formed  much  as  are  the  Spanish,  by  the  addition  of  ment,  instead  cf 
mcnte,  to  the  adjective. 


LA  LENGUA  CASTELLANA  xxiia 

The  lack  of  a knowledge  of  Spanish  should  never  deter  the 
traveller  from  visiting  Mexico,  as  English-speaking  persons  are 
to  be  found  in  nearly  all  the  larger  towns  and  cities.  Spanish- 
speaking countries  are  the  easiest  of  all  foreign  countries  to 
travel  in,  as  the  natives  gesticulate  freely  and  expressively, 
and,  being  naturally  nimble-witted,  they  require  but  a few 
key-words  to  grasp  the  meaning  of  a sentence.  But  a slight 
knowledge  of  the  language  will  add  greatly  to  the  pleasure  of  a 
trip  through  the  Republic,  as  it  will  bring  one  into  more  inti- 
mate personal  relations  with  the  people,  while  delivering  one 
from  the  wearisome  tutelage  of  interpreters  or  guides. 

Aside  from  utilitarian  considerations,  the  study  of  Spanish 
as  a means  of  culture  will  amply  reward  those  who  undertake 
it.  It  opens  the  way  to  many  new  forms  of  intellectual  enjoy- 
ment and  introduces  one  to  one  of  the  finest  and  richest  litera- 
tures in  the  world.  Some  of  this  literature  teems  with  a ro- 
mance unknown  to  other  languages,  while  the  vast  realm  of 
Spanish  history  is  in  part  the  history  of  our  own  land  and  the 
men  who  discovered  it.  No  other  foreign  language  is  more 
intimately  associated  with  American  history,  and  none  is 
destined  to  be  of  greater  importance  in  the  future  develop- 
ment of  American  commerce. 

A smattering  of  Spanish  is  easily  acquired.  Many  of  the 
words  with  vowel  endings  have  a musical  ring  to  them,  and 
after  being  heard  a number  of  times  they  stick  in  the  mind 
like  the  fragments  of  a catchy,  oft-whistled  tune.  When  the 
student  learns  how  to  conjugate  certain  key  verbs  he  can  con- 
jugate hundreds  of  others  in  the  same  class.  A surprising 
number  of  English  words  in  every  day  use  are  also  Spanish. 
In  many  instances  the  only  difference  is  that  of  pronunciation. 
Hundreds  of  English  words  become  Spanish  by  the  addition  of 
a single  accent,  or  the  elimination  or  addition  of  a terminal  or 
other  letter.  Other  hundreds  are  convertible  by  rules  so 
simple  that  it  is  easier  to  remember  than  to  forget  them. 
More  than  500  English  words  ending  in  - lion , -ction  become 
Spanish  by  changing  the  t to  c and  putting  an  acute  accent 
over  the  o,  as:  abomination,  abomination ; action,  action , etc. 
The  system  of  Spanish  word-building  is  so  simple  that  once 
learned  the  student  can  at  a glance  determine  the  status  and 
meaning  of  thousands  of  words,  thereby  saving  himself  con- 
siderable mental  drudgery.  (This  system  is  explained  in  detail 
in  Terry's  Short  Cut  to  Spanish,  for  sale  at  all  bookshops.) 

The  suggestive  Spanish  proverb,  la  letra  con  sangre  entra , 
loses  its  sinister  import  for  whoever  approaches  the  study  of 
the  language  from  an  intelligent  angle.  By  eliminating  the 
non-essentials,  and  learning  only  the  essentials,  one  can 
absorb  a lot  of  Spanish  in  a few  weeks*  time.  The  author 
believes  that  a language  remains  only  a theory  to  a person  if 
it  is  but  ocularly  acquired.  Linguistically  learned,  it  is  a 


xxii  b 


THE  SPANISH  LANGUAGE 


living,  practical  aid.  Practice  and  constant  repetition  is  the 
surest  road  to  a correct  speaking  knowledge  of  any  tongue. 
Children  demonstrate  this  when  they  learn  to  express  their 
wishes  before  they  know  the  meaning  of  the  word  grammar. 
It  is  said  that  Greek  had  its  literature  long  before  it  had  a 
grammar.  It  is  no  doubt  true  that  few  Spaniards  know  from 
memory  all  the  grammatical  rules  and  their  endless  exceptions 
which  the  student  of  Spanish  is  asked  to  learn  by  many  of  the 
writers  of  grammars  and  methods  for  acquiring  the  language. 

If  there  is  one  royal  road  to  a foreign  tongue  it  is  through 
speaking  it.  When  one  begins  to  speak  in  a foreign  language 
one  begins  to  think  in  it,  and  this  is  necessary  to  one  who 
would  speak  it. 

If,  on  reaching  Mexico,  the  student  will  set  for  himself  the 
easy  task  of  learning  ten  useful  words  a day,  in  thirty  days  he 
will  possess  a vocabulary  almost  equal  to  that  of  the  ordinary 
servant,  railway  employee,  taxi-driver,  etc.,  with  whom  he 
comes  in  contact.  He  can  also  grasp  the  sense  of  the  news 
items  in  the  vernacular  papers,  read  street  signs  and  names, 
and  get  about  fairly  easily.  In  ninety  days  he  will  have  a 
range  equal  to  that  of  the  average  man  in  the  street,  and  daily 
practice  will  soon  render  him  proficient.  In  reading,  pick  out 
and  write  down  the  most  useful  words,  then  memorize  them  or 
make  lists  on  cards  for  the  pocket  or  to  be  pinned  on  the  wall 
where  the}'  will  be  seen  often.  When  the  words  have  been 
absorbed  by  the  mind,  replace  them  with  others.  One  of  the 
most  satisfactory  results  of  reading  is  that  the  language  shapes 
itself  naturally  in  the  mind;  good  speech  becomes  a habit,  and 
in  time  the  tongue  finds  it  easier  to  express  a thought  correct!}' 
than  incorrectly.  The  student  interested  in  progress  should 
never  hesitate  to  practise  what  he  has  learned  when  the 
occasion  offers.  Every  time  a word  is  uttered  it  is  fixed  more 
firmly  in  the  mind.  Add  a little  each  day  to  the  store  of 
knowledge,  and  ere  long  one  will  be  surprised  at  one’s  own 
proficiency. 

American  travellers  are  not  expected  to  speak  Spanish  flu- 
ently after  a few  weeks’  residence  in  Mexico,  and  on  this  score 
the  Mexicans  are  thoughtful  and  helpful.  In  fact  no  people 
are  more  considerate  of  the  learner  than  those  who  speak  the 
Spanish  tongue.  They  never  laugh  at  the  mistakes  one  may 
make,  however  ludicrous,  and  to  a sensitive  person  this  com- 
mendable trait  robs  the  language  of  one  of  its  chief  stumbling 
blocks. 

The  alphabet  and  the  vowel  sounds  should  come  first.  Both 
are  so  easy  that  any  bright  schoolboy  can  learn  them  in  30 
minutes.  Verbs  express  action,  hence  they  are  among  the 
most  important  words  in  a language.  Learn  and  employ  the 
infinitive  of  verbs  until  study  and  practice  bring  proficiency 
in  the  management  of  the  conjugations.  Hesitate  to  follow 


LA  LENGUA  CASTELLANA  xxiic 

the  silly  custom  of  trying  to  learn  rules  of  grammar  before 
acquiring  the  ability  to  express  the  simplest  wish.  Grammars 
deter  many  a well-meaning  person  from  attempting  to  learn 
foreign  languages,  but  they  never  frighten  children,  who  know 
nothing  of  them  and  who  soon  learn  to  chatter  volubly  enough. 
Remember  that  the  letter  h is  always  silent  and  that  the  letter 
j takes  its  place  and  is  pronounced  nearly  like  it.  If  these 
instructions  are  followed  one  soon  will  have  achieved  one’s 
first  mastery  over  the  idioma. 

When  one  has  acquired  a knowledge  of  the  language,  he 
should  avoid  certain  expressions  which  carry  double  meanings. 
For  instance,  in  asking  a dining-room  waitress  for  milk,  never 
employ  the  verb  tener  — to  have.  Instead,  use  the  third 
person  singular,  present  indicative,  of  the  impersonal  verb 
haber,  to  have,  as  follows: 

(incorrect)  $ tiene  uste  leche?  have  you  (a  flow  of)  milk? 

(correct)  $ hay  leche?  is  there  any  milk? 

She  may  resent  being  taken  for  a wet-nurse. 

Never  employ  cryptic  remarks  heard  on  the  street  unless 
their  full  meaning  is  known.  Never  omit  to  affix  Don  to  any 
gentleman’s  name.  It  requires  no  effort  and  is  always  ap- 
preciated. The  second  person  of  verbs  is  used  in  addressing 
children,  loved  ones,  and  menials.  Defer  employing  it  until  a 
fair  working  knowledge  of  the  language  has  been  acquired. 
L se  the  third  person  instead.  It  is  more  formal,  more  polite, 
in  wider  use,  and  it  never  offends.  Accents  have  an  important 
bearing  on  the  meaning  of  certain  Spanish  words,  and  they 
should  be  noted.  They  do  not  always  appear  over  capital 
letters. 

The  majority  of  the  textbooks  or  methods,  or  grammars, 
for  learning  Spanish  either  are  out  of  date  or  they  essay  to 
teach  the  court  language  of  Madrid;  which  differs  in  many 
ways  from  that  of  the  Americas.  Much  of  it  has  to  be  un- 
learned by  the  man  who  would  travel  or  do  business  in  Mexico, 
and  the  discarded  elements  replaced  by  Indian  words  current 
in  the  language  spoken  there.  The  writer  therefore  believes 
that  his  own  Short  Cut  to  Spanish  is  more  to  the  purpose  of 
the  traveller  in  Mexico.  For  a detailed  description  of  it  he 
is  referred  to  the  first  inside  cover  page  of  the  guidebook.  The 
advanced  student  will  find  much  to  interest  him  in  the  Gram - 
dtica  de  la  Lengua  Castellana,  published  by  the  Real  Academia 
Espanola , at  Madrid.  The  advantage  of  this,  as  well  as  of  the 
Spanish  Dictionary  published  by  the  same  academy,  is  that  it 
is  the  last  word  in  Spanish  orthography,  diction,  etc.  Both 
give  the  Castilian  lisp  in  the  pronunciation  of  c,  z,  and  the 
like,  but  this  can  be  remedied.  Perhaps  the  best  Spanish- 
English,  English-Spanish  Dictionary  at  present  on  the  market 
is  that  by  Arturo  Cuyas;  published  by  D.  Appleton  & Co. 


xxii  d 


PLAN  OF  TOUR 


The  author  of  this  guidebook  has  one  in  preparation  that  will 
contain  a host  of  Indian  terms  current  in  Spanish- America, 
and  not  to  be  found  in  any  existing  dictionary  printed  in  the 
English  language. 

The  traveller  will  do  well  to  learn  by  heart,  and  have  ready 
for  use,  certain  expressions  like  the  following: 


Good  morning  (sir),  madame  (miss) 
bue?ios  dias  (senor),  sehora  ( senorita ) 

How  do  you  do?  How  are  you? 
Icomo  estd  usted?  geo  mo  sigue  usted? 

How  have  you  been?  Hello! 

Icomo  le  ha  ido?  jhola! 

I am  very  glad  to  see  you 
tengo  mucho  gusto  en  verle 

By  your  leave ; with  your  permission 
con  permiso  de  usted 

I want.  I don’t  want  (it) 
quiero.  no  (Jo)  quiero 

Please  give  me  (one,  two,  three) 
favor  de  darme  ( uno , dos,  tres) 

Where  (is  it  — are  they)? 
idonde  ( estd  — estan )? 

Is  it  near?  far?  close? 
i estd  cerca?  glejosf  icerquito? 

I do  not  speak  Spanish 
yo  no  hablo  espahol 

I 'd  like  something  to  eat 
quisiera  algo  de  comer 

Money.  Silver.  Gold.  Paper 
diner  o.  plata.  oro.  papel 

Railway  station.  Street-car 
estacidn  de  ferrocarril.  tranvia 

Coffee.  Tea.  Milk.  Lemonade 
cafe.  te.  leche.  limonada 

Chocolate.  Beer.  Wine.  Drink. 
chocolate,  cerveza.  vino,  bebida 


Good  afternoon.  Good  night.  Good 
bye 

bue?ias  tardes.  buenas  noches.  ad  ids 

Pardon  me.  Permit  me.  Thank  you 
dispenseme.  permitatne.  gracias 

Thank  you  very  much.  Don’t  men- 
tion it 

un  millon  de  gracias.  no  hay  de  que 

It  does  n’t  matter.  I am  busy  now 
no  le  hace;  no  importa.  estoy  ocupado 

Kindly  do  me  the  favor  (to  tell  me) 
hdgame  usted  el  favor  (de  d&cirme ) 

Don’t  bother  me.  Get  out! 
no  me  moleste.  ivdyase! 

How  much?  How  much  is  it? 
gcudnto?  icudnto  cuesta? 

How  far  is  it  (from  here)  ? 
la  que  distancia  estd  (de  aqui )? 

Look  out!  Take  care!  icuidado! 
Good,  bueno;  bad,  malo;  dear,  caro 

I am  an  American.  I’m  English 
soy  americano.  soy  ingles 

Give  me  a glass  of  water 
ddme  un  vaso  de  agua 

Letter.  Stamp.  Newspaper.  Book 
carta,  estampilla.  periddico.  libro 

Hotel.  Restaurant.  Post-office 
hotel.  cafe.  correo 

Bread.  Butter.  Cheese.  Meat 
pan.  mantequiUa.  queso.  carne 


II.  Plan  of  Tour.  Seasons.  Climate.  Health.  What  to  Wear. 

Plan  of  Tour.  The  ideas  of  one  traveller  as  to  what  is 
and  is  not  worth  seeing  are  apt  to  be  so  widely  at  variance 
with  those  of  another  that  it  is  difficult,  if  not  impossible,  to 
plan  a tour  that  would  fulfil  the  requirements,  or  meet  with 
the  approval,  of  even  a limited  number  of  persons;  particu- 
larly in  the  case  of  a country  whose  attractions  are  so  numer- 
ous and  so  varied  as  are  those  of  Mexico.  Many  of  its  highly 
interesting  spots  lie  far  from  the  beaten  tracks. 

Planned  tours  are  apt  to  strike  the  methodical  traveller 
as  unsatisfactory : he  thinks  that  because  the  author  has  com- 
passed them  he  also  must,  in  order  to  see  the  country  and  its 


PLAN  OF  TOUR  xxiii 

people  properly  and  not  leave  them  feeling  that  he  has  not 
seen  them  as  he  should. 

Many  of  Mexico’s  great  attractions  are  the  work  of  pre- 
historic man,  and  modern  ingenuity  has  not  been  able  to  con- 
centrate them.  The  wonderful  ruined  cities  of  Yucatan,  which 
are  so  rarely  visited  and  are  so  little  known  to  the  outer  world, 
lie  more  than  a thousand  miles  southeast  of  the  Casas  Grandes, 
or  Big  Houses  of  Chihuahua  State,  yet  both  are  intensely 
interesting,  as  they  are  replete  with  records  in  plaster  and  in 
stone  of  perchance  the  first  Americans.  The  dead  cities  of 
Palenque,  buried  in  the  fastnesses  and  almost  impenetrable 
tropical  forests  of  the  State  of  Chiapas,  and  the  mute  palaces 
and  tombs  of  the  vanished  Zapotec  and  Mixtec  kings,  at 
Mitla,  in  Oaxaca,  are  likewise  full  of  an  interest  no  less  sus- 
tained than  that  of  the  stupendous  pre-Columbian  pyramids 
of  Papantla,  Cholula,  and  San  Juan  Teotihuacan. 

The  simple  fact  that  in  the  Mexican  Republic  63  languages 
and  dialects  are  spoken  — 52  of  them  by  Indians  whose  lin- 
guistic characteristics  are  perhaps  as  widely  different  as  those 
of  the  Hurons  and  the  Chinese  — proves  the  extended  range 
of  the  elements  that  unite  to  form  this  old  new  land.  Months 
can  be  spent  to  advantage  in  Mexico,  for  few  countries  pos- 
sess a greater  number  of  attractions.  The  archaeologist,  the 
botanist,  the  ornithologist,  the  ethnologist,  the  hunter,  and 
the  fisherman,  — for  Mexico  abounds  in  game,  and  the  tepid 
waters  of  the  two  oceans  which  lave  its  tropical  shores  teem 
with  fish,  — or  the  traveller  seeking  only  health,  sunshine, 
or  amusement,  will  find  the  nearly  perfect  summer  days  all 
too  short.  The  almost  matchless  climate  of  the  table-land 
charms  the  traveller  from  the  frigid  North,  and  the  multi- 
tudinous contrasts  are  his  sustained  delight.  Here  sky-pierc- 
ing volcanoes  rise  in  pointed  grandeur  from  tropical  surround- 
ings, and  the  eternal  snows  of  their  summits  look  down  in 
cold  silence  upon  fruit-laden  palms  basking  in  sempiternal 
sunshine.  At  times  the  entire  botanical  range  embraced  in 
the  frigid,  the  temperate,  and  the  torrid  zones  encompasses 
the  slopes  of  these  tropical  giants,  is  quickened  into  life  by 
their  internal  fires,  and  forms  contrasts  as  sharply  defined 
as  sun  and  shade.  Here  also  one  may  pass  in  a few  brief  hours 
from  the  cocoanut  groves  of  the  blistering  tierra  caliente , 
to  the  wind-swept  regions  of  eternal  ice,  through  various 
gradations  of  climate;  which,  oddlv  enough,  are  almost  within 
shouting  distance  of  one  another.  From  the  bleak  hill-regions, 
oftentimes  honeycombed  with  almost  fabulously  rich  mines, 
one  may  literally  look  down  upon  sheltered  winter  stations 
thousands  of  feet  below,  embowered  in  tropical  flowers  and 
swooning  in  a climate  of  perpetual  summer. 

While  many  travellers  will  be  content  to  share  the  life  in 
the  sustainedly  delightful  sea-shore  and  table-land  cities  and 


XXIV 


SEASONS 


the  beguiling  winter-resorts  which  lie  midway  between,  others 
will  be  attracted  to  the  charming  Lake  Regions  of  Chapala 
and  Patzcuaro,  to  the  awe-inspiring  Falls  of  Juanacatlan,  the 
roaring,  smoking  volcano  of  Colima,  the  writhing,  bubbling 
fumaroles  of  Jorullo,  the  thoroughly  quaint  old  Isthmian  city 
of  Tehuantepec  — with  its  strikingly  handsome  Burmese-like 
women  and  their  bizarre  costumes  — to  the  gigantic  Barranca 
de  Cobre  — which  is  “ painted  like  a flower,”  and  which  rivals 
in  size  and  beauty  the  wonderfully  gorgeous  Grand  Canon 
of  the  Colorado,  in  Arizona  < — or  to  the  labyrinthine  Cavern 
of  Cacahuamilpa  — a worthy  Latin-American  competitor  of 
Kentucky’s  Mammoth  Cave. 

Then  again,  few  great  cities  of  the  world  surpass  in  beauty 
or  offer  greater  and  more  entrancing  contrasts  than  Mexico 
City,  Montezuma’s  sometime  Aztec  metropolis,  poised  a mile 
and  a half  above  the  sea-level,  in  the  lovely  Valley  of  Mexico. 
Its  splendid  mediaeval  churches,  its  charming  women,  its 
various  Indian  tribes,  and  its  astonishingly  picturesque  cus- 
toms and  street  life  are  always  interesting.  Here  16th  cen- 
tury architecture  stands  side  bv  side  with  the  best  achieve- 
ments of  the  20th  century,  and  here  exist  many  beautiful 
relics  of  a civilization  that  throve  mayhap  in  the  early  twi- 
light of  time  — certainly  centuries  before  the  Pilgrims  sighted 
the  bleak  Massachusetts  shore. 

The  writer  will  therefore  present  in  this  Handbook  a com- 
prehensive description  of  every  place  of  importance  in  the 
country,  so  that  the  critical  traveller  may  select  that  which 
pleases  him  best;  just  as  he  would  were  he  in  a sumptuous 
hotel,  before  an  ample  table  covered  with  a select  repast.  For, 
after  all,  no  one  — not  even  he  of  the  extraordinary  appetite 
and  the  fathomless  capacity  — is  expected  to  go  through  the 
entire  menu,  and  the  tourist  may  gain  a very  fair  idea  of 
Mexico  and  the  Mexicans  without  travelling  to  every  part  of 
the  vast  Republic. 

Seasons.  Mexico  recognizes  two  distinct  seasons,  the  dry, 
el  estio,ov  estacion  de  las  secas  (Oct. -May),  and  the  rainy,  esta- 
cion de  las  lluvias  (June-Sept.).  The  birds  also  recognize  the 
latter,  and  they  contrive  to  hatch  out  their  young  and  have 
them  on  the  wing  before  the  rains,  which  would  drown  the 
fledgelings. 

In  the  tropics,  where  there  is  no  winter,  the  rains  define  the 
seasons.  A different  set  of  conditions  prevail  at  Orizaba,  Jalapa, 
and  certain  other  points  on  the  eastern  slopes  of  the  Cordil- 
leras. Here  the  wind-blown  clouds  from  the  Gulf  impinge  on 
the  cool  mountains,  and  precipitate  a sort  of  Scotch  mist  or 
drizzle,  which  oftentimes  develops  into  heavy  rainfall.  All 
“ dry-time”  signs  fail  in  this  region,  and  albeit  the  drenched 
inhabitants  pray  for  the  sun  to  shine  (comp.  p.  504),  it  does 


SEASONS 


XXV 


so  only  when  fine  weather  prevails  over  the  Gulf,  and  storm 
signals  along  the  Atlantic  coast  are  furled.  The  rainy  season  is 
the  healthiest  and  most  delightful.  Then  the  flowers  bloom, 
the  dust  is  laid,  the  microbes  are  drowned  out,  and  the  land  is 
as  fresh  and  sweet  as  spring  anywhere.  The  heat  of  almost 
every  day  is  tempered  by  a shower,  and  although  threatening 
thunder-storms  are  features  of  certain  sections,  Mexico  is, 
on  the  whole,  more  charming  than  in  the  so-called  winter 
season. 

The  close  of  the  rainy  season  corresponds  with  the  autumnal 
equinox  of  the  north  of  the  U.  S.  A.  At  this  time  vegetation  is 
at  its  best ; the  harvest  of  fruits  and  grains  is  ready  to  garner, 
and  the  migratory  birds  begin  to  arrive  from  the  North.  Count- 
less thousands  of  ducks,  geese,  plover,  and  other  birds  spread 
over  the  country,  betaking  themselves  to  the  lakes  and 
marshes  (comp.  p.  lxxvii),  where  they  afford  abundant  food 
for  the  natives  and  much  sport  for  the  hunters. 

The  Mexicans  have  a proverb  which  says : “ Febrero  loco , 
porque  de  todo  tiene  un  poco ” (Feb.  is  a fool  month:  it  has 
a little  of  every  kind  of  weather) ; but  this  does  not  always 
hold  good.  Neither  does  the  statement  of  a caustic  writer  to 
the  effect  that  the  Mex.  seasons  are:  Tres  meses  de  agua , tres 

meses  de  polvo , tres  meses  de  lodo  y tres  meses  de  todo” — 3 
months  of  rain,  3 of  dust,  3 of  mud,  and  3 of  all  combined. 

It  is  the  custom  for  travellers  to  regard  Mexico  as  purely  a 
winter  resort,  and  the  greatest  influx  of  visitors  is  between 
November  and  March.  The  average  Mexico  City  resident  con- 
siders summer  the  most  attractive  season.  Then  the  city  is 
cleanest  and  the  death  rate  lowest.  Sometime  during  each 
summer  day,  dense  masses  of  black  clouds  gather  about  the 
mountain-tops  and  release  torrents  of  cooling  and  cleansing 
water  over  the  city.  The  quick  downpours  scrub  the  streets 
and  flush  the  sewers.  The  showers  are  usually  of  short  dura- 
tion, and  they  cause  little  or  no  inconvenience.  The  dryness  of 
the  air  renders  the  soil  like  a huge  blotting-paper,  and  evapora- 
tion is  so  rapid  that  the  streets  are  often  dry  a few  minutes 
after  the  rains  cease.  Under  the  stimulus  of  the  water  and  the 
sun,  plant  life  springs  fresh  from  every  nook  and  crevice,  and 
each  tiny  garden  is  converted  into  a tropical  hortus.  Toward 
the  close  of  the  wet  season  the  rains  usually  come  at  night, 
and  the  mornings  which  follow  are  unquestionably  the  most 
beautiful  of  the  year.  The  atmosphere  is  deliciously  crisp  and 
sweet,  with  a cool  tang  and  a suggestion  of  electric  vigor  in  it. 
If  the  sun  rises  behind  a cloud,  it  soon  burns  its  way  through, 
and  even  during  the  rainy  season  one  may  plan  a morning  ex- 
cursion with  almost  a certainty  of  fine  weather.  As  a rule  the 
traveller  may  count  upon  a succession  of  clear,  cloudless  days 
throughout  the  winter  season.  The  longest  day  of  the  year  at 
Mexico  City  is  13  hrs.;  the  shortest  11  hrs.  See  Climate. 


XXVI 


CLIMATE 


Climate.  The  odd  physical  configuration  of  Mexico  gives  it 
many  temperatures  and  three  distinct  climates,  all,  curiously 
enough,  within  a very  few  hours’  ride  of  one  another. 

The  relaxing  tierra  caliente  (hot  land)  begins  at  the  sea- 
coast  and  extends  inward  and  upward  to  an  altitude  of  about 
3,000  ft.,  where  the  air  is  usually  delightful,  with  a yearly 
average  temperature  of  80°-88°  Fahr.  and  an  extreme  of  100°- 
105°.  The  best-known  towns  lying  along  this  littoral  are 
Merida  (p.  574),  Vera  Cruz  (p.  469),  Campeche  (p.  569),  and 
Tampico , on  the  Gulf,  and  Guaymas  (p.  78),  Mazatlan  (p.  90), 
Manzanillo  (p.  188 ),  Acapulco  (p.  460),  and  Salina  Cruz  on  the 
Pacific.  The  winter  climate  (Dec.-Feb.)  of  these  places  is  ad- 
mirable — like  early  May  days  in  the  Central  U.  S.  A.  — but 
broken,  at  intervals,  by  furious  nortes  (p.  471) , which  lower  the 
temperature  and  chill  the  marrow  of  the  thin-blooded  inhab- 
itants. Oddly  enough,  the  summer  “ dog-days  ” ( caniculares ) in 
Vera  Cruz  or  Guaymas  never  scorch  or  stew  one  as  do  the 
“sizzards  ” of  New  York.  The  cool  land  breeze  which  blows 
seaward  in  the  a.  m.  and  returns  at  nightfall  laden  with  salted 
ozone  and  coolness  makes  life  in  tropical,  white-clad  Vera 
Cruz,  for  example,  with  its  palms  and  balconies  and  long  mid- 
day siestas,  far  more  supportable  than  in  New  York  with  its 
houses  like  huge  furnaces  and  its  heat-radiating  streets. 

The  tierra  templada  (temperate  land)  lies  between  3,200  and 
6,500  ft.,  with  an  average  all  the  year  temperature  of  73°-77° 
Fahr. ; the  variation  during  a season  may  not  be  more  than  6° 
or  8°.  The  finest  of  the  Mexican  climates  is  found  between 
these  elevations.  The  immunity  from  heavy  frosts  is  as  com- 
plete as  that  from  extreme  humidity,  noxious  insects,  and 
sudden  temperature  changes.  Dryness  is  the  emphatic  qual- 
ity, with  freedom  in  the  dry  season  (Oct.-May)  from  malaria 
and  a perpetual  exemption  from  the  keen,  cold  winds  of  the 
higher  altitudes  and  the  hygienic  deficiencies  of  the  maritime 
regions.  Semi-tropical  products  thrive  side  by  side  with  those 
of  the  tropics,  and  there  are  farms  where  wheat  and  sugar- 
cane grow  almost  within  touch  of  each  other.  Certain  of  the 
towns  in  this  favored  zone  are  natural,  open-air  sanitariums, 
and  the  warm,  still  days  and  cool,  sleepful  nights  are  tonics 
which  bring  many  a sufferer  (particularly  from  tuberculosis) 
back  to  health.  One  of  these  health  stations  is  Guadalajara 
(p.  161),  with  an  almost  perfect  climate  aptly  described  as 
“June  with  October  touches.”  Other  towns  in  this  land  of 
eternal  spring,  noted  for  a climate  particularly  suited  to  in- 
valids fearsome  of  quick  temperature  changes,  are  Orizaba 
(p.  489),  Oaxaca  (p.  528).  Cuauhila  (p.  466),  Cuernavaca  (p. 
436),  etc.  The  latter  place  is  celebrated  for  its  attractive 
hotels ; as  being  one  of  the  most  favored  winter  stations  north 
of  the  Equator ; and  for  some  of  the  finest  views  in  the  Repub- 
lic. It  is  unusually  free  from  cold  waves  (o?idas  frias)  and  from 


HEALTH 


xxvii 


brusque  climatic  changes.  The  gradation  of  the  seasons  is  so 
gentle  that  the  trees  take  on  their  new  spring  leaves  while 
still  green  with  the  verdure  of  the  old  year. 

The  tierra  fria  (cold  country)  — cold  only  in  comparison  to 
the  heat  at  the  coast  — rises  above  the  6,500  ft.  level  and  ex- 
tends to  snow-line  (12,460  ft.  in  the  tropics);  above  this  the 
thermometer  often  sinks  below  freezing-point.  The  average 
temperature  of  the  alleged  tierra  fria  is  59°-62°  Fahr.  with 
slight  changes  except  in  winter,  when  a norte  may  bring  a 
light  snowfall  to  Mexico  City  and  topple  the  mercury  down  to 
30°  or  40°.  In  Toluca  and  the  high  mountain  towns,  the  ther- 
mometer has  been  known  to  register  20°.  The  rainfall  in  this 
region  is  only  one  fifth  as  much  as  that  of  the  temperate  zone. 
In  the  sunny  pockets  and  sheltered  valleys  of  the  tierra  fria 
the  vegetation  is  often  quite  luxuriant. 

Plants  will  grow  on  the  southern  side  of  a mountain  which 
has  snow  on  the  opposite  side.  The  sky  over  all  the  zones  is 
noted  for  its  unrivalled  blue,  and  on  any  winter  day  he  who 
seeks  the  sun  in  the  morning  will  seek  the  shadows  at  noon. 
From  the  elevated  mountain  peaks  one  may  look  down  past 
the  temperate  to  the  torrid  zone;  from  the  frozen  cone  of  some 
volcano  to  the  warm  waters  of  the  Gulf,  embracing  in  one  view 
all  that  class  of  vegetation  which  thrives  between  the  Arctic 
Ocean  and  the  Equator. 

The  climate  of  Mexico  City  is  usually  mild,  but  exhilarat- 
ing; ranging  during  the  year  from  35°  to  75°  Fahr.  with  a 
mean  temperature  of  65°.  Excepting  in  the  winter,  its  great- 
est variations  are  generally  between  day  and  night  on  the 
same  day.  The  tropical  heat  of  the  latitude  is  tempered  by 
the  altitude.  Throughout  the  year  the  nights  are  delightfully 
cool,  and  a pair  of  heavy  blankets  are  always  requisite  to  com- 
fortable sleep.  During  the  short  winter  (Dec.-Feb.)  the  tem- 
perature is  apt  to  be  affected  by  the  northers  which  blow 
down  the  Gulf.  These  monsoons  of  the  western  hemisphere 
sometimes  precipitate  light  snowfalls  or  hail-storms  in  the 
capital,  but  the  snow  vanishes  with  the  first  touch  of  sunshine. 
Rarely  a winter  day  passes  without  some  sunshine,  and  then 
one  instinctively  seeks  the  shady  side  of  the  street. 

The  altitude  is  unsuitable  for  snakes,  scorpions,  and  similar 
reptilia.  It  affects  culinary  operations,  and  recipes  which  give 
good  results  at  sea-level  have  to  be  adjusted  to  suit  the  ele- 
vation. Food  values  decrease  by  one-third,  it  is  said. 

Health.  Mexico  is  as  healthy  as  any  country  similarly 
situated  (comp.  Population,  p.  lx).  The  table-land,  or 
Central  Plateau,  is  unusually  salubrious,  and  the  natives 
sometimes  reach  an  extreme  old  age.  The  intelligent  traveller 
always  takes  certain  precautions  to  guard  against  diseases 
prevalent  where  sanitary  devices  and  hygienic  methods  are 


HEALTH 


xxviii 

lacking,  and  similar  measures  should  be  adopted  while  in  cer- 
tain of  the  Mexican  towns  — chiefly  in  the  hot  lowlands.  The 
one-time  great  scourges  of  tropical  Mexico,  yellow  fever  (fiebre 
amarillo)  and  cholera  (colera),  have  been  permanently  eradi- 
cated, but  some  of  the  coastal  towns  are  not  always  free  from 
malaria  ( calenturas , malaria)  and  typhoid  ( fiebre  tifoidea). 
Typhus  ( tifo ) is  sometimes  met  with,  and  is  usually  traceable 
to  indiscreet  eating  or  drinking.  Every  town  prides  itself  on 
possessing  the  “best”  water,  and  certain  of  the  old  residents 
will  refer  to  their  robustness  and  attribute  it  to  never  having 
drunk  a gill  of  boiled  water  in  their  lives.  The  observant  trav- 
eller, cognizant  of  the  goodly  number  of  worthy  townspeople 
tucked  away  in  the  local  campc  santo , will  continue  to  use  care, 
particularly  in  places  where  statistics  relating  to  mortality, 
drainage,  water-supply,  and  so  forth  are  unfamiliar  to  him. 

The  low  class  natives  and  servants  generally  are  igno- 
rant of  the  fundamental  principles  of  hygiene,  and  tourists 
should  bear  this  in  mind  constantly  when  dealing  with  them. 
The  visitor  who  samples  wayside  drinks  and  dishes  because  of 
their  novelty  exhibits  more  confidence  in  native  methods  than 
would  an  old  resident  of  the  country.  Hotels  in  Mexico  will 
always  provide  boiled  milk  when  it  is  asked  for.  It  is  an 
excellent  rule  never  to  drink  unboiled  milk,  or  water  that  has 
not  been  boiled  or  filtered  — unless  one  knows  them  to  be 
pure.  Artesian  water  is  much  used  in  Mexico  City,  where 
many  drink  it  just  as  it  comes  from  the  well.  The  purest  water 
is  sometimes  contaminated  by  being  stored  in  huge  tanks  on 
the  house  roofs  and  left  uncovered  and  exposed  to  air,  dust 
and  insects.  This  is  a common  practice  in  Mexico  City. 

In  places  where  the  water-supply  is  notoriously  bad,  careful 
persons  drink  a certain  beverage  produced  at  Orizaba  as  it  is 
said  to  be  made  of  the  unusually  pure  mountain  water  with 
which  Orizaba  is  favored.  The  water  in  the  mountainous 
regions  is  usually  purer  than  that  of  the  coastal  districts. 

It  is  imprudent  to  sleep  without  a mosquito-net  ( mosqui - 
ter  a)  in  a mosquito  district.  A few  big  safety-pins  with  which 
to  unite  gaping  mosquito  curtains  are  sometimes  worth  their 
weight.  A bottle  of  flea-powder  is  useful  anywhere  in  the 
Republic.  If  your  visit  includes  a trip  to  the  tierra  calierte, 
a bottle  of  carbolic  acid  will  often  render  sleep  possible  by 
counteracting  the  unpleasant  odors  arising  from  open  drains. 

The  Mexican  tropical  fruits  are  legion.  They  are  oftentimes 
delicious,  but  strangers  will  do  well  to  eat  sparingly  of  un- 
familiar specimens  until  they  become  acquainted  with  their 
after  effects.  Unwashed  ground  fruits  and  vegetables  — straw’- 
berries,  lettuce,  and  the  like  — should  not  be  eaten.  The  In- 
dian gardeners  are  usually  as  innocent  of  ideas  of  hygiene  as 
are  the  cooks  who  prepare  the  vegetables  for  the  table  (native 
cooks  often  mix  the  salads  and  oils  with  their  fingers,  and 


HEALTH 


XXIX 


they  have  been  known  to  spit  in  a frying-pan  to  see  if  it  were 
hot  enough) , and  as  the  truck  gardens  are  usually  fertilized 
with  unspeakable  filth  — and  sometimes  irrigated  with  un- 
clean water  — the  product  is  apt  to  be  contaminated.  The 
Mexican  pottery  water-bottle  is  a pernicious  conductor  of  ty- 
phoid. The  small  neck  will  not  permit  of  the  bottle  being 
washed  properly;  when  broken,  old  bottles  are  found  to  be 
coated  on  the  inside  with  green  slime,  just  as  would  any  closed 
and  unwashed  filter.  The  bottles  render  the  water  cool  but 
microbic.  A rubber  hot-water  bottle  should  form  a part  of 
every  traveller’s  outfit.  In  the  higher  altitudes  they  are  use- 
ful in  cases  of  chest  colds  and  slight  congestions.  It  is  very 
advisable  to  be  vaccinated  before  starting  for  Mexico. 

In  Mexico  City  pulmonary  and  bowel  troubles  form  the  larg- 
est items  in  the  mortality  list.  This  need  cause  the  traveller 
no  uneasiness  if  he  exercises  the  caution  requisite  to  healthful- 
ness in  any  climate.  The  altitude  and  the  rarefied  air  renders 
the  taking  of  colds  easy,  but  if  the  cold  is  attended  to  at  once, 
no  evil  results  follow.  A head  cold  is  regarded  as  lightly  as 
elsewhere,  but  should  it  settle  on  the  lungs  no  time  should  be 
lost  in  adopting  rigorous  measures  for  its  eradication.  At  high 
altitudes  pneumonia  (the  disease  most  dreaded  by  Mexicans) 
develops  quicker  than  in  the  lowlands  and  often  terminates 
fatally.  At  the  bare  suspicion  of  pneumonia  the  patient  should 
immediately  seek  a lower  level.  Cuauhtla  (p.  466)  and  Cuer- 
navaca (p.  436)  are  considered  the  health  stations  of  Mexico 
City.  Avoid  sleeping  or  living  in  rooms  on  the  ground  floor. 
If  the  room  be  dark,  damp,  and  cold  it  is  trebly  dangerous.  A 
room  in  which  the  purifying  rays  of  the  sun  do  not  enter  for 
at  least  one  hour  during  the  day  is  not  healthy  — particularly 
for  weak  lungs.  Avoid  the  thin,  cold,  night  air  as  much  as  pos- 
sible. The  unacclimated  should  avoid  going  out  in  the  evening 
without  a light  overcoat  or  wrap  to  guard  against  sudden  tem- 
perature changes.  Mexico  City  physicians  say  winter  under- 
wear should  not  be  changed  for  that  of  lighter  weight  till  the 
last  of  April  — albeit  spring  begins  March  20th  in  the  Valiev 
of  Mexico.  At  high  levels  the  difference  of  temperature  be 
tween  sunlight  and  shadow  is  marked,  and  to  become  over- 
heated and  then  sit  in  the  shade  to  cool  off  is  perilous. 
Breathing  through  the  nostrils,  instead  of  through  the  mouth, 
is  the  surest  way  to  prevent  taking  cold  on  the  Mex.  table-land 
— or  elsewhere.  Statistics  show  that  the  greatest  mortality 
in  Mexico  City  (52  per  thousand)  is  among  young  children 
(the  uncared-for),  the  unhygienic,  and  the  intemperate. 

An  excellent  safeguard  against  diarrhoea  and  allied  ills  pecul- 
iar to  high  altitudes  and  hot  countries  is  a woollen  band  worn 
around  the  stomach.  This  prevents  the  sudden  chill  which  is 
the  side  partner  of  cholera  and  dysentery.  Similar  bands 
(called  cholera-bands)  are  worn  in  many  cholera  countries. 


XXX 


WHAT  TO  WEAR 


Sun  baths  at  high  altitudes  are  delightful  but  not  always 
wholesome : they  exhilarate  certain  constitutions  and  poison 
others  — particularly  those  predisposed  to  malaria.  In  ele- 
vated districts  the  golden  rays  of  the  sun  possess  a subtle 
banefulness  which  sometimes  produce  curious  disorders. 
Their  malignant  action  reminds  one  of  the  mysterious  effects 
of  X-rays.  After  hours  of  exercise  in  the  sun  at  high  altitudes 
strong  men  have  been  known  to  faint,  without  apparent 
cause.  The  nerves  of  the  most  phlegmatic  will  sometimes 
twitter  and  become  jangled,  and  the  eyesight  is  occasionally 
disturbed.  Then  neurasthenia  steps  in  and  the  small  perplex- 
ities of  life  assume  gigantic  proportions.  A few  days  spent  at 
a lower  level  corrects  these  disorders.  They  can  be  avoided 
by  wearing  the  broad-brimmed  Mexican  sombrero  — becoming 
to  men  and  women  alike.  Stomach  and  nervous  troubles  often 
reach  one  through  tired  eyes,  long  exposed  to  the  sun’s  glare, 
and  travellers  touring  the  Republic  cannot  do  better  than  to 
invest  in  a straw  sombrero  (cost  20  c.-$l)  or  blue  goggles. 

What  to  Wear.  For  the  cities  of  the  Mexican  Plateau 
spring  clothing  is  necessary  for  the  young  and  warm-blooded, 
and  winter  outfits  or  heavy  outer  wraps  for  the  elderly  person 
of  sluggish  circulation.  On  the  table-land  the  sunny  days  are 
always  warm,  but  the  shadows  and  nights  are  cool.  During  the 
“ rainy  season”  (June-Sept.)  certain  of  the  days  are  like  Octo- 
ber days  in  New  England  — warm  at  noon,  but  harbingers  of 
winter  when  the  twilight  shadows  gather.  After  sundown  and 
before  sun-up  a spring  overcoat  ( sobretodo ) or  some  kind  of  a 
wrap  is  desirable.  This  is  particularly  applicable  to  Mexico 
City  and  other  places  of  a like  altitude,  as  the  keen,  cold  winds 
which  sometimes  blowT  are  not  beneficial  to  the  invalid  thinly 
clad.  It  can  be  accepted  as  a safe  axiom  that  summer  clothing 
is  always  out  of  place  in  Mexico  City.  In  the  coastal  towns 
the  very  thinnest  clothing  is  acceptable. 

In  the  towns  near  the  5,000  feet  level,  such  as  Guadalajara , 
San  Luis  Potosi,  Torreon,  Monterey , Puebla,  Cuernavaca , and 
so  on,  the  summer  outfit  should  be  increased  by  the  addition 
of  a light  overcoat  and  medium  weight  underwear,  for  the  cool 
nights  and  winter  days,  as  the  traveller  should  be  especially 
on  his  guard  against  chills  and  colds.  Underwear  and  such 
clothing  can  be  purchased  (usually  of  European  make)  in 
Mexico  cheaper,  as  a rule,  than  in  the  United  States.  Most  of 
the  cities  possess  attractive  shops  (comp.  p.  lxix),  where  Euro- 
pean and  American  productions  can  be  bought  at  reasonable 
prices.  Sealskin  coats  are  unnecessary  in  Mexico;  unless  the 
owner  of  one  of  these  obtains  a permit  when  leaving  the  U.  S. 
A.,  customs  duty  is  apt  to  be  levied  on  the  return.  Ladies  will 
find  a dust-bag  for  hats  a useful  adjunct  when  travelling  by 
rail  in  certain  parts  of  the  Republic. 


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RAILWAYS  — FERROCARRILES  xxxi 

Cool  off  before  entering  churches,  particularly  those  of  the 
highlands,  which  are  always  chilly.  The  courteous  Mexican 
realizes  the  marked  difference  in  temperature  between  the 
sunlit  street  and  the  cool  houses,  and  the  visitor  is  usually  re- 
quested to  keep  his  hat  on  ( cubrese  usted)  until  the  danger 
of  contracting  a cold  is  passed. 

III.  Railways.  Steamships.  Tramways.  Diligences.  Auto- 
mobiles. Horses.  Burros.  Highways. 

The  Railways  ( ferrocarriles  or  caminos  de  hierro),  most 
of  which  are  under  Government  control,  are  excellent,  well 
managed,  and  remarkably  safe.  Trains  are  run  at  reasonable 
speed  and  accidents  are  rare.  Each  year  adds  to  the  extensive 
mileage,  and  to  comfort,  equipment,  and  safety. 

Railway  Fares  (which  are  subject  to  change)  vary  slightly 
according  to  the  distance  (which  is  measured  in  kildmetros  — 
see  p.  xlvi).  Long  distance  rates  are  cheaper  than  local  rates. 

First  Class  Fares  ( boletos  de  primera  clase ) are  (approxi- 
mately) 5 c.  a kilom .;  2d  cl.  ( segunda  clase)  2 c.;  25  per  cent 
more  if  fares  are  paid  on  trains.  To  figure  the  cost  of  a journey 
multiply  the  distance  by  the  rate  per  kilom.  Or  consult  the 
booklet  or  Itinerario  issued  by  the  National  Lines;  it  quotes 
fares  between  the  chief  points  in  Mexico,  along  with  other 
information  of  value.  Likewise  the  Guia  Oficial  de  Ferroca- 
rriles y Vapores  de  la  Republica  Mexicana,  issued  monthly, 
and  for  sale  on  trains  and  at  all  the  Sonora  News  Co.’s  stores. 

Children  under  3 years  of  age,  when  accompanied  by  older 
persons,  are  carried  free:  between  3 and  7 years,  half  fare;  over 
7,  full  fare. 

Ticket  Offices  ( expendios  or  despachos  de  boletos)  are  open 
one-half  hour  before  the  departure  of  trains.  There  is  apt  to 
be  a crush  just  prior  to  train  time. 

Excursion  Tickets  ( boletos  para  Irenes  de  recreo)  will  generally 
save  the  traveller  money  when  the  dates  suit  his  convenience. 

Ticket  Scalpers  do  not  operate  in  Mexico,  where  the  laws 
are  averse  to  them.  Travellers  may  like  to  be  reminded  that 
the  law  provides  a heavy  penalty  for  one  who  sells  an  unused 
portion  of  a personal  rly.  ticket,  or  uses  one  made  out  in  the 
name  of  another. 

Pullman  Car  ( Pullman , or  coche  dormitorio)  Fares  (also  sub- 
ject to  change)  are  (approx.)  1 \ c.  a kilom.  for  a lower  berth 
(cama  baja)f  and  20  per  cent  less  for  an  upper  ( cama  alta). 

Cars  ( carros , coches).  The  2d  class  cars  ( coches  de  segunda 
clase)  are  generally  filled  with  the  proletariat  and  are  not 
liked  by  foreigners.  Ladies  should  not  be  taken  into  them. 

Railway  Restaurants  ( fondas ),  where  table-d'hote  meals 
are  ready  for  the  traveller,  are  to  be  found  at  nearly  all  rly. 


XXXI 1 


RAILWAYS  — FERROCARRILES 


junctions  ( empalmes ) and  large  towns  (pueblos  grandes  or 
ciudades).  Trains  usually  stop  25  min.  Certain  of  these 
fondas  (thej^  vary  with  the  management)  are  excellent;  others 
leave  much  to  be  desired.  The  thoughtful  traveller  will  bear 
in  mind  that  about  90%  of  the  travel  is  native,  and  that 
Mexicans  would  not  be  justified  in  expecting  to  find  their 
favorite  dishes  at  rly.  eating-houses  in  the  U.  S.  A.  There  are 
usually  compensations  for  the  bad  places;  at  certain  of  the 
good  ones  delicious  strawberries,  wild  fowl  (in  the  lake  regions), 
venison,  aromatic  honey,  excellent  fish,  good  dairy-products, 
eggs  and  chicken,  and  many  delightful  fruits  and  native 
sweets  are  served  throughout  the  year.  Those  who  prefer  to 
eat  in  a more  leisurely  fashion  are  recommended  to  seek  the 
Pullman  buffet  and  grill  found  on  most  trains. 

Luggage  Regulations:  Baggage  weights  are  computed  in 
kilogrammes  (p.  xlvi),  and  trunks  weighing  more  than  115 
kilos,  are  apt  to  be  rejected.  The  usual  allowance  with  one 
first-class  ticket  is  50  kilos.  (110  lbs.),  albeit  on  through  tickets 
(between  points  in  Mexico  and  the  U.  S.  A.)  68  kilos.  (150  lbs.) 
are  allowed.  Excess  baggage  ( exceso ) is  charged  for  according 
to  distance,  the  usual  rate  being  about  2 c.  per  100  kilogrammes 
per  kilometre.  Hand-bags  ( petacas  de  mano) ; steamer-chairs 
(sillas  para  vapor ) ; rifles  ( rifles ) ; bicycles  (bidcletas) ; tool- 
chests  (herramientos) ; saddles  (sillas  para  montar) ; photo- 
graphic instruments  (instrumentos  fotogrdficos) , and  articles  of 
a like  nature  are  accepted  as  regular  luggage  and  are  checked. 
Thin  paper  or  cardboard  slips  are  generally  used  as  checks 
(talones)  and  for  the  sake  of  accuracy,  and  to  avoid  delays, 
the  traveller  should  see  personally  that  the  numbers  on  these 
slips  correspond  to  those  on  his  trunks  (baules)  or  bundles 
(b  ultos). 

The  National  Railways  of  Mexico  (Ferrocamles  Nadonales 
de  Mexico,  Rte.  1,  p.  1)  start  from  Laredo,  at  the  N.-E., 
and  link  the  frontier  and  the  capital;  passing  through  the 
large  cities  of  Monterey  (p.  5),  Saltillo  (p.  12),  San 
Luis  Potosi  (p.  17),  Quer^taro  (p.  109),  etc.  Under  this 
management  is  the  Ferrocarril  Interoceanico  (pp.  461- 
499),  the  Mexican  Southern,  and  the  (formerly)  Mexican 
Central  (see  below).  Also  the  F.  C.  Hidalgo  y Nordeste 
and  the  F.  C.  Internacional  Mexican o (Eagle  Pass  Ruute), 
which  latter  runs  from  the  frontier  town  of  Piedras  Negras 
to  Durango  (p.  100).  Branch  lines  connect  the  capital  with 
Toluca  (p.  194);  Morelia  (p.  202);  the  beautiful  lake  region 
of  Patzcuaro  (p.  209) ; and  the  fine  coffee-growing  district  of 
Uruapan  (p.  227). 

That  section  of  the  National  Lines  which  connects  Mon- 
terey (and  Tampico)  with  Matamoros,  and  Brownsville, 
Texas,  in  the  Lower  Rio  Grande  Valley,  one  of  the  most 
prominent  of  the  Gateways  to  Mexico,  and  destined  to  enjoy 


RAILWAYS  — FERROCARRILES  xxxiii 

a remarkable  development  (comp.  p.  50;)  is  referred  to  in 
detail  at  p.  12. 

The  (sometime)  Mexican  Central  Railway  (Rte.  6,  p.  22), 
now  a part  (El  Paso  Route)  of  the  National  Railways  of 
Mexico,  runs  from  El  Paso,  Texas,  and  traverses  a highly 
interesting  region;  touching  the  table-land  cities  of  Chihuahua 
(p.  25);  Torreon  (p.  35);  Zacatecas  (p.  38);  Aguasca- 
lientes  (p.  45);  Leon  (p.  124);  Guanajuato  (p.  137); 
Celaya  (p.  127);  Queretaro  (p.  109);  and,  by  branch  lines, 
the  Lake  Region  of  Chapala  (p.  152) ; Guadalajara  (p.  161); 
Colima  (p.  185);  Manzanillo  (p.  188);  Tampico  (p.  48),  etc. 
The  Cuernavaca  Division  (Rte.  45,  p.  432)  carries  the  trav- 
eller to  sheltered  winter  stations  where  cold  is  unknown,  where 
perennial  flowers  deck  the  summer  gardens,  where  Spanish 
churches,  palacios,  and  snow-capped  volcanoes  are  features  in 
the  magnificent  views,  and  where  the  land  is  one  of  eternal 
spring. 

The  Mexican  Railway  ( F . C.  Mexicano),  Rte.  52,  p.  484, 
links  Mexico  City  (p.  232)  with  the  coast  at  Vera  Cruz 
(p.  469)  and  passes  through  the  cities  of  Orizaba  (p.  489) 
and  Cordoba  (p.  486).  The  scenery  along  this  route  ranks 
with  the  finest  on  the  continent. 

The  Mexican  Southern  Railway  ( F . C.  Mexicano  del 
Sur ),  Rte.  59,  p.  523,  connects  Puebla  (p.  508)  with  Oaxaca 
(p.  528),  and  brings  the  traveller  to  the  Ruins  of  Mitla 
(p.  534) , — some  of  the  finest  relics  extant  of  the  first  Ameri- 
cans. The  Vera  Cruz  & Isthmus  Railway  (F.  C.  Vera  Cruz 
al  Istmo),  Rte.  62,  p.  544,  traverses  a beautiful  semi-tropical 
country  between  Cordoba , on  the  Mexican  Rly.,  and  Santa 
Lucrecia  (p.  550)  on  the  Isthmian  Route.  The  Tehuan- 
tepec National  Railway  ( F . C.  Nacional  de  Tehuantepec, 
called  also  the  Ruta  del  Istmo  Mexicano) , Rte.  63,  p.  550, 
destined  to  be  one  of  the  world’s  most  celebrated  lines,  is 
described  at  p.  557.  The  Pan-American  Railway  (F.  C. 
P an- Americano) , Rte.  64,  which  leaves  the  Isthmian  Rly.  at 
San  Ger6nimo  station  and  penetrates  to  Guatemala,  is  de- 
scribed at  p.  558. 

The  Ferrocarriles  Unidos  de  Yucatan  ( United  Rlys.  of 
Y.)  are  referred  to  at  p.  573. 

The  Kansas  City,  Mexico  & Orient  Railway  (Rte.  13,  p.  56) 
penetrates  Mexico  at  Presidio  del  Norte,  traverses  the  rich 
section  of  Chihuahua  State,  crosses  the  productive  State 
of  Sinaloa  and  has  for  its  Pacific  Terminus  (467  M.) 
Topolobampo,  destined  to  be  one  of  the  greatest  of  the  West 
Coast  Ports.  The  scenery  along  the  line  ranks  with  the  finest 
in  the  Americas.  The  country  traversed  by  the  Rly.  is 
enormously  rich  and  practically  undeveloped. 

The  Southern  Pacific  Railway  ( Ferrocarril  Sud  Pacifico) 


XXXIV 


STEAMSHIP  LINES  TO  MEXICO 


of  Mexico  (Rte.  19,  p.  74)  starts  from  Nogales,  Arizona,  at 
the  N.-W.,  touches  at  Hermosillo  (p.  77),  Guaymas  (p.  78), 
and  continues  southward  through  Sinaloa  and  Nayarit  to 
ports  and  cities  on  the  West  Coast.  Its  destination  is  the  fine 
Jaliscan  city  of  Guadalajara,  described  at  p.  162. 

The  Mexico  North-Western  Railway  (Rte.  12,  p.  51)  starts 
from  Ciudad  Juarez  and  runs  to  the  Sierra  Madre  district, 
in  the  State  of  Chihuahua. 

There  are  many  minor  lines  (consult  the  Guia  Oficial)  and 
the  system  {red)  grows  almost  daily. 

Among  the  expressions  that  the  railway  traveller  will  find  convenient 
to  understand  are  the  following: 

! Vamonos!  — All  aboard! 

V einticinco  minutos  para  comer  — Twenty-five  minutes  for  refreshments. 
Aqui  se  cavibia  — We  change  cars  here. 

El  tren  estd  atrasado  — The  train  is  late. 

Llegara  a tiempo  — It  will  arrive  on  time. 

Llega  tarde  — It  is  late.  Anden  — Station-platform. 

Conductor  — Conductor.  Garrotero  — Brakeman. 

A genie  de  publicaciones  — Newsboy.  Maquinista  — Engineer. 

Camarista  del  Carro  Pullman  — Pullman-porter. 

iCuantos  minuios  para  el  tren  aqui?  — How  long  does  the  train  stop  here? 
iEn  que  estacion  hay  restaurant?  — At  what  station  is  there  a lunch-room? 


How  to  reach  Mexico  from  the  United  States. 

From  New  York.  Few  ocean  voyages  of  the  world  excel  in 
picturesqueness  and  abiding  charm  the  delightful  trip  from 
New  York  City  to  the  tropical  Bahamas,  to  brilliant,  historic 
Cuba  in  the  Greater  Antilles,  over  West  Indian  waters  to  the 
Peninsula  of  Yucatan  with  its  strange  and  beautiful  ruins, 
thence  onward  to  somnolent  Vera  Cruz,  and  Tampico  in  the 
centre  of  the  greatest  oil  producing  region  of  the  world. 

The  quaint,  colorful  streets  of  British  Colonial  Nassau 
(where  Ward  Line  ships  call  during  the  season),  the  splendid, 
unfading  glories  of  Spanish  Habana,  and  the  wonderful  rec- 
ords in  stone  of  the  lost  Maya  civilization  of  Yucatan,  are 
features  of  a voyage  as  great  in  its  extremes  as  it  is  in  its  pleas- 
ure. Smooth  seas,  lazy  summer  winds,  ungrudging  sunshine 
and  the  bizarre  and  unfamiliar  sights  and  sounds  of  tropical 
places  mark  this  voyage,  which  daily  becomes  more  popular 
with  the  travelling  public. 

The  fine,  big,  fast,  splendidly  appointed  ships  (perfect  to 
the  smallest  detail;  large,  airy  cabins,  good  food,  attentive 
service)  of  the  New  York  & Cuba  Mail  Steamship  Co.  (the 
Ward  Line)  leave  New  York  City  at  frequent  intervals  (con- 
sult the  folders  of  the  company)  from  the  foot  of  Wall  St. 
(Main  office  hard  by)  for  (942  M.  — 3 days,  fare  $44  to  $91) 
Nassau:  (1170  M.  — 4 days,  fare  $43  to  $100  according  to 
the  ship  and  accommodations)  Habana:  (1580  M.  — 6 days, 
fare  $50  to  $120)  Progreso,  in  Yucatan:  (1973  M.  — 9 days, 
fare  $54  to  $132)  Vera  Cruz;  and  (1995  M. — 9-10  days, 


STEAMER  LINES  TO  MEXICO 


XXXV 


fare  $57  to  $138)  Tampico.  Special  rates  for  children  and 
for  round  trips.  Consult  the  sailing  lists,  etc.  issued  by  the 
company.  The  Havana  office  of  the  Ward  Line  is  at  No.  24, 
Calle  Oficios,  near  Central  Park. 

Leaving  New  York  the  route  follows  the  coasts  of  New 
Jersey,  Delaware,  Maryland,  Virginia,  and  North  Carolina 
to  Cape  Hatteras,  thence  across  the  northward-bound  Gulf 
Stream  (so  named  by  Benjamin  Franklin)  and  direct  south 
to  New  Providence  Island,  in  the  Bahamas,  — of  which 
Nassau  is  the  capital.  Andros  Is.  and  the  Great  Bahama  Bank 
lie  at  the  left  as  the  ship  makes  for  the  Florida  Strait.  Key 
West,  Fla.,  is  then  at  the  immediate  right,  and  Habana  at  the 
left.  The  Yucatan  Channel  is  crossed  between  Habana  and 
Progreso,  and  then  the  wide  Golfo  de  Campeche , southernmost 
reach  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  (an  ovaliform  sea  about  1,000  M. 
long  from  E.  to  W.,  800  M.  from  N.  to  S.,  with  an  area  of 
about  700,000  sqr.  miles,  and  an  average  depth  of  9,000  feet, 
compare  page  cxxvii).  Vera  Cruz  is  described  at  p.  469. 
Yucatan  at  p.  572.  Tampico  at  p.  48. 

Ships  return  over  the  same  route.  As  certain  of  them  do  not 
always  stop  at  Yucatan,  the  traveller  is  advised  to  consult 
the  local  agent  of  the  company  before  engaging  passage. 


Steamship  Docks  in  New  York.  Hotels.  Means  of  Trans- 
portation. Railway  Stations,  etc. 

On  the  return  voyage  to  New  York  the  Ward  Line  steamers 
usually  dock  on  the  Brooklyn  side,  nearly  opposite  Wall  St., 
the  point  of  departure.  Taxis  await  the  arrival  of  ships,  but 
if  the  economically  inclined  traveller  does  not  wish  to  employ 
them,  he  can  reach  the  best  of  the  metropolitan  hotels  by 
means  of  the  Interborough  Rapid  Transit  Co/s  cars.  Subway 
station  about  3 squares  to  the  left  of  the  landing:  8 minutes’ 
walk.  Any  of  the  dock  porters  will  carry  hand  luggage  and 
act  as  guide  for  50  cents.  Trunks  can  be  delivered  to  the 
baggage  agent  on  the  deck,  or  receipts  for  them  to  the  hotel 
manager.  Fare  to  any  part  of  New  York  City,  5 cents. 

New  York  is  a city  of  wonderful  hotels  — so  many,  in  fact,  that  the 
stranger  is  often  puzzled  to  know  which  will  best  suit  his  purse,  his  con- 
venience, and  his  plans.  One’s  enjoyment  of  a sojourn  in  the  world’s  greatest 
city  often  is  so  materially  influenced  by  the  comfort  and  the  luxurious 
charm  of  the  hotel  at  which  one  lodges,  that  wise  and  experienced  travellers 
nearly  always  seek  the  best.  New  York  is  not  quite  New  York  if  one  lodges 
in  a drab  little  hostelry  on  a side  street,  away  from  the  brilliance  of  the 
metropolis,  simply  because  the  room  is  a dollar  or  so  less  than  the  charges  in 
the  best  hotels.  And  the  result  is  not  temporary  only;  the  memory  of  it 
clings  to  one  long  after.  And  the  recital  of  one’s  trip  to  one’s  stay-at-home 
friends  is  altered  by  the  recollection.  Besides,  if  one  lodges  far  from  the 
Grand  Central  Terminal,  whence  the  railways  radiate  over  the  continent; 
or  from  the  theatres  or  shopping  centre,  etc.,  one  soon  pays  the  difference 
in  time  lost,  taxi  fares,  shoe-leather,  luggage  transfers  and  weariness. 

The  great  New  York  Hotels  are  in  reality  New  York  itself.  The  surging 


XXXV 


NEW  YORK  HOTELS 


tides  of  travel  which  forever  sweep  round  the  world  meet  and  mingle  and 
part  in  their  luxurious  lobbies,  which  reflect  the  financial,  social,  and  sport- 
ing life  of  the  metropolis.  Here  one  rubs  elbows  with  great  people  prominent 
in  the  literary,  social,  diplomatic,  and  financial  world,  and  here  styles  and 
manners  and  customs  can  be  studied  to  the  best  advantage. 

The  greatest  and  most  perfectly  appointed  hotels  in  the  world  are  in  New 
York,  and  the  finest  among  them  (like  the  Bowman  Hotels  and  certain  of 
the  lesser  lights),  so  typify  the  brightest  and  best  in  hotel  life  that  they 
serve  as  prototypes  or  examples  whence  hotel  builders  and  managers  the 
world  over,  from  Paris  to  Buenos  Aires,  and  from  London  to  Tokyo,  drawT 
their  ideas  and  methods  of  construction  and  management.  Preeminent 
among  the  NewT  York  Hotels  (and  thus  standing  at  the  pinnacle  of  the 
world’s  best),  distinguished  wherever  travellers  foregather,  and  surpassing 
all  others  in  superiority  of  construction,  equipment,  luxury  and  service,  are 
The  Bowman  Hotels  ( John  McE.  Bowman,  President),  overlooking  beauti- 
ful Pershing  Square,  at  the  very  nerve  centre  of  the  metropolis  and  the 
continent,  adjacent  to  the  Grand  Central  Terminal  (and  connected  thereto 
by  tiled  subways),  and  near  the  beautiful  Astor  Library,  noble  Fifth  Ave., 
the  Art  Galleries,  Museums,  Parks,  Theatres,  the  fashionable  Shopping 
District,  the  Clubs,  Broadway,  and  all  that  is  New  York  City. 

Travellers  can  effect  a very  material  saving  in  time  and  money  by  selecting 
one  of  the  following  hotels  in  which  to  lodge  while  in  the  city.  Elevated, 
surface  and  subway  c?.rs  radiate  to  all  metropolitan  points,  as  well  as  to 
Long  Island,  New  Jersey  and  other  suburbs,  with  a service  remarkable  for 
rapidity,  safety  and  cheapness.  On  arriving  at  the  Grand  Central  Terminal, 
by  train  or  street  car,  one  can  hand  one’s  hand-bags  to  a red-capped  porter 
and  within  a minute  or  two  can  be  in  the  hotel.  By  delivering  baggage 
checks  to  the  porter  or  the  hotel  management,  trunks  are  delivered  in 
the  room  almost  immediately.  There  are  no  excessive  charges  and  no 
delay.  When  one  gets  ready  to  leave  it  is  but  a step  from  the  hotel  room  to 
the  waiting  Pullman  in  the  Grand  Central  Terminal.  No  trains  are  lost 
through  stalled  taxis,  and  weather  conditions  make  no  difference,  since 
the  connecting  corridors  are  underground. 

If  one  is  limited  for  time,  a hotel  i oom  near  the  station  is  worth  twice  its 
cost,  particularly  in  New  York,  where  magnificent  distances  are  the  rule 
rather  than  the  exception.  An  important  feature  is  that  the  Bowman 
Hotels  aggregate  nearly  ten  thousand  rooms  (2,000  rooms  with  bath  in  the 
Commodore  alone) , and  the  stranger  is  therefore  almost  certain  to  find  lodg- 
ings; thus  saving  the  time  and  money  lost  in  going  from  one  hotel  to  another 
in  search  of  a place  to  stay.  Every  type  of  first-class  hotel  accommodation 
is  available  in  these  modern  palaces,  from  one  room  with  a bath,  to  house- 
keeping apartments  of  almost  anjr  size.  The  quiet,  unobtrusive  luxury  so 
appreciated  by  people  of  taste  and  refinement,  the  comforts,  conveniences, 
the  perfect  service,  the  faultless  food,  the  reasonable  charges  and  the  sparkle 
and  brilliance  of  the  Bowman  lobbies,  make  a strong  appeal  to  the  average 
traveller.  The  Cascades,  the  Italian  Garden,  and  certain  of  the  other 
public  apartments  of  the  stated  Biltmore,  its  Tea  Rooms  and  Dining  Halls 
are  known  the  world  round.  The  Library  for  the  use  of  guests  is  one  of  the 
finest  on  the  continent.  A garage  with  every  device  for  the  convenience  of 
guests  and  the  safety  of  cars  is  a feature  of  the  Bowman  group,  which  is 
composed  of  the  following  hotels: 

The  Biltmore  (under  the  personal  supervision  of  John  McE.  Bowman, 
President;  Eugene  D.  Miller , Vice  President),  opposite  the  Grand  Central 
Terminal  (at  the  right,  as  one  emerges  from  the  station),  covering  an  entire 
city  block  from  43d  to  44th  St.,  and  from  Madison  Ave. 

The  Commodore  ( George  IT.  Sweeney,  Vice  President),  adjoining  the 
Grand  Central  Terminal  (at  the  left). 

The  Belmont  (James  Woods,  Vice  President),  facing  the  Grand  Central 
Terminal  entrance. 

The  Murray  Hill  Hotel  ( James  Woods,  Vice  President),  adjacent  to  the 
Belmont. 

The  Ansonia  ( Edward  M.  Tierney,  Vice  President),  a beautiful  hotel  in 
the  Riverside  Residential  District,  at  Broadway  and  73d  St. 

All  the  foregoing  hotels  are  unhesitatingly  recommended  as  being  of  the 
very  highest  class  and  satisfactory  to  the  minutest  detail. 


THE  BAHAMA  ISLANDS 


xxx  vi  a 


Nassau  (so-called  in  honor  of  the  House  of  Nassau,  the 
reigning  House  of  the  Netherlands),  capital  and  chief  city 
(the  only  city)  of  the  Bahamas,  is  a popular  health  resort  on 
the  island  of  New  Providence  (about  20  M.  long  by  7 M. 
broad)  in  lat.  25°  6'  N.W.  and  long.  77°  22'  W.  It  is  an  attractive 
city  in  tropical  surroundings,  overlooking  the  sea,  and  filled 
to  overflowing  in  the  winter  with  tourists  from  many  lands, 
but  chiefly  Americans.  There  are  a number  of  good  hotels  and 
boarding-houses  (consult  the  Passenger  Department  of  the 
N.Y.  & Cuba  Mail  S.S.  Co.,  foot  of  Wall  St.,  New  York  City, 
for  rates  and  other  information),  and  many  pleasant  walks  in 
the  suburbs.  Being  a British  Colonial  possession,  English 
money  is  in  circulation,  but  American  money  passes  current  at 
a reasonable  exchange.  The  climate  is  fine  and  healthful,  with 
sunny,  balmy  days  and  cool  nights.  The  people  are  friendly 
and  they  dwell  here  tranquilly  in  a sort  of  happy  imperium  in 
imperio  which  is  a sustained  delight  to  the  northerner.  Grim 
winter  with  its  days  of  gloom  and  melancholy  is  unknown; 
brilliant  and  colorful  summer  reigns  eternal,  and  the  com- 
plexities of  life  are  far  removed.  Prohibition  is  not  in  effect. 
The  city  faces  the  harbor  from  the  north.  Miami,  Florida,  is 
145  M.  to  the  W. 

The  Bahamas,  in  the  British  West  Indies,  comprise  about  3,000  islands, 
islets  and  cays  which  extend  from  the  Great  Bahama,  off  Jupiter,  on  the 
Florida  Coast,  southerly  for  700  M.  to  the  Island  of  Grand  Turk,  north  of 
Santo  Domingo.  They  have  a total  population  of  about  30,000  (the  majority 
of  whom  live  on  New  Providence)  and  a total  area  of  about  5,450  square 
miles.  The  principal  islands  are  Great  Abaco,  Great  Bahama,  New  Provi- 
dence, Andros,  Eleuthera,  Cat,  Watling’s,  Long,  Crooked,  Acklin,  Marigu- 
ana,  Great  Exhuma,  Great  Inagua,  and  the  Biminis.  The  archipelago  was 
formerly  known  as  The  Lucayas:  The  Biminis  are  said  to  have  been  the 
objective  point  of  Ponce  de  Leon  in  his  historic  search  for  the  fabled  Foun- 
tain of  Youth. 

Historical  Sketch.  When  the  Bahamas  (an  aboriginal  Indian  word)  were 
discovered  in  1492  by  Columbus,  they  were  inhabited  by  a gentle  and  in- 
offensive race  of  Indians  whom  the  Spaniards  carried  away  and  forced  to 
labor  in  the  mines  of  Santo  Domingo  and  the  pearl  fisheries  of  Cumana. 
They  thenceforth  remained  unoccupied,  permanently,  until  the  English 
settled  them  in  1629.  Prior  to,  and  even  after  this  date,  they  were  the 
chosen  rendezvous  of  buccaneers  and  other  sea-rovers  from  the  Spariish 
Main,  and  ghastly  stories  are  current  of  their  orgies  and  daring  adventures. 
Nassau  was  long  the  objective  point  of  these  pirates,  who  are  said  to  have 
held  many  a council  under  the  great  silk-cotton  tree  facing  Court  Square. 

The  Spaniards  resented  the  English  occupation  of  the  islands,  and  upon 
one  occasion  they  captured  New  Providence,  or  Nassau  and  its  environs 
(so  named,  it  is  said,  by  an  English  captain  who  found  shelter  in  the  harbor 
from  a great  storm,  and  called  it  Providence  in  token  of  his  gratitude)  and 
after  murdering  the  inhabitants,  burned  the  unfortunate  governor  over  a 
slow  fire.  Though  dispossessed  by  the  Spaniards,  the  English  returned.  The 
islands  repeatedly  changed  masters,  but  were  finally  annexed  permanently 
to  the  British  Empire  in  1783.  At  the  close  of  the  Revolutionary  War  many 
Tories  settled  there,  and  they  were  given  large  grants  of  land.  The  white 
inhabitants  of  the  islands  to-day  are  the  descendants  of  these  settlers. 

The  negroes  are  pure  Africans,  and  though  descended  from  the  negro 
slaves  brought  hither  by  Southern  Loyalists  after  the  Revolution,  they  are 
quite  unlike  the  average  American  darky.  Their  aboriginal  traits  are 
strong,  their  features  African  rather  than  American,  and  their  blood  ap- 
parently undiluted  by  a drop  of  any  alien  strain.  They  were  freed  by  the 
emancipation  act  of  1834. 


xxxv  ib 


THE  BAHAMAS 


Nassau . 


The  Harbor  is  1J  M.  long  by  J M.  wide,  with  a narrow  en- 
trance between  the  reefs.  Hog  Island  (good  surf  bathing) 
lies  at  the  left  of  the  strait  as  we  enter.  Big  ships  anchor 
in  the  roadway,  outside,  and  smaller  boats  carry  passengers 
ashore.  The  commodious  landing  is  one  minute’s  walk  from 
Bay  St.,  the  main  thoroughfare  of  the  city  (at  the  right).  The 
Port  spreads  back  up  the  sides  of  a white  coral  ridge  whose 
flanks  extend  beneath  the  ocean.  As  the  launch  glides  over 
the  surface  of  the  translucent  water  the  blue  sky  reflected 
therein  and  against  the  white  coral  below  imparts  a decided 
bluish  tinge  to  the  water  and  permits  one  to  see  small  objects 
at  a very  appreciable  depth. 

The  kaleidoscopic  life  of  the  Port  expresses  itself  in  Bay  St., 
at  the  E.  end  of  which,  in  a magnificent  garden  such  as  the 
tropics  only  can  produce,  is  the  huge  Colonial  Hotel 
(burned  to  the  ground  in  March,  1922,  and  immediately  recon- 
structed). A number  of  attractive  little  shops  after  the  fashion 
of  those  of  other  English  colonies,  flank  the  clean  thorough- 
fare, facing  which  (right)  is  the  Sponge  Market,  the  Fish 
Market,  and  other  places  of  local  interest.  The  negro  women 
one  sees  here  with  their  starched  skirts  and  bright  raiment, 
remind  one  of  Jamaicans.  The  immense  Silk-Cotton  Tree,  or 
Ceiba  (a  Haitian  word),  or  Bornbax  Ceiba , in  Court  Square,  is 
locally  celebrated. 

The  street  names  (King,  Queen,  Charlotte,  Cumberland, 
Frederick,  Duke,  Princess,  etc.)  suggest  the  Georgian  period, 
or  the  epoch  of  the  Four  Georges.  They  radiate  upward  from 
Bay  St.  to  higher  roadways  flanked  by  prim  colonial  houses 
set  in  rose-crowTned  gardens  from  which  one  gets  commanding 
views  over  the  lower  town  and  the  bay.  Finer  and  more  ex- 
tensive views  are  possible  from  Fort  Fincastle , an  ovaliform 
stone  fortress  a short  walk  N.-E.  of  the  Royal  Victoria 
Hotel,  now  used  as  a signal  station  (caretaker  sells  specimens 
of  his  handiwork;  fees  unnecessary)  and  erected  by  John 
Murray , Fourth  Earl  of  Dunmore  (b.  1732,  d.  1809;  Governor 
of  the  Bahamas  from  1787  to  1796).  The  approach  to  the 
knoll  on  which  the  fortress  stands  is  through  a deep  cut  in  the 
madrepore  or  coral  formation,  thence  up  successive  flights  of 
steps.  A short  climb  at  the  immediate  right  then  brings  one 
to  the  crest  of  the  hill.  The  steps  bear  the  grandiloquent  title 
of  the  Queen’s  Staircase,  notwithstanding  no  queen  is 
believed  ever  to  have  honored  them.  The  friable  nature  of  the 
stone  walls  on  both  sides  of  the  cut  demonstrates  the  facility 
with  which  it  can  be  quarried.  The  entire  island  is  formed  of 
this  calcareous  rock,  covered  with  a light,  sand}^  soil.  Numer- 
ous springs  have  their  origin  in  it,  and  these  and  the  vivifying 
sun  and  warm  air  produce  many  fine  fruits,  a host  of  tropical 
flowers,  cocoanuts,  vegetables,  and  not  a few  fine  woods  — 
mahogany,  fustic,  lignum  vitae,  etc. 


Havana. 


THE  ISLAND  OF  CUBA 


XXXV1C 


Government  House,  on  Mt.  Fitzwilliam,  E.  of  the  Royal 
Victoria  Hotel,  at  the  head  of  George  St.,  in  the  midst  of 
extensive  grounds,  commands  an  excellent  view  of  the  harbor 
and  distant  sea.  The  piratical-looking  statue  which  guards 
the  entrance  to  the  grounds  is  of  Christopher  Columbus. 

The  Blue  Hills  range  back  of  the  Port  and  rise  to  a height 
of  120  ft.  Beyond  this  sierra  lie  (7  M.)  the  primitive  African 
settlement  of  Carmichael  (where  the  negroes  dwell  in  their 
pristine  simplicity);  Lakes  (about  12  M.)  Cunningham,  and 
Killarney  (duck  shooting),  and  some  caves  in  which  a few 
rather  worthless  relics  of  the  aborigines  have  been  found.  A 
sort  of  luxuriant  neglect  characterizes  this  part  of  the  island, 
which  is  overrun  with  palms  and  tropical  jungle  pleasing  to 
the  eye  but  not  commercially  productive.  The  fantastic  dirt 
around  the  negro  cabins  makes  no  appeal  to  strangers. 

The  Sea  Gardens,  about  5 M.  to  the  N.-E.,  are  bizarre  and 
beautiful.  Steam  launches  leave  one  of  the  several  landings 
twice  daily.  Fares  conditional  upon  the  number  of  persons  in 
a party,  etc.  Sail  boats  can  be  hired.  Glass-bottomed  boats 
enable  one  to  see  the  beautiful  tinted  corals,  marine  vegeta- 
tion, a host  of  bright-hued  fishes  and  a submarine  jungle  with 
its  many  inhabitants.  The  water  is  crystal  clear  and  the  piscine 
forms  remind  one  of  those  in  the  Honolulu  Aquarium  and  that 
on  the  shore  of  the  Bay  of  Naples. 

The  Lake  of  Fire  (known  locally  as  Waterloo),  on  the  out- 
skirts of  the  Port  (ask  any  policeman  or  native)  is  an  artificial 
pond  cut  from  the  coral  rock  (300  ft.  wide  by  950  ft.  long) 
linked  to  the  sea  by  a narrow  canal  which  originally  served  as  a 
‘ turtle  crawl/  The  tidal  inflow  is  regulated  by  a water-gate. 
The  water  is  impregnated  with  tiny  marine  animals  which  at 
night  emit  a phosphorescent  light  when  disturbed.  When  the 
negro  boys  swim  among  them  they  appear  to  move  in  a lu- 
minous element,  and  the  effect  is  weird. 

The  Island  of  Cuba.  Havana.  Hotels.  Railways.  Streets. 

Churches.  Parks.  Morro  Castle  and  other  Fortresses,  etc. 

Havana.  Arrival.  There  is  so  much  of  interest  in  Havana 
that  the  traveller  bound  for  Mexico  will,  if  he  has  the  time  to 
spare,  arrange  with  the  steamship  company  for  a stopover 
that  will  permit  him  to  remain  over  and  pick  up  a later  ship. 
The  passenger  department  of  the  Ward  Line  will  arrange  this, 
or  the  Purser  on  the  ship  will,  if  the  traveller  makes  up  his  mind 
after  leaving  New  York.  The  Havana  Office  of  the  company 
is  mentioned  at  p.  xxxv.  A serviceable  plan  of  the  City  of 
Havana  can  be  had,  free,  of  any  Ward  Line  agent,  or  the 
Purser  on  any  of  the  company’s  ships. 

Spanish  (p.  xvii)  is  the  current  language  of  the  people  but 
this  should  never  deter  the  traveller  with  no  knowledge  of  it, 


xxxvi  d 


r HAVANA 


Hotels , 


for  English  is  widely  spoken,  and  the  stranger  usually  has  no 
difficulty  in  getting  about.  Phrase-books  and  Interpreters  are 
on  sale  at  all  of  the  bookstores.  See  p.  xvii. 

The  custom-house  formalities  are  prompt,  courteous  and 
lenient,  one  steps  directly  from  the  ship's  gangplank  to  the 
dock;  trolley  cars  run  in  all  directions,  taxis  await  the  arrival 
of  travellers,  the  city  is  compact,  walking  is  easy  and  extraordi- 
narily attractive,  and  within  five  minutes  after  leaving  the 
ship  one  is  in  the  heart  of  the  city. 

Havana  Hotels.  While  there  are  a number  of  hotels  in  the  city,  certain 
among  them  widely  heralded,  not  all  of  them  satisfy  the  American  desire 
for  cleanliness,  good  food,  fresh  air  and  comfort.  The  average  Spaniard 
still  regards  the  fly  with  a friendly  eye,  and  fails  to  swat  him  with  the  vigor 
characteristic  of  the  American.  In  various  minor  ways  the  oftentimes  dark, 
and  frequently  gloomy,  native  hostelry  lacks  the  light  and  sparkle  of  the 
modern  American  hotel,  and  the  traveller  from  the  North  finds  it  difficult 
to  feel  at  ease  in  one.  This  has  given  rise  to  a type  of  hotel  which  caters 
specially  to  American  taste;  a species  of  high  standard  American  hotel 
adapted  to  the  tropics,  with  the  comfort  of  the  one  and  the  charm  of  the 
other. 

Conspicuous  among  these  international  hotels,  deservedly  popular 
and  widely  known  for  the  perfection  of  its  appointments,  is  the  stately  and 
palatial  SEVILLA  ( H . B.  Judkins,  Resident  Manager),  a southern  branch 
of  the  equally  renowned  Bowman  Hotels  ( John  McE.  Bowman,  President) 
of  New  York  City  and  elsewhere  (the  beautiful  and  commodious  Biltmore, 
the  Commodore,  the  Belmont,  the  Murray  Hill,  the  Ansonia,  etc.). 

With  its  splendid  location  near  the  fashionable  Prado,  Central  Park, 
National  Theatre,  American  Club,  New  Presidential  Palace,  the  Shopping 
Centre  and  the  chief  points  of  interest,  the  Sevilla's  beautiful  lobby,  patio 
and  palm  garden  make  it  the  most  attractive  hotel  in  Cuba.  It  is  a place  of 
unusual  comfort  and  refinement.  The  social  and  distinguished  diplomatic 
life  of  the  metropolis  has  made  of  it  a sort  of  rendezvous,  and  here  one  may 
see  people  of  note  from  many  parts  of  the  world.  The  President  of  Cuba  and 
his  entourage  often  dine  at  the  Sevilla,  and  the  wealth,  beauty  and  fashion 
of  the  island  usually  attend  the  celebrated  The  Dansants  in  the  Sevilla 
Palm  Garden.  At  this  time  the  atmosphere  of  the  hotel  is  that  of  charming 
Southern  Spain,  of  Paris,  Madrid,  and  others  of  the  gay  capitals  of  the 
world,  and  the  sight  is  one  which  the  tourist  will  not  care  to  miss. 

The  Sevilla  Rooms  are  large,  cool  and  airy,  the  food  delicious  (New  York 
chefs),  the  music  good,  and  the  service  all  that  can  be  desired.  Long  dis- 
tance (submarine!  telephones  connect  the  hotel  with  every  corner  of  the 
United  States.  Experienced  Interpreters  assist  passengers  through  the 
custom-house  and  look  after  their  wants  during  their  stay  in  Havana.  The 
reasonable  Hotel  Rates  make  the  hotel  as  popular  in  summer  as  in  winter. 

Havana  is  essentially  a Sports  centre,  and  the  Sevilla  is  a sort  of  luxurious 
club  house  for  the  men  and  women  who  delight  in  them.  Racing  (at  Ori- 
ental Park,  and  on  the  Bay),  Golfing  (good  links  in  the  environs),  Swim- 
ming, Boating,  Night  Tennis,  Grand  Opera,  the  fascinating  Jai-ali  or  Juego 
de  Pclota  (see  p.  cxiii),  and  motoring  through  the  attractive  suburbs  and 
over  the  excellent  sea  roads  roundabout  are  some  of  the  diversions  of  this 
beguiling  resort.  Sight-seeing  autos  leave  the  Sevilla  at  stated  intervals  for 
points  of  interest  in  the  city  and  on  the  island.  Information  relating  to 
sports,  theatres,  etc.,  can  always  be  had  of  the  hotel  management.  Time 
and  money  can  be  saved  by  planning  excusions  with  the  manager’s  as- 
sistance. An  excellent  city  map  can  be  had  free  at  the  Information  Bureau 
in  the  hotel  lobby. 

The  Climate  (el  clima ) is  the  perpetual  summer  of  the  tropics  modified  by 
the  cool,  moist  sea  breeze  brought  in  on  the  trade  wind  during  the  hottest 
part  of  the  day.  The  N.-E.  trades  blow  almost  every  day  in  the  year  from 
early  in  the  forenoon  to  sunset;  they  sink  with  the  sun  and  are  gradually  re- 
placed by  a land  breeze  which  comes  laden  with  aromatic  perfume  from  the 
flower-embowered  hinterland.  Thus  the  nights  are  nearly  always  cool.  The 


Descriptive . 


HAVANA 


xxx  vie 


rains  which  prevail  from  May  to  November  bring  clouds  that  protect  the 
earth  from  the  fierce  rays  of  the  sun,  and  the  atmosphere  is  cooled  by  the  co- 
pious evaporation  of  the  waters.  From  Dec.  to  May  the  climate  is  dry.  Now 
that  yellow  fever  is  no  more,  and  the  mosquito  practically  exterminated,  Cuba 
is  healthful.  The  average  maximum  height  of  the  thermometer  during  the 
winter  season  is  85°  Fahr.,  in  summer  87°.  It  seldom  rises  above  90°,  and 
rarely  falls  below  70°.  When  this  does  happen  it  is  due  to  the  strong  Northers 
( nortes ),  the  monsoons  (Arabic,  mausims  — strong  winds, — see  p.  471) 
which  come  down  from  the  North  and  topple  the  mercury  to  about  60°.  This 
equable  climate  makes  Havana  (and  Cuba  generally)  a delightful  resort  for 
northerners  who  wish  to  escape  the  prolonged  cold  of  the  eastern  winter. 
The  annual  death  rate  is  low,  being  about  12  per  thousand.  The  average 
rainfall  is  54  inches.  The  Cuban  climate  produces  none  of  the  depressing 
effects  of  that  of  the  lower  tropics.  The  Havana  summer  is  cooler  than  that 
of  New  York,  Boston  or  St.  Louis.  The  winter  is  altogether  charming,  a 
sort  of  perpetual  June  with  an  early  morning  tang  that  suggests  October  at 
the  North. 

Havana,  or  Habana,  or  San  Cristobal  de  la  Habana,  often 
referred  to  as  the  Pearl  of  the  Antilles,  a fair  city  on  a tongue 
of  land  formed  by  the  sea  on  one  side  and  the  land-locked 
basin  of  the  harbor  on  the  other,  on  the  N.-W.  coast  of  the 
Island  of  Cuba,  at  the  edge  of  the  torrid  zone,  in  lat.  23°  9'  4" 
N.  and  long.  82°  22'  W.,  one  of  the  great  ports  of  the  world, 
with  a pop.  of  300,000,  was  long  the  seat  of  government  of 
Spain  in  the  New  World,  and  was  the  point  whence  the  early 
Spanish  explorers  started  on  their  voyages  of  discovery  to 
what  is  now  the  United  States  of  North  America. 

No  city  in  all  the  Americas  unites  within  its  ancient  walls 
more  of  historical  and  abiding  interest  than  this  age-old  strong- 
hold of  conquering  Spain  in  the  Western  Hemisphere.  Founded 
in  1519,  nearly  a century  before  the  Pilgrims  landed  on  Plym- 
outh Rock,  or  the  Dutch  bought  Manhattan  Island  from  the 
Five  Nations,  it  has  known  the  very  presence  of  the  valiant 
men  who  discovered  and  made  known  our  own  America,  and 
for  this  reason  alone  it  is  of  greater  moment  to  Americans  than 
any  other  spot  on  the  continent.  No  city  records  a more  stir- 
ring or  romantic  past,  and  none  possesses  a more  charming 
present. 

Spanish-Moorish  in  character,  with  a striking  individuality 
and  a delightful  climate;  inhabited  by  a likable  people  gay  but 
not  frivolous  and  with  a keen  sense  of  the  value  of  leisure  and 
recreation,  it  is  rapidly  becoming  a southern  Mecca  for  those 
discriminating  persons  who  dislike  the  rigors  of  the  northern 
winter,  who  love  the  manifold  fascinations  of  Spanish  life,  and 
who  particularly  like  the  ease  to  be  found  in  a land  not  so 
absurdly  strenuous  as  to  permit  life’s  joys  to  be  overshadowed 
by  its  increasing  complexities. 

To  the  antiquarian  interested  in  the  early  history  of  America 
under  the  white  races,  the  Havana  Libraries  are  mines  of 
illuminating  information.  The  ecclesiologist  will  delight  to 
wander  through  its  historic  churches,  the  militarist  will  view 
it  as  one  of  the  strongest  fortifications  of  the  ancient  times, 
while  the  average  traveller  will  find  it  a sort  of  local  Hesperides 


xxxvi/  HAVANA  Descriptive. 

of  manifold  delights  and  unfading  charm.  The  Cubans  respond 
enthusiastically  to  sympathy  and  good-will,  and  by  those  who 
know  them  the}’  are  always  referred  to  as  muy  simpatico. 

Lafcadio  Hearn’s  assertion  that  “ it  is  only  among  the  Latins 
that  the  charm  of  life  still  lingers  in  our  western  civilization,” 
recurs  to  the  mind  as  one  idles  through  the  chequered,  sunlit 
streets  of  this  southern  metropolis.  To  the  uninitiated  north- 
ern eye  it  is  a vision  of  delight  ; the  glamour  of  Castilian  life  is 
over  all  — the  brilliant  parks,  the  gay  Prado,  the  picturesque 
churches,  theatres,  palacios , arcades  and  colonnades.  The 
flashing  domes  of  the  public  edifices  suggest  Iberia  and  the 
Alhambra,  the  ever-changing  eddies  of  color  in  the  streets  are 
Oriental  in  character,  the  barred  windows  through  which  one 
catches  fugitive  glimpses  of  Eden-like  patios  and  alluring 
feminine  forms  recall  Andalucia  and  Granada,  and  the  dancing 
sea  over  which  “ kites  sail  circles  in  the  golden  air,”  make  for  a 
tranquillity  singularly  appealing  to  the  northern  mind. 

Heliopolis  should  be  the  name  of  this  southern  metropolis, 
for  the  utter  winsomeness  of  the  unvarying  blue  sky,  and  the 
ungrudging  quality  of  the  sempiternal  sunshine  are  sources  of 
never-failing  joy  to  the  man  from  New  England.  Everything 
seems  eternally  splashed  with  refulgent  gold;  the  animated 
streets,  the  palms  waving  languidly  above  the  park  benches, 
the  beggars  drowsing  on  the  cathedral  steps,  and  even  the 
American  bounder,  who,  down  on  his  luck,  sidles  up  to  one, 
calls  him  friend,  and  solicits  a loan  for  this  or  that  chimerical 
purpose.  The  sunshine  adds  such  a sparkle  to  life  that  one 
cannot  at  first  believe  in  its  constancy,  and  one  expects  the 
winds  of  change  to  alter  it  all,  and  bring  dark  clouds  and 
gloom  and  tears.  But  these  come  not,  and  the  sun  shines  on, 
and  the  rays  seem  so  to  enrich  every  one  that  the  hurry  and 
strain  to  live,  the  passion  to  expand,  and  the  struggle  to  over- 
reach one’s  kind  seems  unnecessary,  and  are  absent. 

Throughout  the  rarely  changing  year  the  city  parks  and 
driveways  are  brave  with  tropical  flowers,  and  the  Spanish 
maidens  one  meets  in  the  shaded  promenades  walk  with  a 
lissom  grace  and  attune  the  mind  to  romance.  With  an  osten- 
tatious disregard  for  time  the  people  dawdle  and  sit  about 
and  gossip  and  seem  imbued  with  the  laziness  of  eternal  sum- 
mer. There  is  ample  life  in  the  city  streets  at  all  times,  but 
little  or  no  hurry.  Nerve  strain  seems  absent.  Only  the  public 
buildings  are  ambitious.  The  new  ones  rise  like  those  of  New 
York,  looking  down  upon  squat  neighbors  and  indicating 
what  Havana  will  be  at  no  distant  date  — a felicitous  blend 
of  charming  S panish- American  life  with  that  of  the  virile  and 
materialistic  North. 

Certain  of  the  streets  are  not  above  ten  feet  wide,  with  side- 
walks not  over  15  inches,  and  as  one  threads  these  murmuring 
ways  at  noon  or  eventide,  or  beneath  the  argent  rays  of  a 


Descriptive . HAVANA  xxxvi^ 

southern  moon,  one  passes  balconies  where  eager  gallants 
whisper  Spanish  nothings  to  shadowy  forms  within,  and  one 
thinks  of  vigilant  duenas , sloe-eyed  inamoritas,  rapier-and- 
cloaked  figures  and  romantic  episodes  connected  therewith. 
Apparently  no  travesty  of  a dead  summer  or  a dismal  past  ever 
throws  its  chill  shadow  over  the  face  of  this  radiant  isle,  and  it 
would  seem  that  no  anxious  life  problems  ever  vex  the  Cuban 
mind. 

The  night  life  of  Havana  is  particularly  alluring  to  one  ac- 
customed to  the  rather  drab  postprandial  existence  in  the 
circumspect  North.  It  reflects  in  a thoroughly  charming  way 
the  passionate,  insouciant  life  of  sunny,  southern  Spain,  and 
of  it  the  northerner  rarely  tires.  If  he  finds  it  a shade  too 
lively  he  usually  reflects  that  customs  differ  in  different 
localities,  that  one  should  not  seek  for  motes  in  bright  eyes, 
and  that  if  all  countries  and  manners  were  alike  there  would 
be  little  reason  for,  or  pleasure  in,  travelling.  Certain  it  is  that 
no  gloomy  ‘ watch  and  warders 1 dog  one’s  footsteps  in  this 
Arcadian  Isle,  the  “ purple  goddess  beloved  of  Bacchus  ” still 
exercises  her  soporific  influence  over  the  minds  of  the  populace, 
Dionysus  celebrates  his  festivals  with  joyous  moderation,  and 
the  don’ts  stuck  up  on  the  American  grass  are  relegated  to  the 
limbo  assigned  to  them.  Here  star-eyed,  radiant-faced  seno- 
ritas  dance  the  winsome  and  beguiling  habanera  without  fear 
of  being  pinched  by  some  solemn,  horse-faced  minion  of  the 
law,  innocuous  sports  taboo  in  puritanical  districts  come  out 
into  the  uncritical  open,  the  half -strangled  American  feels  his 
nerves  tingle  with  the  pure  joy  of  being  alive,  and  under  the 
free  canopy  of  a sun-splashed  or  star-flecked  sky  he  lives  “ a 
day  of  gold  in  an  age  of  iron.,, 

The  entrance  to  the  harbor  is  strikingly  picturesque.  When 
the  great  ship  sweeps  through  the  narrow  strait  one  sees  that 
it  is  scarce  a thousand  feet  wide,  but  when  one  is  well  inside  one 
notes  that  the  triple-headed  bay  expands  to  a mile  and  a half 
in  breadth  to  a length  of  three  miles.  Anchored  within  this 
safe  and  capacious  haven  (about  9 square  miles  of  surface; 
from  1 to  7 fathoms  deep)  are  usually  the  ships  of  many  na- 
tions, while  bright  and  lively  native  craft  ( guadanos  — the 
boatmen  guadaheros ) unfamiliar  in  design  to  northern  eyes 
dart  to  and  fro  across  the  dimpling  water.  At  the  left  of  the 
entrance,  on  a commanding  eminence  100  ft.  above  the  sea, 
stands  the  grim,  sullen  old  Morro  (headland,  bluff,  cliff) 
Castle  ( castillo ),  hoary  with  age  and  bearing  on  its  lined  sides 
the  recording  marks  of  four  centuries. 

Mono  Castle  dates  from  1587,  at  which  time  it  was  completed  (by  con- 
vict labor)  to  safeguard  the  city  against  the  attacks  of  the  sea-rovers  who 
at  that  time  coursed  the  Gulf  and  the  Spanish  Main.  Prominent  among 
these  buccaneers  was  the  English  corsair  Francis  Drake  — long  the  scourge 
of  Vera  Cruz  and  the  Mexican  coast.  Returning  from  the  pillage  of  Car- 
thagena  in  1585,  Drake  blockaded  Havana  and  attempted  its  capture,  but 
was  repulsed.  The  fortress  was  erected  to  prevent  a realization  of  his 


xxxvi  h 


HAVANA 


Morro  Castle. 


threat  to  return  and  plunder  the  Port.  Like  Gibraltar,  Morro  Castle  is 
partly  hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock.  Deep  moats  surround  it,  and  entrance  is 
gained  over  a drawbridge  leading  to  the  sallyport.  A modern  signal  service 
station  occupies  the  stone  building  on  the  harbor  side  of  the  rampart.  The 
white  light  which  flashes  every  30  seconds  from  the  light-house  tower 
(erected  in  1844)  is  visible  18  miles  at  sea.  A number  of  quaint  old  cannon 
and  other  ancient  Spanish  equipment  are  features  of  the  fortress,  which  is 
reached  over  a picturesque  winding  road.  Ferryboats  leave  the  city  landing 
at  frequent  intervals. 

The  Castillo  de  San  Carlos  de  la  Cabana,  further  along  the  water  front 
from  El  Morro,  dates  from  1774  and  is  one  of  the  show  places  of  Havana. 
It  is  a massive  old  Spanish  fortification  (1  of  the  6 forts  which  formerly 
defended  the  port),  long  used  as  barrack,  prison,  fortress  and  whatnot, 
with  many  historical  associations.  One  of  the  most  interesting  is  the  famous 
Laurel  Ditch,  where  political  prisoners  usualty  were  shot.  The  handsome 
bronze  memorial  commemorates  the  patriots  who  died  in  the  cause  of  a 
free  Cuba. 

Historical  Sketch.  The  fine  harbor  was  discovered  by  Sebastian  de 
Ocampo  in  1508,  who  careened  his  ships  there  while  circumnavigating  the 
islands,  and  gave  it  the  name  of  Bahia  de  Carenas  (careening  bay).  In 
1519,  while  Hernan  Cortes  was  conquering  the  Aztec  stronghold  in  the 
Valley  of  Mexico,  the  small  population  of  the  town  of  San  Cristobal , which 
had  been  settled  10  or  12  leagues  distant,  in  the  Indian  province  of  Habana 
(whence  the  name),  removed  to  the  present  site  and  settled  the  city  now 
known  as  Havana. 

The  conquest  of  Mexico  and  the  subsequent  development  of  that  rich 
Spanish  viceroyalty,  gave  an  early  impulse  to  the  settlement  at  Havana, 
which  at  once  was  the  haven  and  the  outpost  of  the  hostile  shore  of  Mexico. 
Its  geographical  position  also  made  it  a sort  of  outfitting  port  for  adventure 
in  North  America. 

Fernando  de  Soto,  the  Spanish  soldier  who  discovered  the  Mississippi 
River  (and  who  died  near  it  in  1542)  and  who,  ten  years  before  joined 
Pizarro  in  the  Gulf  of  Guayaquil  and  was  prominent  in  the  conquest  of 
Peru,  sailed  from  Havana  on  May  12,  1539,  with  9 vessels  and  750  men 
(including  many  cavaliers  of  rank)  for  the  coast  of  Florida  (flowery) , and 
for  later  explorations  which  included  Georgia,  the  Carolinas,  Tennessee, 
Alabama,  the  Missouri  River  and  other  hitherto  unknown  places.  (De 
Soto's  devoted  wife  ascended  the  tower  of  La  Fuerza  every  day  for  4 years, 
watching  for  the  return  of  her  beloved  husband.  When  news  reached  her 
of  his  death,  she  died  within  a few  days,  of  a broken  heart.) 

In  1534  and  again  in  1554  Havana  was  captured  and  looted  by  the 
French,  and  in  1624  the  Dutch  tried  their  hand  at  it.  The  city  was  always 
ransomed,  and  always  after  such  an  outlay  the  habaneros  went  out  and 
squeezed  more  gold  from  the  natives,  while  the  pirates  sailed  away  to  enjoy 
their  ill-gotten  gains. 

In  1550  the  seat  of  government  was  transferred  to  Habana  from  Santiago 
de  Cuba.  Occasional  incursions  of  buccaneers  made  fortifications  necessary, 
and  in  due  time  it  became  the  strongest  city  in  the  Americas.  In  1702  the 
war  of  Spanish  succession  gave  it  an  impetus,  and  it  developed  into  an  im- 
portant naval  station.  In  the  summer  of  1761  the  yellow  fever  first  appeared 
in  Havana,  supposed  to  have  been  brought  there  by  a ship  from  the  East 
Indies.  On  June  6,  1762,  the  city  was  besieged  by  an  English  squadron  of 
32  men-of-war  and  200  transports,  with  20,000  men  under  the  command  of 
the  Earl  of  Albermarle.  The  city  surrendered  Aug.  14th,  with  a spoil  esti- 
mated at  $15,000,000.  The  Port  was  held  by  the  captors  until  July  6,  1763, 
when  it  was  restored  to  Spain  in  compliance  with  the  stipulations  of  the 
treaty  of  Paris.  On  regaining  possession  of  the  city,  Spain  immediately  set 
about  strengthening  its  defences.  As  the  revenues  of  the  island  at  that 
time  fell  below  $300,000,  a yearly  payment  of  $1,200,000  was  assigned  to  it 
from  the  treasury  of  Mexico  — which  fact  gives  one  a sidelight  on  the  im- 
mense revenues  drawn  by  the  Spanish  Crown  from  Montezuma’s  one-time 
realm. 

By  the  treaty  of  Paris  Florida  was  ceded  to  England,  and  Louisiana 
returned  by  France  to  Spain.  The  first  of  these  events  gave  rise  to  a Spanish 
exodus  from  the  continent,  which  increased  the  population  of  Havana.  The 


History. 


HAVANA 


xxxvit 


second  resulted  in  a remarkable  military  movement.  French  residents  in 
Louisiana  refused  to  acknowledge  the  sovereignty  of  Spain,  so  Count  Alex- 
ander O’Reilly  (an  Irish  soldier  who  served  successively  in  the  Spanish, 
Austrian,  and  French  armies;  reentered  the  Spanish  army  in  1761;  was  dis- 
graced and  deprived  of  all  command  in  1786;  born  at  Dublin  1722;  died  at 
Chinchilla,  Murcia,  Spain,  in  1794)  fitted  out  an  expedition  of  2,500  men 
from  Havana,  occupied  New  Orleans,  reduced  Louisiana  and  annexed  it  to 
the  captaincy-general  of  Cuba.  On  the  breaking  out  of  the  American  revolu- 
tion Spain  reconquered  Florida  from  Great  Britain.  In  1795  the  revolution 
of  Santo  Domingo  drove  more  than  12,000  families  from  that  island  to 
Havana;  and  on  Jan.  15,  1796,  the  remains  of  Columbus  were  brought  from 
the  city  of  Santo  Domingo  and  deposited  with  great  pomp  in  the  cathedral. 
The  English  occupation  of  the  city  and  surrounding  country  in  1763  gave 
the  first  impulse  to  agriculture  and  trade  in  Cuba,  by  opening  foreign 
markets  to  its  products. 

In  the  course  of  time  the  southern  metropolis  waxed  populous  and 
wealthy.  The  coat  of  arms  of  the  city,  which  had  been  granted  by  a royal 
decree  in  1665,  now  became  typical  of  the  Port.  The  device  consisted  of 
three  silver  castles  on  a blue  field,  and  a gold  key.  The  castillos  were  El 
Aforro,  La  Fuerza , and  La  Punta , guarding  the  city  and  the  harbor,  and  the 
key  was  a token  of  Havana’s  strategic  position  as  the  commercial  and 
military  key  to  the  West  Indies.  The  Spanish  crown  showing  4 battlemented 
turrets  surmounted  the  device;  blazoned  on  the  shield  were  Siempre  fldel- 
Isima  (always  most  faithful).  A royal  cedula  of  May  24,  1634,  empowered 
Havana  to  designate  itself  Key  of  the  New  World  and  Safeguard  of  the 
West  Indies  ( Have  del  Nuevo  Mundo  y antemural  de  las  Indias  Occideu  tales) . 

Until  1801  Spain  maintained  a commercial  monopoly  of  the  Havana  trade 
(and  that  of  Cuba  in  general),  and  this  system,  combined  with  other  features 
of  its  government,  restricted  the  settlement  of  Cuba  almost  exclusively  to 
Spaniards.  Thus  nearly  the  whole  of  the  native  white's  are  descendants  of  the 
peninsular  Spanish  races  — many  of  them  shrewd,  industrious,  hardheaded 
Catalonians.  African  slaves  were  first  introduced  as  slaves  in  1524,  and  there 
was  great  activity  in  the  slave  trade  until  the  middle  of  the  19th  century. 
Indians  from  Yucatan  were  brought  in  in  1853.  The  mulattoes  are  the 
descendants  of  the  Africans  and  Indians  and  whites.  The  aboriginal  race 
long  since  disappeared.  Creoles  form  a large  percentage  of  the  population. 

In  1830  Havana  was  spoken  of  as  one  of  the  gay  capitals  of  the  world.  A 
high  wall  protected  by  a deep  moat  100  ft.  wide  encircled  it,  and  powerful 
fortifications  protected  it  from  the  itching  grasp  of  European  acquisitiveness 
and  piratical  rapacity.  It  was  a city  of  opulent  merchants,  magnificent 
churches,  populous  convents  and  viceregal  extravagance.  A writer  of  the 
period  referred  to  it  as  “one  of  the  richest  and  most  important  spots  on  the 

The  Sinking  of  the  U.  S.  Battleship  Maine,  Feb.  15th,  1898,  was  one 
of  the  most  momentous  episodes  in  the  history  of  the  Port  since  its  establish- 
ment. It  was  far  reaching  in  its  influence,  since  it  converted  Cuba  from  a 
monarchical  possession  into  a free  republic  (1902). 

During  one  of  the  spasmodic  efforts  of  the  Cubans  to  throw  off  the  Span- 
ish yoke  Spain  was  so  severe  in  its  treatment  of  the  unfortunate  islanders 
that  unrestrained  American  sympathy  evoked  physical  protest  from  certain 
of  the  17,000  Spanish  soldiers  and  other  Castilian  residents  of  Havana. 
In  order  to  afford  shelter  to  any  American  who  might  need  it,  the  U.  S. 
war-ship  Maine  (Capt.  Charles  Dwight  Sigsbee  in  command,  with  26  of- 
ficers and  a crew  of  328),  of  the  2d  class  (324  ft.  long,  57  ft.  beam,  6,650 
tons,  launched  in  1890,  valued  at  5 million  dollars)  was  anchored  in  the 
bay  off  Machina  Wharj.  At  9.40  p.  m.  the  ship  was  blown  up;  254  of  the 
crew  were  killed,  and  13  died  later  from  injuries  received.  The  mutilated 
vessel  sank  at  once,  and  remained  imbedded  in  mud  at  the  bottom  of  the 
bay  until  1912  when  it  was  towed  5 miles  to  sea  and  sunk  in  deep  water,  i 


1 The  most  careful  investigation  seemed  to  indicate  that  the  Maine 
had  been  blown  up  from  the  outside,  and  as  the  occurrence  was  one  in  a 
long  series  of  disagreements  it  proved  the  last  straw.  The  forbearance  and 
consideration  shown  for  so  long  by  the  great  and  powerful  American  govern- 
ment toward  puny  and  helpless  Cuba  has  few  parallels  in  history.  The 


XXXV1J 


HAVANA 


American  Intervention  followed,  and  in  Dec.,  1898,  the  Spanish  garrison 
evacuated  the  city  and  was  replaced  by  Americans.  On  Jan.  1st,  1899, 
General  Castellanos,  last  and  136th  in  the  long  line  of  governors  who  had 
misruled  Havana  in  the  name  of  the  Spanish  King,  formally  surrendered 
the  Port  to  the  American  Navy. 

American  occupation  of  Cuba  was  the  greatest  blessing  Providence  ever 
bestowed  upon  the  island.  It  is  to  the  credit  of  the  Cubanos  and  the  Haban- 
eros  that  they  recognize  this.  General  Leonard  Wood  was  the  military 
governor.  The  Americans  began  at  once  to  clean  up  the  Port,  and  in  due 
time  it  was  converted  from  one  of  the  filthiest  cities  in  America  to  one  of 
the  cleanest  and  healthiest.  Docks  were  rebuilt,  parks,  streets,  boulevards 
and  sea-roads  were  laid  out,  the  Malecon  was  constructed,  sanitation, 
schools  and  other  modern  necessities  were  inaugurated,  and  one  of  the 
greatest  scientific  discoveries  of  the  age  was  made  (in  1901)  when  Stegomyia 
fasciata  ( calopus ) was  proved  (by  Major  Walter  Reed,  Surgeon  in  the  U.  S. 
Army,  and  acting  surgeons  James  Carroll,  Aristides  Agramonte , and  Jesse 
W.  Lazear ) to  be  a transmitter  of  the  dreaded  vornito.  With  its  eradication 
(by  Major  W.  C.  Gorgas,  of  the  Medical  Department  of  the  U.S.  Army) 
Cuba  became  one  of  the  healthiest  countries  in  the  world  — as  it  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful. 

Millions  of  dollars  were  spent  by  the  United  States  in  cleaning  and  beau- 
tifying Havana  and  the  hinterland  during  the  three  years  the  Americans 
occupied  the  island.  The  first  president  of  Cuba  Libre,  Tomas  Estrada 
Palma,  was  elected  in  Dec.,  1901,  and  on  May  20,  1902,  the  United  States 
formally  withdrew  — only  to  be  temporarily  recalled  in  1907,  because  of 
lack  of  unity  among  the  politicians.  This  provisional  government  was 
abolished  in  1908  when  the  Americans  finally  withdrew  and  the  Republic 
was  restored. 

Directly  opposite  Morro  Castle , across  the  harbor  entrance, 
at  the  south,  stands  the  Castillo  San  Salvador  de  la  Punta 
(castle  of  the  Holy  Saviour  of  the  Point),  a bastioned  fortress 
(now  used  as  a barrack)  dating  from  1659.  Its  ancient  bat- 
teries were  once  intended  to  supplement  the  heavier  cannon  in 
El  Morro . The  handsome  surroundings,  the  Malecon  (sea 
wall,  embankment),  and  the  broad  and  attractive  Gulf  Ave., 
which  extends  thence  to  the  suburban  colony  of  Vedado,  are 
due  to  The  civic  spirit  of  the  Amercian  armv  of  occupation. 
Once  a disreputable  dumping  ground  in  the  lowest  quarter  of 
the  city,  it  was  converted  by  the  army  engineers  into  one  of 
the  finest  sections  of  the  Port.  Leading  cityward  from  the 
Malecon  is  the  handsome  Prado , described  hereinafter.  Along 
the  curving  shore  from  the  Punta  to  the  Ward  Line  Docks 
(hard  by  the  fine  Railway  Station)  extends  a fine  of  landings, 
ferry  stations,  customs  buildings,  and  ancient,  colonnaded 
Spanish  houses.  Many  of  the  latter  are  painted  in  warm, 
creamy  colors,  others  in  colors  that  are  irreconcilable  but 
which  somehow  blend  into  the  landscape. 

Behind  these  unquiet  wharves  and  quays  are  the  animated 
markets  and  the  busy  streets  of  the  city  proper;  a brisk  Antil- 

Great  Napoleon  claimed  Belgium  on  the  hypothesis  that  it  was  formed 
by  deposits  of  French  rivers.  At  any  time  during  the  last  hundred  years 
the  United  States  could  have  claimed  Cuba  on  the  plea  that  as  a moral, 
political,  and  physical  plague  spot  it  was  sui  generis.  During  that  period, 
and  even  longer,  it  was  a thorn  in  the  American  side  such  as  no  European 
power  would  have  tolerated  for  a decade.  Until  American  science  con- 
quered yellow  fever  in  1901,  Cuba  in  general,  and  Havana  in  particular 
had  been  the  breeding-place  of  a disease  that  annually  leaped  the  Florida 
Strait  and  took  seasonal  toll  of  thousands  of  American  lives. 


Streets  — Plazas. 


HAVANA 


xxx  vi  k 


lean  metropolis,  charmingly  mediaeval  yet  satisfyingly  modern, 
Spanish-Moorish  yet  distinctively  American,  and  withal  in- 
tensely, sustainedly,  admirably  picturesque.  It  is  a steady, 
purposeful  city,  one  with  a distinctive  individuality,  astonish- 
ingly old  yet  in  no  wise  decadent,  and  one  of  the  brightest, 
cleanest  Spanish  survivals  in  the  New  World. 

Obispo  (Bishop)  and  O’Reilly  Streets,  both  of  which  lead 
from  Central  Park  to  the  Plaza  de  Armas  (near  La  Fuerza 
and  the  Bay)  are  conspicuous  among  the  show  sts.  of  the  city. 
They  are  survivals  of  the  old-time  narrow  streets  and  they 
remind  the  traveller  of  certain  of  those  in  Canton,  or  of  the 
Bombay  or  Cairene  bazaars.  They  are  one-way  streets  in  the 
strictest  sense,  as  only  one  automobile  can  squeeze  through 
them  at  one  time.  Awnings  often  reach  from  house  to  house, 
above  them,  and  here  are  some  of  the  most  attractive  native 
shops.  Here,  as  in  Mexico,  the  shops  are  known  by  fanciful 
names  such  as  La  Perla  (pearl),  La  Esmeralda  (emerald),  El 
Regalo  (gift),  La  Esperanza  (hope),  El  Abanico  (the  fan),  etc. 
The  fan  is  universal  in  Cuba,  and  along  with  it  one  can 
here  find  Spanish  mantillas,  Panama  hats,  feather  cards  sim- 
ilar to  the  Aztec  and  Hawaiian  work,  and  a host  of  native 
products  (including  the  guava  jelly  for  which  the  island  is 
famous,  and  which  the  native  boatmen  in  the  harbor  sell  to 
the  passengers  and  crews  of  transient  ships).  Handmade  laces, 
drawn-work,  and  embroidery  are  specialties  in  many  of  the 
shops  — most  of  which  are  conducted  by  Spaniards. 

The  Plaza  de  Armas,  or  Military  Square,  at  the  foot  of 
Obispo  and  O'  Reilly  Sts.,  dates  from  about  1519;  it  was  long 
the  administrative  centre  of  the  island,  and  the  spot  around 
which  the  social  and  political  life  of  the  Port  revolved.  It  is  a 
pleasant,  flower-embowered  place,  with  a marble  statue  of 
Fernando  VII  (King  of  Spain  from  1814  to  1833).  Several 
interesting  buildings  stand  near  it. 

The  President’s  Palace  (el  palacio  del  presidente ),  with  the 
government  offices,  is  at  the  E.  of  the  plaza.  The  attractive 
patio,  surrounded  by  fine  old  arcades  and  balconies,  contains 
a statue  of  Columbus.  The  structure  dates  from  1834  and 
was  built  during  the  administration  of  the  governor-general 
Miguel  Tacon  — who  was  to  Havana  what  the  (52d)  Viceroy 
El  Conde  de  Revillagigedo  (see  p.  cxcviii)  was  to  Mexico;  a 
stern  and  eccentric  man  with  keen  perceptions,  a highly  devel- 
oped sense  of  justice,  and  an  aptitude  for  civic  reform.  He 
was  a stanch  friend  of  the  people  and  many  stories  are  told  of 
his  generous  fair-mindedness. 

The  American  flag  floated  above  the  palacio  during  the 
American  occupation  of  the  island,  and  the  palace  interior  was 
to  some  extent  remodelled  by  the  Americans.  The  beautiful 
woods  used  in  its  construction  are  from  the  Cuban  forests.  A 
few  steps  E.  of  the  Plaza  is 


xxxvi? 


HAVANA 


Churches. 


El  Templete  (small  temple,  shrine),  erected  in  1828  to  com- 
memorate the  first  landing  of  the  founders  of  Havana.  It  bears 
somewhat  the  same  relation  to  Havana  that  Plymouth  Rock 
does  to  New  England.  It  is  said  that  Diego  de  Velazques 
landed  here  in  1519,  called  the  spot  Puerto  de  Carenas,  and 
had  the  priest  of  the  expedition  sa3^  mass  under  a ceiba  tree 
( Bombax  Ceiba)  near  the  shore.  When  the  bones  of  Columbus 
were  brought  to  Havana  in  1795  they  were  first  placed  beneath 
this  tree  (which  at  that  time  was  believed  to  be  450  years  old), 
and  the  ebony  casket  and  its  contents  were  officially  inspected 
by  the  Captain-General  before  they  were  deposited  in  the 
cathedral. 

A bronze  tablet  commemorates  the  erection  and  dedication 
of  El  Templete  on  March  9,  1828. 

The  column  in  front  of  the  shrine  marks  the  site  of  the  origi- 
nal tree  — which  was  cut  down  and  converted  into  relics  in 
1828.  In  the  court  is  a bust  of  Columbus.  The  paintings 
illustrating  the  First  Municipal  Council  at  Santiago,  Cuba, 
with  Diego  de  Velazques  presiding;  the  First  Mass  celebrated 
under  the  tree  in  1519;  and  the  Inauguration  of  the  Monument, 
with  portraits  of  Gov.  Vives,  and  his  chief  officers,  are  the  work 
of  Escobar,  a Sevillian  painter  of  the  17th  century.  — Opposite 
the  Plaza,  on  O'Reilly  St.,  stands 

La  Fuerza  (fortress),  known  locally  as  the  Old  Fort,  a quad- 
rilateral structure,  with  bastions,  walls  75  ft.  high,  and  sur- 
mounted by  a tower.  Rising  from  this  superstructure,  uphold- 
ing a cross,  is  the  figure  of  an  Indian  maiden  referred  to  as  La 
Habana . Built  by  Hernando  de  Soto  in  1538,  La  Fuerza  is  one 
of  the  oldest  fortifications  in  America.  Here  De  Soto  left  his 
wife,  Doha  Isabel,  when  in  1539  he  sailed  for  the  conquest  of 
Florida,  and  here  she  remained  four  weary  years  awaiting  and 
watching  for  his  return. 

Long  the  storehouse  for  the  silver  raped  from  Peruvian 
mines,  and  the  golden  loot  wrested  from  Incas  and  Aztecs, 
with  which  to  rehabilitate  impoverished  Spain,  La  Fuerza 
was  the  objective  point  of  many  a bold  pirate  who  sailed  the 
Spanish  Main.  French,  Dutch,  English,  and  Spanishjmrsairs 
have  besieged  and  pillaged  it,  and  in  the  16th  and  17th  cen- 
turies the  fluvial  lanes  of  galleons  and  the  ocean  trails  of  buc- 
caneers alike  led  to  or  from  this  historic  spot.  In  those  days 
the  Law  of  Compensation  worked  with  meticulous  consistency, 
and  in  a sort  of  dizzy  circle;  the  Spaniards  first  stealing  the 
treasure  from  unarmed  Indians,  the  sea-rovers  taking  it  from 
the  Spaniards,  and  the  strong  arm  of  justice  taking  it,  when  it 
could,  from  the  black  flag  fleet.  Many  a red  romance  has  been 
enacted  around  this  weather-beaten  structure;  romances  in 
which  bold  pirates,  coveted  treasure,  a beleaguered  fortress, 
a despairing,  broken-hearted  wife,  and  a beautiful  Indian., 
maiden  holding  on  high  an  accusing  cross,  are  the  outstanding 
characters. 


HAVANA 


xxxvira 


The  Cathedral  (la  catedral),  on  Empedrado  St.,  at  the  corner 
of  the  Calle  Ignacio,  is  dedicated  to  the  Santisima  Virgen  de 
la  Inmaculada  Concepcion  (the  holy  Virgin),  was  begun  in 
1656  and  was  completed  in  1724.  It  is  known  locally  as  La 
Catedral  de  Colon  (Columbus  cathedral),  from  the  circum- 
stance that  the  bones  of  the  Great  Discoverer  were  brought 
hither  from  Santo  Domingo,  in  1795  (when  that  island  was 
taken  over  by  the  French),  and  were  enshrined  here  until  1898 
(when  the  Spanish  government  had  them  taken  to  Spain). 
They  are  supposed  to  rest  in  the  cathedral  at  Seville.  The 
fagade  is  less  ornate  than  the  usual  run  of  Spanish- American 
churches.  The  two  bells  in  the  tower  date  from  1664-98. 
Among  the  numerous  paintings  in  the  rather  sombre  interior 
is  an  alleged  Murillo  (see  p.  cxxxix)  depicting  the  Pope  and  his 
cardinals  celebrating  mass  before  the  departure  of  Columbus 
on  his  voyage  of  discover}^.  The  attractive  high  altar  is  of 
Italian  marble,  with  a baldachino  enshrining  a sculptured  figu- 
rine of  the  Virgin. 

Other  churches  of  note  are  that  of  Los  Santos  Angeles  (Holy 
Angels)  on  Monserrate  Ave.,  near  the  Prado;  La  Merced,  Cuba 
and  Merced  Sts. ; San  Francisco  de  Paula,  in  the  Calle  Paula, 
near  the  water  front,  and  the  conventual  church  of  Santa 
Catalina,  in  O’Reilly  St.  None  of  them  possess  the  wealth  of 
paintings  or  the  rich  gilded  sculpture  of  certain  of  the  Mexico 
City  churches.  For  a list  of  the  Protestant  Churches  and  other 
data  consult  the  local  directory. 

The  Prado  (prah'-doh),  a charming  boulevard  designed  after 
the  famous  public  walk  in  Madrid,  extends  from  the  Punta 
Fortress  and  the  Malecon , at  the  edge  of  the  sea,  through  the 
finest  section  of  the  city  to  El  P argue  Central  (Central  Park), 
which  in  turn  is  linked  to  the  fine  Parque  Colon  (Columbus) 
by  the  narrow  Parque  Isabel  (named  for  Isabel  la  Catolica). 
The  Prado  is  to  Havana  what  El  Paseo  de  la  Reforma  and  the 
Avenidas  Juarez  and  Madero  are  to  Mexico  City,  and  sections 
of  Central  Park  are  to  New  York.  The  beautiful  Hotel  Sevilla, 
the  American  Club,  the  New  Presidential  Palace  and  other 
handsome  structures  overlook  the  Prado  from  the  East.  It 
was  begun  in  Governor  Tacon’s  time  but  it  remained  for  the 
Americans  to  complete  and  beautify  it.  There  is  a central 
twin  promenade  between  flowers  and  tropical  shrubbery,  and 
a driveway  on  either  side.  At  certain  times  of  the  day  the 
wealth,  beauty  and  fashion  of  Havana  may  be  seen  here.  It 
is  particularly  attractive  just  after  twilight,  when  there  is 
music  by  an  excellent  military  band  and  all  the  Cuban  world 
turns  out  to  see  and  be  seen. 

Adjoining  the  Parque  Colon  on  the  E.  is  the  Parque  India, 
so-called  from  the  handsome  marble  fountain  (Fuente  de  la 
India)  of  the  Indian  maiden  who  is  regarded  as  a sort  of  tutelar 


xxxvm 


HAVANA 


Parks. 


goddess  of  the  city.  Central  Park  is  a gay  spot,  the  choice  of 
the  residents,  and  always  bright  with  tropical  flowers.  The 
handsome  marble  monument  to  Jose  Marti  (1853-1895),  the 
celebrated  Cuban  patriot,  is  the  work  of  the  Cuban  sculptor 
J.  V.  de  Saavedra;  it  not  only  indicates  the  highly  developed 
native  taste  for  beauty  in  art,  but  is  symbolic  of  the  intense 
patriotism  of  the  people  in  their  long  struggle  for  independence. 
It  was  erected  in  1895.  Marti  was  the  active  spirit  in  the 
revolution  of  1895  and  was  killed  in  that  year. 

In  the  Monserrate  Plaza,  near  the  Parque  Central,  at  the 
head  of  Obispo  and  O’Reilfy  Sts.,  stands  a monument  to 
General  Francisco  de  Albear  y Lara  (1811-1889),  a locally 
celebrated  engineer  who  installed  the  waterworks  and  erected 
the  Vento  aqueduct. 

The  Student’s  Memorial,  near  the  car  cel  (jail),  at  the  sea 
terminus  of  the  Prado , is  held  in  particular  reverence  by 
Cubans  because  of  the  eight  \mung  Cubans  who  were  killed  by 
Spanish  Volunteers  on  Nov.  27th,  1871.  A tablet  records  the 
event. 

The  Colon  Cemetery  ( Panteon  de  Colon),  at  the  W.  edge  of 
the  city,  on  a commanding  eminence  overlooking  a wide  ex- 
panse of  land  and  sea,  beside  being  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
burial-grounds  on  the  continent,  commemorates  Columbus 
(for  whom  it  is  named)  and  contains  some  remarkable  monu- 
ments. Conspicuous  among  these,  and  a notable  example  of 
the  sculptor’s  art  (the  work  of  Saavedra ),  is  the  handsome 
granite  entrance,  surmounted  by  a group,  of  heroic  size,  repre- 
senting Columbus  and  his  advisers.  The  attractive  panel 
beneath  symbolizes  the  Crucifixion.  Just  at  the  left,  as  we 
enter,  is  the  Student’s  Monument,  with  twin  figures  typifying 
Justice  and  Histoty. 

Beyond,  at  the  right,  is  a noteworthy  memorial  to  30  volun- 
teer firemen  who  perished  in  a fire  they  were  striving  to  extin- 
guish on  May  17,  1890,  on  Mercaderes  St.  The  bodies  of  the 
American  seamen  recovered  from  the  wreck  of  the  Maine 
were  interred  here  pending  their  removal  to  Arlington  Ceme- 
tery, at  Washington.  Many  of  the  monuments  are  highly 
ornate,  and  they  recall  the  beautiful  statuar}^  in  the  celebrated 
Campo  Santo  at  Genoa . 

The  National  Library  ( Biblioteca  nacional),  with  upward  of 
25,000  volumes,  at  the  corner  of  Chacon  and,  Maestranza  Sts., 
is  open  daily  from  8 to  5.  It  is  unusually  rich  in  rare  old  books 
relating  to  the  discovery  of  America.  Visitors  are  welcome. 
No  fees. 

Vedado  (inclosure,  park),  facing  the  Gulf  at  the  W.  of  the 
Port,  is  one  of  the  most  fashionable  suburbs.  Among  the 
palatial  residences  are  many  gay  bungalows  set  in  exquisite 


Camaguey.  SANTIAGO  — M ATANZAS 


XXXVIO 


gardens.  There  are  lovely  views  of  the  ocean.  A fine  boule- 
vard, and  a car  line  lead  from  the  city. 

The  Environs  of  Havana  are  tropical  and  picturesque. 
White  roads  lead  through  many  shades  of  green  to  flower- 
embowered  spots  whence  one  gets  beguiling  views  of  woodland 
and  sea.  Many  of  the  1400  miles  of  fine  auto  roads  on  the 
island  lead  countryward  from  Havana.  Some  of  the  highways 
which  traverse  the  gloriously  wooded  hinterland  are  flanked 
for  miles  by  stately  emperor  palms  — objects  of  rare  beauty 
in  the  landscape. 

Railways  with  good  trains,  low  fares  and  excellent  service 
(trustworthy  schedules)  traverse  the  island  in  every  direction, 
and  reach  all  the  prominent  cities  and  towns,  and  the  chief 
historic  and  beauty  spots.  English  is  usually  spoken  in  the 
railway  departments. 

Santiago  de  Cuba  (540  M.)  is  of  particular  interest  to  Ameri- 
cans from  the  fact  that  it  was  made  forever  famous  by  the 
American  army  and  navy  during  the  Spanish  War.  It  was 
here  that  Lieutenant  Hobson  and  7 companions  sank  the  Mer- 
rimac  June  3,  1898,  and  Admiral  Sampson  silenced  the  bat- 
teries commanding  the  harbor.  El  Caney  and  San  Juan  Hill, 
near  Santiago,  will  long  be  enshrined  in  American  history,  for 
the  American  troops  marched  to  the  attack  of  the  city  over 
this  route,  and  here  former  President  Roosevelt  and  his  Rough 
Riders  acquired  undying  fame. 

Camaguey,  340  miles  from  Havana  and  200  from  Santiago, 
one  of  the  oldest  and  quaintest  towns  on  the  island,  is  noted 
for  an  excellent  hotel  (the  Hotel  Camaguey , erected  by  Sir 
William  Van  Horn,  of  the  Cuba  Railway),  for  the  number 
and  beauty  of  its  churches  (La  Merced  dates  from  1628),  and 
the  charm  of  its  surroundings.  A head  wind  and  a boisterous 
sea  forced  Christopher  Columbus  into  the  deep  and  secure 
harbor  Nov.  15,  1492,  while  he  was  coasting  the  island,  and  he 
called  the  place  Puerto  del  Principe  (port  of  the  Prince),  and 
erected  a cross  on  a neighboring  height,  in  token  of  possession. 
Camaguey  is  a restful,  flower-crowned  spot,  with  a palm- 
embowered  plaza  (the  Plaza  Agramonte),  quaint  streets,  a 
cathedral,  charming  old  houses  and  pleasant  environs.  The 
climate  is  mild,  and  the  Port  is  a favorite  winter  resort  — a 
sort  of  southern  Spanish  Arcady  with  American  comforts 
grafted  upon  it. 

Matanzas,  on  the  N.  coast,  54  M.  from  Havana,  reached  by 
the  United  Railways,  or  by  sea,  contains  much  to  interest  the 
traveller.  The  celebrated  Yumuri  Valley,  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful in  the  world,  is  hard  by,  while  to  the  S.-E.  of  the  city  are 
the  widely  known  Bellamar  Caves,  smaller  than  the  Mam- 
moth Caves  of  Kentucky,  and  much  like  the  Cacahuamilpa 
Caverns  described  at  p.  454. 


xxx vip  STEAMSHIP  LINES  FROM  NEW  ORLEANS 

Cienfuegos  (100  fires),  195  M.from  Havana,  on  the  S.  coast, 
is  charmingly  tropical,  with  delightful  surroundings.  The 
plaza  is  regarded  as  the  handsomest  in  Cuba. 

Cuba  (cask,  vat),  largest  of  the  West  India  islands  (90  M.  from  Key 
West,  Florida,  at  the  outlet  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  about  7S0  M.  long  and 
varying  from  20  to  100  M.  wide,  with  a coast  line  of  about  2000  M.  and  a 
population  of  approximately  3 millions, — 30  per  cent  of  whom  are  tinted), 
came  into  history  Oct.  28,  1492,  when  Columbus,  after  touching  at  the 
islands  which  he  called  Sa?i  Salvador  (Holy  Saviour),  Santa  Maria  (Holy 
Mary)  de  la  Concepcion , Fernandina  (a  certain  kind  of  cloth),  and  Isabella 
(the  Spanish  Queen),  entered  the  mouth  of  a large  river  which  he  named 
Juana  (in  honor  of  Juana  la  Loca , daughter  of  the  Catholic  Kings,  and 
mother  of  Carlos  I.  of  Spain,  and  V.  of  Germany).  The  river  was  later 
called  Santiago,  in  honor  of  the  patron  Saint  of  Spain,  and  still  later  Are 
Maria,  in  honor  of  the  Virgin.  The  historian  says  the  native  name  for  the 
island  was  Cuba,  and  that  the  Spaniards,  catching  at  sound  rather  than 
sense,  continued  the  name  accordingly. 

The  first  settlement  of  Europeans  in  Cuba  was  made  by  300  men  under 
Diego  Veldsguez,  in  1511.  They  founded  Baracoa , near  the  E.  end  of  the 
island,  and  in  1514  Santiago,  which  was  made  the  capital.  A place  on  the 
S.  coast  was  settled  in  1515  and  called  San  Cristobal  de  la  Habana  (which 
name  was  transferred  to  the  present  capital  in  1 5 19) . The  aborigines  (of  which 
there  were  upward  of  200,000)  were  kind  and  inoffensive,  and  the  Spanish 
treatment  of  them  was  so  severe  that  Gomara,  the  historian,  writing  of  this 
cruelty,  says  that  in  1553  not  an  Indian  was  left  on  the  island.  Plantation 
workers  from  Africa  replaced  them  until  the  abolition  of  slavery  in  1883. 

A range  of  mountains,  more  or  less  broken,  extends  through  the  central 
portion  of  the  island,  three-fourths  of  which  is  covered  with  plains  and  val- 
leys. The  highest  point  is  Pico  Turquino  (8,320  ft.)  in  the  Sierra  Maestra , 
in  the  S.-E.  part  of  the  island.  Upward  of  150  rivers  dash  from  the  moun- 
tains to  the  sea,  though  only  one,  the  Caulo,  in  Santiago  province,  is  nav- 
igable for  more  than  50  miles  from  its  mouth.  There  are  a number  of 
caves  in  the  limestone  hills.  Semi-tropical  forests  of  primeval  magnificence 
clothe  the  hills  in  many  parts  of  the  island. 

The  Cuban  Flora  includes  upward  of  3,000  species  of  tropical  plants, 
among  them  a host  of  fine  fruits.  Prominent  among  these  is  the  avocado,  or 
alligator  pear  ( aguacate  — from  the  Aztec  aguacatl ),  banana  ( platano ), 
cocoanut  (el  coco),  custard  apple  (chirimoya) , fig  ( higo ),  passion-flower  fruit 
( granadilla ),  grapefruit  ( toronja ),  guava,  ( guayaba ),  lime  (lima),  mamey 
(mummy  apple),  mango,  orange  ( naranja ),  pineapple  (pin a),  sapota  (sapo- 
diUa),  sour-sop  ( guanabana , from  which  one  of  the  most  popular  drinks 
is  made),  the  tamarind  (tamarindo),  etc.  Citrus  fruits  and  vegetables  to 
the  value  of  §5,000,000  a j^ear  are  grown. 

Sugar  to  the  value  of  over  §200,000,000  is  produced  on  the  island.  The 
tobacco  crop  is  worth  about  $35,000,000.  The  famous  Vuelta  Abajo,  whence 
the  choicest  tobacco  is  raised,  is  in  western  Pinar  del  Rio. 

Railways  crisscross  the  country,  which  also  possesses  more  than  a thou- 
sand miles  of  good  automobile  roads.  It  is  said  that  there  are  no  poison- 
ous snakes  or  reptiles  in  Cuba.  The  maja,  a non-venomous  snake  of  the 
boa-constrictor  type,  sometimes  attains  a length  of  20  feet;  its  skin  is  made 
into  belts  and  purses. 

The  Mexican  Navigation  Company  ( Compahm  Naviera 
Mexicana,  S.  A.),  with  headquarters  in  Mexico  City  (General 
Offices,  Calle  de  Gante  No.  19,  Torcuato  Mar  cor,  General 
Agent),  maintains  a frequent  and  excellent  service  (very 
popular,  clean,  fast,  modern,  well-equipped  ships;  good  food, 
low  fares)  from  New  Orleans  ( Arturo  M.  Elias , Agent)  to 
Tampico  ( Fernando  I.  Barrenechea , Agent),  Vera  Cruz 
( Alejo  Bay , Agent),  Progreso  ( Emilio  Marco  y Cia,  Agents), 
and  other  Mexican  Ports.  — Puerto  Mexico  ( Pedro  Ruiz , 


STEAMSHIP  LINES  FROM  CALIFORNIA  xxxvi q 

Agente),  Frontera  ( Antonio  Villa  G.,  Agente),  Laguna 
(. Manuel  Romero  y Hermano,  Agentes),  and  Campeche 
(. Domingo  Diego , Sues.,  Agentes).  For  ports  of  connection,  sail- 
ing dates,  rates  of  passage,  etc.,  consult  (English  spoken)  any 
of  the  company  agents.  The  short  trips  on  the  coastwise  ships 
to  the  picturesque  ports  of  Southern  Mexico,  between  historic 
Vera  Cruz  and  the  little-known  but  intensely  interesting 
shores  of  Yucatan  (magnificent  ruins,  and  the  ancient  Maya 
civilization,  etc.)  make  delightful  excursions.  Here  primitive 
Mexico  and  the  architectural  records  of  the  people  who 
settled  it  thousands  of  years  before  Columbus  was  born,  are 
seen  and  studied  to  the  best  advantage. 

The  Pacific  Ocean  Service  of  the  Mexican  Navigation  Co.  is 
mentioned  hereinafter. 

The  Mexican  States  Line  ( Compania  de  los  Estados  Mexi- 
canos,  S.  A.)  operates  a frequent  service  (excellent  big,  fast 
ships  of  modern  construction,  with  passenger  accommoda- 
tions, comforts,  food,  amusements,  etc.  equal  to  those  of  trans- 
Atlantic  liners  — very  popular)  between  San  Francisco 
(Williams,  Dimond  & Co.,  Agts.),  San  Pedro,  Los  Angeles 
( Los  Angeles  General  S.  S.}  Agents),  Ensenada,  Lower  Cali- 
fornia ( Goldbaum  & Ojeda,  Agts.),  San  Jose  del  Cabo,  L.  C. 
(Jesus  C.  Ojeda,  Agt.),  La  Paz  (Antonio  Ruffo,  Agt.),  Santa 
Rosalia  (Rodolfo  Garayzar,  Agt.),  Guaymas,  Mexico  (J.  A. 
McPherson  & Co.,  Agts.),  Topolobampo  (Predado  Hermanos , 
Agts.),  Mazatlan  (G.  S.  Coppel  & Bro .,  Agts.),  San  Blas 
(Alberto  P.  Reynaud,  Agt.),  Puerto  Vallarta  (Lauro 
Morett,  Agt.),  Manzanillo  (JoseS.  Razura,  Agt.),  Acapulco 
(Hudson,  Billings  & Co.,  Agts.),  Puerto  Angel  (Empresa 
de  Alijos  de  Puerto  Angel,  Agts.),  S alina  Cruz  (Baldomero 
Jimenez,  Agt.),  thence  southward  to  various  ports  in  Guate- 
mala, Salvador,  and  Nicaragua  — where  trans-shipment  is 
made  for  many  points  in  Central  and  South  America.  Trans- 
shipment is  also  made  from  the  chief  Mexican  Ports  to  minor 
ones  not  listed.  Steamers  connect  at  San  Francisco  with 
others  for  Northern  Pacific  Ports  and  the  Orient;  at 
S alin a Cruz  and  Central  American  Ports  with  ships  for 
European  and  Atlantic  Ports.  At  Salina  Cruz  a direct 
Railway  connection  is  made  to  Puerto  Mexico  and  Vera 
Cruz  and  to  ships  sailing  thence  to  New  Orleans,  New 
York,  Cuba,  and  European  Ports. 

Information  pertaining  to  the  fleet,  time  of  departure,  fares, 
etc.,  can  be  had  from  any  of  the  company’s  agents. 

The  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company  (headquarters  in 
San  Francisco,  508  California  St.,  W.  A.  Young,  Jr.,  General 
Passenger  Agent),  operates  a fleet  of  modern  and  luxurious 
steamers  sailing  at  regular  intervals  (consult  any  of  the  com- 
pany agents)  between  San  Francisco  and  Mazatlan  (Ramon 


xxxvir  STEAMSHIP  LINES  FROM  CALIFORNIA 


Cevallos,  Agent),  San  Blas  ( Dolores  E.  Viuda  de  Lanzagorta, 
Agente),  Manzanillo  ( Adolfo  Stoll  &Co.,  Agents),  Acapulco 
(Hudson,  Billings  & Co.,  Agents),  and S alina Cruz  (Guzman 
& Nyrup,  Agentes) — thence  onward  to  various  ports  in 
Guatemala,  Salvador,  Honduras,  Nicaragua,  Costa 
Rica,  and  the  Panama  Canal  Zone  (where  connections  are 
made  with  the  chief  South  American  ports).  The  service 
(excellent  in  every  detail)  is  a southern  extension  of  the  inter- 
nationally popular  Trans-Pacific  Service  (San  Francisco  to 
Japan  and  China)  of  the  Pacific  Mail  S.  S.  Co.,  the  oldest 
steamship  company  flying  the  American  flag  on  the  Pacific 
Ocean.  Reasonable  rates.  Through  tickets  are  sold  to  points 
in  the  interior  of  Mexico,  and  through  and  across  the  Panama 
Canal.  Interesting  information  relating  to  the  different  serv- 
ices will  be  found  in  the  handsomeh7  illustrated  monthly 
magazine,  the  “Pacific  Mail/’  free  on  request. 

The  Mexican  Navigation  Company  operates  an  excellent 
and  frequent  service  (similar  to  that  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico) 
between  San  Francisco  ( Francisco  Seldner , Agt.),  San 
Pedro,  Cal.  (Los  Angeles  Forwarding  Co.,  Agts.),  San 
Diego,  Cal.  (G.  0.  Beermaker,  Agt.),  Ensenada,  Lower 
Cal.  (Lois  H.  del  Rio,  Agt.),  San  Jose  del  Cabo,  L.  C. 
(Eduardo  Ruiz,  Agt.),  La  Paz,  L.  C.  (IF.  IF esterman,  Agt.), 
Loreto,  L.  C.  (Salvador  Romero,  Agt.),  Mulege,  L.  C. 
(Manuel  Leal , Agt.),  Santa  Rosalia,  L.  C.  (Jose  Ibern,  h. 
Agt.),  Guaymas,  Mex.  (IF.  Iberri  e Hijos  Sues.,  Agentes), 
Topolobampo  (Preciado  Hermanos,  Agts.),  Mazatlan 
(Martin  Careaga,  Agt.),  San  Blas  (A.  Reynaud,  Agt.), 
Puerto  Vallarta  (P.  Maisterrena  e Hijos,  Agts.),  Man- 
zanillo (Alfredo  Ruiseco,  Agt.),  Zihuatanejo  ( Vidal  Castro, 
Agt.),  Acapulco  (B.  Fernandez  & Cia,  Sues.  Agts.),  Puerto 
Angel  (Agenda  Maritima  de  Puerto  Angel,  Agts.),  Minizo 
(Cosme  del  Valle  & Cia,  Agts.),  and  Salina  Cruz  (Sanjurjo, 
Morreres  & Cia,  Agts.).  The  local  agente  in  Guaymas  is  Serwr 
Luis  G.  Iberri.  In  Guadalajara,  Sr.  Axel  Bulle.  For  sailing 
dates,  rates  of  passage,  etc.,  apply  to  any  of  the  agents. 

Railway  Lines  from  the  U.  S.  A. 

Various  Railway  Lines  centre  at  the  Mexican  frontier  and 
connect  there  with  the  National  Railwaj'S  of  Mexico  for  points 
in  the  Republic.  Some  of  these  lines  run  through  the  semi-arid 
regions  of  the  Southwest  and  thus  offer  but  little  novelty  or 
picturesqueness:  others  penetrate  highly  cultivated  districts 
noted  for  attractive  scenery,  fine  fruits,  and  almost  limitless 
resources.  Such  a region  is  that  traversed  by  the  Gulf  Coast 
Lines  from  quaint  and  historic  New  Orleans  — the  most 
delightful  survival  of  the  romantic  Spanish-French-Creole 
cities  of  the  South  before  the  Civil  War  — through  semi- 
tropical  Louisiana  and  Texas  (Beaumont,  Houston,  Galves- 


TRAMWAYS 


XXXVll 


ton,  Corpus  Christi,  etc.)  to  the  rich,  luxuriant,  and  increas- 
ingly celebrated  Lower  Rio  Grande  Valley,  or  Brownsville 
Country,  referred  to  at  p.  12.  Scarcely  a mile  of  the  line  but 
contains  something  of  interest  to  the  traveller:  who  reaps  the 
additional  advantage  of  entering  Mexico  through  Browns- 
ville and  Matamoros,  one  of  its  most  attractive  gateways 
(and  nearest  by  many  miles  to  Washington,  Baltimore,  Phila- 
delphia, New  York,  Boston  and  the  East),  thence  across  the 
fine,  semi-tropical  Mexican  State  of  Tamaulipas  on  the  route 
to  Monterey,  Tampico,  Mexico  City  or  other  points  south. 
Through  Pullman  and  Club  Cafe  Cars  run  from  Houston  to 
Mexican  points,  and  there  are  connecting  Pullmans  at  New 
Orleans  for  the  border. 

From  New  Orleans  eastward  there  is  a choice  of  many  lines, 
each  of  which  runs  through  some  attractive  section  of  the 
South.  New  Orleans  makes  an  ideal  connecting  point,  as  time 
spent  there  is  always  replete  with  charm. 

Tramways  ( tranvias ) are  found  in  nearly  all  the  large  towns 
and  in  many  of  the  smaller  ones.  The  tranvias  elcctricos 
are  rapidly  superseding  the  mule-power  (traction  animal) 
lines.  As  a general  rule,  the  tram-line  connects  the  railway 
station  with  the  main  plaza,  near  which  (in  the  smaller  towns) 
will  be  found  the  hotels,  the  palacio , post-  and  telegraph- 
offices,  and  whatnot.  The  economical  traveller  will  find  the 
cars  generally  convenient,  cheaper  than  cabs,  and  almost 
as  satisfactory.  The  first-class  cars  (fares  usually  6-10  c.  the 
trip,  double  at  night)  are  favored  by  the  foreigners  and  the  bet- 
ter class  natives.  The  second-class  cars  (fares  usually  one  half 
those  of  the  first  class)  are  generally  filled  with  people  of  the 
commonaltv.  Detailed  reference  to  the  lines  of  the  different 
towns  will  be  found  under  the  proper  headings  in  the  Hand- 
book. Where  possible  only  the  correct  change  should  be 
handed  the  conductor.  Where  tickets  are  given  in  exchange 
for  fares,  they  should  be  kept  until  the  inspector  comes  round 
to  punch  them.  The  local  custom  is  to  enter  cars  at  the  rear 
and  pass  out  through  the  front  door.  In  certain  towns  the 
cars  leave  the  central  plaza,  or  their  termini,  for  the  rly.  sta- 
tion, from  one  half  hr.  to  one  hr.  before  trains  arrive  or 
leave.  If  the  last  car  is  missed  the  traveller  may  have  to  make 
the  journey  afoot  — which  may  be  inconvenient  if  one  has 
considerable  luggage.  In  small  towns  cabs  are  not  always 
to  be  had.  Even  in  the  larger  cities  they  are  apt  to  be  scarce 
in  the  early  morning. 

Stage-Coaches  or  Diligences  ( diligencias ) are  still  used  in 
outlying  districts  and  as  links  between  rly.  stations,  mining- 
camps,  and  small  towns.  Distances  are  usually  regulated  and 
paid  for  by  the  trip  — between  objective  points.  To  those 
who  love  the  country  and  its  quaint  inns  and  haciendas , 


AUTOMOBILES 


xxxv  iii 

and  who  do  not  mind  trifling  discomforts,  this  style  of  travel- 
ling possesses  a special  charm.  The  Mexican  country  — bar- 
ring the  dusty,  wind-swept  highlands — is  always  interesting, 
and  the  old  “Concords,”  swung  on  huge  leather  springs  and 
drawn  by  squads  of  racing  mules,  recall  cherished  memories  of 
Colonial  and  less  strenuous  days.  These  diligencias  vibrate  like 
ponderous  shuttles  between  the  places  yet  untouched  by  the 
blighting  hand  of  progress,  but  they  form  a fast-disappearing 
type. 

The  point  of  departure  for  diligencias  is  usually  the  chief 
inn  or  meson  of  the  town;  the  proprietor  is  generally  in  touch 
with  the  administrador  (manager)  of  the  line  ( linea ) , and  hand' 
bills  ( anundos ) quoting  rates  and  departures  are,  as  a rule,  to 
be  found  in  the  hotel  lobbies.  The  front  seats  on  top  of  the 
vehicle  (comp.  p.  151)  are  preferable  to,  and  usually  a bit  dearer 
than,  those  inside  — adentro.  Places  should  be  secured  well 
in  advance.  Diligencias  run  very  irregularly  during  the  rainy 
season,  on  account  of  impassable  roads,  and  the  traveller  should 
not  make  important  matters  hinge  upon  close  connections. 
When  the  roads  are  very  bad  horses  are  often  substituted,  and 
likewise  a lighter  vehicle  called  a guayin  — a species  of  covered 
buckboard.  These  can  always  be  hired  for  small  parties. 
The  average  luggage  allowance  is  10-15  kilos.  Rates  differ 
with  the  character  of  the  country.  On  smooth  roads  ( caminos 
buenos ) about  5 c.  a kilom.  is  charged ; while  three  or  four  times 
this  much  will  be  asked  in  mountainous  districts.  (For  a list  of 
diligences,  time,  and  fares,  consult  the  Guia  Oficial.)  Meals 
are  usually  provided  at  the  coaches’  own  baiting-stations,  at 
reasonable  prices. 

Automobiles.  Automobiling  is  popular  in  Mexico  despite 
the  poor  condition  of  many  of  the  country  roads.  Commodious 
garages,  where  autos  can  be  rented,  are  to  be  found  in  most 
of  the  large  towns.  Before  attempting  to  operate  machines, 
visitors  should  acquaint  themselves  with  the  local  regula- 
tions governing  autos,  as  these  differ  in  different  localities. 
Country  trips  should  not  be  undertaken  without  the  advice 
of  some  friend,  or  of  the  manager  of  the  local  garage.  When 
long  trips  are  contemplated,  the  question  of  a supply  of  fuel 
should  be  considered,  as  gasoline  (which  in  Mex.  costs  from 
80  c.  to  one  peso  a gallon)  is  not  always  to  be  had  in  interior 
towns.  The  roads  in  the  vicinity  of  Mexico  City  are  fairly 
good  — some  are  excellent  — and  the  favorite  runs  are  to 
Toluca , Cuernavaca , the  suburban  towns  of  Tlalpan,  San 
Angel , Xochimilco , etc.,  and  to  the  beautiful  Park  of  CJiapul- 
tepec.  In  Mexico  City  (and  nearly  everywhere  in  the  Repub.) 
the  chauffeur  must  possess  a license,  which  he  can  obtain  only 
after  a proof  of  his  ability  to  manage  a machine.  The  appli- 
cation must  be  made  to  the  Governor  of  the  F ederal  District, 
must  bear  a 50  c.  revenue  stamp,  and  must  state  what  experi- 


HORSES 


XXXIX 


ence  the  applicant  has  had  in  the  running  of  automobiles.  If 
the  license  is  granted,  it  must  bear  a photograph  of  the  appli- 
cant, and  a duplicate  is  kept  in  the  registry  office.  A copy  of 
the  municipal  regulations  governing  autos  can  also  be  had  by 
applying  to  the  Governor.  Each  machine  must  bear  a num- 
ber, which  is  supplied  at  a reasonable  cost.  The  government 
tax  is  based  on  the  power  of  the  machine.  A native  chafer 
gets  from  150  to  250  pesos  a month.  An  international  highway 
between  the  U.  S.  A.  and  Mexico  is  under  construction.  Also 
many  interstate  roads.  Ford  machines  are  widely  used  in 
Mexico  for  public  (taxis)  and  private  purposes. 

There  are  hundreds  of  fine  autos  in  the  capital,  where 
public  automobiles  for  sight-seeing  are  features.  Rates  on 
application  at  the  garages. 


Horses.  Mexico  is  a land  of  horses  ( cahallos ),  many  of  them 
excellent,  and  they  occupy  a prominent  place  in  the  national 
customs  and  economy.  They  were  first  brought  to  Mexico 
by  the  Spaniards,  and  the  prevailing  strain  is  still  Andalusian. 
The  native  breed  is,  as  a rule,  small,  though  wiry  and  endur- 
ing. Most  of  the  large,  fine  horses  one  sees  in  the  Mexican 
capital  are  of  imported  (American)  stock.  The  native  love  for 
horses  is  proverbial,  albeit  the  lower  classes  and  the  Spaniards 
are  not  always  gentle  in  their  treatment  of  them.  The  hacen- 
dados  and  rancheros  (farmers  and  ranchmen)  know  the  value 
of  these  animals,  and  some  possess  well-filled  stables  of  fine 
stock.  Horse-breeding  is  an  extensive  industry  in  certain  of 
the  Mexican  States  — chiefly  those  of  the  Central  Plateau 
and  of  the  north.  Horses  may  be  hired  almost  anywhere,  and 
in  cases  where  the  hotel  does  not  possess  a stable,  the  manager 
usually  knows  where  to  find  the  best  animals.  Prices  in  Mex- 
ico City  range  from  $3-$4  for  a forenoon,  to  $10  a day;  in  the 
smaller  cities  and  towns  good  saddle-horses  can  be  hired  for 
S3.50-S5  a day. 

Thirty-five  or  forty  miles  are  considered  a good  day’s  travel. 
Mex.  saddles  ( sillas  de  montar  — very  comfortable  and  much 
safer  than  English)  are  preferable  for  long  rides.  The  bits 
(frenos)  are  cruel  contrivances,  and  tender-mouthed  animals 
respond  instantly  to  the  slightest  pressure  on  the  bridle  (ri- 
enda).  The  stranger  is  counselled  to  test  the  animal’s  obedi- 
ence to  the  bit  upon  starting  out,  as  a quick  jerk  will  throw 
a sensitive  horse  on  his  haunches  and  perchance  unseat  the 
rider.  A well-padded  saddle  is  requisite  to  comfort  on  a long 
ride.  Mex.  horses  are  so  accustomed  to  the  exaggerated  and 
oftentimes  cruelly  sharp  rowels  ( rodaja  de  espuela)  of  the  na- 
tive spur  ( espuela ) that  a very  slight  heel  pressure  urges  them 
forward;  they  are  hrioso  (spirited)  under  the  whip  ( latigo ), 
which  should  rarely  be  employed. 


xl 


BURROS  — HIGHWAYS 


Those  who  can  ride  only  on  an  English  saddle  should  pro- 
cure one  before  starting,  as  they  are  not  always  available  in 
the  smaller  towns.  Ladies  must  not  expect  to  find  side-sad- 
dles ( silla  de  montar  de  mujer)  in  any  but  the  larger  towns. 
Mexican  women  ride  but  little  on  horseback,  although  donkey 
riding  is  popular.  The  contrivance  used  by  them  is  a sort 
of  chair  ( aparejo ) with  a foot-board  to  rest  the  feet.  Men 
oftentimes  use  these  when  riding  burros,  and  children  find 
them  admirable,  as  they  afford  a good  hold  and  are  restful 
withal.  The  stableman  ( administrador  del  establo ) usually 
sends  a mozo  (on  country  excursions)  to  l#ok  after  the  horses. 
His  services  are  free  (small  propina  acceptable  and  custom- 
ary) , but  his  horse  is  charged  for.  In  remote  places  the  trav- 
eller should  always  call  on  the  Jefe  Politico  (chief  magis- 
trate) , and,  when  necessary,  ask  him  for  an  escort  to  the  next 
town.  This  is  as  a rule  cheerfully  furnished  (fee  to  the  escort 
not  obligatory  but  advisable)  and  the  traveller  thus  keeps  in 
touch  with  the  authorities  and  is  not  lost  sight  of  by  them. 

Burros  (donkeys),  aptly  termed  the  “short  and  simple  ani- 
mals of  the  poor,”  abound  in  Mexico,  where  they  are  much 
used  as  beasts  of  burden ; on  short  excursions  they  are  popular 
substitutes  for  the  horse,  and  are  much  cheaper.  They  are 
always  available  in  the  small  towns  (not  much  used  in  Mex. 
City)  and  they  can  be  hired  from  the  stables,  from  the  head- 
waiter  at  the  hotel,  or  from  any  of  the  lads  who  haunt  the 
hotel  entrances  and  offer  their  services  as  guides.  They  cost 
from  75  c.  to  SI. 50  a day  (usually  50  c.  for  a half  day),  and 
they  should  always  be  accompanied  by  a driver  — arriero  — 
(small  fee) , as  they  are  contumacious  and  refuse  to  walk  ( andar ) 
unless  continually  prodded.  They  are  not  speedy,  and  they 
stumble  easily  when  hurried.  Saddles  can  generally  be  had  for 
the  asking,  although  the  soft  pads  are  more  comfortable  and 
less  trying  on  the  leg  muscles.  The  aparejo  is  recommended 
for  ladies  and  children.  A short,  sharp  stick  (or  a pointed  lead- 
pencil)  carried  in  the  pocket  will  often  rescue  the  animal  from 
a sound  sleep  in  the  middle  of  the  road.  Burro  is  the  word 
used  in  an  effort  to  accelerate  the  burro’s  speed. 

Highways.  With  very  few  exceptions  the  Mex.  highways 
( caminos  reales ) are  safe.  Since  the  introduction  of  automo- 
biles. the  roads  between  certain  of  the  larger  cities  have  been 
improved : new  stretches  are  being  opened  from  time  to  time. 

The  native  travellers  one  meets  on  the  highroads  often 
have  vague  ideas  of  distances.  A league  ( una  legua  — about 
3 Eng.  miles)  and  a kilometre  (un  kil&metro  — f of  1 M.)  are 
susceptible  of  wide  variations  in  the  native  mind.  No  may 
lejos  — not  very  far  — should  be  taken  with  a grain  of  salt; 
likewise  lejitos  (somewhat  distant) , which  may  be  interpreted 
as  1 or  20  M.  On  the  Mex.  table-land,  where  the  air  is  rare. 


POST-OFFICES 


xli 


sight  is  not  dependable.  A mountain  which  looks  within  easy 
walking  distance  may  be  50  M.  away.  The  fantastic  mirage 
increases  the  uncertainty.  Before  breakfast  strolls  should  be 
taken  with  this  in  mind. 

The  rude  crosses,  the  traveller  often  sees  by  the  roadside,  usually 
mark  the  spot  where  some  unfortunate  has  met  a violent  death. 

IV.  Post-Office.  Telegraph-Office.  Telephones.  Weights  and 
Measures.  Time. 

Post-offices  ( oficinas  de  correo)  in  interior  towns  are  usually 
in  or  near  the  palacio  federal  or  the  p.  municipal , which,  in 
turn,  are  customarily  found  facing  the  Plaza  de  la  Consti- 
tution (comp.  p.  liii).  The  larger  cities  are  provided  with 
branch-offices  ( sucursales ) . Street  boxes  ( buzones ) are  usually 
painted  red  to  differentiate  them  from  the  blue  boxes  of  the 
Telegraph  Co.  Important  letters  should  be  posted  by  the 
writer  himself.  The  traveller  can  frequently  save  time  by 
mailing  his  letters  at  the  hotel  office,  where  stamps  ( timbres  de 
correo)  are  nearly  always  obtainable.  Addresses  should  be 
written  simply  and  legibly;  English  abbreviations  should  be 
eschewed,  as  they  are  oftentimes  unintelligible  to  the  post- 
man ( cartero ).1  Eliminate  Esquire;  also  P.  O.  Box.  Instead 
of  the  latter,  put  Apartado . Always  give  the  street  ( calle ) 
number  where  possible,  or  the  name  of  the  hotel  at  which 
the  traveller  is  stopping.  Adentro  is  within ; upper  floor  is  altos. 
Letters  sent  from  towns  in  the  interior  to  the  capital  are 
addressed  to  the  recipient  at  Mexico,  D.  F.  (. Distrito  Fede- 
ral). This  also  applies  to  suburban  towms  in  this  district,  for 
example:  Mr.  John  Brown , Tacuhaya , D.  F . It  is  important 
to  learn  the  State  in  which  a town  is  located  and  to  add  it  to 
the  address.  (For  a list  of  Mexican  States  ( estados ) and  the 
abbreviations  generally  employed,  see  p.  cxxiv.)  The  usual 
form  of  address  with  Mexicans  is:  Al  Sr.  Dn  Fulano  de  Tal, 
Mexico , D.  F. ; Seiior a Doha  Dolores  de  Mengano,  Cuernavaca , 
Est.  de  Morelos;  Srita.  Concepcion  de  Garcia,  Vera  Cruz, 
Ver. 

The  abbreviation  for  Sehor  is  Sr. ; for  Don , Dn ; for  Seho - 
rita,  Srita. ; for  Sehora,  Sra. ; for  State,  Est. 

Most  Mexicans  append  to  their  signatures  a Rubrica,  which 
is  a sort  of  intricate  flourish,  like  a Runic  knot,  an  Oriental 
sign-manual,  or  a batch  of  chilly  angleworms.  Some  only 
rubricate , and  do  not  write  their  names.  Widows  ( viudas ) are 
usually  addressed  as  such;  for  instance:  La  Sra.  Viuda  de 
Hernandez  (Mr.  Hernandez’  widow) . Mexicans  often  have  long 
names,  and  it  is  not  unusual  for  them  to  leave  off  the  last  one 

1 More  than  one  and  a half  million  pieces  of  mail-matter,  insufficiently 
or  illegibly  addressed,  enter  the  dead  letter  department  of  the  Mex.  P.  O. 
each  year. 


xlii 


POST-OFFICES  — TELEGRAPHS 


and  use  only  the  initial,  as:  Juan  Zutano  de  G.  (meaning,  per- 
haps, Garcia , or  something  of  the  sort) . 

Postal  Rates  ( tarifas  postales ) are  a bit  higher  than  in  the 
U.  S.  A.,  and  are  subject  to  change.  Ordinary  sealed  letters 
within  a town  or  its  suburbs,  2 c.  for  20  grammes  {gramos)  or 
fraction  ( fraccion ).  To  points  ypthin  the  Republic,  10  c.  To 
Spain  and  countries  on  the  American  continent,  10  c.  Other 
countries  of  the  Postal  Union  ( union  postal)  20  c. 

Ordinary  Post-cards  ( tarjetas  postales  ordinarias)  2 c. 
within  the  Republic.  To  Spain  and  the  Americas,  4 c.  To 
other  Postal  Union  countries,  12  c.  Cards  with  prepaid  reply, 
5,  10  and  20  c.  Cards  of  a pornographic  nature  are  not  ac- 
cepted for  transportation. 

Postal  Money  Orders  ( giros  postales)  are  cheap  and  safe: 
they  are  issued  to  many  points  in  the  Repub.  and  to  the  U.  S.  A. 
at  the  following  rates:  Up  to  $10,  20  c.;  $20,  30  c.;  $30,  40  c.; 
$40,  50  c.;  $50,  60  c.;  and  so  on  up  to  $100,  $1. 

Registered  Letters  {cartas  certificadas)  and  parcels  ( bultos ) 
should  be  presented  at  the  office  at  least  two  hours  before  the 
departure  of  trains.  Information  covering  this,  and  other 
points,  is  usually  to  be  found  posted  on  the  correo  wall.  Neither 
stamps  nor  money  should  be  sent  in  registered  letters.  One 
is  usually  asked  to  state  the  contents  of  a package  sent 
registered.  Registration  {certificaeion)  20  c.  in  the  Repub.  or 
abroad.  10  c.  extra  if  a receipt  signed  by  the  recipient  is 
demanded. 

Merchandise  {mercancias)  may  be  sent  by  parcel  post 
( bultos  postales)  at  rates  about  like  those  in  vogue  in  other 
countries.  Different  regulations  apply  to  different  countries, 
and  as  minor  changes  are  often  made,  the  traveller  is  advised 
to  consult  the  postmaster  or  some  business  friend  before  mak- 
ing up  packages.  The  acceptable  weight  ranges  from  1 to  5 
kilogrammes  (2t2q  to  11  pounds),  the  latter  being  the  maxi- 
mum. 

There  is  a C.  O.  D.  delivery  system  {gravamen  con  reembolso) 
in  vogue  within  the  Republic. 

Printed  Matter  {impresos)  falls  under  2d,  3d,  4th,  and 
mixed  matter,  in  its  classification,  with  different  rates  applying 
to  different  articles.  Consult  the  Postal  Regulations  for  details. 

Aerial  Service  {servicio  aereo)  rates  are  considerably  higher 
than  those  of  the  ordinary  means  of  communication. 

Useful  words  and  phrases: 

Letter,  carta  (car-tah) 

Letter-box,  buzon  (boo-zohn) 

Registered  letter,  carta  c-ertificada 

(cahr-tah  sere-tee-fee-cah-dah) 


TELEGRAPHS  xliii 

Special  delivery,  entrega  especial  (en-tray-gah  es-peh-see-ahl) 
Mailing,  envio  por  correo  (en-ve-oh  pohr  cohr-ray-oh) 

Postpaid,  porte  pagado  (pohr-teh  pah-gah-doh) 

Postmaster,  administrador  de  correos 

(ahd-me-nees-trah-door  day  cohr-ray-ohs) 

Postmark,  estampilla  de  correo 

(es-tahm-pee-yah  day  cohr-ray-oh) 

General  delivery,  entrega  general  (en-tray-gah  heh-nay-rahl) 
Branch  P.  O.  sucursal  de  correo 
(soo-coor-sahl  day  cohr-ray-oh) 

Are  there  any  letters  (mail)  for  me?  Mr.  . . . Mrs.  . . . 
Miss.  . . . ? 

$hay  algunas  cartas  para  ml f senor , senora,  senorita?  (eye 

ahl-goo-nahs  cahr-tahs  pah-rah  me  — sane-your,  sane-yoh-rah, 
sane-yo-ree-tah) 

When  does  the  mail  close?  & cudndo  se  sierra  el  correo f 

kwahn-doh  say  see-eh-rah  el  cohr-ray-o 
How  many  stamps  does  this  require? 

ficuantas  estampillas  necesita  esta? 

(kwahn-tahs  es-tam-pee-yahs  nay-say- see-tah  es-tah) 
Mail,  correspondencia  (cor-res-pohn-den-sea-ah) 

P.  O.  box,  avartado  (ah-pahr-tah-doh) 

To  register  a letter,  certificar  una  carta 

(sere-tee-fee-cahr  oo-nah  cahr-tah) 

To  seal,  sellar;  (seh-yahr);  sealed,  sellado  (seh-yah-doh) 
Parcel  post,  paquete  postal  (pah-queh-teh  pohs-tahl) 

Postage,  franqueo ; stamp,  estampilla 

(frahn-kay-oh)  (es-tahm-pee-yah) 

Postman,  cartero;  postcard,  tarjeta  postal 

(cahr-teh-ro)  (tahr-heh-tah  pohs-tahl) 

Postal  order,  giro  postal  (he-ro  pohs-tahl) 

Printed  matter,  impresos ; samples,  muestras 

(eem-preh-sohs)  (moo-es-trahs) 

ist  class,  prim, era  clase ; 2d,  segundo 

(pre-meh-rah  clah-say)  (say-goon-dah) 

I want  some  stamps,  please  quiero  algunas  estampillas , favor 
(key-eh-ro  ahl-goo-nahs  es-tam-pee-yahs,  fah-vohr) 

The  Telegraph  Lines  ( h'neas  telegrdficas) , of  which  there 
are  upward  of  45,000  miles,  are  under  Government  control: 
they  connect  the  capital  with  all  the  important  towns  and 
provide  a cheap  and  efficient  service.  Messages  ( mensajes ) 
within  the  Republic  are  charged  (according  to  distance) 
for  each  ten  words,  with  a small  extra  charge  for  each  addi- 
tional word.  The  railway  telegraphs  do  not,  as  a rule,  com- 
pete with  the  Telegrafos  Federates , but  they  will  accept  mes- 
sages under  certain  circumstances  — in  cases,  for  instance, 
where  there  is  no  Government  office  near.  Messages  can  be 
written  in  French,  Spanish,  or  English;  an  economy  can  usu- 


xliv 


RADIO  SERVICE  — TELEPHONES 


ally  be  effected  (over  the  English)  by  writing  messages  in 
Spanish.  Addresses  should  be  written  legibly  and  abbrevia- 
tions avoided.  The  operators  are,  as  a rule,  intelligent  and 
trustworthy.  Urgent  telegrams  \telegramas  urgentes),  taking 
precedence  over  all  others,  may  be  sent  for  double  the  ordinary 
rate.  As  a rule,  night  messages  ( mensajes  de  noche)  are  not 
accepted  at  the  offices  until  after  10  p.  m.  A centavo  is  charged 
for  a signed  receipt  (which  should  always  be  demanded),  for 
money  paid.  This  revenue  stamp  is  affixed  to  the  telegram. 

Many  of  the  minor  telegraph-offices  close  at  7 p.  m.  ; others 
remain  open  till  midnight. 

Radio  Service  ( servido  radio-telegrafico) . Certain  of  the 
larger  offices  are  equipped  with  radio  outfits  and  operate  a 
radio  service;  messages  cost  more  than  those  sent  over  the 
wires.  — Wireless  Telegraphy  is  telegrafia  sin  hilos.  — A wire- 
less message  is  un  telegrama  inalambrica  or  radiograma.  — 
Wireless  station,  estadon  inalambrica . 

Cablegrams  ( cablegramas ) via  the  Cable  Submarine  (or  over 
the  Government  land  wires  to  the  frontier,  thence  through 
the  U.  S.  A.)  usually  go  byway  of  Galveston  (to  the  U.  S.) 
by  the  submarine  lines  of  the  Compahia  Telegrajica  Mexicana. 
The  cable  rate  to  points  in  the  U.  S.  and  Canada  is  usually 
about  S3. 50  for  ten  words  or  less,  with  an  extra  charge  of  24  c. 
for  each  additional  word : no  charge  for  address  or  signature. 
The  average  charge  per  word  (signature  and  address  charged 
for)  to  Europe  is  SI  .00 ; to  Cuba,  70  c.;  to  Central  and  S . Amer- 
ica, from  30  c.  (to  Guatemala)  to  S2.50  (to  points  in  Brazil). 

Telephones  ( telefonos ) are  now  to  be  found  in  many  parts  of 
Mexico  and  the  system  is  being  rapidly  extended.  The  best 
service  is  operated  in  Mexico  City,  by  the  Empresa  de  Tele- 
fonos Ericsson , S.  A.  (under  whose  immediate  control  are  the 
Puebla,  Toluca,  Pachuca,  and  other  systems).  The  capital  is 
now  connected  telephonically  ( telefonicamente ) with  these  and 
other  near-by  places  and  the  radius  widens  almost  daily. 

Public  Telephones  are  popular  and  are  widely  used.  In 
many  cases  a box  type  of  'phone  is  used,  upon  which  the 
receiver  (el  microtelefono ) rests  in  a horizontal  position.  When 
this  is  lifted,  central  (central)  answers  and  the  aspirant  asks 
for  a certain  number  — favor  de  comunicarme  con  el  numero . 
...  If  the  number  desired  happens  to  be  8-15,  one  says  ocho- 
quince.  If  it  is  1-14-04,  one  says  uno-catorce-cero-cuairo ; if  it 
be  2-77  one  says  dos-siete-siete , or  if  it  be  17-12  one  can  say 
diez  y siete  uno-dos,  etc.  When  the  connection  is  made  central 
says,  listo  (ready).  If  the  operator  (la  telefonista)  says  estd 
ocupado,  it  means  the  line  is  busy;  and  one  hangs  up  the  re- 
ceiver. — Bueno  (bway-noh)  is  generally  employed  to  mean 
hello? 


WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES 


xlv 


Useful  words  and  phrases: 

i,  uno  (oo-no);  2,  dos  (dose);  3,  tres  (trace);  4,  cuatro  (quah- 
tro);  5,  cinco  (sing-co);  6,  seis  (sace);  7,  siete  (se-eh-teh);  8, 
ocho  (oh-cho);  9,  nueve  (noo-eh-veh) ; 10,  diez  (de-es);  n,  once 
(ohn-say);  12,  doce  (doh-say);  13,  trace  (tray-seh);  14,  catorce 
(cah-tohr-say) ; 15,  quince  (keen-say);  16,  diez  y seis  (de-es  e 
sace);  17,  diez  y siete  (de-es  e se-eh-teh);  18,  diez  y ocho  (de-es 
e o-cho);  19,  diez  y nueve  (de-es  e noo-eh-veh);  20,  veinte 
(vane-tee);  21,  veinte  y uno  (vane-teh  e oo-no);  30,  treinta 
(train-tah);  31,  treinta  y uno;  40,  quarenta  (quah-ren-tah) ; 
50,  cincuenta  (sin-quen-tah) ; 60,  sesenta  (say-sen-tah) ; 70, 
setenta  (say-ten-tah) ; 80,  ochenta  (o-chen-tah) ; 90,  noventa 
(no-ven-tah) ; 100,  cien  (se-en);  101,  ciento  y uno  (se-en-toh  e 
oo-no)  200,  doscientos  (dose-se-en-tohs) ; 300,  trescientos 

(trace-se-en-tohs) ; 400,  cuatrocientos  (quah-tro-se-en-tohs) ; 
500,  quinientos  (key-ne-en-tohs) ; 1000,  mil  (meal);  2000,  dos 
mil. 

I want  to  telephone  to  Mrs.  . . . quiero  telefonear  a la  Sehora  . . . 

(key-eh-ro  teh-lay-fo-nay-ar  ah  lah  sane-yoh-rah) 

Is  this  central?  ^ hablo  con  la  oficina  central f 

(ah-blo-cohn  lah  oh-fee-sea-nah  cen-trahl) 

I would  like  to  speak  to  Mr.  . . . quisiera  hablar  con  el  sehor.  . . 

(key-sea-eh-rah  ah-blahr  cone  el  sane-your  . . .) 

Please  hold  the  wire  a moment,  Miss  . . . 

espere  un  momento  en  el  aparatoy  senorita . . . (es-peh-ray  oon 

mo-men-toh  en  el  ah-pah-rah-toh  sane-yo-ree-tah) 

Kindly  speak  English,  sirvase  hablar  en  ingles 
(syr-vah-say  ah-blahr  en  ing-lace) 

Wait  a moment,  please,  aguarde  un  minuto 

(ah-wahr-day  oon  me-noo-toh) 

Please  call  ...  to  the  ’phone  favor  de  llamar . . . al  telefono 
(fah-vohr  day  yah-mahr  . . . ahl  teh-leh-fo-no) 
Distance  ( distancia ) in  Mexico  is  nearly  always  computed 
in  kilometros , though  leagues  ( leguas ) sometimes  are  employed. 
When  a place  is  quite  far  off  it  is  usually  referred  to  as  muy 
retirado  (very  remote).  Reasonably  far  is  lejos;  not  very  far, 
lejitos. 

Mexican  and  American  Weights  and  Measures.  The 

Weights  and  Measures  ( pesas  y medidas)  of  the  Metric  Sys- 
tem ( sistema  metrica)  were  introduced  in  1856,  and  by  a law 
of  1895  were  declared  the  only  legal  weights  and  measures  in 
the  Republic.  Albeit  this  law  became  compulsory  in  1896, 
many  of  the  Indians  and  other  ignorant  persons  use  the  old 
Spanish  measures.  In  the  draper’s  shops  goods  are  sold  both 
by  the  Spanish  vara  — yard  — (see  below) , and  by  the  metro , 
(metre),  which  is  subdivided  into  centimetros  (centimetres) 
and  milimetros  (millimetres)  — and  T^oo  °f  a metre 
respectively. 


xlvi 


WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES 


TABLE  OF  KILOMETRES  AND  MILES 
( Tabla  de  kilometres  y millas). 


1 Kilometre  0.62  mile. 

20  kilometres  12.43  miles. 

2 

1.24  “ 

30 

“ 

18.64 

44 

3 

1.86  “ 

40 

44 

24.86 

44 

4 

2.49  “ 

50 

44 

31.07 

44 

5 

3.11  “ 

60 

44 

37.28 

44 

6 

3.73  “ 

70 

44 

43.50 

44 

7 

4.35  “ 

80 

44 

49.71 

44 

8 

4.97  “ 

90 

44 

55.92 

9 

5.59  “ 

100 

44 

62.14 

10 

6.21  “ 

LAND  OR 

AGRARIAN  MEASURES  ( Medida  Agrarid). 

Spanish  name. 

Nearest  English 
equivalent. 

Length 

(varas). 

Breadth 

(varas). 

Hectares. 

Acres. 

Hacienda 

Sitio  de  ganado  mayor. 
Sitio  de  ganado  menor. 
Fundo  legal  para  pue- 
blo   

Labor  

Caballeria  de  tierra. . . 
Fanega  sembradura  de 

maiz 

Solar  para  casa,  moii- 
no,  o venta 


Plantation 

Cow  ranch 

Sheep  ranch  

Legal  town  site  

Field  

Knighthold  of  land 
Sowing  ground  for 
1 fanega  of  corn... 
Site  for  house,  mill, 
or  inn 


25,<K)0 

5.000 
3,333i 

1,200 

1.000 

1,104 

276 

50 


5,000 

5.000 
3,3331 

1,200 

1.000 

552 

184 

50 


8,778.0500000 

1,755.6100000 

780.2711111 


21.697.000 

4,339.400 

1,928.133 


101.1231360 

70.2244000 

42.7953111 


244.140 

175.532 

105.751 


3.5662759 


8.813 


.1755610 


.434 


CUBIC  MEASURE  (cubico). 

cubic  meter  cubic  yard 

1 cubic  vara  0.588480  0.769734 

1 “ pie  (foot)  0.021795  0.769484 

1 “ palmo  (palm)  0.009195  0.324634 


DRY  MEASURE  ( para  aridos ). 

liters  (litros) 


1 carga 
1 fanega 

1 almud 

1 cuartillo 


2 fanegas 
12  almudes 

4 cuartillos 


181.629775 

90.814888 

7.567907 

1.891977 


Bushels 
5.154357 
2=577178 
Pecks 
0.859109 
Dry  quarts 
1.718122 


OIL  MEASURE  ( aceite ). 

Litei  U.  S.  liquid  quart 

1 cuartillo  0.506162  0.534870 


WINE  MEASURE  (vino). 

Liter  U.  S.  liq.  qt. 

1 cuartillo  0.456264  0.482140 


PRECIOUS  METAL  WEIGHTS  (metales  preciosos ). 


Kilogrammes  Ounces  avoir. 


1 marco 

8 onzas  (ounces) 

0.230123 

8.1184 

1 onza 

8 ochavas  (eighths) 

0.028765 

1.0148 

1 ochava 

6 tomines  (£  of  a drachm) 

0.003596 

0.12685 

Grains 

1 tomin 
1 grano 

12  granos  (grains) 

0.000599 

0.0000499 

9.25920 

0.77160 

WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES 


xlvii 


LINEAR  MEASURE  ( medida  de  longitud). 


1 legua  (league) 

5000  varas 

4.19  kilom. 

2.604375  m.i 

1 vara 

3 pies 

0.83800  meter  2.749578  ft. 

1 pie 

12  pul  gad  as 

0.27933  “ 

0.916526  ft. 

1 pulgada  (inch) 

12  lineas  (lines)  0.02328  “ 

0.916526  in. 

1 linea 

0.00194 

0.076377  in. 

SUPERFICIAL 

OR  SQUARE 

MEASURE  (jnedidas  cuadradas). 

1 square  league 

1.755.61  hectares 

4.339.4  acres 

1 “ 

vara 

0.702244  sq.  meter 

7.559000  sq.  ft. 

1 “ 

pie 

0.078027  ‘ 

4 44 

0.839888  “ “ 

1 “ 

palmo 

0.043890  ‘ 

l “ 

68.03094  “ in. 

1 “ 

pulgada 

0.000542  4 

0.87012  “ in. 

COMMERCIAL  WEIGHTS  ( pesas  comerciales ). 

Kilogrammes 

U.  S.  lbs.  avoir. 

1 quintal 

4 arrobas 

46.024634 

101.444 

1 arroba 

25  libras  (lbs.) 

11.506159 

25.361 

1 libra 

16  ounces 

0.460246 

1.01444 

ounces  avoir. 

1 onza 

1 6 adarmes 

0.028765 

1.0148 

1 adarme  36  granos 

0.001798 

0.06343 

grains  avoir. 

1 grano 

0.0000499 

0.77160 

1 Carga  (a  weight  used  in  freighting)  equals  12  arrobas  = 300  libras 
= 138.073902  kilos=304.332  U.  S.  lbs.  avoirdupois. 

A dozen  is  una  docena ; a gross,  una  gruesa.  Ton =tonelada.  The 
kilogramo  is  subdivided  into  1000  gramos= 0.0022046  lbs. 

The  Standard  (French)  metre  or  unit  of  measurement  is  defined  as 
the  ten  millionth  part  of  the  terrestrial  meridian,  or  the  distance  from 
the  equator  to  the  Pole,  passing  through  Paris. 

For  practical  purposes  1 kilom.  equals  f of  1 Eng.  mile.  8 kilom.,  5 
miles.  To  convert  kilom.  into  miles,  divide  by  8 and  multiply  by  5.  To 
convert  miles  into  kilom.,  multiply  by  8 and  divide  by  5. 

An  approximate  rule  for  converting  meters  or  parts  into  yards  is  to 
add  one  eleventh  part  or  .0909.  An  approximate  method  of  converting 
meters  into  inches  is  to  multiply  by  40.  To  convert  inches  into  meters 
divide  by  40. 

To  convert  kilogrammes  into  lbs.,  divide  by  4536;  to  convert  lbs.  into 
kilos,  multiply  by  22046. 

The  Centigrade,  rather  than  the  Fahrenheit  thermometer  ( termdmetro ) 
is  used  in  Mexico. 

As  the  majority  of  Americans  are  familiar  with  Fahrenheit  thermo- 
meters, and  as  Centigrade  instruments  are  commonly  used  in  Mexico,  the 
traveller  may  like  to  remember  the  following  tables  for  reducing  — 

Fahrenheit  to  Centigrade.  If  above  zero.  — Multiply  difference  be- 
tween number  of  degrees  and  32  by  5,  and  divide  product  by  9. 

Thus,  212°  - 32°  X 5^  9=  180°  X 5-h  9 = 100°. 

If  below  zero.  — Add  32  to  number  of  degrees,  multiply  sum  by  5,  and 
divide  product  by  9. 

Thus.  40°  + 32°X5-7-9  = 72°X5-f-9  = — 40°. 

Centigrade  to  Fahrenheit.  If  above  freezing-point.  — Multiply 
number  of  degrees  by  9,  divide  product  by  5,  and  add  32  to  quotient. 

Thus,  100°  X 9-^5  = 180°,  and  180°  + 32=  212°. 

If  below  freezing-point.  — Multiply  number  of  degrees  by  9,  divide 
product  by  5,  and  take  difference  between  32  and  quotient. 

Thus,  10°  X 9-^-5=  18°,  and  18°  c/>  32=14°. 


1 A marine  league  ’s  6.662§  varas. 


xlviii 


HOTELS 


Time  {el  tiempo).  Official  Mexican  Time  corresponds  (since 
Jan.  1,  1922)  to  Mountain  Time  ft 05  W.  of  Greenwich)  in  the 
U.  S.  A.,  so  that  it  is  one  hour  slower  than  the  time  used  at  the 
frontier  stations  between  Brownsville  and  El  Paso,  Texas 
(which  uses  Mt.  Time).  Exceptions  to  this  are  the  Mexican 
States  of  Tabasco,  Chiapas,  and  the  Peninsula  of  Yucatan, 
which  employ  Central  (or  90th  Meridian)  Time. 

A recent  government  decree  legalized  the  use  of  the  24-hour 
clock,  but  it  met  with  such  disfavor  that  there  has  been  a 
general  reversion  to  the  old  system  of  dividing  the  day  into 
two  parts  of  twelve  hours  each.  In  certain  quarters  the  double 
symbols  are  employed,  and  in  others  the  custom  of  saying 
13  hours  {trece  horas ) instead  of  1 p.  m.  Railways  and  other 
important  enterprises  use  the  a.  m.  and  p.  m.  classification. 

V.  Hotels.  Eoarding- Houses.  Cafes.  Baths. 

Cargadores. 

Hotels.  As  a general  rule,  the  hotels  of  Mexico  cannot  be 
compared,  in  point  of  luxury  and  convenience,  to  the  splendid 
and  costly  establishments  in  certain  American  cities,  but  the 
first-class  places  — hoteles  de  primera  close  — of  the  most  fre- 
quented resorts,  are  quite  comfortable,  though  sometimes 
primitive  enough  in  their  construction  and  management: 
what  the  others  lack  in  modern  appointments  they  usually 
make  up  in  picturesqueness.  Certain  hostelries  in  the  countiy 
towns  are  converted  seigniorial  houses,  or  great,  rambling 
palacios,  with  one  or  more  flower-decked  patios  with  long,  cool, 
cloister-like  halls  opening  on  to  them.  A new  type  of  hotel 
(usually  under  American  management)  is  springing  up  in  the 
most  frequented  places,  with  modern  conveniences  as  special 
features.  The  best  are  apt  to  be  expensive.  While  the  critical 
traveller  may  note  many  shortcomings,  particularly  in  the 
country  inns,  in  the  matter  of  modern  electrical  devices  and 
conveniences,  he  should  bear  in  mind  that  the  architecture  is 
suited  to  the  climate,  and  that  the  natural  indolence  of  the 
native  does  not  express  itself  in  swift  elevators  and  in  those 
expensive  — and  oftentimes  useless  — luxuries  which  are  a 
part  of  the  strenuous  American  life.  It  may  justly  be  said  that 
there  is  a revival  of  interest  in  the  making  of  new  and  better 
hotels  for  the  proper  housing  of  the  many  tourists  who  annu- 
ally visit  the  Republic. 

Mexico  City,  Guadalajara,  Tampico,  Cuernavaca,  and  a 
few  other  places  in  Mexico  now  possess  good  and  comfortable 
hotels  with  modern  conveniences  and  the  food  and  service 
required  by  Americans  accustomed  to  life  in  American  hotels. 
The  best  hotels  now  have  baths,  elevators,  electric  lights  and 
many  comforts  not  characteristic  of  the  Mexico  hotels  of  a 
decade  ago.  The  writer  has  carefully  inspected  the  hotels  in 
the  different  cities  frequented  by  tourists,  and  those  worthy 


HOTELS 


xlix 


of  commendation  will  be  found  mentioned  in  their  proper 
places  in  the  guidebook. 

The  shortcomings  of  certain  Mexican  hotels  do  not,  as  a 
rule,  spring  from  indifference  or  lack  of  a desire  to  please  when 
the  wishes  of  the  guests  are  known.  In  most  cases  the  houses 
are  under  the  direct  supervision  of  the  proprietors,  who  do 
everything  they  know  how  to  make  their  foreign  guests  com- 
fortable. The  fact  that  in  many  country  inns  boliches  (ten-pin 
alleys)  are  more  in  evidence  than  toilet  con  veniences,  and  that 
many  of  the  hotel  managers  have  not  yet  awakened  to  the 
propriety  of  providing  separate  toilet  rooms  for  men  and 
women,  is  due  more  to  ignorance  than  intentional  neglect. 

It  is  greatly  to  the  credit  of  the  Mexican  Boniface  that  he 
seldom  resorts  to  the  low  trickery  practised  on  unsuspecting 
travellers  abroad  by  the  managers  of  so-called  first-class  Euro- 
pean hotels.  Errors  in  accounts  are  not  always  in  favor  of  the 
house;  and  the  manager,  not  the  servants,  runs  the  establish- 
ment. Bills  are  payable  at  the  cashier’s  desk  ( al  cajero),  and 
are  not  presented  by  covetous  menials  who  expect  ( they  only 
know  why)  a large  percentage  of  the  amount  due.  Nor  are 
these  servants  allowed  to  hunt  the  guests  from  their  apart- 
ments to  the  street  or  railway  station,  on  their  departure, 
and  thus  engender  the  discomfited  feeling  so  well  under- 
stood by  travellers  of  modest  means  and  with  principles  of 
justice  (compare  Tips,  p.  lix).  A Mexican  hosteler o wTould 
scorn  to  demand  payment  for  a bedroom  candle;  nor  would 
he,  as  a rule,  knowingly  attempt  to  defraud  by  overcharging 
on  his  bill. 

The  traveller  may  sometimes  note  a dearth  of  clean  towTels 
in  certain  native  inns,  but  they  are  usually  promptly  provided 
W'hen  asked  for.  The  soap  is  apt  to  be  cheap  and  lurid,  and 
should  be  avoided.  The  traveller  should  provide  himself  with 
toilet  paper.  Although  some  of  the  inns  in  the  remote  towns 
are  poor  in  appearance,  the  guest  is  rarely  starved.  Mexico  is 
a land  where  chickens,  rice,  honey,  good  beans  ( frijoles ),  fine 
fruits,  palatable  sweets,  and  fairly  good  milk,  bread,  and  coffee 
are  most  always  available.  Mexican  cooking  is  free  of  garlic 
and  is  superior  to  the  Spanish. 

Most  of  the  native  hostelries  are  still  without  baths,  but 
these  are  rapidly  becoming  a feature  of  the  foreign  hotels. 

The  best  hotels  are  supposed  to  furnish  mosquito-nets  ( mos - 
quiteras , or  pabellones)  and  they  should  always  be  asked  for. 
Nor  should  the  aromatic  pastilles  ( pastillas ) for  burning  in 
the  room  be  accepted  in  their  stead,  for  besides  being  inade- 
quate, all  doors  and  windows  must  be  closed,  to  keep  the  fumes 
in,  and  this  is  a procedure  highly  objectionable  to  a lover  of 
fresh  air.  Far  too  often  thin  cotton-sheeting  or  cambric  so 
thick  that  no  breeze  lighter  than  a brisk  gale  will  penetrate 
it,  is  offered  in  lieu  of  the  proper  netting. 


1 


HOTEL  RATES  AND  ROOMS 


It  is  not  easy  to  give  the  names  of  inns  in  every  small  and 
out-of-the-way  place,  as  they  chaise  frequently;  nevertheless 
the  traveller  will  find  this  Handbook  to  contain  the  most  com- 
plete list  published  to  dat^,  with  their  respective  charges.  In 
those  remote  places  where  no  inn  is  mentioned,  it  is  sufficient 
to  say  to  the  cargador  (p.  liifr),  “ Vamos  ol  hotel”  or  “al  me- 
son ” and  he  will  lead  the  way  to  whatever  inn  there  maybe 
in  the  place. 

It  is  still  the  custom  in  many  parts  of  Mexico  for  hotel  run- 
ners ( corredores ) to  meet  trains  and  steamships,  and  solicit 
guests.  Certain  of  the  hotels  run  omnibuses  ( omnibus ) or 
motor  busses  ( camiones ) between  the  hotel  and  the  station  or 
dock,  and  where  there  is  considerable  competition,  no  charge 
is  made  for  this  service.  This  may  sometimes  represent  a 
saving  of  two  or  three  pesos  to  the  traveller,  and  is  a con- 
venience. As  a rule  the  runners  are  responsible,  and  in  the  case 
of  a well-known  hotel  the  traveller  incurs  no  risk  in  deliver- 
ing luggage  to  them.  But  he  must  be  sure  that  the  runner 
represents  the  hotel  he  claims  to.  A common  form  of  thievery 
is  for  a man  to  disguise  himself  as  a hotel  runner,  possess  him- 
self of  valuable  baggage  and  disappear  with  it.  In  case  of 
doubt,  put  hand  luggage  in  a taxi  and  stay  with  it.  Deliver 
checks  for  trunks  to  the  hotel  manager. 

Rates  (la  tarifa ).  The  European  Plan,  in  which  a fixed 
charge  is  made  for  the  room,  thus  leaving  the  guest  to  dine 
where  he  may  wish,  is  becoming  popular  in  the  larger  cities  of 
Mexico,  albeit  in  the  country  towms  the  American  Plan, 
wherein  an  inclusive  charge  is  made  for  room  and  board,  is 
generally  in  vogue.  Certain  of  the  hotels  offer  a choice  of 
s}rstems.  Many  travellers  prefer  the  E.  PL,  as  it  enables  them 
to  breakfast  and  dine  at  the  cafes  and  thus  become  familiar 
with  the  national  dishes  and  the  cosmopolitan  life. 

Certain  hotels  vary  rates  according  to  the  location,  size, 
etc.,  of  the  room,  and  it  remains  for  the  traveller  to  indicate 
the  price  he  wishes  to  pay.  Rooms  overlooking  the  plaza  or  a 
street  are  usually  the  most  expensive  and  the  best.  Those 
opening  on  to  the  second  (or  back)  patio  (where  the  stable  or 
the  kitchen  may  be  located)  are  usually  to  be  avoided.  Some 
hotels  have  two  or  more  schedules  for  the  year,  a maximum 
rate  in  the  height  of  the  season,  and  a lower  one  for  the  summer 
months. 

Travellers  who  contemplate  remaining  more  than  a week  in 
any  hotel  should  alwaj^s  ask  if  the  price  can  be  reduced  — as 
many  of  the  hotels  take  this  into  consideration  and  will  grant  a 
reduction  for  a long  stay.  Irritating  extras  rarely  appear  in  a 
bill  in  a Mexican  hotel;  prices  are  inclusive,  and  hotel  men  as 
a rule  do  not  try  to  fleece  the  stranger  within  their  gates.  An 
idea  of  the  average  prices  charged  in  hotels  in  Mexico  can  be 
gained  by  referring  to  hotels  under  the  different  cities  and 


HOTEL  RATES  AND  ROOMS 


li 


towns  described  in  the  Guidebook.  It  should  be  remembered 
that  the  best  meals  and  the  best  service  are  not  always  con- 
fined to  the  most  pretentious  places. 

The  Rooms  of  the  average  Mexican  hotel  are  as  bare  as 
a monk’s  cell,  and  but  few  are  provided  with  set-bowls  or  run- 
ning water.  On  the  other  hand,  they  are  apt  to  be  two  or  three 
times  as  large  as  American  hotel  rooms,  with  high-beamed 
ceilings,  massive,  heat-excluding  walls  (sometimes  3-6  ft. 
thick),  and  iron  or  wood  balconies  overlooking  a flower-em- 
bowered court  or  a picturesque  street  or  plaza.  The  floors  are 
usually  covered  with  stone,  red-bricks,  or  large  square  tiles, 
over  which  are  thrown  rugs  or  cool  rush  mats  — petates.  Brass 
or  iron  beds  are  popular,  and  usually  comfortable;  albeit  cer- 
tain of  those  in  use  in  the  hotels  on  the  Gulf  Coast  would  poison 
the  sleep  of  the  most  phlegmatic.  The  natives  and  Spaniards 
disdain  well-stuffed  mattresses  ( colchones ) and  soft  pillows 
( almohadas ),  and  the  pillows  one  sometimes  has  to  use  are 
shaped  like  a railway  tie,  and  are  stuffed  with  lumpy  cotton 
of  an  extraordinary  hardness.  In  such  cases  an  air-pillow  is 
almost  indispensable.  In  these  same  hotels  thin  coverlets,  in 
lieu  of  hair-mattresses,  are  spread  over  an  assembly  of  spiral 
wire  springs,  and  the  unfortunate  traveller  who  must  lie  on 
them  gains  the  impression  that  he  is  courting  sleep  on  a bed  of 
irregular  cobblestones.  Sleep  comes  reluctantly  when  one  of 
these  anchorite  beds  falls  to  his  lot.  Hammocks  are  features 
of  the  Yucatan  hotels. 

Few  hotels  are  above  three  stories  in  height,  and  certain  of 
them  possess  two  or  more  patios , one  behind  the  other.  The 
first  court  is  always  the  most  attractive,  and  may  be  adorned 
with  a tinkling  fountain,  palms,  and  potted  plants.  (The  dining- 
tables  are  sometimes  set  in  these  courts.)  The  segundo  patio  is 
usually  devoted  to  the  kitchen,  to  the  drain-pipes,  to  servants, 
and  to  odors  which  never  recall  the  “ perfumes  of  Araby.”  As 
they  are  rarely  distinguished  for  cleanliness,  rooms  overlook- 
ing them  should  be  avoided.  The  rooms  facing  any  patio  are 
usually  without  windows,  and  if  the  sleeper  wants  fresh  air, 
the  door  must  be  left  open.  By  demanding  a cuarto  con  ven- 
tilation one  may  sometimes  get  a room  with  an  additional 
outlet  or  a back  window.  It  is  always  advisable  to  see  the 
room  before  agreeing  to  take  it.  In  certain  hotels  a room 
manifestly  for  one  person  is  double-bedded,  and  double  rates 
are  asked  — unless  the  traveller  protests.  Americans  are  sup- 
posed to  be  wealthy  and  to  be  indifferent  to  what  prices  they 
pay. 

Candles  are  still  used  in  the  remoter  towns.  It  is  well  to 
remember,  for  health’s  sake,  that  one  wax  or  tallow  candle 
destroys,  during  its  combustion,  as  much  oxygen  per  hour  as 
the  respiration  of  one  adult. 

According  to  a trustworthy  authority,  the  air  respired  by  a human 
being  in  one  hour  is  about  15  cube  feet,  producing  500  grains  of  carbonic 


lii 


MEALS 


acid,  corresponding  to  137  grains  of  carbon,  and  during  this  time  about 
200  grains  of  water  will  be  exhaled  bjfcthe  lungs.  A man  weighing  150 
lbs.  requires  930  cube  feet  of  air  per  hour,  in  order  that  the  air  he  breathes 
may  not  contain  more  than  1 per  1,000  of  carbonic  acid;  he  ought, 
therefore,  to  have  800  cube  feet  of  well-ventilated  space. 

In  some  hotels,  rooms  engaged  ahead  are  charged  for  from 
the  time  they  are  bespoken,  and  ki  others,  rooms  not  given  up 
before  3-5  p.  m.  are  considered  as  taken  for  the  following  day. 
It  is  always  advisable  to  make  inquiry  as  to  prices  and  cus- 
toms soon  after  arrival.  Houses  in  Mexico  are,  as  a rule,  chim- 
neyless, and  devoid  of  heating  apparatus,  but  portable  kero- 
sene stoves  ( estufas  de  'petroled)  are  usually  available  in  the 
best  hotels  of  the  highlands. 

Breakfast  ( almuei'zo ) in  the  hotels  under  foreign  manage- 
ment usually  consists  of  coffee  (or  chocolate),  rolls,  meat,  and 
eggs,  and  is  served  from  7 to  10.  (Luncheon  12  to  2,  and  dinner 
7 to  9.)  In  the  native  hotels  generally  a lighter  breakfast  {de- 
say  uno  — the  petit  dejeuner  of  Europe)  is  served  between  6 
and  9.  It  consists  of  coffee  (often  in  extract  form,  poured  cold 
from  a bottle)  with  hot  milk,  or  chocolate,  and  rolls.  Meat 
and  eggs  are  apt  to  be  charged  for  extra. 

The  Regular  Breakfast  — sometimes  called  comida  — is 
ready  between  11  and  1.30,  and  comprises  soup,  eggs,  rice, 
fish,  two  or  three  kinds  of  meat  with  heavy  gravy  (or  a biftec 
with  fried  potatoes),  sweets,  fruit,  and  small  coffee.  Ice-cream 
and  other  dishes  sometimes  appear  on  the  menu  in  restaurants 
where  the  meal  is  served  at  a fixed  price,  and  as  they  are  apt 
to  be  charged  for  extra,  it  is  a good  plan  to  ask  what  the  price 
includes — tcuales  plains  estdn  comprendidos  en  la  comida  cor- 
rida f The  Evening  Meal  ( cena ) , 6 to  9,  is  much  the  same  as 
that  at  noon.  Meals  are  characterized  by  many  meat  courses, 
and  are  usually  served  at  small,  round  individual  tables 
( mesas  sueltas).  In  some  Spanish  hotels  a cheap  claret  — 
vino  Unto  — (to  be  avoided)  is  served  free,  with  meals. 

The  Mexican  custom  is  to  eat  heartily  at  midday  and 
lightly  at  night.  The  cafes  generally  advertise  a table  d'hote 
meal  at  noon  for  an  inclusive  price  (75  c.  to  4 pesos , according 
to  quality,  etc.).  The  same  repast  served  after  3 p.  m.  cus- 
tomarily is  a la  carte , and  costs  more  (if  all  the  dishes  are  or- 
dered). 

In  certain  hotels  the  dining-room  ( comedor ) or  cafe  is  under 
a separate  management,  and  food  is  paid  for  when  eaten. 

The  bill-of-fare  is  menu , or  lista  de  platos . Furnished  rooms 
are  — cuartos  a??iueblados.  With  board  — con  asistencia . 
W.  C.  is  — escusado , retrete , gabinete.  For  men  — para  hom- 
bres;  for  women,  para  sehoras.  Urinals  are  orinales,  and  are 
usually  to  be  found  next  to  the  kitchen.  First  floor  — primer 
piso;  second  — segundo;  third  — tercero . Waiter  is  mesero . 
Plate  — plato.  Knife  — cuchillo;  fork  — tenedor;  spoon  — 


BOARDING-HOUSES  — CAFES  lii  a 

cuchara;  napkin  — servilleta.  Servants  — servidumbre;  to 
serve  — servir.  For  a list  of  useful  phrases  consult  Terry's 
Short  Cut  to  Spanish , referred  to  on  the  first  cover  page  of  the 
Guidebook. 

Boarding-houses  ( Casas  de  Huespedes),  usually  are  con- 
ducted by  women  and  sometimes  are  cheaper  than  hotels; 
but  they  generally  lack  the  comfort,  service,  and  security 
afforded  by  the  hotels.  Those  under  native  management  are 
not  always  to  the  taste  of  foreigners,  albeit  living  in  a Mexican 
family  affords  an  excellent  opportunity  for  learning  Spanish 
and  observing  national  manners  and  customs. 

Furnished  Rooms  usually  cost  from  $30  to  $100  a month. 
They  do  not  always  prove  as  comfortable  as  the  hotel.  One’s 
consul,  banker,  or  friend  will  usually  be  able  to  say  which 
house  in  a place  enjoys  the  best  reputation. 

Mesones,  or  Taverns,  — a species  of  caravansary  where 
lodging  is  furnished  man  and  beast,  — are  not  for  the  foreigner 
unless  he  finds  himself  in  a town  without  an  hotel. 

Fondas  (native  restaurants)  and  Jigones  (chop-houses),  as 
well  as  cafes , rarely  have  rooms  to  rent.  The  traveller  will 
sometimes  be  able  to  get  a more  satisfactory  meal  in  a Chinese 
( chino ) restaurant  (of  which  there  are  many  in  the  Repub.) 
than  in  a cheap  native  fonda. 

Cafes  are  somewhat  unlike  those  of  Europe  in  that  they  are 
usually  cafes  and  restaurants  combined,  where  regular  meals 
are  served.  The  cuisine  ( cocina ) of  the  oldest  establishments 
of  the  capital  is  generally  French  or  Spanish:  there  are  now 
several  places  where  American  taste  is  catered  to.  In  the 
smaller  towns  the  hotel  restaurant  is  usually  the  best.  Meals 
vary  in  price  with  the  style  and  reputation  of  the  house.  Prices 
usually  range  from  SI  to  S2.50;  the  waiter  expects  a small 
fee.  Table  wine  is  generally  charged  for.  English  is  spoken 
in  the  best-known  cafes  of  the  capital.  Certain  of  the  cafes 
and  hotels  display  the  menu-card  in  the  window  or  at  the 
entrance,  and  repeat  it  in  the  daily  newspapers.  The  traveller 
should  count  his  change,  and  be  on  his  guard  against  counter- 
feit money. 

Baths.  Not  all  hotels  possess  Baths  ( banos ),  as  the  native 
custom  is  to  bathe  in  the  casa  de  bah  os,  with  which  almost 
every  town  is  supplied.  As  these  establishments  frequently 
change  management,  it  is  difficult  to  correctly  direct  the  travel- 
ler in  all  cases.  An  accurate  list  appears  under  the  proper 
headings  in  the  Handbook,  but  the  traveller  is  nevertheless 
counselled  always  to  ask  the  hotel  manager  which  is  the  best 
and  cleanest.  He  is  strongly  advised  to  avoid  all  but  the 
places  of  the  highest  class.  Even  then  it  is  sometimes  advis- 
able to  take  one’s  own  towels  (always  soap)  along.  Many 


CARGADPRES 


m 

casas  de  banos  are  operated  by  a certain  type  of  Spaniard 
whose  ideas  of  hygiene  are  a negligible  quantity.  In  most 
houses  the  only  apparent  difference  between  first  and  second 
class  baths  is  that  noticeable  in  the  size  and  quality  of  the  tub 
and  the  decoration  of  the  room.  It  should  be  borne  in  mind, 
however,  that  the  second-class  rooms  are  frequented  by  per- 
sons whose  ideas  of  cleanliness  are  at  variance  with  those  of 
the  average  traveller,  and  to  frequent  any  but  the  best  may 
prove  not  only  injudicious  but  dangerous.  The  bath-houses 
are  usually  crowded  on  Sunday  mornings  and  dias  de  fiesta , 
and  are  apt  to  be  closed  Sunday  afternoons.  Sweat  baths 
should  not  be  taken  at  high  altitudes,  until  the  sun  is  well 
above  the  horizon. 

Cargadores  (porters  or  carriers)  are  found  in  all  towns  (ex- 
cepting those  of  Yucatan),  and  they  generally  congregate  at 
railway  stations  and  on  street  corners.  They  are  called  by 
clapping  the  hands,  as  if  applauding.  Each  man  is  licensed, 
and  wears  (or  should  wear)  a metal  disc  with  his  number 
swung  on  a chain  around  his  neck  or  attached  to  his  clothing. 
The  class  is  a trustworthy  one,  as  a rule,  but  in  the  cities, 
thieves  sometimes  mix  with  them,  obtain  spurious  badges, 
and  make  off  with  luggage  entrusted  to  them.  When  a travel- 
ler employs  a cargador,  he  should  always  make  a mental  note 
of  his  number,  so  he  can  be  traced  if  he  disappears.  Each 
man  is  vouched  for  to  the  authorities  by  some  person  of  note, 
who  remains,  in  a way,  responsible  for  his  conduct.  The  safest 
rule  is  to  accompany  the  cargador  who  carries  one’s  luggage, 
and  make  him  walk  ahead.  If  one  is  undecided  about  the 
hotel  he  wishes  to  stop  at,  it  is  advisable  to  give  one’s  hand- 
luggage  to  a cargador , take  him  along  as  guide  and  carrier,  and 
visit  the  different  hotels  until  a suitable  one  is  found.  Medium 
size  trunks  are  transported  on  the  man’s  back,  supported  by 
a strap  which  rests  against  the  forehead.  Heavy  packages 
( bultos  grandes)  are  carried  on  a species  of  litter  called  a pari - 
huela , with  shafts  or  handles  at  each  end. 

Express  Companies  ( compahias  de  express)  are  succeeding 
the  cargadores  as  luggage  carriers  in  the  larger  cities.  Taxis 
can  also  usually  be  found  about  a rly.  station,  and  the  traveller 
can  pile  his  hand  luggage  into  one  and  leisurely  seek  a hotel 
to  suit  his  taste  and  purse.  This  procedure  never  offends  the 
common  sense  Mexican,  whose  politeness  is  as  proverbial  as 
the  thrift  of  certain  classes.  The  wealthiest  Mexicans  often 
seek  modest  lodgings  in  this  manner,  where  the  charges  suit 
their  ideas  and  the  cooking  their  palates. 

Travellers  are  cautioned  against  leaving  unguarded  luggage 
or  any  personal  belongings  in  taxis;  as  drivers  often  take 
advantage  of  such  occasions  to  make  off  with  them. 

Where  cargadores  are  employed,  the  price  for  service  should 
be  agreed  upon  beforehand.  They  nearly  always  ask  more  than 


TOWNS  — HOUSES  — RENTS 


liii 


they  deserve  or  expect  to  receive,  and  not  unfrequently  they 
will  grumble  if  the  agreed-upon  price  only  is  paid  them. 
Usually  they  expect,  and  ask  for,  an  aguita  (little  drink),  or 
tip,  over  and  above  their  tariff.  A persistent  man  generally 
can  be  gotten  rid  of  by  the  phrase  Dios  le  pagard  (God  will  pay 
you),  or  a threat  to  call  the  police. 

In  cities  where  foreigners  congregate,  like  Mexico  City,  Vera 
Cruz,  Tampico,  and  similar  places,  cargadores  will,  as  a general 
rule,  prove  more  expensive,  and  more  vexing,  than  taxi  chofers. 
The  latter  usually  will  permit  the  traveller  to  carry  any  rea- 
sonable number  of  pieces  of  hand  baggage  (and  even  a steamer 
trunk)  in  his  car,  at  little  or  no  extra  cost,  with  the  advantage 
to  the  traveller  of  being  able  to  keep  his  belongings  in  sight. 

A loss  of  luggage,  etc.,  through  a cargador  should  be  reported 
immediately  to  the  police,  and  the  man's  number  recorded. 

VI.  Towns.  Houses.  Rents.  Landlords.  Stamp  Tax. 

Servants.  Gratuities. 

Towns.  Most  of  the  Mexican  towns  are  arranged  in  the 
form  of  a square  with  the  streets  running  at  right  angles  across 
it.  Tramways,  sewers,  telephones,  and  similar  conveniences 
are  to  be  found  in  many  of  the  larger  places,  as  well  as  in  some 
of  the  smaller  ones.  In  the  remote  towns,  open  drains  still 
do  duty  as  sewers,  and  candles  light  the  traveller  to  bed.  In 
some  places  cobbles  are  being  replaced  by  asphalt  for  paving, 
and  mule  cars  are  making  way  for  electric  traction. 

Foreign  influence  is  gradually  altering  the  physical  aspect 
of  those  towns  and  cities  along  the  busy  lanes  of  travel,  and 
while  this  influence  has  the  virtue  of  improving  them  hygien- 
ically,  and  in  ways  that  make  them  more  comfortable  to  the 
Anglo-Saxon  visitor  or  dweller,  it  not  unfrequently  destroys 
their  picturesqueness  and  robs  them  of  their  Mozarabic  charm. 

In  many  of  the  towns  the  delightful  air  of  tranquilly  and 
enduring  permanency  is  being  replaced  by  a suggestion  of 
commercial  prosperity  and  of  an  alertness  out  of  keeping 
with  their  Colonial  charm;  and,  in  some  instances,  their  luxu- 
riant neglect. 

In  some  of  the  more  prosperous  places  the  lower,  or  street 
floors  of  erstwhile  dignified  seigniorial  mansions  have  been 
converted  into  typical  American  stores  with  plate-glass  win- 
dows filled  with  mechanical  expressions  of  northern  ingenuity, 
and  these  meretricious  aggregations  disturb  the  lover  of  fine 
old  architecture  for  which  Mexico  has  so  long  been  famous. 

Plazas,  or  public  squares,  adorned  with  a kiosk  ( kiosko ),  or 
music-stand  (military  music  on  certain  days  and  evenings), 
with  a fountain  and  parterres  of  flowers,  and  fine  trees,  are 
features  of  all  Mexican  towns.  The  Main  Plaza  — usually 
called  Plaza  Mayor,  P.  de  la  C onstitucidn  P.  de  Armas , P.  de  la 
Libertad,  or  P.  Principal  — generally  occupies  the  geograph- 


liv 


HOUQPS 

ical  centre  and  is  the  focus  of  the  town  life.  Where  there  is 
more  than  one  plaza  or  plazuela  (little  square) , the  others  are 
usually  named  for  military  heroes.  Most  towns  possess  alame - 
das  — fine  park-like  promenades  and  play-grounds  (comp, 
p.  327). 

The  Palacio  Municipal  (and  in  capital  cities  the  Palacio 
Federal  or  del  Estado),  the  Cathedral,  or  the  Parochial  Church, 
the  Post-Office  ( correo ),  and  Telegraph-Office  ( oficina  del  tele - 
grafo)  usually  flank  the  Plaza  Principal  or  are  found  near  by. 
Many  plazas  take  the  form  of  gardens  (and  are  called  jardines ) , 
and  they  then  make  delightful  breathing-spots.  During  the 
early  Spanish  occupation  the  town  plazas  were  mere  stone- 
flagged  squares,  sun-baked  and  unattractive.  They  were  often 
defaced  by  awx>oden  gibbet  and  a frame- work,  for  the  display 
of  criminal’s  heads.  The  Empress  Carlotta  instituted  the  plan 
of  adorning  the  squares  with  trees  and  flowers.  Not  a few 
Mexican  plazas  are  embellished  by  a stone  shaft  surmounted 
by  an  eagle  or  a bronze  figure  of  the  patriot  priest  Miguel 
Hidalgo  y Costilla , the  fugelman  of  Mexican  Independence. 
Many  towns  also  possess  a bust  or  figure  of  Benito  Juarez , the 
famous  president  and  promulgator  of  the  Reform  Laws. 
Monuments  to  other  Revolutionary  heroes,  to  Liberty,  and  to 
Aztec  celebrities  are  becoming  features  of  many  Mex.  cities. 

Nearly  all  the  Mexican  cities  now  have  colonias  (colonies)  in 
the  suburbs;  where  Americans  and  other  nationalities  dwell. 
Certain  of  the  towns  near  the  frontier  have  a large  American 
population,  and  the  architecture  shows  the  impress  of  Ameri- 
can ideas.  The  traveller  should  not  make  the  mistake  of  judg- 
ing southern  Mexico  by  these  bi-lingual,  hybrid  places. 

Ambulating  Indian  pedlars  ( vendedores ) are  constant  fea- 
tures of  Mexican  streets.  They  usually  supply  the  towns- 
people with  vegetables  ( legumbres ),  charcoal  ( carbon  de 
lei) a),  native  pottery,  ladders,  potted  plants, — which  usu- 
ally die  in  a day  or  two,  — native-made  brooms  and  whatnot. 
Prices  are  very  flexible,  and  bargaining  is  always  necessary. 
Some  of  the  street-cries  are  weirdly  impressive  and  they  haunt 
the  memory.  That  of  the  tamale  woman  ( tamalera ) is  unusu- 
ally plaintive.  It  begins  about  dusk,  and  as  it  echoes  down 
the  streets,  it  stirs  the  blood  of  the  imaginative;  recalling 
stories  of  the  Aztec  war-cry,  which,  weird  and  menacing,  rang 
in  the  ears  of  the  harassed  Spaniards  as  they  retreated  along 
the  deadly  Tlacopan  causeway  on  the  memorable  noche  triste. 
(Comp.  p.  clxxxiii.) 

The  Houses  of  the  better  class  are  built  after  the  Spanish- 
Moorish  type,  one  to  three  stories,  with  iron-barred  windows 
and  balconies,  and  constructed  of  a porous  stone  ( tepetate ) 
which  hardens  on  exposure  to  the  air  and  becomes  almost  a 
solid  piece.  The  immensely  thick  walls  — often  4-8  ft.  — and 


RENTS 


lv 


the  tile  floors  exclude  the  heat  and  make  the  interiors  cool  in 
the  hottest  weather.  The  walls  serve  the  added  purpose  of 
making  the  house  almost  earthquake  proof  — a desirable  at- 
tribute in  an  earthquake  country.  The  outer  walls  are  some- 
times whitewashed  and  decorated  in  blues,  pinks,  and  brightly 
colored  Pompeiian  scenes.  Foreign  ideas  have  considerably 
influenced  the  modern  architecture  of  the  capital,  where  the 
houses  are  not  unfrequently  made  of  hewn  stone,  after  the 
American  style.  The  homes  of  the  lower  class  are  generally  of 
adobe  (sun-baked  brick) , and  they  are  as  innocent  of  sanitary 
appliances  as  their  occupants  are  of  hygiene.  The  average 
well-to-do  Mexican  family  usually  dwells  on  the  second  floor 
( segundo  piso)  of  the  house  and  devotes  the  lower  floor  ( piso 
bajo)  to  offices  ( oficinas ),  store-rooms  {bodegas),  and  stables. 

The  open  patios  (courts)  surrounded  by  tile-paved  corridors 
are  often  very  attractive;  particularly  when  adorned  with 
fountains,  tropical  plants,  hammocks  (in  Yucatan),  parrots, 
and  song-birds.  Great  double  doors  — usually  of  wood, 
heavily  studded  with  huge  iron  or  bronze  bosses  or  nails,  after 
the  Moorish  fashion,  and  large  enough  to  admit  a carriage  — 
with  smaller  doors  cut  into  them,  open  into  the  zaguan  (pass- 
ageway) of  the  old-style  houses,  and  this  zaguan  leads  to, 
and  terminates  at,  the  patio . These  smaller  doors  are  often 
perforated  by  a small  grill  {reja)  of  iron,  through  which  strang- 
ers are  scrutinized  before  being  admitted.  One  is  often  chal- 
lenged by  the  query,  Who  is  it?  quien  es  ?)  before  the  door  is 
opened.  Mexican  houses  should  not  be  judged  by  their  exte- 
riors, as  the  central  court  is  oftentimes  much  larger  than  the 
facade  would  indicate,  and  much  more  attractive.  The  houses 
are,  as  a rule,  chimneyless  and  devoid  of  heating  apparatus. 
Too  many  are  also  innocent  of  bath-tubs  and  like  conveniences. 

Rents  in  the  larger  cities  are  high,  with  an  upward  tend- 
ency. In  Mexico  City  comfortable,  detached  houses  of  from 
8 to  12  rooms  rent  from  $2,000  to  $7,000  a year.  Apartments 
or  flats  ( viviendas ) cost  from  $50  to  $200  a month.  The  steady 
influx  of  foreigners,  who  demand  quasi-modern  dwellings,  does 
not  tend  to  reduce  rents  ( rentas ). 

It  is  the  custom  for  Landlords  ( duefios ) to  require  tenants 
to  make  necessary  improvements  at  their  own  expense.  Such 
additions,  whether  practical  or  for  adornment,  and  whether 
removable  or  not,  revert  to  the  landlord  when  the  tenant  quits 
the  house.  Few  house-owners  provide  bath-tubs,  electric-light 
fittings,  cook-stoves,  and  the  like.  American  cook-stoves  are 
not  used  by  Mexicans,  who,  as  a rule,  prefer  charcoal  braziers 
( brazeros ).  Bread  is  usually  baked  and  bought  in  the  local 
bakeries  ( panaderias ).  Where  the  house  contains  a bath-tub 
(tina) , the  landlord  is  apt  to  remove  it.  When  a building  is  de- 
livered to  a tenant,  every  movable  and  removable  article,  such 


lvi 


LEASES 


as  tiles  in  the  wall,  locks,  bolts,  window-glass,  doors,  and  the 
like  are  counted.  The  condition  of  the  floors,  walls,  ceilings, 
garden,  etc.,  is  commented  upon,  a duplicate  list  of  the  articles 
is  prepared,  and  a copy  is  kept  by  each.  It  is  the  duty  of  the 
tenant  to  see  that  the  house  and  fitments  are  in  the  same  con- 
dition when  returned  to  the  owner.  Look  well  to  the  sanitary 
arrangements  and  to  the  surroundings  of  a house  before  rent- 
ing it  for  a long  period.  In  high  altitudes,  houses  with  other 
than  a southern  exposure  are  less  desirable  than  those  which 
get  the  sun  daily  in  the  living-rooms.  Houses  with  a northern 
exposure  will  be  found  to  be  cold  in  the  wdnter.  Although  cer- 
tain houses  in  Mexico  City  possess  one  or  more  fireplaces 
(usually  exploited  in  the  advertisements  as  an  attraction), 
these  do  not  always  “ draw,”  and  they  should  be  tested  before- 
hand. One-story  houses  are  called  entresoladas.  When  these 
have  the  living-rooms  raised  several  feet  above  the  ground, 
with  an  unobstructed  air-passage  beneath,  they  are  not  as 
objectionable,  from  the  standpoint  of  health,  as  those  which 
rest  flat  on  the  ground. 

Leases  should  never  be  signed  without  first  consulting 
some  friend  wTho  knows  the  landlords’  wiles,  as  such  contratos 
are  binding  in  Mexico.  If  one  is  obliged  to  sub-let  (demand 
this  privilege),  it  is  done  at  one’s  own  risk,  and  he  remains 
responsible  to  the  landlord  until  the  expiration  of  the  lease.  A 
fiador  (endorser)  or  two  months’  rent  in  advance  (one  month 
as  a deposit)  is  customary.  The  lease  should  be  clearly  worded, 
and  to  avoid  a fine  ( multa ),  an  attorney  ( ahogado ) should  be 
consulted,  as  the  stamp-law  is  not  familiar  to  many.  Each 
contract  must  bear  a certain  amount  of  revenue  stamps,  ac- 
cording to  the  length  and  terms  of  the  lease.  If  a contract  for 
sub-letting  is  made,  it  must  bear  stamps  just  as  would  an 
original  document.  If  one  profits  by  the  re-leasing,  a Stamp 
Tax  (usually  about  12%  on  the  gain)  must  be  paid  to  Govern- 
ment.1 Some  landlords  profit  by  the  ignorance  of  tenants  un- 
acquainted with  a certain  phase  of  the  Mexican  insurance 
law,  which  is  perhaps  unique.  This  provides  that  where  a 
house-owner  does  not  insure  his  house  and  the  tenant  does  in- 


1 A considerable  portion  of  the  government  revenues  is  derived  from 
a stamp  tax  applied  to  receipts,  checks,  contracts,  and  documents  of 
almost  every  kind.  The  law  appears  a bit  complicated  to  the  foreigner, 
and  circumspection  is  necessary  to  an  exact  compliance  with  the  regu- 
lations. Ignorance  is  held  to  be  no  excuse  for  its  violation,  and  whosoever 
fails  to  affix  the  correct  amount  of  stamps  to  a document  is  fined. 
Those  who  contemplate  business  relations  with  the  Government  or  with 
individuals  are  advised  to  acquire  at  least  a superficial  knowledge  of  the 
act  (see  list  of  reference  books  on  p.  ccxxxix).  Where  any  considerable 
sum  of  money  changes  hands  a properly  stamped  receipt  should  be  given 
or  demanded,  else  legal  recourse  is  not  only  futile  but  dangerous,  as  one 
incurs  the  risk  of  being  fined  for  non-compliance  with  the  law,  and 
the  case  is  thrown  out  of  court,  because  the  documents  are  not  consid- 
ered legal. 


LEASES 


lvii 


sure  his  own  belongings,  the  insurance  money,  in  the  event 
of  a fire  ( quemazon ) , reverts  to  the  landlord  until  his  claim  is 
satisfied.  As  the  household  goods  are  rarely  as  valuable  as 
the  house,  the  landlord  usually  gets  the  entire  sum.  In  certain 
Mex.  States  the  tenant  is  held  responsible  for  the  entire  value 
of  the  house.  Some  house-owners  insure  their  own  property 
and  will  give  (if  demanded)  a quittance  on  the  insurance  cov- 
ering the  household  effects.  Others  refuse  to  do  this,  and 
insist  upon  the  tenant  insuring  the  building  in  the  owner’s 
name,  paying  the  premium,  and  handing  over  the  policy  — 
pcliza. 

Before  the  electric  current  is  turned  on  (in  Mexico  City) , the 
lessee  of  a house  is  obliged  to  sign  a contract  binding  himself 
to  pay  a minimum  sum  each  month,  whether  or  not  he  uses 
that  amount  of  current.  In  a house  where  20-25  lights  are 
used  this  minimum  averages  perhaps  $15  a month.  It  is  less 
or  greater  in  proportion  to  the  number  of  lights.  This  is 
only  the  basis,  and  does  not  represent  the  total  monthly  ex- 
pense for  lights,  which  may  cost  (usually  3 cts.  a hectowatt) 
several  times  that  sum  if  the  lights  are  burned  extravagantly. 

The  curious  custom  of  bequeathing  single  rooms  in  a house 
to  different  children  of  a family  often  gives  rise  to  complica- 
tions when  leases  are  prepared.  Rents  are  payable  monthly 
in  advance,  and  a clause  in  the  lease  always  gives  the  landlord 
(propietario)  the  right  to  expel  the  tenant  and  collect  dam- 
ages and  subsequent  rent  if  this  obligation  is  not  lived  up  to. 

Occupants  of  houses  in  Mexico  City  are  obliged  to  have  the 
street  pertaining  to  the  house  swept  clean  every  morning.  This 
is  the  duty  of  the  portero  (gatekeeper) , and  if  he  fails  in  it  the 
police  will  investigate.  — It  is  customary  to  affix  papers  to 
the  windows  or  balconies  to  indicate  that  the  house  is  for  rent. 
These  usually  read  Se  olquila , or  Se  renta.  Where  addresses 
are  not  printed  on  these  papers  (newspapers  are  often  used), 
the  portero  or  conserve  will  generally  be  found  on  the  premises. 
House-renting  agents  have  been  known  to  ask  more  for  houses 
than  they  are  worth  or  they  expect  to  get.  — A prevailing 
custom  permits  architects  to  chisel  their  names  on  the  facades 
of  houses  erected  by  them.  This  often  gives  rise  to  confusion, 
as  strangers  are  apt  to  conclude  that  the  name  is  that  of  the 
occupant. — The  habit  of  demanding  a traspaso  (bonus)  from 
tenants  after  the  rent  is  agreed  upon,  while  practised  in  some 
places  (and  usually  upon  unsophisticated  persons) , is  happily 
falling  into  disuse. 

Servants.  If  your  native  servant  (of  either  sex)  seems 
honest  and  intelligent  — be  on  your  guard!  If  you  send  your 
man-servant  out  to  buy  things,  first  know  the  price  and  give 
him  the  exact  amount.  Don’t  trust  him  with  money  for  cur- 
rent expenses;  this  will  be  the  signal  for  his  disappearance. 


lviii 


SERVANTS 


Never  trust  his  word  in  matters  of  importance  to  yourself. 
Know  your  wishes  and  make  him  subservient  thereto.  If  you 
treat  him  with  consideration,  he  will  impose  upon  you.  Make 
him  know  his  place  and  keep  it  and  you  will  gain  his  respect 
and  his  best  service.  Never  advance  him  money.  If  his  mo- 
ther, father,  or  great-aunt  dies  a day  or  two  before  his  wages 
are  due,  and  he  says  he  will  have  to  go  to  his  tierra  to  assist 
at  the  obsequies,  cast  about  for  another  servant,  as  yours 
has  found  what  he  considers  a better  place. — Maid-servants 
( criadas ),  nurses  ( nanas ),  and  the  like  are  called  by  their 
given  names  or  muchacha  (girl) ; not  senora  or  senorita.  Men- 
servants  ( mozos  — buen  mozo  also  means  a handsome  fellow) 
of  all  classes  are  called  by  their  given  names  or  muchachos 
(boys);  not  Don  or  Senor.  A waitress  is  a rnesera;  chamber- 
maid, recamarera;  cook,  cocinera;  cook’s  assistant,  galopina. 

The  salaries  paid  to  servants  in  Mexico  City  are  as  a rule  higher  than 
elsewhere  in  the  Repub.  A cook  gets  from  $20  to  $60  a month  from  Mexi- 
cans: foreigners  often  pay  more,  and  get  less  service.  A portero  is  paid 
from  $30  to  $45;  a chambermaid  from  $15  to  $30;  a waitress  from  $15 
to  $20.  Salaries  have  an  upward  tendency. 

The  French  concierge  and  the  American  janitor  have  their  Mexican 
counterpart  (somewhat  more  pronounced)  in  the  portero , a necessary 
evil  and  a fixture  in  all  Mexican  houses.  This  functionary,  with  his 
frowsy  wife  and  numerous  progeny,  occupies  usually  a cubby-hole  of 
a room  ( porteria ) in  the  zaguan  near  the  main  entrance;  adjacent  to  the 
fountain,  at  the  back  of  the  patio,  or  beneath  the  angle  in  the  stairway. 
In  the  matter  of  petty  commercial  “ squeezes”  he  is  more  like  his  French 
confrere  than  he  is  like  the  American  janitor,  and  his  idle  hours  (usually 
24  each  day)  are  devoted  to  plans  for  annexing  small  coins  which  right- 
fully belong  to  others.  For  slovenly  ineptitude  he  is  hard  to  beat.  Time 
is  of  no  value  to  him,  and  financial  projects  which  involve  a problemat- 
ical gain  of  one  real  (12  centavos)  will  occupy  his  disconnected  thoughts 
for  days.  If  the  transaction  is  in  the  nature  of  an  imposition  on  some 
benevolent  and  trusting  foreigner,  and  carries  a spice  of  rascality  with 
it,  it  is  specially  to  his  liking.  His  duties  are  to  attend  the  outer  door, 
sweep  the  street  and  patio , pump  ( bombear ) water  into  the  tank  on  the 
roof,  collect  a small  gratuity  from  all  who  enter  the  house  after  10  p.  m., 
keep  his  prehensile  fingers  well  off  his  master’s  belongings,  and  prevent 
his  acquisitive  and  ambitious  countrymen  from  removing  portable 
property  such  as  door-mats,  ash-cans,  push-buttons,  flower-pots,  and 
the  like.  He  is  usually  blissfully  ignorant  of  the  number  of  the  house 
next  door  or  across  the  street,  or  even  of  the  name  of  the  street,  albeit 
he  may  have  been  born  in  it  and  have  lived  a long  and  useless  life  there. 
His  strong  point  is  unspecialized  knowledge:  he  speaks  without  fore- 
thought . and  if  he  can  discover  the  kind  of  information  or  advice  wanted 
he  supplies  it  cheerfully  and  to  the  limit  of  his  vocabulary.  The  more 
useless  and  untrue  this  is,  the  more  he  generally  possesses. 

Born  without  virtue  and  with  a defective  mentality,  he  is  a bundle 
of  inconsistencies:  for  untrustworthiness  he  is  sui  generis.  He  makes  a 
show  of  working  only  when  driven  to  it  by  sheer  necessity.  The  only 
way  to  retain  his  doubtful  services  is  to  pay  him  starvation  wages. 
If  well  paid,  he  soon  quits  you  and  does  not  sneak  back  till  his  entire 
capital  has  jingled  into  the  till  of  the  nearest  pulquerixi.  Do  you  pay  him 
a living  wage,  thus  enabling  him  to  save  enough  with  which  to  purchase 
a big  sombrero  rigged  out  with  silver  braid,  then  indeed  is  he  lost  to  you, 
for  the  sombrero  makes  a Caballero  of  him,  and  no  caballero  would  work, 
unless  in  direst  adversity.  Do  you  take  compassion  on  him  and  clothe 
him  in  a cast-off  suit  of  his  master,  he  promptly  suspects  ulterior  mo- 
tives and  decamps  on  the  strength  of  them.  Besides,  clothes  satisfy  his 
ambition  and  their  possession  removes  the  necessity  for  work. 


TIPS 


lix 


When  he  starts  out  on  an  errand  which  should  take  him  a few  hours 
he  is  just  as  apt  to  be  absent  as  many  days,  for  his  impulses  are  swayed 
by  every  air  current  that  blows  through  the  street,  and  his  sense  of  duty 
is  so  atrophied  as  to  be  almost  nil.  The  local  city  prison  has  a strange 
attraction  for  him  and  he  does  not  always  succeed  in  keeping  out  of  it. 
The  man  who  starts  a hunt  for  a lost  'porter o generally  applies  there  first 
— and  not  infrequently  is  spared  further  loss  of  time. 

An  expeditious  method  of  severing  one’s  connection  with  a portero 
is  to  place  him  under  obligation.  The  thought  of  having  possibly  to  pay 
this,  at  some  future  date,  is  too  much,  and  at  the  first  opportunity  he 
seeks  pastures  new.  When  he  decides  to  leave,  he  informs  you  that  his 
aged  grandmamma  has  been  run  down  by  a tram  or  an  automobile  and 
left  dead  or  with  her  legs  cut  off.  The  funeral  or  the  medical  examina- 
tion takes  place  the  following  day,  and  he  implores  permission  to  be 
present  at  the  event.  His  far-twinkling  spark  of  genius  has  bubbled  to 
the  surface  in  this  transaction,  for  at  a stroke  he  seeks  a position  elsewhere 
wfhile  drawing  pay  from  his  present  employer.  The  car  or  auto  accident 
happens  always  on,  or  one  day  before,  pay-day,  and  if  the  new  position 
embraces  unusual  attractions,  the  portero  never  returns.  Once  installed 
he  sends  for  his  belongings — which  you  have  held  pending  his  suc- 
cess — or  mayhap  he  comes  in  person,  and  while  requesting  a settle- 
ment tearfully  bemoans  the  cruel  fate  which  snatches  him  from  so  gen- 
erous a master  and  forces  him  to  provide  for  a new  family  or  to  attend 
a living  but  legless  grandmother.  If  he  does  not  ask  for  a small  loan 
of  silver,  he  is  an  exception.  This  interview  closes  the  incident,  as  far  as 
he  is  concerned,  and  when  you  perchance,  and  with  unfeigned  surprise, 
see  him  sweeping  the  neighbor’s  sidewalk  the  following  day,  he  greets 
you  with  unruffled  serenity,  and  with  a smile  which  betokens  a con- 
science at  peace  with  the  world. 

Tips.  The  custom  of  giving  gratuities  ( gratificacidnes ) pre- 
vails in  Mexico,  and  is  spreading,  but  the  evil  has  yet  to  reach 
the  deplorable  development  characteristic  of  it  in  Europe  and 
America.  While  tips  or  fees  ( propinas ) are  never  taken  amiss, 
the  serving  class  ( servidumbre ) is,  as  a rule,  less  arrogant  and 
less  exacting  than  that  abroad,  and  tips  are  smaller.  Class 
distinction  serves  a bit  to  keep  the  Mexican  hireling  in  his 
place,  even  were  the  amo  or  'patron  (master  or  employer)  dis- 
posed to  be  browbeaten  a la  Americano  or  estilo  Europeo.  The 
custom  is  more  pronounced  in  Mexico  City  (the  rendezvous 
of  foreigners)  than  in  the  interior  towns.  The  evil  is  some- 
what easier  borne  in  Mexico,  where  servants  are,  generally 
speaking,  courteous,  and  where  the  recipient  of  a fee  rarely 
fails  to  express  gratitude  for  it.  The  nuisance  has  yet  to  reach 
the  dignity  of  a guild,  and  the  hotel  proprietors  have  yet  to 
sink  to  the  level  of  leaguing  themselves  with  their  menials 
to  fleece  the  confiding  traveller,  upon  whom  their  prosperity 
depends.  Hotel  servants  in  Mexico  are  never  permitted  to 
ambush  and  harass  the  departing  guest,  and  this  generally 
proves  a novel  and  refreshing  experience  to  the  harried  tourist 
fresh  from  a trip  to  Europe. 

Gratuities  to  house  servants  (where  one  is  visiting),  to  ele- 
vator-men, hotel  clerks,  railway  employees,  and  such  are  rarely 
expected.  Restaurant  waiters  are,  as  a rule,  satisfied  with  small 
tips,  whatever  the  amount  of  the  bill.  This  also  applies  to  bar- 
bers, bath-attendants,  and  so  on.  Six  or  12  cts.  is  the  usual  tip 
to  cabmen  ( cocheros ) , who,  like  their  ilk  elsewhere,  are  rarely 


lx 


POPULATION 


grateful.  Those  of  the  capital  still  remember  a hint  on  coer- 
cion and  covetousness  handed  them  by  the  enlightened  Gov- 
ernor of  the  Federal  District  not  long  since,  and  any  dispute 
can  usually  be  settled  by  the  suggestion  — a very  effectual 
dampener  — that  the  matter  be  arbitrated  at  the  nearest 
comisaria.  — Where  one  stops  a week  or  more  in  an  hotel,  one 
peso  is  enough  for  the  table-boy;  and  an  equal  amount  is 
ample  for  the  chambermaid. 

It  is  the  custom  to  close  the  zaguan  doors  of  Mexican  houses 
at  10  p.  m.,  and  whosoever  comes  in  later  is  expected  to  give 
a gratificacioncita  to  the  portero.  Cargadores  (comp.  p.  lii b) 
usually  demand  more  than  the  agreed-upon-price,  and  where 
the  traveller  is  unwilling  to  grant  it  the  word  anda  — move 
on,  or  vaya  — get  out,  usually  starts  them. 

VII.  Population.  Intercourse  with  the  People.  Public 
Security.  Beggars.  Thieves. 

Population.  The  population  of  the  Mexican  Republic  is 
about  15,000,000,  almost  equally  divided  between  males  and 
females.  Of  these,  more  than  8,000,000  who  have  reached 
their  majority  can  neither  read  nor  write.  The  census  of  1920 
recorded  8,000  persons  over  90  years  of  age,  and  700  over  100 
years,  out  of  the  (then)  total  population  of  14,637,779.  There 
are  12,000,000  of  Catholics,  of  whom  about  3.000  are  priests. 
Some  70,000  persons  profess  no  religious  belief,  and  50,000 
or  more  are  divided  among  the  ten  different  beliefs  (with  277 
ministers)  from  Protestant  to  Mahommedan,  thence  to  Con- 
fucianism and  Buddhism.  The  two  latter  beliefs  (with  Tao- 
ism) are  professed  by  most  of  the  ten  thousand  Chinese  in  the 
Republic,  while  the  Japanese,  of  whom  there  are  some  8,000, 
are  mostly  Shinto ists.  Of  the  total  population  19%  are  of 
pure,  or  nearly  pure,  white  race;  43%  of  mixed,  and  38%  of 
Indian  race  (comp.  Language,  p.  xviii).  Of  the  mixed  Indian 
races  only  a small  portion  can  be  regarded  as  civilized.  They 
are  slowly  but  surely  merging  their  identity  with  that  of  their 
neighbors;  their  national  life  is  almost  gone,  child  mortality 
among  them  is  distressingly  high  — albeit  the  women  are 
“ much  addicted  to  maternity  ” — and  their  customs  — which 
are  not  distinguished  for  pulchritude  — aid  in  their  oblitera- 
tion. 

The  Indians  of  Mexico  enjoy  all  the  political  and  civil  rights 
of  born  Mexicans;  but  they  exercise  little  influence  on  the 
government  and  destiny  of  "the  nation.  Special  lawTs  for  their 
protection  are  features  of  the  Mexican  code.  There  is  little  or 
no  anti-foreign  spirit  among  them.  Some  of  the  Indian  women 
— not  all  of  whom  could  be  accused  of  extreme  cleanliness  — 
are  very  handsome,  with  large,  soft,  dark  eyes  and  good  fea- 
tures. 


POPULATION 


lxi 


The  foreign  population  includes  the  natives  of  forty  or  more 
countries  and  numbers  over  100,000;  of  whom  there  are  30,000 
Americans  (who  are  in  the  majority),  20,000  Spaniards,  and 
about  5,000  British.  (American  capital  to  the  value  of  about 
$800,000,000  (gold)  is  invested  in  the  Republic,  and  the  Eng- 
lish interests  are  enormous.)  About  15,000  Americans  and 
3,000  or  more  British  (including  Canadians)  dwell  in  Mexico 
City.  This  number  is  on  the  increase. 

“The  Mexican  of  to-day  has  the  blood  of  more  races  in  his 
veins  than  any  other  American.  Iberian,  Semite,  Hamite, 
Goth  and  Vandal,  Roman  and  Celt,  mingled  their  blood  in  that 
stream  of  brave  and  adventurous  men  who  first  set  eyes  on 
Yucatan  in  1517,  and  wTho  conquered  Mexico  in  1522.  Like 
Spain  from  the  remotest  time,  Mexico  soon  became  the  meet- 
ing-ground of  races,  of  peoples,  of  languages,  and  of  religion. 
Within  the  area  of  its  original  territory  there  were  more  fami- 
lies of  native  languages  than  in  all  the  Western  Hemisphere 
besides;  and,  to  complete  the  chain,  there  were  more  kinds 
and  grades  of  culture  there.1  The  Seri  Indians,  of  Sonora 
(p.  80),  are  as  abject  as  the  Fuegians,  while  the  Nahuatl  and 
Maya-speaking  tribes  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico  and  of  Yucatan 
occupied  the  most  elevated  position  for  culture  in  the  New 
World. 

“The  origin  of  the  Mexican  aborigines  is  involved  in  that  of 
the  American  Indians,  since  within  the  present  boundaries 
of  the  Republic  are  gathered  representatives  of  every  zone 
from  the  Apache , an  Athapascan , whose  principal  home  is  in 
Alaska,  to  the  tribes  of  Oaxaca  and  Chiapas,  who  are  the  chil- 
dren of  a torrid  clime.  There  are  now  in  Mexico  perhaps  ten 
times  more  Indians  than  were  ever  at  any  time  within  the 
United  States  domain.” 

The  linguistic  families  in  Mexico  are  as  follows: 

Nahuatlan,  1,750,000.  The  tribes  of  this  stock  are  found 
in  almost  unbroken  continuity  from  Sinaloa  along  the  Pacific 
slope  to  the  border  line  of  Guatemala.  In  the  Valley  of  Mexico 
they  occupied  three  districts,  Tezcuco,  Tlaccpan,  and  the  an- 
cient city  of  Mexico.  This  family  — known  as  Aztec,  or  Mexi- 
can — holds  the  most  prominent  position  in  the  history  of  the 
Conquest. 

Piman,  85,000.  The  Opata-Pima  of  the  later  Mexican  au- 
thorities occupy  the  western  northern  States,  as  far  south  as 
Guadalajara , lying  along  the  Gulf  of  California,  except  where 
they  are  cut  off  by  the  Seri,  but  they  do  not  anywhere  ap- 
proach the  ocean,  being  intercepted  by  the  Nahuatlan  tribes. 
This  stock  now  occupies  the  site  of  the  Casas  Grandes  (p.  54) 
and  other  adobe  ruins,  and  it  is  reasonable  to  suppose  that 
their  ancestors  were  the  builders  and  inhabitants  of  many 

1 Otis  T.  Mason,  Mexico.  International  Bureau  of  American  Repub- 
lics, Washington. 


lxii 


POPULATION 


ancient  pueblos  and  cliff  sites,  both  in  Arizona  and  northern 
Mexico.  The  Tarahumares  (p.  57)  belong  to  this  family. 

Yuman,  2,500.  The  lees  of  a great  tribe  which  once  inhab- 
ited the  California  peninsula. 

Seri  an,  200.  Dwell  in  the  State  of  Sonora  (p.  80)  and  on 
Tiburon  Island  (p.  80)  off  the  coast. 

Tarascan,  250,000.  Inhabitants  of  Michoacan,  Guerrero, 
and  Jalisco.  (Comp.  p.  181.) 

Zoquean,  60,000.  Oaxaca  chiefly;  also  Guerrero  and 
Puebla.  Some  few  dwell  in  Chiapas  and  Tabasco,  between 
the  Mayan  and  Zapotecan  tribes.  Little  is  known  of  their 
origin,  save  a tradition  of  their  having  come  from  the  South. 

Totonacan,  90,000.  N.  part  of  Puebla  and  Vera  Cruz; 
their  ancestors  were  the  first  natives  encountered  by  Cortes. 

Zapotecan,  580,000.  Chiefly  in  Oaxaca;  also  in  Guerrero 
and  Puebla.  The  ruins  of  Mitla  (described  at  p.  534)  are 
within  their  territory,  with  their  wonderful  artificial  hills, 
stone  buildings,  fretworks  in  cut  stones,  columns,  and  wall 
paintings.  Benito  Pablo  Juarez  (p.  338)  was  a Zapotec  Indian. 

Otomian,  709,734.  A widely  spoken  language  formerly. 
The  tribes  were  among  the  earliest  in  the  Valley  of  Mexico, 
and  they  spread  themselves  over  the  States  of  Guanajuato, 
Hidalgo,  Queretaro  (their  special  habitat),  San  Luis  Potosf, 
and  Michoacan.  They  are  often  called  Serranos  (mountaineers) 
because  of  their  fondness  for  hilly  country. 

Mayan,  400,000.  Yucatan,  Chiapas,  and  Vera  Cruz.  The 
advance  guard  of  New  World  progress.  Scholars  have  conse- 
crated their  lives  worthily  to  the  Maya  civilization.  To  the 
Mayas  are  assigned  the  wonderful  ruins  of  Palenque,  in  Chia- 
pas, described  at  p.  567;  of  Copan,  in  Honduras,  and  of  Ux- 
mal  (p.  580)  and  Chichen-Itza  (p.  581),  in  Yucatan.  The 
42,000  Haustecas , of  Vera  Cruz,  are  of  this  family. 

Tequistlatecan,  31,000.  A nondescript  tribe  dwelling, 
under  various  names,  in  Oaxaca. 

Huavan,  of  which  there  are  5,000,  dwell  in  Chiapas. 

Athapascan  (Apaches),  8,000,  in  northern  Chihuahua,  and 
the  southwest  of  the  U.  S.  A. 

The  above  families  are  widely  subdivided  and  as  widely 
scattered. 

For  further  information  under  this  head  consult  Mexico , 
International  Bureau  of  the  American  Republics,  Govern- 
ment Printing  Office,  Washington,  pp.  24  et  seq. ; Native 
Races,  by  Hubert  Howe  Bancroft,  San  Francisco,  1883. 

Intercourse  with  the  People.  In  social  matters  the  Mexi- 
cans are  as  minutely  ceremonious  as  the  French,  and  marked 
politeness  is  requisite  in  dealing  with  them.  Even  com- 
mercial intercourse  is  often  dignified  by  a wealth  of  high- 
flown  language  quite  unusual  among  the  matter-of-fact 


INTERCOURSE  WITH  THE  PEOPLE 


lxiii 


Americans  and  the  linguistically  economical  Britons.  But 
the  stranger  should  not  place  too  much  dependence  on  the 
grandiloquent  promises  and  the  somewhat  exaggerated  court- 
esy of  certain  of  the  people  he  meets.  To  be  simpatico  (sym- 
pathetic, amiable)  at  any  cost  is  the  aim  of  the  Mexican,  and 
this  sometimes  leads  him  into  making  protestations  which 
he  does  not  really  believe  and  has  no  intention  of  abiding  by. 
The  humblest  country  Indian,  whose  lowly  hut  is  not  infre- 
quently made  of  grass  and  discarded  railway  ties,  offers  this 
home  and  its  contents  — usually  an  astonishingly  varied 
entomologica}  congress  — with  a grandiose  speech  as  fluent 
as  that  of  the  city  diplomat  who  places  his  palacio  and  its 
gorgeous  contents  a la  disposicicn  de  usted  (at  your  order) . 
To  praise  a thing  in  Mexico,  be  it  a jewel,  a horse,  a house,  an 
hacienda,  or  anything,  is  to  have  it  placed  instantly  a la  orden 
de  Ud.  While  no  one  is  expected  to  take  these  things,  or  the 
speeches,  literally,  it  is  a costumbre  del  pais  (custom  of  the  coun- 
try) to  offer  them,  and  the  tactful  stranger  will  soon  fall  into 
this  costumbre  and  thus  escape  being  j udged  lacking  in  savoir- 
faire.  If  certain  of  these  costumbres  appear  odd  to  the  visitor 
he  should  bear  in  mind  that  climate,  inheritance,  and  environ- 
ment are  responsible  for  them.  The  unfailingly  polite  attitude 
of  the  native  unquestionably  adds  to  the  enjoyment  of  a visit, 
and  a temporary  adoption  of  the  “customs”  will  do  no  harm 
and  will  aid  the  traveller  to  a fuller  enjoyment  of  his  sojourn. 
If  the  national  courtesy  should  awaken  a suspicion  of  insincer- 
ity, the  traveller  may  like  to  recall  Emerson’s  remark:  “The 
morning  dew  is  superficial,  but  it  gives  depth  to  the  meadow.” 

The  Mexican  loves  companionship.  His  innate  kindness 
requires  some  object  for  his  solicitude,  and  if  his  spirits  bub- 
ble effervescently  at  times,  it  is  usually  because  he  desires  to 
make  some  one  comfortable.  When  he  meets  an  old  friend 
(un  amigo  antiguo),  he  takes  him  to  his  heart  literally,  and 
with  an  arm  half  around  him,  pats  him  on  the  back  affection- 
ately at  parting.  On  entering  or  leaving  a restaurant,  a rail- 
way car,  or  any  public  room  where  persons  congregate,  the 
polite  native  bows,  ostensibly  to  the  person  nearest  the  en- 
trance; but  the  salute  is  intended  for  all  present.  No  further 
introduction  is  necessary  for  the  moment.  In  many  little 
ways  he  proves  that  his  courtesy  and  hospitality  are  not  con- 
fined to  his  own  people ; and  he  creates  the  impression  that  if 
he  never  knows  intimately  the  foreigners  who  visit  his  coun- 
try, he  will  at  least  prove  that  he  wishes  to  make  them  feel 
at  home  whenever  and  wherever  he  meets  them.  The  lonely  or 
disconsolate  cannot  remain  long  in  Mexico  without  being 
touched  by  this  strong  under-current  of  geniality.  The  most 
frigid  Northerner  generally  thaws  beneath  the  genial  beams 
of  Mexican  good  humor  and  volubility. 

As  politeness  is  the  cult  of  all  classes,  the  average  Mexican 


lxiv  INTERCOURSE  WITH  THE  PEOPLE 


is  quick  to  respond  to  it.  He  is  deferential  from  instinct,  and 
the  brusque  or  discourteous  stranger  is  regarded  as  ill-bred. 
The  civil  traveller  slips  through  the  country  with  a minimum 
of  friction  and  leaves  pleasant  memories  wherever  he  stops. 
The  icy  aloofness  of  certain  Anglo-Saxons,  and  the  frigidly 
“ superior”  manner  of  others  are  distasteful  to  the  warm- 
blooded, impulsive  native.  The  best  liked  visitors  are  those 
who  are  amiable,  tolerant,  and  polite.  They  are  considered 
simpatico,  i.  e.,  persons  who  appreciate  Mexico  and  the  Mexi- 
cans at  their  true  worth.  The  Mexican  flag,  religion,  customs, 
and  traditions  are  dear  to  the  native,  and  he  is  quick  to  defend 
them.  The  thoughtful  person  never  judges  nations  by  individ- 
ual shortcomings,  and  it  is  therefore  well  to  bear  in  mind  that 
the  abominable  habits  of  the  lower  classes  are  just  as  obnox- 
ious to  well-bred  Mexicans  as  they  are  to  foreigners.  The  con- 
stant aim  of  the  best  people  is  to  elevate  the  masses,  and  this 
laudable  ambition  is  being  accomplished  slowly  but  surely, 
against  tremendous  odds.  By  eschewing  politics  and  religion 
and  by  conforming,  as  nearly  as  possible,  to  established  cus- 
toms, the  visitor  will  gain  the  esteem  of  the  commonalty,  en- 
joy his  visit,  and  endear  himself  to  those  whose  opinion  he 
may  well  value.  Says  an  authority : “ Avoid  trying  to  convince 
the  natives  against  their  will;  it  is  arguing  against  a north- 
east wind  and  a sheer  loss  of  time,  too;  for  in  a fine  indolent 
climate,  where  there  is  little  to  do,  the  unemployed  twaddlers 
spin  nonsense  by  the  yard.  View  Mexico  and  her  inhabitants 
en  color  de  rosa,  and  it  will  go  hard  if  some  of  that  agreeable 
tint  be  not  reflected  on  such  a judicious  observer,  for,  like  a 
mirror,  the  Mexican  returns  your  smiles  or  your  frowns,  your 
courtesy  or  your  contumely ; nor  is  it  of  any  use  going  to  Rome 
if  you  quarrel  with  the  Pope.  Strain  a point  or  two,  therefore, 
to  make  things  pleasant.  Never  measure  Mexican  institutions 
by  American  standards,  nor  seek  for  motes  in  bright  eyes.” 
One  American  term,  “ Greaser/’ 1 should  be  left  at  the  fron- 
tier, as  it  is  as  disagreeable  to  Mexican  ears  as  “Gringo”  2 or 
any  equally  inappropriate  epithet  would  be  to  those  of  an 
American.  — Mexicans  and  Spaniards  mutually  dislike  being 
mistaken,  the  one  for  the  other. 


1 The  term  Greaser , according  to  R.  H.  Dana  (in  Two  Years  Before 
the  Mast),  originated  in  California.  Between  the  years  1830  and  1850 
many  shiploads  of  hides  and  tallow  were  sent  from  San  Francisco  to  New 
York,  via  Cape  Horn.  The  Mexican  longshoremen  at  the  California  docks 
were  dubbed  greasers  because  they  were  usually  covered  with  grease 
from  handling  the  products  mentioned. 

2 Gringo  is  of  doubtful  origin.  It  is  supposed  to  be  a corruption  of  Griego 
(Greek),  as:  hablar  en  gringo,  to  talk  unintelligibly.  Me  habla  en  gringo , 
it’s  all  Greek  to  me!  In  Spanish-America  it  is  a nickname  applied  to  Ameri- 
cans chiefly,  but  to  foreigners  generally  who  speak  a language  not  under- 
stood by  the  natives.  In  Mexico  the  appellation  is  half  friendly,  half  con- 
temptuous; but  among  friends  it  is  not  resented.  The  word  is  found  in 
Labernia’s  Diccionario  Catalan,  and  many  other  old  books. 


PUBLIC  SECURITY 


lxv 


The  vituperative  epithet  of  the  Mexicans  is  cabron  (male 
goat),  which  corresponds  to  the  French  cochon , to  the  Italian 
vacca , and  to  a certain  inelegant  and  disparaging  accusation 
(referring  to  ancestry  and  moral  purity)  frequently  bandied 
about  by  certain  American  tongues.  When  applied,  this  offen- 
sive title  is  apt  to  provoke  instant  physical  retaliation. 

The  peones  (vulgarly  called  pelados  1 — the  skinned  ones) 
are  sometimes  densely  ignorant  and  very  exasperating.  They 
are  known  as  gente  sin  razon  — people  without  reason  — and  to 
avoid  exciting  their  inflammable  passions  the  tactful  person 
will  treat  them  with  the  circumspection  accorded  ignorance 
everywhere.  The  prudent  man  will  never  lay  hands  on  one  in 
anger,  for  he  promptly  resorts  to  the  knife  to  settle  difficul- 
ties, and,  as  a rule,  values  life  as  lightly  as  an  Oriental  fatalist. 
Each  one  considers  himself  a caballero,  and  therefore  the  equal 
of  any  foreigner.  Besides,  he  is  in  his  own  country,  for  which 
his  progenitors  fought  and  died  very  valiantly,  and  naturally 
the  laws  are  framed  for  his  protection. 

Says  another  authority:  ‘‘Unquestionably  the  best  attitude 
for  one  to  adopt  is  that  of  an  uncritical  and  amiable  observer. 
And  as  to  the  church  miracles  and  such,  I am  always  of  easy 
faith  in  such  matters,  and  am  very  willing  to  be  deceived, 
where  the  deceit  is  pleasant  and  costs  nothing.  I am  therefore 
a ready  believer  in  relics,  legends,  and  local  anecdotes  of  gob- 
lins and  great  men ; and  would  advise  all  travellers  who  travel 
for  their  gratification  to  be  the  same.  What  is  it  to  us  whether 
these  stories  be  true  or  false,  so  long  as  we  can  persuade  our- 
selves into  the  belief  of  them,  and  enjoy  all  the  charm  of  the 
reality?  There  is  nothing  like  resolute  good-humored  credul- 
ity in  these  matters.” 

Public  Security.  The  towns  and  highways  of  Mexico  are 
as  safe  as  those  of  any  civilized  country.  The  rurales  or  rural 
police,  an  admirably  disciplined,  picturesque,  and  efficient  body 
of  men,  patrol  suburban  and  country  roads  and  do  police  serv- 
ice outside  the  towns.  As  a rule,  they  are  trustworthy,  and 
they  have  succeeded  in  making  highway  robbery  ( bandoler - 
ismo ) almost  a thing  of  the  past  in  Mexico.  These  men  are 
easily  distinguished  by  their  buckskin  and  gray  uniforms;  by 
their  hats,  which  bear  a metal  number  indicating  the  troop 
to  which  they  belong ; and  by  their  horses  and  general  equip- 
ment. They  usually  travel  in  couples  or  in  squads,  and  are 
frequently  seen  at  the  country  railway  stations.  Wherever 
they  go,  they  represent  the  strong  arm  of  the  law.  Their  pre- 
sence is  always  a guarantee  of  safety  to  the  traveller;  and  as 
it  is  their  duty  to  check  things  that  are  wrong,  one  need  never 


1 The  term  is  equivalent  to  the  French  sansculotte.  The  lowest  order 
of  pelado  is  called  a lepero  — which  means  a poor,  ragged,  miserable, 
and  vicious  person. 


lxvi 


BEGGARS 


hesitate  to  call  upon  them.  They  are  a sober  lot  of  men,  re- 
sponsible to  their  jefe  (chief)  in  some  cuartel  not  far  off,  and 
as  long  as  the  traveller  remains  in  touch  with  them  he  is  al- 
most as  much  under  the  Government’s  wing  as  if  lodged  in  the 
National  Palace  at  Mexico  City.  On  Sept.  16th  of  each  year 
many  thousand  of  these  ruroles  repair  from  the  interior  to  the 
capital  to  take  part  in  the  national  celebrations.  They  are 
superior  in  physique  and  equipment  to  the  ordinary  soldier  or 
policeman,  and  when  clad  in  their  picturesque  costumes  they 
present  a fine  sight. 

The  policeman  ( gendarme — policia,  gendarmeria)  should  not 
be  called  upon  to  settle  trifling  disputes,  as  he  generally  re- 
fers all  matters  to  his  chief  at  the  nearest  comisaria  (police 
station),  and  although  adjustments  are  often  made  in  the 
foreigner’s  favor,  the  comisario  is  a busy  man  and  much  time 
may  be  lost  awaiting  one’s  turn.  In  cases  of  accidents  or  dis- 
turbances the  stranger  should  get  out  of  the  way  as  quickly  as 
possible,  as  the  careful  gendarme , in  an  effort  to  prevent  the 
escape  of  the  guilty,  is  apt  to  arrest  any  one  he  can  lay  his 
hands  on.  Prisoners  are  sometimes  kept  incomunicado  (in  soli- 
tary confinement)  for  the  first  48  hours,  until  an  investigation 
can  be  made.  On  the  other  hand,  the  comisaria  is  the  place 
to  lodge  serious  complaints.  The  police  are  extraordinarily 
expert  in  running  down  thieves  ( cacos ) — comp.  p.  lxvii  — and 
in  locating  stolen  property.  The  police  and  detective  service 
of  Mexico  City  is  superior  to  that  of  many  cities.  At  night 
the  policeman’s  lantern  is  usually  placed  in  the  middle  of  the 
street,  while  the  guardia  retires  into  the  shadows  to  watch  it. 
The  sereno  is  rapidly  becoming  obsolete  in  Mexico.  A special 
license  is  necessary  to  carry  concealed  weapons,  which  should 
never  be  shown  in  the  street. 

Beggars  — pordioseros  — limosneros  — can  always  be  turned 
away  by  the  words  “ ! Perdoneme  por  Dios  ! ” — Pardon  me  in 
the  name  of  God!  They  constitute  a large  and  varied  class  and 
should  never  be  assisted.  Children  are  taught  to  beg  from  in- 
fancy, and  though  one  pities  the  bedraggled  and  poorly  clad 
mites,  it  should  be  borne  constantly  in  mind  that  money  given 
them  goes  directly  into  the  hands  of  shiftless  parents  who 
as  promptly  spend  it  for  drink.  Clo tiling  follows  the  same 
course,  and  is  soon  pawned  for  a mere  trifle  of  its  worth,  as  the 
average  beggar  would  rather  go  naked  than  be  deprived  of 
drink  or  cigarettes.  The  successful  child  beggar  grows  into  a 
professional  and  lays  an  added  burden  upon  the  state. 

The  average  Mex.  beggar  is  a chrysalis  usuallv  ready  to  de- 
velop into  a full-fledged  thief.  His  apparent  misery  is  gener- 
aliy  artificial ; the  result  of  laziness.  Though  often  repulsively 
filthy,  and  sometimes  insistent,  he  is  rarely  abusive.  Every 
church  and  railway  station  has  its  beggars,  of  which  the  blind 


THIEVES 


lxvii 


and  the  very  old  are  usually  the  only  deserving.  It  is  well  to 
remember,  however,  that  in  Mexico  the  blind  beggar  is  often 
remarkably  clear-sighted,  the  halt  and  the  lame  can  outsprint 
a gendarme  when  necessity  urges,  the  deaf  hear  with  extraor- 
dinary keenness,  and  the  hungry  hunger  more  for  cigarettes 
and  pulque  than  for  the  excellent  bread  {pan)  baked  in  the 
lccal  panaderias. 

Despite  government  efforts  to  suppress  mendicancy,  the 
wheedling  voice  of  the  saint-and-blessing-invoking  pordiosero  — 
for-God-saker  — is  heard  from  one  end  to  the  other  of  the 
land.  Labor  is  always  in  demand,  and  the  supply  falls  far  short 
of  the  needs.  No  healthy  person  of  either  sex  need  beg.  Innu- 
merable practitioners  of  this  art  beg  from  pure  laziness,  finding 
it  to  their  mind  less  degrading  than  work  and  an  easy  and 
profitable  profession.  The  foreign  tramps  who  have  no  passion 
for  clean  linen,  and  who  make  Mexico  their  winter  rendezvous 
during  the  season,  should  be  ignored. 

While  the  benevolent  impulse  is  strong  in  the  Mexican,  for- 
eigners are  perhaps  the  greatest  upholders  of  the  begging  evil. 
The  astute  mendicant  usually  limits  his  solicitation  to  a cen- 
tavito  (little  cent) , and  the  charitable  stranger  considers  it  an 
ambition  too  modest  to  remain  ungratified.  Travellers  arc 
warned  against  all  beggars  and  their  wiles.  Learn  the  phrase 
referred  to  and  apply  it ; and  thus  earn  the  thanks  of  Govern- 
ment and  all  industrious  folk. 

Americans  particularly  are  cautioned  against  a “stranded 
countryman”  who  accosts  one  as  “friend,”  and  whose  wiles 
are  more  pronounced  than  any  desire  for  work.  During  the 
winter,  Mexico  is  afflicted  with  a plague  of  “ambitious  pro- 
moters down  on  their  luck,  and  stranded  in  a foreign  land,” 
who  follow  the  vagrant  and  migratory  wild-fowl  in  their  search 
for  a more  generous  climate  than  that  of  the  North.  The 
Mexican  Government,  in  its  desire  to  exhibit  a friendly  spirit 
toward  all  foreigners,  is  far  more  lenient  with  this  soiled  and 
weary  army  than  it  deserves,  and  ‘‘beach-combers”  are  too 
often  permitted  to  solicit  alms  unmolested. 

There  is  no  lack  of  charitable  organizations  in  the  Republic. 

Thieves  ( cacos , rateros,  ladrones)  are  numerous  in  Mexico 
despite  the  relentless  war  waged  against  them  by  the  author- 
ities. When  captured,  malefactors  are  shown  but  scant  court- 
esy: long  terms  in  prison  (or  at  the  penal  colony  of  Tres 
Marias  Islands , the  “Botany  Bay”  of  Mexican  thieves,  comp, 
p.  96)  are  given  the  purse-snatcher,  the  pickpocket,  the  pil- 
fering servant,  and  the  wily  lime- thrower.  Certain  incorrig- 
ibles  are  not  only  sent  up  for  long  terms,  but  are  later  drafted 
into  a certain  corps  of  the  army  and  forwarded  to  the  un- 
healthiest  part  of  the  tierra  caliente.  As  a rule,  the  Mex.  thief 
is  not  as  malevolent  as  his  foreign  brother:  if  possible  he 
prefers  to  rob  without  bodily  injury  to  his  victim.  He  much 


lxviii 


THIEVES 


prefers  to  steal  during  the  day  and  trust  to  his  cunning  and 
his  heels  to  escape,  rather  than  to  force  the  premises  at  night. 
For  this  reason  house-breaking  is  rare.  The  most  expert  and 
daring  thieves  are  usually  degenerate  Spaniards;  they  cut 
down  through  house-roofs  to  rob  stores  and  ware-rooms,  and 
they  despoil  churches,  poor-boxes,  and  the  like.  Anything 
that  Dios  les  da  (God  gives  them)  comes  not  amiss  to  them. 
Ore-thieves,  known  as  “highgraders,”  are  the  bane  of  mine 
operators ; they  purloin  valuable  ores  in  many  ingenious  ways, 
despite  efforts  at  prevention. 

Thieves  sometimes  steal  wire  cable  by  the  mile,  notwith- 
standing the  risk  of  electrocution  and  the  penalty  of  five  years 
in  the  penitentiary  if  caught.  The  railways  lose  fish-plates, 
bolts  from  freight-cars,  engine-fittings,  and  the  like,  while  the 
householder  often  mourns  the  loss  of  lead-pipe,  bath-room 
fixtures,  potted  plants,  door-plates,  push-buttons,  and  what- 
ever portable  thing  can  be  lifted  or  wrenched  from  the  house. 

Nothing  is  considered  safe  from  the  Mexican  ladron,  and  as 
a rule  nothing  portable  is  ever  left  out  of  doors  — even  in  the 
daytime.  Door-mats  are  always  chained  down,  as  are  also 
store-seats  and  the  like.  Ash-barrels  are  never  left  in  the 
street.  Female  thieves,  while  not  as  numerous  as  male,  are 
often  quite  as  daring  and  persistent. 

Churches  are  usually  remunerative  fields  for  cocos.  Within 
their  sacred  walls  the  pious  thief  pursues  his  calling  with 
unflagging  industry  and  generally  with  undeserved  success. 
The  softening  influence  due  to  the  sanctity  of  the  place  reaches 
him  only  in  his  digital  muscles  — and  it  seems  to  render  them 
astonishingly  flexible.  Mexico  City  thieves  formerly  went  to  a 
church  called  La  Virgen  de  la  Soledad,  where,  before  embarking 
on  predatory  excursions,  they  offered  up  a prayer  for  success. 

The  Thieves’  Market  (see  p.  296)  at  Mexico  City  is  an  alleged 
fence  where  ladrones  sell  ill-gotten  property  for  a trifle.  Visits 
ors  are  cautioned  against  it,  as  receivers  of  stolen  goods  are 
not  regarded  kindly  by  the  Mexico  City  police. 

The  traveller  has  to  be  on  his  guard  chiefly  against  sneak- 
thieves  and  pickpockets.  He  should  be  particularly  alert 
while  visiting  churches  and  museums  and  while  on  crowded 
thoroughfares  and  in  street-cars.  When  occupying  apart- 
ments on  the  ground  floor  he  should  see  that  nothing  portable 
is  left  near  the  barred  windows.  The  thief  who  devotes  his 
energy  to  this  branch  of  the  industry  carries  a telescopic  pole 
or  a long  cane  with  a hook  at  the  end.  With  this  he  can  reach 
far  into  a room,  and  he  will  remove  anything  that  can  be  made 
to  pass  through  the  grating.  It  is  inadvisable  to  fall  asleep 
in  railway  cars  when  the  window  is  open,  as  portable  articles 
are  apt  to  be  lifted  out  at  stations.  Photographic  cameras  are 
much  sought  after  by  certain  thieves,  and  the  traveller  possess- 
ing one  will  do  well  to  watch  it  constantly. 


SHOPS  — GUIDES 


lxix 


When  the  traveller  loses  anything  by  theft,  he  should  re- 
port the  matter  to  police  headquarters  at  once.  A Rogues1 
Gallery  is  maintained  in  the  capital,  and  the  alert  chief  knows 
the  genealogy  of  almost  every  thief  in  the  Federal  District. 
The  department  is  amazingly  efficient  in  promptly  locating 
thieves  and  in  recovering  stolen  property. 

VIII.  Shops.  Guides.  Drawn-Linen.  Pottery,  Cigars 
and  Tobacco. 

Shops  ( tiendas , almacenes)  usually  possess  many  attrac- 
tions for  the  tourist.  The  American  establishments  generally 
have  fixed  prices  {precios  Jijos)  marked  in  plain  figures.  Some 
of  the  natives  — knowing  that  to  bargain  or  dicker  ( regatear ) 
is  odious  to  Anglo-Saxons  — advertise  precios  Jijos,  but  a re- 
duction of  the  first  demand  will  generally  be  made,  especially 
in  purchases  of  considerable  value.  In  certain  shops  that  do 
not  advertise  fixed  prices,  unreasonable  demands  are  often- 
times made  of  foreigners.  Clerks  are  not  infrequently  allowed 
to  charge  what  they  will,  and  to  retain  a portion  of  what  they 
can  get,  over  and  above  a certain  price.  The  custom  of  hag- 
gling is  so  deeply  rooted  that  some  Mexicans  will  refuse  to 
buy  if  a reduction  is  not  made,  and  many  shops  adjust  prices 
accordingly.  The  antique  shops  of  the  different  cities  (partic- 
ularly in  the  capital)  are  usually  very  attractive  and  well 
worth  visiting.  As  correct  guarantees  of  values  are  only  to 
be  obtained  from  reputable  firms,  the  traveller  is  advised  to 
consult  some  friend  before  making  purchases  of  importance. 
The  traveller  is  particularly  cautioned  against  the  spurious 
antiques  offered  by  irresponsible  shop-keepers.  Articles  bought 
from  street  venders  are  generally  worthless.  Mexico  is  a land 
of  curios,  many  of  them  inexpensive  and  attractive.  The  fine 
drawn-linen,  mantillas,  fans,  carved  furniture,  porcelains, 
sarapes , and  the  like,  make  very  desirable  souvenirs. 

For  a list  of  shops  at  Mexico  City  comp.  p.  244e. 

Guides  {el  quia  — guias ) are  advisable  where  one’s  time  is 
limited ; they  are  generally  more  useful  in  Mexico  City  than 
elsewhere.  None  should  be  employed  except  when  recom- 
mended by  the  hotel  manager  or  some  reputable  shop-keeper. 
The  Guides  of  the  capital  are  usually  bi-lingual,  and  less  greedy 
and  artful  than  the  general  run  of  European  couriers,  and  the 
hurried  traveller  can  often  save  considerable  time  by  employ- 
ing them.  (Address  any  of  the  first-class  hotels  or  the  Sonora 
News  Company,  Ave.  Madero  17,  City  of  Mexico.)  Their  pay 
is  from  five  to  ten  dollars  a day  for  one  person  or  a party,  and 
when  taken  on  country  trips  their  expenses  must  be  added. 

Drawn-Linen.  The  art  of  making  drawn-linen  ( deshilados ) 
was  first  taught  in  Mexico  by  the  Spaniards,  and  it  became 


lxx 


DRAWN-LINEN 


popular  immediately,  as  work  suitable  for  the  cloistered  nuns 
and  girls  being  educated  in  religious  schools.  It  is  made  in 
many  parts  of  the  Republic,  in  a great  variety  of  intricate 
and  beautiful  designs.  The  best  pieces  are  fashioned  from 
imported  Irish  linen,  and  are  generally  made  in  ecclesiastical 
schools  where  time  is  ample,  and  by  girls  who  thus  employ 
their  spare  moments  at  home.  Such  work  is  usually  con- 
tracted for,  or  bought,,  by  the  high-class  dealers  in  antiques 
in  Mex.  City.  Many  inferior  articles  are  produced  and  are  for 
sale  in  cheap  shops,  on  the  streets,  and  at  railway  stations: 
they  are  generally  made  of  a sort  of  half-linen  and  half-cotton, 
which  looks  well  at  first,  but  which  soon  ravels  out  and  loses 
its  freshness.  The  best  examples  of  the  art  are  characterized 
by  a filmy,  lace-like  quality,  and  though  delicate  in  appear- 
ance, they  are  nevertheless  strong  and  durable.  Table-cloths, 
centrepieces,  napkins,  doilies,  handkerchiefs,  shirt-waists,  and 
an  almost  limitless  variety  of  pieces  fashioned  in  the  form  of 
dainty  little  wheels  are  made  in  quaintly  beautiful  Mexican 
patterns.  Travellers  are  recommended  to  buy  only  the  best, 
as  this  is  much  cheaper  in  Mexico  than  the  lower  grades  are 
in  the  U.  S.  A.  and  elsewhere. 

The  origin  of  the  work  is  unknown,  but  it  became  the  fashion  to  draw 
linen  pieces  in  Italy  (notably  in  Venice)  about  the  year  1500,  and  the 
product  was  called  punto  a reticello.  The  usual  designs  were  open  squares 
or  diamond  shapes  with  diagonals  from  comer  to  comer  and  two  bars 
from  side  to  side,  the  diagonals  crossing  each  other  at  a common  cen- 
tre, thus  forming  a radiation  of  eight  lines  bounded  by  a square.  This 
fine  and  delicate  handicraft  soon  became  the  rage,  and  a pattern-book, 
published  in  Cologne  in  1527,  gives  many  elaborate  designs,  the  most 
prominent  being  mediaeval  and  Arabesque  borders  enclosing  circles, 
curved  scrolls,  and  heraldic  designs.  The  industry  — along  with  Vene- 
tian lace-making — was  introduced  into  France  in  the  middle  of  the 
17th  cent,  and  it  quickly  found  its  way  thence  to  Spain  and  other 
European  countries.  Drawn-linen  is  now  quite  generally  manufactured. 
The  Japanese  excel  in  making  certain  patterns,  that  are  rendered  more 
attractive  by  a superimposed  embroidery  in  white  silk,  but  they  some- 
times turn  yellow  with  age.  The  originators  of  the  quasi-modern  work 
were  perhaps  the  Chinese,  for  at  Canton  it  has  been  made  for  time  out 
of  mind.  Some  excellent  specimens  of  a primitive  kind  of  drawn-linen 
(now  in  the  British  Museum)  were  found  in  Egyptian  tombs  wrapped 
about  the  bodies  of  mummified  kings  and  aristocrats. 

Pottery-making  in  Mexico  is  an  inheritance  from  the 
earliest  tribes  which  inhabited  the  country,  but  what  was  once 
an  art  has  degenerated  into  a third-rate  manufacture.  Cer- 
tain of  the  early  Mexicans  made  fine  and  beautiful  pottery: 
some  of  the  votive  bowls,  idols,  vases,  toys,  masks,  and  what- 
not exhumed  from  their  ruined  dwellings  and  tombs  are 
worthy  to  adorn  the  choicest  collections.  The  excellent  speci- 
mens that  have  been  unearthed  prove  that  various  localities 
had  distinctive  features  of  design,  quality,  and  color.  Lus- 
tred  and  plain  pottery  is  still  made  in  many  districts,  and 
while  the  productions  are,  as  a rule,  inferior  to  those  of  the 
ancients,  certain  pieces  make  very  desirable  ceramic  souvenirs. 


POTTERY 


lxxi 


Much  of  the  lustred  pottery  made  after  the  middle  of  the 
16th  cent,  was  influenced  by  Spanish  ideas  and  methods. 
The  Dominican  Friars  who  settled  in  Mexico  soon  after  the 
Conquest  imported  Toledan  potters  and  established  at  Puebla 
(and  certain  other  points)  potteries  for  the  manufacture  of 
the  celebrated  Talavera  Ware  and  the  polychrome  Mud£- 
jar  Tiles  so  often  seen  on  the  fagades  of  the  old  seignioral 
houses  and  on  the  cimborios  of  the  early  churches.  About 
this  time  a considerable  quantity  of  the  real  Talavera  was 
imported  to  adorn  the  homes  of  the  Spanish  noblemen  and 
to  serve  as  models  for  the  Mexican-made  pieces;  the  tourist 
lover  of  ceramic  art  can  perhaps  find  no  more  acceptable 
relics  of  Spanish  Colonial  days  than  these  genuine  bits. 

The  shapes  of  the  original  Talavera  pieces  are  varied,  those 
predominating  being  cylindrical  drug-jars  or  albarelli,  basins, 
plates,  bowls,  and  vases.  Certain  of  the  latter  are  large  and 
capacious,  and  are  fitted  with  metal  tops  and  curious  old  Span- 
ish hand- wrought  iron  locks : they  were  doubtless  used  as  re- 
ceptacles for  small  valuables.  The  decorative  work  is  gen- 
erally crude  — the  characteristic  color  scheme  being  blue  and 
white,  or  else  blue  and  yellow,  partly  Mudejar  — although 
some  of  the  pieces  reveal  a high  degree  of  artistic  drawing. 
The  odd  combination  of  metal  and  porcelain  makes  them 
highly  prized  by  antiquarians. 

The  majolica  drug-jars  are  usually  about  10  inches  in  height 
and  are  decorated  with  birds  and  heraldic  designs.  Plates 
are  often  found  among  the  genuine  pieces,  and  they  carry,  as 
a rule,  heraldic  designs  in  the  centre.  The  bowls  usually  meas- 
ure about  15  inches  in  diameter,  and  the  smaller,  barrel- 
shaped vases  from  10  to  15  inches  in  height.  The  finest  speci- 
mens of  the  imported  Talavera  — now  unfortunately  rare  — 
are  to  be  found  in  private  collections  and  in  the  best  antique 
shops  of  the  capital.  As  certain  of  the  Puebla  craftsmen  are 
known  to  have  imitated  the  Talavera  potters,  “with  embar- 
rassing perfection,”  purchases  should  be  made  from  reputable 
dealers  who  not  only  know  how  to  distinguish  the  real  from 
the  spurious  pieces,  but  who  will  also  truthfully  advise  the 
traveller  regarding  quality  and  worth. 

For  two  centuries  following  the  Conquest  the  potteries 
[ throve,  and  at  one  time  more  than  a score  were  in  operation 
in  and  near  Puebla.  The  potters  of  Cholula  particularly  soon 
became  celebrated  for  their  fine  wares,  and  Puebla  sent  its 
glazed  tiles  to  decorate  churches  throughout  the  country. 
The  art  began  to  decline  in  the  first  quarter  of  the  19th  cent., 
and  pieces  made  prior  thereto  are  of  greater  worth  than  the 
present  day  imitations.  Seventeenth  century  productions 
show  Chinese 1 influence,  no  doubt  due  to  the  many  fine 


1 The  traveller  will  be  interested  in  knowing  that  some  very  rare  and 
splendid  pieces  of  early  Chinese  porcelains  are  to  be  found  in  Mexico  — 


lxxii 


POTTERY 


pieces  of  Asiatic  faience  which  found  their  way  to  Mexico 
via  the  Philippines  and  Acapulco. 

Writing  of  the  pottery  made  by  the  imported  potters,  Mr. 
Barber* 1  says:  “ Examples  of  the  Puebla  w’are,  decorated  in 
the  Oriental  manner,  have  been  found  in  considerable  abund- 
ance, giving  rise  to  t he  supposition  that  they  are  the  work  of  the 
Chinese.  The  theory  has  even  been  advanced  by  certain  Mex- 
ican antiquaries  that  Chinese  potters  were  brought  to  Mexico 
from  the  Philippines,  but  it  is  more  reasonable  to  suppose  that 
these  pieces  are  the  productions  of  the  later  Spanish-Mexican 
potters,  who,  breaking  away  from  the  old  traditions,  imitated 
the  w’ares  brought  from  the  Orient. 

“Mexican  or  Puebla  maiolica  — tin  enamelled  pottery  — 
known  also  as  Stanniferous  {stannum  — tin)  F aience,  is  a 
coarse,  more  or  less  porous  w’are  covered  with  a heavy,  opaque, 
putty-like  white  enamel,  resembling  in  appearance  thick  white- 
lead  paint,  which,  as  a rule,  show’s  on  the  under  side  of  pieces, 
or  the  backs  of  plates,  in  ridges  or  drops  where  its  flow’  has 
ceased.  It  seems  to  be  of  two  distinct  varieties,  one  of  wThich, 
and  evidently  the  earlier,  more  strongly  resembles  the  old 
Spanish  and  Chinese  products  in  form  and  coloring,  wdiile  the 
other,  of  coarser  texture  and  glaze  and  inferior  decoration,  re- 
veals a distinct  native  Mexican  feeling  in  treatment,  particu- 
larly in  the  crude  and  gaudy  coloring,  the  reds,  yellows,  and 
greens  often  being  vivid  and  harsh.  The  blue  and  yellow  col- 
ors, w’hich  predominate,  have  been  applied  thickly,  and  are 
perceptibly  raised  above  the  white  ground. 

“The  Mexican  maiolica  is,  as  a rule,  poorly  potted,  and  has 
a pinker,  harder,  and  more  gritty  body  than  the  Spanish.  The 
enamel  is  less  opaque  and  less  evenly  applied,  frequently  showT- 
ing  the  tint  of  the  body  beneath  and  numerous  pores  or  pin- 
holes. The  decorations  are  more  crudely  painted,  and  the  dark 
blue,  w’hich  predominates,  is  less  clear  than  that  of  the  Spanish 
ware  and  stands  out  in  pronounced  relief,  as  though  it  had 
been  thickly  mixed  and  heavily  applied  in  coarse  bold  strokes. 
Other  colors  found  in  old  Puebla-ware  are  green,  yellowq 
brick  red,  and  dark  browm.  The  yellows  and  greens  have 
also,  in  many  instances,  been  thickly  laid  on.  Frequently  the 
enamel  presents  the  appearance  of  having  a heavy  coating  of 
transparent,  siliceous  glaze,  w’hich  gives  it  a harder  and  mor* 
glassy  appearance.  These  peculiarities  make  the  attribution  oi 
the  old  Puebla  maiolica  a matter  of  considerable  ease,  since  the 


pieces  that  collect  ors  would  have  great  difficulty  in  duplicating  in  Chin  a 
to-day.  So  great  was  the  rage  in  America  for  Chinese  porcelains  during 
the  17th  and  1 8th  centuries,  that  when  a loaded  galleon  reached  Acapulco 
from  the  Philippines,  trading-ships  came  from  Peru  and  other  South 
American  points  to  meet  it,  and  hundreds  of  thousands  of  pesos  were 
exchanged  for  the  exquisite  productions  of  the  skilled  Asiatic  craftsmen. 

1 Tin  Enameled  Pottery,  by  Edwin  Atlee  Barber,  A.  M.,  Ph.  D.,  Phil- 
adelphia, 1906.  , 


POTTERY 


lxxiii 


genuine  Spanish  pottery  of  Talavera,  which  is  still  to  be  met 
with  in  Mexico,  shows  more  careful  workmanship,  and  the 
decorative  colors,  being  thin,  do  not  stand  out  in  relief.  The 
Mexican  maiolica  was  not  covered  with  a bath  of  lead  glaze, 
or  marzacotto,  as  were  the  Italian  tin-enamelled  wares.  The 
decorations  were  painted  directly  on  the  crude  enamel,  and 
became  incorporated  with  it  when  fired  in  the  kiln.” 

The  original  Talavera  was  made  at  Talavera  de  la  Reina  (near  Toledo, 
Spain),  where  it  was  much  esteemed.  In  the  17th  and  18th  centuries 
the  word  Talavera  is  said  to  have  been  commonly  applied  to  pottery  in 
Spain,  just  as  the  word  Delft  is  used  in  England  to  indicate  stanniferous 
faience.  The  student  may  consult  The  Industrial  Arts  in  Spain , by  Juan 
Facundo  Riano,  London,  1879  ; and  Arts  and  Crafts  of  Older  Spain , by 
Leonard  Williams,  London,  1907. 

The  old  Puebla  tiles  are  coarsely  decorated  with  dark  blue 
designs  — conventionalized  flowers,  animals,  and  human 
figures,  some  of  the  latter  grotesquely  exaggerated.  Certain 
pieces  bear  representations  of  saints,  and  are  painted  in  yellow 
and  black  on  a solid  raised  blue  ground.  Others  bear  rude 
paintings  of  Chinese  in  blue.  Many  of  the  early  Indian 
churches  contain  dadoes  of  these  ancient  products. 

Other  desirable  ceramic  souvenirs  are  the  fine  iridescent 
wares  made  near  Patzcuaro  (comp.  p.  209),  albeit  the  present 
day  imitations  are  inferior  to  the  specimens  made  by  the  early 
Tarascan  artisans.  Good  examples  of  the  old  ware,  exhumed 
near  the  village  of  Santa  Fe,  show  the  pieces  to  carry  a fine 
copper  lustre,  with  a metallic  sheen  and  shifting  waves  of 
ruby,  green,  and  blue  light  — an  effect  produced  by  subject- 
ing the  ware  to  a fierce  fire.  The  Tarascans  at  one  time  made 
splendid  pieces  of  terra-cotta,  decorated  in  red,  white,  and 
black.  Cheran  (p.  223)  appears  to  have  been  the  centre  of  this 
manufacture,  as  some  excellent  specimens  have  been  dug  up 
near  there.  The  ornamental  designs  resemble  those  of  the 
Arizona  and  New  Mexico  Indians,  and  the  articles  are  gener- 
ally in  the  shape  of  jars,  pitchers,  bowls,  and  domestic  uten- 
sils. The  ware  is  very  friable,  and  it  is  difficult  to  transport  it 
safely. 

Near  Zacapu  (p.  223),  in  the  same  State  of  Michoacan , and 
hard  by  the  Tarascan  stronghold,  a handsome  light  gray 
pottery  with  black  and  red  decorations  is  sometimes  found. 
The  color  designs  are  often  remarkable  for  their  geometrical 
progression ; the  most  significant  characteristic  of  the  ware  is 
the  liberal  use  of  the  Swastika,  and  the  Greek  key  pattern  — • 
the  former  the  talismanic  symbol  of  many  Oriental  nations, 
as  well  as  of  the  Navajo  Indians.  As  this  pottery  was  perhaps 
made  in  pre-Columbian  times,  it  would  be  interesting  to  know 
whence  the  potters  derived  their  inspiration. 

The  pottery  of  the  Tarahumare  Indians  (p.  57)  is  similar 
to  that  of  the  New  Mexico  Indians.  The  clay  is  quite  fine, 
white  with  a grayish  yellow  tinge.  The  decorations  are  black 


lxxiv 


POTTERY 


and  red,  and  black  only,  and  they  consist  of  birds,  cloud-scrolls, 
animals,  and  whatnot.  Some  of  the  ware  is  brown,  with  simple 
but  strikingly  artistic  ornamentation.  The  black  ware  is  highly 
polished  and  the  most  friable. 

The  T arahumares  are  pottery  experts,  and  a skilful  workman  will 
make  a medium  size  jar  in  about  20  minutes.  The  serviceable  clay  is 
a trifle  sweet,  of  a pale  yellow  color,  and  it  abounds  in  the  region.  The 
women  taste  the  clay  before  using  it  to  make  sure  it  is  the  right  kind. 
It  is  first  dried,  then  ground  and  mixed  with  pieces  of  old  pottery.  A 
lump  of  clay  is  hollowed  out  in  the  shape  of  a cup,  and  on  this  founda- 
tion — which  rests  on  a bowl  filled  with  ashes  and  covered  with  a cotton 
cloth  — the  jar  is  built  up.  the  layers  of  clay  being  placed  on  success- 
ively, and  smoothed  carefully  over  with  a wet  hand,  making  the  walls 
thinner  and  thinrer.  All  irregularities  on  the  outside  are  removed  with 
a sharp  stick,  and  the  vessel  is  polished  with  a stone.  When  thoroughly 
dried  and  painted  it  is  turned  upside  down  over  charcoal,  and  pieces  of 
pine  bark  are  placed  all  round  it.  The  heat  first  turns  the  clay  dark, 
then  yellow.  (Consult  Unknown  Mexico,  by  Carl  Lumholtz.) 

Guadalajara  (p.  161)  pottery  is  finer  than  most  Mexican 
ware,  and  albeit  certain  of  the  pieces  are  banded  with  gold  and 
silver  leaf  and  are  decorated  in  colors  too  inharmonious  and 
garish  to  suit  the  foreign  taste,  others  (much  liked  as  souven- 
irs) are  distinguished  by  soft  grays  very  pleasing  to  the  eye. 
The  pottery  is  soft^baked  and  very  friable,  and  is  made  gener- 
ally in  the  form  of  animals,  fowls,  vases,  water-bottles,  and 
the  like.  The  water-bottles  ( botellones ) are  offered  for  sale  in 
sets  ( juegos ),  comprising  the  bottle,  a plate,  and  a cup.  Prices 
vary  from  one  to  five  pesos  according  to  quality.  These  juegos 
are  in  daily  use  by  the  natives,  who  refer  to  the  ware  as  loza 
fria,  or  cold  pottery.  Water  kept  in  the  bottles  cools  by  evap- 
oration. “When  filled  with  water,  they  emit  a pleasant  smell 
like  that  of  dry  earth  rained  upon  in  summer,  and  as  the  water 
filters  through  the  outer  surface  they  remain  continually 
damp.”  Tourists  are  advised  to  use  them  as  ornaments  only. 
The  interior  of  the  bottle  cannot  be  cleansed,  and  each  fresh 
influx  of  water  leaves  a deposit.  A bottle  used  for  some  time 
will,  on  being  broken,  be  found  to  contain  sediment  and 
numerous  microbes.  The  large  bottles  are  called  enfriaderas 
(coolers).  The  finest  sets,  and  those  in  which  the  colors  are 
most  artistically  blended,  are  usually  to  be  found  in  the  an- 
tique shops.  — Attractive  specimens  of  the  Guadalajara  pot- 
tery are  those  made  in  soup-plate  form,  containing  figurines 
of  horses  with  riders  clad  in  the  national  costume.  — Guada- 
lajara is  known  also  for  its  profane  pottery,  made  secretly  and 
sold  to  the  vulgar-minded.  The  ware  is  whitened,  and  the 
excellent  constructive  nature  of  the  work  recalls  the  Meissen- 
ware.  — In  the  suburban  town  of  San  Pedro  (p.  179)  clay  busts 
(cost  $10-$15^  and  figures  are  made.  The  traveller  sits  for 
a likeness,  and  within  an  hour  or  two  a bust,  sometimes  remark- 
able for  its  fidelity  to  the  sitter,  is  delivered. 

The  ware  known  as  Guadalupe  Pottery , and  which  is  usu- 


POTTERY 


lxxv 


ally  sold  to  the  pilgrims  who  go  to  the  shrine  at  Guadalupe , 
is  made  at  the  little  town  of  Cuauhtitlan.  Much  of  it  is  of  a 
dark,  polished  green  or  black,  adorned  with  pictures  of  the  Vir- 
gin of  Guadalupe.  The  black  lustred  ware  is  adorned  with  bou- 
quets of  flowers,  figures,  and  twisted  clay  ropes,  that  are  stuck 
on  the  glazed  ground,  and  burned  on  in  the  firing. 

Guanajuato  pottery  is  usually  dark  green  or  brown,  with 
figure  ornamentations,  and  finished  in  a soft,  rich  glaze.  At 
Dolores  Hidalgo  a soft-baked,  smooth,  unglazed  ware  is  made 
which  carries  flower  decorations.  The  manner  of  applying 
these  — generally  in  circles  — differentiates  the  ware  from 
other  kinds  made  in  the  Republic. 

Zacatecas  ware  is  usually  red,  hard-baked,  lustred,  and  dec- 
orated with  rude  splashes  of  underglaze  color.  It  is  very  brittle, 
and  great  care  is  necessary  in  transporting  it. 

Perhaps  one  of  the  finest  pieces  of  ancient  Mexican  pottery 
ever  unearthed  in  the  Republic  was  found  some  time  since,  a 
few  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  ground,  in  a garden  in  Tepic 
city  (Territorio  de  Tepic).  Near  this  piece  (which  was  designed 
and  decorated  in  imitation  of  a turkey,  and  which  is  now  in 
a private  collection  in  Tepic)  were  found  a number  of  fine  tur- 
quoises and  26  small  solid  gold  bells. 

“This  turkey  jar,  which  is  about  six  and  a half  inches  high,  is  interest- 
ing from  many  points  of  view.  It  is  excellently  made  of  fine  grain  mate- 
rial, slate-coloured,  thin,  and  of  such  remarkable  resistance,  that  the  man 
who  dug  it  up  brought  his  pick  down  on  it  with  full  force,  but  made  only 
a hole  at  the  point  of  contact.  The  head  and  neck  of  the  bird,  which  are 
hollow,  were  evidently  made  separately  and  put  on  after  the  body  was 
finished.  The  brilliant  surface  of  the  jar,  resembling  a glaze,  is  a light 
olive  brown  running  into  a slate,  mottled  in  places  with  spots  of  a brick- 
red  colour.  The  head  and  neck  of  the  turkey-handle  are  painted  a bright 
red,  and  the  wattles,  all  clearly  indicated,  are  each  ornamented  with  a 
thin  little  leaf  of  gold.  The  same  bright  red  outlines  a whitish  band 
around  the  neck  of  the  jar,  as  well  as  the  turkey’s  feet  and  upper  part  of 
the  wings  on  the  body  of  the  vessel.  This  band,  as  well  as  the  middle  part 
of  the  wings,  the  legs,  and  the  feet,  were  once  covered  with  thin  gold-foil; 
on  the  middle  part  of  the  wings  remains  of  a cross  band  of  gold  leaves 
may  still  be  seen.  There  are  indications  that  the  upper  part  of  the  wings 
was  painted  greenish  blue.  The  lower  part  of  the  wings  as  well  as  the  tail 
are  represented  by  fluting.  Ornamentations  of  gold-foil  have  also  been 
found  on  ancient  beads  and  potsherds  unearthed  in  the  Tarasco  country. 
The  bird  which  the  jar  represents  is  rendered  so  well  that  even  the  species 
of  the  turkey  is  unmistakable.  The  red,  wart-like  wattles,  as  well  as  the 
erectile  process  on  the  head,  are  those  of  the  Yucatan,  or  ocellated  turkey 
( Meleagris  ocellata).  The  elegant  ribbon  of  golden  bronze  across  the 
middle  of  the  wing  is  as  conspicuous  in  the  original  as  in  the  jar.  The  t.ur- 
quois  green-blue  that  once  represented  the  wings,  as  well  as  the  profu- 
sion of  the  gold  and  the  high  polish  of  the  jar,  combine  to  give  an  impres- 
sion of  the  iridescent  gold  and  green  colors  of  the  brilliant  turkey  itself. 
The  splendid  shape  and  fine  workmanship  of  this  jar  make  it  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  specimens  of  ancient  American  ceramics.  Not  many 
pieces  of  such  ware  are  to  be  seen  in  the  museums  of  the  world,  and  none 
comparable  with  this  piece.  There  is  reason  to  believe  that  an  ancient 
factory  of  this  kind  of  ware  once  existed  in  Guatemala,  or  southernmost 
Mexico,  but  the  locality  of  it  has  never  been  discovered.”  A more  de- 
tailed description  of  this  and  other  curious  ancient  ware  (illustrated  with 
a series  of  finely  colored  plates)  will  be  found  in  Carl  Lumholtz’s  Un- 
known Mexico. 


lxxvi 


TOBACCO 


Other  excellent  specimens  have  been  — and  are  almost  con- 
stantly being  — excavated  from  ruins  in  the  Mexican  terri- 
tory. At  San  Juan  Teotihuacan  (p.  425)  countless  terra-cotta 
masks  have  been  found  similar  to  those  which  abound  on  the 
Isla  de  Mujeres  (off  the  coast  of  Yucatan).  Mitla  (p.  534)  has 
produced  many  pieces  that  have  gone  to  swell  the  collections 
of  antiquaries  in  Mexico  and  abroad. 

All  the  Indian  tribes  make  their  own  cooking  utensils.  The 
ware  is  very  friable,  and  throughout  Mexico  it  takes  the  place 
of  the  usual  pots  and  pans  of  other  kitchens.  Potteries  for 
making  the  ware  are  found  on  the  outskirts  of  almost  every 
Indian  'pueblo. 

Tobacco  ( tabaco ),  Cigars  ( puros ),  and  Cigarettes  ( cigarrill - 
os,  or  little  cigars)  of  excellent  quality  can  be  bought  at  the 
many  tabaquerias  (tobacco-shops)  at  reasonable  prices,  usually 
cheaper,  as  regards  quality,  than  in  the  U.  S.  A.  The  cigars 
best  liked  by  Americans  (and  Mexicans  as  well)  are  the  La 
Prueba  brands,  made  by  Balsa  Hermanos,  in  Vera  Cruz 
(State  of  Vera  Cruz),  and  the  Violeta,  Sin  Rival,  and  Rica 
Hoja  brands  made  by  Gustavo  Mayer  & Cia.,  at  Orizaba 
(State  of  Vera  Cruz).  Both  products  enjoy  an  international 
reputation,  and  by  many  smokers  are  regarded  as  superior  to 
the  famous  Havana  cigars.  — Of  equal  fame  are  the  cigarettes 
(much  liked  b}~  smokers  generally)  of  the  Buen  Tono  Co.  (El 
Burn  Tono,  S.  A.),  whose  huge,  modern  factory  at  Mexico 
City  constitutes  one  of  the  touristic  sights  of  the  capital. 

The  Mexican  cigars  are  milder  than  those  of  Havana,  with 
a fine  flavor  and  a tendency  to  burn  more  evenly.  They  are 
generally  claro,  or  of  light  color.  Tinfoil  is  often  used  to  cover 
them;  an  advantage  in  dry  climates,  as  it  preserves  the  aroma 
and  often  prevents  their  being  broken  in  one’s  pocket. 

Strangers  should  never  buy  cigars  offered  mysteriously  on 
the  street  or  at  railway  stations.  Though  alleged  to  have  been 
stolen  from  some  factory,  thej^  are  in  reality  home  made,  of 
inferior  tobacco,  assembled  by  hands  of  dubious  cleanliness, 
and  in  an  environment  which  the  average  smoker  would  avoid. 
By  packing  the  cigars  in  boxes  of  well-known  brands,  the 
makers  swindle  the  bu}^er,  defraud  the  government  of  revenue, 
and  usually  get  an  excessive  profit  through  false  representa- 
tion. To  get  fine  cigars  one  must  buy  them  of  reputable  dealers 
who  handle  only  high  quality  products. 

For  reference  to  customs  regulations  governing  the  importa- 
tion of  tobacco,  etc.,  into  the  United  States,  see  p.  xvi. 

Tobacco  (Spanish  tabaco;  Aztec  yeti)  is  indigenous  to  Mexico  (where 
many  of  the  iOO  or  more  species  are  found),  and  its  cultivation  is 
a large  and  growing  industry.  That  most  extensively  cultivated  is  of  a 
superior  quality,  with  a fine  aroma,  and  a flavor  peculiarly  its  own; 
it  carries  but  a small  percentage  of  nicotine  and  meconic  acid,  and  is 
particularly  well  adapted  as  a “filler.”  The  plant  (Nicotiana  tabacum, 
of  the  order  Atropaceae,  or  Night-shade)  receives  its  generic  name  from 
Jean  Nicot,  onetime  French  ambassador  to  Portugal,  who  sent  the  first 


HUNTING  AND  FISHING  lxxvii 


plant  from  Lisbon  to  Paris  in  1560.  Albeit  it  grows  in  many  of  the  Mexican 
States,  it  thrives  best  in  the  tierra  caliente,  where  it  is  cultivated  to  a 
high  perfection.  The  States  of  Vera  Cruz , Oaxaca , Colima , Tamaulipas , 
Tabasco , San  Luis  Potosi,  Tepic,  and  Michoacan  are  said  to  produce  the 
best  tobacco. 

The  annual  production  is  about  twenty-five  million  lbs.  Large  quanti- 
ties are  shipped  to  England,  Germany,  and  Belgium.  Most  of  the  pro- 
duct remaining  in  the  Repub.  is  made  into  cigars  and  cigarettes,  of  which 
latter  upward  of  four  billion  are  consumed  yearly.  (It  is  estimated  that 
three  million  cigarettes  are  smoked  in  Mex.  City  every  day.)  There  are 
some  700  tobacco  factories  in  the  Repub.;  several  of  the  largest  being  in 
the  Federal  District , and  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz.  The  greatest  consumers 
of  Mexican  cigars  are  foreigners.  No  chewing-tobacco  is  manufactured. 
Snuff  (rape)  was  formerly  made  in  considerable  quantities,  but  its  manu- 
facture has  dwindled  to  insignificant  proportions.  The  smoking  of 
tobacco  in  pipes  is  limited. 

Wax  matches  ( cerillos ) are  sold  at  all  the  tabaquerias  at 
from  1 c.  to  10  c.  a box. 

IX.  Hunting  and  Fishing.  Photography. 

Hunting  and  Fishing.  Although  little  effort  is  made  to 
preserve  game  in  Mexico,  it  is  abundant,  and  the  range  of  the 
different  species  is  wide.  The  splendid  cover  afforded  by  the 
forests  arid  by  the  more  or  less  thick  brushwood  of  the  vast, 
uninhabited  plains,  has  aided  greatly  in  the  protection  of  the 
wild  beasts,  which  in  some  districts  are  such  a pest  that  they 
are  hunted  with  a view  of  extermination.  There  are  three 
distinct  species  of  large  Felidce — the  Jaguar,  or  American  tiger, 
called  by  the  natives  tigre  Americano ; the  Puma  or  second 
largest  American  tiger  (Sp.  puma);  and  the  Ocelot  ( ocelotl 
of  the  Aztecs),  classed  among  the  wild-cats  (Sp.  gato  montcs 
or  silvestre ),  which  are  very  numerous,  particularly  in  the 
northern  States  of  the  Republic.  The  huinduri,  a species  of 
wild-cat  which  infests  the  mountains  of  Guerrero  State,  is 
hunted  lor  its  beautiful  skin . In  the  mountainous  districts  of 
Jalisco,  Tepic,  Chiapas,  and  Vera  Cruz  (and  other  sections)  is 
found  the  Yaguarondi  Cat  ( Felis  yaguarondi  tolteca),  which 
is  known  variously  to  the  Mexicans  by  its  proper  name,  by 
that  of  the  jaguar,  and  as  little  lion — leoncillo.  It  kills  the 
cattle  on  isolated  haciendas  and  is  exterminated  when  found. 
In  the  State  of  Tamaulipas  the  hacendados  have  organized 
systematic  hunting  expeditions  to  rid  the  region  of  the  felidce 
which  destroy  their  stock. 

Deer  (Sp.  venado)  of  many  varieties  are  found  scattered 
throughout  the  country,  and  they  are  hunted  by  all  classes. 
Very  common  is  the  Mexican  Deer  (odocoileus) , the  smallest 
of  which  is  the  Black-faced  Brocket  ( Mazama  sartorii),  often 
met  with  on  the  Pacific  slope.  The  Burra-deer,  a large  variety 
of  the  black- tail  ( Cervus  cdumbianus) , is  common  at  the  North, 
where  the  bucks  sometimes  weigh  three  hundred  lbs.  Here- 
about are  also  many  wolves  (Sp.  lobo)  and  coyotes  ( Canis 
latrans),  the  coyotl  of  the  Aztecs.  White- tailed  deer  (C.  vir - 


lxxviii 


HUNTING  AND  FISHING 


ginianus ) are  plentiful  in  almost  every  part  of  the  Republic 
The  Sierra  Madre  Range  (p.  53)  of  Western  Chihuahua  (the 
chosen  hunting-ground  of  Texas  and  Arizona  hunters)  is  the 
favorite  range  of  black  and  brown  bear.  Grizzlies  are  also 
occasionally  met  with. 

Among  the  smaller  game  found  in  many  parts  of  the  coun- 
try are  Wild-boars  (Sp.  jabali) ; Peccaries  (Sp.  pecari);  Badgers 
(Sp.  tejones);  White-nosed  Coati  Mondi,  a species  of  badger; 
Raccoon  (Sp.  coati);  Guatemalan  Gray-Fox  (Sp.  zorra),  and 
an  abundance  of  Squirrels  (Sp.  ardilla),  of  various  species.  In 
the  barrancas  and  the  lowlands  is  a curious  little  Ring-tailed 
Cat  ( Bassariscus  astutus ) , related  to  the  raccoons.  Tapirs  (Sp. 
tapir  or  danta ),  Armadillos  (Sp.  same),  Sloths  (Sp.  perezoso), 
many  varieties  of  monkeys  (Sp.  mono),  Ant-eaters  (Sp.  oso - 
hormiguero) , and  similar  animals  are  found  in  the  tierra  caliente. 
Rabbits  (Sp.  conejo)  are  common  everywhere.  Crocodiles  (Sp. 
cocodrilos)  and  Alligators  (Sp.  caiman)  abound  in  certain  dis- 
tricts. On  the  west  coast  the  harpooning  of  alligators  is  con- 
sidered fine  sport.  A huge  lizard  (Sp.  iguana)  is  hunted  by 
the  natives  of  the  tropics. 

Feathered  game  is  found  in  great  profusion,  and  in  the  lake 
regions  of  Chapala,  Patzcuaro  (p.  213),  etc.,  the  number  of 
ducks  (Sp.  pato)  is  almost  incredible.  The  softness  of  the 
winter  climate,  the  high  price  of  ammunition,  and  the  in- 
difference of  the  natives  to  hunting  have  tended  to  attract  and 
preserve  the  myriad  wild-fowd  which  make  Mexico  their  win- 
ter rendezvous.  Ducks  and  geese  (Sp.  ganso)  are  found  from 
the  American  frontier  to  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  and  from  the 
high  table-land  to  the  lagoons  of  the  E.  and  W.  coast.  In  the 
Chapala  region  (described  at  p.  152) — which  is  a breeding- 
ground  for  a small  wrorld  of  feathered  creatures  — one  may 
find  assembled  a wonderful  range  of  flying  game,  including 
Snow  and  White-fronted  Geese,  Mallard,  Canvas-back,  Pin- 
tail, Shoveller,  Muscovy,  Lesser  Scaup,  and  other  ducks; 
Green-winged,  Blue-wunged,  and  Cinnamon  Teal;  Wood, 
White,  and  White-faced  Glossy  Ibis;  Loons,  or  Great  Northern 
Divers;  the  Western,  the  Least,  and  the  Pied-billed  Grebe; 
Cormorants  and  Pelicans;  Coots  and  Herons;  Egrets  (which 
in  many  parts  of  Mexico  are  hunted  for  their  feathers) ; Snip?; 
and  whatnot.  The  Grayson  Bob-white  and  the  Scaled  Par- 
tridge, and  Quail  are  plentiful,  and  Doves  are  everywhere. 
In  the  Sierra  Madres  of  Western  Chihuahua  the  Wood- 
peckers (p.  5S)  attain  the  size  of  a huge  Macaw,  and  these, 
in  turn,  impart  grace  and  color  to  the  tropical  forests  of  the 
lowdands.  Mexico  is  the  original  home  of  the  Turkey  (Sp. 
pavo,  Mex.  guajolote),  and  the  splendid  specimen  ( Meleagris 
ocellata)  wThich  makes  Yucatan  (p.  572)  its  habitat  is  the 
finest  of  its  kind.  Pheasants  (Sp.  faisan)  are  found  in  several 
States.  A catalogue  would  be  required  to  list  the  birds,  which 


PHOTOGRAPHY 


lxxix 


range  from  the  Royal  Eagle  (Sp.  aguila  real)  to  the  Falcon 
(Sp.  gavilan),  thence  to  a myriad  parrots  (Sp.  papagayo , lorof 
perico ) , and  down  to  the  beautiful  and  omnipresent  Hum- 
ming-birds (Sp.  colibri , chupamiel,  etc.). 

The  waters  of  the  oceans  which  lave  the  Mexican  shores, 
as  well  as  of  the  lakes  which  dot  the  country,  and  the  rivers 
which  cross  it,  teem  with  fish.  Fishing  for  tarpon  at  Tampico 
(p.  49),  and  for  the  myriad  marine  creatures  which  swarm 
into  the  bay  at  Guaymas  (p.  79),  is  the  popular  sport  of  many. 
Further  information  under  this  head  will  be  found  in  different 
places  in  the  Handbook. 

Photography.  The  customs  regulations  permit  the  traveller 
to  bring  one  camera  into  Mexico  free  of  duty.  Plates,  films, 
and  other  supplies  (made  in  the  U.  S.  A.)  are  to  be  had  in 
almost  all  the  large  cities  of  the  Repub.  Photographers  are 
accorded  almost  limitless  privileges  in  Mexico,  where  restric- 
tions are  few.  They  should,  however,  be  very  circumspect 
about  photographing  objects  near  fortifications  or  within 
military  zones.  Government  officials,  churchmen,  and  others 
are  helpful,  as  a rule,  and  when  permission  (which  should 
always  be  obtained)  to  photograph  buildings,  pictures,  church 
altars,  and  so  forth  is  requested  in  a courteous  way,  it  is 
rarely  refused.  The  national  politeness  should  not,  however, 
lead  one  to  conclude  that  the  laws  are  less  rigid  against  vio- 
lators, and  that  fortresses,  arsenals,  and  the  like  can  be  photo- 
graphed with  impunity.  When  in  doubt,  ask  some  one  in 
authority. 

The  summer  sun  of  Mexico  is  high  and  subjects  stand  in 
their  own  shadows  with  intense  high-lights  on  the  pavements ; 
this  extreme  contrast  can  be  overcome  to  some  extent  by 
working  rather  against  than  with  the  source  of  light.  The  best 
results  come  from  having  the  light  shine  in  at  the  side  rather 
than  from  directly  behind.  The  winter  light  is  no  stronger 
than  that  elsewhere,  and  quite  as  much  time  is  required  in 
making  exposures  as  would  be  given  anywhere  in  the  U.  S.  A. 
The  ordinary  snap  exposure  with  diaphragm  No.  8 for  hand- 
camera  work  is  2V th  of  a second.  For  distant  views,  and  for 
work  on  lake  or  river,  use  a No.  16  diaphragm.  It  is  well  to 
remember  that  the  broad-brim  Mexican  hats  make  heavy 
shadows,  and  that  pictures  taken  from  above  are  apt  to  be 
unsatisfactory.  In  making  pictures  on  light  cloudy  days  use 
a No.  4 diaphragm.  On  cloudy  days  one  can  sometimes  obtain 
beautiful  results  by  exposures  directly  toward  the  setting  sun. 
Mexican  cloud  effects  are  oftentimes  magnificent,  and  a ray 
filter  will  aid  materially  in  reproducing  them.  (The  relative 
increase  in  exposure  with  a ray  filter  is  determined  by  the 
density  of  the  glass.) 

Church  interiors  offer  fine  possibilities,  and  the  light  — 


lxxx 


PHOTOGRAPHY 


which  comes  from  above  and  is  diffused  — is  generally  good. 
The  best  results  are  usually  obtained  from  a two-minute  ex- 
posure (rest  your  camera  on  the  projecting  edge  of  some  pillar 
or  altar  railing)  with  a No.  64  diaphragm.  In  photograph- 
ing native  types,  it  is  well  to  remember  that  a ragged  urchin 
will  stand  just  as  still  for  25  cents  as  he  will  for  a peso. 

Everywhere  on  the  Great  Central  Plateau  (to  which  the 
above  remarks  refer)  dryness  is  the  emphatic  quality  of  the 
air,  and  the  shadows  are  cool.  Dark  rooms  do  not  become 
stuffy,  particularly  in  Mexico  City  and  other  high  places,  where 
one  can  work  to  splendid  advantage,  as  films  never  soften  in 
the  fingers.  Water  from  any  tank  located  in  a shady  spot 
on  the  roof  will  serve  in  the  developing.  Conditions  are  very 
different  in  the  hot  lowlands,  where  the  air  is  moist  and  the 
water  tepid  — or  with  vegetable  matter  in  solution. 

As  a rule,  plates  are  unsatisfactory  in  the  hot  country.  Be- 
fore leaving  the  table-land,  have  your  films  sealed  in  tin  tubes, 
and  when  the  tropics  are  reached,  load  the  camera  and  use  the 
films  at  once,  then  return  them  to  the  box.  They  spoil  verv 
quickly  after  exposure  to  the  moist  atmosphere,  and  the  next 
day  after  being  opened,  may  see  them  useless.  They  will  nat- 
urally keep  longer  before  being  opened.  Where  the  condition 
of  tropical  water  is  unknown,  tank  or  machine  development 
should  not  be  attempted,  as  much  of  the  water  contains  lime, 
iron,  etc.  Immediately  after  making  exposures,  films  should  be 
re-sealed  in  the  tube  and  sent  to  the  highlands  for  developing. 
The  traveller  who  carries  his  films  back  to  the  U.  S.  A.  before 
developing  them  is  apt  to  lose  much  of  his  work. 

It  is  well  to  remember  that  sun-umbrellas  cast  -wide  shadows 
and  render  difficult  the  taking  of  faces  under  them.  Also  that 
in  humid,  tropical  places,  films  should  not  remain  too  long  in 
the  camera;  unless  they  are  kept  in  a tin  case  they  may  spoil. 
In  fact  in  such  places  both  camera  and  films  should  be  stored 
in  oiled  paper  or  some  waterproof  covering.  Owing  to  peculiar 
climatological  conditions  in  the  hot  country  films  on  a roll 
sometimes  will  show  under-exposure,  while  others  will  be  over- 
exposed. 

Contrary  to  the  general  impression,  bull-fight  pictures  do 
not  necessarily  require  rapid  exposure.  By  watching  for  a 
chance,  and  photographing  a group  when  momentarily  in- 
active, one  can  usually  get  good  results  with  a oV th  of  a sec- 
ond, or  ordinary  instantaneous  exposure.  If  you  see  good 
material  for  a picture  during  the  baiting  of  the  first  bull, 
snap  it,  and  don’t  wait  for  the  appearance  of  the  second  ani- 
mal, as  the  same  combination  may  never  again  present  itself; 
furthermore,  as  the  fight  proceeds  (comp.  p.  xcvii)  the  light 
grows  dim  with  the  advancing  twilight.  Be  constantly  on 
your  guard  against  camera  thieves  — who  also  profit  by  time 
exposures. 


PHOTOGRAPHY 


Ixxxo 


Mountain  Photography.  The  traveller  interested  in  obtaining  first-hand 
pictures  of  volcanoes  is  reminded  that  the  sulphur  fumes  which  emanate 
from  them  are  apt  to  attack  the  silver  in  films  brought  into  proximity  to 
them,  and  to  ruin  isochromatic  plates  even  when  these  are  protected  by  dark 
slides.  Exposed  plates  will  often  be  found  to  be  covered  with  blotches,  and 
parts  of  the  negatives  positive.  Ordinary  plates  are  the  best  for  such  work, 
as  the  sulphurous  vapors  do  not  always  affect  them.  Those  who  know  what 
it  means  to  make  an  expensive,  and  perhaps  hazardous,  journey  to  the  top 
of  an  active  volcano  in  order  to  get  photographic  results,  and  to  take  ad- 
vantage of  chances  that  may  never  re-occur,  only  perhaps  to  find  their 
work  fruitless,  will  appreciate  the  value  of  care  and  forethought. 

The  experienced  mountain  photographer  usually  carries  with  him  a col- 
lapsible tripod  ten  or  twelve  feet  high,  with  a step-ladder  accompaniment, 
to  facilitate  the  taking  of  pictures  in  a crater,  over  the  volcano’s  lip. 

It  is  of  supreme  importance  to  remember  to  take  every  possible  precau- 
tion against  pneumonia  while  working  at  high  elevations  in  Mexico;  for 
first-hand  mountain  photography  there  is  fraught  with  peril. 

The  amateur  interested  in  mountain  photography  will  do  well,  before 
undertaking  climbing  expeditions,  to  seek  the  advice  of  experts  with  local 
experience.  Mr.  Hugo  Brehme,  Ace.  5 de  Mayo  27,  Mexico  City , whose  re- 
markably beautiful  pictures  of  Mexican  life  in  many  of  its  phases  are  the 
delight  of  artists  and  laymen,  has  perhaps  had  the  widest  experience  of  any 
photographer  in  Mexico  in  mountain  work.  His  pictures  are  on  sale  at  the 
best  stores,  and  they  are  widely  used  to  illustrate  articles  on  Mexico. 


English- Spanish  Photographic  Terms 


Camera,  cdmara 

(cah-mah-rah) 
Folding,  plegadiza 

(pleh-gah-de  e-sah) 
Portable,  portatil 

(pohr-tah-teel) 

Film,  pelicula 

(pay-lee-coo-lah) 

Roll  of,  rollo  de  (ro-yo-day) 
Plate,  placa  fotografica 

(plah-cah  fo-toh-grah-fee-cah) 
Plate-holder,  porta-placas 

(pohr-tah  plah-cahs) 
Tripod,  tripie 
(tree-pee-a) 

Diaphragm,  diafragma 

(de-ah-frag-mah) 
Ray-filter,  filtra-rayos 

(feel-trah-rah-yohs) 
Shutter,  obturador 

(ohb-too-rah-door) 


Photograph,  fotografia 

(fo-toh-grah-fee-ah) 
Photographer,  fotografo 

(fo-toh-grah-fo) 
To  photograph,  fotografiar 

(fo-toh-grah-fee-ahr) 
Photography,  fotografia 

(fo-toh-grah-fee-ah) 

Photographically, 

fotograficamente 
(fo-toh-grah-fee-cah-men-teh) 
Exposure,  exposicion 

(ex-po-see-se-own) 
Instantaneous,  instantdnea 
(een-stahn-tah-ne-ah) 
To  develop,  revelar 

(ray-veh-lahr) 
Developer,  revelador 

(ray-veh-lah-door) 
Bath,  bano  (bahn-yo) 

Lens,  lente  (len-teh) 


Trigger,  ratchet,  dispar  ador,  per  a (dees-pah-rah-door,  peh-rah) 


When  Mexicans  speak  of  a portrait,  picture,  or  likeness,  they  express  it  by 
the  word  retrato  (ray -trah- toh).  A portrait-painter,  or  photographer  of 
such  is  retratista  (ray-trah-tees-tah).  The  familiar  expression  for  photo  is 
estampa  fotogrdfica  (es-tahm-pah  foh-toh-grah-fee-cah).  To  photograph  is 
retratar  (ray-trah-tahr)  por  la  fotografia,  or  sacar  (sah-cahr)  una  (OO-nah)  fo- 
tografia.1 


1 The  phonetic  pronunciation  of  many  terms  similar  to  the  above  will  be 
found  in  Terry's  Short  Cut  to  Spanish,  referred  to  on  the  first  cover  page  of 
this  book. 


lxxxfr 


PHOTOGRAPHY 


The  amateur  photographer  in  Mexico  is  advised  to  use  an 
Exposure  Meter.  Good  ones  may  be  secured  from  almost  any  j 
dealer.  Perhaps  the  best  is  the  Harvey  No.  2,  which  by  a 
simple  adjustment  can  be  used  in  any  latitude  and  at  any  ( 
season  of  the  year.  In  the  absence  of  such  a meter  consult  1 
the  following  table.  It  is  practical  and  in  a majority  of  i 
cases  will  ensure  a successful  exposure. 

It  is  based  on  a normal  exposure  at  diaphragm  stop  8,  | 
according  to  Universal  System  (U.  S.)  which  is  equivalent  j 
to  stop  11  in  the  F system. 

The  greatest  aperture  on  Box  Cameras,  and  in  fact  all  ; 
cameras  equipped  with  a single,  or  Meniscus  Achromatic 
lens  and  whose  diaphragm  stops  are  numbered  1-2-3  as  on 
some  models  of  Kodaks,  is  equivalent  to  U.  S.  16. 


APPROXIMATELY  CORRECT  EXPOSURES  WITH  STOP  F.8 


U.  S.  1.2 

2 

2.5 

4 

8 

16 

32 

64 

Kodak  Stops 

1 

2 

3 

Stop  numbers  F = 4.5 

5.6 

6.3 

8 

11 

16 

22 

32 

Relative  exposure  550 

350 

235 

160 

80 

40 

20 

10 

Talbe  shows  exposures  with  Graflex  Film,  Eastman  Film,  Seed  30  Plates. 

With  Seed  Graflex  Plates,  shutter  speed  can  be  increased  one-third. 

Exposures  ■with  stops  Larger  or 

Smaller 

May 

June 

Mar. 

Apr. 

Jan. 

Feb. 

than  F . 8 should  be  respectively  D ecreased 

July 

Aug. 

Sept. 

Oct. 

Nov. 

Dec. 

ceeding  larger  or  smaller  stop  used. 

9 AM 

7 AM 

10  AM 

S AM 

11  AM 

9 AM 

Example  = Third  group — May  — 

•Bright — 

to 

and 

to 

and 

to 

and 

9 A.M.  to  3 P.M.  = 160— 

F8. 

3 PM 

5 PM 

2 PM 

4 PM 

1 PM 

3 PM 

Distant — Landscapes, 

Bright 

Mountains,  Vessels 

Sun 

350 

160 

295 

135 

235 

110 

Very  Open — Beach  Views, 
Snow  Scenes,  River  Views 

Hazy 

195 

90 

160 

75 

135 

60 

Aviators  in  Flight 

Cloudy 

Open  Views  from  Train 

Dull 

80 

50 

65 

40 

50 

35 

Open — Landscapes,  Roads  Bright 

& Fields,  Snow  Scenes 

Sun 

195 

110 

160 

90 

135 

75 

Nearby — Beach  Views, 

Vessels  and  Boats 

Hazy 

110 

60 

90 

50 

65 

40 

Light  Buildings,  Athletic 

Cloudy 

Events  from  Grandstand 

Dull 

65 

35 

50 

30 

35 

25 

Vessels  at  Wharf,  Medium 

Cloudy 

Buildings,  Light  Streets 

Dull 

50 

25 

40 

20 

30 

15 

Shady  Park  Views,  Figures 

Bright 

in  Shade  of  Building  or 

Sun 

110 

60 

90 

50 

80 

40 

with  Dark  Background 

Hazy 

65 

35 

50 

30 

40 

25 

Light  City  Street,  Shady 

Cloudy 

20 

Porch  groups 

Dull 

35 

20 

30 

15 

10 

Shady  Driveway,  Views 
with  Overhanging  Trees 

Sunny 

50 

30 

40 

25 

35 

20 

Hazy 

30 

20 

25 

15 

20 

10 

Figures  under  Piazza 

Cloudy 

Dark  City  Street 

Dull 

20 

10 

15 

1-5 

10 

1-2 

CACTI 


lxxxi 


It  should  be  remembered  that  though  the  light  in  Mexico 
seems  extremely  brilliant,  for  some  inexplicable  reason,  it  has 
no  great  actinic  value,  and  that  one  is  prone  to  underexpose. 

The  American  Photo  Supply  Co.,  S.  A.,  Ave.  F.  I.  Madero 
No.  40,  Mexico  City,  makes  a specialty  of  developing  for 
travellers. 

X.  Cacti.  Mescal.  Tequila.  Aguardiente.  Pulque. 

Cacti.  Mexico  has  its  share  of  the  500  or  more  species  of 
cacti  found  in  America,  and  the  plants  ( Cactacea , an  order  of 
Caly ci floral  dicotyledons)  grow  in  great  profusion  in  many  parts 
of  the  Republic.  They  form  the  dominant  vegetation  of  cer- 
tain vast  plains  which  stretch  along  the  Great  Central  Plateau. 
Some  thrive  best  on  the  sandy  lowlands  of  Yucatan,  others  on 
the  yellow  plains  of  Sonora.  Most  prominent  among  the  latter 
are  the  species  Cerei,  which  rise  to  a height  of  sixty  feet  or 
more;  their  straight,  rigid,  and  spiny  trunks  supporting  great 
branches  like  candelabra  — whence  the  name  Candelabra 
cacti.  Others  creep  along  the  ground,  and  some  species,  while 
showing  but  a small  bunch  of  leaves  or  pads  above  ground,  will 
possess,  beneath  the  surface,  a tap-root  as  large  as  a barrel; 
from  this  circumstance  the  plant  is  often  called  the  “spring 
of  the  desert.”  If  unmolested,  nearly  all  the  cacti  develop 
brilliant  flowers : all  are  covered  with  spines,  and  some  are 
strangely  grotesque  in  shape.  Some  are  cultivated,  and  they 
produce  considerable  private  and  national  wealth.  Others 
serve  the  natives  in  a variety  of  ways,  and  are  of  almost  ines- 
timable value  — particularly  to  the  poorer  folk,  to  whom  they 
stand  in  the  same  relation  that  the  reindeer  do  to  the  Laps  — 
providing  food,  drink,  and  raiment.  All  the  species  may  be 
said  to  have  good  points.  Certain  of  them  produce  delicious 
fruits  — notably  the  Nopal  and  the  Pitahaya  — and  from  the 
roots  of  others  a variety  of  sweetmeats  are  prepared.  The 
natives  fashion  wicker  stools  and  matting  from  their  tough 
fibres,  and  prepare  an  appetizing  stewed  dish  (with  a taste 
like  okra)  from  the  spiny  nopal  pads.  Several  beverages 
(p.  lxxxii)  are  distilled  from  the  roots  of  certain  of  the 
plants.  Most  prominent  among  the  cacti  is  the  Maguey 
(Aztec,  metl),  the  generic  name  for  33  species  which  thrive  on 
the  Mex.  plateau.  Of  these  species  the  American  Aloe  or 
Pulque-plant  is  the  best  known  and  the  greatest  wealth  pro- 
ducer. (Although  in  Mexico  the  Aloe  or  Agave  is  usually  classed 
with  the  cacti,  it  is  really  a genus  of  plants  of  the  natural 
order  Amaryllidacece.)  It  thrives  best  at  an  altitude  of  7,000 
ft.,  and  while  it  grows  prolifically  at  a lesser  elevation,  it  re- 
quires a longer  time  to  mature.  In  some  places  — notably 
New  Mexico,  Arizona,  Texas,  and  Lower  California  — the 
plant  matures  so  slowly  and  flowers  so  rarely  that  there 
are  persons  who  believe  it  blossoms  but  once  in  a hundred 


Ixxxii 


MESCAL 


years  — hence  the  name  “Century  Plant.”  No  vegetable 
product  of  the  Mexican  plains  is  so  imposing  as  the  maguey , 
and  the  Greek  agave  (noble)  is  fittingly  applied  to  it.  From 
the  equitant  leaves,  juice,  and  roots  of  the  different  species,  a 
variety  of  products  are  obtained : paper,  vinegar,  molasses,  and 
whatnot  are  made  from  the  pulp;  and  twine,  thread,  and 
many  other  articles  from  the  fibres.  The  fine  fibre  called  pita 
(a  name  often  applied  to  the  plant)  makes  very  serviceable 
rope,  which,  though  less  pliable  than  hemp  and  less  impervious  i 
to  water,  is  strong  and  durable  enough  for  many  purposes. 
Some  of  the  most  valuable  Aztec  manuscripts  were  written  | 
or  painted  on  paper  made  from  the  maguey , and  this  parch- 
ment was  long  considered  the  equal  of  Egyptian  papyrus. 
Certain  of  the  plants  attain  enormous  size,  and  from  the  hard, 
spiny,  green-and-white  leaves  — usually  tipped  with  sharp 
thorns,  or  espinas  — the  natives  obtain  a satisfactory  needle 
and  thread  by  stripping  off  the  thorns,  pulling  out  the  at- 
tached fibres,  and  rolling  them  together.  The  poorer  folk  i 
thatch  their  rude  homes  with  the  long  maguey  leaves  — plac- 
ing them  lengthwise,  like  shingles : the  concave  side  serves  as  a j 
trough  through  which  the  water  falling  from  the  eaves  is  car- 
ried away.  From  these  same  leaves  a large,  fat  worm  is  ex- 
tracted and  eaten  by  the  Indians,  who  consider  it  a great  deli-  ; 
cacy.  The  lower  leaves  and  the  roots  are  roasted,  and  from 
them  are  distilled  two  fiery,  gin-like  beverages,  Tequila  and  i 
Mescal  — popular  with  all  classes.  But  of  far  greater  import-  I 
a nee  is  the  production  of  the  liquor  called  Pulque  — a pro-  i 
duct  which  has  a direct  bearing  on  the  destiny  of  the  Mexican  I 
nation. 

Mescal,  a product  of  the  agave , is  made  in  the  States  of  Jalisco,  I 
Sinaloa,  Puebla,  Hidalgo,  and  Michoacan,  and  its  consumption  by  the  II 
lower  classes  is  very  large.  Tequila  is  distilled  from  a species  of  maguey  jj 
called  Zotol , which  grows  extensively  in  the  State  of  Jalisco,  near  the  i 
town  of  Tequila — whence  its  name.  Both  liquors  are  transparent  and  p 
harmless-looking,  but  they  are  to  be  studiously  avoided.  A wine-glass  I 
full  will  render  the  uninitiated  intoxicated  to  the  finger-tips.  When 
drunk  after  eating  certain  Mex.  fruits,  it  is  said  to  engender  sinister  re- 
sults. A common  man  drunk  on  tequila  or  mescal  oftentimes  harbors  I 
murderous  intentions. 

Aguardiente  (brandy),  which  resembles  tequila  and  is  often  confounded  j 
with  it,  is  usually  distilled  from  sugar-cane,  although  it  is  sometimes 
made  from  grapes.  It  is  manufactured  in  large  quantities  in  the  sugar-  k 
producing  States  of  Vera  Cruz,  Morelos,  Jalisco,  Oaxaca,  Mexico,  Coa-  E 
huila,  ana  Yucatan. 

Pulque.  In  the  production  of  pulque  the  plants  are  care-H 
fully  cultivated . As  soon  as  an  old  plant  withers,  a multitude 
of  young  shoots,  or  suckers,  spring  up  from  the  roots,  and  they 
are  removed  and  planted  in  symmetrical  lines  with  a space 
of  about  three  yards  left  between  each.  If  the  soil  is  rich, 
they  require  no  attention  until  the  flowering  period,  which  is 
reached  after  7-10  years.  During  this  period  they  are  unpro-j 
ductive.  The  plant  is  not  easily  affected  by  heat  or  cold,  and 


PULQUE 


lxxxiii 


it  requires  but  little  water.  Like  the  vine,  the  maguey  yields 
the  best  liquor,  independent  of  the  climate,  in  volcanic  or  sili- 
ceous soil.  When  full  grown  the  plant  bears  a striking  resem- 
blance to  an  exaggerated  imbricated  artichoke  ( alcachofa ) . The 
leaves  are  sometimes  ten  ft.  in  length,  a foot  in  breadth,  and 
eight  or  ten  inches  thick.  From  the  centre  of  these  great, 
fibrous  leaves,  the  plant  will,  if  unmolested,  send  up  a giant 
flower-stalk  20  or  30  ft.  high,  upon  which  cluster  two  or  three 
thousand  greenish  yellow  flowers;  after  this  crowning  effort 
the  exhausted  plant  dies.  It  is  when  in  the  throes  of  borning 
the  flower  that  the  central  shoot  is  cut  off,  and  then,  for  two 
or  three  months,  the  sap  ( aguamiel , or  honey- water) , which 
was  destined  to  give  brief  life  and  beauty  to  the  aloe’s  brilliant 
offspring,  flows  into  the  basin  prepared  for  it  and  is  converted 
into  pulque.  When  the  stem  is  cut  off  short,  the  heart  of  the 
plant  is  scooped  out,  leaving  only  the  thick  outer  rind,  which 
forms  a small  hollow  in  which  the  juice  gathers.  In  a maguey 
field  {maguey al)  these  mutilated  plants  are  readily  distin- 
guishable by  the  fresh  heart  which  is  stuck  on  one  of  the  sharp 
spines  — as  a signal  to  the  gatherers  that  the  plant  is  ready 
for  attention.  The  tlachiqueros,  or  harvesters,  know  by  un- 
mistakable signs,  almost  the  hour  at  which  the  central  stem, 
destined  to  produce  the  flower,  is  about  to  appear,  and  the 
extraction  of  the  heart  of  the  plant  is  quickly  accomplished. 
If  performed  too  soon  or  too  late,  the  operation  is  unsuccess- 
ful and  the  plant  dies. 

A productive  plant  will  yield  from  ten  to  fifteen  pints  of 
unfermented  juice  every  day  until  it  dies.  Two  or  three  times 
a day  the  liquid  is  drawn  from  its  receptacle  by  means  of  a 
gourd-like  instrument  (made  from  a species  of  calabash  — 
Lagenaria  vulgaris)  with  a small  tube  at  each  end,  that  acts 
like  a pipette,  and  is  called  an  acocote  (also  guaje).  One  end  is 
thrust  in  the  liquid,  the  other  is  placed  in  the  peon’s  mouth, 
and  suction  draws  the  sap  into  the  central  bulb.  Then  the  peon 
stops  the  lower  hole  with  his  finger,  to  prevent  the  escape  of 
the  liquor,  and  proceeds  to  fill  the  pig-skin.  When  this  pig- 
(or  sheep-)  skin  — which  is  usually  slung  athwart  the  tlachi - 
quero’s  back  — is  full,  the  aguamiel  is  transferred  to  the  tinacal , 
or  fermen ting-rooms  at  the  hacienda.  This  “ honey- water  ” is 
sweet  to  the  taste,  and  is  devoid  of  the  offensive  odor  character- 
istic of  the  finished  pulque . Fermentation  is  hastened  by  the 
introduction  of  madre , or  mother -pulque,  that  has  been  kept 
for  a fortnight  and  allowed  to  become  rank  and  sour,  mixed 
with  the  fresh  liquid  it  acts  as  a sort  of  leaven  and  excites 
quick  change.  Within  24  hours  the  mass  becomes  the  pulque 
of  commerce.  Twenty-two  of  the  33  species  of  maguey  pro- 
duce aguamiel , and  six  pulque  fmo,  or  fine  pulque. 

Pulque  is  an  alcoholic  (about  6%)  mucilaginous  liquor,  holding  m 
suspension  white  corpuscles  which  give  it  its  color;  it  has  an  odor  8ui 


Ixxxiv 


PULQUERfAS 

generis , a taste  peculiarly  its  own  (somewhat  of  the  nature  of  sour  butter- 
milk), and  is  more  or  less  sugary  — depending  upon  its  strength.  It 
resembles  watered  milk  or  thin  flour  paste.  It  spoils  quickly,  and  one 
day  converts  it  into  madre-pulque  and  gives  it  the  status  of  stale  beer. 
It  is  akin  to  the  durian  of  the  Malay  Archipelago  and  to  certain  European 
cheeses,  in  that  its  taste  is  supportable  if  one  can  induce  one’s  nose  to 
become  reconciled  to  the  smell  — which  is  not  unlike  that  of  sulphur- 
etted hydrogen  or  fetid  eggs.  The  natives  ascribe  stomachic  qualities 
to  it  and  imbibe  it  in  staggering  doses. 

The  unfermented  aguamiel  “is  a limpid  liquor  golden  in  color,  some- 
times whitish  and  mucilaginous  (according  to  the  species  of  the  maguey ), 
with  a bitter-sweet  flavor  and  of  an  herbaceous  odor.  When  first  taken 
from  the  root-stalk  of  the  maguey  at  the  point  where  the  floral  peduncle 
begins  to  unfold,  it  froths  when  shaken,  gives  an  abundant  precipitate 
with  sub-acetate  of  lead,  and  when  filtered  the  resultant  liquor  is  color- 
less. An  analysis  of  aguamiel  by  a celebrated  chemist  gave  glucose, 
albumen,  sugar,  and  water  as  the  principal  ingredients.” 

The  finished  pulque  is  stored  in  hogsheads  and  sold  in  pulquerias  — 
pulque  shops.  The  best  pulque  is  said  to  come  from  the  Plains  of  Apam, 
the  centre  of  which  is  the  town  of  Apam  (p.  497).  Long  trains  loaded 
only  with  pulque,  leave  this  district  each  morning  and  bring  the  product 
to  the  pulquerias  of  the  city. 

The  Pulquerias  are,  as  a rule,  squalid  and  repulsive  dens, 
usually  distinguishable  by  a fringe  of  soiled,  vari-colored  tissue 
paper  strung  across  the  entrance;  by  fa9ades  painted  in  lurid 
colors  and  marked  by  low,  bacchanalian  scenes  in  which 
frowsy  females  in  diaphanous  draperies  are  the  central  fig- 
ures ; by  the  sour  smell  imparted  by  the  pulque , and  by  the 
odd  names  given  them  by  the  caprice  of  the  proprietors. 
A long  counter  stands  across  the  interior ; barrels  painted  in 
vivid  colors  are  ranged  along  the  wall ; scores  of  cheap  crockery 
plates  are  sometimes  features  of  the  alleged  decoration,  and 
tall  glasses  (exaggerated  schooners)  of  pink  and  red  pulque 
(like  circus  lemonade)  stand  upon  the  counter  at  each  end. 
The  pulquerias  are  usually  thronged  with  blear-eyed,  sodden 
male  and  female  degenerates,  and  they  are  the  foci  of  much 
of  the  crime  which  shames  the  intelligent  element  of  the  capi- 
tal. Albeit  the  intoxicating  qualities  of  pulque  are  slight,  its 
cheapness  (3  to  5 c.  a quart)  enables  the  poorest  to  buy  it. 
The  consumers  are  chiefly  the  idle  and  the  common  laboring 
classes,  to  whom  it  is  meat,  drink,  and  a constant  stimulus  to 
crime.  Thus  the  very  poorest  and  most  ignorant  of  the  city's 
population  — those  who  stand  most  in  need  of  education  and 
uplifting  — spend  20,000  pesos  each  day  for  the  100  or  more 
carloads  that  come  to  the  city.  The  Mexican’s  opinion  of  the 
beverage  is  expressed  in  the  following  lines : 

“£  Sabe  que  es  pulque, — Know  you  not  that  pulque 

Licor  divino?  Is  a liquor  divine, 

Lo  beben  los  angeles  And  that  angels  in  heaven 

En  vez  de  vino.”  Prefer  it  to  wfine? 

The  pulque  obtainable  fresh  at  Apam  may  unite  the  many 
qualities  ascribed  to  it  by  certain  doctors  and  devotees.  The 
manipulation  of  that,  other  than  the  bottled  pulque  (which  is 
sold  in  considerable  quantities  in  the  capital  and  is  well  spoken 


HISTORY  OF  PULQUE 


lxxxv 


of),  is  said  to  be  at  variance  with  the  promptings  of  hygiene, 
and  inimical  to  certain  accepted  ideas  of  bacteriology. 

History.  The  Spanish  conquist adores  found  the  Aztecs  to  possess  a 
tribal  drink  called  neutle  (pulque).  The  vice  was  an  inheritance  from 
the  Toltecs,  received  through  the  tribes  which  the  Aztecs  conquered 
and  drove  from  the  Valley  of  Anahuac.  The  early  Nahuas  knew  the 
maguey  juice  as  octli.  Pulque  or  pulchre , is  a Chilean  aboriginal  term, 
applied  to  the  liquor  in  some  unaccountable  way  by  the  Spaniards. 
The  following  legend  refers  to  the  discovery  of  pulque: 

“During  the  reign  of  Tepancaltzin  (8th  King  of  the  Toltecs),  one 
Papantzin , a kinsman  of  the  king,  observed  a field-mouse  gnawing  a 
hole  in  the  central  bulb  of  a growing  maguey.  Securing  the  curdy 
liquid  which  oozed  therefrom,  Papantzin  sent  it  to  the  monarch,  employ- 
ing as  messenger  his  lovely  daughter  Xochitl.  The  impressionable  king 
forcibly  detained  the  girl  and  placed  her  in  his  harem.  From  their  union 
was  born  a child  called  Meconetzin,  or  ‘Child  of  the  Maguey.’  The 
downfall  of  the  Toltecs  dated  from  that  epoch.  In  their  thirst  for  the 
bianco  neutli  they  neglected  the  arts  — in  the  exercise  of  which  they 
were  noteworthy — agriculture,  and  the  warlike  practices  that  had  ena- 
bled them  to  maintain  a footing  among  the  barbarous  tribes  which  sur- 
rounded them.  Their  virility  vanished,  and  they  were  driven  out  of  the 
Valley  of  Mexico  by  the  first  strong  tribe  (the  Chichimecs,  about  the  year 
1100)  that  appeared  to  dispute  their  sway.  In  commemoration  of  the 
legend  many  of  the  pulquerias  (p.  lxxxiv)  call  their  places  La  Hermosa 
Xochitl  — in  the  Toltec  tongue,  ‘Beautiful  Flower.’  ” (Comp.  p.  316.) 

Convinced  of  the  prejudicial  effects  of  the  drink  upon  the  Indians, 
and  believing  that  much  of  the  cruelty  practised  by  the  Aztecs  was 
traceable  to  its  brutalizing  effects,  several  of  the  Spanish  Viceroys  strove 
to  stifle  the  traffic.  The  first  edict  against  it  was  launched  in  May,  1635, 
by  the  Marques  de  Mancera.  The  measure  received  the  sustained  sup- 
port of  Fray  Payo  de  Rivera , Archbishop  of  Mexico;  of  the  Conde  de 
Paredes , the  Marques  de  la  Laguna , the  Conde  de  Monclova  (28th  Vice- 
roy), and  many  other  men  of  note,  but  the  campaign  failed  of  its 
purpose.  The  edict  issued  June  8,  1692,  by  the  29th  Viceroy,  Conde 
de  Galve,  resulted  in  a formidable  riot;  his  palacio  was  stoned  and  an 
infuriated  mob  burned  several  public  buildings.  During  the  century 
following,  many  pamphlets  were  written  on  the  pernicious  effects  of 
ptdgue-drinking.  The  archives  at  the  Municipal  Palace  of  Mexico  City 
contain  many  documents  which  passed  between  the  Viceroys  of  New 
Spain,  the  Spanish  King,  and  the  Consejo  de  las  Indias , treating  of  the 
terrible  vice  and  its  wide-reaching  influence  for  harm.  During  the  reign 
of  the  51st  Viceroy,  El  Conde  de  Revilla  Gigedo  (in  1789-94),  the  annual 
consumption  of  pulque  in  Mexico  City  was  four  million  arrobas,  or  one 
hundred  million  lbs.,  and  the  net  revenue  to  the  Crown  from  its  sale  was 
800.000  pesos. 

The  Nopal  Manso,  or  Cactus  Opuntia,  thrives  best  on  the 
elevated  table-land,  and  it  reaches  its  greatest  perfection  in 
the  State  of  Hidalgo.  An  odd  feature  of  the  plant  is  that  each 
oval  pad  is  a unit  from  which  the  entire  tree  is  composed.  As 
it  attains  age  and  development  the  lower  internodes  harden 
and  produce  a false  kind  of  bark  before  merging  into  the  sem- 
blance of  a tree-trunk.  It  usually  presents  a variety  of  shad- 
ings, from  a deep,  greenish-brown  at  the  base  to  a bright  green 
at  the  upper  terminal  pads.  When  a branch  is  broken  off  a 
bundle  of  delicate,  lace-like  fibres  is  exposed  instead  of  splin- 
ters and  decayed  wood.  Around  the  edges  of  the  prickly  pads 
grows  a delicious  fruit  — the  Prickly-pear  of  the  American 
and  the  Australian,  the  Indian-fig  of  the  Englishman,  the 
Barbary- fig  of  the  Frenchman,  and  the  Tuna  of  the  Mexican. 


lxxxvi 


ORGAN  CACTUS 


It  is  about  the  size  of  a duck’s  egg,  covered  with  fine  prickles, 
as  full  of  seeds  as  an  ordinary  fig,  and  of  a color  which  ranges 
from  whitish-gray  to  a beautiful  crimson.  A peculiarity  of  the 
fruit  is  that  it  is  always  cool  when  plucked,  although  it 
may  have  been  taken  from  a plant  growing  on  a sandy  desert 
exposed  to  the  direct  rays  of  a blistering  sun.  A cooling  drink 
— colonche  — is  squeezed  from  it.  During  the  fruiting  season 
the  natives,  in  certain  districts,  subsist  almost  entirely  upon 
the  tuna,  which  is  almost  80  % water.1 

In  districts  where  herbage  is  rare,  and  the  nopal  is  plentiful, 
cattle  feed  on  the  pulpy  pads  — devouring  them  along  with 
the  thorns  and  stems.  The  plants  make  effective  hedge-fences, 
and  for  this  purpose  they  are  widely  employed. 

The  nopal  figures  prominently  in  Mex.  history.  It  ornaments  the 
national  banner,  and  is  stamped  upon  many  of  the  old  Mex.  coins.  For 
many  years  the  primitive  Aztecs  wandered  southward  in  search  of  their 
traditional  nopal , with  the  snake  and  eagle,  and  they  are  supposed  to 
have  found  it  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Tenochtitldn  (comp.  p.  clxiv). 

The  Organ  Cactus  ( Cereus  excelsus)  is  common  on  the 
wind-swept  highlands  of  the  Central  Plateau.  It  attains  con- 
siderable height,  is  often  found  in  bizarre  shapes,  and  its  deep- 
ribbed,  spiny  branches  usually  grow  in  clusters  on  a single 
parent  stem  — pointing  straight  upward  like  naked  fingers, 
with  thorns  and  flowers,  in  lieu  of  leaves  and  foliage.  This 
species  has  spines  as  sharp  as  needles,  and  saw  edges  that  rip 
anything  with  which  they  come  in  contact.  One  can  hardly 
strike  the  tall,  fluted  cylinders  without  striking  the  thorns.  The 
plants  bear  purple  flowers,  and  whosoever  wins  these,  deserves 
them.  They  are  stately  figures  of  the  desert  regions,  with 
“ lines  as  sinuous  as  those  of  a Moslem  minaret  and  flutings  as 
symmetrical  as  those  of  a Doric  column.”  2 

The  Biznaga,  commonly  called  the  barrel-cactus,  is  some- 
what rare,  and  is  noted  for  a thin,  short  tap-root  with  an  enor- 
mous upper  reservoir  in  which  it  stores  water.  It  possesses 
a most  formidable  armor  of  fish-hook-shaped  spines  that  no 
beast  or  bird  dare  penetrate.  The  different  forms  of  the  biz- 
naga are  little  more  than  vegetable  porcupines,  bristling  with 

1 Experts  in  the  Department  of  Agriculture  of  the  United  States  have 
made  exhaustive  studies  of  the  tuna,  and  the  student  will  find  much  to 
interest  him  in  Bulletin  No.  116,  The  Tuna  as  a Food  for  Man,  issued  by  the 
Department  at  Washington;  and  in  Bulletins  Nos.  60  and  64,  issued  by 
the  Agricultural  Experiment  Station,  at  Agricultural  College.  New  Mexico. 

2 Closely  associated  with  the  Mexican  cacti  is  the  Cactus  Wren 
(C ampylorhynchus  hnmneicapiUus) , a small  wren  with  a grayish-brown 
back,  darker  on  the  head,  nearly  pure  white  beneath,  with  a spotted 
breast  and  a white  line  over  the  eye.  It  makes  a large,  flask-shaped 
nest  of  grasses  and  twigs,  lined  with  feathers,  and  lays  it  in  the  crotch 
of  a cactus.  This  nest  is  entered  by  a covered  way,  or  neck  several 
inches  in  length.  The  bird  is  very  sprightly,  with  a clear,  ringing  song. 
Were  it  not  for  the  nopal,  and  other  species  of  cacti,  the  Mexican  deserts 
would  be  devoid  of  bird-life.  When  pursued  by  hawks,  the  smaller  birds 
find  the  thorny  covers  a safe  and  always  convenient  retreat. 


PITAHAYA  CACTUS 


lxxxvii 


quills  or  hooks  that  catch  or  hold  the  intruder.  In  summer 
they  produce  a mass  of  yellow  flowers  that  later  turn  to  orange 
and  then  to  dark  red. 

The  Indian  method  of  extracting  water  from  the  biznaga  is  interest- 
ing. A plant  about  five  feet  high  is  selected,  the  top  is  cut  off,  and  a 
blunt  stake  is  used  to  pound  the  white  pulp  into  the  standing  trunk. 
This  flesh  is  then  removed  and  water  is  squeezed  from  it  into  a recep- 
tacle of  some  kind.  Two  or  three  quarts  of  clear,  slightly  salty,  and  a 
trifle  bitter  water  are  secured;  to  the  desert  traveller  parched  with  thirst 
it  is  more  than  grateful.  Tall  cacti  stems  are  deprived  of  their  moisture 
by  being  cut  down  and  placed  on  two  stones,  one  at  each  end.  The 
heavy  plant  sags  in  the  middle,  and  there  a small  hole  is  made.  Fires 
are  built  at  each  end,  the  heat  drives  the  water  to  the  centre,  where 
it  drips  into  a pan  or  bucket  placed  to  catch  it.  By  this  simple  method, 
coupled  with  the  knowledge  that  every  cactus  plant  is  a water  reser- 
voir, Indians  are  enabled  to  cross  so-called  desert  regions  where  white 
soldiers,  unequipped  with  the  information,  would  soon  perish. 

The  Echino  Cactus  1 ( Echinocactus  horizonthalonius) , called 
Peyote  in  Mexico,  and  known  in  the  United  States  as  the  Globe 
cactus , as  the  mescal  button,  and  as  Lophophora  Williamsii,  is 
one  of  the  most  curious  among  the  species.  Its  effect  on  the 
human  system  is  very  singular.  It  is  one  of  the  strongest 
stimulants  known.  It  allays,  for  the  moment,  all  feelijigs  of 
hunger  and  thirst;  it  produces  a direct  effect  on  the  genital 
organs  and  it  is  a powerful  aid  to  abstinence. 

The  Tarahumare  Indians  (p.  57)  and  the  Huicholes  (p.  92) 
maKe  a cult  of  the  plant  and  use  it  in  their  pharmacopoeia 
and  in  their  religious  observances.  They  undertake  long  and 
arduous  pilgrimages  to  secure  it,  make  sacrifices  to  it,  wor- 
ship it  as  a demi-god,  and  consider  it  a potent  talisman  against 
all  ills. 

The  Pitahaya  Cactus  ( Cereus  pitahaya)  is  an  ever-present 
feature  of  the  broad  plains  of  Sonora  (p.  80)  and  Lower  Cali- 
fornia (p.  84),  and  besides  growing  from  one  to  two  and  a half 
feet  in  diameter,  it  sometimes  reaches  a height  of  sixty  feet. 
It  is  first  cousin  to  the  organ  cactus,  and  it  produces  a fruit  allied 
to  the  tuna — soft,  sweet,  and  nourishing.  When  plucked  fresh 
and  cool,  at  dawn , it  is  delicious ; with  a taste  quite  different  from 
the  fruit  plucked  at  midday,  when  the  sun  has  shone  upon  it. 
It  ripens  when  most  needed  (at  the  height  of  the  June  dry 
season),  and  the  harvest  lasts  about  a month.  The  Mexicans 
and  Indians  are  so  fond  of  it  that  servants  sometimes  desert  at 
this  time  to  secure  it.  The  beautiful  macaw  ( guacamaya ) 
revels  in  it,  and  in  order  to  secure  it,  the  bird  arrives  from  its 
migration  to  southern  latitudes  when  the  pitahaya  is  in  bloom. 
The  Indians  believe  that  it  comes  to  see  what  the  harvest  will 
be,  for  it  flies  off  to  the  coast,  but  returns  unfailingly  in  June 
when  the  fruit  is  ripe.  The  lovely  white  flowers  of  the  plant 


1 For  curious  data  relating  to  this  cactus,  consult  Unknown  Mexico , 
by  Carl  Lumholtz.  (Comp.  p.  ccxl.) 


lxxxviii 


AMOLE  CACTUS 


are  never  found  growing  on  the  north  side  of  the  stem.  The 
plant  attains  to  great  perfection  in  Chihuahua  State,  in  the 
Tarahumare  country  (p.  57),  and  the  fruit  has  a place  in 
the  religious  rites  of  the  Tarahumare  Indians.  They  gather 
the  fruit  with  long  reed  sticks  armed  with  four  prongs,  then 
place  it  carefully  in  little  crates  of  split  bamboo  and  carry  it 
for  miles  to  sell  it  to  those  who  prize  it. 

Amole  (a  species  of  agave)  growls  in  many  parts  of  Mexico, 
and  is  known  by  the  generic  name  of  soap-weed,  because  na- 
tive soap  is  made  from  it.  Though  scarcely  larger  than  a big 
pineapple,  the  amole  sends  up  a gigantic  flower-stalk  12  to  15 
ft.  high  and  from  20  to  30  inches  in  circumference.  One  of 
these  huge  spikes  will  bear  as  many  as  20,000  beautiful  yellow 
blossoms,  each  as  large  as  a tulip : a multitude  of  humming- 
birds usually  feed  upon  them.  Certain  Indian  tribes  pound 
the  freshly-cut  leaves  of  the  amole  and  use  the  extracted  juice 
as  a poison.  Other  Indian  fishermen  crush  the  leaves,  expose 
them  to  the  sunlight  for  a few  hours,  and  throw  them  into 
a shallow  stream  and  trample  upon  them ; as  a result,  the  fish 
become  stupefied  and  many  die,  but  are  eaten,  as  the  poison 
does  not  affect  the  flesh. 

The  Cochineal  Cactus  ( Opuntia  coccinellifera),  described 
at  p.  543,  was  at  one  time  of  great  value  to  the  Mexicans,  who 
exported  cochineal  to  the  value  of  millions  of  pesos.  Since  the 
discovery  of  aniline  dyes,  the  cochineal  industry  has  dwindled. 

The  Agave  Sisalensis  or  Henequen  plant  is  indigenous  to 
Yucatan  and  is  described  at  p.  583. 

The  Yucca,  or  Spanish  Bayonet  (from  Yuca,  its  Santo 
Domingo  name),  a genus  of  American  liliaceous  plant  famil- 
iarly called  Adam’s  Needle,  is  one  of  the  most  stately  figures 
of  the  desert.  Its  cream-white  flowers  are  lovely. 

When  in  full  bloom  certain  of  the  cacti  are  very  beautiful. 

“What  could  be  more  lovely  than  the  waving  lightness,  the  drooping 
gracefulness  of  the  Lluvia  de  Oro,  the  swaying,  tossing,  well-called 
‘shower  of  gold.’  It  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  the  desert  trees, 
with  its  white  skin  like  the  Northern  birch,  its  long  needles  like  the  pine, 
and  the  downward  sweep  of  its  branches  like  the  willow.  A strange 
wild  tree  that  seems  to  shun  all  society,  preferring  to  dwell  like  a hermit 
among  the  rocks.  It  roots  itself  in  the  fissures  of  broken  granite,  and  it 
seems  at  its  happiest  when  it  can  let  down  its  shower  of  gold  over  some 
precipice.  Scarcely  less  interesting  is  the  Sangre  de  Dragon  (Dragon’s 
Hlood).  Cut  or  break  a twig  of  this  plant,  and  a red  sap  like  blood  runs 
out.  Touch  it  to  the  tongue,  and  it  proves  the  most  powerful  of  astrin- 
gents. The  Indians  use  it  to  cauterize  bullet  wounds.  Again  no  animal 
will  touch  it.”  (The  Desert , by  John  C.  Van  Dyke.) 


XI.  Mines.  Opals.  Jade.  Turquois.  Malachite.  Onyx. 

Mines.  Mexico,  called  by  Baron  Von  Humboldt  the  “ Treas- 
ure House  of  the  World/’  is  one  of  the  most  highly  mineral- 
ized regions  known.  Nature  has  endowed  it  wdth  mineral 
resources  well-nigh  inexhaustible,  for  albeit  vast  quantities  of 


MINES 


lxxxix 


precious  metals  have  been  taken  from  its  mines,  there  seems 
scarcely  any  limit  to  the  supply.  For  years  the  Republic  has 
figured  as  the  largest  producer  of  silver,  and  it  bids  fair  soon  to 
rank  high  among  the  gold-producing  countries  of  the  world.1 
The  great  mining  region  — the  argentiferous  deposits  of  which 
are  fabulously  rich  — runs  from  the  N.  W.  to  the  S.  E.,  follow- 
ing the  direction  of  the  Sierra  Madre  Cordillera , extending  (over 
1500  miles)  from  Sonora  at  the  N.  to  Oaxaca  at  the  S. 

With  the  exception  of  Campeche,  Tabasco,  and  Yucatan, 
every  State  in  the  Mex.  Republic  possesses  mines  — of  which 
there  are  some  21,000,  that  cover  633,213  acres  of  mineral 
land  and  give  employment  to  500,000  men.  Three  fourths 
of  the  mineral  possibilities  of  the  Repub.  are  said  to  be  yet 
unexploited;  but  that  they  are  attracting  the  attention  of 
capitalists  and  miners  is  proven  by  the  fact  that  upward  of  five 
thousand  mining  claims  are  registered  each  year.  The  greatest 
gold-mining  camp  in  Mexico,  if  not  on  the  continent,  is  at  Real 
del  Oro  (p.  199)  in  the  State  of  Mexico.  The  greatest  silver- 
producing  States  are  Guanajuato,  Zacatecas,  Durango,  So- 
nora, Chihuahua,  Mexico,  San  Luis  Potosf,  Hidalgo,  Jalisco, 
Sinaloa,  and  Oaxaca.  Guerrero  is  rich  in  gold. 

Many  mines  and  placer-workings  were  taken  over  from  the 
Indians  by  the  Spaniards,  and  the  latter  opened  up  many  new 
regions.  The  first  silver  taken  from  a Mexican  mine  by  Euro- 
peans and  sent  to  a European  country  came  (in  1521)  from  the 
still  celebrated  mines  of  Taxco  (p.  457)  in  the  State  of  Guer- 
rero. During  the  three  centuries  of  Spanish  dominion  (1521- 
1821),  over  three  billions  of  pesos  in  gold  and  silver  were  ex- 
tracted — almost  one  third  of  which  came  from  the  wonderful 
Mother  Vein  ( veta  madre)  at  Guanajuato  (p.  138).  According 
to  Mr.  W.  A.  Shaw  ( History  of  Currency ),  “by  means  of  these 
vast  remittances  of  precious  metals  the  discovery  of  Amer- 
ica was  the  salvation  and  monetary  resurrection  of  the  Old 
World.”  The  largest  silver  nugget  ever  found  in  Mexico  was 
discovered  near  a Papago  Indian  pueblo  in  Sonora  (p.  82),  and 
weighed  2,750  lbs. 

There  are  upward  of  one  thousand  copper-mines  in  the  Re- 
pub.; the  largest  group  being  those  at  Cananea  (p.  71),  said 
to  rank  third  in  size  in  the  world.  The  iron  mountain  at  Du- 
rango City  (p.  100)  is  perhaps  the  largest  solid  mass  of  iron 
known.  Many  of  the  Mexican  States  produce  beautiful  onyx. 
Queretaro  produces  the  opals  (p.  xci)  for  which  the  Mex.  Re- 
public is  famous.  The  fine  turquoises  and  turquois-matrix 
come  from  Zacatecas.  The  most  important  mercury  deposits 
(low  percentage)  are  at  Huitzuco,  some  70  M.  south  of  Mex. 
City.  Lead,  zinc,  antimony,  asphaltum  ( chapapote ),  marble, 
coal  (anthracite  and  semi-anthracite),  topazes,  emeralds,  jade- 

1 The  annual  output  of  gold  is  about  $35,000,000;  silver,  $60,000,000; 
copper,  $40,000,000. 


xc 


MINES 


ite.  nephrite,  amethysts,  garnets,  agates,  and  minor  products 
are  found  in  many  parts  of  the  country.  Extensive  salt  works 
(evaporation  process)  are  found  along  the  Pacific  coast. 

Igneous  rocks  of  almost  every  geologic  epoch  form,  to  a 
large  extent,  the  superstructure  of  the  Great  Central  Plateau, 
where  many  of  the  most  celebrated  mines  are  located.  This 
great  table-land  seems  to  consist  mainly  of  metamorphic  for- 
mations, which  have  been  partly  upheaved,  partly  interpene- 
trated and  overlaid  by  igneous  masses  of  all  epochs,  and  which 
are  chiefly  represented  by  shales,  greywacke,  greenstones, 
siliceous  schists,  and  unfossiliferous  limestones.  All  these  for- 
mations are  alike  remarkable  for  the  abundance  and  variety  of 
their  metalliferous  ores,  such  as  silver,  copper,  gold,  and  what- 
not. The  highest  ranges  are  formed  mainly  of  volcanic  rocks, 
such  as  granites,  syenites,  diorites,  mineral-bearing  trachytes, 
basalts,  porphyries,  obsidian  (p.  423),  pearlstone,  sulphur, 
pumice,  lavas,  tufas,  and  other  recent  volcanic  discharges. 

From  this  amazingly  prolific  region  the  Toltecs  and  Aztecs 
obtained  gold  and  silver,  not  only  from,  shafts  and  galleries 
sunk  at  great  expense  of  time  and  toil,  but  also  from  the  beds 
of  mountain  torrents,  and  the  auriferous  sands  of  the  coast 
streams.  Like  the  natives  of  Peru,  they  worked  mines  that 
dated  their  origin  from  a period  so  remote  that  no  man  knew 
when  they  were  begun.  Of  the  amount  of  metal  taken  from 
these  prehistoric  mines  there  is  no  record.  At  the  time  of  the 
Conquest  the  vassal  states  of  the  Aztec  Confederacy  paid  trib- 
ute to  Montezuma  in  silver,  dug  from  these  old  mines,  and  in 
“ golden  grains  found  in  the  rivers,  which  they  cast  into  bars 
and  made  into  wonderfully  wrought  objects.’'  According  to 
Prescott  ( Conquest  of  Mexico,  vol.  i,  chap,  vi,  p.  314),  among 
the  gifts  which  Montezuma’s  ambassadors  presented  to  Her - 
nan  Cortes , when  he  landed  at  Vera  Cruz  in  1519,  were  shields, 
helmets,  cuirasses  embossed  with  plates,  and  ornaments  of 
pure  gold ; imitations  of  birds  and  ornaments  in  wrought  and 
cast  gold  and  silver,  a Spanish  helmet  sent  to  the  capital  and 
returned  filled  to  the  brim  with  grains  of  gold,  and  two  circular 
plates  of  gold  as  large  as  carriage-wheels.  One,  representing 
the  sun,  and  no  doubt  denoting  the  Aztec  century,  was  richly 
carved  with  plants  and  animals,  and  was  thirty  palms  in  cir- 
cumference; it  was  valued  at  twenty  thousand  pesos  de  oro. 
The  silver  wheel,  of  the  same  size,  was  also  richly  carved.  The 
amount  of  gold  taken  from  Montezuma  by  the  Spaniards  and 
sent  to  Spain  is  estimated  at  $7,000,000. 

Little  formality  and  less  science  were  practised  by  the 
Spanish  miners,  and  of  the  3,000  mines  estimated  by  Hum- 
boldt to  be  in  operation  in  Mexico  in  1800,  not  one  was  worked 
scientifically;  the  methods  and  machinery  were  so  crude  and 
so  primitive  that  Indians  and  foreign  miners  to-day  make 
good  returns  by  working  over  the  old  tailings  thrown  out  ages 


MINES 


xci 


ago.  The  Crown  taxes  upon  mining,  blasting-powder,  and  the 
like  were  so  heavy  that  it  was  unprofitable  to  extract  ore 
carrying  less  than  100  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton.  The  “King’s 
Fifth  ” was  collected  upon  all  bullion  presented  for  coinage 
(comp.  p.  xiii). 

Apart  from  those  of  Sinaloa,  Sonora,  and  Chihuahua,  nearly 
all  the  historical  mines  lie  on  the  South-Central  Plateau  at  an 
elevation  of  from  5,000  to  10,000  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
The  stories  of  the  “ lost  mines  ” ( minas  tapadas)  of  Mexico  are 
many  (comp.  p.  82),  and  some  are  highly  interesting — and 
improbable. 

A still  popular  method  of  reducing  silver  ore  is  known  as  the 
Patio  Process , invented  by  Bartolome  de  Medina,  a Spanish 
miner,  at  Pachuca  (p.  422)  in  1557.  The  system,  which  is 
economical  and  effective,  is  on  the  principle  of  amalgamating 
the  metal  with  quicksilver.  The  Lixiviation  Process,  or  that  of 
crushing  the  dry  rock  and  then  roasting  it  in  reverberatory 
furnaces,  with  salt,  is  also  in  vogue. 

For  additional  information  relating  to  mines,  the  traveller 
is  referred  to  the  Mex.  States  described  in  the  Handbook,  and 
to  the  Bibliography  on  p.  ccxxxix. 

Opal  Mines  ( minas  de  opalo)  are  usually  quite  deep.  The 
matrix  is  drilled  out  with  steel  drills  ( barrenos ),  brought  to  the 
surface  in  sacks  swung  athwart  the  backs  of  peon  laborers, 
broken  into  small  pieces  with  hammers,  and  sent  to  the  lapi- 
daries, who  polish  the  stones  on  grindstones  of  varying  de- 
grees of  fineness.  When  a rich  vein  is  found  and  opened  near 
the  surface  it  presents  an  unusually  beautiful  spectacle;  the 
rock  glistening  with  myriad  rays  of  colored  light.  The  first 
stratum,  usually  about  five  feet  thick,  is  generally  followed  by 
a layer  of  earth  of  about  the  same  thickness,  and  this  is,  in  turn, 
succeeded  by  another  bed  of  opal-bearing  rock.  This  sometimes 
continues  to  a great  depth.  The  matrix  is  so  hard  that  dynamite 
is  used  to  dislodge  it,  and  many  fine  stones  are  unavoidably 
ruined  in  the  blasting  process.  The  Queretaro  district  (p.  119) 
is  so  rich  in  opaliferous  deposits  that  traces  of  the  mineral  can 
be  seen  in  the  stone  used  roundabout  for  building  purposes. 

As  certain  of  the  varieties  of  opals  found  in  Mexico  vary  in  price  from 
five  cents  to  a thousand  pesos  each,  the  traveller  unacquainted  with  the 
“tricks  of  the  trade”  is  sometimes  easily  swindled,  and  he  is  therefore 
cautioned  against  making  expensive  purchases  of  street  venders  or 
unknown  dealers.  Mexico  City  is  the  best  market  for  fine  opals,  and  most 
of  the  good  stones  quickly  find  their  way  thither.  The  most  reputable 
dealers  sell  only  “ seasoned  ’’  stones,  i.  e.,  those  which  have  been  tested 
for  flaws,  etc.  The  oxygen  in  opals  tends  to  freeze  easily,  and  freezing 
usually  cracks  the  stones.  Unscrupulous  dealers  have  been  known  to 
immerse  cracked  stones  in  oil,  which  fills  the  crevices,  and  when  the  oil 
dries  out  the  stones  are  found  to  be  worthless.  Again,  a soft  opal  will 
scratch  easily,  and  the  surface  soon  becomes  dim  and  lifeless.  It  is  not 
unusual  for  venders  at  railway  stations  to  offer  a good-looking  stone  at  an 
attractive  price  and  substitute  a poor  one  for  it  just  as  the  train  pull3 
out.  Men  who  offer  stones  purporting  to  have  been  stolen  from  the 


XC11 


OPALS 


mines  or  from  lapidaries,  should  be  regarded  with  suspicion.  The  safest 
stones  to  buy  are  the  fire-opals,  which  have  hardness  of  6 against  5.5  of 
the  other  varieties,  and  these  should  be  bought  only  of  reputable  dealers. 

The  Opal  ( opalo ) , a birthday  (October)  stone  emblematic  of 
Hope  and  Faith,  ranking  6 in  hardness  (against  10  of  the  dia- 
mond) and  from  2 to  2.65  in  specific  gravity,  the  most  prized 
gem  of  the  ancient  Greeks  and  Romans,  is  found  in  many  parts 
of  the  world  (chiefly  in  Hungary  and  Queensland),  and  was 
accidentally  discovered  in  Mexico,  10  leagues  north-east  of 
San  Juan  del  Rio,  by  an  agricultural  laborer,  in  1835.  The  first 
mine  was  called  the  Esperanza  (hope),  and  it  was  not  sys- 
tematically worked  until  about  1870. 

Opals  are  composed  of  silica  with  from  6 to  12  per  cent  of 
water,  and  are  referred  to  by  scientists  as  “ silex  in  the  soluble 
state.”  They  occur  in  thin,  irregular  veins  of  trachytic  rock  of 
a reddish-gray  color,  and  of  a porphyritic  structure;  the  ma- 
trix is  thickly  impregnated  with  cystallizations,  and  the  vol- 
canic glass  which  clings  to  the  stone  is  usually  polished  and 
sold  as  red-opals,  or  agates.  Many  opals  are  found  in  the  clefts 
and  cavities  of  old  lava,  known  as  andesite.  It  is  supposed 
that  alkaline  waters  decomposed  this  rock,  and,  setting  free 
the  silica,  deposited  it  in  a gelatinous  condition  which  after- 
wards solidified  as  opals.  The  color  of  the  matrix  is  apt  to  vary, 
and  the  difference  in  color  usually  indicates  the  class  of  opal  it 
contains. 

The  Fire-Opal  (girasol  de  fuego),  the  finest  opal  of  com- 
merce, is  usually  taken  from  a grayish-red  matrix;  it  is  fre- 
quently called  the  “ precious  opal  ” from  the  variety  and  beauty 
of  its  coloring.  “ It  is  without  a peer;  an  exquisitely  beautiful 
stone  displaying  emerald  tints  upon  a basic  color  of  fiery  red, 
and  often  flashing  a fine  flame  from  a rich  crimson  centre.” 
The  best  specimens  are  the  most  resplendent  of  all  the  differ- 
ent kinds  of  opals,  and,  being  almost  as  hard  as  the  finest 
Hungarian  stones,  they  are  valuable  and  rare.1 

Harlequin  Opals  ( arlequines ) are  remarkable  for  an  al- 
most infinite  variety  of  colors  and  color-combinations.  They 
are  usually  distinguished  by  patches  of  brilliant  and  varie- 
gated tints  which  change  their  position  and  character  as  the 
stone  is  moved.  Some  show  large  blotches  of  color  which  shift 
with  the  moving  of  the  stone,  but  these  seldom  show  more 
than  two  colors  at  the  same  time,  one  being  more  pronounced 
than  the  other.  Usually  the,  colors  are  broken  up  into  small 
speckled  lights  which  play  as  the  stone  is  shifted.  Certain 
stones  show  a magnificent  emerald  play  with  flashes  of  carmine 
and  a dark,  violet-blue  — the  latter  considered  a rare  and  de- 
sirable color.  Others  show'  a reflection  of  emerald  and  green 
lights  combined  with  a very  fine,  dark,  ultra-marine  blue. 

1 One  of  the  finest  mines  in  Mexico,  of  these  uniquely  beautiful  stones, 
is  worked  by  the  Sonora  News  Co.,  referred  to  at  p.  241. 


OPALS— AGATES 


xciii 

These  colors  are  produced  by  structural  peculiarities,  which  in 
varying  degrees  diffract  the  light  rays  entering  the  stone  and 
give  a prismatic  play  of  colors,  and  they  are  not,  as  is  com- 
monly believed,  due  to  the  chemical  constituents.  The  colors 
are  best  brought  out  by  a black  background,  hence  dealers 
usually  show  them  upon  a black  paper.  The  brilliancy  of  the 
opaline  tints  is  heightened  by  a moderate  heat,  but  although 
opals  are  infusible  before  the  blow-pipe,  its  intense  heat  drives 
off  the  water  and  renders  them  opaque  and  colorless. 

The  beautiful  Cloudy  (or  milk  — lechoso ) Opal  — 

“ Milky  opals  that  gleam  and  shine 
Like  sullen  fires  in  a pallid  mist  ” — 

is  found  in  the  whitish  porphyries.  They  are  very  common 
in  Mexico,  and  they  are  not  so  much  sought  as  the  fire-opal. 

The  Cat’s-Eye  Opal,  which  exhibits  a chatoyant  line  over 
the  centre  of  the  dome,  similar  to  the  cat’s-eye,  and  which  is 
usually  of  a bright  green  color,  is  the  rarest  form  of  opal. 

Agates  ( agatas ) and  fossilized  wood  and  bone  are  to  be 
found  opalized,  and  are  called  “ agate-opals/’  wood-opals,  etc.1 

The  Jade  (or  Jadeite)  amulets,  masks,  beads,  labrets,  and 
similar  objects,  found  in  ancient  Indian  tombs  in  Mexico, 
make  very  desirable  and  attractive  souvenirs  for  the  lover  of 
odd  things.  Aside  from  being  genuine  relics  of  vanished  races, 
they  are  usually  very  interesting  examples  of  the  skill  of  the 
early  craftsmen.  The  Aztecs  showed  great  ability  in  boring 
cylinders  and  ornamental  objects  of  jadeite,  rock-crystal,  and 
other  hard  stones,  and  no  lapidary  of  to-day  can  do  finer  work 
than  the  lapidarios  of  old. 

Most  of  the  jadeite  ornaments  come  from  tombs  in  the 
State  of  Oaxaca,  albeit  some  have  been  found  in,  and  near, 
the  pyramids  of  San  Juan  Teotihuacan  (p.  425).  Many  of  the 
celts  — usually  bored  in  two  places  for  suspension,  as  badges 
of  authority  — are  covered  with  undecipherable  cryptographic 
inscriptions.  Among  the  many  notable  examples  of  the  con- 
summate mastery  of  the  ancient  artificers  in  this  material 
are  pieces  of  jewelry  encrusted  with  jadeite  — doubtless  used 
as  congratulatory  gifts  and  as  talismans.  Human  teeth,  un- 
doubtedly of  high  antiquity,  have  been  found  inlaid  with  pea- 
green  jadeite.  Axes,  chisel-blades  (relics  of  the  stone  age), 


1 Agate  is  a variety  of  quartz,  consisting  of  layers  of  different  colors. 
It  is  crypto-crystalline,  and  is  classed  as  a variegated  chalcedony.  The 
colors  may  be  due  to  visible  impurities,  as  in  moss  agate,  which  contains 
moss-like  deposits  of  manganese  oxide  or  other  mineral  substances. 
Agates  may  be  banded  or  irregularly  clouded.  In  banded  variety  the 
colors  are  arranged  in  parallel  lines,  usually  wavy  or  erratic.  The  banded 
agate  is  supposed  to  have  been  formed  by  the  deposit  of  silica  from 
solution  in  irregular  cavities  in  rocks,  the  colors  being  the  result  of  the 
existing  impurities.  Agates  have  commercial  value  when  they  are 
polished  and  suitable  for  ornaments  and  as  specimens  for  cabinets. 


XC1V 


JADE 


masks,  beads,  and  many  good  pieces  of  this  ancient  handiwork 
are  still  to  be  found  in  the  antique  shops  of  the  capital. 

There  is  no  mention  of  Jade  in  European  literature  before  the  discovery 
of  America  by  Columbus.  The  early  Spanish  navigators  brought  back 
specimens  of  green  stone  which  were  highly  valued  by  the  natives  of 
America,  and  which  were  worn  by  them  as  badges  of  rank,  or  as  orna- 
ments, and  as  a safeguard  against  certain  diseases.  The  natives  sup- 
posed the  stones  to  possess  occult  curative  properties  in  renal  diseases, 
and  from  this  circumstance  the  Spaniards  named  them  (the  name  first 
appears  in  the  works  of  Monardes , a physician  of  Sevilla,  in  1565) 
Piedras  de  hijada  — hypochondriac,  or  colic  stones. 

Early  Spanish  writers  on  Mexico  and  Central  America  frequently  refer 
to  a certain  green  stone  called  in  the  Aztec  tongue  chalchihuitl , or 
chalchivitl , which  they  say  was  more  highly  prized  by  the  Aztecs  and 
Mayas  than  the  emerald  itself.  Chalchivitl  is  defined  by  Molina  (Vocabu- 
lario  Mexicano , 1571)  as  signifying  esmeralda  baja,  or  an  inferior  kind  of 
emerald,  while  other  writers  call  it  madre  de  esmeralda  ; but  it  can  hardly 
be  the  emerald  proper,  as  that  was  called  by  the  Mexicans  Quetzalitzli , 
from  the  quetzal , or  bird-of-paradise  ( Trogon  resplendens) , and  itzli, 
stone  — because  of  the  similarity  of  the  stone  to  the  brilliant  metallic- 
green  plumes  (worn  by  the  Kings  of  Mexico  and  Central  America  as 
regal  insignia)  of  this  splendid  bird.  In  some  parts  of  Mexico  the  stone 
was  also  called  quetzal-chalchihuitl.  The  Chinese,  by  a curious  coinci- 
dence, no  doubt  accidental,  derive  the  name  fei-tsui  from  a kingfisher, 
the  peacock-green  plumage  of  which  they  often  use  inlaid  on  jewelry. 

Bernal  Diaz  ( Historia  de  la  Conquista)  says  that  among  the  presents 
which  Montezuma  gave  to  Cortes  for  the  King  of  Spain,  there  were  some 
jadeite  pieces.  Montezuma  said,  when  handing  them  over,  “To  this  I 
will  add  a few  chalchihuis  of  such  enormous  value  that  I would  not  con- 
sent to  give  them  to  any  one  save  to  such  a powerful  emperor  as  yours. 
Each  of  these  stones  is  worth  two  loads  of  gold.” 

Juan  de  Torquemada  {Monarchia  Indiana^  1613,  vol.  ii,  p.  521)  says 
that  “when  a great  dignitary  died  in  Mexico  his  corpse  was  richly  decor- 
ated for  burial  with  gold  and  plumes  of  feathers,  and  that  they  put  in 
his  mouth  a fine  chalchihuitl , as  a heart.  A great  law-giver  and  high 
priest  of  the  ancient  Mexicans  was  miraculously  begotten  by  a chalchihuitl 
placed  in  the  bosom  of  the  goddess  Chimalma , and  if  a similar  stone  is 
laid  upon  the  tongue  of  a deceased  person  it  will  help  the  soul  to  pass 
the  seven  ordeals  before  reaching  Quetzalcoatl  in  heaven.” 

Bernardo  de  Sahagun  ( Historia  de  Nueva  Espana,  vol.  xi,  chap,  viii) 
describes  the  chalchivitl  as  green,  not  transparent,  and  mixed  with 
white:  “They  are  much  used  by  the  chiefs,  who  wear  them  fastened  to 
their  wrists  by  cords,  as  signs  of  rank.  The  lower  orders  are  not  allowed 
to  wear  them.  The  labret,  or  chin-ornament  ( barbote ) is  set  in  gold  and 
is  fixed  in  the  beard  of  the  lower  lip,  so  that  it  appears  to  come  out  of  an 
opening  in  the  flesh.” 

The  name  jade  has  been  popularly  given  to  several  distinct  kinds  of 
ornamental  stones  of  a tough,  compact  nature,  although  it  is  scienti- 
fically restricted  to  the  minerals  nephrite  — a variety  of  amphibole, 
either  tremolite  or  actinolite  — and  to  jadeite,  including  in  the  latter 
term  chloromelanite,  a variety  of  jade  rich  in  iron,  of  dark  color  and  high 
specific  gravity,  used  for  decorative  purposes,  especially  for  jewelry. 
The  term  is  not  to  be  confounded  with  serpentine  or  jasper.  The  word 
jadeite  was  coined  by  the  eminent  French  chemist  Damour , in  1863, 
to  distinguish  from  ordinary  nephrite  a peculiar  kind  of  jade  of  granular 
texture  and  brilliant  tone  of  coloring,  which  was  found  to  be  the  material 
of  some  of  the  most  beautiful  carved  pieces  of  jade  brought  to  Paris 
after  the  sack  of  the  Chinese  Summer  Palace  of  Yuan-Mi ng-Yuan  in 
1861. 

Jadeite  is  a silicate  of  aluminum  and  sodium,  with  a hardness  of  about 
7 (or  that  of  quartz),  and  a specific  gravity  close  to  3.33:  it  almost  al- 
ways contains,  in  addition,  small  quantities  of  iron,  calcium,  and  mag- 
nesium. It  is  a member  of  the  pyroxene  group  of  minerals,  and  differs 


TURQUOIS 


xcv 


from  nephrite,  which  is  a silicate  of  calcium  and  magnesium  and  be- 
longs to  the  amphibole  group.  In  point  of  color  jadeite  shows  an  almost 
infinite  variety  of  shades  and  tints  — apple-green,  bluish-green,  greenish- 
white,  sometimes  almost  pure  white,  and  white  with  spots  of  bright 
green.  The  common  colors  are  tones  of  white  and  various  shades  of 
green.  Emerald-green  is  the  most  prized  color,  both  for  its  beauty  and 
its  rarity.  The  small  ornaments  are  usually  made  of  jadeite;  the  large 
ones,  like  axes,  masks,  etc.,  of  nephrite.  They  are  usually  of  a dull  and 
wax-like  lustre.  Some  fine  specimens  of  jadeite-encrusted  teeth  (from 
skulls  found  in  Yucatan)  may  be  seen  in  the  Peabody  Museum  at  Har- 
vard University.  The  National  Museum  of  Mexico  City  possesses  a fine 
collection. 

The  student  may  consult  Investigations  and  Studies  in  Jade,  by  Heber 
R.  Bishop  (privately  printed,  New  York,  1906),  a superb  and  beauti- 
fully illustrated  work  (in  2 vols.),  found  only  in  National  Libraries.  Also 
Prescott’s  Conquest  of  Mexico. 

Turquois  ( turquesa ),  the  teuchvitl  and  the  chivitl  of  the  an- 
cient Aztecs;  known  to  scientists  as  “ Callaite” ; the  Turkey- 
stone  of  the  16th  century  (so-called  from  its  having  reached 
Europe  from  the  East  via  Turkey) ; was  mined  in  Mexico  long 
before  the  Conquest.  The  Mexican  turquois  is  as  fine  as  the 
famed  products  of  the  Nishapur  and  the  Khorassan  mines  and 
is  celebrated  for  its  beautiful  sky-blue  color.  At  the  present 
time  the  bulk  of  the  world’s  supply  of  fine  turquois  is  drawn 
from  New  Mexico  and  Mexico.  In  Mexico  it  is  found  only  in 
compact  form  in  irregular  veins  within  a matrix.  The  latter  is 
very  attractive,  and  certain  pieces  make  inexpensive  and  de- 
sirable souvenirs.  The  mass  runs  in  blue  veins  through  the 
rocks  (usually  of  a reddish  color)  with  now  and  then  concre- 
tions called  nuggets,  which  afford  stones  of  value. 

Turquois  is  a birthday  stone  (December)  and  is  emblematic 
of  prosperity;  its  hardness  is  6,  its  specific  gravity  2,  and  it 
has  been  used  as  a gem  from  very  early  times : it  is  the  favorite 
jewel  of  many,  and  is  considered  peculiarly  suited  to  blond 
complexions.  It  is  a hydrous  phosphate  of  alumina,  the  color 
being  due  to  a small  amount  of  copper  compound,  of  which  it 
contains  (according  to  different  analyses)  from  two  to  eight 
per  cent.  The  proper  color  is  sky-blue  inclining  slightly  to 
green,  but  much  of  it  is  of  greenish  blue  and  green  tints.  The 
inferior  quality  is  of  a pale,  muddy,  yellowish  green.  The  blue 
tint  so  much  prized  is  often  readily  altered  to  green,  both  nat- 
urally by  exposure  to  the  weather,  and  artificially  by  heat; 
or,  when  worn,  by  contact  with  fatty  acids,  perspiration,  soaps, 
or  perfumes.  Ordinary  turquois  should,  therefore,  be  kept  for 
some  time  before  mounting  for  jewelry,  to  see  if  the  color  is 
permanent;  and  it  should  then  be  worn  with  care,  especially 
as  to  contact  with  soaps  and  perfumes,  the  oils  from  which 
are  very  apt  to  alter  the  color.  Intense  heat  sweats  the  water 
out  of  the  stone  and  crackles  it. 

The  green  varieties  of  turquois  resemble  jade  (p.  xciii),  but 
may  be  distinguished  quite  readily  from  it  in  several  ways:  by 
the  lack  of  toughness ; by  inferior  hardness ; by  lower  specific 


XCV1 


MALACHITE  — ONYX 


gravity  (2.6  to  2.8),  which  is  easily  determined  by  weighing 
or  by  the  Sonstadt  solution ; by  the  texture,  which  is  compact 
and  smooth,  with  no  trace  of  anything  either  fibrous  or  crys- 
talline (a  scraped  surface  having  the  perfect  smoothness  of 
soap  or  ivory  when  cut  with  a knife),  or  by  the  complete  ab- 
sence of  cleavage,  and  by  almost  uniform  opacity.  Perhaps 
the  best  turquois  mine  in  Mexico  is  the  Santa  Rosa  (p.  lxxxix). 
The  stones  are  sold  by  the  Sonora  News  Co.  (p,  241). 

Malachite  (malaquita) , a hydrous  carbonate  of  copper, 
rarely  crystallized,  but  often  fibrous  and  massive,  with  a mam- 
millary or  “ botryoidal  ” surface  with  a specific  gravity  of  3.75 
and  a hardness  of  6,  is  found  all  over  the  world,  but  rarely  in 
large  quantities.  It  is  common  in  Mexico,  and  the  tourist  will 
be  able  to  secure  handsome  specimens  made  up  into  curios. 
The  color  is  usually  a brilliant  green,  fighter  and  darker,  fre- 
quently banded  and  clouded  in  different  shades. 

Onyx  ( onice ) , a chalcedony  or  chalcedonic  quartz  consisting 
of  parallel  layers  (usually  curvilinear)  of  different  shades  of 
color,  is  mined  in  many  parts  of  Mexico:  the  most  valuable 
deposits  are  in  the  States  of  Oaxaca  and  Puebla  ; in  which 
latter  place  it  is  called  “ Puebla  marble,”  and  “ Tecali  ” — from 
the  district  whence  it  comes.  The  name  onyx  is  derived  from 
the  Greek  “finger-nail”  or  “veined  gem.”  The  Mexican  onyx 
is  actually  an  aragonite,  and  is  softer  than  the  real  onyx. 
Scientists  know  the  red  onyx  as  sardonyx , the  gray  as  chalce- 
dony, and  the  black,  green,  or  brown  as  onicolo. 

The  Mexican  onyx  is  used  extensively  in  the  jewelers’  trade ; 
in  the  manufacture  of  small  souvenirs  (usually  on  sale  in  the 
curio  stores),  and  in  the  interior  decorations  of  churches  and 
public  buildings.  As  a decorative  material  onyx  is  seen  to 
good  advantage  in  the  Palacio  de  Correos  (p.  328)  at  Mexico 
City,  and  in  the  Puebla  Cathedral , described  at  p.  512.  The 
iron  deposits  which  give  color  to  onyx  are  somewhat  affected 
by  temperature  changes.  The  variety  without  stripes  is 
harder,  but  is  not  so  handsome  as  the  striped  stone.  Some  of 
it  is  so  translucent  that  it  is  used  in  lieu  of  window  glass.  The 
Puebla  craftsmen  fashion  the  Mexican  onyx  into  many  attract- 
ive shapes  — plates,  pen-holders,  ink-wells,  fruit  pieces,  etc. 

XII.  Theatres.  Bull-Fights.  Cock-Fights.  Juego  de  Pelota. 

Museums  and  Picture  Galleries.  Churches.  Holidays. 

Theatres  ( teatros ) are  to  be  found  in  most  of  the  Mex.  cities ; 
in  the  larger  play-houses  the  performance  generally  lasts  from 
9 to  midnight.  Comedies  (comedian),  operas  (operas),  dramas 
(dramas),  and  melodramas  (melo-dramas)  are  popular;  German 
and  Italian  grand  opera  is  the  predilection  of  the  devotees  in 
the  capital.  In  certain  theatres  short  zarzuelas  (operettas, 


THEATRES  — BULL-FIGHTS  xcvii 

farces,  and  the  like)  please  the  taste  of  the  middle  classes,  and 
in  others  yet  — places  where  the  pieces  and  the  audience 
change  several  times  during  the  evening  — one  may  pay  by 
the  hour  or  by  the  tanda  — piece  or  turn.  The  theatres  of 
Mex.  City  are  not  always  crowded,  as  of  the  650,000  popula- 
tion not  more  than  one  quarter  can  be  counted  upon  to  attend 
plays. 

Tickets  are  usually  bought  at  the  ticket-office  ( despacho  de 
boletos ) in  the  lobby,  on  entering.  Branch  offices,  so  common 
and  popular  in  the  U.  S.  A.  and  elsewhere,  are  not  customary 
in  Mexico.  Prices  vary  according  to  the  funcion  or  espectd- 
culo.  Orquestra  or  pit  ( luneta  — from  luna  — moon)  seats 
range  from  50  c.  to  $4.  The  best  seats  are  in  boxes  called 
plateas  or  palcos  primer  os  (first),  which  seat  4-6  persons  and 
which  correspond,  in  location,  to  the  front  row  of  the  first 
balcony  in  American  theatres:  prices  from  $4  to  $25,  ac- 
cording to  the  quality  of  the  play.  The  2nd  ( segundo ),  3rd 
( tercero ),  and  following  tiers  of  boxes  are  palcos , the  prices  of 
which  are  lower  as  the  tiers  ascend.  Above  these  are  the  gen- 
eral seats  ( asientos  generates  or  grader ias,  25-50  c.)  and  the 
gallery  ( galeria , 15-25  c.),  usually  crowded  with  the  lower  class 
population.  In  certain  theatres  there  are  several  rows  of  seats 
behind  the  pit  seats,  called  asientos  de  anfiteatro.  Season 
tickets  ( boletos  para  la  temporada ) are  sold  at  a reduction  of 
from  15  to  25  per  cent. 

Moving  Picture  Theatres  ( cines ) are  becoming  increasingly 
popular  and  are  displacing  many  of  the  old  tedtros.  See  Places 
of  Amusement,  p.  244*7. 

The  National  Theatre,  at  Mexico  City  (p.  326c)  is  one  of  the 
finest  opera  houses  in  America. 

Bull-Fights.  The  Gran  Plaza  de  Toros  in  the  Colonia  de 
Condesa,  Mexico  City  (p.  371),  occupies  a space  of  18,500  sq. 
meters,  has  a ring  diameter  of  450  ft.  and  a seating  capacity  of 
20,000  persons  — 6,989  more  than  the  largest  bull-circus  at 
; Madrid.  Until  the  construction  of  this  plaza  (in  1907),  that  of 
Valencia  (with  a seating  capacity  of  16,851  spectators)  and 
; of  Murcia  (with  space  for  17,500)  were  considered  the  largest 
structures  devoted  solely  to  bull-baiting.  The  Mexican  Plaza 
de  Toros  cost  $700,000,  and  was  the  first  to  be  made  of  struc- 
tural steel.  The empresa  (management)  enjoys  the  sole  right  to 
erect  bull-rings  in  the  Federal  District,  and  for  this  privilege 
the  Government  receives  15%  of  the  total  gate  receipts  — 
which  on  a good  day  may  reach  $30,000  or  $40,000.  Within 
the  enclosure  are  a chapel,  an  infirmary,  a toril  (where  the  bulls 
are  kept),  and  many  minor  departments.  The  building  may 
be  inspected  on  “off  days”  by  applying  to  the  city  ticket- 
office.  A small  fee  should  be  given  the  care-taker. 

The  Bull-Ring  is  of  the  shape  its  name  indicates ; a huge 
amphitheatre,  consisting  of  an  arena  ( redondel ) from  which 


BULL-FIGHTS 


xcviii 

rise  tier  after  tier  of  seats.  These  are  separated  from  the  ring 
by  a barrier  ( barrera ) about  5 ft.  high,  usually  of  wood,  behind 
which  rims  a narrow  passage  and  a cordrabarrera , which  in 
turn  is  flanked  by  one  or  more  other  passages.  The  toreros 
spring  from  the  arena  into  this  first  passage  when  too  hotly 
pursued  by  the  bull,  which  either  vents  its  rage  on  the  wooden 
barrier,  or,  if  it  is  sufficiently  agile,  leaps  it  and  pursues  its 
tormentor  around  the  enclosure.  The  lower  row  of  seats  — 
those  nearest  the  passageway  — are  called  Asientos  de  Bar- 
rera and  de  Contrabarrera.  Rising  from  these  are  ten  or  twelve 
rows  called  tendidos.  Above  these,  again,  are  the  gradas, 
which  are  under  cover  of  the  first  floor,  and  are  divided  into 
delanteras  (front  seats)  and  asientos  de  grada.  Above  the 
gradas,  in  the  upper  story,  are  the  palcos  (boxes)  and  the  an - 
danadas.  As  the  crowd  on  the  lower  seats  is  apt  to  be  boister- 
ous, it  is  advisable,  when  there  are  ladies  in  the  party,  to  sit 
either  in  a palco  or  in  the  delantera  de  grada,  as  exit  is  then 
possible  at  any  moment  without  attracting  attention. 

As  the  fights  take  place  in  the  afternoon,  when  the  sun  is  de- 
clining, one  hah  the  plaza  is  in  shade,  the  other  exposed  to  the 
sun’s  glare.  The  best  reserved  seats  ( localidades  de  preferencia) 
are  on  the  shady  side,  and  besides  being  numbered  they  are  the 
most  expensive.  Following  these  are  the  regular  shaded  seats 
(localidades  de  sombra) ; visitors  should  be  careful  to  ask  for 
a boletin  de  sombra  — ticket  in  the  shade : the  usual  price 
is  from  three  to  five  pesos,  while  a boletin  de  sol  (in  the  sun) 
costs  from  one  to  two  pesos.  The  lower  classes  frequent  the 
sol  or  sunny  side,  and  ladies  should  never  be  taken  there.  The 
different  seats  and  their  prices  are  detailed  in  the  bills  of  the 
play,  with  the  names  of  the  combatants,  and  the  pedigrees  and 
colors  of  the  bulls. 

The  aficionados  prefer  the  tendidos  (pit)  and  the  lower  range, 
in  order,  by  being  nearer,  that  they  may  not  lose  the  nice 
traits  of  tauromaquia.  To  catch  a torero's  hat  or  cloak  tossed 
up  from  the  ring  is  an  honor  greatly  prized  by  them.  To  be 
near  the  barrera , and  thus  be  able  to  impart  an  impressive 
thwack  to  the  bull  should  he  leap  the  barrier  and  course 
through  the  passageway,  delights  the  lover  of  the  sport  almost 
as  much  as  to  be  near  enough  to  pelt  an  inept  or  clumsy  tore- 
ador with  oranges  or  whatnot. 

The  best  fights  ( corridas  formates)  are  held  in  the  winter 
season,  between  Nov.  and  March.  The  novilladas  (lesser 
fights)  between  April  and  Sept.  — the  off  season.  The  latter 
are  sometimes  referred  to  as  Corridas  Econc>micas  : the  en- 
trance fees  range  from  one  to  two  pesos , and  the  bulls  are  not 
always  of  the  best  class.  Consult  the  daily  newspapers. 

The  Fights  are  held  under  the  superintendence  of  a muni- 
cipal official  called  “ presidente,”  who  gives  the  signal  to  start. 
When  he  takes  his  seat  in  the  central  box,  the  band  plays  and 


BULL-FIGHTS 


XC1X 


all  the  glittering  procession  of  fighters  pass  in  review  before 
him.  The  entry  is  unique,  marked  by  a diversity  of  colors 
which  are  very  attractive. 

The  proceedings  open  with  the  appearance  of  two  alguaciles 
(police-officers  of  the  ring),  who  emerge  from  the  gate  beneath 
the  presidencia  (starter’s  box) . “ They  are  excellently  mounted 
on  prancing  steeds  in  sleek  condition,  and  are  dressed  in  black 
velvet  breeches,  with  a short  cloak  of  the  same  material,  and 
black  hats  with  variegated  plumes.  Cantering  around  either 
semicircle  of  the  ring,  they  meet  at  its  further  side  and,  dash- 
ing spurs  into  their  horses,  gallop  back  together,  salute  the 
president  (of  the  ring),  hat  in  hand,  and  disappear  within  the 
archway.  A minute  later  they  again  emerge  by  the  opposite 
entrance;  the  band,  perched  aloft  among  the  andanadas , 
strikes  up  a stirring  paso-doble,  and  now  begins  the  pretty  and 
imposing  spectacle  known  as  the  paseo  de  las  cuadrillas,  or 
march-out  of  the  fighters.  The  strictest  etiquette  is  observed. 
Foremost  are  the  alguaciles  on  their  capering  stallions,  the 
plumes  in  the  hats  nodding  in  time  to  the  hoofs.  Close  behind 
come  the  three  matador es  ( espadas)f  striding  abreast,  their 
trajes  de  luces  flashing  splendidly.  By  a usage  which  is  never 
transgressed,  the  oldest  to  have  taken  the  alternativa,  or  doc- 
tor’s degree,  so  to  speak,  of  bull-fighting,  goes  always  on  the 
left;  the  next  oldest  on  the  right;  the  latest  in  the  middle. 
Their  glittering  capotes  de  paseo  rest  upon  their  left  shoulder, 
but  the  body  of  the  cloak,  passed  round  the  waist  from  right 
to  left,  is  caught  up  and  held  with  the  left  hand  over  the  left 
hip,  leaving  the  right  arm  free. 

“ After  the  matadores  come  their  banderilleros  ; then  the 
mounted  picador  es.  Needless  to  say,  their  garb  is  infinitely 
plainer  than  that  of  the  matadores , consisting  of  the  familiar 
broad-brimmed  picador's  hat  with  its  pompon ; the  short  jacket 
of  colored  velvet  and  black  braid ; the  light  yellow  leather 
breeches  opening  over  the  boot;  the  faja,  or  scarf  about  the 
waist,  narrow  cravat,  frilled  shirt  front,  and  low  waistcoat. 
Then  follow  the  ring  attendants,  vulgarly  known  as  monos 
sabios  (wise  monkeys),  who  attend  upon  the  horses,  stanch 
the  holes  gored  in  them  with  pellets  of  tow,  and  thwack  them 
to  their  feet  when  wounded;  and  lastly  the  arrastres , or  teams 
of  mules  to  drag  away  the  fallen  beasts,  both  equine  and 
bovine. 

“ Arriving  at  a dignified,  swinging  stride  beneath  the  presi- 
dential box,  all  the  fighters  lift  their  monteras  in  honor  of  the 
president,  who  acknowledges  the  courtesy  by  lifting  his  hat; 
and  the  procession  breaks  away.  The  alguaciles  and  the  teams 
of  mules  gallop  away  out  of  the  ring,  and  out  of  sight;  so  do 
the  picadores,  excepting  two,  who  grasp  their  garrochas  (iron- 
tipped  pikes)  and  station  themselves  a few  yards  apart,  the 
first  being  some  twenty  yards  to  the  left  of  the  toril.  They  are 


c 


BULL-FIGHTS 


then  said  to  be  de  tanda  ; while  those  who  await  their  turn  out- 
side the  ring  are  de  reserva.  The  toreros  throw  their  costly 
capotes  de  paseo  (promenade  capes)  to  their  friends  among  the 
spectators,  to  fold  and  keep  for  them,  and  take  instead,  mata- 
dores  and  banderiUeros  alike,  the  well-worn  capas  of  red  and 
yellow  percal,  faded,  as  a rule,  by  long  exposure  to  the  sun, 
and  smeared  with  ominous  stains,  mementoes  of  other  corri- 
das, that  are  patently  other  than  vegetable  dyes.  The  poor, 
trusting  horses  twitch  their  ears  in  blest  unconsciousness  of 
their  inevitable  doom.  The  ponderous  picador's  saddles,  with 
huge  bucket  stirrups,  bring  their  wasted  rumps  and  withers 
into  more  prominent  contrast.”  Diseased,  emaciated,  worn 
out  with  age  and  over-work,  they  are  pitiable  specimens,  in- 
dubitably deserving  of  a better  fate. 

The  fight  (< lidia ) is  a “tragedy  in  three  acts,  lasts  about 
twenty  minutes,  and  each  consists  of  precisely  the  same  rou- 
tine. From  six  to  eight  bulls  are  usually  killed  during  each 
‘funcion  ’ of  las  corridas  formates  (standard  fights) ; occasion- 
ally another  — toro  de  Gracia  — is  conceded  to  popular  clam- 
or, which  here  will  take  no  denial.” 

“When  all  are  ready”  (says  Mr.  Leonard  Williams,  Land 
of  the  Dons),  “ picador es,  matadores,  and  peones,  the  president 
waves  his  handkerchief.  A drum  and  trumpet  sound  the 
appointed  call  which  summons  the  egress  of  the  bull,  and  one 
of  the  alguaciles,  reemerging,  catches  in  his  hat  the  key  of  the 
toril,  which  the  president  also  tosses  down,  decked  with  rib- 
bons. A veteran  functionary,  the  buholero,  scours  across  the 
arena  to  the  alguaciVs  horse,  catches  the  key  in  his  montera, 
and  while  the  other  escapes,  moves  away  to  the  toril,  where 
are  the  genuine  heroes  of  the  hour — the  bulls.  He  inserts 
the  key,  opens  the  door,  and  retires  within  the  space  between 
the  barriers.  The  passageway  is  narrow  and  as  the  bull  rushes 
through  it,  an  attendant  leans  over  and  plants  between  his 
shoulders  a small  keen  puntilla  (a  thin  dagger)  from  which 
flutter  colored  ribbons.” 

The  public  curiosity  to  see  the  first  rush  out  is  intense. 
“ With  a fiery  snort  of  rage  — if  you  are  close  enough  you  can 
see  him  blow  quite  a little  cloud  of  sand  into  the  air  — the 
bull  is  in  the  ring,  swirls  round,  sights  or  smells  the  two  pica- 
dor es  de  tanda  ; feints  at  them  one  after  the  other,  as  they 
lower  their  garrochas  in  self-defence;  and  has  put  the  whole 
arena  behind  him  in  about  six  seconds.  Everything  in  the 
semblance  of  a fighter,  except,  of  course,  the  picadores,  has 
lightly  vaulted  the  barrera,  and  is  safe  in  the  callejon,  or  space, 
some  seven  feet  wide,  between  the  barriers.  No!  The  rrmta- 
dor,  cloak  in  hand,  leaps  back  again,  advances  from  the  bar- 
rier, and  calls  to  the  toro  with  a quick  little  cry,  ‘ / Hoi, 
Hoi  ! * He  darts  round  angrily,  pulls  up  deadband  surveys  his 
enemy,  some  twenty  feet  away,  who  holds  his  capote  in  both 


BULL-FIGHTS 


ci 


hands,  directly  in  front  of  his  body.  To  snort  and  charge  at 
the  cloak  and  the  man  is  the  work  of  a swifter  second  than 
was  ever  told  by  clock.  Where  is  the  bold  torero  ? in  pieces  ! 
Not  he.  Without  moving  his  feet  so  much  as  the  literal 
breadth  of  a hair,  he  swings  his  cloak  out  to  the  right  with 
both  arms,  and  the  deadly  weapons  that  would  transfix  a 
three-inch  oaken  plank  have  grazed  the  golden  bobbins  on  his 
jacket,  and  the  danger  is  thirty  feet  away.  The  bull,  as  soon  as 
the  violence  of  his  onrush  allows  him,  pulls  up,  turns,  and  re- 
peats the  charge,  to  pass  again  beneath  the  enemy’s  arm ; and 
again,  and  again,  till  the  eye  turns  giddy  at  the  lightning-like 
manoeuvre ; and  at  every  turn  %the  valiant  fighter  makes  that 
indescribable,  graceful  bend  of  his  lithe  body,  and  swings  out 
his  capa  with  unerring  art.  The  masterpiece  is  yet  to  come. 
On  the  bull’s  charging  for  the  seventh  time,  the  torero  gives  an 
abrupt  half-turn,  trails  his  cloak  over  his  shoulder,  and  walks 
deliberately  away,  the  toro  staring  stupidly  after  him,  without 
attempting  to  follow.  The  victory  of  man  over  brute  intel- 
ligence is  triumphantly  declared,  amid  a rapid  tempest  of  ap- 
plause, just  like  the  rattle  of  shingle  on  a stormy  beach.  The 
hero  of  the  ovation,  with  a modest  wTave  of  his  hand,  presses 
his  montera  to  his  head,  and  seeks  new  worlds  to  conquer. 

“ The  ice  is  broken.  The  toro , snorting  and  pawing  the  sand, 
is  spoiling  for  another  duel.  Nor  has  he  long  to  wait.  The 
picadores , while  the  preceding  incident  was  in  progress,  have 
cantered  round  the  barrera , and  pull  up  almost  facing  him. 
One  of  them  is  ordered  to  picar  ; and  the  man,  arranging  the 
bandage  over  the  right  eye  of  his  nag,  sets  spurs  to  the  already 
half-frightened  beast,  and  resolutely  advances,  followed  by 
the  impatient  exhortations  of  the  multitude,  who  gibe  and 
jeer  without  stint,  if  they  suspect  him  to  be  funking.  ‘ ; Saca 
mas  vara  y anda  derecho  ! 7 (Lengthen  your  lance  and  at  him  !) 
they  yell. 

“ The  bull,  three  yards  or  so  away,  sniffs,  drops  his  head, 
and  — half  a yard  of  horn  is  in  the  horse’s  chest ; both  animal 
and  rider  rolling  over  and  over,  the  man,  as  safety  obviously 
demands,  keeping  to  the  side  nearer  the  barrera  ; the  horse, 
bleeding  profusely  from  a ghastly  hole,  and  struggling  des- 
perately to  rise  to  his  feet,  between  him  and  the  bull.  The 
bandage  has  fallen  off,  and  the  penco’s  eyes  are  wild  and  terror- 
stricken.  But  there  is  life  and  utility  in  him  yet,  and  while  an 
espada  performs  the  ‘quite,7  which  consists  in  drawing  off  the 
res  with  a graceful  turn  of  his  capa , the  ‘wise  monkeys’  rush 
valiantly  out  from  the  barrier,  and  flog  him,  trembling  in  every 
limb,  to  his  feet.  The  rider  curses  him,  prods  him  angrily  with 
the  garrocha,  and  remounts.  Again  the  bull  is  ready,  as  are 
the  horse  and  rider.  At  the  second  pica  the  heart  is  touched  — 
the  horse’s,  I mean,  not  the  spectators’.  The  victim,  as  soon  as 
the  shock  is  over,  and  the  bull  is  again  drawn  off,  does  not  fall, 


BULL-FIGHTS 


cii 

but  the  'picador,  who  ought  to  know  what  is  taking  place,  dis- 
mounts. He,  at  least,  has  felt  the  death-stroke  of  the  beast; 
and  sure  enough,  from  close  behind  the  top  of  the  fore  leg  the 
bright  arterial  blood  begins  to  issue;  at  first  in  little  jets,  then 
spouting  with  the  volume  of  a hose.  The  stricken  animal  rocks 
dully  to  and  fro,  and  falls  prone,  twitching  his  ears  and  mov- 
ing his  under  lip  convulsively.  A mono  sabio  relieves  him  in  a 
leisurely  manner  of  saddle  and  bridle,  plants  his  foot  upon  his 
head,  and  taking  out  a small  puntilla  from  his  shirt,  drives  it 
smartly  into  the  base  of  the  brain  and  shakes  it  to  and  fro.  A 
desperate  kick  or  two ; the  eyes  grow  dim ; the  lip  drops,  dis- 
closing the  grinning  teeth;  and  all  is  over.  The  mono  sabio 
extracts  the  puntilla,  wipes  it  on  the  poor  jamelgo’s  hide,  and 
attaching  the  halter,  prepares  his  neck  for  the  arrastre.  Vae 
victis  ! The  first  of  the  morituri  has  fallen,  and  the  populace, 
intoxicated  with  carnage,  are  roaring  for  fresh  bloodshed. 

“The  picador,  hampered  by  the  gregoriana  which  covers  his 
right  leg,  has  limped  off  for  a remount,  and  while  a reserva 
emerges,  number  one  supplies  his  place.  This  time  the  suerte 
proves  more  gory  still.  The  toro,  the  blood  from  the  previous 
picas  trickling  from  his  neck,  and  staining  the  fluttering  divisa 
to  a uniform  maroon,  is  warming  to  his  work.  He  dives  at  the 
belly  of  his  prey  and  tears  it  open  through  a quarter  of  its 
length.  The  guts,  dripping  with  blood  and  excrement,  fall  out 
and  about  the  sand,  and  their  reeling  owner  stamps  upon 
them  wdldly.  A man  in  front  of  me  points  pleasantly  to  the 
shining,  bleeding  entrails.  ‘Todos  los  trastos  de  lacocina ’ (All 
the  pots  and  pans  of  the  kitchen) , he  remarks ; the  neighbors 
join  in  his  laughter,  and  the  joke  passes  for  a good  one. 

“A  new  relay  of  cavalry  arrives,  and  the  toro  is  still  game. 
But  the  picador  is  strong  of  wrist,  and  leaves  him  heavily 
castigado,  driving  the  garrocha  pitilessly  into  his  shoulder,  and 
holding  it  there  "while  men  might  count  a score.  The  horse 
is  untouched,  but  the  bull,  by  the  time  the  matador  practises 
the  quite  on  him,  is  bleeding  hard.  1 Buena  vara ,’  shout  the 
enraptured  onlookers,  and  the  picador,  one  of  a class  that  earns 
more  tumbles  than  pesos,  touches  his  castor eho,  and  rides  off, 
grinning. 

“The  president  makes  the  appointed  signal,  the  cornel 
sounds  for  the  suerte  de  banderillas,  and  the  cavalry  retire 
The  two  banderilleros  hand  their  capotes  over  the  barrier  anc 
grasp  the  banderillas,  a pair  apiece.  These  are  of  ash,  rathei 
over  two  feet  in  length,  about  tw^o  thirds  of  wThich  is  decorated 
with  colored  paper,  cut  in  narrow  strips.  At  the  tip  is  a solid 
barb.  The  banderillero,  then,  whose  turn  it  is,  moves  off  to  meet 
the  res,  and  finds  him  standing  motionless  near  the  tablas, 
forming  an  angle  with  them.  Standing  some  six  yards  away, 
and  fully  facing  him,  the  banderillero  calls  to  the  toro,  alter- 
nately lifting  the  polos  to  arms’  length,  and  lowering  them, 


BULL-FIGHTS 


ciii 

and  rising  lightly  on  his  toes.  He  is  now  said  to  be  alegrando 
or  ‘ cheering ’ the  bull.  Finally,  when  the  latter’s  attention  is 
sufficiently  fixed,  he  swoops  upon  him,  and  describing  a part 
of  a circle  in  order  to  keep  clear  of  the  horns,  lifts  his  arms,  and 
keeping  both  hands  close  together,  metiendo  los  brazos,  drives 
the  barbed  sticks  into  the  tor  o' s neck.  Our  hero  has  clavado 
un  buen  par  in  the  manner  which  is  known  as  al  sesgo,  and  the 
feat  is  greeted  with  a roar  of  applause.  The  two  barbs  are 
planted  close  together,  and  exactly  as  the  art  demands,  di- 
rectly behind  the  head,  neither  too  far  forward  nor  too  far 
back;  and  the  banderillas , as  the  toro  bellows  and  paws  the 
ground  at  the  receipt  of  this  additional  courtesy,  fall  grace- 
fully aslant  on  either  side  of  his  face. 

“The  collocation  of  the  second  pair,  a task  pertaining  to 
banderillero  number  two,  is  a longer  affair.  The  toro  is  pre- 
pared for  anything  and  everything,  and  as  crafty  as  a Jew. 
His  adversary,  attempting  the  same  device  as  his  predecessor, 
halloes  to  him  and  springs  as  high  as  heaven,  then  shifts  his 
ground  and  repeats  the  experiment.  At  length,  when  the  pro- 
ceedings have  lasted  rather  longer  than  is  opportune,  and  the 
spectators  are  revealing  unmistakable  signs  of  boredom,  he 
resorts  to  treachery.  For  this  purpose  he  sidles  behind  his 
quarry,  and  making  ready  the  polos  and  giving  an  abrupt  cry, 
brings  the  enemy  swinging  round  upon  him,  and  driving  in 
the  banderillas,  darts  nimbly  away  upon  the  other  side  of  the 
toro's  head.  This  is  de  media  vuelta  — half  a turn;  and  being 
executed  como  Dios  manda  (as  God  commands),  is  met  with 
renewed  applause.  Banderillero  number  one  drives  in  a third 
pair,  de  f rente,  a trifle  abierto,  that  is,  with  more  space  between 
the  palos  than  should  be,  and  therefore  not  so  unimpeachably 
artistic  as  the  others,  and  the  toro,  with  the  six,  gay-colored, 
blood-bespotted  harpoons  dangling  from  his  withers,  is  ready 
for  the  supreme  suerte  and  dissolution. 

“The  cornet  sounds  again,  and  the  matador,  who  for  some 
little  while  has  been  resting  by  the  barrier,  advances,  estoque 
and  muleta  in  hand,  to  just  beneath  the  presidential  box.  The 
president  raises  his  hat,  the  matador  his,  and  holding  both 
sword  and  engano  in  his  left  hand,  and  emphasizing  every 
period  with  a flourish  of  the  montera,  delivers  his  brindis,  or 
matadorial  speech.  The  oration,  fortunately  for  the  impatient 
multitude,  is  not  a long  one ; in  fact,  a dozen  seconds  will  have 
covered  it  all,  when  the  matador,  swinging  his  montera  jauntily 
round  him  and  up  into  the  tendidos,  turns  on  his  heel  and 
strides  majestically  forward  to  complete  the  doom  of  the 
toro. 

“The  executioner’s  first  step  is  to  wave  off  all  his  men 
1 ifuera  gente!’  an  action  that  is  always  popular  as  signify- 
ing pluck,  and  professional  pundonor.  Then,  liando  el  trapo, 
namely,  adjusting  the  scarlet  muleta  to  a small  stick,  from 


CIV 


BULL-FIGHTS 


the  end  of  which  a spike  projects  and  secures  the  cloth,  he  ad- 
vances to  within  three  yards  of  his  opponent  and  sidles  wearily 
round  him,  gradually  describing  almost  the  complete  circum- 
ference of  a circle,  and  keenly  scrutinizing  his  every  move- 
ment. In  these  moments  you  may  be  sure  he  is  deciding  on 
the  nature  and  even  the  number  of  the  pases  de  muleta  he 
means  to  employ.  When  his  mind  is  made  up  and  the  bull  has 
been  suitably  circumnavigated,  the  matador  thrusts  out  the 
engano  on  his  left,  holding  it  in  his  left  hand  and  almost  brush- 
ing it  against  his  victim’s  nose.  He  is  now  said  to  be  empa- 
pando,  or  smothering  the  bull’s  face  with  the  red  cloth.  The 
toro,  dropping  his  head,  charges  the  muleta.  To  all  appear- 
ances he  is  oblivious  of  the  man,  who,  without  moving  his  feet, 
raises  the  cloth,  and  sweeps  it  backward,  followed  by  the  bull, 
both  bicko  and  trapo  describing  with  infinite  swiftness  a small 
portion  of  a circle.  This  manoeuvre  is  the  pase  natural,  and 
the  matador,  always  with  the  same  sure-footedness  and  calm, 
repeats  it  no  less  than  seven  times.  The  vigilant,  reflexive 
dexterity  of  the  human,  as  opposed  to  the  blind,  impetuous 
savagery  of  the  brute,  seems  to  have  left  the  latter  completely 
stunned  and  silly;  but  any  aficionado  will  tell  you  that  the 
toro  carries  his  head  too  low ; so  the  diestro  gives  him  a couple 
of  ‘pases  por  alto,’  lifting  the  muleta  at  each  sweep  over  and 
across  the  horns,  and  when  he  finds  him  to  be  sufficiently 
cuadrado,  with  fore  and  hind  legs  properly  set  together,  and 
head  at  the  desired  elevation,  prepares  for  the  volapie.  Lifting 
in  his  right  hand  the  gleaming  estoque  to  the  level  of  his  shoul- 
der, and  aiming,  by  running  his  eye  along  the  blade,  for  all  the 
world  as  though  he  were  sighting  a rifle,  at  the  scientific  point 
on  the  top  of  the  bull’s  neck,  with  his  left  hand  he  extends  the 
muleta  beyond  his  right  side,  under  his  sword  arm,  and  perfi - 
landose  with  his  body,  that  is,  planting  himself  sideways  in  the 
same  line  with  the  bull’s  length,  delivers  the  thrust  at  the 
same  juncture  that  he  darts  forward,  smothering  as  he  does 
so,  the  toro’s  face  with  the  muleta,  and  giving  the  animal  the 
scilida  on  his  right,  at  the  identical  instant  that  he  himself  es- 
capes on  his  left.  The  estocada,  in  the  hands  of  so  consummate 
a classic,  is  naturally  perfection’s  self,  and  the  only  visible 
vestige  of  the  weapon  is  the  cruz,  or  hilt,  peeping  from  the 
flesh,  deluged  with  welling  crimson,  of  the ’victim.  Yet  even 
thus  it  is  a matter  of  a good  many  moments  before  the  van- 
quished falls  to  earth  — se  echa.  First  of  all  the  peones  dash 
forward,  and  throwing  out  their  capotes,  whirl  him  alternately 
to  right  and  left,  but  this  is  resented  by  the  spectators  as  a 
violation  of  fair  play,  and  the  matador  again  steps  forth  to  exe- 
cute the  descabello.  Newly  confronting  his  foe,  he  dazes  him 
by  a number  of  short  pases  known  as  de  piton  a piton,  and 
carefully  taking  aim,  almost  by  feeling  with  the  point  of  the 
estoque  for  the  spot  desired,  namely,  the  base  of  the  brain, 


BULL-FIGHTS 


cv 


delivers  one  vicious  little  dig,  and  over  rolls  the  valorous  but 
unfortunate  cornupeto.  The  indispensable  ‘wise  monkeys' 
harness  his  stiffening  remains  for  the  arrastre,  the  banderillcis 
are  dragged  out,  likewise  the  estoque,  the  peones  withdraw  to  the 
estribo,  and  the  incomparable  matador , after  repeating,  this 
time  without  rhetoric,  his  salute  to  the  president,  moves  tri- 
umphantly round  the  ring  to  the  inspiriting  strains  of  a popu- 
lar tango , and  the  frenzied  acclamations  of  his  worshippers. 
Quite  a warehouse  of  hats  is  thrown  down  to  him,  and  cigars 
galore.  The  latter  he  disdains  to  grope  for,  leaving  them  to  an 
attendant  peon  ; but  he  gathers  up  the  headgear,  sends  it  with 
his  own  hand  spinning  back  to  the  proprietor,  and  even  takes' 
a quarter  of  a mouthful  from  a bota,  obsequiously  lowered 
from  a tendido.  For  the  time  being  he  is  the  most  conspicuous 
and  the  most  applauded  man  in  the  Republica. 

“The  general  outline  of  the  programme  does  not  vary.  Each 
bull  is  first  of  all  attacked  and  weakened  by  the  picadores,  then 
he  passes  on  to  the  banderilleros,  and  finally  to  the  espada.  Of 
course  the  incidents  and  details  vary.  If,  during  a suerte  de 
vara , the  picador , through  carelessness  or  funk,  or  want  of 
skill,  leaves  his  garrocha  sticking  in  the  bull’s  neck,  while 
the  brute  is  being  enticed  sufficiently  near  to  the  barrier  to  lug 
away  the  projecting  shaft,  the  publico  riddle  the  cowering  mis- 
demeanant with  volley  upon  volley  of  oaths  and  ribald  epi- 
thets. Horses,  fewer  or  more  as  the  case  may  be,  will  fall  and 
be  thwacked  again  to  their  feet  by  the  assiduous  peones , and 
gored  in  every  possible  manner,  until  they  are  ripped  to  shreds 
and  little  of  their  flesh  and  nothing  of  their  life  remains  to 
them ; and  then  the  teams  of  the  arrastre , to  the  music  of  their 
merry  bells,  will  drag  them  away  and  out  of  sight;  and  upon 
the  morrow,  says  your  neighbor  facetiously,  the  price  of 
chorizos  (sausages)  will  be  cheaper.” 

The  course  of  the  corrida  includes  manoeuvres  so  many,  and 
so  variously  executed,  that  to  attempt  to  describe  them  all 
’would  be  inevitably  to  bewilder.  Toreros  are  not  unfrequently 
gored,  and  the  terrible  cornadas  the  fighters  get  from  bulls  in 
the  Mexico  City  Ring  prove  that  suertes  not  down  on  the  bill 
may  be  expected  at  any  exhibition.  More  than  one  interna- 
tionally celebrated  matador  has  met  death  in  Mexico.  An- 
tonio Montes  is  a case  in  point. 

History.  The  Bull-Fight  ( corrida  de  toros ) was  instituted  by  the 
Moors  in  Spain  (about  the  12th  century)  for  the  encouragement  of  pro- 
ficiency in  the  use  of  martial  weapons  and  for  the  celebration  of  festal 
occasions;  they  were  first  known  (to  the  Spaniards)  as  Fiestas  de  Toros 
— bull-feasts.  In  the  early  bull-fights  (which  were  prerogatives  of  the 
aristocracy  down  to  the  16th  cent.)  the  animal  was  attacked  by  a gentle- 
man armed  only  with  the  Rejon—  a short  projectile  spear  or  lance 
about  four  feet  long.  This  original  form  of  bull-fight  (now  only  given 
on  grand  occasions,  in  Spain)  is  called  a Fiesta  Real  — Royal  feast.  For- 
merly they  were  a part  of  the  coronation  ceremonial. 

The  Cid  Campeador  was  perhaps  the  first  cavalier  to  descend  with 


cvi 


BULL-FIGHTS 


the  lance  into  the  arena  and  kill,  on  horseback,  the  formidable  animal. 
The  Moors,  who  invented  the  suerte  de  banderillas,  killed  the  bull  on  foot 
in  a form  widely  different  from  that  of  the  present  day.  They  carried 
a cloak  over  the  left  arm,  and  used  but  one  weapon  at  a time,  which  they 
threw,  not  planted.  This  was  a small  barb,  or  dart,  called  an  azagaya, 
— javelin.  Later,  it  came  to  be  known  as  a rehilete,or  arpon  (harpoon), 
and  is  now  the  banderilla. 

In  the  early  years  of  the  sport  accidents  were  very  frequent.  History 
narrates  that  no  less  than  ten  knights  lost  their  lives  at  a single  Fiesta 
de  Toros  (in  Spain)  in  1512.  During  the  Middle  Ages  kings  went  into  the 
arena,  and  the  spectacle  was  the  favorite  one  of  the  courts,  both  among 
the  Spaniards  and  the  Arabs,  who  vied  with  one  another  in  the  bull- 
arena  as  they  would  on  the  field  of  battle. 

By  the  15th  cent,  the  art  of  bull-fighting  had  become  essential  to  every 
,< Caballero . The  sport  continued  to  make  steady  progress,  though  Isabella 
the  Catholic  Queen  was  violent^  opposed  to  it,  and  Pope  Pius  the  Fifth 
(in  a Papal  Bull  of  November  20,  1567)  “threatened  to  excommuni- 
cate all  princes  who  suffered  its  exercise  within  their  dominions,  and 
forbade  Christian  burial  to  bull-fighters  who  met  their  death  within  the 
arena.” 

Early  in  the  18th  cent,  the  sport  passed  from  the  hands  of  the  aristo- 
crats into  those  of  professionals  (toreros').  It  was  soon  stripped  of  its  chiv- 
alrous character,  and  it  degenerated  into  the  repulsive  butchery  of  to- 
day. Professional  toreros  obtained  a definite  standing  coincident  with  the 
construction  (1743)  of  the  first  Plaza  de  Toros  in  Madrid.  From  that  date 
the  corrida  became  a public  spectacle. 

“The  modem  bull-fight,  more  or  less  as  now  practised,  is  accredited 
to  the  little  city  of  Ronda,  high  poised  among  the  mountains  of  Anda- 
lusia. Here  was  born,  in  or  about  the  year  1700,  Francisco  Romero, 
the  first  great  exponent  of  the  modern  toreo.  He  invented  and  prac- 
tised the  suerte  de  muleta.  and  first  used  the  little  red  flag  one  sees  in 
the  hands  of  the  modern  matador.  He  met  the  bull,  we  are  told,  face  to 
face  as  it  charged,  after  playing  it  into  position  with  the  muleta,  and 
killed  it  with  a single  thrust  of  his  sword,  a pie  quieto  (without  moving 
a foot). 

“ Seville,  the  home  of  ninety  per  cent  of  all  the  Spanish  bull-fighters, 
soon  became  a sturdy  rival  of  the  Ronda  school.  The  two  were  entirely 
distinct.  The  keynote  of  the  Sevillians  was  arrojo  — daring;  of  th eRonde- 
fios  serenidad  — coolness.  The  former  fought  a pie  movido,  shifting  their 
feet ; the  latter  a pie  quieto  — keeping  them  still.  This  latter  method 
was  undoubtedly  the  more  complete  and  meritorious.  It  demanded  an 
equal  degree  of  nerve,  and  an  infinitely  greater  study  of  the  bull.  Where 
the  Sevillians  risked,  the  Rondeilos  calculated.  These  latter  were  artists 
who  made  it  their  boast  to  despatch  their  bulls  with  elegance  and  neat- 
ness, not  to  jeopardize  their  lives  in  break-neck  exploits.  The  Sevillians, 
on  the  contrary,  aimed  at  keeping  the  spectators  in  a fever  by  the  extra- 
vagance and  even  folly  of  their  tricks,  executing  suertes  nowadays  never 
heard  of.  The  salto  del  trascuerno,  or  leap  across  the  bull's  head,  was 
quite  a common  item  of  their  programme.  So  was  the  salto  del  testuz, 
or  leap  along  the  bull’s  back. 

“A  dare-devil  of  that  period  was  Martin  Barcaiztegui  (sumamed 
Martincho ) a cowherd  of  Guipuzcoa.  His  feats  sowed  panic  among  the 
spectators.  His  favorite  accomplishment  was  to  mount  upon  a table, 
where  his  legs  were  closely  fettered  with  massive  irons.  The  whole  was 
then  set  opposite  the  toril  where  the  bull  was  kept  and  whence  he  entered 
the  arena.  The  bull,  emerging,  sighted  the  table,  covered  with  a crim- 
son cloth,  and  charged  it,  when  Martincho  would  leap  along  his  back 
from  head  to  tail,  and  alight  in  perfect  safety.  On  a certain  occasion, 
at  Zaragoza,  Martincho , seated  in  a chair,  killed  a bull  by  a single  thrust, 
using  his  hat  as  a muleta. 

“ Pedro  Romero,  third  and  greatest  of  the  Ronda  family,  who  was  born 
in  1 754,  died  in  1 839.  at  the  age  of  eighty-five,  after  having  killed,  during 
his  fighting  career  of  thirty  years,  5,600  bulls,  the  greater  part  of  them 
recibiendo  — a dangerous  and  crucial  but  effective  method  of  planting 
the  sword  while  the  bull  advances. 


BULL-FIGHTS 


evil 


“The  indumentaria , or  costume  of  the  torero  at  the  middle  of  the  18th 
cent,  was  a plain,  buff-colored  jacket  and  breeches,  with  low  shoes  and 
a leather  belt.  Thirty  years  later  Costillares  replaced  the  belt  by  a sash 
resembling  that  now  worn,  and  later  still,  in  the  time  of  the  celebrated 
Pepe-Ilo  (horribly  gored  and  killed  in  the  Madrid  Plaza  in  1801),  the 
severity  of  the  uniform  was  further  improved  into  a similitude  of  the 
present  traje  de  luces  (brilliant  dress),  but  the  trimmings  upon  the  jacket 
were  merely  of  black  braid.  Some  twenty  years  later  this  was  replaced 
by  the  massive  gold  embroidery  which  has  continued  to  the  present.” 

As  Spain  is  the  alma  mater  of  the  Mexican  tauramachists,  or  aficio- 
nados — lovers  of  the  Lidia  Taurina — it  is  quite  natural  that  the  spec- 
tacle should  have  been  introduced  into  Mexico  by  the  soldiers  of  Cortes , 
who  erected  a bull-ring  in  the  Mexico  City  Zocalo  (p.265)  soon  after  the 
Aztec  city  was  conquered  and  long  before  the  corner-stone  of  the  Cathe- 
dral was  laid.  “ Bull-baiting  in  any  shape,”  says  Richard  Ford,  “is  irre- 
sistible to  the  Spaniard  (and  this  holds  true  of  the  Mexican) ; his  hostility 
to  the  bull  grows  with  his  growth,  and  the  very  children  play  at  Toro , 
just  as  ours  do  at  leap-frog.”  Few  grown  up-Spaniards  (or  Mexicans) 
can  pass  a bull  (hardly  a cow)  without  bullying  and  insulting  him,  by 
waving  their  cloaks  in  defiance  of  el  capeo. 

Bull-Fighters  ( Toreros , Lidiadores,  or  Gente  de  Coleta  — 
they  of  the  little  queue)  are,  as  a rule,  readily  distinguishable 
from  common  mortals.  Their  dress,  outside  the  circus,  con- 
sists of  a squat  black  hat,  a tight-fitting  jacket  which  is  left 
unbuttoned  and  does  not  reach  the  trousers;  an  open  waist- 
coat which  displays  a finely  ruffled  shirt-front  set  with  yellow 
gold  studs;  two  tiny  gold  studs  which  take  the  place  of  a 
cravat ; peg-top  trousers  (usually  black  or  gray) , which  fit  the 
buttocks  like  the  tights  of  a ballet-dancer  and  which  fall  into 
many  wrinkles  above  the  shoe-tops ; a tiny  pigtail  (about  the 
size  of  a lead-pencil)  which  falls  from,  or  is  looped-up  on,  the 
crown  of  the  head ; a massive  watch-fob  and  a variety  of  other 
jewelry  and  personal  adornments.  They  walk  with  a notice- 
able mincing  gait,  speak  very  rapidly,  eat  the  terminations  of 
their  words,  and  infuse  into  their  conversation  and  deport- 
ment a sort  of  bravado  common  to  Andalusian  plebs.  Fighters 
are  usually  known  by  some  nom  de  guerre , such  as:  Conejito  — 
little  rabbit ; Gallito — little  rooster ; Blanquito — the  little  white 
one;  Minuto  — minute;  and  similar  pseudonyms.  In  the  ab- 
sence of  a Puerta  del  Sol  at  Mexico  City,  members  of  the  craft 
congregate  in  certain  streets  (notably  the  Avenida  16  de 
Septiembre) , and  the  neighborhood  usually  smacks  of  them  and 
their  agile  profession.  The  house- walls  are  pasted  with  an- 
nouncements ( anuncios ) of  coming  tides  ; with  illuminated 
post-cards  showing  noted  diestros  in  various  attitudes,  and 
with  all  manner  of  advertisements  having  reference  to  them 
and  appealing  for  their  patronage.  The  average  yearly  kill  of 
a popular  torero  is  1 00  to  200  bulls,  according  to  the  number 
of  engagements  he  fills. 

The  profession  of  bull-fighter  is  low  caste,  although  “the 
champions  are  much  courted  by  certain  gilded  youths,  and 
are  the  pride  and  darlings  of  all  the  lower  classes.  Those  killed 
in  the  arena  were  formerly  denied  the  burial  rites,  as  dying 


BULL-FIGHTS 


cviii 

without  confession.”  It  is  a lucrative  profession  for  the  ex- 
pert matador  (killer),  but  one  attended  by  constant  danger 
while  in  the  ring.  ‘ ‘ Not  all  the  practice  in  the  world  can  render 
the  torero's  trade  a sinecure.  Mistakes  are  common  to  human- 
ity, and  a bull  often  turns  out  to  be  other  than  was  antici- 
pated. Even  a slip  may  prove  the  matador  s undoing.  In  the 
actual  moment  of  delivering  the  estocada  (thrust)  the  matador 
must  achieve  both  one  and  other  of  two  objects.  He  must  kill 
the  bull,  and  avoid  being  killed  himself;  the  first  by  driving 
the  sword  with  proper  strength  and  in  the  proper  direction,  in 
a very  limited  and  un-get-at-able  area ; the  second,  by  simul- 
taneously affording  the  animal  a proper  egress  with  the  muleta. 
Of  course  this  sounds  particularly  easy,  but  possibly,  with 
those  needle-like  horns  a couple  of  inches  from  your  chest,  the 
impression  is  less  exhilarating.”  In  spite  of  all  precautions, 
the  list  of  accidents  ( cogidas ) in  the  ring,  fatal  or  otherwise,  is 
a long  one.  When  a fighter,  whatever  his  category,  is  “ caught  ” 
and  dashed  to  the  ground,  without  the  bull’s  affording  him 
time  to  rise,  his  best  chance  of  escaping  with  a minimum  of 
injury  obviously  consists  in  lying  perfectly  motionless,  face 
downward.  Here,  again,  is  a maxim  more  easily  dictated  than 
observed,  yet  the  presence  of  mind  the  average  plucky  torero 
retains,  throughout  so  crucial  a moment,  is  quite  astonishing. 
On  certain  occasions  it  is  possible  for  a torero  to  save  a com- 
rade’s life  by  coleando,  or  hanging  from  the  bull’s  tail,  a risky 
and  self-sacrificing  act. 

“ Cogidas,  though  frequent,  are  naturally  not  of  constant  occurrence, 
but  even  a slight  wound  caused  by  a bull’s  horn  requires  delicate  treat- 
ment, and  is  predisposed  to  complications.  Apart  from  the  splintering  of 
the  horn,i  it  is  almost  sure  to  be  covered  with  grit  and  sand,  or  steeped  in 
the  blood  of  diseased  horses.  Owing,  again,  to  the  positions  commonly 
adopted  by  the  fighters  in  order  to  perform  their  work,  a cogida  is  more 
often  than  not  about  the  groin  or  thighs,  jeopardizing  the  femoral  artery, 
the  intestine,  and  the  kidneys  — the  most  vulnerable  portions  of  the 
body.” 

“Not  only  must  the  matador  be  cool,  alert,  patient,  and 
thoroughly  understand  the  duties  of  his  cuadrilla  in  order  to 
capably  direct  their  work,  but  his  judgment  must  be  ripe  and 
accurate,  his  nerve  unflinching.  He  must  be  impervious  to  the 
animadversions  of  the  multitude,  from  whom  he  is  sure  to 
hear,  upon  an  ‘ off  day/  a deal  of  ribald  criticism  and  insolent 
censure.  Nothing,  however  aggravating,  must  put  him  out  of 
temper.  He  must  trust  implicitly  to  his  experience  of  the  dan- 
gerous beasts  he  has  to  kill.  He  must  make  his  ‘ passes’  close 
to  his  enemy  without  shifting  his  feet,  which  is  always  ugly, 
and  prone  to  be  interpreted  as  asco  or  ‘funk.’  He  must  pass 
in  rigid  accordance  with  the  precepts  of  the  game,  employing 

1 “ The  correct  term  in  toresque  euphuism  is  astas , spears  ; cuernos , 
horns,  is  seldom  mentioned  to  ears  polite,  as  its  secondary  meaning 
might  give  offence.” 


BULL-FIGHTS 


cix 


certain  1 passes/  to  correspond  with  certain  indications  on 
the  part  of  the  bull,  and  when  he  has  worked  the  latter  to  a 
proper  posture,  squarely  planted  (cuadrado) , exactly  facing 
him,  with  head  at  a suitable  elevation,  and  each  pair  of  feet 
planted  closely  together,  he  must  drive  the  estoque  home  at  the 
proper  spot,  and  provide  for  his  own  exit. 

“ The  magnificent  costume  of  a matador  adds  very  consider- 
ably to  the  brilliance  of  the  spectacle.  His  glittering  attire 
costs  him  hundreds  of  pesos,  and  consists  of  the  black,  curly 
cap  or  montera,  jacket,  waistcoat,  and  breeches,  all  three 
elaborately  worked,  and  heavily  loaded  with  flashing  bobbins 
of  gold  thread;  white  embroidered  shirt,  with  narrow  wrist- 
bands and  low  collar,  long,  narrow  tie,  silk  sash,  two  pairs  of 
stockings,  and  heelless  running  shoes.  All  this,  together  with 
the  gorgeous  capote  de  paseo,  or  ‘ parade  cloak/  completes  the 
outward  matador.  Just  as  though  he  were  some  theatrical 
artiste,  he  is  dressed  by  his  criado  (servant),  who  puts  him 
through  the  lengthy  process  of  drawing  on  two  pairs  of  tight- 
fitting  stockings,  the  under  pair  of  white  cotton,  the  upper  of 
flesh-colored  silk ; then  winding  him  round  and  round  in  his 
sash  — seven  times  is  the  approved  number  — and  1 doing 
his  hair,’  that  is,  attaching  to  the  natural  coleta  or  diminutive 
pigtail,  twisted  up  at  the  back  of  his  head,  the  mushroom- 
shaped bunch  of  black  silk  known  as  the  ‘mono.’  ” 

A famous  matador  will  sometimes  receive  from  S3, 000  to 
So, 000  for  a single  corrida , but  from  this  sum  he  pays  the  sal- 
aries of  the  three  banderilleros  and  the  three  picadores  of  his 
cuadrilla. 

The  salary  of  a banderillero,  who  ranks  next  to  the  matador, 
or  espada  (swordsman),  is  in  absolute  disproportion  to  that 
of  his  chief,  and  it  seldom  exceeds  S50  for  an  afternoon’s  work. 
“Neither  is  the  risk  run  by  the  banderilleros  a slight  one;  for 
to  drive  a couple  of  barbs  at  a yard’s  distance  into  the  hide  of  a 
furious  and  nimble  beast,  is  also  an  operation  of  considerable 
nicety.  The  banderilleros  go  right  up  to  him,  holding  the 
arrow’s  at  the  shaft’s  end,  and  pointing  the  barbs  at  the  bull ; 
just  when  the  animal  stoops  to  toss  them,  they  dart  them  into 
his  neck  and  slip  aside.  The  service  requires  a quick  eye,  a 
light  hand  and  foot.  The  barbs  should  be  placed  exactly  on 
each  side  — a pretty  pair,  a good  match  — buenos  pares. 
Sometimes  the  arrows  ( banderillas  defuego)  are  provided  with 
crackers,  which,  by  means  of  a detonating  powder,  explode 
the  moment  they  are  affixed  in  the  neck.  The  agony  of  the 
tortured  animal  frequently  makes  him  bound  like  a kid,  to  the 
frantic  delight  of  the  people. 

“A  very  clever  banderillero  will  sometimes  seat  himself  in 
a chair,  wait  for  the  bull’s  approach,  plant  the  arrows  in  his 
neck,  and  slip  away,  leaving  the  chair  to  be  tossed  into  the  air. 
This  feat  is  uncommon,  and  gains  immense  applause.  The 


cx 


BULL-FIGHTS 


public  sometimes  shout  for  the  principals  to  banderillear  a 
single  bull,  generally  the  fifth,  and  the  maestros  not  infre- 
quently concede  the  favor. 

‘‘The  picadores , who  appear  to  run  the  greatest  risk  of  all, 
are  subject  to  hairbreadth  escapes  and  severe  falls;  few  have 
a sound  rib  left.  They  have  a long  way  to  fall,  and  are  at- 
tacked by  the  bull  while  he  is  quite  fresh,  added  to  which,  if 
they  tumble  cd  descubierto,  on  the  side  of  the  barrier  furthest 
from  it  and  nearest  to  the  bull,  they  are  in  a bad  plight,  foi 
a metal  or  thick  leather  case  is  upon  their  leg,  so  that  they  are 
powerless  to  rise  without  assistance.  Nevertheless,  a picador 
is  seldom  killed  outright,  unless,  which  rarely  happens,  his 
head  be  cleanly  dashed  against  the  barrier.  His  body  is  thickly 
padded,  and  he  generally  possesses  the  ability  to  fall  ‘lightly’ 
like  a cat.  The  bull  often  tosses  horse  and  rider  in  one  run ; 
and  when  the  victims  fall  on  the  ground,  exhausts  his  rage 
on  his  prostrate  enemies,  till  lured  away  by  the  glittering 
cloaks  of  the  chulos,  who  come  to  the  assistance  of  the  fallen 
picador.  These  horsemen  often  show  marvellous  skill  in  man- 
aging to  place  their  horses  as  a rampart  between  them  and  the 
bull.  The  picador , if  wounded,  is  carried  out  and  forgotten, 
— los  muertos  e idos  no  tienen  amigos  (the  dead  and  absent 
have  no  friends),  — a new  combatant  fills  the  gap,  the  battle 
rages,  he  is  not  missed,  fresh  incidents  rise,  and  no  time  is  left 
for  regret  or  reflection. 

u The  picador  wears  the  broad-brimmed  Thessalian  hat  with 
its  pompon,  his  legs  are  cased  wdth  iron  and  leather,  which 
gives  a heavy  look ; and  the  right  one,  which  is  presented  to 
the  bull,  is  the  best  protected.  This  greave  is  termed  la  monat 
or  gregoriana , from  the  inventor,  Don  Gregorio  Gallo” 

The  best  Fighting  Bulls  ( toros  bravos ) are  Andalusian. 
They  are  bred  by  ganaderos  (breeders)  of  world-wide  repute, 
some  of  them  men  of  wealth  and  title.  Those  reared  in  the 
vacadas  (establishments)  of  the  Duke  of  Veragua,  the  Marques 
de  Saltillo,  Pablo  Romero,  Campos  Varela,  and  Sefior  Miiira 
(Spain)  have  the  greatest  reputation  at  present.  Some  Portu- 
guese cattle  are  also  imported.  When  a torero  signs  a con- 
tract to  appear  in  Mexican  plazas  de  toros  he  usually  plans 
to  bring  a certain  number  of  valiant  Spanish  bulls  with 
him. 

Every  year  (usually  in  the  spring)  the  ganadero  holds  his 
tienta , or  trial  of  the  fighting  qualities  of  the  calves,  a cere- 
mony which  is  intended  to  weed  the  bad  becerros  from  the 
good,  these  to  be  fought  in  the  bull  circus,  the  faulty  ones  to 
be  sold  for  killing  or  agriculture.  An  intermediate  class  are 
those  which  are  fought  under  the  name  of  rwvillos,  by  second- 
rate  matador es  or  novilleros , and  not  in  the  corridas  formates , 
but  at  novilladas  (p.  xcviii) . These  novillas  belong  to  the  dese- 
cho  de  tienta , the  “ rejected  in  the  proof,”  but  it  is  not  unusual 


BULL-FIGHTS 


cxi 


for  them  to  make  a very  respectable  fight,  notwithstanding. 
The  tienta  can  be  performed  in  more  ways  than  one,  but  as 
a rule  the  young  animals  are  driven  singly  into  a yard  where 
a horseman,  preferably  a picador , aided  by  a helper  afoot 
with  a capote  (cape)  offers  at  them  with  a lance  tipped  with 
a very  small  goad,  and  considerably  shorter  than  the  garro- 
chas  (pikes)  employed  in  the  ring  proper.  If  the  bull  dashes  at 
the  horse,  ignores  the  pain  of  the  goad,  and  returns  with  spirit 
to  the  charge,  he  will  do,  and  is  promoted  to  the  aprobados, 
or  selected  candidates.  The  heifers  are  also  tested,  since  the 
mettle  of  the  dam  must  narrowly  concern  her  offspring,  and 
the  semental  or  stud-bull  is  sure  to  be  a stately  and  expensive 
beast  of  noble  presence  and  proven  lineage. 

The  ganadero  sells  his  beasts  a corrida  at  a time,  the  usual 
number  being  consequently  four  or  six  or  eight,  and  the  price 
per  head,  in  the  case  of  the  choicest  Spanish  cattle,  delivered 
at  the  hacienda  (ganaderia)  in  Spain,  is  about  2,000  Spanish 
pesetas , about  $400  American  money,  or  $800  Mexican.  The 
I huge  cage  in  which  they  are  transported,  the  marine  freight, 
and  the  cost  of  the  attendant,  and  the  added  expenses  when 
the  animal  reaches  Mexico,  bring  its  cost  to  about  $1,200 
Mexican  silver.  The  Mexican-bred  bulls  — among  the  finest 
of  which  are  from  the  haciendas  of  T epeyahualco , Piedras 
Negras,  Santin , San  Nicolas  Peralta , and  San  Diego  de  los  Pa- 
dres — - cost  less  than  half  this  sum,  but  they  sometimes  lack 
the  bravura  (courage)  of  their  Spanish  brothers.  Some,  how- 
ever, particularly  those  interbred  with  imported  cattle,  are  as 
fiery  as  any  one  could  wish  for.  The  animals  are  all  numbered, 
and  on  the  bills  their  names  and  colors  are  given.  These  names 
usually  refer  to  some  characteristic  of  color ; some  trait  or  phy- 
sical defect.  A splendid  old  bull  will  be  known  as  the  Mira - 
Cielo  (star-gazer) ; Cochinito  (little  pig) ; Golondrino  (male  swal- 
low) ; Rabicano  (usually  applied  to  a horse  with  white  strands 
of  hair  in  a dark  tail) ; Relamido  (prude),  and  the  like. 

Imported  bulls  require  at  least  three  months’  rest  after  their 
long  journey,  to  fit  them  for  the  ring.  When  not  carried 
through  the  city  streets  in  ponderous  boxes  — not  unlike  a 
bathing-machine,  but  with  a lift-up  end  — they  pass  through 
at  night,  accompanied  by  cabestros,  tame  oxen,  who  keep  the 
wild  bulls  together  with  the  watchfulness  of  a collie  controlling 
a flock  of  sheep.  They  not  infrequently  break  away  and  career 
through  the  streets,  sowing  consternation  in  their  path.  The 
day  before  the  fight,  the  bulls,  now  in  the  corral  adjoining  the 
toril,  are  on  exhibition,  and  the  unemployed  public  flocks  out 
to  see  them,  sizing  up  their  good  points,  just  as  a book-maker  at 
a race-track  estimates  the  racing  qualities  of  some  ‘ dark  horse.’ 

“The  bulls,  variously  known  as  animates,  bichos , cormipetos, 
toros , and  whatnot  (the  public  possesses  an  extraordinary 
range  of  names  for  the  cowardly  ones),  are  of  several  sorts  — 


CX11 


BULL-FIGHTS 


levantados,  the  bold  and  rushing;  parados,  the  slow  and  sly; 
aplomados,  the  heavy  and  leaden;  sanguijuelas  (leeches),  when 
they  keep  the  public  in  suspense,  and  bueyes  de  carreta  (cart 
oxen),  when  they  refuse  to  fight  and  turn  tail.  The  worst  of  all 
are  the  sly  bulls : when  they  are  mairajos,  y desentido,  cunning, 
and  not  running  straight ; when  they  are  revueltos  — those 
that  stop  in  their  charge  and  run  at  the  man  instead  of  the 
flag,  they  are  the  most  dangerous.  The  lifetime  experience  of 
the  torero  avails  but  little  with  such  an  animal,  and  his  life 
hangs  in  the  balance.  A bold  bull  sometimes  is  cold  and  shy 
at  first,  but  grows  warmer  by  being  punished.  Those  which 
are  very  active,  alegros,  ligeros,  con  muchas  piernas  ; those 
who  paw  the  ground  — que  arahan  la  tierra,  are  not  much 
esteemed : they  are  hooted  by  the  populace  and  execrated  as 
becerritos  (little  calves),  vacas  (cows),  and  the  like.  Should  the 
empresa  (company),  by  any  ill  luck,  calculation  or  lack  of  it, 
bring  several  cowardly  bulls  into  the  ring,  thus  depriving  the 
public  of  their  just  rights,  pandemonium  breaks  loose.  The 
people  execrate  them  for  ladrones  (thieves)  and  embusteros 
(fakes) : pound  the  animals  with  sticks,  pelt  the  cuadrilla  with 
anything  movable,  and  often  go  to  the  extent  of  wrecking  the 
bull-ring.  The  authorities  force  the  empresario  to  return  the 
public’s  money,  and,  as  a gentle  reminder,  fine  him  $500  or 
more  for  having  disappointed  the  assembly.  This  is  not  an 
uncommon  occurrence  in  the  smaller  Mexican  cities.” 

In  the  last  analysis  the  bull-fight  is  a curious  and  pictur- 
esque spectacle  — one  no  doubt  doomed  to  disappear  soon 
from  Mexico. 

On  more  than  one  occasion  bull-fights  have  been  forbidden 
within  the  Federal  District,  but  popular  clamor  has  caused 
them  to  be  reinstated.  At  present  the  laws  of  many  of  the 
Mexican  cities  and  towns  forbid  them. 

The  Liga  Anti-taurina  (society  for  the  suppression  of  bull- 
fights) is  engaged  in  an  active  propaganda  against  the  alleged 
sport  and  it  is  thought  that  eventually  it  will  triumph.  Many 
intelligent  Mexicans  deplore  the  exhibitions,  but  view  them 
in  the  light  of  a safety  valve  perhaps  necessaty  for  a certain 
element  of  the  populace. 

Few  Americans  are  willing  to  go  a second  time  to  see  the 
awful  and  unmerited  punishment  meted  out  to  the  unfortunate 
horses  — obedient  beasts  closing  a lifetime  of  hard  but  will- 
ing service,  and  indubitably  deserving  of  a better  fate.  Some 
foreigners  no  doubt  go  with  the  unexpressed  hope  that  the 
fighters  may  get  a taste  of  the  cruelty  accorded  the  animals, 
and  in  this  they  sometimes  are  not  disappointed.  For  it  is  a 
lethal  game,  and  one  in  which  the  Law  of  Compensation  works 
with  clock-like  regularity. 

Cock-Fighting  ( Pelea  de  Gallos ),  a senseless  and  cruel  sport, 
is  usually  practised  by  the  less  reputable  classes  and  is  frowned 


JUEGO  DE  PELOTA  cxiii 

upon  by  the  Government.  Most  tourists  will  prefer  to  eschew 
the  sight:  those  who  are  interested  will  perhaps  witness  the 
best  fights  at  country  fairs,  of  which  almost  every  provincial 
town  in  the  Republic  has  one  or  more  annually.  Impromptu 
cock-fights  are  daily  occurrences  in  many  Mex.  towns.  Game 
cockerels  are  the  prized  possessions  of  many  Mex.  families 
of  the  ignorant  class,  and  they  are  to  them  what  razor-back 
swine  are  to  the  Georgia  Cracker  and  hounds  to  the  Ken- 
tucky mountaineers. 

The  Juego  de  Pelota,  an  interesting  Spanish  ball  game  said 
to  have  been  introduced  into  Mexico  by  the  Basques,  and 
very  popular  among  Spaniards,  is  something  like  tennis,  and 
“ h^LS  its  nearest  analogue  in  the  pallone  of  the  Italians.”  It  is 
played  in  large  halls  called  frontones  (seating  capacity  about 
1500),  from  the  high  front  wall,  frontis,  against  which  The  ball 
( pelota ) is  thrown.  The  side  wall,  which  is  74  meters  long, 
is  called  derecha,  and  the  rear  wall,  against  which  the  ball 
rebounds,  is  rebote.  The  cement  floor  where  the  players  stand 
is  cancha,  and  the  strip  between  this  and  the  seats,  or  locali - 
dades,  is  contra-cancha.  The  professional  players  ( pelotaris ) 
are  usually  Basques  or  Navarrese,  who  receive  from  $250  to 
$1200  a month  salary.  They  wear  a kind  of  cestus  on  the 
right  hand,  attached  to  a leathern  gauntlet,  bound  on  with 
thongs,  and  are  noted  for  unusual  agility,  considerable  endur- 
ance, and  no  mean  skill.  The  balls  are  of  rubber,  usually  cov- 
ered with  leather,  like  tennis-balls,  and  weigh  about  4 oz. 
They  are  cast  from  the  cestus  against  the  end  wall  to  rebound 
and  be  caught  by  the  opponent;  failure  to  catch  them  in  the 
cestus  scores  in  favor  of  the  adversary.  The  two  players  near- 
est the  frontis  are  Delanteros,  the  two  in  the  rear  Zagueros. 
The  serve  is  termed  el  sdque  ; a good  one  being  limpio  (clean) , 
a bad  one,  sucio,  or  dirty.  The  performance  or  funcion  is  usu- 
ally composed  of  two  games  with  a score  of  30  and  35  re- 
spectively ( partidos  d 85  tantos),  between  two  pairs  of  players 
(the  colors  of  one  couple  being  blue,  the  other  white) , and  of 
two  quinielas  d 6 tantos  — two  short  games  in  which  one  couple 
among  six  players  wins.  Betting  is  freely  indulged  in;  men 
wearing  red  caps  pass  among  the  crowd  and  register  bets 
(apuestos) , and  the  house  serves  as  stake-holder  and  reserves 
10%  (diez  por  ciento)  for  its  profit.  There  is  also  a betting- 
stand,  like  that  at  a race-course,  where  the  “house”  is  the 
book-maker;  and  where  the  visitor  may  pick  his  combination 
(applied  to  the  quiniela).  invest  two  pesos  or  more,  and  stand  to 
lose  them  or  to  gain  twenty  or  more  pesos.  On  week  days 
there  are  usually  three  performances  (Tues.,  Thurs.,  and 
Sat.),  from  9 to  12  p.  m.,  and  one  on  Sunday  from  3.30  to 
9 p.  m.  General  entrance  fee,  $1.25;  with  reserved  seat,  $2.50. 
Ladies  will  prefer  the  palco  primero  (6  seats  for  $8),  or  first 


CXIV 


MUSEUMS  — CHURCHES 


gallery,  where  there  is  immunity  from  being  hit  by  the 
ball.1 

Museums  and  Picture  Galleries  are  generally  open  (free)  on 
everyday  but  Saturday  (cleaning  day),  between  10  and  4. 
Those  of  Mexico  City  (p.  265)  are  the  best  in  the  Republic. 
Outside  of  the  National  Capital  there  are  but  few  picture  gal- 
leries worth  seeing.  As  a rule  each  State  has,  in  the  Capital 
City,  a Museo  del  Estado  (usually  located  in  the  Palacio  del 
Estado)  devoted  to  state  products  and  antiquities.  The  travel- 
ler can  spend  his  time  to  better  advantage  inspecting  the  Na- 
tional Museum  at  Mex.  City.  Fees  are  unnecessary.  Certain  of 
the  country  churches  possess  pictures  worth  seeing,  and  these 
are  described  in  their  proper  places  in  the  Handbook. 

Most  of  the  Mexican  Churches  are  open  all  day  (free)  ex- 
cept from  12  to  3.  They  are  always  open  early  in  the  morning 
(6  to  10),  and  at  this  time  the  attending  natives  may  be  stud- 
ied to  good  advantage.  Non-parochial  churches,  wherein  the 
worship  differs  from  that  of  parroquias,  are  usually  closed  for 
the  day  at  10  a.  m.,  excepting  Sundays,  when  they  are  open  all 
day.  Travellers  will  do  well  to  plan  their  visits  accordingly,  as 
the  sacristan  opens  the  doors  somewhat  grudgingly  if  aroused 
from  his  noonday  siesta,  and  the  operation  may  entail  delay 
and  a fee.  Saturday  is  not  a good  day  to  visit  churches,  as  they 
are  usually  cleaned  on  this  day  to  be  ready  for  the  Sunday 
services.  Tactful  strangers  will  be  careful  not  to  disturb  the 
worshippers  by  talking  during  the  services,  passing  in  front 
of  the  high  altar  while  others  are  praying  before  it,  or  by  show- 
ing contempt  or  a lack  of  consideration  for  the  Catholic  cere- 
monials. No  man  will  fail  to  remove  his  hat  when  entering  a 
church,  and  all  will  remember  that  the  house  is  open  for  rest, 
meditation,  and  prayer.  As  fees  are  never  exacted  in  Mexican 
churches  (it  being  forbidden),  and  as  strangers  are  freely  per- 
mitted to  inspect  objects  of  interest,  sometimes  even  during 
services,  well-bred  persons  will  feel  it  their  duty  to  conform  as 
nearly  as  possible  to  the  few  requirements. 

The  visitor  will  find  the  naves  and  aisles  of  some  of  the 
churches  blocked  up  with  boarding  and  scaffolding,  and  many 
months  sometimes  elapse  before  an  uninterrupted  view  of  the 
interior  is  obtained.  Many  of  the  churches  built  by  the  Span- 
iards are  so  old  as  to  require  almost  constant  repairs ; when 
these  are  undertaken  the  order  of  the  decoration  is  not  infre- 
quently changed.  It  is  the  prevailing  fashion  to  “ renovate ” 
them,  sadly  to  the  detriment  of  the  fine  old  altars  and  cor  os. 
The  native  stone-cutters  are  adepts  in  the  art  of  chiselling  de- 
signs on  wTork  already  in  position,  and  this  often  accounts  for 

1 Certain  historians  hold  the  belief  that  pelota  (the  Aztec  tlaihiyotentli) 
was  introduced  into  Spain  (from  Mexico)  by  Hernan  Cortes.  Consult  La 
Ciudad  de  Mexico , by  Jose  Maria  Marroqui,  tomo  iii,  p.  185. 


CHURCHES 


cxv 


the  modern  enrichments  the  critical  travellers  will  observe 
on  piers,  architraves  and  whatnot  whose  basic  decorations 
belong  to  older  orders.  The  Byzantine  order  is  the  favorite 
with  Mexican  ecclesiastics  of  the  present  school. 

It  is  the  custom  to  hang  or  paste  ex-votos  on  the  doors  and 
outer  walls  of  Mexican  churches,  and  various  notices  invoking 
pater-nosters  (or  aves)  for  the  repose  of  the  souls  of  departed 
friends:  advertisements  soliciting  alms  or  referring  to  forth- 
coming functions  at  other  churches,  and  exhortations  and 
death-notices,  are  usually  to  be  found  on  church  facades. 
These  sometimes  mislead  the  visitor  regarding  the  name  of 
the  church  — to  be  sure  of  which  he  should  always  ask  the 
sacristdn.  Religious  tracts,  silver  or  wax  objects  to  be  used 
as  votive  offerings,  ribbons  purporting  to  give  the  size  of  the 
virgin’s  head,  or  of  that  of  some  particular  santo  or  santa  : 
photographs  of  holy  personages,  prayer-books,  and  such,  are 
usually  offered  for  sale  at  the  church  atriums  or  just  within 
the  entrance.  There  is  usually  a tallow-chandler’s  place  hard 
by,  where  candles1  ranging  in  size  from  five  inches  to  as  many 
feet  are  sold  to  the  faithful.  Wheedling  beggars  of  both  sexes 
are  often  permitted  to  solicit  alms,  search  their  dirty  garments 
for  indiscriminating  and  nimble  fleas,  or  to  replace  loathsome 
bandages  on  disgusting  wounds  within  or  near  churches.  Pick- 
pockets ( rateros , comp.  p.  lxvii)  also  ply  their  trade  in  churches, 
and  the  traveller  should  be  constantly  on  his  guard  against 
them. 

The  claptrap,  meretricious  display  resorted  to  in  certain 
Mex.  churches  which  pander  to  the  bad  taste  and  imagination 
of  Indian  parishioners,  is  not  always  to  the  liking  of  the  en- 
lightened bishops,  who  issue  synodals  opposed  to  it : the  prac- 
tice still  flourishes,  however,  in  the  remote  towns. 

As  a general  rule,  the  student  (and  particularly  the  ecclesiolo- 
gist)  should  carefully  inspect  the  metropolitan  church  of  each 
See,  as  it  will  usually  be  found  to  furnisli  the  type  of  the  minor 
collegiate  and  parochial  churches  within  the  diocese:  “and 
although  a general  homogeneous  style  marks  architectural 
periods  throughout  the  Republic,  yet  architecture,  like  dia- 
lects and  costume,  has  its  localisms  and  provincialisms,  which 
are  apt  to  be  pronounced  in  Mexico.”  While  some  of  the 
minor  churches  are  noteworthy  for  the  trumpery  character  of 
their  ornamentation,  — particularly  those  favored  by  Indians, 
— many  are  rich  in  historical  interest,  beside  being  attractive 
from  an  architectural  viewpoint. 

For  a better  understanding  of  Mexican  churches  the  follow- 
ing data  and  technical  terms  may  be  found  useful. 

A Cathedral  (Spanish  = Catedral)  “ is  the  roof  to  protect 


1 Candles  ( velas ) to  the  value  of  ten  thousand  pesos  a month  are  said 
to  be  used  in  the  churches  of  the  Mexican  Republic. 


CXV1 


CHURCHES 


and  the  walls  to  enclose  the  cathedra , the  chair  of  the  bishop  — 
the  throne  which  that  high  officer  occupies  for  certain  occa- 
sions of  ecclesiastical  ceremony.”  The  proper  term  is  cathe- 
dral-church. Such  a building  is  not  necessarily  large  or  splen- 
did, but  those  found  in  most  of  the  large  Mexican  towns  are, 
as  a rule,  larger  than  the  other  churches.  The  cathedrals  gen- 
erally have  a Camilla  (chapel),  fitted  up  as  a parish  church, 
attached  to  them,  and  called  Sagrario  (sanctuary,  tabernacle), 
of  which  the  Sagrario  Metropolitano,  at  Mexico  City  (p.  290), 
is  an  example.  Many  of  them  have  also  another,  called  Capitta 
Real  (royal  chapel)  — because  high  personages  are  buried 
there  — in  each  of  which  separate  services  are  performed  by 
separate  establishments  of  clergy. 

Parochial  ( parroquial  or  la  parroquia)  or  parish  churches, 
presided  over  by  a padre  (priest) , are  features  of  all  Mexican 
towns,  even  the  small  Indian  pueblos.  They  generally  face  or 
flank  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucidn  or  central  square,  and  they 
are  often  mistaken  for  cathedrals. 

Collegiate  Churches  ( colegiatas ) differ  from  cathedrals 
only  in  the  ecclesiastical  organization.  They  are  usually  found 
in  the  larger  towns. 

Sanctuaries  ( santuarios ) are  churches  or  chapels  wherein 
are  enshrined  figures  or  images  of  celebrated  santos  or  santas, 
such  as  the  Collegiate  Church  or  Santuario  de  Nuestra  Sehora 
de  Guadalupe  (p.  397).  They  differ  but  slightly  from  the  ordi- 
nary parroquia , but  they  are  usually  held  in  higher  esteem,  as 
places  consecrated  to  some  alleged  miracle-working  object. 

Convents  ( conventos ),  hundreds  of  which  were  suppressed 
by  the  Reform  Laws,  exist  in  but  few  places  in  Mex.  They 
have  lost  their  original  status  and  are  now  only  religious 
schools  or  hospitals  under  strict  Government  surveillance. 

The  large  churches  ( iglesias  grandes)  are  generally  in  the 
form  of  a Latin  cross  ( cruz  latina) : the  arms  of  the  cross  form 
the  transepts  ( crucero ).  Above  this  rises  the  dome  ( cimborio , 
cupula,  media-naranja) , oftentimes  painted  within,  and  cov- 
ered on  the  outside  with  colored  tiles  ( azulejos ).  The  nave 
(nave)  is  flanked  by  piers  (columnas,  pilastras),  whence  spring 
the  roof  ( boveda ) . The  piers  are  oftentimes  draped  with  damask 
or  velvet  hangings  ( colgaduras ),  w'hile  streamers  in  the  na- 
tional colors  — emblematic  of  Government  sovereignty  over 
the  Church — pend  from  the  high  dome  or  from  some  point  in 
the  interior.  The  lateral  chapels  ( capillas  later  ales) , open  on  the 
aisles  (alas)  — of  which  there  are  ordinarily  two  — and  flank 
the  nave.  In  some  of  the  cathedrals  the  choir  (coro)  follows 
the  Spanish  fashion  and  is  placed  in  the  middle  of  the  nave 
(because  of  its  suitability  to  the  Romish  ritual),  blocking  it 
and  destroying  the  view  (vista)  from  the  entrance  (entrada) 
to  the  high  altar.  The  coro  is  lined  with  stalls  (sillas) , and  the 
seats  (silleria  del  coro)  are  often  beautifully  carved ; as  are  also 


CHURCHES 


CXVll 


the  chorister-book  desks  ( atriles ) and  the  lectern  ( facistol ). 
Where  the  coro  is  placed  in  the  nave,  the  back,  or  tras-coro,  is 
customarily  occupied  by  n chapel  dedicated  to  Nuestro  Sefior 
del  Perdon,  and  called  Camilla  del  Perdon.  The  sides  of  the 
choir  ( respaldos  del  coro)  are  generally  adorned  with  pictures 

— sometimes  with  a small  altar.  The  handsomely  carved 
organ-case  of  cathedral  choirs  is  oftentimes  noteworthy.  In 
the  smaller  churches  the  coro  usually  occupies  the  organ  loft, 
above  the  main  entrance  ( entrada  principal ) . In  certain  cathe- 
drals there  are  two  organs  ( organos ),  one  above  the  entrance, 
the  other  (used  only  on  special  occasions)  behind  the  high 
altar.  Just  inside  the  doorway  of  churches  is  a stoup  ( pila ) 
which  contains  the  holy  water  ( agua  bendita).  The  crypts 
( cryptas ) are  underground  vaults  where  bishops  and  other 
ecclesiastics  and  notables  are  buried.  Because  of  the  moist 
sub-soil,  crypts  are  not  as  common  at  Mexico  City  as  elsewhere. 

The  High  Altar  (altar  mayor)  oftentimes  fills  the  entire 
end  of  the  nave,  and  is  usually  the  most  attractive  feature  of 
the  church.  When  located  in  the  apse,  it  is  generally  backed 
by  a resplendent  Churrigueresque  or  Baroque  retable  ( retablo ), 
with  many  miniature  paintings  and  figurines,  and  much  gilded 
work.  Certain  Mexican  cathedrals  have  fine  stained-glass  win- 
dows in  the  east  end  of  the  nave,  and  the  morning  light  (sun- 
rise) effect  is  beautiful.  On  special  occasions  the  altar  mayor 

— which  is  usually  adorned  with  statuary,  elaborate  cande- 
labra, etc.  — is  decked  with  embroidered  coverlets:  at  such 
times  the  vestments  worn  by  the  officiating  clergy  are  beau- 
tiful and  costly.  A massive  silver  railing  ( barandilla , comulga - 
torio)  not  unusually  encloses  the  high  altar.  On  passing  the 
high  altar  Catholics  always  bend  the  knee  or  cross  them- 
selves, since  the  Incarnate  Host  (Ostia  or  Purisima ),  in  the 
form  of  the  Consecrated  Wafer,  is  always  placed  thereon:  in 
order  not  to  offend,  the  considerate  Protestant  will  manifest 
an  outward  respect  for  this  custom.  This  altar  in  Roman 
Catholic  churches  usually  faces  east,  where  the  Star  of  Beth- 
lehem rose.  Many  Mexicans  remove  their  hats  when  passing 
the  entrance  to  a church,  or  when  they  hear  the  church  bells 
ring. 

The  church  pulpits  (pidpitos)  are  often  several  in  number  — - 
usually  of  onyx,  marble,  or  wood,  quaintly  carved  or  gilded. 
The  chancel  (cancel)  is  the  huge  wood  structure,  resembling 
a storm-door,  just  within  the  church  entrance.  The  presbi - 
terio  is  the  platform  whereon  mass  is  said.  In  certain  cathe- 
drals the  high  altar  occupies  this  platform  and  is  reached  by 
a series  of  gradas  or  steps. 

Churches  are  often  surrounded  by  a long  stone  platform 
which,  if  ascended  by  steps,  is  called  a gree  (grado).  That  por- 
tion directly  in  front  of  the  entrance  is  the  atrium  (atrio). 
The  Mexican  coat-of-arms  is  customarily  placed  above  the 


cxviii  CHURCHES 

main  entrance;  and  above  this  is  a flag-pole  from  which  the 
national  flag  ( bander  a , pabellon)  floats  on  certain  occasions. 
The  towers  ( torres ) are  frequently  left  unfinished  to  disarm 
the  evil  eye,  and  to  serve  as  a constant  pretext  for  begging 
pious  contributions  for  their  completion. 

Many  of  the  altars  and  pictures  in  churches  are  concealed 
by  curtains  (cortinas) , which  should  not  be  drawn  without  the 
proper  permission.  This  can  usually  be  obtained  from  the 
sacristan  ( sacristan ),  who  rarely  demands  a fee,  but  who  never 
refuses  one.  According  to  a current  Mexican  proverb  the 
average  sacristan  “does  not  know  enough  to  bless  himself” 
— no  saJbe  persignarse  — and  visitors  should  not  expect  trust- 
worthy information  from  his  kind.  A sacristan  may  be  em- 
ployed in  a church  for  years  without  knowing,  or  caring,  to 
what  santo  it  is  dedicated,  and  also  be  totally  ignorant  of  the 
church’s  historic  associations.  The  names  of  paintings  or  paint- 
ers will,  as  a rule,  be  totally  unknown  to  him.  He  is  usually 
strong  on  milagros  (miracles) , but  wofully  short  on  facts.  Good 
nature  is,  however,  often  his  redeeming  feature,  and  the  travel- 
ler in  Mexico  will  rarely  find  a disobliging  or  crusty  sacristan. 

The  life-size  devotional  images  found  in  most  Mexican 
churches  are  replicas  of  originals  which  became  very  popu- 
lar in  Spain  in  the  early  years  of  the  16th  cent.  They  may 
be  divided  into  two  groups  — Roods  (figures  of  the  Saviour 
crucified) , and  figures  of  the  Blessed  Virgin  and  of  various 
Saints.  The  first  are,  as  a general  rule,  sanguinary  and  repug- 
nant, representing  the  Redeemer  in  attitudes  of  great  physical 
pain,  crowned  by  exaggerated  thorns  and  bleeding  from  real- 
istically ghastly  wounds.  It  was  formerly  the  custom  to  carry 
these  figures,  during  Holy  Week,  at  the  head  of  street  proces- 
sions ; on  which  occasions  the  ignorant  populace  worked  itself 
to  a high  pitch  of  religious  frenzy.  The  statues  of  the  Virgin 
vary  from  life-size  to  those  of  a small  doll.  Almost  every 
church  possesses  one  or  more  images  or  figures  of  the  Virgin, 
often  gaudily  dressed,  and  so  covered  with  jewels  (usually 
false)  and  tinsel,  that  nothing  but  the  face  remains  visible. 
Certain  of  the  famous  Mexican  shrines,  notably  Guadalupe , 
Cholnla,  Amecameca,  Tlaxcala , etc.,  contain  greatly  reverenced 
paintings  or  carved  figurines.  In  certain  churches  it  is  cus- 
tomary to  worship  a lay  figure  of  Christ,  called  the  Santo 
Entierro , or  Holy  Interment  : the  figure  is  usually  clad  in 
voluminous  petticoats,  placed  on  a framework  resembling  a 
trundle-bed,  and  is  wheeled  about  the  church,  now  stationed 
at  one  chapel,  now  at  another.  Only  the  head  and  feet  (the 
latter  oftentimes  of  ivory  with  white  toe-nails)  of  the  figure 
are  visible  and  these  are  kissed  to  a high  polish  by  the  osten- 
sibly devout.  “ This  is  the  most  extreme  point,”  says  an  au- 
thority, “ to  which  the  degradation  of  the  fine  arts  can  reach.”  • 

The  zealous  but  oftentimes  bigoted  friars  who  ruthlessly 


CHURCHES 


cxix 


destroyed  the  early  Indian  manuscripts  and  idols,  professing 
to  believe  them  works  of  the  devil,  lost  no  time  in  replacing 
them  with  their  own  divinities  in  wood  or  plaster,  and  these, 
with  singular  inconsistency,  they  worshipped  with  even 
greater  fanaticism. 

Good  music  (military)  is  more  often  heard  in  Mexican  plazas 
than  in  the  churches,  where  it  is  of  a purely  devotional  char- 
acter. The  Gregorian  Chant  ( canto  Gregoriano),  popularized 
by  St.  Gregory  the  Great  (b.  540,  d.  604),  is  employed  in  cer- 
tain of  the  Mexican  churches,  to  the  exclusion  of  other  music. 
The  choristers  ( coristas ) are  men  or  boys ; women  are  excluded 
from  the  choirs.  The  Mexico  City  churches  of  San  Francisco, 
La  Profesa , Santa  Brigida  and  the  Basilica  of  Guadalupe  have 
good  choirs  and  fine  organs.  The  Protestant  Church  choirs 
are,  as  a rule,  volunteers,  and  though  the  music  is  good,  it  is 
not  as  noteworthy  as  that  of  professional  choirs  elsewhere. 

In  the  vestries  or  Sacristies  ( sacristias ) of  some  of  the 
churches  are  interesting  relics  (reliquiae)  and  pictures.  The 
old  carved  Spanish  chests  ( estantes ),  in  which  the  vestments 
( vestuario ) are  kept,  are  sometimes  very  large  and  fine.  The 
magnificently  embroidered  vestments  make  excellent  souven- 
irs. Before  the  Reform  Laws  nationalized  the  Church  pro- 
perty, some  of  the  sacristias  were  veritable  museums  of  rare 
pictures,  silver-plate,  vestments,  and  a wealth  of  ornaments 
and  relics  acquired  by  the  Church.  Some  of  these  sacristies, 
notably  that  of  the  Cathedral  in  Guadalajara,  that  at  Mexico 
City,  and  at  Puebla,  are  well  worth  visiting.  Many  of  the 
splendid  pictures  once  possessed  by  the  Church  have  been 
exported,  appropriated  by  Government  for  the  National 
Academy  of  Fine  x\rts,  or  sold  to  dealers  in  antiques. — Many 
Mexican  dwellings  possess  private  chapels,  or  sacrariums,  and 
those  in  the  homes  of  the  rich  are  often  very  sumptuous. 

For  reference  to  Church  Festivals,  see  below:  for  Church 
Architecture,  see  p.  cxxviii. 

Holidays  {dias  de  fiesta)  are  frequent  and  popular.  Of  the 
131  holidays  in  the  year  (counting  the  52  Sundays),  52  are 
saint’s  days  ( dias  de  santo),  15  solemn  feast  days,  3 holy  days 
(church),  and  six  family  feast  days.  More  than  half  the  popu- 
lation observe  them  all,  and  on  certain  of  them  the  laborers 
drop  work,  and  by  becoming  intoxicated  render  themselves 
unfit  for  work  for  several  days  afterward.  Mexico  has  its 
blue  Monday,  known  as  San  Lunes  (holy  M.),  which  many 
employees  utilize  to  recover  from  the  effects  of  Sunday  dissipa- 
tion. Government  offices,  banks,  and  business  houses  in  gen- 
eral close  (sometimes  for  the  forenoon  only)  on  many  of  the 
accepted  holidays,  and  the  traveller  will  save  himself  time  and 
annoyance  by  considering  them  when  forming  his  plans.  The 
national  military  holidays,  and  the  more  formal  church  fiestas 


PHYSIOGRAPHY 


CXXl 


religious  street  processions,  the  clergy  are  less  zealous  in  such 
matters,  and  the  attendance  is  not  so  great  as  formerly.  The 
Easter-tide  celebrations  are,  however,  still  conducted  with 
great  pomp.  A typical  Mexican  fiesta  is  that  of  St.  Peter  and 
St.  Paul  {Pedro  y Pablo)  in  June,  on  which  day  the  devil 
(diablo)  is  supposed  to  roam  abroad  to  tempt  the  unwary. 
Children  look  forward  to  this  day,  as  they  are  usually  the  re- 
cipients of  toy  swords,  pistols,  and  similar  gifts. 

An  interesting  Church  ceremony  is  that  of  the  Cuarenta 
Horasf  or  exhibition  of  the  H ostia  or  Consecrated  Wafer , in 
the  different  churches  for  40  hours;  when  the  same  spiritual 
benefit  may  be  obtained  by  praying  before  it,  as  by  an  actual 
pilgrimage  to  St.  Peter’s  (at  Rome).  As  many  of  the  Church 
fiestas  are  movable,  the  traveller  is  referred  to  the  news- 
papers for  dates  and  minor  information  concerning  them. 
In  addition  to  the  above,  some  States  have  special  local 
holidays. 

During  many  of  the  feast-days  and  holidays  the  hotels  are 
apt  to  be  uncomfortably  crowded,  and  lodgings  should  be  ar- 
ranged for  in  advance. 

XIII.  Physiography : Area.  Boundaries.  The  Mexican 

States.  Government.  Army  and  Navy.  Mountains.  Lakes. 

Rivers.  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

La  Republica  Mejicana  — often  called  Old  Mexico  — ex- 
tends from  north  latitude  14°  30'  to  32°  42',  and  from  12°  18' 
46"  of  E.  longitude  to  18°  6'  15"  of  longitude  W.  of  the  Meri- 
dian of  Mexico  City,  or  between  86°  46'  8"  and  1 17°  7'  8"  west 
of  Greenwich.  It  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  U.  S.  A.,  on  the 
S.  by  Guatemala,  on  the  E.  by  the  Golfo  de  Mexico , and  on 
the  W.  by  the  Pacific  Ocean.  It  has  a coast-line  of  6000  miles, 
and  a superficial  area  of  1,958,912  sq.  kilom.,  or  766,000  sq. 
miles.  Its  greatest  length,  mainly  represented  by  the  gigan- 
tic dorsal  ridge  of  the  Sierra  Madre,  is  1970  M.  in  a straight 
line  from  the  northwestern  extremity  of  Lower  California  to 
the  southern  border  of  the  State  of  Chiapas.  Its  maximum 
breadth,  from  E.  to  W.  on  the  line  of  N.  latitude  26°,  is 
about  750  M.  and  its  minimum,  at  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuante- 
pec, 140  miles. 

The  Rio  Grande  (big  river)  represents  a part  of  the  dividing 
line  between  Mexico  and  the  United  States,  but  the  unstable 
character  of  this  river,  and  its  persistent  efforts  to  change  its 
course,  occasion  many  international  discussions.  New  Spain 
once  included  all  the  territory  lying  between  N.  latitude  15° 

1 This  spectacle  and  privilege  was  first  introduced  at  Valencia  in  1697, 
having  been  established  at  Rome  in  1592  by  Clement  VIII.  It  is  a rever- 
sal of  the  custom  of  the  pure,  primitive  Church,  which  almost  concealed 
the  sacramental  emblems  from  all  except  the  initiated. 


CXX11 


AREA 


and  42°;  by  the  treaty  between  Spain  and  the  U.  S.  A.  (Feb. 
22,  1819)  the  northern  boundary  wsls  placed  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Sabine  River,  in  Texas ; by  the  Treaty  of  Guadalupe, 
Feb.  2,  1848,  the  dividing  line  was  fixed  at  the  Rio  Grande. 
Prior  to  this  treaty  the  area  of  Mexico  was  1,650,000  sq.  miles, 
but  the  U.  S.  A.  gained  over  half  this  territory  and  an  addi- 
tional 100,000  sq.  miles.  By  the  “ Gadsden  Purchase  ” Conven- 
tion (1853)  the  U.  S.  A.  secured  a further  addition  of  45,535 
sq.  miles.  Mexico  stands  fourth,  on  the  American  continent, 
in  its  possession  of  territory/  being  somewhat  smaller  than  the 
U.  S.  A.  (including  the  Dominion  of  Canada),  Brazil,  and 
the  Argentine  Republic. 

The  main  body  of  the  Mexican  Territory  is  a vast  table- 
land, a distinct  geographical  region,  traversed  by  extensive 
mountain  chains  of  remarkable  heights.  These  mountains 
{Sierra  Madre  or  Mother  Range),  a continuation  of  the  Cordil- 
lera of  South  America,  trend  northwesterly  from  the  Isthmus 
of  Tehuantepec  and  have  but  a moderate  elevation  in  the 
southern  States  of  Chiapas  and  Oaxaca.  But  farther  north 
the  mean  altitude  is  9,000  ft.  above  sea -level,  and  two  peaks, 
Popocatepetl  and  Orizaba,  rise  to  great  elevations:  the  latter 
forms  the  culminating  point  of  Mexico.  At  the  21st  parallel 
the  Cordillera  becomes  very  wide,  and  divides  itself  into  three 
ranges.  The  eastern  branch  runs  to  Saltillo  and  Monterey; 
the  western  traverses  the  States  of  Jalisco  and  Sinaloa,  and 
subsides  in  northern  Sonora;  while  the  central  ridge  extends 
through  the  States  of  Durango  and  Chihuahua,  forming  the 
water-shed  of  the  northern  table-land.  The  range  decreases 
in  elevation  going  northward.  In  these  cross- ridges  (due  to 
igneous  action),  thrown  out  from  the  longitudinal  system,  are 
many  volcanoes;  nine  exceeding  10,000  ft.  and  twenty  or 
more  rising  above  4,000  ft.  (comp.  Hits,  and  altitudes). 

The  great  plateau  {mesa)  is  about  1,500  M.  in  length,  by  530 
in  breadth,  with  a mean  height  of  6,000  ft.  above  the  sea- 
level:  it  is  known  as  La  Mesa  Central  de  Anahuac,  and  it  is 
widest  in  the  latitude  of  Mex.  City.  The  surface  is  cut  up  into 
numerous  barrancas  (ravines),  some  of  great  depth.  Two  passes 
afford  outlets  to  the  eastward;  one  at  Jalapa,  now  traversed  by 
the  Interoceanic  Rly.,  and  through  which  Cortes  built  a road 
during  the  Conquest : and  one  at  Saltillo,  at  present  utilized  by 
the  National  Rlys.  Through  this  pass  the  American  soldiers 
climbed  to  the  plateau  during  the  Mexican  War.  The  central 
plateau  is  subdivided  into  four  minor  mesas:  Toluca,  with  a 
mean  elevation  of  8,570  ft. ; Actopan , with  a mean  of  6,450  ft. ; 
Ixtla,  3,320,  and  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  7,470  ft. 

Configuration  of  the  Coast.  The  Atlantic  coast  line  is 
about  1,600  M.  long,  and  the  Pacific  (and  Gulf  of  California) 


BOUNDARIES 


cxxiii 

about  4,200.  The  eastern  coast  is  extremely  fertile.  The  most 
important  ports  are  Vera  Cruz,  Tampico,  Progreso  (in  Yuca- 
tan), Campeche,  El  Carmen,  Frontera,  Coatzacoalcos  (Isthmus 
of  Tehuantepec),  Tuxpam,  and  Matarnoros.  Vera  Cruz  ranks 
highest,  with  Tampico  next.  The  western  coast  is  fertile  and 
possesses  some  splendid  harbors.  Chief  among  them  are  Aca- 
pulco and  Guaymas ; the  latter,  according  to  Mex.  geographers, 
one  of  the  safest  harbors  on  the  globe.  Manzanillo  is  of  consid- 
erable importance,  and  Salina  Cruz,  the  Pacific  terminus  of  the 
Isthmian  Route,  is  perhaps  destined  to  become  as  celebrated 
as  Port  Said.  Pacific  coast  ports  of  minor  importance  are 
Agiabampo,  Topolobampo,  Altata,  San  Bias,  Las  Penas,  Cha- 
mela,  Zihuatanejo,  Puerto  Angel,  Tonala,  and  San  Benito.  The 
Pacific  coast  is  healthier  than  the  Atlantic.  The  country  con- 
tiguous to  both  is  low ; but  the  land  rises  gradually  toward  the  in- 
terior. The  flat  region  of  the  eastern  tierra  caliente  has  an  average 
breadth  of  65  M. : that  of  the  western  varies  from  40  to  70  M. 
Earthquakes  ( terremotos , temblor es)  are  somewhat  frequent. 

“We  are  accustomed  to  consider  Mexico  as  lying  entirely 
south  of  the  United  States,  and  as  entirely  hot  and  tropical; 
but  nearly  one  half  of  the  area  is  north  of  the  southernmost 
points  of  the  U.  S.  A.  Furthermore,  one  half  of  its  area,  even 
much  of  that  extending  into  the  tropics,  is  cool  and  temperate. 

“ Mexico  lies  at  the  meeting-place  of  two  zones,  — the  tem- 
perate and  the  torrid;  and  from  its  geographical  position, 
combined  with  its  varying  altitudes,  possesses  a greater  vari- 
ety of  soil,  surface,  and  vegetation  than  any  equal  extent  of 
contiguous  territory  in  the  world.  Basking  in  the  sunshine  of 
the  tropics,  her  head  pillowed  in  the  lap  of  the  North,  her  feet 
resting  at  the  gateway  of  the  continents,  her  snowy  bosom 
rising  to  the  clouds,  she  rests  serene  in  the  majesty  of  her 
might.  She  guards  vast  treasures  of  gold  and  silver,  emeralds 
and  opals  adorn  her  brow,  while  the  hem  of  her  royal  robe, 
dipped  in  the  seas  of  two  hemispheres,  is  embroidered  with 
pearls  and  the  riches  of  ocean. 

“ Mother  of  Western  civilization!  cradle  of  the  American 
race!  a thousand  years  have  been  gathered  into  the  sheaf  of 
time  since  her  first  cities  were  built.  When  the  Norsemen 
coasted  our  northern  shores,  she  had  towns  and  villages,  and 
white-walled  temples  and  palaces.  When  the  Pilgrims  landed 
on  Plymouth  Rock,  a hundred  years  had  already  passed  since 
the  soldiers  of  Cortes  had  battled  with  the  hosts  of  Montezuma. 
In  no  country  in  the  world  can  you  pass  so  rapidly  from  zone 
to  zone,  — from  the  blazing  shores  of  the  heated  tropics  to 
the  region  of  perpetual  winter,  from  the  land  of  the  palm  and 
vine  to  that  of  the  pine  and  lichen,  — for  in  12  hours  this  can 
be  accomplished,  and  the  traveller  may  ascend  a snow-peak 
with  the  sands  of  the  shore  still  upon  his  shoes.”  ( Travels  in 
Mexico , F.  A.  Ober.) 


CXX1V 


THE  MEXICAN  STATES 


STATES  AND  TERRITORIES  OF  THE  UNITED  MEXICAN 
STATES 


(Estados  y Territories  de  los  Estados  Unidos  M exico.no  s.) 


States  and  T. 

Abbreviations 

Area  in  sq.  kilom. 

Pop. 

1.  Aguascalientes 

Ags. 

7,644 

105,000 

2.  Campeche 

Camp. 

46,85o 

86,542 

3.  Cniapas 

Cnis. 

70,524 

360,599 

4.  Chihuahua 

Cni. 

227,488 

32  7.800 

5.  Coahuila 

Coah. 

161,550 

297,000 

6.  Coiima 

Col. 

5,587 

65,120 

7.  Durango 

Dgo. 

98.470 

370,294 

8.  Guanajuato 

Gto. 

29,458 

1,061,724 

9.  Guerrero 

Gro. 

64,756 

479,205 

10.  Hidalgo 

Hgo. 

23,101 

605,000 

11.  Jalisco 

Jai. 

82,503 

1,153.891 

12.  Mexico 

M4BX. 

23,957 

934,463 

13.  Michoacan 

Mich. 

52,261 

'931,000 

14.  Morelos 

Mor. 

7,184 

160,500 

15.  Nuevo  Leon 

N.  L. 

62,998 

400,000 

16.  Oaxaca 

Oax. 

91,664 

985,000 

17.  Puebla 

Pueb. 

31,616 

1,150,000 

18.  Queretaro 

Qro. 

9,215 

232,389 

19.  San  Luis  Potosl 

S.  L.  P. 

65,583 

600,000 

20.  Sinaloa 

Sin. 

87,231 

296.701 

21.  Sonora 

Son. 

199,244 

221,682 

22.  Tabasco 

Tab. 

28,094 

160,000 

23.  Tamaulipas 

Tam. 

84,394 

218.948 

24.  Tlaxcala 

Tlax. 

4,132 

172,315 

25.  Vera  Cruz 

V.  C.  (also  Ver.) 

75,651 

981.030 

26.  Yucatan 

Yuc. 

91,201 

314,087 

27.  Zacatecas 

Zac. 

63,386 

462.190 

28.  Territorio  de  Baja 

California 

B.  C. 

151,109 

47,624 

29  Territorio  de  Tepic 

(now  Nayarit) 

29,211 

150,098 

30.  Distrito  Federal 

D.  F. 

1,200 

850,219 

For  the  purposes  of  civil  administration  the  Mexican  Re- 
public is  divided  into  a Federal  District,  27  States  and  2 
Territories,  known  as  the  Estados  XJnidos  Mexicanos.  The 
States  are  free  and  sovereign  in  all  matters  pertaining  to  their 
internal  administration,  their  government  being  vested  in 
the  State  Government,  State  Legislature,  and  State  Judicial 
Power.  For  convenience  the  States  and  Territories  are  classi- 
fied as  follows,  according  to  their  situation  : — 

Central  States:  Federal  District,  Aguascalientes.  Du- 
rango, Guanajuato,  Hidalgo,  Mexico,  Morelos,  Puebla,  Quere- 
taro,  San  Luis  Potosf,  Tlaxcala,  and  Zacatecas,  with  an  area 
of  372,4<S0  sq.  kilometros. 

Gulf  States  : Campeche,  Tabasco,  Tamaulipas,  Vera  Cruz, 
Yucatan,  and  its  adjacent  Territorio  of  Quintana  Roo,  323,610 
sq.  kilom. 

Northern  States:  Chihuahua  (largest,  with  an  area  of 
nearly  90,000  sq.  miles),  Coahuila  (which  once  comprised 
Texas),  Nuevo  Leon,  and  Sonora,  with  658,032  sq.  kilom. 

Pacific  States:  Colima,  Chiapas,  Guerrero,  Jalisco, 
Michoacan,  Oaxaca,  Sinaloa,  wdth  the  territories  of  Baja 


GOVERNMENT 


cxxv 


(Lower)  California,  and  Tepic  (or  Nayarit);  the  combined 
area  measuring  629,037  sq.  kilom. 

These  vast  possessions  represent  the  most  highly  mineral- 
ized region  on  the  globe.  In  some  of  the  States,  three  harvests 
are  annually  secured.  There  are  52  varieties  of  mammal 
quadrupeds,  203  varieties  of  fowls,  50  kinds  of  humming-birds, 
353  species  of  birds,  77,000  (catalogued)  coleoptera,  43  classes 
of  reptiles,  13  batrachians,  and  a greater  variety  of  plant 
life  than  is  known  to  exist  in  any  other  country. 

The  present  Constitution  of  Mexico,  promulgated  Feb.  5, 
1917,  and  subsequently  amended,  declares  that  the  Mexican 
Republic  is  established  under  the  representative,  democratic, 
and  federal  form  of  government,  composed  of  states  free  and 
sovereign  in  everything  relating  to  their  internal  administra- 
tion, but  united  in  one  single  federation  in  accordance  with 
the  principles  set  forth  in  the  said  Constitution.  The  Su- 
preme Government  is  divided  into  three  coordinate  branches: 
Legislative,  Executive,  and  Judicial.  The  legislative  power 
of  the  nation  is  vested  in  a general  Congress,  consisting  of 
two  Chambers,  the  Deputies,  and  the  Senate.  The  Chamber 
of  Deputies  is  composed  of  representatives  of  the  nation 
elected  every  two  years  by  the  Mexican  citizens  and  in  the 
proportion  of  one  Deputy  for  every  40,000  inhabitants,  or 
fraction  over  20,000,  the  term  of  service  being  two  years. 
The  requisite  qualifications  are  similar  to  those  of  other 
countries.  The  Senate  consists  of  two  Senators  for  each  State 
and  the  Federal  District,  chosen  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
Deputies,  and  subject  to  certain  limitations  of  age,  etc. 

The  Congress  has  two  ordinary  sessions  annually  — the 
first,  which  may  be  extended  30  days,  beginning  on  Sept. 
16  (the  great  national  holiday)  and  ending  on  Dec.  15,  and 
the  second,  which  maybe  prorogued  for  15  days,  convening 
on  the  1st  of  April  and  adjourning  on  the  last  day  of  May. 

The  Executive  Power  is  lodged  in  a single  individual,  known 
as  the  President  ( presidente ) of  the  United  Mexican  States, 
who  is  elected  indirectly  by  electors  chosen  by  the  people. 
There  is  no  vice-presidente.  The  official  procedure  is  similar 
to  that  of  the  United  States,  excepting  that  the  president’s 
position  is  even  more  difficult,  if  such  a thing  be  possible.  All 
the  conflicting  interests  of  a widely  flung  country  of  several 
climates  and  many  different  races  — each  with  different 
aspirations  — come  to  him  for  favorable  solution  — and  in 
each  case  the  solution  must  be  agreeable  to  all! 

The  judicial  power  is  vested  in  the  Supreme  Court  of  Jus- 
tice and  the  District  and  Circuit  Courts.  The  Government  of 
the  States  is  divided  into  the  same  branches  as  the  General 
Government.  The  States  are  divided  politically,  as  a rule, 
into  districts  governed  by  a jefe  politico , or  a prefect,  who  is 


'CXXV1 


MOUNTAINS  — LAKES 


responsible  to  the  governor  — gobernador.  The  minor  divi- 
sions are  municipalidades ; the  local  authority  being  an  ayun- 
tamiento,  corresponding  to  the  town  council  in  the  U.  S.  A. 
The  main  clauses  of  the  Constitution,  'with  respect  to  the 
rights  of  men,  are  similar  to  those  of  other  advanced  coun- 
tries. Aliens  enjoy  the  civil  rights  belonging  to  Mexicans,  but 
they  can  be  expelled  (Article  33)  from  the  country  if  they 
prove  to  be  pernicious  to  the  Government. 

This  article  has  acquired  an  international  fame.  It  has  been 
applied  to  many  foreigners  who  proved  themselves  too  active 
in  Mexican  political  affairs,  not  a few  of  them  Americans;  in 
such  cases  they  are  usually  referred  to  as  having  been  “ thirty - 
threed The  LTnited  States  might  well  adopt,  and  appty,  a 
similar  article  to  alien  strikers,  propagandists,  and  other  such 
foreign  vermin. 

The  Army  ( ejercito ) is  composed  of  regular  and  auxiliary 
troops  of  the  reserve;  the  strength  of  the  former  is  fixed  by 
law  at  30,000  men,  that  of  the  reserve  at  28,000,  and  that  of 
the  second  reserve  at  150,000.  The  infantry  is  armed  with 
Mauser  rifles  of  the  pattern  of  1901,  7mm.  calibre,  and  with 
“Porfirio  Diaz”  rifles;  the  cavalry  with  carbines  of  the  same 
pattern.  Schneider  rapid-fire  mounted  guns  are  used.  The  ef- 
fective strength  of  the  army  in  time  of  war  is  given  at  3,500 
officers,  120,000  infantry,  20,000  cavalry,  and  6,000  artillery. 
At  present  the  regular  army  establishment  is  made  up  of 
sections  quartered  at  different  points  in  the  Republic. 

The  Navy  ( marina  de  guerra)  is  modest,  and  was  established 
simply  to  meet  the  requirements  of  coast  patrol  necessary  to 
a country  at  peace  with  all.  The  personnel  of  the  navy  con- 
sists of  some  150  officers  and  about  350  men. 


Mexico  is  a land  of  High  Mountains ; it  is  estimated  that 
there  are  156  mts.  of  a volcanic  character  scattered  through 
the  mt.  ranges  of  the  Repub.  The  following  are  the  highest: 


Name  Height 

Orizaba  or  Citlaltepetl  (p.  496)  18.225 

Popocatepetl  (p.  463)  17,782 

Iztaccihuatl  (p.  464)  16,060 

Xinantecatl,  or  Nevado  de  Toluca  (p.  199)  15,000 
Matlalcuevatl,  or  Malintzi  (p.  497)  14,740 

Ajusco  (p.  434)  13,612 

Nauchampatepetl  (p.  504)  13,403 

V'olcan  de  Colima  (p.  186)  12,782 

Pico  de  Tancitaro  (p.  224)  12,653 

Cerro  de  Patamban  (p.  224)  12,290 

Zempoaltepetl  (p.  541)  11,965 

Los  Llanitos  (p.  145)  11.013 

Pico  de  Quinceo  (p.  224)  10,835 

Gigante  (p.  145)  10,653 


States 
Vera  Cruz 
Mexico 

Mexico  and  Puebla 

Mexico 

Tlaxcala 

Federal  District 

Vera  Cruz 

Jalisco 

Miehoacan 

Oaxaca 

Guanajuato 

Miehoacan 

Guanajuato 


Lakes.  There  are  many  lakes  ( lagos ) in  Mexico,  and  most  of 
them  are  high  among  the  mountains  or  on  the  great  central 
plateau.  As  a rule  they  are  beautiful  sheets  of  water,  amid  at- 


GULF  OF  MEXICO 


cxxvii 


tractive  surroundings.  The  chief  lakes  are  Chapala  (described 
at  p.  152);  Patzcuaro  (p.  213);  Cuitzeo  (p.  225);  Texcoco  (in 
the  Valley  of  Mexico,  p.  244);  Zirahuen  (p.  226);  Yuriria- 
pundaro  (p.  145) ; Zipimeo  and  Tecacho  (in  Michoaean,  p. 
224);  and  the  Laguna  de  los  Caimanes  (p.  188). 

Very  few  bays  indent  the  coast.  Among  these  are  Ascen- 
sion, Espiritu  Santo , and  Chetmul,  on  the  Yucatan  Peninsula; 
Manzanillo,  on  the  Pacific;  and  Magdalena  and  others  in 
Lower  California.  The  east  coast  is  broken  by  extensive  la- 
goons ( lagunas ) like  that  of  Terminos  described  at  p.  569. 
The  great  Gulf  of  California  separates  the  peninsula  of  that 
name  from  the  main  portion  of  Mexico.  The  only  peninsulas 
are  Lower  California  and  Yucatan.  Some  islands  of  minor 
importance  lie  off  the  coasts. 

The  Mexican  River  System  is  neither  varied  nor  extens- 
ive. The  rugged  configuration  of  the  country  converts  most 
of  the  rivers  into  impetuous  torrents,  which  quickly  drain  the 
surface  of  the  table-land  and  form  innumerable  waterfalls  as 
they  plunge  downward  to  the  tierra  caliente,  on  their  way  to 
$ the-  sea.  E^ren  the  longest  rivers  are  navigable  for  but  a short 
distance.  Shallow  draught  steamboats  ply  inland  on  some  of 
the  southern  rivers  — the  Usumacinta,  the  Coatzacoalcos,  etc. 
Sand-bars  obstruct  the  mouths  of  nearly  all  the  rivers  empty- 
ing into  the  ocean,  and  over  these  bars  but  three  or  four  feet  of 
water  is  found  at  low  tide.  The  best  known  river  (1,644  M. 
long)  is  the  Rio  Grande  del  Norte,  which  forms  a part  of  the 
boundary-line  between  Mexico  and  the  United  States. 

The  Gulf  of  ( Golfo  de)  Mexico,  an  arm  of  the  Atlantic 
Ocean,  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  United  States  and  on  the 
S.  and  W.  by  Mexico.  It  is  oval  in  form:  its  greatest  length  is 
from  E.  to  W.,  about  1,000  miles;  from  N.  to  S.,  about  800  M.; 
area  about  700,000  sq.  M.  It  has  a continuous  coast-line  of 
about  3,000  M.  Its  maximum  depth  is  about  12,715  ft.,  and 
within  the  basin,  exclusive  of  the  submerged  coastal  plain,  the 
average  depth  is  about  9,000  ft.  The  outlet  of  the  Gulf  is  on 
the  E.  between  the  peninsulas  of  Yucatan  and  Florida,  a dis- 
tance of  about  400  M.  The  Yucatan  channel  opens  into  the 
Caribbean  Sea,  and  the  Florida  Strait  enters  the  Atlantic. 

The  temperature  of  the  Gulf  is  from  8°  to  9°  higher  than  in 
the  Atlantic  in  the  same  latitude.  The  temperature  at  the 
point  of  greatest  depth  is  39J°  C.  The  chief  current  is  the 
Gulf  Stream  (a  name  applied  to  it  by  Benjamin  Franklin), 
which  enters  the  Gulf  through  the  Yucatan  Channel,  circles 
the  interior,  and  passes  out  through  the  Florida  Strait.  The 
basin  off  the  Mexican  coast  sinks  rapidly  to  the  submarine 
plain,  and  a short  distance  from  the  shore  reaches  the  maxi- 
mum depth.  The  Bay  of  Campeche  is  the  largest  indenta- 
tion. The  level  of  the  Gulf  is  thought  to  be  a trifle  higher  than 


ARCHITECTURE 


cxxviii 

that  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  which  may  account  for  the  great 
velocity  of  the  stream  (from  60  to  120  miles  per  day),  one  of 
the  strongest  on  record. 

XIV.  Historical  Sketch  of  Art  in  Mexico  “before  and  after  the 
Conquest 

Architecture.1  — (l  The  architecture  that  grew  up  in  Mexico 
with  the  Spanish  Conquest  and  colonization  of  the  country 
has  qualities  that  justify  an  effort  to  make  lovers  of  art  in  the 
world  at  large  better  acquainted  than  they  have  been  with  its 
more  important  examples.  It  furnishes  the  most  extensive 
illustration  of  the  transfer  to  the  soil  of  the  New  World  of  a 
notable  phase  of  depictive  art.  It  is  by  no  means  an  over- 
statement to  say  that  in  Mexico  there  is  to  be  found  more 
architecture  of  a monumental  character  than  in  all  other  parts 
of  the  western  hemisphere.  The  reasons  for  this  are  to  be 
found  in  the  enormous  wealth  of  New  Spain,  particularly  in 
the  development  of  its  marvellous  mineral  resources;  the 
comparative  tranquillity  of  the  country  throughout  the 
nearly  three  centuries  of  Spanish  rule,  the  abundance  of* 
building  material  that  lends  itself  to  expression  in  substantial 
and  permanent  form,  and  a corresponding  scarcity  of  material 
that  encourages  slight,  crude,  and  necessarily  temporary  con- 
struction, and  the  dominance  of  ideas,  political  and  religious, 
that  naturally  found  realization  in  rich  and  impressive  shapes. 

“ The  Provincial-Mexican  work,  as  it  maybe  called,  has  its 
chief  interest  in  a sort  of  forceful  picturesqueness,  mainly  re- 
sulting from  the  heavy  masses  worked  up  out  of  a material 
like  adobe,  whose  expressive  capacity  is  necessarily  limited  to 
the  production  of  broad,  general  effects. 

“ So  extensive  was  the  architectural  activity  in  Mexico 
throughout  the  historic  periods  of  the  Spanish-Colonial  occu- 
pation, so  prolific  in  results,  so  general,  and  — for  this  contin- 
ent — so  unexampled  in  its  lavish  employment  of  the  dec- 
orative arts,  that  it  might  be  easy  for  a student  of  its  phases 
to  subject  himself  to  the  charge  of  over-enthusiasm,  of  an 
overestimate  of  its  qualities.  These  qualities  reside  largely  in 
strongly  impressive  effects,  — such  as  a monumental  domina- 
tion of  environment,  a union  with,  and  accentuation  of,  the 
fascinating  elements  of  landscape  and  climate,  inexhaustibly 
picturesque  and  enchantingly  spectacular.  Classic  in  funda- 
mental derivation,  and  possessing  markedly  Oriental  attri- 
butes, this  architecture  is  freely  romantic  in  its  development 
— often  most  waywardly  so.  In  these  traits,  of  course,  it  is 
thoroughly  Spanish;  as,  indeed,  it  is  Spanish  practically 
throughout.  But  the  foreign  flavoring  imparted  to  home-de- 

1 Spanish  Colonial  Architecture  in  Mexico , by  Sylvester  Baxter  (Boston, 
J.  B.  Millet  & Co.). 


ARCHITECTURE 


CXX1X 


rived  essentials  in  the  colonial  parts  of  an  imperial  domain 
is  customarily  distinctive ; as  in  the  present  instance. 

“ A merit  of  this  architecture,  and  a very  high  one,  is  the 
frankly  organic  character  of  the  structural  work,  freely  con- 
fessing itself  in  all  its  functions.  A closely  related  and  com- 
plementary trait,  likewise  an  acquisition  of  Spanish  archi- 
tecture from  the  Orient  through  the  Arabs,  is  the  universal 
concentration  of  ornament  at  a few  salient  points. 

“ The  contrast  between  the  plain  and  the  decorative  parts  of 
the  typical  monumental  edifices  in  Mexico  is  of  the  strongest 
description,  producing,  in  the  height  of  emphasis  thereby  at- 
tained, an  extraordinary  vividness  of  effect.  The  transition 
is  immediate,  the  demarcation  between  the  plain  and  the  dec- 
orated surfaces  being  as  abrupt  as  that  between  sea  and  shore 
— the  former,  as  a rule,  kept  absolutely  devoid  of  all  orna- 
mentation; the  latter  decorative  in  the  extreme.  The  huge 
bulk  of  the  structure  looms  above  its  surroundings  in  a 
mass  of  rude  masonry  almost  cyclopean  in  its  rough-hewn 
character,  like  a gigantic  monolith  — a great  block  of  stone 
that  seems  akin  to  a cliff  carved  by  the  elements.  At  certain 
points  on  this  mass  there  is  an  efflorescence  of  rich  ornament, 
much  as  Nature  in  places  clothes  the  rock-face  with  a luxuri- 
ance of  foliage  and  flowers. 

“The  ancient  Aztec  stone-carving  is  marked  both  by  an 
excellent  technique  in  the  handling  of  most  refractory  material 
and  by  a bold  freedom  in  design,  with  a large  sweep  in  flowing 
movement  as  a conspicuous  trait. 

“ The  earlier  structures  in  Mexico,  erected  in  the  first  genera- 
tion succeeding  the  Conquest,  had  little  architectural  char- 
acter. Utility  was  the  sole  consideration.  The  early  ecclesias- 
tical edifices  were  built  under  the  supervision  of  the  Francis- 
can friars,  who  were  the  pioneers  of  the  Church  in  New  Spain. 
These  churches  in  various  parts  of  the  country  have  a rudely 
massive  character,  with  a look  of  austere  severity,  frowningly 
sombre.  They  are  commonly  distinguished  by  battlements 
that  suggest  defensive  functions,  and  are  of  an  easily  recog- 
nizable type  that  might  be  termed  * Early  Franciscan/  A 
noteworthy  survival  of  this  work  is  the  old  Franciscan  church 
at  Cuernavaca. 

“ The  churches  of  this  primitive  period  are  characterized 
more  by  Middle-Age  styles  than  by  the  Renaissance.  A form 
of  ribbed  vaulting,  reminiscent  of  the  Gothic,  is  commonly 
employed.  The  great  church  of  San  Francisco  at  Cholula 
is  fundamentally  Gothic  in  type.  On  the  other  hand,  the  curi- 
ous Camilla  Real , or  Royal  Chapel,  also  at  Cholula,  likewise 
over  a century  later  in  date  and  built  to  accommodate  a vast 
concourse  of  Indian  worshippers,  was  suggested  by  the  Mesdjid 
al-Djdmi , the  great  mosque  of  the  Moors  at  Cordoba  (Spain) ; 
having  a similar  plan,  with  sixty-four  large  round  col- 


cxxx  ARCHITECTURE 

limns  supporting  the  numerous  little  domes  that  form  the 
roof. 

“ The  Free  Renaissance  and  its  subsequent  decadent  mani- 
festations dominated  architectural  taste  in  Spain  during  the 
periods  of  greatest  activity  in  the  fine  arts  in  Mexico,  where 
the  architecture  of  the  land  took  shape  accordingly.  This 
accounts  for  the  universal  prevalence  in  Mexico  of  a character- 
istic feature  of  Renaissance. 

“ The  Dome,  one  of  the  noblest  and  most  impressive  forms 
of  architectural  expression,  is  the  predominating  architectural 
characteristic  of  the  country.  Mexico  is  peculiarly  a land  of 
domes.  Outside  of  the  Orient,  probably  no  other  country  in 
the  world  has  so  many  domes  — domes  in  the  truest  sense  of 
the  word,  arched  of  solid  masonry.  When  nearly  every  Indian 
village  in  central  Mexico  has  its  domed  church;  when  not  a 
few  small  towns,  so  little  known  that  they  have  no  place  on 
the  general  map,  are  to  be  seen  clustering  about  a group  of 
several  domes  so  lordly  that  they  would  form  a boasted  land- 
mark in  any  of  our  large  cities,  it  will  be  seen  that  it  is  no 
exaggeration  to  say  that  domes  are  to  be  found  in  that  country 
literally  by  the  thousand. 

“ A common  name  for  the  dome,  in  Spanish,  beside  cupula 
and  cimborio,  is  la  media-naranja,  the  half-orange.  The  dome 
made  its  appearance  in  some  of  the  very  earliest  Mexican 
churches,  and  speedily  became  an  almost  universal  feature, 
appearing  to  some  extent  in  secular  architecture,  as  well  as 
religious.  While  the  hemispherical  shape  commonly  marks 
the  type,  the  lines  of  Mexican  domes  vary  greatly,  and  are 
often  distinguished  by  exquisite  delicacy  in  effect.  Differences 
in  architectural  detail,  in  ornamentation,  and  in  color  lend 
a fascinating  diversity  to  this  predominant  feature  of  the 
country.  The  earlier  domes  are  more  likely  to  be  rather  low, 
and  somewhat  depressed  in  form ; in  later  periods  a tendency 
toward  original  lines  is  manifest.  The  base  is  almost  univers- 
ally octagonal.  The  most  common  form  has  the  arch  spring- 
ing directly  from  the  level  of  the  roof,  with  a dormer  window 
in  each  section  of  the  dome.  Very  frequently  these  dormers 
are  so  treated  as  to  give  the  effect  of  a regular  base  for  the 
dome,  corresponding  to  a drum.  In  the  City  of  Mexico  this 
manner  of  t reatment  is  illustrated  in  the  dome  of  San  Hipo- 
' lito  and  that  of  San  Fernando ; and  in  the  two  lower  domes 
of  the  San  Francisco  group ; while  in  the  upper  dome  of  the 
latter  we  have  a good  instance  of  the  frank  segregation  of  the 
dormers.  It  is  not  uncommon,  however,  to  have  a genuine 
drum,  as  in  the  dome  of  La  Santisima  Trinidad  and  of  the 
Cathedral  of  Mexico.  Almost  invariably  the  domes  in  Mexico 
are  single  in  construction,  having  one  shell  and  following  the 
same  lines  within  and  without,  while  the  interior  is  lighted 
both  from  the  windows  of  the  dormers,  or  of  the  drum,  and 


ARCHITECTURE 


cxxxi 


of  the  lantern.  An  exception  to  this  rule  is  the  dome  of 
banta  Teresa  la  Antigua,  in  Mexico  City.  This  dome,  which 
has  an  interior  shell,  is  of  modern  construction,  having  been 
built  to  replace  the  one  designed  by  the  first  professor  of 
architecture  in  the  academy  of  San  Carlos,  Antonio  Velasquez. 

Another  very  general  architectural  feature  in  Mexico  is 
the  free  use  made  of  tiles,  particularly  Glazed  Tiles,  in  dec- 
orative surface  treatment.  This,  like  the  dome,  is  of  Oriental 
origin,  brought  to  Spain  by  the  Arabs  who,  in  turn,  acquired 
the  art  from  Persia,  where  it  was  carried  to  a remarkable 
degree  of  perfection.  Whether  the  art  is  of  Persian  or  Chinese 
origin  may  be  questioned.  The  covering  of  domes  and  lan- 
terns with  glazed  tiles  is  common  throughout  Mexico,  and 
in  some  locations  wall  surfaces  are  similarly  treated/  The 
rich  effect  of  color,  the  dazzling  reflections,  the  sparkle,  the 
luminous  glow  produced  by  these  tile-covered  domes  and 
towers  glittering  under  the  tropical  sun,  against  the  deep  blue 
u ^ cloudless  sky,  set  gem-like  in  a glorious  landscape,  can 
hardly  be  imagined  by  those  who  have  not  been  subjected  by 
w °*  ?c.enes  that  in  a measure  reproduce  in  the  New 

World  something  of  the  enchantment  of  the  ancient  fairy-like 
glories  of  Moslem  Spain. 

“ When  the  Renaissance  made  its  influence  felt,  the  dome  was 
almost  universally  adopted..  The  vast  revenues  of  the  Church 
m the  colony,  its  organization  modelled  upon  that  of  Spain, 
Where  it  was  more  dependent  upon  the  King  than  upon  the 
Papacy,  furnished  the  means  for  the  erection  and  decoration 
of  magnificent  temples.  Under  the  tremendous  energy  of  the 
conquering  race  fired  by  the  lust  for  wealth  and  power,  work- 
mg  hand  m hand  with  religious  zeal,  New  Spain  blossomed 
in  the  space  of  a few  short  years  into  a marvellous  kingdom, 
clouted  throughout  its  length  and  breadth  with  the  splendid 
cities  that  emerged  from  the  primitive  wilderness  or  occupied 
the  sites  of  preexistent  cultures.  And  the  vast  domain  re- 
mains a land  of  contrasts  to  this  day. 

‘ The  influence  of  the  full  Renaissance  was  dominant  in 
Spain  when  the  great  cathedrals  of  Mexico  and  Puebla  were 
begun,  in  the  latter  half  of  the  sixteenth  century.  Don  Manuel 
U.  lieviUa,  professor  of  the  history  of  art  in  the  National 
rS  °f  Fme  Arts  ? Mexico>  in  the  admirable  study  en- 

titled LI  Arte  en  Mexico  en  la  Epoca  Antigua  y durante  el 
trobierno  Virreinal,’  says  of  these  two  structures  that  ‘ they  are 
the  only  edifices  of  the  viceregal  epoch  up  to  the  arrival  of 
vronzalez  Velasquez  and  of  Tolsa  which  are  distinguished  by 
correctness,  simplicity,  and  sobriety.’ 

la  the  remaining  part  of  the  sixteenth  century  and  through- 
out the  seventeenth,  both  religious  and  civil  architecture  were 
iominated  by  the  Baroque,  with  its  capricious  proportions, 
ts  accidental  profiles,  its  heavy  and  corpulent  members,  its 


CXXX11 


ARCHITECTURE 


ragged  fronts,  its  abundant,  irregular,  and  crude  mouldings 
— but  picturesque  withal,  and,  in  Spanish  hands,  of  extraor- 
dinary character.  Among  the  eminent  examples  of  the  Ba- 
roque are  the  church  of  Santo  Domingo  in  Mexico  City,  the  first 
story  of  the  State  Palace  in  Guadalajara,  the  reredos  in  the 
chapel  of  Los  Reyes  in  the  Puebla  Cathedral,  after  designs 
especially  from  Spain  by  Juan  Martinez  Montanez  — recently 
much  injured  in  color  by  repainting  and  the  substitution  of 
■white  for  gold  in  the  groundwork,  and  the  church  of  Santo 
Domingo  in  Oaxaca  City. 

‘ 1 The  decadence  of  Spain  had  extended  its  influence  to  the 
fine  arts,  and  its  impress  was  stamped  upon  the  Colonial  archi- 
tecture. In  this  architecture  two  styles  maintained  a sort  of 
joint  dominance — -the  Baroque  and  its  peculiarly  Spanish 
outcome,  the  Churrigueresque,  in  the  second  of  which  the 
decorative  tendencies  of  the  Free  Renaissance  went  to  the 
uttermost  extreme  of  architectural  unrestraint.  Both  of  these 
styles  are  characterized  by  the  interruption  of  straight  lines, 
the  breaking  of  entablatures  and  pediments,  the  varied  curva- 
ture of  arches  and  lintels,  the  ornamentation  of  panels,  etc. 
But  in  the  Baroque  the  column  is  retained,  although  perhaps 
twisted  or  storied,  while  panels  may  remain  undecorated  and 
profiles  preserve  their  due  regularity.  In  the  Churrigueresque 
the  column  and  the  anta  are  transformed  into  pillars  and 
pilasters  replete  with  decoration,  all  panels  are  decorated, 
lines  are  infinitesimally  broken,  and  the  sculpture  becomes  an  ! 
integral  portion  of  the  structure,  serving  as  decorative  mem-  I 
bers. 

“ Among  the  best  examples  of  the  Churrigueresque,  of  which 
there  are  many  in  Mexico,  may  be  cited  the  two  facades  of  the 
Sagrario  Metropolitan  at  Mexico  City,  designed  by  Lorenzo 
Rodriquez ; the  church  of  La  Santisima  ; the  magnificent  Altar 
de  los  Reyes  in  the  Cathedral,  designed  by  the  Spanish  architect 
Geronimo  Baibas , who  came  from  Seville  expressly  for  the  work, 
having  previously  executed  the  altar  of  the  same  name  in  the 
cathedral  of  that  city;  the  old  Jesuit  Church  at  Tepozotlan,  the 
Casa  de  AlfeTiique  in  Puebla,  the  church  interiors  of  Santa  Rosa 
and  Santa  Clara  at  Queretaro,  designed  by  Eduardo  Francisco 
de  Tresguerras,  and  the  churches  of  San  Diego  and  of  San 
Cayetano  de  la  Valenciana  in  Guanajuato. 

“ Unhappily  the  extraordinary  enthusiasm  for  the  Churri- 
gueresque was  followed  early  in  the  present  century  by  what 
seems  to  have  been  an  almost  fanatical  rage  for  its  extermina- 
tion. This  movement  appears  to  have  had  its  active  origin 
with  the  celebrated  Tolsa,  who  began  to  change  over  various 
chapels  in  the  Cathedral  of  Mexico,  destroying  the  Churri- 
gueresque retablos  and  replacing  them  with  Graeco-Roman 
work.  What  the  grand  interior  of  the  Cathedral  must  have 
been  in  the  days  of  its  full  splendor  is  indicated  by  the  superb 


ARCHITECTURE 


cxxxiii 

Capilla  de  los  Reyes , and  the  various  detached  examples  of 
! Free  Renaissance,  Plateresque,  and  Churrigueresque  that  re- 
main to  impress  the  beholder  amidst  a melancholy  nakedness 
of  devastated  surfaces.  The  movement  thus  started  was 
accelerated  by  the  importation  of  various  mediocre  Italian 
architects  in  succeeding  years.  In  consequence  there  was  a 
universal  transformation  of  church  interiors  throughout  the 
land,  the  old  work  remaining  only  in  various  nooks,  here  and 
; there,  that  chanced  to  escape  the  sweep  of  the  destroying  flood, 
surviving  to  give  the  visitor  a faint  idea  of  the  splendor  with 
which  Mexico  teemed  in  the  days  when  this  really  beautiful 
i work  set  forth  the  magnificence  of  the  viceregal  regime.  In- 
teriors were  ruthlessly  stripped  of  their  superbly  gilded  wood 
carvings,  the  grand  retables  were  ripped  out  and  smashed  into 
kindling-wood,  and  fine  old  canvases  were  stacked  by  the 
cord  in  dusty  corridors.  In  their  place  against  the  naked  walls 
appeared  the  lifeless  altars  of  affectedly  classic  form,  whose 
air  of  tawdry  decorum  has  destroyed  nearly  all  the  charm  of 
the  church  interiors  of  Mexico  to-day,  except  that  which  comes 
from  general  lines  and  spacious  effects. 

Ihe  surviving  examples  of  the  Churrigueresque  are,  how- 
ever, sufficiently  numerous  to  impress  upon  the  art-loving  be- 
holder who  becomes  intimate  with  the  Mexican  manifestation 
of  the  style,  a profound  sense  of  the  excellent  qualities  that 
assert  themselves  above  its  fundamental  irregularities  and  its 
fabric  of  debased  and  perverted  forms.  It  is  in  the  interiors 
that  the  style  may  best  be  studied,  and  here  are  displayed  all 
the  resources  of  its  art.  These  altar  retables,  worked  in  wood, 
offer  a greater  richness  in  forms,  and  a greater  refinement,  than 
ire  attainable  in  the  stone  portals  of  church  exteriors ; a re- 
finement and  richness  that  may  be  well  appreciated  by  reason 
of  the  proximity  of  the  altars  in  which  the  spectator  may  stand. 

The  dominant  tones  of  the  gold/  says  Revilla . 1 the  richly 
irnamented  pilasters  that  ascend  to  the  lofty  vaulted  ceiling ; 
;he  cornices,  flowing  in  curving  and  rebounding  lines;  the 
oroken  pediments  that  develop  into  volutes;  the  sockets  and 
oedestals  adorned  by  numerous  lambrequins  ; the  panels,  tab- 
ets,  and  friezes  embroidered  with  scroll-work,  shells,  and  foli- 
ige;  the  niches  charged  with  carvings;  the  multitude  of  paint- 
ngs  of  saints  or  of  passages  in  the  life  of  the  Saviour  or  of  the 
v lrgm;  the  medallions  in  low  relief  and  the  polychrome  sculp- 
ts.0*! martyrs,  of  prophets,  of  virgins,  and  of  angels  that 
•eveal  themselves  in  the  penumbra  against  the  gold  back- 
ground of  the  retablos  toned  down  by  the  smoke  of  incense 
ind  of  candles  and  by  the  dust  of  years ; the  infinite  variety  of 
le tails  and  the  commingling  of  forms  and  colors  — the  whole 
constituting  a mysterious  and  impressive  ensemble  that,  under 
,he  contemplating  gaze  possess  the  spirit  with  surprise,  ad- 
mration,  and  mysticism,  until  the  beholder  is  penetrated  by  a 


CXXX1V 


ARCHITECTURE 


holy  awe  as  if  he  had  just  finished  reading  the  verses  in  a chap- 
ter of  the  Apocalypse.’ 

‘‘Many  a visitor  to  Mexico,”  says  Mr.  Baxter,  “can  recall ji 
few  spectacles  to  compare  with  the  effect  of  the  richly  elabo-S 
rated  fagade  of  the  Sagrario  in  the  national  capital  when: 
bathed  in  a silvery  flood  of  tropical  moonlight,  the  ornament 
revealing  itself  in  a soft  clearness  with  a sort  of  spiritual  dis- 
tinction and  mystical  splendor  out  of  the  vague  depths  of 
mysteriously  intense  obscurity. 

“Very  naturally  a style  so  unconventional  as  the  Churri- 1 
gueresque  gives  great  freedom  to  the  artist.  There  is,  there-ji 
fore,  a correspondingly  marked  individuality,  together  with  al 
wide  diversity,  in  the  character  of  design  in  the  various  repre-| 
sentative  examples  of  the  work  in  Mexico,  as  will  be  evident! 
from  a comparison  between  such  works  as  the  fagade  of  the] 
Sagrario,  La  Santisima , and  San  Francisco,  in  the  City  ofl 
Mexico;  San  Diego , in  Guanajuato;  San  Cayetano  de  la  Valen-u 
ciana,  with  its  closer  texture  in  ornamentation  and  markedtj 
infusion  of  the  Arabesque;  and  finally  largeness  of  conceptionj 
and  vigorous  freedom  of  the  work  in  the  resplendent  retablesl 
by  Tresguerras  in  the  churches  of  Santa  Rosa  and  Santa  Clara  J 
in  Queretaro.  Moreover,  with  all  its  florid  exuberance,  its  j 
almost  wanton  capriciousness,  the  Churrigueresque  in  its  best! 
moments  achieves  the  full  dignity  of  its  exceeding  magni-l 
licence. 

“The  Churrigueresque  altars  are  wonderfully  intricate  with  \ 
excellent  carvings,  bold  and  strong,  or  clear  and  delicate,  asl 
the  case  may  require.  The  wood  is  usually  covered  with  a thin  i 
coat  of  plaster  upon  which  is  laid  the  gilding;  heavy  leaf,  or  I 
rather  almost  thin  plate,  now  turned  by  time  to  a rich  ‘blacky 
gold.’  In  the  case  of  ungilded  work,  one  frequently  finds  that! 
the  wood  has  not  been  treated  in  anyway.  Examples  of  this  are  i 
the  benches  in  the  church  of  La  Cornpama  at  Guanajuato  and  I 
one  of  the  confessionals  in  the  Cathedral  of  Mexico,  both  ini 
teak.  Many  of  the  chapel  gratings,  railings,  and  window  guards  j 
are  of  wood,  frequently  painted  green  in  simulation  of  bronze,  j 
but  more  often  gilded,  with  figures  of  saints  and  angels  in  j 
colors,  diapered  garments,  and  shaded  flesh. 

“Another  purely  Spanish  style,  the  Mudejar, — the  style)  j 
developed  by  the  Christianized  Moors,  — has  made  its  influ-H 
ence  evident  in  much  of  the  architecture  of  Mexico,  particu-j : 
larly  in  the  polychrome  tile-work  of  Puebla.  The  finest  secu*  ] 
lar  example  of  Mudejar  (or  Moorish-Christian)  influence  is  the  i 
celebrated  Casa  de  los  Azidejos,  the  House  of  Tiles,  a choice,  I 
sehorial  mansion  in  the  City  of  Mexico.  This  style  is  alsc 
strongly  manifest  in  the  notable  Capilla  del  Pocito,  the  Chape 
of  the  Sacred  Well,  at  Guadalupe.  The  Mudejar  is  character- 
ized by  Arabic  decorative  motives,  perhaps  more  or  less  mod 
ified  by  European  influences,  lavishly  applied  to  work  in  whiclj 


ARCHITECTURE 


cxxxv 


the  fundamental  form  is  more  distinctively  European.  As  in 
Spain  itself,  so  in  the  architecture  of  Mexico,  these  Spanish 
styles  are  so  often  blended  with  each  other  that  it  is  difficult 
to  tell  which  is  dominant. 

“The  impression  of  exceedingly  massive  solidity  made  by 
the  buildings  of  Mexico  in  the  earliest  days  of  the  Spanish 
dominion  has  been  abiding.  It  has  been  stated  that  the  Span- 
iards are  second  only  to  the  Romans  as  constructors.  Senor 
Revilla  says  that  if,  at  first  thought,  the  assertion  might  seem 
exaggerated,  its  verisimilitude  would  be  conceded  on  contem- 
plating the  fabrics  left  in  New  Spain;  ‘Houses  and  palaces, 
castles  and  temples,  bridges,  fountains  and  aqueducts;  all 
solid,  robust,  and  grandiose  works.’ 

“Such  work  as  the  remains  of  the  superb  choir  of  San  Agus- 
tin  (p.  361)  in  Mexico  City  indicate  that  a great  deal  of  good 
decorating  of  the  kind  was  in  existence  before  the  spoliation  of 
the  churches  and  convents  by  civil  war,  or  their  mutilation 
by  the  even  worse  form  of  vandalism  wrought  by  the  itching 
of  ecclesiastical  authorities  for  something  brand-new,  clean- 
scrubbed,  and  spruced-up,  and  the  consequent  sacrifice  of  in- 
valuably precious  antiquities  — a process  that  is  still  working 
untold  mischief. 

“Of  the  Church  Interiors  in  general  it  may  be  said:  the 
ceilings  — except  in  some  of  the  very  earliest  work  — are 
almost  invariably  vaulted.  The  vault  is  often  of  large,  soft 
bright-red  brick.  But  very  frequently  stone  is  used  through- 
out. The  stone  is  often  very  small,  and  the  cement  is  usually 
so  exceedingly  good  as  to  bind  the  whole  into  practically  a 
monolithic  mass.  This  is  true  of  walls  and  domes  as  well. 
The  vaulting  is  almost  invariably  covered  with  plaster,  either 
decorated  or  left  plain.  The  prevailing  color  is  usually  white, 
and,  in  older  decorations,  there  are  bands  and  centre-pieces, 
for  the  most  part  very  pleasant  in  effect;  dull  reds,  blues, 
and  yellows,  together  with  an  abundance  of  black  in  the  way 
of  outlining. 

“The  fresco  painting,  even  of  the  best  period,  is  apt  to  be 
bad;  though  in  certain  cases,  as  at  Ixtacalco,  it  is  charming, 
because  of  a certain  naive  striving.  Much  excellent  fresco 
painting  has  been  ruined  by  the  humidity  of  the  walls,  by 
blistering,  and  by  cracks  caused  usually  by  earthquakes.  In 
the  older  decorations  the  arches  and  piers  carry  down  the  fres- 
coing of  the  ceiling  with  gold  — often  conventionally  repre- 
sented in  chromes  shaded  with  black.  The  interior  decorations 
in  many  of  the  Mexican  churches  are  undergoing  almost  con- 
stant change. 

“The  bases  are  practically  always  of  stone,  usually  very 
pure  in  style  — either  Tuscan  or  Attic.  The  floors  in  the  most 
important  structures  are  commonly  of  stone,  and  sometimes 
of  marble.  But  frequently,  even  where  least  expected,  as  in 


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ARCHITECTURE 


Carmen  at  Celaya,  San  Francisco  at  Cuernavaca,  and  at  Taxco, 
they  are  of  wood.  Commonly,  however,  they  are  of  large  brick, 
similar  to  that  used  in  the  vaulting,  or  of  large  red  tiles,  and, 
not  infrequently,  of  a combination  of  wood  and  brick.  The 
brick  is  usually  laid  in  herringbone  pattern,  though  frequently 
different  designs,  and  also  many  patched  places,  slabs,  etc., 
occur  to  break  the  regularity. 

“ Really  good  Chancels  are  rare  in  Mexico.  But  few  of  the 
good  old  fittings  are  left,  all  having  been  destroyed  to  make 
room  for  the  so-called  ‘ classic  ’ introduced  by  the  Italians 
at  the  beginning  of  the  19th  century.  A few  churches,  as  at 
Tepozotlan,  Taxco , Ocotlan,  and  V alenciana,  still  possess  at  the 
high  altar  their  original  gilded  Churrigueresque  retablos.  The 
ceilings  and  walls  are  usually  decorated  and  painted  — either 
good,  bad,  or  indifferent;  but  far  more  often  with  painted  col- 
umns, entablatures,  garlands,  and  panelled  arches  in  per- 
spective, cold  and  gray  in  tone,  and  well  done. 

“The  iron-work  is  usually  simple  in  pattern,  but  excellent 
in  execution ; notably  the  w’ork  designed  by  T resguerras  at 
Queretaro,  where,  in  the  case  of  Santa  Clara,  it  is  partially 
gilded  to  harmonize  with  the  gorgeous  Churrigueresque  wood- 
carving from  which  it  projects. 

“ Rather  infrequently  one  finds  inlay,  as  at  Queretaro, 
where  it  is  or  was  a local  specialty  of  manufacture;  or  at 
Puebla  in  the  marvellous  (cathedral)  choir,  which  in  work- 
manship bears  a strong  likeness  to  Dutch  marquetry. 

“The  vestibules  are  often  formed  by  strangely  and  gro- 
tesquely panelled  inside  ‘storm-doors,’  sometimes  left  unfin- 
ished in  every  way,  trusting  to  the  color  of  the  mahogany, 
walnut,  oak,  or  teak,  of  which  they  are  constructed,  for  their 
effect.  This  also  applies  to  the  confessionals,  and  not  infre- 
quently to  the  outer  doors,  which  are  apt  to  be  ponderous 
wood  affairs,  deeply  carved,  and  swung  on  huge  wood  or  iron 
bolts  set  in  sockets  above  and  below. 

“The  glass  windows  ( vidrieras ) are  of  European  and  Mexi- 
can origin,  and  are  not  noteworthy.  The  chandeliers  are  com- 
monly gilded,  with  glass  pendants.  Formerly  many  churches  j 
possessed  beautiful  silver  candelabra,  which  were  taken  to 
swell  the  war  chest  of  certain  belligerent  generals. 

“In  the  Baroque  style  as  practised  in  New  Spain  the  distribu- 
tion of  sculpture  follows  a conventional  system.  In  the  facade 
the  ^reat  entrance  is  usually  flanked  by  one  or  a pair  of  statues 
on  either  side,  placed  in  niches  or  standing  against  the  panels  | 
between  columns  or  pilasters.  In  the  second,  and  perhaps  the  j 
third  story,  the  same  arrangement  maybe  repeated,  a great  low  I 
relief  that  represents  leading  events  in  the  life  of  the  saint  in  i 
whose  honor  the  church  was  erected  often  serving  as  the  central  I 
feature.  On  the  side  portals  a similar  system  is  observed. 

“In  the  Churrigueresque  exteriors  the  arrangement  is  much 


PAINTING 


CXXXVll 


less  conventional : besides  the  principal  statues  and  low-relief 
panels,  there  is  a lavish  use  of  minor  figures,  groups,  cherubs, 
heads,  medallions,  etc. , like  fruit  and  flowers  with  foliage,  as  such 
details  show  amidst  the  luxuriant  mass  of  ornamental  forms. 

“In  the  17th  century  sculpture  began  to  be  extensively 
employed  in  the  adornment  of  the  richly  decorated  church 
facades.  Some  beautiful  examples  of  this  work  may  be  seen 
in  the  stone  relief  over  the' portal  of  the  Biblioteca  National, 
at  Mexico  City,  the  sculpture  on  the  facade  of  the  cathedral 
at  Oaxaca  City  and  the  medallions  in  high  relief  that  flank 
the  portal  of  the  Alhondiga  at  Puebla  — works  good  in  detail, 
well-proportioned,  and  individual  in  feature.” 

The  Churrigueresque  style,  after  the  architect  Jose  Churriguera,  who 
was  born  in  Salamanca,  Spain,  about  1660  and  died  in  1725,  is  known  in 
Spain  by  that  name,  but  in  Italy  it  was  called  the  Borromenisco.  It  was 
imported  into  the  Iberian  Peninsula  during  a period  of  architectural 
decay,  where  it  was  “improved”  upon  by  Churriguera  until  it  reached 
an  extravagant  point,  lasting  during  the  17th  and  part  of  the  18th 
centuries.  Coincident  with  its  appearance  came  the  ecclesiastical  appa- 
ratus for  moving  the  head,  the  eyes,  and  the  mouth;  the  wooden  dolls 
with  real  hair  and  real  dresses,  and  much  of  the  gaudy  church  furniture 
employed  in  the  most  theatrical  ceremonials.  In  their  extravagant  adop- 
tion of  it  the  zealous  ecclesiastics  both  in  Spain  and  Mexico  destroyed  or 
covered  over  many  of  the  classic  altar-pieces  of  earlier  times,  banishing 
splendid  examples  of  the  plastic  art  for  the  coarse  materialism  which  the 
“decorative delirium  of  the  Churrigueresque  style”  was  able  to  produce. 
With  the  passing  of  the  craze  in  Mexico  many  of  the  altars  were  sold  to 
dealers  in  antiques  or  were  relegated  to  church  storerooms. 

Churriguera  s name  fell  into  disrepute  soon  after  his  death.  Writers 
vie  with  each  other  in  anathematizing  his  style;  Richard  Ford  called  him 
“the  heresiarch  of  bad  taste,  and  whose  name  is  synonymous  with  ab- 
surdity,” while  Cean Bermudez i said,  “He profaned  with  his  architectural 
style  the  decorum  and  sobriety  of  the  temples.” 

Painting.  The  artistic  cravings  of  the  Nahuas , the  Mayas , 
and  other  early  inhabitants  of  Mexico  found  expression  in 
mural  inscriptions,  calculiform  characters  on  altars,  monoliths, 
and  temple  walls;  cartouches,  paintings  on  pottery,  robes, 
stones,  and  the  fibrous  leaves  of  the  maguey  (p.  lxxxi),  and  in 
glyphs  on  stone,  hard  wood,  jadeite,  obsidian,  and  whatnot. 
The  southern  tribes  were  the  most  skilful  and  the  most  ad- 
vanced. To  the  Indian  mind  pictorial  art  achieved  its  highest 
expression  in  the  codices,  or  codexes,  illuminated  documents 
made  of  fibre-cloth  and  spoken  of  as  the  American  papyrus. 

Though  now  so  rare  as  to  be  immensely  valuable,  these 
cddices  were  of  the  crudest  sort.  The  human  face  is  sometimes 
indicated  merely  by  calligraphic  lines,  and  in  some  of  the  Aztec 
codices  the  human  form  is  scarcely  recognizable.  War,  the 
chase,  peregrinations,  and  other  tribal  epochs  and  happenings 
were  generally  represented ; the  colors  were  usually  sombre  and 
monotonous,  and  the  pictures  lacked  perspective  and  expres- 
sion. There  was  little  inventive  faculty,  a narrow  range  of  sub- 


1 Diccionario  Historico  de  los  mas  ilustres  Profesores  de  las  Bellas 
Artes  en  Espaha. 


PAINTING 


cxxxviii 


jects,  an  absence  of  technique  in  the  art  motives  and  a notably 
unskilful  handling  of  the  themes  to  be  represented.  But  few 
of  these  ancient  codexes  exist  outside  of  museums,  and  those 
in  the  Museo  National  de  Mexico . at  the  Mex.  capital,  will 
prove  of  interest  to  those  fond  of  antiquarian  research.  A list 
of  most  of  the  authentic  codices  is  given  below: 


MEXICAN  AND  MAYA  CODICES.  THEIR  LOCATIONS  AND  PUBLISHERS. 


Names.  Location. 


Berlin Royal  Library 

Baranda Muse©  Naeional  de  Mexico. 

Bodleian Facsimile  in  Bodleian  Li- 

! brary.  Oxford. 

Bologna Library  of  Scientific  Insti- 

tute.' 

Borbonicus Palais  Bourbon.  Paris 

Borgia College  of  the  Propaganda. 

Rome 

Boturini Boturini  Collection 

Campos San  Juan  de  Cuauhtlan- 

j tzinco.  Puebla. 

Colombino Museo  Naeional  de  Mexico. 

Cospianus 

Cortesiaaus  (Mayan) Royal  Museum,  Madrid.. . . 

Deliesa T Museo  Naeional  de  Mexico. 

Del  Rios  (3738) Vatican  Library 

Dresden  (Mayan) Royal  Library.  Dresden 

Fejervary Possession  of  M.  F.,  Hungary 

F ernan  dez  Leal M exico 

Lienzo  de  Tlaxcala Museo  Naeional  de  Mexico. 

Mendoza Bodleiau  Library,  Oxford  .. 

N uttall  i British  Museum. 


(.Mayan) i 

Porfino  Diaz Museo  Naeional  de  Mexico. 

Ramirez 

Telleriano  Remensis National  Library,  Paris 

Relievo  de  Chiapas Museo  Naeional  de  Mexico. 

T roano  ( Mayan ) Madrid 

Vatieanus . .' Vatican  Library,  Rome 

Vienna Imperial  Library 


Published  in  — 


Kingsborough,  ii. 

Chavero.  1892. 
Kingsborough,  i,  ii. 

Kingsborough,  ii;  Due  de 
Loubat. 

Due  de  Loubat. 
Kingsborough,  iii,  66;  Due 
de  Loubat 
Kingsborough,  i. 

Starr,  li>9S. 


Antigiiedades  Mexicanas. 

Due  de  Loubat. 

Madrid. 

Antigiiedades  Mexicanas. 

Due  de  Loubat. 

Kingsborough,  iii ; Forste- 
mann,  1880. 

Kingsborough,  iii. 

Pen  all  el. 

Antigiiedades  Mexicanas. 

Kingsborough,  i,  v,  vi. 

Peabodv  Museum  of  Har- 
vard University. 

Archives  Paleographiques, 
Paris,  1860,  i. 

Antigiiedades  Mexicanas. 

Kingsborough,  i,  v,  vi:  Due 
de  Loubat. 

Antigiiedades  Mexicanas. 

Brasseur,  1S69;  Thomas.  1SS2. 

Kingsborough,  ii,  iii,  v,  vi; 
Due  de  Loubat. 

Kingsborough,  ii. 


“In  the  preparation  of  dyes  and  paints,  both  mineral,  ani- 
mal, and  vegetable  colors  were  employed,  the  latter  extracted 
from  woods,  barks,  leaves,  flowers,  and  fruits.  In  the  art  of 
dyeing,  the  Aztecs  probably  excelled  the  Europeans,  and  many 
of  their  dyes  have  since  the  Conquest  been  introduced  through- 
out the  world.  Chief  among  these  was  the  cochineal  (nochiztli) , 
an  insect  fed  by  the  Nahuas  on  the  leaves  of  the  nopal,  from 
which  they  obtained  beautiful  and  permanent  red  and  purple 
colors  for  their  cotton  and  other  fabrics.  The  flower  of  the 
matlalxihuitl  supplied  blue  shades;  indigo  was  the  sediment  of 
water  in  which  branches  of  the  xiuhquilipitzahuac  had  been 
soaked;  seeds  of  the  achiotl  boiled  in  water  yielded  a red; 
ochre,  or  tecozahuitl,  furnished  yellow,  as  did  also  the  plant 


1 About  25  copies  of  this  codex  were  made  some  years  ago  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  Peabody  Museum.  In  addition  to  the  above  codices,  others 
are,  from  time  to  time,  exhumed  from  Mexican  Indian  tombs.  They  usu- 
ally find  their  way  to  the  National  Museum,  or  to  private  collections. 


PAINTING 


CXXX1X 


xochipalli  ; the  latter  being  changed  to  orange  by  the  use  of 
nitre;  other  shades  were  produced  by  the  use  of  alum;  the 
stones  chimaltizatl  and  tizatlalli  being  calcined,  produced  some- 
thing like  Spanish  white ; black  was  obtained  from  a mineral, 
tlaliac,  or  from  the  soot  of  a pine  called  ocotl.  In  mixing  paints 
they  used  chian- oil,  or  sometimes  the  glutinous  juice  of  the 
tzauhtli.  The  numerous  dye-woods  of  the  tierra  caliente,  now 
one  of  the  chief  exports  from  that  region,  were  all  employed 
by  the  native  dyers.  It  is  probable  that  many  of  the  secrets  of 
this  branch  of  Nahua  art  were  never  learned  by  the  Spaniards. 

“ The  Nahua  1 paintings  showed  no  great  artistic  merit,  being 
chiefly  noticeable  for  the  excellence  of  the  colors.  It  is  not 
known  that  the  Nahuas  ever  attempted  to  paint  natural  scene- 
ry, except  that  they  prepared  maps  of  the  sections  of  their 
territory  on  which  they  rudely  represented  the  mountains, 
rivers,  and  forests,  indicating  the  lands  of  different  owners  or 
lords  by  the  use  of  different  colors.  Very  little  is  known  of  or- 
namental painting  on  the  walls  of  private  dwellings,  but  that 
on  the  temples  naturally  partook  to  a great  extent  of  a hiero- 
glyphic character/’  (Bancroft.) 

Painting  was  first  taught  in  New  Spain  by  Europeans,  who 
established  (in  1521)  a clerical  school  under  the  supervision 
of  the  Franciscan  Friar  Pedro  de  Gante,  aided  by  Rodrigo  de 
Cifuentes  (p.  cxlv),  who  was  the  first  Spanish  painter  to  follow 
Hernan  Cortes  to  the  New  World.  The  earliest  paintings  the 
traveller  is  likely  to  find  in  Mexico  are  feeble  imitations  of  the 
early  productions  of  the  Flemish  and  Spanish  schools;  as  a 
rule,  they  lack  the  delicacy  of  color,  the  grace  of  composition, 
the  excellent  workmanship,  and  the  charm  of  subject  charac- 
teristic of  the  better  productions  of  the  cis-Atlantic  School. 
The  insipid,  ashy  coloring  of  some  of  them  is  perhaps  due 
both  to  the  unskilful  mixing  of  colors  and  to  the  baleful  chem- 
ical action  of  the  sunlight  at  a high  elevation,  during  several 
centuries.  Many  of  the  paints  in  use  in  the  16th  century  were 
not  “light-proof,”  and  not  a few  of  the  first  Mexican  paintings 
have  faded  beyond  recognition.  Certain  of  the  faulty  copper- 
plate paintings  done  just  after  the  Conquest  had  to  be  covered 
with  a composition  to  protect  them.  An  occasional  specimen 
of  this  old  work  is  sometimes  to  be  found  in  the  antique  shops 
of  the  capital,  but  its  only  merit  is  its  age,  for  much  of  the 
later  work  is  more  virile  and  much  better  in  color.  At  this 
period  the  Mexican  taste  was  still  unformed  by  a native 
school,  and  as  it  was  also  uninfluenced  by  the  great  painters 
— Cabrera , Ibarra , the  brothers  Juarez , and  the  admira- 
ble Tresguerras  — it  reflected  strongly  that  of  the  mother 
country. 

During  the  15th  century  the  churches  in  Spain  were  lav- 


1 A few  can  be  studied  in  the  form  of  codexes  in  the  National  Museum. 


cxl 


PAINTING 


ishly  adorned  with  paintings  — chiefly  of  the  Flemish  School,1 
brought  thence  by  traders  or  by  the  painters  themselves  — 
and  with  richly  painted  retablos  and  coros.  From  this  cir- 
cumstance, many  of  the  ecclesiastics  who  followed  in  the 
wake  of  the  Great  Conqueror  reached  the  New  World  with 
an  inherited  love  for  pictures  and  gorgeous  church  decora- 
tions, and  when  they  found  themselves  rich  and  powerful, 
they  devoted  vast  sums  to  the  purchase  of  art-works  to  dec- 
orate newly  erected  cathedrals,  chapels,  and  sacristies.  “The 
Church”  (says  Mr.  Baxter)  “soon  became  the  great  patron  of 
art  in  Mexico.  The  wonderful  mines  had  filled  the  country 
with  riches,  and  the  Church,  in  the  enjoyment  of  its  decimo  — 
its  apportionment  of  a tenth  part  of  the  product  of  precious 
minerals  — revelled  in  wealth  and  employed  it  in  most  lux- 
urious adornments.”  From  1525  and  onward,  temples  were 
everywhere  rising  under  the  supervision  of  zealous  friars,  and 
there  sprang  up  a steady  demand  for  pictures  to  adorn  them. 
At  first,  pictures  of  the  early  Flemish  School  were  most  in  de-  i 
mand  — as  they  were  indeed  also  in  Spain  — and  not  a few  of 
the  best  productions  of  the  Netherlandish  masters  found  their  > 
way  to  the  new  Crown  colonies.  As  time  went  on,  the  demand  < 
showed  an  enormous  increase.  As  early  as  1550,  certain  of  the 
Mexican  churches  — particularly  those  located  in  the  rich 
mining-camps  — became  possessed  of  vast  wealth;  some  of 
it  deftly  extracted  by  the  shrewd  friars  from  the  credulous 
natives,  some  of  it  willed  to  the  Church  by  fortunate  speculat- 
ors or  miners,  and  some  openly  collected  by  the  great  ecclesi- 
astical monopoly,  then  coming  into  almost  unexampled  power. 

Toward  the  close  of  the  century,  the  Mexican  taste  under- 
went a slight  change.  In  1584  Felipe  II  undertook  the  decora- 
tion of  the  Escorial,  and  intrusted  almost  the  whole  work  to 
Italians,  with  the  result  that  the  Venetian  style  was  every- 
where apparent  . During  the  years  that  followed,  the  Mexican  i 
demand  was  for  Italian  paintings,  and  more  than  one  master- 
piece of  Titian,  Paolo  Veronese,  and  Tintoretto  found  its  way 
hither.  Europe  was  ransacked  for  art-treasures  to  satisfy  the 
ecclesiastical  ambition,  and  rich  collections  comprising  the  best 
examples  of  the  Flemish,  Italian,  and  Spanish  Schools  wTere 
soon  features  of  the  rude  mining-camps  and  of  the  palacios  of  | 
“silver  kings”  of  the  New  World.  The  most  highly  esteemed 
painters  in  Mexico  were  those  who  could  copy  successfully 
the  great  masters  of  the  Italian  School.  In  time,  Francisco  jj 
Herrera  (1576-1656),  regarded  by  Spaniards  as  the  originator 
of  the  national  style;  Jusepe  Ribera  (1588-1656),  the  admira* 
ble  painter  of  Concepciones  and  Crucifixiones;  Francisco  Zur- 
bardn  (1598-1661),  the  incomparable  painter  of  monks  and 
the  various  ranks  of  the  brothers  of  the  tonsure;  and,  finally.  ' 

1 Many  picture?  by  masters  of  the  Flemish  School  found  their  way  to  : 
Mexico  when  the  Low  Countries  were  under  Spanish  dominion. 


PAINTING 


cxli 


Bartolome  Esteben  Murillo  (1617-1682),  the  greatest  of  all 
painters  of  Madonnas , rose  to  popularity,  and  their  pictures 
were  almost  as  numerous  in  Mexico  as  they  were  in  Spain. 
Murillo  in  particular,  with  his  dainty  A ndalusian  santas , came 
nearest  of  all  to  the  Mexican  heart,  and  so  steady  was  the 
Mexican  demand  for  his  work  that  special  envoys,  with  a 
whole  mine  in  bonanza  at  their  backs,  were  sent  to  Spain  to 
purchase  his  matchless  productions  for  New  World  churches. 

This  steady  demand  for  paintings  spurred  the  native  crafts- 
men to  sustained  effort,  and  the  art  of  painting  developed  to 
such  a point  that  preliminary  steps  were  taken  toward  the 
founding  of  a Mexican  School,  at  Mexico  City.  Vice-regal 
interference,  however,  soon  checked  the  development  of  native 
talent,  and  history  contains  no  record  of  Mexican  painters  of 
note  of  the  16th  century. 

The  rise  of  Mexican  Art  dates  from  the  middle  of  the 
18th  century.  The  establishment  of  the  Academia  de  los  Nobles 
Artes  de  San  Carlos  de  la  Nueva  Espana  in  1778  exercised 
a great  influence  on  the  development  of  art,  especially  in 
the  City  of  Mexico.  The  capital  had  absorbed  nearly  all  the 
talent  of  the  country,  and  quite  a group  of  skilful  painters 
were  then  at  work  there.  Miguel  Cabrera , Jose  Ibarra , Cristo- 
bal de  Villalpando , the  great  Boltazar  de  Echave  ( el  Viejo), 
Sebastian  Arteaga , and  the  splendid  Juarez  brothers  had  al- 
ready left  their  impress  on  the  national  art,  and  its  star  of 
achievement  rose  toward  the  zenith.  At  this  period  Mexico 
perhaps  possessed  more  gems  from  the  European  schools  than 
any  other  country.  Added  to  these  were  the  splendid  produc- 
tions of  the  native  artists,  and  of  the  great  painters  who  had 
deserted  the  mother  country  for  the  freer  life  and  greater 
wealth  of  the  Crown  colonies.  It  is  perhaps  not  too  much  to 
say  that  every  cathedral  possessed  a masterpiece,  and  the 
sacristies  of  parochial  churches  contained  treasures  that 
would  grace  any  national  collection  of  the  Old  World. 

During  the  unhappy  period  which  followed  the  faint,  but 
far-reaching,  cry  for  independence  (1810-1821),  collections 
became  scattered ; sacristies  were  looted  to  provide  funds  for 
the  revolutionists;  financial  ruin  threatened  many  collectors, 
and  scores  of  noted  pictures  took  the  backward  course  and 
found  their  way  again  to  European  museums  and  art  collec- 
tions. Almost  priceless  gems  of  the  great  masters  were  sold  to 
native  or  foreigner  alike,  for  what  they  would  bring.  The  revo - 
luciondrios  cared  not  whether  the  pictures  were  exported  or 
destroyed,  so  long  as  the  proceeds  of  their  sale  favored  their 
political  career.  The  magnificent  private  collections  for  which 
Mexico  was  noted  were  soon  scattered  forever. 

To  carry  on  his  disastrous  war  with  the  United  States,  Gen- 
eral Antonio  Lopez  de  Santa  Anna  rifled  many  a church  and 
chapel  of  their  treasures,  to  procure  funds  to  swell  his  de- 


cxJii 


PAINTING 


pleted  war-chest.  Rafael  Lucio,  writing  in  1864  (Resen a His - 
Ulrica  de  la  Pintura  Mexicana  en  los  Siglos  XVII  y XVIII, 
published  at  Mexico  City),  laments  the  expatriation  of  so  many 
valuable  pictures.  “During  the  last  three  years,”  he  says,  “I 
have  seen  many  hundreds  of  pictures  exported;  some  of  them 
Mexican,  of  such  excellent  workmanship  as  to  deceive  the  con- 
noisseur, who  thought  them  by  European  masters.” 

The  French  marauders  of  the  lesser  Napoleon,  steeped  in 
the  history  of  the  questionable  exploits  of  La  Houssaye  (a 
relico-maniac)  in  the  Spanish  Peninsula,  swept  Mexico  clean 
(1867)  of  every  picture  they  could  lay  their  hands  upon. 
When  unable  to  smuggle  their  booty  out  of  the  country,  they 
destroyed  the  paintings,  as  in  the  case  of  the  Santo  Domingo 
Convent  at  Oaxaca  City,  for  the  sake  of  the  canvas  only, 
soaking  them  in  water  and  beating  the  paint  off  against  the 
stones.  For  years  the  beautiful  Assumption  of  the  Virgin 
(Murillo)  at  Guadalajara  was  hidden  in  the  cathedral  'walls 
to  preserve  it  from  their  repeated  attempts  to  gain  possession 
of  it.  It  is  for  the  above  reasons  that  the  Mexican  School 
is  not  fully  represented  in  any  public  or  private  collection 
in  the  Republic.  Mexico  has  always  been  prodigal  of  her 
great  riches;  hers  has  been  a generosity  almost  unparalleled. 
To  the  foreigner  she  has  given  with  an  open  hand  vast  railway 
concessions  and  landed  estates,  and  the  wealth  of  her  fabu- 
lously rich  mines.  Many  a private  art  collection  abroad  has 
been  enriched  by  masterpieces  wdiich  should  have  remained  in 
the  country,  but  which  were  nevertheless  taken  from  the 
churches  and  convents  of  New  Spain.  Not  wholly  untrue  is 
the  Mexican  proverb,  “Mexico  is  the  mother  of  foreigners  and 
the  mother-in-law  of  Mexicans.” 

But  all  the  pictures  were  not  exported,  as  is  proved  by  the 
two  thousand  or  more  which  now  repose  in  the  San  Carlos 
. \ cndemy  at  Mexico  City.  Some  of  these  were  removed  hither 
from  the  Convento  de  la  Enearnacion,  where  they  were  grouped 
and  stored  after  the  Reform  Law  edict.  Prior  to  the  passage 
of  these  laws,  which  aimed  at  the  secularization  and  national- 
ization of  church  and  conventual  estates,  certain  churches 
possessed  a fortune  in  pictures.  Some  beautiful  and  almost 
priceless  examples  of  the  best  native  mural  work  perished 
with  the  destruction  of  the  Profesa  Convent  (M.  C.),  and  the 
old  Convento  de  San  Francisco  (M.  C.).  Some  of  the  church 
corporations  were  able  to  cling  to  their  most  cherished  posses- 
sions — notably  the  Cathedral  at  Guadalajara,  and  the  Parish 
Church  of  Tzintzuntzan.  : < 

To-day  Mexico  possesses  but  few  private  collections  of  pic- 
tures, and  there  is  a dearth  of  noteworthy  public  galleries. 
That  of  the  San  Carlos  Academy  is  the  most  complete.  During; 
the  troublous  revolutionary  times  there  was  usually  to  be 
found  in  the  larger  cities  some  art  lover  wdio  devoted  his 


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cxliii 


money  and  time  to  preserving  the  national  treasures,  and  the 
National  Academy  collection  owes  many  of  its  most  prized 
works  to  those  patriots  who  collected  and  preserved  them,  to 
present  them  later  to  the  Central  Government.  The  public 
collections  in  the  provincial  towns  are  usually  beneath  notice, 
and  the  few  important  private  galleries  that  remain  are  usu- 
ally inaccessible  to  the  traveller.  The  towns  and  churches 
which  contain  meritorious  pictures  are  mentioned  under  the 
proper  headings  in  the  Handbook.  It  is  only  recently  that 
connoisseurs  in  general  have  awakened  to  the  richness  of  the 
Mexican  field,  and  the  present  demand  for  pictures  (and  simi- 
lar art  objects)  is  so  keen  that  collections  are  apt  to  change 
ownership  and  location,  thus  rendering  it  impossible  to  give 
accurate  information  regarding  them.  Two  magnificent  col- 
lections, for  which  the  city  of  Puebla  was  long  known  to  art- 
ists, changed  hands  not  long  since;  the  fine  Cabrera  Collection 
going  to  a celebrated  antique  shop  at  Mex.  City,  and  that  of 
Don  Alejandro  Ruiz  Olavarrieta  to  the  Government:  the  latter 
collection  is  now  in  the  Academia  Nacional  de  Bellas  Artes. 

The  lover  of  small  painted  gems  will  often  experience  a 
sudden,  quiet  joy  from  the  quaint  old  medallion-like  pictures 
that  peer  down  at  him  from  the  gorgeously  gilded  Churri - 
gueresque  altars  and  reredos  in  the  cathedrals  and  the  older 
churches.  In  the  ancient  times  when  the  ecclesiastical  world 
went  wild  over  the  mazy  and  dazzling  productions  of  Churri- 
guera, it  was  not  an  uncommon  proceeding  to  cut  up  the  fine 
old  masterpieces,  extract  the  figures  and  portraits,  and  set 
them  into  the  retablos  — then  considered  the  most  precious 
adornments  of  cathedrals  and  parroquias.  The  observant 
traveller  is  sometimes  charmed  by  the  great  beauty  of  certain 
of  these  diminutive  canvases  and  panels  — mayhap  painted 
with  reverence  and  zeal  by  some  forgotten  artist,  but  now 
skied  and  dusty  and  almost  lost  in  the  gilded  maze  of  altars  in 
apse  or  transept. 

The  stranger  may  at  first  find  himself  embarrassed  in  his 
attempt  to  classify  the  old  paintings,  many  of  which  are  un- 
signed and  undated.  In  the  early  days  a copy  was  appreciated 
with  the  original,  if  equally  well  painted,  and  some  of  the 
Mexican  painters  were  adept  copyists,  working  with  a purity 
of  effect  that  puzzles  the  student  of  to-day.  Certain  pictures 
reveal  an  art  strongly  suggestive  of  Murillo  ; others  are  so 
true  to  the  ideals  of  the  old  Flemish  and  Italian  masters  that 
skill  is  required  to  properly  rank  them.  Certain  of  the  18th 
century  artists  painted  enormous  canvases,  and  when  convents 
and  churches  were  demolished,  it  was  not  an  uncommon  form 
of  ecclesiastical  vandalism  to  trim  the  pictures  to  fit  other 
spaces,  thus  destroying  whatever  name  and  date  they  might 
have  borne.  For  this  reason  alone,  there  is  perhaps  more  than 
one  masterpiece  in  Mexico  whose  author  will  never  be  known. 


cxliv 


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That  no  Mexican  painter  of  ability  or  renown  has  employed 
his  art  to  depict  the  horrors  of  the  Inquisition  in  New  Spain 
is  perhaps  due  to  the  rather  unique  and  forceful  method  of 
reprisal  enjoyed  by  that  detestable  institution.  It  is  equally 
noteworthy  that  the  bull-ring,  also  a Spanish  institution,  and 
one  of  which  certain  Mexicans  are  passionately  fond,  has  not 
been  chosen  as  a subject  by  any  of  the  early  Mexican  artists. 
Nor  did  many  of  them  seek  inspiration  in  the  terrific  and 
transcendental  episode  of  the  Spanish  Conquest.  Some  of 
the  painters  of  the  19th  century  took  up  this  thrilling  theme, 
and  a few  of  the  scenes  live  again  for  us  in  the  picture  of  the 
Visita  de  Cortez  a Montezuma  (by  Juan  Ortega) ; Episodio  de  la 
Conquista  (by  F.  Parra) ; El  Senado  de  Tlaxcala  (by  Rodrigo 
Gutierrez) ; Fray  Bartolome  de  las  Casas  (a  stirring  scene,  by 
Felix  Parra) ; La  Reina  Xochitl  (a  Toltec  legend  referring  to 
the  discovery  of  pulque , by  Jose  Obregon),  and  a Colon  Des- 
pues del  Descubrimiento  de  America  (by  Juan  Cordero),  all 
in  the  San  Carlos  Academy  at  Mexico  City,  and  all  delightful 
adjuncts  to  the  fascinating  history  of  the  country.  A more 
or  less  popular  subject  has  been  the  torturing  of  Cuauhte - 
motzin  by  the  Spanish  soldiery,  but  few  good  pictures  of  the 
harrowing  test  exist.  As  the  greatest  patron  of  art  in  New 
Spain,  the  Church  no  doubt  dictated  and  chose  its  subjects, 
with  the  result  that  75%  of  the  canvases  of  the  early  painters 
are  of  religious  import ; a large  percentage  Virgins,  Santos  and 
Santas  and  Holy  Families.  Mexicans  have,  as  a rule,  always 
been  indifferent  to  the  physical  beauties  of  their  wonderful 
country,  and  notwithstanding  the  existence  in  the  Republic  of 
waterfalls  that  are  miniature  Niagaras,  snow-clad  volcanoes 
in  tropical  settings  that  vie  in  beauty  with  the  winsome  Fuji- 
no-Yama  and  the  grim  giants  of  the  Andes,  and  lakes  that 
rival  in  loveliness  the  gems  of  Northern  Italy,  the  traveller 
must  not  expect  to  see  many  of  them  reproduced  on  canvas. 
Nor  will  the  most  zealous  seeker  find  pictures  of  the  splendid 
Indian  types,  the  picturesque  ranchero,  the  dashing  vaqueros 
and  rurales,  and  the  ragged  beggar  boys  and  girls,  of  whom 
there  is  no  dearth.  Albeit  Mexico  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
countries  of  the  world,  it  has  never  produced  a great  landscape 
painter.  Nor  yet  an  animal  painter.  It  is  significant,  too,  of 
the  attitude  of  the  present-day  painters,  that  one  may  travel 
from  El  Paso  to  Guatemala,  and  not  encounter  above  a half- 
dozen  indifferent  portraits  of  that  lion-hearted,  gentlemanly 
ruffian,  Hernando  Cortes,  or  of  the  pusillanimous  but  ferocious 
M otecuhzoma  (Montezuma)  II,  and  certainly  a pair  of  more 
fetching  blue-beards  could  scarcely  be  found  on  any  canvas. 
Of  war  pictures  there  are  a few,  all  painted,  as  a rule,  by  mod- 
ern artists.  The  following  list  of  Spanish  and  Mexican  painters 
may  perhaps  aid  the  student  and  the  art  collector  interested 
in  the  subject. 


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cxlv 


Rodrigo  de  Cifuentes  (born  in  Cordoba,  Spain,  in  1493) 
followed  the  first  Franciscan  friars  to  Mexico,  which  he 
reached  in  1523,  one  year  after  the  Conquest.  He  was  the  first 
painter  of  any  note  to  come  to  New  Spain,  and  his  first  work 
of  importance  there  was  a portrait  of  Hernan  Cortes  and  one 
of  his  Indian  consort,  Marina.  Cifuentes  aided  the  Flemish 
monk,  Pedro  de  Gante,  to  establish  the  first  school  (1523)  in 
which  painting  was  taught  in  the  New  World.  About  1538  he 
painted  the  portraits  of  several  ecclesiastics  of  distinction,  as 
well  as  those  of  some  members  of  the  first  Audiencia.  From  a 
historical  viewpoint,  one  of  his  most  interesting  pictures  (now 
in  the  Academia  de  San  Carlos , at  Mexico  City)  represents 
Cortes  on  his  knees  thanking  Heaven  for  the  Conquest  of 
Mexico.  Specimens  of  his  now  exceedingly  rare  paintings  can 
be  studied  in  the  Palacio  Municipal  (M.  C.),  among  the  por- 
traits of  the  early  viceroys  of  New  Spain.  The  Baptism  of 
Magiscatzin,  in  the  old  Church  of  San  Francisco , at  Tlaxcala, 
is  attributed  to  Cifuentes. 

Andres  de  Concha  (who  died  about  1599)  was  the  second 
painter  to  come  from  Spain  to  the  New  World.  Padre  Bour- 
goaque  ( Historia  de  los  Predicadores  de  la  Provincia  de  Oaxaca , 
1074)  calls  Concha  the  “ Apelles  of  the  New  World,”  and  says 
he  came  from  the  Escorial  — 1 the  latter  undoubtedly  a fiction, 
as  Concha  left  no  record  of  his  work  on  the  walls  of  the  Esco- 
rial. His  best-known  paintings  in  Mexico  are  in  the  high  altar 
of  the  Church  of  Santo  Domingo , Yauhuitlan,  Oaxaca. 

Baltazar  de  Echave,  called  El  Viejo  (the  elder)  to  distin- 
guish him  from  his  son,  who  was  referred  to  as  Echave  el  Mozo 
(the  younger),  a Spaniard  born  at  Zumaya,  in  the  Basque 
Province  of  Guipuzcoa  (Spain),  a student  of  the  Venetian 
School  who  emigrated  to  Mexico  (about  1590)  with  his  style 
partly  formed,  is  perhaps  the  foremost  figure  among  the  early 
New  World  painters.  He  is  mentioned  as  the  founder  of  the 
Mexican  School,  and  he  was  active  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic 
for  at  least  40  years.  Perhaps  no  painter  had  a greater  influ- 
ence on  art  in  New  Spain;  no  one  showed  more  of  his  fellow 
craftsmen  the  way  to  originality  and  greatness.  While  his 
earliest  work  is  unequal,  defective,  and  academical  in  man- 
ner, time  brought  out  his  artistic  greatness,  and  the  reputation 
he  acquired  in  his  later  years  was  widespread.  His  pictures 
were  eagerly  bought ; his  style  was  studied  by  zealous  imitat- 
ors; he  was  reverently  called  the  Mexican  Titian  — because 
of  a similarity  in  his  work  to  that  of  the  great  Venetian  — and 
his  adopted  countrymen  boastfully  likened  him  to  the  great- 
est master  of  the  Spanish  School.  “ Echave  was  a painter  of 
adaptable  temperament,  and  his  work  at  successive  periods 
shows  much  diversity  of  style  and  method,  so  that  he  cannot 
be  fairly  judged  by  any  one  painting  or  series  of  paintings.  In 
some  of  his  pictures,  for  instance,  his  admirable  drawing  most 


cxlvi 


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prominently  asserts  itself,  in  others  it  is  the  charm  of  color,  or 
the  fertility  of  invention  in  his  pose,  the  diversity  of  types  and 
his  power  of  composition.  A certain  grandiosity,  a spectacular 
pomp,  and  ever  a large  quantity,  mark  his  productions.  Faces 
of  both  Raphaelesque  and  Flemish  influence  indicate  that  he 
may  have  been  a pupil  of  the  Valencian  painter,  Juan  de 
Juanes , who  studied  in  Italy  copying  the  works  of  Raphael 
and  his  School  so  faithfully  that  he  was  known  in  Spain  as  the 
Spanish  Raphael.”  (Sylvester  Baxter.) 

Echave  excelled  in  his  large  canvases,  which  he  was  wont  to 
fill  with  exquisite  detail.  In  his  sectarian  pictures  he  delighted 
in  delineating  the  flat-bosomed  dames  of  his  time,  squeezed 
into  funnel-shaped  corsets  and  choked  by  starched  ruffs,  or  in 
portraying  certain  of  the  lantern-jawed,  sinister-looking  .Vice- 
roys, livid  of  complexion,  fish-like  of  eye,  and  with  cruel  or 
sensuous  faces.  His  portraits  are  sometimes  excellent.  He 
ranked  high  as  a mural  painter  of  conventual  scenes,  and  many 
fine  examples  (now  unhappily  destroyed)  of  his  work  once 
adorned  the  Convento  de  la  Profesa , at  Mexico  City.  He  was 
a brilliant  colorist,  and  his  grace  of  composition,  harmony  of 
tone,  and  subtle  mastery  of  the  highest  qualities  of  his  art 
made  him  a noteworthy  leader  of  the  cis- Atlantic  School.  His 
earlier  pictures  of  which  the  date  and  origin  can  be  deter- 
mined with  certainty  are  those  painted  between  1603  and 
1630.  His  phenomenal  mastery  of  detail — more  apparent  in 
some  of  the  later  works  — reminds  one  of  the  most  painstaking 
early  Flemish  masters ; his  work  was  often  mistaken  for  theirs. 
A splendid  Saint  Cecilia , which  once  hung  in  the  capilla  of  the 
old  San  Agustin  Church  at  Mexico  City,  was  considered  by 
critics  the  equal  of  some  of  the  productions  of  the  Italian 
masters.  His  best  work  extant  is  perhaps  the  Oracidn  del 
Huerto  in  the  Academia  Real  de  San  Carlos  at  Mexico  City. 
The  expression  of  grief  in  the  Saviour’s  face  is  purely  human 
and  touching.  The  unusually  truthful  rendering  of  the  other 
details  has  excited  the  admiration  of  the  Mexican  art  critics, 
who  do  not  hesitate  to  compare  it  with  some  of  the  best  work 
of  the  Spanish  School.  A silly  story,  perpetuated  by  some 
writers,  to  the  effect  that  Echave  learned  his  art  from  his 
alleged  wife,  La  Zumaya , is  not  borne  out  by  the  facts.  An 
18th  century  annalist,  Licenciado  Don  Cayetano  de  Cabrera  y 
QuintadOy  in  his  Escudo  de  Armas  de  Mexico  (Mex.  1746,  page 
140),  says  very  quaintly,  with  reference  to  the  San  Sebastian 
attributed  to  her: 

“ In  one  of  his  altars,  and  it  is  that  one  which  is  erected  in  the  tras- 
rnro,  is  seen  through  glass  his  Image,  and  valiant  Picture,  a marvel  to  Pro- 
fessors of  the  art,  and  the  work,  according  to  tradition,  of  the  famous 
Sumaya . a celebrated  painter  in  this  city,  Mistress  not  only  in  painting, 
but  in  that  she  taught  the  celebrated  Viscaino,  Balthazar  Echave  the 
first,  and  whom  she  had  for  her  husband,  and  disciple,  and  the  sons  of 
these  parents  degenerated  not:  this  beautiful  image  has  been  lately 


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exlvii 


placed  in  this  same  site  and  altar,  which  is  also  that  of  Nuestra  Senora 
del  Perdon.” 

Echave  had  many  pupils  and  imitators,  whose  inferior 
works  are  usually  attributed  by  ignorant  guides  to  him  or  his 
pseudo-wife.  To  this  mythical  “ Zumaya  ” Rivera  Cambas  also 
attributes  certain  of  the  pictures  in  the  Altar  de  los  Reyes  in 
the  Mex.  City  Cathedral. 

Echave  can  be  studied  to  the  best  advantage  in  the  San 
Carlos  Academy,  where  he  has  a Martirio  de  San  Pedro  Arbues , 
Aparicion  de  Cristo  y la  Virgen  a San  Francisco  de  A sis,  San 
Juan  Evangelista,  Martirio  de  San  Ponciano,  La  Visitation, 
Santa  Ana  y la  Virgen,  and  other  pictures. 

Sebastian  Arteaga,  a notary  of  the  Inquisition,  who 
signed  himself  Notario  del  Santo  Oficio  (p.  356),  is  joined  with 
Echave  the  Elder  in  the  honor  of  having  founded  the  Mexi- 
can School.  He  studied  in  Italy  during  the  last  years  of  the 
16th  century,  and  came  to  Mexico  from  Spain  with  his  style 
formed  and  influenced  by  the  Spanish  School.  Some  of  his 
pictures  present  sharp  contrasts;  his  human  figures  are,  as  a 
rule,  well  drawn,  while  the  detail  is  marred  by  carelessness 
and  insipidity.  Certain  of  his  drawings  are  so  defective  in 
their  conventional  stiffness,  and  so  exaggerated  in  expression, 
that  one  is  led  to  believe  his  spirit  was  warped  by  the  ques- 
tionable institution  which  he  served.  He  was  not  wanting  in 
vigor,  as  can  be  seen  by  his  Christ  and  St.  Thomas  in  the  San 
Carlos  Academy.  The  general  effect  of  his  Los  Deposorios 
de  la  Virgen  in  the  same  gallery  is  good,  albeit  the  detail, 
particularly  in  the  faces  of  his  angels,  is  deficient.  At  times 
his  color  is  ashy  and  disagreeable  in  tone,  but  his  best  work  is 
striking.  Arteaga's  varying  moods,  and  the  wide  difference 
between  his  best  and  poorest  work,  proved  misleading  to  the 
critics.  A painting  by  Francisco  Zurbardn  (a  Spanish  painter 
of  Estremadura,  1598-1661)  at  the  Academy,  El  Castillo  de 
Emmaus  (said  to  be  worth  $150,000),  was  long  supposed  to  be 
Arteaga's  work,  until  the  cleaning  of  the  canvas  revealed  the 
signature  of  the  Spanish  Master. 

More  than  one  of  Zurbardn' s pict  ures  are  believed  to  exist  in  Mexico, 
and  lucky  indeed  is  the  traveller  who  succeeds  in  adding  one  of  these 
unique  and  almost  priceless  canvases  to  his  collection.  “Zurbardn pushed 
the  realistic  method  to  a strange  and  even  painful  extreme.  He  seemed 
to  pride  himself  on  being  freer  from  fancy  or  imagination  than  any  other 
painter  who  ever  existed.  Even  his  angels  and  other  heavenly  personages 
look  like  photographs  of  the  ugly  boys  and  girls  he  placed  on  his  model’s 
stand,  dressed  in  white  linen  drapery  fresh  from  the  laundry.  His  female 
martyrs  wear  half-fashionable,  half-fantastic  costumes  arranged  on  a 
scheme  of  three  colors,  and  their  fashionably  flat  bosoms  and  pointed 
bird-like  faces  resemble  the  curious  figures  of  saints  reproduced  by  the 
Netherlandish  artists  at  the  end  of  the  Middle  Ages.  On  the  other  hand, 
he  is  seen  to  advantage  in  his  scenes  from  monkish  legends,  where  he 
depicts  the  cowled  members  of  the  great  establishments  that  patronized 
him  with  unexampled  truthfulness  and  grandeza.  In  fact,  he  raised  this 
previously  insignificant  branch  of  art  to  new  importance.  The  Carthusian 
scenes  in  the  Museum  of  Seville  and  the  Mercenarian  scenes  in  the  cathe- 


cxlviii 


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dral  of  that  city  are  among  the  earliest  of  his  works.  These  and  later 
productions  form  a priceless  gallery  of  characteristic  popular  types.  No- 
body else  has  ever  had  so  sharp  an  eye  for  monkish  life  and  gestures,  dis- 
criminating subtly  among  the  various  orders  and  the  various  ranks  of 
the  brothers  of  the  tonsure.  In  most  of  his  works  all  the  light  comes 
from  one  side,  throwing  sharply  defined  shadows,  relieved  by  reflections. 
At  a later  period  he  acquired  a softer  manner,  with  dark  sfumaio 
shadows  on  a ground  glowing  with  light.  In  his  later  style  he  imitated 
the  composition  of  the  Italians,  but  with  little  success.”  (Prof.  Carl 
Justi.)  Some  of  Zurbardn's  pictures  are  decidedly  Flemish  in  character. 

Luis  Juarez,  a contemporary  of  Echave  the  Elder , was  such 
a zealous  imitator  of  that  master,  that  some  of  his  pictures,  at 
first  glance,  resemble  the  greater  painter’s  work,  though  lack- 
ing its  vigor.  They  can  usually  be  distinguished  by  the  pro- 
fusion of  admirably  drawn  angels’  heads,  in  the  painting  of 
which  Juarez  excelled.  His  best  work  was  done  between  1610 
and  1630.  In  1621  he  painted  a grand  altar-piece  for  the  Church 
of  Jesus  Maria  (Mex.  City),  for  which  he  received  nine  thousand 
pesos  — a considerable  sum  in  those  days,  and  illustrative  of 
the  wealth  of  the  new  Crown  Colonies,  since  Murillo,  who 
painted  (in  *1674)  the  eight  grand  pictures  La  Caridad  (of 
Sevilla),  received  but  $4,000  for  them.  Certain  historians  aver 
that  Juarez  exercised  considerable  influence  on  Mexican  art  by 
his  pictures.  His  colors  were  soft  — in  the  style  of  the  Span- 
ish School  — and  were  deftly  manipulated.  The  majority  of 
his  pictures  have  disappeared,  and  the  most  that  can  be  said 
of  those  extant  is  that  they  show  a certain  individuality  and 
a pleasing  style.  Those  at  present  in  the  San  Carlos  Acad- 
emy are  a Retrato  de  una  Virgen , Santa  Ana , La  Anunciacion , 
Busto  de  Virgen,  Deposorios  de  Santa  Catarina,  and  others. 

Jose  Juarez,  who  studied  under  Baltazar  de  Echave  the 
Elder , a tireless  worker,  whose  pictures  bear  dates  between 
1642  and  1653,  achieved  such  fame  that  most  of  his  pictures 
were  exported  in  the  belief  that  they  were  by  better  known 
masters.  He  drew  admirably,  and  his  best  work  is  ranked 
with  some  of  that  of  Echave.  Comparatively  little  is  known  of 
the  life  of  Juarez.  Critics  agree  that  he  was  an  adept  in  catch- 
ing shades  of  facial  expression,  that  his  work  was  much  sought 
after  by  art  lovers,  and  that  he  exercised  a considerable  influ- 
ence on  painting  in  New  Spain.  Mr.  Baxter  holds  the  opinion 
that  the  two  Echaves,  father  and  son,  the  Juarez  brothers, 
J os*  and  Jose  Rodriguez , and  Arteaga  represent  the  highest 
achievement  of  the  Mexican  School.  Juarez's  Aparicidn  de  la 
Virgen  6 San  Francisco,  now  in  the  San  Carlos  Academy,  is 
excellent  for  its  wealth  of  detail.  A few  of  his  pictures  are  to 
be  found  in  private  collections  in  the  Republic.  Whether  or 
not  Juarez  should  occupy  the  high  place  assigned  him  is  a 
question  upon  which  the  critical  traveller  may  form  his  own 
judgment  “without  fear  of  offending  any  of  the  generally 
accepted  canons  of  criticism.” 

Ealtazar  de  Echave  el  Mozo  (junior)  copied  his  father’s 


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cxlix 


splendid  manner  with  poor  success.  He  lacked  the  florid 
imagination,  the  dignity  and  skill  of  the  elder,  and  time  proved 
him  deficient  in  the  artistic  refinement  which  lent  such  endur- 
ing charm  to  his  father’s  best  work.  He  strained  his  capacity 
to  the  utmost  in  an  effort  to  truthfully  portray  the  devotional 
sentiments;  failing  signally.  Some  of  the  decorations  in  the 
sacristy  of  the  Puebla  Cathedral  are  by  him.  The  Triumph 
of  the  Church  and  the  Triumph  of  Religion  are  transcrip- 
tions from  Rubens,  with  modifications  due  to  his  inability  to 
faithfully  reproduce  a work  of  that  master.  One  of  his  pictures 
now  in  the  San  Carlos  Academy,  Cristo  Llevado  al  Sepulcro, 
with  the  date  1669,  is  perhaps  one  of  his  best  works. 

Diego  de  Borgraf,  believed  to  have  been  a Spaniard  re- 
siding in  Mexico,  painted  (about  1650)  pictures  that  were 
scarcely  distinguishable  from  some  of  the  best  work  of  the 
early  Italian  School.  So  closely  did  his  most  careful  work  re- 
semble that  of  the  European  masters  that  most  of  his  pictures 
were  exported  in  the  belief  that  they  were  of  Italian  origin. 

Cristobal  de  Villalpando,  a man  of  a noteworthy  talent, 
one  of  the  most  popular  artists  of  his  day,  who  painted  jointly 
wdth  an  equally  celebrated  man,  Juan  Correa , was  born  about 
1649,  and  died  about  1714.  History  makes  an  all  too  meagre 
reference  to  Correa , who  is  thought  to  have  died  about  1739. 
The  aim  of  these  collaborators  seems  to  have  been  to  leave 
great  and  grandiose  works  to  posterity;  the  most  important 
of  their  productions  are  the  seven  enormous  paintings  that 
decorate  the  sacristy  and  the  coro  of  the  Mex.  City  Cathedral. 
Of  the  pictures  in  the  sacristia,  Villalpando  painted  The  Apo- 
calypseThe  Triumph  of  the  Sacrament , and  The  Glory  of 
Saint  Michael , while  Correa  painted  The  Assumption  of  the 
Virgin,  The  Allegory  of  the  Church,  and  The  Entrance  into 
Jerusalem.  The  central  painting  in  the  Cathedral  choir,  a 
scene  from  the  Apocalypse,  shows  Correa  at  his  best.  His 
Souls  in  Purgatory,  on  the  W.  wall  of  the  choir,  is  not  in 
his  best  manner.  In  the  Capilla  de  San  Pedro , of  the  Cathe- 
dral, there  are  also  14  paintings  representing  scenes  in  the 
life  of  St.  Peter,  that  are  attributed  to  Correa.  Other  good  ex- 
amples of  Villalpando’ s work  are  the  Oration  in  the  Garden, 
San  Juan  de  la  Cruz,  and  The  Flagellation,  in  the  sacristy  of 
the  Carmelite  Church  of  San  Angelo  Mdrtir,  at  San  Angel.  His 
series  of  paintings  for  the  lunettes  of  the  cloisters  at  the  Jesuit 
College  of  Tepozotlan  are  richly  luminous  in  coloring. 

A noteworthy  painter  of  the  Mexican  School,  Juana  Ines 
de  la  Cruz,  Mexico’s  earliest  female  poet,  and  by  far  the  most 
remarkable  woman  (b.  1651;  d.  1699)  the  country  ever  pro- 
duced, painted  several  ecclesiastical  pictures  of  note,  although 
their  present  whereabouts  is  unknown.  One  of  the  most  curi- 
ous of  her  paintings  (a  small  picture  of  herself)  is  now  in  pos- 
session of  the  Pennsylvania  Museum,  at  Philadelphia,  Pa., 


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U.  S.  A.  In  the  National  Museum  at  Mexico  City  there  is  a 
life-size  painting  (by  Miguel  Cabrera)  of  her  in  her  library. 

Jose  Rodriguez  Juarez  (b.  1676;  d.  1728),  sometimes 
spoken  of  as  the  Mexican  Carracci , — because  of  the  similarity 
of  his  work  to  that  of  the  Bologna  School,  — produced  some  of 
his  best  pictures  between  1702  and  1720.  His  productions  are 
marked  by  great  dignity  and  impressiveness;  he  was  perhaps 
the  first  to  adopt  the  manner  (patterned  after  Murillo)  which 
was  later  improved  upon  by  Cabrera , and  which  became  popu- 
lar in  Mexico  in  the  18th  century.  The  technique  of  Juarez's 
best  pictures  is  excellent,  the  colors  are  brilliant  and  clear  and 
the  shades  are  deftly  contrasted,  with  fine  gradations  of  tone. 

A marked  freedom  of  touch  which  produces  truthful  effects 
in  a simple  manner  is  noticeable  in  his  finer  work.  The  best 
known  of  his  productions  is  the  series  of  twenty  paintings 
for  the  great  CapiUa  de  las  Santos  Reyes  in  the  Mex.  City 
Cathedral.  The  centrepiece  of  the  splendid  Churrigueresque 
reredo , the  Adoracion  de  los  Reyes  Magos,  is  regarded  as  his 
masterpiece.  He  has  a number  of  paintings  scattered  through- 
out the  Republic,  but  none  are  equal  to  those  above  men- 
tioned, with  the  exception,  perhaps,  of  two  excellent  pictures,  i 
La  Santisima  Yirgen  and  La  Huida  al  Egipto,  in  the  cloister 
of  the  beautiful  'Jesuit  Church  of  Tepozotlan.  The  San  Juan 
de  Dios  and  a Retrato  del  Pintor  Miguel  Cabrera,  in  the  San 
Carlos  Academy,  are  inferior  to  his  best  work. 

Nicolas  Rodriguez  Juarez  (a  brother  of  J.  R.  J.)  was  a monk 
and  portrait  painter  of  some  renown.  His  Triumph  of  the 
Virgin,  a composition  of  richly  decorative  quality,  in  the 
Church  of  Nuestra  Sehora  del  Carmen,  Celaya,  is  spoken  of  as 
one  of  his  best  works.  It  bears  the  date  of  1699. 

Jose  Maria  Ibarra  (b.  1688  ; d.  1756),  next  to  Miguel 
Cabrera  the  greatest  Mexican  painter  of  the  18th  century, 
was  a brilliant  colorist  and  because  of  this  quality  he  was 
called  the  Murillo  of  New  Spain.  That  he  strove  for  the 
evanescent  and  incredibly  charming  Murillo  quality  is  very  j 
evident  in  all  his  works,  certain  of  which  are  considered  the 
equal  of  Cabrera's  best  productions.  In  point  of  fact,  Murillo’s 
methods  raised  a host  of  imitators  in  the  New  World,  and  no 
Old  World  painter  was  copied  more  extensively;  certainly 
none  had  a more  extensive  following  in  New  Spain.  According  ! 
to  Rafael  Lucio , Ibarra  studied  under  Juan  Correa  (p.  cxlix), 
who  is  referred  to  as  the  master  of  Ibarra.  Although  Murillo 
had  died  (1682)  six  years  before  Ibarra  was  born,  the  latter 
studied  the  work  of  the  great  Spanish  master  from  his  boy- 
hood, when  he  painted  pictures  in  imitation  of  the  many  which 
Murillo  himself,  when  yet  a mere  boy,  u painted  for  exporta- 
tion to  the  Spanish  colonies  of  America.”  He  copied  Murillo’s 
angels  in  such  a very  excellent  way  that  he  soon  gained  a con- 
siderable reputation  as  an  able  copyist,  which  reputation  he 


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cli 


later  enhanced  by  developing  an  originality  and  execution 
which  placed  him  in  the  rank  of  the  greatest  painters  of  the 
New  World.  Like  Murillo,  Ibarra  claimed  attention  by  a 
startling  mastery  of  effects  which  rise  above  the  purely  ma- 
terialistic, and  in  this  he  vies  with  the  Italians  of  the  Academic 
school.  His  favorite  colors  for  draperies  were  red  and  biue; 
his  expression  was  oftentimes  weak,  but  his  best  works  were 
marked  by  a warm,  harmonious  coloring,  and  a truthful  ren- 
dering of  nature  which  makes  them  noteworthy.  Despite  his 
ardent  admiration  for  the  works  of  the  greatest  painter  of 
concepciones,  Ibarra  never  attained  that  unexampled  fidelity, 
the  marvellous  versatility  which  enabled  the  incomparable 
Murillo  to  portray  his  almost  divinely  beautiful  Virgins. 
Critics  have  perhaps  failed  to  realize  that  Ibarra's  Creole  and 
Indian  environment  did  not  lend  itself  to  the  production  of 
the  fine  Andalusian  types  which  form  the  always  charming 
base  of  Murillo’s  most  admirable  work.  Ibarra  can  perhaps 
be  studied  to  the  best  advantage  in  the  Academia  de  San  Car- 
los, where  he  has  a number  of  pictures,  among  them  a note- 
worthy Circunsicion , La  Purisima , Adoracion  de  los  Pastores, 
Cristo  en  Casa  de  Simon , La  Mujer  Adultera,  La  Samaritana, 
Cristo  y la  Mujer  del  Flujo , and  a series  of  eight  small  paint- 
ings, Nacimiento  de  la  Virgen,  Adoracion  de  los  Pastores , La 
Presentation,  La  Resurreccion,  La  Ascencion,  Pentacostes , La 
Asuncion,  and  La  Virgen  del  Apocalipsis.  Excellent  examples 
of  Ibarra's  wrork  are  the  four  large  paintings  on  the  wall  of 
the  coro  in  the  Puebla  Cathedral. 

Miguel  Cabrera,  a Zapotec  Indian  (b.  1695;  d.  1768),  a nat- 
ive of  Oaxaca  City,  the  most  extraordinarily  popular  of  all 
the  Mexican  painters  of  his  time,  is  frequently  referred  to  as 
the  foremost  artist  of  his  century.  His  best  work  resembles 
some  of  the  fine  Luca  Giordano  frescoes  in  the  Escorial.  He 
was  a prodigious  worker,  with  a uniform  style,  and  he  fur- 
nished the  walls  of  many  cloisters  and  churches  of  New  Spain 
with  some  huge  and  admirable  pictures.  Albeit  no  Mexican 
painter  covered  larger  canvases,  Cabrera  devoted  considerable 
time  to  small  bits,  and  formerly  a great  number  of  little 
painted  gems  on  wood,  copper,  and  canvas,  bearing  the  dates 
of  1750-67,  were  scattered  throughout  the  Republic.  Cabrera 
borrowed  many  of  his  compositions  from  the  inventions  of 
trans- Atlantic  painters  by  means  of  engravings  and  the  like, 
and  his  adroitness  in  evolving  from  this  eclecticism  a style 
which,  though  manifestly  that  of  others,  was  yet  his  own,  re- 
veals an  astuteness  characteristically  Indian.  His  inherent 
and  peculiar  style  of  handling  the  pencil  and  brush  was  so 
marked  that  when  he  copied  in  oil  celebrated  trans-Atlantic 
pictures,  his  admirers  claimed  that  he  bestowed  new  attrac- 
tions by  changing  the  composition  to  suit  his  own  rich  fancy. 
His  best  pictures  show  traces  of  combined  Italian  and  Flemish 


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influence,  with  a light,  easy,  and  masterful  touch.  His  colors 
were  thinly  spread  upon  the  canvas,  and  he  employed  the  pig-  i 
ments  which  after  the  Conquest  made  the  Aztecs  celebrated  I 
throughout  the  Old  World.  His  constructive  ability  was  note-  i 
worthy  and  was  marked  by  unusual  excellence.  “His  capacity  9 
to  represent  the  human  hand,  like  that  observed  in  all  Mexi-  I 
can  painters  of  his  century,  was  deficient,  but  his  drawing  and  fl 
the  expression  of  his  heads  are  singularly  good.  He  intro-  I 
duced  a broad  and  grand  mode  of  treatment  but  little  inferior  1 
to  the  great  European  masters,  and  by  so  doing  he  made  a 
revolution  in  Mexican  art.” 

Intensely  religious  by  nature,  the  narrow  bigotry  of  the  1 
Spanish  Viceroys,  the  terrors  of  the  Inquisition,  and  the  influ-  I 
ence  of  the  priesthood  tended  to  impart  a somewhat  sombre  | 
character  to  his  pictures.  A firm  believer  in  miracles,  an  ar-  1 
dent  and  zealous  Catholic,  he  became  the  court,  painter  of  I 
Archbishop  Rubio  y Salina,  and  he  was  long  the  favorite  1 
painter  of  the  Jesuits.  In  1756  he  WTote  a small  brochure  to 
prove  that  the  alleged  miraculous  painting  of  the  Virgin  of  , 
Guadalujpe  (Mex.  City)  was  “painted  neither  in  water-color,  ] 
nor  in  oil,  nor  in  any  other  manner  artificial  or  human.”  He  :j 
was  something  of  an  architect  and  enjoyed  a small  reputation  j 
as  a sculptor.  Because  of  his  peculiar,  and  unfortunate,  talent 
for  mural  decoration,  many  of  his  best  paintings  perished  : 
when  the  conventual  estates  were  sequestrated  and  later  de-  I 
molished.  The  splendid  series  of  paintings  representing  scenes 
in  the  life  of  Santo  Domingo,  once  the  chief  adornment  of  the 
old  Santo  Domingo  elaustro  (M.  C).,  were  ruined  when  the  j 
structure  was  torn  down.  A number  of  his  works,  most  of 
them  of  minor  merit,  are  still  to  be  found  in  the  church  inte- 
riors of  the  Republic.  He  has  the  credit  of  being  the  author  of 
all  old  paintings  by  unknown  hands.  Modern  critics  consider 
his  large  canvas,  the  Virgin  of  the  Apocalypse,  in  the  San  Car- 
los  Academy , as  perhaps  the  best  example  extant  of  his  work. 

It  was  painted  in  1760,  and  is  very  striking  when  seen  from  the 
opposite  side  of  the  room  wherein  it  hangs.  Other  pictures  by 
him,  in  the  same  gallery,  are  a Retrato  de  un  Pinter  Mexieano , San 
Ignacio  de  Loyola,  La  Virgen  de  la  Merced , San  Jose  y el  Nino 
Jesus  recibiendo  las  Peticiones  de  los  Devotos , San  Anselmo 
Obispo,  and  others.  The  series  of  the  14  Stations  of  the  Cross, 
painted  for  the  Puebla  Cathedral  and  now  much  injured  by 
restoration,  were  at  one  time  excellent  examples  of  his  work. 

Francisco  Martinez,  a painter  of  whom  little  is  known 
and  but  few  of  whose  works  are  to  be  found  in  the  Republic,  , 
painted  between  1721  and  1736. 

Jose  Alzibar,  a pupil  of  Ibarra,  and  one  of  the  last  repre- 
sentatives of  the  older  Mexican  School,  did  bis  best  work 
between  1762  and  1793.  He  might  almost  be  said  to  have 
carried  on  lba rra's  work  and  to  have  worn  the  mantle  of  that 


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cliii 


master,  as  Ibarra  died  in  1756  and  Alzibar  rose  steadily  into 
prominence  later.  The  few  of  Alzibar’s  pictures  that  remain 
in  Mexico  — notably  the  admirable  Last  Supper  and  the  al- 
most equally  good  Triumph  of  the  F aith , in  the  Claveria  of 
the  Mexico  City  Cathedral  — show  that  his  style  was  formed 
upon,  and  that  he  strove  to  acquire,  Murillo’s  “ third  man- 
ner,” termed  by  Spanish  criti  s vaporoso  (misty),  from  a 
gradual  and  almost  imperceptible  fusion  of  tints,  producing 
a kind  of  hazy  effect.  (Murillo’s  lasting  fame  rests  upon  his 
mastery  of  this  style.)  Alzibar’s  San  Luis  Gonzaga  — for- 
merly a possession  of  the  Cathedral  sacristy,  but  now  in  the 
San  Carlos  Academy  — is  a masterpiece  in  its  way.  Many 
of  Alzibar’s  productions  were  exported  in  the  belief  that  they 
were  painted  by  the  celebrated  Ibarra. 

By  far  the  most  striking  figure  in  the  history  of  Mexi- 
can painters  of  the  19th  cent.,  and  certainly  the  most  in- 
teresting one  in  the  history  of  Mexican  architecture,  is  that 
of  Francisco  Eduardo  de  Tresguerras  (b.  1765;  d.  1833),  an 
architect,  a sculptor,  a painter,  an  etcher,  an  engraver  on 
wood,  a musician,  and  a poet.  He  is  known  as  the  Michael 
Angelo  of  Mexico,  and  as  an  indefatigable  worker,  of  celebrated 
versatility.  A Creole,  or  native  Mexican  of  Spanish  blood, 
and  the  last  celebrated  architect  of  the  Colonial  or  Vice-regal 
regime,  Tresguerras  was  of  a profoundly  religious  nature,  and 
he  devoted  his  great  energy  to  building  and  decorating 
churches  in  his  native  town  of  Celaya,  in  Queretaro,  and  other 
near-by  towns.  It  is  at  Celaya  that  his  best  work  in  this  line 
can  be  studied : in  the  celebrated  Church  of  Nuestra  Sehora 
del  Carmen,  his  masterpiece,  and,  at  the  same  time,  one  of  the 
most  celebrated  churches  in  the  Republic.  His  largest  and 
most  important  painting  is  the  magnificent  mural  decoration 
in  the  sacristy  of  the  collegiate  Convent  of  Santa  Rosa  de  Vi- 
terbo, in  Queretaro  City,  the  “ Hortus  Conclusas”  in  the 
charming  allegory  of  the  Closed  Garden.  No  less  a critic  than 
the  late  Charles  D.  Warner  pronounced  this  painting  “one  of 
the  most  notable  in  Mexico ; one  that  would  do  credit  to  Mu- 
rillo ; a representative  of  the  best  flowering  of  the  great  Span- 
ish School  on  Mexican  soil.”  Tresguerras  was  paid  $15,000  for 
this  picture,  the  finest  example  extant  of  his  earliest  work. 
Specimens  of  his  best  manner  can  be  studied  in  the  Chapel  of 
the  Last  Judgment , in  the  Church  of  N.  S.  del  Carmen,  at  Celaya. 
The  Last  Judgment,  though  sketchy  in  character,  is  in- 
tensely dramatic.  The  Entombment  of  Tobias  and  The  Re- 
surrection of  Lazarus  are  admirable  examples  of  his  later 
work,  which  shows  a proud,  free  talent,  a more  truthful  ren- 
dering of  nature,  and  a defter  manipulation  of  the  medium. 
The  Church  of  N.S.del  Carmen  is  such  a beautiful  structure 
and  is  enriched  by  so  many  admirable  frescoes  and  oil  paint- 
ings of  the  master,  that  no  lover  of  such  should  leave  Mexico 


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LITERATURE 


without  seeing  it.  Few  Mexican  painters  have  so  well  under- 
stood the  art  of  pictorial  composition,  or  known  so  well  how 
to  charm  the  eye  by  gradations  of  light,  skilful  attitudes,  and 
adroit  foreshort enings ; few  have  calculated  their  effects  more 
carefully  than  Tresguerras.  As  a painter  of  allegorical  subjects 
he  is  perhaps  unsurpassed  in  Mexico.  He  was  a brilliant 
colorist,  and  he  produced  light  and  shade  effects  that  were  al- 
together charming.  That  his  whole  soul  was  in  his  work  is  evi- 
dent to  the  most  casual  observer.  He  was  such  a close  and  de- 
voted student  of  Murillo  that  many  of  his  slight  works  might 
easily  be  mistaken  for  sketches  by  the  great  Spaniard.  History 
does  not  record  the  master  who  gave  Tresguerras  his  thorough 
training  in  the  fundamentals  of  his  art.  Whosoever  this  might 
have  been,  this  Celaya  student  easily  surpassed  him  and  rose 
almost  to  the  sphere  of  positive  genius.  That  he  received 
some  of  his  inspiration  from  the  paintings  of  the  great  Ibarra  is 
quite  possible,  as  a similarity  can  be  detected  in  their  work.  It 
is  surprising  that  his  many  occupations  permitted  Tresguerras 
to  pamt  the  many  splendid  pictures  which  survive  him.  As  an 
all-round  craftsman  and  artist  he  was  unique  in  Mexican 
annals ; untainted  by  even  a dash  of  Mexican  indolence ; one 
who  had  mastered  his  various  accomplishments,  and  who  gave 
them  form  with  simplicity  and  speed.  Although  some  of  his 
early  works  were  marred  by  harshness  and  a sketchy  effect 
which  detracted  from  them,  age  brought  him  into  his  own, 
and  his  later  manner  is  replete  with  a serious  individuality 
and  a pride  which  acknowledged  his  worth,  and  “ which  recks 
not  how  it  may  look  to  others.5’  All  the  qualities  of  his  mature 
experience  are  found  in  his  later  works,  referred  to  above.  His 
Santa  Ana  y La  Virgen  in  the  San  Carlos  Academy  at  Mexico 
City  is  not  representative  of  his  best  manner. 

Francisco  Antonio  Vallejo,  whose  best  works  bear  dates 
from  1767  to  1778,  was  a successful  imitator  of  Murillo.  His 
drawing  is  frequently  exaggerated  and  lacks  ease  and  flow; 
his  coloring  is  conventional  and  sometimes  weak,  but  there  is 
a delicacy  and  refinement  in  some  of  his  pictures  which  have 
earned  him  the  praise  of  some  critics.  He  was  a rapid  worker 
and  favored  large  canvases.  He  must  have  painted  with  a 
diligence  somewhat  unusual  in  Mexico,  for  beside  a fine  votive 
picture  in  the  Conservatorio  de  Musica , at  Mexico  City,  a 
Feast  of  the  Pentecost  and  a Holy  Family  in  the  old  Colegio 
de  San  Ildefonso  (p.  360),  he  has  12  huge  canvases  (some  S by 
12  ft.  square)  in  the  Capilla  de  los  Dolores,  in  the  Church  of 
San  Diego  (p.  334),  all  bearing  nearly  the  same  dates. 

Literature.  The  history  of  literature  in  Mexico  antedates 
the  Conquest,  and  begins  perhaps  with  the  Mayas  of  Yucatan, 
who  had  books  like  those  of  the  Siamese,  written  on  parch- 
ment or  native  paper  doubled  into  narrow  pages  and  folded 


LITERATURE 


civ 


like  a screen.  Father  Landa,  the  historian  of  the  invasion  of 
that  peninsula,  says  ( Las  Cosas  de  Yucatan , chap,  xli,  p.  316) : 
“The  Maya  priests  wrote  books  about  their  various  sciences 
and  imparted  their  knowledge  to  those  whom  they  considered 
worthy  of  enlightenment.  ...  We  found  a great  number  of 
their  books,  but  because  there  was  nothing  in  them  that  had 
not  some  superstition  or  falsehood  of  the  Devil,  we  burned  them 
all,  at  which  the  natives  were  marvellously  sorry  and  dis- 
tressed.” Whether  these  works  were  of  a high  literary  order,  no 
one  knows.  Landa  confesses  that  among  the  Maya  books  were 
some  on  medicine,  astronomy,  chronology,  geology,  and  theol- 
ogy. “They  had,”  said  he,  “ books  containing  the  early  history 
of  their  own  nation,  and  of  others  with  whom  they  had  inter- 
course. Their  written  and  spoken  language  was  complex ; one 
in  which  fine  shades  of  thought  could  be  expressed.”  Beside 
burning  these  books  Landa  fed  the  flames  with  twenty-seven 
large  manuscripts  of  parchment  and  destroyed  many  statues 
and  vases.  “Pure  bigotry  actuated  Landa,  for  he  possessed 
but  a very  imperfect  knowledge  of  Maya  writings.  Thus  per- 
ished the  priceless  records  of  the  early  Americans,  an  irre- 
parable loss  which  mere  words  fail  to  express.  At  the  time  of 
the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards,  great  quantities  of  manuscripts 
were  treasured  up  in  Anahuac.  Numerous  persons  were  em- 
ployed in  picture  writing,  and  the  dexterity  of  their  operations 
excited  the  astonishment  of  the  Spaniards.  Unfortunately  this 
was  mingled  with  other  and  unworthy  feelings.  The  strange, 
unknown  characters  on  them  excited  suspicion.  They  were 
looked  on  as  magic  scrolls,  and  were  regarded  in  the  same 
light  with  the  idols  and  temples,  as  symbols  of  a pestilent 
superstition,  that  must  be  extirpated. 

“ The  first  Bishop  of  Mexico,  Don  Juan  de  Zumarraga  (comp, 
p.  402)  — a name  that  should  be  as  immortal  as  that  of  Omar 
— collected  these  paintings  from  every  quarter,  especially 
from  Tezcuco,  the  most  cultivated  capital  in  Anahuac , and  the 
great  depository  of  the  national  archives.  He  then  caused 
them  to  be  piled  up  in  a f mountain  heap  ’ — as  it  is  called  by 
Spanish  writers  themselves  — in  the  market-place  of  Tlalte - 
lolco,  and  reduced  them  all  to  ashes  (Ixtlilxochitl,  Hist.  Chick . 
MS.).  His  greater  countryman,  Archbishop  Ximenes , had 
celebrated  a similar  auto-de-fe  of  Arabic  manuscripts  in 
Granada,  some  20  years  before.  Never  did  fanaticism  achieve 
two  more  signal  triumphs  than  by  the  annihilation  of  so  many 
curious  monuments  of  human  ingenuity  and  learning.”  (Pres- 
cott, vol.  i,  p.  103  et  seq.) 

That  there  were  poets  and  men  of  high  literary  attainment 
in  Mexico  before  the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards  is  proven  by 
the  writings  of  Netzahualcoyotl,  cacique  of  Tezcuco  in  the  15t,h 
cent.  “The  historian  Ixtlilxochitl  has  left  a translation,  in 
Castilian,  of  one  of  the  poems  of  his  royal  ancestor.  It  is  not 


clvi 


LITERATURE 


easy  to  render  his  version  into  corresponding  English  rhyme, 
without  the  perfume  of  the  original  escaping  in  this  double 
filtration.  They  remind  one  of  the  rich  breathings  of  Spanish- 
Arab  poetry,  in  which  an  ardent  imagination  is  tempered  by 
a not  unpleasing  and  moral  melancholy.  But,  though  suffi- 
ciently florid  in  diction,  they  are  generally  free  from  the  mere- 
tricious ornaments  and  hyperbole  with  which  the  minstrelsy 
of  the  East  is  usually  tainted.  They  turn  on  the  vanities  and 
mutability  of  human  life,  — a topic  very  natural  for  a mon- 
arch who  had  himself  experienced  the  strangest  mutations  of 
fortune.  There  is  mingled  in  the  lament  of  the  Tezcucan  bard, 
however,  an  Epicurean  philosophy,  which  seeks  relief  from 
the  fears  of  the  future  in  the  joys  of  the  present.”  “Banish 
care,”  he  says:  “if  there  are  bounds  to  pleasure,  the  saddest 
life  must  also  have  an  end.  Then  weave  the  chaplet  of  flowers, 
and  sing  thy  songs  in  praise  of  the  all-powerful  God ; for  the 
glory  of  this  world  soon  fadeth  away.  Rejoice  in  the  green 
freshness  of  thy  spring;  for  the  day  will  come  when  thou  shalt 
sigh  for  these  joys  in  vain;  when  the  sceptre  shall  pass  from 
thy  hands,  thy  servants  shall  wander  desolate  in  thy  courts, 
thy  sons,  and  the  sons  of  thy  nobles,  shall  drink  the  dregs  of 
distress,  and  all  the  pomp  of  thy  victories  and  triumphs  shall 
only  live  in  their  recollection.  Yet  the  remembrance  of  the 
just  shall  not  pass  away  from  the  nations,  and  the  good  thou 
hast  done  shall  ever  be  held  in  honor.  The  goods  of  this  life, 
its  glories  and  its  riches,  are  but  lent  to  us,  its  substance  is  but 
an  illusory  shadow,  and  the  things  of  to-day  shall  change 
on  the  coming  of  the  morrow.  Then  gather  the  fairest  flowers 
from  thy  garden,  to  bind  round  thy  brow  and  seize  the  joys 
of  the  present  ere  they  perish.” 

“/o  tocare  cantando 
El  musico  instrumento  sonoroso, 

Tu  de  flores  gozando 

Danza,  y festeja  a Dios  que  es  poderoso; 

O gozemos  de  esta  gloria , 

Porque  la  humana  vida  es  transitoria .” 

MS.  de  Ixtlilxochitl. 

N etzahualcoyotl  was  the  favorite  hero  of  the  Tezcucans,  and 
some  of  his  wise  sayings  are  still  current  in  the  vernacular. 
Certain  of  his  odes  constitute  epic  poems. 

“ Fernando  de  Alva  Ixtlilxochitl , who  flourished  in  the  beginning  of  th6 
16th  cent.,  was  a native  of  Tezcuco,  and  descended  in  a direct  line  from 
the  sovereigns  of  that  kingdom.  His  mother  was  the  principal  wife,  or 
queen,  of  Netzahualpilli.  He  filled  the  office  of  interpreter  to  the  Viceroy, 
to  which  he  was  recommended  by  his  acquaintance  with  the  ancient 
hieroglyphics  and  his  knowledge  of  the  Mexican  and  Spanish  languages. 
His  birth  gave  him  access  to  persons  of  the  highest  rank  in  his  own 
nation,  some  of  whom  occupied  important  civil  posts  under  the  new 
(Spanish)  government,  and  were  thus  enabled  to  make  large  collections 
of  Indian  manuscripts,  which  were  liberally  opened  to  him.  He  had  an 
extensive  library  of  his  own,  also,  and  with  these  means  diligently  pur- 
sued the  study  of  the  Tezcucan  antiquities-  He  deciphered  the  hierogly- 


LITERATURE 


clvii 


phics,  made  himself  master  of  the  songs  and  traditions,  and  fortified  his 
narrative  by  the  oral  testimony  of  some  very  aged  persons,  who  had 
themselves  been  acquainted  with  the  Conquerors.  From  such  authentic 
sources  he  composed  various  works  in  the  Castilian,  on  the  primitive  his- 
tory of  the  Toltecs  and  the  Tezcucan  races,  continuing  it  down  to  the 
subversion  of  the  empire  by  Cortes.  The  Historia  Chichimeca  is  the  best 
digested  and  most  complete  of  the  whole  series,  and  as  such  has  been 
frequently  consulted  by  historians. 

“ I xtlilxochitl  has  introduced  us  to  the  knowledge  of  the  most  polished 
people  of  New  Spain,  whose  records,  if  preserved,  could  not  at  a much 
later  period,  have  been  comprehended;  and  he  has  thus  afforded  a stand- 
ard of  comparison  which  raises  our  ideas  of  American  civilization.  His 
language  is  simple,  and,  occasionally,  eloquent  and  touching.  His  de- 
scriptions are  highly  picturesque.  He  abounds  in  familiar  anecdote;  and 
the  natural  graces  of  his  manner,  in  detailing  the  more  striking  events  of 
history  and  the  personal  adventures  of  his  heroes,  entitle  him  to  the  name 
of  the  Livy  of  Anahuac.”  (Prescott,  vol.  i,  p.  206.) 

Soon  after  the  Conquest  a rigorous  censorship  was  estab- 
lished over  writers,  and  with  the  advent  of  the  Inquisition 
theological  writings  only  were  tolerated.  While  the  specimens 
of  these  that  have  come  down  to  us  are  interesting  to  antiqua- 
rians and  clerics,  the  motive  was  not  one  through  which  the  gay 
and  bubbling  fancy  of  the  Indian  poet  — whose  themes  were 
usually  the  flowers  and  birds  and  fields  — could  find  satisfac- 
tory vent.  There  was  no  dearth  of  church  historians,  and  to 
some  of  them  we  are  indebted  for  excellent  accounts  of  the 
Spanish  invasion  and  conquest,  and  the  stirring  and  spectacu- 
lar episodes  connected  therewith.  Perhaps  the  best  of  these 
was  Bernal  Diaz , the  recognized  historian  of  the  Conquest, 
whose  Historia  V erdader a de  la  Conquista  has  been  translated 
in  many  languages;  Fray  Toribio  de  Benevente  (called  Moto- 
linia),  whose  Historia  de  los  Indios  and  Historia  Eclesiastica 
give  the  most  thorough  account  of  religious  labors  for  the 
greatest  part  of  the  16th  cent.;  and  Torquemada  (the  leading 
chronicler  of  New  Spain  for  the  16th  cent.),  whose  Monarquia 
Indiana  (printed  at  Sevilla  in  1615)  gives  the  most  complete 
general  history  for  the  century,  of  ecclesiastical,  political,  and 
Indian  affairs.  Other  prominent  historians  were  Fray  Alonzo 
de  la  Rea  ; F . Baltazar  de  Medina , and  Fr.  Geronimo  Mendieta. 
Fray  Bartolome  de  las  Casas , Bishop  of  Chiapa,  “ Protector  Gen- 
eral of  the  Indians,”  and  a historian  of  merit,  was  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  men  of  the  16th  century.  Born  at  Sevilla  in 
1474  (died  1566),  he  devoted  his  life  to  protecting  the  Indi- 
ans of  the  New  World,  and  to  writing  his  admirable  History 
of  the  Indies  ( Historia  V erdader  a de  la  Conquista  de  Nueva 
Espana) : few  documents  on  New  Spain  give  a more  impartial 
account  of  the  Conquest  and  the  treatment  of  the  natives  by 
the  Spaniards.  The  courtly  Herrera  was  also  a figure  of  this 
period:  his  Historia  General,  which  appeared  in  1601,  is  still 
a classic  on  the  early  life  of  New  Spain. 

Collections  of  books  were  not  numerous  during  the  Spanish  rule,  out- 
side of  the  convents,  where  more  or  less  extensive  libraries  were  found, 
almost  wholly  theologic.  Foreign  books  were  strictly  excluded,  and 


clviii 


LITERATURE 


churchmen  discountenanced  light  Spanish  literature:  the  standard  au- 
thors of  Spain  formed  the  nucleus  of  the  sets,  notwithstanding  the  num- 
ber of  local  writers  was  large.  The  circulation  of  prose  fiction  was  re- 
stricted. 

The  first  book  printed  (1536)  in  the  New  World  saw  the  light  in  Mexico 
City;  it  was  Fray  Juan  de  Estrada’s  E sc  ai a E spiritual  parallegar  al  Cielo 
(Spiritual  ladder  for  reaching  Heaven),  translated  from  the  Latin  into 
Spanish  by  the  venerable  Dominican  Friar  Ivan  de  Magdalena.  This 
book  (which  no  longer  exists)  was  printed  more  than  a century  before  the 
first  press  was  established  at  Cambridge,  and  a quarter  of  a century 
before  Shakespeare  was  born. 

The  first  wood -engraving  printed  in  the  New  World  was  the  title-page 
of  Juan  Gerson’s  Tripartite >,  which  appeared  in  1544.  The  first  sheet 
music  came  from  the  same  press  in  1561. 

Two  books  are  said  to  be  extant  with  the  dates  1539  and  1540,  the 
former  being  a Doctrina  Cristiana , the  latter  a Manual  de  Adultos.  Ten 
other  books  printed  before  1550  are  known  to  bibliographers,  and  there 
are  about  70  more  with  dates  of  the  16th  cent.  In  1761  there  were  six 
printing-presses  in  Mexico. 

The  bulk  of  the  books  printed  in  the  16th  cent,  in  America  were 
purely  religious  — and  the  majority  of  them  for  the  instruction  of  the 
Indians  who  were  fast  acquiring  knowledge  in  the  schools  founded  by 
Fray  Pedro  de  Gante  and  his  fellow-missionaries.  There  were  vocabula- 
ries, catechisms,  etc.,  in  .V ahuatl,  Mixtec,  Zapotec , Otomi,  Huaxtec,  Taras- 
can , Zoque,  and  other  dialects;  and  books  of  law,  medicine,  hist  or  y,  and 
the  like,  in  Spanish  and  Latin. 

Prominent  among  noted  Mexicans  of  colonial  times  was 
Carlos  de  Siguenza  y Gongora  (b.  1645;  d.  1700),  who  probably 
established  (in  1693)  the  first  newspaper  (El  Mercurio  Vo- 
lante)  in  New  Spain.  He  was  a poet,  philosopher,  mathemati- 
cian, historian,  antiquarian,  essayist,  journalist,  and  critic, 
and  his  most  valuable  writings  are  still  in  manuscript  form. 

The  leading  chronicler  for  the  17th  cent,  was  Fray  Agustin  de 
Vetancurt,  a Franciscan,  whose  Arte  de  la  LenguaMexicana  was 
published  at  Mexico  City  in  1673,  and  whose  Teatro  Meocicano , 
Description  Breve  de  los  Sucesos  Exemplares,  Histdricos,  Politi- 
cos, Militares  y Religiosos,  appeared  in  Mexico  in  1697-9S. 

Contemporary  with  Vetancurt  were  the  Friars  Baltazar 
Medina  and  Davila  Padilla , both  Mexicans,  and  ranking  as 
Franciscan  and  Dominican  chroniclers  respectively,  and  both 
(says  Bancroft)  verbose  and  involved. 

Perhaps  the  first  Mexican  classic  was  the  Periquillo  Sar- 
niento  of  Jose  Joaquin  Fernandez  de  Lizardi  (b.  1771 ; d. 
1827),  who  wrote  under  the  pseudonym  of  El  Pensador  Mexi- 
cano  — the  Mexican  Thinker.  The  celebrated  literatist  Luis 
Gonzalez  Obregon  pronounces  this  “the  most  Mexican,  the 
most  popular,  and  the  most  transcendental  book  written  in 
Mexico  during  the  19th  century.”  It  was  published  in  Havana 
in  1816  while  the  gifted  author  was  harassed  by  his  country- 
men and  government,  spied  upon  by  suspicious  and  envi- 
ous friars,  and  censured  far  and  wide  by  those  whose  manners 
and  faults  he  faithfully  portrayed.  His  pictures  of  the  na- 
tional characteristics  of  that  epoch  were  so  true  to  the  life  that 
he  became  the  victim  of  political  and  ecclesiastical  persecu- 
tion sustained  enough  to  have  crushed  a less  indomitable 


LITERATURE 


clix 


spirit.  Lizardi  possessed  a quaint  and  original  humor,  marked 
by  sweetness  and  a gentle  irony.  Periquillo  Sarniento,  which 
has  been  referred  to  “ as  one  of  the  wittiest  and  most  delightful 
books  in  the  whole  range  of  Mexican  literature,”  is  generally 
known  as  the  Mexican  Gil  Bias,  and  is  perhaps  a biographical 
sketch  of  the  eventful  life  of  its  author.  With  the  drollery  and 
daring  which  are  ineradicable  Mexican  traits,  Lizardi  pre- 
sented one  of  the  first  copies  of  his  book  to  the  reigning  Vice- 
roy Francisco  Javier  Venegas  — under  the  pretext  of  a felicita- 
tion — and  warmly  urged  him  to  unfrock  the  ambitious  friars 
who,  in  the  guise  of  chaplains,  aided  the  Spaniards  in  the 
fight  against  the  Mexicans  struggling  for  independence.  The 
furious  Viceroy  immediately  ordered  a further  curtailment  of 
what  little  liberty  the  press  had  formerly  enjoyed.  Senor 
Lizardi  was  clapped  into  jail,  where  he  remained  for  six 
months,  and  writers  generally,  whose  theme  was  Spanish  op- 
pression, were  persecuted  with  vigor.  On  his  release  from 
prison  Lizardi  began  the  dissemination  of  a folleto  in  defense  of 
the  Freemasons  ( defensa  delosfranc-masones),  for  which  he 
was  promptly  excommunicated  by  the  Church  in  Mexico.  His 
Letrillas  Satiricas,  which  appeared  from  the  Mexican  press 
at  intervals  between  1810  and  the  publication  of  his  master- 
piece, aroused  a storm  of  indignation  among  the  Spanish 
ecclesiastics,  and  paved  the  way  for  his  exile  later.  Periquillo 
Sarniento  has  passed  through  numerous  editions,  and  it  is  for 
sale  on  almost  every  book-stall  in  the  Mexican  capital.  Its 
witticisms,  localisms,  and  idioms  are  so  essentially  Spanish- 
Mexican  that  a translation  preserving  the  true  flavor  and 
spirit  of  the  book  were  well-nigh  impossible. 

Toward  the  end  of  the  18th  cent,  the  writings  of  the  Jesuits 
Alegre,  Clavigero,  Cavo,  and  Mariano  Veytia  appeared,  and 
imparted  a classic  and  sedate  tone  to  literature.  In  this  cen- 
tury there  also  appeared  a history  worthy  of  note,  by  Mier  y 
Guerra. 

The  most  celebrated  bibliographers  of  New  Spain  have  been 
Eguiara  y Eguren,  Biblioteca  Mexicana,  Mexico,  1755,  and 
Beristain,  Biblioteca  Hispano- Americana  Septentrional,  Mexico, 

1816-21. 

“The  Franciscan,  Manuel  Navarrete,  shone  during  the 
opening  decade  of  the  19th  cent,  with  such  lustre  as  to  win 
him  the  cognomen  of  the  American  swan.  Tenderness  and 
purity  breathed  in  every  line,  as  well  as  religion  and  reflective- 
ness.” The  poet  Tagle  — author  of  an  ode  addressed  to  the 
Army  of  the  Three  Guarantees  — also  wrote  about  this  time, 
but  he  did  little  toward  moulding  the  national  thought.  A 
conspicuous  figure  of  the  period  was  the  picturesque  genius 
Don  Andres  Quintana  Roo,  whose  poetry  was  of  a political 
character  and  quite  as  ardent  as  his  views. 

Carlos  Maria  Bustamante,  an  indefatigable  writer  of  his- 


clx 


LITERATURE 


tories,  flourished  between  1774  and  1835.  Between  1849  and 
1852  Lucas  Alaman  wrote  his  excellent  Historia  de  Mcjico 
and  his  Disertaciones  Sobre  la  Historia  de  la  Republica.  In 
1840  there  came  to  Mexico,  as  the  first  Spanish  representative 
to  Mexico  after  the  successful  War  for  Independence,  Seiior 
Calderon  de  la  Barca , Spain’s  Minister  Plenipotentiary  and 
Envoy  Extraordinary,  bringing  with  him  Spain’s  recognition 
of  Mexico’s  freedom.  Of  peculiar  interest  to  lovers  of  good 
literature  was  the  fact  that  with  him  came  also  his  charming 
English  wife,  wdio,  in  1843,  published  under  the  title  of  Life 
in  Mexico , a truthful  and  delightful  picture  of  the  Mexico  and 
Mexicans  of  that  period.  It  remains  the  best  book  of  its  class. 

For  nearly  half  a century  following  the  War  for  Independ- 
ence Mexico  was  in  an  almost  continuous  political  turmoil, 
which  envenomed  the  minds  of  the  people  and  damped  the 
ardor  of  its  writers.  The  inherent  literary  spirit  spent  itself 
in  lampooning  the  farcical  governments,  in  pasquinades  and 
diatribes  against  the  unpatriotic  aspirants  for  fugitive  political 
honors,  and  in  newspaper  essays  on  the  lives  of  the  few  great 
men  whose  love  for  country  and  whose  militant  spirit  so  fre- 
quently led  to  personal  misfortune,  if  not  early  death.  During 
this  period  the  poet  Manuel  Carpio,  and  the  dramatist  and 
poet  Manuel  Eduardo  Gorostiza , lived  and  worked. 

The  revival  of  literature  coincides  in  Mexico  with  the  early 
dawn  of  its  present  power  and  prosperity.  About  1870 
Manuel  Acuna , poet  and  popular  idol  of  the  poetry-loving 
Mexicans,  sounded  a lyrical  note  which  still  echoes  from 
El  Paso  to  Yucatan.  His  passionate  love-poems  {P  asionarias)  ,l 
of  the  Don  Juan  Tenorio  type,  though  slightly  tinged  with 
erotomania,  are  admirable  expressions  of  a fervid  southern 
nature.  His  regrettable  death  (1873)  by  suicide,  when  still 
young,  over  a love-affair,  idealized  him  in  the  hearts  of  the 
younger  generation.  His  poesias  are  enshrined  in  the  memory 
of,  and  are  quoted  by,  a host  of  admirers. 

The  appearance  in  1886  of  Guillermo  Prieto's  Romancero 
Nacional  proved  to  the  delighted  nation  that  a lyrical  poet 
of  a high  order  had  arisen  — one  yet  to  be  surpassed.  Prieto 
(b.  Feb.  1818;  d.  March  2,  1897)  possessed  a genius  which  em- 
braced the  most  varied  subjects.  With  a muse  that  could 
express  the  most  delicate  shades  of  poetical  thought— -a 
fancy  light  as  thistle-down  — he  also  had  the  ability  to  write 
essays  upon  political  economy,  on  finance,  and  kindred  sub- 
jects that  displayed  “a  soundness  of  judgment  such  as  poets 


1 “ The  strength  of  Mexican  poets  lies  above  all  in  amatory  poems, 
to  which  should  be  added  a tendency  toward  elegiac  strains,  which  was 
so  marked  among  the  aboriginal  ancestry.  While  the  ballad  has  ever 
retained  its  hold  on  popular  taste,  sonnets  were  even  more  frequent  in 
Mexico  than  in  Spain.  Epigrammatic  verse  is  common,  though  inclining 
to  erotic  sentiments.” 


LITERATURE 


clxi 


are  not  usually  supposed  to  have.  As  an  author  of  whimsical 
verse,  as  a poet  of  sentiment,  and,  above  all,  as  a poet  of 
patriotism,  his  work  is  justly  esteemed  as  of  the  best  that 
Mexico  has  produced.  He  was,  in  effect,  the  Mexican  laureate, 
not  because  the  greatest  poet,  but  because  the  most  national. 
His  brilliant  imagination  and  clear  perception  ranged  not 
upon  a borrowed  Parnassus,  but  in  the  no  less  inspiring  and 
much  fresher  Mexico  of  his  day;  and  the  romances  of  his 
Musa  Callejera  (Curbstone  Idyls)  will  never  lose  their  charm. 
They  will  remain  not  only  favorites  of  the  soil,  but  precious 
documents  to  the  historian  and  student  of  manners.  They 
paint  exactly  and  vividly  the  types  of  the  times  now  gone  — 
and  perhaps  nowhere  else  so  well  portrayed  — at  once  the 
china  of  the  beaver  skirts  and  the  sehorita  curst  of  the  tene- 
ments, the  charro  in  wide  calzones  and  sombrero  jarano , and 
the  ignorant  but  supercilious  polio  of  the  aristocracy.’ ’ His 
Memorias  de  Mis  T tempos  and  Lecciones  de  Historia  P atria 
are  of  interest  chiefly  to  Mexicans. 

Prescott’s  work  on  Aztec  culture  roused  many  distinguished 
Mexicans,  and  several  political,  poetical,  and  moralist  writers 
rose  to  prominence  during  the  closing  years  of  the  19th  cen- 
tury. Conspicuous  among  them  were  the  historians  Jose 
M.  Roa  Barcena . Dr.  Eleuterio  Gonzalez  (whose  best-known 
work  is  the  Life  of  Dr.  Mier),  Licentiate  Manuel  Orozco  y 
Berra , whose  monumental  and  admirable  Mejico  a travez 
de  los  Siglos , and  Historia  Antigua  y dela  Conquistade Mexico, 
are  mines  of  erudite  information,  and  for  comprehensiveness 
and  value  perhaps  surpass  any  other  native  effort:  the  aca- 
demician Lie.  Luis  Gutierrez  Otero , and,  finally,  Ignacio  M . 
Altamarino,  a delightful  writer  whose  Rimas  and  Movimiento 
Liter ario  en  Mexico  are  works  of  such  a high  order  that  he  is 
referred  to  as  the  Maestro  of  Mexican  Literature  — since  to 
him,  perhaps,  more  than  to  any  other  single  writer,  Mexican 
literature  of  the  present  day  owes  its  existence.  The  poesias 
of  Jose  Peon  y Contreras , Juan  de  Dios  Peza  (Cantos  del 
Hogar ),  Manuel  Jose  Othon , Juan  Ruiz  de  Alarcon , Vicente 
Riva  Palacio , Juan  Dias  Covarrubias , Manuel  Gutierrez 
Najera,  Isabel  Prieto  de  Landazuri,  Justo  Sierra , and  others 
appeal  to  the  modern  fancy  and  are  widely  read. 

Few  statistical  writers  have  enjoyed  a more  deserved  pop- 
ularity than  the  late  Matias  Romero',  his  Geographical  and 
Statistical  Notes  on  Mexico  (New  York,  1898)  is  valuable  to 
those  interested  in  Mexico’s  resources. 

El  Libro  de  Mis  Recuerdos  (Mex.  1905),  by  the  popular 
writer,  Antonio  Garcia  Cubas,  makes  delightful  reading  for 
those  interested  in  the  Mexico  of  the  period  of  the  American 
invasion  and  of  the  Maximilian  epoch.  Few  Mex.  scholars 
have  shown  more  diligent  and  patient  research  than  Jose 
Marla  Maroqui , whose  three  ponderous  tomes,  La  Ciudad  de 


clxii 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


Mexico  (Mex.  1900),  contain  El  Origin  de  los  nombres  de  muchas 
de  sus  ealles  y plazas,  del  de  varios  establecimientos  piiblicos 
y privados,  y no  pocas  noticias  curiosas  y entretenidas. 

The  score  or  more  works  from  the  indefatigable  pen  of  the 
“ great  documentary  historian5’  Joaquin  Garcia  Icazbalceta, 
treat  of  almost  every  subject  of  popular  interest,  from  the 
Conquest  to  the  present  day.  The  student  interested  in  the 
peculiarities  of  the  various  Indian  dialects  (as  well  as  in 
Indian  and  Mexican  history)  will  find  a mine  of  information 
in  the  5 big  volumes  of  the  Obras  Completas  de  Don  Francisco 
Pimentel  — a monumental  and  erudite  work. 

Those  interested  in  data  relating  to  Vice-regal  days  will 
find  much  to  please  them  in  the  splendid  collection  of  old 
parchments  and  books  in  the  national  archives  in  the  Palacio 
Municipal,  mentioned  at  p.  292.  The  paper  in  some  of  them 
is  made  from  the  fibre  of  the  Agave  Americana  (the  Aztec 
papyrus),  and  in  the  books  dating  as  far  back  as  1524  are 
recorded  the  acts  of  the  first  ayuntamiento  of  the  conquered 
Aztec  city.  Herein  one  sees  names  that  stir  the  blood  and 
recall  heroic  episodes  of  the  Conquest.  The  bindings  of  certain 
of  these  books,  and  their  illuminated  text,  are  things  of  beauty. 
The  library  of  the  Museo  Xacional  is  also  interesting. 

Mexican  literature  of  the  present  century  possesses  no 
definite  character,  although  several  authors  can  bear  com- 
parison with  the  first-class  poets,  novelists,  and  historians  of 
other  lands.  Certain  of  the  Mexicans  are  brilliant  journalists, 
clever  satirists,  novelists,  and  good  writers  of  lyrical  poetry. 
They  excel  as  historians,  and  a fervid  and  sustained  patriot- 
ism adds  charm  to  their  work.  A noteworthy  fact  is  that  the 
men  of  most  pronounced  literary  ability,  those  who  have 
made  a success  in  this  field,  are  usually  prodigious  workers 
along  other  lines,  — politics,  finance,  medicine,  statesmanship, 
and  the  like,  — and  literature  is  with  them  more  a recreation 
than  a profession. 

XV.  History  and  Races. 

“Of  all  that  extensive  empire  which  once  acknowledged 
the  authority  of  Spain  in  the  New  World,  no  portion,  for  inter- 
est and  importance,  can  be  compared  with  Mexico : and  this 
equally,  whether  we  consider  the  variety  of  its  soil  and  cli- 
mate; the  inexhaustible  stores  of  its  mineral  wealth;  its  scene- 
ry, grand  and  picturesque  beyond  example  ; the  character  of 
its  ancient  inhabitants,  not  only  far  surpassing  in  intelligence 
that  of  the  other  North  American  races,  but  reminding  us, 
by  their  monuments,  of  the  primitive  civilization  of  Egypt 
and  Hindustan;  or,  lastly,  the  peculiar  circumstances  of  its 
Conquest,  adventurous  and  romantic  as  any  legend  devised 
by  Norman  or  Italian  bard  of  chivalry.”  (Prescott.) 

“The  merciful  hand  of  Providence  has  bestowed  on  the 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


clxiii 


Mexicans  a magnificent  land,  abounding  in  resources  of  all 
kinds  — a land  where  none  ought  to  be  poor,  and  where  misery 
ought  to  be  unknown  — a land  whose  products  and  riches  of 
every  kind  are  abundant,  and  as  varied  as  they  are  rich. 
It  is  a country  endowed  to  profusion  with  every  gift  that 
man  can  desire  or  envy;  all  the  metals  from  gold  to  lead; 
every  sort  of  climate  from  perpetual  snow  to  tropical  heat, 
and  inconceivable  fertility.  (Lempriere,  Notes  on  Mexico.) 

“The  history  of  ancient  Mexico  is  substantially  that  of  the 
Valley  of  Mexico  (Vale  of  Anahuac),  that  beautiful  spot  where 
once  beat  the  heart  of  the  great  Aztec  Empire.  Midway 
across  the  continent,  somewhat  nearer  the  Pacific  than  the 
Atlantic  Ocean,  it  stands  at  an  elevation  of  nearly  7,500  ft.; 
oval  in  form,  about  37  leagues  in  circumference,  and  encom- 
passed by  a towering  rampart  of  porphyritic  rock,  which 
nature  seems  to  have  provided,  though  ineffectually,  to  pro- 
tect it  from  invasion.  The  soil,  once  carpeted  with  a beautiful 
verdure  and  thickly  sprinkled  with  stately  trees,  is  often  bare, 
and,  in  many  places,  white  with  the  incrustation  of  salts 
caused  by  the  draining  of  the  waters.  Five  lakes  once  spread 
over  the  valley,  occupying  one  tenth  of  its  surface.  On  the 
opposite  border  of  the  largest  of  these  basins  stood  the  cities 
of  Tenochtitldn  and  Tezcuco,  the  capitals  of  the  two  most 
potent  and  flourishing  States  of  Anahuac , whose  history, 
with  that  of  the  mysterious  races  that  preceded  them  in  the 
country,  exhibits  some  of  the  nearest  approaches  to  civiliza- 
tion to  be  met  with  anciently  on  the  North  American  con- 
tinent. 

“Of  these  races  the  most  conspicuous  were  the  Toltecs 
(people  of  Tollan).  Advancing  from  a northerly  direction, 
they  entered  the  territory  of  Anahuac , probably  before  the 
close  of  the  seventh  century.  They  established  their  capital 
at  Tula,  50  M.  north  of  the  Mexican  Valley,  and  the  remains 
of  extensive  buildings  are  to  be  discerned  there  now.  The 
noble  ruins  of  religious  and  other  edifices,  still  to  be  seen  in 
various  parts  of  Mexico,  are  referred  to  this  people,  whose 
name,  Toltec,  has  passed  into  a synonym  for  architect.  They 
were  well  instructed  in  agriculture  and  many  of  the  most  use- 
ful mechanical  arts;  were  nice  workers  of  metal;  invented 
the  complex  arrangement  of  time  adopted  by  the  Aztecs 
(people  of  Aztlan),  and  were  the  true  founders  of  the  civiliza- 
tion which  distinguished  this  part  of  the  continent  in  later 
times.”  (Prescott.) 

After  a period  of  four  centuries  the  Toltecs  disappeared 
from  the  land  as  silently  and  mysteriously  as  they  had  entered 
it.  F rom  their  legends  and  their  shadowy  history  the  belief  has 
been  detached  that  pulque  (p.  lxxxii),  which  was  discovered 
by  them,  caused  their  downfall  and  final  disappearance. 

After  the  lapse  of  another  hundred  years,  a numerous  and 


clxiv 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


rude  tribe,  called  the  Chichimecs  (people  of  Chichimecan  — 
place  of  dogs)  entered  the  deserted  country  from  the  regions 
of  the  far  North-west.* 1  “ They  were  speedily  followed  by  other 
races,  of  higher  civilization,  perhaps  of  the  same  family  with 
the  Toltecs,  whose  language  they  appear  to  have  spoken.  The 
most  noted  of  these  were  the  Aztecs,  or  Mexicans  (Mexico), 
and  the  Acolhuas  (‘people  at  the  bend  of  the  water’).  The 
latter,  better  known  in  later  times  by  the  name  of  Tezcucans 
(from  their  capital,  Tezcuco,  on  the  eastern  border  of  the 
Mexican  lake),  were  peculiarly  fitted,  by  their  comparatively 
mild  religion  and  manners,  for  receiving  the  tincture  of  civil- 
ization which  could  be  derived  from  the  few  Toltecs  that 
still  remained  in  the  country.  This,  in  their  turn,  they  com- 
municated to  the  barbarous  Chichimecs,  a large  portion  of 
whom  became  amalgamated  with  the  new  settlers  as  one 
nation. 

“The  Mexicans  came  also  from  the  remote  regions  of  the 
North  — the  populous  hive  of  nations  in  the  New  World  — 
and  arrived  on  the  borders  of  Anahuac  toward  the  beginning 
of  the  14th  cent.,  some  time  after  the  occupation  of  the  land 
by  the  kindred  races.  For  a long  time  they  did  not  establish 
themselves  in  any  permanent  residence,  but  continued  shifting 
their  quarters  to  different  parts  of  the  Mexican  Valley.  After 
a series  of  wanderings  and  adventures  they  at  length  halted 
on  the  south-western  border  of  the  principal  lake,  in  the  year 
1325.  They  there  beheld,  perched  on  the  stem  of  a prickly 
pear,  which  shot  out  from  the  crevices  of  a rock  that  was 
washed  by  the  waves,  a royal  eagle  of  extraordinary  size  and 
beauty,  wdth  a serpent  in  its  talons,  and  his  broad  wings 
opened  to  the  rising  sun.  They  hailed  the  auspicious  omen, 
announced  by  an  oracle  as  indicating  the  site  of  their  future 
city,  and  laid  its  foundations  by  sinking  piles  into  the  shallows : 
for  the  low  marshes  were  half-buried  under  water.  On  these 
they  erected  their  light  fabrics  of  reeds  and  rushes  (tules), 
and  sought  a precarious  subsistence  from  fishing,  as  well  as 
the  cultivation  of  such  simple  vegetables  as  they  could  raise  on 
their  floating  gardens.  The  place  was  called  Tenochtitlan  2 
in  token  of  its  miraculous  origin,  though  only  known  to  Euro- 
peans by  its  other  name  of  Mexico,  derived  from  their  war- 
god  Mexitli .” 

a.  Montezuma  and  his  Realm.  “After  a lapse  of  two 
centuries  we  find  the  descendants  of  these  people  cemented 
into  a strong  and  partly  civilized  nation,  dwelling  in  palaces,  in 
the  midst  of  a barbaric  pomp  and  splendor  allied  to  the  Ori- 
ental or  Asiatic.  From  his  palace  in  Tenochtitlan  the  King 
Montezuma  wielded  his  sceptre  over  a wade  and  populous 

1 It  is  highly  probable  that  these  were  Chinese. 

1 TcnochixUdn.  from  tell,  stone,  tlan,  on,  and  nochfli . cactus,  is  sup- 

posed aiso  to  have  been  named  for  the  founder  of  the  city,  Tenoch. 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


clxv 


domain.  Many  rich  cities  and  villages  dotted  the  Crown 
possessions,  and  the  annual  tributes  received  therefrom  com- 
prised cotton  dresses  and  mantles  of  feather-work,  exquisitely 
made;  ornamented  armor,  vases  and  plates  of  gold ; gold-dust, 
bands,  and  bracelets;  crystal,  gilt,  and  varnished  jars  and 
goblets;  bells,  arms,  and  utensils  of  copper;  reams  of  maguey 
paper;  grain,  fruits,  copal,  amber,  cochineal,  cacao,  wild 
animals,  and  birds,  timber,  mats,  etc.  Garrisons  were  estab- 
lished in  the  larger  cities,  and  new  territory  was  constantly 
being  added  to  the  already  extensive  domains  of  the  empire. 
Communication  was  maintained  with  the  remotest  parts  of 
the  country  by  means  of  swift  couriers.  Post-houses  were 
established  on  the  great  roads,  about  two  leagues  distant  from 
each  other.  The  courier,  bearing  his  despatches  in  the  form 
of  a hieroglyphical  painting,  ran  with  them  to  the  first 
station,  where  they  were  taken  by  another  messenger  and 
carried  forward  to  the  next,  and  so  on  until  they  reached  the 
capital.  Fresh  fish  was  frequently  served  at  Montezuma’s 
table  in  24  hours  from  the  time  it  had  been  taken  from  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico,  260  miles  from  the  capital. 

“ A vast  army  was  maintained ; the  dress  of  the  warriors 
being  picturesque  and  often  magnificent.  Their  bodies  were 
covered  with  a close  vest  of  quilted  cotton,  so  thick  as  to  be 
impenetrable  to  the  light  missiles  of  Indian  warfare.  This 
garment  was  so  light  and  serviceable  that  it  was  adopted  by 
the  Spaniards.  The  wealthier  chiefs  sometimes  wore  a cuirass 
made  of  thin  plates  of  gold  and  silver.  Over  it  was  thrown  a 
surcoat  of  the  gorgeous  feather-work  in  which  they  excelled. 
Their  helmets  were  sometimes  of  wood,  fashioned  like  the 
heads  of  wild  animals,  and  sometimes  of  silver,  on  the  top  of 
which  waved  a panache  of  variegated  plumes,  sprinkled  with 
precious  stones  and  ornaments  of  gold. 

“They  wore  also  collars,  bracelets,  and  ear-rings  of  the  same  rich  ma- 
terials. Their  weapons  were  the  deadly  maquahuitl  and  the  javelin.  The 
style  and  quality  of  the  dress  of  the  inhabitants  of  Andhuac  were  superior 
to  those  of  the  folks  along  the  seacoast.  The  tilmantli,  or  cloak,  thrown 
over  the  shoulders  and  tied  around  the  neck,  made  of  cotton  of  different 
degrees  of  fineness,  according  to  the  condition  of  the  wearer,  and  the 
ample  sash  around  the  loins,  were  often  wrought  in  rich  and  elegant 
figures  and  edged  with  a deep  fringe  or  tassel.  As  the  weather  grew  cool, 
mantles  of  fur  or  of  the  gorgeous  feather-work  were  sometimes  substi- 
tuted. The  latter  combined  the  advantages  of  great  warmth  and  beauty. 
The  Mexicans  had  also  the  art  of  spinning  a fine  thread  of  the  hair  of  the 
rabbit  and  other  animals,  which  they  wove  into  a delicate  web  that  took 
a permanent  dye. 

“ The  women  wore  several  skirts  or  petticoats  of  different  lengths,  with 
highly  ornamented  borders,  and  sometimes  over  them  loose,  flowing 
robes,  which  reached  to  the  ankles.  These,  also,  were  made  of  cotton,  for 
the  wealthier  classes,  of  a fine  texture,  prettily  embroidered.  The  Aztec 
women  had  their  faces  exposed,  and  their  dark,  raven  tresses  floateo 
luxuriantly  over  their  shoulders,  revealing  features  which,  although  of 
dusky  or  rather  cinnamon  hue,  were  not  unfrequentlv  pleasing,  while 
touched  with  the  serious,  even  sad  expression  characteristic  of  the  national 
physiognomy. 


clxvi 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


“ The  Palace  of  Montezuma  occupied  one  side  of  what  is 
now  the  Plaza  Mayor , of  the  new  city.  This  pile  of  buildings 
spread  over  an  extent  of  ground  so  vast  that,  as  one  of  the 
conquerors  said,  ‘ its  terraced  roof  might  have  afforded  ample 
room  for  thirty  knights  to  run  their  courses  in  a regular 
tourney.’  Its  interior  decorations  were  gorgeous;  its  walls 
were  covered  with  fanciful  draperies,  its  roofs  inlaid  with 
cedar  and  other  odoriferous  woods. 

“The  tianguiz,  or  Great  Market,  was  usually  the  centre 
of  animation  in  ancient  Anahuac,  and  there  the  customs  of  the 
people  could  be  best  observed.  The  market-place  was  sur- 
rounded by  deep  porticoes,  and  the  several  articles  had  each 
its  own  quarter  allotted  to  it.  According  to  Cortes , who  was 
astonished  at  the  multitudes  assembled  there,  the  market- 
place was  thrice  as  large  as  the  celebrated  square  of  Sala- 
manca. Here  might  be  seen  cotton  piled  up  in  bales,  or  manu- 
factured into  dresses  and  articles  of  domestic  use,  as  tapestry, 
curtains,  coverlets,  and  the  like.  The  richly  stained  and  nice 
fabrics  reminded  Cortes  of  the  silk-market  of  Granada.  There 
was  the  quarter  assigned  to  the  goldsmit  hs,  where  the  purchaser 
might  find  various  articles  of  ornament  or  use  formed  of  the 
precious  metals,  or  curious  toys,  made  in  imitation  of  birds 
and  fishes,  with  scales  and  feathers  alternately  of  gold  and 
silver,  and  with  movable  heads  and  bodies.  These  fantastic 
little  trinkets  were  often  garnished  with  precious  stones,  and 
showed  a patient,  puerile  ingenuity  in  their  manufacture,  like 
that  of  the  Chinese. 

“ In  this  market  were  met  together  traders  from  all  pans, 
with  the  products  and  manufactures  peculiar  to  their  coun- 
tries; the  goldsmiths  of  Azcapotzalco , the  potters  and  jewellers 
of  Cholula,  the  painters  of  Tezcuco,  the  stone-cutters  cf  Tena- 
jocan,  the  hunters  of  Xilotepec,  the  fishermen  of  CuitlahucXy 
the  fruiterers  of  the  tierra  caliente,  the  mat  and  chair  makers  of 
Quauhtitlan , and  the  florists  of  Xochimilco,  — all  busily  engaged 
in  recommending  their  wares  and  chaffering  with  purchasers. 

“In  an  adjoining  quarter  were  collected  specimens  of 
pottery,  coarse  and  fine,  vases  of  wood  elaborately  carved, 
varnished  or  gilt,  of  curious  and  sometimes  graceful  forms. 
There  were  also  hatchets  made  of  copper  alloyed  with  tin, 
which  the  natives  used  instead  of  iron.  The  soldier  found  here 
all  the  implements  of  his  trade;  the  casque  fashioned  into  the 
head  of  some  wild  animal,  with  its  grinning  defences  of  teeth, 
and  bristling  crest  dyed  with  the  rich  tint  of  the  cochineal; 
the  escaupil  or  quilted  doublet  of  cotton,  the  rich  surcoat 
of  feather-mail,  and  weapons  of  all  sorts,  copper-headed 
lances  and  arrows,  and  the  broad  ?naquahuitl  with  its  sharp 
blades  of  itzli  (obsidian).  Here  were  razors  and  mirrors  of 
this  same  hard  and  polished  material,  which  served  so  many 
of  the  purposes  of  steel  with  the  Aztecs.  In  the  square  were 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


clxvii 


also  to  be  found  booths  occupied  by  barbers,  who  used  these 
same  razors  in  their  vocation.  For  the  Mexicans,  contrary 
to  the  popular  and  erroneous  notions  respecting  the  aborigines 
of  the  New  World,  had  beards,  though  scanty  ones.  Other 
shops  and  booths  were  tenanted  by  apothecaries,  well  provided 
with  drugs,  roots,  and  different  medicinal  preparations.  In 
other  places  again,  blank  books  or  maps  for  the  hieroglyphical 
picture-writing  were  to  be  seen,  folded  together  like  fans, 
and  made  of  cotton,  skins,  or  more  commonly  the  fibre  of  the 
agave , the  Aztec  papyrus. 

“ Animals,  both  wild  and  tame,  were  offered  for  sale,  and 
near  them,  perhaps,  a gang  of  slaves  with  collars  round  their 
necks,  intimating  they  were  likewise  on  sale.  The  display 
of  provisions  was  also  an  attractive  feature  of  the  great 
tianguiz.  There  were  meats  of  all  kinds,  domestic  poultry, 
game  from  the  neighboring  mountains,  fish  from  the  lakes 
and  streams,  fruits  in  all  the  delicious  abundance  of  these 
temperate  regions,  green  vegetables,  and  the  unfailing  maize. 
There  was  many  a viand,  too,  ready  dressed,  which  sent  up  its 
savory  steams  provoking  the  appetite  of  the  idle  passenger, 
pastry,  bread  of  the  Indian  corn  (maize),  cakes,  and  confec- 
tionery. Along  with  these  were  to  be  seen  cooling  or  stimulat- 
ing beverages,  the  spicy  foaming  chocolatl,  with  its  delicate 
aroma  of  vanilla,  and  the  inebriating  pulque,  the  fermented 
juice  of  the  aloe.  All  these  commodities,  and  every  stall 
and  portico,  were  set  out,  or  rather  smothered,  with  flowers, 
showing  — on  a much  greater  scale,  indeed  — a taste  similar 
to  that  displayed  in  the  modern  markets  of  modern  Mexico. 

“ The  Spaniards  often  visited  the  place,  and  no  one  states 
the  amount  of  people  seen  in  the  tianguiz  at  less  than  forty 
thousand.  Every  fifth  day  the  city  swarmed  with  a motley 
crowd  of  strangers,  not  only  from  the  vicinity,  but  from  many 
leagues  around ; the  causeways  were  thronged,  and  the  lake 
was  darkened  by  canoes  filled  with  traders  flocking  to  the 
great  market.  It  resembled,  indeed,  the  periodical  fairs  in 
Europe,  not  as  they  exist  now,  but  as  they  existed  in  the  Mid- 
dle Ages. 

“There  were  amongst  us,”  says  the  chronicler  Bernal  Diaz, 
“soldiers  who  had  been  in  many  parts  of  the  world,  — in 
Constantinople  and  in  Rome  and  through  all  Italy,  — and 
who  said  that  a market-place  so  large,  so  well  ordered  and 
regulated,  and  so  filled  with  people,  they  had  never  seen.” 

The  Great  Teocalli,  in  the  midst  of  a vast  area  (on  the 
site  of  the  present' cathedral) , was  one  of  the  “sights”  of  the 
ancient  city.  It  was  constructed  by  Ahuizotl,  who  celebrated 
its  dedication,  in  1486,  by  a great  hecatomb  of  victims,  esti- 
mated at  20,000.  It  was  encompassed  by  a wall  of  lime  and 
stone,  about  8 ft.  high,  ornamented  on  the  outer  side  by  figures 
of  serpents  (a  common  emblem  in  the  sacred  sculpture  of 


clxviii 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


Anahuac)  raised  in  relief,  which  gave  it  the  name  of  coatcpantli , 
or  wall  of  serpents.  This  wall,  which  was  quadrangular,  was 
pierced  by  huge,  battlemented  gateways,  opening  on  the 
four  principal  streets  of  the  capital.  Over  each  of  the  gates 
was  a kind  of  arsenal,  filled  with  arms  and  warlike  gear. 
Adjoining,  were  barracks,  garrisoned  by  ten  thousand  soldiers, 
who  served  as  a sort  of  military  police  for  the  capital,  supply- 
ing the  emperor  with  a strong  arm  in  case  of  tumult  or  sedition. 

The  teocaUi  itself  was  a solid  pyramidal  structure  of  earth 
and  pebbles,  coated  on  the  outside  with  hewn  stones.  It  was 
square,  with  its  sides  facing  the  cardinal  points.  It  was  divided 
into  five  bodies  or  stories,  each  one  receding  so  as  to  be  of 
smaller  dimensions  than  that  immediately  below  it.  The 
ascent  was  made  by  a flight  of  steps  on  the  outside,  which 
reached  to  the  narrow  terrace  or  platform  at  the  base  of  the 
second  story,  passing  quite  round  the  building,  when  a second 
stairway  led  to  a similar  landing  at  the  base  of  the  third.  The 
breadth  of  this  walk  was  just  so  much  space  as  was  left  by 
the  retreating  story  next  above  it.  From  this  construction 
the  visitor  was  obliged  to  pass  round  the  whole  edifice  four 
times  in  order  to  reach  the  top.  “This  had  a most  imposing 
effect  in  the  religious  ceremonials,  when  the  pompous  pro- 
cession of  priests  with  their  wild  minstrelsy  came  sweeping 
round  the  huge  sides  of  the  pyramid,  as  they  rose  higher  and 
higher,  in  the  presence  of  gazing  multitudes,  toward  the 
summit.  The  first  object  that  met  the  view  on  reaching  the 
summit,  was  a large  block  of  jasper  — the  identical  sacrificial 
stone  now  preserved  in  the  National  Museum.  At  the  other 
end  of  the  area,  which  was  paved  with  broad  flat  stones,  were 
two  towers  or  sanctuaries,  consisting  of  three  stories,  the 
lower  one  of  stone  and  stucco,  the  two  upper  of  wood  elabor- 
ately carved.  In  the  lower  division  stood  the  images  of  their 
gods;  the  apartments  above  were  filled  with  utensils  for  their 
religious  services,  and  with  the  ashes  of  some  of  their  Aztec 
princes,  who  had  fancied  this  airy  sepulchre.  Before  each 
sanctuary  stood  an  altar,  with  that  undying  fire  upon  it,  the 
extinction  of  which  boded  as  much  evil  to  the  empire  as  that 
of  the  Vestal  flame  would  have  done  in  ancient  Rome.  Here, 
also,  was  the  huge  cylindrical  drum  made  of  serpents’  skins, 
and  struck  only  on  extraordinary  occasions,  when  it  sent  forth 
a melancholy  sound  that  might  be  heard  for  miles,  — a sound 
of  woe  in  after-times  to  the  Spaniards. 

“ From  the  summit  of  the  teocaUi  a splendid  view  of  the  city  ' 
could  be  had.  Below  lay  the  ancient  metropolis  spread  out  i 
like  a map,  with  its  streets  and  canals  intersecting  each  other  j 
at  right  ancles,  its  terraced  roofs  blooming  like  so  many  j 
parterres  of  flowers.  Every  place  seemed  alive  with  business  I 
and  bustle : canoes  glanced  up  and  down  the  canals,  the  streets  j 
were  crowded  with  people  in  their  gay,  picturesque  costumes, 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


clxix 


while  from  the  market-place  a confused  hum  of  many  sounds 
and  voices  rose  upon  the  air.  One  could  distinctly  trace  the 
symmetrical  plan  of  the  city,  with  its  principal  avenues  issu- 
ing, as  it  were,  from  the  four  gates  of  the  coatepantli,  and  con- 
necting themselves  with  the  causeways,  which  formed  the 
grand  entrances  to  the  capital.  This  regular  and  beautiful 
arrangement  was  imitated  in  many  of  the  inferior  towns, 
where  the  great  roads  converged  toward  the  chief  teocalli,  or 
cathedral,  to  a common  focus. 

“ One  could  discern  the  insular  position  of  the  metropolis 
bathed  on  all  sides  by  the  salt  floods  of  the  Tezcuco , and  in 
the  distance  the  clear  fresh  waters  of  the  Chaleo;  far  beyond 
stretched  a wide  prospect  of  fields  and  waving  woods,  with 
the  burnished  walls  of  many  a lofty  temple  rising  high  above 
the  trees  and  crowning  the  distant  hill-tops.  The  view  reached 
in  an  unbroken  line  to  the  very  base  of  the  circular  range  of 
mountains,  whose  frosty  peaks  glittered  as  if  touched  with  fire 
in  the  morning  ray;  while  long,  dark  wreaths  of  vapor,  roll- 
ing up  from  the  hoary  head  of  Popocatepetl , told  that  the  de- 
stroying element  was,  indeed,  at  work  in  the  bosom  of  the 
beautiful  valley. 

“ The  interiors  of  the  sanctuaries  were  incrusted  on  the  sides 
with  stucco,  on  which  various  figures  were  sculptured,  repre- 
senting the  Mexican  calendar  and  the  priestly  ritual.  At  one 
end  of  the  salon  was  a recess  with  a roof  of  timber  richly 
carved  and  gilded.  Before  the  altar  stood  the  colossal  image 
of  Huitzilopochtli , the  tutelary  deity  and  war-god  of  the  Az- 
tecs. His  countenance  was  distorted  into  hideous  lineaments 
of  symbolical  import.  In  his  right  hand  he  wielded  a bow,  and  in 
his  left  a bunch  of  golden  arrows,  which  a mystic  legend  had 
connected  with  the  victories  of  his  people.  The  huge  folds  of 
a serpent,  consisting  of  pearls  and  precious  stones,  were  coiled 
round  his  waist,  and  the  same  rich  materials  were  profusely 
sprinkled  over  his  person.  On  his  left  foot  were  the  delicate 
feathers  of  the  humming-bird,  which,  singularly  enough,  gave 
its  name  to  the  dread  deity.  (Comp.  p.  303.) 

“One  of  the  sanctuaries  was  dedicated  to  a milder  deity. 
This  was  Tezcatlipoca,  next  in  honor  to  that  invisible  Being, 
the  Supreme  God,  who  was  represented  by  no  image  and  con- 
fined by  no  temple.  It  was  Tezcatlipoca  who  created  the  world 
and  watched  over  it  with  a providential  care.  He  was  repre- 
sented as  a young  man,  and  his  image,  of  polished  black  stone, 
was  richly  garnished  with  gold  plates  and  ornaments,  among 
which  a shield  burnished  like  a mirror  was  the  most  characteris- 
tic emblem,  as  in  it  he  saw  reflected  all  the  doings  of  the  world.’ * 

b.  The  Landing  of  the  Spaniards  and  their  March  to 
the  Capital.  The  first  landing  of  the  Spaniards  under  Cortes ,l 


1 The  Great  Conqueror  was  born  at  Medellin,  Province  of  Estrema- 
dura,  Spain,  in  1485.  His  father,  Martin  Cortes  de  Monroy , was  a captain 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


clxx 

on  Mexican  soil,  was  at  Tabasco  on  March  25,  1519.  After  a 
sharp  brush  with  the  natives,  in  which  the  invaders  came  out 
victorious,  they  sailed  along  the  coast  until  they  reached  the 
spot  where  the  castle  of  Sa? i Juan  de  Ulua  now  stands  off  the 
mainland  of  Vera  Cruz.  There  they  cast  anchor  on  the  evening 
of  Thursday  of  Passion  Week;  the  next  morning,  April  21, 
being  Good  Friday,  Cortes  landed,  with  all  his  force,  on  the 


of  infantry.  His  mother  was  Dona  Catalina  Pizarro  Altamarino.  In  1504. 
when  19  years  old,  he  left  Spain  for  Cuba,  where  for  many  years  he  was 
a prominent  figure  in  the  life  of  the  new  Crown  Colony.  He  sailed  for 
Mexico  Feb.  18.  1519,  and  perhaps  no  single  man  ever  exerted  a greater 
influence  on  the  destiny  of  that  country.  He  died  in  the  village  of  Cas- 
tilleja  de  la  Cuesta.  near  Seville  (Spain),  Dec.  2,  1547.  in  the  63d  year 
of  his  age.  His  body  was  transported  to  the  chapel  of  the  monastery  of 
San  Isidro,  in  Seville,  where  it  'was  laid  in  the  family  vault  of  the  Duke  of 
Medina  Sidonia.  In  1562  it  was  removed,  by  order  of  his  son,  Martin,  to 
New  Spain,  not,  as  directed  by  his  will,  to  Coyoacan,  but  to  the  monas- 
tery of  San  Francisco,  in  Tezcuco,  where  it  was  laid  by  the  side  of  a 
daughter,  and  of  his  mother.  In  1629  the  remains  were  again  removed; 
and  on  the  death  of  Don  Pedro,  fourth  “Marquis  of  the  Valley,”  it  was 
decided  by  the  authorities  of  Mexico  to  transfer  them  to  the  church  of 
San  Francisco,  at  the  capital. 

“A  military  and  religious  procession  was  formed  with  the  Archbishop 
of  Mexico  at  its  head.  He  -was  accompanied  by  the  great  dignitaries  of 
the  church  and  state,  and  the  members  of  the  Audiencia.  The  coffin  con- 
taining the  relics  of  Cortes  was  covered  with  black  velvet,  and  supported 
by  the  judges  of  the  royal  tribunals.  On  either  side  of  it  was  a man  in 
complete  armor,  bearing,  on  the  right,  a standard  of  pure  white,  with  the 
arms  of  Castile  embroidered  in  gold,  and,  on  the  left,  a banner  of  black 
velvet,  emblazoned  in  like  manner  with  the  armorial  ensigns  of  the  house 
of  Cortes.  Behind  the  corpse  came  the  Viceroy  and  a numerous  escort  of 
Spanish  cavaliers,  and  the  rear  was  closed  by  a battalion  of  infantry, 
armed  with  pikes  and  arquebuses,  and  -with  their  banners  trailing  on  the 
ground. 

“ With  this  funeral  pomp,  by  the  sound  of  mournful  music,  and  the  slow 
beat  of  the  muffled  drum,  the  procession  moved  forward  till  it  reached 
t he  capital.  The  gates  were  thrown  open  to  receive  the  mortal  remains  of 
the  hero  who,  a century  before,  had  performed  there  such  prodigies  of 
valor.” 

Yet  his  bones  were  not  permitted  to  rest  here  undisturbed ; and  in  1 794 
they  were  removed  to  the  Hospital  de  Jesus  N azareno  (p.  349).  The 
mouldering  relics  of  the  warrior,  now  deposited  in  a crystal  coffin  secured 
by  bars  and  plates  of  silver,  were  laid  in  the  chapel,  and  over  them  was 
raised  a simple  monument,  displaying  the  arms  of  the  family,  and  sur- 
mounted by  a bronze  bust  (by  Tolsa)  of  the  Conqueror. 

In  1 823,  the  patriot  mob  of  the  capital,  in  its  zeal  to  commemorate  the 
era  of  national  independence,  and  its  detestation  of  the  “old  Span- 
iards,” proposed  to  break  open  the  tomb  which  held  the  ashes  of  Cortes 
and  to  scatter  them  to  the  winds  ! The  authorities  declined  to  interfere 
on  the  occasion,  but  the  friends  of  the  family  entered  the  vault  by  night, 
and  secretly  removed  the  relics.  It  is  generally  believed  that  they  are 
now  in  the  family  vault  of  the  Duke  of  Terranova,  at  Palermo,  albeit 
some  persons  insist  that  they  are  still  in  Mexico,  hidden  in  some  place 
unknown  to  the  people. 

The  sword  of  Cortes  and  the  remains  of  the  banner  carried  by  him  in 
the  Conquest  of  Mexico  are  now  in  the  Museo  de  Artilleria  at  Madrid. 

The  student  interested  in  the  exploits  of  the  Great  Captain  should 
consult  Prescott’s  Conquest  of  Mexico;  Bancroft’s  History  of  Mexico; 
(iomara’s  llistoria  de  Mexico  (Gomara  was  the  leading  biographer  of 
?ortc8)\  Bernal  Diaz’s  Yerdadera  Historia  de  la  Conquista ; and  Oviedo’s 
rl istoria  General  de  las  Indias. 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


clxxi 


spot  where  now  stands  the  city  of  Vera  Cruz.  After  a num- 
ber of  interviews  with  envoys  from  Montezuma  and  from  other 
chiefs,  Cortes  determined  to  march  to  the  Aztec  stronghold  — 
an  undertaking  which  historians  refer  to  as  one  of  the  “most 
daring  and  adventurous  in  history;  demonstrating,  in  a high 
degree,  the  calibre  of  those  stern  and  iron- willed  conquerors.” 

Sending  his  fleet,  which  lay  at  anchor  in  the  bay,  to  coast 
along  the  shore  to  the  north  as  far  as  Quiahuiztlan,  Cortes  vis- 
ited in  person  the  town  of  Cempoalla,  made  allies  of  the  Toto- 
nacs  there,  then  returned  to  Vera  Cruz  to  complete  arrange- 
ments previous  to  his  departure  for  the  capital.  Recalling  his 
ships,  he  brought  on  shore  the  cordage,  sails,  iron,  etc.,  and 
ordered  these  to  be  sunk.  Then  this  little  handful  of  men,  on  a 
hostile  shore  and  arrayed  against  a formidable  empire,  turned 
their  faces  toward  the  interior.  To  Mexico!  was  the  cry.  “The 
destruction  of  his  fleet  by  Cortes  is  perhaps  the  most  remark- 
able passage  in  the  life  of  this  remarkable  man.  It  was  an 
act  of  resolution  that  has  few  parallels  in  history.” 

When  Cortes  set  out  from  the  Totonac  capital,  his  forces 
amounted  to  400  foot  and  15  horse,  with  7 pieces  of  artillery. 
From  the  cacique  of  Cempoalla  he  obtained  1300  warriors, 
and  a thousand  tamanes , or  porters,  to  drag  the  guns  and 
transport  the  baggage.  He  took  forty  more  of  their  principal 
men  as  hostages,  as  well  as  to  guide  him  on  his  way  and 
to  serve  by  their  counsels  among  the  savage  tribes  he  was  to 
visit. 

“ It  would  be  difficult  to  depict  the  impressions  of  the  Span- 
iards as  they  stood,  one  beautiful  morning,  and  gazed  from  the 
crest  of  the  Sierra  de  Ahualco  over  the  Valley  of  Mexico, 
Stretching  far  away  at  their  feet  were  seen  noble  forests  of 
oak,  sycamore,  and  cedar,  and  beyond,  yellow  fields  of  maize 
and  the  towering  maguey,  intermingled  with  orchards  and 
blooming  gardens.  In  the  centre  of  the  great  basin  were  beheld 
the  lakes,  their  borders  thickly  studded  with  towns  and 
hamlets,  and  in  the  midst  — like  some  fair  empress  with  her 
coronal  of  pearls  — the  fair  city  of  Mexico,  with  her  white 
towers  and  her  pyramidal  temples,  reposing,  as  it  were,  on  the 
bosom  of  the  waters  — the  far-famed  ‘ Venice  of  the  Aztecs.’ 

“The  8th  of  Nov.  was  a conspicuous  day  in  the  history  of 
Mexico.  With  the  first  faint  streaks  of  dawn,  the  Spanish 
general  was  up,  mustering  his  followers.  They  gathered,  with 
beating  hearts,  under  their  respective  banners,  as  the  trumpet 
sent  forth  its  spirit-stirring  sounds  across  the  water  and  wood- 
land, till  they  died  in  distant  echoes  among  the  mountains. 
Cortes  with  his  little  body  of  horse  formed  a sort  of  advance 
guard  to  the  army.  Then  came  the  Spanish  infantry.  The 
baggage  occupied  the  centre ; and  the  rear  was  closed  by  the 
dark  files  of  Tlascalan  (p.  429)  warriors.  The  whole  number 
was  short  of  7,000 ; of  which  less  than  400  were  Spaniards. 


clxxii 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


“For  a short  distance,  the  army  kept  along  the  narrow 
tongue  of  land  which  separates  the  Tezcucan  from  the  Chalcan 
waters,  when  it  entered  on  the  great  dike  (now  the  Tlalpan 
causeway),  which,  with  the  exception  of  an  angle  near  the 
commencement,  stretched  in  a perfectly  straight  line  across 
the  salt  Hoods  of  Tezcuco  to  the  gates  of  the  capital. 

“ The.  Spaniards  had  occasion  more  than  ever  to  admire  the 
mechanical  science  of  the  Aztecs,  in  the  geometrical  precision 
with  which  the  work  was  executed,  as  well  as  the  solidity  of 
its  construction.  It  was  composed  of  huge  stones  well  laid  in 
cement,  wide  enough  throughout  its  whole  extent  for  ten 
horsemen  to  ride  abreast. 

“ Everywhere  the  invaders  beheld  the  evidence  of  a crowded 
and  thriving  population.  The  temples  and  principal  buildings 
of  the  adjacent  cities  were  covered  with  a hard  white  stucco, 
which  glistened  like  enamel  in  the  level  beams  of  the  morning 
sun.  The  margin  of  the  great  basin  was  thickly  gemmed  with 
towns  and  hamlets.  The  water  was  darkened  by  swarms  of 
canoes  filled  with  Indians,  who  clambered  up  the  sides  of  the 
causeway  and  gazed  with  astonishment  at  the  strangers.  The 
white-skinned  warriors  in  their  glittering  armor,  the  mail- 
clad  horses  which  resembled  gigantic  demons  to  the  timid 
Indians,  the  camp  equipages  and  all  the  glittering  parapher- 
nalia of  Spanish  accoutrement,  presented  a terrific  sight  to 
the  amazed  Indians,  and  awed  them  into  a wondering  silence. 
At  the  distance  of  half  a league  from  the  capital,  they  encoun- 
tered a solid  work  or  curtain  of  stone,  which  traversed  the 
dike.  It  was  12  ft.  high,  was  strengthened  by  towers  at  the 
extremities,  and  in  the  centre  was  a battlemented  gateway, 
which  opened  a passage  to  the  troops.  It  was  called  the  Fort 
of  Xoloc,  and  became  memorable  in  after-times  as  the  position 
occupied  by  Cortes  in  the  famous  siege  of  Mexico. 

“ Here  they  were  met  by  several  hundred  Aztec  chiefs,  who 
came  out  to  announce  the  approach  of  Montezuma,  and  to 
welcome  the  Spaniards  to  the  capital.  They  were  dressed  in 
the  fanciful  gala  costume  of  the  country,  with  the  maxtlatl , 
or  cotton  sash,  around  their  loins,  and  a broad  mantle  of  the 
same  material,  or  of  the  brilliant  feather  embroidery,  flowing 
gracefully  down  from  their  shoulders.  On  their  necks  and 
arms  they  displayed  collars  and  bracelets  of  turquois  mosaic, 
with  which  delicate  plumage  was  curiously  mingled,  while  their 
ears,  under  lips,  and  occasionally  their  noses,  were  garnished 
with  pendants  formed  of  precious  stones,  or  crescents  of  fine 
gold.  Shortly  the  Spaniards  beheld  the  glittering  retinue  of 
the  emperor  emerging  from  the  great  street  which  led  then, 
as  it  still  does,  through  the  heart  of  the  city.  Amidst  a crowd 
of  Indian  nobles,  preceded  by  three  officers  of  state  bearing 
golden  w^ands,  they  sawT  the  royal  palanquin  blazing  with 
burnished  gold.  It  was  borne  on  the  shoulders  of  nobles,  and 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


clxxiii 


over  it  a canopy  of  gaudy  feather-work,  powdered  with  jewels 
and  fringed  with  silver,  was  supported  by  four  attendants  of 
the  same  rank. 

“ Montezuma  wore  the  girdle  and  ample  square  tilmatli 
of  his  nation.  It  was  made  of  the  finest  cotton,  with  the  em- 
broidered ends  gathered  in  a knot  round  his  neck.  His  feet 
were  defended  by  sandals  having  soles  of  gold,  and  the  leath- 
ern thongs  which  bound  them  to  his  ankles  were  embossed 
with  the  same  metal.  Both  the  cloak  and  sandals  were 
sprinkled  with  pearls  and  precious  stones,  among  which  the 
emerald  and  the  chalchihuitl  — a green  stone  [jadeite]  of  high- 
er estimation  than  any  other  among  the  Aztecs  — were  con- 
spicuous. On  his  head  he  wTore  no  other  ornament  than  a 
'panache  of  plumes  of  the  royal  green,  which  floated  down  his 
back,  the  badge  of  military,  rather  than  of  regal,  rank.1 

“When  the  train  had  come  within  a convenient  distance, 
it  halted,  and  Montezuma,  descending  from  his  litter,  came 
forward,  leaning  on  the  arms  of  the  lords  of  Tezcuco  and 
Iztapalapan  — his  nephew  and  brother.  As  the  monarch 
advanced  under  the  canopy,  the  obsequious  attendants  strewed 
the  ground  with  cotton  tapestry,  that  his  imperial  feet  might 
not  be  contaminated  by  the  rude  soil. 

“ The  Spanish  army  halted  as  he  drew  near.  Cortes , dis- 
mounting, threw  his  rein  to  a page,  and,  supported  by  a few 
of  his  principal  cavaliers,  advanced  to  meet  him.  The  inter- 
view must  have  been  one  of  uncommon  interest  to  both. 
Whatever  may  have  been  the  monarch’s  feelings,  he  so  far 
suppressed  them  as  to  receive  this  guest  with  princely  court- 
esy, and  to  express  his  satisfaction  at  personally  seeing  him 
in  his  capital. 

“ Cortes  responded  by  the  most  profound  expressions  of 
respect,  while  he  made  ample  acknowledgments  for  the  sub- 
stantial proofs  which  the  emperor  had  given  the  Spaniards 
of  his  munificence.  He  then  hung  round  Montezuma’s  neck 
a sparkling  chain  of  colored  crystal.  After  the  interchange  of 
these  civilities,  Montezuma  appointed  his  brother  to  conduct 
the  Spaniards  to  their  residence  in  the  capital,  and,  again 
entering  his  litter,  was  borne  off  amidst  prostrate  crowds, 
in  the  same  state  in  which  he  had  come.  The  Spaniards 
quickly  followed,  and  with  flying  colors  and  music,  soon  made 
their  entrance  into  the  southern  quarter  of  Tenochtitldn . 

“Here  again  they  found  fresh  cause  for  admiration  in  the 
grandeur  of  the  city  and  the  superior  style  of  its  architecture. 
The  great  avenue  through  which  they  were  now  marching  was 

1 “ Montezuma  was  at  this  time  about  40  years  of  age.  His  person  was 
tall  and  thin,  but  not  ill  made.  His  hair,  which  was  black  and  straight, 
was  not  very  long.  His  beard  was  thin,  his  complexion  paler  than  is  often 
found  in  his  dusky  race.  His  features,  though  serious  in  expression,  did 
not  wear  the  look  of  melancholy  which  characterizes  his  portrait.”  (Pres- 
cott, Conquest  of  Mexico.)  (Compare  p.  clxxxii.) 


clxxiv 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


lined  with  the  houses  of  the  nobles.  They  were  built  of  a red, 
porous  stone  drawn  from  quarries  in  the  neighborhood.  The 
flat  roofs  ( azoteas ) were  protected  by  stone  parapets,  so  that 
every  house  was  a fortress.  Occasionally  a great  square  or 
market-place  intervened,  surrounded  by  its  porticoes  of  stone 
and  stucco ; or  a pyramidal  temple  reared  its  colossal  bulk. 

“What  impressed  the  Spaniards  most  were  the  throngs  of 
people  who  swarmed  through  the  streets  and  on  the  canals, 
filling  every  doorway  and  window,  and  clustering  on  the  roofs 
of  the  buildings.  Strange  thoughts  must  have  filled  the  Aztec 
minds  as  the  inhabitants  gazed  on  the  portentous  pageant; 
as  they  heard  for  the  first  time  the  well-cemented  pavement 
ring  under  the  iron  tramp  of  the  horses  — the  strange  animals 
which  fear  had  clothed  in  such  supernatural  terrors;  as  they 
gazed  on  the  children  of  the  East,  revealing  their  celestial 
origin  in  their  fair  complexions ; saw  the  bright  falchions  and 
bonnets  of  steel,  a metal  to  them  unknown,  glancing  like 
meteors  in  the  sun,  while  sounds  of  unearthly  music  — at  least, 
such  as  their  rude  instruments  had  never  wakened  — floated 
in  the  air ! But  every  other  emotion  wras  lost  in  that  of  deadly 
hatred,  when  they  beheld  their  detested  enemy  the  Tlascalan 
stalking,  in  defiance,  as  it  were,  through  their  streets,  and 
staring  around  with  looks  of  ferocity  and  wonder,  like  some 
wild  animal  of  the  forest  who  had  strayed  by  chance  from  his 
native  fastnesses  into  the  haunts  of  civilization. 

“ As  they  passed  down  the  spacious  streets,  the  troops 
repeatedly  traversed  bridges  suspended  above  canals,  along 
which  they  saw  the  Indian  barks  gliding  swiftly  with  their 
little  cargoes  of  fruits  and  vegetables  for  the  markets  of 
Tenochtitldn.  At  length  they  halted  before  a broad  area  near 
the  centre  of  the  city,  where  rose  the  huge  pyramidal  pile 
dedicated  to  the  patron  war-god  of  the  Aztecs,  second  only, 
in  size  as  well  as  sanctity,  to  the  temple  of  Cholula,  and  cover- 
ing the  same  ground  now  in  part  occupied  by  the  great  Cathe- 
dral of  Mexico. 

“ Facing  the  western  gate  of  the  enclosure  of  the  temple 
stood  a low  range  of  stone  buildings,  spreading  over  a wide  ex- 
tent of  ground,  the  palace  of  Axayaccitl,  Montezuma’s  father, 
built  by  that  monarch  about  fifty  years  before.  It  was  ap- 
propriated as  the  barracks  of  the  Spaniards.  The  emperor 
himself  was  in  the  court-yard  waiting  to  receive  him.  Ap- 
proaching Cortes , he  took  from  a vase  of  flowers,  borne  by 
one  of  his  slaves,  a massy  collar,  in  which  the  shell  of  a species 
of  craw-fish,  much  prized  by  the  Indians,  was  set  in  gold  and 
connected  by  heavy  links  of  the  same  metal.  From  this  chain 
depended  eight  ornaments,  also  of  gold,  made  in  resemblancf 
of  the  same  shell-fish,  a span  in  length  each,  and  of  delicate 
workmanship.  Montezuma,  as  he  hung  the  gorgeous  collai 
round  the  general’s  neck,  said,  ‘This  palace  belongs  to  you, 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


clxxv 


Malinche,  and  your  brethren.  Rest  after  your  fatigues,  for 
you  have  much  need  to  do  so,  and  in  a little  while  I will  visit 
you  again.’  So  saying,  he  withdrew  with  his  attendants, 
evincing  in  this  act  a delicate  consideration  not  to  have  been 
expected  in  a barbarian. 

“On  a subsequent  visit  to  Cortes,  Montezuma  made  many 
inquiries  concerning  the  country  of  the  Spaniards,  their 
sovereign,  the  nature  of  his  government,  and  especially  their 
own  motives  in  visiting  Anahuac ..  Cortes  explained  these 
motives  by  the  desire  to  see  so  distinguished  a monarch  and 
to  declare  to  him  the  true  Faith  professed  by  the  Christians.” 

c.  The  Spaniards  in  Tenochtitlan.  “The  Spaniards  had 
not  been  long  in  the  Aztec  capital  before  the  true  object  of 
their  visit  became  apparent  to  the  Mexicans.  Their  insatiable 
greed  of  gold  and  their  religious  intolerance  were  ever  in  evi- 
dence. Cortes  and  his  priests  lost  no  opportunity  to  preach 
salvation  and  the  cross  to  their  unwilling  host ; nor  did  they 
fail  to  treat  the  natives  with  that  lofty  contempt  from  which 
ecclesiastical  missionaries  of  to-day  are  not  always  free.  If 
Montezuma  was  steeped  in  the  superstitions  of  his  country, 
the  iron-willed  conqueror  was  no  less  bigoted.  Neither  cared 
to  yield,  and  the  apparent  peace  was  illusory,  and  was  main- 
tained only  by  fear  and  force  of  arms.  The  unfailing  hospi- 
tality of  Montezuma,  and  his  princely  gifts,  failed  to  awaken 
a feeling  of  gratitude  in  the  breast  of  the  Spaniard ; they  but 
whetted  his  appetite.  The  final  seizure  of  the  emperor  as  a 
hostage  against  any  treacherous  act  on  the  part  of  the  natives, 
and  the  confiscation  of  the  imperial  treasure,  were  measures 
which  so  incensed  the  Aztecs  that  it  required  all  Montezuma’s 
authority  to  restrain  their  impatience.” 

The  middle  of  May,  1520,  six  months  after  the  entrance  of 
the  Spaniards  into  Mexico,  was  the  beginning  of  a long  series 
of  misfortunes  for  the  invading  army.  For  reasons  of  safety, 
Cortes  deemed  it  advisable  to  quit  Tenochtitlan , descend  to 
the  coast,  and  settle  an  account  of  long  standing  with  Panfilo 
de  Narvaez , a political  enemy  who  had  just  landed  on  Mexican 
soil  with  a squadron  of  18  vessels,  a large  number  of  men,  and 
military  stores;  the  object  of  the  expedition  being  to  capture 
Cortes , supersede  him,  and  return  him  to  Spain  to  answer 
charges  which  would  be  submitted  to  him  by  the  Spanish  Court. 

With  his  usual  good  fortune  Cortes  defeated  Narvaez , won 
over  his  men,  possessed  himself  of  the  equipment,  and  with 
the  reinforcements  started  back  to  the  capital.  On  leaving, 
he  had  placed  the  city  under  the  charge  of  Alvarado,  with 
a garrison  of  140  men,  all  the  artillery,  the  greater  part  of 
the  little  band  of  horse,  and  the  arquebusiers.  But  when  the 
victorious  general  and  his  recruits  reached  the  highlands  and 
began  the  descent  into  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  their  reception 
by  the  natives  was  significant.  “No  one  came  forth  to  greet 


clxxvi 


HISTORY  AXD  RACES 


them ; supplies  were  granted  with  an  ungracious  air,  and  the 
general  began  to  entertain  uncomfortable  apprehensions 
respecting  the  fate  of  the  garrison  in  Mexico.  But  his  doubts 
were  soon  dispelled  by  the  arrival  of  a messenger  in  a canoe, 
from  the  city,  whence  he  had  escaped.  He  brought  de- 
spatches from  Alvarado , informing  his  commander  that  for 
the  last  fortnight  the  garrison  had  suffered  greatly  from  the 
Mexican  blockade,  but  he  hoped  tranquillity  would  be  restored 
on  the  approach  of  his  countrymen.  Montezuma  sent  a mes- 
senger also,  to  the  same  effect  No  effort  was  made  by  the 
Mexicans  to  bar  the  entry  of  the  Spaniards,  and  with  sad- 
dened feelings  they  reached  the  great  gate  of  the  palace  of 
Axayacatl.  The  gates  were  thrown  open,  and  Cortes  and  his 
veterans  rushed  in  and  were  cordially  embraced  by  their 
companions  in  arms. 

“The  first  inquiries  of  the  general  were  respecting  the  ori- 
gin of  the  tumult.  The  accounts  were  various,  but  all  agreed 
in  tracing  the  immediate  cause  to  the  violence  of  Alvarado. 

“ It  was  common  for  the  Aztecs  to  celebrate  an  annual  festival  in  May 
in  honor  of  their  war-god.  It  was  held  in  the  court  of  the  teocalli  in  the 
immediate  neighborhood  of  the  Spanish  quarters.  They  assembled  on  the 
day  appointed,  to  the  number  of  six  hundred.  They  were  dressed  in  their 
most  magnificent  gala  costumes,  and  at  their  special  request,  Montezuma 
was  present.  Alvarado  and  his  soldiers  attended  as  spectators.  The  Az- 
tecs were  soon  engrossed  in  the  exciting  movements  of  the  dance,  accom- 
panied by  their  religious  chants  and  wild,  discordant  minstrelsy.  While 
thus  occupied,  Alvarado  and  his  men,  at  a concerted  signal,  rushed  with 
drawn  swords  on  their  victims.  Unprotected  by  armor  or  weapons  of  any 
kind,  they  were  hewn  down  without  resistance  by  their  assailants,  who 
showed  np  pity  or  compunction.  Some  fled  to  the  gates,  but  were  caught 
on  the  long  pikes  of  the  soldiers.  Others  who  attempted  to  scale  the  Wall 
of  Serpents,  which  surrounded  the  area,  shared  the  like  fate,  or  were  cut 
to  pieces  by  the  ruthless  soldiery.  The  pavement  ran  with  streams  of 
blood.  Not  an  Aztec,  of  all  that  gay  company,  was  left  alive  ! Not  con- 
tent with  slaughtering  their  victims,  the  Spaniards  rifled  them  of  the 
precious  ornaments  on  their  persons ! On  this  sad  day  fell  the  flower  of 
the  Aztec  nobility.  Not  a family  of  note  but  had  mourning  and  desola- 
tion brought  within  its  walls.  Many  a doleful  ballad,  rehearsing  the  in- 
cidents of  the  story,  and  adapted  to  the  plaintive  national  airs,  continued 
to  be  chanted  by  the  natives  long  after  the  subjugation  of  the  country. 

“No  sooner  was  the  butchery  accomplished  than  the  tidings  spread 
like  wild-fire  through  the  capital.  Men  could  scarcely  credit  their  senses. 
All  they  had  hitherto  suffered,  the  desecration  of  their  temples,  the  im- 
prisonment of  their  sovereign,  the  insults  heaped  on  his  person,  all  were 
forgotten  in  this  one  act.  Every  feeling  of  long-smothered  hostility  and 
rancor  now  burst  forth  in  the  cry  for  vengeance.  The  city  rose  in  arms  to 
a man;  and  on  the  following  dawn,  almost  before  the  Spaniards  could 
secure  themselves  in  their  defences,  they  were  assaulted  with  desperate 
fury.  Some  of  the  assailants  attempted  to  scale  the  walls;  others  suc- 
ceeded in  partially  undermining  and  setting  fire  to  the  works.  But  at  the 
prayers  of  the  garrison,  Montezuma  himself  interfered,  and,  mounting 
the  battlements,  addressed  the  populace,  whose  fury  he  endeavored  to 
mitigate  by  urging  considerations  for  his  own  safety.  They  respected 
their  monarch  so  far  as  to  desist  from  further  attempts  to  storm  the  for- 
tress. but  they  threw  up  works  around  the  palace  to  prevent  the  egress  of 
the  Spaniards.  They  suspended  the  enemy’s  supplies,  then  they  quietly 
sat  down,  with  feelings  of  sullen  desperation,  waiting  for  the  hour  when 
famine  should  throw  their  victims  into  their  hands. 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


clxxvii 


u Cortes  listened  calmly  to  the  explanation  made  by  Alvarado. 
But,  before  it  was  ended,  he  was  convinced  that  he  had  made 
a wrong  selection  for  this  important  post.  Yet  the  mistake 
was  natural.  Alvarado  was  a cavalier  of  high  family,  gallant, 
and  his  warm  personal  friend.  He  had  talents  for  action,  was 
possessed  of  firmness  and  intrepidity,  while  his  frank  and 
dazzling  manner  made  the  Tonatiuh,  as  he  was  called  by  the 
Mexicans,  a special  favorite  with  them.  But  underneath  this 
showy  exterior  the  future  conqueror  of  Guatemala  concealed 
a heart  rash,  rapacious,  and  cruel. 

“ When  Alvarado  had  concluded  his  answers  to  the  several 
interrogatories  of  Cortes , the  brow  of  the  latter  darkened,  as 
he  said  to  his  lieutenant,  ‘ You  have  been  false  to  your  trust. 
Your  conduct  has  been  that  of  a madman!  ’ And,  turning 
abruptly  on  his  heel,  he  left  him  in  undisguised  displeasure. 

“ On  the  day  that  Cortes  arrived,  Montezuma  left  his  quar- 
ters to  welcome  him.  But  the  Spanish  commander  received 
him  coldly.  Their  relations  were  now  those  of  prisoner  and 
jailer.  In  order  to  quiet  the  revolt  of  the  people,  Cortes  re- 
leased Montezuma’s  brother,  Cuitlahua,  lord  of  Iztapalapan. 
He  was  a bold,  ambitious  prince,  and  the  injuries  he  had  re- 
ceived from  the  Spaniards  rankled  deep  in  his  bosom.  He 
was  an  experienced  warrior,  and  instead  of  quieting  the  popu- 
lace he  immediately  exerted  himself  to  arrange  a definite  plan 
of  operations  against  the  intruders. 

“The  Spaniards  were  not  kept  in  suspense.  The  Aztecs 
made  a desperate  assault  on  the  Spanish  barracks,  bombard- 
ing them  with  a tempest  of  missiles  — stones,  darts,  and  ar- 
rows — which  fell  thick  as  rain  on  the  besieged.  The  ferocity 
shown  by  the  Mexicans  seems  to  have  been  something  for  which 
Cortes  was  wholly  unprepared.  They  fought  furiously  through- 
out the  day,  and  the  ancient  walls  of  Tenochtitldn  shook  under 
the  thunders  of  the  artillery,  the  fierce  battle-cries  of  the  com- 
batants, the  hissing  sound  of  Indian  missiles,  and  the  shrieks 
of  the  wounded  and  dying.  Believing  that  the  temporary 
ebullition  of  the  populace  would  soon  waste  itself  by  its  own 
fury,  Cortes  determined  to  sally  out  on  the  following  day  and 
inflict  such  a chastisement  on  his  foes  as  should  bring  them 
to  their  senses  and  show  who  was  master  of  the  capital. 

“With  early  dawn  the  Spaniards  were  up  and  under  arms. 
As  the  gray  light  of  morning  advanced,  it  showed  the  besieg- 
ing army,  filling  up  the  great  square  and  neighboring  avenues 
in  more  dense  array  than  on  the  preceding  evening.  Before 
the  sun  had  shot  his  beams  into  the  Castilian  quarters,  the 
enemy  were  in  motion.  The  Spanish  commander  determined 
to  anticipate  them  by  a vigorous  sortie,  for  which  he  had 
llready  made  the  necessary  dispositions. 

“ A general  discharge  of  ordnance  and  musketry  sent  death 
far  and  wide  in  the  enemy’s  ranks,  and,  before  they  had  time  to 


clxxviii 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


recover  from  their  confusion,  the  gates  were  thrown  open,  and 
Cortes , sallying  out  at  the  head  of  his  cavalry,  supported  by 
a large  body  of  infantry  and  several  thousand  Tlascalans,  rode 
at  full  gallop  against  them.  Taken  thus  by  surprise,  it  was 
scarcely  possible  to  offer  much  resistance.  Those  who  did  were 
trampled  down  under  the  horses’  feet,  cut  to  pieces  with  the 
broadswords,  or  pierced  with  the  lances  of  the  riders.  The 
infantry  followed  up  the  blow,  and  the  rout  for  the  moment 
was  general. 

“Rallying  on  the  other  side  of  a barricade  which  had  been 
thrown  across  the  street,  the  Aztecs  poured  in  turn  a volley 
of  their  light  weapons  on  the  Spaniards,  who,  saluted  with  a 
storm  of  missiles  at  the  same  time  from  the  terraces  of  the 
houses,  were  thrown  into  some  disorder  and  checked  in  their 
career.  The  canals  were  alive  with  boats  filled  with  warriors, 
who  with  their  formidable  darts  searched  every  crevice  or 
weak  place  in  the  armor  proof,  and  made  havoc  on  the  unpro- 
tected bodies  of  the  Tlascalans.  By  repeated  and  vigorous 
charges  the  Spaniards  succeeded  in  driving  the  Indians  be- 
fore them,  though  many,  with  a desperation  which  showed 
they  loved  vengeance  better  than  life,  sought  to  embarrass  the 
movements  of  their  horses  by  clinging  to  their  legs,  or,  more 
successfully,  strove  to  pull  the  riders  from  their  saddles. 
And  woe  to  the  unfortunate  cavalier  who  was  thus  dis- 
mounted,— to  be  despatched  by  the  brutal  maquahuitl,  or  to 
be  dragged  on  board  a canoe  to  the  bloody  altar  of  sacrifice ! 

“ But  the  greatest  annoyance  which  the  Spaniards  endured 
was  from  the  hail  of  missiles  from  the  azoteas , consisting 
often  of  large  stones,  hurled  with  a force  that  would  tumble 
the  stoutest  rider  from  the  saddle.  Galled  in  the  extreme  by 
these  discharges,  against  which  even  their  shields  afforded 
no  adequate  protection,  Cortes  ordered  fire  to  be  set  to  the 
buildings.  But  the  buildings  stood  separated  from  one  an- 
other by  canals  and  drawbridges,  so  that  the  flames  did  not 
easily  communicate  to  the  neighboring  edifices.  Hence  the 
labor  of  the  Spaniards  was  incalculably  increased,  and  their 
progress  in  the  work  of  destruction  was  comparatively  slow. 

“They  did  not  relax  their  efforts,  however,  till  several  hun- 
dred houses  had  been  consumed,  and  the  miseries  of  a con- 
flagration, in  which  the  wretched  inmates  perished  equally 
with  the  defenders,  were  added  to  the  other  horrors  of  the 
scene.  But  the  Aztecs  could  better  afford  the  loss  of  a hundred 
lives  than  their  antagonists  that  of  one.  And,  while  the  Span- 
iards showed  an  array  broken  and  obviously  thinned  in  num- 
bers, the  Mexican  army,  swelled  by  the  tributary  levies  which 
flowed  in  upon  it  from  the  neighboring  streets,  exhibited, 
with  all  its  loss,  no  sign  of  diminution.  At  length,  sated  with 
;amage,  and  exhausted  by  toil  and  hunger,  the  Spanish  com- 
mander drew  off  his  men  and  sounded  a retreat.” 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


clxxix 


Storming  of  the  Great  Teocalli.  “ Opposite  the  Span- 
ish quarters,  at  only  a few  rods  distance,  stood  the  great 
teocalli  of  Huitzilopochtli.  This  pyramidal  mound,  with  the 
sanctuaries  that  crowned  it,  rising  altogether  to  the  height 
of  near  150  ft.,  afforded  an  elevated  position  that  completely 
commanded  the  palace  of  Axayacatl.  occupied  by  the  Christ- 
ians. A body  of  five  or  six  hundred  Mexicans,  many  of  them 
nobles  and  warriors  of  the  highest  rank,  had  got  possession 
of  the  teocalli,  whence  they  discharged  such  a tempest  of  arrows 
on  the  garrison  that  no  one  could  leave  his  defences  for  a 
moment  without  imminent  danger ; while  the  Mexicans,  under 
shelter  of  the  sanctuaries,  were  entirely  covered  from  the  fire 
of  the  besieged.  It  was  obviously  necessary  to  dislodge  the 
enemy,  if  the  Spaniards  would  remain  longer  in  their  quarters. 
Cortes,  who  saw  the  immediate  necessity  of  carrying  the  place, 
determined  to  lead  a storming  party  himself.  He  was  then 
suffering  much  from  a wound  in  his  left  hand,  which  had  dis- 
abled it  for  the  present.  He  made  the  arm  serviceable,  how- 
ever, by  fastening  his  buckler  to  it,  and,  thus  crippled,  sallied 
out  at  the  head  of  300  chosen  cavaliers  and  several  thousand 
of  his  auxiliaries. 

“ In  the  court-yard  of  the  temple  he  found  a numerous  body 
of  Indians  prepared  to  dispute  his  passage.  He  briskly  charged 
them;  but  the  flat  smooth  stones  of  the  pavement  were  so 
slippery  that  the  horses  lost  their  footing  and  many  of  them 
fell.  Hastily  dismounting,  they  sent  back  the  animals  to  their 
quarters,  and,  renewing  the  assault,  the  Spaniards  succeeded 
without  much  difficulty  in  dispersing  the  Indian  warriors  and 
opening  a free  passage  for  themselves  to  the  teocalli. 

u Cortes,  having  cleared  a way  for  the  assault,  sprang  up 
the  lower  stairway,  followed  by  Alvarado,  Sandoval,  Ordaz, 
and  the  other  gallant  cavaliers  of  his  little  band,  leaving  a 
file  of  arquebusiers  and  a strong  corps  of  Indian  allies  to  hold 
the  enemy  in  check  at  the  foot  of  the  monument.  On  the  first 
landing,  as  well  as  on  the  several  galleries  above,  and  on  the 
summit,  the  Aztec  warriors  were  drawn  up  to  dispute  his 
passage.  From  their  elevated  position  they  showered  down 
volleys  of  lighter  missiles,  together  with  heavy  stones,  beams, 
and  burning  rafters,  which,  after  thundering  along  the  stair- 
way, overturned  the  ascending  Spaniards  and  carried  desola- 
tion through  their  ranks.  But  the  assailants  pressed  on, 
effectually  supported  by  a brisk  fire  of  the  musketeers  from 
below,  which  so  much  galled  the  Mexicans  in  their  exposed 
situation  that  they  were  glad  to  take  shelter  on  the  broad 
summit  of  the  teocalli. 

“ Cortes  and  his  comrades  were  close  upon  their  rear,  and 
the  two  parties  soon  found  themselves  face  to  face  on  this 
aerial  battlefield,  engaged  in  mortal  combat  in  presence  of 
the  whole  city,  as  well  as  of  the  troops  in  the  court-yard,  who 


clxxx 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


paused,  as  if  by  mutual  consent,  gazing  in  silent  expectation 
on  the  issue  of  hostilities  above.  The  area,  though  somewhat 
smaller  than  the  base  of  the  teocalli,  was  large  enough  to  afford 
a fair  field  of  fight  for  a thousand  combatants.  It  was  paved 
with  broad,  flat  stones.  No  impediment  occurred  over  its  sur- 
face, except  the  huge  sacrificial  block,  and  the  temples  of 
stone  which  rose  to  the  height  of  forty  feet,  at  the  further 
extremity  of  the  area.  One  of  these  had  been  consecrated  to 
the  Cross.  The  other  was  still  occupied  by  the  Mexican  war- 
god.  The  Christian  and  the  Aztec  contended  for  their  religion 
under  the  very  shadow  of  their  respective  shrines:  while  the 
Indian  priests,  running  to  and  fro,  with  their  hair  wildly  stream- 
ing over  their  sable  mantles,  seemed  hovering  in  mid-air.  like 
so  many  demons  of  darkness  urging  on  the  work  of  slaughter. 

“The  parties  closed  with  the  desperate  fury  of  men  who 
had  no  hope  but  in  victory.  Quarter  was  neither  asked  nor 
given ; and  to  fly  was  impossible.  The  edge  of  the  area  was  un- 
protected by  parapet  or  battlement.  The  least  slip  would  be 
fatal,  and  the  combatants,  as  they  struggled  in  mortal  agony, 
were  sometimes  seen  to  roll  over  the  sheer  sides  of  the  preci- 
pice together.  Cortes  himself  had  a narrow  escape  from  the 
dreadful  fate.  Two  warriors  seized  on  him  and  were  dragging 
him  violently  toward  the  brink  of  the  pyramid.  Aware  of 
their  intention,  he  struggled  with  all  his  force,  and,  before  they 
could  accomplish  their  purpose,  succeeded  in  tearing  himself 
from  their  grasp  and  hurling  one  of  them  over  the  walls  with 
his  own  arm! 

“The  battle  lasted  with  unremitting  fury  for  three  hours. 
The  number  of  the  enemy  was  double  that  of  the  Christians, 
but  the  invulnerable  armor  of  the  Spaniard,  his  sword  of 
matchless  temper,  and  his  skill  in  the  use  of  it,  gave  him  ad- 
vantages which  far  outweighed  the  odds  of  physical  strength 
and  numbers.  Resistance  grew  fainter  and  fainter  on  the  side 
of  the  Aztecs.  One  after  another  they  had  fallen.  Two  or  three 
priests  only  survived,  to  be  led  away  in  triumph  by  the  vic- 
tors. Every  other  combatant  was  stretched  a corpse  on  the 
bloody  arena,  or  had  been  hurled  from  the  giddy  heights.  The 
Spaniards  lost  45  of  their  best  men:  and  nearly  all  the  remain- 
der were  more  or  less  injured. 

“The  victorious  cavaliers  now  rushed  toward  the  sanctu- 
aries. Penetrating  into  their  recesses  they  had  the  mortifica- 
tion to  find  the  image  of  the  Virgin  and  the  Cross  removed. 
But  in  the  other  they  beheld  the  grim  figure  of  Huitzilopochtliyl 
with  his  censer  of  smoking  hearts,  and  the  walls  of  his  oratory 
reeking  with  gore,  — not  improbably  of  their  own  country- 
men! With  shouts  of  triumph  the  Christians  tore  the  un- 
couth monster  from  his  niche,  and  tumbled  him,  in  the  pre- 


1 This  statue  is  now  in  the  Museo  Notional  at  Mexico  City. 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


clxxxi 


sence  of  the  horror-struck  Aztecs,  down  the  steps  of  the 
teocalli.  They  then  set  fire  to  the  wooden  tower  of  the  ac- 
cursed building.  The  flames  speedily  ran  up  the  slender 
towers,  sending  forth  an  ominous  light  over  city,  lake,  and 
valley,  to  the  remotest  hut  among  the  mountains.  It  was  the 
funeral  pyre  of  paganism,  and  proclaimed  the  fall  of  that 
sanguinary  religion  which  had  so  long  hung  like  a dark  cloud 
over  the  fair  regions  of  Anahuac. 

“Having  accomplished  this  good  work,  the  Spaniards  de- 
scended the  winding  slopes  of  the  teocalli  with  more  free  and 
buoyant  step,  as  if  conscious  that  the  blessing  of  Heaven  now 
rested  on  their  arms.  They  passed  through  the  dusky  files  of 
Indian  warriors  in  the  court-yard,  too  much  dismayed  by  the 
appalling  scenes  they  had  witnessed  to  offer  resistance,  and 
reached  their  own  quarters  in  safety.  That  very  night  they 
followed  up  the  blow  by  a sortie  on  the  sleeping  town,  and 
burned  300  houses,  the  horrors  of  conflagration  being  made 
still  more  impressive  by  occurring  at  the  hour  when  the  Aztecs, 
from  their  own  system  of  warfare,  were  least  prepared  for 
them. 

“Hoping  to  find  the  temper  of  the  natives  somewhat  sub- 
dued by  these  reverses,  Cortes  made  them  a vantage-ground  for 
proposing  peace  terms.  In  a parley  with  the  principal  chiefs 
he  pointed  out  that  they  had  seen  their  gods  trampled  in  the 
dust,  their  altars  broken,  their  dwellings  burned,  their  war- 
riors falling  on  all  sides.  ‘ This,’  he  said,  ‘ you  have  brought  on 
yourselves  by  your  rebellion.  If  you  do  not  lay  down  your 
arms  and  return  once  more  to  your  obedience,  I will  make 
your  city  a heap  of  ruins,  and  leave  not  a soul  alive  to  mourn 
over  it.' 

“But  the  Spanish  commander  did  not  yet  comprehend  the 
character  of  the  Aztecs,  if  he  thought  to  intimidate  them 
by  menaces.  It  was  true,  they  answered,  he  had  destroyed 
their  temples,  broken  in  pieces  their  gods,  massacred  their 
countrymen.  Many  more  doubtless  were  yet  to  fall  under 
their  terrible  swords.  But  they  were  content  so  long  as  for 
every  thousand  Mexicans  they  could  shed  the  blood  of  a single 
white  man ! 4 Look  out/  they  continued,  ‘ on  our  terraces  and 
streets;  see  them  still  thronged  with  warriors  as  far  as  your 
eyes  can  reach.  Our  numbers  are  scarcely  diminished  by  our 
losses.  Yours,  on  the  contrary,  are  lessening  every  hour.  You 
are  perishing  from  hunger  and  sickness.  Your  provisions  and 
water  are  failing.  You  must  soon  fall  into  our  hands.  The 
bridges  are  broken  down , and  you  cannot  escape ! There  will 
be  too  few  of  you  left  to  glut  the  vengeance  of  our  gods ! , As 
they  concluded,  they  sent  a whole  volley  of  arrows  over  the 
battlements,  which  compelled  the  Spaniards  to  descend  and 
take  refuge  in  their  defences. 

“The  fierce  and  indomitable  spirit  of  the  Aztecs  filled  the 


clxxxii 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


besieged  with  dismay.  The  annunciation  respecting  the  bridges 
fell  like  a knell  on  their  ears.  All  that  they  had  heard  was  too 
true;  and  they  gazed  on  one  another  with  looks  of  anxiety 
and  dismay. 

“ A spirit  of  mutiny  broke  out,  especially  among  the  recent 
levies  drawn  from  the  army  of  Narvaez , and  the  men  de- 
manded, with  noisy  vehemence,  to  be  led  instantly  from  the 
city,  and  refused  to  serve  longer  in  defence  of  a place  where 
they  were  cooped  up  like  sheep  in  the  shambles,  waiting  only 
to  be  dragged  to  slaughter.  In  all  this  they  were  rebuked  by 
the  more  orderly,  soldier-like  conduct  of  the  veterans  of 
Cortes.  These  latter  had  shared  with  their  general  the  day  of 
his  prosperity,  and  they  were  not  disposed  to  desert  him  in 
the  tempest. 

il  Cortes  calmly  surveyed  his  condition,  and  weighed  the 
difficulties  which  surrounded  him,  before  coming  to  a decision. 
Independently  of  the  hazard  of  a retreat  in  the  face  of  a watch- 
ful and  desperate  foe,  it  was  a deep  mortification  to  surrender 
the  city  where  he  had  so  long  lorded  it  as  master,  to  abandon 
the  rich  treasures  which  he  had  secured  to  himself  and  his 
followers;  to  forego  the  very  means  by  which  he  had  hoped  to 
propitiate  the  favor  of  his  sovereign  and  secure  an  amnesty 
for  his  irregular  proceedings. 

“ In  this  condition  he  had  yet  to  learn  the  tidings  of  a fresh 
misfortune  in  the  death  of  Montezuma.  A short  time  before, 
the  Indian  monarch  had  received  a javelin  wound  while 
addressing  the  infuriated  people,  and  since  receiving  this 
wound  he  had  declined  rapidly.  Perceiving  his  end  approach, 
he  summoned  Cortes  and  recommended  his  three  daughters  to 
his  care.  He  earnestly  commended  these  children  to  his  pro- 
tection, as  ‘the  most  precious  jewels  that  he  could  leave  him.’ 
He  besought  Cortes  to  care  for  them:  to  protect  them  from 
the  wrath  of  the  people  wTho  believed  Montezuma  a traitor  to 
them.  On  the  30th  of  June,  1520,  he  expired  in  the  arms  of 
some  of  his  own  nobles,  who  still  remained  faithful  to  him.  At 
the  time  of  his  death  Montezuma  was  forty  years  old.  He  had 
reigned  18  years.” 

d.  The  Retreat  from  Tenochtitlan.  “As  there  was  no 
longer  any  question  as  to  the  expediency  of  evacuating  the 
capital,  the  Spanish  commander  called  a council  of  officers  to 
deliberate  on  the  matter.  It  was  his  purpose  to  retreat  on 
Tlascala,  and  there  to  decide  on  his  future  operations.  The 
general’s  first  care  was  to  provide  for  the  safe  transportation 
of  the  treasure.  He  delivered  the  share  belonging  to  the  Crown 
to  the  royal  officers,  assigning  them  one  of  the  strongest 
horses,  and  a guard  of  soldiers  to  transport  it.  Much  of  the 
treasure  was  necessarily  abandoned,  from  the  want  of  adequate 
m&ins  of  conveyance.  The  metal  lay  in  shining  heaps  along 
the  floor,  exciting  the  cupidity  of  the  soldiers.  ‘Take  what 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


clxxxiii 


you  will  of  it/  said  Cortes  to  his  men.  ‘ Better  you  should  have 
it  than  these  Mexican  hounds.  But  be  careful  not  to  overload 
yourselves.  He  travels  safest  in  the  dark  night  who  travels 
lightest.’  His  own  more  wary  followers  took  heed  to  his  coun- 
sel, but  the  common  soldiers  rushed  on  the  treacherous  spoil, 
greedily  loading  themselves  with  as  much  as  they  could  carry. 

“ Cortes  next  arranged  the  order  of  march.  The  van,  com- 
posed of  200  Spanish  foot,  he  placed  under  the  command  of 
the  valiant  Gonzalo  de  Sandoval , supported  by  Diego  de  Ordazf 
Francisco  de  Lujo , and  about  twenty  other  cavaliers.  The 
rear-guard,  constituting  the  strength  of  the  infantry,  was  en- 
trusted to  Pedro  de  Alvarado , and  Velasquez  de  Leon.  The 
general  himself  took  charge  of  the  ‘ battle’  or  centre,  in  which 
went  the  baggage,  some  of  the  heavy  guns,  the  treasure,  and 
the  prisoners.  These  consisted  of  a son  and  two  daughters 
of  Montezuma,  Cacama , the  deposed  lord  of  Tezcuco,  and 
several  other  nobles,  whom  Cortes  retained  as  important 
pledges  in  his  future  negotiations  with  the  enemy.  The 
Tlascalans  were  distributed  equally  among  the  three  divisions ; 
and  Cortes  had  under  his  immediate  command  a hundred 
picked  soldiers,  his  own  veterans  most  attached  to  his  serv- 
ice, who,  with  Cristobal  de  Olid , Francisco  de  Morla , Alonso 
de  Avila , and  two  or  three  other  cavaliers,  formed  a select 
corps,  to  act  wherever  occasion  might  require. 

“The  general  had  already  superintended  the  construction 
of  a portable  bridge  to  be  laid  over  the  open  canals  in  the 
causeway.  This  was  given  in  charge  to  an  officer  named  Mar - 
garino,  with  forty  soldiers  under  his  orders,  all  pledged  to 
defend  the  passage  to  the  last  extremity.” 

e.  La  Noche  Triste,  or  Sad  Night.  “At  midnight  the 
troops  were  under  arms,  in  readiness  for  the  march.  Mass  was 
performed  by  Father  Olmedo,  who  invoked  the  protection  of 
the  Almighty  through  the  awful  perils  of  the  night.  The  gates 
were  thrown  open,  and  on  the  first  of  July,  1520,  the  Spaniards 
for  the  last  time  sallied  forth  from  the  walls  of  the  ancient 
fortress,  the  scene  of  so  much  suffering  and  such  indomitable 
courage. 

“The  night  was  cloudy,  and  a drizzling  rain  added  to  the 
obscurity.  The  great  square  before  the  palace  was  deserted. 
Steadily,  as  noiselessly  as  possible,  the  Spaniards  held  their 
way  along  the  great  street  of  Tlacopan,  which  so  lately  had 
resounded  with  the  tumult  of  battle.  All  was  now  hushed  in 
silence,  and  they  were  only  reminded  of  the  past  by  the  occa- 
sional presence  of  some  solitary  corpse,  or  a dark  heap  of  the 
slain,  which  too  plainly  told  where  the  strife  had  been  hottest. 
As  they  passed  along  the  lanes  and  alleys,  which  opened  into 
the  great  street,  or  looked  down  the  canals,  whose  polished  sur- 
face gleamed  with  a sort  of  ebon  lustre  through  the  obscurity 
of  night,  they  fancied  that  they  discerned  the  shadowy  forms 


clxxxiv 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


of  their  foe  lurking  in  ambush  and  ready  to  spring  on  them. 
But  it  was  only  fancy:  the  city  slept  undisturbed  even  by  the 
prolonged  echoes  of  the  tramp  of  the  horses  and  the  hoarse 
rumbling  of  the  artillery  and  baggage-trains. 

“As  the  Spaniards  drew  near  the  spot  where  the  street 
opened  on  the  causeway,  and  were  preparing  to  lay  the  port- 
able bridge  across  the  uncovered  breach,  several  Indian 
sentinels  who  had  been  stationed  here,  took  the  alarm  and 
tied,  rousing  their  countrymen  by  their  cries.  The  priests, 
keeping  their  night-watch  on  the  summits  of  the  teocallis , 
instantly  caught  the  tidings  and  sounded  their  shells,  while 
the  huge  drum  in  the  desolate  temple  of  the  war-god  sent  forth 
those  solemn  tones,  heard  only  in  seasons  of  calamity,  which 
vibrated  through  every  comer  of  the  capital.  The  Spaniards 
saw  that  no  time  was  to  be  lost.  The  bridge  was  brought  for- 
ward and  fitted  with  all  possible  expedition.  Sandoval  was 
the  first  to  try  its  strength,  and,  riding  across,  was  followed 
by  his  little  body  of  chivalry,  his  infantry,  and  the  Tlascalan 
allies  who  formed  the  first  division  of  the  army.  Then  came 
Cortes  and  his  squadrons,  with  the  baggage,  ammunition- 
wagons,  and  a part  of  the  artillery.  But  before  they  had  time 
to  defile  across  the  narrow  passage,  a gathering  sound  was 
heard,  like  that  of  a might v forest  agitated  by  the  winds.  It 
grew  louder  and  louder,  while  on  the  dark  waters  of  the  lake 
was  heard  a plashing  noise,  as  of  many  oars.  Then  came  a 
few  stones  and  arrows  striking  at  random  among  the  hurrying 
troops.  They  fell  every  moment  faster  and  more  furious,  till 
they  thickened  into  a terrible  tempest,  while  the  very  heavens 
were  rent  with  the  yells  and  war-cries  of  a myriad  combatants, 
who  seemed  all  at  once  to  be  swarming  over  land  and  lake. 

“The  Spaniards  pushed  steadily  on  through  this  arrowy 
sleet,  though  the  barbarians,  dashing  their  canoes  against  the 
sides  of  the  causeway,  clambered  up  and  broke  in  upon  their 
ranks.  But  the  Christians,  anxious  only  to  make  their  escape, 
declined  all  combat  except  for  self-preservation.  The  cavaliers, 
spurring  forward  their  steeds,  shook  off  their  assailants  and 
rode  over  their  prostrate  bodies,  while  the  men  on  foot, 
with  their  good  swords  or  the  butt  of  their  pieces,  drove  them 
headlong  again  down  the  sides  of  the  dike. 

“But  the  advance  of  several  thousand  men,  marching  on 
a front  of  not  more  than  twenty  abreast,  necessarily  required 
much  time,  and  the  leading  files  had  already  reached  the  sec- 
ond breach  in  the  causeway  before  those  in  the  rear  had  entirely 
traversed  the  first.  Here  they  halted,  and  as  they  had  no  means 
of  effecting  a passage,  smarting  all  the  while  under  uninter- 
mitting volleys  from  the  enemy,  who  were  clustered  thick  on 
the  waters  around  this  second  opening,  sorely  distressed,  the 
vanguard  sent  repeated  messages  to  the  rear  to  demand  the 
portable  bridge.  At  length  the  last  of  the  army  had  crossed, 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


clxxxv 


and  Margarino  and  his  sturdy  followers  endeavored  to  raise 
the  ponderous  framework.  But  it  stuck  fast  in  the  sides  of  the 
dike.  In  vain  they  strained  every  nerve.  The  weight  of  so 
many  men  and  horses,  and  above  all,  the  heavy  artillery,  had 
wedged  the  timbers  so  firmly  in  the  stones  and  earth  that  it 
was  beyond  their  power  to  dislodge  them.  Still  they  labored 
amidst  a torrent  of  missiles,  until,  many  of  them  slain,  and  all 
wounded,  they  were  obliged  to  abandon  the  attempt. 

“The  tidings  soon  spread  from  man  to  man,  and  no  sooner 
was  their  dreadful  import  comprehended  than  a cry  of  despair 
arose,  which  for  a moment  drowned  all  the  noise  of  conflict. 
All  means  of  retreat  were  cut  off.  Scarcely  hope  was  left.  The 
only  hope  was  in  such  desperate  exertions  as  each  could  make 
for  himself.  Intense  danger  produced  intense  selfishness. 
Each  thought  only  of  his  own  life.  Pressing  forward,  he  tram- 
pled down  the  weak  and  wounded,  heedless  whether  it  were 
friend  or  foe.  The  leading  files,  urged  on  by  the  rear,  were 
crowded  on  the  brink  of  the  gulf.  Sandoval , Ordaz , and  the 
other  cavaliers  dashed  into  the  water.  Some  succeeded  in 
swimming  their  horses  across.  Others  failed,  and  some,  who 
reached  the  opposite  bank,  being  overturned  in  the  ascent, 
rolled  headlong  with  their  steeds  into  the  lake.  The  infantry 
followed  pell-mell,  heaped  promiscuously  on  one  another, 
frequently  pierced  by  the  shafts  or  struck  down  by  the  war- 
clubs  of  the  Aztecs:  while  many  an  unfortunate  victim  was 
dragged  half-stunned  on  board  their  canoes,  to  be  reserved 
for  a protracted  but  more  dreadful  death. 

“The  carnage  raged  fearfully  along  the  length  of  the  cause- 
way. Its  shadowy  bulk  presented  a mass  of  sufficient  distinct- 
ness for  the  enemy’s  missiles,  which  often  prostrated  their 
own  countrymen  in  the  blind  fury  of  the  tempest.  Those 
nearest  the  dike,  running  their  canoes  alongside,  with  a force 
that  shattered  them  to  pieces,  leaped  on  the  land,  and  grap- 
pled with  the  Christians,  until  both  came  rolling  down  the 
causeway  together.  But  the  Aztec  fell  among  his  friends, 
while  his  antagonist  was  borne  away  in  triumph  to  the  sacri- 
fice. The  struggle  was  long  and  deadly.  The  Mexicans  were 
recognized  by  their  white  cotton  tunics,  which  showed  faint 
through  the  darkness.  Above  the  combatants  rose  a wild  and 
discordant  clamor,  in  which  horrid  shouts  of  vengeance  were 
mingled  with  groans  of  agony,  with  invocations  of  the  saints 
and  the  Blessed  Virgin,  and  with  screams  of  women;  for  there 
were  several  women,  both  natives  and  Spaniards,  who  had 
accompanied  the  Christian  camp.  Among  these,  one  named 
Maria  de  Estrada  is  particularly  noticed  for  the  courage  she 
displayed,  battling  with  broadsword  and  target  like  the 
stanchest  of  the  warriors. 

“The  opening  in  the  causeway,  meanwhile,  was  filled  up 
with  the  wreck  of  matter  which  had  been  forced  into  it,  am- 


clxxxvi 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


munition-wagons,  heavy  guns,  bales  of  rich  stuff  scattered 
over  the  waters,  chests  of  solid  ingots,1  and  bodies  of  men  and 
horses,  till  over  this  dismal  ruin  a passage  was  gradually 
formed,  by  which  those  in  the  rear  were  enabled  to  clamber 
to  the  other  side.  Cortes  found  a place  that  was  fordable,  and 
halting,  with  the  water  up  to  his  saddle-girths,  he  endeavored 
to  check  the  confusion,  and  lead  his  followers  by  a safer  path 
to  the  opposite  bank.  But  his  voice  was  lost  in  the  wild  up- 
roar, and  finally,  hurrying  on  with  the  tide,  he  pressed  forward 
with  a few  trusty  cavaliers,  but  not  before  he  had  seen  his 
favorite  page,  Juan  de  Salazar,  struck  down,  a corpse,  by  his 
side.  Here  he  found  Sandoval  and  his  companions,  halting 
before  the  third  and  last  breach,  endeavoring  to  cheer  on 
their  followers  to  surmount  it.  But  their  resolution  faltered. 
It  was  wide  and  deep,  though  not  so  closely  beset  by  the 
enemy  as  the  preceding  ones.  The  cavaliers  again  set  the 
example  by  plunging  into  the  water.  Horse  and  foot  followed 
as  they  could,  some  swimming,  others  with  dying  grasp  cling- 
ing to  the  manes  and  tails  of  the  struggling  animals.  Those 
fared  best,  as  the  general  had  predicted,  who  travelled  lightest; 
and  many  were  the  unfortunate  wretches  who,  weighed  down 
by  the  fatal  gold  which  they  loved  so  well,  were  buried  with  it 
in  the  salt  floods  of  the  lake.  Cortes,  with  his  gallant  comrades, 
Olid,  Morla,  Sandoval,  and  some  few  others,  still  kept  in  the 
advance,  leading  his  broken  remnant  off  the  fatal  causeway. 
The  din  of  battle  lessened  in  the  distance;  when  the  rumor 
reached  them  that  the  rear-guard  would  be  wholly  over- 
whelmed without  speedy  relief.  It  seemed  almost  an  act  of 
desperation : but  the  generous  hearts  of  the  Spanish  cavaliers 
did  not  stop  to  calculate  danger  when  the  cry  for  succor 
reached  them.  Turning  their  horses,  they  galloped  back  to 
the  theatre  of  action,  worked  their  way  through  the  press, 
swam  the  canal,  and  placed  themselves  in  the  thick  of  the 
melee  on  the  opposite  bank. 

“ The  first  gray  of  the  morning  was  now  coming  over  the 
waters.  It  showed  the  hideous  confusion  of  the  scene  which 
had  been  shrouded  in  the  obscurity  of  night.  The  dark  masses 
of  combatants,  stretching  along  the  dike,  were  seen  struggling 
for  mastery,  until  the  very  causeway  on  which  they  stood 
appeared  to  tremble,  as  if  shaken  by  an  earthquake;  while 
the  bosom  of  the  lake,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  was  dark- 
ened by  canoes  crowded  with  warriors,  whose  spears  and 
bludgeons,  armed  with  blades  of  volcanic  glass,  gleamed  in 
the  morning  light. 

“The  cavaliers  found  Alvarado  unhorsed,  and  defending 
himself  with  a poor  handful  of  followers  against  an  over- 
whelming tide  of  the  enemy.  His  good  steed,  which  had 

1 One  witness  estimates  that  over  2,000,000  pesos  were  lost  during  that 
night. 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


clxxxvii 


borne  him  through  many  a hard  fight,  had  fallen  under  him. 
He  was  himself  wounded  in  several  places,  and  was  striving 
in  vain  to  rally  his  scattered  column,  which  was  driven  to  the 
verge  of  the  canal  by  the  fury  of  the  enemy,  then  in  possession 
of  the  whole  rear  of  the  causeway.  The  artillery  in  the  earlier 
part  of  the  engagement  had  not  been  idle,  and  its  iron  shower, 
sweeping  along  the  dike,  had  mowed  down  the  assailants  by 
hundreds.  But  nothing  could  resist  their  impetuosity.  The 
front  ranks,  pushed  on  by  those  behind,  were  at  length  forced 
up  to  the  pieces,  and,  pouring  over  them  like  a torrent,  over- 
threw men  and  guns  in  one  general  ruin.  The  resolute  charge 
of  the  Spanish  cavaliers,  who  had  now  arrived,  created  a 
temporary  check,  and  gave  time  for  their  countrymen  to 
make  a feeble  rally.  But  they  were  speedily  borne  down  by 
the  returning  flood.  Cortes  and  his  companions  were  com- 
pelled to  plunge  again  into  the  lake,  though  all  did  not  escape. 
Alvarado  stood  on  the  brink  for  a moment,  hesitating  what 
to  do.  Unhorsed  as  he  was,  to  throw  himself  into  the  water, 
in  the  face  of  the  hostile  canoes  that  swarmed  around  the 
opening,  afforded  but  a desperate  chance  of  safety.  He  was 
a man  of  powerful  frame,  and  despair  gave  him  unnatural 
energy.  Setting  his  long  lance  firmly  on  the  wreck  which 
strewed  the  bottom  of  the  lake,  he  sprung  forward  with  all  his 
might,  and  cleared  the  wide  gap  at  a leap ! Aztecs  and  Tlas- 
calans  gazed  in  stupid  amazement,  exclaiming,  as  they  be- 
held the  incredible  feat,  ‘ This  is  truly  the  Tonatiuh,  the  child 
of  the  Sun ! 1 The  breadth  of  the  opening  is  not  given.  But 
it  was  so  great  that  the  valorous  captain,  Diaz , who  well  re- 
membered the  place,  says  the  leap  was  impossible  to  any 
man.  To  this  day  the  spot  is  familiarly  known  to  every  in- 
habitant of  the  capital ; and  the  name  of  the  Calle  del  Puente 
de  Alvarado  [p.  339]  — street  of  the  Bridge  of  Alvarado  — still 
commemorates  the  exploit. 

“ Cortes  and  his  followers  now  rode  forward  to  the  front,  where 
the  troops  were  marching  off  the  fatal  causeway.  The  atten- 
tion of  the  Aztecs  was  diverted  to  the  rich  spoil  that  strewed 
the  battle-ground,  and,  but  little  molested,  the  jaded  Span- 
iards were  allowed  to  defile  through  the  adjacent  suburb  of 
Popotla. 

“The  Great  Captain  there  dismounted  from  his  tired  steed, 
and  sitting  beneath  a giant  tree  [comp.  p.  418]  gazed  mournfully 
on  the  broken  files  as  they  passed  before  him.  The  cavalry, 
most  of  them  dismounted,  were  mingled  with  the  infantry,  who 
dragged  their  feeble  limbs  along  wdth  difficulty ; their  shattered 
mail  and  tattered  garments  dripping  with  the  salt  ooze,  show- 
ing through  their  rents  many  a bruise  and  ghastly  wound, 
their  bright  arms  soiled,  their  proud  crests  and  banners  gone, 
the  baggage,  artillery,  and  all  that  constitutes  the  pride  and 
panoply  of  glorious  war,  forever  lost.  Cortes , as  he  looked 


clxxxviii 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


wistfully  on  their  thin  and  disordered  ranks,  sought  in  vain 
for  many  a familiar  face,  and  missed  more  than  one  dear  com- 
panion who  had  stood  side  by  side  with  him  through  all  the 
perils  of  the  Conquest . Though  accustomed  to  control  his  emo- 
tions, the  sight  was  too  much  for  him.  He  covered  his  face 
with  his  hands,  and  the  tears  'which  trickled  down  revealed 
too  plainly  the  anguish  of  his  soul. 

“ He  found  some  consolation,  however,  in  the  sight  of  several 
of  the  cavaliers  on  whom  he  most  relied.  Alvarado , Sandoval , 
Olid , Ordaz , Avila , were  yet  safe.  He  had  the  inexpressible 
satisfaction,  also,  of  learning  the  safety  of  Marina , the  Indian 
interpreter.  Aguilar,  the  other  interpreter,  had  also  escaped. 
And  it  was  with  no  less  satisfaction  that  Cortes  learned  the 
safety  of  the  ship-builder,  Martin  Lopez.  The  general’s  solici- 
tude for  the  fate  of  this  man,  so  indispensable  to  the  success 
of  his  subsequent  operations,  showed  that,  amidst  all  his 
affliction,  his  indomitable  spirit  was  looking  forward  to  the 
hour  of  revenge. 

“The  loss  sustained  by  the  Spaniards  on  this  fatal  night, 
according  to  Cortes's  own  letter,  did  not  exceed  one  hundred 
and  fifty  Spaniards  and  two  thousand  Indians.  But  Thoan 
Cano , one  of  the  cavaliers  present,  estimated  the  slain  at 
1,170  Spaniards  and  8,000  allies.  Forty-six  of  the  cavalry 
were  cut  off.  The  greater  part  of  the  treasure,  the  baggage, 
the  general’s  papers,  including  a minute  diary  of  transactions 
since  leaving  Cuba,  were  swallowed  up  by  the  waters.  The 
ammunition,  the  beautiful  little  train  of  artillery  with  which 
Cortes  had  entered  the  city,  were  all  gone.  Not  a musket  re- 
mained, the  men  having  thrown  them  away,  lest  they  retard 
their  escape  on  that  disastrous  night.  Such  were  the  results 
of  this  terrible  passage  of  the  causeway;  more  disastrous  than 
those  occasioned  by  any  other  reverse  which  had  stained  the 
Spanish  arms  in  the  New  World ; and  which  have  branded 
the  night  on  which  it  happened,  in  the  national  annals,  with 
the  name  of  la  noche  triste,  1 the  melancholy  night.’  ” 

/.  Siege  and  Downfall  of  Tenochtitlan.  “In  the  spring 
of  1521  we  find  the  Great  Captain  once  more  in  the  Valley 
of  Mexico,  blockading  and  besieging  the  ancient  Aztec  city. 
Provided  with  fresh  arms  and  military  stores;  with  fresh  re- 
cruits and  an  inexhaustible  supply  of  new  energy;  strongly 
supported  bv  thousands  of  Indian  allies  thirsting  for  the  com- 
plete annihilation  of  the  Aztec  stronghold,  the  Spanish  com- 
mander set  about  the  downfall  of  the  doomed  city  with  a 
singleness  of  purpose  that  brooked  no  defeat.  Building  a num- 
ber of  brigantines,  he  launched  them  on  the  lake  and  defeated, 
in  a bloody  encounter,  the  Indian  flotilla  that  came  to  meet 
them.  Day  after  day  the  intrepid  Aztecs  sallied  out  to  meet 
the  Spaniards,  and  as  frequently  were  they  forced  back.  For 
weeks  and  months  the  invaders  lived  a life  of  incessant  toil 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


clxxxix 


almost  too  severe  for  even  their  stubborn  constitutions.  Many 
of  their  desperate  assaults  were  repulsed  by  the  besieged,  whose 
proud  spirit  seemed  not  to  weaken,  albeit  famine  was  now 
gradually  working  its  way  into  the  heart  of  the  beleaguered 
city.  On  one  occasion  the  Spaniards  made  a general  assault 
on  the  city,  but  they  were  defeated  with  such  loss  that  for  a 
time  their  position  was  critical. 

“A  day  was  fixed  for  the  final  assault,  which  was  to  be 
made  simultaneously  by  the  two  divisions  under  Alvarado 
and  the  commander-in-chief.  Sandoval  was  instructed  to 
draw  off  the  greater  part  of  his  besieging  forces  from  the 
northern  causeway  and  to  unite  himself  with  Alvarado , while 
seventy  picked  soldiers  were  to  be  detached  to  the  support 
of  Cortes.  On  the  appointed  morning  the  two  armies  advanced 
along  their  respective  causeways  against  the  city.  They  were 
supported,  in  addition  to  the  brigantines,  by  a numerous  fleet 
of  Indian  boats,  and  by  a countless  multitude  of  allies,  whose 
very  numbers  served  in  the  end  to  embarrass  their  operations. 
Cortes  divided  his  forces  into  three  bodies.  One  of  them  he 
placed  under  Alder ete,  with  orders  to  occupy  the  principal 
street.  A second  he  gave  in  charge  to  Andres  de  Tapia  and 
Jorge  de  Alvarado;  the  former  a cavalier  of  courage  and  ca- 
pacity, the  latter  a younger  brother  of  Don  Pedro , and  pos- 
sessed of  the  intrepid  spirit  which  belonged  to  that  chivalrous 
family.  These  were  to  penetrate  by  one  of  the  parallel  streets, 
while  the  general  himself,  at  the  head  of  the  third  division, 
was  to  occupy  the  other.  A small  body  of  cavalry,  with  two 
or  three  field-pieces,  was  stationed  as  a reserve  in  front  of  the 
great  street  of  Tacuba,  which  was  designated  as  the  rallying- 
point  for  the  different  divisions. 

“ Cortes  gave  the  most  positive  instructions  to  the  captains 
not  to  advance  a step  without  securing  the  means  of  retreat 
by  carefully  filling  up  the  ditches  and  the  openings  of  the  cause- 
ways. The  neglect  of  this  precaution  by  Alvarado,  in  an  assault 
which  he  had  made  on  the  city  but  a few  days  before,  had 
been  attended  with  such  serious  consequences  to  the  army 
that  Cortes  rode  over  to  his  officer’s  quarters  for  the  purpose 
of  publicly  reprimanding  him  for  his  disobedience  of  orders. 
On  his  arrival  at  the  camp,  however,  he  found  that  his  offend- 
ing captain  had  conducted  the  affair  with  such  gallantry  that 
the  intended  reprimand  subsided  into  a mild  rebuke. 

“The  arrangements  being  completed,  the  three  divisions 
marched  at  once  up  the  several  streets.  Cortes,  dismounting, 
took  the  van  of  his  own  squadron,  at  the  head  of  his  infantry. 
The  Mexicans  fell  back  as  he  advanced,  making  less  resistance 
than  usual.  The  Spaniards  pushed  on,  carrying  one  barri- 
cade after  another,  and  carefully  filling  up  the  gaps  with  rub- 
bish, so  as  to  secure  themselves  a footing.  The  canoes  supported 
the  attack,  by  moving  along  the  canals,  and  grappling  with 


cxc 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


those  of  the  enemy;  while  numbers  of  the  nimble-footed 
Tlascalans,  scaling  the  terraces,  passed  from  one  house  to  i 
another,  hurling  the  defenders  into  the  streets  below.  The  I 
enemy,  taken  apparently  by  surprise,  seemed  incapable  of  1 
withstanding  the  fury  of  the  assault.  The  facility  of  his  i 
success  led  Cortes  to  suspect  that  he  was  advancing  "too  fast,  j 
Determined  to  trust  no  eyes  but  his  own,  he  proceeded  to 
reconnoitre  the  route  followed  by  his  victorious  troops. 

“ His  conjecture  proved  too  true.  Alderete  had  followed  the  j 
retreating  Aztecs  with  an  eagerness  which  increased  with 
every  step  of  his  advance.  He  had  carried  the  barricades  J 
which  had  defended  the  breach,  and,  as  he  swept  on,  gave  1 
orders  that  the  opening  should  be  stopped.  But  the  blood  of  1 
the  high-spirited  cavaliers  was  warmed  by  the  chase,  and  no  j 
one  cared  to  be  detained  by  the  ignoble  occupation  of  filling  I 
up  the  ditches.  In  this  way  they  suffered  themselves  to  be  ] 
decoyed  into  the  heart  of  the  city.  Suddenly  the  horn  of  1 
Guatemozin  — the  sacred  symbol,  heard  only  in  seasons  of  1 
extraordinary  peril  — sent  forth  a long  and  piercing  note  1 
from  the  summit  of  a neighboring  teocolli.  In  an  instant,  the  I 
flying  Aztecs,  as  if  maddened  by  the  blast,  wheeled  about  and  ] 
turned  on  their  pursuers.  At  the  same  time,  countless  swarms  1 
of  warriors  from  the  adjoining  streets  and  lanes  poured  in  ! 
upon  the  flanks  of  the  assailants,  filling  the  air  with  the  fierce, 
unearthly  cries  which  had  reached  the  ears  of  Cortes , and 
drowning,  for  a moment,  the  wild  dissonance  which  reigned  in 
the  other  quarters  of  the  capital. 

“The  army,  taken  by  surprise,  and  shaken  by  the  fury  of 
the  assault,  was  thrown  into  the  utmost  disorder.  Friends 
and  foes,  white  men  and  Indians,  were  mingled  together  in 
one  promiscuous  mass.  Spears,  swords,  and  war-clubs  were 
brandished  together  in  the  air.  Blows  fell  at  random.  In 
their  eagerness  to  escape  they  trod  down  one  another.  Blinded 
by  the  missiles  which  now  rained  on  them  from  the  ojzoteas , 
they  staggered  on,  scarcely  knowing  in  what  direction,  or  I 
fell,  struck  down  by  hands  which  they  could  not  see.  On  they 
came,  like  a rushing  torrent  sweeping  along  some  steep  decliv- 
ity, and  rolling  in  one  confused  tide  toward  the  open  breach, 
on  the  farther  side  of  which  stood  Cortes  and  his  companions, 
horror-struck  at  the  sight  of  the  approaching  ruin.  The  fore- 
most files  soon  plunged  into  the  gulf,  treading  one  another 
under  the  flood,  some  striving  ineffectually  to  swim,  others, 
with  more  success,  to  clamber  over  the  heaps  of  their  suffo- 
cated comrades.  Many,  as  they  attempted  to  scale  the  oppo- 
site sides  of  the  slippery  dike,  fell  into  the  water,  or  were 
hurried  off  by  the  warriors  in  canoes,  who  added  to  the  horror 
of  the  rout  by  the  fresh  storm  of  darts  and  javelins  which  they 
poured  on  the  fugitives. 

“ Cortes , with  his  brave  followers,  kept  his  station  undaunted 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


CXCl 


on  the  other  side  of  the  breach.  With  outstretched  hands  he 
endeavored  to  rescue  as  many  as  he  could  from  the  watery 
grave,  and  from  the  more  appalling  fate  of  captivity.  He  as 
vainly  tried  to  restore  something  like  presence  of  mind  and 
order  among  the  distracted  fugitives.  His  person  was  well 
known  to  the  Aztecs,  and  his  position  now  made  him  a con- 
spicuous mark  for  their  weapons.  Stones,  darts,  and  arrows 
fell  around  him  as  thick  as  hail,  but  glanced  harmless  from 
his  steel  helmet  and  armor.  At  length  a cry  of  ‘ Malinche, 
Malinche ,’  arose  among  the  enemy;  and  six  of  their  number, 
strong  and  athletic  warriors,  rushing  on  him  at  once,  made  a 
violent  effort  to  drag  him  on  board  their  boat.  In  the  struggle 
he  received  a severe  wound  in  the  leg,  which,  for  the  time,  dis- 
abled it.  There  seemed  to  be  no  hope  for  him : when  a faithful 
follower,  Cristobal  de  Olea,  perceiving  his  general’s  extremity, 
threw^  himself  on  the  Aztecs,  and  with  a blow  cut  off  the  arm 
of  one  savage,  and  then  plunged  his  sword  in  the  body  of  an- 
other. He  was  quickly  supported  by  a comrade  named  Lerma , 
and  by  a Tlascalan  chief,  who,  fighting  over  the  body  of  the 
prostrate  Cortes , despatched  three  more  of  the  assailants, 
though  the  heroic  Olea  paid  dearly  for  his  self-devotion,  as  he 
fell  mortally  wounded  by  the  side  of  his  general. 

“With  the  aid  of  his  cavaliers  Cortes  at  length  succeeded 
in  regaining  the  firm  ground  and  reaching  the  open  place 
before  the  great  street  of  Tacuba.  Here,  under  a sharp  fire 
of  the  artillery,  he  rallied  his  broken  squadrons  and  beat  off 
the  enemy. 

“That  night  the  jaded  Spaniards  from  their  camp  saw  a 
long  file  of  priests  and  warriors  climbing  to  the  flat  summit 
of  the  teocalli.  Among  them  were  several  men  stripped  to  the 
waist,  some  of  whom,  by  the  whiteness  of  their  skins,  they 
recognized  as  their  own  countrymen.  Their  heads  were  gaud- 
ily decorated  with  coronals  of  plumes,  and  they  carried  fans 
in  their  hands.  They  were  urged  along  by  blows,  and  com- 
pelled to  take  part  in  the  dances  in  honor  of  the  Aztec  war- 
god.  The  unfortunate  captives,  soon  stripped  of  their  sad 
finery,  were  stretched,  one  after  another,  on  the  great  stone 
of  sacrifice. 

“We  may  imagine  with  what  sensations  the  stupefied  Span- 
iards must  have  gazed  on  this  horrid  spectacle,  so  near  that 
they  could  almost  recognize  the  persons  of  their  unfortunate 
friends,  see  the  struggles  and  writhings  of  their  bodies,  hear 
their  screams  of  agony!  Their  limbs  trembled  beneath  them 
as  they  thought  what  might  one  day  be  their  own  fate : and 
the  bravest  among  them,  who  had  hitherto  gone  to  battle 
as  careless  and  light-hearted  as  to  the  banquet-room,  were 
unable,  from  this  time  forward,  to  encounter  their  ferocious 
enemy  without  a sickening  feeling,  much  akin  to  fear,  coming 
over  them. 


CXC11 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


“ But  amidst  all  the  distress  and  multiplied  embarrassments 
of  their  situation,  the  Spaniards  still  remained  true  to  their 
purpose.  They  relaxed  in  no  degree  the  severity  of  the  block- 
ade. Their  camps  still  occupied  the  only  avenues  to  the  city,  I 
and  their  batteries,  sweeping  down  the  long  defiles  at  every 
fresh  assault  of  the  Aztecs,  mowed  down  hundreds  of  thel 
assailants. 

“ Soon  there  was  no  occasion  to  resort  to  artificial  means  to 
precipitate  the  ruin  of  the  Aztecs.  It  was  accelerated  every 
hour  by  causes  more  potent  than  those  arising  from  human 
agency.  Pent  up  in  their  suffocating  quarters,  nobles,  com- 
moners, and  slaves,  men,  women,  and  children,  faced  inevitable! 
starvation.  They  wandered  about  in  search  of  anything  that 
might  mitigate  the  fierce  gnawings  of  hunger.  Some  hunted  i 
for  insects  and  worms  on  the  borders  of  the  lake,  or  gathered 
the  salt  weeds  and  moss  from  its  bottom,  while  at  times  they 
might  be  seen  casting  a wistful  look  at  the  green  hills  beyond, 
which  many  of  them  had  left  to  share  the  fate  of  their  breth- 
ren in  the  capital.  Hundreds  of  famished  wretches  died  every: 
day  from  extremity  of  suffering. 

“ Cortes  offered  the  dying  Aztecs  a chance  to  capitulate,  but 
they  refused.  As  long  as  they  were  able  to  stand  they  madei 
murderous  assaults  on  the  Spanish  camps,  to  be  ruthlessly; 
beaten  back  or  slaughtered  by  the  invaders. 

“It  was  the  memorable  13th  of  August,  1521,  the  day  ofi 
St.  Hip  poly  tus,  — from  this  circumstance  selected  as  the  patron 
saint  of  modern  Mexico,  — that  Cortes  led  his  warlike  array 
for  the  last  time  across  the  black  and  blasted  environs  which 
lay  around  the  Indian  capital.  On  entering  the  Aztec  pre- 
cincts, he  paused,  willing  to  afford  its  wretched  inmates  one 
more  chance  to  escape  before  striking  the  fatal  blow.  He 
obtained  an  interview  with  some  of  the  principal  chiefs,  and 
expostulated  with  them  on  the  conduct  of  their  prince.  4 Hei 
surely  will  not,’  said  the  general,  ‘see  you  all  perish,  when 
he  can  so  easily  save  you.’  He  then  urged  them  to  prevail] 
on  Guatemozin  to  hold  a conference  with  him,  repeating  the 
assurance  of  his  personal  safety. 

“The  messengers  went  on  their  mission,  and  soon  returned 
with  the  cihuacoatl  at  their  head,  a magistrate  of  high  author- 
ity among  the  Mexicans.  He  said,  with  a melancholy  air, 
that  ‘ Guatemozin  was  ready  to  die  where  he  w’as,  but  would 
hold  no  interview  with  the  Spanish  commander’:  adding, 
in  a tone  of  resignation,  ‘ it  is  for  you  to  work  your  pleasure/ 
‘Go,  then,’  replied  the  stern  conqueror,  ‘and  prepare  your 
countrymen  for  death.  Their  hour  is  come/ 

“He  still  postponed  the  assault  fop  several  hours.  But  thei 
impatience  of  his  troops  at  this  delay  was  heightened  by 
the  rumor  that  Guatemozin  and  his  nobles  were  preparing  to 
escape  with  their  effects  in  piraguas  and  canoes  which  were 


HISTORY  AND  RACES  cxciii 

moored  on  the  margin  of  the  lake.  Convinced  of  the  impolicy 
of  further  procrastination,  Cortes  made  his  final  disposition  for 
the  attack,  and  took  his  own  station  on  an  azotea  which  com- 
manded the  theatre  of  operations. 

“ When  the  assailants  came  into  the  presence  of  the  enemy, 
they  found  them  huddled  together  in  the  utmost  confusion, 
all  ages  and  sexes,  in  masses  so  dense  that  they  nearly  forced 
one  another  over  the  brink  of  the  causeways  into  the  water 
below.  Some  had  climbed  on  the  terraces,  others  feebly 
supported  themselves  against  the  walls  of  the  buildings. 
Their  squalid  and  tattered  garments  gave  a wildness  to  their 
appearance  which  still  further  heightened  the  ferocity  of 
their  expression,  as  they  glared  on  their  enemy  with  eyes  in 
which  hate  was  mingled  with  despair.  When  the  Spaniards 
had  approached  within  bowshot,  the  Aztecs  let  off  a flight 
of  impotent  missiles,  showing  to  the  last  the  resolute  spirit  of 
their  better  days.  The  fatal  signal  was  then  given  by  the 
discharge  of  an  arquebuse,  — speedily  followed  by  peals  of 
heavy  ordnance,  the  rattle  of  firearms,  and  the  hellish  shouts 
of  the  confederates  as  they  sprang  upon  their  victims.  It  is 
unnecessary  to  stain  the  page  with  a repetition  of  the  horrors 
of  the  preceding  day.  Some  of  the  wretched  Aztecs  threw 
themselves  into  the  water  and  were  picked  up  by  canoes. 
Others  sank  and  were  suffocated  in  the  canals.  The  number 
of  these  became  so  great  that  a bridge  was  made  of  their  dead 
bodies,  over  which  the  assailants  could  climb  to  the  opposite 
banks.  Others  again,  especially  the  women,  begged  for  mercy, 
which,  as  the  chroniclers  assure  us,  was  everywhere  granted 
by  the  Spaniards,  and,  contrary  to  the  instructions  of  Cortes , 
everywhere  refused  by  the  confederates. 

“While  this  work  of  butchery  was  going  on,  numbers  were 
observed  pushing  off  in  the  barks  that  lined  the  shore,  and 
making  the  best  of  their  way  across  the  lake.  They  were  con- 
stantly intercepted  by  the  brigantines,  which  broke  through 
the  flimsy  array  of  boats,  sending  off  their  volleys  right  and 
left,  as  the  crews  of  the  latter  hotly  assailed  them.  The  battle 
raged  as  fiercely  on  the  lake  as  on  land. 

“ Sandoval  had  particularly  charged  his  captains  to  keep 
an  eye  on  the  movements  of  any  vessel  in  which  it  was  at  all 
probable  that  Guatemozin  might  be  concealed.  At  this  crisis 
three  or  four  of  the  largest  piraguas  were  seen  skimming  over 
the  water  and  making  their  way  rapidly  to  the  shore.  A cap- 
tain named  Garcia  Holguin  came  alongside  one  of  the  piraguas , 
and  ordered  his  men  to  level  their  cross-bows  at  the  boat.  But 
before  they  could  discharge  them  a cry  arose  from  those  in 
it  that  their  lord  was  on  board.  At  the  same  moment  a young 
warrior,  armed  with  buckler  and  maquahuitl,  rose  up,  as  if 
to  beat  off  the  assailants.  But  as  the  Spanish  captain  ordered 
his  men  not  to  shoot,  he  dropped  his  weapons,  and  exclaimed, 


CXC1V 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


‘I  am  Guatemozin.  Lead  me  to  Malinche:  I am  his  prisoner: 
but  let  no  harm  come  to  my  wife  and  my  followers.5 

“ The  news  of  Guatemozin' s capture  spread  rapidly  through 
the  fleet,  and  on  shore.  When  the  warriors  heard  it  they  ceased 
fighting.  It  seemed  as  if  the  fight  had  been  maintained  thus 
long  to  divert  the  enemy’s  attention  and  cover  their  master’s 
retreat. 

“ On  the  day  following  the  surrender,  Guatemozin  requested 
the  Spanish  commander  to  allow  the  Mexicans  to  leave  the  ! 
city  and  to  pass  unmolested  into  the  open  country.  To  this  i 
Cortes  readily  assented.  The  whole  number  who  departed  from 
the  stricken  place  is  estimated  at  from  thirty  to  seventy  thou-  | 
sand,  besides  women  and  children  who  had  survived  the  sword,  f 
pestilence,  and  famine.  Of  the  whole  number  who  perished 
in  the  course  of  the  siege  it  is  impossible  to  form  any  accurate  I 
computation.  The  accounts  range  widely,  from  120,000,  the  | 
lowest  estimate,  to  240,000.  The  number  of  Spaniards  who  t 
fell  was  comparatively  small.  The  historian  of  Tezcuco  asserts 
that  30,000  of  his  own  countrymen  perished. 

“The  booty  found  by  the  Spaniards  fell  far  below  their 
expectations.  It  did  not  exceed,  according  to  the  general’s 
statement,  a hundred  and  thirty  thousand  Castellanos  of  gold, 
including  the  sovereign’s  share,  which,  indeed,  taking  into 
account  many  articles  of  curious  and  costly  workmanship, 
voluntarily  relinquished  by  the  army,  greatly  exceeded  his 
legitimate  fifth.  It  is  believed  that  the  Aztecs  sunk  vast 
treasures  in  the  waters  of  the  lake. 

“Thus,  after  a siege  of  nearly  three  months’  duration, 
unmatched  in  history  for  the  constancy  and  courage  of  the 
besieged,  seldom  surpassed  for  the  severity  of  its  sufferings, 
fell  the  renowned  capital  of  the  Aztecs.”  (Prescott’s  Conquest.) 

g.  The  Vice-Regal  Period.  Mexico  was  under  the  iron  rule 
of  Spain  from  1521  to  1821,  and  during  those  three  centuries 
it  was  ruled  by  five  {Reman  Cortes  first)  Governors  (1521-28), 
two  Audiencias  (1528-35),  and  sixty- two  Viceroys  (1535-1821). 
the  last  of  whom  was  Francisco  Novella . Personal  ambition 
and  religious  zeal  stimulated  Cortes  to  the  Conquest,  and 
covetousness  and  the  love  of  power  were  the  salient  character- 
istics of  many  of  the  peruked  and  bespangled  rulers  who  fol- 
lowed him.  These  viceroys  ( virreyes ) were  for  the  most  part 
Spanish  nobles,  prelates,  or  court  politicians,  who  sought  the 
position  for  selfish  purposes  and  with  the  idea  of  repairing 
their  dilapidated  fortunes  in  the  New  World.  They  ruled  over 
one  of  the  most  extensive  empires  of  the  world  — a colony 
which  extended  over  20  degrees  of  latitude,  which  embraced 
every  known  climate,  and  which  contained  millions  of  human 
beings.  They  were  responsible  only  to  the  King  of  Spain  and 
the  powerful  Consejo  de  las  Indias  (thousands  of  miles  away), 
and  during  their  incumbency  of  office,  the  conquered  territory 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


cxcv 


was  exploited  for  the  Viceroys,  the  Church,  and  the  Spanish 
Crown.  The  vice-regal  salary  was  forty  thousand  pesos  a year 
(raised  in  1689  to  $70,000),  and  despite  enormous  expendi- 
tures, some  of  these  petty  kings  were  enabled  to  return  to 
Spain  after  a lapse  of  a few  years  with  vast  fortunes  wrung 
from  the  coerced  and  enslaved  natives.  Foreigners  were  ex- 
cluded from  the  country,  education  was  monopolized  by  the 
clergy,  and  the  best  land,  the  most  profitable  commerce,  and 
the  most  influential  government  offices  were  held  by  the  native 
Spaniards.  But  among  the  men  of  this  long  vice-regal  succes- 
sion were  some  whose  ambition  was  to  uplift  the  oppressed 
Indians  and  to  govern  their  country  for  them,  wisely  and 
well.  Their  names  are  conspicuous  in  Mexican  history  and 
their  memory  is  revered  by  the  people. 

Antonio  de  Mendoza  ( Conde  de  Tendilla  y Comendador  de 
Socuellanos) , the  1st  Viceroy  (1535-50),  was  distinguished  for 
his  humane  efforts  to  mitigate  the  hardships  of  the  enslaved 
Indians.  He  sent  expeditions  northward  on  voyages  of  dis- 
covery; founded  the  cities  of  Valladolid  (now  Morelia)  and 
Guadalajara;  issued  the  first  money  minted  in  Mexico;  aided 
Fray  Pedro  de  Gante  to  establish  schools,  — particularly  the 
celebrated  school  of  Santiago  Tlaltelolco , — and  caused  the 
first  printing-press  to  be  brought  from  Spain.  The  noble 
missionary  Fray  Bartolome  de  las  Casas  reached  Mexico  during 
his  reign  and  received  his  ardent  support.  The  mines  of 
Guanajuato  and  Zacatecas  were  exploited.  The  admirable 
precedent  of  this  benevolent  man  strongly  influenced 

Luis  de  Velasco,  2d  V.  (1550-64).  The  example  of  Las 
Casas  (“ Defender  of  the  Indians”)  for  good  was  so  great  that 
Velasco  emancipated  150,000  Indians  enslaved  by  Spanish 
landowners.  He  founded  (1553)  the  first  University  in  New 
Spain,  and  the  Hospital  Real;  distributed  Crown  Lands 
among  the  Indians  ; and  by  means  of  expeditions  northward, 

, he  essayed  to  pacify  and  civilize  the  nomad  tribes  of  those 
i regions.  One  of  his  captains  discovered  the  still  enormously 
productive  silver-mines  of  Fresnillo  and  Sombrerete.  Silao, 
Durango,  and  San  Miguel  de  Allende  were  founded  during  his 
reign,  and  the  great  Dike  of  San  Lazaro  was  built.  He  died 
in  Mex.  City  July  31,  1564,  and  he  is  revered  as  the  great 
“ emancipator.” 

Gaston  de  Peralta,  3d  V.  (1566-68),  was  succeeded  by 

Martin  Enriquez  de  Almanza  (Knight  of  Santiago),  4th  V. 
(1568-80).  He  was  known  as  the  “Inquisitor,”  because  the 
Inquisition  was  established  in  Mexico  during  his  reign.  During 
his  incumbency  of  office  the  Jesuits  reached  Mexico  (1572); 
the  corner-stone  of  the  Mex.  City  Cathedral  was  laid  (1573), 
and  the  city  of  Leon  was  founded  (1576).  During  the  time  of 

Lorenzo  Juarez  de  Mendoza , 5th  V.  (1580-84),  the  fabulously 
rich  mines  of  San  Luis  Potosf  were  discovered. 


CXCV1 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


Pedro  Moya  de  Contreras  (Archbishop  of  Mexico),  the  6th 
V.  (15S4),  was  succeeded  (in  1585)  by 

Alvaro  Manriquez  de  Zuniga  {Marques  de  Villa  Manrique ), 
7th  Y.  (15S5-90) , wiio  extended  the  commerce  between  Mexico 
and  the  Far  East. 

Luis  de  Velasco  {Marques  de  Salinas),  a son  of  the  “ Emanci- 
pator, ” was  the  8th  V.  (1590-95).  He  framed  just  laws  for  the 
protection  of  the  Indians,  and  was  a wise  and  benevolent 
ruler. 

Gaspar  de  Zuniga  y Acevedo  (Count  of  Monterey),  the  9th 
V.  (1595-1603),  extended  the  Spanish  dominions  into  Cali- 
fornia, founded  there  the  town  of  Monterey,  another  of  the 
same  name  in  the  Mexican  state  of  Nuevo  Leon,  and  Santa  Fe 
in  New  Mexico.  He  also  conveyed  to  Spain  the  astounding 
information  that  since  the  coming  of  the  Spaniards  to  Mexico, 
the  native  population  had  fallen  off  three  fourths ! 

Juan  Manuel  Hurtado  de  Mendoza  y Luna  {Marques  de 
Montesclaros ),  10th  Y.  (1603-07),  was  succeeded  by 

Luis  de  Velasco,  who  returned  from  Peru  and  became  Yiceroy 
(11th),  for  the  second  time  (1607-11).  The  great  Cut  of 
Huehuetoca  (p.  135),  aimed  to  drain  the  Yalley  of  Mexico, 
was  begun  by  his  order. 

Archbishop  Garcia  Guerra,  12th  V.  (1611-12). 

Diego  Fernandez  de  Cordova  {Marques  de  Guadalcazar) , 
13th  V.  (1612-21). 

Diego  Carrillo  de  Mendoza  y Pimentel  {Conde  de  Priego  y 
Marques  de  Gelves ),  14th  Y.  (1621-  24). 

Rodrigo  Pacheco  Osorio  {Marques  de  Cerralvo),  15th  V* 
(1624-35). 

Lope  Diaz  de  Armendariz,  16th  V.  (1635-40). 

Diego  Lopez  Pacheco  Cabrera  y Bobadilla  {Duque  de  Escalona 
y Marques  de  Villena),  17th  V.  (1640-42). 

Juan  de  Palafox  y Mendoza  (Bishop  of  Puebla),  18th  Y. 
(for  about  5 months). 

Garcia  Sarmiento  de  Sotomayor  (Count  of  Salvatierra) , 19th 
V.  (1642-48). 

Marcos  Lopez  de  Torres  y Rueda  (Bishop  of  Yucatan),  20th] 
V.  (1648-50),  was  a zealous  bigot,  who  caused  15  persons  to 
be  strangled  and  burned  by  the  Inquisition. 

Luis  Enriquez  de  Guzman  (Count  of  Alba  Liste ),  21st  V. 
(1650-53). 

Francisco  Fernandez  de  la  Cueva  {Duque  de  Albuquerque ), 
22d  V.  (1653-60). 

Juan  de  Leiva  y de  la  Cerda  {Marques  de  Leiva  y de  Ladrada), 
23d  V.  (1660-64). 

Diego  Osorio  de  Escobar  y Llamas  (Bishop  of  Puebla),  24th 
V.  (for  a few  months  in  1664)  was  succeeded  by 

Antonio  Sebastian  de  Toledo , Molina  y Salazar , 25th  V. 
(1664-73). 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


CXCVll 


Pedro  Nuno  Colon  de  Portugal  y Castro  ( Duque  de  Veraguas ), 
26th  V.  (for  six  days  in  1673). 

Fray  Payo  Enriquez  de  Rivera  (Archbishop  of  Mexico),  27th 
V.  (1673-80),  was  a wise  and  progressive  ruler,  untainted 
by  the  bigotry  which  at  that  time  was  a clerical  trait. 

Tomas  Antonio  Manrique  de  la  Cerda , 28th  Y.  (1680-86), 

Melchor  Portocarrero  Laso  de  la  Vega  (Count  of  Monclova), 
29th  V.  (1686-88),  founded  Monclova  (State  of  Coahuila),  and 
built,  at  his  own  expense,  the  great  aqueduct  which  formerly 
brought  water  from  Chapultepec  to  Mexico  City. 

Gaspar  de  la  Cerda  Sandoval  Silva  y Mendoza  ( Conde  de 
Galve) , 30th  V.  (1688-96),  accomplished  the  Conquest  of  Texas 
(1691) ; founded  (1692)  the  city  of  Pensacola  (Florida) ; sent 
many  colonists  to  New  Mexico,  and  proved  an  energetic, 
far-sighted,  and  just  ruler.  During  his  reign  the  first  Amer- 
ican newspaper,  El  Mer curio  Volante , was  established. 

Juan  de  Ortega  Montanez  (Bishop  of  Michoacan),  31st  V, 
(1696),  was  replaced  by 

Jose  Sarmiento  Valladares  ( Conde  de  Montezuma) , 32d  V. 
(1696-1701),  who  wedded  Maria  Andrea  Montezuma , third 
Countess  and  fourth  in  descent  from  Montezuma  11 , through 
his  son,1  Pedro  J ohualicahuatzin  Montezuma. 

Juan  de  Ortega  Montanez  became  Viceroy  (33d)  a second 
time  in  1701. 

Fernandez  de  la  Cueva  Enriquez  ( Duque  de  Albuquerque ), 
34th  V.  (1701-11),  colonized  New  Mexico  and  founded  the  pre- 
sent town  of  Albuquerque  (U.  S.  A.). 

Fernando  de  Alencastro  Marona  y Silva  ( Marques  de 
V aldafuentes) , 35th  V . (1711-16). 

Baltazar  de  Zuniga  Guzman  Sotomayor  y Mendosa , 36th  V. 
(1716-22). 

Juan  de  Acuna  ( Marques  de  Casafuerte),  37th  V,  (1722-34), 
conducted  the  affairs  of  the  Province  in  a liberal  and  enlight- 
ened way.  He  was  a Peruvian,  and  the  only  American-born 
Viceroy. 

Juan  Antonio  de  Vizarron  y Eguiarreta  (Archbishop  of 
Mexico),  38th  V.  (1734-40). 

Pedro  de  Castro  Figueroa  y Salazar , 39th  V.  (1740-42). 

Pedro  Cebrian  y Agustin  (Conde  de  Fuenclara),  40th  V. 
(1742-46),  made  the  first  effort  to  collect  and  tabulate  prac- 
tical statistical  information  concerning  Mexico. 

Juan  Francisco  deGiiemes  y Horcasitas,  41st  V.  (1746-55). 

Agustin  de  Ahumada  y Villalon , 42d  V.  (1755-60). 


1 The  Spaniards  impressed  their  wishes  and  their  personality  so  strongly 
on  the  Indians  that  many  of  these  subjects— some  through  inclination, 
others  through  fear— discarded  their  own  names  for  Spanish  titles.  In 
certain  cases  proper  names  were  retained  and  Castilian  Christian  names 

were  added. 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


cxcviii 

Francisco  Cajigal  de  la  Vega  (ex-Govemor  of  Cuba),  43d 
V.  for  a brief  period. 

Joaquin  de  Monserrat  ( Marques  de  Cruillas),  44th  V.  (1760- 
66),  organized  for  the  first  time  a regular  army  in  Mexico. 

Carlos  Francisco  de  Croix  (. Marques  de  Croix),  45th  Y. 
(1766-71),  raised  the  salary  of  the  Mexican  Viceroys  from 
840,000  to  870,000  a year.  Many  civic  improvements.  He 
doubled  the  size  of  the  Alameda ; sent  a royal  convoy  to  Spain 
(1770)  with  thirty  millions  of  silver  pesos,  and  was  instru- 
mental in  enforcing  the  royal  order  (of  June  25,  1767)  which 
expelled  the  Jesuits  from  Mexico.  An  able  ruler. 

Antonio  Maria  de  Bucareli  y JJrsxia,  46th  Y.  (1771-79), 
a wise,  benevolent  , and  thoroughly  admirable  man,  whose  in- 
fluence is  yet  felt  in  Mexico.  He  developed  the  country  in  a 
variety  of  ways;  increased  commerce;  minted  8127,396,000 
in  Mex.  silver;  fostered  the  military  strength  of  the  nation, 
and  carried  to  completion  more  civic  reforms  than  had  all  the 
viceroys  combined  who  preceded  him.  With  this  man  arose 
the  star  of  New  Spain.  A book  could  be  filled  with  the  stories 
(still  current  among  the  people)  of  his  wisdom,  kindness,  and 
judgment.  He  died  in  office  April  9,  1779,  and  was  buried 
with  great  honors  in  the  church  of  Nvestra  Seiiora  de  Guada- 
lupe. Several  of  the  principal  streets  of  the  city  (the  Calles 
de  Bucareli , p.  371)  were  named  for  him.  and  his  memory  is 
fresh  and  sweet  in  the  hearts  of  intelligent  Mexicans. 

Martin  de  Mayorga  (Governor  of  Guatemala),  47th  V. 
(1779-83). 

Matias  de  Galvez , surnamed  “ The  Diligent,”  48th  V.  (1783- 
85),  an  earnest,  quiet  worker,  with  an  ambition  to  elevate  the 
people  to  better  things. 

Bernardo  de  Galvez  { son  of  Matias  de  G.),  49th  V.  (1785-87), 
constructed  the  Castillo  de  Chapultepec  (p.  386). 

Alonzo  Nunez  de  Haro  y Peralta  (Archbishop  of  Mexico), 
50th  V.  (1787). 

Manuel  Antonio  Flores  (Governor  of  Bogota),  51st  Y. 
(1787-89). 

Juan  Vicente  de  Giiemes  Pacheco  de  Padilla  (Conde  de 
Revillagigedo) , 52d  V.  (1789-94),  a stern  and  eccentric 
nobleman  with  an  aptitude  for  civic  reform.  He  ably  seconded 
the  work  begun  by  Bucareli;  caused  the  streets  of  Mexico 
City  to  be  cleaned,  paved,  and  lighted ; organized  an  efficient 
police  force;  executed  a number  of  highwaymen;  established 
weekly  posts  between  the  capital  and  outlying  intendencies, 
and  remodelled  the  military  organization.  He  started  an  ex- 
pedition from  Mexico  that  reached  as  far  north  as  Behring's 
Straits.  He  was  wont  to  prowl  the  city’s  streets  at  midnight 
in  search  of  abuses,  which  he  summarily  corrected,  and  he 
placed  a locked  box  with  a slit  in  the  lid,  in  a public  place,  for 
the  receipt  of  petitions  and  complaints  from  those  who  could 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


CXC1X 


not  obtain  a personal  interview  with  him.  One  night  he 
entered  a street  flanked  by  squalid  dwellings  and  terminating 
in  a cut  de  sac.  The  corregidor  (mayor)  was  at  once  ordered  to 
open  a wide  highway  and  to  have  it  completed  so  that  he, 
the  Viceroy,  might  drive  through  it  on  his  way  to  mass  the 
following  morning.  A small  army  of  workmen  were  routed 
out  of  their  beds,  and  the  next  morning  the  Calle  de  Revil - 
lagigedo  (which  now  intersects  the  Avenida  Juarez  at  the 
Alameda  in  Mex.  City)  was  completed. 

Miguel  de  la  Grua  Talamanca  (Marques  de  Branciforte,  an 
Italian  adventurer),  53d  V.  (1794-98),  secured  his  appoint- 
ment by  chicanery,  and  before  his  retirement  succeeded  in 
making  himself  the  most  cordially  detested  official  in  the 
Colony.  During  his  reign  all  that  portion  of  Florida  (now 
U.  S.  A.)  lying  west  of  the  Perdido  River  was  ceded  to  France. 

Miguel  Jose  de  Azanza,  called  “The  Bonapartist,”  54th  V. 
(1798-1800). 

Felix  Berenguer  de  Marquina , 55th  V.  (1800-03),  caused  to 
be  made  the  splendid  equestrian  statue  (comp.  p.  373)  of 
Carlos  IV,  at  Mexico  City. 

Jose  de  Iturrigaray,  “The  Monarchist,”  56th  V.  (1803-08). 

Pedro  Garibay , “The  Revolutionist,”  57th  V.  (1808),  ad 
interim. 

Francisco  Javier  Lizana  (Archbishop  of  Mexico),  58th  V. 
(1809-10). 

Pedro  Catani  (Presidente  of  the  Audiencia),  59th  V.  (1810), 
ad  interim. 

Francisco  Javier  Venegas , 60th  V.  (1810-16).  Coincident 
with  the  opening  of  his  reign  began  the  Revolutionary  period. 

Juan  Ruiz  de  Apodaca , 61st  V.  (1816-21),  was  known  as 
“The  Unfortunate,”  because  he  reached  Mexico  when  the 
power  of  Spain  was  declining,  and  the  country  was  in  the  throes 
of  a revolutionary  war  which  the  Spanish  troops  were  unable 
to  quell. 

Francisco  de  Novella,  Azahal,. Perez  y Sicardo,  62d  V.  (1821), 
remained  in  office  but  a few  months,  and  was  the  last  of  the 
vice-regal  line.  He  was  relieved  by 

Juan  O’Donoju,  Captain-General  of  New  Spain,  and  the 
last  Spanish  ruler  in  Mexico.  He  reached  Vera  Cruz  in  1821, 
took  the  oath  of  office  there  Aug.  3,  but  was  prevented  by 
the  revolutionists  from  exercising  his  authority.  He  died 
at  Mexico  City  Oct.  7,  from  an  attack  of  pleurisy  brought  on 
— it  is  said  — by  chagrin  at  the  thought  that  Mexico  was  no 
longer  a Spanish  colony.1 

h.  War  for  Independence.  During  the  reign  of  the  Span- 
ish Viceroy  Jose  de  Iturrigaray , in  Mexico,  the  internal  affairs 

1 Portraits  in  oil  of  all  the  succession  of  rulers,  from  Cortes  to  O'  Donoju. 
may  be  studied  in  the  National  Museum  (p.  298),  and  in  the  Palacio 
Municipal  (p.  292)  at  Mexico  City. 


cc 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


of  Spain  were  hopelessly  muddled ; Carlos  IV  had  abdicated 
in  favor  of  Ferdinand  VII , who,  in  turn,  had  been  forced  to 
step  aside  in  favor  of  Joseph  Bonaparte.  Iturrigaray  believed 
that  Mexico  should  govern  itself  (with  a Spanish  Viceroy  as 
King) , and  he  convened  an  assembly  of  notables  with  the  aim 
of  securing  the  necessary  power.  He  won  over  the  masses  by 
promising  to  relinquish  the  regency  as  soon  as  another  Spanish 
King  should  occupy  the  Spanish  throne.  The  Spaniards  in 
Mexico  rebelled,  seized  the  Viceroy,  and  imprisoned  him  in  the 
fortress  of  San  Juan  de  Ulua  (at  Vera  Cruz),  whence  he  was 
sent  back  to  Spain. 

The  independence  idea  appealed  to  the  people  and  they 
nursed  it.  Centuries  of  despotism  and  misgovernment  had 
failed  to  kill  out  the  patriotism  and  strength  of  the  Mexicans, 
and  independence  soon  became  the  chief  thought  of  every 
one.  Correspondence  clubs  were  established  in  some  of  the 
towns,  and  plans  for  an  early  uprising  were  formulated. 
Miguel  Hidalgo  y Costilla , parish  priest  of  the  village  of 
Dolores  (in  Guanajuato),  took  the  idea  of  freedom  for  Mexico 
nearest  to  heart.  He  was  a Creole  (born  May  8,  1753),  nearly 
sixty  years  old.  with  a powerful  influence  over  the  Indians  of 
his  parish.  He  began  the  manufacture  of  lances,  and  planned 
an  uprising  during  the  annual  Indian  fiesta  which  began  in 
Dec.  His  nearest  confidants  were  the  several  members  of  an 
alleged  Society  for  the  Study  of  the  Fine  Arts,  established  in 
1S08  in  the  city  of  Queretaro.  From  this  centre  a sustained 
influence  was  soon  radiating,  and  the  society  counted  upon 
many  members  in  the  adjoining  State  of  Guanajuato.  The 
influence  of  the  Mayor  ( Corregidor ) of  Queretaro  was  soon 
secured,  as  well  as  that  of  his  wife,  La  Corregidora , Dona 
Josef  a Ortiz  de  Dominguez.  Coincidently  arms  and  ammuni- 
tion, and  the  adherence  of  Captains  Ignacio  Allende  and  Juan 
Aldama  of  the  King’s  Regiment,  stationed  hard  by,  were  also 
obtained. 

Mariano  Galvan , a traitor  to  the  cause,  imparted  his  know- 
ledge to  the  Queretaro  postmaster,  who  immediately  repaired 
to  Mexico  City  and  disclosed  the  revolutionary  plans  to  the 
Government.  On  the  night  of  Sept.  13,  an  intimation  of  the 
publicity  of  the  plans  reached  the  ears  of  Rafael  Gil  de  Leon, 
an  ecclesiastic  judge  of  Q.,  and  because  of  his  friendship  for 
the  mayor  he  warned  him.  The  latter  at  once  sought  the  ad- 
vice of  his  wife,  who  in  turn  sent  a trusty  messenger  to  warn 
Hidalgo  of  his  peril.  The  Cura  was  told  (at  2 a.  m.  Sept.  16) 
that  the  conspiracy  was  discovered,  and  he  decided  to  strike 
the  blow  at  once.  At  early  mass,  he  announced  to  his  parish- 
ioners that  “Spain  was  no  longer  Spanish,  but  was  French, 
and  that  the  time  for  Mexico  to  be  free  had  come.”  He  dwelt 
upon  how  the  Spanish  soldiery  had  oppressed  even  the  peace- 
ful inhabitants  of  his  own  village,  stealing  their  savings, 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


cci 


ruining  their  fields,  and  violating  their  homes.  The  modest 
silk  industry  started  by  Hidalgo  had  been  destroyed,  as  the 
Spaniards  had  cut  down  the  mulberry  trees.  The  Indians 
appeared  ripe  for  a revolt.  Hidalgo  then  rang  the  famous 
liberty  bell  (comp.  p.  268),  and  voiced  the  stirring  appeal 
known  since  as  the  Grito  de  Dolores  (the  cry  from  Dolores). 
This  was,  in  substance:  “Long  live  our  most  Holy  Mother 
of  Guadalupe!  Long  live  America,  and  death  to  bad  govern- 
ment !”  The  zealous  patriot  began  the  march  forthwith. 
Passing  the  church  of  Atotonilco,  he  took  therefrom  a banner 
bearing  a picture  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe,  and,  affixing  it 
to  his  lance,  adopted  it  as  the  standard  of  the  “Army  of  In- 
dependence.” The  making  of  the  struggle  a religious  war  as 
well  as  one  for  freedom  was  more  the  promptings  of  a pious 
mind  than  a premeditated  stroke  of  diplomacy.  The  priest 
felt  that  with  so  redoubtable  a patroness  victory  would  assur- 
edly be  theirs. 

The  idea  filled  the  Indians  with  enthusiasm,  and  when  the 
insurgents  reached  the  town  of  San  Miguel  that  night,  the 
regiment  to  which  Captain  Allende  belonged  declared  at  once 
for  independence.  Celaya  surrendered  on  Sept.  21,  as  the 
army  marched  through  on  its  way  to  the  rich  city  of  Guana- 
juato. An  organization  of  the  army  was  attempted  at  Celaya, 
and  Hidalgo  was  proclaimed  Captain-General  of  his  20,000 
troops. 

Guanajuato,  capital  of  the  Province  of  G.,  contained  80,000 
inhabitants,  the  richest  silver-mines  in  Spanish- America,  and 
was,  in  point  of  wealth,  second  to  Mexico  City.  After  desperate 
fighting,  the  place  was  captured.  The  Spaniards  took  refuge 
in  the  Alhondiga , or  Castle  of  Grenaditas,  and  one  of 
the  bloodiest  battles  of  the  revolution  soon  raged  round  its 
walls.  The  insurgents  were  for  the  most  part  armed  with  bows 
and  arrows,  slings,  machetes  (cane-knives),  and  lances,  and 
while  the  provincial  militia  fought  with  great  determination, 
under  skilled  officers,  the  impetuous  onslaught  of  the  patriots 
won.  Despite  Hidalgo's  earnest  entreaties,  a general  massacre 
took  place.  Three  centuries  of  Spanish  misrule  and  oppression 
told  upon  the  Indians,  and  their  war-cry,  “ Mueran  los  Gachu - 
pines  ” (death  to  the  Spaniards),  was  emphasized  by  three  days 
of  carnage  and  destruction. 

From  the  Alhondiga , Hidalgo  secured  five  millions  of  pesos , 
which  went  to  swell  the  treasury  of  the  revolutionists.  The 
province  declared  for  him  and  many  of  the  provincial  militia 
deserted  to  his  standard.  He  at  once  had  the  bells  of  the  city 
cast  into  cannon,  employed  the  mint  to  coin  money  (in  the 
name  of  Ferdinand  VII),  and  continued  his  attempts  to  organ- 
ize his  army. 

Meanwhile  the  Viceroy  had  awakened  to  the  dangers  of  the 
situation,  and  was  sending  out  troops  under  skilled  command- 


CCI1 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


ers  to  combat  the  insurgents,  and  to  protect  places  along 
their  proposed  line  of  march.  The  Church  became  alarmed  at 
the  peril  which  threatened  it  through  a government  over 
which  it  had  established  a quasi-protectorate.  The  Bishop 
of  Michoacan  hurled  edicts  of  excommunication  against  all 
insurgents,  and  Archbishop  Lizana  issued  a pastoral  letter 
combating  the  principles  upon  which  Hidalgo  justified  the 
revolution,  and  ordering  the  Spanish  and  Creole  clergy  to 
declare  from  their  pulpits,  and  cause  it  to  be  everywhere 
known,  that  the  purpose  of  the  revolution  was  to  subvert  the 
Holy  Catholic  Church.  The  Inquisition  charged  Hidalgo  wdth 
every  error  of  which  that  tribunal  took  cognizance.  The  Vice- 
roy Venegas  published  a proclamation  offering  a reward  of 
ten  thousand  pesos  for  the  capture,  dead  or  alive,  of  Hidalgo 
and  his  two  chief  military  companions. 

The  army  left  Guanajuato  (Oct.  10)  and  proceeded  to 
Valladolid  (now  Morelia),  which  immediately  declared  for 
independence.  Upon  the  approach  of  the  army,  the  Bishop, 
Council,  and  civil  authorities  evacuated  the  place.  Here  Hi- 
dalgo's force  was  swelled  by  a considerable  body  of  soldiery, 
and  the  erstwhile  country  priest  found  himself  at  the  head 
of  an  undisciplined  army  of  80,000  men.  He  took  vast  sums 
from  the  coffers  of  the  Valladolid  Cathedral,  but  was  excom- 
municated by  the  Bishop  of  the  diocese  for  the  act.  Here  he 
also  learned  of  a vice-regal  proclamation  decreeing  that  any 
one  taken  with  arms  against  the  Government  would  be  shot 
within  fifteen  minutes  after  capture  without  the  ‘‘benefit  of 
clergy.” 

The  army  began  its  march  to  Mexico  City,  gaining  new 
adherents  by  the  way.  Hidalgo  reviewed  his  troops  at  Acam- 
baro  and  was  proclaimed  u Generalisimo”  Oct.  30,  he  fought 
his  first  engagement  with  the  royal  forces  in  the  field  (at 
Monte  de  las  Cruces ),  and  won  a signal  victory  over  the  Span- 
ish forces  under  General  Truxillo.  The  defeat  demoralized 
the  vice-regal  army,  and  had  Hidalgo  moved  at  once  upon  the 
capital,  it  is  probable  that  it  would  have  fallen  into  his  hands 
and  given  success  to  his  plans.  Herein  he  proved  a poor 
generalisimo , and  showed  a lack  of  military  sagacity.  After 
advancing  to  the  hacienda  of  Quaximalpa  (5  leagues  from  the 
panic-stricken  capital)  and  sending  a summons  (which  elicited 
no  reply)  to  the  Viceroy  to  surrender,  he  retreated  with  his 
army  toward  the  interior  of  the  country.  On  Nov.  7,  the  army 
encountered  a train  of  artillery  and  10,000  well-equipped 
Creole  troops  commanded  by  General  Felix  Maria  Calleja  del 
Rey,  who  had  been  sent  out  to  concentrate  the  vice-regal 
forces.  In  the  desperate  battle  which  ensued,  Hidalgo’s  In- 
dians displayed  more  courage  than  discretion;  rushing  with 
their  clubs  and  improvised  lances  upon  the  bayonets  of  the 
enemy,  to  fall  in  heaps.  They  were  so  ignorant  of  the  effects 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


cciii 

of  artillery  that  they  ran  up  to  cannon  in  action  and  attempted 
to  stop  them  with  their  sombreros.  After  beating  a hasty  re- 
treat, it  was  found  that  they  had  suffered  a loss  equal  to  the 
entire  Spanish  force. 

Entering  Guadalajara,  Hidalgo  concentrated  his  forces  and 
organized  a government.  Calleja  went  to  Guanajuato,  and 
made  that  city  the  scene  of  notable  cruelties  in  retaliation 
for  the  excesses  committed  by  Hidalgo’s  Indians.  Fourteen 
thousand  of  the  inhabitants  were  butchered. 

A commissioner  sent  by  Hidalgo  from  Guadalajara  to  the 
United  States  was  captured  by  the  Spaniards,  the  patriot’s 
plans  and  resources  were  learned,  and  his  downfall  hastened. 
While  he  was  engaged  in  promulgating  decrees  abolishing 
slavery  and  stamp  duties,  royal  forces  were  sent  against  him, 
a battle  was  fought  at  Puente  de  Calderon  (Jan.  16,  1811), 
and  the  army  of  independence  dispersed.  Hidalgo , Allende, 
Aldama , and  Jimenez  held  together  and  started  northward, 
intending  to  secure  assistance  and  purchase  arms  in  the 
United  States.  They  were  captured  and  later  executed, 
and  their  heads  taken  to  Guanajuato  and  placed  upon  pikes 
at  the  four  corners  of  the  Alhondiga , as  “a  warning  to  Mex- 
icans who  chose  to  revolt  against  Spanish  government.” 
There  the  heads  remained  until  independence  was  won.  In 
1823,  their  bodies  were  buried  under  the  Altar  de  los  Reyes , 
in  the  apse  of  the  Mexico  City  Cathedral. 

Hidalgo’s  logical  successor  was  his  pupil,  Jose  Maria  More- 
los, a Mestizo,  a Catholic  priest,  an  intrepid  fighter,  and  a com- 
mander of  marked  ability.  He  took  over  the  command  and 
began  a successful  and  destructive  campaign  against  the  Span- 
iards. In  six-and-twenty  hard-fought  engagements  he  was 
successful  in  all  but  two.  In  a battle  near  Acapulco  (whither 
he  was  sent  by  Hidalgo  in  1810),  he  defeated  the  vice-regal 
troops,  captured  800  muskets,  5 pieces  of  artillery,  700  pris- 
oners, much  ammunition,  and  a large  sum  of  money.  After 
the  war  he  was  known  as  “The  Hero  of  a Hundred  Battles.” 

Among  the  trusted  lieutenants  of  Morelos  was  another 
priest,  Mariano  Matamoros , noted  for  his  military  genius. 
Aiding  him  were  the  celebrated  Dr.  Cos , the  Bravos  brothers, 
Galena , Manuel  de  Mier  y Ter  an,  Felix  Hernandez,  Ignacio 
Lopez  Rayon,  Jose  Maria  Liceaga,  and  a host  of  ambitious 
patriots. 

Early  in  1812  two  battalions  of  Spanish  troops,  including 
a famous  regiment  of  Asturias  (which  had  won  the  title  of 
“the  Invincibles”  in  the  Peninsula),  came  to  Mexico  to  sup- 
port the  vice-regal  government,  and  to  assist  in  reducing  the 
Independents  to  subjection.  The  insurgents  were  severely 
punished,  but  their  military  exploits  were  not  checked.  A 
guerrilla  warfare  now  raged  throughout  the  colony,  and  the 
royal  troops  were  harassed  incessantly.  The  exploits  of  the 


CC1V 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


rancheros  (ranchmen)  formed  one  of  the  most  picturesque 
chapters  of  the  long  war.  Expert  in  the  use  of  the  lariat; 
born  with  an  aptitude  for  guerrilla  fighting,  hardy,  brave,  and 
persistent,  they  were  to  the  Spaniards  what  Morgan  and  his 
shifty  band  "were  to  the  Northern  troops  during  the  American  i 
war  of  1864.  They  travelled  usually  in  small  groups,  and  | 
scattered  when  danger  threatened,  to  reunite  at  some  given 
point  miles  away.  Each  unit  was  a formidable  fighting  ma- 
chine, at  once  dreaded  and  detested  by  the  Iberian  troops,  I 
who  were  unused  to  being  dragged  from  their  saddles  by  a 
hurtling  lasso,  bumped  across  a cacti-strewn  plain  and  trussed  I 
and  hustled  like  yearling  steers. 

Morelos  now  called  a Congress  of  Mexicans,  and  essayed  to 
organize  an  Independent  Nation.  Forty  deputies  assembled 
at  Chilpancingo  in  Sept.,  1813,  and  Morelos  was  nominated 
Captain-General  of  the  Independent  forces;  decrees  were 
passed  abolishing  slavery,  imprisonment  for  debt,  and  the 
collection  of  tithes  for  the  support  of  religious  societies.  The 
Congress  removed  to  Tlacotepec,  and  finally  convened  in 
Apatzingan,  where  it  published  (Nov.  16,  1813)  its  formal 
Declaration  of  Independence  of  Spain.  “Mexico  was  declared 
free  from  Spanish  control,  with  liberty  to  work  out  its  own 
destiny,  and  with  the  Roman  Catholic  religion  for  its  spiritual 
guidance.”  The  name  chosen  for  the  new  nation  was  “The 
Kingdom  of  Anahuac.”  A Constitution,  liberal  in  its  pro- 
visions, was  adopted.  Copies  of  this,  and  the  Declaration, 
were,  by  order  of  the  Viceroy,  ceremoniously  burned  in  pub- 
lic in  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  in  the  principal  towns  of  the 
Republic. 

Morelos  now  undertook  to  traverse  a section  of  the  country 
in  possession  of  the  Spaniards,  and  was  captured  (near  Tex- 
malaca),  loaded  with  chains,  and  taken  as  a prisoner  to  the 
capital.  He  was  brought  before  the  Holy  Office,  condemned, 
and  his  auto-de-je  was  the  last  pronounced  by  the  Inquisition 
in  Mexico.  After  being  degraded  by  the  priesthood  he  was 
handed  over  to  the  secular  arm,  and  was  shot  at  San  Cristobal 
Eca tepee  in  Dec  , 1815.  I 

The  heroic  days  of  the  revolution  ended  with  Morelos , and 
the  cause  soon  languished.  When  (Sept.,  1816)  Calleja  del  Rey 
was  succeeded  in  the  Virreinato  by  Juan  Ruiz  de  Apodaca , the 
insurgents  were  apparently  under  Spanish  control.  Every 
captured  revolutionist  had  been  summarily  shot.  With  the 
exception  of  the  freebooting  expedition  of  Francisco  Javier  \ 
Mina , in  1817,  Mexico  was  so  little  disturbed  by  actual  war 
until  1820,  that  the  Viceroy,  whose  policy  was  conciliatory, 
reported  to  the  Regent  that  he  would  answer  for  the  safety 
of  Mexico,  and  that  there  was  no  need  of  sending  any  more 
troops  from  Spain. 

But  a formidable  uprising  soon  occurred,  and  the  Viceroy 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


ccv 


appointed  Agustin  de  Iturbide,  commander  of  the  District 
of  the  South.  After  fighting  a few  engagements  with  the  in- 
surgents under  General  Vicente  Guerrero,  Iturbide  met  the 
latter  and  proposed  that  they  should  unite  in  proclaiming 
the  independence  of  Mexico.  In  conformity,  Iturbide  pub- 
lished (Feb.  24)  the  famous  Plan  de  Iguala  known  as  Las 
Tres  Garantias , in  that  it  provided  for  the  conservation  of  the 
Roman  Catholic  Church,  for  the  absolute  independence  of 
Mexico  as  a moderate  monarchy,  with  an  ostensible  adhesion 
to  Ferdinand  VII,  and  for  the  union  of  Spaniards  and  Mex- 
icans in  the  bonds  of  friendship.  The  plan  received  the  im- 
mediate support  of  the  clergy,  who  just  now  found  themselves 
in  an  awkward  situation.1 

The  colors  of  the  Mexican  flag  (adopted  April  14,  1823) 
represented  the  Tres  Garantias : white  (religious  purity) ; red 
(union  of  Spaniards  and  Mexicans);  green  (independence). 
Iturbide1  s army  was  thereafter  called  the  Army  of  the  Three 
Guarantees. 

Revolutionary  leaders,  who  had  retired  from  the  struggle 
discouraged,  came  to  the  front,  the  people  arose  en  masse , 
and  Mexico  was  soon  aflame  with  the  sacred  cause  of  patri- 
otism. The  Viceroy,  Apodaca  (the  Unfortunate),  was  forced 
to  resign,  and  Francisco  de  Novella  became  Viceroy  ad  interim. 
The  Plan  de  Iguala  was  a popular  success,  and  Iturbide  cap- 
tured the  cities  of  Valladolid,  Queretaro,  and  Puebla,  and 
laid  siege  to  Mexico  City.  When  General  Juan  O'Donoju , 
bearing  the  commission  of  Captain-General,  arrived  at  Vera 
Cruz  (July  30,  1821)  to  supersede  the  Viceroy  Novella , he 
found  the  country  in  the  hands  of  the  Independents,  and  Vera 
Cruz  itself  in  the  possession  of  the  Independent  Chief,  Antonio 
Lopez  de  Santa  Anna  (b.  Feb.  21,  1795,  d.  June  21,  1876). 

The  Spanish  representative  was  placed  in  the  embarrassing 
position  of  having  to  ask  of  Santa  Anna  the  privilege  of  land- 
ing upon  the  continent,  and  of  requesting  of  Iturbide  a safe 
conduct  to  the  capital.  Perceiving  that  it  would  be  impossible 
to  arrest  the  revolution  by  force,  O'Donoju  proposed  to  treat 
with  Iturbide.  They  met  at  Cordoba  (Aug.  24,  1821),  and 
O’Donoju  signed,  on  behalf  of  his  Government,  the  “Treaty 
of  Cordoba.”  It  embodied  the  Plan  de  Iguala;  declared  Mexico 
sovereign  and  independent;  provided  for  a constitutional 

1 In  1820  the  Spanish  revolutionists  proclaihied  the  Constitution  of 
1812,  and  Ferdinand  found  himself  under  the  necessity  of  supporting  it. 
This  Constitution  dissolved  the  convents,  abolished  the  Inquisition,  or- 
dained the  freedom  of  the  press,  and  seized  the  tithes  of  the  secular  clergy 
on  the  ground  that  the  money  was  required  by  the  State  in  a great  emer- 
gency. The  Mexican  clergy  at  once  found  their  privileges  and  alleged 
rights  menaced,  and  despite  the  fact  that  nine  years  before,  they  had 
opposed  the  revolution  in  Mexico,  and  had  denounced  as  heretical  the 
idea  of  Independence  or  separation  from  Spain,  they  now  discovered 
that  their  interests  demanded  “an  absolute  separation  from  Spain  and 
its  radicalism! 


CCV1 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


representative  monarchy,  for  the  call  of  the  Bourbon  family  ' 
of  Spain  to  the  throne,  and  for  the  immediate  establishment 
of  a provisional  government,  pending  the  arrival  of  the  1 
chosen  monarch.  It  also  assured  to  the  people  the  liberty  of 
the  press,  and  the  equal  rights  of  Spaniards  and  Mexicans,  | 
and  provided  that  the  Army  of  the  Three  Guarantees  should  1 
occupy  the  capital,  and  that  the  Spanish  troops  should  be  it 
sent  out  of  the  country  as  soon  as  possible. 

Iturbide  made  his  triumphal  entry  into  Mexico  City  Sept,  t 
27, 1821,  and  on  that  date  ended  the  Spanish  power  in  Mexico. 
He  was  hailed  as  “Liberator/’  and  the  occasion  was  marked 
by  great  rejoicing.  The  title  of  Lord  High  Admiral  was  con- 
ferred upon  him,  and  as  Generalisimo  of  the  Army  and  head 
of  the  nation,  the  people  addressed  him  as  Serene  Highness.  : 

Guatemala  voluntarily  united  with  Mexico  Feb.  21,  1822  1 
(it  seceded  July  1,  1823),  and  Iturbide  found  himself  the  mas-  i 
ter  of  a nation  whose  territorial  extent  was  one  of  the  greatest  ; 
in  the  world  — China  and  Russia  alone  being  larger.  Its  pos-  t 
sessions  comprised,  in  addition  to  the  present  Republic  of  :i 
Mexico,  Guatemala  on  the  south,  and  on  the  north  all  the  il 
region  between  the  Red  and  Arkansas  Rivers  and  the  Pacific  : 
Ocean,  extending  as  far  north  as  the  present  northern  bound- 
ary of  the  United  States. 

To  the  great  disgust  of  the  old  Spanish  nobility  he  instituted 
an  order  of  nobility,  calling  the  members  Caballeros  (gentle-  ; 
men)  de  Guadalupe , and  embarked  upon  a riotous  course  i 
which  soon  caused  his  downfall. 

i.  First  Empire.  The  First  Congress  of  the  Mexican  Nation 
convened  Feb.  24,  1822,  and  was  found  to  comprise  three  ! 
distinct  parties,  notwithstanding  the  oath  taken  by  each 
deputy  to  support  the  Plan  de  Iguala  and  the  Treaty  of  Cor - I 
doba.  One  party — composed  of  the  army,  the  clergy,  and  I 
a few  malcontents  — wanted  to  place  Iturbide  on  the  throne.  i| 
The Republicanos  wanted  the  “Plan”  set  aside  and  a Federal  f 
Republic  established.  The  Independents  and  the  Spaniards 
— united  only  in  their  hatred  of  Iturbide  — desired  to  have 
executed  exactly  the  Plan  de  Iguala  by  placing  on  the  throne  i’ 
a Spanish  Prince.  The  meeting  was  the  signal  for  hostilities  j 
which  extended  over  nearly  fifty  years. 

On  May  18,  1822,  the  “Liberator”  forced  a pronuncia-  , 
miento  in  his  favor  in  the  cuartel  (barracks)  of  San  Hipolito 
(Mexico  City),  and  in  a turbulent  meeting  of  Congress,  from 
which  Republican  members  were  excluded,  Iturbide  was 
elected  Emperor  of  Mexico  by  a vote  of  75  to  15.  He  immedi- 
ately took  the  oath  of  office  before  Congress,  and  organized 
a Provisional  Council  of  State.  On  the  21st  of  July  he  and  his 
wife  were  anointed  and  crowned  with  great  solemnity  in  the 
Mexico  City  Cathedral;  Iturbide  assumed  the  title  of  Agustin 
/,  Emperador.  His  first  act  was  to  dissolve  the  existing  Con- 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


CCVll 


gress,  imprison  its  most  contumacious  members,  and  replace 
them  by  a junta  composed  of  two  deputies  from  each  province, 
of  his  own  selection. 

j.  Fall  of  the  Empire  and  Rise  of  the  Republic.  A mon- 
archical government  for  Mexico  was  unsatisfactory  to  the 
Revolutionary  leaders.  The  bombast  of  the  arrogant,  pageant- 
loving  Mestizo  seemed  a poor  result  for  the  sacrifice  of  the 
good  cur  a Hidalgo , of  the  intrepid  Morelos,  Allende,  Aldama , 
and  a hundred  other  pure-minded  patriots.  For  a time  lturbide 
was  able  to  quell  the  uprisings  by  the  aid  of  national  troops, 
but  the  empire  fell  into  disrepute,  and  soon  collapsed.  Gen- 
eral Antonio  Lopez  de  Santa  Anna  headed  (Dec.,  1822)  a for- 
midable uprising  in  Jalapa,  and  in  a month’s  time  lturbide' s 
alleged  empire  was  reduced  to  the  limits  of  Mexico  City. 
Guerrero  and  Bravo  followed  the  example  of  Santa  Anna  and 
led  a revolt  in  the  North.  The  country  was  soon  aflame  with 
anger,  and  rather  than  provoke  a civil  war  lturbide  abdicated 
(March  20,  1823),  and  under  a declaration  of  banishment  from 
the  country,  he  was  permitted  to  retire  from  the  capital.  His 
salary  as  Emperor  had  been  8125,000  a year  (which  he  paid 
to  himself  from  forced  loans  and  with  paper  money  issued  by 
his  commands) , and  in  recognition  of  his  eminent  services  to 
Mexico  he  was  granted  a life  annuity  of  825,000.  Soon  after 
his  retirement  he  wrote  from  London  to  the  Mexican  Govern- 
ment, warning  it  of  the  machinations  of  the  “ Holy  Alliance” 
to  restore  Spanish  rule  in  Mexico.  He  offered  his  services 
should  an  attempt  be  made.  Congress  replied  (April  28)  to  his 
letter  by  a decree  declaring  that  should  lturbide  return  he 
would  be  regarded  as  a traitor  and  be  put  to  death.  Unaware 
of  this,  lturbide  landed  in  disguise  at  Soto  la  Marina  (July 
14,  1824),  was  arrested,  brought  before  the  legislature  of  the 
State  of  Tamaulipas,  and  condemned  to  death.  He  was  shot 
July  24,  1824. 

The  Plan  of  Iguala,  with  its  three  guarantees  of  Religion, 
Independence,  and  Union,  and  the  Treaty  of  Cordoba  were 
now  repudiated  by  Congress.  The  bars  of  green,  white,  and  red 
in  the  flag  of  the  Tres  Garantias  had  been  horizontal ; they 
were  now  changed  to  upright,  with  the  green  bar  next  to  the 
staff,  and  this  was  adopted  as  the  flag  of  the  Republic.  The 
national  coat-of-arms,  showing  an  eagle  upon  a nopal  cactus, 
strangling  a serpent,  was  also  adopted. 

A Congress  was  installed  (Nov.,  1823)  to  discuss  the  adoption 
of  a fundamental  law  for  the  country,  and  it  drew  up  an  in- 
strument closely  resembling  that  of  the  Constitution  of  the 
United  States.  It  contained  thirty-six  articles  (proclaimed 
in  the  form  of  a Constitution,  Oct.  4,  1824)  and  it  defined  the 
government  to  be  Popular,  Representative,  Federal,  and  Re- 
publican. It  proclaimed  the  national  sovereignty;  the  inde- 
pendence of  the  States  (allowing  them  independent  govern- 


ccviii  HISTORY  AND  RACES 

ment  in  internal  affairs,  without  prejudice  to  the  rights  of  the 
Federal  Government) ; the  organization  of  the  supreme  power, 
the  independence  of  the  judicial  powers,  and  guaranteed  to 
the  clergy  their  already  vested  rights.  This  new  Republic 
comprised  five  territories  and  nineteen  states;  each  of  the 
latter  with  a governor,  legislature,  and  a tribunal  of  justice. 
The  States  were  to  organize  their  governments  in  conformity 
to  the  Federal  Act.  The  general  powers  of  the  National  Gov- 
ernment resided  in  the  Federal  District  (Mexico  City)  and 
comprised  a General  Congress,  a Supreme  Court  of  Judicature, 
and  a President  — of  the  United  Mexican  States  — with  four 
Ministers.  The  legislative  power  was  vested  in  a Congress 
comprising  a Senate  and  House  of  Representatives.  The 
Supreme  Court  was  to  be  composed  of  11  judges,  elected  by 
the  legislatures  of  the  several  States. 

The  third  article  of  the  Constitution  was  significant:  “The 
Religion  of  the  Mexican  Nation  is,  and  will  perpetually  be, 
the  Roman  Catholic  Apostolic.  The  nation  will  protect  it  by 
wise  and  just  laws,  and  prohibit  the  exercise  of  any  other 
whatever/’ 

The  Constitution  was  received  by  the  people  with  custom- 
ary enthusiasm.  Felix  Fernandez,  who  styled  himself  Guada- 
lupe Victoria  (in  homage  to  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe) , took  the 
oath  of  office  (Oct.  4,  1825)  as  the  first  President  of  Mexico, 
and  the  country  began  its  career  as  a Constitutional  Republic. 

In  1825  the  fortress  of  San  Juan  de  Ulua  (Vera  Cruz),  until 
then  held  by  the  last  of  the  Spanish  forces,  was  evacuated, 
and  the  Republic  of  Mexico  received  the  formal  recognition 
of  England  and  the  United  States.  The  paternal  support 
received  by  the  fledgeling  Republic  from  the  great  American 
Republic  at  the  north  gave  it  an  impetus  which  had  potent 
bearing  on  its  future.  The  message  of  President  Monroe  (Dec., 
1823)  to  the  Congress  of  the  United  States  contained  the  fol- 
lowing significant  declarations : 

“ (1)  The  American  Continents,  by  the  free  and  independent  condition 
which  they  have  assumed  and  maintained,  are  henceforth  not  to  be  con- 
sidered as  subjects  for  future  colonization  by  any  foreign  power  : (2) 
Any  attempt  on  the  part  of  European  Powers  to  extend  their  political 
systems  to  any  portion  of  the  Western  Hemisphere  would  be  considered 
dangerous  to  the  peace  and  safety  of  the  United  States.  Any  interposi- 
tion by  such  Powers  for  the  purpose  of  opposing  or  controlling  the  gov- 
ernments which  have  declared  their  independence  and  maintained  it, 
and  whose  independence  had  been  acknowledged  by  the  United  States, 
could  not  be  viewed  in  any  other  light  than  as  a manifestation  of  an  un- 
friendly disposition  to  the  United  States;  that  the  political  system  of 
European  Powers  could  not  be  extended  to  any  portion  of  either  of  the 
American  continents  without  endangering  the  peace  and  happiness  of 
the  United  States,  nor  would  such  extension  be  regarded  with  indiffer- 
ence.” 

This  “Monroe  Doctrine”  bomb-shell  “launched  into  the 
armed  camps  of  Europe”  enabled  the  Mexican  Republic  to 
start  on  its  eventful  career  unhampered  by  foreign  interfer- 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


CC1X 


ence;  it  was  effectual  in  preventing  Spain  from  making  further 
serious  attempts  to  reclaim  her  lost  provinces  in  America, 
although  she  withheld  the  recognition  of  the  Republic  of 
Mexico  until  1836.  (Comp.  p.  clx.) 

The  Free  and  Independent  Republic  progressed  during  the 
wise  administration  (4  years)  of  its  first  President.  He  signal- 
ized (1825)  the  anniversary  of  the  Grito  de  Dolores  by  the  lib- 
eration of  certain  slaves  purchased  by  the  Government  with 
a fund  raised  for  that  purpose;  and  of  other  slaves  given  up 
by  their  owners  with  the  same  object  in  view.  A law  was 
passed  (1826)  abolishing  all  titles  of  nobility  and  restricting 
parents  with  regard  to  the  distribution  of  property  among 
their  children,  thus  striking  a blow  at  the  Spanish  institu- 
tion of  mayorazgo,  or  primogeniture.  The  treasury  was  full  of 
money  (the  remainder  of  a loan  of  sixteen  millions  of  dollars, 
negotiated  at  London  in  1823  and  known  as  the  “English 
Debt”),  and  the  future  was  bright. 

But  the  Church  — then  a hot-bed  of  insurrection  and 
unrest  — squirmed  under  its  restrictions  and  the  loss  of  power 
arrogated  to  itself  under  vice-regal  rule.  Any  government 
not  wholly  ecclesiastical  was  viewed  by  the  clergy  with  dis- 
trust, and  the  first  rift  in  the  lute  came  (1827)  in  the  form  of 
an  insurrection  headed  by  two  Franciscan  friars,  who  aimed 
to  restore  the  prestige  lost  by  Spain  and  the  Mother  Church. 
The  incident  caused  a strong  anti-Spanish  feeling,  and  a decree 
was  secured  (1828)  by  the  Federalists  for  the  expulsion  of  all 
Spaniards  from  Mexico. 

A great  warring  ensued  between  the  Centralists  or  Con- 
servatives (the  Church  party)  and  the  Federalists  or  Liberals 
(Republican  party),  and  albeit  the  Spaniards  were  permitted 
to  remain  in  the  country,  peace  was  henceforth  but  illusory, 
and  was  maintained  by  force  of  arms. 

Prominent  among  the  turbulent  spirits  of  this  era  was 
General  Antonio  Lopez  de  Santa  Anna,  a shrewd  but  unprin- 
cipled Creole;  accomplished,  courageous,  and  quick  to  espouse 
any  cause  that  promised  personal  advancement.  He  attained 
to  the  presidency  in  1832  — after  a series  of  “mimic  revolu- 
tions” which  extended  over  four  or  five  years  — and  until  his 
final  overthrow  the  Republic  was  in  a turmoil  which  made 
material  progress  impossible. 

Combating  retrogression  and  striving  to  advance  their 
country,  such  men  as  Vicente  Guerrero , General  Manuel  Gomez 
Pedroza , General  Bravo , and  Valentin  Gomez  Farias  (at  one 
time  Vice-President)  were  prominent  among  the  honorable, 
intelligent,  and  democratic  spirits  of  the  epoch.  Gomez  Farias 
aimed  to  secure  the  absolute  liberty  of  the  press ; the  abolish- 
ment of  special  class  privileges  whereby  the  clergy  and  the 
army  gained  great  advantages  over  the  masses;  the  separa- 
tion of  Church  and  State,  including  the  suppression  of  monas- 


ccx 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


tic  institutions  (the  great  idea  made  effective  by  the  Leyes  de 
Reforma  of  President  Juarez  nearly  three  decades  later) ; 
the  abolition  of  the  right  of  ecclesiastics  to  interfere  in  secular 
affairs ; the  restoration  and  maintenance  of  the  national  credit 
by  a readjustment  of  the  public  debt;  and  a host  of  measures 
which  would  have  worked  for  the  country’s  good. 

He  succeeded  in  establishing  a decree  abolishing  the  system 
of  tithes  levied  as  a tax  for  the  support  of  ecclesiastical  insti- 
tutions; and  another  enjoining  the  civil  courts  from  maintain- 
ing the  binding  force  of  monastic  vows,  leaving  members  of 
religious  organizations  free  to  abandon  their  convents  if  they 
chose  to  do  so.  In  many  wise  acts  he  began  the  system  of 
government  reforms  which  it  took  the  remainder  of  the  nine- 
teenth century  to  see  accomplished. 

Santa  Anna,  who  meanwhile  had  been  in  retirement  on  his 
hacienda  at  Mango  de  Clava,  secured  again  the  reins  of  gov- 
ernment (1834),  annulled  the  liberal  decrees  of  Gomez  Farias , 
deposed  that  able  and  honorable  man  from  the  Vice-Presi- 
dency, and  compelled  him  to  leave  the  country.  The  lovers  of 
liberal  institutions  and  good  government  looked  on  with  dis- 
may, but  without  power  to  interfere.  Mexico’s  universal  repu- 
tation for  unstable  government  was  now  assured.  Its  people 
were  regarded  as  restless  and  revolutionary,  and  in  some  quar- 
ters as  being  savage  and  uncivilized.  The  elevation  of  Santa 
Anna  to  the  unlimited  power  of  Dictator  was  destined  to  con- 
firm this  evil  reputation. 

In  May,  1835,  the  Plan  de  Toluca  was  promulgated,  whereby 
the  Federal  System  was  declared  changed  into  a Central- 
ized Government,  termed  by  decree  the  Central  Republic. 
A new  Constitution  was  adopted  by  Congress,  known  as  Las 
Siete  Leyes  — the  seven  laws.  It  confirmed  the  Centralized 
System,  with  but  one  House  of  Legislature  for  the  entire 
country.  The  States  were  changed  into  Departments,  under 
the  control  of  Military  Commandants,  who  were  responsible  to 
the  chief  authority  of  the  nation.  The  Republic  now  became 
a military  oligarchy,  and  until  1S47  the  supreme  power  was 
vested  in  whoever  might  be,  at  the  time,  the  most  successful 
military  leader.  Conditions  in  Mexico  were  almost  anarchical ; 
life  was  unsafe,  property  was  not  respected,  and  the  reputation 
of  the  country  abroad  was  of  the  worst. 

k.  The  War  with  the  United  States.1  “In  1S20,  Moses 
Austin,  a resident  of  Missouri,  U.  S.  A.,  obtained  the  privilege 
of  settling  in  Texas  under  the  plea  of  being  a Roman  Catholic 
persecuted  by  Protestants.  A certain  element  in  the  U.  S.  A. 
Delie ved  that  Texas  belonged  more  to  their  Government  than 
to  that  of  Mexico,  and  that  President  Monroe,  in  voluntarily 
surrendering  it  to  Spain  (at  the  time  of  the  cession  of  Florida), 

1 Consult  History  of  the  American  Civil  War , by  John  W.  Draper, 
M.D.,  LL.D.  (New  York,  1868.) 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


CCXl 


acted  unwisely.  Moses  Austin  died  prematurely,  hut  his  son, 
Stephen  F.  Austin,  carried  out  his  intentions,  and  the  Ameri- 
cans obtained  a foothold  in  the  country.  In  1821,  Mexico 
granted  certain  charters  to  colonists,  which  from  time  to  time 
were  renewed  by  the  successive  governments.  In  1827  and 
1829,  ineffectual  attempts  were  made  by  the  American  Govern- 
ment to  purchase  Texas  from  Mexico.  It  was  obvious  that  the 
possession  of  it  was  absolutely  necessary  to  the  South,  in  order 
that  her  system  might  have  freedom  of  expansion  westwardly, 
and  an  equipoise  be  maintained  with  the  North,  in  Congress. 
Adventurers  were  often  encouraged  by  the  prevailing  public 
sentiment  to  emigrate  to  it,  with  the  intention  of  detaching  it 
forcibly  from  Mexico.  The  Anglo-Saxon  traditions  of  these 
settlers  were  so  at  variance  with  Spanish  institutions,  that 
the  fickle  and  dictatorial  government  of  Santa  Anna  soon 
goaded  them  into  rebellion.  Many  arbitrary  acts  on  the  part 
of  the  Mexican  Government  aided  in  the  precipitation  of  this 
revolt,  which,  on  account  of  the  many  internal  dissensions, 
it  was  little  able  to  counteract. 

“When  the  Federal  Mexican  Government  abrogated  the 
State  Constitution,  in  1835,  thus  despoiling  the  Texans  of  the 
rights  granted  them  by  the  Constitution  of  1824,  it  precipi- 
tated a crisis.  General  Sam  Houston,  a Virginian  by  birth, 
led  the  Texans  in  their  fight  for  independence.  Santa  Anna, 
whose  * uninterrupted  military  successes  had  emboldened  him 
to  adopt  the  self-assumed  title  of  the  Napoleon  of  the  West/ 
set  out,  in  Feb.,  1836,  at  the  head  of  an  army  of  8,000  of  the 
best  troops  of  Mexico,  to  suppress  the  rebellion.  The  Texans 
were  defeated  at  the  Alamo  and  Goliad,  and  those  of  them 
who  were  taken  prisoners  of  war  were  atrociously  murdered 
in  cold  blood.  The  whole  garrison  of  the  Alamo  was  put  to  the 
sword.  The  Texans  had  hitherto  belittled  the  valor  of  their 
antagonists,  but  the  barbaric  despotism  of  Santa  Anna  goaded 
them  to  fury  and  made  peace  impossible.  On  the  23d  of 
April,  783  men,  under  General  Houston,  met  the  Dictator  at 
the  San  Jacinto  River,  and  after  a battle  which  lasted  only 
20  minutes,  they  captured  the  whole  Mexican  army,  including 
Santa  Anna.  The  character  of  this  conflict  may  be  understood 
from  the  statement  that  the  Mexicans  killed  were  630,  the 
wounded  208.  Nothing  but  the  firmness  of  the  American  com- 
mander saved  Santa  Anna  from  immediate  execution.  The 
Mexican  President,  thus  constrained  in  his  extremity,  was 
obliged  to  acknowledge  the  independence  of  Texas.  Hereupon 
he  was  liberated,  and  allowed  to  return  to  his  country  by  way 
of  the  United  States.  This,  he  seemed  in  no  hurry  to  do,  and 
he  did  not  return  to  Mexico  City  until  nearly  a year  after  his 
capture  by  the  Texans.  He  then  addressed  a letter  to  the  Mexi- 
can Secretary  of  War,  disavowing  all  treaties  and  stipulations 
made  with  the  Texans  under  duress.  Meanwhile  the  new 


CCX11 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


Republic  of  Texas  was  established  in  October,  1836,  with  a 
Constitution  modelled  on  that  of  the  United  States,  and  with 
General  Houston  as  its  first  President.  The  United  States 
forthwith  acknowledged  its  independence,  as  did  France, 
England,  and  Belgium.  The  new  Republic  maintained  its  sep- 
arate existence  until  1844.  Repeated  efforts  were  made  to 
have  it  annexed  to  the  U.  S.  A.,  and  it  soon  became  a political 
touchstone,  an  important  point  in  American  civil  policy. 

‘‘President  Tyler,  on  the  last  day  of  his  term  of  office,  con- 
cluded a treaty  with  Texan  representatives,  by  which  Texas 
became  a State  of  the  Union.  This  treaty  was  ratified  by 
the  American  Congress  in  March,  1845.  It  was  characterized 
bv  General  Juan  N.  Almonte  (who  was  captured  at  the  San 
Jacinto  River  along  with  Santa  Anna,  and  who  was  at  this 
later  period  Mexican  Minister  at  Washington)  as  an  act  of 
aggression,  ‘the  most  unjust  which  can  be  found  in  the  annals 
of  modern  history.’  This  fiery  general  (who  owed  his  life  to 
the  clemency  of  the  then  President  of  the  annexed  district) 
succeeded  in  arousing,  feelings  of  great  bitterness  in  Mexico. 
Diplomatic  relations  between  Texas  and  Mexico  were  sus- 
pended, General  Almonte  demanded  his  passport  and  returned 
to  Mexico,  and  General  Taylor,  the  United  States  commander 
in  the  Southwest,  received  orders  to  advance  to  the  Rio 
Grande.  The  Mexican  President  Herrera  issued  a proclama- 
tion declaring  the  annexation  a breach  of  international  faith, 
and  called  upon  the  citizens  of  Mexico  to  rally  to  the  defence 
of  the  territorial  integrity  of  the  country. 

“While  General  Taylor  was  approaching  the  Rio  Grande, 
troops  were  sent  north  to  enforce  the  claims  of  Mexico  to  the 
territory  in  dispute. 

“General  Taylor  reached  the  Rio  Grande  at  Matamoros 
March  26,  1846,  and  in  May  the  battles  of  Palo  Alto  (May  8) 
and  Resaca  de  la  Palma  (May  9)  were  fought,  resulting  in 
victories  for  the  Americans.” 

On  May  13,  the  American  Congress  appropriated  810,000,- 
000  for  the  prosecution  of  the  war,  and  50,000  volunteers 
were  ordered  to  be  raised.  General  Stephen  W.  Kearney  was 
sent  to  occupy  the  then  Mexican  province  of  California, 
Colonel  Doniphan  was  ordered  to  proceed  southward  toward 
Chihuahua,  and  General  Scott  to  besiege  Yera  Cruz  and 
march  to  the  capital  therefrom.  Santa  Anna,  who  had  been 
in  Cuba,  in  exile,  returned  to  Mexico  and  took  command  of 
the  Mexican  army.  This  army  was  poorly  equipped,  and 
though  the  men  fought  with  the  coolness  and  bravery  charac- 
teristic of  the  Mexican  soldier,  they  were  defeated  on  every 
hand. 

The  battle  of  Sacramento  w7as  fought  Feb.  28,  1847,  and  on 
March  2,  Doniphan’s  command  occupied  Chihuahua.  Mean- 
while a revolt  had  been  excited  in  California  against  Mexican 


HISTORY  AND  RACES  ccxiii 

rule,  and  formal  possession  of  the  country  was  taken  by  Com- 
modore Stockton.  On  March  9,  1847,  12,000  men,  under 
General  Scott,  were  landed  in  a single  evening  at  Vera  Cruz, 
and  after  a five  days’  bombardment  from  sea  and  land  the 
city  surrendered,  5,000  prisoners  and  500  pieces  of  cannon 
being  taken.  Scott  now  commenced  his  march  to  Mex.  City 
along  the  National  Road.  Approaching  the  heights  of  Cerro 
Gordo,  he  found  they  were  occupied  by  Santa  Anna  with 

15.000  men.  In  the  attack  that  ensued  the  position  wat 
forced,  3,000  prisoners  and  43  guns  being  captured.  The  Cas- 
tillo de  Perote  was  soon  taken,  and  on  May  15,  Worth’s  Divi- 
sion, numbering  4,000  men,  camped  in  the  Plaza  of  Puebla. 
Scott’s  army,  now  reduced  to  4,290  men,  was  obliged  to  re- 
main in  Puebla  until  August  7,  awaiting  reinforcements. 
These  came,  and  the  invading  army,  now  amounting  to 

11.000  men,  marched  through  the  Pass  of  Rio  Frio  and  on 
toward  the  capital. 

On  August  20,  the  Mexican  outposts  were  taken,  San  An- 
tonio was  captured,  the  fortified  post  of  Churubusco  was 
assaulted  and  gained,  and  the  road  leading  to  Mexico  City 
was  opened.  In  these  operations  the  American  loss  in  killed, 
wounded,  and  missing  was  1,053.  The  Mexican  loss  was  four 
times  as  great,  and  37  guns  were  taken. 

Delayed  by  an  armistice  and  by  abortive  negotiations  for 
peace,  it  was  not  until  Sept.  7 that  Scott  renewed  active  opera- 
tions for  the  possession  of  Chapultepec.  Two  formidable  out- 
works, Molino  del  Rey  and  Casa  Mata,  were  carried,  though 
with  severe  loss,  Chapultepec  (comp.  p.  381)  was  stormed  and 
captured,  and  on  Sept.  14,  1847,  the  flag  of  the  United  States 
was  hoisted  on  the  National  Palace  of  Mexico.  Scott  made 
a triumphant  entry  into  Mexico  City  at  the  head  of  less  than 

6.000  troops. 

Meanwhile  the  battles  of  Buena  Vista  had  been  fought, 
Monterey  was  stormed  and  taken,  and  the  Northern  army  of 
Mexico  ruined.  The  capture  of  the  City  of  Mexico  was  a de- 
cisive blow,  and  on  Feb.  2,  1848,  the  Peace  Treaty  of  Guada- 
lupe-Hidalgo  was  made. 

In  this  treaty  New  Mexico  and  Upper  California,  comprising 
522,955  square  miles  of  territory,  were  ceded  to  the  United 
States.  The  lower  Rio  Grande,  from  its  mouth  to  El  Paso, 
was  taken  as  the  boundary  of  Texas.  The  United  States  agreed 
to  pay  fifteen  millions  of  dollars  in  five  annual  instalments. 
The  claims  of  American  citizens  against  Mexico,  not  exceed- 
ing three  and  a quarter  millions  of  dollars,  were  also  assumed. 
For  a treaty  dictated  by  a conquering  army,  in  the  capital 
of  the  nation  treated  with,  this  instrument  stands  unparalleled 
in  history.1 

1 The  cost  in  money  to  the  United  States  was  $166,500,000;  25,000 
men  were  killed  or  died. 


CCX1V 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


l.  Withdrawal  of  the  American  Army.  Internecine  Strife. 

Coincident  with  the  retirement  of  the  American  army  from 
Mexico,  President  Herrera  removed  his  seat  of  government 
from  Queretaro  to  the  capital,  and  the  sadly  demoralized 
country  set  about  perfecting  the  organization  for  future 
government  and  prosperity.  For  a year  or  more  the  wise, 
economical,  tolerant,  and  progressive  Herrera  was  permitted 
to  bind  up  the  wounds  caused  by  the  war  and  to  start  the 
country  once  more  on  its  way  to  peace  and  happiness.  But 
during  this  period  the  disturbing  elements  in  the  social  econ- 
omy of  Mexico  were  only  quiescent,  in  order  that  they  might 
regain  their  wonted  strength. 

General  Mariano  Arista  was  constitutionally  elected  Presi- 
dent in  1850,  and  was  installed  in  office  in  Jan.,  1851.  It  was 
the  first  instance  in  the  history  of  the  Republic  that  a con- 
stitutionally-elected President  had  been  allowed  to  take  his 
seat.  He  began  by  reforming  the  army,  and  the  clergy  at  once 
took  alarm  at  his  liberalism.  In  July,  1852,  a revolution, 
fomented  by  the  Conservatives,  broke  out  in  Guadalajara, 
spread  to  Chihuahua,  and  even  as  far  south  as  Oaxaca.  It 
took  the  name  of  the  Plan  del  Hospicio . Arista,  averse  to 
involving  his  country  in  another  civil  war,  and  disheartened 
at  the  course  affairs  were  taking,  resigned  the  presidency,  left 
the  country,  and  died  a year  later,  in  poverty  and  obscurity, 
at  Lisbon.  Santa  Anna,  who  had  been  temporarily  squelched 
by  the  American  invasion,  again  came  into  prominence,  and 
on  April  15,  1853,  took  the  oath  as  President.  An  era  of  the 
most  despotic  absolutism  ensued.  The  ecclesiastical  party 
was  once  more  uppermost,  and  the  Jesuits  were  reestablished 
by  a decree,  dated  May  1,  1853.  The  Dictator  provided  him- 
self with  ample  funds,  by  the  sale  to  the  United  States,  for 
ten  millions  of  dollars,  of  a tract  of  land  (border  land  amount- 
ing to  45,535  square  miles),  known  as  the  Gadsden  Purchase. 
He  reestablished  the  Order  of  Guadalupe,  originally  instituted 
by  the  Emperor  Iturbide,  made  himself  the  Grand  Master 
thereof,  and  demanded  that  he  be  addressed  as  “Serene  High- 
ness.” On  the  16th  of  Dec.,  1853,  he  issued  a decree  declaring 
himself  “Perpetual  Dictator.”  A government  was  thereby 
established  more  absolute  than  any  Mexico  had  ever  known. 
The  press  was  muzzled,  high  Liberals  were  imprisoned,  and 
the  “court”  of  the  Dictator  was  filled  with  the  most  vicious 
members  of  society.  Santa  Anna’s  personal  vanity  carried 
him  to  the  extent  of  madness,  and  hastened  his  downfall. 

A revolution,  long  brewing,  broke  out  in  Acapulco,  and  was 
called  the  Plan  de  Ayutla.  It  called  for  a Congress  to  form 
a new  Constitution,  by  which  a Federal  Republican  system 
would  take  the  place  of  the  Dictatorship  established  by  Santa 
Anna.  The  leader  of  the  plan  was  General  Juan  Alvarez,  a 
revolutionary  hero.  It  soon  attracted  the  attention  of  Ignacio 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


ccxv 


Comonfort,  who  promptly  organized  an  army  sufficient  in 
numbers  to  assume  the  aggressive  against  the  Dictator  at  the 
capital.  Unable  to  stem  the  tide  of  popular  discontent,  Santa 
Anna  secretly  left  the  city  on  the  9th  of  Aug.,  1855,  and  went 
into  voluntary  exile.  Between  the  flight  of  Santa  Anna  and 
the  election  of  Comonfort  as  President,  Dec.  12,  there  were  two 
Presidents  and  an  incipient  revolution  at  the  capital.  The 
latter  of  these  Presidents,  Juan  Alvarez,  arrived  in  the  capital, 
with  his  body-guard  of  Indians,  in  Nov.,  and  organized  his 
government  with  Comonfort  as  his  Minister  of  War,  and  Benito 
Juarez  (comp.  p.  338)  as  Minister  of  Justice  and  Ecclesiastical 
Relations.  This  government  was  destined  to  be  of  transcen- 
dental importance  to  the  entire  future  life  of  the  Republic. 
Benito  Juarez  had  long  studied  the  welfare  of  his  country; 
with  prophetic  insight  he  had  located  the  cancerous  growth 
that  for  nearly  four  centuries  had  sapped  the  life,  energy,  and 
wealth  of  the  nation.  Quietly,  but  with  true  Indian  dogged- 
ness, he  cut  straight  at  the  heart  of  the  evil.  One  of  the  first 
acts  of  this  new  government  of  men  rather  than  of  inflated 
puppets,  was  the  passage  (Nov.  23,  1855)  of  the  Ley  Juarez 
(not  to  be  confounded  with  the  Ley  de  Reforma),  a law  in- 
tended to  regulate  the  administration  of  justice  and  the  organ- 
ization of  the  courts  of  law.  Its  most  significant  feature  was 
the  suppression  of  special  courts  and  the  removal  of  the  juris- 
diction, in  civil  cases,  from  military  and  ecclesiastical  powers. 
“ One  of  the  inheritances  Mexico  had  received  from  the  period 
of  Spanish  rule  was  the  exclusive  jurisdiction  claimed  by 
ecclesiastical  and  military  courts  in  all  cases,  civil  and  criminal , 
in  which  clerics  or  soldiers  were  involved.  The  evils  of  such 
a system  are  easily  seen  when  it  is  considered  that  half  the 
crimes  committed  in  Mexico  were  by  men  amenable  only  to 
military  courts,  and  that  these  courts  were  exceedingly  lax 
in  the  administration  of  justice.  More  than  a quarter  of  the 
landed  property  in  the  country  belonged  to  clerics ; and  even 
the  women  who  kept  house  for  them,  and  their  servants, 
evaded  the  payment  of  just  debts  because  the  tradesmen 
could  not  enforce  their  claims  in  the  civil  courts. ” 

The  ecclesiastics  saw  at  once  that  the  Ley  Juarez  meant 
an  attack  on  the  sacred  rights  of  the  Church,  and  they  opposed 
it  vigorously.  This  brought  into  prominence  the  Rev.  Antonio 
Pelagio  de  Labastida  y Davalos,  Bishop  of  Michoacan,  who  had 
been  but  recently  advanced  to  the  Episcopate.  He  denounced 
as  heretical  the  liberal  doctrines  promulgated,  and  threw  all 
his  influence  against  the  Government.  Despite  the  concen- 
trated opposition  of  the  Church,  Comonfort  vigorously  repressed 
both  the  army  and  the  Church;  enforcing  his  decrees  with  the 
portion  of  the  army  that  remained  loyal  to  his  Government. 
His  next  decisive  step  in  the  direction  of  reform  was  the 
famous  Ley  Lerdo , the  production  of  Juarez  and  Ocampo, 


CCXV1 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


though  revised  and  introduced  in  Congress  by  Miguel  Lerdo 
de  Tejada  and  passed  on  June  25,  1856.  This  law,  known 
as  El  Decreto  de  (the  decree  of)  Desamortizacion  (or  Mortmain 
Statute),  circumscribed  the  authority  of  the  Church,  and  or- 
dered the  sale,  at  its  assessed  value,  of  all  landed  estate  held 
by  it.  The  Church  was  to  receive  the  money  proceeds  of  such 
sale,  while  the  lands,  passing  into  private  hands,  and  freed 
of  mortmain,  would  become  part  of  the  mobile  and  available 
wealth  of  the  country  at  large.  Up  to  the  end  of  the  year 
1S56,  the  total  value  of  property  transferred  under  this  decree, 
officially  termed  Ley  de  Desamortizacion  Civil  y Eclesiastica, 
was  over  twenty  millions  of  pesos. 

The  Clericals  made  strenuous  efforts  to  defeat  this  law. 
The  Bishop  of  Puebla  protested  against  the  intervention  of  the 
Government  in  matters  belonging  to  the  Church,  and  preached 
sermons  of  a seditious  character  thereupon.  The  Archbishop 
of  Mexico  desired  to  submit  the  question  to  the  Pope  at  Rome 
— a proposition  which  was  at  once  indignantly  refused  by 
the  Government  of  Mexico.  A reactionary  movement  was 
organized  in  Puebla  and  15,000  troops  were  mobilized  by  the 
Clericals. 

Comonfort  not  only  acted  with  great  promptness  and  decision 
in  suppressing  the  revolution,  but  he  issued  a decree  punish- 
ing the  reactionary  officers  and  causing  the  sequestration  of 
enough  of  the  Church  property  in  the  Diocese  of  Puebla  to 
pay  the  expenses  of  the  war,  and  to  indemnify  the  Government 
for  all  damages  sustained  thereby.  The  Clericals  throughout 
the  land  were  stunned.  Henceforth  it  was  war  to  the  knife 
between  ignorance  and  superstition  and  progress  and  enlight- 
enment. The  war-cry  of  the  Clerical  Reactionaries  was  Re- 
ligion y Fueros  (Religion  and  Church  Rights) . A conspiracy, 
fomented  by  the  monks  in  the  convent  of  San  Francisco  in 
Mexico  City,  was  discovered  Sept.  16,  1856,  and  the  next  day 
Comonfort  decreed  the  closure  of  the  convent,  and  through 
the  convent  garden  he  caused  to  be  cut  a wide  street  which  was 
named  “ Independencia”  (comp.  p.  322).  Another  big  section 
of  the  vast  property  of  the  San  Franciscans  was  opened  up, 
and  was  converted  into  what  is  now  the  Calle  de  Gante  (p.  320). 
“ The  clergy  to  some  extent  defeated  the  purposes  of  the  Ley 
Lerdo  by  denouncing  all  who  would  purchase  the  lands  of 
the  Church  under  the  law,  and  declaring  that  the  1 Curse  of 
God ’ would  rest  upon  them  because  of  their  unholy  traffic  in 
holy  things.  By  these  threats  the  public  was  restrained  from 
purchasing  at  the  Government  sales,  and  few  bidders  were 
found  with  courage  to  risk  the  'Curse/  Those  who  bought 
in  the  property  at  low  figures  made  fortunes  at  slight  outlay, 
albeit  they  gained  the  bitter  enmity  of  the  Church.  All  this 
served  to  make  the  task  of  the  Government  more  difficult.’* 
(Noll,  Empire  to  Republic.) 


HISTORY  AND  RACES  ccxvii 

A new  Constitution,  framed  by  Congress  and  subscribed 
to  by  Comonfort,  was  adopted  Feb.  5,  much  to  the  chagrin 
of  the  Church  Party.  The  Bishops  throughout  the  country 
denounced  it,  and  certain  high  officials  in  Mexico  City  were 
excommunicated.  This  Constitution  (substantially  that  of 
Mexico  to-day)  was  a direct  affront  to  the  Church.  No  sooner 
was  it  published  than  great  excitement  prevailed  in  all  parts 
of  the  country,  and  wherever  the  clergy  were  dominant, 
the  people  were  incited  to  rebellion.  An  allocution  was  re- 
ceived from  Pope  Pius  IX,  declaring  the  Government  of 
Mexico  apocrypha , and  putting  it  under  the  anathema  of  the 
Church.  The  hitherto  stanch  Comonfort  wavered  beneath 
the  powerful  influence  brought  to  bear  upon  him,  and  ten 
days  after  he  had  sworn  to  support  the  Constitution  he  gave 
way  to  the  Clerical  Party,  set  aside  the  Constitution,  and 
tried  to  resume  government  under  the  “Bases  of  Political 
Organization”  of  1843.  To  further  placate  the  Church  Party 
he  cast  Benito  Juarez  (Minister  of  Domestic  Relations)  into 
prison.  When  too  late  he  tried  to  correct  his  mistake.  He 
released  Juarez , restored  the  Constitution,  reorganized  the 
National  Guard,  and  took  steps  to  suppress  the  insurrection 
in  the  capital.  Failing  to  undo  what  he  had  done,  he  fore- 
saw his  own  downfall  and  left  the  country  Feb.  5,  1858. 
Immediately  upon  the  flight  of  Comonfort  the  Reactionary 
Party  proclaimed  Felix  Zuloaga  President.  The  Liberals, 
assembled  in  Queretaro,  organized  under  the  Constitution  of 
1857,  recognized  Benito  Juarez  as  Constitutional  President, 
and  had  him  installed  on  the  10th  of  Jan.,  1858,  several  days 
before  the  election  of  Zuloaga.  Juarez  at  once  departed  for 
Guadalajara,  where  he  organized  his  government.  During 
the  troublous  times  that  followed  in  Mexico  City,  Juarez 
went  to  the  Pacific  Coast,  thence  to  the  United  States,  and 
returned  to  Vera  Cruz.  Here  he  maintained  his  government 
for  three  years.  The  Reactionaries,  who  succeeded  in  holding 
the  capital,  governed  the  country  by  a succession  of  what 
are  now  termed  “Anti-Presidents.” 

m . The  War  of  the  Reform  (La  Guerra  de  la  Reforma) , 
the  culmination  of  the  long  struggle  between  the  Conserva- 
tive Clerical  Party  and  the  Liberal  and  Progressive  Fac- 
tion, lasted  from  1855  to  1861,  and  was  characterized  by  the 
cruelty  which  is  usually  a feature  of  wars  wherein  religious 
fanatics  are  engaged.  It  was  precipitated  by  the  Ley  Juarez , 
and  though  bitterly  contested  and  prolonged  by  the  enorm- 
ous accumulated  wealth  of  the  clergy,  it  was  decisive,  for 
it  wrested  Mexico  forever  from  the  crippling  grip  of  the 
friars,  and  launched  it  on  its  present  career  of  usefulness 
and  enlightenment.  The  motto  of  the  reactionary  opposi- 
tion was  religion  y fueros , the  clergy  themselves  promoting 
revolution  with  the  aid  of  the  discontented  military.  The 


ccxviii  HISTORY  AND  RACES 

reactionists  plunged  into  the  fight  with  the  zeal  of  those  who 
realize  that  their  all  is  at  stake,  and  civil  war  soon  flamed 
in  many  parts  of  the  Republic.  General  Miguel  Mir  am  on, 
one  of  the  anti-Presidents,  led  the  reaccionarios,  and  was 
for  a time  successful.  Benito  Juarez  and  his  adherents,  the 
Juaristas , fought  their  opponents  ail  over  the  country, 
and  finding  Yera  Cruz  the  best  point  from  which  to  con- 
duct his  campaign,  Juarez  established  his  government  there 
(in  1858),  and  based  his  claims  on  the  Constitution  of  1857. 
Engagements  were  hotly  contested  at  Queretaro,  San  Luis 
Potosf,  Las  Cuevitas,  Pachuca,  Perote,  and  Ahualulco.  Prior 
to  these,  the  clergy  at  Puebla  revolted,  under  the  leadership  ! 
of  Bishop  Haro,  and  that  town  was  the  scene  of  battles  and 
sieges.  Juarez  narrowly  escaped  execution  at  Guadalajara  , 
in  1857,  and  by  the  capture  of  Zacatecas,  General  Leandro 
Marquez  attained  eminence  as  a reactionary  leader,  and  began 
a career  of  cruelty  scarcely  paralleled  in  Mexican  history. 

Encouraged  by  his  successes,  Miramon  attempted  (Feb., 
1859)  to  capture  Vera  Cruz,  the  seat  of  the  Constitutional 
Government:  for  a month  he  ineffectually  besieged  the  port, 
and  was  then  forced  to  hurry  to  the  capital,  which  was 
threatened  by  the  Juaristas.  A furious  battle  was  fought 
at  Tacubaya,  and  General  Marquez , not  content  with  victory, 
executed  a number  of  prisoners,  among  them  six  physicians 
who  had  gone  from  the  capital  to  care  for  the  wounded 
Juaristas.  This  exploit  gained  him  the  title  of  El  Tigre 
(tiger)  de  Tacubaya , and  for  the  town,  the  title  of  Tacubaya  de 
los  Martires. 

Early  in  1860,  Miramon  returned  to  his  design  of  captur- 
ing Vera  Cruz,  and  in  March  — after  having  borrowed  j 
$300,000  from  the  clergy  at  Mexico  City  — he  appeared  j1 
before  that  port.  In  preparing  to  besiege  the  city  he  sent  to  f 
Havana  and  purchased  two  steam  vessels  and  munitions  of  li 
war,  to  be  brought  to  V.  C.  to  cooperate  with  his  land  j 
forces.  The  approach  of  these  two  vessels  (the  General  1 
Miramon  and  the  Marques  de  la  Habana)  was  disputed  by  | 
the  squadrons  of  other  nations,  then  in  the  port  of  V.  C.,  j 
and  as  they  were  unable  to  show  ship’s  papers,  they  were 
regarded  as  semi-piratical.  Juarez  requested  the  United 
States  squadron  to  examine  the  papers  of  the  two  vessels, 
and  in  the  attempt  to  do  so  the  General  Miramon  made  some 
resistance  and  a U.  S.  frigate  was  fired  upon.  The  commander 
at  once  seized  the  ships  and  took  them  to  New  Orleans 
for  further  investigation.  The  delay  gained  by  their  deten- 
tion was  valuable  to  the  Juaristas , resulting  in  Miramon* s 
failure  in  his  attack  on  V.  C.  Later  the  siege  was  renewed 
and  the  town  was  bombarded  from  the  15th  to  the  20th  of 
March.  March  21,  the  siege  was  raised,  and  the  disgusted 
reactionists  returned  to  the  capital. 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


CCX1X 


On  July  12,  when  the  prospects  of  victory  seemed  the  most 
doubtful,  Juarez  showed  his  Indian  doggedness  and  his  belief 
in  a just  cause  by  issuing  the  celebrated  Leyes  de  Reforma 
(Reform  Laws),  the  most  transcendental  decrees  issued  by 
a Mexican  up  to  that  time.  They  contributed  greatly  toward 
the  ending  of  the  war.  These  laws  deprived  the  reactionaries 
of  their  resources  and  broke  the  power  of  the  party.  They 
provided  for  religious  toleration,  for  the  general  curtailment 
of  the  power  of  the  clergy  in  the  exercise  of  their  alleged 
rights,  exclaustrated  conventual  holdings,  adjusted  the  law 
of  civil  marriage,  and  secularized  the  cemeteries.  Religious 
orders  and  religious  communities  were  dissolved,  as  being 
contrary  to  public  welfare.  The  nation  was  entitled  to  pos- 
sess all  the  properties  of  the  clergy,  both  religious  and  sec- 
ular, and  the  Church  was  denied  the  right  to  possessjanded 
properties.  Church  and  State  were  separated,  and  religious 
freedom  of  thought  was  established.  The  clergy  were  disal- 
lowed a stipend  from  the  State,  and  were  thenceforth  to 
receive  such  compensation  for  their  services  as  might  be  vol- 
untarily bestowed  by  their  parishioners.  Marriage,  by  being 
considered  a civil  contract  only,  was  freed  from  restraints 
and  expenses  previously  imposed  upon  it  by  the  clergy  — ■ 
a provision  far-reaching  in  its  power  for  good.  The  opera- 
tion of  the  law  converted  the  country  from  the  position  of  an 
immense  priest-ridden  camp  to  that  of  a free  nation.* 1 

The  Church  did  not  submit  tamely  to  this  tremendous 
edict.  It  had  ruled  the  helpless  people  for  over  three  cen- 


1 The  wealth  of  the  Church  in  Mexico,  says  an  authority,  was  astound- 
ing. A census  taken  15  years  previously  had  estimated  that  there  w~ere 
2,000  nuns,  1,700  monks,  and  3,500  secular  clergy  in  Mexico,  and  that  the 
number  of  their  conventual  estates  was  150.  The  nuns  alone  possessed 
58  estates,  or  properties,  producing  an  annual  revenue  of  $560,000;  in 
addition  to  a floating  capital  of  $4,500,000.  producing  an  annual  income 
of  $250,000.  While  the  above  number  of  clergy  was  inadequate  to  the 
spiritual  needs  of  a population  estimated  at  seven  millions,  it  was  small 
indeed  to  be  the  possessor  of  estates  worth  at  least  $90,000,000,  which,  at 
that  time,  was  said  to  be  at  least  one  third  of  all  the  wealth  in  Mexico. 
Huge  convents  occupied  a considerable  part  of  the  site  of  Mexico  City, 
Puebla,  Morelia,  Guadalajara,  Queretaro,  and  other  cities.  A portion  of 
the  income  of  the  convents  was  derived  from  endowments,  amounting  to  a 

I large  sum.  To  support  the  high  ecclesiastics,  great  amounts  were  derived 
from  tithes.  The  Archbishop  of  Mexico  had  an  income  of  $130,000  a year; 
the  Bishop  of  Puebla,  $110,000;  of  Michoacan,  $100,000;  and  of  Guada- 
lajara, $90,000.  Mexico  City  was  more  like  a great  religious  camp  than  a 
| mercantile  centre.  The  enormous  wealth  of  the  Church  made  it  a very 
prominent  factor  in  politics,  and  it  could  upset  and  establish  governments 
at  its  pleasure,  or  ferment  the  many  revolutions  which  were  constantly 
| breaking  out.  When  the  Mexicans  rose  in  their  war  for  independence,  the 
royal  authorities  took  a portion  of  the  Church’s  wealth  — which  had  been 
wrung  from  the  Mexicans  — to  defeat  them  in  their  struggle. 

Mexico  City  owes  many  of  its  fine  streets  to  the  Reform  Laws,  which 
enabled  the  Government  to  demolish  churches  and  convents  and  cut 
avenues  through  their  spacious  grounds. 

There  are  said  to  be  over  ten  thousand  churches  and  chapels  at  pre- 
sent in  Mexico  which  are  subject  to  Roman  Catholic  control. 


ecxx 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


turies,  and  it  now  stirred  up  the  national  strife  to  the  extent 
of  pitting  members  of  the  same  family  against  each  other. 
It  threw  the  religion-loving  people  into  a panic  by  threaten- 
ing to  excommunicate  all  who  professed  Liberal  ideas.  The 
priests  so  crazed  the  populace  that  the  temporary  ambition 
of  every  Mexican  seemed  to  be  to  kill  some  one.  Nearly  two 
hundred  thousand  Mexicans  were  engaged  in  the  war,  and  the 
loss  of  life  was  appalling.  The  conflict  between  the  Liberals 
and  the  Conservatives  waged  in  nearly  every  section  of  the 
country.  The  roads  swarmed  with  bandidos,  and  the  con- 
dition of  the  country  was  deplorable. 

But  in  the  quiet,  stern,  far-seeing  Indian  from  Oaxaca  the 
Church  in  New  Spain  found  its  Waterloo.  The  task  which 
confronted  Juarez  would  have  staggered  a less  determined 
man.  One  of  his  first  acts,  after  he  entered  the  capital, 
Jan.  11,  1861,  was  to  banish  the  Bishops  and  with  them  the 
Papal  Nuncio  and  the  Spanish  Envoy.  The  properties  left 
to  the  Church  were  confiscated,  and  former  clerical  estates 
were  let  out  to  farmers  on  payment  of  12%  of  their  values. 
Archbishop  La  Bastida,  ex- President  Miramon , and  other 
Conservatives  went  to  Paris,  and  from  there  still  planned 
the  undoing  of  long-suffering  Mexico.  An  act  of  doubtful 
statesmanship  on  the  part  of  the  new  Congress  aided  them 
in  their  plans.  In  July,  1861,  Congress  approved  the  decree 
issued  by  the  President  suspending,  for  two  years,  all  pay- 
ments on  account  of  foreign  debts.  Juarez  was  heart  and 
soul  for  Mexico  — the  stanch  friend  of  the  United  States, 
but  suspicious  of  Europe.  Mexico  at  this  time  owed  Great 
Britain  some  $50,000,000,  contracted  by  the  splendor-loving 
Santa  Anna  during  his  meteoric  career.  Financial  ruin  stared 
Mexico  in  the  face,  and  Juarez  meant  well  for  the  country 
when  he  suspended  interest  on  this  foreign  debt.  Two  years 
would  enable  him  to  bring  order  out  of  chaos,  and  then  a 
progressive  Mexico  could  easily  meet  its  obligations.  But 
this  suspension  gave  the  ecclesiastical  malcontents  the  open- 
ing they  desired,  and  paved  the  way  for  — 

n.  The  French  Intervention,  Maximilian  and  the  Sec- 
ond Empire.  “For  a better  understanding  of  the  causes 
which  led  up  to  the  execution  of  this  unfortunate  Prince  of 
the  House  of  Hapsburg,  it  is  well  to  recall  that  after  the 
peace  of  Villafranca,  the  Emperor  Napoleon  III  was  sin- 
cerely desirous  to  heal  the  political  wounds  which  had  been 
made  by  his  military  operations  in  Italy,  and  to  find  some 
compensation  for  the  injuries  he  had  inflicted  on  the  Em- 
peror of  Austria. 

“From  certain  eminent  Mexicans  who  were  residing  in  Paris, 
among  them  La  Bastida , the  ex-Archbishop  of  Mexico;  the 
ex-President  Miramon.  Gutierrez  de  Estrada , and  Almonte — the 
Emperor  iearned  that  various  Papal  intrigues  were  under  way 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


CCXXI 


and  that  attempts  had  been  made  by  leaders  of  influence  in 
the  then  seceding  Southern  States  of  America  to  come  to 
an  understanding  with  persons  of  similar  position  in  Mexico 
with  a view  to  a political  union. 

“ Among  the  advantages  expected  by  the  Southern  States 
from  such  a scheme  was  the  alluring  prospect  of  a future  bril- 
liant empire,  encircling  the  West  India  Seas,  and  eventually 
absorbing  the  West  India  Islands.  To  the  Mexicans  there 
would  be  the  advantage  of  a stable  and  progressive  govern- 
ment, with  an  emperor  at  its  head,  and  the  cessation  of  the 
internecine  strife  that  had  long  torn  the  country.  The  Mexi- 
can refugees  in  Paris  saw  in  the  success  of  this  scheme  an 
end  of  their  influence  in  their  native  country,  and  they  con- 
sidered it  better  for  them  to  induce  a French  protectorate. 
The  Emperor  saw  in  this  an  opportunity  for  carrying  out 
his  friendly  intentions  toward  the  House  of  Austria.  He  im- 
mediately determined  to  encourage  the  secession  of  the  South- 
ern Confederate  States  with  the  view  of  curtailing  the  power 
of  the  North,  to  overthrow,  by  a military  expedition,  the 
existing  Government  of  Juarez  in  Mexico,  to  establish  by 
French  arms  an  empire,  and  to  offer  its  crown  to  the  Aus- 
trian Archduke  Maximilian.1 

“ To  separate  the  Union  for  the  purpose  of  crippling  it,  but 
not  to  give  such  a preponderance  to  the  South  as  to  enable 
it  to  consummate  its  Mexican  designs,  was  the  guiding  aim 
of  the  French  Government.  That  principle  was  satisfied  by 
the  recognition  of  belligerent  rights,  and  by  avoiding  a recog- 
nition of  independence.  The  French  expedition  was  thus 
based  on  the  disruption  of  the  United  States  — a disruption 
considered  not  only  by  the  Spanish  Court  and  by  the  Em- 
peror Napoleon  as  inevitable,  but  even  by  the  British  Gov- 
ernment. 

“ The  Spanish  Minister  in  Paris,  in  November,  1858,  had 
suggested  to  the  French  Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs,  the 
advantages  that  would  accrue  from  the  establishment  of 
a strong  government  in  Mexico.  Subsequently  the  views  of 
the  English  Government  were  ascertained,  and  in  April, 
1860,  the  Spanish  Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs  stated  that 
France  and  England  were  looking  favorably  upon  the  matter. 
The  stumbling-block  in  the  way  was  the  opposition  which 
might  be  expected  from  the  United  States.  That  opposition 
was  embodied  in  a formula  under  the  designation  of  the 
Monroe  Doctrine,  which  expressed  a determination  not  to 
permit  the  interference  of  European  Powers  on  the  North 
American  Continent. 

“In  April,  1860,  the  project  having  advanced  sufficiently, 
Lord  John  Russell  informed  Isturitz,  the  Spanish  Minister, 

1 History  of  the  American  Civil  War,  by  John  William  Draper,  M.D., 
LL.D.  (N.  Y.f  1870). 


ccxxii  HISTORY  AND  RACES 

that  England  would  require  the  protection  of  the  Protestant 
worship  in  Mexico.  The  project  was  characterized  by  the 
selfishness  which  is  usually  the  underlying  principle  "of  all 
nations,  and  the  aims  of  the  three  contracting  parties  event- 
ually became  apparent.  Spain  expected  that  a Bourbon 
prince  would  be  placed  on  the  Mexican  throne,  and  that  she 
would  thereby  recover  her  ancient  prestige  and  bind  more 
securely  to  her  the  valuable  island  of  Cuba.  Perhaps  she 
might  even  recover  Mexico  itself,  and  again  bind  that  free- 
dom-loving country  in  the  chains  of  the  ignorance  and  tyr- 
anny which  were  its  lot  during  Spanish  dominion  and  mis- 
rule. England,  remembering  the  annexation  of  Texas,  saw 
that  it  was  desirable  to  limit  the  ever-threatening  progress  of 
the  Republic  westwardly;  to  prevent  the  encircling  of  the 
West  India  Seas  by  a power  which,  possibly  becoming  hostile, 
might  disturb  the  rich  islands  she  held ; nor  was  she  insensible 
to  the  importance  of  partitioning  what  seemed  to  be  the 
cotton-field  of  the  world.  France  anticipated  — but  the 
Emperor  himself,  concealing  his  real  motive  of  compensating 
Austria  for  his  Italian  victories,  has  given  us  his  ostensible 
expectations  in  a letter  to  General  Forey. 

“In  this  letter,  dated  July  3,  1S62,  Napoleon  III  says: 

‘ There  will  not  be  wanting  people  who  will  ask  you  why 
we  expend  men  and  money  to  found  a regular  government 
in  Mexico.  In  the  present  state  of  the  civilization  of  the 
world,  the  prosperity  of  America  is  not  a matter  of  indifference 
to  Europe,  for  it  is  the  country  which  feeds  our  manufac- 
tures and  gives  an  impulse  to  our  commerce.  We  have  an 
interest  in  the  Republic  of  the  United  States  being  powerful 
and  prosperous,  but  not  that  she  should  take  possession  of 
the  whole  Gulf  of  Mexico,  thence  commanding  the  Antilles 
as  well  as  South  America,  and  be  the  only  dispenser  of  the 
products  of  the  New  World.  We  now  see  by  sad  experience 
how  precarious  is  the  lot  of  a branch  of  manufactures  which 
is  compelled  to  produce  its  raw  material  in  a single  market, 
all  the  vicissitudes  of  which  it  has  to  bear.  If,  on  the  con- 
trary, Mexico  maintains  her  independence  and  the  integrity 
of  her  territory,  if  a stable  government  be  there  established 
with  the  assistance  of  France,  we  shall  have  restored  to  the 
Latin  race  on  the  other  side  of  the  Atlantic  all  its  strength 
and  prestige ; we  shall  have  guaranteed  security  to  our  West 
India  colonies  and  to  those  of  Spain;  we  shall  have  estab- 
lished a friendly  influence  in  the  centre  of  America,  and 
that  influence,  by  creating  numerous  markets  for  our  com- 
merce, will  procure  us  the  raw  materials  indispensable  for 
our  manufactures.  Mexico,  thus  regenerated,  will  always 
be  well  disposed  to  us,  not  only  out  of  gratitude,  but  because 
her  interests  will  be  in  accord  with  ours,  and  because  she 
will  find  support  in  her  friendly  relations  with  European 


HISTORY  AND  RACES  ccxxiii 

Powers.  At  present,  therefore,  our  military  honor  engaged, 
the  necessities  of  our  policy,  the  interests  of  our  industry 
and  commerce,  all  conspire  to  make  it  our  duty  to  march 
on  Mexico,  boldly  to  plant  our  flag  there,  and  to  establish 
either  a monarchy,  if  not  incompatible  with  the  national 
feeling,  or  at  least  a government  which  may  promise  some 
stability/ 

“ As  soon  as  it  was  ascertained  that  the  Southern  States 
were  sufficiently  powerful  to  resist  the  National  Government, 
and  that  a partition  of  the  Union  was  impending,  the  chief 
obstacle  in  the  way  of  the  Mexican  movement  seemed  to  be 
removed.  Throughout  the  spring  and  summer  of  1861,  the 
three  contracting  powers  kept  that  result  steadfastly  in 
mind,  and  omitted  nothing  that  might  tend  to  its  accom- 
plishment. This  was  the  true  reason  of  the  concession  of 
belligerent  rights  to  the  Southern  Confederacy  in  May. 
The  downfall  of  Juarez  was  the  next  business  in  hand. 

“ Affairs  had  so  far  progressed  that,  on  November  20,  1861, 
a convention  was  signed  in  London  between  France,  England, 
and  Spain.  In  this  it  was  agreed  that  a joint  force  should  be 
sent  by  the  three  allies  to  Mexico ; that  no  special  advantages 
should  be  sought  for  by  them  individually,  and  no  internal 
influence  on  Mexico  exerted.  A commission  was  designated 
to  distribute  the  indemnity  they  proposed  to  exact.  The 
ostensible  reason  put  forth  for  the  movement  was  the  decree 
of  the  Mexican  Government,  July  17,  1861,  suspending  pay- 
ment on  the  foreign  debt. 

“ The  allied  expedition  reached  Yera  Cruz  about  the  end 
of  the  year.  Not  without  justice  did  the  Mexican  Minister 
for  Foreign  Affairs  complain  of  their  ‘friendly  but  inde- 
finite promises,  the  real  object  of  which  nobody  unravels/ 
Although  M.  Thouvenel  was  incessantly  assuring  the  British 
Government,  even  as  late  as  May,  1862,  that  France  had  no 
intentions  of  imposing  a government  on  Mexico,  it  became 
obvious  that  there  was  no  more  sincerity  in  this  engagement 
than  there  had  been  in  imputing  the  grievances  of  the  invaders 
to  the  Mexican  decree  of  the  preceding  July.  The  ostensible 
cause  was  a mere  pretext  to  get  a military  foothold  in  the 
country.  Very  soon,  however,  it  became  impossible  for 
the  French  to  conceal  their  intentions.  England  and  Spain 
withdrew  from  the  expedition,  the  alleged  cause  on  the  part 
of  the  former  being  the  presence  of  Almonte,  and  other 
Mexican  emigrants  of  known  monarchical  opinions,  with  the 
French,  and  a resolution  not  to  join  in  military  operations  in 
the  interior  of  the  country;  on  the  part  of  the  latter,  the  true 
reason  was  that  not  a Spanish  prince,  but  Maximilian,  was 
to  be  placed  on  the  Mexican  throne  — a disappointment 
to  the  Spanish  commander,  the  Count  de  Reuss  (General 
Prim),  who  had  pictured  for  himself  a viceroy’s  coronet. 


CCXXIV 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


“ The  French  entered  the  City  of  Mexico  in  July,  1863. 
The  time  had  now  come  for  throwing  off  the  mask,  and  the 
name  of  Maximilian  was  introduced  as  a candidate  for  the 
empire.  Commissioners  were  appointed  to  go  through  Paris 
and  Rome  to  Miramar  with  a view  of  soliciting  the  consent 
of  that  Prince.  A regency  was  appointed  until  he  could  be 
heard  from.  It  consisted  of  Almonte,  Salas,  and  the  Arch- 
bishop La  Bastida.  Maximilian  had  already  covenanted 
with  the  Pope  to  restore  to  the  Mexican  Church  her  mort- 
main property,  estimated  at  two  hundred  millions  of  dollars. 

In  Mexico  there  were  but  two  parties,  the  Liberal  and  the 
Ecclesiastical.  The  latter  was  conciliated  by  that  covenant  : 
but  as  to  the  national  sentiment,  the  collection  of  suffrages 
in  behalf  of  the  new  empire  was  nothing  better  than  a mere  j 
farce. 

“ An  empire  was  established  in  Mexico.  Well  might  the  I 
leaders  of  the  Southern  Confederacy  be  thunderstruck!  Was  j 
this  the  fulfilment  of  that  promise  which  had  lured  them  into 
the  gulf  of  revolt  — the  promise  which  had  been  used  with  such  1 
fatal  effect  in  Charleston?  Well  might  it  be  expected  in 
France,  as  is  stated  by  Keratry,  that  ‘ the  Confederates  pro-  | 
posed  to  avenge  themselves  for  the  overthrow  of  the  secret  | 
hopes  which  had  been  encouraged  from  the  very  outset  of  the 
contest  by  the  cabinet  of  the  Tuileries,  which  had  accorded 
to  them  the  belligerent  character,  and  had,  after  all,  aban- 
doned them.’ 

“ Yet  no  one  in  America,  either  of  the  Northern  or  the 
Southern  States,  imputed  blame  to  the  French  people  in  these 
bloody  and  dark  transactions.  All  saw  clearly  on  whom  the 
responsibility  rested.  And  when,  in  the  course  of  events,  it 
seemed  to  become  necessary  that  the  French  army  should 
leave  Mexico,  it  was  the  general  desire  that  nothing  should  be 
done  which  might  by  any  possibility  touch  the  sensibilities  j 
of  France.  But  the  Republic  of  the  West  was  forever  alienated  i 
from  the  dynasty  of  Napoleon. 

“ Events  showed  that  the  persons  who  were  charged  with  the 
administration  of  the  Richmond  Government  had  not  ability  ! 
equal  to  their  task.  The  South  did  not  select  her  best  men.  j 
In  the  unskilful  hands  of  those  who  had  charge  of  it,  secession 
proved  to  be  a failure.  The  Confederate  resources  were  reck-  I i 
lessly  squandered,  not  skilfully  used.  Ruin  was  provoked. 

“ When  it  became  plain  that  the  American  Republic  was  j 
about  to  triumph  over  its  domestic  enemies  in  the  Civil  War,  j 1 
and  that  it  was  in  possession  of  irresistible  military  power, 
they  who  in  the  Tuileries  had  plotted  the  rise  of  Maximilian  in 
1861,  now  plotted  his  ruin.  The  betrayed  emperor  found  that  j 
in  that  palace  two  languages  were  spoken.  In  the  agony  of 
his  soul  he  exclaimed,  ‘ I am  tricked!’  In  vain  his  princess 
crossed  the  Atlantic,  and  though  denied  access,  forced  her 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


ccxxv 


way  into  the  presence  of  Napoleon  III,  in  her  frantic  grief 
upbraiding  herself  before  him  that,  in  accepting  a throne 
from  his  hand,  she  had  forgotten  that  she  was  a daughter  of 
the  race  of  Orleans  1 — in  vain  she  fell  at  the  feet  of  the  Pope 
deliriously  imploring  his  succor. 

“ The  American  Secretary  of  State,  Mr.  Seward,  adopted  a 
firm  but  dignified  course  with  the  French  Government.  With 
a courteous  audacity,  he  did  not  withhold  his  doubts  as  to 
the  sincerity  and  fidelity  of  the  Emperor;  with  inexorable 
persistence  he  demanded  categorically  that  the  French  occu- 
pation should  come  to  an  end.  A date  once  set,  he  held  the 
French  Government  to  its  word.  ‘Tell  M.  Moustier/  he  says, 
in  a despatch  to  the  American  Minister  in  Paris,  ‘that  our 
Government  is  astonished  and  distressed  at  the  announce- 
ment, now  made  for  the  first  time,  that  the  promised  with- 
drawal of  French  troops  from  Mexico,  which  ought  to  have 
taken  place  in  November  (this  month),  has  been  put  off  by 
the  Emperor.  You  will  inform  the  Emperor’s  Government 
that  the  President  desires  and  sincerely  hopes  that  the  evac- 
uation of  Mexico  will  be  accomplished  in  conformity  with 
the  existing  arrangement,  so  far  as  the  inopportune  complica- 
tion necessitating  this  despatch  will  permit.  On  this  point 
Mr.  Campbell  will  receive  instructions.  Instructions  will  also  be 
sent  to  the  military  forces  of  the  United  States,  which  are 
placed  in  a spot  of  observation,  and  are  waiting  the  special 
orders  of  the  President:  and  this  will  be  done  with  the  con- 
fidence that  the  telegraph  or  the  courier  will  bring  us  intelli- 
gence of  a satisfactory  resolution  on  the  part  of  the  Emperor 
in  reply  to  this  note.  You  will  assure  the  French  Government 
that  the  United  States,  in  wishing  to  free  Mexico,  have  no- 
thing so  much  at  heart  as  preserving  peace  and  friendship 
with  France.’ 

“ The  French  recognized  that  the  position  of  the  two  nations 
had  become  inverted.  The  United  States  now  gave  orders. 
Even  by  the  French  themselves  it  was  said,  ‘The  United 
States  tracked  French  policy  step  by  step;  never  had  the 
French  Government  been  subject  to  such  a tyrannical  dic- 
tation. Formerly  France  had  spoken  boldly,  saying,  through 
M.  Drooyn  de  Lhuy  to  Mr.  Dayton,  the  American  representa- 
tive at  Paris,  “Do  you  bring  us  peace  or  war?”  Now  Maxi- 
milian is  falling  in  obedience  to  orders  from  Washington.  He 
is  falling  a victim  to  the  weakness  of  our  Government  in  al- 
lowing its  conduct  to  be  dictated  by  American  arrogance. 
Indeed,  before  rushing  into  such  perilous  contingencies,  might 
not  the  attitude  of  the  United  States  have  been  easily  fore- 
seen? Our  statesmen  needed  no  rare  perspicuity  to  have  dis- 

1 Marie  Carlota  Amelie  (born  near  Brussels  June  7.  1840)  was  the 
daughter  of  Leopold  I,  King  of  Belgium.  She  married  Maximilian  June 

27.  1857. 


CCXXV1 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


covered  the  dark  shadow  of  the  Northern  Republic  looming 
up  on  the  horizon  over  the  Rio  Bravo  frontier,  and  only  biding 
its  time  to  make  its  appearance  on  the  scene/ 

“ Only  one  thing  was  now  thought  of  in  Paris,  and  that 
was  to  leave  as  soon  as  possible  this  land  of  destroyed  illu- 
sions and  bitter  sacrifices.  Was  there  ever  such  a catalogue 
of  disappointed  expectations  as  is  presented  in  this  Mexican 
tragedy?  The  Southern  secession  leaders  engaged  in  dreaming 
of  a tropical  empire  which  they  never  realized:  they  hoped  it 
would  bring  a recognition  of  their  independence,  and  they 
were  betrayed.  The  English  were  beguiled  into  it  as  a means 
of  checking  the  growth  of  a commercial  rival,  and  of  protect- 
ing their  West  Indian  possessions.  They  were  duped  into  the 
belief  that  there  was  no  purpose  of  interfering  with  the  Gov- 
ernment of  Mexico.  They  consented  to  the  perilous  measures 
of  admitting  the  belligerent  rights  of  the  South.  They  lent 
what  aid  they  could  to  the  partition  of  a nation  with  which 
they  were  at  peace.  They  found  that  the  secret  intention  was 
the  establishment  of  an  empire  in  the  interests  of  France,  the 
conciliation  of  Austria  for  military  reverses  in  Italy,  and  the 
curbing  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  by  the  Latin  race.  England  ex- 
pected to  destroy  a democracy,  and  has  gathered  her  reward  by 
becoming  more  democratic  herself.  The  Pope  gave  his  coun- 
tenance to  the  plot,  having  received  a promise  of  the  eleva- 
tion of  the  Mexican  Church  to  her  pristine  splendor,  and  the 
restoration  of  her  mortmain  estates;  but  the  Archbishop  La 
Bastida,  who  was  one  of  the  three  regents  representing  her 
great  influence,  was  insulted  and  removed  from  his  political 
office  by  the  French.  In  impotent  retaliation,  he  discharged 
at  his  assailants  the  rusty  ecclesiastical  blunderbuss  of  past 
days  — he  excommunicated  the  French  army.  The  Span- 
iards did  not  regain  their  former  colony;  the  brow  of  the 
Count  de  Reuss  was  never  adorned  with  a vice-regal  coro- 
net. The  noble  and  devoted  wife  of  Maximilian  was  made  a 
wanderer  in  the  sight  of  all  Europe,  her  diadem  removed,  her 
reason  dethroned. 

“ For  Maximilian  himself  there  was  not  reserved  the  pagean- 
try of  an  imperial  court  in  the  Indian  palaces  of  Montezuma, 
but  the  death-volley  of  a grim  file  of  Mexican  soldiers,  under 
the  frowning  shadow  of  the  heights  of  Queretaro.  For  the 
Emperor  of  Austria,  there  was  not  the  homage  of  a transat- 
lantic crown;  Mexico  sent  him  across  the  ocean,  a coffin  and 
a corpse.  For  France,  ever  great  and  just,  in  whose  name 
so  many  crimes  were  perpetrated,  but  who  is  responsible 
for  none  of  them,  there  was  a loss  of  that  which  in  her  eyes 
is  of  infinitely  more  value  than  the  six  hundred  millions  of 
francs  which  were  cast  into  this  Mexican  abyss.  For  the 
Emperor  — can  anything  be  more  terrible  than  the  despatch 
which  was  sent  to  America  at  the  close  of  the  great  Exposi- 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


CCXXVll 


tion?  — ‘ There  remain  now  no  sovereigns  in  Paris  except  the 
Emperor  Napoleon  III  and  the  spectre  of  Maximilian  at  his 
elbow.’  ” 

Toward  the  close  of  December  the  Spanish  squadron  cast 
anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Vera  Cruz.  Early  in  January,  1862, 
English  and  French  war-ships  arrived.  They  jointly  took 
possession  of  the  port,  and  sent  a note  to  the  Mexican  Gov- 
ernment explaining  the  ostensible  causes  and  aims  of  the 
expedition.  The  Government  invited  them  to  a conference 
having  for  its  aim  the  reaching  of  an  amicable  settlement. 
This  conference  was  held  in  Orizaba.  As  the  Mexican  Govern- 
ment was  unprepared  for  war  with  a foreign  power,  it  was 
agreed  that  the  allies  should  hold  Cordoba,  Orizaba,  and 
Tehuacan  pending  a satisfactory  adjustment.  If  an  agree- 
ment were  not  reached,  the  allies  were  to  retire  to  the  coast 
before  beginning  hostilities. 

While  negotiations  were  in  progress,  the  commissioners  of 
the  English  and  Spanish  Governments  (April  9)  announced 
their  intention  to  withdraw  and  reembark  their  troops.  This 
was  done  as  speedily  as  possible.  The  French  commissioner 
declared  it  was  the  intention  of  his  government  to  push  the 
enterprise  to  completion. 

Violating  their  agreement  to  retire  to  the  coast,  they  awaited 
reinforcements,  which  arrived  under  the  command  of  Gen- 
eral Lorencez.  At  the  head  of  six  thousand  men  he  marched 
toward  the  capital.  He  appeared  before  Puebla  May  4,  and 
on  May  5,  began  the  assault  of  the  city.  He  was  defeated 
by  General  Zaragoza  at  the  head  of  4,000  Mexican  troops. 

The  French  again  attacked  Puebla,  which  was  heroically 
defended  by  Gonzales  Ortega  with  12,000  men,  aided  by  Gen- 
eral Comonfort  with  a strong  outlying  division.  On  May  8, 
Bazaine  routed  Comonfort,  and  on  the  17th  Puebla  capitu- 
lated to  vastly  superior  forces.  The  French  continued  their 
march  to  the  capital.  President  Juarez,  after  issuing  a mani- 
festo to  the  nation,  exhorting  them  to  continue  the  struggle, 
abandoned  the  city  May  31.  He  retired  toward  the  north,  ac- 
companied by  troops  under  Generals  Don  Porjirio  Diaz  and 
Don  Juan  Jose  de  la  Garza. 

On  June  11,  Mexico  City  was  officially  occupied  by  the 
French  troops.  The  Conservative  Party  accorded  General 
Forey  an  enthusiastic  reception.  A junta  composed  of  35 
members  of  the  Conservative  Party  was  formed,  and  they  in 
turn  created  another  junta  with  the  title  of  Regencia  and 
headed  by  Don  Juan  Almonte,  one  of  the  most  active  agents 
in  the  establishment  of  the  monarchy  in  Mexico. 

On  June  10,  1863,  a junta  convoked  by  General  Forey  and 
composed  of  200  adherents  of  the  Conservative  Party  form- 
ally declared : — 

“ The  Nation  accepts  an  hereditary  monarchy  headed  by  a 


ccxxviii  HISTORY  AND  RACES 

Catholic  prince  who  will  bear  the  title  of  Emperor . It  offers 
the  crown  to  Archduke  Fernando  Maximilian  of  Austria.” 

Meanwhile  Juarez  had  established  his  temporary  govern- 
ment in  San  Luis  Potosf,  whence,  on  June  10,  it  moved  to 
Saltillo.  Later  it  moved  to  Chihuahua,  and  thence  to  Paso 
del  Norte,  now  Ciudad  Juarez. 

Maximilian  accepted  the  crown  of  the  new  empire  in  con- 
sideration of  three  million  pesos  advanced  by  Napoleon  III 
to  enable  him  to  pay  some  of  his  debts.  The  compact  was 
signed  at  the  Chateau  of  Miramar,  April  10, 1864.  From  that 
date  his  allowance  was  S125,000  a month:  that  of  Carlota 
S16,666.66,  making  a sum  total  of  81,700,000  annually  paid 
by  impoverished  Mexico  for  the  privilege  of  having  its  dis- 
tracted country  mismanaged  by  a foreign  potentate. 

The  Archduke  and  his  consort  embarked  on  the  Austrian 
war-ship  La  Novara , April  14,  1864.  Arriving  at  Civita- 
Vecchia  they  went  direct  to  Rome,  where  they  lodged  at  the 
Palacio  Marescotta.  After  a visit  from  the  King  of  Naples 
and  Cardinal  Antonelli,  they  attended  a special  mass  at  the 
Vatican,  received  the  communion  from  the  hands  of  the  Pope, 
and  sailed  for  Mexico  April  20. 

On  May  28,  La  Novara  dropped  anchor  in  the  harbor  of 
Vera  Cruz.  The  next  morning  Maximilian  and  his  suite  dis- 
embarked and  received  the  keys  of  the  city.  Gayly  decorated 
carriages  conveyed  them  up  the  mountains  to  Cordoba  and 
Orizaba,  where  they  were  received  with  flowers  and  acclama- 
tions. They  arrived  at  Puebla  June  5,  where  a great  celebra- 
tion was  held  (the  7th)  in  honor  of  Carlo  ta’s  birthday.  They 
passed  the  night  of  the  11th  at  Guadalupe,  and  made  their 
triumphal  entry  into  the  capital  on  the  morning  of  June  12. 1 

Coincident  with  the  arrival  of  Maximilian,  the  monarchical 
form  of  government  began  its  functions.  Troubles  also  arose. 
The  Archduke  was  not  lacking  in  advanced  ideas,  and  from 
the  first  he  essayed  to  win  the  good  will  of  the  Liberals, 
a difficult  task  in  view  of  their  intense  hostility  to  the  Con- 
servatives whom  the  Emperor  represented.  In  turn  he  gained 
the  ill  will  of  t he  Conservatives  by  refusing  to  annul  or  modify 
the  Leyes  de  Reforma. 

Money  was  the  shibboleth  of  his  brief  reign.  The  extra- 
vagant etiquette  of  the  Austrian  Court  was  implanted  in  the 
Aztec  capital,  and  it  became  the  theatre  of  glittering  court 

1 In  view  of  the  fact  that  one  of  the  ostensible  causes  of  the  French  in- 
tervention was  the  decree  repudiating  Mexico’s  foreign  debts  (because  of 
her  inability  to  pay  them),  it  is  interesting  to  note  the  minor  expendi- 
tures consequent  to  bringing  Maximilian  and  his  suite  to  Mexico. 

(liven  to  various  persons  to  induce  the  Emperor  to  come  . $104,902.32 
Furniture  and  improvements  in  the  Palace  at  Mexico  . . 101,011.83 

Furniture  and  art  objects  for  Chapultepec  and  Orizaba  . . 15.210.50 

Reception  at  Vera  Cruz  and  Mexico  City * 115,348.41 

Total  . . $336,473.06 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


CCXX1X 


balls,  regal  receptions,  and  splendid  social  functions.  To  meet 
the  ever-increasing  expenses  of  the  lavish  court,  loans  were 
contracted  in  Paris  and  London,  and  valuable  franchises  were 
sold  to  the  foreign  adventurers  who  flocked  to  the  seat  of  the 
new  empire. 

In  marked  contrast  to  affairs  at  the  capital,  turmoil  reigned 
in  the  interior  cities  and  towns.  In  those  garrisoned  by  a 
sufficient  number  of  French  troops,  an  illusory  peace  was 
maintained  by  force  of  arms.  A perpetual  guerrilla  warfare 
was  waged  in  many  of  the  country  districts.  At  first  the 
Mexicans  suffered  heavily  at  the  hands  of  the  French,  but 
the  revolutionists  gained  strength,  and  in  1866  disquieting 
rumors  reached  the  capital  and  disturbed  the  Emperor  in 
his  fancied  security. 

With  a woman’s  perspicacity,  the  Empress  detected  the  trend 
of  events  and  she  proposed  a trip  to  Paris  and  Rome,  with  the 
aim  of  urging  Napoleon  III  to  fulfil  the  promises  made  at 
Miramar,  and  to  invite  the  aid  of  the  Pope  to  unravel  the 
ecclesiastical  tangle  which  perplexed  the  struggling  monarchy. 

On  July  6 a special  Te  Deum  was  held  in  the  Cathedral,  and  on 
the  13th  the  Empress  embarked  at  Vera  Cruz  on  the  Empera- 
triz  Eugenia.  When  she  left  Mexico  she  turned  her  back  upon 
her  husband  and  an  imperial  diadem,  both  forever  lost  to  her. 

Napoleon  received  the  Empress  coldly.  Both  indulged  in 
violent  and  acrimonious  recrimination;  the  Emperor  refus- 
ing absolutely  to  furnish  further  resources,  whether  military 
or  pecuniary.  The  interview  served  only  to  strain  the  already 
tenuous  relations , between  Napoleon  and  Maximilian.  The 
vainglorious  French  Emperor  had  his  own  troubles.  Spurred 
and  vexed  by  the  veiled  orders  of  the  United  States  to  with- 
draw his  troops  from  American  soil,  he  sought  but  the  means 
to  comply  and  preserve  his  dignity.  The  soldiers  themselves 
were  constantly  harassed  by  the  Mexican  guerrillas,  and  they 
yearned  for  La  Belle  France  and  for  the  cessation  of  a boot- 
less struggle  on  alien  soil. 

A victim  to  the  darkest  forebodings,  the  unhappy  Empress 
repaired  to  Miramar,  where,  on  the  16th  of  Sept.,  a banquet 
celebrating  the  Independence  of  Mexico  was  given.  Unwill- 
ing to  relinquish  the  Mexican  crown  and  again  be  merely 
an  Archduchess  of  Austria,  the  ambitious  woman  started  for 
Rome  with  all  her  hopes  centred  in  the  Pope.  She  made 
her  official  visit  to  the  Vatican  on  September  27.  On  being 
received  by  the  Pontiff  she  fell  into  a nervous  paroxysm,  and 
as  if  possessed  of  an  awful  terror  she  exclaimed:  “I  have 
been  poisoned  by  order  of  Napoleon  III,  and  those  without 
have  accomplished  it.”1  Hope  had  died  out  of  her  proud 
heart  and  her  reason  went  with  it. 


1 There  are  Mexicans  who  say  the  Empress  was  secretly  poisoned  with 
Marihuana  (a  deadly  native  drug)  before  she  departed  from  Mexico 


ccxxx 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


The  sad  notice  all  but  crushed  Maximilian,  and  his  sole 
remaining  ambition  was  to  leave  Mexico  and  reach  the  side 
of  his  unfortunate  wife.  Prevailed  upon  by  the  Conservative 
Party  to  remain,  he  did  so,  and  unwittingly  sealed  his  own  fate. 

The  year  1867  opened  menacingly  for  the  empire.  The 
Liberal  forces  in  the  north  had  captured  town  after  town. 
Napoleon  had  named  early  spring  as  the  date  for  the  with- 
drawal of  his  troops,  but  the  urgency  of  Mr.  Seward  and  the 
interview  with  the  Empress  Carlota  hastened  his  plans, 
and  the  last  of  the  French  troops  reached  Mexico  City  Jan. 

15,  homeward  bound.  On  Feb.  5,  the  French  flag  was  hauled 
down  from  over  the  home  of  the  Marshal,  in  Buena  Vista 
(p.  340),  and  the  army  filed  out  of  the  city.  From  behind  the 
curtained  window  of  the  palace,  Maximilian  watched  its  de-  i 
parture  in  silence. 

Hard-pushed  by  the  Liberals,  the  generals  of  the  Imperial-  j 
ist  cause  had  united  in  Queretaro.  Accompanied  by  his 
Ministers  of  State,  aides,  doctor,  secretary,  and  two  thousand  j 
armed  men  under  General  Leonardo  Marquez,  Maximilian 
left  the  capital  Feb.  13.  A special  Te  Deum  was  sung  in  the 
Cathedral  at  Queretaro  the  day  of  his  arrival.  On  the  same  J 
day  General  Mendez  arrived  on  his  retreat  from  Morelia. 

On  March  20,  Queretaro  was  closely  besieged  by  the  Liberal 
forces. 

When  the  Emperor  left  Mexico  City,  he  believed  he  was  to  j 
lead  a campaign  against  the  enemy.  Great  was  his  surprise  1 
to  learn  that  he  had  deliberately  entered  a beleaguered  citv,  | 
now  completely  surrounded  by  Liberal  troops  under  Generals  1 
Escobedo  and  Corona.  Once  trapped,  his  position  was  peril-  1 
ous.  Numerous  but  ineffectual  attempts  were  made  to  break  I 
the  cordon.  Ammunition  grew  scarce,  rations  diminished,  and  1 
the  city  was  taken  by  the  Republican  forces  May  15.  Max-  | 
imilian,  Miramon,  and  Mejia  were  imprisoned  in  a cell  in  the  I 
existing  Capuchin  Convent.  The  court-martial  that  tried  I 
them  was  convened  in  the  Yturbide Theatre  at  10  a.  m..  June  I 
14.  The  Emperor  was  suffering  from  an  acute  attack  of  illness  1 
and  was  not  present.  On  June  15,  the  court  united  in  a sen-  I 
tence  of  death. 


When  she  made  her  piteous  appeal  for  help  to  Napoleon  III,  she  was  i; 
quite  sane,  though  sadly  wrought  up  by  intense  emotion,  but  failure  un-  | 
hinged  her  mind,  and  when  she  hurried  off  to  the  Pope,  she  was  demented.  j 
To  the  horror  of  the  Papal  Court,  she  burst  into  the  presence  of  His  Holi- 
ness wearing  a bonnet  instead  of  the  black  mantilla  rigorously  insisted  ; 
upon  in  such  an  audience:  and  to  the  still  greater  horror  of  Cardinal 
Antonelli  and  of  the  Pope  himself,  she  insisted  on  staying  overnight  at  i 
the  Vatican.  As,  however,  force  could  not  be  used  to  eject  her.  the  Pope  | 
had  to  order  two  beds  to  be  placed  in  the  library  for  the  Empress  and  one 
of  her  ladies  — an  unheard-of  desecration!  Indeed,  they  could  get  rid  of 
the  hapless  Empress  next  day  only  by  the  ruse  of  getting  two  nuns  to  j 
persuade  her  to  visit  their  convent,  where  she  became  so  violent  that  she 
had  to  be  put  into  a strait-jacket  ! 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


CCXXXl 


The  President  of  the  United  States  and  the  sovereigns  of 
Great  Britain,  France,  and  Austria  tried  to  save  his  life. 
Victor  Hugo  wrote  Juarez  a strong  and  stirring  appeal,  and 
besought  him  to  pardon  Maximilian.  The  Princess  Salm- 
Salm  rode  120  miles  across  country,  and  on  her  knees  im- 
plored Juarez  to  spare  his  life.  He  refused  to  annul  the  order. 
In  connection  with  the  Austrian,  Belgian,  and  Italian  Ministers 
and  the  French  Consul,  she  planned  a nocturnal  flight  from 
the  convent.  This  plan  failed.  Maximilian’s  counsel  went  to 
President  Juarez  at  San  Luis  Potosf  and  urged  a commuta- 
tion of  the  sentence.  But  as  Maximilian  himself  had,  in  his 
famous  decree  of  October  3,  condemned  to  death  any  Mexi- 
can found  with  arms  against  the  monarchy,  Juarez  refused 
the  plea.  He  confirmed  by  telegraph,  at  11  a.  m.,  on  June  16, 
the  death  sentence  pronounced  against  Fernando  Maximilian 
of  Hapsburg.  The  jailer  immediately  announced  the  news  to 
the  prisoners. 

Shortly  after  daylight  on  the  morning  of  June  19,  1867, 
a division  composed  of  4,000  men  marched  to  the  suburb  of 
Queretaro  and  formed  a square  at  the  foot  of  El  Cerro  de 
las  Campanas  — The  Hill  of  the  Bells.  In  their  cells  in  the 
Capuchin  Convent  three  men  dressed  for  the  ordeal. 

They  had  scarcely  finished  when  a soldier  opened  the 
heavy  door  and  said : / Yaes  hora! — the  time  has  come.  Maxi- 
milian, Miramon,  and  Mejia,  accompanied  by  a Catholic  priest, 
Father  Soria,  stepped  into  the  carriage  awaiting  them  and 
were  quickly  driven  through  a silent  multitude  to  the  place  of 
execution.  The  carriage  reached  El  Cerro  de  las  Campanas 
at  7.15.  Maximilian  descended  first  and  was  followed  by  his 
generals,  who  walked  with  firm  steps.  About  halfway  up  the 
hill  was  an  adobe  wall,  constructed  during  the  siege  as  a breast- 
work, guarding  the  more  important  fortification  upon  the 
summit  — the  last  point  to  surrender  and  where  Maximilian 
was  captured.  In  front  of  this  wall  the  prisoners  were  stationed 
and  the  firing-parties  told  off.  The  men  embraced  each  other, 
and  took  a last  look  at  the  winsome  blue  sky  of  a faultless  day. 

Maximilian  distributed  some  gold  coins  among  the  soldiers 
who  were  to  shoot  him,  and  in  a clear,  vibrant  voice  exclaimed : 
“ I die  in  a j ust  cause,  the  Independence  and  Liberty  of  Mexico. 
I forgive  all,  and  I pray  that  all  may  forgive  me.  May  my 
blood  flow  for  the  good  of  my  adopted  country.  / Viva  Mexi- 
co!” Miramon  uttered  a few  words.  Mejia  remained  silent. 
It  is  said  that  Mejia  comforted  Maximilian  in  his  last  hours 
by  assuring  him  that  Carlota  had  died  in  Europe.  Maxi- 
milian asked  as  a favor  that  he  might  be  shot  in  the  body,  so 
that  when  his  body  was  sent  to  Austria  his  mother  might  once 
more  look  upon  his  face. 

Maximilian,  Miramon,  and  Mejia  fell  dead  at  the  first 
volley.  A second  fire  was  directed  against  the  body  of  the 


ccxxxn 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


Emperor.  It  was  then  placed  in  a rude  coffin  and  taken  to  a 
room  in  the  Palacio  de  Gobierno.  The  body  was  there  in- 
spected by  President  Juarez.1 

o.  The  Restored  Republic.  When  Juarez  again  entered 
the  capital  on  July  15,  1867,  after  an  absence  of  five  years, 
his  return  signalized  the  rise  of  the  new  Republic  and  the 
culmination  of  his  own  fame.  The  Constitution  of  1857  was 
made  once  more  effective,  and  the  national  energies  were 
directed  toward  repairing  the  waste  caused  by  the  long  war. 
Railways  and  telegraphs  were  installed,  and  the  country  was 
developed  internally. 

Congress  reelected  Juarez  president  in  Oct.,  1871,  and  he 
took  the  oath  as  a constitutional  president  for  the  third  time 
on  Dec.  1.  A number  of  would-be  presidents  “ pronounced  ” j 
against  him,  but  each  attempt  to  return  to  the  old  method  j 
of  governing  the  country  by  force  was  promptly  squelched. 

The  sudden  death  of  Juarez  on  July  18,  1872,  raised  Sebas- 
tian Lerdo  de  Tejada  (then  president  of  the  Supreme  Court 
of  Justice)  to  the  presidency.  During  his  three  years’  tenure 
of  office  several  articles  were  added  to  the  Constitution; 
one  in  particular  suppressing  the  last  remaining  religious 
order  — the  Sisters  of  Charity.  The  government  under 
Tejada  was  unpopular  with  the  people,  and  a remedy  was  pro-  I 
vided  in  the  revolt  headed  by  General  Porfirio  Diaz  in  1876.  \ 
The  new  revolution,  which  soon  plunged  the  entire  country  I 
into  another  civil  war,  had  for  its  base  the  Plan  de  Tux - I 
tepee , promulgated  in  Oaxaca,  Jan.  15.  It  was  the  most  signi-  1 
ficant  of  all  the  revolutions  to  date,  since  it  gave  Mexico  I 
its  greatest  ruler.  Under  the  command  of  General  Diaz  the  \\ 
revolutionary  army  carried  out  an  energetic  and  successful  j: 
campaign.  Tejada  fled  to  the  United  States,  and  General  \\ 

1 The  body  of  the  unfortunate  Emperor  now  lies  in  the  Austrian  Im-  j 
perial  vault  in  the  Capuchin  Church  at  Vienna.  The  Prince  was  a rear-  |l 
admiral  in  the  Austrian  Navy,  and  before  his  ill-starred  expedition  to  t] 
Mexico,  where  he  was  sacrificed  to  the  perfidy  of  Napoleon  III,  he  resided  jj 
in  Trieste  in  a beautiful  chateau  called  Miramar.  In  the  Piazza  Giuseppe,  j 
in  Trieste,  stands  a fine  bronze  monument  (by  Schilling),  erected  in  1875  l] 
to  his  memory.  Miramon  and  Mejia  are  buried  in  the  Panteon  de  San  U 
Fernando  (Mexico  City).  There  are  good  paintings  of  Maximilian  and  the  j 
Empress  Carlota  in  the  National  Museum  at  Mex.  City. 

The  student  should  consult  History  of  Mexico , by  Hubert  Howe  Ban-  I 
croft  (San  Francisco,  1888),  vol.  vi.  pp.  31 8 et  seq.  — My  Diary  in  Mexico  I 
in  1 867,  including  the  Last  Days  of  the  Emperor  Maximilian,  with  Leaves  j \ 
from  the  Diary  of  the  Princess  Salm-Salm,  by  Felix  Salm-Salm,  Lon-  1 2 
don,  1868. — Life  of  M aximilian  /,  Late  Emperor  of  Mexico , with  a sketch  of  II 
the  Empress  Carlota , by  Frederic  Hall,  New  York,  1868.  — Mcjico  desde  i \ 
1808  hasta  1 867,  by  Francisco  de  P.  Arrangoiz,  Mexico,  1872  (a  good  j| 
historical  picture  of  the  Second  Empire).  — Resena  Historica  de  la  For - ( 
rracidn  y Operaciones  del  Cuerpo  de  Ejcrcito  del  Norte  durante  la  Inter-  ! 
vend  on  Francesa,  Sitio  de  Qverctaro  y Noticias  O ficiales  sobre  la  captura  ( ; 
de  Maximillano,  su  Proceso  Integro  y su  Muerte,  by  Juan  de  Dios  Arias,  I 
Mexico,  1 867.  — Guerre  du  Mexique,  1861-1867,  by  L.  Le  Saint,  Paris,  3 
1868.  — Ermnervngen  aus  Mexico,  Geschichte  der  letzten  zehn  Monate  des 
Kaiserreisch,  by  S.  Basch,  Leipsic,  1868. 


HISTORY  AND  RACES  ccxxxiii 

Diaz  entered  Mexico  City  Nov.  24,  1876,  and  was  proclaimed 
Provisional  President.  The  following  April,  Congress  form- 
ally decreed  that  he  be  Constitutional  President  for  a term 
ending  in  Nov.,  1880.  A strong  man  was  now  at  the  head  of  the 
government.  Diplomatic  relations  with  France  were  resumed ; 
railway  construction  was  pushed;  incipient  revolutions  were 
killed  in  their  cradle,  and  the  nation  was  led  gently  but  firmly 
into  the  path  of  peace  and  progress. 

In  1880,  the  term  for  which  Diaz  had  been  elected  expired, 
and  albeit  many  of  his  great  plans  for  the  regeneration  of  the 
country  were  still  in  embryo,  he  steadfastly  adhered  to  his 
purpose  of  abiding  by  the  constitutional  provision  that  ren- 
dered him  ineligible  for  a succeeding  term.  The  moral  worth 
of  the  man  had  perhaps  never  been  subjected  to  a severer  test. 

On  Sept.  25,  1880,  General  Don  Manuel  Gonzalez  was 
legally  elected  the  successor  of  the  retiring  president.  The 
high  principles  of  Diaz  were  beyond  the  grasp  of  the  new 
president,  whose  reign  was  characterized  by  riots,  and  similar 
manifestations  of  the  popular  discontent.  In  1883,  the  “ nickel 
riots  ” came  near  to  ending  the  Gonzalez  administration,  as 
did  likewise  the  proposal  of  a very  unpopular  plan  for  liqui- 
dating Mexico’s  English  debt.  The  admirable  administration 
of  Porfirio  Diaz  had  elevated  the  nation  to  a higher  moral 
plane  than  it  had  occupied  hitherto;  the  dormant  national 
conscience  had  been  awakened,  and  the  Mexicans,  for  the 
first  time  in  many  years,  had  acquired  an  interest  in  their 
reputation  at  home  and  abroad.  A new  element  had  been 
introduced  into  national  affairs.  So  deep  and  so  lasting  was 
the  impression  made  by  this  greatest  Mexican  that  the  people 
refrained  from  ousting  Gonzalez:  biding  their  time,  they 
shelved  their  grievances,  and  patiently  waited  until  events 
should  once  more  place  Diaz  at  the  head  of  the  nation. 

This  occurred  in  1884,  when  General  Diaz  was,  with  prac- 
tical unanimity,  reelected.  His  second  term  was  soon  marked 
by  financial  reforms  which  aided  to  repair  the  large  deficit 
left  by  the  Gonzalez  administration.  The  credit  of  the  nation 
was  soon  recognized  by  all  the  exchanges  of  Europe.  Im- 
mense sums  were  spent  on  public  improvements ; free  schools 
were  organized ; education  became  compulsory,  and  the 
alcabales,  or  local  state  duties  — a long-surviving  and  perni- 
cious relic  of  Spanish  colonial  days  — were  abolished.  The 
drainage  canal  — that  colossal  project  which  had  puzzled  the 
minds  of  Mexico’s  rulers  since  the  14th  century  — was  un- 
dertaken and  carried  to  successful  completion.  The  solving  of 
this  great  problem  alone  was  of  incalculable  benefit  to  the 
inhabitants  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico. 

Diaz  also  instituted  other  wholesome  reforms  : he  reduced 
the  president’s  salary  from  $30,000  to  $15,000,  and  ordered  a 
reduction  of  from  15  to  20  % in  the  salaries  of  many  govern- 


CCXXX1V 


HISTORY  AND  RACES 


ment  employees.  He  reorganized  the  army,  rid  the  country 
of  bandidos,  and  converted  the  bandit  chiefs  into  stanch  sup- 
porters of  the  Government. 

Diaz  possessed  the  wisdom  and  the  statesmanship,  the  strong 
arm  and  the  steadfast  purpose  requisite  to  weld  the  warring 
factions,  reconcile  antagonistic  reactionaries,  and  to  lift 
Mexico  from  revolutionary  chaos  and  launch  it  on  a career  of 
almost  unexampled  prosperity.  Under  his  wise  and  far- 
sighted administration  the  country  rose  from  the  position  of  a 
nondescript  Republic  not  unfrequently  a synonym  for  revolu- 
tion, to  one  of  the  most  progressive  nations  of  the  world. 

In  May,  1911,  a revolution  headed  by  Francisco  L Madero  \ 
forced  Diaz  to  resign.  From  the  time  he  left  the  capital  for 
France,  where  he  died  (in  Paris,  July  2,  1915,  aged  84),  until 
Dec.,  1920,  when  General  Alvaro  Obregon  became  the  Mexican  ! 
president,  revolution  flamed  all  over  the  country  and  ran  like 
a red  thread  through  the  texture  of  Mexico's  life.  The  plots 
and  counterplots,  the  revolutionary  successions,  and  the 
presidential  aspirations  were  much  like  those  of  an  earlier  j 
period,  or  between  1810  and  1821,  when  Mexico  finally  threw 
off  the  Spanish  yoke,  and  1880  when  the  Diaz  influence  began 
to  make  itself  felt. 

Eleven  presidents  filled  the  gap  between  Diaz  and  Obregony 
or  1910  and  1920.  Certain  of  them  paid  with  their  lives  for  | 
their  efforts  to  hold  the  country  back,  but  these  sacrifices 
did  not  recompense  Mexico  for  the  terrific  losses  suffered  dur-  j 
ing  the  intervening  years. 

It  remained  for  the  Obregdn  administration  to  bind  up  the  ; 
country's  wounds,  adjust  international  differences,  and  force  i 
the  Republic  back  to  the  high  and  valued  position  it  once  I 
occupied  in  the  world’s  esteem. 

For  the  chief  events  of  the  revolutionary  period  from  1911 
to  1920,  consult  the  Chronological  Section  at  page  ccxxxix. 

Porlirio  Diaz  was  born  in  Oaxaca  City,  Sept.  15,  1830  (on  the  anniver-  9 
sary  of  the  Mexican  Independence  proclaimed  by  Hidalgo).  His  father,  1 
Jos6  Faustino  de  la  Cruz  Diaz,  was  of  Spanish  parentage,  and  his  mother, 
whose  maiden  name  was  Petrona  Mori,  was  a Mestiza  (of  a Spanish  Astu- 
rian  father,  and  a pure-bred  Mixteca).  Both  were  poor  and  humble.  At  an  i 
early  age  Porfirio  showed  characteristics  that  attracted  the  attention  of 
Benito  Juarez,  then  Governor  of  Oaxaca  State,  and  later  President  of  Mexico. 

He  instilled  into  him  many  admirable  qualities,  and  he  noted  that  the  1 
youth  took  to  military  science  just  as  did  the  young  Napoleon.  Reserved, 
studious,  brave,  and  wise,  he  soon  became  noted  for  a fervid  patriotism,  j 
rare  executive  ability,  and  an  unalterable  will.  A captain  in  the  army  at 
32,  his  bravery  soon  obtained  for  him  the  title  of  General,  and  ere  long  he 
became  a prominent  figure  in  the  military  life  of  the  Republic.  From  his  {! 
second  election  to  the  presidency  in  1884,  his  fame  acquired  a solid  and  en- 
during form.  He  was  one  of  the  wisest  and  most  beneficent  rulers  Mexico 
has  had.  Few  men  were  more  patriotic,  few  more  self-sacrificing,  and  few 
more  beloved.  No  words  can  add  to,  or  detract  from,  his  renown,  which  is 
as  enduring  as  the  hills. 

Consult  The  Master  Builder  of  a Great  Commonwealth , by  Jos6  F.  Godoy 
(N.  Y.,  1910),  Un  Pueblo , un  Siglo  y un  H ombre,  by  Dr.  Fortunato  Her- 
ndndez  (Mexico,  1909). 


CHIEF  EVENTS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTORY  ccxxxv 


XVI.  Chronological  Table  of  the  Chief  Events  in  Mexican 
History. 

I.  From  the  Earliest  Times  to  the  Spanish  Conquest. 

7th  Cent.  The  Toltecs,  advancing  from  a northerly  direction, 
entered  the  territory  of  Anahuac  at  the  close  of  the 
Seventh  Century. 

1100.  The  Toltecs,  who  had  extended  their  sway  over  the 
remotest  borders  of  Anahuac,  disappeared  from  the 
land  as  silently  and  as  mysteriously  as  they  had  en- 
tered it. 

1200.  A numerous  and  rude  tribe,  called  the  Chichimecs, 
entered  the  deserted  country  from  the  far  North- 
west. 

1200-1300.  Other  races,  of  a higher  civilization,  followed  the 
Chichimecs  and  reached  the  country  from  the  North. 
The  most  noted  of  these  were  the  Aztecs,  or  Mexicans. 

1325.  The  Mexicans  establish  themselves  in  the  Valley  of 
Anahuac  and  call  their  settlement  Tenochtitlan. 

1485.  Hernan  Cortes  is  born  at  Medellin,  Estremadura,  Spain. 

1492.  Christopher  Columbus  discovers  America. 

1502.  Montezuma  II  is  raised  to  the  Aztec  throne. 

1504.  Hernan  Cortes  sails  for  Cuba. 

1517.  Francisco  Hernandez  de  Cordoba,  in  the  course  of  a 
voyage  of  adventure  from  Cuba,  discovers  the  coast 
of  Yucatan,  March  4. 

II.  The  Spanish  Invasion  and  the  Downfall  of  the  Aztec  Empire. 

1519.  Cortes  sails  from  Havana  Feb.  10,  lands  at  Tabasco 
(or  Grijalva)  March  20,  at  Vera  Cruz  April  21,  begins 
his  march  to  the  Aztec  metropolis  Aug.  16,  enters 
Tlaxcala  Sept.  23,  and  Tenochtitlan  Nov.  8. 

1520.  Montezuma  dies  June  20.  The  Spaniards  evacuate 
Tenochtitlan  on  the  night  ( Noche  Triste)  of  July  1 

1521.  Cortes  lays  siege  to  Tenochtitlan,  which  is  subjugated 
Aug.  13. 

III.  Mexico  under  the  Spanish  Viceroys. 

1522.  Cortes  is  Governor,  Captain-General,  and  Chief  Justice 
of  the  conquered  territories  of  New  Spain.  The  first 
Catholic  church  established  in  Mexico  is  founded  at 
Tlaxcala. 

1524.  Consejo  (council)  de  las  Indias  perfected  by  the  King 
of  Spain.  Arrival  in  Mexico  of  the  Franciscan  Friars 
known  as  the  Twelve  Apostles. 

1527.  Bishopric  of  Mexico  created.  The  first  Bishop,  Juan 
de  Zumarraga,  collects  the  picture-paintings,  writings 
and  historical  MSS.  of  the  Indians  from  the  great  de- 


ccxxxvi  CHIEF  EVENTS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTORY 


pository  of  the  national  archives  at  Tezcuco,  and  from  j 
other  sources,  assembles  them  in  the  market-place  of  i 
Tlaitelolco,  and  burns  them.  Bigotry  thus  destroys  the 
priceless  annals  of  the  first  Americans. 

1531.  Alleged  miraculous  apparition  of  the  Virgin  of  Guada- 
lupe in  Mexico. 

1547.  Death  of  Hernando  Cortes,  at  Castilleja  de  la  Cuesta,  ! 
Spain,  Dec.  2,  in  the  63d  year  of  his  age. 

1571.  The  Tribunal  of  the  Inquisition  is  formally  established 
in  the  City  of  Mexico. 

1691.  Conquest  of  Texas. 

1693.  First  newspaper  established  in  New  Spain. 

1767.  The  Jesuits  are  expelled  from  Spanish  America. 

1806.  Benito  Pablo  Juarez  born  March  21. 

1808.  Intervention  of  Napoleon  Bonaparte  in  Spanish  affairs,  j 
Revolution  in  Spain.  The  idea  of  Mexican  independ-  t 
ence  germinates. 

IV.  Beginning  of  the  Mexican  War  for  Independence. 

1810.  The  Parish  Priest  Miguel  Hidalgo  y Costilla,  fugleman 
of  Mexican  freedom,  sounds  the  “ Grito  de  Dolores  ” 
(Sept.  16)  and  the  death-knell  of  Spanish  misrule  in 
Mexico. 

1811.  Hidalgo  captured  and  shot. 

1813.  First  Mexican  Congress  meets  at  Chilpancingo  Sept. 
14.  Formal  Declaration  of  Mex.  Independence  Nov.  6.  I 

1814.  First  Constitution  at  Apatzingan,  Oct.  22. 

1820.  Inquisition  suppressed  in  Mexico,  May  31. 


V.  Independent  Mexico.  The  First  Empire. 

1821.  Mexico  wins  Independence  from  Spain. 

1822.  First  Mexican  Congress.  Regency  installed. 

Agustin  de  Iturbide  named  Emperor,  May  19.  Antonio 
Lopez  de  Santa  Anna  proclaims  a republic. 

VI.  Collapse  of  the  First  Empire.  Rise  of  the  Mexican  Republic. 

1823.  Iturbide  abdicates;  the  empire  falls  into  ruins.  Central- 
ist and  Federalist  parties  formed.  The  Monroe  Doc- 
trine (of  transcendental  interest  to  Mexico)  proclaimed 
by  the  United  States.  Iturbide  shot  at  Padilla,  July  14. 

1824.  Federal  Constitution  proclaimed.  Estados  Unidos 
Mexicanos  organized. 

1825.  The  Spanish  troops  evacuate  El  Castillo  de  San  Juan 
de  Ulua.  Extinction  of  Spain's  power  in  Mexico. 

1830.  Porfirio  Diaz,  the  Greatest  Mexican,  born  Sept.  15. 

1835.  Rebellion  of  Texas. 


CHIEF  EVENTS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTORY  ccxxxvii 


1843.  Bases  Org&nicas  Politicas  de  la  Republica  Mexicana 
and  final  Centralization  of  the  Government. 

1845.  Annexation  of  Texas  to  the  United  States. 


VII.  The  War  with  the  United  States. 

1846.  Advance  of  the  American  General  Taylor  to  Monterey. 
California  and  New  Mexico  taken  by  the  United  States. 
Monterey  (Mexico)  stormed  and  captured. 

1847.  Battle  of  Buena  Vista,  Feb.  23,  Chihuahua  occupied 
Feb.  28. 

General  Scott  entered  the  Valley  of  Mexico  Aug.  9. 
Battle  of  Churubusco,  Aug.  20.  Battle  of  “ Casa  Mata  ” 
and  “Molino  del  Rey,”  Sept.  8.  Chapultepec  stormed 
and  captured  Sept.  13.  Entry  of  American  Army  into 
the  capital  Sept.  15. 

1848.  Treaty  of  Guadalupe-Hid?  lgo  (Feb.  2)  ends  war  with 
the  United  States. 

1856.  President  Comonfort  issued  (June  25)  decree  of  desa- 
mortizacion  ordering  the  sale,  at  its  assessed  value,  of 
all  landed  estate  held  by  the  Church. 

1859.  Benito  Juarez  proclaims  (July  12)  the  Reform  Laws. 


vni.  The  French  Intervention. 

1861.  Treaty  of  London  (Oct.  31)  adopted  by  England, 
France,  and  Spain.  Their  forces  arrive  in  Vera  Cruz 
to  carry  out  provisions  of  the  treaty. 

1862.  Treaty  of  London  dissolved.  England  and  Spain  with- 
draw from  Mexico.  French  Army  advances  and  is 
defeated  at  Puebla  in  famous  battle  of  Cinco  de  Mayo. 
Suppression  of  religious  orders  in  Mexico. 

1863.  French  troops  capture  Puebla  and  advance  on  the 
capital.  The  Republican  Government  retires  to  San 
Luis  Potosi,  thence  to  Saltillo,  and  later  to  Monterey. 
The  French  organize  a government  at  the  capital  and 
elect  Maximilian  of  Hapsburg  Emperor  of  Mexico. 


IX.  The  Second  Empire.  Mexico  under  the  Austrian  Archduke 
Maximilian. 

1864.  Maximilian  reaches  Mexico  and  is  crowned  June  12 
as  Emperor  of  Mexico. 

1865.  The  United  States  Government  demands  the  with- 
drawal of  French  troops  from  Mexico. 

1866.  The  Juarez  Government  returns  to  Chihuahua. 

1867.  The  French  troops  are  withdrawn  from  Mexico  in  Feb, 
General  Porfirio  Diaz  captures  Puebla  April  2. 


ccxxxviii  CHIEF  EVENTS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTORY 


X.  Downfall  of  the  Second  Empire.  Rise  of  the  Republic. 

1867.  Maximilian  surrenders  May  15  to  General  Escobedo, 
at  Queretaro.  Execution,  on  June  19,  of  Maximilian 
and  Generals  Mejia  and  Miramon,  at  Queretaro. 

General  Porfirio  Diaz  takes  the  City  of  Mexico  June  21. 

1876.  General  Porfirio  Diaz  enters  Mexico  City  (Nov.  24)  at 
the  head  of  a revolutionary  army  and  is  proclaimed 
Provisional  President. 

1877.  Porfirio  Diaz  is  elected  Constitutional  President. 

1884.  Porfirio  Diaz  is  again  made  President. 

1888.  Porfirio  Diaz  is  again  made  President. 

1892.  Porfirio  Diaz  is  again  made  President. 

1896.  Porfirio  Diaz  is  again  made  President. 

1900.  Porfirio  Diaz  is  again  made  President. 

The  great  canal  for  draining  the  Valley  of  Mexico  is 
completed  at  a cost  of  sixteen  millions  of  pesos. 

1904.  Porfirio  Diaz  is  again  made  President. 

Guided  by  the  strong  and  experienced  hand  of  the 
President,  the  United  Mexican  States  join  the  rank  of 
great  nations. 

1906.  Establishment  of  the  gold  standard. 

Great  influx  of  foreigners  and  foreign  capital. 

The  Diaz  Government  inspires  confidence,  revolutions 
are  things  of  the  past,  and  8800,000,000  of  foreign 
capital  comes  to  Mexico. 

1907.  The  national  revenues  exceed  the  expenditures  by 
twenty-nine  millions  of  pesos. 

1905.  A shrewd  financial  plan,  conceived  by  Jose  Yvez  jj 
Limantour,  Mexico’s  greatest  Minister  of  Finance,  it 
places  the  vast  Mexican  Central  Railway  System  il 
under  Government  control ; the  lines  are  merged  with  1 
the  Mexican  National  System  under  the  title  of  Los  ] 
Ferrocarriles  Nacionales  de  Mexico. 

1909.  Unexampled  prosperity  marks  the  Diaz  administration,  i ! 

1910.  Porfirio  Diaz,  though  in  his  80th  year,  is  again  elected  j i 
President  by  an  overwhelming  majority. 

In  September  the  nation  celebrates,  with  great  splen-  I 
dor,  the  100th  anniversary  of  its  independence. 

The  Mexican  Southern  Railway  is  absorbed  by  the  j 
National  Railways  of  Mexico. 

The  first  commercially  productive  oil-wells  in  the 
present  Southern  District  of  the  Mexican  Fields  are  j 
brought  in  by  the  Huasteca  Petroleum  Company. 

The  P&nuco-Topila  Field  is  developed  by  the  East  I 
Coast  Oil  Co.,  and  Tampico  starts  on  its  phenomenal 
rise  to  greatness. 


CHIEF  EVENTS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTORY  ccxxxix 


XI.  Contemporary  Mexico. 

A Chronological  Summary  ol 
The  Chief  Events  in  Mexican  History. 

From  1910  to  1922  inclusive. 

1910.  Recognized  everywhere  as  the  “Treasure  House  of  the 
World,”  with  an  unimpaired  credit,  Mexico  stands  at 
the  zenith  of  its  Golden  Age  of  financial  prosperity. 
Francisco  Madero,  Jr.,  of  Coahuila,  issues  a book,  “ The 
Presidential  Succession  of  1910,”  in  which  the  Diaz 
Administration  is  severely  attacked,  and  the  virtues  of 
a democracy  are  extolled. 

After  a personal  propaganda  against  the  Federal  Gov- 
ernment, Madero  is  arrested  and  sentenced  to  the  peni- 
tentiary for  an  indefinite  period. 

He  is  released  on  bail,  Oct.  8,  and  immediately  leaves 
for  Texas. 

In  Nov.  he  returns  to  Mexico,  assembles  a small  army 
of  adherents,  and  remains  in  the  vicinity  of  Ciudad 
Juarez. 

The  riots  (in  Nov.)  in  Mexico  City  are  followed  by  gen- 
eral revolutionary  outbreaks  in  various  cities  and  states 
of  the  Republic. 

1911.  Aided  by  General  Francisco  Villa  (Doroteo  Arango), 

the  Maderistas  capture  Ciudad  Juarez  (May  10)  after 
killing  or  wounding  330  persons.  j 

Madero  demands  the  resignation  of  Porfirio  Diaz.  * 
Great  riots  (May  24)  in  Mexico  City  in  which  many 
persons  are  killed  and  many  wounded. 

President  Porfirio  Diaz  resigns  (May  25),  and  Francisco 
Leon  de  la  Barra  (sometime  Ambassador  of  Mexico  at 
Washington)  is  made  president  ad  interim  (pending  an 
election). 

Porfirio  Diaz  leaves  the  capital  (May  31)  and  sails  from 
Vera  Cruz  on  the  (Hamburg-American)  S.S.  Ypiranga 
for  France. 

Madero  makes  a triumphant  entry  into  Mexico  City 
June  7,  — on  which  day  a formidable  earthquake  sav- 
agely shakes  the  city  and  kills  many  persons. 

Madero  is  elected  President  Oct.  1,  and  takes  the  oath 
of  office  Nov.  6. 

Emiliano  Zapata  starts  a revolt  in  the  State  of  Morelos, 
and  sporadic  disorders  of  a like  nature  flame  forth  in 
various  parts  of  the  Republic. 

General  Bernardo  Reyes,  former  Governor  of  Nuevo 
Leon,  and  Minister  of  War  in  the  Diaz  Cabinet,  heads 


ccxl  CHIEF  EVENTS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTORY 

(in  Dec.)  an  abortive  revolt  in  the  North,  and  upon 
surrendering  to  the  Government  forces,  is  jailed. 

1912.  Because  of  the  disorders  in  Mexico,  the  U.S.  War 
Department  orders  100,000  American  troops  to  make 
readv  for  concentration  on  the  Mexican  border. 

Four  hundred  Vasquistas,  or  followers  of  Emilio  Vas- 
quez  (a  former  member  of  the  De  la  Barra  Cabinet), 
occupy  (Feb.  27)  Ciudad  Juarez  after  its  evacuation  by 
the  Federals. 

The  Washington  Department  of  State  warns  (March  2) 
all  Americans  to  withdraw  from  Mexico. 

General  Pascual  Orozco,  Jr.  (Madero’s  chief  lieutenant 
in  the  anti-Diaz  movement),  heads  a revolt  (Feb.  28) 
against  the  Madero  Government;  occupies  Chihuahua 
City,  and  names  himself  governor  of  the  State. 

The  Washington  Government  prohibits  the  shipment 
of  arms  to  Mexican  rebels. 

Orozco  inflicts  a crushing  defeat  (March  24)  on  the 
Federals  (at  Corralitos  and  Rellano)  led  by  Generals 
Aureliano  Blanquet,  Trucy  Albert,  and  Gonzales  Salas. 

— Salas  commits  suicide  on  the  train  which  bears  him 
from  the  field. 

The  entire  body  of  American  engineers  and  conductors 
of  the  National  Railways  of  Mexico  leaves  the  service 
and  returns  to  the  United  States. 

General  Victoriano  Huerta  organizes  a new  army  for 
the  Government;  marches  north,  and  defeats  the  I 
Orozquistas  (July  3)  at  Bachimba. 

Orozco  and  his  followers  abandon  Chihuahua  and  re-  I 
treat  to  Ciudad  Juarez 

The  Federals  recapture  Ciudad  Juarez  (Aug.  20),  rout  I 
the  Vasquistas,  and  quell  organized  rebellion  in  the  I 
North  against  the  Madero  Government. 

General  Felix  Diaz  (a  nephew  of  Porfirio  Diaz)  seizes  I 
Vera  Cruz  Oct.  16  and  starts  a revolt  (which  fails)  I 
against  the  Government.  . . . I 

In  a second  uprising  (Oct.  23),  Diaz  is  captured,  and  I 
Vera  Cruz  taken  by  Federals  under  General  Beltran. 
Diaz  is  condemned  to  death  (Oct.  27)  by  a court  mar-  ! 
tial,  and  pending  the  execution  is  confined  in  the  Castle  ■ 
of  San  Juan  de  Ulua.  , . , 1 

1913.  Diaz  is  taken  to  Mexico  City  and  is  confined  in  the  |j 
military  prison  there.  Along  with  Bernardo  Reves,  he  is  I 
'liberated  (Feb.  9)  by  General  Mondragon  and  other  U 
partisans  of  his  cause,  and  during  an  attack  on  the  i 
National  Palace,  General  Reyes  is  killed. 

At  the  head  of  his  remaining  forces  Diaz  storms  and 
captures  the  Arsenal  (La  Ciudadela ),  barricades  him 
self  therein,  and  inaugurates  the  Decena  Trdgica  (Iragic  r 


CHIEF  EVENTS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTORY  ccxli 


Ten  Days),  during  which  several  thousand  Mexicans 
are  killed. 

General  Victoriano  Huerta  is  made  Commander-in- 
Chief  of  the  Federal  forces. 

On  Feb.  18,  at  noon,  President  Madero  is  overpowered 
at  his  quarters  in  the  National  Palace,  and  forced  to 
resign.  Lieutenant-Colonel  Riveroll  and  one  other  are 
killed,  and  two  others  are  wounded. 

At  1 p.m.  on  the  same  day  Vice-President  Pino  Suarez 
and  his  Cabinet  are  placed  under  arrest. 

Gustavo  Madero  (brother  to  the  President)  is  arrested 
(2  p.m.)  and  shot  to  death  at  1 a.m.  on  the  19th,  while 
being  transferred  from  the  Arsenal  to  the  Palace. 

At  6 p.m.  Congress  met  to  set  up  a new  government. 
At  10.15  the  resignations  of  Francisco  I.  Madero,  Jr., 
and  Jos6  Maria  Pino  Suarez,  as  President  and  Vice- 
President,  were  accepted.  At  10.34  Pedro  Lascurain 
(Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs)  succeeded  to  the  Presi- 
dency, taking  the  oath  before  both  houses  of  Congress. 
His  only  official  act  was  to  name  Victoriano  Huerta  as 
Minister  of  Gobernacion,  and  after  this  appointment 
was  confirmed,  Lascurain  presented  his  resignation  as 
President;  which  at  11  o’clock  was  accepted  by  the 
Chamber  with  but  one  dissenting  vote.  He  had  been 
President  of  Mexico  for  twenty-six  minutes.  All  for- 
malities having  been  complied  with,  Victoriano  Huerta 
was  now  Minister  of  Gobernacidn,  acting  as  President 
of  Mexico. 

At  12.30  Sunday  a.m.  Feb.  23,  while  Madero  and  Suarez 
were  being  conducted  from  the  Palace  to  the  Peniten- 
tiary, they  attempted  to  escape  (according  to  a report 
issued  at  3 a.m.  and  signed  by  the  Provisional  Presi- 
dent) and  were  killed  (presumably  by  shots  from  a 
rescuing  party). 

A military  oligarchy  obtains  in  Mexico,  and  revolution 
prevails  in  many  parts  of  the  Republic. 

Venustiano  Carranza  (Governor  of  Coahuila  under 
Madero  in  1911)  heads  a revolt  (March)  against  the 
Huerta  Government.  Representatives  of  ten  states 
sign  the  Plan  of  Guadalupe,  and  support  Carranza  — 
who  styles  himself  a “Constitucionalista.” 

A sanguinary  battle  between  Federalists  under  General 
Ojeda,  and  Constitucionalistas  under  General  Alvaro 
Obregon,  is  fought  (May  9 to  12)  near  Guaymas;  800 
Federals  and  250  Constitucionalistas  are  killed  or 
wounded. 

Henry  Lane  Wilson,  the  American  Ambassador,  is  re- 
called July  16;  he  leaves  Mexico  City  July  18,  and  his 
resignation  is  accepted  Aug.  4. 


ccxlii  CHIEF  EVENTS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTORY 


Durango  and  other  cities  of  Northern  Mexico  are  cap- 
tured and  looted  by  opposing  forces. 

John  Lind,  ex-Governor  of  Minnesota,  is  appointed  by 
President  Wilson  as  adviser  to  the  American  Embassy 
(at  Mexico  City7)  Aug.  4,  and  as  the  personal  represen- 
tative of  the  American  President,  he  reaches  Vera  Cruz 
Aug.  9. 

Dr.  William  Bayard  Hale  leaves  Washington  (Aug.  10) 
with  instructions  from  the  American  State  Department, 
for  John  Lind,  at  Vera  Cruz. 

General  Pancho  Villa  besieges  and  captures  Torreon 
(Oct.  1). 

Federal  soldiers  capture  and  occupy  Ciudad  Porfirio 
Diaz  (Oct.  7). 

General  Obregon  captures  Culiacan  (Nov.  14). 

1914.  President  Woodrow  Wilson  lifts  (Feb.  4)  the  embargo  ; 
on  arms  for  Mexico. 

The  town  of  San  Pedro  is  captured  (April  5)  by  forces 
under- General  Villa. 

John  Lind  returns  (April  7)  to  the  United  States. 

The  arrest,  at  Tampico,  by  soldiers  of  President  Huerta,  , 
of  some  American  marines  from  the  S.S.  Dolphin,  gives 
rise  (April  9),  to  the  ‘‘Tampico  Incident,”  and  seriously 
embroils  Mexico  with  the  United  States. 

Rear-Admiral  Mayo,  acting  under  orders  from  his 
Government,  demands  (April  10)  a conciliatory  salute  j 
to  the  American  flag,  which  is  refused. 

American  marines  are  landed  (April  21)  at  Vera  Cruz, 
and  during  the  struggle  for  its  possession,  17  Americans 
are  killed  and  67  wounded;  many  Mexicans  lose  their 
lives. 

The  Hamburg-American  S.S.  Ypiranga  reaches  Vera 
Cruz  laden  with  munitions  for  the  Huerta  Government, 
and  is  denied  entrance  by  the  American  Navy. 

Nelson  O’Shaughnessy,  Charge  d’Affaires  at  the  Ameri- 
can Embassy,  leaves  Mexico  City  April  23,  for  Vera 
Cruz.  He  is  recalled  to  Washington  May  1,  and  does 
not  return  to  Mexico. 

Under  strong  pressure  from  Washington,  President  | 
Huerta  resigns  (July  15)  and  leaves  for  Europe. 
Francisco  Carbajal  is  made  Provisional  President,  and  i 
he  appoints  (July  22)  General  Carranza  as  Secretary-  of  | 
Foreign  Affairs. 

Carbajal  resigns  Aug.  12,  and  on  the  15th,  Constitu-  i 
tionalist  troops  led  by  General  Obregon  enter  and  take  ! 
Mexico  City.  He  is  followed  (Aug.  20)  by  General 
Carranza,  who  styles  himself  “First  Chief.” 

Paul  Fuller,  acting  as  personal  representative  of  Presi- 
dent  Wilson,  leaves  Washington  Sept.  4,  for  a confer- 
ence  with  General  Carranza. 


CHIEF  EVENTS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTORY  ccxliii 


General  Pancho  Villa  repudiates  Carranza’s  leadership, 
heads  a campaign  against  him,  and  calls  his  followers 
“ Villistas.”  Under  Villa’s  domination,  the  Mexican 
National  Convention,  held  at  Aguascalientes  Nov.  10, 
appoints  Eulalio  Gutierrez  Provisional  President. 
Coincidentally,  General  Carranza  moves  his  capital  to 
Puebla,  and  Generals  Villa  and  Zapata  take  possession 
of  Mexico  City. 

The  American  troops  are  withdrawn  from  Vera  Cruz 
Nov.  23,  and  General  Carranza  moves  thither.  Later 
he  returns  to  the  capital. 

1915.  Conditions  on  the  American  frontier  having  become 
acute,  General  Villa  signs  (Jan.  9)  an  agreement  with 
the  U.S.  Government  to  stop  brigandage  there  and  to 
restore  tranquillity  to  Northern  Mexico. 

President  Gutierrez  abandons  the  capital  Jan.  16,  and 
Roque  Gonzales  Garza  is  appointed  (Jan.  16)  President 
in  his  stead.  General  Gutierrez  surrenders  his  troops 
(Jan.  27)  to  General  Carranza,  and  on  the  same  day 
President  Garza  resigns  his  office,  and  with  the  Con- 
vention^ t army  evacuates  the  capital. 

General  Obregon,  at  the  head  of  the  Carranza  forces, 
enters  Mexico  City  Jan.  28. 

General  Carranza  expels  (Feb.  11)  the  Spanish  Minister 
Senor  Caro. 

General  Obregon  evacuates  the  capital  on  March  10, 
and  General  Zapata  enters  and  takes  possession  of  it. 
Duval  West,  acting  as  President  Wilson’s  personal 
representative,  goes  to  Mexico  March  30. 

Carranza  forces  under  General  Obregon  defeat  the 
Villistas  at  Celaya  April  15. 

By  June  the  struggle  for  supremacy  between  the  war- 
ring factions  has  become  so  sanguinary  that  President 
Wilson  intimates  (June  2)  intervention  unless  they 
settle  their  differences. 

t General  Obregon  inflicts  a crushing  defeat  on  Generals 
Villa  and  Angeles  at  Leon  June  6. 

Roque  Gonzales  Garza  is  officially  deposed  as  President 
(June  9)  and  Francisco  Lagos  Chazaro  is  elected  to  the 
, office. 

Ex-President  Victoriano  Huerta  and  General  Pascual 
Orozco,  Jr.,  are  arrested  (June  27)  at  Newman,  New 
Mexico,  charged  by  the  U.S.  Government  with  plotting 
a revolution  against  Mexico. 

Porfirio  Diaz,  former  President  of  Mexico,  dies  (July  2) 
in  Paris,  France,  aged  84  years. 

General  Pascual  Orozco,  Jr.,  escapes  from  El  Paso, 
Texas,  crosses  into  Mexico  and  is  killed  during  a raid 
on  the  border. 


ccxliv  CHIEF  EVENTS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTORY 


Carranza  forces  under  Pablo  Gonzales  capture  Mexico 
City  July  10. 

A Pan-American  Conference,  consisting  of  leading 
Americans,  Mexicans,  and  representatives  from  Argen- 
tina, Brazil,  Chile,  Bolivia,  Uruguay,  and  Guatemala, 
meet  (June- July)  at  Niagara  Falls,  Ontario,  for  the 
purpose  of  appealing  to  the  revolutionary  leaders  for  a 
cessation  of  hostilities. 

American  interests  in  Mexico  are  placed  (Aug.  12)  in 
the  care  of  the  Brazilian  Minister  at  Mexico  City. 

The  United  States  officially  recognizes  (Oct.  19)  Gen- 
eral Venustiano  Carranza  as  the  Chief  Executive  of  the 
de  facto  Government  of  Mexico. 

1916.  Nineteen  Americans  are  taken  (Jan.  10)  from  a train 
near  Chihuahua,  and  are  shot  to  death  by  bandits  re- 
ported to  be  under  orders  from  Francisco  Villa. 
Ex-President  Victoriano  Huerta  dies  (born  1852)  at 
El  Paso,  Texas  (Jan.  13)  shortly  after  his  release  from  a 
prison  there. 

An  army  of  Mexicans  under  General  Villa  attacks 
(March  9)  Columbus,  New  Mexico,  and  the  camp  of 
the  13th  United  States  Cavalry,  killing  8 troopers  and 
9 civilians. 

An  American  punitive  expedition,  commanded  by  Gen- 
eral Pershing  and  Colonel  Dodd,  enters  Mexico  with 
the  purpose  of  punishing,  capturing,  or  killing  Villa. 
Brigadier-General  Frederic  Funston  in  command  of  the 
border  situation. 

Mexican  bandits  raid  (May  6)  the  border  town  of  Glenn 
Springs,  and  Boquillas,  Texas. 

President  Wilson  calls  out  the  militia  of  different  States 
(May  9)  to  guard  the  Mexican  border,  and  on  June  18  j 
the  National  Militia  is  ordered  to  mobilize. 

In  an  encounter  (June  21)  with  Mexican  troops  at 
Carrizal,  Captain  Boyd,  Lieutenant  Adair,  and  11 
negro  cavalrymen  are  killed;  there  are  numerous  fatali- 
ties among  the  Mexicans. 

Seventeen  negro  troopers  are  captured  and  taken  to  I 
Chihuahua,  but  are  released  (June  30)  and  permitted  |j 
to  return  to  the  United  States. 

A Commission  composed  of  representative  Mexicans  fi 
and  Americans  meets  (Sept.  5)  at  New  London,  Conn.,  j: 
to  discuss  the  withdrawal  of  American  soldiers  from 
Mexico,  and  to  settle  matters  pertaining  to  the  revolu-  > 
tion. 

In  the  last  months  of  1916,  104.000  American  troops  | 
guard  the  American  frontier,  while  the  revolution  con- 
tinues throughout  Mexico. 


CHIEF  EVENTS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTORY  ccxlv 


General  Carranza,  as  provisional  president,  issues 
(Sept.  30)  a decree  limiting  the  term  of  a president  of 
the  Republic  to  four  years  and  providing  for  re-election 
of  the  chief  executive. 

1917.  The  Pershing  Expedition  is  recalled  (Jan.  29),  and  Maj. 
Gen.  Pershing  and  his  command  cross  the  American 
border  at  Columbus,  New  Mexico,  Feb.  6.  A new  Con- 
stitution is  promulgated  (Feb.  6)  to  go  into  effect  May 
1st.  Henry  P.  Fletcher,  as  ambassador  for  the  United 
States,  leaves  (Feb.  10)  for  Mexico.  With  his  staff  he 
reaches  the  Mexican  capital  Feb.  19.  He  carries  to 
Gen.  Carranza  President  Wilson’s  recognition  of  his 
government. 

General  Venustiano  Carranza  is  elected  President  of 
Mexico  March  11th.  He  is  the  first  Constitutional 
President  since  the  death  of  Francisco  I.  Madero  (Feb. 
23,  1913). 

In  a note  to  the  U.  S.  Gov’t  dated  March  17,  Mexico 
declares  absolute  neutrality  in  the  European  War. 

The  American  Department  of  State  orders  (March  18) 
five  Consular  Officers  to  return  to  their  posts  in  Mexico. 
General  Carranza  is  inaugurated  President  of  Mexico, 
May  1st. 

The  Mexican  Congress  empowers  (Nov.  21)  the  Govern- 
ment to  take  over  all  uncultivated  lands  proper  for 
agricultural  purposes. 

1918.  In  conformity  with  the  new  Constitution,  a law  (Jan. 
30th)  arrogates  to  the  Gov’t  the  oil-fields  in  the  Tampico 
district  controlled  by  General  M.  Pelaez.  The  Gov’t 
of  the  United  States  protests  (May  28)  against  the 
confiscatory  taxes  on  oil  imposed  by  the  Carranza 
Gov’t.  — The  oil  operators  in  opposition.  Great 
Britain  joins  the  U.  S.  A.  (Aug.  16)  in  diplomatic 
protest  against  the  oil  decree.  — Pres’t  Carranza,  in 
an  address  (Aug.  18)  to  Congress,  defends  Mexico’s 
rights  but  cancels  the  seizure  decree.  — The  Mexican 
Gov’t  waives  rights  (Nov.  6)  on  wells  in  actual  opera- 
tion. 

1919.  The  Mexican  State  of  Morelos  is  occupied  (March  17) 
by  Gov’t  troops  under  General  Gonzalez,  after  ten 
years  of  maladministration  and  massacre.  The  region 
is  stripped  of  rebels,  and  Zapata  is  pursued  to  the  hills 
— where  he  is  killed  (April  12  by  Carrancistas). — 
Revolutionists  are  active  in  various  parts  of  the  country. 
— General  F.  Angeles  is  proclaimed  (May  30)  pro- 
visional president  by  the  Villistas,  and  Francisco  Villa 
is  made  Secretary  of  War. 

1920.  Dissatisfaction  with  the  Carranza  regime  expresses 
itself  (April  1)  in  political  riots  in  Mexico  City.  Car- 


ccxlvi  CHIEF  EVENTS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTORY 


ranza  refuses  (May  2)  to  resign,  and  is  presented  (May 
5)  with  an  ultimatum.  Deciding  to  move  his  govern- 
ment to  Vera  Cruz,  Carranza  leaves  the  capital  (May  7). 
With  the  aim  of  restoring  peace  and  progress  to  Mexico, 
General  Alvaro  Obregon,  at  the  head  of  revolutionary 
troops,  enters  and  occupies  Mexico  City  May  10.  — 
Pending  an  election,  Adolfo  de  la  Huerta  is  named 
provisional  president  (May  12)  by  the  revolutionists. 
Pursued  by  Federal  troops,  Carranza  makes  a stand 
N.-W.  of  Puebla  — where  he  is  killed  May  23.  His 
body  is  brought  to  the  capital  May  25. 

Congress  meets  (May  25)  to  name  a provisional  presi- 
dent, and  Adolfo  de  la  Huerta  is  duly  elected.  He  takes 
the  oath  of  office  June  1.  — A general  election  is  fixed 
for  Sept.  5.  General  Alvaro  Obregon  is  legally  elected 
President  of  Mexico,  and  is  inaugurated  Dec.  1. 

1921.  Conditions  improve  under  the  Obregon  administration. 
Under  a friendly  agreement  with  the  Government, 
General  Francisco  Villa  lays  down  his  arms  and  retires 
to  private  life. 

Recognition  of  the  Obregon  Administration  by  the 
United  States  is  deferred  pending  a settlement  of 
various  questions,  chief  among  them  that  pertaining  to 
oil-wells  and  to  agricultural  land  referred  to  in  Article 
27  of  the  new  Constitution. 

Oil  exports  from  Mexico  reach  a total  of  200,000,000 
barrels. 

Centennial  festivities  commemorating  the  hundredth 
anniversary  of  Mexican  Independence  are  held  (in 
Sept.)  in  Mexico  City,  amid  great  pomp  and  rejoicing. 
All  the  nation  joins  in  the  celebration. 

The  First  International  Trade  Exposition  is  held 
(Sept. -Oct.)  in  the  capital,  and  is  participated  in  by 
upward  of  700  American  companies  interested  in 
Mexico’s  development. 

1922.  Revolutionary  movements  are  suppressed  by  the 
Obregbn  Government,  and  peace  reigns  throughout  the 
Republic. 

The  Supreme  Court  of  Mexico  decides  (May  12) 
favorably  on  the  non-retroactivity  of  Article  27,  of  the 
New  Constitution,  with  relation  to  the  ownership  of 
oil-lands  and  other  properties. 

Adolfo  de  la  Huerta,  Mexican  Minister  of  Finance, 
visits  New  York  (in  July)  for  a conference  with  foreign 
financial  representatives  to  discuss  various  questions  of 
importance  relating  to  Mexico’s  finances.  The  entire 
world  is  hopeful  that  these  preliminaries  may  result  in 
satisfactory  conclusions  for  Mexico  and  its  connected 
interests. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY 


ccxlvii 


XVII.  Bibliography. 

The  following  is  a small  selection  of  books  on  subjects  of 
interest  to  the  traveller  in  Mexico.  Other  works  of  local  value 
are  mentioned  throughout  the  Handbook. 

Historical  Works.  Histoire  des  Nations  civilisdes  du  Mexique  et  de 
l’Amerique-Centrale,  durant  les  Sidcles  anterieurs  & Christophe  Co- 
lomb,  by  Alexander  Von  Humboldt.  4 vols.  (Paris,  1857-59).  — Historia 
General  de  las  Indias  Occiden tales,  by  Antonio  de  Herrera , 5 vols. 
(1601-1615).  It  extends  from  the  year  1492,  the  time  of  the  discovery 
of  America,  to  1554,  and  is  divided  into  eight  decades.  The  work  was 
subsequently  republished  in  1730,  and  has  been  translated  into  most  of 
the  languages  of  Europe.  — Letters  of  Hernando  Cortes  (Lorenzana  edi- 
tion), by  Francisco  Antonio  Lorenzana  (Mexico,  1770).  “Cortes,  like 
Caesar,  wrote  his  own  commentaries,”  but  his  edited  letters,  with  copious 
footnotes,  as  assembled  by  Archbishop  Lorenzana , make  excellent  read- 
ing. — History  of  the  Conquest  of  Mexico,  by  William  H.  Prescott , 3 vols. 
(J.  B.  Lippincott  Co.,  Philadelphia,  1843).  Commended. — History  of 
Mexico,  by  Hubert  Howe  Bancroft  (San  Francisco,  1883).  The  chief 
events  in  Mexican  history  from  the  time  of  the  Conquest  up  to  1887  will 
be  found  in  this  admirable  work,  which,  with  Prescott’s  Conquest,  will 
give  the  traveller  the  gist  of  many  histories,  such  as  the  works  of  Oviedo , 
Herrera , Bernal  Diaz , Gomara,  Sahagun,  Ixtlilxochitl,  Camargo,  Loren- 
zana, and  others. — Historia  de  Mejico,  5 vols.,  by  Lucas  Alaman 
(Mexico,  1849-52).  — Native  Races,  H.  H.  Bancroft , 5 vols.  (San  Fran- 
cisco, 1883).  — Historia  de  Mejico  desde  sus  Tiempos  mas  Remotos  hasta 
Nuestros  Dias,  by  Niceto  de  Zamacois  (Mexico,  1877). — History  of  the 
Mexican  War,  by  General  Cadmus  M.  Wilcox  (Washington,  1892). — 
Scott's  Memoirs.  An  autobiography  (New  York,  1 864).  — The  War  with 
Mexico,  by  R.  S.  Ripley  (New  York,  1849).  —History  of  the  War  be- 
tween Mexico  and  the  United  States,  Brantz  Mayer  (N.  Y.  1848). — 
Mexico,  Aztec,  Spanish,  and  Republican,  by  Brantz  Mayer  (Hartford, 
1853).  — A Short  History  of  Mexico,  by  Arthur  Howard  Noll  (Chicago, 
1903).— From  Empire  to  Republic  (by  the  same  author).  — “Porfirio 
Diaz,”  by  Mrs.  A.  Tweedie  (London,  1907).  — Letters  of  Cortes,  by 
Francis  Augustus  MacNutt  (N.  Y.  1908).  — Biografias  de  Mexicanos 
Distinguidos,  by  Francisco  Sosa  (Mex.  1884).  — The  True  History  of  the 
Conquest  of  Mexico,  by  Bernal  Diaz  del  Castillo , (3  Vols.  translated  by 
A.  P.  Maudslay.  Hakluyt  Society,  London,  1908). 

Works  on  Art.  Spanish-Colonial  Architecture  in  Mexico,  by  Sylvester 
Baxter  (Boston,  J.  B.  Millet  & Co.),  is  a book  with  many  fine,  hand-colored 
photographs  of  churches,  secular  buildings,  facades,  etc.  It  is  recom- 
mended as  an  aid  to  a proper  understanding  of  Architecture  in  Mexico. 
— Mexican  Painting  and  Painters,  by  Robert  H.  Lamborn  (Allen,  Lane  & 
Scott,  Philadelphia),  a subscription  book  (generally  to  be  found  in  Public 
Libraries)  limited  to  500  copies.  — Investigations  and  Studies  in  Jade, 
by  Heber  R.  Bishop  (privately  printed,  New  York,  1906),  a magnificent 
work  found  only  in  National  Libraries.  — El  Arte  en  Mexico  en  la  Epoca 
Antigua  y Durante  El  Gobierno  Virreinal,  by  Manuel  G.  Revilla  (pub- 
lished by  the  Mex.  Government,  Mexico  City,  1900).  — Resena  Historica 
de  la  Pintura  Mexicana  en  los  Siglos  XVII  y XVIII,  by  Rafael  Lucio 
(Mexico,  1864).  — Maiolica  of  Mexico,  by  Edwin  Atlee  Barber  (Phila- 
delphia, 1908). 

The  Mexican  Custom-House  Tariff  and  most  of  the  Mexican  Laws 

of  direct  interest  to  foreigners,  such  as  the  Mining  Law,  Regulations 
Governing  Collection  of  Coinage,  Stamps,  Refining,  etc.;  Federal  Stamp 
Law;  Public  Lands  Law;  Patent  Laws;  Commercial,  Civil,  and  Penal 
Codes;  Banking,  Trade-mark,  Railway,  and  similar  laws  have  been  trans- 
lated into  English  and  can  be  bought  at  any  of  the  book-shops.  Here  also 
can  usually  be  found  books  on  the  Cultivation  in  Mexico  of  Coffee,  To- 
bacco, Cotton,  Rubber,  and  whatnot.  Likewise  Spanish-English  diction- 
aries, Phrase-Books,  Maps,  Spanish  Grammars  or  Methods,  Histories  of 
the  different  Mexican  States,  of  the  Mines;  Town  and  Mining  Directories, 
the  Mexican  Constitution,  etc. 


ccxlviii 


BIBLIOGRAPHY 


Books  of  Description  and  Travel.  Mexico  in  1827,  by  H.  G.  Ward  \ 

(London,  1828).  — Mexico,  Aztec,  Spanish,  and  Republican,  by  Brantz  j 
Mayer  (Hartford,  1853). — Life  in  Mexico  during  a residence  of  two 
years  in  that  country  (an  admirable  work),  by  Madame  Calderon  de  la 
Barca  (London,  1843).  — Incidents  of  Travel  in  Yucatan,  by  John  L. 
Stephens  (New  York,  1843).  — Incidents  of  Travel  in  Central  America, 
Chiapas,  and  Yucatan,  by  John  L.  Stephens  (N.  Y.  1867).  The  two 
latter  are  the  best  books  extant  on  the  famous  ruined  cities  of  Yucatan 
and  Chiapas. — Notes  on  Mexico  in  1861-62,  by  Charles  Lem  priere  (Lon- 
don, 1S62).  — The  ethnologist  and  naturalist  will  find  unusual  pleasure  in 
the  admirable  work,  “Unknown  Mexico  ” (2  vols.,  by  Carl  Lumholtz,  M.  A. 
(Charles  Scribner’s  Sons,  New  York,  1902).  — In  Indian  Mexico,  by 
Frederick  Starr  (Chicago,  1908).  — Two  Bird-Lovers  in  Mexico,  by  C.  i 
William  Beebe  (Boston,  1905).  — Through  Southern  Mexico  (Travels  of 
a Naturalist),  by  Hans  Gadow , M.A. , Ph.D.,  F.  R.  S.  (London,  1908). — 
Travels  in  Mexico,  by  Frederick  Ober  (Boston,  1883).  — The  Desert, 
by  John  C.  Van  Dyke  (N.  Y.  1902).  — Mexico  as  it  Was  and  as  it  Is,  by 
Brantz  Mayer  (N.  Y.  1844).  — The  Mines  of  Mexico,  by  J.  R.  Southicorth 
(London,  1906).  — The  Freshwater  Fishes  of  Mexico  North  of  the  Isthmus 
of  Tehuantepec,  by  S.  E.  Meek  (Chicago,  1904). 

Archaeologists  will  find  much  to  interest  them  in  the  several  excellent 
books  on  the  Ancient  Ruins  in  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  by  the  erudite  Dr. 
Manuel  Gamio,  Director  of  Anthropology  in  that  Dept,  of  the  Seeretaria  \ 
de  Agricultura  y Fomento , of  Mexico.  — Ancient  Civilizations  of  Mexico 
and  Central  America,  by  Herbert  J.  Spinden  (American  Museum  of  Natural 
History,  N.Y.  1917).  — Mexican  and  Central  American  Antiquities,  Cal- 
endar Systems  and  History  (24  papers  by  various  authors,  translated  from  ! 
the  German  and  issued  in  Bulletin  28,  of  the  Bureau  of  American  Ethnol- 
ogy, Washington,  1994').  — The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World,  by  D. 
Charnay  (London,  1887).  — Archaeological  studies  among  the  Ancient 
Cities  in  Mexico,  Publications  by  the  Field  Columbian  Museum  (Chicago, 
1895-97).  — Mexican  Archaeology,  an  Introduction  to  the  Architecture 
of  the  Mexican  and  Maya  Civilizations  of  pre-Spanish  America,  by  T.  A. 
Joyce  (Newr  York  & London,  1914).  j 

Flora  and  Fauna.  Biologfa  Centrali- Americana,  or  Contributions  to  the 
Knowledge  of  the  Flora  and  Fauna  of  Mexico  and  Central  America,  by 
.4.  P.  Maudslay  (London,  1889-1902). 

Native  Languages.  The  student  interested  in  the  Native  Languages 
may  consult  the  following  books,  most  of  which  will  be  found  in  the 
Biblioteca  Nacional  at  Mexico  City  : 

Arte  de  la  Lengua  Mexicana,  by  Juan  Guerra.  Ditto,  by  Francisco  de 
Avila. — Arte  de  la  Lengua  Tarasca,  by  Diego  Basalenque. — Arte  del 
Idioma  Maya,  by  Pedro  Beltran.  — Arte  del  Idioma  Zapotec,  by  Juan  de 
Cordova. — Gramatica  de  la  Lengua  Zoque,  by  Jose  M.  Sanchez. — Dis- 
ertacidn  sobre  la  Lengua  Othomi,  by  Manuel  de  San  Juan  Crisostemov^ 
Kdxera.  — Geografia  de  las  Lenguas  y Carta  Etnografica  de  Mexico,  by 11 
Manuel  Orozco  y Berra.  — Estuaios  Gramaticales  sobre  el  Nahuatl.  by  , 
Macario  Torres.  — Yocabulario  Castello-Zapoteco,  by  the  Junta  Colom- j j 
biana  (Mex.  1893).  — Arte  de  la  Lengua  Cahita,  by  Padre  Juan  B.  de 
V fiasco  (the  Cahita  tongue  is  spoken  by  the  Yaquis  of  Sonora  and  the  ‘ 
Mavos  of  Sinaloa.  The  book  was  printed  about  1600,  and  reprinted  by  the  1 
Federal  Government  in  1 891).  — An  extensive  treatise  on  various  of  the  • 
Indian  tribes  and  languages  will  be  found  in  the  Obras  Completas  de-Donl 
Francisco  Pimcntrd  (Mexico,  1903).  One  of  the  best  copies  extant  of  that! 
rare  work,  El  Arte  de  la  Lengua  Tarasca  o de  Michoacan,  por  el  R.  P- 
Fray  Maturino  Gilberti,  de  la  orden  de  San  Francisco,  impreso  en  Mejico I 
en  el  aho  1558,  is  in  the  private  library  of  Mr.  F.  W.  Davis,  of  Mexico  City. 

The  student  interested  in  criminology  is  referred  to  Los  Criminales  enj 
Mexico,  by  Carlos  Roumagnac  (Mexico,  1906). 

The  gourmand  will  be  interested  in  101  Mexican  Dishes,  by  May  L.\ 
Southicorth. 

The  student  of  Spanish  Heraldry  in  New  Spain  should  consult  Los 
Condes  de  Santiago,  by  Villasenor  (a  rare  book,  on  file  in  the  Biblioteca! 
Nacional,  and  to  be  met  with  sometimes  in  old  book-stalls).  Also  a Libro 
relativo  a Titulos  de  Nobleza  de  Familias  de  Mexico,  by  Ricardo  Ortega 

J 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  ccxlix 


y Perez  Gallardo  (Mexico).  Books  of  this  class  are  also  occasionally  to  be 
had  at  the  Antique  Shops  of  Mexico  City. 

The  doings  of  the  Inquisition  in  Mexico  are  described  in  Autos-de-Fd 
Celebrados  por  la  Inquisicion  de  Mexico,  by  Alejandro  Arango  y Escandon 
(in  the  Nat.  Library  at  Mex.  City). 

Mexican  Etiquette.  Manual  de  Urbanidad,  by  Antonio  Carreno  (Mexico, 

1911). 

Fiction.  The  Fair  God,  by  General  Lew  Wallace  (New  York,  1887). — 
Montezuma’s  Daughter,  by  H.  Rider  Haggard  (N.  Y.  1905).  — Cuauhte- 
moc, by  Dona  Gertrudis  Gomez  de  Avellaneda  (Mexico,  1898).  — The 
Aztec  Treasure  House,  by  Thomas  A.  Janvier  (N.  Y.  1890).  — Legends  of 
the  City  of  Mexico,  by  Thomas  A.  Janvier  (N.  Y.  1910). 

Libraries.  The  Biblioteca  Nacional  at  Mexico  City  (p.  231)  is  a mine  of 
information  for  the  student  interested  in  ancient  and  modern  Mexico. 
One  of  the  finest  private  libraries  in  the  Republic  is  that  of  Mr.  G.  R.  Gra- 
ham Conway  (of  Mexico  City),  the  scholarly  author  of  various  interesting 
monographs  on  Mexican  ecclesiastical  architecture  and  other  subjects. 

Commerce.  Of  particular  interest  to  commercial  men  and  others  doing 
business  with  Mexico  is  A Commercial  and  Industrial  Handbook  of  Mexico 
by  P.  L.  van  Buren  Bell , Trade  Commissioner  of  the  U.  S.  Department  of 
Commerce,  and  author  of  similar  books  on  Bolivia  and  Columbia.  It  aims 
to  facilitate  commercial  relations  with  Mexico,  and  it  may  be  had  upon  ap- 
plication to  the  above-named  department  at  Washington.  — Present  and 
Past  Banking  in  Mexico,  by  Walter  Flavius  Me  Caleb.  — Trading  with  Mex- 
ico, by  Wallace  Thompson  (N.  Y.  1922). 


I.  NORTH-EASTERN  MEXICO, 


1.  From  Laredo  (Texas)  via  Monterey  and  Saltillo  to 


San  Luis  Potosi  ( Queretaro  and  Mexico  City)  . . 1 

Laredo,  2.  The  Rio  Grande  del  Norte,  2. 

2.  Monterey 5 


Arrival,  5.  Cabs,  5.  Tram-cars,  5.  Hotels,  5.  Baths,  5. 
Banks,  5.  Post  and  Telegraph  Offices,  5.  Consuls,  5. 
Clubs,  5.  Secret  Societies,  5.  Stores,  5.  History  and  Char- 
acter of  the  City,  6.  El  Obispado  Viejo,  9.  Storming  of 
Monterey,  9.  Excursion  to  the  Garcia  Caves,  9.  Topo 
Chico  Hot  Springs,  10.  State  of  Nuevo  Leon,  11. 


3.  From  Monterey  to  Tampico 11 

From  Matarnoros-Brownsville  to  Monterey,  12.  From 
Monterey  to  Reata,  12. 

4.  Saltillo 12 

From  Saltillo  to  Torreon  (Coahuila  & Pacific  Railway),  13. 

From  Saltillo  to  Concepcicin  (Ferrocarril  Coahuila  y 
Zacatecas),  13.  State  of  Coahuila,  13.  Battlefield  of 
Buena  Vista,  15.  Real  de  Catorce,  16. 

5.  San  Luis  Potosi 17 

History,  1 7.  State  of  San  Luis  Potosi,  20. 


i.  From  Laredo  (Texas)  via  Monterey  and  Saltillo  to 
San  Luis  Potosi  (Queretaro  and  Mexico  City). 

Mexico  City,  1292  Kildmetros  (803  M.).  Daily  trains  (with  Pullman  and 
buffet  service)  in  about  30  hrs.  (which  later  will  be  reduced).  For  fares, 
see  the  rate  per  mile  at  p.  xxxi.  Special  through  rates  in  connection  with 
American  Railways  are  quoted  (consult  a ticket  agent,  or  the  rly.  folder). 

The  Railway  (operated  by  the  National  Railways'1  of  f Mexico,  Ferro - 
carriles  Nacionales  de  Mexico)  is  often  referred  to  as  the  Laredo  Route.  The 
trains  are  excellent,  the  service  trustworthy,  and  the  rates  reasonable.  On 
the  journey  to  the  Valley  of  Mexico  the  train  crosses  the  States  of  Tamauli- 
pas  (in  which  Nuevo  Laredo  is  situated),  Nuevo  Leon,  Coahuila,  San  Luis 
Potosf,  Guanajuato,  Queretaro,  and  Hidalgo  before  penetrating  the  State 
of  Mexico.  The  country  and  the  people  are  picturesque,  and  the  trip  is 
delightful.  — The  Matamoros- Brownsville  Line,  the  Mexico  connection 
of  the  Gulf  Coast  Lines  from  New  Orleans,  joins  the  main  line  at  Monterey, 
and  is  referred  to  at  p.  12. 

Trains  leave  from  the  International  & Great  Northern  Railway  Station  on 
the  Texas  side  of  the  Rio  Grande,  then  cross  the  new  international  bridge 
(completed  in  Feb.,  1922,  to  replace  one  burned  in  April,  1920)  to  the  Estacion 
de  los  Ferrocarriles  Nacionales  de  Mexico,  at  Nuevo  (new)  Laredo,  Mexico. 

All  shipments  (including  baggage  not  checked  through  and  unaccom- 

Eanied  by  the  owner)  into  or  out  of  Mexico  must  be  sent  in  the  care  of  a 
onded  custom-house  broker  at  the  border  — who  will  attend  to  the  passing 
of  them  through  the  custom-house  and  the  forwarding  to  destination. 
Travellers  who  cannot  accomoany  their  luggage  often  find  it  convenient  to 
forward  keys,  etc.  to  the  broker  at  the  frontier  and  have  trunks,  etc.  (which 
otherwise  would  be  held  up  and  accumulate  heavy  storage  charges)  passed 
and  forwarded.  Also  prospective  residents  shipping  furniture,  those  who 


2 Route  1. 


LAREDO 


From  Laredo 


have  made  purchases  in  Mexico  or  the  U.  S.  A.,  and  shippers  generally. 
The  Laredo,  Texas,  firm  of  Brennan  & Leonard  are  recommended  because  of 
their  long  experience  in  custom-house  formalities,  and  their  trustworthiness. 
Shipping  forms,  Customs  declarations,  Exemption  blanks  and  other  data  will 
be  sent  on  request  to  Brennan  & Leonard,  Customs  Brokers,  Laredo,  Texas. 
Hand-baggage  is  examined  on  the  cars  while  in  transit:  trunks  are  taken 
(by  the  riy.  employees)  to  the  inspection  room  in  the  station  (Mex.  side), 
where  the  examination  is  prompt  and  lenient.  Passengers  should  attend 
personally  to  the  customs  inspection  of  their  luggage.  Unclaimed  trunks 
are  held  until  the  owner  presents  himself  or  sends  some  one  'with  the  keys. 
Ample  time  is  allowed,  and  the  formalities  are  similar  to  those  at  El  Paso, 
described  at  p.  22.  (Comp.  Custom-House,  p.  xiv.)  After  the  luggage  is 
examined  it  must  be  re-checked,  in  the  check-room  at  the  end  of  the  in- 
spect ing-room.  Ask  the  baggage-man  ( guarda  de  equipajes)  to  wire-seal 
trunks. 

When  travellers  leave  Mexico  through  Laredo,  luggage  is  examined 
first  on  the  Mexican  side,  to  see  if  it  contains  archaeological  antiquities 
(whose  exportation  is  forbidden),  and  byU.  S.  customs  inspectors  on  the 
American  side  for  articles  that  pay  duty  under  the  American  regulations. 
The  examination  is  more  or  less  rigid,  but  none  the  less  courteous.  For 
reference  to  Custom-House  and  duty-free  articles  see  p.  xvi. 

The  International  & Great  Northern  Riy.  Depot  is  within  a few  minutes’ 
walk  of  the  business  centre  of  Laredo,  Texas.  Trains  on  the  Texas-Mexican 
R.R.  (known  locally  as  the  Tex.-Mex.)  leave  from  this  station  for  (162  M.) 
Corpus  Christi.  — The  Rio  Grande  & Eagle  Pas?  Riy.  Depot  is  7 squares 
N.-W.  of  the  Plaza  N acional  (3  squares  N.  of  the  I & G.  N.  station). 

Laredo  Hotels.  Hotel  Hamilton , facing  the  Plaza  Jarvis.  — Hotel 
Bender.  — Travellers'  Hotel.  Rates  in  all  from  $1.50  to  $3  a day  for  rooms. 
Meals  a la  carte. 

Time.  Laredo  uses  Central  (or  90th  Meridian)  Time,  which  is  one  hour 
faster  than  the  Mountain  (105th  Meridian)  Time  used  in  Mexico.  On 
entering  Mexico  set  watches  back  one  hour. 

Banks.  Where  Mexican  or  American  money  can  be  exchanged,  Travellers’ 
Checks,  Letters  of  Credit,  etc.  cashed:  Laredo  National  Bank,  a strong, 
widely  known  institution  with  many  interests  in  Mexico. 

Books  on  Mexico,  guides,  Spanish  interpreters,  maps,  Mexican  Laws 
and  Codes,  and  many  things  pertaining  to  Mexico,  at  the  Sonora  News  Go. 
Store  at  420  Flores  Ave. 

Laredo  (pop.  26,000)  a handsome,  progressive,  bi-lingual 
city  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Rio  Grande,  in  Webb  County, 
Texas,  often  referred  to  as  the  Gateway  to  Mexico,  one  of  the 
most  promising  of  the  border  cities,  typically  Texan  with  a 
tinge  of  Mexican  picturesqueness,  has  an  able  Chamber  of 
Commerce,  strong  banking  institutions,  many  fine  buildings, 
several  good  hotels,  and  is  the  most  important  import  and  ex- 
port centre  on  the  Texas-Mexico  border.  A huge  business 
(amounting  to  something  like  10  million  dollars  annually)  is 
conducted  with  Mexico,  and  many  thousands  of  Mexicans 
pass  annually  through  the  city  to  visit  or  better  their  fortunes 
m the  United  States.  It  is  an  unusually  attractive  place. 
Both  Mexican  and  American  money  pass  current,  and  most  of 
the  Laredo  merchants  speak  Spanish  equally  with  English. 

Laredo  1 is  known  throughout  the  United  States  for  the  pro- 


1 Laredo  (named  for  a Spanish  nobleman  of  the  18th  century)  was  first 
settled  in  1763.  In  1767  the  King  of  Spain  appointed  Don  Juan  Fernando 
to  survey  the  land  and  give  to  each  of  the  families  settled  there  a section 
comprising  5,314  acres  with  a river  frontage  of  1,000  yards.  Some  of  these 
old  land  grants  still  exist. 


to  Mexico  City . 


NUEVO  LAREDO 


1.  Route.  3 


duction  (about  1,500  carloads  a year)  of  delicious  Bermuda 
onions  which  are  shipped  to  almost  every  prominent  city  in  the 
Union,  and  which  are  regarded  as  superior  to  the  original  prod- 
uct. Also  for  an  excellent  native  cabbage  (300  carloads  annu- 
ally), spinach  (100  carloads),  and  numerous  minor  crops. 
The  benignity  of  the  climate  is  proved  by  the  fact  that  the 
crops  attain  their  greatest  development  (seed  time  Aug.- 
Sept.,  harvest  in  May)  while  blizzards  and  biting  cold  hold  the 
North  and  East  in  their  icy  grip.  In  the  immediate  environs 
of  Laredo  vast  quantities  of  alfalfa  and  the  much-prized  long- 
staple  Pima  (Egyptian)  cotton  are  produced.  A modern  roller 
cotton-gin  (first  to  be  erected  in  the  State)  has  been  built  to 
gin  this  valuable  crop. 

The  sempiternal  sunshine  which  pours  ceaselessly  down 
upon  this  region  seems  to  charge  the  soil  with  unlimited  life- 
giving  energy,  and  bumper  crops  spring  forth  in  return  for  the 
slightest  effort.  Laredo  could  support  a population  greatly  in 
excess  of  its  present  one,  and  the  district  offers  practically 
everything  a settler  might  desire,  — a delightful  and  dependa- 
ble climate,  extraordinarily  productive  land  at  a reasonable 
price,  cheap  labor  — for  Mexicans  like  the  life  on  the  American 
side,  and  there  is  practically  an  unlimited  supply  of  faithful 
workers  — modern  schools,  all  the  benefits  of  a good  local 
government,  an  unlimited  market  for  everything  the  farmer 
produces,  and  golden  sunshine  the  greater  part  of  the  year. 

Nuevo  (new)  Laredo,  on  the  Mexico  side  of  the  Rio  Grande, 
in  the  State  of  Tamaulipas,  with  a population  of  10,000  and  an 
altitude  of  459  ft.  (1J  miles  lower  than  Mexico  City):  was 
founded  by  Spaniards  in  1767.  It  contains  but  little  to  inter- 
est the  traveller  and  it  should  not  be  viewed  as  representative 
of  the  great  Republic  to  the  south.  The  Plaza  Zaragoza , in 
the  centre  of  the  town,  is  attractive  — as  are  all  Mexican 
plazas.  At  the  Tedtro  Independence  one  can  usually  see  good 
American  and  Mexican  moving  pictures,  as  the  films  are 
supplied  by  the  celebrated  Circuito  Olimpia , S.  A.  of  Mexico 
Citv. 

We  begin  our  long  journey  to  the  capital  through  a country 
which  differs  but  little  from  that  on  the  Am.  side  of  the  Rio 
Grande.  The  line  curves  to  the  r.  and  passes  an  old  Campo 
Santo  on  the  crest  of  a hill.  The  river  winds  away  to  the 
S.  and  disappears  behind  a rise  in  the  landscape.  The  country 
is  green  and  attractive  in  the  rainy  season  (June-Sept.), 
but  dry  and  jejune  during  the  remainder  of  the  year.  The 
broad  prairies  are  covered  with  mesquite  scrub,  the  haunt 
of  many  Jack-rabbits,  coyotes,  horned  toads  and  minor 
reptilia.  This  stretch  of  territory  is  one  of  the  few  in  the  Mex. 
Republic  that  does  not  show  mountains  against  the  sky- 
line. We  pass  the  unimportant  stations  of  11  M.  Sanchez v and 
19  M.  Jarita . 


4 Route  1. 


LAMPAZOS 


From  Laredo 


31  M.  Huisachito , a nondescript  town  whose  diminutive  • 
shacks  are  plastered  with  coyote  and  sheep  skins  — the  1 
killer  and  the  killed.  The  absence  of  the  bird  life  which  ! 
should  naturally  haunt  a sub-tropical  region  is  explained  [ 
by  the  presence  of  sailing  hawks,  who  search  the  ground  with  j 
sharp,  investigating  eyes  and  pick  up,  from  time  to  time, 
unwary  rabbits,  prairie-dogs,  and  succulent  lizards;  which  ! 
latter,  if  caught  by  the  tail,  decentralize  it,  in  some  curious 
way,  and  scuttle  off  and  leave  it  as  a clammy  reminder  of  rep-  j 
tilian  duplicity  and  astuteness.  We  enter  the  State  of  Nuevo 
Leon  (p.  11).  37  M.  Camaron.  We  cross  a narrow  creek  ( Salado 
— salt)  flowing  through  a gorge  which  intersects  the  plain. 

44  M.  Rodriguez.  The  views  are  somewhat  monotonous  and 
only  the  trees  save  them  from  becoming  irksome  to  the  eye. 
54  M.  Mesa.  58  M.  Mojina.  63  M.  Naranjo.  We  enter  a 
region  of  trees,  wTith  mountains  on  the  r.  and  1. 

72  M.  Lampazos.  Rly.  restaurant.  Meals  $1.  The  old 
Mexican  town  lies  about  1 M.  to  the  E.  of  the  station.  Cabs 
(50  c.)  meet  trains.  Stock-raising  is  the  chief  industry  of  the 
region,  and  its  proceeds  support  the  pop.  of  7,000.  Behind  , 
the  town  rise  the  blue  crests  of  the  Eastern  Cordilleras. 
Opposite  it  is  a table-topped  hill  with  perpendicular  walls 
a thousand  or  more  ft.  high,  and  a flat  summit  containing 
nearly  a thousand  acres  of  arable  land.  The  only  road  to  the 
top  is  a rocky,  zigzag  trail  so  narrow  that  only  a man 
or  a mule  may  pass.  A dwindling  community  of  poor  Indians 
dwells  on  this  mesa,  where  the  soil  is  fertile.  Formerly  it  was 
the  home  of  a powerful  Indian  tribe,  the  Cartujanos , so  called 
by  the  Spaniards  who  established  a Benedictine  mission 
among  them  three  centuries  or  more  ago.  One  mile  from  the 
town,  in  the  foothills,  is  a splendid  spring  ( ojo  ae  agua)  of 
pure  and  clear  water,  whence  the  town  gets  its  supply.  We 
proceed  southward  over  a fairly  level  country  delimned  by 
serrated  hills.  85  M.  Salome  Botello. 

106  M.  Bustamante.  Hard  by,  are  the  lees  of  a colony  of 
Tlascalan  Indians  whose  forefathers  were  the  allies  of  Her  nan  I 
Cortes  in  his  celebrated  siege  of  Montezuma’s  capital.  The 
first  settlers  travelled  northward  with  the  Spanish  con- 
querors four  centuries  ago,  aiding  them  in  their  petty  wars 
with  the  various  tribes  and  peopling  the  conquered  territory.  ! 
The  town  of  Bustamante  is  at  the  far  r.  hidden  by  trees,  f 
Vehicles  from  the  station,  50  c.  Good  views  across  the  sur-  i 
rounding  country.  109  M.  Villaldama.  We  cross  a well-  j 
cultivated  valley  to  117  M.  Alamo , amid  corn-fields.  Beyond 
are  many  cacti  and  we  soon  enter  a thin  forest  of  tall  yuc- 
cas, the  outposts  of  many  miles  of  similar  forests  further  down 
the  line.  130  M.  Stevenson.  ;m| 

148  M.  Salinas.  We  cross  a small  river  spanned  by  a steel  I 
bridge  and  traverse  a well-cultivated  valley  cut  up  by  irri- 


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MONTEREY 


2.  Route.  5 


gating  ditches  and  dotted  with  trees.  The  mountains  to  the 
r.  rise  in  tooth-like  peaks  and  are  known  as  Dientes.  The 
hills  close  in  as  we  approach  Monterey.  153  M.  Ramon 
Trevino. 

The  Bishop's  Palace,  a Monterey  landmark  (p.  9),  stands  on 
the  crest  of  a hill  at  the  far  r.  The  curious  Silla,  or  Saddle 
Mountain  is  seen  to  good  advantage  (1)  after  we  pass  Mat- 
amor  os  Junction  and  we  approach  the  Monterey  station. 
167  M.  Monterey.  For  a continuation  of  the  journey  see  p.  12. 

2.  Monterey. 

Arrival.  There  is  a Union  Railway  Station,  E station  de  los  Ferrocarriles 
Nacionales  de  Mexico , where  all  trains  arrive  and  depart.  Rly.  restaurant. 

Taxis;  Cabs  (see  p.  xxxviii).  Taxis  (for  2-3  persons)  S3  an  hr.;  SI. 50  for 
\ hr.  or  less.  Cabs  (buggy)  SI. 50  an  hr.;  75  c.  for  \ hr.  or  less.  Auto  for  4 
pers.  S4  an  hr.,  S2  for  £ hr.  or  less.  All  higher  on  Sundays  and  feast  days. 

| Stands  at  various  places  in  the  city. 

Tramcars  ( tranvlas ) criss-cross  the  city  and  are  much  used  by  the  eco- 
nomically inclined.  Good  service. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  Hotel  Ancira;  Hotel  Colonial;  Hotel  America;  all 
near  the  Plaza  Zaragosa  (PI.  E.  4).  Rates;  rooms  only  from  S3  to  $8.  Meals 
in  the  restaurant  a la  carta. 

Banks.  Banco  de  Nuevo  Le6n  (correspondents  of  the  Mexico  City  Bank- 
ing Corporation,  S.  A.),  Calle  Morelos  (PI.  D.  4).  Banque  Francaise,  Calle 
Dr.  Mier  y Galeana  (PI.  D.  4). 

Telegraph-Office  ( Telegrafos  Federates ),  Calle  Morelos  (PI.  D.  4). 

Post-Office  ( Corteo ),  south  side  of  the  Cathedral. 

Clubs  ( casinos , clubs).  Foreign  Club,  upstairs  over  the  Sonora  News  Co. 

; Store,  facing  the  Plaza  Zaragoza  (PI.  E.  4).  El  Casino,  facing  the  Plaza 
Zaragoza.  — German  Club,  Calle  Matamoros. 

Amusements : Theatres  & Moving  Pictures.  There  are  a number  of  Mo- 
tion Picture  Houses,  but  the  best  films  can  usually  be  seen  at  the  Tedtro 
Independencia,  and  the  Salon  Variedades  “ El  Progreso .”  Both  specialize 
on  American  films. 

American  store  where  Travellers’  Requisites,  American  newspapers, 

I magazines,  Fountain  Pens,  Cameras  and  supplies,  Books,  Clothing  and 
many  American  Specialties  can  be  found,  The  Sonora  News  Company, 

B facing  the  Plaza  Zaragoza  (PI.  E.  4).  English  spoken.  There  are  a number 
j of  attractive  native  shops  but  they  do  not  always  stock  the  things  travellers 
want. 

Consuls  ( cdnsules ) of  many  nations  maintain  offices  in  Monterey,  but 
1 as  locations  are  apt  to  change,  the  traveller  is  advised  to  consult  the  local 
I directory. 

Secret  Societies.  The  Masonic  Temple  is  in  the  Calle  Lerdo  de  Tejada. 
The  Knights  of  Pythias,  Woodmen  of  the  World,  and  several  other  societies 
i meet  here.  For  addresses  see  the  newspapers  or  the  local  directory. 

Railway  Lines  run  from  Monterey  to  Tampico  (Route  3,  p.  11) ; to  Tor- 
reon  (p.  36),  to  Matamoros  (p.  12),  to  Laredo,  p.  1,  and  to  Mexico  City 
! (p.  121 ; to  Reata  (p.  100).  For  time  of  departure  of  train,  and  other  informa- 

Ition,  consult  the  Rly.  Folder  or  the  Guia  Oficial. 

Excursions.  There  are  several  places  in  the  environs  which  the  traveller 
with  time  to  spare  may  like  to  visit.  Topo  Chico,  with  its  mineral  springs, 

| is  described  at  p.  10.  — The  Garcia  Caves  (described  at  pp.  9-10),  are  not  as 
| extensive  or  as  interesting  as  the  remarkable  Cacahuamilpa  Caverns  (de- 
F scribed  at  p.  454),  but  they  are  easy  of  access.  Explorations  are  in  progress 
and  some  of  the  new  salons  are  worth  seeing. 

The  traveller  interested  in  Mexico’s  wonderful  oil  development  may 
inspect  this  in  all  its  details  at  Tampico,  described  at  p.  48.  There  is  a 
frequent  and  good  train  service.  The  country  between  the  two  cities  is 
semi-tropical,  extraordinarily  rich,  and  unfailingly  picturesque.  Tampico 


MONTEREY 


6 Route  2. 


From,  Laredo 


itself  is  well  worth  a visit.  It  is  perhaps  destined  to  be  one  of  the  greatest 
cities  in  the  Republic,  if  not  in  Latin  America. 

Monterey  ( King's  Mountain ),  1,500  ft.  above  the  sea,  with  a 
population  of  about  100,000,  in  the  picturesque  and  fertile 
valley  of  the  Santa  Catarina  (St.  Catherine)  River  is  the  seat 
of  a bishop  and  formerly  was  the  largest  and  most  important 
city  in  northern  Mexico;  but  the  phenomenal  rise  of  Tampico, 
322  miles  southeast,  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  has  drawn  some  of 
its  industries  thither  and  slightly  checked  its  progress. 

The  city  is  almost  surrounded  by  mountains,  and  its  some- 
what peculiar  geographical  position  (about  200  M.  north  of  the  ! 
Tropic  of  Cancer)  gives  it  a variable  climate,  with  a tempera- ; 
ture  which  ranges  from  86°  Fahr.  in  summer  to  30°  in  the  short ; 
winter.  Light  snow-falls  mark  the  months  of  Jan.  and  Feb. 
Despite  somewhat  brusque  climatic  changes,  the  region  is 
healthy. 

Monterey  is  an  interesting,  bi-lingual  city,  essentially  i 
Mexican,  but  with  a foreign  aspect  which  reminds  one  of 
a Texas  frontier  city.  The  number  of  light,  wheeled  vehicles 
one  sees  in  the  streets  accentuates  this  impression.  The  in- 
habitants are  intelligent  and  progressive,  with  a good  local 
government  and  considerable  civic  pride.  Almost  as  much 
English  is  spoken  as  Spanish,  and  both  American  and  Mexican 
money  pass  current. 

Monterey’s  many  advantages  early  attracted  the  attention; 
of  Americans,  and  in  due  course  the  colonia  americana  became  i 
an  important  factor  in  the  city’s  life.  To-da}-  it  is  one  of  the! 
most  American  cities  in  the  Republic,  and  the  Mexicans  say  it; 
is  muy  americanizado  — much  Americanized. 

The  locality  first  appeared  in  history  about  1560,  at  which  time  the; 
conquering  Spaniards  were  marching  northward,  wresting  territory  from1 
the  Indians  and  establishing  outposts  and  missions  as  they  advanced.;  i 
When  these  conquist  adores  entered  the  region  hereabout,  Francisco  de 
Urdinola,  captain  of  the  expedition,  called  it  El  Nuevo  Reino  de  LeonA 
(new  kingdom  of  Leon  — lion)  after  the  Spanish  Province  of  that  name. 
It  was  sparsely  settled  by  nomad  savages  who  lived  by  the  chase.  As  the 
new  territory  was  of  great  promise  it  was  quickly  settled  by  Spanish  ad- 
venturers who  had  crowded  to  Mexico  City  to  there  await  news  of  new 
conquests  of  land  or  the  location  of  rich  mines.  In  1579  Felipe  II  ap- 
pointed Don  Luis  Carbajal  y de  la  Cueva  Governor  of  the  Province,  the 
principal  Spanish  settlement  of  which  was  the  pueblo  of  Santa  Lucia.  In  ■ 
1585  the  name  of  this  outpost  was  changed  to  Ciudad  de  Leon , and  in 
1 596  Don  Caspar  de  Zuniga  y Acevedo,  Count  of  Monterey,  then  \ iceroy 
(9th)  of  New  Spain,  named  it  La  Ciudad  Metropolitano  de  Nuestra  Sefiorc 
de  Monterey  — the  metropolitan  city  of  Our  Lady  of  M.  It  was  for  long;  i 
a frontier  post  of  the  advancing  civilization. 

The  finest  building  in  the  city  is  the  new  Palacio  de  Go- 
bierno,  on  the  Plaza  Cinco  de  Mayo  (PI.  E,  3),  completed! 
in  1908  at  a cost  of  one  million  pesos.  The  red  sandstone 
used  in  the  8 fluted  Composite  pillars  and  pilasters  of  the  peri- 
style and  in  the  ornamentation  of  the  facade  is  from  quarries! 
near  San  Luis  Potosf.  In  the  centre  of  the  plaza  is  a noble 
monument  to  Benito  Juarez,  with  commemorative  tablets 


to  San  Luis  Potosi. 


MONTEREY 


2.  Route.  7 


advising  that  the  “State  of  Nuevo  Leon  erected  it  in  1906 
to  celebrate  the  one  hundredth  anniversary  of  his  birth 
that  “he  saved  the  Constitution  in  1857 “dictated  the 
Reform  Laws  in  1859”;  and  “safe-guarded  the  country 
during  the  foreign  intervention  of  1862  and  1867.”  The 
allegory  of  a little  child  leading  a lion  by  a wreath  of  flowers 
is  very  striking.  The  six  stained-glass  windows  of  the  portico 
are  the  work  of  the  house  of  Pellandini,  of  Mex.  City.  View- 
ing these  from  the  inside  of  the  building,  the  first  on  the  r. 
is  Benito  Juarez;  2d,  General  Zaragoza  (the  hero  of  the  battle 
of  Puebla,  p.510) ; 3d,  General  Juan  Zuazua , one-time  governor 
of  Nuevo  Leon  and  a hero  in  the  War  of  the  Reform.  The  1st 
on  the  1.  is  Miguel  Hidalgo  y Costilla , fugleman  of  Mexican  Inde- 
pendence; 2d,  General  Escobedo , 3d,  Padre  Mier,  both*  promi- 
nent figures  in  the  history  of  the  State.  No  permit  is  necessary 
to  inspect  the  building.  In  an  ante  sala  of  the  upper  floor 
is  a glass  case  containing  three  old  guns  of  the  Nuevo  Leon 
battalion  which  were  employed  in  giving  the  tiro  de  gracia 
to  the  Emperor  Maximilian,  and  Generals  Miramon  and 
Mejia  at  Queretaro  (see  p.  ccxxxi).  Each  fusil  is  marked  with 
the  name  of  the  soldier  and  that  of  the  man  shot  with  it. 
An  old  standard  of  the  2d  Battalion  of  the  Mexican  Empire 
under  Maximilian  hangs  in  the  case.  The  painting  of  General 
Don  Porfirio  Diaz  is  the  work  of  A.  Vargas,  in  1898.  The 
sculptured  woodwork  in  the  large  Salon  de  Recepcion  is  by 
Mexican  artisans.  The  faded  allegorical  scenes  in  the  ceiling 
are  the  work  of  Guerini,  an  Italian  painter. 

From  the  front  windows  of  the  upper  story  the  Sierra 
Madre  Range  is  seen  to  fine  advantage  as  it  stands  out  boldly 
against  the  sky.  At  the  crest  of  the  nearest  foothills  is  the 
one-time  residence,  called  Mirador , of  the  State  Governor. 
The  views  of  the  bizarre  Saddle  Mountain  (so  called  because 
of  its  resemblance  to  a saddle)  on  the  E.,  and  the  odd  Mitre 
Mt.  ( la  mitra)  on  the  S.-W.,  behind  the  Obispado,  are  very 
attractive.  Another  Mt.,  Topo  Grande , is  visible  in  the  S . The 
semi-tropic  aspect  of  the  town,  with  its  occasional  palmetto, 
rising  above  the  tree-tops,  is  very  pleasing  to  Northern  eyes. 
The  old  church  (uninteresting)  immediately  back  of  the  palacio 
is  the  Sagrado  Corazon  de  Jesus. 

The  Cathedral,  a massive  structure  with  a single  tower, 
on  the  E.  side  of  the  Plaza  de  Zaragoza  (PI.  E,  4),  was  begun 
in  1630  but  remained  unfinished  till  1800,  and  it  was  not 
dedicated  until  July  4,  1833.  It  was  badly  damaged  during  the 
American  invasion  of  1846-47,  when  it  was  used  by  the  troops 
as  a powder  magazine  and  was  subjected  to  several  fierce 
bombardments.  The  austerity  of  its  construction  and  the 
paucity  of  works  of  art  in  the  interior  are  due  to  its  not 
having  had  rich  mines,  to  aid  in  its  support.  Its  distance 
from  Puebla  — long  the  centre  of  tile  (comp.  p.  lxxi)  pro- 


8 Route  2.  MONTEREY  From  Laredo  p 

duction  in  the  Crown  Colony  — accounts  for  the  absence  of 
those  decorative  features  which  lend  such  charm  to  other  J 
Mexican  churches.  The  cruciform  interior,  with  its  single  jA 
nave  and  two  lateral  aisles,  contains  nothing  to  interest  the  I 
traveller.  The  time-stained  Assumption  of  the  Virgin  above  I 
the  high  altar  is  an  indifferent  copy  of  Murillo's  celebrated  I 
painting  in  the  Guadalajara  Cathedral.  The  main  figure  of  I 
this  altar  is  a polychrome  statue  (of  Spanish  origin)  of  the  I 
Immaculate  Conception,  to  which  santa  the  ch.  is  dedicated.  I 
The  siller ia  at  the  1.  of  the  altar  is  not  worth  looking  at.  The  I 
choir  and  its  organ  occupy  the  left  transept.  The  sacristy  is  a 1 
bare  room  with  no  pictures  of  merit.  The  crudely  carved  facade  1 
exemplifies  a local  workman’s  idea  of  the  Baroque.  The  Cata-  I 
Ionian  belfry  above  the  modern  clock  is  a pleasing  reminder  1 
of  early  Mission  days,  but  the  tin  cockerel  which  surmounts  it  I 
and  acts  as  a weather-vane  is  a wholly  incongruous  addition.  1 
The  Bishop’s  residence  ( arzobispado ) adjoins  the  building  on  I 
the  S.  Flanking  the  Cathedral  on  the  N.  is  the  Casino  I 
de  Monterey  (PL  E,  4),  the  most  popular  of  the  city  clubs,  1 
with  sumptuous  interior  decorations,  and  a large  member-  I 
ship. 

The  old  Parochial  Church  of  San  Francisco,  one  block  S.  8 
of  the  plaza  (PL  D,  4),  is  the  most  interesting  architectural  I 
antique  in  the  city.  It  dates  from  1590  and  was  founded  I 
as  the  Parroquia  de  San  Francisco  with  San  Andres  as  its  1 
patron  saint.  It  is  the  oldest  of  the  city  churches  and  is  a I 
good  example  of  the  austere  but  sturdy  architecture  classi-  1 
fied  as  the  Early  Franciscan,  and  described  at  p.  cxxix.  Its  1 
quaint  interior,  which  opens  on  to  the  old  cloister,  is  worth  I 
inspecting.  Very  few  of  the  existing  Mexican  churches  retain  I 
the  curious  old  cross-beams,  in  the  ceiling,  that  are  features  1 
of  this  structure,  and  its  counterpart  at  Coyoacan  (p.  408).  I 
The  quaint  Latin  inscription  which  runs  the  length  of  the  1 
beam  supporting  the  organ-loft  refers  to  the  reconstruction  j 
of  the  entrance  ( Porta  coeli — door  of  Heaven)  in  1842. 

The  Basilica  Lateranenses  of  Nuestra  Senora  del  | 
Roble  (Our  Lady  of  the  Oak)  faces  the  Plaza  de  Zuazua  I 
(PL  D,  3),  in  the  N.  part  of  the  city  (tram-earmarked  Cuarteles  | 
or  Juarez,  5 c.),  and  has  for  its  patron  saint  (also  the  pro-  1 
tec  tress  of  the  city)  a much  venerated  image,  the  Virgen  i 
del  Roble , which  is  said  to  date  from  the  16th  cent,  and  j) 
which  derives  its  name  from  its  having  been  found  in  an 
oak  log  b}'  an  inquisitive  Indian.  The  ch.  dates  from  1S55.  f. 
and  owing  to  faulty  construction  its  roof  fell  in  on  the  night  < 
of  Oct.  24,  1905.  The  image,  a lightly  carved  piece  of  fragile 
wood,  was  found  buried  beneath  tons  of  rock,  uninjured,  I 
and  the  Indians  attribute  its  miraculous  preservation  to  \ 
the  intervention  of  Providence.  The  interior  of  the  ch.,  , 
now  repaired,  contains  nothing  to  interest  the  visitor.  Each 


to  San  Luis  Potosu  MONTEREY  2.  Route.  9 

of  the  seats  bears  a highly  polished  oval  metal  name  plate  — 
a practice  not  very  common  in  Mexico. 

The  finest  of  the  plazas  is  the  P.  Zaragoza  (PL  E,  4),  in  the 
centre  of  the  city,  and  round  which  clusters  the  commercial 
life  of  the  place.  It  is  a rose-crowned,  restful  spot,  and  dates 
from  the  time  when  the  Empress  Carlota  conceived  the  idea 
of  converting  the  then  stone-flagged,  dreary  plazas  into 
flower  gardens.  Music  in  the  kiosko  by  military  bands  on 
certain  evenings  and  Sundays. 

The  Palacio  Municipal  (PL  E,  4),  which  flanks  it  on  the 
W.  and  separates  it  from  the  contiguous  Plaza  de  Hidalgo 
(with  an  elongated  bronze  statue  to  this  patriot,  erected  by 
the  municipality  in  1893),  is  one  of  the  old  landmarks.  It 
was  reconstructed,  and  the  Arms  of  the  City  added,  in  1853. 

Other  plazas  are  La  Punsima  (with  an  uninteresting  ch. 
of  the  same  name),  the  highest  point  in  the  city  (PI.  C,  4), 
and  from  which  all  levels  are  taken ; the  Plaza  Juarez  (PI.  D,  3), 
Bolivar  (PI.  D,  4),  General  Zuazua  (PI.  D,  3),  5 de  Mayo 
(PL  D,  3),  Cuauhtemoc  (PL  C,  4),  Colon  (PL  D,  4),  Colegio  Civil 
(PL  D,  3),  Plaza  de  Armas  (PLC,  2),  P.  de  Oaxaca  (PL  E,  2),  etc. 

The  Alameda  Porfirio  Diaz  (PL  C,  3),  a wide  garden 
flanked  by  the  Penitentiary  (PL  C,  3),  is  the  most  fashion- 
able promenade.  Not  far  from  this  (N.-W.)  is  the  (comp.  p. 
xcvii)  Bull  Ring  (PL  C,  3). 

The  city  contains  a number  of  Protestant  churches,  the 
Baptist;  Methodist;  Presbyterian,  and  whatnot:  cards 
giving  hours  of  services  and  other  information  are  generally 
to  be  found  hanging  in  the  hotel  lobbies. 

El  Obispado  Viejo  (Bishop’s  old  palace)  on  the  crest  of 
Chepe  Vera  Hill  (PL  A,  4),  in  the  S.-W.  suburb  (take  Obis- 
pado tram-car  to  foot  of  hill),  was  constructed  by  the  order 
of  Bishop  Verger  in  1785,  but  was  abandoned  on  his  death  in 
1790.  The  fine  garden  which  once  adorned  the  crest  of  the 
hill  is  now  in  ruins.  The  tawdry,  ruinous  little  chapel  is 
interesting  only  because  of  its  historic  associations  and  for 
the  fine  views:  it  should  be  visited  if  only  for  the  sake  of  the 
panorama  of  Monterey,  the  Saddle  Mountain  and  the  en- 
virons obtainable  there.  With  the  sequestration  of  ch.  pro- 
perty the  chapel  was  converted  into  a barrack;  only  the 
care-taker  (no  fees)  lives  there  now.  The  possession  of  the 
hill  was  hotly  contested  by  the  Mexicans  and  the  invading 
American  army  in  1847.  Its  capture  and  the  storming  of  the 
city  was  one  of  the  most  tragic  events  in  its  history. 

Excursions:  To  the  Garcia  Caves  ( cavernas ) 21  M.  distant 
over  the  Mex.  Nat.  Rly.  (1st  cl.  $1.10),  whose  station  is  some 
2 M.  from  Garcia  village.  Vehicles  can  be  had  at  the  town  for 
the  trip  to  the  cuevas,  2 M.  away.  Horse,  for  the  round  trip, 
$2.50;  a country  carriage  that  will  seat  4 persons,  $5.  Some 
kind  of  a guide  is  necessary;  $2  to  $5  according  to  the  number 


10  Route  2. 


MONTEREY 


From  Laredo 


in  the  party.  Bargaining  necessary.  Prices  are  apt  to  change 
with  the  demand.  The  caves  are  sometimes  referred  to  as 
Caver  nos  de  Pesqueria. 

The  road  leads  through  maguey  fields  ( magueyales ) across 
a fair  valley  (called  the  Potrero ) to  the  foothills.  The  en- 
trance, reached  by  a zigzag  path,  is  halfway  up  the  side  of 
a tall  cerro.  The  guide  furnishes  lights.  We  enter  a vast 
chamber  called  El  Tedtro.  because  of  a fanciful  resemblance 
of  the  stalactite  formation  to  the  balconies  of  a huge  theatre. 
By  crossing  a rock-strewn  floor  which  arches  above  a lower 
cave,  and  which  rings  to  the  footsteps,  we  reach  the  adjacent 
room,  with  a maze  of  stalagmites  resembling  cyclopean 
columns.  The  Sala  de  los  Balcones  (balconies)  is  of  immense 
height,  grandiose  and  gloomy.  We  descend  a narrow  stair 
formed  by  the  rocks,  wind  through  clusters  of  columns,  thread 
a dark  and  weird  passageway  and  enter  the  Cavern  of  the 
Clouds  — Caverna  de  las  nubes.  The  bright  sunlight  filters 
through  thin,  semi-transparent  sections  of  gypsum  in  the  roof 
of  the  cave,  and,  mingling  with  the  interior  gloom,  produces 
a hazy,  cloud-like  effect  that  is  very  curious.  We  now  pass  into 
the  Chamber  of  the  Bells  (Sala  de  las  Campanas), where  every 
stalagmite  and  stalactite  gives  a clear,  ringing  sound  when 
struck,  producing  the  effect  of  chapel  bells.  Through  a hole 
in  the  roof  of  the  Sala  de  la  Luz  (Chamber  of  Light)  beams 
of  sunlight  fall  athwart  the  floor  and  produce  a beautiful 
effect. 

Further  along  is  the  Bishop’s  Palace,  a room  containing 
a pure-white,  altar-like  formation,  a stalagmite  resembling 
a human  figure,  and  many  slender  stalactites,  like  organ- 
pipes.  Beyond  this  is  murcielago,  or  bat  cavern,  a dark, 
stuffy,  ill-smelling  place  alive  with  bats.  We  pass  a stairway 
called  El  Caracol  (snail) ; the  Sala  del  Lago,  with  a pool 
of  cool  water;  a dainty  sala  called  the  Girl’s  Room  where  the 
walls  are  a pure  white  tinged  with  pink ; and  on  to  the  Room  I 
of  the  Broken  Heart,  so  called  from  a heart-shaped  forma- 
tion therein.  Beyond  is  the  edge  of  exploration.  In  the 
darkness  lie,  perchance,  many  undiscovered  passages  and  j 
salas.  No  one  knows  the  length  or  depth  of  the  caves. 

Topo  Chico  Hot  Springs  (7  kiloms.  to  the  N.-W.  fromj; 
the  main  plaza,  see  tranvias,  p.  5),  the  origin  of  an  excellent  \ 
mineral  water  bottled  under  the  name  of  Topo  Chico,  is  a 
popular  bathing  resort  (baths  25  and  50  c.),  and  forms  a 
short  and  pleasant  excursion.  The  springs  and  bath-house  : 
are  immediately  opposite  the  shaded  plaza — 'the  terminus 
of  the  tram-line.  The  water  bubbles  violently  hot  from  the  I 
earth  at  a temperature  of  about  104°-110°  Fahrenheit.  Tt  is  I 
said  to  be  efficacious  in  rheumatic  ailments.  Hard  bv  the  j 
springs  is  the  Hotel  Marble  (constructed  of  a mottled  marble ■ 
found  in  the  vicinity) ; $2  to  $5  Am.  PI. 


to  San  Luis  Potosi . NUEVO  LEON 


8.  Route.  11 


The  State  of  Nuevo  Leon,  one  of  the  richest  and  most  pro- 
gressive of  the  Mexican  Estados  del  Norte , with  a pop.  of 
400,000  and  an  area  of  62,998  sqr.  kiloms.,  is  bounded  on  the 
North,  W.  and  N.-W.  by  Coahuila,  on  the  S.  and  S.-W.  by 
San  Luis  Potosi  and  on  the  N.-E.,  East  and  S.-E.  by  Ta- 
maulipas,  and  occupies  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Great  Central 
Plateau,  extending  in  a north-easterly  direction.  For  political 
reasons  it  is  divided  in  28  municip alidades,  most  of  them  named 
in  honor  of  military  heroes.  The  capital,  Monterey,  is  in  the 
Division  del  Centro. 

The  Climate  varies  with  the  altitude,  but  is,  in  general, 
temperate  and  healthy.  Extreme  heat  is  sometimes  felt  in 
the  lowlands  of  the  N.  and  E.  sections.  The  Sierra  Madre 
Mountains  traverse  the  state  at  a mean  elevation  of  5,600  ft. 
and  culminate  in  the  Pico  de  Potosi , which  is  snow-covered 
during  a part  of  the  short  winter.  Twelve  rivers  and  100 
or  more  confluents,  none  of  which  are  navigable,  irrigate 
the  state.  The  largest,  El  Rio  Salado  (Salt  River),  produces 
fine  fish  and  pearl-bearing  oysters  (comp.  p.  87). 

Medicinal  Springs  abound;  chief  among  them  being 
Topo  Chico,  referred  to  at  p.  10.  Less  important  springs  are 
San  Ignacio  (near  Linares) ; Potrero  Prieto  (near  Galeana)  ; 
La  Boca  (a  few  miles  E.  of  Santiago  Guayuco);  and  Huertas, 
25  kiloms.  to  the  S.  of  Montemorelos. 

The  Fauna  and  Flora  are  very  extensive:  the  former 
includes  mountain-lions,  tiger-leopards,  wild-cats,  wild-boars, 
wolves  and  many  minor  animals  (comp.  p.  Ixxvii).  Splendid 
birds  and  pheasants  haunt  the  wooded  regions,  and  ducks 
and  other  aquatic  fowl  winter  and  breed  in  the  marshes. 
Bream,  cat-fish,  eels,  and  shrimps  abound  in  some  of  the 
rivers.  Cattle-  and  fruit-raising  are  growing  industries. 

3.  From  Monterey  to  Tampico. 

322  M.  One  train  daily  in  14  hrs.  Fare  (see  p.  xxxi).  Trains  leave  from 
the  Union  National  Station.  The  route  is  a continuation  of  that  from 
lorreon  (see  p.  36)  referred  to  in  the  rly.  guides  as  Division  de  Monterey. 

Monterey,  see  p.  5.  Owing  to  the  absence  of  high  moun- 
jtains  the  line  lacks  the  picturesque  features  characteristic 
}f  many  Mex.  railways.  It  traverses  a rolling  country  (of 
igreat  agricultural  possibilities),  which  slopes  gently  to  the 
3oast.  The  first  town  of  importance  is  59  M.  Montemorelos , in 

ffine  fruit-growing  district.  The  oranges  produced  here  are 
oted  for  their  sweetness,  and  some  200  carloads  are  shipped 
annually  to  the  cities  of  the  highland  and  to  points  in  the 
U.S.  A.  Further  down  the  line  the  country  is  devoted  to 
stock-raising  and  agriculture.  Considerable  corn,  sugar-cane, 
pecan-nuts  and  cacti  fibre  are  produced. 

176  M.  Victoria  (1,473  ft.),  capital  of  the  State  of  Tamauli- 


12  Rte.  J.  BROWNSVILLE-MATAMOROS  From  Laredo 


pas,  with  a population  of  about  10,000,  lies  in  a region  where 
frosts  are  practically  unknown.  322  M.  Tampico,  see  p.  48. 

From  Matamoros  and  Brownsville  to  Monterey. 

( Tampico , Mexico  City,  etc.) 

To  Monterey,  331  K.  in  about  12  hrs.  Frequent  trains;  good  service.  For 
fares,  see  p.  xxxi.  The  Railway  (Matamoros  Division  of  the  National  Rlys. 
of  Mexico)  connects  at  the  border  ( Rio  Grande,  22  M.  from  its  mouth,  at  the 
Gulf)  with  trains  on  the  Gulf  Coast  Lines  (via  Corpus  Christi,  Houston, 
Galveston,  Beaumont,  etc.)  to  New  Orleans  (thence  to  all  points  in  the 
east  of  the  U.  S.  A.)  — Shortest  route  between  New  York,  Boston,  Wash- 
ington, etc.  and  Monterey,  Tampico,  Mexico  City.  Through  Pullmans 
and  Club  Cafe  Cars  between  Houston  and  Mexican  points,  with  connecting 
sleeping-car  service  from  New  Orleans  (and  the  East)  to  the  Mex.  border. 

The  Gulf  Coast  Lines  Passenger  Station  (and  the  business  section  of 
Brownsville  — hotels  Miller,  Travelers;  rooms  SI  to  S3  a day,  Amer. 
money;  several  good  restaurants  close  bv)  is  about  1 block  from  the  River 
(spanned  by  a fine  steel  bridge,  cost  half-million  dollars).  Representatives 
board  incoming  trains  and  help  passengers  (free)  through  the  custom-house 
(lenient;  formalities  similar  to  those  at  Laredo,  p.  1),  to  purchase  tickets, 
make  connections,  etc.  A cheap  and  efficient  auto  service  operates  (across 
the  bridge)  between  the  two  cities.  A Ferry-boat  service  also  operates  to 
the  Mexican  side  and  connects  there  with  a tramline  (2  M.  to  Matamoros 
centre). 

Brownsville  fpop.  23,000),  one  of  the  most  attractive  of  the  Texas  cities, 
is  the  metropolis  for  the  fine  (and  immensely  rich  and  productive)  Lower 
RlO  Grande  Valley,  noted  for  delicious  fruits  (oranges,  grapefruit,  lemons) 
and  vegetables  (about  1,500  carloads  shipped  each  year),  and  for  its  equable 
climate. 

From  Matamoros  the  Railway  traverses  a picturesque  coun- 
try similar  to  that  between  Laredo  and  Monterey. 

Monterey,  see  p.  5.  The  line  winds  across  a fine  agricultural 
country.  The  towns  call  for  no  special  mention.  234  M.  j 
Saltillo,  see  below.  For  a continuation  of  the  journey  from 
Laredo  to  San  Luis  Potosi  and  Mexico  City,  see  p.  15. 

4.  Saltillo. 

Arrival.  The  hotels  cluster  near  the  Plaza  de  la  Independencia , within  ; 
easy  walking  distance  of  the  station. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  Gran  Hotel,  Calle  Iturbide;  Hotel  America , ; 
Calles  Aldama  v Acuna:  Hotel  Hidalgo,  Calle  Padre  Flores;  Hotel  Uni - ) 
versed,  Calles  Hidalgo  y Galeana.  Rooms  from  S2  a day  and  up.  Meals  a 
la  carta.  Arrangements  can  be  made  for  room  and  board,  on  the  American  j 
Plan.  The  Hotel  Tomasichi,  in  the  Calle  Victoria,  is  somewhat  cheaper. 

Taxis  and  Cabs  meet  trains.  Rates  $2.50  an  hr.;  $1.50  for  a half  hour  or 
less. 

Banks.  Banco  de  Coahuila;  Purcel  y Co.  Suers. 

Moving  Pictures  in  the  Teatro  Obrcro,  and  the  Salon  Apolo.  (Circuito  Ij 
Olimpia  films). 

Post-  and  Telegraph-Office  in  the  Calle  Victoria. 

Saltillo  (Little  Falls),  capital  of  the  State  of  Coahuila j{ 
(5,000  ft.),  with  a pop.  of  40,000,  on  the  slope  of  a table-land)  j 
called  Ojo  de  Agua,  is  the  chief  commercial  and  industrial  city:  * 
in  the  state  and  the  favorite  health  resort  of  the  inhabitants  of  j j 
near-by  towns.  It  came  into  history  in  July,  1575,  when  it  wasi 
founded  by  Spanish  adventurers  under  Captain  Franciscoli 
Urdihola,  who  penetrated  the  region  from  the  adjacent  State  j 
of  Durango.  A tribe  of  nomad  savages  occupied  the  site  of  the 


to  San  Luis  Potosi . 


SALTILLO 


4.  Route . 13 


present  town,  whose  fine  situation  aroused  the  cupidity  of  the 
invaders,  who  fought  several  fierce  battles  for  its  possession. 
The  Indians  were  finally  driven  off,  but  the  Spanish  forces  were 
constantly  threatened  with  destruction  until  the  Viceroy  at 
Mexico  City  sent  a number  of  Tlascalan  families  to  settle  in  the 
region  and  ensure  its  safety. 

& The  place  is  known  legally  as  Leona  Vicario , and  was  so 
called  because  this  famous  heroine  (a  sort  of  Jeanne  d'Arc)  of 
the  War  for  Independence  was  born  here.  It  was  also  the 
birthplace  of  an  unfortunate  Mexican  poet,  Manuel  de  Acuna, 
who  charmed  the  people  by  his  exquisite  lyrics  and  who 
committed  suicide  (comp.  p.  clx)  when  still  young  because 
of  a disappointment  in  love.  General  Ignacio  Zaragoza  (who 
won  the  battle  of  Puebla  May  5,  1862)  was  also  born  here, 
and  in  his  honor  the  State  of  Coahuila  is  known  as  E.  de 
Zaragoza.  The  city  is  celebrated  for  fine  wool  sarapes  (shawls) 
of  splendid  texture  and  quality,  remarkable  for  fast  colors 
and  artistic  designs.  The  older  ones  (made  a century  or 
more  ago)  are  the  most  desirable  and  these  usually  find  their 
way  to  the  best  antique  shops  of  Mexico  City."  The  finer 
specimens  (very  rare)  cost  a hundred  pesos  or  more,  and 
they  make  very  desirable  souvenirs.  The  output  of  the 
present  factories  (conducted  on  a very  small  scale)  is  not 
equal  to  the  older  product,  and  those  offered  for  sale  in  the 
streets  and  at  the  rJy.  stations  are  apt  to  be  inferior  in  quality 
and  high  in  price. 

During  Oct.  of  each  year  a great  fiesta  or  fair  ( feria ) is 
held  here;  booths  are  erected  in  the  plazas , gambling  games 
are  set  in  motion,  many  picturesque  country  Indians  come 
into  town  and  interesting  curios  and  home-made  wares  are 
sometimes  to  be  bought  of  them.  During  this  time  hotel 
lodgings  are  apt  to  be  scarce  and  they  should  be  spoken  for 
in  advance.  Bull  fights  (comp.  p.  xcvii)  are  features  of  this 
feria  and  the  fighters  are  usually  recruited  from  the  local 
aficionados. 

The  chief  buildings  are  the  Palacio  de  Gobierno  (PI.  C,  3), 
the  Cathedral  (PI.  D,  3),  a fine  Theatre  (PI.  C,  3),  a State 
College  with  a public  library  and  a good  local  museum, 
snd  an  attractive  Casino  (PI.  C,  3),  or  club-house.  The 
barque  Porfirio  Diaz  (PI.  B,  3)  and  P.  Zaragoza  (PI.  D.  3) 
are  the  favorite  promenades. 

is  connected  with  Torreon  (p.  35)  by  the  Ferrocarril  Coa- 
‘i\  ^^?rfICO  G tram  daily  in  10  hrs.,  fare,  see  p.  xxxi;  see  the  Guia 
'Wal),  which  passes  through  160  K.  Parras , and  runs  thence  to  307  K. 
^rreon  across  a nondescript  country. 

trair?  u KRR?C,ARRIL  Coahuila  y Zacatecas  runs  a daily  (except  Sunday) 

am  Hence  (through  several  unimportant  towns)  to  78  M.  Concepcion. 

The  State  of  Coahuila,  third  largest  of  the  Mexican  States 
and  one  of  the  most  fertile,  with  a population  of  297,000  and 


14  Route  4.  COAHUILA  From  Laredo  \ 


an  area  of  161,550  square  kiloms.,  was  once  a stronghold 
of  the  dreaded  Apache  Indians  and  by  them  was  known  as 
Cuachichile . The  Indian  lords  of  the  region  first  appeared  I 
in  history  in  1554  when  the  Viceroy  Luts  de  Velasco  sent  4 
various  expeditions  under  the  captains  Francisco  de  Ibarra,  I 
Juan  de  Tolsa , and  Alonso  Pacheco  against  them.  The  savage  / 
and  nomad  tribes  had  never  bowed  beneath  any  yoke  and! 
it  was  not  until  1575  that  Francisco  de  Urdifiola  succeeded 
in  establishing  a fort  at  Saltillo:  the  region  was  thereafter 
called  Nueva  Extremadura,  after  the  Spanish  province  of 
that  name.  In  due  course  various  towns  were  founded  and} 
the  district  was  definitely  added  to  the  Spanish  Crown  posses- 
sions. Until  1788  Saltillo  and  Parras  formed  a part  of  the 
contiguous  State  of  Durango  (see  p.  102),  then  ca  led  Aueva 
Vizcaya.  In  due  course  Coahuila  secured  its  independence 
and  the  capital  was  removed  from  Villa  Monclov a to  the 
Antigua  Villa  de  Saltillo,  which  town  attained  to  the  rank 
of  ciudad,  under  the  name  of  Leona  Vicario,  Nov.  5,  182/ 
By  the  terms  of  the  Constitution  of  1824  the  present  Ameri- 
can State  of  Texas  and  Coahuila  were  formed  into  a single 
state  under  the  latter  name.  In  the  war  between  Hex.  anc 
the  United  States  (1848)  Coahuila  lost  a large  section  of  its 
territorv,  and  on  Feb.  5,  1857,  the  remainder  was  fused  witt 
the  adjoining  State  of  Nuevo  Leon.  In  1864  the  Congreso  dele 
Union  declared  Coahuila  a Free  and  Sovereign  State  of  tin 


Mexican  Republic. 

The  boundaries  of  the  state  are:  on  the  N.  the  U.  S.  A. 
from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  Rio  Grande;  on  the  E.  th 
State  of  Nuevo  Leon;  on  the  S.  San  Luis  Potosi  and  Zacateca^ 
on  the  S.-W.  and  W.  Durango,  and  on  the  N.-W.  and  W . th 
State  of  Chihuahua.  Like  most  of  the  Mexican  possession 
its  resources  are  practically  unlimited.  . . „ 

The  known  Fauna  includes  40  species  of  mammals, 
birds,  16  reptiles,  5 batrachians,  4 fishes,  and  almost  number 

less  insects.  . . r ...  r 

The  Flora  comprises  over  60  varieties  of  trees  mdigenou 
to  the  cold  and  temperate  regions,  and  50  belonging  to  tW 
tierra  caliente.  There  are  upward  of  40  varieties  of  fine  fruits 
chief  among  them  the  pomegranate,  chayote,  lime,  lemorj 
quince,  mulberry,  orange,  pear,  apple,  peach,  olive,  India  1 
fig  and  a wide  range  of  melons.  Grape1  culture  is  attainm 
great  importance  and  it  is  claimed  that  the  white  and  Pu.rP‘; 
grapes  of  the  Parras  region,  which  are  manufactured  mt 
wine,  raisins,  and  alcohol,  are  sweeter  and  more  delicioi 
than  those  of  California  and  are  the  equal,  if  not  the  superio 
of  the  Malaga  and  Granada  varieties.  There  are  a great  man 
plants:  15  textile,  13  tanning,  10  used  in  dyeing,  13  lorag 


1 The  U*a  (Viti*  Vinifern)  was  introduced  from  Spain.  Wild  grap 
( parras ) grow  in  many  parts  of  the  Republic. 


to  San  Luis  Potosi. 


COAHUILA 


1.  Route.  15 


17  poisonous,  and  70  medicinal  plants,  beside  10  oleaginous 
seeds,  12  gums  and  resins  and  over  100  varieties  of  orna- 
mental plants  and  flowers.  The  state  produces  large  quan- 
tities of  the  greasewood  plant  known  locally  as  guayute,  which 
is  used  in  the  manufacture  of  rubber.  Though  of  recent 
introduction  this  industry  promises  to  be  a source  of  con- 
siderable wealth. 

Cattle-raising  is  carried  on,  on  a large  scale.  The  common 
products  of  the  vast  haciendas  are  cotton,  corn,  wheat,  beans, 
sugar-cane  and  about  30  species  of  leguminous  plants. 

Mining  is  a growing  industry;  the  principal  minerals  found 
being  gold,  silver,  lead,  copper,  iron,  and  coal.  The  Sierra 
Mojada,  Sierra  del  Carmen  and  the  Santa  Rosa  regions  are 
very  highly  mineralized.  The  numerous  branches  of  the 
Sierra  Madre , in  the  southern  and  central  districts,  while 
being  rich  in  minerals  also  form  the  beautiful  valleys  of  Parras , 
Sohaco , Catarina , San  Isidro , San  Marcos , Alamo , Santa 
Rosa,  and  H undido.  In  the  S.-E.  lies  the  fine  agricultural 
region  known  as  the  Laguna  Country,  said  to  contain  the 
most  fertile  soil  in  the  Republic. 

The  Climate  in  certain  districts  is  delightful:  it  is  hot  in 
the  Rio  Grande  and  Monclova  regions,  temperate  in  Viesca, 
Parras,  and  Saltillo,  and  cold  in  the  mountains.  In  the 
lowlands  along  the  Rio  Grande  the  summer  is  hot  and  dry  but 
with  cool  nights.  Saltillo  is  the  sanitarium  for  many  of  the 
inhabitants  of  the  surrounding  towns,  and  is  fast  becoming 
a popular  resort.  Abundant  rainfalls  characterize  the  dis- 
tricts of  Saltillo  and  Viesca,  while  in  Parras  and  Monclova 
they  are  insufficient. 

The  most  important  towns  in  the  state  are  Torreon  (de- 
I scribed  at  p.  35),  Parras,  126  kiloms.  from  the  latter  place, 
on  the  International  Rly.;  Ciudad  Porjirio  Diaz  (formerly 
Piedras  Negras)  at  the  frontier,  and  Monclova  (on  the  Inter - 
■ national  Rly.),  238  kiloms.  S.-W.  of  C.  P.  Diaz . 

Saltillo,  seep.  12.  The  grade  slopes  steadily  upward  and  the 
line  winds  in  and  out  between  the  hills.  241  M.  Buena  Vista, 
the  scene  of  a sanguinary  and  decisive  battle  between  the 
American  soldiers  under  General  Taylor,  and  the  Mexicans 
under  General  Antonio  Lojpez  de  Santa  Anna,  in  1847. 

The  American  troops  engaged  numbered  4,691 ; the  Mexicans  23,000. 
The  former  lost  264  killed  and  450  wounded;  the  Mexicans  lost  2,500 
killed  and  wounded.  As  usual  the  bombastic  Santa  Anna  was  unpre- 
pared, and  the  appalling  sacrifice  of  brave  and  willing  men  was  but 
another  proof  of  his  inefficiency.  The  victory  virtually  ended  the  Amer- 
ican operations  in  Northern  Mexico  and  exercised  great  influence  on  the 
final  issue  of  the  American  invasion  of  the  Republic. 

Hence  to  258  M.  Carneros  the  grade  is  steepish  and  we  soon 
reach  a height  of  7,300  ft.,  which  is  almost  the  level  of  Mexico 
City.  Presently  the  line  seeks  lower  levels  and  we  pass  from 


16  Route  1. 


REAL  DE  CATORCE 


From  Laredo 


the  State  of  Coahuila  into  the  rich  mineral  State  of  San  Luis 
Fotosi  (p.  20).  We  pass  through  a number  of  unimportant 
settlements  (276  M.  Gomez  Farias;  302  M.  La  Ventura ; 324  j 
M.  El  Salado)  to  354  M.  Vanegas.  Rly.  restaurant;  meals 
SI.  Junction  of  the  branch  line  to  Matehuala  (consult  Guia  j 
O final) ; trains  leave  from  same  station. 

368  M.  Catorce,  point  of  departure  for  the  mining  town  | 
of  the  same  name  in  the  adjacent  hills.  The  station  is  about  | 
1 M.  from  the  foothills,  where  the  trail  begins. 

Real  de  Catorce.  about  14  kiloms.  from  the  railway  station,  is  poised  on  j 
the  slope  of  a precipitous  mountain  9.043  feet  above  sea-level,  in  the  \ 
centre  of  one  of  the  richest  silver-producing  regions  of  the  world.  It  has  a 1 
population  which  varies  from  about  6,000  when  the  mines  are  closed  to  I 
40,000  or  more  when  they  are  being  worked.  Travellers  to  Catorce  can  t 
usually  obtain  a horse  or  a mule  from  the  railway  station  agent,  or  some  [ 
friend  of  his.  The  journey  can  be  facilitated  by  having  the  train  conduc- 
tor telegraph  ahead  to  the  agent  asking  for  a horse  and  a muleteer  for 
the  trip.  The  mozo  who  accompanies  one  to  bring  the  animals  back  usu-  I 
ally  acts  as  guide.  A horse  for  the  trip  can  be  had  for  $1.50  or  $2  ac- 
cording to  the  demand.  Time  about  3 hrs.  A walker  with  good  lungs  and  j 
sinew  v legs  can  make  the  trip  in  about  the  same  time,  albeit  the  “going  " [ 
i.'  rather  - tiff,  and  the  steep  trail  is  trying  to  one  unaccustomed  to  cross- 
country tramping.  The  foothills  are  visible  from  the  station,  and  the 
trail  begins  its  sharp  ascent  directly  from  the  edge  of  the  plain. 

No  wheeled  vehicle  was  ever  seen  in  the  narrow,  precipitous  streets  of 
the  town,  and  good  hotels  are  just  as  scarce.  The  only  7 neson  (comp.  | 
p.  li)  is  that  of  Senor  Rafael  Salcido  ; rooms  $1.  In  the  absence  of  lodg- 
ings at  this  place  one  must  apply  to  the  manager  of  one  of  the  mining  com- 
panies, or  to  some  friend.  Food  must  be  sought  at  one  of  the  fondas  in 
the  town. 

A Campania  de  Traninas  operates  tram-cars  (fare  10  c.)  between  the  | 
lower  edge  of  Catorce  to  the  Santa  Anna  mine,  passing  the  Mina  Dolores  1 
Trumueta.  The  region  roundabout  is  fairly  bursting  with  mineral  wealth, 
arid  there  are  many  mines.  Catorce  (fourteen)  derives  its  name  from  14 
infamous  outlaws  who  once  infested  the  region. 

Between  the  stations  of  374  M.  Wadley  and  383  M.  3/a- 
roma is  a stone  shaft  which  marks  the  imaginary  Tropic  of 
('oncer.  The  country  is  one  of  cacti  and  broad  views.  The  rails 
traverse  a wide  plateau,  crossed  at  intervals  by  stone  fences  | 
miles  in  length  and  which  sometimes  lead  over  and  disappear- 
beyond  the  summits  of  the  adjacent  hills.  Many  tall  Spanish- 
bayonets.  400  M.  Laguna  Seca.  410  M . Los  Char  cos.  Point 
of  departure  for  the  branch  line  ( F . C.  Central  de  Potosi)  to 
the  town  of  10  K.  Charcas.  We  continue  to  traverse  a level 
plateau.  421  M.  Venado.  432  M.  Modezuma. 

The  vistas  across  the  wide,  cacti-sprinkled  desert  to  the  distant  brown  I 
and  blue  hills,  flecked  with  cloud  shadows,  are  never  without  interest.! 
The  very  baldness  of  the  land  is  attractive  and  suggests  a sort  of  austere! 
majesty.  The  ability  of  the  brown  men  w’ho  inhabit  it  to  draw  susten-| 
ance  from  its  meagre  store  of  plant  life  is  in  itself  a striking  lesson  in  hu-| 
man  adaptability  to  environment.  If  one  finds  one’s  self  pitying  those! 
forced  by  kismet  or  economic  conditions  to  dwell  in  these  silent,  jejune! 
places  of  the  earth,  one  may  like  to  remember  that  the  purity  of  the  desert! 
air  is  unquestioned,  and  that  herein  lies  Nature’s  compensation  to  its fj 
children;  for  of  the  700  or  more  centenarians  discovered  by  the  census^ 
takers  of  1900  the  greater  number  lived  in  just  such  places  and  found ij 
their  lives  prolonged  thereby.  The  most  casual  observer  of  Mexican  life  j{ 


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to  San  Luis  Potosi.  SAN  LUIS  POTOSI 


5.  Route.  17 


will  have  noted  that  the  country  native  is,  as  a rule,  vastly  superior  phys- 
ically to  his  city  brother.  The  open-air  life,  the  oftentimes  meagre  diet 
and  the  absence  of  doubtful  luxuries  and  of  crowding,  makes  the  hacen- 
dado  or  plainsman  of  the  highlands  strong,  wiry  and  enduring.  At  certain 
of  the  wrayside  places  one  sees  grizzled  men  of  70  or  SO  years  on  horseback 
and  sitting  their  animals  with  the  confidence  and  dashing  poise  of  young- 
sters, The  desert  siroccos  may  parch  them  and  dry  their  skin  , but  they 
do  not  appear  to  sap  their  amazing  vitality.  The  desert  dust  is  usually 
undefiled,  and  is  as  pure  as  non-microbic,  ozone-laden  dust  can  be. 

450  M.  Bocas , in  a tree-dotted  valley  with  a diminutive 
town  and  a quaint  old  church  with  twin  towers  and  a poly- 
chrome tile-covered  dome.  The  valley  widens ; the  hills  which 
bound  it  on  the  E.  and  W.  are  within  the  San  Luis  Potosi 
radius  and  are  noted  for  their  great  mineral  wealth.  The 
tall  chimney  of  an  occasional  smelter  is  seen  at  the  base  of 
the  foothills.  The  mesquite-covered  plains  need  only  water 
and  care  to  become  highly  productive.  We  pass  a number 
of  primitive  adobe  brick-yards  and  soon  come  to  the  large 
stone  station  of  476  M.  San  Luis  Potosi.  (See  below.) 

From  San  Luis  Potosi  to  Queretaro  and  Mexico  City , see 
Rte.  28,  p.  104. 

5.  San  Luis  Potosi. 

The  Railway  Station  ( estacion  del  f err ocarril)  is  at  theW.  edge  of  the  city, 
within  5 min.  walk  of  the  plaza  and  the  commercial  centre. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  Hotel  Progreso;  Hotel  Comercio;  Hotel  Europa; 
Hotel  Saenz.  All  near  the  plaza.  Rates  from  $2  up,  per  day,  for  rooms 
only.  Arrangements  can  be  made  for  board  and  room  on  the  American  Plan, 
at  an  inclusive  charge. 

AutOS  and  Cabs  meet  trains.  Stands  in  various  parts  of  the  city.  Fares 
S2.50  an  hour;  $1.50  for  £ hour  or  less.  More  on  dias  de  fiesta  and  Sundays. 
Also  for  out-of-town  trips. 

Tramways  ( tranvias ) run  from  the  Rly.  Station  to  various  points  in  the 
city.  Good,  cheap  service. 

Banks.  Sehores  Deutz  Hermanos  are  correspondents  for  the  (American) 
Mexico  City  Banking  Corporation,  S.  A.  — The  Banco  Nacional  de  Mex- 
ico. For  others  see  the  directory. 

Post-  and  Telegraph-Offices  in  the  Calle  Morelos. 

Shops.  The  best  are  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Plaza  Hidalgo  and  on  the  nar- 
row arcade-like  Calle  Hidalgo,  which  runs  in  a northerly  direction  to  the 
Mercado.  Bargaining  is  necessary  in  most  of  them.  There  is  a dearth  of 
American  shops.  American  specialties  of  all  kinds  can  be  bought  to  better 
advantage  in  Mexico  City.  Likewise  curios  and  antiques. 

Sights  in  the  city  are  few.  San  Luis  is  slower  than  Monterey,  Tampico, 
and  others  of  the  Mexican  cities,  and  the  people  seem  to  lack  initiative. 
The  prosperity  of  the  city  operates  in  cycles  and  is  more  or  less  dependent 
upon  the  output  of  the  mines  in  the  district.  The  Churches  (see  pagesl8-19) 
are  interesting,  but  they  do  not  compare  with  those  of  Mexico  City,  Guad- 
alajara, and  other  places. 

The  Opals  sometimes  offered  for  sale  at  the  Rly.  Station  and  on  the 
streets  are  not  always  of  the  finest  grade.  The  vendors  will  usually  take 
much  less  than  they  ask. 

San  Luis  Potosi  (6,290  ft.),  one  of  the  chief  commercial 
cities  of  the  Republic,  a large  mining  centre,  with  a popula- 
tion of  62,000  ; the  seat  of  a bishop,  a city  of  many  tile- 
domed  churches,  and  the  metropolis  of  a number  of  very  rich 
silver-mines,  is  the  capital  of  the  state  of  the  same  name,  327 
miles  north  of  Mexico  City. 

History.  At  the  time  of  the  conquest  of  the  Valley  of 


18  Route  5. 


SAN  LUIS  POTOSI 


Cathedral . 


Mexico  the  district  now  known  as  San  Luis  Potosi  was  un- 
known to  — or  at  least  unconquered  by  — the  Aztecs.  ! 
When  Cort£s  had  subdued  Tenochtitlan  he  sent  several  expe- 
ditions northward  in  quest  of  territory  to  subdue.  Zacatecas  1 
and  its  fabulously  rich  mines  were  discovered  and  it  became  j 
necessary  to  maintain  communications  therewith.  A strong  ; 
expedition  was  therefore  sent  out  under  Captain  Martin  | 
Enriquez,  who  succeeded  in  reducing  Celaya  (p.  127)  and  ; 
Queretaro  (p.  109)  and  in  establishing  an  outpost  at  San  j 
Luis  de  la  Paz,  Guanajuato.  For  many  years  the  Indian  U 
owners  of  the  land  maintained  a stout  resistance  against  1 
the  invaders,  but  about  1589  General  Rodrigo  del  Rio  nego-  I 
tinted  a peace  treaty  wTith  them.  The  Franciscan  mission-  ^ 
aries  immediately  invaded  the  new  country,  and  a number  j 
of  missions  were  founded,  chief  among  them  that  of  San  | 
Luis.  In  1590  some  mines  of  astonishing  richness  w^ere  dis-  1 
covered  in  the  San  Pedro  Hills,  and  because  the  enormous  1 
production  of  gold  recalled  the  fabulously  productive  mines  H 
of  Potosi,  in  Bolivia,  the  new  town  was  named  San  Luis  I 
Potosi.  Its  original  site  was  in  the  San  Pedro  Hills,  12  miles  1 
from  its  present  location,  whence  it  was  moved  because  n 
of  a lack  of  potable  water. 

Hordes  of  gold-seeking  Spaniards  promptly  invaded  the  I 
territory  and  the  town  grew  rapidly.  The  first  building  I 
occupied  the  site  of  the  present  Jesuit  Church  of  La  Com-  I 
pania  de  Jesus , in  the  barrio  nuevo,  or  new  suburb.  The  | 
mines  were  worked  in  such  an  eager,  primitive  fashion  that  I 
some  of  them  began  to  cave  in,  and  in  1622  a mine  that  had  I 
produced  816,000,000  in  gold  ore  became  a ruin.  For  the  1 
next  half-century  San  Luis  Potosi  was  an  almost  deserted  I 
camp.  Other  mines  were  located  in  due  course,  and  in  1656  n 
the  place  had  regained  so  much  of  its  old  prestige  that  the  j 
Duke  of  Albuquerque  conferred  the  title  of  ciudad  upon  it  — ; 
a title  that  was  confirmed  by  Felipe  IV  in  1658.  Many  of  J 
the  churches  and  public  buildings  date  from  about  that  time.  I 

The  Cathedral,  formerly  la  parroquia,  on  the  E.  side  of  |< 
the  Plaza  Hidalgo  (PI.  C,  3),  occupies  the  site  of  the  first  1 
church  erected  in  the  region  in  1595.  The  primitive  structure  1 
(built  by  miners  who  had  found  wealth  in  the  San  Pedro  |l 
Hills)  was  destroyed  at  the  end  of  the  17th  cent.,  and  from  ji 
its  ruins  the  present  structure  arose.  It  was  completed  and  \i 
dedicated  in  1737  and  was  the  Parroquia  until  1853,  at  which 
time,  and  at  the  initiative  of  General  Antonio  Lopez  de  Santa  1 
Anna,  a bishopric  was  established  with  Don  Pedro  Barajas  | 
as  the  first  bishop.  The  brown-stone  tower  is  a three-storied  j: 
mass  of  intricate  carving  in  the  Baroque  style;  the  summit  li 
is  painted  in  imitation  of  tile-work.  The  awkward  lantern-  ji 
like  campanario , which  flanks  the  tower  and  rises  above  U 
the  main  entrance,  detracts  somewhat  from  the  symmetry  n 


SAN  LUIS  POTOSI 


5.  Route.  19 


of  the  edifice.  At  the  apex  of  the  buttresses  of  the  side  wall 
are  chiselled  figurines  of  santos.  “A  peculiar  trait  of  the 
ecclesiastical  architecture  of  the  city  is  the  eccentric  habit 
of  placing  the  ribs  of  the  dome,  as  a rule,  in  the  centre  of  the 
surface  divisions,  instead  of  at  the  angles.”  The  Latin  in- 
scription in  the  stone  medallion  above  the  W.  entrance  refers  to 
the  erection  of  the  See  by  Pope  Pius  IX.  The  marble  statues 
in  the  niches  of  the  fagade  are  modern,  as  is  also  the  clock. 

The  sumptuous  interior,  with  a single  nave  and  two  aisles, 
is  decorated  in  a medley  of  styles,  Byzantine,  Doric,  Gothic, 
and  whatnot.  According  to  the  tile  inset  in  the  floor  the 
reconstruction  of  the  interior  was  completed  March  12, 
1896.  The  silver-plated  candelabra  on  the  presbiterio , before 
the  high  altar,  are  relics  of  a time  when  the  ch.  possessed 
many  fine  pieces  of  massive  silver,  taken  from  the  San  Pedro 
mines.  The  silleria  is  unusually  plain  for  a Mexican  cathedral, 
and  is  in  sharp  contrast  to  the  somewhat  richly  carved 
organ  case  of  mellow-toned  wood.  The  tomb  in  the  W.  wall 
of  the  S.  aisle  is  that  of  Bishop  Ignacio  Montes  de  Oca  y 
Obregon.  The  bishop’s  palace  joins  the  Cathedral  on  the  N. 

From  an  architectural  view-point  the  most  interesting  of 
the  city  churches  is  that  of  Nuestra  Senora  del  Carmen 
(1  sqr.  E.  of  the  Cathedral),  in  the  Plaza  de  Morelos  (PI.  C,  3). 
The  fagade  is  one  of  the  most  elaborate  remaining  specimens 
of  the  Baroque  (comp.  p.  cxxxi)  in  the  Repub.  The  smaller 
portal,  which  faces  E.,  is  not  so  richly  carved  as  that  of  the 
W.  entrance.  The  domes,  covered  with  blue,  green,  yellow 
and  white  tiles  in  the  Mudejar  style  (p.  cxxxiv)  and  sur- 
mounted by  lanterns,  are  landmarks.  The  intricately  carved 
tower  on  the  N.  side  of  the  W.  fagade  is  surmounted  by  a 
blue  and  yellow  pyramid.  Many  pigeons  have  made  their 
nests  in  the  interstices  of  the  carvings  of  the  fagade.  The 
noisy  pumps  in  the  plaza  (which  supply  some  of  the  city 
water)  are  a detriment  to  the  repose  which  would  otherwise 
be  a marked  feature  of  the  elaborate  interior  — a splendid 
relic  of  former  days.  The  most  striking  features  of  this 
cruciform  interior,  with  clipped  transepts,  are  the  huge 
polychrome  reredos  (after  the  style  of  Churriguera , p.  cxxxn) 
attributed  to  the  celebrated  Celaya  architect  Eduardo  de 
Tresguerras  (see  p.  cliii).  Perhaps  the  finest  of  these  won- 
derfully intricate  productions  is  that  of  the  Altar  de  Animas 
Perpetuas,  in  the  N.  transept.  The  south-bound  traveller  will 
see  many  beautiful  examples  of  this  work  in  the  Cathedral 
and  certain  of  the  other  churches  at  Mexico  City.  The  paint- 
ings on  the  walls  are  of  no  particular  merit.  The  elaborately 
carved  pulpito  is  worth  looking  at.  Adjacent  to  the  ch.  on 
the  S.  is  the  new 

Teatro  de  la  Paz  (PL  C,  3),  completed  in  1889.  On  the 
W.  side  of  the  Jar  din  Guerrero  is  the  large 


20  Routed.  STATE  OF  SAN  LUIS  POTOSI 


Church  of  San  Francisco,  with  a striking  blue-and-white 
tiled  dome  in  the  Mudcjar  style.  The  ch.  dates  from  about 
1650;  a can  ed  stone  tablet  let  into  the  tower  wall  advises 
that  it  was  begun  in  1705  and  completed  in  1707,  while  a 
similar  tablet  lower  down  says  it  was  renovated  in  1799. 
The  interior,  in  the  shape  of  a Latin  cross,  contains  a number 
of  old  paintings,  chief  among  them  a good  Descent  from 
the  Cross,  by  Antonio  Torres.  There  are  several  unsigned 
pictures  in  the  organ  loft.  The  quaint  swinging  ship  of 
bevelled  glass,  that  hangs  in  the  crucero , is  a curious  adorn- 
ment for  a church. 

The  squat  Church  of  the  Tercer  Orden  de  San  Fran- 
cisco (PI.  13,  4),  at  the  S.  side  of  this  plaza , is  uninteresting. 

The  Iglesia  de  San  Jose,  facing  the  S.  side  of  the  Ala- 
meda, near  the  rly.  station  (PI.  D,  3),  is  an  old  foundation 
newly  renovated.  The  somewhat  attractive  interior  contains 
a number  of  highly  colored  modern  pictures  by  local  painters. 

The  old  San  Agustin  Church  (PI.  C,  4),  with  an  unusually 
tall  and  elaborately  carved  tower,  stands  at  the  W.  end  of  a 
deep  atrium  at  the  S.-VV.  terminus  of  the  Calle  de  San  Agustin. 
The  one-time  fine  old  interior  has  been  redecorated  and  has 
thus  lost  its  interest  for  travellers.  The  city  contains  a num- 
ber of  minor  churches,  none  of  which  will  repay  a visit. 

The  Plaza  de  Hidalgo,  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  contains 
some  fine  t rees  — the  resort  of  many  song-birds  — and  a music 
kiosk,  where  a good  military  band  may  be  heard  on  Sundays 
and  certain  evenings  of  the  week.  The  large  building  which 
flanks  this  plaza  on  the  S.  is  the  Palacio  del  Estado. 

The  Alameda  (PI.  D,  3),  between  the  railway  station  and 
the  centre  of  the  city,  contains  several  duck-ponds,  some 
broad  converging  walks,  and  a monument  to  the  patriot 
Mi'jucl  Hidalgo.  It  is  the  favorite  resort  of  the  Potosinos. 

The  opals  (p.  xci)  offered  for  sale  on  the  streets  and  at 
the  railway  station  may  or  may  not  be  of  the  finest  quality. 
Prudence  and  bargaining  are  necessary. 

The  Ferrocarril  Potosi  y Rio  Verde  runs  from  the  city 
toward  the  S.-E.  to  38  M.  Aguaeatcd. 

The  State  of  San  Luis  Potosi,  with  a population  of 
600, (XX)  and  an  area  of  65,5S6  sqr.  kiloms.,  is  bounded  on  the 
N . by  Coahuila , on  the  E.  by  Nuevo  Leon , Tamaulipas  and 
1 era  Cruz , on  the  S.-E.  by  Jalisco , on  the  S.  by  Hidalgo , Quere - 
taro , and  Guanajuato,  and  on  the  W.  by  Zacatecas.  The  Tropic 
of  Cancer  crosses  the  state  somewhat  to  the  S.  of  the  cele- 
brated Catorce  region  (p.  16).  The  tall  Sierra  Madre  Moun- 
tains are  ever  prominent  features  in  the  landscape  and  their 
brown  sides  are  pierced  by  many  rich  mines.  The  high  table- 
land which  forms  a part  of  the  western  and  central  portions 
of  the  state  constitutes  a segment  in  the  backbone  of  the 
Republic.  The  district  of  Catorce  is  noted  for  its  almost 


STATE  OF  SAN  LUIS  POTOSf  5.  Route.  2i 


exhaustless  riches.  Many  of  the  mines  of  the  state  have  been 
worked  for  centuries,  still  they  show  no  apparent  diminution 
in  the  ore-bearing  rock.  Gold,  silver,  lead,  and  copper  ores 
are  found  in  many  sections;  and  cinnabar  in  the  Santa  Maria 
del  Rio  and  the  Salinas  regions.  Of  the  valuable  salt  deposits, 
those  of  El  Pefion  Blanco  are  perhaps  the  richest,  with  from 
70  to  80%  of  chloride  of  sodium.  Stock-raising  is  on  the 
increase  and  it  produces  considerable  revenue. 

The  Climate  is  cold  in  the  mountainous  districts  and 
temperate  on  the  great  plateau.  Fine  forests  of  valuable 
woods  clothe  certain  of  the  mountain  slopes.  Where  irriga- 
tion is  practised  the  plains  are  very  productive. 


II.  NORTH-CENTRAL  MEXICO, 


6.  From  Ciudad  Juarez  (El  Paso)  via  Chihuahua,  Tor- 

reon,  and  Zacatecas  to  Aguascalientes  (Leon,  Silao, 
Irapuato,  Celaya,  Queretaro,  and  Mexico  City)  . 22 

El  Paso,  22. — Ciudad  Juarez,  23. 

7.  Chihuahua 25 

History  and  Character  of  the  City,  26.  — Chihuahua  State, 

29.  — Chihuahua  Dogs,  31.  — Apache  Indians,  31. — El 
Real  de  Santa  Eulalia . 32.  — Santa  Rosalia  Hot-Springs, 

32.  — Sierra  Mojada  Mining  Region,  34.  — From  Cone- 
jos to  Descubridora,  Mapimi,  and  La  Zanja,  34. 

8.  Torreon  35 

From  Torreon  to  Monterey,  thence  to  Tampico,  36. 

9.  Zacatecas 38 

Guadalupe,  42.  — Excursion  to  the  Ruins  of  Chicomoztoc 
(Los  Edificios),  42. — State  of  Zacatecas,  44.  — The 
Mining  Region  of  Tepezala,  45. 

10.  Aguascalientes 45 

State  of  Aguascalientes,  47. 

11.  From  Aguascalientes  to  Tampico  via  San  Luis  Potosi  48 

Tampico,  48.  Tarpon  Fishing,  49.  State  of  Tamaulipas,  50. 

12.  From  Ciudad  Juarez  (El  Paso)  to  Nuevas  Casas 

(irandes 51 

Hunting  Big  Game  in  the  Sierra  Madres,  53.  — The  Casas 
Granaes,  54. 

13.  From  Presidio  del  Norte  via  Chihuahua  to  Topolo- 

bampo 56 

The  Tarahumare  Indians,  57.  — The  Pima  Indians,  60.  — 

The  Tepehuanes,  60. — The  Tubar  Tribe,  60.  — The 
Barranca  de  Cobre,  61. 

14.  From  Chihuahua  to  Minaca 63 

15.  From  Jimenez  via  Parral  to  Rosario  . ....  63 

16.  Parral 64 

Parral  Mining  District.  67.  From  Parral  to  Minas  Nuevas,  67. 


El  Paso. 


NORTH-CENTRAL  MEXICO  6.  Route.  23 


6.  From  Ciudad  Juarez  (El  Paso ) via  Chihuahua, 
Torreon,  and  Zacatecas  to  Aguascalientes  (Leon, 
Silao , Irapuato , Celaya , Queretaro , cmcZ  Mexico 
City).  El  Paso  Route. 

From  El  Paso,  Texas,  Union  Depot,  to  Mexico  City  (1221  Miles  — 1971 
Kildmetros)  without  change  of  cars,  in  about  48  hrs.  For  fares,  see  p.  xxxi. 
The  Pullman  Co.  operates  a good  buffet  service  on  the  through  trains  and 
there  are  rly.  restaurants  at  proper  intervals  along  the  line.  Americans  will 
wish  to  travel  first  class,  as  the  2d  class  (comp.  p.  xxi)  cars  will  not  prove 
to  their  liking.  For  information  relating  to  stop-over  tickets,  round-trips, 
etc.,  consult  the  ticket  agent  at  El  Paso.  To  get  the  best  out  of  one’s  trip 
the  traveler  is  advised  to  secure  a Rly.  Folder,  a copy  of  the  Railway  Guide 
issued  by  the  Ferrocamles  A acionales  de  Mexico , or  of  the  Guia  Oficial. 

El  Paso  (the  pass),  Texas,  uses  Mountain  Time  (see  p.  xlviii)  which  is  the 
same  time  used  in  Mexico. 

Telegraph  -Office,  in  the  Union  Depot,  but  messages  for  Mexican  points 
can  be  sent  cheaper  at  the  oficina  of  the  Telegrafos  Federates , across  the 
Rio  Grande,  in  Ciudad  Juarez. 

The  Fred  Harvey  Dining  Room,  in  the  El  Paso  Union  Depot  provides 
good  food  at  reasonable  pi  ices.  Several  Hotels  lie  within  a few  min.  walk 
of  the  Union  Depot.  Tramcars.  Taxis,  etc. 

Hand- luggage  can  be  checked  in  the  Union  Depot,  at  the  Fred  Harvey 
Check  Stand;  where  fruit,  reading  matter,  candy,  etc.,  can  be  purchased. 
Money  can  also  be  exchanged.  The  exchange  usually  is  about  tw  o Mexican 
pesos  for  one  American  dollar.  Take  as  little  American  silver  into  Mexico 
as  possible,  as  it  is  discounted  there. 

Custom-House  Formalities.  Mexican  customs-officers  ( inspectors  de 
aduana ) board  the  train  at  the  El  Paso  Union  Depot  and  examine  hand- 
luggage  in  the  car  seats  w’hile  the  train  moves  across  the  international 
bridge  ( puente  international ) which  spans  the  Rio  Grande  del  Norte  (big 
river  of  the  North)  at  this  point.  Heavy  baggage  is  inspected  in  the  bag- 
gage-room ( cuarto  de  equipaje ) in  the  Ciudad  Juarez  station,  on  the  Mexi- 
can side.  The  examination  is  prompt,  courteous,  and  lenient.  Luggage 
is  transferred  into  the  inspection-room,  then  back  to  the  train  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  rly.  company.  Travellers  will  do  well  to  be  present  in  person 
during  the  inspection  of  their  trunks.  Ample  time  is  allowed.  Tourists 
with  a knowledge  of  Spanish  will  find  it  advantageous  to  hold  it  in  re- 
serve while  at  frontier  customs-houses,  as  visitors  to  the  Republic  are 
apt  to  be  accorded  more  liberal  treatment  than  residents.  Any  “ adjust- 
ments ” of  luggage  in  the  El  Paso  Union  Depot  are  apt  to  be  made  in 
view  of  some  vigilant  inspector.  Fees  are  not  expected  by  Mexican 
customs-officers  and  they  should  not  be  proffered.  A small  gratuity  (25  c. 
Mex.  is  ample)  to  the  mozo  who  shifts,  unlocks,  and  re-locks  trunks  in 
the  examination-room  is  customary,  and  is  always  received  gratefully. 

Ciudad  Juarez  (Judrez  city),  a famous  town  long  known  as 
Paso  del  Norte  (pass  of  the  North),  the  northern  terminus  of 
the  sometime  Mexican  Central  Railway  (the  first  railway  ever 
built  from  the  temperate  zone  down  into  the  tropics,  see  p.  37), 
is  3,117  feet  above  the  sea  level  (a  mile  lower  than  Mexico 
City)  and  is  linked  to  El  Paso,  Texas,  by  an  international 
bridge  ( puente ) across  which  street  cars  come  and  go.  There  is 
a customs  examination  at  each  end  of  the  bridge. 

To  the  traveller  arriving  from  Mexico,  Ciudad  Judrez  is 
nondescript  and  of  no  interest.  To  one  seeing  Mexico  for  the 
first  time  it  appears  quaint  and  picturesque.  It  is  the  antithe- 


24  Route  6. 


CIUDAD  JUAREZ 


From  El  Paso 


sis  of  El  Paso,  on  the  American  side,  yet  each  possesses  com- 
mendable qualities.  It  remains  with  the  traveller  to  decide 
which  he  prefers. 

To  Mexicans  Ciudad  Juarez  recalls  one  of  Mexico’s  greatest 
presidents.  About  £ of  a mile  to  the  left  of  the  Rly.  Station 
(of  the  Mexican  National  Lines),  a tall  monument  (erected  in 
1910)  commemorates  this  reformer  and  liberator.  The  tablets 
let  into  the  base  of  the  shaft  typify  scenes  in  the  life  of  the 
patriot.  The  4 life-size  marble  figures  are  symbolic  of  law, 
liberty,  etc.  A heroic  figure  in  bronze,  of  Juarez,  surmounts 
the  shaft. 

The  train  begins  its  long  run  and  climb  to  the  Mexican 
capital  (nearly  1£  M.  higher  than  El  Paso)  through  a region 
which  was  once  a neutral  zone  ( zona  libre),  celebrated  at  one 
time  for  its  gangs  of  smugglers  ( contrabandistas ) ; for  skirm- 
ishes between  “ bad  ” Mexicans  and  equally  obnoxious  Ameri- 
cans, and  for  bloody  Indian  raids  engineered  by  the  pitiless 
and  dreaded  Apache  chief  Geronimo.  The  plains  ( llanos ) 
swoon  beneath  waves  of  shifting  heat;  long-eared  Jack-rab- 
bits ( conejos ),  coyotes  (Aztec,  coyotl).  horned  toads  ( zapos ), 
and  many  minor  quadrupeds  are  features  in  the  landscape. 

11  M.  Mesa.  The  mountains  on  the  1.  contain  gold.  A long 
line  of  faint  blue  hills  marks  the  American  side  of  the  Rio 
Grande , whose  course  is  delimned  by  the  green  cottonwoods 
which  grow  on  its  banks.  20  M.  Tierra  Blanca.  29  M.  Sama- 
layuca.  42  M.  Los  Medanos.  On  the  1.  is  a small  group  of 
sand  dunes  which  change  their  forms  with  the  velocity  and  di- 
rection of  the  wind. 

4S  M.  Candelaria.  The  tall  Mt.  on  the  r.  contains  a fine 
spring  of  cold  water  which  flows  out  from  an  almost  inac- 
cessible ravine.  The  spot  was  long  the  chosen  stronghold 
of  Gertinimo  and  his  pestilent  braves.  They  w^ere  routed  out  of 
here  and  chased  to  the  State  of  Sonora  by  the  American  Gen- 
eral (’rook,  who  finally  captured  them  (1883).  59  M.  Ran - 
cher ia.  68  M.  Lucero.  74  M.  San  Jose.  82  M.  Ahumada.  89 
II.  Carrizal.  96  M.  Ojocaliente.  104  M.  Las  Minas. 

112  M.  Montezuma.  Rly.  restaurant.  Meals  $2.  The  little  j 
garden  adjoining  the  station  shows  what  water  will  do  for  the  j 
so-called  desert.  Nature  has  endowed  this  region  with  an  al- 
most perfect  climate,  and  irrigation  would  make  it  one  of  the 
v orld's  beaut  v spots.  Mountain  lion  and  similar  game  can  be 
shot  in  the  mountains  to  the  W.  122  M.  Chivatito.  134  M.  El  | 
Sueco.  139  M.  Gallego.  144  M.  Loaeza.  152  M.  Creel. 

165  M.  Layuna.  The  long,  narrow  lake  visible  on  the  r.  is  | 
a hunter’s  paradise  during  the  so-called  winter  season.  Thou*  i 
sands  of  ducks  and  geese  (comp.  p.  lxxvii)  flock  hither  from 
the  colder  North  and  here  they  rest  and  multiply  in  prac- 
tically unhunted  security. 

Hunters  should  bear  in  mind  that  although  the  winter  days  are  warm 
and  balmy,  the  temperature  drops  with  the  sun;  during  the  dark  hours 


, „ t t«.  ttq  0*  ijjj . Ktr? » i.|oy  q 


and  Orient  Railroad  to'  I»  r o B 1 d 1 o 


to  Aguascalientes.  CHIHUAHUA  7.  Route.  25 

which  precede  the  mid-winter  dawn,  the  thermometer  often  registers  32° 
Fahr.  A camp  equipment  should  always  include  several  heavy  blankets. 
Ammunition  should  be  brought  from  the  U.  S.  A.,  as  it  is  not  always  pro- 
curable in  Mexican  towns. 

The  invading  American  army  camped  on  the  shore  of  this 
lake  in  1847,  and  the  efflorescent  soda  incrusted  on  the  margin 
of  the  water  was  used  by  the  soldiers  as  a substitute  for  salera- 
tus.  — 173  M.  Agua  Nueva.  182  M.  Encinillas.  194  M.  Sauz. 
199  M.  Terrazas.  211  M.  Corral. 

219  M.  Cuilty.  About  1 M.  to  the  1.  of  the  station  is  the  fine 
country-house  (quinta)  of  an  ex-governor  of  Chihuahua  State, 
Senor  Terrazas.  The  exterior,  with  its  glistening  spires  and 
Moorish  aspect,  gives  but  a faint  idea  of  the  richness  of  the 
interior,  on  which  vast  sums  were  spent.  Rich  buffalo  grass 
clothes  the  surrounding  plains  and  the  region  is  productive. 
Many  bunches  of  cattle  (ganado)  graze  on  the  prairies,  across 
which  career  droves  of  half-wild  mustangs  — the  contumacious 
descendants  of  the  vast  herds  which  once  roamed  this  region 
unchecked.  The  shifting  waves  of  heat  which  hover  above 
the  land  create  curious  mirages.  A track  laborer,  seen  from  a 
distance,  looks  gigantic;  a horse  or  a steer  cutting  the  sky- 
line takes  on  the  proportions  of  an  elephant.  From  this  point 
the  grade  slopes  gently  toward  Chihuahua , which  nestles  at  the 
base  of  a crescent-shaped  group  of  hills.  A few  miles  to  the  N. 
on  the  r.  is  Sacramento  Hill , the  scene  of  a brief  but  fierce 
struggle  between  Mexican  troops  and  the  invading  Americans 
in  March,  1847. 

225  M.  Chihuahua  Shops  (talleres).  Rly.  restaurant;  meals 
81.  We  cross  the  Chuviscar  River  on  a high  bridge.  A number  of 
factories  are  visible  on  the  right,  and  beyond  them  stretches 
the  city  of  226  M.  Chihuahua,  see  below.  For  a continuation 
of  the  journey  see  page  32. 

7.  Chihuahua. 

Arrival.  The  Railway  Station  ( estacion  del  ferrocarril ) is  on  the  east- 
ern edge  of  the  city  (PI.  B,  2)  about  1 M.  from  the  Plaza  Mayor  (PI.  B,  3) 
and  the  chief  hotels.  (Other  railway  stations  are  those  of  the  Chihuahua 
and  Pacific  Railway,  and  the  Kansas  City,  Mexico  & Orient  Rly. 
(PI.  C,  4), described  at  p.  56.)  The  Ferrocarril  Mineral  de  Chihuahua 
connects  the  city  with  the  mining  town  of  Santa  Eulalia,  mentioned  at 
p.  32.  Cabs  (see  below)  and  tram-cars  meet  all  incoming  trains:  cab  to 
the  hotel  25  c.  ; by  tram-car  10  c.  Trunks  by  cargador  (p.  lii)  or  express 
company  50  c. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  Palace  Hotel  (H.  Palacio),  facing  the  plaza 
(PI.  B,  3);  $3.50  to  $6  Am.  PI.  (Omnibus,  free  to  guests,  meets  trains, 
trunks  50  c.,  hand-bags  25  c.) : Amer.  management  and  cooking.  — Hotel 
Robinson,  near  the  plaza;  $3.50  to  $6  Am.  PI.  Eng.  & Sp.  spoken;  Amer. 
management  and  cooking.  Omnibus  free.  — Hotel  Ahumada,  2 sqrs.  N’. 
of  the  plaza  ; $3  to  $6  Am.  PI.  Rooms  only,  $1.50  to  $3;  suites  with 
bath  $3  to  $5;  Eng.  and  Sp.  spoken.  — Hotel  Colon,  Calle  de  la  Libertad 
(PI.  B,  3)  S05.  Rooms  only,  $1  to  $3;  Am.  PI.  $2  to  $4.  There  are  a num- 
ber of  minor  hotels. 

Cabs.  Cab-stands  at  the  E.  and  W.  corners  of  the  Cathedral  (PI.  B,  3) 


26  Route  7. 


CHIHUAHUA 


Climate. 


and  the  Plaza  dr  la  Constitucion  (Plaza  Mayor);  E.  and  W.  sides  of  the 
Plaza  Merino  ; E.  and  S.  sides  of  the  Jardin  25  de  Marzo  ; at  the  Plaza  de 
Hidalqo  and  the  Palacio  de  Gobierno.  A small  tin  flag  carried  upright 
(lowered  when  the  cab  is  engaged)  denotes  that  the  vehicle  is  for  hire. 
Blue  ( azul ) denotes  1st  cl.,  red  ( rojo ) 2d  cl.,  and  yellow  Jamarillo) 

3d  cl.  The  latter  are  not  suitable  for  foreigners  and  are  usually  preferred  I 
by  the  lower  classes.  Fares:  blue  flag,  SI .25  the  hour,  63  c.  % hr.,  25  c. 

5 hr.;  one  or  two  persons;  for  more  than  two  50  c.  i hr.  After  10  p.  m.  the 
rates  are  SI. 50;  75,  25,  and  50  c.  respective^.  — 2d  cl.,  SI  an  hour;  50  c. 
a 1 hr.;  25  c.  for  a \ hr.,  for  one  or  twTopers.:  more  than  two,  50  c.  Night 
fares  Si. 25,  63,  25,  and  50  c.  respectively.  The  local  regulations  are  that 
each  cochero  must  show  his  tariff-book  when  called  upon  to  do  so.  In  the 
event  of  a dispute,  ask  him  to  drive  to  the  comisaria  (local  police  station) , 
where  the  matter  will  be  satisfactorily  adjusted. 

American  Newspapers,  magazines,  curios,  kodak  supplies,  etc.,  Amer-  j 
ican  Photo  & Stationery  Co.,  cor.  Avenida  Independencia  and  Calle 
Aldama. 

Banks.  Banco  Nacional  — Banco  de  Chihuahua — Banco  Comercial. 

Chihuahua  Foreign  Club  — Calle  de  Aldama. 

Chihuahua  (pronounced  Che-wah-wah) , capital  of  the  state 
of  the  same  name  (p.  29),  pop.  30,500,  alt.  4,600  ft.,  the  first 
important  Mexican  city  south  of  the  frontier,  at  the  base  of  a 
group  of  hills  fairly  bursting;  with  mineral  wealth,  derives  its 
name  from  the  two  Indian  ( Tarahumare ) words  signifying 
“Place  of  the  Workshop.”  It  is  a busy,  bi-lingual  place  — 
a felicitous  blend  of  Texas  and  Mexico  — with  a consider- 
able American  population.  American  money  (2  pesos  for  SI 
Am.)  passes  as  readily  as  Mexican;  English  is  almost  as 
much  spoken  as  Spanish,  and  a number  of  American  manu- 
factories give  an  air  of  progress  to  the  town.  There  are  several 
smelters,  an  iron  foundry,  a soap  factory,  two  or  three  cotton- 
seed mills,  a brewery  and  many  minor  industries.  The  region 
roundabout  is  celebrated  for  its  enormous  output  of  ores. 
According  to  trustworthy  authority,  some  of  the  older  build- 
ings in  Chihuahua  contain  enough  silver  in  their  walls  to 
render  their  demolition  and  reduction  a profitable  under- 
taking. The  early  Spanish  method  of  extracting  silver  ores 
was  so  crude  that  much  rich  mineral  was  thrown  with  the 
dross  after  the  reduction  of  the  ores,  and  in  the  absence  of 
a better  material,  this  slag,  mixed  with  silver  scoriae,  was 
used  to  construct  many  of  the  houses. 

Chihuahua  came  into  history  coincidently  with  the  Spanish  occupa- 
tion of  northern  Mexico.  The  Spanish  explorers  found  the  primitive 
town  inhabited  by  a tribe  of  Indians  whose  history  and  traditions  were 
unknown  to  them,  but  whose  destiny  was  perhaps  linked  with  the  nu- 
merous  architectural  ruins  at  Casas  Grandes,  described  at  p.  54.  The 
Castilians  conquered  the  inhabitants  and  founded  a Spanish  town  (1539, 
bv  Dieqo  de  Ibarra)  and  called  it  San  Felipe  el  Real  (Royal  St.  Philip). 
The  discovery  of  silver  in  1718  brought  the  region  into  prominence,  and 
i’i  1824  the  town  was  elevated  to  the  category  of  a city.  Its  prosperity 
dates  from  about  1825,  when,  after  the  struggle  for  Independence,  the 
country  settled  down  to  peaceful  conditions. 

The  Climate  of  Chihuahua  is  excellent ; winter  is  the  best 
season  for  a visit,  for  then  the  days  are  like  fine  autumn  days 
in  the  U.  S.  A.,  with  brilliant  sunshine  and  cool,  sleepful 


Hidalgo. 


CHIHUAHUA 


7.  Route.  27 


nights.  The  annual  rains  begin  about  the  last  week  in  June 
and  end  in  October.  May,  June,  and  July  are  the  hottest 
months,  with  the  mercury  ranging  around  94°  Fahr. 

Chihuahua  is  a reliquary  of  contemporaneous  history, 
and  the  handsome  monument  to  Miguel  Hidalgo  y Costilla 
(the  Washington  of  Mexico),  in  the  Plaza  or  Jar  din  de  Hidalgo 
(PL  B,  3),  commemorates  one  of  its  greatest  tragedies.  This 
monumento  is  Corinthian,  45  ft.  high,  made  of  marble  from 
Orizaba  (p.  489)  and  cost  60,000  pesos.  The  bronze  figure 
(8  ft.  high)  of  the  Cura , and  the  smaller  bronze  statues  of 
his  adherents,  were  cast  in  Brussels.  The  Spanish  inscription 
advises  that  “The  Author  of  Mexican  Independence  was 
sacrificed  here  July  30,  181 1 

The  tower  in  which  Hidalgo  was  imprisoned  is  a part  of 
the  modern  Palacio  de  Gobierno  or  Federal  (PI.  B,  3)  in  the 
Calle  de  la  Libertad.  The  new  building  was  erected  (1908-09) 
around  the  old  tower,  in  the  wall  of  which  is  the  inscription: 
“In  this  tower  Miguel  Hidalgo  y Costilla,  Leader  of  the 
Independent  Cause,  suffered  his  last  imprisonment,  from 
April  23  to  July  30,  1811.  This  tablet  was  placed  here  Dec. 
1,  1888.” 

At  the  foot  of  the  altar  of  the  Capilla  de  San  Antonio  (in 
the  Cathedral)  is  a black  marble  slab  on  which  is  inscribed : 
“Don  Miguel  Hidalgo  y Costilla,  Father  of  Mexican  Independ- 
ence, was  shot  in  Chihuahua  July  31,  1811,  and  his  decapi- 
tated body  was  laid  here.  The  remains  were  exhumed  for 
transportation  to.  Mexico  City  in  1827.”  1 

When  the  sorely  beset  priest  and  his  patriotic  adherents  (comp, 
p.  cxcix)  met  with  reverses  (1810)  in  the  South,  they  reluctantly  turned 
their  faces  northward  to  unite  the  torn  and  scattered  forces  at  the 
Hacienda  del  Pabellon.  Here  Hidalgo  turned  over  the  military  command 
to  Ignacio  de  Allende,  and  it  was  decided  to  try  to  reach  the  United 
States  and  endeavor  to  obtain  financial  support  from  that  liberty- 
loving  country.  The  ragged  army  marched  through  the  States  of  Aguas - 
calientes  and  Zacatecas , and  on  reaching  Saltillo  (State  of  Coahuila) 
it  was  met  bv  Lieutenant-Colonel  Ignacio  Elizondo,  who  had  but  recently 
joined  the  insurgent  ranks  and  who  now  requested  a colonelcy  under 
Allende.  For  private  reasons  this  was  refused,  and  the  embittered 
Elizondo , promptly  transferring  his  allegiance,  sought  an  interview 
with  the  Bishop  of  Monterey  ( Primo  Feliciano  Maria),  planned  an 
ambush,  and  captured  Hidalgo  and  his  adherent  at  Acatita  de  Bajan, 
March  21.  1811. 

By  slow  and  painful  marches  they  were  conducted  to  Chihuahua, 
where  they  arrived  April  23.  The  Spaniards  immediately  held  a council 
of  war  and  the  prisoners  were  condemned  to  death.  Pending  execution 
Hidalgo  was  imprisoned  in  the  tower  of  the  chapel  of  the  old  Hospital 
Real,  later  used  as  the  Oficina  Federal  de  Ensaye.  At  seven  o’clock  of 
the  morning  of  July  30,  he  was  conducted  to  a wall  in  the  rear  of  the 
Hospital  Real,  where,  after  dividing  some  candies  among  his  executioners, 
he  was  shot.  He  fell  mortally  wounded  at  the  first  discharge.  The 
soldiers  then  advanced  and  gave  him  the  tiro  de  gracia,  firing  into  his 
body  until  life  was  extinct.  A Spaniard  then  drew  a long  knife  and 

1 There  are  two  errors  in  this  inscription,  for  according  to  historians 
Hidalgo  was  shot  July  30  and  his  body  was  disinterred  for  removal  to 
the  capital  in  1823. 


28  Route  7. 


CHIHUAHUA 


Cathedral 


hacked  off  his  head,  which  was  later  taken  to  Guanajuato  (see  p.  140),  jj 
where  for  nearly  ten  years  it  hung  on  an  iron  hook  at  a corner  of  the 
Alhdndiga  “as  a warning  to  criminals  who  sacrifice  themselves  for  the  I 
independence  of  their  country.” 

The  Cathedral,  formerly  the  Parroquia  (parochial  ch.), 
faces  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucidn  (PI.  B,  3),  is  dedicated  to  j 
San  Francisco  (the  patron  saint  of  the  town),  and  was  begun  j 
in  1717  and  completed  in  1789,  at  a cost  of  8600,000.  It  is 
said  that  this  sum  represented  the  proceeds  of  a tax  of  one  j 
real  (124  c.)  levied  upon  each  marco  (4  lb.)  of  silver  produced 
from  the  200  or  more  mines  which  at  that  time  were  operated 
in  the  vicinity.  Tradition  avers  that  an  inclined  plane  of 
earth  was  raised  against  the  building  after  the  foundation 
was  laid,  and  as  fast  as  the  stones  were  rolled  into  position 
the  plane  was  increased,  so  that  when  the  last  stone  was 
placed  on  the  tower  the  entire  structure  was  buried  and  the  I 
runway  extended  beyond  the  edge  of  the  plaza. 

The  edifice  is  of  light-colored  stone,  with  two  graceful  f 
towers  (146  ft.  high)  and  a dome.  Thirteen  statues  ( San  j 
Francisco  de  Asis  and  12  apostles)  adorn  the  profusely  orna-  \ 
mented  facade.  In  the  recesses  of  the  arches  supporting  the  | 
dome  are  bas-reliefs  of  the  fathers  of  the  ch.  The  Doric  in-  jj 
terior  (109  ft.  long  by  86  ft.  wide)  with  its  central  nave  and 
aisles  is  attractive.  The  Altar  Mayor  is  supported  by  16  jj 
Corinthian  columns  in  groups  of  four,  with  a statue  of  San  I 
Francisco  de  Asis.  Many  fine  silver  ornaments  were  removed  j 
from  the  ch.  after  the  promulgation  of  the  Reform  Laws  | 
(1859)  and  the  sequestration  of  ch.  property.  The  vest-  I 
ments  in  the  sacristia  are  but  simulacrums  of  the  rich  posses-  1 
sions  of  former  times.  The  pictures  in  the  various  chapels  1 
are  mediocre.  Above  the  main  entrance  is  the  date  1738;  1 
higher  up,  among  the  figurines,  the  date  aho  1741  can  be  S 
deciphered.  The  present  clock  covers  a spot  where  once  the  J 
coat-of-arms  of  the  Spanish  King  were  emblazoned.  One  of  1 
the  old  Dells  in  the  tower  has  a hole  that  was  shot  through  it  I 
by  the  Republican  forces  who  bombarded  the  town  when  a 
it  was  in  possession  of  the  French  troops  of  Maximilian  in  jj 
1866.  The  interior  was  renovated  in  1910. 

The  towers  should  be  ascended  (fee  of  25  c.  to  the  sands - || 
tdn)  if  only  for  the  sake  of  the  view.  The  eye  travels  over  | 
many  miles  of  upland  and  mountain  country,  across  which  J 
plod  caravans  of  mules  and  burros,  raising  clouds  of  dust  and  I 
recalling  the  old  days  when  many  similar  caravans  brought  I 
in  rich  cargoes  of  bullion  from  the  outlying  mines.  The  1 
great  aqueduct  (erected  in  1790),  which  stretches  34  M.  across 
the  valley  to  the  hills,  is  seen  here  to  good  advantage. 

Minor  churches  (of  no  particular  interest  to  the  traveller) 
are  the  Sanluario  de  Xuestra  Sehora  de  Guadalupe,  PI.  A,  5 
(at  the  head  of  the  Alameda  Cuauhtemoc,  near  the  statue  of 


7.  Route.  29 


State  of  Chihuahua.  CHIHUAHUA 

the  great  Jesuit  San  Ignacio  de  Loyola)  ; the  Jesuit  Church  of 
La  Compahia  de  Jesus,  erected  in  1717  by  order  of  Don 
Manuel  de  Santa  Cruz;  the  Oratorio  de  San  Felipe  Neri,  and 
several  minor  churches  and  chapels.  The  busiest  thorough- 
fares, and  the  focus  of  the  commercial  life  of  the  city,  are 
the  Calles  de  la  Libertad  and  La  Victoria  (PI.  B,  3).  Some 
of  the  best  shops  face  these  streets.  Chief  among  the  pretty 
plazas  (music  by  military  bands  on  certain  days)  are  the 
Jar  din  del  Porvenir,  Plaza  de  Merino , P argue  Lerdo  de  Te- 
jada (PI.  B,  4),  Alameda  Cuauhtemoc  (PL  A,  4),  and  the  Plaza 
de  la  Constitucion  (PL  B,  3).  The  Indians  one  sees  occasion- 
ally are  of  a tribe  known  as  the  T arahumares  (described 
at  p.  57),  the  one-time  aboriginals  of  the  region. 

Chihuahua  (an  Estado  del  Norte),  largest  and  richest  of  the 
Mex.  States,  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  United  States  and 
the  Rio  Grande,  on  the  E.  by  Coahuila,  on  the  S.  by  Du- 
rango and  on  the  W.  by  Durango  and  Sinaloa.  Its  area  (227,468 
sqr.  kilom.)  is  about  three  times  that  of  the  State  of  New 
York  and  is  sparsely  populated;  the  inhabitants  (327,800,  of 
which  some  8,000  are  Indians,  chiefly  T arahumares)  represent 
less  than  two  to  the  sqr.  kilom.  Four  fifths  of  this  vast  terri- 
tory is  a beautiful  upland  plain,  from  4,000  to  8,000  ft.  above 
sea -level.  Lying  between  the  mountain  peaks  and  ranges  are 
other  plains,  Chilicote,  Gigante  and  the  Bolson  (pocket)  de  Ma- 
pimi,  — an  immense  arid  depression  in  the  E.  portion,  crossed 
by  the  National  Rlys.  of  Mexico.  Tall  peaks  of  the  Sierra 
Madre  Mts.  — some  of  them  rising  5,000  ft.  above  the  sur- 
rounding plains  — dominate  the  W.  section.  Sand  and  alkali 
are  salient  characteristics  of  the  plains,  for  which  reason  but 
about  one  half  the  state  is  under  cultivation.  Many  thousands 
of  acres  of  hitherto  uncultivated  land  are  now  being  reclaimed 
by  artesian  wells  ( pozos  artesianos)  and  artificial  irrigation. 
The  river-banks,  and  the  spots  where  lagoons  form  during 
the  rainy  season,  are  generally  very  fertile.  Cattle-raising 
and  mining  are  the  chief  occupations:  vast  herds  of  half- 
wild cattle  and  bronchos  are  to  be  seen  from  the  trains  crossing 
the  state.  Excellent  timber  is  found  in  the  mountains,  where 
about  150,000  trees  are  devoted  to  the  production  of  resin 
and  turpentine.  Vast  timber  areas  are  being  opened  up  by 
American  capital,  saw-mills  are  being  established  and  many 
colonists  are  settling  in  the  W.  regions  of  the  state.  A number 
of  railways,  including  the  Ferrocarriles  Nacionales  de  Mexico, 
cross  the  state,  and  others  are  building. 

“ A peculiarity  of  the  desert  region  of  Chihuahua  is  that  nearly  all 
the  vegetation  is  supplied  with  thorns  or  spines.  First  comes  the  almost 
endless  variety  of  cacti,  ranging  from  the  tiny  plant  not  larger  than 
the  finger  to  the  giant  pitahaya  (p.  lxxxi)  pushing  its  tall  stem  to  the 
height  oc  50  ft.  Then  follow  the  mesquite  (Aztec  mesquitl),  the  tornilla , 
the  fouquiera,  the  agaves  and  the  yucas,  all  armed  with  spikes  as  if  to 
repel  invaders  from  the  north.  Nor  are  these  thorny  and  bizarre  forms 


30  Route  7. 


CHIHUAHUA 


Climate. 


confined  to  animal  and  vegetable  life;  they  seem  to  extend  to  Nature, 
even  in  the  grandest  aspects  in  which  she  here  appears,  as  the  mountain 
ridges  present  the  most  singular  summits,  terminating  in  pyramidal 
points,  or  resembling  towers  or  minarets.  Thus  is  everything  to  these 
desert  regions  peculiar.” 

Interesting  among  the  plants  is  a small  agave  with  ash-colored  leaves  i 
covered  with  livid  spots.  It  is  known  to  the  Indians  as  Cebadilla  (sneeze- 
wort)  and  the  juice  of  its  leaves,  which  contain  a strong  alkaloid,  serves  j 
as  an  excellent  antidote  for  the  bite  of  any  poisonous  animal  or  reptile,  i 
Snakes  flee  the  plant,  and  when  irritated  by  the  Indians  into  biting  it, 
quickly  die  in  convulsions. 

A great  variety  of  insects  and  reptilia,  including  lizards,  horned-toads,  | 
tarantulas,  alacranes  (scorpions),  rattlesnakes,  and  the  like,  thrive  on  the  j 
sun-warmed  sandy  plains.  Moles,  rats,  mice,  rabbits  and  prairie-dogs 
abound.  A myriad  wild-ducks  and  geese  make  the  shallow  lakes  their 
winter  rendezvous,  and  during  the  winter,  certain  sections  of  the  state  | 
become  a hunter’s  paradise  (comp.  p.  lxxvii).  Conspicuous  among  \Ve  I 
birds  is  the  paysano , or  chaparral  cock,  which  attacks  and  devours 
rattlesnakes  with  unbridled  gusto . 

The  Climate  is  temperate  and  fine,  particularly  on  the  up- 
lands, where  paludal  fevers  are  practically  unknown.  In  mid- 
winter snow  sometimes  falls  to  the  depth  of  a foot  or  more, 
in  the  mountains;  the  midsummer  heat  of  the  valleys  is 
apt  to  be  extreme.  The  summers  are  long,  with  cool  nights. 
Frosty  mornings  characterize  the  spring  and  fall  mornings. 
The  rainfall  (during  the  estacion  de  aguas)  is  ample.  The 
rlimate  in  the  Sierra  Madre  foothills  is  so  fine  that  many  of 
the  Tarahumare  Indians  (p.  57)  live  to  be  a hundred  or  more 
years  old. 

The  River  System  comprises  the  Rio  Grande , which  serves 
as  a section  of  the  boundary  line  between  Mexico  and  the 
U.  S.  A.;  the  Conchos  (shells),  which  empties  into  the  Rio 
Grande;  the  Carmen , which  forms  the  Laguna  de  Patos  (duck 
lagoon) ; the  Casas  Grande , Chinipas  and  many  minor  streams. 

Mineral  Springs  abound;  prominent  among  them  are 
the  Santa  Rosalia  (p.  33),  San  Diego , Cochinillas,  Carmen , 
Carrizal , Chuviscar . and  the  Tehuichic.  Vast  sheets  of  water 
underlie  the  surface  and  artesian  wells  are  increasing  in 
number.  The  fine  cascade  of  Basaseachic , in  the  Sierra  de 
Tarahumare , is  one  of  the  most  notable  water-falls  (970  ft. 
high)  in  the  Republic. 

The  Agricultural  Products  are  barley,  maize,  wheat, 
chick-peas,  beans,  lentils,  peanuts,  cotton,  and  whatnot. 
The  mountain  slopes  produce  an  excellent  quality  of  white- 
cedar,  evergreen-oak  and  white-birch.  In  the  Distrito  de 
Batopilas  is  a species  of  soap-tree,  from  which  a good  quality 
of  soap  is  made.  The  state  produces  many  of  the  temperate 
zone  fruits,  among  them  peaches,  apricots,  apples,  pomegran- 
ates, grapes,  and  a great  variety  of  melons.  In  the  warm 
valleys  between  the  mountain  peaks  are  many  aromatic 
plants,  and  the  honey  made  by  the  bees 1 which  feed  thereon 


1 The  bee  ( abeja ) is  found  all  over  Mexico,  busily  producing  honey 
and  wax.  It  is  claimed  that  the  Mex.  bees  do  not  store  such  quantities 


Apaches . CHIHUAHUA  7.  Route . 31 

is  of  an  unusually  fine  quality  and  flavor.  Large  quantities 
of  hides  are  exported. 

A peculiar  product  of  the  state  are  the  Chihuahua  Dogs 
(. Perros  Chihuahuefios)  — vivacious  little  canines  which 
resemble  somewhat  the  Chin  Koro  of  Japan  and  the  Sleeve 
Dog  of  China.  The  pure-bred  dogs  are  of  a delicate  fawn,  or 
fawn-and-white  color,  with  large  erect  ears,  standing  out  like 
the  wings  of  a butterfly,  from  which  circumstance  they  are 
sometimes  called  “butterfly-dogs.”  They  are  produced  by 
“in-and-in  breeding”  and  by  the  selection  of  the  smallest  for 
reproducing  their  kind.  Usually  they  weigh  from  16  oz.  to 
3 lbs.  and  are  about  the  size  of  an  exaggerated  rat.  Their  eyes 
are  large  and  languishing.  Pure-bred  specimens  are  dis- 
tinguished by  a depression  ( mollera ) about  the  size  of  a pea 
in  the  forehead,  and  by  the  possession  of  20  nails  — 5 on 
each  foot.  They  are  fragile  creatures,  very  sensitive  to  cold, 
and  very  expensive.  During  the  last  decade  their  value 
has  risen  enormously.  Thoroughbreds  that  could  be  bought 
formerly  for  ten  pesos  now  bring  hundreds  and  even  thou- 
sands of  pesos.  Some  of  the  native  women  raise  them  with 
tender  solicitude,  and  expend  upon  them  more  care  than  they 
give  to  their  own  offspring.  The  young  dogs  offered  for  sale 
on  the  streets  of  Chihuahua  are  apt  to  develop  into  large  and 
lusty  curs. 

From  early  times  until  quite  recently  Chihuahua  suffered  from  the 
raids  of  Apache  Indians.  In  reports  dating  from  1771  to  1776  one  of 
the  Spanish  governors  mentions  that  1,647  persons  were  murdered  by 
these  barbaros;  that  134  more  were  captured,  116  haciendas  (farms) 
burned,  66,125  head  of  stock  stolen,  and  $16,000,000  worth  of  property 
was  destroyed.  Early  in  the  19th  century  hordes  of  Apaches  and  Co- 
manches  poured  across  the  Mexican  border  (from  the  U.S.  A.),  wintered 
in  the  balmy  climate  of  Chihuahua  and  made  life  a burden  to  the  Spanish 
settlers.  It  was  not  until  about  1830  that  the  Mexican  army  awoke  to 
the  necessity  of  inflicting  severe  reprisals  on  these  red  degenerates.  By 
the  Proyecta  de  Guerra  (war  project)  of  1837  the  state  government 
offered  a bounty  of  $100  for  every  Indian  warrior’s  scalp,  and  $50  for 
that  of  a squaw.  This  proyecta  had  the  effect  of  promptly  lessening  the 
number  of  salvajes  in  the  region  contiguous  to  the  capital  city,  and 
when  the  bounty  for  a Buck’s  scalp  was  raised  to  $250,  the  Apaches* 1 
decided  that  life  in  Chihuahua  was  not  conducive  to  Indian  longevity. 
Many  bloody  raids  were,  however,  made  between  1840  and  1850;  the 
Indians  went  as  far  south  as  San  Luis  Potosi  and  Zacatecas , burning 
and  plundering  towns  and  killing  the  panic-stricken  inhabitants.  The 
American  idea  of  putting  the  rebellious  red-skins  on  “reservations”  and 
preventing  their  leaving  them  brought  the  Mexican  scourge  to  an  end. 

The  production  of  Minerals  is  enormous.  Silver  is  found 
in  almost  unlimited  quantities  and  much  of  the  great  wealth 
of  the  state  is  drawn  from  its  mines.  The  mountains  are 


of  honey  as  do  the  bees  of  a colder  clime,  but  sufficient  only  for  the  short 
Mexican  winter. 

1 Apache  is  a Pima  Indian  word  meaning  enemy.  The  Apaches  call 
themselves  Shis  Inday , or  “ men  of  the  woods.”  Consult  Native  Races , by 
Hubert  Howe  Bancroft,  vol.  i,  chap.  v. 


32  Route  6. 


CHIXIPAS  DISTRICT  Santa  Eulalia 


honeycombed  with  mines  which  produce  gold,  silver,  copper, 
and  lead  ores.  The  most  celebrated  districts  are  Santa  Eulalia 
(see  below),  Parr  at  (described  at  p.  64),  Minas  Nuevas, 
Palmare  jo,  Guazapares,  Cusihuiriachic,  Batopilas,  Cerro 
Colorado , Corralitos,  etc. 

El  Real  de  Santa  Eulalia,  about  17  M.  (by  railway,  F.  C.  Mineral  de 

Chihuahua ) S.-E.  of  Chihuahua  City,  is  the  famous  old  mining-camp 
to  which  Chihuahua  owes  its  origin  and  prosperity.  Discovered  in  1703, 
this  district  has  been,  and  still  is,  one  of  the  great  silver-lead  producers 
of  the  world.  For  86  years  after  its  discovery  (by  outlaws  who  were 
hiding  from  the  authorities)  the  total  output  upon  which  the  crown  tax 
(L  was  paid  amounted  to  §112,000,000.  The  mines  lie  adjacent-  to  the 
village  of  Santa  Eulalia.  Modern  methods  are  now  employed  in  their 
working. 

The  Chinipas  District,  in  the  Sierra  Madre  Mts.  near  the 
(southern)  Sonora  State  line,  is  rich  in  mineral,  timber,  and 
agricultural  possibilities.  The  region  is  known  to  miners  as 
one  in  which  there  are  many  gold  prospects. 

In  the  State  Mining  Exhibit,  at  Chihuahua  City,  there  is 
a comprehensive  collection  of  ores  from  different  sections  of 
the  state. 

Chihuahua , see  p.  25.  Long  lines  of  heavily  laden  ore-cars 
usually  stand  on  the  Chihuahua  sidings,  and  immediately  to 
the  S.  of  the  station  are  some  hills  with  a number  of  mines. 
Our  train  runs  southward  through  a thinly  populated  coun- 
try dotted  here  and  there  with  tall  cottonwood  trees  and 
herds  of  goats  (cobras)  — the  “ mutton  ” of  Mexico  — attended 
by  ragged  goatherds.  Green  fields  (vegas)  alternate  with  dry 
river-beds  ( arroyos ) and  patches  of  brown  land  where  plowmen 
trench  the  soil  with  wooden  plows  after  the  style  popular  in 
Pharaoh’s  time.  Hereabout  irrigation  is  practised  extensively 
with  the  cool  clear  water  which  flows  from  a range  of  blue- 
peaked  hills  hard  by. 

Landscape  views  in  Mexico  arc  nearly  always  limited  by  hills:  travel 
where  you  may  in  the  Republic  hills  generally  form  the  background  to  a 
view,  and  the  fact  that  they  usually  harbor  untold  riches  in  their  tawny 
bosoms  makes  them  doubly  attractive  to  the  utilitarian.  For  reference 
to  the  component  parts  of  some  of  these  hills,  and  the  minerals  they 
contain  comp.  p.  Ixxxviii. 

227  M.  Santa  Eulalia.  232  M.  Alberto.  238  M . Mdpula.  253 
M.  Horcasitas.  264  M.  Bachimba.  272  M.  Consuelo .. 

279  M.  Ortiz.  A few  miles  to  the  E.  of  this  station  is  the 
deserted  Boer  Colony  which  proved  a failure.  2S4  M.  Las 
Delicias . 294  M.  Saucillo.  315  M.  La  Cruz.  The  line  describes 
a wide  curve  and  crosses  a six-span  steel  bridge. 

326  M.  Santa  Rosalia  (4,086  ft.)  with  a pop.  of  8,900  is 
celebrated  throughout  Mexico  for  its  Mineral  Springs,  which 
are  said  to  be  efficacious  in  rheumatic  ailments.  The  town 
is  known  also  as  Camargo  from  being  located  in  the  district 
(State  of  Chihuahua)  of  that  name.  It  occupies  the  centre  of 
a fine  agricultural  region  sprinkled  with  valuable  mining  pro- 


Jimenez . 


SANTA  ROSALIA 


6.  Route . 33 


perties,  but  the  native  town,  on  a low  bluff  to  the  r.  of  the  sta- 
tion, is  a straggling,  nondescript  place  devoid  of  interesting 
features.  Hard  by  are  the  ruins  of  an  old  fortress  which  was 
stprmed  and  taken  by  the  Americans  (in  1847)  under  Doni- 
phan, during  their  march  through  this  region  to  join  General 
Taylor , soon  after  the  outbreak  of  the  Mexican  War  (comp, 
p.  ccx).  The  country  contiguous  to  Santa  Rosalia  produces 
several  fine  crops  of  alfalfa  ( Medicago  sativa  leguminosas ) each 
year. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  Hotel  Hidalgo , about  1 M.  from  the  rly.  station; 
Amer.  PI.,  management,  and  cooking;  So  a day;  rooms  only  (of  which 
there  are  25),  SI  to  $2.  Breakfast,  in  the  restaurant,  75  c.;  dinner  or 
supper  SI.  Baths  50  c. — Grand  Hotel  Comercio,  £ M.  from  the  station; 
Am.  PI.  S2.50.  Hotel  omnibus  meets  all  trains.  To  and  from  any  hotel, 
25  c.  per  person,  including  hand-luggage.  Trunks  25  c.  each. 

The  Hot  Springs,  3 M.  beyond  the  town,  in  the  rich  valley 
of  the  Rio  Conchos  (shell  river),  were  known  to  the  Indians 
for  their  curative  powers  before  the  Spaniards  came  to  Mexico. 
The  Apaches  of  the  S.-W.  of  the  U.  S.  A.  used  to  come  here 
to  bathe  in  the  sulphurous  waters,  which  gush  out  from  a 
buff-colored  bluff  some  50  ft.  high.  The  town  records  show 
that  persons  so  badly  afflicted  with  rheumatism  as  to  require 
to  be  brought  hither  on  a stretcher  have  come  away  from 
the  springs  apparently  cured  after  a short  course  of  treat- 
ment. The  cab  fare  from  the  hotels  in  the  town  to  the  springs 
and  return  is  81.  If  one  goes  to  bathe  the  cab  must  be 
paid  for  by  and  at  the  rate  of  81  the  hour. 

The  Gran  Hotel  de  la  Cueva  ($2  to  $6  a day  Am.  PI.)  at  the  Springs 
has  125  rooms  (with  the  annex).  Cab  from  the  rly.  station  (4  M.) 
SI.  Bath  attendants  at  reasonable  rates.  Baths  50  c.  A booklet  with 
detailed  information,  analysis  of  the  waters,  etc.,  can  be  had  free  upon 
application  to  the  hotel  management,  or  the  passenger  agent  of  the  Na- 
tional Railways  of  Mexico. 

336  M.  Bustamante.  347  M.  Diaz . 359  M.  Reforma. 

371  M.  Jimenez  (pop.  9,000),  junction  of  the  Parral, 
Branch  to  Rosario , 97  M.  to  the  S.-W.  (Rte.  15,  p.  63). 

As  connections  for  the  Parral  Branch  ( ramal  de  Parral ) are  apt  not 
to  be  immediate  (consult  the  Guia  Oficial),  and  as  the  native  town 
(1  M.  distant)  is  without  adequate  hotel  accommodations,  the  traveller 
is  recommended  to  seek  a lodging  at  one  of  the  hotels  immediately  across 
the  street  from  the  station.  New  York  House,  Charlie  Chee,  Chinese 
management;  English  and  Spanish  spoken.  The  hotel,  at  the  lower  end 
of  the  rly.  yard,  is  a large,  rambling  structure,  with  a huge  patio  and 
30  well-aired  rooms  on  the  ground  floor.  Best  rooms,  Am.  PI.  $5  a day; 
the  back  rooms  are  $2.50.  Single  front  room  only,  $2;  back  room  $1. 
Meals  at  any  time  during  the  night,  or  day,  $1;  breakfast  50  c.  The 
traveller  is  counselled  to  leave  no  portable  articles  near  the  barred  win- 
dows opening  onto  the  street  (comp,  thieves,  p.  lxvii).  The  room  doors 
leading  into  the  patio  can  usually  be  left  open  with  safety. 

Mrs.  Town’s  Hotel;  rooms  $1  to  S3.  Meals  SI.  Good  milk  and  pastry. 
Well  spoken  of. 

Cargadores  (comp.  p.  Hi)  for  one  or  two  hand-bags  to  or  from  the 
station  25  c.  Double  after  10  p.  m.  Heavy  luggage  for  points  on  the 
Parral  Branch  leaves  from  the  same  station  ana  is  cared  for  by  the  rly. 
company. 


34  Route  6. 


JIMENEZ 


Escalon. 


The  poor  and  uninteresting  town  of  Jimenez  lies  in  a well- 
watered  valley  in  which  cotton  is  successfully  cultivated. 
The  church  spires  of  the  town  are  visible  above  the  trees.  The 
region  is  well  known  to  archaeologists  for  its  meteorites. 
In  1521  the  two  halves  of  the  great  Chupaderos  meteorite 
( meteorito ) were  found  17  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  present  station. 
In  1600  the  noted  San  Gregorio  meteorite  was  found  36  M. 
to  the  W.  Later,  another  and  smaller  one,  La  Concepcion , 
was  found  some  30  M.  to  the  S.-W.  Many  less  noteworthy 
meteorites  have  been  picked  up  in  the  vicinity.  Those 
above  mentioned  are  now  in  the  National  School  of  Mines 
at  Mexico  City  (comp.  p.  330). 

Beyond  Jimenez  the  line  trends  southward  over  a level 
country  to  379  M.  Dolores;  392  M.  Corralitos;  406  M.  Relleno; 
410  M.  Asunsolo,  and  to  the  railway  junction  of 

418  M.  Escalon. 

A railway  line,  Ferrocarril  Mexicano  del  Norte , runs  trains  hence  to 
the  Sierra  Mojada  Mining  Region  (73  M.,  one  train  daily  in  4^  hrs., 
fare  [see  p.  xxxi];  consult  the  Guia  Oficial),  touching  at  the  towns  of  7 M. 
La  India;  19  M.  Mariposa;  26  M.  La  Gloria;  30  M.  Carrillo;  44  M.  Guim- 
balete;  56  M.  Estanque;  65  M.  Rincon;  68  M.  El  Puerto , and  72  M.  Atre - 
vesada. 

We  traverse  an  arid  region  crossed  and  recrossed  by  dry 
water-courses  which  develop  into  raging  torrents  during  the 
rainy  season.  The  wide  river  bottoms  are  sandy  wastes 
destitute  of  vegetation  during  nine  months  of  the  year. 
Clouds  of  dust  chase  the  train  and  penetrate  the  smallest 
openings.  426  M.  Zavalza.  We  enter  the  State  of  Durango 
(p.  102).  437  M.  Ceballos.  449  M.  Yermo.  463  M.  Conejos. 

The  Ferrocarril  Central  Durango  runs  trains  hence  to  22  M. 
Drscubridora  (one  train  a week,  in  2 hrs.,  fare  [see  p.  xxxi]  ; consult  the 
Guia  Oficial)  viA  2 M.  Santa  Marina;  7 M.  Jaralito;  19  M.  Los  Alamos . 

477  M.  Peronal. 

492  M.  Bermejillo  (3,750  ft.),  formerly  Mapimi , in  the  great 
Bolson  de  Mapimi , the  deepest  depression  on  the  line.  Hotel 
San  Carlos  (near  the  rly.  station),  $2.50  Am.  PI.  Cab  25  c. 
Trunk  by  cargador  (comp.  p.  lii)  25  c.  If  the  traveller  has 
a number  of  trunks  he  can  hire  a cart  (consult  the  hotel 
manager)  for  about  10  c.  for  each  piece  of  baggage.  An 
agreement  should  be  reached  with  the  driver  before  starting. 

The  Ferrocarril  de  Mapimi  runs  trains  hence  (two  trains  daily  in  £ 
hr.,  fare  [seep,  xxxi,  and  Guia  Oficial])  to  15  M.  Mapimi,  touching  at  6 M.  La 
Zanja.  The  silver-lead  mining  district  of  Mapimi  produces  large  quan-  | 
titles  of  mineral.  In  agricultural  progress  and  wealth  the  region  round-  j 
about  is  one  of  the  most  advanced  in  the  state. 

Hence  to  Gomez  Palacio  (see  page  35)  the  line  traverses  a 
region  celebrated  for  vast  crops  of  corn,  alfalfa  and  cotton. 
The  bottom-lands  produce  enormously  under  the  stimulus  of 
irrigation.  The  many  white- walled  haciendas  that  dot  the 
country  lend  an  air  of  thrift  and  comfort.  Modem  agricul- 


TORREON 


8.  Route.  35 


tural  machinery  is  used  in  this  district  and  at  certain  sea- 
sons hundreds  of  men  and  mules  may  be  seen  plowing  with 
American  plows.  Miniature  plantation  railways  cross  some 
of  the  larger  estates.  Vast  quantities  of  algodon  (cotton, 
comp.  p.  102)  are  exported.  We  pass  the  stations  of  497  M. 
Santa  Clara;  500  M.  Brittingham;  503  M.  Noe;  509  M.  El 
V ergel. 

516  M.  Gomez  Palacio.  End  of  a rly.  division.  Rly.  shops. 
The  largest  soap  factory  in  the  country  is  located  here. 

We  cross  the  Rio  Nazas  (p.  103)  and  enter  the  State  of  Coa- 
huila  mentioned  at  p.  13. 

519  M.  Torreon,  see  below.  For  a continuation  of  the 
journey  see  p.  36. 

8.  Torreon. 

Torreon  is  a Railway  Junction  where  trains  usually  stop  for  meals.  Rly. 
restaurant.  For  reference  to  the  Rly.  Line  from  Torreon  to  Durango,  see 
Rte.  26,  p.  98;  to  Monterey  and  Tampico,  Rte.  3,  p.  11. 

The  City  lies  just  to  the  E.  of  the  station,  and  the  several  hotels  are  within 
easy  walking  distance. 

Cabs  and  Taxis  are  available.  A price  should  be  agreed  upon  before 
starting  on  trips  to  Lerdo , Gomez  Palacio , the  Smelter , or  other  places  outside 
the  city  limits.  The  usual  charge  is  $2.50  an  hour;  $1.50  a half  hour  or  less. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  All  near  the  plaza;  Hotel  Salvador;  Hotel  de 
Francia;  H.  Leon  de  Oro;  H.  Iberia;  H.  Washington;  H.  San  Carlos , H. 
Mexico,  and  others.  Rates  from  $2  up  per  day,  for  rooms  only;  meals  a 
la  carta.  Arrangements  can  be  made  to  lodge  on  the  American  Plan,  with 
an  inclusive  charge  for  board  and  room.  The  prevalent  dust  makes  upper 
rooms  more  desirable  than  those  on  the  ground  floor.  ’ 

Tramways  ( tranvias ) circle  the  town,  run  past  the  rly.  station,  and  go  to 
the  Smelter,  Gomez  Palacio,  and  Lerdo  (State  of  Durango)  on  the  Nazas 
River.  Time  about  25  min.  At  Lerdo  the  cars  stop  at  the  Plaza , a restful 
spot  embowered  in  flowers  and  with  many  fine  fresnos  (ash  trees).  Many 
Torreon  people  live  in  Lerdo  (pop.  about  9,000)  because  of  lower  rents,  etc. 
The  cars  usually  are  crowded  on  Sundays,  at  which  time  there  are  sports, 
and  music  in  the  plaza. 

Banks.  Celso  Garza  Gonzalez  is  the  correspondent  of  the  Mexico  City 
Banking  Corporation,  S.  A.  — Banco  Nacional  de  Mexico. 

Baths  ( bahos ).  Certain  of  the  newer  type  hotels  now  possess  these,  but 
if  the  hotel  the  traveller  decides  to  lodge  at  does  not  have  bath  rooms  the 
proprietor  will  indicate  which  of  the  city  bathing  establishments  is  the  clean- 
est and  most  popular. 

Excursions.  There  is  little  to  see  in  the  environs,  but  if  the  traveller  finds 
himself  at  Torreon  with  time  to  spare,  he  perhaps  will  enjoy  the  tram-car  ride 
to  Lerdo,  referred  to  above.  Lerdo  is  more  attractive  than  Torreon  in  certain 
of  its  aspects.  It  is  an  unusually  quaint  little  town,  and  is  quite  expressive 
of  the  somnolent  condition  of  certain  of  the  Mexican  places  untouched  by 
the  hand  of  progress  and  rarely  visited  by  foreign  tourists. 

Torreon  (3,790  ft.),  707  M.  from  Mexico  City,  with  a popu- 
lation of  26,000  (increasing  rapidly),  a new  and  thriving  town, 
very  rich  commercially,  in  the  productive  Laguna  district 
(State  of  Coahuila),  possesses  cotton,  flour,  and  iron  mills 
and  many  minor  factories.  The  cotton  mills  obtain  raw 
material  from  the  surrounding  country.  The  huge  smelter 
receives  ores  from  mines  hundreds  of  miles  distant.  The  land 
adjacent  to  the  town  is  the  picture  of  desolation  in  the  dry 
season,  but  the  rains  bring  it  into  life  and  verdure,  and  render 


36  Route  6.  TORREON  TO  MONTEREY 


Jimulco. 


it  beautiful  and  amazingly  productive.  Torreon  was  founded 
in  1887  on  a ranch  known  as  El  Coyote , and  the  town  was 
named  for  a watch-tower  erected  on  the  rancho  to  guard  against 
Indian  marauders.  Its  progress  has  been  so  rapid  that  in  1907 
it  was  elevated  to  the  rank  of  a city.  It  is  a place  of  dust  and 
energy;  t he  former  is  everywhere,  the  latter  expresses  itself  in 
line  buildings,  good  streets  and  tram-lines. 

A number  of  Americans  have  identified  themselves  with 
Torreon,  and  not  a little  of  its  material  progress  is  due  to 
them.  There  is  a colonia  China , and  many  of  the  Chinese 
residents  have  acquired  fortunes  in  the  district. 

The  Plaza  Principal,  or  Mayor,  is  the  centre  of  the  social 
life  of  the  city,  and  around  it  are  grouped  the  chief  commercial 
houses,  the  administrative  buildings,  the  hotels,  moving 
picture  teatros,  the  banks,  etc. 

The  Smelter  (la  fundicion)  is  owned  and  operated  by  Ameri- 
can interests  and  is  one  of  the  most  modern  and  efficient  in  the 
Republic. 

Torreon  to  Monterey,  thence  to  Tampico. 

To  (226  M.'  Monterey  (Division  de  Monterey).  Daily  trains  in  about 
12  hours.  For  fares,  see  page  xxxi. 

To  (548  M.)  Tampico. 

The  train  runs  toward  the  W.  through  a somewhat  non- 
descript country  devoted  to  agriculture  and  stock-raising. 
As  a rule  the  towns  are  unimportant  and  call  for  no  par- 
ticular mention.  The  first  large  city,  Monterey,  is  described 
at  p.  5.  For  a continuation  of  the  journey  from  Monterey 
to  Tampico  see  Rte.  3,  p.  11. 

Torreon , see  p.  35.  The  trend  of  the  main  line  is  still 
southward,  through  a dusty,  sparsely  settled  region.  Many 
norias,  or  water-wheels  (Moorish  in  name  and  origin)  for 
irrigation,  are  seen.  Curiously  serrated  hills  cut  the  sky-line; 
the  train  crosses  many  dry  water-beds.  For  the  next  200  M. 
the  grade  slopes  gradually  upward  until  the  highest  point  is 
reached  at  Zacatecas  (p.  38).  524  M.  La  Perla. 

529  M.  Mieleras.  We  enter  the  State  of  Durango  (p.  102). 
The  environing  land  is  waterless  and  we  meet  and  pass  water- 
trains,  with  huge  steel  tanks,  that  have  come  from  more 
favored  localities.  537  M.  Nazareno.  545  M.  Picardias.  We 
soon  leave  the  State  of  Durango  and  recross  the  frontier  of 
Coahuila.  533  M.  Jalisco.  The  grade  slopes  steadily  upward. 

563  M.  Jimulco.  Railwaj’  restaurant.  The  deeply  fur- 
rowed, washed-out  land  in  the  environs  bears  evidence  of 
the  power  of  the  downpours  during  the  estacion  de  lluvias. 
The  train  continues  to  cross  a dreary  district,  with  bare, 
brown  hills  always  in  sight.  Many  of  the  stations  are  mere 
flag-stops,  nondescript,  and  desolate  looking.  We  pass  567 


FRESNILLO 


6.  Route.  87 


M.  Otto;  572  M.  Peralta;  579  M.  Noria;  580  M.  Calvo;  599  M. 
La  Mancha;  605  M.  Acacia;  609  M.  Rivas ; 615  M.  Simon;  629 
M.  San  Isidro , and  636  M.  Fuertesy  before  entering  the  State 
of  Zacatecas. 

643  M.  Camacho.  Between  this  point  and  La  Colorada  (see 
below)  many  tall  cacti  are  features  of  the  landscape.  A large 
number  of  the  200  species  said  to  exist  along  the  main  line  of 
the  rly.,  on  the  plateau,  are  visible  from  the  cars.  Promin- 
ent among  them  is  the  tall  Yuca  (p.  lxxxviii),  celebrated 
for  its  love  of  solitude  and  for  its  delicate,  cream-white  flowers. 
We  pass  the  small  stations  of  651  M.  Carlos;  656  M.  Opal; 
668  M.  Guzman;  680  M.  Pacheco , and  689  M.  La  Luz.  The 
hardy  mesquite,  the  grease-wood  (from  which  guayule- rubber 
is  extracted),  and  a host  of  bizarre  desert  plants  flourish  on 
the  sandy,  wind-swept  uplands.  The  brown  adobe  huts  of 
the  peones  so  blend  with  the  jejune  landscape  — merely 
a deepening  of  shade  against  the  sand  — that  at  a distance 
they  are  almost  indistinguishable.  The  region  looks  utterly 
desolate,  but  water  makes  it  blossom  like  the  rose.  Along  the 
bleak  highway  — the  play-ground  of  dancing  whirlwinds 
( torbellinos ) — go  lumbering  and  shrieking  carts,  innocent  of 
grease  and  laden  with  baled  cotton,  sacks  of  grain,  bundles 
of  gray  guayule , and  sacks  of  ore.  Many  mines  lie  off  in  the 
hills,  and  plodding  oxen  draw  cumbersome  carts  with  great 
wooden  wheels  to  and  fro  between  them  and  the  rly.  stations. 

701  M.  La  Colorada  (6,520  ft.).  We  traverse  a rolling  coun- 
try anon  climbing  up  long  gradients,  then  sweeping  around 
the  bases  of  broad,  squat  hills  and  descending  by  long  curves 
into  wide  valleys,  sprinkled  with  cacti  and  many  species  of 
hardy  desert  plants.  707  M.  Edmundo.  709  M.  Cedro.  718 
M.  Cahitas.  725  M.  Mesquite.  731  M.  Gutierrez.  We  cross 
the  Tropic  ( tropico ) of  Cancer.  The  line  continues  to  run 
due  south.  739  M.  Mendosa. 

749  M.  Fresnillo  (7,000  ft.). 

“ Near  Fresnillo  a simple  but  significant  ceremony  was  performed  in 
March,  1884.  The  spot  was  the  meeting- place  of  the  two  lines  of  the 
Mexican  Central  Railway,  one  of  which  had  been  built  N.  from  Mexico 
City,  the  other  southward  from  El  Paso.  Two  locomotives  met  here 
and  ‘ touched  noses’  over  the  last  rail.  The  American  Consul  from  Zaca- 
tecas stood  on  the  pilot  of  the  engine  from  the  S.  and  his  brother,  who 
was  Mexican-born  and  a Mexican  citizen,  on  that  of  the  locomotive 
from  the  North.  The  American  brother  waved  the  Mexican  flag  and  the 
Mexican  brother  the  American  flag.  The  American  shouted,  V V iva  la  Re- 
publica  de  Mexico!'  and  the  Mexican,  * / Viva  Los  Estados  Unidos  del 
Norte!1  ‘ As  we  two  brothers  embrace,  so  may  the  two  sister  republics 
embrace!  ’ It  was  all  spontaneous,  and  most  symbolic  of  the  event. 
The  laying  of  that  last  rail,  a little  to  the  S.  of  the  Tropic  of  Cancer,  com- 
pleted the  first  railway  in  the  world  that  had  been  built  from  the  temper- 
ate zone  down  into  the  tropics.  It  was  one  of  the  most  important  events 
in  the  history  of  Mexico,  for  it  made  her  practically  a part  of  the  world  at 
large,  and  it  brought  the  capitals  of  the  two  largest  republics  in  North 
America  into  close  and  speedy  communication.”  (Sylvester  Baxter,  The 
Cruise  of  a Land  Yacht , Boston,  1891.) 


38  Route  9. 


ZACATECAS 


759  M.  Ojueto.  The  line  traverses  a nopal  forest  sprinkled 
with  many  tall  Yucas  — some  of  them  of  unusual  size. 

763  M.  Caler a.  Rly.  restaurant,  meals  SI.  The  station 
stands  in  the  centre  of  a wade,  w ind-swept  plain : the  old  native 
town,  far  to  the  r.,  is  uninteresting.  Ahead  we  descry  the 
brown  hills  around  and  over  which  wre  climb  to  Zacatecas. 
The  viewT  across  the  valley  to  the  hills  at  the  1.  is  pretty.  Near 
the  station  are  some  Peruvian  pepper-trees.  The  train  runs 
due  S.  on  a perfectly  straight  track  to 

777  M.  Pimienta.  Here  we  begin  the  stiff  climb  into  the 
hills.  The  train  compasses  them  by  long,  sweeping  curves 
around  their  smooth  sides.  As  w^e  ascend,  other  hills,  hitherto 
hidden  from  view,  become  visible  on  the  sky-line.  The  wind 
howis  mournfully  and  the  uplands  hereabout  are  continually 
swept  by  strong  gales.  A ride  of  nine  miles,  slowly  and 
laboriously  compassed,  brings  us  to  786  M.  Zacatecas,  see 
below\  For  a continuation  of  the  journey  see  p.  44. 

9.  Zacatecas. 

Arrival.  The  rly.  station  (PI.  A,  6)  is  on  the  crest  of  a hill  which 
overlooks  the  town  and  many  miles  of  southern  country.  Tram-cars 
meet  all  trains,  run  to  the  central  plaza,  and  pass  the  chief  hotels.  Fare 
5 c.,  time  10  min.  There  are  no  cabs.  Cargadores  (comp.  p.  lii)  charge 
25  c.  for  a sizable  hand-bag  and  50  c.  for  a trunk.  If  the  traveller  has 
much  luggage  he  can  save  money  by  giving  his  checks  to  the  hotel  man- 
ager and  having  his  trunks  brought  to  the  hotel  on  a flat  car  of  the  tram 
line.  This  plan  also  has  the  advantage  of  saving  the  time  spent  in  dicker- 
ing with  the  cargadores , who  are  a parlous  lot.  Hotel  runners  meet  all 
trains.  Most  of  the  hotels  are  within  easy  walking  distance  (down  hill) 
of  the  station. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  Hotel  Colon , Calle  de  la  Merced  (PI.  B,  4), 
German  management  and  cooking;  $3.50  to  $5  a day  Am.  PI.  for  the 
front,  upper  rooms  (preferable),  and  $2  to  $3  for  the  inside  rooms;  Eng- 
lish. French,  German . Spanish  and  Dutch  spoken.  (Horses  for  hire  to  visit 
the  mines  and  neighboring  haciendas.)  — Hotel  de  la  Plaza  y Zacatecano 
Vnidos,  facing  the  Mercado  Principal  (PI.  B,  4);  French  and  Spanish 
cuisine;  English  spoken;  82  to  $2.50  Am.  PI.  — GranHotel  Frances,  facing 
the  Jardin  and  Plaza  Hidalgo  (PI.  B,  3);  French  cuisine:  English,  French 
and  Spanish  spoken;  $2.50  to  $3.50  Am  PI. 

Tramways.  La  Compahia  Zacatecana  de  T ranvias,  S.  A.,  run  cars  fre- 
quently to  various  parts  of  the  city.  By  taking  the  different  cars  and 
riding  to  the  line  terminals  one  can  get  a fair  idea  of  the  city.  Fare, 
between  7 a.  m.  and  7.30  p.  m.  5 c.;  thence  to  10  p.  m.  10  c.;  until  6 a.  m. 
20  c. 

Banks.  Banco  de  Zacatecas.  — Banco  Nacional  de  Mexico. 

Zacatecas  (7,500  ft.),  439  M.  north  of  Mexico  City  and 
200  ft.  higher;  an  important  city  of  33,000  inhabitants  (8th 
in  point  of  population  in  the  Repub.)  and  capital  of  the  state 
of  the  same  name,  lies  in  a narrow  ravine  at  the  foot  of  the 
Grillo  (cricket)  and  Bufa  mountains.  The  houses  are  all 
packed  in  the  gulch  or  perched  on  the  slopes,  and  the  steepish 
streets  and  lanes  — many  of  w’hich  are  pieced  out  with  stone 
stairs  — are  mediaeval  in  aspect  and  highly  picturesque. 
Diminutive  tram-cars  thread  some  of  the  wider  thorough- 


\\  \ \' 


Climate. 


ZACATECAS 


9.  Route.  39 


fares,  and  when  once  at  the  higher  levels  they  return  to  their 
terminals  by  force  of  gravity.  Surface  water  is  scarce  and 
much  of  the  liquid  drunk  in  the  city  is  brought  up  from  deep, 
flooded  mines  in  huge,  dripping,  horse-hide  sacks,  swinging 
at  the  ends  of  ropes  wound  about  primitive  windlasses. 
Up  and  down  the  quaint  streets  go  leather-clad  aguadores, 
or  water-carriers,  who  obtain  the  precious  liquid  from  the 
public  fountains  and  sell  it  from  house  to  house.  As  the 
sanitary  arrangements  leave  much  to  be  desired,  the  prudent 
traveller  will  drink  bottled  or  boiled  water. 

On  an  overcast  day  the  city  is  a study  in  sepia,  with  its 
jejune  walls,  ore-heaps,  arched  bridges,  arroyos  and  criss- 
cross roads.  The  sunlight  picks  out  the  few  white  and  tinted 
houses,  high-lights  them,  and  relieves,  in  a small  way,  the 
melancholy  aspect.  Several  fine  buildings  rescue  the  city 
from  the  commonplace.  The  Palacio  Municipal  (PL  B,  4), 
the  old  Mint  or  Casa  de  Moneda  (PI.  B,  4),  the  (PI.  B,  3) 
Biblioteca  Publica  (with  about  20,000  vols.)  and  the  Tedtro 
Calderon  (PL  B,  4)  are  the  most  noteworthy.  But  more  inter- 
esting still  are  the  old  churches  (see  p.  cxiv),  relics  of  a time 
when  Zacatecas  was  one  of  the  most  wonderful  mining  centres 
on  the  continent.  The  cemetery  ( Panteon  del  Refugio , PL  A,  6), 
at  the  top  of  the  town,  near  the  railway  station,  is  a dreary 
place. 

The  Climate  is  treacherous,  and  the  thin,  chilly  air  adds 
to  the  general  unhealthfulness.  The  cold,  whining  winds 
which  draw  almost  constantly  through  the  gorge  aid  in  the 
development  of  the  maladies  which  attack  the  respiratory 
organs.  The  death  rate  is  high,  and  pneumonia  (pulmonia), 
the  disease  most  dreaded  by  dwellers  at  high  elevations,  is 
prevalent.  The  winter  is  cold  and  uncomfortable;  the  sun 
warms  one'side  of  the  street  but  leaves  a penetrating  coolness 
in  the  shadows  of  the  other  side.  The  traveller  should  insist 
upon  lodgings  which  get  the  sun  the  greater  part  of  the  day. 
The  night  air  should  be  avoided.  Outer  wraps  are  advisable 
at  all  seasons. 


The  name  Zacatecas  is  derived  from  the  Aztec  zacatl  or  zacate , hay, 
and  tlan,  country  or  place  — zacatlan  signifying  the  place  occupied  by 
the  tribe  of  Indians  known  as  Zacatecos.  The  history  of  the  city,  though 
drawn  out  over  many  years,  is  brief  — with  a silver  lining.  The  early 
Spanish  explorers  were  ambulating  divining-rods  and  they  were  not 
long  in  discovering  the  immense  mineral  wealth  bound  up  in  the  moun- 
tains of  the  present  State  of  Zacatecas.  After  a few  decisive  skirmishes 
with  the  Zacatecos  the  district  was  added  to  the  Spanish  Colonial  pos- 
sessions (in  1546)  by  Juan  de  Tolsa,  and  Fray  Geronimo  de  Mendoza. 
Two  years  later  the  present  city  was  founded  by  the  said  Tolsa,  Cristobal 
de  Onale , Baltazdr  Temino  de  Banuelos  and  Diego  de  Ibarra.  Felipe  II 
pronounced  it  a ciudad  April  17,  1585;  and  by  the  royal  cedula  signed 
in  the  Escorial  July  20,  1588,  it  was  given  the  resounding  title  of  Muy 
Noble  y Leal  Ciudad  de  Nuestra  Senora  de  los  Zacatecos  — very  noble 
and  loyal  city  of  Our  Lady  of  the  Zacatecos.  It  proved  its  loyalty  by 
starting  — and  maintaining  — a stream  of  silver  Spainward  that  could 


40  Route  9. 


ZACATECAS 


Cathedral. 


scarcely  have  been  exceeded  by  a modern  pipe-line.  According  to  old 
chroniclers,  the  district  yielded,  between  1548  and  1832,  silver  bullion 
to  the  value  of  667.343,299  pesos  — a very  tidy  sum.  The  workings  were 
very  crude  ; had  they  been  up  to  modern  standards  the  output  would 
perhaps  have  been  doubled.  Ever  since  they  were  discovered  the  metal- 
pregnant  mountains  have  continued  to  yield  enormous  quantities  of 
precious  metals.  The  old  mines  — with  which  the  ground  beneath  the 
city  is  honeycombed  — are  still  worked,  and  new  claims  are  being  con- 
stantly added.  More  than  a hundred  mines  are  in  operation,  and  the 
annual  output  of  silver  aggregates  $6,000,000.  (Comp.  p.  lxxxviii.) 

A visit  to  one  of  the  deep  mines  (permit  easily  obtained) 
is  interesting.  Some  of  the  very  deep  tunnels  are  apt  . to  be 
uncomfortably  hot.  Primitive  methods  are  still  employed 
and  the  ores  are  brought  up  by  means  of  crude  windlasses, 
or  in  raw-hide  sacks  slung  on  the  backs  of  peones  who,  with 
a 100  or  200  lb.  weight,  will  climb  a rickety  chicken-ladder, 
that  would  make  a steeple-Jack  dizzy.  Certain  of  the  straight- 
shaft  mines  are  entered  in  a bucket  attached  to  the  end  of 
a long  rope  operated  by  a hurro-  or  peon- power  windlass. 
Ladies  do  not  find  these  trips  to  their  liking.  Some  of  the 
mines  have  semi-horizontal  tunnels  along  which  run  minia- 
ture railways,  while  others  use  electric  hoists.  One’s  consul 
or  a resident  friend  will  be  useful  in  securing  permits  and 
acting  as  interpreter. 

Tne  first  church  erected  in  Zacatecas  was  La  Parroquia 
(in  1559),  which  stood  on  the  site  of  the  present  cathedral. 
The  Cathedral  (PI.  B,  4)  itself  was  begun  in  1612  • the  first 
service  was  held  Dec.  S,  1625,  and  the  edifice  was  completed 
and  dedicated  (to  Nuestra  Sehora  de  la  Asuncion)  Aug.  15, 
1752.  The  funds  for  its  construction  were  obtained  from  a 
tax  levied  on  the  silver  output  of  certain  mines  underhung 
the  city.  Its  income  — derived  from  the  same  source  — soon 
became  so  great  that  all  Europe  was  ransacked  for  pictures 
and  ornaments  for  its  decoration.  One  embellishment  was  a 
massive  font  of  solid  silver,  valued  at  more  than  one  hundred 
thousand  pesos.  In  the  Spanish  Colonial  days  the  Cathedral 
was  a blaze  of  gold  and  silver  candelabra,  costly  vestments, 
and  beautiful  pictures  — the  latter  brought  from  some  of 
the  finest  collections  of  the  Old  World. 

To  certain  of  these  wealthy  churches  in  the  midst  of  rich  silver-mining 
regions.  Mexico  owes  many  of  the  fine  paintings  and  art  antiques  now 
extant  in  the  Republic.  Rich  miners  endowed  some  of  the  churches  with 
fabulous  sums  and  not  a little  of  the  money  went  abroad  to  be  invested 
in  adornments  for  them.  Unfortunately  much  of  this  wealth  disappeared 
from  the  churches  soon  after  the  Reform  I^aws  decreed  the  sequestra- 
tion and  nationalization,  of  church  properties.  (Comp.  p.  ccxix.) 

Two  years  after  the  See  was  established  (Jan.  26,  1862) 
at  Zacatecas,  the  present  ch.  was  consecrated  as  the  Cathedral. 
It  remains  the  most  interesting  edifice  in  the  city,  and  the 
richly  carved  portico  is  perhaps  one  of  the  most  elaborate  in 
the  Republic.  Its  style  “ is  similar  to  that  of  Santa  Monica 
in  Guadalajara  (p.  166),  but  much  intensified  — a sort  of 


Sarapes. 


ZACATECAS 


9.  Route.  41 


Plateresque  development  elaborated  in  the  highest  degree 
with  most  intricate  ornament.  The  side  entrance,  less  exuber- 
ant than  the  front,  belongs  to  another  period  than  the  latter, 
and  suggests  a less  over-developed  Plater esqueP  The  dark 
red  sandstone  of  the  facade  bears  the  marks  of  time.  Life- 
size  figures  of  Christ  and  the  Apostles  stand  in  niches  above 
the  entrance,  which  is  a striking  example  of  early  ecclesiastical 
architecture.  The  completed  tower  and  the  handsome  tiled 
dome  are  visible  from  nearly  all  over  the  city.  The  interior 
has  lately  been  decorated  in  such  a way  as  to  deprive  it  of 
all  interest  for  travellers. 

“The  handsome  Church  of  Santo  Domingo  (PL  B.  3),  orig- 
inally the  Jesuit  Church  known  as  La  Compama , is  an  ad- 
mirable example  of  the  Spanish  Baroque , peculiarly  the  style 
of  the  Jesuits.  The  inscription  on  the  facade,  to  the  effect 
that  it  was  begun  in  1746  and  completed  in  1769,  marks  it 
as  an  example  of  remarkable  celerity  in  construction.  The  in- 
terior is  fairly  well  preserved  in  its  original  condition,  marred 
only  by  the  demolition  of  the  magnificent  old  high  altar  with 
its  C hurrigueresque  reredos  (comp.  p.  cxxxii),  to  be  replaced 
by  a commonplace  modern  construction.  The  excellent  mural 
paintings  remain  intact,  together  with  the  co-lateral  altars, 
which  are  peculiarly  interesting  from  the  way  in  which  the 
Renaissance  lines  upon  which  the  C hurrigueresque  ornament 
has  been  developed  give  form  to  the  work.  As  usual,  the  great 
mass  is  in  gold,  accented  by  the  polychrome  of  the  figures 
that  stand  both  detached  and  in  relief.  The  octagonal  sacristy 
is  a strikingly  handsome  room  of  good  proportions  and  rich 
decorations.  The  arabesque  ornament,  together  with  the 
representation  of  the  instruments  of  the  Passion  that  cover 
the  walls,  is  painted  in  brilliant,  positive  colors  upon  canvas.” 

La  Capilla  de  los  Remedios , called  also  El  Patrocinio,  erected 
in  1728  on  the  summit  of  El  Cerro  de  la  Bufa  (PI.  C,  3),  a high 
hill  at  the  S.  of  the  city,  is  interesting  for  the  chapel  which 
contains  an  image  of  a Virgin  to  whom  the  Indians  attribute 
miraculous  powers  of  healing.  They  make  long  pilgrimages 
hither  to  implore  her  protection,  or  in  payment  of  promises 
made  in  moments  of  sickness  or  danger.  A well-defined  road 
leads  up  to  the  summit  of  the  Bufa,  which  should  be  ascended 
if  only  for  the  sake  of  the  magnificent  view.  A meteorolog- 
ical observatory  also  stands  on  the  hilltop. 

Churches  of  minor  importance  are  San  Juan  de  Dios,  San 
Aqustin , San  Francisco  (at  present  owned  by  the  Presbyterian 
Mission  Society),  La  Merced  and  a newr  ch.  now  being  built 
near  the  railway  station. 

In  the  Plaza  Hidalgo  (PI.  B,  3)  is  a handsome  equestrian 
statue  in  memory  of  General  Ortega,  a military  hero.  The 
bronze  bust  of  General  Miguel  Anza  was  unveiled  in  1908. 

Zacatecas  has  a reputation  for  its  fine  sarapes;  some  of  the 


42  Route  9. 


GUADALUPE 


Chicomoztoc. 


old  blue-and-white  ones  (prices  vary  from  $20  to  $100  accord- 
ing to  quality  and  age)  make  desirable  souvenirs.  The  cheaper 
grades,  which  can  be  bought  for  $3  to  $15,  are  on  sale  at  all 
the  shops.  The  better  kinds  are  generally  bought  up  by  the  < 
dealers  in  antiques  at  Mexico  City. 

Diligences  run  hence  to  a number  of  near-by  towns  and  haciendas. 
Consult  the  hotel  manager  or  the  Guia  OfLcial. 

Guadalupe  (PI.  E,  5),  a suburb  at  the  southern  end  of  the 
valley,  at  the  mountain  base,  is  reached  easiest  by  tram-cars 
(frequently  from  the  plaza,  in  30  min.),  which  run  by  gravity  j 
through  narrow  tortuous  streets,  past  many  mine  tunnels, 
slag-piles  and  primitive  smelters.  The  trip  back  is  a laborious 
one  (for  the  traction  animals)  and  consumes  about  45  min. 
As  the  cars  sweep  round  the  sharp  corners  the  driver  toots 
a horn  as  a warning  to  pedestrians.  The  cars  stop  near  the 
chief  attraction  of  the  place,  the  Church  of  Nuestra  Sehora 
de  Guadalupe , a large  cruciform  structure,  with  two  fine  I 
cimborios,  a pair  of  quaint  belfries  and  some  handsomely  j 
decorated  chapels.  The  Colegio  w^as  founded  in  1707  by  Fray 
Antonio  M argil  de  Jesus,  an  Hermano  of  the  Colegio  de  la 
Santa  Cruz  of  Queretaro.  The  present  ch.  dates  from  1721; 
the  interior  has  suffered  redecoration.  Prior  to  the  Leges  de  la 
Reforma  (p.  ccxix)  this  ch.  possessed  some  magnificent  silver 
ornaments,  the  product  of  the  rich  Zacatecas  mines.  Some 
of  the  old  pictures  still  remain,  notably  a fine  Last  Supper  by 
Antonio  de  Torres  (1720).  Other  pictures  by  the  same  painter 
are  San  Francisco  on  the  Monte  Alverna,  and  a striking  San 
Buenaventura  receiving  the  Sacrament. 

Excursions:  One  of  the  most  interesting  is  to  the  ruins 
known  as  Los  Edificios  (the  edifices)  on  the  Hacienda  La 
Quemada  (the  burned  one),  36  miles  S.-E.  of  the  city.  These 
ruins  are  among  the  least  known  and  least  visited  in  Mexico, 
and  are  supposed  to  be  the  remains  of  the  ancient  city  of 
Chicomoztoc  (the  seven  caves),  founded  by  the  Aztecs  during 
their  period  of  wandering  in  search  of  the  Valley  of  Anahuac. 
They  were  the  last  native  tribe  to  people  the  Valley  of  Mexico 
and  they  are  supposed  to  have  emigrated  from  their  original 
home  ( Aztlan ),  somewhere  near  the  Gulf  of  California,  in 
1160.  History  records  that  after  crossing  the  Colorado  (red)  j 
River  they  reached  the  Gila  River,  in  Arizona,  founding  there 
a city  called  Casas  Grandes  (big  houses),  the  ruins  of  wrhich 
still  remain.  Continuing  their  peregrinating  southward,  they 
established  in  the  Mexican  State  of  Chihuahua  another  Casas 
Grandes  (see  p.  54).  In  time  this  stronghold  was  abandoned 
and  the  restless  tribe  moved  westward  toward  Cidiacan  (then 
H ueicolhuacan) , capital  of  the  State  of  Sinaloa.  Here  they 
remained  three  years,  leaving  behind  them,  when  they  again 
took  up  the  march,  a huge  statue  of  H uitzilo pochtli , the  Aztec 


CHICOMOZTOC 


9.  Route.  43 


war-god,  similar  to  the  one  in  the  Mexico  Museum.  Travel- 
ling toward  the  south-east,  they  came  to  Durango,  where  they 
met  a tribe  supposed  to  be  the  Zacatecos,  whom  they  attacked 
and  defeated.  They  remained  but  a short  time  on  the  plains 
of  Chimalco,  from  which  point  they  moved  on  to  the  site  of 
the  present  Edificios,  which  they  are  believed  to  have  built 
in  1170. 

In  time  six  Indian  tribes  are  known  to  have  branched  out 
from  this  stronghold,  like  bees  swarming  from  a hive.  To 
historians  they  are  known  as  the  Chichimecas , the  Tepenecas , 
Colhuas,  Chalcas,  Tlahuicas  and  Tlaxcaltecas.  They  all  moved 
southward,  the  Aztecs , or  Mexico , remaining.  Here  the  latter 
dwelt  for  nine  years,  when,  abandoning  Chicomoztoc,  they 
zig-zagged  across  the  country,  always  trending  south,  until, 
in  1196  they  reached  the  famous  city  of  Tula  (the  Tollan 
of  the  Toltecs).  From  this  spot  they  conquered  the  Toltecs, 
drove  them  from  the  country  and  then  spread  over  the  Valley 
of  Mexico,  where  some  centuries  later  the  Spaniards  found 
their  descendants. 

The  Ruins  of  Chicomoztoc,  known  also  as  Las  Ruinas 
de  la  Quemada,  stand  on  an  eminence  of  a mountain  ridge 
7,600  ft.  above  sea-level,  in  the  district  of  Villanueva.  They 
form  an  extensive  group,  which  is  divided  into  three  parts 
and  designated  as  La  Ciudadela  (the  citadel),  El  Palacio  (the 
palace)  and  El  Templo  (the  temple).  The  dry,  rarefied  air 
has  preserved  them  much  in  the  same  state  as  when  the  Span- 
iards discovered  them  in  1535.  Architecturally  they  compare 
unfavorably  with  the  ruins  of  Palenque  (in  Chiapas)  and 
Chicken  Itza  (in  Yucatan),  yet  the  traveller  stands  amazed  at 
their  solidity. 

The  remains  of  streets,  dwellings,  temples,  towers  and  store- 
houses extend  over  a vast  area.  The  majority  of  the  houses 
are  constructed  of  a hard  stone  held  together  by  a cement 
made  of  a peculiar  red  clay  and  corn-husks.  An  abundance 
of  limpid  water  still  flows  from  several  of  the  city  fountains 
and  forms  the  only  active  principle  in  this  silent  city  of  the 
dead.  Carved  idols  of  many  forms  and  sizes,  fragments  of 
pottery,  obsidian  knives,  chiselled  flag-stones,  arrow-heads 
and  human  bones  lie  scattered  about  the  place.  In  a letter 
written  by  one  of  the  Spanish  discoverers  in  1535,  we  read: 
“They  discovered  a large  depopulated  city  of  sumptuous 
edifices  built  of  stone  and  lime.  The  streets  and  plazas  were 
wide,  well  laid  out  and  of  imposing  appearance.  A quarter 
of  a league  from  the  city  stood  a cue , or  tower,  with  a fine 
calzada  (roadway)  leading  therefrom  to  another  tower  stand- 
ing at  some  distance.  There  were  four  towers  in  all,  with  their 
connecting  calzadas,  and  they  guarded  the  four  corners  of  the 
city.  In  the  centre  was  a cue  of  great  height,  and  fronting  it 
was  a fountain  pouring  forth  a stream  of  limpid  water  very 


44  Route  9. 


STATE  OF  ZACATECAS 


pretty  to  behold  ” — a stream  that  has  run  perchance  for 
hundreds  of  years  and  which  may  continue  to  run  forever. 

By  starting  early  from  Zac.  one  can  reach  the  ruins  after  a day’s  ride 
on  horseback.  Excursions  can  be  planned  by  the  hotel  manager,  who  ]| 
will  furnish  the  horses  and  a guide.  Lodgings  and  food  can  be  obtained  i 
at  the  Hacienda  of  La  Quemada,  but  intending  visitors  should  write 
ahead  for  rooms.  A day  can  be  well  spent  examining  the  ruins  and  the 
return  can  be  made  the  third  day.  The  complete  journey  should  not  ! 
cost  above  $20.  A woman  would  find  the  trip  somewhat  arduous. 

If  the  aim  be  merely  to  get  a view  of  Indian  ruins,  the  traveller  is  | 
recommended  to  forego  this  trip  and  to  visit  the  more  accessible  and  very 
interesting  ruins  of  Xochicalco.  near  Cuernavaca , or  Mitla.  near  Oaxaca . 
The  latter  are  the  more  interesting. 

Zacatecas,  with  a pop.  of  462,190  and  an  area  of  63,3S6 
sqr.  kiloms.,  one  of  the  richest  and  most  highly  mineralized  of 
the  interior  Mexican  States,  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  Coahuila , 
on  the  E.  by  San  Luis  Potosi , on  the  S.  by  Aguascalientes  i 
and  Jalisco  and  on  the  W.  by  Durango.  It  is  situated  on  the 
Great  Central  Plateau  and  is  one  of  the  most  mountainous  j 
regions  in  the  Republic  — its  mean  altitude  being  7,500  ft. 
The  principal  mountains  are  Mazapil,  NoviLlos , Calabozalf  ] 
Tecolote,  Pichihualtepec,  Pitiquitas,  San  Pedro , Tetillas,  Mes - ; 
quital , Chacuaco,  Melilla,  Chapultepec  and  the  Pico  de  Teyra. 

The  Climate  is  cold  in  the  highlands  (where  bronchial 
affections  are  common),  temperate  on  the  Mt.  slopes  and  hot 
on  the  sandy  plains. 

The  Fauna  and  Flora  are  limited,  as  are  also  the  rivers, 
chief  among  which  is  the  Rio  Grande  de  N ieves  and  the  Juchipila.  \ 

The  history  of  the  state  is  virtually  that  of  the  capital  city, 
described  at  p.  38.  Mining  and  stock-raising  are  the  chief  in-  I 
dustries.  The  Zacatecas  region  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  richest 
mineral  belts  in  the  world.  The  Sierra  de  Zacatecas  has  pro- 
duced almost  fabulous  wealth  in  gold  and  silver,  as  well  as  1 
minor  quantities  of  mercury,  iron,  copper,  zinc,  lead,  coal, 
bismuth  and  salt.  Hundreds  of  mines  have  been  in  operation 
since  the  Spaniards  first  invaded  the  region  nearly  four  cen- 
turies  ago,  and  the  amount  of  silver  ore  extracted  since  that  j 
period  is  enormous:  the  total  value  is  estimated  at  over  a 
thousand  million  pesos. 

Zacatecas , see  p.  38.  We  get  a fine  retrospective  view  of 
Zacatecas  (much  like  a Judean  town)  as  we  descend  the  rap-  j 
idly  widening  valley  toward  Guadalupe.  The  queer  old  walled  j 
cemetery,  a gruesome  spot,  is  left  behind  on  the  r.  Piles  of 
tailings,  mine-shafts,  windlasses,  kilns  and  heaps  of  ore  fresh  | 
from  the  bosom  of  the  hills  are  seen  on  the  1.  We  cross  sev-  j 
eral  gulches  and  sweep  round  many  curves  before  reaching 
the  lower  level  of  the  valley. 

792  M.  Guadalupe  (p.  42).  The  town  lies  to  the  1.  of  the 
track,  with  the  old  church  and  colegio  in  the  foreground. 
Fine  view  of  the  sloping  valley  on  the  left. 


AGUASCALIENTES 


10.  Route.  45 


798  M.  San  Geronimo , at  the  bottom  of  a wide  valley.  We 
climb  the  smooth  side  of  the  hill  beyond  and  emerge  at  801 
M.  Trancoso,  on  a beautiful  upland  plain  which  affords  splendid 
and  uninterrupted  views.  815  M.  Berriozabal.  We  enter  the 
State  of  Aguascalientes.  824  M.  Soledad.  831  M.  Punta. 

837  M.  Rincon  de  Romos  (or  Victoria  de  Calpulapam) , chief 
town  of  the  distrito  of  the  same  name;  43  kilom.  from  the 
capital  of  the  state  ( Aguascalientes ) and  an  important  mar- 
ket for  Mexican  produce. 

A branch  line  ( Ramal  de  Tepezald)  runs  hence  through  the  towns  of 
Julian  and  Tepezala  to  17  Kilom.  Cobre  (one  train  daily  in  14  hr.,  con- 
sult the  Guia  Oficial),  in  the  centre  of  a mining  region. 

We  traverse  a level  country,  passing  the  small  stations  of 
842  M.  Pabellon;  846  M.  Las  Animas ; 853  M.  Chicalote.  8G1  M. 

Aguascalientes,  see  below. 

From  Aguascalientes,  vid  Leon,  Silao,  Irapuato,  Celaya  and 
Queretaro  to  Mexico  City,  see  Rte.  31,  p.  122. 


10.  Aguascalientes. 

Railway  restaurant;  meals,  SI.  Electric  cars  meet  all  trains,  fare  to 
the  town  (about  1 M.  to  the  right  of  the  station)  6 c.  The  service  is  so 
satisfactory  that  cabs  rarely  compete.  Hand-luggage  only  may  be  taken 
on  the  tram-cars,  which  pass  by  the  chief  hotels.  Checks  for  trunks  (50  c.) 
should  be  handed  over  to  the  hotel  manager. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  No  omnibuses.  Hotel  Bellini , Primera  Olle 
de  Victoria  No.  8,  American  management  and  cooking,  S4  to  S6  Am.  PI., 
according  to  location  of  room.  Upper  rooms  preferable. 

American  Newspapers  and  magazines,  post-cards,  curios,  etc.,  A.  B. 
Culver , north  side  of  Plaza. 

Cabs.  In  the  town  50  c.  an  hr.  or  fraction.  Double  after  10  p.  m. 

Tram-cars  (electric)  connect  the  town  with  several  attractive  suburbs, 
and  run  at  frequent  intervals.  Fares  moderate. 

Banks.  Banco  de  Aguascalientes.  — Banco  Nacional  de  Mexico. 

Baths  (comp.  p.  lii).  The  town  is  noted  for  its  excellent  thermal 
baths.  As  bathing  establishments  frequently  change  ownership  the 
traveller  is  counselled  to  confer  with  the  hotel  manager  and  learn  which  is 
the  best  and  cleanest.  Those  frequented  by  the  lower  and  middle  classes 
should  be  rigorously  avoided.  Prices  vary  from  25c.  to  $1,  according  to 
the  lujo  or  style  of  the  equipment. 

Aguascalientes  (hot  waters),  6,280  ft.  above  sea-level, 
with  a pop.  of  56,500;  capital  of  the  State  of  Aguascalientes , 
364  M.  N.  of  Mexico  City,  with  telegraphs,  telephones,  com- 
fortable hotels,  good  schools,  hospitals  and  public  libraries, 
is  celebrated  for  its  almost  perfect  climate,  for  its  fine  thermal 
springs  and  its  delicious  fruits.  It  is  sometimes  referred  to 
as  La  Ciudad  Perforada  (the  perforated  city)  because  of  an 
extensive  system  of  tunnels  beneath  it.  This  labyrinth  of 
catacombs,  excavated  by  some  pre-historic,  unknown  tribe, 
has  never  been  thoroughly  explored,  although  it  is  known 
that  the  tunnels  are  subdivided  into  many  ramifications,  some 
of  the  latter  used  as  cess-pools.  It  is  said  that  neither  Toltec , 
Aztec  nor  Tarascon  annals  refer  to  them  or  to  their  builders. 


46  Route  10.  AGUASCALIENTES  History. 

The  people  who  dug  them  evidently  followed  some  well-de- 
fined plan,  for  at  intervals  throughout  the  city  the  tunnels 
connect  at  the  surface  by  shafts  which  formerly  admitted 
light  and  air.  Into  these  mysterious  wells  the  thoughtless 
now  cast  their  refuse,  and  at  no  distant  date  this  strange 
handiwork  of  a forgotten  race  will  perhaps  be  filled  in  and 
forgotten. 

History.  The  first  historical  records  of  A guascalientes  date  from  1522. 
soon  after  the  downfall  of  Tenochtitldn  (p.  clxxxviii).  No  sooner  was  the 
Valley  of  Mexico  in  possession  of  the  Spaniards  than  Cortes  sent. the  re- 
nowned Pedro  de  Alvarado  northward  at  the  head  of  an  exploring  expe- 
dition composed  of  Spaniards,  their  Tlascalan  allies  and  a few  conquered 
Aztecs.  They  were  met  near  the  Cerro  de  los  Gallos  (cockerel  mountain) 
by  a host  of  fierce,  well-armed  Indians,  and  a sanguinary  battle  ensued. 
Tradition  has  it  that  Alvarado  found  himself  hard -pushed  and  was  forced 
to  bury  a vast  amount  of  spoils  accumulated  during  his  journey  hither. 
The  credulous  among  the  lower  classes  make  frequent  efforts  to  unearth 
this  alleged  treasure. 

In  1575  Felipe  II  issued  a decree  permitting  the  founding  of  the  present 
city  under  the  title  of  Asuncion  de  Aguascalientes.  The  land  was  given 
to  certain  Spanish  nobles  with  the  proviso  that  they  would  wrest  it  from 
the  Indians  and  colonize  it!  The  first  buildings  were  some  small  adobe 
forts  and  dwellings  and  a little  chapel,  erected  on  the  site  of  the  present 
church  of  San  Diego.  For  many  years  the  town  was  but  a stockaded  out- 
post in  a wilderness  which  swarmed  with  hostile  savages  — the  outraged 
Chichimecs , who  waged  a relentless  war  against  the  invaders.  Those  of 
the  Indians  who  escaped  extermination  were  finally  subdued.  In  1576 
the  village  was  visited  by  the  terrible  Matlazahuatl  (plague)  and  nearly 
wiped  out.  It  was  not  until  1596  that  it  attained  any  importance.  In 
161 1 it  was  christened  Villa  de  Nuestra  Seiiora  de  la  Asuncion  de  Aguas- 
calientes hot  water  town  of  Our  Lady  of  the  Assumption),  and  in  1S24 
it  was  raised  to  the  category  of  a ciudad.  It  was  made  the  capital  of 
the  State  of  Aguascalientes  (p.  47)  in  1835. 

The  real  importance  of  the  place  dates  from  a period  early  in  1800 
when  rich  silver-mines  were  discovered  at  Tepezald.  Coincidently  the 
Jesuits  took  a keen  interest  in  the  spiritual  welfare  of  the  people,  and 
churches  rose  beneath  the  hands  of  the  Indian  converts.  The  city  throve 
and  to-day  it  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  and  promising  in  the  Republic. 

The  Climate  is  mild  and  the  death  rate  of  the  city  is  unu- 
sually low.  It  is  highest  during  the  annual  fiesta  de  San  Marcos , 
which  begins  usually  in  April  and  ends  in  May.  The  city  is 
then  so  crowded  with  pilgrims  — many  of  whom  bring  hordes 
of  strange  microbes  with  them  — that  hotel  lodgings  are  diffi- 
cult to  obtain  and  the  streets  are  filled  with  sleeping  pelados. 
Another  annual  fiesta  is  held  in  October.  Travellers  intending 
to  visit  the  city  at  these  times  should  arrange  for  lodgings 
in  advance. 

The  benign  climate  makes  the  region  a sort  of  open-air 
sanitarium  and  the  rly.  maintains  a well-appointed  hospital 
(handsome  garden)  here  (to  the  1.  of  the  station)  for  its  em- 
ployees. 

The  making  of  drawn-linen  (comp.  p.  lxix)  is  an  important 
industry.  Some  of  this  work  (usually  of  an  inferior  quality) 
is  offered  for  sale  (bargaining  necessary)  at  the  railway  sta- 
tion. The  best  work  nearly  always  finds  its  way  to  the  an- 
tique shops  of  Mexico  City.  Other  manufacturing  industries 


STATE  OF  AGUASCALIENTES  10.  Rte.  47 


are  cotton-mills,  tobacco-factories,  pottery-works,  tanneries, 
wine-making  and  whatnot.  Tiny  horse-hair  hats  are  made 
in  limited  quantities  for  sale  to  tourists.  Sarapes  of  mediocre 
quality  are  also  a product  of  the  place;  as  a rule  the  colors 
are  too  pronounced  to  please  the  foreign  taste. 

Numerous  pretty  plazas  embowered  in  luxuriant  vegeta- 
tion dot  the  city:  chief  among  them  is  El  Jar  din  de  San  Marcos 
(named  for  the  patron  saint  of  the  city) ; El  Alameda  de  Ojo 
Caliente  (hot-springs  park),  the  Alameda  Francisco  Hornedo 
(much  frequented)  and  that  of  Porfirio  Diaz,  General  Zara- 
goza, La  Merced,  San  Diego,  etc.  The  striking  Ionic  column 
in  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion  was  erected  about  1800 
for  a bust  of  the  Emperor  Charles  IV,  to  commemorate  his 
advent  to  the  throne.  For  political  reasons  a bust  of  Fer- 
nando VII  was  placed  thereon  instead,  but  it  was  thrown 
down  and  demolished  during  the  war  for  Independence.  The 
column  now  serves  to  commemorate  the  founding  of  the  city. 

El  Palacio  de  Gobierno  — the  old  feudal  castle  of  the 
Marques  de  Guadalupe  — and  the  Palacio  Municipal  con- 
tain nothing  of  interest.  The  first  school  opened  in  the  town 
was  due  to  Francisco  Rivero,  in  whose  honor  an  annual  fiesta 
is  held.  The  Church  of  San  Marcos  contains  a good  picture  — 
The  Adoration  of  the  Kings  — by  Jose  Alzibar  (comp.  p. 
clii),  and  that  of  San  Diego  one  depicting  scenes  in  the  life 
of  San  Francisco,  by  Juan  Correa  (p.  cxlix).  The  somewhat 
bizarre  Church  of  San  Antonio  (said  to  have  cost  $800,000) 
recalls  to  mind  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Basil,  at  Moscow.  There 
are  a number  of  minor  churches  of  no  particular  interest.  The 
bells  of  some  of  them  are  said  to  contain  a large  percentage 
of  silver  in  their  composition. 

The  State  of  Aguascalientes,  with  a population  of  105,000  and 
an  area  of  7,644  sqr.  kilom.,  is  one  of  the  smallest  of  the  Mexican  Confed- 
erate States  and  occupies  a fine  region  on  the  Great  Central  Plateau, 
some  6,000  ft.  above  sea-level.  By  reason  of  this  altitude  the  climate  is 
temperate  and  salubrious.  The  adjoining  State  of  Zacatecas  almost  sur- 
rounds Aguascalientes  on  the  N.-W.  and  N.-E.,  while  TaZLsco  del im ns  iton 
the  S.-E.  and  S.  It  is  usually  fertile,  of  magnificent  promise,  and  is  cele- 
brated for  its  many  Mineral  Springs  — San  Nicolas  de  la  Canter  a (St. 
Nicholas  of  the  quarry),  Ojo  Caliente , Ojo  Calientillo  (little  hot  spring), 
Colombo  and  15  others  of  minor  importance.  The  chief  constituents  of 
these  thermal  waters  are  sulphate  of  soda,  S.  of  lime,  carbonate  of  lime, 
chloride  of  sodium,  magnesia,  traces  of  organic  materials  and  carbonic 
and  sulphuric  acids.  The  average  temperature  is  38°  Centigrade. 

Each  of  the  four  political  divisions  of  the  state  produces  maize,  beans, 
wheat,  barley,  a variety  of  sweet  potato  known  locally  as  Carnote  (of 
which  a delightful  sweetmeat  is  made),  green  peppers,  chick-peas,  pea- 
nuts ( cacahuates ) and  a host  of  minor  products.  Fine  vineyards  ( vinas ) 
dot  certain  sections  of  the  state,  and  the  cultivation  of  white-mulberry 
leaves  as  food  for  silkworms  is  a growing  source  of  wealth.  Large  quan- 
tities of  raisins  are  cured,  and  a grape  conserve  ( uvate ) is  exported  in 
quantities.  One  of  the  best-known  wines  is  Calvillo.  A delicious  variety 
of  fig,  fine  pears,  apples,  peaches,  apricots,  sweet  and  sour  limes  and 
lemons,  oranges,  watermelons,  custard-apples,  alligator-pears,  and  an 
extensive  list  of  melons  (of  which  there  are  48  kinds)  come  to  fruition 
throughout  the  year.  Some  very  excellent  honey  is  produced  and  shipped 


48  Rte.  11.  AGU ASC ALIEN TES  TO  TAMPICO 


ii.  From  Aguascalientes  to  Tampico,  via 
San  Luis  Potosi. 

421  M.  Trains  leave  from  the  main-line  stations  (railway  restaurants) 
at  both  Aguascalientes  and  San  Luis  Potosi.  Pullman  cars  from  Mexico 
City  via  S.  L.  P.  For  fares  see  the  mileage  rate  at  p.  xxxi.  The  best 
scenery  on  the  line  is  between  Cdrdenas  and  Tomasopo. 

The  line  runs  toward  the  N.-E.  across  a rolling  country  ; 
dotted  here  and  there  with  unimportant  towns.  To  51  M.  La  \ 
Honda , the  grade  is  upward,  thence  it  gradually  descends  to 
139  M.  San  Luis  Potosi,  an  important  mining  centre  described 
at  p.  17.  From  this  point  (6,290  ft.)  it  slopes  steadily  toward  | 
the  Gulf;  gradually,  to  256  M.  Cdrdenas  (4,000  ft.),  on  the 
edge  of  the  high  plateau,  thence- sharply  to  287  M.  Tomasopo  \ 
(1,330  ft.),  at  the  foot  of  the  first  steep  descent.  The  scenery 
along  the  31  miles  from  the  tableland  to  the  valley  ranks  with 
the  finest  on  the  continent.  The  transition  from  the  arid  mesa 
to  the  lush,  semi-tropics  is  as  abrupt  as  it  is  beguiling.  The 
Tomasopo  Canon  is  one  of  the  finest  stretches  on  the  fine.  A 
charming  waterfall  pours  into  it  from  the  hills  on  the  left. 
L’sually  the  train  traverses  this  section  during  the  early  morn- 
ing hours,  and  at  this  time  the  country  is  dew-drenched  and 
beautiful.  The  valleys  and  the  sloping  hillsides  produce  a riot 
of  vegetation,  most  of  which  glows  with  some  variety  of  lovely 
tropical  flower.  A host  of  brilliant  tropical  birds  enliven  the  I 
landscape,  and  almost  deafen  one  with  their  trillings  when  the  | 
train  stops  at  some  wayside  station.  Lithe,  graceful  bamboos  I 
rear  their  plumed  heads  above  the  rank  undergrowth  and  in 
turn  are  topped  by  lordly  palms.  In  places  these  grow  asj 
thick  as  pines  in  a New  England  grove.  The  rich  stretches 
of  sugar-cane  which  occasionally  dot  the  region  advertise  j 
the  possibilities  of  reclamation  and  cultivation.  Picturesque  i 
ranchiios  spread  over  some  of  the  hillsides,  the  owners  waging; 
a perpetual  war  with  the  ever-restless  jungle.  In  the  little 
clearings  surrounding  their  modest  homes  one  notes  a variety 
of  luscious  tropical  fruits  — oranges,  big  yellow  grapefruit  j 
( torojijas ) seemingly  ready  to  burst  with  their  overload  of  rich 
juice  and  pulp;  zapotes , papayas , mangos , bananas,  chirwioyas , 
cgi  acates,  v ameyes  and  a host  of  minor  beauties.  The  entire 
district  recalls  the  primitive,  biblical  region  flowing  with  milk 
and  honey,  and  only  awaiting  the  hand  of  man  to  make  it 
extraordinarily  productive.  Many  of  the  trees  bear  as  un- 
welcome guests  orchids  of  glowing  and  exquisite  colors.  The 
epiphytal  group  (compare  p.  564)  is  widely  represented  here- 
about, and  perhaps  some  day  will  be  sought  for  by  the  lovers 
of  the  thousands  of  varieties  of  highly  valuable  orchids  for 
which  Mexico  is  noted. 


Ebano. 


TAMPICO 


11.  Route.  49 


317  M.  Micos.  The  name  would  imply  that  there  are 
monkeys  or  apes  in  the  environs.  A cluster  of  quaint,  straw- 
thatched  huts  stand  on  a series  of  irregular  terraces  at  the 
right  of  the  rly.  line,  and  recall  certain  views  in  distant  Japan. 
The  environs  are  charmingly  tropical.  Green  parrots  are 
guests  in  some  of  the  houses.  Beyond  the  hamlet,  at  the  left, 
a beautiful  cascade  of  crystal  water  dances  gaily  down  through 
a tangled  green  gorge.  Many  of  the  jungle  trees  are  festooned 
with  Spanish  Moss  ( Tillandsia  asneoides).  The  train  still 
descends,  and  the  consequently  increased  pressure  on  the 
travellers’  ear-drums  causes  a fluttering  until  the  Eustachian 
tube  adjusts  itself  to  the  lower  level.  The  rly.  winds  around 
the  broad  shoulders  of  verdure-covered  hills,  and  in  its  twists 
and  turns  reveals  far-reaching  vistas  across  deep  valleys  to 
higher  hills  on  the  distant  skyline.  Big  game  roams  the 
region  and  affords  sport  to  many  Tampico  residents. 

The  region  hereabout  is  known  as  the  Huasteca  potosina 
(the  Huasteca  district  of  the  State  of  San  Luis  Potosi),  to  dif- 
ferentiate it  from  the  Huasteca  veracruzana  which,  lies  south- 
ward from  the  border  of  the  Panuco  River  (mentioned  at 
page  50#).  Wild  olives,  precious  woods,  a wealth  of  luscious  and 
varied  tropical  fruits,  and  a host  of  tropical  flowers  with  many 
orchidaceous  plants  in  evidence  are  features  of  the  country. 
Quite  possibly  a wealth  of  golden  oil  lies  beneath  the  surface, 
for  the  region  hence  to  the  Gulf  is  in  the  oil-bearing  district. 
We  cross  several  deep  barrancas  before  coming  to  the  small, 
nondescript  station  of  El  Abra,  whence  Tampico  draws  much 
of  its  building  stone.  As  if  vying  with  other  vegetation,  the 
cacti  in  this  productive  region  sends  out  crimson  shoots.  The 
quick  eye  will  note  many  beautiful  papilio  busy  among  the 
flowers.  We  emerge  from  the  jungle  and  cross  a broad,  re- 
claimed plain  to 

385  M.  Ebano,  in  the  midst  of  the  famous  oil  region  of  the 
same  name.  Oil-tanks,  tank-cars,  pipe-lines,  and  the  heavy, 
sweetish  smell  of  oil  in  the  air  are  now  noticeable.  Before,  at, 
and  beyond  the  small  station  of  Chila,  oil-wells  are  visible 
across  the  country  at  the  right.  At  Tamos  we  glimpse  the 
broad  and  busy  Panuco,  with  oil-barges  being  pushed  up  and 
down  stream.  The  rly.  bridge  visible  at  the  right,  crosses  the 
Pdnuco  and  forms  a part  of  the  short  line  under  course  of  con- 
struction between  Tampico  and  Mexico  City.  Oil  Terminals 
are  features  of  the  river  bank;  the  low  walls  at  the  base  of  the 
oil-tanks  scattered  here  and  there  are  to  retain  the  oil  if  it 
catches  fire  and  thus  localize  the  disaster.  We  flank  the 
Panuco  (right)  and  cross  the  Tamesi  (p.  50/)  at  the  point 
where  it  unites  its  waters  with  those  of  the  P&nuco.  The  foreign 
colonies  of  Tampico  are  visible  on  the  high  bluff  at  the  left. 
The  auto  road  at  the  right  leads  up  country  to  various  towns 
on  the  river  bank.  It  is  being  extended.  Many  tankers  go  up 


50  Route  11. 


TAMPICO 


Hotels . 


and  down  the  river,  or  receive  their  oily  cargos  at  various 
jetties.  The  busy  river  is  but  a mild  exhibit  of  the  energy  and 
progress  which  characterize  Tampico,  the  largest  oil-shipping 
port  in  the  world.  421  M.  Tampico. 

Tampico 

Arrival.  The  Union  Railway  Station  is  near  the  So.  edge  of  the  com- 
mercial section  of  the  city,  2 min.  walk  from  the  river  and  the  custom  house 
pier,  and  5-10  min.  from  the  Imperial  or  Southern  Hotels.  Taxis  (see  below) 
meet  trains  and  ships  . Fare  to  any  hotel,  $1.50;  to  the  residential  section, 
$1.50  to  S2.50.  Handbags  and  a small  trunk  can  be  carried  in  the  taxi  at 
no  extra  cost.  If  the  traveller  has  but  one  or  two  light  handbags,  and  is  not 
averse  to  carrying  them,  he  is  advised  to  seek  his  hotel  see  the  accompany- 
ing Plan)  on  foot.  As  Tampico  cargadores  (comp.  p.  Iii6)  have  an  exaggerated 
idea  of  the  value  of  their  services,  travellers  are  advised  to  come  to  an  under- 
standing with  them  before  employing  them.  Their  usual  demand  is  $2  for 
a trunk  to  hotel  or  residence.  If  there  are  several  trunks,  deliver  the  checks 
to  the  hotel  manager.  The  commercial  section  of  the  city  is  compact  and 
distances  are  short. 

Arrival  by  Sea.  Ocean-going  ships  drawing  33  ft.  or  less  come  up  the 
river  and  tie  up  at  the  Customs  Wharf  (Muelle  Fiscal),  2 min.  to  the  right 
of  the  rly.  station,  and  5-10  min.  from  the  chief  hotels.  The  customs  formal- 
ities see  p.  23)  are  prompt,  courteous,  and  lenient.  Many  of  the  officers 
speak  English.  Passenger  Launches  for  riverine  ports  leave  from  and  arrive 
at  the  City  Wharf.  Consult  the  Steamship  Agent  and  one’s  Consul  regard- 
ing the  formalities  requisite  before  undertaking  a voyage  to  another  country. 

Railways.  Trains  for  Monterey,  Laredo,  San  Luis  Potosl.  Mexico  City, 
etc.,  all  leave  from,  and  arrive  at,  the  same  station.  Likewise  those  to  and 
from  La  Barra.  The  office  of  the  Tampico-Panuco  Railway  ( Ferrocarril  de 
Tampico  a Pdnuco ) is  in  the  Calle  de  F.  I.  Madero  No.  23.  The  line  is 
known  locally  as  El  Higo  Route,  and  the  station  is  just  across  the  river. 
Launch  from  the  City  Wharf. 

Taxis  (autotaximetros) . Ford  taxis,  locally  referred  to  as  Fortingos  (fohr- 
teeng-ohs  > are  as  common  in  Tampico  as  they  are  in  most  other  Mexican 
citic-  They  are  cheaper  than  the  larger  cars  (which  usually  charge  about 
double  the  Ford  rate).  Per  hr.,  $3,  h hr.  or  less,  $1.50.  Sundays  and 
feast  days,  $5  per  hour.  Special  rates  by  the  day,  and  for  country  trips. 
For  the  latter,  where  the  roads  are  not  very  good,  the  larger  cars  are  more 
comfortable.  Compare  the  reference  to  Taxis  at  page  238.  Cabs  $2  per 
hour;  Sundays,  $4.  $1,  and  $2  per  £ hour. 

Tramways  ( tranrlas ) of  the  Tampico  Electric  Light,  Power  and  Traction 
Ltd  a British  enterprise  operating  an  excellent  and  dependable  service) 
run  to  nearly  all  parts  of  the  Port  and  its  immediate  suburbs.  The  cars  are 
clean  and  are  much  used  bv  the  Tampico  residents. 

Steamship  Offices  (oficinas  de  vapores).  Ward  Line  (New  York  & Cuba 
M Co.  Calle  Aurora  No.  5.  R.  M.  Boulet , Agent.  Com- 

panla  Navlera  Mexicana  (Mexican  Navigation  Co.),  Fernando  /.  Bar* 
wt  ncchea.  Agent;  Cades  Rivera  and  Damas. 

The  Ward  Line  operates  a regular  and  thoroughly  excellent  (deservedly 
popular)  fast  service  between  Tampico  and  New  York,  calling  at  era  Cruz, 
Progreso  in  Yucatan),  Havana  (Cuba),  and  Nassau  (Bahama  Islands). 
Fine,  big.  luxurious  ships,  with  good  food  and  perfect  service.  Their  fre- 
quent excursions  (reduced  rates)  to  Vera  Cruz  (thence  to  Mexico  City’) 
are  much  patronized.  , , 

The  Campania  Navlera  Mexicana  runs  excellent  ships  (much  liked  by 
foreigners)  between  Mexican  coast  ports,  to  New  Orleans  (good  and  fre- 
quent service),  as  well  as  between  many  ports  on  the  Pacific  Ocean  Both 
lin^s  are  recommended.  ^ „ „ , . . 

Hotels  (comn.  p.  xlvii).  Imperial  Hotel,  cor.  Calles  Estado  & Aiirora,  in 
the  commercial  centre.  A huge,  concrete,  American  style  hotel,  with  good 
rooms  and  baths,  excellent  service,  and  all  the  modern  conveniences  Amer- 
ican management.  Moderate  rates.  One  of  the  best  known  and  most 





General  Information . 


TAMPICO 


11  Route.  50  a 


popular  hotels  in  the  Republic.  The  upper  rooms  have  the  best  outlook, 
and  those  overlooking  the  Panuco  get  the  cool  breeze.  Recommended. 

The  Southern  Hotel , cor.  Aduana  and  Comercio  Sts.  Good  rooms  and 
good  service  at  moderate  rates.  Widely  (and  favorably)  known  as  the  home 
of  the  oil  man  and  the  commercial  traveller.  Modern,  Comfortable,  and 
American  in  its  appointments.  Recommended. 

Cafes  and  Restaurants.  There  are  several  in  Tampico,  but  not  all  of 
them  come  up  to  the  American  standard  in  food,  cleanliness,  etc.  Perhaps 
the  best  and  most  popular  (with  foreigners  and  residents  alike)  is  the  Cafe 
Louisian,  in  the  Calle  Aduana  No.  26,  between  Estado  and  Comercio  Sts. 
(two  min.  walk  from  the  Imperial,  and  1 min.  from  the  Southern  Hotel). 
Clean,  airy,  screened.  Good  food,  well  and  daintily  served,  at  reasonable 
prices.  American  ideas  and  management.  Recommended.  Others  are  La 
Opera,  Calle  Comercio  No.  78.  — American  Grocery,  Aurora  St. 

Banks  ( bancos ) where  Travellers’  Checks,  Letters  of  Credit,  etc.,  may  be 
cashed,  money  exchanged,  drafts  drawn,  etc.  Tampico  Banking  Co.,  S.  A., 
cor.  Aduana  and  Comercio  Sts.,  in  the  Southern  Hotel  Bldg.  For  the  ad- 
dresses of  other  banks  consult  the  local  directory. 

Post-  and  Telegraph-Offices,  facing  the  Plaza  de  la  Libertad. 

Stores  and  Shops.  The  American  stores  (certain  of  them  attractive)  usu- 
ally specialize  in  the  articles  liked  by  Americans  and  English-speaking 
travellers;  the  native  shops  cater  more  to  the  Mexicans.  Prices  in  the  former 
generally  are  reasonable  and  are  fixed.  Bargaining  (distasteful  to  Ameri- 
cans) is  often  necessary  in  the  native  establishments. 

American  Pharmacy.  Drogueria  Americana"  La  Huasteca,”  S.  A.  (Ameri- 
can Drugstore),  cor.  Aurora  and  Comercio  Sts.  American  specialties  of 
many  kinds:  Soda  Fountain;  Ice  cream;  Luncheonette;  American  Candies, 
Chocolates,  Talking  Machines  and  Records,  and  all  those  articles  usually 
for  sale  in  a modern,  up-to-date  American  drugstore  — Photographic 
Materials,  Cameras  (Kodaks,  etc.),  Films,  Safety  Razors  and  Blades; 
Fountain  Pens,  etc.  Prescriptions  filled  by  certified  American  chemists. 
Lederle’s  Biologicals.  Analytical  Laboratory. 

Mexican  Souvenirs  and  Curios,  American  Typewriters  and  Supplies, 
Adding  Machines,  Office  equipment,  Stationery,  Fountain  Pens,  Safety 
Razors  and  Blades,  etc.  at  the  Sonora  News  Co.,  Calle  Aduana  18. 

American  Newspapers  and  Magazines,  Guidebooks.  Interpreters,  Span- 
ish methods  and  grammars;  Mining  and  Stamp  Laws,  Civil,  Commercial  and 
other  Codes,  Oil  Regulations,  etc.,  at  the  above  address. 

Cigars,  Cigarettes,  Tobacco,  Pipes,  Fishing-Tackle,  Hunting  Outfits, 
etc.,  at  the  Sonora  News  Co.,  Calle  Aduana  18. 

Haberdashery.  American  Clothing,  Hats,  Shirts,  Shoes,  Trunks,  Valises, 
etc.  El  Regal,  Calle  de  Comercio  No.  80. 

Maps  and  Plans  of  the  Oil  Fields,  Oil  Pools,  Haciendas  and  others  es- 
sential for  the  location  and  development  of  Oil,  Farming,  etc.  Republic, 
State,  Regional,  and  City  Maps  and  Plans.  Salt  Water  Maps.  Drilling 
Reports,  etc.,  etc.  Hitchman  & Howard,  S.  en  C .,  Calle  Rivera  No.  32. 
Widely  and  favorably  known.  Maps  and  Plans  used  by  practically  every 
big  oil  interest  in  the  Republic. 

Insurance  Companies:  One  of  the  largest  and  strongest  in  Latin  America 
is  located  in  Tampico,  the  A.  G.  Mason  Co.  (A.  G.  Mason,  C.  C.  Freston), 
Southern  Hotel  Bldg.,  P.  O.  Box  141.  Insures  Travellers’  Baggage,  Shio- 
ments  of  every  nature;  anything,  anywhere,  stationary  or  in  transit.  Poli- 
cies aggregating  nearly  $50,000,000. 

General  Importers  of  American  Goods.  General  Machinery  and  Supply 
Co.,  S.  A.  (/.  B.  Sutton,  President  and  General  Manager),  Calle  Rivera  No. 
27. 

Consuls  ( consules ) representing  many  countries  maintain  Consulates 
( consulados ) in  Tampico.  See  the  local  directory  for  addresses,  which  are 
subject  to  change. 

Local  Newspapers.  The  Tampico  Tribune,  published  weekly,  in  English. 
The  best  American  newspaper  in  the  Republic.  Publishing  office  Calle 
Muelle  No.  19.  P.  O.  Box  612.  There  are  a number  of  papers  printed  in 
the  vernacular. 

Churches  (iglesias).  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion. 
Mexican  Evangelical  Church , Calles  Estado  and  Muelle.  Baptist  Ch.,  Calles 


506  Route  11. 


TAMPICO 


Descriptive . 


Estado  and  Artesanos.  American  Sunday  School,  next  to  the  Evangelical 
Ch.  Church  (Catholic)  of  Our  Lady  of  Mercy,  in  the  Calle  Estado. 

Places  of  Amusement.  Moving  Pictures  ( Cines , or  Cmematografos ) 
abound  in  Tampico,  but  the  films  are  not  always  to  the  taste  of  Americans. 
The  best  pictures  can  usually  be  seen  in  the  Cine  Alhambra,  in  the  Calle 
Comercio,  between  Muelle  and  Empresa  Sts. 

Bull  Fights  (Corridas  de  Toros),  in  the  Plaza  de  Toros  (Bull-ring)  in  the 
Ave.  de  los  Hombres  Ilustres.  Football  ( balonpie ) at  the  Football  Grounds, 
Ave.  Hombres  Ilustres.  Baseball  at  the  same  place.  See  the  newspapers  for 
details. 

Clubs  (Clubs and  Casinos).  Colonial  Club,  Calle  Aduana  No.  20.  Interna- 
tional, with  many  American  members.  A card  of  admission,  obtainable  from 
a member,  entitles  the  recipient  to  the  services  of  the  club  for  a fortnight. 
This  may  be  extended  for  another  two  weeks  upon  payment  of  five' pesos. 
— The  British  Club,  Calle  Muelle,  between  Comercio  and  F.  I.  Madero 
Sts.  At  the  Los  Mangos  Country  Club,  4 M.  to  the  N.  of  Tampico  (f  M. 
from  the  Dona  Cecilia  Station  on  the  Miramar  Car  Line)  there  are  good 
Golf  Links  and  Tennis  Courts.  Cool  Gulf  breezes  and  fine  views. 

Young  Men’s  Christian  Association  (Asociacion  Cristiana  de  Jdvenes), 
Calle  Muelle,  19. 

American  Chamber  Of  Commerce  (Camara  de  Comercio  Americano ), 
Calle  Aurora  No.  24.  Jack  H.  Hott,  General  Manager. 

The  Water  Supply  Of  Tampico  is  inadequate  to  the  fast  growing  city  and 
it  is  not  always  of  the  best.  The  safest  plan  is  to  boil  it  before  drinking  it. 
Several  local  companies  supply  the  hotels,  restaurants  and  homes  with  an 
electrically  purified  water.  Many  residents  drink  the  beer  brewed  at  Ori- 
zaba, Vera  Cruz,  where  the  water  is  known  to  be  pure.  The  Tampico  reser- 
voir (Depfisito  de  Agua)  is  situated  on  the  heights  of  the  Coloriia  del  Aguila. 

Note:  As  the  foregoing  street  numbers  are  apt  to  change,  the  traveller  is 
advised  to  consult  the  local  directory  when  he  is  in  doubt  about  the  location 
of  an  address  wanted. 

Tampico  (pop.  100,000)  chief  commercial  city  (lat.  22°,  long. 
98°)  of  Northern  Mexico  (602  M.  from  Mexico  City),  in  the 
extraordinarily  rich,  semi-tropical  State  of  Tamaulipas  (p. 
50.)),  the  most  important  riverine  port  in  the  Republic,  a 
celebrated  winter  resort  and  apparently  destined  to  be  one  of 
the  premier  cities  of  Spanish  America,  stands  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  busy  Phnuco  River,  7 M.  from  its  mouth  at  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  on  the  edge  of  one  of  the  most  productive  agricultural 
regions  south  of  the  Rio  Grande,  and  in  the  midst  of  the 
greatest  oil-producing  section  of  the  world.  It  is  a handsome, 
upstanding,  high-powered  port,  with  an  efficient  Chamber  of 
Commerce,  well-equipped,  modern  hotels,  good  schools,  fine 
parks,  and  the  general  attributes  of  a progressive  American 
metropolis.  Variously  known  as  the  New  York  of  Mexico,  the 
Sultana  of  the  South,  The  Queen  City  of  the  Mexican  Gulf, 
capital  of  the  Oil  World,  and  as  the  most  American  city  in  the 
world  outside  the  United  States,  Tampico  strikingly  illustrates 
what  dynamic  American  energy  coupled  with  brains  and  pur- 
pose can  accomplish  in  the  warm  and  languid  South. 

While  no  place  in  Mexico  seems  more  generously  to  repay 
American  enterprise,  and  certainly  in  no  Mexican  city  is 
American  initiative  and  development  displayed  in  such  a 
diversity  of  ways,  Tampico’s  phenomenal  rise  and  progress  is 
not  due  solely  to  American  push  and  foresight.  It  is  a note- 
worthy example  of  Nature’s  inexplicable  arbitrariness.  To 


Descriptive . 


TAMPICO 


11.  Route . 50 c 


some  localities  she  gives  practically  nothing  — and  seems  to 
resent  their  having  that!  Others  she  overwhelms  with  riches 
and  dazzles  with  her  lavishness.  Cosily  nestling  in  a sunny 
corner  of  one  of  the  most  opulent  of  the  Mexican  states,  with 
‘an  astonishingly  fertile  tropical  country  at  her  back,  a sea  of 
golden  oil  beneath  her  feet,  a sempiternal  blue  sky  above  and 
a broad  ocean  teeming  with  fine  fish  at  her  very  door,  Tampico 
possesses  advantages  greater  than  those  of  a half  dozen  other 
Mexican  cities  combined.  By  monopolizing  the  river  which 
half  encircles  and  guards  it,  Tampico  succeeds  in  drawing 
sustenance  from  two  extraordinarily  rich  States,  Tamaulipas 
and  Vera  Cruz;  each  tropical,  each  rich  in  oil  and  forest  prod- 
ucts, and  each  practically  undeveloped. 

South  of  the  Tropic  of  Cancer  and  thus  on  the  edge  of  the 
lower  tropics,  yet  within  four  and  one-half  days’  ride  in  a 
luxurious  Pullman  from  New  York  City,  Tampico  is  but  159 
miles  away  from  cool  hill-stations  on  the  Mexican  plateau, 
less  than  20  leagues  from  broad  forests  where  big  game  roams 
at  will,  and  practically  astride  a river  which  affords  some  of 
the  finest  game  fishing  in  the  world.  The  broad  lagoons  which 
stretch  inland  from  the  suburbs  are  the  winter  rendezvous  of 
plumed  egrets,  pink-winged  flamingos,  great  blue  herons, 
shovellers,  pintails,  blue-winged  and  cinnamon  teal,  and  such 
a myriad  wild-fowl,  from  Labrador  geese  to  canvasback  ducks, 
that  one  tires  of  enumerating  them.  Enlivening  the  chaparral 
which  flank  these  quiet  fluvial  reaches  are  countless  thousands 
of  song-birds  which  make  this  elysium  the  Mecca  of  their 
southern  flight.  The  range  of  this  beautiful  assemblage  is 
difficult  to  imagine,  since  it  includes  almost  everything  from 
brilliant  cockatoos  and  tropical  hummingbirds,  to  the  nightin- 
gales and  thrushes  of  our  northern  copses.  Quail  abound  in 
the  environing  meadows,  and  the  occasional  hunter  finds  the 
region  a sort  of  sportsman’s  paradise. 

Though  cosmopolitan  in  a limited  sense,  Tampico  is  unlike 
Mexico’s  brilliant  capital  with  its  various  Indian  tribes  and 
its  people  from  many  nations.  It  is  predominantly  American. 
The  Mexicans  whimsically  refer  to  it  as  “Gringolandia” 
(Gringoland),  and  say  it  is  muy  americanizado  (very  much 
Americanized),  since  they  observe  American  reminders  on 
every  hand.  The  best  American  newspaper  in  the  Republic, 
the  Tampico  Tribune,  is  published  here;  the  banks,  hotels, 
oil -terminals,  refineries,  pipelines,  etc.,  are  American,  as  like- 
wise are  the  best  shops  and  their  managers.  The  railways 
which  radiate  from  the  port  were  built  by  American  capital, 
the  largest  steamship  line  which  connects  the  city  with  New 
York  is  American,  and  the  scores  of  huge,  80,000  bbl.  oil-tanks 
which  dot  the  countryside  came  from  the  great  factories  of  the 
Chicago  Bridge  & Iron  Works  (which  supplies  tanks  and 


50  d Route  11.  TAMPICO  Descriptive. 

machinery  to  most  of  the  great  oil-fields  in  the  Republic).  The 
tolerant  and  helpful  Mexicans  may  not  realize  it,  but  they, 
too,  are  algo  americanizado , for  they  hustle  with  an  alac- 
rity and  a purpose  usually  surprising  to  their  southern 
brethren. 

The  Mexican  life,  with  its  ineradicable  charm,  adds  the 
leaven  that  makes  utilitarian  Tampico  wholly  attractive.  The 
plazas,  churches,  markets,  mam^  of  the  smaller  shops,  and  the 
greater  portion  of  the  older  houses  are  Mexican,  as  is  the  bulk 
of  the  population.  Certain  of  the  older  Mexican  business 
houses  are  colonnaded,  after  the  Moorish  fashion,  and  these 
open  portals  strongly  recall  Singapore,  Bombay,  and  the  East 
Indies.  The  saucy  blackbirds  which  haunt  the  flower-em- 
bowered plazas,  and  the  occasional  palm  which  rises  grace- 
fully above  the  tiled  roofs  emphasize  this  resemblance.  Excel- 
lent military  music  is  provided  in  the  plazas  after  nightfall, 
and  at  that  time  the  Mexican  social  life  in  all  its  charm  comes 
out  for  an  airing. 

While  Spanish  is  the  official  language  in  Tampico,  the  port 
is  essentially  bi-lingual.  Many  of  the  Mexicans  speak  English 
with  a fluency  not  always  excelled  b}^  Spanish-speaking  Ameri- 
cans, but  many  of  these  speak  Spanish  with  scholarly  correct- 
ness. The  large  foreign  colony  influences  the  standard  of 
living,  which  is  more  American  than  Mexican.  American 
money  passes  current  with  the  Mexican,  usually  at  about  two 
pesos  for  one  American  dollar. 

The  city  occupies  an  almost  ideal  situation  on  a gently 
sloping  plain  at  the  edge  of  a swift,  busy  river  near  which  the 
commercial  houses  cluster.  Lagoons  are  features  of  this  lower 
level,  which  is  intersected  by  canals  that  recall  certain  sections 
of  old  Tokyo.  Rising  gradually  toward  the  hinterland  are 
rounded  hills,  spread  over  the  sunny  slopes  of  which  are  the 
several  foreign  colonies  — the  American  predominating.  From 
the  rolling  summits  of  these  hills,  several  hundred  feet  above 
the  sea  and  easily  reached  by  auto  and  tram-cars,  the  eye  ranges 
over  one  of  the  grandest  prospects  in  nature.  On  the  western 
skyline  rise  the  Sierra  Madres,  girt  with  dark  forests  of  brood- 
ing pines,  while  long  lines  of  shadowy  hills  stretch  away  in  the 
distance.  To  the  E.  and  S.,  in  brilliant  blue  contrast,  sweeps 
the  mighty  Gulf.  Directly  south,  cutting  the  green  landscape 
like  a silver  streamer,  winds  the  placid  Pdnuco,  and  along  its 
bosom  move  stately  ships  bound  inland  or  outward  to  many 
ports  of  the  Seven  Seas.  Unrolled  from  the  base  of  the  cliffs, 
in  a gay  confusion  of  meadows,  lagoons,  shining  Indian  vil- 
lages and  flowering  forests,  lie  the  quiet  reaches  of  the  low- 
lands, a floral,  sunlit  region  of  perfect  delight,  where  winter  is 
unknown,  where  the  valleys  perpetually  drowse  beneath  waves 
of  sempiternal  sunshine,  and  where  the  softly  pulsing  current 
of  active  human  life  is  always  in  evidence. 


Climate. 


TAMPICO 


11.  Route.  50e 


After  twilight  when  the  myriad  lights  of  the  trans-P&nuco 
flash  out  in  the  darkness  and  illuminate  the  region  for  miles, 
the  view  from  these  colonial  heights  is  beguiling.  Star  trails 
that  are  almost  as  bright  as  moonbeams  gleam  up  and  down 
the  quiet  bosom  of  the  river,  and  occasionally  a broad,  bicker- 
ing glare  on  the  dusky  horizon  advertises  millions  of  feet  of 
inflammable  gas  from  some  newly-brought-in  well  burning  in 
the  night. 

The  Tampico  folks  are  early  risers.  At  6 a.m.  the  streets 
are  animated,  and  at  8 o’clock  business  managers  usually  are 
at  their  offices. 

The  city  streets  are  well-aligned,  clean,  in  many  sections  of 
asphalt,  flanked  by  well-built  houses.  The  quaint  old  Palacio 
Municipal  overlooks  the  attractive  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion, 
and  dates  from  the  early  years  of  the  present  city.  The  Cathe- 
dral (in  course  of  construction)  flanks  this  plaza  on  the 
north. 

History.  Tampico,  from  the  Huaxtecan  words  tam,  place  of, 
and  piko,  dogs  (at  present  a singular  misnomer),  is  a survival 
of  the  original  Pueblo  Viejo  ( old  town),  an  antiquated  port 
founded  soon  after  the  Spanish  Conquest  and  still  surviving 
on  the  Vera  Cruz  side  of  the  Panuco  River.  Like  Vera  Cruz 
it  was  often  made  the  objective  point  of  those  daring  sea- 
rovers  who  wished  to  “ singe  the  King  of  Spain’s  beard,”  and 
it  has  been  repeatedly  sacked.  Francis  Drake , Laurent  de 
Gaff,  Nicolas  de  Agramonte,  John  Hawkins  and  other  corsairs 
of  the  Spanish  Main  occasionally  made  it  their  port  of  call, 
and  many  bepistoled  buccaneers  of  these  fighting  worthies 
were  romantic  visitors  of  the  early  days.  Because  of  its  ex- 
cellent harbor  facilities  Tampico  was  occupied  by  American 
soldiers  and  marines  under  General  Winfield  Scott  in  1847, 
during  the  Mexican  War.  In  1888  it  was  a nondescript  town 
with  a population  of  12,000.  Its  rapid  rise  from  obscurity 
began  in  1901  when  oil  was  discovered. 

Climate.  The  temperature  ranges  from  about  97°  in  summer 
to  45°  in  the  so-called  winter.  The  hottest  summer  day  is 
tempered  by  a cooling  sea  breeze,  the  saving  grace  of  the 
region,  and  the  lowest  winter  temperature  is  reached  when 
cold  Northers  ( Nortes , see  Vera  Cruz,  p.  471)  sweep  down 
from  the  Rocky  Mts.  and  chill  the  thin  blood  of  the  port 
dwellers.  Americans  from  the  frigid  North  find  the  alleged 
winter  weather  delightful  — a sort  of  New  England  June  or 
October  climate.  June  and  July  in  Tampico  are  apt  to  be  hot 
and  dry,  and  it  is  then  that  the  Tampiquenos  remember  that 
165  miles  away  lies  the  great  Central  Plateau,  with  its  tem- 
perate climate  and  perennially  cool  nights.  Rains  are  more 
frequent  on  the  coast  than  over  the  highlands,  and  the  wet  and 
dry  seasons  are  not  so  sharply  defined  as  at  Mexico  City. 
Though  sub-tropical  in  character,  the  climate  is  far  less  trying 


50/  Route  11.  TAMPICO  The  Pdnuco  River. 

than  that  of  Vera  Cruz  and  other  similarly  situated  Gulf  ports. 
The  annual  average  rainfall  is  about  thirty-five  inches. 

The  Environs  of  Tampico  are  unusually  attractive.  Flank- 
ing the  city  on  the  E.  and  extending  N.  and  S.,  is  the  wide 
Laguna  del  Carpintero,  linked  to  the  Panuco  by  a winding 
canal.  The  Colonia  Americana  overlooks  this  lagoon  from 
the  W.  To  the  E.  of  the  lagoon,  4 miles  distant,  and  connected 
to  the  city  by  a*trollev  line  ( Los  Tranvlas  Electricos  a Miramar ), 
is  the  Playa  de  Miramar,  an  attractive  bathing  beach  much 
frequented  by  the  Tampiquehos.  In  its  outward  course  the 
line  flanks  (right)  the  Pierce  Oil  Refinery,  traverses  the  (non- 
descript) native  towns  of  Arbol  Grande  (big  tree)  and  Doha 
Cecilia , and  crosses  the  grounds  of  the  National  Petroleum 
Corporation  and  the  Aguila  Refinery  before  reaching  Miramar 
Beach.  To  the  right  of  this  is  the  popular  seaside  resort  of 
La  Barra,  so-called  from  its  proximity  to  the  sandbar  which 
lies  athwart  the  entrance  to  the  Panuco  River. 

To  the  W.  of  Tampico,  on  the  slopes  of  the  hills,  lie  the 
Country  Club,  the  Aguila,  Alta  Vista,  Las  Flores,  Guadalupe 
and  other  colonies.  Stretching  across  the  lowlands,  almost  as 
far  as  the  eye  can  see,  extends  the  broad  Laguna  del  Chairel, 
with  its  wooded  islands  (Isla  de  la  Pitahaya;  Moralillo , etc.) 
and  its  myriad  wild  fowl.  The  Tarnesi  River  enters  the  lagoon 
from  the  N.-W.,  crosses  it  and  merges  with  the  Panuco  (10  M. 
from  its  mouth)  just  above  the  Moralillo  inlet.  The  extensive 
works  of  the  Mexican  Gulf  Oil  Co.  lie  beyond,  and  at  this 
point  the  steel  bridge  of  the  Short  Line  to  Mexico  City  spans 
the  broad  Pdnuco.  Countryward,  across  a level  country 
flanked  on  the  left  bv  the  winding  river,  leads  the  road  to  the 
Devil's  Elbow,  where  (near  the  river’s  edge)  there  is  a group 
of  oil  wells  and  where  the  traveller  can  usually  see  the  operation 
of  drilling  a well.  Pipe-lines  ( oleoductos ) intersect  the  country 
like  so  many  telephone  wires  and  through  them  flow  steady 
streams  of  golden  oil  from  the  wells  to  the  sea. 

The  Tamesl,  or  Tamcsln  (a  Huaxtecan  word  signifying  ‘ place  where 
there  are  many  alligators’  — caimanes  or  Jagartos) , rises  in  the  Sierra 
Mad  res  and  for  some  distance  from  its  source  is  called  the  Guayalejo.  It 
receives  numerous  affluents  during  its  course,  and  flanks  a number  of 
lagoons  (lagun as)  before  passing  through  the  Chairel  to  the  Pdnuco.  A 
myriad  wild  fowl  nest  along  its  banks,  and  the  lagoons  through  which  it 
passes  provide  inexhaustible  sport  for  hunters. 


The  Panuco  River  (so-called  from  the  name  of  an  Indian 
chief  of  the  early  days)  was  discovered  by  Hernandez  de 
Cdrdoba  in  1516,  nearly  a century  before  Henry  Hudson 
explored  the  Hudson  River  to  Albany.  It  rises  in  the  Sierra 
Madres  and  is  the  most  important  of  the  Vera  Cruz  rivers  — 
which  state  it  separates  from  Tamaulipas.  At  its  mouth, 
where  it  empties  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  it  is  300  ft.  wide, 


The  Panuco  River . 


TAMPICO 


11.  Route.  50 g 


but  it  broadens  on  its  winding  course  inland  to  1,500  ft.  just 
inside  the  estuary  and  1,200  ft.  at  the  Customs  Wharf  at 
Tampico.  A navigable  channel  800  ft.  wide  and  33  ft.  deep 
extends  to  Tampico,  then  during  the  ensuing  7 M.  it  narrows 
to  165  ft.  Thence  to  (46  M.)  Panuco , craft  drawing  9 ft.  or 
less  can  go.  The  light-house  ( farol ) which  stands  on  the  left 
shore  at  the  entrance  to  the  river  is  of  the  2d  order  with  a light 
visible  40  M.  at  sea. 

The  Panuco  is  the  busiest  of  the  Mexican  rivers,  since  up- 
ward of  2,000  American  ships  register  at  Tampico  each  year. 
Tankers  and  other  vessels  from  almost  every  important  port 
of  the  world  come  hither  to  carry  away  precious  oil  or  the 
exports  for  which  the  port  is  noted.  Chief  among  these  are 
sarsaparilla,  vegetable  fibres,  honey,  hides  and  skins  and 
vanilla.  Beside  leading  the  world  in  oil  shipments,  Tampico 
is  a port  of  exit  for  large  quantities  of  bar  silver,  lead,  copper, 
and  zinc  from  mines  in  the  interior  of  the  Republic. 

The  river  advertises  the  chief  product  of  the  region  in  various 
ways.  For  miles  along  its  southern  shore  extend  the  vast 
properties  of  the  greatest  oil  companies  of  the  world.  A dark 
brown  film  of  crude  oil  covers  every  stick  and  stone  along  the 
river  bank,  while  gurgling  fluid  oil  pours  from  big  pipes  into 
many  a tanker  anchored  at  the  numerous  landings.  The 
Producers  Oil  Corporation,  the  Freeport  & Mexican  Fuel  Oil 
Co.,  the  Compama  de  Petrdleo  La  Corona,  the  Huasteca 
Petroleum  Co.,  the  Mexican  Fuel  Oil  Co.,  the  New  England 
Fuel  Oil  Co.,  the  Texas  Co.  of  Mexico,  the  Transcontinental 
Pet.  Co.,  and  many  others  extend  along  the  Vera  Cruz  side  of 
the  river,  some  of  the  properties  resembling  sizeable  towns 
complete  within  themselves.  Pipe-lines  come  to  them  from 
the  oil-wells  afield,  and  fleets  of  scows  bring  the  valuable  fluid 
from  the  upper  reaches  of  the  river.  The  widely  celebrated 
Mexican  Petroleum  Co.,  known  to  Wall  St.  as  the  Mex-Pete, 
has  its  headquarters  at  Ehano.  This  company,  with  the 
Standard  Oil  Co.  and  the  huge  Mexican  Gulf  Oil  Co.  are  the 
largest  in  the  Republic.  (The  big  Agwi  Co.  is  at  Port  Lobos.) 

The  Chijol  Canal,  a celebrated  fluvial  lane  connecting 
Tampico  with  Tuxpam  (V.  C.),  leads  out  of  the  Panuco  3|  M. 
from  its  mouth,  and  extends  southward  through  one  of  the 
richest  sections  of  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz.  Projected  25  years 
ago  by  General  Porfirio  Diaz  and  begun  in  1901,  this  canal, 
with  a channel  6 ft.  deep  and  25  ft.  wide,  penetrates  a prolific 
oil  region  and  materially  minimizes  the  danger  of  lightering 
cargo  over  the  unstable  Tuxpam  bar. 

Tuxpam  or  Tuxpan  (Aztec,  where  rabbits  abound ),  about  90  M.  S.  of 
Tampico,  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  tortuous  Tuxpam  River,  lies  in  the  midst  of 
a productive  oil  region.  A shallow  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  prevents 
bi=?  ships  from  entering,  so  pipe-lines  are  carried  out  2 M.  at  sea,  anchored 
to  a buoy,  and  oil  pumped  into  them  at  the  rate  of  about  4,500  bbls.  an 
hour.  The  Penn- Mex.  Fuel  Oil  Co.  is  located  here. 


50  h Route  11. 


TAMPICO 


Fruits. 


Five  or  six  big  ocean  liners  can  lie  alongside  the  Tampico 
Customs  Wharf  (cost  with  the  custom-house,  $1,500,000)  at 
one  time,  while  the  river  affords  ample  harbor  space  for  scores 
of  others.  Up  country  the  river  winds  through  a region  so 
beautiful  that  it  is  often  referred  to  as  the  Tamaulipecan  Eden. 
Flowering  trees  alive  with  tropical  birds,  wild  mangos,  figs, 
bananas  and  a host  of  other  fruits  are  features  of  the  verdurous 
banks,  along  which  stretch  smiling  haciendas,  whence  come 
the  milk  and  vegetables  consumed  in  the  port.  Many  pleasure 
craft  pulse  along  the  quiet  reaches  of  the  stream,  oh  the 
tranquil  bosom  of  which  scows  ( chalanas , — lanchones  in 
Vera  Cruz)  laden  with  oil  float  down  from  the  wells  to  the  sea. 
Many  big  fish  from  the  Gulf  are  caught  in  the  upper  reaches 
of  the  river,  where  the  sportsman  may  find  alligators  in  the 
water  and  wild  game  in  the  forests.  The  big  laguna  on  the 
Vera  Cruz  side  of  the  river,  opposite  Tampico,  is  the  Laguna 
del  Pueblo  Viejo. 

Certain  sections  of  the  river  country  are  noted  for  their  fine 
fruits,  particularly  grapefruit  (so-called  because  it  grows  in 
clusters,  like  grapes).  This  variety  of  pomelo  ( Citrus  decumana 
— Spanish,  toronja)  would,  were  it  not  kept  out  of  the  United 
States  by  unfavorable  legislation,  have  a wide  demand  there, 
as  it  is  unusually  juicy  and  delicious.  As  it  is,  the  consumer 
in  Great  Britain  enjoys  the  fruit  at  a much  lower  price  than 
Americans  pay  for  native  grown  fruit.  — Pineapples  {pirns), 
lemons  ( limones ),  guavas  ( gayabas ),  oranges  (; naranjas ), 
sapodillas  ( sapotes ),  bananas  ( pldtanos ),  limes  ( limns ),  yellow, 
red  and  purple  plums  ( ciruelas ),  mammee-apples  {mameyes), 
alligator-pears  (aguacalcs),  pomegranates  (granadas),  and  a 
host  of  other  fine  fruits  grow  in  the  region  roundabout.  Melons 
in  great  variety  ripen  throughout  the  year,  while  Tampico  is 
the  largest  market  in  the  world  for  sarsaparilla. 

Onions  superior  in  quality  to  the  finest  Bermudas  attain 
perfection  in  the  Tampico  district,  along  with  tobacco,  sweet- 
potatoes,  beans,  corn,  and  practically  every  vegetable  produced 
in  any  tropical  or  semi-tropical  climate.  The  land  on  which 
these  comestibles  grow  can  be  bought  from  $2  to  $10  an  acre 
(the  latter  price  for  improved  land),  and  if  the  owner  wishes 
to  have  it  produce  hay  he  can  get  from  one  acre  what  he  can 
sell  in  Tampico  for  $40. 

Cattle  raising  is  one  of  the  coming  industries  of  the  region. 
The  prevalent  parra  grass  grows  faster  than  alfalfa  and  is 
superior  as  a food  for  beef  cattle  and  dairy  cows.  Coffee  equal 
in  quality  to  that  of  Brazil  grows  wild  on  the  hill  slopes  of  the 
adjacent  plateau,  and  sugar  lands  as  productive  as  those  of  any 
other  country  extend  from  Micos  to  the  port.  Cotton  and  rice 
will  be  crops  of  the  near  future.  Vanilla  grows  to  better  ad- 
vantage south  of  the  P&nuco,  in  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz.  The 


Fishing  and  Hunting . TAMPICO  11.  Route . 50 i 

most  productive  region  lies  southeast  of  Tuxpam,  between  the 
Nautla  and  the  Tuxpam  Rivers . 

Vanilla  (Spanish,  vainilla,  diminutive  of  vaina  — Latin  vagina,  a sheath, 
husk,  pod)  is  indigenous  to  Mexico,  where  upward  of  50,000  people  are 
employed  in  its  cultivation.  It  belongs  to  the  orchid  family,  is  a robust 
climber,  and  is  one  of  about  60  species  scattered  through  the  tropics.  It 
grows  wild  in  many  places,  and  in  such  abundance  that  it  perfumes  the  air 
in  the  vicinity.  It  is  assiduously  cultivated  in  the  Papantla  and  Misantla 
districts,  in  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz,  and  it  thrives  best  at  an  altitude  of 
about  1,000  ft.  above  sea  level.  The  character  of  the  soil  (it  grows  best  in  a 
rich,  sandy  soil,  not  too  dry),  the  temperature,  humidity,  etc.,  influence  the 
quality  and  strength  of  the  product.  The  valuable  property  of  the  bean 
resides  in  a volatile  oil  which  is  developed  by  a slow  process  of  curing  involv- 
ing fermentation.  The  extract  has  a peculiar  agreeable  odor  and  aromatic 
taste.  It  has  the  medicinal  property  of  an  aromatic  stimulant,  with  some 
effect  upon  the  nervous  system.  The  white  and  red  flowers  are  large, 
abundant,  and  of  delicious  fragrance.  The  dark-brown  pods  are  6 to  9 
inches  long,  and  are  filled  with  a dark  oily  odorous  pulp.  They  are  known 
as  vanilla  beans,  but  not  from  the  seeds,  which  are  minute.  They  ripen  in 
Jan.  and  Feb.  Most  of  the  Mexico  product  goes  to  the  United  States. 

Fishing  and  Hunting  are  the  chief  recreation  of  many  of  the 
Americans  in  Tampico,  and  the  former  affords  thrills  not 
usually  experienced  elsewhere.  The  nearby  Gulf  and  the  still 
closer  lagoons  swarm  with  fish,  best  among  them  the  stately 
Tarpon  ( sdbalo ),  perhaps  the  finest  of  the  American  game 
fishes  and  always  to  be  found  in  the  Panuco  River . Not  often 
can  one  get  wonderful  fishing,  relatively  speaking,  in  one’s 
own  back  yard,  but  such  is  the  case  in  Tampico.  Instead  of 
having  to  go  out  to  sea  in  a small  boat,  with  its  consequent 
discomforts,  one  can  hire  a launch  at  the  Tampico  wharf,  and 
a few  hundred  yards  from  shore  and  the  hotel  enjoy  an  experi- 
ence one  will  long  remember.  A rod,  a strong  line,  good  muscles 
and  a sporting  willingness  to  stick  to  a good  thing  when  one 
has  hooked  it,  are  all  the  traveller  needs.  The  hotel  manager 
will  aid  the  stranger  to  plan  his  expedition,  and  fishing  tackle 
can  be  bought  at  reasonable  cost  at  several  of  the  local  shops. 

The  Tarpon,  or  Silver  King  ( Tarpon  atlanticus ),  finest  of  American  game 
fishes,  a large  species  of  the  family  Elopidce  (subfamily  Megalopinoe) , one 
of  the  so-called  big-eyed  herrings,  and  a near  relative  of  the  Elops  saurus, 
is  common  in  the  warm  waters  of  the  Gulf  and  is  known  from  Virginia  to 
Brazil.  In  certain  sections  it  is  called  grande  ecaille,  from  the  size  of  the  huge, 
round,  shining  scales,  which  encase  the  body  in  an  armor  of  glistening  silver, 
hence  the  name  silver  king.  These  scales  ( escamas ) are  often  as  large  as  a 
silver  peso,  and  they  are  used  in  making  ornaments,  and  as  miniature 
postcards  which  travellers  sometimes  send  through  the  mails  as  souvenirs. 
The  fish,  which  often  attain  a length  of  six  feet  and  a weight  of  200  lbs.  or 
more,  spawn  near  the  coast  of  Porto  Rico  and  later  frequent  the  bays  of 
Florida  and  the  Mexican  Gulf  coast.  The  flesh  is  palatable,  the  fish  is  a 
gamy  and  vicious  fighter,  and  to  land  one  with  a rod  and  line  is  a sport  in 
which  skill,  strength  and  patience  are  required.  Mullet  or  something  similar 
is  used  as  bait.  The  moment  the  fish  feels  the  hook  in  his  mouth  he  makes 
desperate  rushes  to  dislodge  it;  leaping  high  in  the  air,  shaking  his  head 
violently,  and  not  unfrequently  falling  into  the  boat  — where  he  is  never 
welcome.  Failing  to  cast  the  hook  he  leaps  again  and  again,  clearing  the 
water  and  presenting  a thrilling  spectacle  in  his  mad  frenzy  as  he  whips  to 
and  fro.  An  hour  or  more  of  exciting  and  exhaustive  work  is  often  required 
to  land  a big  fish.  Hundreds  are  caught  during  the  year,  the  best  season  be- 


50;  Route  11. 


TAMPICO  Fishing  and  Hunting . 


ing  the  cool  months  of  Dec.  and  Jan.  Tarpon  are  sometimes  erroneously  I 
called  Jewfish.  The  black  Jewfish  (Garrupa  Nigrita ) of  the  Gulf  belongs  to 
the  seabass  family  ( Serranidae ) and  is  closely  related  to  the  groupers.  Large 
species  of  this  Jewfish  weigh  sometimes  as  much  as  a thousand  pounds. 

The  Yellow-tail  (called  by  the  natives,  cur  el,  a word  of 
doubtful  origin)  or  Amberfish  (of  the  family  Carangidoe  and 
genus  Seriola ) are  as  common  as  tarpon  in  Tampico  waters, 
and  afford  almost  equally  exciting  sport.  Six  or  more  species  j > 
of  them  inhabit  the  Gulf,  the  largest  sometimes  attaining  a j ; 
length  of  4-5  ft.  and  a weight  of  a hundred  pounds  of  more. 

It  is  unexcelled  as  a fighter,  and  the  fisherman  who  lands  one  I 
deserves  it.  Red-snappers  ( huachinango ),  Tuna,  Spanish  1 
mackerel,  Margate  fish,  Black  Groupers,  and  Barracuda  are  u 
but  a few  of  the  gamev  fish  one  can  find  in  the  Gulf,  while  in  ii 
the  lagoons  back  of  Tampico  haddock  ( robalo ) and  smaller  >[ 
fish  exist  in  great  variety.  A popular  fish  is  the  Bugara,  a 
corruption  of  the  Spanish  mojarra  ( Hypsurus  caryi ),  a hand-  1 
some  surf-fish  easily  caught.  It  is  known  locally  as  the  high-  J 
brow  because  of  its  short,  abrupt  face  (somewhat  like  that  of  J 
the  moon -fish).  It  resembles  our  white  perch  and  is  remarkable  U 
in  that  it  is  viviparous,  10  to  20  young  being  born  at  a litter. 

Hunting.  There  is  no  closed  season.  A license  (small  fee)  > 
must  be  obtained  from  the  local  authorities.  The  hunter  of  ill 
feathered  game  will  find  the  various  lagoons  adjacent  to  Tam-  1 
pico  alive  with  ducks,  geese,  herons,  and  flamingos  (called  1 
cocos,  by  the  natives),  and  the  environing  lowlands  peopled  jg 
with  quail,  doves,  and  similar  small  game.  Rabbits  axe  plenti-  1 
ful,  and  wild  turkeys  are  often  met  with.  The  foothills  afford  i 
excellent  sport.  Here,  within  3 hours  by  auto  from  the  port,  j| 
the  hunter  can  find  wild-boar  ( jahali  or  puerco  del  monte),  I 
raccoons  ( coati ),  deer  ( venado ),  badgers  ( tejones ),  mountain  || 
dogs  (tepezcuincles) , hares  ( liehres ),  and  armadillos . 

The  Tampico-Mexico  City  Short  Line,  a railway  (The  | 
Pachuca  and  Tampico  Railway  Company)  now  being  con-  31 
structed  by  the  Mexican  Railway  (p.  484)  interests,  will  soon  .« 
bring  Tampico  within  12  hours  of  the  capital.  A similar  air  ji 
line  to  Matamoros,  opposite  Brownsville,  Texas,  will  materi-  i 
ally  reduce  the  distance  overland  between  Mexico  City  and  | 
New  York,  and  will  perhaps  make  Tampico  the  Port  of  Entry  ' 
for  the  Mexican  capital.  It  is  fast  becoming  such  for  all  1 
northern  Mexico,  and  a wholesale  distributing  point  for  many 
cities  in  the  interior  of  the  Republic. 

Tamaulipas  and  The  Huaxteca.  The  State  of  Tamaulipas  s 
(so-called  from  one  of  the  Indian  tribes  which  formerly  in-  J 
habited  the  region),  one  of  the  finest  and  most  promising^of 
all  the  sovereign  states  of  Mexico,  with  a population  of  287 ,951 , ; 
an  area  of  84,393  square  kilometers  and  a coast  line  (Gulf  of 
Mexico)  of  400  kiloms.,  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Rio 
Grande  (which  separates  it  from  the  American  State  of  Texas), 


LA  HAUXTECA 


11  Rte.  50  k 


on  the  W.  by  Coahuila  and  Nuevo  Le6n,  on  the  S.  by  Vera 
Cruz  and  San  Luis  Potosi,  and  on  the  E.  by  the  Golfo  de 
Mejico.  Prodigiously  rich,  extraordinarily  fertile,  and  prac- 
tically undeveloped,  it  is  a region  of  magnificent  mountain 
scenery,  dense  fine-wood  forests,  picturesque  valleys,  — notable 
among  them  Juamave , Rusias,  and  Santa  Barbara  — and 
productive  lowlands.  While  the  coast  in  places  is  low  and 
sandy,  the  interior  is  semi-tropical,  wildly  beautiful,  and 
rugged  where  it  merges  with  the  foothills  of  the  Great  Central 
Plateau.  The  hinterland  is  crossed  by  four  sizeable  rivers, 
dotted  with  lakes  and  marshes  — the  breeding-place  of  a 
myriad  wild-fowl  — diapered  with  alternating  jungle,  fair 
reaches  of  waving  sugar-cane,  and  rolling  prairie,  and  flecked 
with  wild  fruit  trees  in  infinite  variety. 

The  state  is  historically  associated  with  that  rich  section 
known  as  La  Huaxteca  (wahs-teh-cah),  a name  given  by  the 
Toltecs  (or  the  Aztecs)  to  that  section  of  Mexico  which  to-day 
forms  a part  of  the  states  of  Vera  Cruz,  Tamaulipas  (tah- 
mah-oo-lee-pahs),  and  San  Luis  Potosi,  and  which  then  was 
the  (perhaps)  ancestral  home  of  the  Huaxteca  Indians  ( los 
Huaxtecos,  las  Huaxtecas)  who  inhabited  it. 

It  is  thought  to  have  come  first  into  pre-Columbian  history 
about  the  year  1400,  when  the  Acolhuas,  or  Tezcucans  (whose 
kingdom,  prior  to  the  Conquest,  was  situated  at  Tezcoco,  in 
the  Vale  of  Anahuac)  sent  an  expedition  against  Hauaxtecapdn 
(as  it  was  then  known),  with  Chita  (the  capital,  on  the  shore 
of  Lake  Chairel,  where  Tampico  now  stands)  as  the  objective 
point.  The  Aztec  Confederacy  under  Montezuma  conquered 
the  region  and  forced  the  natives  to  pay  an  annual  tribute. 

Foreigners  knew  of  it  first  when  the  region  was  discovered  in 
1516  by  Hernandez  de  Cordoba , one  of  the  Spanish  conquista- 
dor es.  In  1518,  Diego  Velasquez , then  Gobernador  de  Cuba , 
sent  Juan  de  Grijalva  on  an  exploring  expedition  through  the 
Huaxtecan  territory.  He  was  repulsed  by  the  natives.  , Later 
Francisco  de  Garay , Governor  of  Jamaica,  sent  Alonzo  Alvarez 
de  Pineda  to  Chila,  where  he  was  killed.  Another  expedition 
under  Miguel  Ruiz  de  Asis  and  a Captain  Ramirez  proving 
unsuccessful,  Garay  came  in  person,  at  the  head  of  a con- 
siderable force.  In  1522  when  the  bold  Cortes  had  subjugated 
the  Valley  of  Mexico  and  was  looking  about  for  other  regions 
to  conquer,  word  came  to  him  of  the  Jamaica  governor’s  inten- 
tions, so  he  sent  Gonzalo  de  Sandoval  and  a company  of  his 
Tlaxcalan  allies  to  the  disputed  region.  When  Garay  reached 
La  Barra  in  1523  he  found  Cortes ’ men  so  well  intrenched  that 
he  relinquished  his  idea  of  conquest.  The  provincia  de  Panuco 
was  founded,  with  Tampico  el  Viejo  as  its  capital,  and  Nuno 
de  Guzman  as  its  first  governor.  His  cruelty  to  the  Indians 
provoked  a rebellion  which  endured  for  250  years  and  which 
the  Spaniards  were  never  able  entirely  to  subdue.  The  Span- 


50 1 Rte.  11.  STATE  OF  TAMAULIPAS 


iards  called  the  district  Nuevo  Santander , in  perpetual  remem- 
brance of  the  septentrional  province  of  that  name  in  Spain. 
During  the  viceregal  period  the  Conde  de  Revillagigedo  materi- 
ally improved  conditions  in  the  new  province,  but  it  was  not 
until  1824,  after  the  Mexicans  had  thrown  off  the  Spanish 
yoke,  that  Tamaulipas  was  made  uno  de  los  estados  lihres  y 
sober  nanos  de  la  Federation  Mexican  a (a  free  and  sovereign 
state  of  the  Mexican  Federation).  The  first  Constitution  of 
the  state  was  promulgated  in  1825.  One  of  the  picturesque 
episodes  in  its  modern  history  was  the  Apache  and  Comanche 
raid  of  1840. 

A. number  of  ancient  ruins  antedating  the  Spanish  Conquest 
dot  the  state,  notably  in  the  Sierra  de  la  Palma,  near  the  Mt. 
called  Mirador , in  the  municipalidad  of  Altamira.  In  1906  an 
exploring  party  sent  out  by  the  Smithsonian  Institution  un- 
earthed some  sculptured  pyramids,  many  specimens  of  pot- 
tery incised  with  hieroglyphics,  and  various  objects  of  domes- 
tic use,  — jewelry,  etc. 

The  material  wealth  of  the  state  is  practically  undeveloped. 
Gold,  silver,  iron,  copper,  marble,  asphalt  and  salt  exist,  while 
the  production  of  mineral  oil  is  prodigious.  The  forests  contain 
many  fine  cabinet  woods,  and  in  certain  districts  it  is  not 
unusual  to  find  plantation  railways  using  mahogany  ties. 
Interspersed  with  the  almost  countless  trees  which  crowd  the 
wooded  sections  are  groves  of  lemon,  guava,  zapota,  and  a 
host  of  other  fine  fruit  trees.  Palms  are  nearly  always  con- 
spicuous in  the  landscape.  Plants  are  legion  in  their  variety, 
and  the  floral  beauties  of  the  state  embrace  almost  eve^thing 
from  violets  to  orchids.  Frequent  rains  and  an  ardent  sun 
make  of  certain  sections  of  this  favored  locality  Hesperidian 
gardens  almost  as  fair  as  those  of  the  ancients. 

To  the  homeseeker  who  toils  on  an  arid  ranch  in  our  bound- 
less West,  this  favored  region  with  its  golden  fruits  and  yet 
more  golden  sunshine  would  seem  like  a veritable  elysian 
field.  Stock  raising  is  a thriving  industry,  and  there  are  many 
cattle  ranchos  in  the  state.  A fabulous  amount  of  petroleum 
has  been  drawn  from  the  subsoil  of  the  state,  and  the  pos- 
sibilities seem  limitless. 

Oil  Development  (see  p.  50???,)  is  rapidly  increasing  land 
values.  Fruits  and  other  ranchos  are  being  opened  up  by 
American  colonists. 

The  chief  towns  of  Tamaulipas,  after  Tampico , are  Nuevo 
Laredo  (p.  3),  and  Ciudad  Victoria  (p.  11),  the  capital.  The 
small  town  of  Padilla  is  celebrated  as  the  spot  where  the 
unfortunate  Agustln  de  Iturbide , Mexico’s  first  emperor  after 
the  War  for  Independence,  was  shot  July  19,  1824.  — - The 
bar  of  the  Rio  Soto  la  Marina  is  the  place  where  the  Spaniards 
under  Francisco  Javier  Mina  disembarked  April  15,  1817, 
to  fight  with  the  oppressed  Mexicans.  Mina's  name  is  en- 
shrined among  those  of  Mexican  heroes. 


Oil  Development.  TAMPICO  AND  TAMAULIPAS  50m 

Oil  Development.  Petroleum  (Lat.  petra,  rock;  oleum , oil), 
the  naphtha  of  the  Persians,  Greeks,  and  Romans,  the  pctrdleo 
of  the  Spaniards,  and  the  chapopote  (sticky  incense)  of  the 
Aztecs,  has  been  known  in  Mexico  since  pre-Columbian  times. 
Bernardino  de  Sahagun  (1499-1590),  a Franciscan  friar  and 
historian,  writing  of  the  Spanish  Conquest,  mentions  having 
seen  chapopote  for  sale  in  the  old  paridn , or  market-place,  in 
the  Aztec  capital,  and  he  says  that  in  Montezuma's  time  it 
was  mixed  with  pungent,  aromatic  herbs  and  used  as  incense 
before  the  Aztec  idols.  To-day  this  term  is  in  general  use 
among  the  natives  of  the  Gulf  Coast  region  to  mean  crude 
oil,  asphalt,  bitumen,  and  the  heavy  oils  found  around  the 
‘ ojos  de  chapopote ,'  or  chapopoteras,  or  oil-springs,  or  seepages 
common  in  many  sections  of  semi-tropical  and  tropical  Mexico. 
In  addition  to  being  used  as  incense  on  Indian  altars,  it  has 
long  been  employed  in  Mexico  in  the  making  of  certain  crude 
varnishes,  lacquers,  etc.  The  first  effort  to  obtain  it  for 
lubricating  purposes  is  believed  to  have  been  made  by  a 
Mexican  company  in  1864,  at  Cubas  (now  Furbero).  After 
drilling  less  than  100  ft.  the  hole  was  abandoned.  In  1883 
Sr.  Simon  Sarlat,  Governor  of  Tabasco  State,  caused  several 
wells  to  be  drilled  in  the  Macuspana  District  (of  that  state), 
but  the  results  were  unsatisfactory.  Small  quantities  of  high 
grade  oil  were  secured  but  not  in  sufficient  volume  to  make 
the  enterprise  a commercial  success.  In  1900  another  Mexican 
company  began  operations  near  Tulapilla  and  Comaltepec , in 
the  Canton  of  Papantla,  State  of  Vera  Cruz,  but  after  they 
had  turned  their  contracts  over  to  an  English  company  the 
venture  was  abandoned  (in  1904). 

The  present  oil  industry  in  Mexico  dates  from  1901.  In 
that  year  the  Mexican  president  was  empowered  to  grant 
concessions  to  seekers  of  oil  and  gas  on  lands  under  the  Federal 
jurisdiction;  a stipulation  being  that  pools  discovered  and 
capable  of  producing  2,000  liters  (500  gals.)  of  oil  or  20,000 
liters  of  gas  a day  entitled  the  discoverer  to  a patent  exempt- 
ing him  from  export  taxes  on  the  natural  or  refined  product, 
free  importation,  for  one  time,  of  machinery,  pipes,  tanks, 
etc.,  for  the  development  of  the  property,  and  freedom  from 
Federal  taxes  (excepting  the  Stamp  Tax)  on  the  invested 
capital  for  ten  years.  In  addition  the  first  discoverer  of  pe- 
troleum in  the  territories  of  Tepic  and  Lower  California  would 
receive  the  exclusive  right  to  drill  wells  within  a maximum 
distance  of  3 kiloms.  around  the  first  well,  provided  each 
well  produced  at  least  2,000  liters  of  oil  daily. 

Pursuant  to  the  foregoing,  the  Mexican  Petroleum  Co. 
began  operations  (in  the  same  year)  at  Ebano.  To  date  up- 
ward of  60  wells  have  been  driven  in  the  region,  and  24  million 
bbls.  of  oil  have  been  produced.  From  the  10,345  bbls.  ex- 
ported in  1901  the  figures  have  grown  to  the  staggering  total 
of  more  than  200  million  bbls.  Production  is  on  the  increase. 


50 n TAMPICO  AND  TAMAULIPAS  Oil  Development  I 

In  1906  rights  were  granted  by  Mexico  to  S.  Pearson  & i: 
Son,  Ltd.,  to  explore  for  and  develop  oil  pools  located  in  the 
States  of  Chiapas,  Campeche,  Vera  Cruz,  the  Valle  district 
of  San  Luis  Potosi,  and  the  S.  district  of  Tamaulipas.  Oil 
was  soon  discovered  on  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec  and  in  | 
Tabasco,  then  in  other  districts.  To  date  the  Pearsons’  inter-  f 
ests  (now  the  Compama  Mexicana  de  Petroleo  ‘El  Aguila ’)  I 
have  drawn  approximately  4 million  bbls.  of  oil  from  their 
wells. 

On  July  4,  1908,  occurred  the  first  great  catastrophe  in  the  oil  industry 
in  Mexico.  The  Aguila  Co.’s  Dos  Bocas  No.  3 well,  with  an  estimated  daily  I! 
production  of  100,000  bbls.,  came  in  suddenly  and  unexpectedly,  and  the 
enormous  gas  pressure  wrecked  the  derrick,  blew  the  casing  out  of  the  hole  j| 
and  formed  a huge  crater  around  it.  The  oil  caught  fire  and  all  efforts  to  j 
extinguish  it  failed.  It  burned  until  Aug.  30th,  of  the  same  year;  then,  the 
oil  being  exhausted,  the  well  spouted  salt  water.  To-day  this  great,  lost 
fortune  is  represented  by  a crater  several  hundred  feet  in  diameter,  from 
which  hot  salt  and  sulphur  water  flows  constantly  into  the  Mexican  Gulf.  ! 

In  1907-08  the  Aguila  Co.  and  the  Huasteca  Petroleum  Co, 
began  drilling  at  Potrero  del  Llano  and  Juan  Casiano,  and 
during  the  latter  part  of  1910  the  H.  P.  Co.  completed  (at 
Juan  Casiano)  the  first  commercially  productive  wells  in  the 
S.  District  of  the  Mexican  Fields.  On  Dec.  27,  1910,  the 
Aguila  Co.  brought  in  Potrero  del  Llano  well  No.  4,  the  first 
big  well  after  Dos  Bocas  No.  3.  It  broke  loose  when  it  came 
in  and  flowed  wild  for  more  than  a month  before  it  could  be 
successfully  closed  in.  During  the  time  it  ran  wild  it  is  believed 
to  have  discharged  upward  of  110,000  bbls.  of  oil  a day. 

In  Feb.,  1910,  the  East  Coast  Oil  Co.  began  drilling  opera- 
tions in  what  is  now  known  the  world  over  as  the  Panuco 
Field . In  March  of  the  same  year  they  began  work  in  the 
Topila  Field;  opening  up  the  present  Topila-Pdnuco  Field , 
or  the  heavy  oil  district  of  Mexico. 

In  1913  the  Penn-Mex.  Fuel  Co.  began  successful  explora- 
tion work  on  their  Alamo  property  on  the  S.  bank  of  the 
Tuxpam  River , 30  kiloms.  W.  of  the  town  of  Tuxpam . At  the 
end  of  1921  their  wells  had  produced  approximately  37,500,000 
bbls.  of  oil. 

The  next  discovery  of  importance  was  made  by  the  Aguila 
Co.,  during  Aug.,  1914,  at  their  Los  Naranjos  No.  4 well,  in 
northern  Amatldn . This  was  the  first  well  opened  in  the  Los 
Naranjos  Pool  — the  pool  which  proved  so  prolific  during 
1920-21. 

During  1915  the  Huasteca  Petroleum  Co.  worked  on  their 
Cerro  Azul  property,  and  on  Feb.  10,  1916,  brought  in 
Well  No.  4,  reputed  to  have  had  the  astounding  initial  pro- 
duction of  260,000  bbls.  daily.  This  was  the  discovery  well 
of  the  Cerro  Azul-Toteco  pool,  one  of  the  most  prolific  of  all 
the  pools  in  the  S.  or  light  oil  district  of  Mexico.  Since  the 
discovery  of  the  Dos  Bocas  (two  mouths)  well  the  Southern 


Oil  Development . TAMPICO  AND  TAMAULIPAS  5Gv 

District  has  been  extended  further  southward  by  the  discovery 
of  the  following  pools  in  the  order  given:  Juan  Casiano- 
Tepetate}  Los  Naranjos , Central  Amatldn,  Zacamixtle,  Cerro 
Azul-Toteco,  Potrero  del  Llano- Alazan,  Cerro  Viejo , Tierra 
Blanca,  and  Alamo.  Numerous  ‘ wild-cat 3 wells  (wells  driven 
at  random,  in  obedience  to  a ‘ hunch  ’ or  a hope)  have  been 
drilled  in  various  parts  of  the  States  of  Tamaulipas,  San  Luis 
Potosi  and  Vera  Cruz,  to  test  out  areas  thought  to  be  favorable, 
but  none  of  them  have  indicated  production  at  any  great 
distance  from  productive  areas  in  the  Southern  District,  the 
Pdnuco-Topila  Field,  Ebano,  Furbero,  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuan- 
tepec, and  Tabasco . 

There  are  at  present  upward  of  15  pipe-line  companies  in 
the  Republic  with  a total  daily  pumping  capacity  of  about 
1,063,000  bbls.  The  maximum  capacity  for  the  transportation 
of  oil  (pipe-lines  and  barges)  from  the  Tampico  fields  to  tide- 
water is  about  1,200,000  bbls.  daily.  The  exportation  of  oil 
usually  is  done  by  the  parent,  or  holding,  companies  of  the 
companies  operating  in  the  Republic.  As  the  majority  of 
these  are  American,  the  bulk  of  the  oil  exported  goes  to  the 
U.  S.  A.  Other  great  consumers  are  England,  France,  Holland, 
Germany,  South  America,  etc.  When  the  oil  reaches  tide- 
water it  is  stored  in  steel 1 * tanks  until  it  is  exported  or  refined. 
At  the  beginning  of  1922  there  was  a total  tankage  of  25,500,000 
bbls.  in  the  Republic  at  tidewater  and  in  the  various  fields  and 
pipe-lines. 

Taxes  on  Oil.  In  1912  a tax  of  60  centavos  per  metric  ton 
was  levied  on  all  oil  exported.  This  tax  was  modified  on  several 
occasions  and  was  in  effect  until  April,  1917,  when  a special 
Stamp  Tax  was  decreed  (by  President  Carranza),  levying  ten 
per  cent  of  the  net  ton  value  on  all  crude  oil  and  its  derivatives 
produced  in  the  country  and  destined  for  exportation;  this 
net  ton  value  to  be  established  bi-monthly  by  the  Sec.  of  the 
Treasury,  based  upon  the  market  value  of  Mexican  crude  on 
the  New  York  market.  The  New  Constitution,  of  Feb.  5th, 
arrogated  (Article  27)  to  the  Gov’t  all  minerals  and  hydrocar- 
bons existing  in  the  subsoil  of  the  Republic.  This  measure 


1 The  field  storage  tanks  in  which  the  oil  is  confined,  and  which  are  such 
conspicuous  figures  in  the  landscape  around  Tampico,  are  customarily  of 
55,000  and  80,000  barrels  capacity,  and  were  designed  and  constructed  by 
the  Chicago  Bridge  and  Iron  Works,  of  Chicago,  Ills.,  a huge  corporation 
which  supplies  much  of  the  oil  well  appliances  used  in  the  Mexican  Fields. 
To  withstand  the  enormous  pressure  of  so  much  oil  confined  in  a small  space, 
the  steel  used  is  of  extraordinary  toughness  and  strength.  While  the  ordi- 
nary 55,000  barrel  tank  is  built  of  six  courses  or  circumferential  rings 
high,  the  newer  tanks,  called  the  Horton  5ring55,  attain  the  same  capacity 
with  a five  ring  course.  By  an  ingenious  arrangement  the  capacity  of  the 
tank  can  be  enlarged  by  adding  additional  rings  to  the  bottom  of  the 

5ring55  tank.  — The  earthen  embankment  which  encircles  most  of  the 
tanks  seen  in  the  fields  collects  any  oil  that  might  boil  over  from  a tank  on 

fire  and  thus  localizes  the  disaster. 


50 p DRILLING  FOR  OIL  Oil  Wells. 

gave  rise  to  considerable  friction  between  operators  and  the 
Gov’t,  until  it  was  satisfactorily  adjusted. 

The  origin  of  oil  is  in  doubt.  Some  believe  that  the  oil  ‘ sand’ 
in  which  it  is  often  found  was  once  the  bottom  of  a sea  of  ge- 
ologic antiquity  and  that  the  oil  is  the  residue  of  the  life  matter 
of  that  ancient  ocean.  Petroleum  in  Mexico  is  not  generally 
found  in  sands,  but  in  pores  and  crevices  of  a massive  limestone 
known  as  Tamasopo  limestone,  from  the  locality  where  the 
first  outcroppings  were  noted,  near  Tamasopo , in  the  State 
of  San  Luis  Potosi. 

Theoretically  the  search  for  oil  pools  in  Mexico  differs  but 
slightly  from  the  accepted  practice  in  other  lands,  but  actually 
one  works  under  far  greater  difficulties.  The  anticlinal  uplifts, 
or  stratified  domes  under  which  the  pools  usually  lie  are  first 
located,  then,  as  far  as  is  possible  to  determine,  the  probable 
depth  at  which  the  oil  may  be  is  estimated.  Owing  to  the 
tropical  nature  of  the  oil-producing  region,  the  greater  part  of 
it  is  covered  with  an  almost  impenetrable  blanket  of  jungle 
undergrowth,  or  monte , and  in  his  efforts  to  locate  favorable 
sites  the  geologist  or  explorer  usually  has  to  rough  it  in  a 
sparsely  settled  country,  sometimes  impassable  without  the 
use  of  a machete , and  infested  with  a myriad  biting,  stinging 
insects  and  reptilia. 

The  seepages,  or  oil-springs,  or  chapopoteras  scattered  over 
the  greater  portion  of  the  oil-producing  territory  of  the  Gulf 
Coast  region,  and  in  other  countries,  diligently  sought  by 
geologists  as  indications  of  oil  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  are 
misleading  in  Mexico,  since  they  are  not  always  ‘ spotters’  for 
oil  pools.  Numerous  wells  driven  near  seepages  have  shown 
that  the  latter  are  indeed  indications  but  not  necessarily  of 
oil  near  by.  They  may  ooze  for  miles  through  the  stratified 
rock,  and  puzzle  the  geologist  to  locate  their  source.  Of  the 
various  methods  for  locating  subsidiary  pools,  the  best  has 
been  found  to  be  that  of  projecting  lines  from  one  pool  to 
another  probable  one,  through  the  medium  of  sub-surface 
study  of  existing  pools.  A producing  well  is  referred  to  as 
un  pozo  productivo ; a gusher  as  unbrotante. 

The  Drilling  of  Wells  begins  after  the  geologist  has  located 
what  he  believes  is  a favorable  spot.  An  80-foot  derrick  is 
erected  and  a heavy  bit  is  dropped  from  the  top.  Where  it 
sticks  in  the  ground  the  well  is  ‘ spudded  in,’  i.e.:  started  with 
the  aid  of  ropes,  a drill,  a bull-wheel  or  a working-beam  outfit 
known  as  the  Standard.  If  the  well  is  a ‘wild  cat’  or  at  a 
distance  from  any  producing  field,  Standard  tools  are  always 
used,  since  by  this  method  one  can  study  the  formation  of  the 
well  as  it  goes  down.  This  cannot  be  done  with  Rotary  tools. 
Nor  can  a very  deep  well  be  completed  with  a Rotary  outfit. 

If  the  well  is  drilled  in  a proved  field,  where  the  formation 
and  the  depth  at  which  oil  will  be  encountered  (usually  between 


•oa  Wells. 


DRILLING  FOR  OIL  1 


50? 

1,500  and  2,500  feet)  are  known,  it  is  begun  with  Rotary  tools 
and  completed  with  the  more  manageable  Standard  tools  — 
huge  bits  or  drills  which  are  lifted  and  dropped  until  they 
force  their  way  to  the  top  of  the  pay  (the  stratum  of  lime- 
stone beneath  which  the  oil  lies). 

When  the  well  is  being  drilled  ( taladrado , or  perforado)  it  is 
the  custom  to  set  from  150  to  200  ft.  of  15J  inch  casing 
( tuberia ) at  the  top  without  cementing  it.  A favorable  seat  is 
then  sought  for  the  12^  inch  casing,  usually  between  500 
and  1,000  feet  down.  This  tubing  is  cemented  in  position  with 
about  25  sacks  of  cement,  and  allowed  to  set  five  days  before 
drilling  is  resumed.  After  that  10  inch  (8|  inch  is  used  in 
the  Topila  and  Panuco  Fields)  casing  is  cemented  in  with 
100  bags  of  cement  or  more,  and  allowed  to  set  the  10  days 
required  by  law.  This  cement  is  poured  in  at  the  top  and  when 
it  reaches  the  bottom  it  is  forced  up  around  the  casing,  between 
it  and  the  surrounding  earth,  by  means  of  high  pressure  pumps. 
It  must  be  firmly  set  so  that  it  will  not  be  blown  out  by  the 
high  gas  pressure  when  the  well  is  finally  closed  in.  And  the 
more  firmly  it  “freezes”  the  more  difficult  it  is  to  withdraw 
it  if  the  well  proves  to  be  a dry  hole.  After  the  cement  has  set 
it  is  tested  by  a government  inspector,  who  puts  a valve  on 
top  of  the  casing  and  pumps  water  into  it  under  a pressure  of 
about  700  lbs.  to  the  square  inch.  If  the  casing  holds  under 
this  pressure,  drilling  is  resumed. 

When  the  drill  gets  down  to  pay,  before  the  well  is  finally 
drilled  in  8\  inch  casing  is  set  in  position  and  cemented. 
Sometimes  drilling  is  continued  with  the  Rotary  as  far  as  it  is 
considered  safe,  but  the  usual  custom  is  to  change  over  while 
the  cement  is  setting  at  the  bottom  and  drill  thence  to  com- 
pletion with  the  Standard  outfit  tools. 

If  the  well  proves  to  be  a dry  hole  (un  seed),  and  no  oil  is 
found,  it  is  called  a duster.  As  it  takes  weeks  of  sustained  work 
and  costs  upward  of  $50,000  U.  S.  money  to  drill  an  average 
well,  a duster  is  a painful  reward  which  no  one  hopes  for. 
Sometimes  a portion  of  the  tubing  can  be  recovered,  but  usu- 
ally it  is  a total  loss. 

The  Standard  Method  is  popular  in  Mexico  and  is  based  on  the  theory  of 
percussion  caused  by  the  continuous  dropping  of  a set  of  steel  tools  (known 
as  a string)  suspended  from  a walking-beam  by  means  of  a cable.  This  string 
consists  of  a drilling  bit,  jars,  stems,  and  rope-sockets,  the  whole  measuring 
appro  imately  45  ft.  in  length,  and  when  ready  for  use  weighing  from  l| 
to  2 tons.  The  diameter  of  the  drilling-bits  most  in  use  is  from  6i  to 
12i  inches;  the  larger  and  heavier  sizes  are  used  when  beginning  the  well, 
and  smaller  ones  as  it  descends. 

Water  is  put  in  the  well  and  the  tailings  from  the  bit  action  are  brought 
to  the  surface  by  means  of  a bailer,  which  resembles  a joint  of  pipe  with  a 
valve  in  the  bottom.  As  the  drill  goes  down,  steel  pipe,  or  casing,  is  in- 
serted, joint  by  joint  (decreasing  in  diameter  toward  the  bottom)  until  the 
desired  amount  is  in  position;  it  is  screwed  together,  and  much  of  it  is  lost 
if  the  well  proves  a duster.  The  greater  ease  with  which  the  Standard  set 
of  tools  can  be  withdrawn  from  the  well  upon  penetrating  the  oil-bearing 
trata  makes  them  popular  with  drillers. 


50  r 


TAMPICO  OIL  WELLS  Burning  Wells.  | 

The  Rotary  Method  is  based  on  hydraulics,  the  well  being  drilled  by  the 
turning  of  a bit,  called  a fish-tail,  from  its  shape,  attached  to  the  end  of  a 
string  of  heavy  pipe  known  as  the  drill  stem.  This  stem  is  gripped  by  a \\ 
device  attached  to  a geared  turn-table  at  the  surface  level.  A mixture  of  j] 
mud  and  water  is  forced  through  this  drill-stem  under  heavy  pressure,  pass-  fl 
ing  through  two  small  holes  in  the  fish-tail  bit  to  the  open  hole,  where  it 
comes  in  contact  with  the  bit  tailings.  These  then  rise  to  the  surface  of  the  N 
ground  outside  of  the  drill-stem.  The  mixture  is  then  again  forced  into  the 
drill-stem.  It  acts  as  a sort  of  cement  and  prevents  the  hole  from  caving  in  ] 
after  the  drill  has  passed.  Where  earth  formations  are  soft  the  Rotary  [j 
method  is  rapid  and  efficient;  it  is  economical  in  that  it  reduces  the  amount  1 
of  casing  required. 

To  close  the  well  after  it  comes  in,  a gate-valve  big  enough 
to  allow  of  the  passage  of  the  drilling-tools  is  placed  on  top  of  l 
the  cemented  casing  and  securely  anchored.  When  the  well  is 
completed,  and  oil  is  struck,  with  the  tools  out  of  the  valve,  | 
this  is  closed  and  the  well  is  brought  under  control.  Connec- 
tions are  then  attached  that  will  permit  the  oil  to  flow  into 
tanks,  whence  it  is  pumped  or  floated  to  tidewater  for  refining  j 
or  exportation.  A big  gusher  usually  is  not  permitted  to  flow  i 
unrestrainedly,  for  fear  of  damage  to  the  well,  so  customarily  ! 
it  is  choked  down  or  u pinched”  to  a few  thousand  barrels  a j 
day. 

When  a big  well  of  the  Southern  District  blows  in  it  usually 
produces  considerable  excitement.  The  tools  and  the  drilling 
line  weighing  2 tons  or  more  come  roaring  and  rattling  out  of 
the  hole  as  if  Satan  and  all  his  Imps  were  after  them;  the  un- 
thinkable pressure  of  the  gas  and  oil  hurtling  them  high  above 
the  derrick,  the  stream  of  oil  mushrooming  and  wrecking  this 
as  if  it  were  made  of  toothpicks.  At  the  top  of  this  derrick  is  a 
steel  block  which  holds  the  drilling-lines  and  pulleys,  and  if  the  I 
up-rushing  tools  are  blown  against  this  block,  and  a spark  is 
struck  from  it.  the  well  is  set  on  fire.  The  spectacle  of  extin- 
guishing this  fire,  which  may  burn  for  weeks  and  consume 
hundreds  of  thousands  of  barrels  of  valuable  oil  or  millions  of 
feet  of  gas,  is  one  never  to  be  forgotten.  The  men  work  like 
the  demons  they  resemble  as,  stripped  to  the  waist,  covered 
with  viscous,  slippery  oil  which  half  blinds  them,  singed  and 
blistered,  they  fight  until  they  drop  exhausted.  The  heat  is 
unbearable,  and  to  get  near  enough  to  the  shut-off  valve  to  be 
able  to  manipulate  it,  the  men  carry  metal  shields  and  are 
drenched  constantly  by  water  from  a big  hose  turned  on  them. 

Other  difficulties  sometimes  are  encountered.  When  well 
No.  4 of  the  Toteco  Field  came  in  on  Sept.  13,  1921,  at  a depth 
of  1,885  feet,  the  tools,  in  coming  out,  stuck  fast  in  the  81 
inch  casing  about  500  feet  from  the  bottom.  An  attempt  to 
pull  these  tools  out  brought  them  to  the  top  of  the  well 
where  they  wedged  tightly  with  the  steel  drilling  cable  in  the 
control  valve,  making  it  impossible  to  close  it.  It  was  flowing 
at  the  rate  of  5,000  bbls.  a day,  and  this  hard  stream,  with  the 
thousands  of  feet  of  choking  gas,  made  work  at  the  top  of  the 


CIUDAD  JUAREZ  TO  NUEVAS  CASAS  GRANDES  51 


utmost  difficulty.  Between  Sept.  13th  and  Oct.  12th,  on 
which  date  the  well  was  brought  under  control,  every  con- 
ceivable scheme  known  to  the  operators  was  employed.  Their 
genius  eventually  won,  but  not  before  oil  estimated  at  between 
seven  and  eight  hundred  thousand  barrels  had  been  lost. 

Pumping  is  not  usually  resorted  to  in  the  Mexico  fields. 
When  the  oil  in  a pool  is  exhausted,  salt  water  ( agua  salada ) 
:s  forced  out  and  the  well  is  regarded  as  dead  or  finished,  — 
albeit  sometimes  such  wells  produce  again  in  small  quantities. 

The  student  interested  in  petroleum  may  consult:  A Treatise  on  Pe- 
troleum, by  Sir  Boverton  Redwood , Bart.,  D.Sc.,  F.R.S.E.  ( Charles  Grif- 
fin &Co.,  London).  — American  Petroleum  Industry, by  Bacon  & Hammer 
( McGraw-Hill  Book  Co.,  New  York). — Oil  and  Gas  Production,  by  Johnson 
& Huntley  ( John  Wiley  & Sons,  New  York). — -Mexican  Oil  Fields,  by 
L.G.  and  Stirling  Huntley  (Mining and  Metallurgy,  Sept.  1921,  page  27). — 
Petroleum  Laws  of  America,  by  J.  W.  Thompson  (Bulletin  206,  U.  S.  Bureau 
of  Mines). 

The  author  is  indebted  for  certain  of  the  foregoing  information  to  Mr. 
C.  W.  Hamilton  and  Mr.  S.  A.  Grogan,  of  the  Mexican  Gulf  Oil  Co.,  Tam- 
pico; Mr.  G.  C.  Smith,  of  the  International  Petroleum  Co.,  Tampico; 
Mr.  I.  B.  Sutton,  of  the  General  Machinery  & Supply  Co.,  Tampico;  Mr. 
Jack  H.  Hott,  General  Manager  of  the  American  Chamber  of  Commerce, 
of  Tampico;  Mr.  Lee  Shippey,  Publicity  Director  of  the  same  organization, 
and  Mr.  Jack  D.  H ickerson,  Vice  Consul  de  Carri6re,  in  charge  of  the 
American  Consular  Service,  at  Tampico. 


12.  From  Ciudad  Juarez  (El  Paso ) to  Nuevas 
Casas  Grandes. 

MEXICO  NORTH-WESTERN  R.  R.  (F.  C.  Nor-Oeste  de  Mex.) 

250  K.  (156  M.).  For  time  of  arrival  and  departure  of  trains,  fares,  etc.* 
consult  the  Rly.  Co.’s  folder.  Trains  arrive  and  leave  from  the  Mexico 
North-Western  Railway  Station,  about  500  yards  W.  of  that  of  the  National 
Railways  of  Mexico. 

Ciudad  Juarez,  p.  23.  The  line  parallels  that  of  the  Nat. 
Rlys.  to  22  K.  Mesa , then  it  branches  off  and  trends  toward 
the  S.-W.,  crossing  a fine  agricultural  and  grazing  country. 
The  region  was  once  the  habitat  of  many  wild  mustangs.  The 
mountains  which  cut  the  northern  sky-line  are  said  to  contain 
gold.  The  nopal  and  other  cacti,  with  which  the  country  is 
liberally  sprinkled,  are  described  at  p.  lxxxi.  The  gradient 
begins  to  slope  upward  almost  as  soon  as  we  leave  C.  Juarez 
and  it  continues  upward  until  240  K.  Nuevas  Casas  Grandes 
(see  p.  54),  5,200  ft.  above  the  sea-level,  is  reached.  At  125 
K.  Guzman  the  rails  sweep  due  south,  but  turn  westward  again 
at  183  K.  San  Pedro  Junction , from  which  point  a short  branch 
line  runs  northward  to  the  celebrated  mining  region  of  San 
Pedro.  To  the  far  r.  of  this  point,  near  155  K.  Sabinal,  on  our 
own  line,  is  the  equally  famous  mining  region  of  Sabinal. 
From  S.  Pedro  Jet.  onward  to  the  present  terminus  of  the 
riy.  near  the  Sierra  Madre  foothills  the  direction  is  S.-W.  It 


52  CIUDAD  JUAREZ  TO  XUEVAS  CASAS  GRAXDES 


is  the  intention  to  extend  the  road  across  the  mountains  to 
the  Pacific  Ocean. 

The  region  which  has  but  recently  been  penetrated  by  the 
Mexico  North-Western  R.  R.  ( F . C.  Nor-Oeste)  is  still  known 
to  but  comparatively  a few,  but  it  is  indubitably  destined  to 
become  widely  known;  alike  to  the  tourist,  the  prospector, 
the  hunter,  farmer  and  capitalist.  Its  natural  and  almost 
wholly  undeveloped  resources  are  little  short  of  phenomenal. 
Hundreds  of  square  miles  of  virgin  timber-land  clothe  the  un- 
peopled slopes  of  the  mountains ; gold,  silver,  and  other  min- 
erals lie  almost  upon  the  surface  of  the  land,  the  broad  prairie 
reaches  and  the  flower-decked  woodlands  have  been  called 
the  “greatest  natural  game  preserve  on  the  American  con- 
tinent,” and  the  climate  is  one  of  almost  matchless  benignity. 
The  Tarahumare  Indians,  whose  range  is  along  the  western 
border  of  the  district,  often  live  to  be  a hundred  or  more,  and 
they  are  celebrated  throughout  Mexico  for  their  longevity  and 
their  amazing  feats  of  endurance  (comp.  p.  57).  The  atmo- 
sphere is  of  a purity  perhaps  undreamed-of  in  modern  towns 
and  cities.  The  superb  warm  days  and  the  cool,  sleepful  nights 
will,  perchance,  in  the  years  to  come,  restore  health  to  many 
a tired  worker  who  will  seek  this  place  as  one  of  the  few 
remaining  where  Mother  Nature  still  holds  sway.  It  is  a prim- 
itive region,  but  primitiveness  is  somehow  inseparably  associ- 
ated with  virility,  and  the  spirit  of  this  is  unbounded  and 
everywhere  apparent  in  the  Sierra  Madre  country.  Bitter  cold 
is  unknown,  and  albeit  the  higher  reaches  of  the  mountains 
are  sometimes  bathed  in  a keen  cold  air,  these  are  spots  which 
the  average  settler  is  not  likely  to  seek.  The  so-called  winter 
is  like  May  or  October  in  New  England,  but  with  an  absence 
of  bleak  days  and  a preponderance  of  sunshine  and  winsome 
blue  skies.  Flowers  in  almost  endless  variety  bloom  through- 
out the  year,  and  the  exceptionally  fertile  soil  of  the  region  con- 
tiguous to  Casas  Grandes  produces  a myriad  fine  fruits  which 
seem  to  bloom  and  mature  perennially.  The  Mormons  of  Utah 
were  among  the  first  to  see  the  advantages  of  the  region,  and 
th eColoniaDublan,  C.  Juarez  and  other  settlements  in  the  Casas 
Grandes  district,  though  founded  less  than  three  decades  ago, 
are  perhaps  the  richest  and  most  promising  in  the  Republic. 

The  Casas  Grandes  themselves  (described  at  p.  54)  are  the 
crumbling  remains  of  a city  which  existed  here  perhaps  a 
thousand  years  ago,  and  they  are  of  never-failing  interest  to 
the  antiquary  interested  in  the  history  of  the  first  Americans. 

“The  Sierra  Madre  in  the  late  summer  and  autumn  is  the  most  beauti- 
ful region  imaginable.  The  rainy  season  has  forced  the  growing  things 
through  their  spring-time  and  flower-time  in  the  short  space  of  two 
months.  The  real  spring  in  these  mountains  is  in  the  months  of  July  and 
early  August,  then  comes  the  short  summer,  and  when  September  is 
gone  it  is  autumn.  But  what  a wealth  of  wonderful  things  nature  spreads 
forth  in  those  few  short  months!  Flowers,  a thousand  kinds,  some  of  the 


HUNTING  IN  THE  SIERRA  MADRES  53 


northern  woods,  some  of  the  warm  southland,  and  some  of  the  tropics  — 
all  blooming  together  and  crowding  one  another  for  breathing  space. 
Colors  that  overwhelm;  so  gorgeous,  so  dainty,  so  pure,  so  brilliant  are 
they  that  they  dominate  the  world  as  one  sees  it  then.  The  oaks  will 
show  the  ruddiness  of  youth  and  the  deep  green  of  the  mature  leaf  at  the 
same  time.  The  now  reddening  maples  send  their  winged  messengers 
afar,  while  at  their  feet  tiny  young  shoots  are  bravely  making  their  way 
toward  the  source  of  their  life. 

“The  sky  is  cloudless.  The  sun  shines  warmly.  The  air  is  crisp  and 
dry  and  cool.  The  nights  are  frosty  and  the  days  friendly.  The  stars 
shine  so  brightly  at  night  that  they  cast  shadows.  The  air  is  a tonic,  a 
healing  and  refreshing  draught.  The  springs  are  sweet  and  the  busy 
streams  — many  and  clear  — sing  soothingly.  Then  it  is  that  the  game 
is  at  its  best.  Then  it  is  that  the  tired  city  worker  should  leave  his  cares 
behind,  and  with  pack  and  gun  go  into  the  wilderness  to  woo  back  his 
soul.  The  Sierra  Madre  has  a warm  heart,  whose  beat  will  instil  new  life 
and  vigor  in  him  who  seeks  his  happiness  there.” 

Hunting  (comp.  p.  lxxvii).  Game  abounds  in  the  Sierra 
Madre  region,  and  so  few  hunters  have  thus  far  penetrated 
beyond  the  foothills  that  the  majority  of  the  wild  creatures 
which  have  here  perpetuated  their  kind  for  mayhap  unnum- 
bered centuries  are  far  too  guileless  for  their  own  preserva- 
tion. The  game-infested  district  is  so  extensive  that  almost 
every  hunter  who  reaches  it  can  count  upon  a “reservation” 
for  himself  alone.  The  game  laws  are  so  liberal  that  one  need 
scarcely  have  any  concern  about  them : all  the  owners  of  the 
land  ask  of  the  hunter  is  that  he  will  not  wantonly  destroy 
the  game.  Chief  among  the  animals  to  be  met  with  in  the 
higher  reaches  of  the  Sierra  is  the  terrible  grizzly  of  the  Rockies 
( Ursus  horribilis),  “Old  Ephraim  himself,”  who  is  here  prac- 
tically unhunted,  and  who,  because  of  the  uncommon  healthful- 
ness of  his  habitat,  is  possessed  of  a vitality  even  more  amazing 
than  that  of  his  brother  beyond  the  Rio  Grande.  That  sturdy 
fighter  the  jaunty  “silver-tip”  comes  next,  and  following  him 
in  the  downward  scale  are  several  varieties  of  brown  bear, 
the  panther,  lynx,  civet  and  wild-cat;  the  mountain  lion, 
jaguar,  gray  timber  wolf,  red  and  silver  fox,  mountain  sheep, 
several  varieties  of  deer,  a host  of  rabbits  and  a small  world  of 
feathered  game.  On  the  plains  are  antelope,  coyotes  and 
whatnot. 

The  Best  Time  for  Hunting  is  from  the  first  of  Oct.  to 
the  first  of  Dec.  Not  only  is  the  weather  at  this  season  most 
nearly  perfect,  but  the  game  is  at  its  best.  There  is  one  ex- 
ception to  the  latter,  for  the  fur  of  the  bear  is  better  after  he 
comes  out  of  his  winter  quarters.  The  bears  “ hole  up  ” about 
the  middle  of  Dec.  Prior  to  that  time  there  is  good  hunting 
for  them,  all  through  Oct.  and  Nov.  In  April  and  May  the 
fur  is  in  still  better  condition  than  in  the  fall.  The  season 
for  mountain  sheep,  deer  and  antelope  is  from  Sept.  1 to 
March  1.  Mountain  lions  may  be  had  at  any  time.  The 
jaguar  can  be  hunted  to  the  best  advantage  between  the  first 
of  Feb.  and  June.  This  represents  the  dry  season,  and  life 
in  the  woods  is  free  from  discomforts.  The  mountain  sheep  — 


54  Route  12. 


THE  CASAS  GRANDES 


which  are  always  difficult  to  get  — are  found  in  the  greatest 
number  on  the  barren  crags  and  rocky  stretches  to  the  east 
of  the  railway.  Black-tailed  deer  and  antelope  are  often  seen 
from  the  cars.  To  get  the  larger  bear  and  the  mountain  lions 
and  wild-cats,  one  must  leave  the  railway  and  travel  to  the 
higher  reaches  of  the  mountains  toward  the  west,  among  the 
pine  timber.  Dogs  are  necessary. 

Guides  and  Equipment.  These  can  be  obtained  either  at 
El  Paso  (Texas)  or  at  Casas  Grandes  — near  the  end  of  the 
railway.  The  usual  pay  of  a guide  (who  furnishes  his  own 
horse)  is  from  S5  to  88  a day,  Mexican  money.  The  guides 
to  be  found  at  Casas  Grandes  and  the  adjacent  Colonies , 
sometimes  provide  a cook,  provender  and  regular  camp- 
equipment  (which  does  not  include  guns  and  ammunition) 
at  prices  ranging  from  S20  a day  for  one  man  to  a lower  price 
according  to  the  number  in  the  party.  Detailed  information 
can  always  be  had  from  any  official  of  the  railway  company. 
Equipment  passed  into  Mexico  from  the  United  States  must  be 
bonded  (or  the  duty  paid)  at  the  border,  if  the  customs  duties 
are  to  be  refunded.  The  manufacturer’s  number  on  each 
gun  is  registered.  Ammunition  must  be  paid  for  at  the  rate 
of  about  30  c.  (U.  S.  money)  per  lb.  Duty  is  also  assessed  on 
provisions.  For  a fee  of  82.50  (U.  S.  money)  the  customs 
agent  of  the  railway  will  attend  to  all  details  connected  with 
the  passing  and  bonding  of  outfits  through  the  custom-house. 

The  celebrated  Casas  Grandes,  or  big  houses,  a deserted  and  ruinous 
village  in  which  four  or  five  thousand  persons  — perchance  the  first 
Americans  — are  supposed  to  have  lived  in  ages  past,  lies  1 M.  south  of 
the  present  pueblo  (town)  of  Casas  Grandes  on  the  crest  of  a ridge  com- 
manding a wide  sweep  of  territory.  The  ruins  differ  materially  from  the 
beautiful  palaces  of  Uxmal  (p.  5S0).  Chichen-Itza  (p.  581)  and  Palenque 
(p.  567)  and  their  low  order  of  architecture  bears  a closer  resemblance 
to  that  of  the  Indian  pueblos  of  Arizona  and  New  Mexico  than  to  the 
stone  palacios  of  the  early  Mexicans.  The  building  material  is  mud 
mixed  with  gravel  moulded  into  large  adobes,  or  bricks,  and  the  rooms 
are  superimposed  like  those  of  the  Zuni  Indians  of  New  Mexico.  None  of 
the  clustered  houses  are  intact  ; the  roofs  have  fallen  in.  and  six  or  eight 
mounds  — the  highest  some  20  ft.  above  ground  — are  all  that  remain 
of  a group  of  buildings  of  which  history  even  has  no  record.  In  their 
present  state  they  offer  little  of  interest  to  other  than  an  archaeologist. 

Several  fairly  well  constructed  irrigating  ditches  surround  the  ruins, 
and  some  5 M.  to  the  S.-W.,  perched  on  the  summit  of  a high  knoll,  is  a 
time-worn  watch-tower,  from  the  top  of  which  one  commands  an  exten- 
sive view.  Perchance  sharp-eyed  Indian  sentinels  stood  guard  here  aeons 
of  ages  ago  and  scanned  the  wide  horizon  for  signs  of  an  approaching  foe. 
This  old  fortress  is  40  ft.  in  diameter,  round,  and  defended  on  its  most 
accessible  side  by  a crumbling  wall  several  ft.  thick  and  about  10  ft. 
high.  The  outlines  of  four  small  rooms  can  be  traced  in  the  centre  of  the 
structure.  Time  and  torrential  rains  have  greatly  reduced  what  was  once 
a large  edifice. 

Specimens  of  unusually  good  Indian  pottery  have  been  dug  up  near 
the  Casas  Grandes  : certain  of  the  pieces  are  superior  in  quality  and  decor- 
at ion  to  that  usually  made  by  the  New  Mexico  Indians.  Pottery  similar 
in  design  but  of  a lower  order  of  craftsmanship  has  also  been  found  in  the 
San  Diego  and  the  Piedras  Verdes  valleys  near  by.  Mr.  Carl  Lumholtz 
secured  several  hundred  pieces  of  this  ware  during  his  researches  in  the 


LAS  COLONIAS  DE  GALEANA  12.  Rte.  55 


district,  and  in  his  conception  some  of  the  specimens  “are  of  rare  delicacy 
and  rich  in  taste,  feeling  and  coloring.”  They  form  “a  transition  from 
the  culture  of  the  pueblos  of  Arizona  and  New  Mexico,  to  that  of  the 
Valley  of  Mexico,  a thousand  miles  further  south.”  “The  clay  employed 
in  their  manufacture  was  quite  fine,  white,  with  a slightly  grayish,  yellow 
tinge.  The  decorative  designs,  which  are  varied  and  interesting,  are  in 
black,  and  black-and-red.  The  decorations  of  birds  and  serpents  are  of  a 
form  which  indicate  that  the  makers  were  influenced  by  the  Aztec  potters 
of  the  Valley  of  Mexico.  Pieces  of  a black  ware,  with  a very  high  polish, 
were  also  found.”  It  is  quite  within  reason  to  believe  that  the  Aztecs 
themselves  built  the  Casas  Grandes , dwelt  therein  and  made  pottery 
there  prior  to  their  long  peregrination  southward  in  search  of  the  mystit 
symbol  (comp.  p.  clxiv)  which  was  to  end  their  wanderings  and  permit 
them  to  establish  their  empire. 

The  Casas  Grandes  region  was  long  the  chosen  rendezvous  of  the 
Chiricahua  Apaches,  and  many  of  their  trails  and  monuments  — usually 
mere  heaps  of  stones  — are  to  be  found  on  the  higher  reaches  of  the  Sierra 
Madre  Mountains.  Since  the  U.  S.  Government  put  the  Apaches  on 
reservations,  men  of  this  tribe  are  rarely  met  with  in  this  section. 

Many  ruins  of  casas  blancas  (white  houses)  dot  the  landscape  of  this 
region,  and  the  barrancas  of  the  less  accessible  cross-spurs  of  the  moun- 
tains are  perforated  by  the  deserted  and  silent  homes  of  the  early  cave- 
dwellers.  The  most  extensive  remains  of  these  lie  some  miles  to  the  S. 
of  the  Casas  Grandes , near  the  pueblo  of  Chuhuichupa  (place  of  the  dead), 
and  were  brought  to  light  in  1892  by  Mr.  C.  H.  Taylor  of  the  C.  Lum- 
holtz  Expedition.  “They  are  in  a huge  cave  in  a gorge  on  the  northern 
slope  of  the  Garrabato  arroyo.  The  cave  is  in  a conglomerate  formation, 
faces  east,  and  lies  about  215  ft.  above  the  bottom  of  the  gorge.  The 
ascent  is  steep  and  somewhat  difficult.  At  a little  distance,  the  high, 
regular  walls  of  the  houses,  with  their  many  doors  and  window  openings, 
present  a striking  contrast  to  their  surroundings  of  jagged  cliffs  and  a 
wilderness  of  woods.  Some  of  the  walls  have  succumbed  to  the  weight 
of  ages,  but  on  the  whole,  the  ruins  are  in  a good  state  of  preservation. 
The  space  covered  by  the  houses  and  fallen  walls  is  125  ft.  deep  from  side 
to  side,  and  35  ft.  deep  at  the  central  part  of  the  dwellings.  The  roof 
of  the  cave,  or  rather  the  overhanging  cliff,  is  80  ft.  above  the  floor  at 
its  highest  point.  The  houses  are  arranged  in  an  arc  or  half-circle  so  large 
as  hardly  to  deviate  from  a straight  line.  The  front  row  is  but  one  story 
high,  while  the  adjoining  row  back  of  it  is  two  stories.  Each  room,  of 
which  there  are  more  than  a score,  is  about  12  ft.  square  with  walls  vary- 
ing in  thickness  from  15  inches  at  the  base  to  7 inches  at  the  top.  The 
surfaces  of  the  walls  are  smooth  and  show  evidences  of  carrying  six  or 
eight  coats  of  plaster.  The  floors  are  smoothly  cemented  and  are  as  hard 
as  stone.  A hall  40  ft.  long  and  7 ft.  high  traverses  the  building.  This 
hall  was  formerly  roofed  with  heavy  rafters,  as  the  wall  sockets  are  yet 
visible.  At  the  end  of  this  space,  in  the  upper  story,  is  a room  decorated 
in  red,  while  the  space  around  the  entrance  is  painted  in  a delicate  shade 
of  lavender.  Nothing  except  fragments  of  a stone  axe  and  a piece  of 
matting  were  found  in  this  deserted  building.” 


The  Mormon  Settlement  of  Dublan  is  a few  miles  distant 
from  Casas  Grandes  up  the  Casas  Grandes  Valley.  Several 
outlying  colonies  — Juarez,  Diaz  and  Fernandez  Leal  — are 
tributary  to  the  central  one.  The  group  is  often  referred  to  as 
Las  Colonias  de  Galeana,  from  the  district  in  which  they 
lie.  This  official  title  is  insisted  upon  by  Government  in  all 
legal  documents.  These  colonies  are  among  the  best  con- 
ducted and  the  most  prosperous  in  the  Republic.  The  Boer 
Colony,  fartherto  the  S.,  proved  a failure.  The  Mormons  num- 
ber 4,000  and  they  have  a fine  schoolhouse  which  cost  $75,000. 

Some  25  M.  south  of  the  Mormon  Colony  of  Chuhuichupa 


56  PRESIDIO  DEL  NORTE  TO  TOPOLOBAMPO 


is  a place  known  as  Cape  Valley,  where  there  is  another  huge 
cave  containing  a group  of  houses,  in  one  of  which  53  rooms 
are  still  fairly  well  preserved.  Near  by  are  some  ancient  grana- 
ries, circular  in  shape,  and  from  15  to  20  ft.  high.  From  time  to 
time  the  newspapers  of  the  Republic  contain  stories  of  miners 
who  have  explored  the  inner  fastnesses  of  the  Sierra  Madres 
and  have  seen  Indians  supposed  to  belong  to  the  cave-dwell- 
ing tribes.  Many  people  believe  they  exist  near  Maguari- 
chic.  Huge  caves  containing  deposits  of  mummies  have  been 
found  in  this  vicinity.  (Consult  Bancroft’s  Native  Races.) 

13.  From  Presidio  del  Norte  via  Chihuahua  to 
Topolobampo. 

KANSAS  CITY,  MEXICO  AND  ORIENT  RAILWAY. 

635  M.  from  the  Rio  Grande  at  the  Mex.  border,  and  1659  from  Kansas 
City  (U.  S.  A.),  the  northern  terminus.  Certain  portions  of  the  Mexican 
extension  are  still  under  construction  and  trains  do  not  yet  run  through. 
For  detailed  information  consult  the  latest  folder  of  the  Rly.  Co.  or  the 
Guia  Oficial.  From  Chihuahua  (see  below)  to  Mihaca  (p.  61)  the 
Orient  Co.  uses  the  rails  of  the  Chihuahua  and  Pacific  Railway  (p.  63). 
Trains  enter  and  leave  the  C.  and  P.  station  at  Chihuahua,  on  the  S.-W. 
side  of  the  city. 

Presidio  del  Norte,  where  the  Orient  line  penetrates  to 
Mexico,  is  on  the  Rio  Grande , at  the  junction  of  the  Conchos 
River,  about  midway  between  El  Paso,  the  N.  terminus  of  the 
National  Rlys.,  and  Eagle  Pass,  the  end  of  the  International 
Line.  The  customs  examinations,  quarantine  regulations  and 
other  international  formalities  are  similar  to  those  mentioned 
at  p.  1. 

The  railway  curves  toward  the  S.,  traverses  a number  of 
Mexican  ranchos  and  skirts  the  southern  edge  of  the  fertile 
Rio  Conchos  Valley.  The  line  sweeps  toward  the  N.  and 
crosses  the  Conchos  River , on  a fine  steel  bridge,  near  Rancho 
Viejo.  Near  109  M.  Encantada  (4,260  ft.)  there  is  a mountain 
of  almost  pure  iron  similar  to  the  Iron  Mt.  of  Durango , de- 
scribed at  p.  103.  We  traverse  a fine  upland  country  (3,000- 
5,000  ft.)  devoted  to  agriculture  and  stock-raising. 

147  M.  Aldama.  We  cross  the  Rio  Chuviscar  on  a ten-span 
steel  bridge.  The  rly.  line  runs  due  W.  to  167  M.  Chihuahua 
(described  at  p.  26),  where  the  Orient  line  crosses  that  of  the 
National  Rlys.  of  Mexico  (Rte.  6,  p.  25). 

The  west-bound  train  leaves  from  the  station  of  the  Chi- 
huahua and  Pacific  Railway  and  runs  toward  the  S.-W.  across 
a beautiful  upland  plain  devoted  to  stock-raising.  Some  of  the 
haciendas  hereabout  are  the  largest,  in  point  of  size,  in  Mexico. 
We  pass  the  nondescript  stations  of  16  M.  Salas  and  33  M. 
Santa  Isabel.  Here  the  line  curves  sharply  and  runs  northward 
to  51  M.  San  Andres , whence  it  trends  toward  the  N.-W.  The 


TARAHUMARE  INDIANS  13.  Route.  57 


grade  is  steadily  upward.  Beyond  63  M.  Bustillo  we  skirt  the 
S.  shore  of  the  Laguna  de  Castilla , 6,483  ft.  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  Beyond  82  M.  San  Antonio  (6,710  ft.)  we  enter  the 
foothills  of  a spur  of  the  Sierra  Mad, re  Mountains.  Between 
this  point  and  Mesa  Station  (see  p.  61)  the  splendid  “ Mother 
Range”  describes  a gigantic  reverse  curve,  several  hundred 
miles  in  length,  and  forms  an  irregular  Continental  Divide, 
from  one  slope  of  which  the  waters  flow  to  the  Atlantic  and 
from  the  other  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  rly.  line  crosses  the 
range  at  three  separate  points,  now  descending  into  the  At- 
lantic, now  into  the  Pacific  basin.  The  scenery  in  certain 
places  is  magnificent.  The  entire  region  has  hitherto  been 
more  or  less  a sealed  book  to  the  travelling  world,  but  when 
the  grandeur  of  its  mountain  scenery  is  appreciated  and  its 
wide,  game-haunted  woodlands  penetrated,  it  will  undoubt- 
edly become  a popular  tourist  resort.  The  best  exponents  of 
the  almost  matchless  climate  are  the  Tarahumare  Indians , 
many  of  whom  live  to  a great  age. 

The  train  climbs  over  the  first  ridge  at  100  M.  Pedernales 
(7,549),  at  a higher  elevation  than  that  of  Mexico  City.  We 
descend  the  western  slope  of  the  barrier  to  166  M.  La  Junta , 
a junction  of  the  branch  line  ( Ramal  de  la  Junta  a Temosa- 
chj,c),  which  runs  in  a northerly  direction  to  54  M.  Temo- 
sachic  — a town  in  the  heart  of  the  Indian  region  referred 
to  below. 

By  far  the  most  interesting  people  of  the  northern  Sierra  Madre 
region  are  the  Tarahumare  Indians,  whose  range  is  from  Temosachic} 
at  the  N.,  to  the  southern  edge  of  the  State  of  Chihuahua.  The  25,000 
(approximate)  living  members  of  the  tribe  are  the  lees  of  a populous 
nation  which  the  Spanish  Conquistador es  found  in  possession  of  the  vast 
region  now  called  Chihuahua.  The  name,  Tarahumare , is  derived  from 
a curious  game,  or  race,  which  the  Indians  run  from  morning  till  night, 
driving  before  them  a large  ball.  Both  men  and  women  are  splendid 
runners  and  their  endurance  is  phenomenal.  Mr.  Lumholtz  (see  p.  ccxl) 
considers  the  Tarahumare  the  finest  runner  in  the  world.  “This  pro- 
pensity for  running  is  so  great  that  the  name  of  the  tribe  alludes  to  it. 
Tarahumare  is  a Spanish  corruption  of  raldmari,  the  meaning  of  which, 
though  somewhat  obscure,  may  doubtless  be  given  as  ‘foot-runners.’ 
A healthy  Tarahumare  will  easily  run  170  miles  without  stopping. 
When  sent  out  as  a messenger  he  goes  along  at  a slow  trot,  running  stead- 
ily and  constantly.  A man  has  been  known  to  carry  a letter  in  five  days, 
from  Guazapares  to  Chihuahua  City  and  back,  a distance  of  nearly  600 
miles  by  the  road.  While  executing  these  feats  of  endurance  the  Indians 
live  on  pinole , a native  dish  made  of  maize  and  water.  Where  the  Tara- 
humares  serve  the  Mexicans  they  are  often  employed  to  run  wild  horses 
into  the  corral.  It  may  take  them  two  or  three  days,  but  they  will  bring 
them  in;  the  horses  thoroughly  exhausted,  the  men  comparatively  fresh. 
In  the  same  way  they  will  run  down  a deer  following  it  for  days  through 
snow  and  rain,  until  the  animal  is  cornered  and  easily  shot  with  arrows, 
or  until  it  is  utterly  jaded  and  its  hoofs  dropping  off.  The  men  are  great 
hunters  and  expert  archers;  making  their  own  bows  and  arrows. 

“The  women  can  run  as  fast  and  as  far  as  the  men.  They  are  all  fond 
of  running  by  moonlight  or  torchlight;  the  races  sometimes  lasting  over 


. 1 The  numerous  towns  and  villages  in  the  state  with  names  terminat- 
ing in  chic  pertain  to,  or  were  formerly  inhabited  by,  these  Indians. 


58  Route  13.  TARAHUMARE  INDIANS 


two  or  three  days.  As  darkness  comes  on,  torches  of  resinous  pine- wood 
are  lighted  and  carried  along  to  illuminate  the  path  of  the  runners,  that 
they  may  not  stumble,  making  the  scene  one  of  extreme  picturesqueness, 
as  these  torch-bearers,  demon-like,  hurry  through  the  forest.  At  their 
local  running-races  the  men  sometimes  kick  a small  ball  before  them,  the 
women  using  a small  forked  stick  to  keep  the  ball  in  advance  of  them  as 
they  run.  It  is  certainly  a strange  sight  to  see  these  sturdy  amazons 
race  heavily  along  with  astonishing  perseverance.  When  creeks  or  water- 
holes  come  in  their  way  they  simply  lift  their  skirts,  a la  Diane , and  make 
short  work  of  the  crossing.” 

One  usually  gets  one’s  first  sight  of  the  Tarahumares  in  Chihuahua 
City,  whither  they  go  for  barter.  The  pure-bloods  are  an  interesting  folk  — 
honest,  truthful  and  industrious.  Where  they  have  become  Mexicanized, 
and  have  adopted  the  language  and  customs  of  their  neighbors,  they  are, 
as  a rule,  untrustworthy,  and  are  addicted  to  lying.  They  are  of  medium 
size,  muscular,  with  prominent  cheek-bones,  and  of  a light,  chocolate 
brown  color.  They  resent  the  encroachment  of  the  Mexicans,  but  only 
in  the  remote  and  less  desirable  regions  have  they  been  able  to  preserve 
their  native  language  and  religious  customs  and  teachings.  Both  men 
and  women  wear  long,  flowing,  jet-black  hair,  and  they  never  grow  bald. 
Beards  among  the  men  are  rare;  when  these  appear  the  hairs  are  plucked 
out,  whiskers  being  distasteful  to  the  people.  Their  devil  is  always 
represented  with  a beard,  and  they  call  the  Mexicans  derisively  shabotshi 
— the  bearded  ones.  The  men,  who  are  more  numerous  than  women,  are 
powerful  and  enduring.  Chastity  is  a noteworthy  characteristic  of  the 
tribe  and  to  this  is  perchance  attributable  their  remarkable  physical  en- 
durance and  long  life.  A strong  young  man  will  carry  a weight  of  100 
lbs.  or  more  on  his  head  for  hundreds  of  miles,  without  showing  fatigue. 
They  live  in  the  open,  are  remarkably  healthy,  and  many  attain  an  age 
of  a century  or  more.  They  love  heat  and  will  lie  naked  in  a scorching 
sun  that  would  shrivel  a white  man.  Despite  this  love  of  heat  they  bear 
cold  unflinchingly  and  they  make  nothing  of  travelling  barefoot  through 
six  inches  of  snow. 

The  section  of  the  Sierra  Madre  in  which  they  live  is  one  of  the  health- 
iest in  Mexico.  The  air  is  dry  and  fine,  and  the  region  is  a hunter’s  para- 
dise. Turkeys  and  similar  fowl  abound.  Despite  the  heavy  snows  — 
which  are  features  of  the  winter  climate  — a multitude  of  green  and 
yellow-headed  parrots  (the  latter  are  the  talkers)  make  the  district  their 
home  and  feed  on  the  pine  cones  which  grow  in  the  higher  sierras.  Ante- 
lope are  plentiful,  and  bears  are  often  met  with.  The  Indians  hunt  the 
former  by  wrapping  themselves  in  an  antelope  skin  and  stalking  the 
game  just  as  the  American  Indians  formerly  hunted  the  bison.1 

The  Tarahumares  kill  rabbits  with  a species  of  boomerang  (as  do  the 
Moqnis  of  New  Mexico),  a relic,  doubtless,  of  the  days  when  they  and 
their  Australian  kinsmen  crossed  the  Pacific  Ocean  by  the  chain  of  islands 
which  perhaps  once  linked  Asia  with  America. 

In  that  portion  of  the  Sierra  Madre  range  inhabited  by  the  Tarahu- 
mares there  is  to  be  found  the  largest  woodpecker  known  — Campephilvs 
imperiales.  This  splendid  bird,  which  usually  has  for  its  habitat  the 
rarely  travelled  highlands  of  the  Sierra , — that  reach  from  the  American 
frontier  at  the  N.  to  the  southernmost  point  of  the  range  in  the  Mexican 
State  of  Jalisco,  — is  seldom  found  in  museums:  the  male  bird  is  noted 
for  its  great  length  (it  sometimes  measures  2 ft.  from  the  tip  of  the  tail 
to  the  end  of  the  pointed  bill)  and  for  its  gorgeous  crest.  The  plumage 
of  the  male  is  black-and-white;  that  of  the  female  is  more  subdued  in 
tone.  The  birds  are  generally  found  in  pairs  and  are  usually  too  shy 
to  be  trapped  or  shot.  The  Tarahumares  consider  them  such  a great  deli- 
cacy that  they  will  cut  down  a big  tree  that  contains  a nest  with  eggs  or 
young  birds.  The  Mexicans  shoot  them  w’hen  possible,  believing  their 
plumage  beneficial  to  health.  When  secured  the  feathers  are  held  close  to 
the  ears  to  thus  impart  their  alleged  magnetism  and  keep  out  the  bad 


1 Hunters  will  like  to  remember  that  a species  of  poison  ivy  grows 
luxuriantly  on  these  mountain  slopes,  and  is  to  be  avoided. 


AMERICAN  CAVE-DWELLERS  13.  Route.  59 


effects  of  the  wind.  A characteristic  of  this  giant  woodpecker  is  that  a 
pair  will  attack  a huge  tree  and  feed  upon  it  till  it  falls. 

Some  of  the  Tarahumare  characteristics  are  very  peculiar.  Bashful- 
ness is  a tribal  trait.  The  women  do  the  wooing  and  the  marriage  cere- 
mony is  so  simple  as  scarcely  to  deserve  the  name.  When  a mother  feels 
her  time  approaching  she  retires  to  some  lonely  and  secluded  spot  in  the 
woods,  being  too  bashful  to  bear  her  child  while  others  are  about.  She 
tightens  her  girdle  around  her  waist,  holds  on  to  the  branch  of  a tree 
and  bears  her  child  in  a sitting  posture.  After  the  little  one  is  born  the 
husband  brings  the  wife  a jar  of  warm  water  from  which  she  occasionally 
drinks.  The  mother  may  lie  down  for  that  day,  but  the  next  morning 
finds  her  at  work  as  if  nothing  had  been  amiss  with  her. 

The  dress  of  the  men  is  very  scanty,  and  though  they  usually  wear  a 
blanket  when  in  a town  or  city,  they  go  naked  or  clad  in  a home-spun 
breech  clout,  of  wool,  when  among  their  native  hills.  The  attire  of  the 
women  is  almost  as  simple;  a short  tunic,  a skirt  and  rope  sandals,  with 
the  traditional  string  of  beads.  The  tunic  is  discarded  when  they  are 
away  from  civilization.  They  dislike  mirrors,  preferring  not  to  look  at 
themselves.  To  both  men  and  women  the  Mexicans  smell  like  pigs  and 
the  Americans  like  coffee;  both  offensive  odors  to  them. 

The  priests,  or  medicine  men,  often  tie  rags  about  their  heads  to  keep 
their  thoughts  from  escaping.  Both  sexes  like  to  adorn  themselves  with 
strings  of  glass  beads,  pieces  of  shell,  and  necklaces  made  of  the  seeds  of 
a plant  known  a,s  Coix  calachryma-J obi  (tears  of  Job).  The  medicine 
men  are  never  without  several  strings  of  these  beads,  to  which  they  at- 
tribute curative  properties.1 

Many  members  of  the  tribe  dwell  in  caves,  and  are  known  as  the  Amer- 
ican Cave-Dwellers.  The  Indians  consider  their  caves  — which  are 
met  with  almost  anywhere  in  the  Sierra  Madres  — as  safer  and  more 
natural  shelters  than  they  could  build  for  themselves.  Back  beneath 
the  arching  and  overhanging  roof  of  some  big  cavern  the  Tarahumare 
will  build  several  small  rooms  of  adobe,  or  sun-dried  brick,  and  with 
these  as  storerooms  and  living-rooms  he  is  content.  In  front  of  the 
entrance  to  the  cavern  there  is  generally  a stone  or  mud  wall,  three  or 
more  ft.  high,  as  a protection  against  weather  and  wild  beasts.  Many 
of  the  caverns  contain  natural  springs  of  water  which  supply  the  occu- 
pants. Sometimes  the  floor  space  is  extended  by  an  artificial  terrace  in 
front  of  the  cave,  the  largest  of  which  are  a hundred  or  more  feet  in 
width  and  forty  or  nfty  in  depth.  Inhabited  caves  are  rarely  found  in 
inaccessible  places,  as  is  the  case  with  the  Cliff-Dwellers  in  the  S.-W.  of 
the  U.  S.  A.  Where  they  are  difficult  of  access  the  natives  reach  them 
by  means  of  crude  ladders  or  by  a stairway  cut  in  the  soft  rock.  Some 
Tarahumares  dwell  in  houses  made  of  low  stone  walls  covered  by  timbers 
that  slope  to  the  ground  and  form  a slanting  roof.  Those  who  live  in 
proximity  to  the  Mexicans  have  adobe  houses  with  thatched  roofs. 
Others  are  not  infrequently  made  by  placing  two  poles  upright  and  lean- 
ing beams  against  them. 

Tarahumare  Legends  and  folk-lore  point  to  an  extreme  antiquity. 
The  people  practice  fetish  worship  and  believe  that  stones  and  similar 
inanimate  things  possess  life.  A singular  religious  observance  is  the  cult 
of  a species  of  cactus  known  as  Mammilaria  and  as  Echinocactus  — in 
the  Tarahumare  tongue,  Hikuli.  These  plants  live  for  several  months 
after  they  are  uprooted,  and  the  eating  of  them  causes  a state  of 
ecstasy. 

The  Tarahumare  is  devoid  of  artistic  sense  and  his  pottery  is  similar 
to  that  found  in  the  ruins  of  Casas  Grandes  and  in  the  old  cliff-dwell- 
ings of  Arizona  and  New  Mexico.  The  native  wealth  lies  in  the  possession 
of  cattle.  If  a native  owns  three  or  four  head  of  cattle  and  a dozen  or  so 
goats  he  is  deemed  rich.  Corn  is  the  most  important  agricultural  product 
and  of  it  the  native  is  very  fond.  If  corn  is  not  forthcoming  as  food 


1 These  beads  are  plentiful  at  Cuernavaca  and  other  Mexican  towns, 
where  the  customary  price  i3  50  c.  for  a long  string.  It  is  said  that  peasant 
women  in  Spain  and  Italy  use  them  as  a talisman,  and  that  certain  classes 
in  the  U.  S.  A.  give  them  to  teething  children. 


60  Route  13.  THE  PIMA  INDIANS 


when  the  Indian  works  for  the  Mexican  he  quits  and  seeks  employment 
where  it  is  plentiful.  He  is  fond  of  deer,  mice,  gophers,  skunks  and  birds. 
His  chief  delicacy  is  the  secretion  of  a scale  insect  — Carteria  mexicana  — 
which  in  the  summer  months  is  gathered  from  the  branches  of  certain 
trees,  rolled  by  hand  into  thick,  brown  sticks,  and  laid  away  for  the 
winter.  It  is  said  to  be  efficacious  in  fever,  is  highly  prized  — particularly 
when  boiled  and  eaten  as  a sauce  with  porridge  — and  possesses  a sweet- 
ish acid  taste.  A false  truffle  (mentioned  as  a variety  of  the  European 
Melanogaster  variegatus,  and  known  as  the  species  mexicanus ) is  found 
in  the  highlands  and  is  also  much  prized;  it  is  plentiful  and  grows  an 
inch  or  two  below  the  surface  of  the  ground . Dogs  and  pigs  fatten  on  it 
and  are  employed  in  seeking  it.  It  tastes  like  an  over-ripe  pear  with  a 
suggestion  of  onion,  and  it  is  the  winter  food  of  coyotes,  foxes  and  bears. 
The  natives  make  and  drink  vast  quantities  of  a beer  called  tesvino, 
which  resembles  pulque  or  milky-white  water;  it  is  the  product  of  corn 
fermented,  is  slightly  intoxicating,  and  is  pleasing  to  the  taste.  The 
making  of  this  liquor,  which  is  used  in  all  the  celebrations  and  dances, 
is  one  of  the  chief  ceremonies  of  the  Indian  life  and  it  forms  an  integral 
part  of  the  tribal  religion. 

Near  the  village  of  Temosachic  is  a limestone  plain  known  as  Yepomera. 
From  layers  30  or  more  feet  below  the  surface  fossil  bones  are  dug.  The 
Indians  call  them  giant’s  bones  — huesos  de  gigantes  — and  they  grind 
them  up  into  a medicine  which  is  believed  to  be  a strengthener. 

For  further  information  under  this  head  consult  Unknown  Mexico , by 
Carl  Lumholtz,  2 vols. 

The  Pima  Indians,  who  are  allied  in  customs  and  language  to  the 
T arahumare8 , dwell  to  the  south  of  the  Tarahumare  region,  in  the  Sierra 
Madre  Mountains.  Still  further  to  the  S.,  near  the  border  of  the  state, 
is  the  important  mining  town  of  Guadalupe  y Calvo , picturesquely  situ- 
ated in  a deep  basin  surrounded  by  the  steep  slopes  of  the  Sierra  Madre 
plateau.  Seventeen  miles  to  the  N.  is  the  Tepehuane  village  of  Nabo- 
game— “where  the  nopal  grows.’’  Here  dwell  the  lees  of  the  fast- 
diminishing  Tepehuane  tribe,  dwindled  now  to  some  1,500  souls.  A few 
live  in  the  neighboring  villages  of  San  Francisco  de  Lajas,  Santiago 
Teneraca,  Milpillas  Chico , M.  Grande  and  Santa  Maria  Ocotlan.  The 
region  is  agriculturally  fine  and  it  marks  the  northernmost  limit  of  the 
tribe’s  former  domain.  These  Indians  resemble  the  T arahumares  in 
many  ways.  Their  language  is  hard  and  full  of  consonants;  not  a few  of 
the  Indians  speak  Spanish,  acquired  from  their  Mexican  neighbors. 
Many  odd  beliefs  prevail.  Finger-  and  toe-nails  are  permitted  to  grow 
long  — after  the  Chinese  fashion  — for  fear  that  cutting  them  will  pro- 
duce blindness.  A man’s  soul  is  supposed  to  be  located  between  his 
stomach  and  chest;  a sleeper  is  never  wakened,  as  his  soul  may  be  absent 
and  be  wandering  about.  When  a man  is  ill  his  soul  is  thought  to  be  ab- 
sent. Unmarried  women  are  not  permitted  to  eat  meat  from  the  spinal 
column  of  a deer,  as  their  backs  would  grow  curved  and  they  would  have 
the  bark-ache.  Animals  are  supposed  to  be  able  to  change  their  forms. 
An  odd  custom  of  the  tribe  relates  to  chastity.  Immorality  is  punished 
by  public  switching  on  the  bare  skin. 

The  Tepehuanes  have  a curious  musical  instrument  called  the 
tawitdl;  in  the  form  of  a bow,  nearly  two  meters  long.  It  is  formed  of  a 
large  round  gourd  on  the  top  of  which  is  fastened  a big  bow,  back  down  : 
a board  on  which  the  performer  places  his  foot  holds  it  in  position.  This 
instrument  is  called  the  “musical  bow”  and  in  sonorousness  it  resembles 
the  “ cello.’  The  shameni  beat  the  taut  string  with  two  sticks,  in  a rhythm- 
ical measure  of  one  long  and  two  short  beats.  W hen  dancing  to  its  music, 
men  and  women  wear  anklets  of  rattles  made  from  the  empty  dried  pods 
of  a palm.  The  religious  rites  of  the  Tepehuanes  are  similar  to  those  of 
the  T arahumares.  (Carl  Lumholtz.) 

South  of  the  Tepehuanes  region,  near  the  town  of  Morales,  live 
the  remainder  of  the  Tubar  tribe,  but  few  pure-bloods  of  which  re- 
main. They  intermarry  with  Mexicans.  Their  language  resembles  the 
Nahuatl  and  their  customs  those  of  the  T arahumares.  Many  curi- 
ous pieces  of  pottery  and  burnt  beads  have  been  taken  from  Tubar 
tombs. 


BARRANCA  DE  COBRE  13.  Route.  61 


122  M.  Minaca  (6,921  ft.),  on  a broad  mesa  or  upland  plain 
on  the  Pacific  slope  of  the  sierras.  The  town  is  a sort  of  out- 
fitting-post  for  many  of  the  mining-camps  which  lie  to  the 
S.  and  W.  Hotel  Minaca.  opposite  the  rly.  station  (couriers 
meet  all  trains),  S3  to  $4  Am.  PL  Outfits  and  guides  for  hunters 
or  prospectors  can  be  had  of  the  hotel  manager. 

From  Minaca  on  to  La  Junta  (on  the  Pacific  Coast  Division) 
the  stations  are  nondescript,  but  the  mountain  scenery  is  as 
wild  and  beautiful  as  any  to  be  found  in  the  Republic.  The 
hills  are  immensely  rich  in  minerals  and  the  region  is  dotted 
with  mining-camps.  We  cross  the  Guerrero  River  and  soon  enter 
the  Canon  of  the  Guerrero.  The  line  zig-zags  in  and  out  of  the 
gorges,  climbing  steadily  up  the  mountain-sides.  At  148  M. 
Pichachic  (7,225  ft.)  the  scenery  is  very  attractive.  The  town 
is  one  of  the  oldest  in  the  region,  with  a church  dating  from 
1665.  Many  Tarahumare  Indians  are  to  be  seen  hereabout. 
Beyond  Pichachic  the  gorge  deepens  and  the  difficult  engin- 
eering problems  have  necessitated  many  costly  cuts  and 
bridges. 

167.  M.  San  Juanito  (7,870  ft.),  in  the  midst  of  beautiful 
pine  woods.  The  tall,  lithe  trees  clothe  the  region  for  miles 
around,  and  several  American  saw-mills  are  at  work  hereabout 
cutting  lumber  and  railway  ties  for  shipment  to  other  points 
in  the  Republic. 

The  rly.  traverses  some  200  miles  of  magnificent  timber-land,  nearly 
600,000  acres  of  which  have  recently  been  purchased  by  Americans. 
Saw-mills  are  being  erected  and  considerable  quantities  of  turpentine  and 
resin  are  being  shipped  out. 

178  M.  Bocoyna  (7,287  ft.).  We  enter  the  picturesque 
Canon  of  the  Bocoyna  River , and  at  190  M.  Creel  (7,963  ft.)  we 
reach  the  highest  point  on  the  line  (one  mile  and  a half  above 
Presidio  and  the  Rio  Grande ) and  cross  the  western  spur  of 
the  Continental  Divide. 

At  225  M.  Mesa  (7,350  ft.)we  come  to  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful canons  in  Northern  Mexico,  and  the  finest  bit  of  scenery 
on  the  line.  About  1,000  yards  to  the  S.  of  the  railway,  and 
paralleling  it  for  a short  distance,  is  the  wonderful  Barranca 
de  Cobre  (Copper  Gorge),  a gigantic  rift  in  the  earth  over  a 
hundred  miles  long,  five  miles  wide  and  from  4,000  to  5,000 
ft.  deep.  At  this  point  it  forms  a horseshoe  curve  and  affords 
beguiling  views  down  the  chasm  to  the  right  and  left.  The 
Urique  River , a tributary  of  the  Rio  Fuerte,  flows  through  the 
canon.  Wild  scenery,  wild  game  and  wild  flowers  are  special- 
ties of  the  region.  Of  the  latter  there  is  an  almost  endless 
variety.  The  lower  reaches  of  the  gorge  riot  in  tropical  vege- 
tation, and  there  fruits  and  flowers  grow  that  would  not  thrive 
in  the  cold  uplands.  “Painted  like  a flower ’*  and  celebrated 
for  its  stupendous  and  awe-inspiring  scenery,  the  Barranca 


62  Route  13. 


TOPOLOBAMPO 


de  Cobre  is  a worthy  Latin-American  rival  of  the  beautiful 
Grand  Canon  of  the  Colorado  in  Arizona  (U.  S.  A.). 

It  is  down  grade  from  Mesa , and  between  this  point  and 
La  Junta , 105  miles  distant,  we  drop  from  7,350  ft.  to  less 
than  700.  The  scenery  is  wildly  picturesque. 

351  M.  La  Junta  (656  ft.),  at  the  top  of  the  beautiful  Rio 
Fuerte  Valley,  overlooking  an  amazingly  rich  and  tropical 
region,  is  contiguous  to  the  Fuerte  River , which  emerges  from 
the  mountains  hard  by  and  flows  through  the  State  of  Sinaloa 
to  the  sea.  To  the  X.  of  La  Junta,  in  the  magnificent  Septen- 
trion  Canon,  are  the  remains  of  the  homes  of  the  early 
Cliff-Dwellers,  while  on  the  walls  of  the  gorge  are  painted 
records  which  no  doubt  refer  to  this  vanished  race.  Not  far 
from  the  station  are  the  locally  celebrated  Hot  Springs  {Agua 
Caliente  de  Baca)  whose  medicinal  sulphur  waters  (110° 
Fahr.)  are  said  to  be  efficacious  in  rheumatic  ailments. 

The  line  soon  emerges  from  the  foothills  and  descends  the 
Rio  Fuerte  Valley  on  a gentle  gradient.  The  soil  of  this  favored 
region  is  phenomenally  deep  and  amazingly  productive.  Shel- 
tered by  the  Sierra  Madre  Range  from  the  cool  north  winds, 
warmed  by  a sempiternal  sun  and  drenched  by  tropical 
showers,  the  earth  brings  forth  riches  such  as  toiling  farmers 
in  certain  arid  regions  of  the  U.  S.  A.  perhaps  never  dreamed  j 
of.  Dates,  figs,  oranges,  lemons,  limes,  bananas,  pineapples,  1 
papayas  (comp.  p.  54S)  and  whatnot  are  but  a few  of  the  i 
multiplicity  of  fine  fruits.  Smiling  fields  of  sugar-cane  stretch  | 
away  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  while  the  more  homely  but 
equally  wealth-producing  crops  are  represented  by  Kaffir 
corn,  chick-peas,  potatoes,  tobacco,  wheat,  apples  and  an 
almost  endless  variety  of  tropical  and  sub-tropical  products. 

At  454  M.  Mochis  Junction,  the  line  enters  the  rich  Mochis 
Valley. 

467  M.  Topolobampo  (a  Yaqui  Indian  word  meaning  j 
tiger-water),  the  Pacific  terminus  of  the  railway,  1,659  M. 
from  its  northern  end,  at  Kansas  City,  Mo.,  500  M.  east  of 
San  Francisco,  and  a hundred  miles  E.  of  Salt  Lake  City,  in 
Utah.  The  town  occupies  a beautiful  situation  overlooking  the 
fine  Topolobampo  Bay,  in  the  Gulf  of  California.  The  bay 
swarms  with  fine  fish,  and  many  aquatic  birds  make  of  it  a 
permanent  breeding  place.  Here,  at  any  season  of  the  year, 
the  hunter  and  the  fisherman  find  inexhaustible  sport.  Game  j 
exists  in  the  hinterland,  there  is  no  close  season,  and  the  region  | 
is  practically  unhunted.  The  water  of  the  bay  is  so  deep  that  | 
ocean-going  ships  come  right  up  and  tie  to  the  wharf,  within  a 
few  feet  of  the  town.  The  latter  is  a port-of-call  for  several  I 
lines  of  ships  plying  between  California  at  the  North,  and  Pana- 
ma at  the  South.  Topolobampo’s  natural  advantages  will  make 
it.  in  time  to  come,  one  of  the  great  Pacific  ports  of  Mexico. 

The  excellent  ships  of  the  Mexican  States  Line,  and  the 


K.C.,  MEXICO  AND  ORIENT  RLY.  13.  Rte.  62 a 


Mexican  Navigation  Co.,  call  regularly  at  Topolobampo  and 
connect  with  ports  at  the  north  and  south.  Senores  Preciado 
Hermanos,  Agentes. 

While  it  perhaps  is  outside  the  province  of  a guidebook  to 
stress  the  material  advantages  of  a country  or  a region  it 
describes,  the  almost  unique  opportunities  along  the  line  of 
the  Kansas  City,  Mexico  & Orient  Railway  make  one  wish 
that  more  Americans  knew  of  the  region  and  its  amazing 
possibilities.  When  Baron  Alexander  Von  Humboldt  called 
Mexico  the  Treasure  House  of  the  World,  he  spoke  only  from 
surface  indications  and  a deficient  knowledge  of  the  untold 
wealth  of  this  then  undeveloped  country.  He  could  not  know 
of  more  than  a tithe  of  its  vast  resources,  but  what  his  keen 
vision  saw  convinced  him  that  it  was  a veritable  land  of 
promise.  When  he  was  in  Mexico  in  1804  oil  had  not  been  dis- 
covered, Spain  restricted  commercial  intercourse  to  her  own 
nationals,  forbade  all  but  the  most  limited  undertakings,  and 
was  content  with  the  silver  mines  as  visible  evidence  of  the 
land’s  potential  riches. 

Though  Mexico  to-day  possesses  more  than  20,000  miles  of 
railway,  is  the  greatest  silver  producing  country  of  the  world, 
is  second  in  the  production  of  copper  and  third  in  lead  and  zinc, 
it  is  essentially  the  land  of  opportunity  because  perhaps  nine- 
tenths  of  its  wealth  is  still  undeveloped.  What  show  are  but 
indications  of  what  lie  behind.  No  better  example  of  its  aston- 
ishing fruitfulness  exists  than  the  present  output  of  oil.  When 
the  oil  industry  was  in  its  infancy  in  1910,  a trifle  more  than 
10,000  bbls.  were  exported.  To-day  more  than  200  million 
bbls.  are  sent  out  of  the  country,  and  this  record  no  doubt 
will  be  exceeded  in  the  very  near  future.  Within  two  decades 
the  land  which  to-day  produces  this  vast  quantity  of  liquid 
gold  could  be  bought  for  50  cents  (U.  S.  money)  an  acre.  Its 
value  now  is  inestimable.  Mexico  still  has  thousands  of  acres 
of  land  that  can  be  bought  for  practically  the  same  price, 
the  surface  of  it  available  for  farming  or  ranching,  and  the  sub- 
soil perhaps  concealing  vast  pools  of  oil  or  veins  of  minerals. 

Sections  of  the  Republic  traversed  by  the  Kansas  City, 
Mexico  & Orient  Rly.  contain  some  of  the  finest  grazing 
lands  on  the  continent;  lands  which  need  only  the  deft  touch 
of  the  skilled  rancher  to  produce  riches  beyond  one’s  wildest 
dreams.  The  State  of  Chihuahua,  which  the  railway  crosses 
from  end  to  end,  is  larger  than  any  Central  American  Repub- 
lic, and  is  twice  the  size  of  Cuba.  Of  great  moment  is  the  fact 
that  it  is  separated  from  the  United  States  only  by  an  imagi- 
nary line.  More  than  one  railway  crosses  this  line,  while 
north  of  it  lies  a market  for  cattle  which  all  Latin  America 
cannot  supply.  In  Uncle  Sam’s  domain  there  is  a practically 
inexhaustible  demand  for  sheep  and  hogs,  horses  and  mules, 
beef  creatures,  hides  and  wool,  fruits  and  vegetables,  and  a 


62 b Rte.  13.  THE  LAND  OF  OPPORTUNITY 


score  of  other  things  that  can  be  produced  in  Mexico  on  cheap 
lands,  with  cheap  labor,  and  in  a region  where  people  live  to 
a great  age  because  the  climate  is  almost  perfect  and  in  con- 
sequence one  lives  out  of  doors  365  days  in  the  year. 

Mexico  itself  is  larger  than  Great  Britain,  France,  Germany,  Holland, 
Denmark,  Belgium,  Switzerland,  Italy,  Greece,  and  Cuba  combined,  with 
practically  every  climate  possessed  by  those  countries,  and  more  natural 
resources  than  all  of  them.  Hitherto  Mexico’s  greatest  development  has 
been  in  the  South,  due,  perhaps,  to  the  fact  that  Mexico’s  rulers  have  been 
southern  men,  and  that  the  greatest  political  activities  have  been  far  from 
the  American  line.  The  unique  advantage  of  being  within  a stone's  throw 
of  one  of  the  greatest  consuming  markets  in  the  world  was  not  appreciated. 
In  this  respect  the  Mexico  of  the  future  will  be  different  from  the  Mexico  of 
the  past. 

The  wonderful  oil  fields  of  the  Tampico  district  are  indications  of  what 
Northern  Mexico  is  capable  of;  as  are  also  the  extraordinarily  rich  silver 
mines  of  Chihuahua,  the  vast  grazing  lands  of  this  state  and  Sonora,  and 
the  uncounted  and  undeveloped  riches  of  Sinaloa,  in  which  Topolobampo 
is  situated. 

The  writer  hopes  that  Americans  will  not  be  negligent  in  securing  their 
share  of  the  great  wealth  of  this  land  of  opportunity.  Practically  every- 
thing awaits  development,  but  it  will  not  continue  to  wait.  A decade  or  so 
ago  certain  of  the  fertile  trucking  lands  between  Laredo  and  Brownsville, 
on  the  Texas  side  of  the  Rio  Grande,  could  be  had  for  a dollar  an  acre.  To- 
day it  is  worth  $500,  for  it  can,  and  does,  produce  Bermuda  onions,  canta- 
loupes and  other  specialties  equal  to  the  finest  grown  anyw'here.  The  land 
immediately  across  the  river,  in  Mexico,  differs  in  no  wise  from  that  on  the 
American  side.  Mexico  is  the  only  cattle-raising  country  with  cheap  lands 
north  of  the  equator.  Shipments  of  dressed  meats  that  come  from  the  Ar- 
gentine and  Australia  must  cross  the  equator,  be  frozen,  and  be  subject  to  a 
loss  of  time  and  freight  rates  very  considerably  greater  than  if  the  animals 
were  driven  across  the  Rio  Grande.  Some  of  the  timber  lands  along  the 
line  of  the  Kansas  City,  Mexico  & Orient  Rly.  rank  wdth  the  finest  on  the 
continent.  Everything  that  grows  in  any  sub-tropical  region  will  thrive  in 
Sinaloa  — cotton,  sugar,  grain,  the  finest  of  fine  fruits,  and  fibres  which 
few  other  countries  possess.  Since  it  is  much  like  Tamaulipas,  with  its  vast 
oil  pools  and  wells,  oil  no  doubt  lies  beneath  the  surface. 

Mexico  is  somewhat  unique  in  that  there  is  no  time  when  alert  Ameri- 
cans cannot  make  money  there.  During  the  recent  unrest,  when  fugitive, 
revolutionary  governments  forced  its  paper  money  upon  the  people,  ambi- 
tious Americans  with  a few  thousand  dollars  in  American  hanks  took  this 
money  to  Mexico,  there  got  anywhere  from  ten  to  twentjr  for  one  for  it, 
and  with  this  depreciated  currency  bought  property  which  now  is  worth 
from  ten  to  twenty  times  as  much  as  they  paid  for  it.  In  Mexico  City 
to-day  there  are  business  blocks  and  suburban  estates  worth  anywhere 
from  $75,000  to  $100,000,  which  Americans  bought  for  about  $5,000. 
Within  the  next  decade  they  will  be  worth  at  least  twice  their  present 
value.  Landed  estates  changed  hands  in  the  same  way.  It’s  an  ill  wind 
indeed  that  does  not  favor  far-sighted  foreigners  in  our  sister  Republic. 

Mexico  is  once  more  on  the  up  grade.  The  people  arc  tired  of  bootless 
revolutions,  and  a strong  and  able  government  means  to  keep  them  in  this 
mood.  Scores  of  opportunities  await  the  energetic  man,  for  Mexico  is 
only  on  the  threshold  of  its  real  development.  Americans  are  liked  by  the 
better  element  in  the  Republic,  and  usually  every  facility  is  offered  them  in 
their  efforts  to  establish  themselves  in  the  country.  Some  of  the  largest 
interests  are  in  American  hands.  Many  of  the  biggest  banks  are  Ameri- 
can. and  the  chief  railways  and  oil  fields  were  developed  by  Americans. 

The  American  interested  in  Mexican  lands,  mines,  oil  fields,  ranches,  sugar 
plantations,  fruit  farms,  etc.,  cab  get  helpful  information  from  The  Mexican 
International  Trust  Co.  (an  American  company),  with  offices  at  Callejon 
de  la  Condesa  8,  Mexico  City;  the  American  Chamber  of  Commerce  of 
Mexico,  at  Segunda  Motolinia  No.  23,  Mexico  City;  The  American  Cham* 
her  of  Commerce  of  Tampico,  Apartado  777,  Tampico,  Mexico,  etc. 


JIMENEZ  TO  ROSARIO  15.  Route.  63 


14.  From  Chihuahua  to  Mifiaca. 

CHIHUAHUA  AND  PACIFIC  RAILWAY. 

( Mexico  North-Western  R.  R.) 

194  K.  For  time  of  departure  of  trains,  fares,  etc.,  consult  the  rly.  folder 
or  the  Guia  Oficial.  The  scenery  along  the  line  is  described  at  p.  56,  Rte.  13. 


15.  From  Jimenez  via  Parral  to  Rosario. 

Trains  leave  Jimenez  from  the  main  line  station  of  the  National  Rlys. 
For  time  of  departure,  fares,  etc.,  consult  the  company’s  folder.  For  hotels, 
etc.,  comp.  Jimenez,  p.  33. 

When  the  train  quits  the  station  it  runs  parallel  to  the  main 
line  for  a short  distance,  crosses  a long  bridge,  then  sweeps 
round  to  the  W.  and  traverses  a fairly  level,  highly  cultivated 
country  in  which  numerous  flocks  of  goats  are  conspicuous 
features.  6 Kilom.  Orion.  A number  of  white-walled  haciendas 
are  visible  on  the  left,  and  beyond  them,  cutting  the  sky-line, 
is  a series  of  blue-peaked  hills.  Many  exaggerated  jack-rab- 
bits, with  long,  up-standing  ears,  lollop  away  from  the  passing 
train;  the  whistle  of  the  field-lark  is  heard.  The  eye  wanders 
over  large  grain-fields  destitute  of  trees. 

30  K.  Troya , in  the  midst  of  piles  of  gray  and  brown  metallic 
ores  awaiting  shipment  to  the  reduction  works  at  Torreon 
(p.  35).  The  mines  lie  off  in  the  distant  hills. 

40  K.  Baca , the  shipping-point  for  the  rich  ores  from  the 
mines  visible  in  the  hills  to  the  left.  A railway,  8 kilometers 
long,  runs  hence  to  the  Cigarrero  Mine  (see  below).  A wagon- 
ette also  conveys  passengers  to  and  from  the  camp  (fare 
50  c.  one  way,  SI  round  trip).  A well-beaten  highway  over 
which  all  the  ores  were  transported  prior  to  1907  leads  from 
the  station  to  the  hills.  The  district,  generally  known  as  the 
Almoloya,  is  one  of  the  most  important  mining  regions  in 
Mexico,  and  is  noted  for  its  almost  inexhaustible  deposits 
of  high-grade  gold,  silver  and  copper  ores. 

The  mines  lie  in  a mountain  ridge,  called  the  Sierra  de  Almoloya,  about 
7 miles  long  by  2 M.  wide,  which  rises  about  1 ,500  ft.  above  the  level  plain. 
The  oldest  mine,  Santa  Evlalia,  was  known  to  the  Indians  before  the 
Conquest,  and  although  it  has  been  wrorked  almost  continuously  for  up- 
wards of  four  centuries,  it  is  more  productive  to-day  than  ever.  An  almost 
equally  celebrated  mine,  El  Cigarrero,  owned  by  a Mexican  company, 
has  been  known  to  produce  one  hundred  thousand  pesos  worth  of  ore 
a month.  Many  other  rich  mines  are  worked  hereabout,  and  an  almost 
steady  stream  of  ore  passes  through  the  Baca  station  en  route  to  the 
Torreon  smelter.  The  Almoloya  region  is  also  celebrated  for  fluxing  ores 
which  contain  the  elements  necessary  for  fluxing  the  highly  silicious  ore 
produced  in  some  of  the  Parral  (p.  64)  mines, 

46  K.  Dorada.  59  K.  Morita.  We  leave  the  level  country 
and  traverse  a hilly  region  less  fertile  than  the  plains  we  have 
left.  The  land  is  crossed  by  dry  water-courses  many  feet 
below  the  level  of  the  adjacent  country.  During  the  rainy 


64  Route  16.  HIDALGO  DEL  PARRAL 


season  the  waters  which  deluge  the  dry  surface  race  down  the 
hillsides  and  cut  deep  gulleys  in  the  alluvial  soil.  In  the  tiny 
valleys  between  the  hills  are  cultivated  patches,  each  with  a 
small  well  and  a primitive  well-sweep,  constructed  of  a beam 
poised  on  a fulcrum  with  a heavy  stone  or  a basket  of  earth 
at  one  end  and  a long  rope  with  a bucket  suspended  from  the 
other.  These  original  see-saws  are  apparently  the  delight  of 
the  youngsters  who  ride  astride  the  beam  as  it  goes  up  and 
down.  65  K.  Adela.  76  K.  Gomera. 

83  K.  Maturana.  Bare  brown  hills  (which  the  train  climbs 
steadily),  pregnant  with  mineral  wealth  and  carved  by  the  erod- 
ing wind  and  rain  into  fantastic  shapes,  advertise  the  approach 
to  Parral.  Lines  of  burros  laden  with  country  produce  and 
with  fat  matrons  in  voluminous  red  petticoats,  wind  over  the 
hills  toward  the  metropolis.  Sarape-clad  bumpkins  run  along- 
side each  animal,  twist  its  tail,  prod  its  ribs  with  sticks  and 
shout  burro  in  an  effort  to  accelerate  its  speed. 

90  K.  Parral , see  below.  For  a continuation  of  the  journey, 
see  p.  67. 

16.  Parral. 

Arrival.  The  Railway  Station  ( estacion  del  Ferrocarril ) stands  on  a 
level  plateau  a mile  or  more  from  the  centre  of  the  town. 

Taxicabs.  Ford  taxis  meet  trains;  per  hour,  $2.50;  h hour  or  less,  $1.50. 
Higher  on  Sundays  and  dias  de  fiesta.  For  out-of-town  trips,  to  the  mines, 
etc.,  it  is  best  to  come  to  an  agreement  before  starting,  as  the  rates  mentioned 
apply  only  within  the  city  limits.  A few  Cabs  ( coches  de  sitio ) ply  for  hire, 
and  usually  they  are  cheaper  than  the  autos.  Large,  commodious  auto- 
mobiles can  be  hired  with  the  assistance  of  the  hotel  manager. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  The  Hotel  Iberia , with  rooms  from  $2  (pesos) 
up,  per  day,  meals  in  the  restaurant  a la  carta,  caters  to  Americans.  — There 
are  several  minor  hotels,  with  prices  ranging  from  $2  a day  and  up.D 

Banks.  Banco  National  de  Mexico  — Banco  de  Chihuahua. 

Hidalgo  del  Parral1  (6,200  ft.),  named  for  the  patriot 
Miguel  Hidalgo , chief  town  of  the  District  of  Hidalgo , with 
16,382  inhabitants,  stands  at  the  base  of  a tall,  cross-sur- 
mounted hill  ( Sierra  de  la  Cruz)  on  the  margin  of  the  semi- 
dry Parral  River  and  flanks  the  old  stage-road  between 
Jimenez  and  Rosario. 

Parral  is  one  of  the  few  Mexican  cities  which  retains  its 
primitive  character.  Somewhat  removed  from  the  beaten 
track  of  travel,  rarely  visited  except  bv  travellers  interested  in 
mines  and  mining,  it  pursues  the  quiet  tenor  of  its  ways  in 
pure  Mexican  fashion.  Improvements  and  progress  are  some- 
times tardy  in  reaching  it,  and  when  they  do  they  are  not 
always  accorded  an  enthusiastic  welcome. 

From  the  station  a long,  rocky  st  reet  innocent  of  sidewalks 
leads  into  the  town,  which  has  all  the  appearance  of  a mining 
centre.  Heavily  laden  ore-wagons  drawn  by  straining  mules 
are  familiar  figures  in  the  street  life. 


1 Parral  means  a large  earthen  jar;  also  a vine  with  many  shoots. 


Parochial  Church . 


PARRAL 


16.  Route.  65 


Parral  first  came  into  history  in  1547,  when  it  was  mentioned  (in 
connection  with  the  newly  discovered  Santa  Barbara  region)  as  unusually 
rich  in  metallic  ores.  Since  that  date  (which  coincides  with  the  dis- 
covery of  some  of  its  fabulously  rich  mines),  it  has  been  celebrated  for 
a steady  output  of  valuable  metals.  Town  records  bearing  the  date  of 
1612  refer  to  the  almost  uninterrupted  stream  of  wealth  which  went 
from  this  jejune  mining-camp  to  the  glittering  court  of  the  Spanish  kings. 
In  1600  it  contained  7,000  miners  and  a long  list  of  workable  mines.  At 
that  time  the  Indians  were  forced  to  work  in  the  mines,  and  many  of  the 
unfortunates,  beside  toiling  in  subterranean  darkness  for  a foreign  mon- 
arch they  had  never  seen,  were  obliged  to  pay  the  major  portion  of  what 
little  recompense  that  was  allowed  them  to  the  support  of  the  clergy  and 
the  church.  At  one  time  in  the  town’s  history  the  exactions  of  the  cleri- 
cals were  so  onerous  that  the  Indians  flooded  the  mines  and  thousands 
quit  the  place.  It  remained  for  a later  generation  to  re-open  the  old 
mines  and  work  them  satisfactorily  for  all.  Even  the  tailings  of  these 
first  mines,  worked  by  crude  Spanish  methods,  produce  handsome 
revenues  to  the  American  companies  exploiting  them.  The  Franciscan 
Mission  was  established  in  Parral  in  1714.  During  the  French  interven- 
tion (p.  ccxx)  the  town  was  occupied  by  the  troops  of  Napoleon  III,  and 
the  ruinous  fort  on  the  summit  of  El  Cerro  de  la  Cruz  is  a relic  of  that 
epoch.  Parral  was  the  last  Mexican  town  in  the  North  to  submit  to  the 
Diaz  administration  in  1876. 

The  Plaza  de  Hidalgo,  the  centre  of  the  town  and  around 
which  the  town  life  revolves,  is  embellished  by  a pretty 
kiosk,  some  unusually  tall  trees  and  a number  of  flowering 
shrubs.  A military  band  plays  here  on  certain  evenings  of  the 
week. 

The  Palacio  Municipal  facing  the  plaza  is  a low,  nonde- 
script edifice  with  an  attractive  patio  and  garden  — the  latter 
known  as  the  Jardin  Bravo , from  a revolutionary  hero.  A 
bizarre  clock-tower  surmounts  the  N.  corner  of  the  building. 

The  Parochial  Church  flanks  one  side  of  the  plaza  and 
dates  from  1710.  It  is  a time-stained  and  somewhat  tawdry 
structure,  interesting,  however,  for  four  handsomely  carved 
Churrigueresque  (p.  cxxxii)  altars  with  quaint  paintings  let 
into  the  gilded  wood ; most  of  these  pictures  represent  scenes 
from  Calvary.  The  interior,  entered  from  the  plaza  or  from 
the  street  which  flanks  it,  comprises  one  big  central  nave 
with  lateral  chapels  and  altars ; the  main  altar  ( altar  mayor ) 
occupies  the  entire  end  and  is  a fine  example  of  pure  Churri- 
gueresque. The  inharmonious  mass  of  tinsel  which  is  sup- 
posed to  decorate  the  interior  of  the  ch.  is  out  of  keeping 
with  this  fine  old  relic  of  Spanish  art.  Two  seated  figures 
of  Christ  crowned  with  thorns,  in  glass  cases  on  one  side  of 
the  nave,  command  attention.  The  lower  figure,  clad  in  a 
woman’s  white  cotton  under-garment  edged  with  cheap,  imi- 
tation lace  and  insertion  (an  inappropriate  and  ludicrous 
thing),  peers  out  from  its  dingy  prison  with  a wistfulness 
which  excites  compassion ; the  effect  is  wholly  saddening. 

The  Church  of  San  Juan  de  Diosf  in  the  Plaza  Porfirio 
Diazt  dates  from  1712  (renovated  in  1905  by  Pedro  Alvarado 
at  a cost  of  $30,000)  and  is  reached  by  a short  flight  of  stone 
steps  which  take  the  place  of  an  atrium.  An  ancient  campa - 


66  Route  16. 


PARRAL 


Palacio  de 


nario  with  a cracked  bell  surmounts  it.  The  interior  decora- 
tions are  modern  and  uninteresting.  Hard  by  is  the  (uninter- 
esting) Church  of  Nuestra  Sehora  de  Guadalupe. 

From  an  historical  standpoint  the  most  noteworthy  of  the 
Parral  churches  is  La  Iglesia  de  la  Yirgen  del  Rayo  (thun- 
derbolt), which  faces  a dusty  and  almost  deserted  square, 
across  the  river  from  the  main  town.  It  is  a quaint,  time- 
stained  structure,  with  a three-storied  tower  surmoimting 
the  left  corner;  minus  a dome,  with  curious  old  buttresses  sup- 
porting its  sides  and  with  a crumbling  facade  adorned  with 
graceful  Tuscan  columns.  The  old  gargoyles  which  conduct 
the  water  from  the  flat  roof  are  interesting.  The  interior  is 
paved  with  stone  slabs ; the  groined  arch  above  the  main  altar 
is  supported  by  Tuscan  pilasters.  One  entire  end  of  the  single 
nave  is  filled  by  a curious  old  altar,  of  many  orders,  the  Chur - 
rigueresque  predominating.  A number  of  figurines  stand  in 
railed  niches  and  produce  the  effect  of  a gigantic  cuckoo  clock 
with  the  figures  ready  to  come  forward  and  announce  the  time 
A haldachino  with  a figure  of  a Cristo  crucified  is  the  dom- 
inating feature  of  the  altar.  A small  table  takes  the  place  of 
a lectern,  and  a canopied  pulpit  with  two  confessionals  — one  j 
in  the  form  of  a subsellium  — are  the  chief  features  of  the  j 
interior. 

This  church  is  the  chosen  one  of  the  Indians,  who  refer  with 
pride  to  its  history  and  to  the  stoicism  of  its  founder.  Begun 
in  1690  it  was  completed  in  1710  at  the  expense  of  an  Indian  j 
miner  who  every  Saturday  brought  a gold  ingot  with  which  j 
to  pay  the  workmen.  No  one  knew  the  source  of  his  supply.  j 
When  the  ch.  was  finished  the  taciturn  Indio  was  haled  before 
the  Spanish  comandante  of  the  district  and  told  that  he  must  jl 
divulge  the  secret  of  the  hidden  mine;  he  refused  and  was  tor- 
tured to  death.  From  that  date  the  mine  was  “ lost and  it  still  , 
remains  undiscovered. 

A house  reverenced  by  all  Mexicans  is  No.  30  in  the  Calle  1 
de  M ercaderes  (near  the  Parral  Club).  A commemorative  tablet  | 
let  into  the  facade  advises  that  the  Licentiate  Benito  Juarez  I 
occupied  this  house  in  October , 1864,  on  his  glorious  journey  I 
to  Paso  del  Norte.  The  public  is  further  advised  that  the  j 
tablet  was  placed  in  position  by  order  of  the  City  Council, 
March  21,  1906. 

To  Mexicans,  the  chief  attraction  of  the  town  is  the  Palacio  j 
of  Pedro  Alvarado , in  a narrow  street  leading  from  the  Plaza 
Porjirio  Diaz , on  the  bank  of  the  Parral  River.  The  structure 
stands  almost  immediately  in  the  rear  of  the  Parral  Foreign  j 
Club,  and  will  prove  uninteresting  to  the  traveller.  The 
Palacio , used  as  a residence,  contains  a fine  onyx  stairway  and 
a sumptuous  and  costly  chapel.  The  facade  is  rather  pleasing, 
with  good  Corinthian  columns  and  a wealth  of  stone-carving. 
The  edifice  is  so  shut  in  by  adobe  houses  and  narrow  streets  i 


Pedro  Alvarado. 


PARRAL 


16.  Route.  67 


that  it  is  difficult  to  find  a point  whence  its  proportions  can  be 
properly  realized.  A fairly  good  survey  of  it  is  possible  from 
the  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  but  from  that  vantage-point 
the  rear  only  of  the  house  is  visible.  One  end  of  the  building 
is  sadly  defaced  by  an  iron  stove-pipe  thrust  out  through  the 
handsomely  barred  window.  This  feature  is  indicative  of 
the  taste  of  the  owner  and  is,  in  a measure,  the  keynote  to  the 
state  of  the  richly  decorated  interior.  The  rooms  are  museums 
of  costly  draperies,  finely  carved  furniture  and  many  knick- 
knacks  jumbled  and  strewn  around  on  priceless  carpets  with 
holes  burned  in  them  by  cigar  ashes,  and  defiled  by  the  fighting 
cockerels  which  wander  at  will  through  the  rooms.  A score 
or  more  pianos  are  features  of  the  house,  which  cost,  exclusive 
of  its  fitments,  about  200,000  pesos. 

The  multi-millionaire  owner  was  a peon  miner  who  made  a colossal 
fortune  by  striking  a bonanza  in  a now  celebrated  silver-mine  known  as 
La  Palmilla  (little  palm).  A kindly,  guileless,  public-spirited  man,  who 
sprang  into  prominence  because  of  his  alleged  offer  to  pay  the  National 
Debt,  he  devotes  much  of  his  great  income  to  beautifying  his  native 
town.  Many  of  the  modern  edifices  in  Parral  belong  to  him.  He  is  un- 
pretentious and  friendly  to  all. 

The  Parral  Mining  District  includes  the  municipalities 
of  Parral,  Minas  Nuevas  (see  below)  and  Santa  Barbara, 
and  is  known  to  miners  almost  everywhere  for  the  celebrated 
Veta  Colorado  (red  vein),  a great  mineral  vein  of  undefined 
width  and  depth  which  runs  for  nearly  ten  miles,  north  and 
south,  through  the  district.  La  Palmilla  Mine  on  Palmilla 
Hill , at  the  southern  end  of  the  Veta  Colorado,  is  one  of  the 
bonanzas  of  this  range.  Prominent  among  the  historical 
mines  located  in  the  ridge  are  the  Alf arena,  Quebradillas , 
Tecolotes,  Franquena , La  Union,  Hesperides,  San  Francisco 
del  Oro,  Los  Muertos,  Mina  del  Agua,  Veta  Grande,  Cerro 
Colorado,  Caballo,  San  Albino  Group,  Terrenatis,  Coyote  Group, 
El  Verde,  and  El  Toro.  The  Parral  ores  are  highly  silicious. 
For  further  information  under  this  head  consult  The  Mines 
of  Mexico,  by  J.  R.  Southworth,  and  The  Mines  of  Chihuahua , 
by  George  Griggs. 

Minas  Nuevas,  8 M.  distant  on  the  Parral  & Durango 
Railway  (5  trains  daily  in  \ hr.;  consult  the  Guia  Oficial),  in 
the  centre  of  a fine  country  adapted  to  grazing  and  agriculture 
but  celebrated  chiefly  for  its  productive  mines,  came  into  his- 
tory in  1645  when  Diego  Rodrigo  located  the  still  famous  mines 
of  San  Diego  de  Minas  Nuevas.  They  lie  along  the  Veta  Colo- 
rado and  are  being  worked  chiefly  by  Americans. 

Parral,  see  p.  64.  The  trend  of  the  railway  line  is  southward. 
101  K.  Zenzontle.  We  traverse  a hilly  and  highly  mineralized 
region  dotted  with  fine  valleys  under  cultivation. 

108  K.  Adrian.  Junction  of  the  Ramal  de  Santa  Barbara 
(2  trains  daily,  8 kilometros,  in  15  min. ; consult  Guia  Oficial ). 


68  Route  16. 


ROSARIO 


The  town  of  S.  Barbara  lies  in  a broad  valley  surrounded 
by  porphyritic  hills  almost  bursting  with  mineral  wealth. 
It  is  one  of  the  oldest  mining-camps  on  the  American  contin- 
ent, and  wns  one  of  the  first  places  where  gold  was  discovered 
(1547)  in  Northern  Mexico.  It  was  founded  by  the  Spanish 
miners  Juan  de  Velasquez , Miguel  Iturralde,  Venancio  de  Castro 
and  Bernardo  de  Santa  Ana  in  1547.  In  1580  it  became  the 
seat  of  government  for  the  territory  of  Nueva  Vizcaya  (new 
Biscay),  which  then  comprised  the  present  Mexican  states 
of  Chihuahua , Coahuila , and  Sonora , and  Texas,  Newr  Mexico, 
Arizona,  Colorado,  and  California  (in  the  U.  S.  A.).  For  half 
a century  before  the  Pilgrims  reached  Plymouth  Rock,  it  w’as 
the  centre  of  great  mining  activity.  It  is  noted  for  its  big 
smelters  and  reduction  works,  chief  among  which  are  those 
of  the  Guggenheim  Syndicate  and  the  Montezuma  Co.  For 
many  years  the  locality  w^as  celebrated  among  miners  for  its 
rich  pockets  of  gold  ore,  usually  found  very  near  the  surface 
of  the  ground. 

120  K.  Borjas.  126  K.  Peinado.  129  K.  Cuevas.  134  K. 
Stalforth.  147  K.  Paloma. 

155  K.  Rosario,  the  present  terminus  of  the  line,  is  a mining 
town  of  some  importance.  On  the  hills  beyond  are  fine  forests 
of  valuable  wood. 


III.  NORTH-WESTERN  MEXICO 


17.  From  Douglas  (Arizona)  to  Nacozari  (Mexico)  . 69 

18.  From  Naco  to  Cananea,  thence  to  Nogales  ...  69 

Cananea,  71.  — The  Copper  Mines,  72. 

19.  From  Nogales  via  Hermosillo  to  Guaymas  ...  . 74 

Nogales,  74.  — The  Magdalena  Mining  Region,  75. — 
Planchas  de  Plata  Mine,  75.  — Placer  Gold-Fields  of 
Santo  Domingo,  76. 

20.  Hermosillo 77 

Excursions  to  Las  Playitas,  La  Esmeralda,  and  La  Ver- 
bena, 77. 

21.  Guaymas  . 78 

Guaymas  Bay,  79.  — Fishing,  79.  — Sonora  State,  80. — 

The  Yaqui  Indians,  81. — History,  81. — Lost  Mines.  82. 

22.  Lower  California  84 

Magdalena  Bay,  85.  — La  Paz,  86.  — Pearls  and  Pearl 
Fishing,  87. 

23.  From  Guaymas  via  Navojoa,  Culiacan,  Mazatlan 


and  Tepic  to  Guadalajara  .........  89 

Culiacan  Rosales,  89. 

24.  State  of  Sinaloa  90 

Mazatlan,  90. 

25.  State  of  Naj^arit  ............  92 

Tepic  City  91.  — The  Huichol  Indians,  92, — The  Cora 
Indians,  95. 


17.  From  Douglas  ( Arizona ) to  Nacozari  (Mexico). 

A railway  (Ferrocarril  de  Nacozari)  runs  S.  from  Doug- 
las (Arizona)  to  77  M.  Nacozari , via  the  stations  (unimportant) 
of  Agua  Prieta  (on  the  Mex.  side),  22  K.  Cabullona  — 33  K. 
Cima  — 53  K.  Fronteras  — 68  K.  Cuchuta  — 73  K.  Yzabel  — 
80  K.  Turicachi  — 89  K.  Cos  — 100  K.  El  Tajo  — 105  K. 
San  Nicolas  — 112  K.  Purica  — 113  K.  Hidalgo  — 116  K. 
Churunibabi  and  124  K.  Nacozari , a celebrated  mining-camp 
to  the  S.-E.  of  the  famous  camp  of  Cananea , described  at 
p.  71.  For  a time-table  of  trains  consult  the  GuiaOficial.  For 
customs  formalities  see  p.  L 

18.  From  Naco  to  Cananea  (thence  to  Nogales). 

39  M.  Railway  (Southern  Pacific  Railroad  of  Mexico)  in  2 hrs., 

one  train  daily.  Fare  1st  cl.  $4.45  Mex.  The  El  Paso  (Texas)  and  South- 
western Rly.  passes  the  frontier  town  of  Naco  (243  M.  from  El  Paso) 
and  connects  there  with  the  So.  Pac.  of  Mexico  Rly.  Both  lines  enter 


70  Route  18. 


NACO  TO  CANANEA 


the  same  station  at  Naco  (U.  S.  A.).  Unless  passengers  hold  through  ) 
tickets  to  Cananea  the  train  conductor  collects  25  c.  for  the  short  trip  I 
between  Naco  (U.  S.  A.)  and  Naco,  Mexico.  Luggage  is  transferred  1 
from  one  train  to  the  other  without  charge.  Before  reaching  the  station  fl 
on  the  Mex.  side  of  the  frontier,  native  customs-officers  pass  through  the  I 
cars  and  examine  hand-luggage  in  the  seats.  A health  officer  also  asks  I 
passengers’  names  and  writes  them  in  a book.  Whoever  may  have  come  1 
direct  from  some  disease-infected  town  in  the  U.  S.  A.  is  likely  to  be  de- 
tained (one  week)  in  quarantine  — cuarentena.  Trunks  are  removed 
into  the  station  at  Naco,  Mex.,  and  examined  there.  Passengers  are  ad- 
vised to  personally  superintend  the  inspection  of  their  belongings.  Ample 
time  is  allowed,  there  are  no  fees,  and  the  examination  is  prompt,  cour- 
teous and  lenient.  The  rly.  fare  from  El  Paso  to  Cananea  is  (approx.) 
$13.59  U.  S.  money.  Pullman,  S3. 75. 

Leaving  Mexico  through  Naco,  the  American  customs-officers  board  the 
train  on  the  Mex.  side  and  examine  hand-luggage.  Trunks  are  inspected 
in  the  station  on  the  Mex.  side.  Passengers  bound  for  El  Paso  are  ad- 
vised to  secure  a folder  of  the  E.  P.  & S.-W.  Rly.  and  note  the  Pullman 
regulations.  On  certain  trains  Pullmans  may  be  taken  on  at  Douglas, 
Arizona,  and  east-bound  passengers  will  do  well  to  telegraph  (25  c.  for 
10  words)  to  D.  for  accommodations.  The  dining-car  service  (a  la  carta) 
on  these  trains  is  recommended. 

Naco  Hotel  (comp.  p.  xlvii)  in  Naco,  Mex.  ($2-$4  a day  Mex.  jj 
money,  Am.  PI.).  If  for  any  reason  the  traveller  finds  himself  obliged  to  j 
remain  in  Naco  several  days,  he  can  perhaps  spend  the  time  more  ad- 
vantageously by  going  to  Bisbee  (Ariz.),  1 hr.  by  train,  E.  from  Naco 
on  the  El.  P.  & S.-W.  Rly.  The  Copper  Queen  Hotel  (erected  by  the  rich 
Copper  Queen  Mining  Co.  for  the  convenience  and  comfort  of  its  officers) 
is  one  of  the  best  in  the  region.  Rooms  S1-S4  Am.  money.  Meals  o 
la  carta,  at  moderate  prices.  As  rooms  are  sometimes  difficult  to  secure, 
it  is  advisable  to  “ wire  ” (25  c.  for  10  words)  or  telephone  (50  c.  for  five 
minutes’  conversation).  The  town  of  Bisbee.  high  in  the  copper-bearing 
hills,  is  very  picturesque,,  and  is  well  worth  a visit.  The  hotel  is  within 
two  min.  walk  of  the  station. 

The  train  for  Cananea  traverses  a fine  rolling  district  in 
which  rich  prairie-land  and  foothills  alternate.  The  line  runs 
toward  the  south-west,  with  a constant  up  grade.  There  are 
but  few  stations  and  these  are  usually  isolated.  During  and 
after  the  rainy  season  (June-Sept.)  a host  of  beautiful  wild- 
flowers  deck  the  plains  hereabout,  and  the  herds  of  half-wild 
cattle  which  roam  them  find  excellent  pasturage  in  the  rich, 
yellow  buffalo-grass.  Blue-peaked  mountains  are  visible  on 
the  sky-line  and  double  strings  of  wild-fowl  are  fugitive  fea- 
tures in  the  landscape.  As  we  ascend  toward  Cananea , the 
view  backward  to  the  Arizona  mountains  is  beautiful.  The 
air  is  usually  very  clear,  and  mountains  200  or  more  miles 
away  appear  to  be  almost  within  walking  distance. 

In  the  fine  atmosphere  of  these  highlands  the  inhabitants 
(chiefly  Indians)  attain  to  remarkable  longevity.  Here  the 
elder  members  of  an  Indian  community  resemble  animated 
mummies,  and  are  usually  too  old  to  remember  their  age. 
At  the  rly.  stations  one  occasionally  sees  crones  as  ugly  as 
witches,  looking  as  if  they  never  had  been  young,  and  with  a 
total  lack  of  feminine  charms.  These  primitive  owners  of  the 
soil  cling  tenaciously  to  the  traditions  of  their  race,  regard 
the  whites  as  interlopers,  defy  the  microbe  theory  by  living 
in  vermin-infested  huts  and  usually  reach  twice  the  age  of 


CANANEA 


18.  Route.  71 


their  civilized  and  more  refined  conquerors.  They  are  living 
proofs  of  the  truism  that  Nature  is  strictly  material;  that 
physical  growth  takes  precedence  over  and  outlives  the  in- 
tellectual, and  that  the  alleged  civilization  of  the  whites  is 
accorded  a briefer  existence  on  earth  than  that  allowed  to  the 
unthinkably  ancient  dynasties  of  the  tinted  races. 

Del  Rio  Station,  at  Kilometro  48,  is  the  junction  of  the  line 
for  Nogales  and  points  on  the  Sonora  Rly.  (p.  74,  Rte.  19). 

The  main  line  winds  up  the  hill  to  39  M.  Cananea,  see  be- 
low. 

Cananea, 

Arrival.  The  railway  station  is  on  the  East  Mesa,  about  £ M.  from 
the  hotels.  The  Smelter  and  the  company  reservation  lie  on  the  sloping 
hillside  to  the  W.  — Midway  between,  in  the  hollow,  is  the  business 
centre  called  Ronquillo.  Cab-fare  to  any  of  the  hotels  or  the  Ron - 
quillo  Post-Office  (in  the  centre  of  the  town)  50  c.  Mex.,  per  person.  To 
the  town  of  Chivatera  (behind  the  hill  on  which  the  smelter  stands) 
SI  Mex.  $3  pfer  hr.  Prices  include  hand-luggage.  Trunk  checks  had  best 
be  given  to  the  hotel  manager,  who  will  see  that  luggage  is  delivered. 

The  Ferrocarril  Sud-Pacifico  de  Mexico  continues  in  a N.-W.  direction 
from  Cananea  to  (140  K.)  Nogales  (p.  74). 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  There  is  but  little  choice  between  the  Cananea 
hotels.  The  Hotel  Sonora  is  nearest  to  the  rly.  station,  on  the  East  Mesa 
— a plain  overlooking  the  valley.  Rooms  $2  to  $4  a day;  meals  SI,  The 
Hotel  Alexandria,  on  the  edge  of  the  Mesa  overlooking  Ronquillo,  with 
rooms  at  S3  and  meals  at  Si,  is  a bit  nearer  the  town.  Furnished  rooms 
are  to  be  had  in  a number  of  private  dwellings,  at  from  $2  to  $4  a day. 
Window  signs  announce  such  places. 

Restaurants.  Certain  of  those  operated  by  Chinese  are  popular  with 
foreigners.  That  of  the  Hotel  Plaza , about  £ M.  from  the  rly.  station  is 
well  spoken  of. 

Those  whose  business  calls  them  to  the  Smelter,  the  Mining-Camps  or 
to  the  lower  town  of  Ronquillo,  can  economize  time  by  either  engaging  a 
room  in  the  latter  place  or  on  the  Mesa,  and  dining  at  one  of  the  many 
short-order  restaurants  in  Ronquillo.  Distances  ar.e  considerable  and  the 
cab-hire  is  usually  50  c.  from  Ronquillo  to  the  Mesa.  The  restaurants  are 
usually  managed  by  Americans  or  Chinese.  Meals  generally  cost  $1.  Ask 
for  Ranch  eggs  and  milk,  as  these  are  nearly  always  fresh. 

American  money  passes  current  throughout  the  town;  $1  generally 
represents  $2  Mex.  When  prices  are  quoted  the  traveller  should  ask 
whether  Am.  or  Mex.  money  is  meant. 

Banks.  Compania  Bancaria  Mercantil  de  Cananea. 

Auto  Stage  Lines  run  to  various  outlying  towns;  for  fares,  times  of  de- 
parture, etc.,  consult  the  hotel  manager..  Autos  and  Pack  Outfits  for  country 
trips  usually  can  be  had. 

La  Cananea  (Canaan)  is  a modern  and  prosperous  mining- 
town  due  to  the  development  of  the  mines  (copper)  of  the 
Cananea  Consolidated  Copper  Company.  The  population. 
20,000  (about  \ of  which  are  Americans),  is  of  a floating  char- 
acter. The  miners  (a  very  cosmopolitan  lot)  are  drawn  from 
the  mining-centres  of  Colorado,  Arizona,  New  Mexico,  and 
Mexico.  Many  of  the  houses  are  of  a primitive  kind,  narrowly 
escaping  being  huts.  The  town  is  divided  into  three  districts: 

The  East  Mesa  (table-land),  where  the  chief  hotels,  the  rly. 
station  and  many  residences  are;  Ronquillo  (husky),  in  the 
hollow,  with  its  Main  Street,  Post-Office , Company  Reservation , 
etc. ; and,  to  the  left  of  this,  a tali  hill,  The  South  Mesa , known 


72  Route  18. 


CANANEA 


Mines. 


as  Old  Cancinea,  covered  with  small,  box-like  shanties,  the 
homes  of  some  of  the  men  who  toil  in  the  mines  and  smelters. 

The  Company  Reservation , beyond  the  post-office  on  the 
slope  of  the  hillside,  contains  some  first-class  houses;  notable 
among  them  the  Cananea  Club  (card  of  invitation  from  some 
member) ; the  company’s  store,  bank,  assay-office,  etc.  No 
dwelling  or  commercial  establishment  can  be  erected  within 
this  reservation  without  the  consent  of  the  company.  The 
Gigantic  Smelter  and  some  of  the  mines  lie  against,  and  in, 
the  hill  beyond  the  Reservation,  while  over  the  hill,  on  other 
hills  and  in  the  intervening  valleys,  are  the  mining-camps  of 
Chivatera  (shepherdess) ; Puertecitos  (little  ports) ; and  camps 
containing  almost  as  many  inhabitants  as  Cananea.  Excellent 
roads,  cut  out  of  the  mt.  side,  connect  the  several  camps. 

For  $2  a saddle-horse  can  be  hired  (several  stables  in  Can- 
anea) and  a very  picturesque  trip  (recommended  where  time 
will  permit)  made  to  the  different  camps  and  mines  beyond 
the  hill.  Beside  offering  splendid  views  of  the  surrounding 
country  the  ride  enables  one  to  get  an  adequate  idea  of  the 
magnitude  of  this  mining-centre  — one  of  the  greatest  copper- 
producing  camps  in  the  world.  The  usual  charge  for  a horse 
is  SI  an  hour.  Two  hrs.  are  sufficient  to  inspect  the  district. 
The  roads  are  easily  followed  and  a guide  is  unnecessary. 
Many  strong  horses,  of  the  military  type,  are  used  in  and 
about  the  camps. 

The  Mines  are  situated  on  the  northern  slope  of  the  Cananea 
Range  — a group  of  squat  mountains  six  to  ten  miles  wide 
and  about  25  miles  long,  running  in  a general  N.-W.  and  S.-E. 
direction.  The  richest  section  lies  along  the  southern  half  of 
the  range  and  comprises  a vast  mineral  zone  reaching  to 
Puertecitos  Pass  — a deep  gap  that  divides  the  mountains 
into  two  distinct  portions.  At  some  period  in  the  world’s 
history,  this  range  was  intensely  volcanic  and  there  existed 
here  a cyclopean  workshop  where  unthinkable  powers  fused 
and  manufactured  the  rich  and  varied  ores  for  which  the 
district  is  celebrated.  The  ores  of  the  different  mines  vary  in 
character  and  value.  That  from  the  group  of  mines  contiguous 
to  the  Cananea  Smelter  is  silicious  and  occurs  in  a quartzite 
gangue  or  an  altered  quartz  porphyry.  The  ore  bodies  of  this 
district  consist  of  great  masses  of  chalcopyrite  and  its  second- 
ary products;  glance,  malachite  (small  souvenirs  of  which 
are  sold  in  the  curio  stores,  comp.  p.  lxix),  cuprite,  native 
copper,  etc.  They  are  probably  the  largest  contact  deposits 
ever  discovered.  The  Cananea  Consolidated  Copper  Company 
(owners  and  managers  of  many  of  the  other  companies)  own 
more  than  5,000  pcrtenencias  (claims)  in  the  vicinity  of  Can- 
anea. The  extent  of  their  holdings  will  be  better  understood 
when  one  recalls  that  a single  perteneneia,  as  defined  by  the 


Mines. 


CANANEA 


18.  Route  73 


Mexico  Mining  Law , constitutes  “a  solid  block  of  unlimited 
depth,  defined  above  ground  by  that  part  of  the  surface  which, 
in  horizontal  projection,  gives  a square  with  sides  100  meters 
(330  feet)  long  and  bounded  underground  by  the  four  vertical 
planes  corresponding  to  the  same.” 

In  the  Cananea  district  (which  is  enormously  rich  in  min- 
erals) the  vein  outcrops  are  the  prominent  features  of  the  land- 
scape in  the  vicinity  of  the  mines  now  under  exploitation. 
The  almost  unlimited  masses  of  iron  ores  form  high  ridges  of 
rough  brown  rock  traceable  for  long  distances  along  the  slopes. 
The  drifts  and  tunnels  driven  in  the  veins  disclose  large  masses 
of  native  copper,  carbonates  and  oxide  ores.  As  the  gossan  cap 
(a  Cornish  term  meaning  iron  capping  of  a vein)  is  penetrated, 
the  ore  beneath  is  found  to  consist  of  pyrite  and  chalcopyrite 
mixed  with  earthy  and  soft  black  copper  glance.  The  main 
crest  and  summits  of  the  range  consist  of  quartzites,  hornfels, 
marble,  adinoles,  etc.  The  bedded  andesitic  tuffs  and  breccias, 
forming  the  lower  foothills  and  mesas  to  the  east  of  the  range, 
are  the  ejected  rocks  and  andesitic  ash  of  the  old  volcano, 
at  one  time  characterized  by  great  activity. 

Some  of  the  mines  show  outcroppings  of  garnetiferous  rock, 
carrying  carbonates,  oxide  and  the  native  metal.  This  is 
derived  from  veins  of  chalcopyrite  ore,  as  is  shown  by  the 
working  tunnel  of  the  Cananea  mine,  where  a vein  30  feet  wide 
consists  of  an  upward  stratum  of  altered  impure  limestone 
heavily  charged  with  chalcopyrite  and  zinc-blende.  This 
interesting  bed  occurs  beneath  a layer  of  white  marble. 

The  ore  bodies  in  mines  quite  contiguous  differ  curiously 
from  each  other.  That  of  the  Capote  mine  (passed  on  the  road 
leading  up  to  the  hill-top)  is  unusually  large  and  consists 
of  a mass  of  quartzite  and  crushed  porphyry  altered  by  some 
stupendous  force  of  Nature  to  a white  clayey  mineral  and 
carrying  scarf-like  masses,  strings  and  bunches  of  soft  black 
copper  glance,  with  a residue  of  pyrite. 

The  principal  mines  are  the  Cananea,  Cobre  Grande  (Big 
Copper),  Veta  Grande  (Big  Vein),  Oversight,  Capote  (Cape) 
Elisa,  Henrieta , Puertecitos  (see  p.  72)  and  the  Elenita 
(Little  Ellen) . Most  of  these  are  connected  by  a surface  rail- 
way 15  kilom.  long.  The  mineral  output  of  the  mines  is 
estimated  at  more  than  3,000  tons  daily.  Several  thousand 
men  are  employed,  working  in  8-hour  shifts;  three  shifts 
during  the  24  hours.  The  monthly  pay-roll  is  estimated  at 
half  a million  dollars.  The  smelter  runs  day  and  night.  It 
is  312  feet  long,  99  feet  wide,  with  a boiler-house  245  feet 
long.  Its  daily  output  of  smelted  copper  is  about  90  tons. 
Six  hundred  men  are  employed  in  this  building  and  two 
hundred  tons  of  coal  are  consumed  daily.  The  tall  chimney, 
from  which  a dense  volume  of  smoke  pours  constantly,  is 
200  feet  high. 


74  Route  19.  NOGALES  TO  GUAYMAS 


Nogales. 


19.  From  Nogales  via  Hermosillo  to  Guaymas. 

FERROCARRIL  SUD  PACIFICO  DE  MEXICO. 

427  K.  Frequent  trains  (consult  the  rly.  folder)  in  about  10  hrs.  Fare, 
including  Pullman,  S13.20  U.  S.  monej*.  The  rly.  is  a prolongation  of  the 
Southern  Pacific  System  of  the  U.  S.  A. ; the  eventual  terminal  is  at  Guadala- 
jara (p.  161),  where  connection  will  be  made  with  the  National  Rlvs.  of 
Mexico  for  all  parts  of  the  Repub.  — Trains  are  run  on  Sonora  time,  which 
is  23  min.  slower  than  the  Mt.  time  used  at  Nogales,  Ariz.  Refreshment 
Rooms  at  appropriate  stations.  Delicious  oranges  can  always  be  had  at 
Nogales,  Carbo,  and  Hermosillo  (and  at  certain  of  the  other  stations),  along 
with  fine  peaches,  pomegranates  and  other  fruits  in  season. 

Nogales  (8S  M.  — 5 hrs.  train  ride  S.-W.  of  Benson,  Ariz.,  and  75  M.  — 
3 hrs.  ride  S.  of  Tucson)  is  the  S.  terminus  of  both  of  these  branches  of  the 
S.  P.  Rly.,  and  the  N.  terminus  of  the  Sud  Pacifico  de  Mexico;  and  is  the  point 
of  departure  for  towns  and  cities  on  the  W.  Coast  of  Mexico  and  for  those 
of  the  Peninsula  of  Lower  California,  described  at  p.  84.  Pullman  cars  run 
through  from  Los  Angeles  to  Mazatl&n.  The  Rly.  Stations  on  the  Mex. 
and  Amer.  sides  at  Nogales  are  within  a few  yards  of  each  other;  no  charge 
for  transfer  of  luggage.  Several  hotels  lie  within  3 min.  walk  of  the  station 
— the  Evans,  Bowman,  Montezuma,  and  Brickwood,  on  the  Amer.  side;  and 
the  Central  and  Amadie  on  the  Mex.  side.  Rooms  from  SI. 50  up.  Meals 
at  any  of  the  several  good  restaurants  on  either  side  of  the  International 
Line.  Tourists  will  perhaps  find  it  to  their  advantage  to  buy  travellers* 
requisites  before  crossing  the  line,  as  the  shops  on  the  West  Coast  are  not 
always  supplied  with  just  the  articles  most  Americans  require.  These,  with 
Guidebooks,  Spanish  Grammars,  Methods,  Interpreters,  newspapers, 
magazines,  etc.,  are  on  sale  at  the  Sonora  News  Co  Store,  on  Morley  Ave. 
Cigars  and  cigarettes  can  be  bought  to  better  advantage  on  the  Mex.  side. 

Autos  meet  trains,  but  the  distances  in  the  city  are  so  short  that  the3*  are 
not  necessary.  Autos  for  country  trips  can  be  arranged  for  with  the  help  of 
the  hotel  manager.  The  traveller  may  like  to  remember  that  over  the  line, 
in  Mexico,  Mexican  monev  a:id  prices  rule. 

American  money  can  be  exchanged  for  Mexican  at  any  of  the  several 
banks,  or  at  the  Sonora  News  Co.  store  on  Morley  Avenue. 

Nogales  (walnut  trees),  on  the  southernmost  edge  of  Ari- 
zona, 3,863  ft.  above  sea  level,  with  a pop.  of  9,383  (for  the 
twin  cities  of  Nog.  Ariz.  and  Nog.  Mex.)  is  known  as  the  Key 
City,  from  its  strategic  position  astride  the  International  Line 
at  the  gateway  to  the  immensely  rich  West  Coast  Region.  It 
is  a hustling,  bi-lingual,  non-partisan,  friendly  place,  with  a 
drv,  healthful  climate,  warm  days  and  cool  nights,  and  an 
undoubted  future.  The  city  merchants  do  an  ever-increasing 
trade  with  the  people  on  the  Mex.  side  of  the  line;  buyers  often 
travelling  a thousand  miles  from  the  south  to  do  their  trading 
on  the  American  side.  Spanish  is  spoken  in  most  of  the  stores, 
and  were  it  not  for  the  difference  in  the  style  of  architecture, 
one  town  could  easily  be  mistaken  for  the  other.  Simple  pass- 
port restrictions  to  conform  to  local  conditions  are  enforced, 
but  the  alert  officials  on  both  sides  of  the  border  do  their  duty 
without  hampering  the  interchange  of  courtesies  and  com- 
modities. 

The  Nogales  Climate  is  almost  perfect,  with  warm,  sunny 
days  and  cool,  sleepful  nights  that  are  a delight.  The  altitude 
offsets,  in  a way,  the  latitude,  so  that  a temperature  in  Nogales 
of  100  degrees  is  about  the  equivalent  of  80  in  New  England. 


MAGDALENA  DISTRICT  19.  Route.  75 


The  dry  quality  of  the  air  makes  it  a sort  of  open  air  sanitarium 
favorable  to  people  with  pulmonary  troubles. 

The  city  has  many  fine  homes  and  substantial  business 
houses.  It  is  a fire-proof  place  in  the  sense  that  the  erection 
of  frame  structures  is  forbidden.  The  country  roundabout  is 
adapted  for  cattle  raising  and  farming.  With  irrigation  the 
land  produces  abundantly;  the  almost  constant  sunshine 
bringing  crops  to  maturity  while  howling  blizzards  sweep 
across  the  East  and  North.  The  mineral  wealth  of  the  region 
is  extensive  and  is  practically  undeveloped. 

The  local  Chamber  of  Commerce  or  any  of  the  several  banks 
will  forward  pamphlets  descriptive  of  Nogales  and  its  pos- 
sibilities. 

The  railway  penetrates  the  Mex.  State  of  Sonora , climbs  a 
stiffish  grade  and  trends  almost  due  S.  across  a country  differ- 
ing but  little  from  southern  Arizona.  We  pass  the  unimportant 
stations  of  5 K.  Lomas  and  11  K.  Encina,  where  we  cross  the 
divide  (at  an  elevation  of  4,288  ft.)  between  the  Gila  River  and 
the  Gulf  of  California.  20  K.  Agua  Zarca  (3,816  ft.). 

41  K.  Casita , near  the  Casita  Canon , a rocky  gorge  between 
the  Pineta , Cibuta  and  Guacomea  Mts.  Attractive  views  of  a 
landscape  with  many  sycamore  trees. 

48  K.  Quijano.  The  wagon  trail  which  leads  from  this 
point  runs  to  (12  M.)  the  camp  of  the  Columbia  Consolidated 
Mines  Co.  (formerly  Hay’s  Camp),  where  Amer.  capital  is 
developing  extensive  mines  and  lumber  deposits.  Horses 
•can  be  obtained  with  the  help  of  the  station  agent.  — 55  K. 
Cumeral. 

68  K.  Imuris,  celebrated  locally  for  a mineral  spring  to 
which  the  Indians  attribute  curative  properties.  N.-E.  of  the 
station  is  the  Cocospera  region  with  rich  mines  and  vast,  pro- 
ductive haciendas.  76  K.  Pierson.  We  traverse  the  broad 
Valley  of  the  Magdalena  (river)  noted  for  its  delicious  peaches. 
62  K.  San  Ignacio. 

87  K.  Magdalena  (2,460  ft.),  with  3,000  inhab.,  in  the  centre 
of  a rich  mining  and  agricultural  region.  The  main  section  of 
the  town  lies  about  1 M.  to  the  left.  Hotels  Sonora  and  Aleman, 
$1.50  European  Plan.  Auto  from  the  station  25  c.;  trunks 
50  c.  During  the  first  week  of  Oct.  a fiesta  is  held  at  Magdalena 
in  honor  of  San  Francisco  Xavier,  tutelar  santo  of  the  town. 
Many  Indians  and  Mexicans  make  long  pilgrimages  to  be 
present  at  this  time;  some  come  on  foot,  some  in  wagons  and 
on  burros,  some  by  auto  and  many  by  the  accommodation 
trains  which  the  Rlv.  Co.  runs  for  this  occasion.  The  region 
roundabout  is  excellent  for  fruit  growing,  and  figs,  pome- 
granates, peaches,  and  other  delicious  fruits  are  a specialty. 

That  part  of  Sonora  known  to  the  mining  world  as  the  Magdalena 
District  begins  about  20  M.  south  of  Nogales  and  extends  far  to  the 
south  of  the  town  whence  it  derives  its  lame.  It  is  one  of  the  richest 
mining  regions  of  the  Mex.  Republic.  1/  any  of  the  more  valuable  prop- 


76  Route  19.  NOGALES  TO  GUAYMAS 


Mines. 


erties,  notably  the  Planchas  de  Plata  (silver  plates) , the  Cocospera,  the 
Higuera  (fig-tree)  and  the  Cerro  Prieto  (black-hill)  were  exploited  during 
the  early  Spanish  occupation  and  immense  treasure  taken  from  them. 
According  to  the  Jesuit  historians  the  Planchas  de  Plata  mine  was 
discovered  in  1739  by  a Yaqui  Indian  who  revealed  its  location  to  a Span- 
ish trader.  Its  almost  fabulous  richness  soon  attracted  the  attention  not 
only  of  Spain  but  of  all  Europe  as  well.  Jesuit  missionaries  were  the  first 
to  work  the  mine.  Says  one  of  the  old  chroniclers:  “At  a depth  of  a few 
yards,  in  the  bed  of  a canon  cutting  down  the  side  of  the  mountain,  we 
found  masses  of  pure  silver,  globular  in  form,  weighing  from  cne  to  two 
arrobas  — 25  to  50  lbs.  Several  pieces  weighing  20  arrobas  (500  lbs.)  were 
taken  out,  and  one  piece,  found  by  a man  from  Guadalajara , weighed 
21  arrobas  (525  lbs.).  As  no  animal  could  carry  so  great  a weight  as  a 
pack,  an  ingenious  contrivance  was  employed  for  its  transportation. 
A litter  was  swung  between  two  pack-mules,  the  mass  of  metal  was  raised 
into  the  branches  of  a tree,  the  animals  led  underneath  and  the  load 
lowered  to  the  place  designed  for  it.” 

Six  miles  north  of  the  Planchas  de  Plata  mine  are  the  Promontorio 
Mines t owned  also  by  Americans. 

Some  50  M.  east  of  Magdalena  station,  beyond  the  junction  of  the 
Santo  Domingo  and  Dolores  rivers,  is  the  canon  of  the  Santo  Domingo 
and  the  great  placer  gold-fields  of  the  same  name.  A few  miles  further 
up-stream  is  an  extensive  auriferous  deposit  known  as  La  Bresca  (the 
honeycomb),  extraordinarily  rich  in  gold,  which  metal  is  found  for  nearly 
15  M.  along  the  river’s  channel.  Much  of  the  gold  that  went  in  the  treas- 
ure-laden galleons  that  sailed  from  Acapulco  to  Spain  during  the  Spanish 
occupation  of  Mexico,  came,  it  is  said,  from  this  region.  Before  the  ad- 
vent of  the  Conquist adores,  the  Aztecs  are  said  to  have  worked  the  mines 
and  to  have  conveyed  to  Montezuma's  treasury  at  Anahuac  the  great 
amount  of  gold  which  tempted  Cortes  to  so  much  inhumanity. 

The  Cerro  Prieto  mines  are  located  near  the  confluence  of  the  Santo 
Domingo  and  the  Dolores  rivers.  The  Black  Mt.  in  which  they  lie  is  a 
lofty  ridge  of  dark  limestone  more  than  a mile  in  length.  Through  this 
ridge  runs  a great  porphyry  dyke,  rich  in  gold  ore. 

South  of  Magdalena  the  line  traverses  a region  thickly 
sprinkled  with  the  many  species  of  cacti  (comp.  p.  lxxxi)  for 
which  Sonora  is  celebrated ; during  and  after  the  rainy  season, 
when  all  the  plants  are  in  bloom,  the  scene  is  one  of  singular 
beauty.  Those  who  love  the  “painted  desert ” and  its  silent 
but  none  the  less  impressive  majesty  would  perhaps  never 
tire  of  this  broad  sweep  of  semi-wild  country  with  its  splendid 
Pitahayas,  its  Wolf’s  Candles,  nopal,  agave  and  many  other 
species  of  flowering,  flaming,  prickly,  aggressive  and  ever  in- 
teresting cacti.  Long  eared  jack-rabbits,  pudgy  prairie-dogs, 
snooping  coyotes,  skirling  hawks  and  a repulsive  congress  of 
horned  toads,  lizards,  snakes  and  owls  people  the  sunlit  land. 
Serrated  hills  cut  the  sky-line  and  delimn  the  desert  with  tur- 
quois  bands.  Many  of  the  tall  organ  cacti  are  perforated  by 
woodpecker-holes.  94  K.  Lorenzo.  106  K.  Santa  Ana.  129  K. 
Llano.  147  I\. Norm.  154K .Puerto.  167  K. Querobabi  (2,160ft., 
point  of  departure  for  the  Tuape  district).  1S9  K.  Poza  (ship- 
ping centre  for  the  Opedepe  region). 

209  K.  Carbo  (1,523  ft.).  Rly.  restaurant  (good  meal,  75  c. 
U.  S.  money).  Much  of  the  ore  from  the  San  Miguel , the 
Sultana , and  other  mines  is  brought  here  for  shipment. 

243  K.  Pesqueira,  a shipping  point  for  various  contiguous 
mines  and  for  broad  haciendas  which  flank  the  San  Miguel 
River  in  its  course  to  the  E. 


HERMOSILLO  20.  Route.  77 

272  K.  Union.  We  leave  the  main  line  and  proceed  (10  K.) 
to  the  r.  to  282  K.  Hermosillo,  see  below. 

20,  Hermosillo. 

Arrival.  The  main  part  of  the  town  and  the  hotels  lie  about  1 M.  to  the 
E.  of  the  station.  Fare  by  cab  25  c.  (50  c.  at  night) ; by  auto  50  c.;  trunks 
25  c.  and  50  c.,  according  to  size;  hand  luggage  free.  Cabs  within  the  town 
SI  per  hr.;  autos  S3. 50  and  $4.  All  in  American  money,  likewise  the  prices 
quoted  below. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  Arcadia,  facing  the  Calle  Serdan;  Hotel  Cohen , 
on  the  Calle  Hidalgo;  SI. 50  to  $2.50  a day,  European  Plan. 

Banks.  Banco  Nacional  de  Mexico.  Agenda  Sonora  Bank  & Trust  Co.; 
Banco  Miner ia  y Agricola  de  Sonora. 

Trains  usually  stop  10-20  min.  Meals  in  the  restaurant,  75  cents. 

Hermosillo  (little  beauty),  an  adequately  named  city 
(capital  of  the  State  of  Sonora)  90  M.  N.  of  Guaymas,  on  a 
broad  plain  (693  ft.  above  the  sea)  near  the  Sonora  River 
below  its  junction  with  the  Rio  San  Miguel,  occupies  a pictur- 
esque situation  almost  athwart  the  entrance  to  a wild  canon 
through  which  the  river  flows  (between  the  Cerro  de  las  Cam- 
panas,  and  the  Cerro  de  los  Cerros).  At  the  upper  limit  of  the 
city  (pop.  25,000)  stands  a peak  of  whitish  gray  marble  (sim- 
ilar to  that  found  in  many  parts  of  the  state),  which,  when 
struck,  gives  forth  a clear,  bell-like  sound.  From  this  cir- 
cumstance Sonora  (sonorous)  derives  its  name. 

Hermosillo  is  locally  celebrated  for  its  superb  winter  climate, 
and  its  fine  fruits — oranges  predominating.  The  short  rainy 
season  begins  in  July  and  ends  in  Sept.  There  is  some  pre- 
cipitation in  Dec.  and  Jan.  The  orange  groves  in  the  plazas 
and  parks  (of  which  there  are  four),  and  the  groves  of  dates, 
palms,  and  orchards  of  lemons,  limes  and  tangerines,  impart  a 
semi-tropical  aspect  very  pleasing  to  northern  eyes.  Orange 
and  vegetable  growing  are  the  chief  local  industries;  both  are 
almost  entirely  in  the  hands  of  industrious  Chinese.  Several 
hundred  carloads  of  oranges  are  shipped  each  year  to  Canadian 
points.  Figs,  pomegranates,  melons,  sugar-cane,  and  many 
beautiful  roses  grow  in  the  environs. 

The  Cathedral,  the  official  seat  of  the  Bishop  of  Sonora, 
faces  the  Plaza  de  Armas,  is  of  modern  construction,  and  con- 
tains but  little  to  interest  the  tourist.  The  Palacio  del  Estado 
(cost  $300,000)  overlooks  the  same  plaza,  and  is  the  state 
capitol.  The  Palacio  Federal,  on  the  Calle  Serdan,  houses  the 
Post- Office,  Gov’t  Telegraph- Office,  and  the  federal  admin- 
istrative offices.  — The  Parque  Madero,  comprising  several 
acres,  with  many  lovely  roses  and  sub-tropical  trees  and 
shrubs,  is  the  favorite  promenade.  At  the  upper  end  of  the 
Park  is  the  State  School  (cost  $300,000). 

Our  train  makes  a circle  near  the  depot,  returns  to  Union , 
then  proceeds  southward  over  the  main  line,  passing  two 
unimportant  stations  near  by. 

324  K.  Torres  (junction  of  the  Torres  & Prietas  Rly.)  is  the 


78  Route  21. 


GUAYMAS 


point  of  departure  for  La  Colorada  and  the  famous  La  Colo- 
rado, Creston  Colorada , and  the  Prietos  Mines. 

379  K.  Ortiz , one-time  point  of  departure  for  the  San 
Marcial  coal  fields,  now  the  rly.  station  for  the  Military  Head- 
quarters of  the  State  (at  La  Misa),  15  M.  to  the  E.  Ortiz  is 
also  the  starting  place  for  the  milling  camps  of  Suaqui  Grande , 
Cumuripa , La  Dura,  La  Bufa,  and  other  points  beyond  the 
central  reaches  of  the  Yaqui  River. 

418  K.  Empalme.  The  shops  and  general  offices  of  the 
operating  department  of  the  S.  P.  Ply.  of  Mexico  are  located 
here.  The  town  is  modern  and  American  in  every  respect,  and 
is  owned  entirely  by  the  Rly.  Co.  Several  hundred  Americans 
make  their  homes  here,  and  an  up-to-date  American  school  is 
generously  maintained  by  the  Rly.  Co.  for  the  education  of 
American  children.  — From  Empalme  the  line  trends  toward 
the  right,  crosses  an  arm  of  Guaymas  Bay,  and  proceeds  (10  K.) 
to  428  K.  Guaymas  (see  below).  For  a description  of  thi 
West  Coast  Route,  Guaymas  via  Navojoa,  Culiacan,  Mazatlan 
and  Tepic  to  Guadalajara,  see  Rte.  23  (p.  89). 

21.  Guaymas. 

Arrival.  The  business  section  of  the  port  is  about  10  min.  walk  from  the 
depot,  and  is  connected  therewith  by  tram-cars.  Cabs  and  autos  meet  all 
trains;  fare  25  c.  U.  S.  gold.  Hand  luggage  free;  trunks  25-50  c.  — Autos 
in  the  city  SI  per  hr.  Launch  hire  on  the  Bay,  S2  the  hr.  All  prices  advance 
on  Sundays  and  di'is  de  fiesta.  If  there  are  several  trunks,  hand  checks  to 
the  hotel  manager,  who  will  perhaps  get  them  brought  up  at  a lower  price. 

Hotels  (comp,  xlvii).  Hotel  Albin,  between  the  station  and  the  city; 
Hotel  Almada,  near  the  town.  Hates  in  each,  from  $1.50  and  up  (rooms 
only);  meals  75  c.  All  in  Am.  gold. 

Banks.  The  Banco  Nacional  de  Mexico  is  the  correspondent  of  the  Mexico 
City  Banking  Corporation. 

Bookstores.  Amer.  newspapers,  guides,  magazines,  American  specialties, 
etc.,  the  Sonora  News  Co. 

Arrival  by  Sea.  Steamers  anchor  in  the  harbor,  quite  near  to  the  wharf. 
Boats  to  and  from  ships  25  c.  per  pers.  Trunks  25  c.  Am.  gold.  Where  there 
are  a number  of  persons  and  several  trunks  a special  rate  can  be  arranged  for 
with  the  boatman. 

Steamship  Agents.  Compania  Naviera  de  los  Estados  de  Mexico  (The 
Mexican  States  Line),  J.  A.  McPherson  & Co.,  agents.  — Compania 
Naviera  Mexicana  (Mexican  Navigation  Co.),  Sres.  W.  Iberri  e Hijos, 
Sues.  — The  fine  big,  fast,  popular  and  comfortable  ships  of  both  of  these 
well-known  companies  make  Guaymas  a frequent  port  of  call  and  carry 
travellers  to  the  chief  ports  of  California  (connections  at  San  Francisco 
with  steamers  for  Northern  Pacific  Ports  and  the  Orient)  at  the  north,  and  j 
Mexican  Ports  at  the  south  (connections  at  Salina  Cruz  with  steamers  for 
Central  and  South  America,  the  Panama  Canal  and  European  and  Atlantic 
Ports1.  Itineraries,  etc.,  on  application  to  any  of  the  company  agents. 

Guaymas,  on  the  bay  ( bahia ) of  the  same  name,  with  15,000 
inhab.,  occupies  a mountainous  peninsula  which  terminates 
in  the  Cabo  de  Haro,  5 M.  from  the  central  plaza.  The  time- 
stained  houses  are  Spanish-Moorish,  the  streets  are  narrow  and 
tortuous,  and  the  plaza,  with  its  fine  palms  and  flowers,  is  at- 
tractive. Many  of  the  stores  are  managed  by  Chinese,  of  which 
there  are  some  2,000  in  the  port.  The  summer  climate  is  some- 
what trying  to  the  uninitiated.  The  rainy  season  (July-Sept.) 


Fishing . 


GUAYMAS 


21.  Route.  79 


produces  a muggy  heat  which  is  a bit  uncomfortable.  Winter 
is  the  best  time  to  visit  the  port;  then  the  nights  are  cool  and 
the  minimum  temperature  is  about  67°  Fahr.  The  barren 
hills  behind  the  town  act  as  reflectors  of  the  heat,  which  the 
inhabitants  of  the  place  exclude  from  their  houses  by  means 
of  thick  walls.  The  Parochial  Church  of  San  Fernando  (facing 
the  plaza ) is  uninteresting. 

The  Bay  is  land-locked,  dotted  with  islands  and  filled  with 
fish  (see  below).  The  inner  harbor  (called  El  Pozo)  affords 
anchorage  for  ships  drawing  up  to  14  ft.  Bald  hills  encircle  it 
on  three  sides.  Ships  make  the  inner  harbor  by  threading  the 
channel  which  separates  the  islands  of  Almagre  Grande  and 
La  Ardilla.  Across  the  bay  from  the  muelle  are  the  remains  of 
a fortress  erected  by  the  French  during  their  occupation  of  the 
pert.  The  sunrise  and  sunset  effects  from  the  hills  about 
the  port  are  unusually  gorgeous.  Bathing  in  the  bay  is  pop- 
ular, and  the  occasional  sharks  seen  therein  appear  to  have 
no  taste  for  the  bathers.  Consult  the  hotel  manager  regard- 
ing the  best  bathing-places. 

Many  writers  have  tried  to  describe  the  beautiful  Bay  of  Guaymas. 
Says  one  ( John  C . Van  Dyke ) : 

“The  Bay  of  Guaymas  is  typical  of  all  the  gulf  bays,  and  is  a fair  illus- 
tration of  the  coast  scenery.  It  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  harbors  in  the 
world,  and  the  fact  that  there  are  never  more  than  a half-dozen  vessels  at 
a time  lying  in  it  does  not  hurt  its  beauty.  . . . Bare  mountains,  1,500 
ft.  high,  surround  it  and  look  down  upon  it,  and  in  the  morning,  when  the 
harbor  water  is  smooth,  their  reflections  are  as  clear-cut  as  though  cast 
in  a mirror.  The  local  color  of  the  water  is  green,  but  the  intense  blue  of 
the  sky  changes  it  by  reflection  to  a deep  cobalt,  and  the  mountains  of 
rock  are  brown,  terra-cotta,  rose-color,  changed  again  by  sunset  light 
into  mounds  and  spires  and  pinnacles  of  gold,  crimson,  lilac  and  purple. 
Day  after  day  there  is  the  blue  glow  of  the  clear  sky,  but  at  dawn,  when 
there  is  a haze  or  a few  fleecy  clouds,  the  eastern  sky  flames  with  yellow 
and  scarlet,  and  at  sunset  brilliant  carmines,  spectral  greens  and  burning 
golds  stretch  in  great  bands  along  the  gulf  horizon,  or  are  reflected  from 
the  wind-blown  cirrus  of  the  upper  sky.  From  the  mountain-tops  on  clear 
evenings  one  can  look  across  to  Lower  California,  ninety  miles  away,  and 
the  contrast  of  the  wide  cobalt  of  gulf  with  the  wide,  flaming  sky  above  it 
is  most  violent,  imposing,  awe-inspiring.  I have  never  seen  such  brilliant 
sky  effects.  The  normal  coloring  of  the  sea  and  sky  and  mountains  at 
midday  is  bright  enough,  but  at  dawn  and  dusk  everything  is  intensified. 
Nothing  on  the  Mediterranean  can  surpass  in  brilliancy  the  coloring  of 
this  western  coast.  ...” 

Fishing-Trips  can  be  planned  to  the  best  advantage  by  consulting  the 
hotel  management.  The  usual  price  for  a gasoline  launch  (which  will 
hold  8-10  persons)  is  $4  an  hour.  At  least  3 hrs.  are  required  for  the  trip 
to  the  wireless  telegraph  station  at  the  outer  edge  of  the  bay.  The  San 
Vicente  Caves  (uninteresting)  can  be  visited  on  the  outward  trip.  Troll- 
ing lines  are  supplied  (free)  by  the  boatmen.  Bait  for  line-fishing  can 
always  be  had  of  any  of  the  fishing-boats  to  be  found  in  the  bay.  When 
the  tide  makes  in  the  bay  usually  teems  with  fine  fish,  prominent  among 
them  the  Tortuoba  (a  species  of  sea-bass  known  in  the  Southwest 
as  the  Colorado  River  Salmon) ; the  Mero,  or  Jew-fish,  the  Cabrilla , Boca 
Dulce , Y ellow-tail,  Spanish-mackerel  and  whatnot.  Splendid  specimens 
of  the  Tortuoba  (weighing  up  to  150  lbs.)  are  caught  daily.  Oysters, 
lobsters  (spearing  these  is  considered  fine  sport),  shrimps,  etc.,  are  plenti- 
ful. Guaymas  oysters  are  famous.  None  are  taken  from  the  bay; 
the  good  ones  are  brought  from  a point  near  the  mouth  of  the  Yaqui 


SO  Route  21. 


SONORA  STATE 


River.  Near  the  latter  place  are  to  be  found  ducks  and  similar  fowl  in 
great  numbers.  Hunting-trips  can  be  planned  with  the  aid  of  the  hotel 
manager. 

Sonora  (comp.  p.  77),  one  of  the  most  northern  of  the 
Pacific  Coast  States  of  Mexico,  is  the  second  largest  in  the 
Repub.  ( Chihuahua  is  first),  with  an  area  of  199,244  sqr. 
kilom.  Population  221,682.  The  capital,  Hermosillo,  is  de- 
scribed at  p.  77.  It  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  United 
States  of  North  America;  on  the  E.  by  Chihuahua;  on  the 
S.  by  Sinaloa  and  on  the  W.  by  the  Gulf  and  Territory  of 
Lower  California.  The  Sonora  littoral,  which  is  low  and  arid, 
extends  in  a line  almost  parallel  with  Lower  Cal.  and  is 
washed  by  the  Gulf  for  a distance  of  860  kilom.  This  lit- 
toral, from  the  mouth  of  the  Colorado  River  to  the  Port 
of  Agiabampo,  is  indented  with  salty  lagoons  and  marshes 
which  contain  crocodiles  (cocodrilos) , alligators  ( lagartos  or 
caimanes)  and  allied  reptilia. 

Tiburon  (shark)  Island  (2S  M.  from  N.  to  S.  and  15  M.  from 
E.  to  W.)  lies  off  the  coast  almost  in  a line  with  Hermosillo 
and  is  separated  from  the  mainland  by  El  Canal  del  Infuernillo 
(Little  Hell  Strait).  The  island  is  mountainous  and  culminates 
in  a peak  which  rises  7,000  ft.  above  the  surrounding  sea.  It 
is  inhabited  by  a rude  race  of  Indians  (Seris,  of  the  Yuman 
family,  see  p.  lxii)  with  anthropophagous  instincts.  Their 
canoes  are  of  curious  construction;  open  so  that  the  water 
enters  and  remains  at  the  same  level  as  without.  The  Indians 
shoot  turtles  and  fish  with  great  skill,  using  bows  and  arrows. 
Poisoned  arrows  are  employed  when  hunting  game  or  enemies. 
Visitors  to  the  island  are  unwelcome. 

The  Climate  is  hot  on  the  coast,  supportable  on  the  plains 
and  cool  in  the  mts.  During  the  summer  season  the  thermom- 
eter often  reaches  98°  Fahr. ; in  Hermosillo  and  in  Guay  mas 
it  has  reached  as  high  as  119°.  The  minimum  temperature 
of  the  winter  is  45°  Fahr.  Frosts  occur  occasionally  in  the 
Sierra  Madre  region.  The  rainfall  is  moderate.  Where  irriga- 
tion is  resorted  to,  the  land  is  productive.  An  alleged  peculiar- 
ity of  this  region  is  that  rain  sometimes  falls  from  a serene 
and  cloudless  sky:  a statement  for  which  the  author  of  this 
handbook  cannot  vouch. 

The  River  System  comprises  the  Yaqui , Altar  (also  called 
Asuncion ),  San  Igndcio , Mayo , Sonora , Moctezuma , San 
Miguel,  Bavispe  and  several  streams  of  lesser  importance. 

The  Fauna  and  Flora,  remarkable  for  their  wealth  and 
variety,  embrace  a number  of  special  species,  as  well  as  many 
common  to  the  rest  of  the  Repub.  The  Gulf  of  California 
(p.  84),  noted  for  its  fish  and  pearl  oysters,  produces  gems 
superior  to  those  of  the  Gulfs  of  Aden  and  Ceylon.  Black  and 
grizzly  bears  infest  the  mountains,  and  the  mountain  lion, 
ounce,  leopard  and  many  smaller  animals  abound  and  are 


History.  SONORA  21.  Route.  81 

rarely  hunted.  Alligator-hunting  is  one  of  the  most  popular 
sports  of  the  littoral.  The  Principal  Agricultural  Products  are 
fruits,  sugar-cane,  tobacco,  cereals,  cotton  and  a great  vari- 
ety of  vegetables.  Notwithstanding  the  fertility  of  the  soil, 
much  of  the  land  is  uncultivated. 

Mines  : Sonora  is  classed  as  one  of  the  richest  mineral  re- 
gions of  the  Repub.  as  well  as  of  the  world.  The  chief  products 
are  silver,  gold,  lead,  copper  (comp.  Cananea,  p.  71),  coal, 
iron,  antimony,  cinnabar,  graphite,  etc.  There  are  about 
150  mines,  nearly  2,500  mining  claims,  and  an  annual  mineral 
output  of  something  like  $50,000,000.  For  further  information 
under  this  head  consult  the  Sonora  Mining  Directory  published 
by  Findley  and  McDonald  ($1)  at  Cananea. 

Many  Indian  Tribes  have  left  their  mark  on  the  state. 
It  was  long  a rendezvous  for  the  treacherous  and  bloodthirsty 
Apaches  {Athapascan  Family) ; unsubjugated  bands  of  Yaquis 
{Nahuatlan  Family)  still  roam  the  remoter  regions.  There  are 
some  Indian  ruins  at  Babiocari,  and  some  grottoes  with  Indian 
relics  at  Sahuaripa.  The  language  spoken  by  the  Yaquis  is 
the  Cahita,  and  is  referred  to  in  the  bibliography  at  p.  ccxl. 

History.  The  history  of  Sonora  is  linked  with  the  history 
of  its  mines,  for  the  search  for  minerals  brought  the  gold- 
greedy  Iberians  hither.  The  ability  of  a Spanish  Conquistador 
to  locate  a mine  was  almost  a sixth  sense,  and  the  friars  who 
followed  in  the  wake  of  the  great  captain  — like  crows  at  the 
heels  of  a ploughman  — possessed  a like  genius  for  inducing 
the  untutored  and  often  rebellious  Indios  not  only  to  disclose 
their  secrets  of  hidden  treasure  but  to  work  the  deposits  for 
the  benefit  of  the  clergy  — in  the  name  of  the  Church. 

Sonora  first  came  into  history  in  the  12th  cent.,  when  the 
wandering  Aztecs  crossed  the  district  in  their  long  perigrina- 
tion  from  the  unmapped  North  to  their  ultimate  home  in  the 
Vale  of  Anahuac  (p.  clxiv).  The  land  was  then  in  possession 
of  the  Nayaritos  (comp.  p.  93),  a populous  tribe  of  the  Nahu- 
atlan family.  It  was  known  roundabout  for  its  rich  deposits 
of  gold  and  silver;  and  two  centuries  later,  when  the  Aztecs 
had  become  welded  into  a powerful  nation,  one  of  their  care- 
fully guarded  traditions  referred  to  the  land  of  gold  visited  by 
their  nomad  ancestors.  When  the  Mexicans  under  Montezuma 
became  powerful  and  dreaded,  the  Sonora  tribes  (according 
to  the  early  chroniclers)  paid  a handsome  annual  tribute, 
in  gold  and  silver,  to  the  ferocious  war-lord  in  his  southern 
stronghold.  One  of  the  keenest  desires  of  the  Spanish  in- 
vaders was  to  locate  the  source  of  the  vast  wealth  which  they 
found  in  Montezuma’s  possession,  and  Cortes  sent  many  ex- 
peditions in  quest  of  the  coveted  source. 

One  by  one  the  present  Mexican  States  were  invaded,  con- 
quered, ransacked  and  added  to  the  Spanish,  Crown  Colonies. 
Baja  California,  with  its  fabulously  rich  pearl  fisheries,  was 


82  Route  21. 


SONORA 


Lost  Mines. 


annexed  in  due  course,  and  in  1530  (9  yrs.  after  the  downfall 
of  T enochtitldn)  Pedro  Almindez  Chirinos  came  very  near  to 
the  gold  country  when  he  skirted  the  Sonora  littoral  and  sailed 
as  far  north  as  the  mouth  of  the  Yaqui  River. 

The  first  hint  the  Spaniards  in  Mexico  City  received  of  the 
actual  location  of  treasure  was  brought  by  Cabeza  de  Vaca 
(cow’s  head),  who  crossed  the  eastern  corner  of  Sonora  on  his 
celebrated  trip  to  the  Florida  Everglades.  His  report  of  a land 
where  gold  and  silver  could  be  plucked  from  the  surface  of  the 
ground  electrified  the  Viceroy  Don  Antonio  de  Mendoza,  and 
filled  him  with  a fever  of  impatience  to  go  at  once  to  the  spot. 
He  commissioned  (1540)  Francisco  Vasquez  de  Coronado  to 
conquer  the  country  and  bring  back  a load  of  gold  as  evidence 
of  success.  The  region  was  duly  annexed  and  from  that  re- 
mote time  it  has  been'  renowned  for  its  wealth-producing 
mines.  In  1785  the  Viceroy  Matias  de  Galvez  (p.  cxcviii) 
divided  New  Spain  into  12  Intendencias  (Districts),  one  of 
which  comprised  the  present  States  of  Sonora,  and  Sinaloa. 
After  Mexican  Independence  was  achieved  (1821)  they  were 
made  (1S23)  into  separate  states.  By  the  Constitution  of  1824 
thev  were  reunited,  to  be  again  sundered  by  a decree  of  Oct. 
13,  1830. 

The  history  of  some  of  the  mines  is  full  of  interest.  It  is  related  of  the 
famous  Quintera  Mine  (Alamos  District),  that  the  owner  (Seiior  A Imada), 
on  the  occasion  of  the  marriage  of  his  daughter,  lined  the  bridal  chamber 
in  his  palacio  with  rows  of  silver  bars,  and  paved,  with  the  same  pale, 
chaste  material,  the  path  from  the  house  to  the  church.  The  bridal  party 
trod  upon  fabulous  wealth  as  it  proceeded  to  the  altar. 

The  Dona  Maria  Mine  (in  the  Huacal  District)  was  once  exploited  by 
a Spanish  widow.  Dona  Maria  de  Rodriquez,  who,  during  many  years  of 
hard  work,  accumulated  great  wealth  in  the  shape  of  ingots.  These  she 
stored  in  a strong  and  well-guarded  room  in  her  dwelling.  Deciding  to 

Eass  the  remainder  of  her  life  in  Spain,  she  loaded  her  treasure  on  the 
aeks  of  40  mules,  and,  with  a small  army  of  retainers,  travelled  to  the 
City  of  Mexico.  It  was  estimated  that  each  mule  carried  200  lbs.  of 
golcl  and  silver  bars,  so  that  at  that  time  the  tangible  wealth  of  the  indus- 
trious vivda  was  represented  by  four  tons  of  precious  metal. 

According  to  the  old  chronicler,  this  estimable  lady  did  not  breathe 
freely  until  she  had  deposited  her  fortune  in  the  hands  of  the  Spanish 
Viceroy  in  the  capital;  soon  thereafter  she  ceased  to  breathe  entirely, 
for  she  suddenly  and  mysteriously  disappeared.  The  common  report  was 
that  she  had  been  murdered  ana  her  great  fortune  appropriated.  This 
seems  to  have  been  the  case,  as  the  indictment  was  never  successfully 
disproved. 

One  of  the  mines  of  the  Estrella  del  Norte  Mining  Co.  (near  Arispe) 
was  “ lost  ” for  many  years.  The  only  record  touching  its  location  was  a 
notation  on  an  old  Jesuit  map  to  the  effect  that  “the  opening  of  the 
tunnel  can  be  seen  from  the  door  of  the  Mission  Church.”  For  years  the 
hills  in  front  of  this  door  were  searched  for  miles  with  no  results.  In  1905 
aside  wall  of  the  old  church  crumbled  to  ruins  and  disclosed  a hidden  door, 
w’hose  existence  had  never  been  suspected.  From  this  door  a prospector 
searched  the  hill-side  with  a field-glass,  located  the  lost  mine,  and  found 
a huge  fortune  therein. 

The  Yaqui  Indians  were  formerly  as  savage  as  the  Apaches,  and  many 
rich  mines  were  long  “lost”  cecause  the  miners  were  killed  and  prospect- 
ors were  driven  away  from  the  region.  In  1905—06  the  Mexican  Govern- 
ment took  a determined  stand  against  these  wilful  children  of  the  desert* 


Old  Churches. 


SONORA 


21.  Route.  83 


and  transported  many  of  them  to  Yucatan.  In  consequence  many  of  the 
minas  antiguas  are  being  “ re-discovered  ” and  princely  revenues  are  being 
taken  from  some  of  them.  So  crude  were  the  methods  of  the  early  Span- 
iards that  the  discarded  tailings,  worked  by  modern  machinery,  produce 
results  almost  equal  to  those  secured  by  the  first  owners. 

Many  of  the  zealous  padres  of  the  17th  cent,  worked  the 
mines  solely  for  funds  with  which  to  build  churches  and  mis- 
sions. Some  of  these  ancient  edifices  still  remain,  “ like  fossils 
of  an  early  ecclesiological  strata,”  and  the  antiquary  and  lover 
of  romantic  annals  will  find  much  to  interest  him  in  these  re- 
lics of  the  gold-seeking,  militant  church  fathers.  The  churches 
in  the  more  inaccessible  districts  (those  which  have  not  suf- 
fered renovation)  are  excellent  specimens  of  early  Spanish 
missions  in  New  Spain.  Unusually  interesting  ones  are  those 
at  Onabas,  Tecoripa  and  Baroyeca.  The  Baroyeca  church  owes 
its  existence  to  the  discovery  (in  1792)  of  a rich  bonanza,  in 
the  Mina  Grande,  of  the  Baroyeca  Mts.  The  Franciscan  Father, 
Francisco  Joaquin  Valdez , early  employed  some  of  the  pro- 
ceeds of  the  mine  toward  erecting  the  ch.,  which  was  long 
celebrated  for  its  massiveness  and  its  pleasing  architecture. 
Though  now  in  a ruinous  state,  one  of  the  main  walls  still 
measures  over  150  ft.  long  and  5 ft.  thick.  The  old  campanario, 
60  or  more  ft.  high,  with  walls  10  ft.  thick,  is  strikingly  solid. 
The  belfry,  which  contains  a number  of  sweet-toned  bells, 
is  surmounted  by  a handsome  wrought  metal  cross  tipped 
with  a large  star.  The  word  Fortis,  all  that  remains  of  a 
Latin  inscription,  is  cut  deep  into  the  masonry.  Around  the 
mouth  of  the  largest  bell  is  the  inscription  Maria  Purisima  de 
Loreto.  The  upper  part  bears  the  date  Marzo  16  de  1646. 
Another  of  the  bells  bears  the  scarcely  legible  inscription 
Sehor  San  Jose  Patriarca,  and  the  date,  Marzo  20  de  1643. 
On  the  smallest  bell  is  San  Rafael  Dedicado  al  Santisimo  Sacra- 
mento and  Marzo  25  de  1646.  The  ch.  is  in  the  form  of  a Latin 
Cross,  with  a huge  nave  and  transepts.  Adjoining  it  are  roomy 
chapels,  refectories  and  dormitories.  It  was  often  used  as  a 
fortress  when  the  miners  and  clergy  were  besieged  by  the  In- 
dians. Prior  to  1850  the  walls  of  the  santuario  and  the  tras- 
coro  were  covered  with  sheets  of  pure  silver,  the  product  of 
the  famous  mine.  The  sacred  altar  vessels  were  of  pure  gold, 
and  the  candelabra,  the  altar  railing  and  parts  of  the  sanctuary 
of  silver.  The  ch.  stands  in  a spacious  but  neglected  plaza , 
flanked  by  the  ruins  of  the  domiciles  of  the  early  padres. 

The  eternal  silence  of  the  unpeopled  desert  now  broods 
above  this  relic  of  former  grandeur.  It  stands  in  the  midst  of 
a broad  amphitheatre,  surrounded  by  tall  mountains  which 
cut  the  sky-line  with  points  of  blue.  The  adjacent  country  is 
honeycombed  with  rich  mines  and  the  trustful  Indians  be- 
lieve that  Baroyeca  is  destined  to  enjoy  a re-incarnation  and 
that  the  old  bells  from  the  tall  tower  will  again  call  them  to 
vespers  and  prayer. 


84  Route  22.  LOWER  CALIFORNIA 


22.  Lower  California. 

The  Territory  of  Lower  ( el  territorio  de  baja)  California, 
1,109  kilom.  in  length  and  306  in  breadth  at  its  widest  point, 
with  a coast-line  of  3,000  kilom.  and  a population  of  48,000; 
northernmost  of  the  Mexican  possessions  and  pertaining  po- 
litically to  the  Pacific  States  Division  of  the  Mex.  Republic 
(with  a superficial  area  of  151,109  sqr.  kilom.),  takes  the  form 
of  a long  and  narrow  peninsula  which  extends  from  N.  to  S. 
in  the  Pacific  Ocean  for  a distance  of  some  1,500  kilom.  It 
is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  American  State  of  California, 
referred  to  as  Upper  California,  of  which  it  was  once  a part, 
and  which  was  wrested  from  Mexico  in  1846  (comp.  p.  ccx); 
on  the  E.  by  El  GoJfo  de  California  (which  ranks  among  the 
largest  of  the  world)  and  on  the  S.  and  W.  by  the  Pacific 
Ocean.  The  line  which  separates  it  from  the  United  States 
begins  near  Yuma,  Arizona,  and  runs  westward  across  to  the 
Pacific,  which  it  touches  a few  miles  south  of  San  Diego. 

Topographically  the  peninsula  is  interesting:  a cordillera 
running  near  the  E.  coast  traverses  it  from  N.  to  S.,  the  de- 
scent on  the  Gulf  side  being  extremely  abrupt,  while  on  the 
Pacific  side  the  coast  is  reached  by  a succession  of  low  hills. 
This  mountain  ridge,  which  forms  the  backbone  of  the  country, 
is  a continuation  of  the  coast  range  of  Upper  Calif,  and  is 
interwoven  almost  over  its  entire  extent  with  rich  veins  of 
metal.  The  central  region  is  highly  mineralized  and  fine 
granite  strata  are  found.  Near  San  Jose  and  Cape  San  Lucas 
there  are  argentiferous  and  auriferous  outcroppings,  and  in 
the  municipalidades  of  La  Paz  (p.  86),  El  Triunfo  and  San 
Antonio,  veins  of  gold,  silver,  iron  and  other  substances  are 
found  on  the  surface  of  the  mountains. 

In  the  distritos  of  Comondii,  Loreto,  San  Luis  and  Mulege 
(pop.  1,041)  in  the  X.  region,  rich  copper-mines  exist.  The 
Boleo  mines,  situated  in  this  part,  have  for  years  been  one  of 
the  chief  sources  of  the  world’s  copper  supply.  Mica,  iron, 
tin,  gypsum,  marble,  alabaster  and  minor  substances  are  also 
found.  Rich  deposits  of  gold  were  discovered  near  Santa 
Gertrudis  (X.  of  Muleg6)  in  1884;  likewise  a solid  mountain  of 
iron,  rivalling  in  size  the  celebrated  Iron  Mountain  (p.  103) 
of  Durango.  Elsewhere  in  the  peninsula  are  found  plumbago, 
sulphuret  of  lead,  porphyry,  prismatic  p3U’ites,  sulphur,  ox- 
ide of  antimony  and  lead,  carbonate  and  phosphate  of  lead, 
hydroxide  of  iron  and  hydrosilicate  of  copper.  Xature  has 
endowed  this  jejune  region  with  marvellous  metallic  riches, 
and  mining  is  one  of  the  most  profitable  industries.  Physi- 
cally, the  territory  might  be  divided  into  three  mineral  sec- 
tions — the  X.,  or  gold-bearing;  the  S.,  or  argentiferous;  and 
the  central,  or  copper  region.  Various  other  minerals  are  found 
in  all  these  districts.  Some  of  the  mines  near  Santa  Rosalia 


MAGDALENA  BAY 


22.  Route.  85 


were  worked  by  the  Jesuit  fathers  as  early  as  1700.  El  Mineral 
del  Triunfo  is  the  site  of  important  modern  reduction  works. 
Extensive  salt  deposits  occur  at  Ojo  de  Liebre  (Rabbit’s  Eye) 
as  well  as  at  Isla  del  Carmen  and  at  San  Jose,  on  the  Pacific 
Coast.  Large  deposits  of  meerschaum  were  recently  discovered 
on  the  island  of  Santa  Margarita  in  the  Bay  of  Magdalena. 

Magdalena  Bay,  which  was  discovered  by  Francisco  de  Ulloa  in  1539, 
and  which  was  long  a celebrated  rendezvous  of  Spanish  galleons,  pirates 
and  other  adventurers,  came  into  considerable  prominence  in  1908  as  the 
place  where  the  U.  S.  A.  squadron  stopped  for  target  practice  on  its 
memorable  voyage  from  New  York  to  San  Francisco.  Ulloa  sought  it  out 
in  order  to  verify  the  tradition  that  the  nearby  islands  were  inhabited  by 
sirens  and  Amazons.  The  Bay  is  formed  by  the  mainland  and  Santa 
Margarita  Island;  it  is  about  40  M.  long  by  12  M.  wide.  The  town  is  of  no 
importance.  The  harbor  is  one  of  the  finest  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 

The  Climate  is  hot  and  dry  in  the  N.,  but  more  temperate 
toward  the  S.  Here,  where  the  annual  rainfall  can  be  relied 
upon,  and  where  some  irrigation  is  practised,  sugar-cane, 
flowers  and  tropical  fruits  are  successfully  cultivated.  Many 
species  of  flowers  and  ornamental  shrubs  grow  wild;  particu- 
larly in  the  shaded  and  humid  valleys,  where  cabinet  and  dye- 
woods  also  flourish.  Good  oranges  grow  in  the  S.  district. 

The  meagre  rainfall  and  lack  of  irrigation  in  the  N.,  limits 
agricultural  productions.  Drought,  indeed,  is  the  local  curse, 
and  for  weary  months  not  a drop  of  rain  falls  on  the  parched 
deserts.  The  volcanic  nature  of  the  region  adds  an  aspect 
of  extreme  aridity  and  desolation.  With  the  exception  of  the 
Colorado  River  at  the  N.,  and  several  insignificant  streams  in 
the  centre  and  S.,  the  peninsula  is  destitute  of  waterways. 
In  certain  districts  Spanish  Moss  ( Tillandsia  asneoides  Brome- 
liaceas ) grows  and  is  gathered  and  used  for  dyeing  purposes. 
Henequen  (comp.  p.  583)  is  found  in  the  central  regions,  and 
some  hemp  is  produced  adjacent  to  the  Colorado  River. 

Many  ancient  Indian  remains,  rock-paintings  and  inscrip- 
tions have  been  found  in  the  N.  region,  which  is  the  present 
home  of  the  Yuman  Family  of  Indians,  comprising  about 
2,500  members. 

The  Fauna  is  limited  and  differs  but  little  from  that  of  other 
northern  Mexican  states.  The  sperm-whale  and  otter  are  found 
on  the  W.  coast,  along  with  grayback  whales,  seals  and  sea- 
lions.  The  tepid  waters  of  the  Gulf  teem  with  a great  variety 
of  fish.  Alligators  infest  the  bayous  and  river-mouths;  alliga- 
tor-hunting being  one  of  the  chief  sports  of  the  inhabitants 
of  the  ports.  Huge  turtles  abound,  and  tortoises,  the  shell  of 
which  forms  an  important  article  of  commerce,  exist.  Sword- 
fish, sharks,  — the  latter  a constant  menace  to  the  pearl 
fishers  (comp.  p.  87),  — squid  and  sponges  are  found;  also 
beautiful  coral  and  the  much-prized  ambergris. 

For  political  reasons  the  Peninsula  is  divided  into  two 
districts  — the  N.  with  a pop.  of  7,589,  and  the  S.  with  40,041. 


86  Route  22. 


LA  PAZ 


The  latter  is  subdivided  into  two  partidos  and  seven  munici - 
palidades.  The  Partido  del  Sur  (S.  region)  comprises  the 
municipalidades  of  La  Paz,  San  Antonio,  San  Jose  and  Tod  os 
Santos;  the  Partido  del  Centro  embracing  Mulege  and  Co- 
mondu.  The  chief  city  is  La  Paz  (see  below),  the  capital  of 
the  S.  district.  Ensenada  de  Todos  Santos  (All  Saints’  Cove)  is 
the  chief  town  of  the  N.  distrito,  with  a pop.  of  3,800. 

La  Paz  (peace),  chief  city  of  the  S.  district,  pop.  6,000, 
opposite  the  mainland  State  of  Sinaloa  and  the  port  of  Altata, 
220  M.  south  of  Guaymas,  and  the  principal  outlet  for  the 
products  of  the  country,  was  discovered  in  1542. 

From  San  Francisco,  California,  La  Paz  is  best  reached  by  one  of  the 
steamers  of  the  Pacific  Coast  Steamship  Company  ( Compania  de  Vapores 
de  la  Costa  del  Pacifico),  which  operates  a monthly  service  between  Cali-  i 
tornia  ports  and  the  Mexican  port  of  Guaymas  (Sonora),  touching  at  in- 
termediate ports.  The  1st  cl.  fare  by  this  line  from  S.  F.  to  La  Paz  is 
$50  U.  S.  currency;  time  8 days.  Ships  stop  at  Ensenada,  San  Jose  del 
Cabo,  Mazatlan,  Altata,  and  thence  go  direct  across  the  Gulf  to  La  Paz. 
From  other  than  Pacific  coast  points  in  the  United  States,  La  Paz  is  best 
reached  by  rail  to  Nogales  (Arizona),  thence  by  the  Ferrocarril  de  Sonora  j 
to  Guaymas;  fare  from  Nogales  to  Guaymas,  first-class.  §17.08,  time  12 
hours;  distance  427  kilometers  (265  miles).  For  rates  of  passage  and  sail- 
ing dates  from  Guaymas  to  La  Paz  (time  two  days)  address  Senores 
W . Iberri  e Hijos,  Svoesores , Guaymas,  Mexico. 

Proceeding  southward  from  La  Paz  a steamer  is  accessible  to  Mazatlan  i 
or  Manzanillo,  Mexico.  From  the  latter  port,  rail  connections  can  be  had 
to  Guadalajara  (p.  161)  and  all  points  in  Mexico. 

Despite  its  somewhat  unkempt  appearance  La  Paz  is  the  j 
most  important  pearl-fishing  town  on  the  Pacific  Coast  of 
America,  and  it  ranks  as  one  of  the  three  greatest  pearl-  \ 
producing  centres  of  the  world.  Four  fifths  of  the  inhabitants  | 
are  Mexican;  the  rest  are  American,  German,  French  and  ] 
other  nationalities.  The  principal  section  of  the  town  lies  in 
a depression  along  the  shore  of  the  bay  and  almost  on  a I 
level  therewith.  The  residence  portion,  the  parochial  church,  i 
and  the  barracks,  stand  on  an  elevated  mesa  which  dominates  I 
the  lower  town.  The  general  aspect  of  the  place  is  not  un-  I 
pleasing,  with  the  pretty  Jardin  Velasco  and  the  straight  I 
streets  bordered  by  one-story  adobe  houses  and  flowering  | 
trees.  A line  of  squat  but  massive  warehouses  ( bodegas ) stand  I 
back  from  the  mall,  and  through  their  iron-barred  windows  j 
comes  the  omnipresent  odor  of  tons  of  oyster-shells,  stored  for  u 
foreign  shipment.  The  town  has  all  the  aspect  of  a fishing-  jj 
port,  with  the  addition  of  that  imparted  by  the  odd  diving  j 
accoutrements  employed  in  the  search  for  pearls.  On  the  r 
whole  it  looks  more  material  than  picturesque,  and  market- 
quotations  for  pearls  and  pearl-shells  provide  the  theme  for  I 
almost  all  the  conversation. 

The  public  buildings  afford  but  little  interest  to  the  trav- 
eller. The  Palacio  del  Gobierno  (municipal  building),  con- 
taining the  local  government  offices;  the  Parochial  Churchy  j 
with  no  pictures  of  merit;  the  Hospital  Salvatierraf  El  TeatrOy 


LA  PAZ 


22.  Route.  87 


Pearl  Fishing. 

the  Carcel  (jail)  and  El  Mercado  (the  market),  and  the  Parque 
Porfirio  Diaz , with  a few  tropical  flowers,  are  the  principal 
“ sights.”  The  climate  is  dry  and  healthy.  Unacclimated 
travellers  are  advised  to  drink  boiled  or  bottled  waters. 

History.  When  Cortes  departed  from  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec 
in  1526  to  explore  the  southern  seas,  he  first  sailed  northward  and  touched 
the  coast  of  Baja  California , which  he  called  Calida  Fornax  (heated  oven). 
In  1540  the  Viceroy  Don  Antonio  de  Mendoza  sent  out  an  expedition 
under  Francisco  de  Alarcon  and  the  Spanish  pilot  Domingo  del  Castillo. 
Failing  to  subdue  the  natives  this  expedition  was  supplemented  (1542) 
by  the  one  which  reached  La  Paz  and  Magdalena.  A third  expedition  was 
despatched  in  1596,  under  Capt.  Sebastian  Viscaino , and  in  another  voyage, 
made  in  1602,  the  coast  of  the  present  State  of  Sonora  was  mapped.  Esteben 
Carbonelli,  while  sailing  in  the  Gulf  in  1636,  touched  at  the  port  of  Muleg£ 
and  discovered  that  for  generations  pearl-fishing  had  been  practised  by 
the  natives.  He  hastened  back  to  Mexico  to  report  his  find.  Within  a 
year  the  peninsula  was  overrun  with  adventurers,  accompanied  by  Friars 
of  the  Compafda  de  Jesus , who  took  possession  of  much  of  the  land; 
their  rights  were  confirmed  by  an  order  of  Charles  III.  In  1720  a mission 
was  established  here  by  the  Catholic  fathers  Ugarte  and  Bravo%  and  in 
1830  La  Paz  was  made  the  capital  of  the  territory. 

Pearl-Fishing  is  one  of  the  most  important  and  pictur- 
esque occupations  of  the  people.  Extensive  beds  ( lechos 
peril fer  os)  of  pearl-bearing  oysters  exist  near  La  Paz,  and 
from  this  port  the  majority  of  the  pearls  are  exported.  The 
pearl-fishing  season  along  the  inner  shore  of  Lower  California 
begins  in  July  and  ends  in  October;  that  on  the  Pacific  side 
begins  in  March  and  ends  with  the  advent  of  the  June  hurri- 
canes. The  pearl-oyster  belongs  to  the  non-edible  variety 
and  is  neither  palatable  nor  wholesome.  Unlike  the  edible 
oyster  — which  is  found  in  extensive  and  populous  beds  — 
the  pearl-oysters  are  scattered  over  a wide  area  and  must 
be  sought  singly,  by  the  divers.  Two  or  more  divers  will 
oftentimes  work  a fortnight  to  harvest  a ton  of  pearl-bearing 
shells.  The  shell  of  the  pearl-oyster  ( Avicula  margaritifera) 
differs  from  the  bivalve  shell  of  the  edible  mollusk  ( genus 
ostrea)  in  that  it  is  often  symmetrically  ribbed,  sometimes 
as  large  as  a disc  15  or  more  inches  in  diameter,  and  produces 
the  beautiful  transparent  lining  called  mother-of-pearl,  which 
is  prized  for  delicate  ornamental  and  inlaid  work.  The  divers 
— natives  inured  to  the  peculiar  and  trying  occupation  — 
bring  the  shells  to  the  surface  in  wire  baskets  adapted  to 
the  purpose.  One  of  the  American  pearl-fishing  companies 
at  La  Paz  employs  about  a thousand  men,  and  a half-dozen 
schooners,  each  of  a hundred  tons  burden.  Modern  diving- 
suits are  used,  and,  clad  in  these,  the  divers  oftentimes  remain 
an  hour  below  the  surface  of  the  water.  The  usual  work  is 
done  at  about  five  fathoms  (30  ft.),  albeit  divers  sometimes 
go  as  deep  as  18  fathoms.  The  men  soon  become  deaf,  and 
after  a few  seasons  retire  with  shattered  nerves.  A pearl- 
diver  is  called  a Buzo  de  perla.  Independent  divers,  who  work 
without  diving  apparatus,  descend  by  attaching  a heavy 


88  Route  22. 


LA  PAZ 


Pearls . 


stone  to  their  feet.  This  weight  carries  them  quickly  to  the  ' 
bottom,  where  they  must  work  rapidly,  as  fifty  seconds  is 
the  average  time  during  which  they  can  remain  under  water 
without  breathing.  Stories  of  divers  who  remain  under  water  i 
for  five  minutes  should  be  discredited.  In  addition  to  the 
pearl-oysters,  all  sorts  of  curious  marine  animals  and  plants  j 
are  brought  up  by  the  divers. 

The  Pearl-Hunters  are  usually  men  who  have  outlived  j 
their  usefulness  as  divers.  They  work  in  long,  open  sheds 
along  the  shore,  near  the  company’s  bodega  and  under  the 
watchful  eye  of  an  inspector.  As  the  shells  are  opened  the 
workmen  insert  sensitive  fingers  and  probe  for  the  pearls.  ' 
Hundreds  of  shells  are  sometimes  searched  before  a pearl  is 
found.  This  is  formed  usually  by  a minute  particle  of  sand 
or  some  irritating  material,  which  the  uneasy  oyster  ( ostra , 
ostion)  covers  with  the  smooth  nacre.  Certain  parasites  bore 
through  the  shells  and  when  covered  make  the  finest  pearls. 

The  predominating  color  of  the  Pearls  found  is  white, 
albeit  blue,  black,  green,  pink  and  multi-colored  pearls  are 
often  encountered.  The  shapes  are  as  varied  as  the  colors. 
Pearls  with  a golden  blush,  or  with  a faint  bluish  or  rose  tint, 
are  esteemed  above  the  finest  white  specimens.  They  are 
divided  into  many  classes;  the  price  of  a good  pearl  ranging 
from  SI 00  to  SI, 000  Mexican  silver.  Many  splendid  gems  have 
been  found  here.  Some  of  the  finest  ever  produced  were 
shipped  to  Spain  soon  after  the  Conquest.  When  the  Spaniards 
reached  the  district  they  found  many  beautiful  pearls  in  pos- 
session of  the  natives.  They  were  astonished  to  find  the  rude 
Indians  dwelling  in  miserable  jacales  (huts)  along  the  shore 
but  possessing  a king’s  ransom  in  gems  obtained  from  the  pro- 
ductive waters  of  the  bay.  The  Conquistador es  immediately 
enslaved  the  natives  in  and  near  La  Paz,  named  the  gulf 
El  Golfo  de  Cortes  (in  honor  of  Hernan  Cortes)  and  established 
new  fisheries  for  the  benefit  of  the  Castilian  Crown.  Of  the 
amount  of  pearls  secured  by  the  Spaniards  no  trustworthy 
records  exist.  Pedro  Sepulveda . Governor  of  the  pearl-fisher- 
ies of  New  Spain,  reported  in  1715  that  the  total  shipment  of 
pearls  to  Madrid  for  that  year  amounted  to  1,‘2S0  ounces.  J 
It  is  believed  that  the  splendid  pearls  possessed  by  the  Span-  j 
ish  Crown,  the  rare  and  immensely  valuable  bluish-tinted 
pearls  in  the  possession  of  the  Emperor  of  Austria,  and  manj  I 
of  the  finest  jewels  of  European  dynasties  were  drawn  from  j 
this  source.  One  of  the  largest  pearls  ever  found  in  the  waters  i 
of  the  gulf  measured  about  three  fourths  of  an  inch  in  dia- 
meter and  was  sold  in  Paris,  to  the  Emperor  of  Austria,  for 
810,000.  A black  pearl  in  the  possession  of  Napoleon  III  came 
from  La  Paz.  It  was  valued  in  Madrid  at  $25,000  and  was 
presented  to  the  French  Government  by  Spain.  A magnificent 
rose  pearl  found  in  the  18th  century  brought  $50,000  in  Europe. 


GUAYMAS  TO  GUADALAJARA  23.  Rte.  89 


The  annual  production  of  pearls  is  valued  at  about  $3,000,000. 
Strangers  are  advised  to  be  on  their  guard  against  men  clad 
as  pearl-divers  who  offer  ostensibly  stolen  pearls  for  sale. 

23.  From  Guaymas  via  Navojoa,  Culiacan,  Mazat- 
lan  and  Tepic  to  Guadalajara. 

SOUTHERN  PACIFIC  RAILROAD  OF  MEXICO. 

{West  Coast  Route.) 

Sections  of  the  line  are  still  under  construction.  The  railhead  is  near 
Ruiz,  in  the  State  of  Nayarit.  When  Guadalajara,  the  ultimate  terminal,  is 
reached,  connections  can  be  made  there  with  the  National  Railways  of 
Mexico  to  all  points  in  the  Republic. 

Pullman  cars  with  good  broiler  service  run  through  to  Mazatldn.  The  food 
along  the  rly.  is  good  and  there  is  plenty  of  it,  as  the  fruit  and  other  prod- 
ucts are  equal  to  those  of  California. 

When  completed  the  rly.  will  be  one  of  the  finest  scenic  routes  of  the 
world,  as  the  country  it  penetrates  is  extraordinarily  wild  and  picturesque. 
The  line  crosses  the  fertile  coast  plains  of  the  West  Coast  region,  rises 
through  the  foothill  and  mesa  country  of  Nayarit,  then  climbs  over  the  splen- 
did Sierra  Madre  Mountains  to  the  beautiful  plateau  city  of  Guadalajara 
(p.  161).  Rich  and  beautiful  tropical  valleys,  extensive  fields  of  sugar-cane, 
tomato  and  tobacco  plantations,  forests  of  ebony,  mahogany  and  other 
precious  woods,  and  romantic  gorges  hundreds  of  feet  deep  are  features  of 
the  line. 

It  winds  across  a wonderful  virgin  country  teeming  with  riches  and  pos- 
sibilities, and  awaiting  only  the  hand  of  progress  to  make  it  one  of  the 
garden  spots  of  the  continent.  The  mineral  wealth  of  the  region  is  practi- 
cally limitless.  Oil  no  doubt  lies  beneath  the  vast  semi-tropical  forests  which 
cover  miles  of  the  territory.  — The  climate  is  almost  perfect  in  certain 
sections,  with  a choice  of  heat  in  the  coast  region,  and  cool  spring  days  in 
the  mountains. 

From  Guaymas  the  trend  of  the  line  is  S.-E.  67  K.  Oroz, 
is  the  point  of  departure  for  (6  K.)  La  Joy  a,  an  American 
settlement  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Yaqui  River.  Ill  K.  Corral , 
junction  of  the  Yaqui  River  Branch  to  (155  K.)  Tonichi. 

Southward  from  Corral  the  line  traverses  an  amazingly 
productive  region  of  virgin  soil  and  many  semi-tropical  prod- 
ucts. — 196  K.  Navojoa , junction  of  the  Alamos  Branch  to 
(62  K.)  Alamos. 

331  K.  San  Bias , on  the  bank  of  the  Fuerte  River.  Crossing 

of  the  Kansas  City,  Mexico  & Orient  Railway  (p.  56)  and 
point  of  departure  for  Topolobampo  (p.  62),  and  Fuerte,  40  K. 
to  the  E. 

550  K.  Culiacan  (Rosales),  pop.  25,000,  capital  of  the  State 
of  Sinaloa,  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Sinaloa  River.  — Hotel 
Rosales ; Hotel  Cohen;  rooms  from  $2  up  per  day. 

The  Plaza  de  Rosales  is  highly  tropical,  and  that  of  La  Constitucidn  is 
flanked  by  a double  row  of  orange  trees,  which  thrive  here.  Quaint  por- 
tales,  the  Cathedral  and  the  Seminario  adorn  the  sides  of  this  plaza.  — The 
town  is  linked  to  the  Pacific  Ocean  port  of  Altata  by  the  Ferrocarril  Occi- 
dental, 62  kiloms.  long.  — About  4 M.  E.  of  Culiacan  are  locally  cele- 
brated hot  springs.  Many  Aztec  remains  (relics  of  early  occupation)  are 
found  in  the  neighborhood.  It  is  an  outfitting-point  for  ipining-camps  in 
E.  Sinaloa  and  W.  Chihuahua  and  Durango. 

603  K.  Quila,  junction  of  the  El  Dorado  Branch  for  points 
on  the  San  Lorenzo  River . 


90  Route  2J+. 


STATE  OF  SINALOA 


771  K.  Mazatlan  (Aztec:  place  of  the  deer),  with  a growing 
pop.  of  30.000,  stands  on  a picturesque  peninsula  overlooking 
the  fine  Olas  Alt  as  Bay , of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  diagonally 
opposite  Cape  San  Lucas,  the  southernmost  point  of  Lower 
California.  It  is  just  south  of  the  Tropic  of  Cancer,  in  the 
State  of  Sinaloa,  in  lat.  23°,  11',  18"  and  long.  7°,  16',  59". 
In  the  midst  of  a rich  and  productive  region,  Mazatlan  is 
regarded  as  one  of  the  great  Ports  of  Mexico.  There  are  a 
number  of  foreign  consuls,  and  several  hotels.  Hotels  Central , 
de  France,  and  Nacional;  rates  from  $2  up,  a day,  for  rooms; 
meals  a la  carta . 

The  big  and  popular  ships  of  the  Compania  Naviera  de  los 
Estados  de  Mexico,  S.  A.  (Mexican  States  Line),  G . S.  Coppel 
& Bro.,  Agents;  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Co.  ( Wohler , 
Bartning,  Suers.,  Agents),  and  the  Compania  Naviera  Mexi- 
cana,  S.  A.  ySenor  Martin  Careaga,  Agt.)  make  Mazatlan  a 
regular  port  of  call.  Good  and  frequent  service. 

Mazatlan  is  the  metropolis  for  many  towns  in  the  environing 
country,  and  in  due  course  it  will  be  a railway  centre  of  im- 
portance. A line  of  (Gov’t)  railway  is  building  from  Durango 
(p.  100),  and  when  this  is  completed  the  Port  will  be  in  close 
touch  with  all  Eastern  Mexico.  Trains  are  running  out  of 
Durango  at  present  to  (135  K.)  El  Salto,  — about  one-third 
of  the  distance. 

For  a continuation  of  Route  23,  see  page  91. 

24.  State  of  Sinaloa. 

The  State  of  Sinaloa  (so  called  for  a tribe  of  Indians,  the 
Sinaloas,  established  in  the  Rio  Fuerte  region),  with  an  area 
of  87,231  sqr.  kiloms.,  a population  of  296,800,  and  a coast- 
line of  510  kiloms.,  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  Sonora  and  Chi- 
huahua, on  the  E.  by  Chihuahua  and  Durango,  on  the  S. 
by  the  State  of  Nayarit  and  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  on  the 
W.  by  the  Golfo  de  California.  During  the  Spanish  domina- 
tion it  was  called  Nuevo  Aragon.  The  Gulf  of  California  ex- 
tends along  the  coast  of  the  state  from  Agiabampo  Bay  to  the 
south  of  Mazatlan,  at  which  point  the  Pacific  coast-line  begins. 

The  general  topographical  condition  of  the  state  (highlv 
mineralized)  is  mountainous.  Gold,  silver,  copper,  iron  and 
lead  are  the  chief  products.  The  richest  agricultural  section 
occupies  a strip  of  territory  lying  along  the  western  slope  of 
the  Sierra  Madres,  and  between  this  and  the  Gulf. 

The  state  is  well  watered.  Nearly  all  of  the  rivers  (about 
200)  have  their  rise  in  the  Sierra  Madres  and  empty  into  the 
Gulf  of  California.  In  the  mountainous  region  the  climate  is 
temperate,  with  cold  nights,  and  on  the  coast  it  is  very  warm. 
The  fauna  and  flora  are  rich  and  unusually  varied.  Sugar- 
cane is  grown  extensively. 


GUAYMAS  TO  GUADALAJARA  23.  Rte.  91 


Route  23,  continued  from  page  90. 

Construction  is  in  progress  southward  on  the  rly.  line,  and 
travellers  can  often  reach  distant  points  on  the  local  and  con- 
struction trains.  Diligencias  and  sometimes  Ford  autos  act 
as  feeders  to  the  line,  and  connect  it  with  inland  towns  and 
haciendas . At  K.  910  the  rly.  crosses  the  Las  Cahas  River  into 
Nayarit  territory,  then  proceeds  to  (1002  K.)  Yago , on  the 
Santiago  River.  (1082  K.)  Tepic . 

Tepic  (a  Nahuatl  word  compounded  from  tetl  — stone,  and 
pic  — hard),  capital  of  the  State  of  Nayarit , 3*069  ft.  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  with  a population  of  15,500;  is  beautifully 
situated  on  a broad  plain  almost  at  the  foot  of  the  now  quies- 
cent volcano  of  Sanganguey.  A small  river  (the  Tepic)  passes 
by  the  town  in  a northerly  direction  and  empties  into  the 
Rio  Santiago.  The  Indian  pueblo  which  occupied  the  site 
of  the  present  town  was  visited  by  the  Spaniards  in  1535. 
In  1811  the  Cortes  Espaholes  gave  the  place  the  title  of  Noble 
y Leal  Ciudad  de  Tepic.  The  Cathedral  (formerly  the  par - 
roquia)  dates  from  1750.  The  Templo  de  la  Cruz  was  erected 
in  1777.  The  primitive  inhabitants  of  the  region  were  possessed 
of  an  artistic  sense,  for  several  handsome  pieces  of  pottery 
have  been  unearthed  in  the  vicinity  (comp.  p.  lxxv).  The  fine 
Tediro  Porjirio  Diaz  was  erected  in  1907.  The  town  contains 
a number  of  attractive  plazas  with  tall  palms  and  beautiful 
tropical  flowers.  The  Alameda  is  the  favorite  promenade. 
In  the  Jardin  de  la  Plaza  Principal  is  a monument  commem- 
orating the  Pacificacion  del  Territorio,  in  1873.  The  iron 
monument  to  Benito  Juarez , facing  the  Calle  de  Mexico , was 
erected  in  1906  to  celebrate  the  first  centenary  of  that  patriot. 
Chief  among  the  paseos  and  jardines  are  the  Parque  Porjirio 
Diaz , the  Jardin  Sanroman , Zaragoza  and  Loma  de  la  Cruz. 
The  Palacio  Municipal  dates  from  1882.  The  climate  is  health- 
ful, but  paludal  fevers  prevail  near  the  coast. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  Hotel  Brandes;  rooms  from  $2  up;  room  and  board 
from  $4.  Well  spoken  of. 

The  Diligences  which  ply  between  the  city  and  outlying  places  usually 
advertise  rates,  time  of  departure,  etc.,  on  posters  which  are  to  be  found 
in  the  hotel  lobby. 

Banks.  Banco  Nacional.  Banco  de  Jalisco. 

Cabs  ( coches  de  sitio ) SI  per  hour;  $1.50  on  feast  days. 

The  most  important  towns  to  the  south  of  Tepic,  on  the 
railway,  are  Compostela  and  Ixtldn.  The  gigantic  mass  of  the 
Sierra  Madre  Mts.  dominates  the  country,  which  is  rich  and 
peculiarly  attractive.  The  native  tribes  one  meets  differ  in 
many  ways  from  those  of  Central  and  Southern  Mexico,  and 
their  habits  and  manners  are  of  unfailing  interest  to  the 
stranger.  As  a rule  they  are  better  workers  than  the  East  Coast 
men. 

The  Port  of  San  Bias,  25  M.  southwest  of  Tepic  City  (hotel 
Guzmdn , rooms  from  $2  up  per  day)  is  touched  at  regularly  by 


92  Route  25.  STATE  OF  NAYARIT 


Huichol 


the  popular  steamers  of  the  Mexican  States  Line,  and  the 
Compahia  Naviera  Mexicana  ( Sehor  Alberto  P . Reynaud , 
agent  for  both  lines),  also  The  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Co. 

( Dolores  E.  Viuda  de  Lanzagorta,  Agent).  These  steamship 
lines  also  touch  at  Manzanillo , the  Port  for  Guadalajara,  and 
at  other  southern  Mexican  ports. 

25.  State  of  Nayarit. 

The  State  of  Nayarit,  with  151,000  inhabitants  and  an  area 
of  29,211  sqr.  kilometros,  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  Sinaloa  and 
Durango,  on  the  E.  and  S.  by  Jalisco,  and  on  the  W.  by  the 
Pacific  Ocean  (called  El  Grande  Oceano ),  with  a coast-lme  of 
500  kiloms.  It  is  one  of  the  richest  regions  in  the  Republic. 

The  Sierra  Madre  range  crosses  the  State  from  S.-E.  to  j 
N.-W.  and  its  course  is  marked  by  deep  barrancas  and  plung-  1 
ing  rivers.  Precipitous  cliffs  occur  with  great  frequency,  ; 
and  in  the  southern  part,  in  the  Distrito  de  Ahuacatlan,  the  j 
country  is  almost  entirely  of  volcanic  origin.  The  chief  fea-  j 
ture  of  this  section  is  the  celebrated  Volcan  de  Ceboruco 
(7,213  ft.),  which  in  1870  became  violently  active  and  threw 
out  vast  quantities  of  lava  and  ashes.  Near  by  is  the  equally 
renowned  Pico  de  Sangangiiey  (an  extinct  volcano)  which 
rises  6,660  ft.  above  the  sea.  The  agricultural  products  are  j 
numerous  and  are  similar  to  those  of  other  tropical  districts. 
The  coffee  is  renowmed  for  its  excellence.  The  best  coffee-lands 
lie  within  the  Distrito  de  Compostela,  in  a zone  parallel  to  the 
ocean  and  about  2,500  ft.  above  it.  . 

Albeit  the  state  is  the  home  of  many  Indian  tribes  (most  \ 
important  are  the  Huicholes  and  the  Coras,  in  the  Sierra  j 
de  Nayarit , p.  93),  notable  architectural  ruins  are  lacking. 
Mounds  abound,  and  from  some  of  them  idols,  terra-cotta  i 
figures,  beautiful  pottery  (p.  lxxv),  gold  bells  and  whatnot 
have  been  exhumed.  Many  of  the  idols  have  been  found  near  | 
lztlan  (a  Nahuatl  word  — “where  there  is  iztli,”  obsidian). 
They  are  usually  in  a sitting  posture,  of  a light  brown  color, 
hard-baked  and  hideous.  They  show  Tarascan  (p.  218)  in-  1 
fluence,  and  good  specimens  may  be  obtained  in  the  antique 

shops  of  Mexico  City.  . . . r 

The  Sierra  Madre  Mts.  in  Nayarit  are  the  home  of  vari- 
ous tribes  of  Indians  who  mix  but  little  wTith  their  neigh- 
bors, and  whose  customs  are  curious  and  interesting.  Chiel 
among  them  are  the  Vishdlika  — healers ; called  Huicholes 
by  the  Mexicans.  The  early  Spaniards  found  them  dwelling 
in  their  mountain  fastnesses  and  they  were  so  strongly  in- 
trenched, and  so  warlike,  that  it  w^as  not  until  1722  that  they 
were  able  to  conquer  them.  The  Franciscan  missionaries  then 
erected  churches,  and  the  tribe  became  alleged  converts  to 
Christianity.  Even  the  zealous  friars  found  these  Indians 
difficult  material,  and  to-day  the  churches  are  in  ruins,  no 


Indians . 


STATE  OF  NAYARIT  25.  Route.  93 


priests  dwell  there,  and  the  ancient  beliefs  and  ceremonies  are 
adhered  to.  The  Indians  profess  Christianity  only  when  favors 
are  to  be  obtained.  Their  Mexican  neighbors  call  them 
bdrbaros  — barbarians.  The  lees  of  the  tribe  — about  4,000 
— dwell  in  a region  very  difficult  of  access,  in  a huge  barranca , 
some  40  miles  long  by  25  wide,  in  the  Sierra  de  Nayarit.  The 
Jesuit  Father,  Ortega,  said  of  the  Sierra  de  Nayarit : “ It  is  so 
wild  and  frightful  to  behold  that  its  ruggedness,  even  more 
than  the  arrows  of  its  warlike  inhabitants,  took  away  the 
courage  of  the  conquerors,  because  not  only  the  ridges  and 
valleys  appear  inaccessible,  but  the  extended  range  of  tower- 
ing mountain  peaks  confused  even  the  eye.”  In  addition 
the  district  bears  an  infamous  reputation  for  scorpions  — the 
Huichol  and  Cora  districts  fairly  teeming  with  them.  In 
some  cases  land  which  is  overrun  with  them  has  to  be 
abandoned.  Many  children  die  each  year  from  their  venom. 

Not  all  of  the  scorpions  of  the  locality  are  dangerous.  The  small, whit- 
ish-yellow variety  is  most  dreaded.  Unless  prompt  measures  are  taken 
the  sting  causes  death  within  two  hours.  For  some  occult  reason,  certain 
persons  are  immune  and  can  handle  the  insects  with  impunity.  Others 
are  apparently  antagonistic,  and  are  stung  frequently.  The  local  antidote 
is  to  open  the  scorpion  and  apply  it  to  the  wound.  Hikuli  (p.  lxxxvii)  is 
an  efficient  cure  for  the  scorpion’s  sting.  It  is  thought  that  a zone  of  scor- 
pions extends  from  the  mining-town  of  Bramador , near  Talpa  (Territory 
of  Tepic),  as  far  north  as  Durango  City  (p.  100),  where  they  are  a pest. 

The  dividing  line  between  the  States  of  Sinaloa  and 
Durango  runs  along  the  Sierra  de  Nayarit. 

One  of  the  Huichol  traditions  refers  to  a great  deluge; 
another  mentions  that  the  tribe  originated  in  the  South. 
They  are  the  same  color  as  the  Tarahumares  (p.  57),  whom 
they  resemble.  The  average  Huichol  is  5 ft.  5 inches  high  and 
singularly  healthy.  They  are  fond  of  water  and  bathe  each 
day.  The  members  of  the  tribe  usually  die  of  old  age.  Unlike 
their  fighting  ancestors  they  lack  personal  courage.  They  are 
fairly  quick-witted  and  not  over-scrupulous.  During  their 
intercourse  with  Mexicans  they  have  learned  to  economize 
the  truth.  To  them  the  Mexs.  apply  the  proverb:  “The  In- 
dian, the  bird  and  the  deer  are  gone  when  they  are  gone.” 
Hunting  is  the  chief  occupation;  deer  are  snared  in  nets 
stretched  on  two  poles. 

Some  of  the  Huicholes  bear  such  a strong  facial  resemblance 
to  the  Chinese  that  the  Mexs.  call  them  Chinos  (Chinamen). 
In  their  religious  ceremonies  they  use  a wicker  chair  that  is 
a counterpart  of  the  round  cane  chair  made  by  the  Chinese 
and  used  throughout  the  Far  East.  Every  man  is  called 
the  son  of  some  god;  every  girl  is  a goddess.  The  infant 
Huichol  never  creeps  or  puts  its  knees  to  the  ground  as 
does  a white  baby;  it  goes  about  on  all  fours,  like  a monkey, 
before  it  is  able  to  stand.  In  this  practice  it  is  like  the  Zuni 
Indian  baby  of  New  Mexico. 


94  Route  25. 


INDIAN  CUSTOMS 


Huichol 


Marriages  are  made  by  the  parents.  Morals  are  never  looked 
after  very  closely.  Men  and  women  are  fond  of  wearing  im- 
mensely broad-brimmed  straw  hats,  with  very  low  crowns, 
elaborately  trimmed  with  flowers  and  feathers.  The  effect  is 
curious;  imparting  a sort  of  lackadaisical  aspect.  These  hats 
are  a specialty  of  the  tribe. 

The  Huichol  man  carries  a bow  and  arrows  made  of  light 
hard  wood  and  stuck  in  his  girdle.  Burdens  are  packed  on  the 
back,  in  huge  nets  shaped  like  an  oyster.  Striking  features 
of  the  Huichol  costume  are  pouches  woven  of  wool  or  cotton, 
in  a great  variety  of  designs.  Two  or  three  such  bags  (which 
take  the  place  of  pockets)  generally  hang  from  the  shoulder, 
and  one,  which  is  never  missing,  is  suspended  in  front  and  below 
the  girdle.  In  this  the  Indian  carries  his  tobacco,  flint  and 
steel  for  striking  fire.  The  pouch  gives  the  weight  necessary 
to  hold  the  shirt  in  place.  Rows  of  small  pouches,  measuring 
usually  3 by  6 inches,  of  exquisite  workmanship,  fastened  i 
to  each  other  at  the  upper  corners,  are  generally  w^orn  below 
the  girdle.  On  festive  occasions  a man  may  wear  as  many 
as  12  pouches,  hanging  on  both  sides  from  the  shoulders. 
The  hair  is  worn  long  and  flowing,  confined  at  the  brow  with 
handsome,  woven  head-bands  (desirable  curios).  In  the  ob-  i 
servance  of  certain  religious  rites  they  deck  themselves  out  i 
gayly  with  ribbons  and  feathers.  Some  carry  sticks  on  which 
eagle  plumes  are  attached.  (Eagles  are  supposed  to  possess  | 
mystic  powers  and  their  feathers  are  coveted  as  a protection 
against  evil.) 

Many  good-looking  women  are  found  among  the  Huicholes.  ! 
They  wear  short  skirts  and  tunics  of  cotton  cloth,  made  on 
primitive  looms  and  elaborately  embroidered.  The  legs  are 
left 'bare.  “Over  the  shoulder  is  worn  a kerchief  of  cotton 
cloth,  tastefully  embroidered  with  red  and  blue  thread,  and  i 
finished  at  the  lower  edge  with  a band  of  red  flannel.  The 
skirt  is  caught  at  the  waist  by  a long,  artistically  woven  i 
girdle.  These  require  days  of  patient  work  to  finish  and  are  , 
much  prized  by  the  women.  They  are  worn  by  both  sexes,  | 
and  a wealthy  person  will  wear  two  or  more,  one  above  the  i 
other.  Some  of  the  designs  are  strikingly  beautiful,  and  com- 
pare favorably  with  the  best  heraldic  designs  of  mediaeval 
times.  Large  round  ornaments  made  of  a network  of  vari-  j 
colored  beads  usually  pend  from  the  women’s  ears,  and  both  j 
sexes  wear  elaborate  necklaces  of  blue  and  white  beads. 
Bracelets  and  anklets  woven  in  bands  are  greatly  prized.” 

Huichol  dwellings  are  of  stone,  circular  and  thatch-covered. 

A house  contains  but  one  room,  the  door  of  which  is  never 
closed.  The  entrance  is  low,  small,  and  recalls  that  of  an 
Esquimaux  igloo,  which  the  house  resembles.  A hole  is  al-  ; 
ways  pierced  in  the  facade,  above  the  door,  and  a correspond- 
ing one  in  the  rear;  through  these  the  house  breathes.  God- 


Customs . 


THE  CORA  INDIANS  25.  Route.  95 


houses,  usually  rectangular,  are  notable  for  the  number  of 
symbolic  articles  found  therein.  The  idols  are  kept  in  sacred 
caves  in  the  hills. 

The  native  is  musical  and  he  expresses  the  sentiment  with 
considerable  skill.  Reed  flutes,  with  ornamentation  similar 
to  that  of  a rattle-snake’s  tail,  are  popular.  The  Huichol  drum 
is  a curious  instrument,  hollowed  from  an  oak  log,  covered  at 
one  end  with  a deer-skin  and  placed  on  three  rude  legs.  It 
always  stands  above  a disc  of  solidified  volcanic  ash,  imbedded 
in  the  floor,  to  impart  a sonorous  sound.  The  Shameni  (head 
priests)  beat  it  with  the  palm  of  the  hand  (after  the  Japanese 
custom),  giving  one  long  beat  with  the  right  hand  and  two 
quick  beats  with  the  left.  A musical  bow,  similar  to  that  of 
the  Coras,  is  sometimes  found  in  the  temples. 

The  votive  bowls  and  drinking  gourds  are  very  desirable 
curios.  They  are  painted  inside,  in  red  or  green,  and  when 
intended  as  a sacrifice  to  the  tutelary  deity  are  adorned  with 
beads  of  various  colors.  These  are  attached  with  beeswax, 
singly  or  in  strings,  and  form  coils,  rolls,  human  figures  and 
other  designs.  The  entire  inner  surface  of  a wooden  bowl  is 
sometimes  covered  with  wax  and  unique  and  intricate  bead 
designs.  (The  collector  is  advised  that  such  souvenirs  should 
be  kept  in  a cool  place,  as  heat  melts  the  wax  and  destroys  the 
design.) 

The  Huicholes  practise  the  curious  Hikuli  cult,  and  they 
make  long  and  ceremonious  pilgrimages  to  Real  de  Catorce 
(p.  16),  and  elsewhere,  to  obtain  the  singular  little  Echino- 
cactus.  The  journey  consumes  43  days  and  each  seeker  carries 
a double  water  gourd  of  a form  much  in  vogue  among  the 
Japanese.  Hikuli  possesses  many  curious  properties,  some  of 
them  highly  medicinal  (comp.  p.  93). 

The  blankets  and  ornaments  made  by  the  Huicholes  and 
Coras  are  always  valuable  souvenirs,  as  the  colors  are  attract- 
ive and  fast  and  the  material  wears  like  iron. 

(For  further  information  regarding  these  and  other  Indian 
tribes  of  the  locality  consult  Unknown  Mexico , by  Carl  Lum- 
holtz.) 

Hard  by  the  Huichol  pueblos  (towns)  are  several  Cora  vil- 
lages. These  Indians,  a rapidly  diminishing  tribe  of  which 
there  are  only  about  2,500  left,  call  themselves  Nayariti  or 
Nayari , and  in  speech,  religion  and  customs  are  akin  to  the 
Huicholes,  whom  they  call  Hashi  — crocodiles.  Near  one  of 
their  poblaciones  is  a deep  volcanic  lake  which  they  believe  is 
the  remnant  of  the  ularge  flood  ” of  which  they  have  a tradi- 
tion. The  Coras  are  the  most  interesting  of  all  the  tribes 
hereabout.  They  say  they  originated  in  the  East  and  that 
their  forefathers  were  big  people  with  broad,  handsome  faces 
and  long  hair.  Their  language  is  guttural,  though  musical. 
Many  of  them  wear  slight  beards,  mostly  on  the  chin,  and  in 


96  Route  25. 


TEPECAXO  INDIANS 


Tres  Marias 


the  form  of  an  “imperial  ” or  goatee.  In  this,  and  in  feature, 
they  strongly  resemble  the  Koreans.  Were  they  white  they 
would  pass  unnoted  in  any  Anglo-Saxon  crowd.  The  foreigner 
finds  difficulty  in  believing  them  Indios.  They  consider 
themselves  superior  to  adjacent  tribes  and  entertain  a strong 
dislike  to  being  confounded  with  their  neighbors. 

The  Coras  marry  when  about  15;  the  parents  arrange  the 
match.  Although  they  live  in  houses  with  no  ventilation,  and 
suffer  greatly  from  scorpions,  colds  and  malaria,  they  attain 
remarkable  longevity.  In  contradistinction  to  the  usual 
Indian  custom,  the  women  age  late  in  life.  Unlike  the  Tara- 
humares,  the  Coras  possess  but  little  endurance. 

A noteworthy  home  industry  is  the  weaving  of  bags  and 
pouches,  similar  to  those  of  the  Huicholes,  in  many  beautiful 
designs.  The  highly  decorated  articles  make  attractive  sou- 
venirs, which  the  traveller  will  sometimes  find  in  the  small 
antique  shops  in  Tepic  City.  The  Catholic  friars  have  estab- 
lished missions  among  these  Indians,  and  they  are  devout 
Christians  until  they  get  off  among  the  hills,  where  they  wor- 
ship their  tutelary  gods  at  secret  shrines.  Their  chief  divinity 
is  the  Morning  Star  — Chulavete.  The  setting  sun  is  worshipped 
by  both  Coras  and  Huicholes.  Standing  on  the  mesa  (table- 
land) de  Nayarit,  above  the  Cora  pueblos , is  a huge  idol  of 
the  setting  sun  “ looking  toward  Mexico.”  Dead  Coras  are  laid 
away  in  caves. 

The  Coras  are  fond  of  fishing  and  they  catch  cray-fish  and 
others  with  a kind  of  net  made  of  cotton  thread.  They  dive 
to  the  bottom  of  a stream  and  crawl  along  among  the  rocks 
holding  the  net  wide  open  with  their  elbows. 

Near  the  mining-town  of  Bolahos  (pop.  1,500),  in  the  Huichol 
country,  lying  in  the  Valley  of  the  Mezquitic  (Aztec  — among 
mesquite  trees),  is  a famous  hot  spring,  Agua-Caliente,  which 
bursts  from  the  bank  of  an  arroyo  at  the  foot  of  an  almost  per- 
pendicular rock,  about  1,000  ft.  high.  For  a century  or  more 
these  sulphur  springs  have  enjoyed  local  fame  for  their  cur- 
ative powers.  They  have  been  dammed  in,  and  a few  rough 
houses  have  been  erected  near  by  for  the  patients  who  come 
in  the  dry  season  (Jan.-April).  The  water  is  very  clear  but 
leaves  a yellow  sediment.  The  perspiration  which  it  induces 
is  still  further  increased  by  drinking  the  hot  water.  The  heat 
is  appalling;  some  persons  faint  in  the  baths  trying  to  be- 
come accustomed  to  the  high  temperature.  Baths  are  taken 
twice  daily.  Certain  diseases  are  said  to  be  curable  in  nine 
days. 

Near  by  is  a small  Indian  pueblo  of  the  Tepecano  Indios , 
a tribe  allied  to  the  Huicholes. 

Opposite  the  Port  of  San  Bias  (referred  to  at  p.  91),  in  the 
Pacific  Ocean,  are  four  small  islands  known  as  Las  Tres  Marias 
(the  three  Marys),  Maria  Madre,  Magdalena , Cleofas  and 


Islands . 


TRES  MARIAS 


25,  Route.  97 


San  Juanito,  of  which  the  island  of  Maria  Madre  has  been 
set  apart  as  a penal  colony  and  is  now  the  “ Botany  Bay  ” of 
the  Mexico  City  thieves.  The  island  is  about  16  kilom.  long 
by  6 kilom.  wide,  and  contains  at  present  over  two  thousand 
pickpockets  and  sneak  thieves.  A hundred  soldiers  act  as 
guards,  and  the  convicts  are  obliged  to  work  in  the  salt-pit 
while  expiating  their  crimes.  Sentences  range  from  one  to 
five  years. 


IV.  CENTRAL  MEXICO, 


26.  From  Piedras  Negras  ( Eagle  Pass , Texas)  via 


Torreon  to  Durango 98 

From  Monclova  to  Cuatro  Cienegas,  99. 

27.  Durango  City 100 

From  Durango  to  Tepehuan^s,  101.  — Durango  State,  102. 

— Cotton,  102.  — The  Iron  Mountain,  103.  — Lerdo, 

104. 


28.  From  (Laredo,  Monterey,  Saltillo)  San  Luis  Potosi 
via  Gonzalez  Junction  and  Queretaro  to  Mexico  City  104 

Dolores  Hidalgo.  104.  — San  Miguel  de  Allende,  105. — 
Gonzalez  Junction,  107. 

29.  From  Gonzalez  Junction  via  Celaya  and  Salvatierra 
to  Acambaro  (thence  to  Morelia,  Patzcuaro  and 


Uruapan) 108 

30.  Queretaro 109 


History  and  character  of  the  city,  110. — Opals,  110. — The 
Aqueduct,  116. — Excursion  to  San  Pedro  de  la  Canada, 

118. — To  the  Fabrica.de  Hercules,  118. — To  Pueblito, 

118. — El  Cerro  de  las  Campanas,  119. — State  of  Quer6- 
taro,  119. 

31.  From  (Ciudad  Juarez,  Chihuahua,  Torreon,  Zaca- 

tecas) Aguascalientes  via  Leon,  Silao,  Irapuato,  Ce- 
laya and  Queretaro  to  Mexico  City 122 

San  Juan  delos  Lagos,  123. — Leon,  124. — Silao,  126. — Ira- 
puato, 126. — Salamanca,  127. — Celaya.  127. — Eduardo 
de  Tresguerras,  12S. — Maize.  133. — Tula,  134. — From 
Tula  to  Pachuca,  135. — El  Tajo  de  Nochistongo,  135. — 
Teoloyucan  and  the  Church  of  Tepozotlan,  136. 

32.  From  Silao  to  Guanajuato 137 

Guanajuato,  137.  — State  of  Guanajuato,  145. 


26.  From  Piedras  Negras  ( Eagle  Pass . Texas)  via 
Torreon  to  Durango  (Eagle  Pass  Route). 

870  Kil6melro8  (547  M.),  1 express  train  daily  in  23  hrs.  For  fares  see 
p.  xxxi.  Buffet  service.  The  customs  formalities,  luggage,  quarantine  and 
tax  regulations  are  like  those  referred  to  at  p.  1,  Route  1.  Money  (to  the 
amount  of  $200  Mexican)  can  be  exchanged  in  the  ticket  office  on  either 
side  of  the  river.  Connections  are  made  at  Monterey  (via  Reata)  for  all 
points  on  the  National  Railways  of  Mexico,  which  operate  the  Mex. 
International  Rly.  Eagle  Pass  uses  Central  Standard  time,  which  is 
1 hour  faster  than  Mexican  time.  Put  watches  back  1 hour. 

Eagle  Pass,  Texas,  on  the  Rio  Grande  del  Norte , is  reached 
from  San  Antonio  (Texas)  via  Spofford  Junction  (35  M.)  over 


PIEDRAS  NEGRAS  26.  Route . 99 

the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad,  which  also  connects  with  El 
Paso , 454  M.  to  the  N.-W.  Laredo  lies  due  S. 

Piedras  Negras  (formerly  Ciudad  Porfirio  Diaz),  on  the 
Mexican  side  (State  of  Coahuila)  of  the  river,  is  one  of  four 
gateways  of  N.-E.  Mexico.  The  environing  country  is  similar 
to  that  about  Laredo , p.  2. 

The  railway  traverses  a somewhat  arid  region.  What  little 
prosperity  the  country  enjoys  is  mainly  due  to  cattle-raising, 
albeit  further  down  the  line,  in  the  vicinity  of  Torreon,  con- 
siderable cotton  is  produced.  Until  a few  decades  ago,  and 
from  the  remotest  antiquity,  the  land  was  the  roaming-ground 
of  hordes  of  wild  Indians,  prominent  among  them  the  blood- 
thirsty and  dreaded  Apaches,  who  came  southward  to  winter  in 
the  balmy  Mex.  climate.  They  have  now  disappeared  and  their 
descendants  are  so  Mexicanized  as  to  be  almost  indistinguish- 
able from  the  present  inhabitants.  Flocks  of  sheep  and  goats 
tended  by  shepherds,  and  bunches  of  half-wild  cattle  guarded 
by  unkempt,  bepistoled  vaqueros,  are  the  only  enlivening  scenes 
in  the  landscape.  We  pass  many  unimportant  stations.  As  we 
penetrate  deeper  into  Mexico  many  species  of  cacti  sprinkle 
the  plains  and  hillsides,  and  the  villages  become  less  hybrid 
and  more  Mexican.  Many  miles  of  the  sunburned  plains  are 
given  over  to  hovering  waves  of  shimmering  heat  and  to  a 
lonely  melancholy,  and  are  inhabited  only  by  prairie-dogs, 
coyotes  and  similar  animal  life. 

72  M.  Sabinas,  point  of  departure  for  towns  on  the  branch 
line  ( Ramal  de  Rosita  a Sabinas)  which  runs  hence  to  10  M. 
Rosita.  89  M.  Barroteran,  point  of  departure  for  the  branch 
line  ( Ramal  Carbonifera  de  Coahuila,  operated  by  the  Nat. 
Rlys.  of  Mex.),  which  runs  to  25  M.  Muzquiz. 

148  M.  Monclova  lies  in  the  midst  of  a region  which  requires 
only  water  to  make  of  it  a tropical  hortus.  The  altitude  and 
the  all-vivifying  sun  are  adjusted  for  the  bounteous  produc- 
tion of  plant  life,  and  the  fruit  which  grows  in  the  vicinity  is 
celebrated  for  its  fine  quality.  The  vast  State  of  Coahuila,  in 
which  it  lies,  was  a frequent  bone  of  contention  between  the 
early  settlers  in  Texas  and  the  Mexican  Government,  and 
to-day  there  is  not  lacking  a little  covert  hostility  between  the 
settlers  on  the  opposite  sides  of  the  muddy  Rio  Grande. 

A Branch  Railway  ( Ramal  de  Cuatro  Cienegas),  operated  by  the  Nat. 
Rlys.  of  Mex.,  runs  westward  from  Monclova  to  42  M.  Cuatro  Cienegas. 
The  intervening  country  is  uninteresting. 

The  fine  blue-peaked  hills  which  mark  the  horizon  as  we 
proceed  southward  are  the  outlying  spurs  of  the  splendid 
Sierra  Madre  Range  — that  stupendous  prolongation  of 
the  Central  American  Cordillera  which  dips  at  the  Isthmus 
of  Tehuantepec,  then  rises  to  traverse  the  Mexican  Republic 
from  Chiapas  on  the  south  to  distant  Sonora  on  the  north. 
The  slope  of  the  line  is  steadily  upward.  The  desolate-look- 


100  Route  27. 


DURANGO  CITY 


ing  plateaus  are  only  relieved  by  the  many  species  of  cactus 
which  thrive  and  mature  on  the  vast  desert  reaches. 

211  M.  Reata,  point  of  departure  for  Monterey , 72  M.  dis- 
tant (comp.  p.  5).  We  ascend  through  a desolate  hill-dis- 
trict over  slopes  strewn  with  the  debris  washed  down  from 
their  sides.  Almost  every  little  town  through  which  we  pass 
has  a tiny  church  dedicated  to  the  tutelar  of  the  place.  As  a 
rule  these  churches  do  not  compare  with  the  gorgeous  temples 
of  central  and  southern  Mexico.  From  Reata  the  line  curves 
toward  the  W.  and  is  flanked  for  many  miles  by  a line  of  blue 
hills  visible  on  the  1.  Near  Torreon  we  enter  a region  called 
the  Laguna  district , celebrated  for  its  bumper  cotton  crops. 

350  M.  Homos , point  of  departure  for  the  branch  line  ( Ramal 
de  San  Pedro)  which  runs  toward  the  north  for  14  M.  to  San 
Pedro;  and  for  the  Ferrocarril  de  Homos  which  runs  southward 
27  M.  to  Viesca. 

383  M.  Torreon,  described  at  p.  35,  a thriving,  bustling  little 
city  of  much  energy  and  many  nationalities. 

We  soon  enter  the  State  of  Durango,  celebrated  for  its  phe- 
nomenally rich  mines,  its  huge  mountain  of  almost  pure  iron 
and  its  splendid  climate.  540  M.  Durango , see  below. 


27.  Durango  City. 

Arrival.  The  railway  station  (PI.  C,  2)  is  within  a few  min.  walk  of 
the  Plaza  Principal  (PI.  C,  4) , and  the  chief  hotels. 

Tram-cars  meet  trains.  Ford  jitneys,  S2.50  an  hr.;  SI. 50  h hr.  or  less. 

Hotels  (comp,  xlvii).  Hotel  Paris  y San  Carlos;  H.  International;  Hotel 
Hidalgo;  Hotel  Estacidn.  Rooms  from  $2  up  per  day;  rooms  with  board 
(Am.  PI.),  from  S4.  — Dark,  damp  rooms,  and  rooms  on  the  ground  floor 
should  be  avoided. 

Banks.  The  Banco  Nacional  de  Mexico  is  the  correspondent  of  the 
Mexico  Citv  Banking  Corporation.  Banque  Francaise  du  Mexique. 

A Branch  Railway  Line  (the  eventual  terminus  of  which  is  Mazatldn) 
runs  hence  to  (135  K.)  El  Salto.  Consult  the  Gufa  of  the  Ferrocarriles 
Nacionales  de  Mexico.  — The  Branch  Line  to  Tepehuan§s  is  referred  to  at 

p.  101. 

Durango  City,  capital  of  the  State  of  the  same  name, 
pop.  40,000  (6,207  ft.  above  sea -level),  on  the  margin  of  the 
Rio  Tunal  (Indian  fig-tree),  which  rises  to  the  N.-E.  of  the 
city,  stands  on  a level  plain  formed  by  the  foothills  of  the 
Sierra  Madre  and  derives  its  name  from  the  old  Spanish  city 
(in  the  Basque  Province)  of  Durango.  It  is  often  referred  to 
as  the  11  town  of  sunshine  ” because  of  its  almost  matchless 
climate.  The  region  is  a sort  of  open  air  sanitarium  in  the  cen- 
tre of  an  amazingly  rich  and  but  partially  developed  country 
where  the  invalid  may  regain  health  and  vigor  merely  by 
remaining  out  of  doors;  and  the  miner,  the  ranchman,  the 
agriculturist,  the  hunter,  and  the  pleasure-seeker  .may  find 
profit  and  contentment  in  the  practically  unlimited  resources 


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DURANGO  CITY 


27.  Route.  101 


of  the  fields,  the  forest  and  the  streams  roundabout.  Excel- 
lent duck  shooting  and  a variety  of  large  game  (comp.  p.  102) 
are  to  be  had  within  a few  hours  of  the  hotel.  Hunting-trips 
can  be  planned  to  the  best  advantage  with  the  aid  of  the  hotel 
manager.  Suitable  ammunition  is  not  always  obtainable  in 
Durango  City. 

Durango  is  celebrated  in  Mexican  annals  as  the  birthplace 
of  the  statesman  Don  Francisco  Zarco , declared  by  Congress 
(in  1869)  a Benemerito  de  la  Patria. 

On  the  outskirts  of  the  city  is  a fine  mineral  spring  hold- 
ing a large  quantity  of  iron  in  solution.  The  great  Iron  Moun- 
tain is  one  of  the  unique  attractions  of  the  place. 

The  Cathedral  (PI.  C,  3),  a massive  structure  in  the  Tuscan 
style,  begun  in  1695  and  completed  in  1750,  is  one  of  the  most 
interesting  buildings  in  the  city.  It  is  surmounted  by  two 
square  towers  and  flanked  by  a narrow,  stone-flagged  atrium 
separated  from  the  street  by  a tall  iron  railing.  The  interior, 
250  ft.  long  by  153  ft.  high,  is  elaborately  decorated.  The  pic- 
tures call  for  no  special  mention. 

El  Palacio  de  Gobierno  (PI.  C,  4),  in  the  6th  Calle  Prin- 
cipal, is  one  of  the  largest  edifices.  Next  in  importance  is  the 
Palacio  Municipal  (PI.  C,  4),  facing  the  Plaza  de  la  Consti- 
tution. El  Instituto  Juarez,  in  the  2d  C.  de  la  Consti- 
tution; the  Casino,  the  Mercado,  the  Alameda  and  the 
Plaza  de  Toros  differ  in  no  wise  from  those  of  other  Mexican 
towns.  The  old  Mint  dates  from  1811. 

The  Plaza  Principal  (PI.  C,  4),  near  the  centre  of  the  town, 
contains  an  attractive  garden.  The  river-bank  affords  many 
pleasant  walks.  The  cotton-mills  represent  one  of  the  largest 
of  the  city  industries.  Tram-cars  will  convey  the  traveller  to 
all  of  the  suburban  towns. 

A railway  ( Ramal  de  Guanacevi , operated  by  the  National  Rlys.  of 
Mex.)  runs  hence  in  a north-westerly  direction  through  59  K.  Guatimape , 
103  K.  Santiago  Papasquiaro  to  135  K.  Tepehuanes. 

History.  When  the  Spaniards  reached  Mexico  the  district 
now  called  Durango  was  peopled  by  a number  of  nomad 
tribes  of  savages.  In  1532,  Nuno  de  Guzman , Governor  of 
Nueva  Galicia,  sent  out  from  Guadalajara  an  exploring  expedi- 
tion under  Cristobal  Onate  and  Jose  Angulo;  the  object  being  to 
discover  new  territory  and  subjugate  the  inhabitants.  The 
party  reached  Durango , then  called  Guadiana,  late  in  the  same 
year.  Finding  the  land  strewn  with  sand  instead  of  silver  they 
returned  to  Guadalajara,  and  it  was  not  until  20  years  later 
(1552)  that  determined  efforts  to  conquer  and  colonize  the  new 
territory  were  made.  An  expedition  was  fitted  out  and  led  by 
Gxnes  Vasquez  del  Mercado , a rich,  credulous,  daring,  and  vain- 
glorious man.  From  some  wandering  Indians  he  learned  that 
a mountain  of  silver  lay  within  the  Durango  district  and  he 


102  Route  27. 


DURANGO  STATE 


Cotton. 


determined  to  discover  it.  Mercado  located  the  mountain,  but 
instead  of  silver  it  proved  to  be  iron.  On  the  return  journey, 
the  party  was  ambushed  at  Sombrerete  and  those  who  escaped 
were  badly  wounded.  Mercado  died  before  reaching  Guadala- 
jara and  was  buried  in  the  village  of  Juchilpa. 

The  expedition  which  left  Zacatecas  in  1554,  under  Cap - 
tain  Francisco  de  Ibarra , located  the  vast  mineral  district  of 
Fresnillo  (Zacatecas),  and  established  the  towns  of  Villa  de 
Nombre  de  Dios,  Sombrerete,  Chalchihuites  and  Nieves  ; all  min- 
ing towns  of  note.  The  localities  proved  so  rich  in  silver  that 
many  Spanish  adventurers  flocked  thither;  the  Indians  were 
soon  subjugated  and  the  territory  was  added  to  El  Reino  de 
Nueva  Vizcaya.  In  1563  Ibarra  moved  on  to  the  Valley  of 
Guadiana  and  established  the  town  of  Durango,  on  July  8. 

Durango,  one  of  the  Mexican  Estados  del  Centro,  a large, 
rich  state  with  370,294  inhab.  and  an  area  of  98,470  sqr.  kilom., 
north  of  the  torrid  zone,  on  the  slopes  of  the  Sierra  Madre 
Mountains,  in  a fine  game  district,  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by 
Chihuahua,  on  the  E.  and  S.-E.  by  Coahuila , on  the  S.  by 
Zacatecas  and  the  Territorio  de  Tepic  and  on  the  W.  by  Sina- 
loa. It  is  divided  into  13  Political  Distritos  and  subdivided 
into  49  municipalidades.  The  capital  is  Durango  City. 

The  state  is  very  mountainous.  The  Sierra  Madre  range 
crosses  the  W.  district  and  its  path  is  marked  by  a series  of 
rugged  peaks  rising  from  7,000  to  10,000  ft.  above  sea -level, 
and  by  deep  barrancas,  fine  forest,  verdurous  glens  and  wide 
valleys.  Several  lines  of  foothills  stretch  out  from  the  mother 
range  and  give  a wild  and  broken  character  to  certain  of  the 
sections.  Grizzly  bears,  wolves,  coyotes,  deer,  black  and  cin- 
namon bear  and  wild  turkeys  range  the  higher  sierras,  and  wild- 
geese,  ducks  and  allied  birds  are  found  in  the  lowlands.  Certain 
districts  of  the  state  are  fine  natural  game  preserves  — the 
delight  of  the  occasional  hunter  who  strays  therein. 

The  list  of  the  Flora  and  Fauna  is  incomplete.  The  former 
embraces  40  mammals,  70  birds,  13  reptiles,  7 batrachians 
and  a large  number  of  insects,  prominent  among  them  the 
alacran  (p.  93).  The  floral  varieties  are  numerous  and  count 
among  them  80  trees,  50  fruits,  13  textiles,  12  tanning  plants, 
12  oleaginous  plants,  11  dye  plants,  10  forage  plants,  4 poison- 
ous and  aromatic  plants,  20  gums  and  resins,  30  medicinal 
plants,  and  many  ornamental  flowers  and  shrubs.  Owing 
to  topographical  conditions  the  products  of  several  zones  are 
successfully  cultivated.  Cotton  is  one  of  the  great  staples. 

Cotton,  from  the  Arabic  Alqoton  (Spanish  Algodon ),  an  indigenous 
plant , was  found  in  Mexico  by  the  Spaniards.  Indians  clothed  with  cotton 
garments  were  first  seen  by  Columbus,  near  the  mainland,  off  the  coast 
of  Yucatan,  in  1502,  nearly  two  thousand  years  after  the  first  mention  of 
cotton  fibre  by  Herodotus.  Traditions  are  not  lacking  as  to  the  ancient 
use  of  cotton  by  the  Toltecs  and  the  Aztecs,  the  date  even  of  the  adoption 
by  the  latter  tribe  of  cotton  garments  in  place  of  those  of  skin,  being 


IRON  MOUNTAIN  OF  DURANGO  27.  Rte.  103 


noted  in  their  annals.  As  to  the  Toltecs,  it  was  entered  in  their  sacred 
book  that  Quetzalcoatl,  god  of  the  air,  grew  cotton  of  all  colors  in  his 
gardens,  and  taught  them  its  many  uses.  Cotton  garments,  quilted 
armor  of  cotton,  and  beautiful  mantles  were  woven  by  the  Indians  of  the 
plateaus  from  this  fibre.  The  breast-plates  of  cotton  were  proof  against 
Indian  arrows,  and  were  finally  adopted  by  the  conquerors  themselves, 
while  many  articles  of  apparel  were  often  woven  of  a fineness  and  almost 
the  lustre  of  silk.  In  cotton  and  cacao  seeds  the  inhabitants  of  the  low- 
lands, such  as  had  not  gold  and  precious  stones,  paid  their  tribute  to  the 
A&tec  rulers.  Throughout  the  Republic  there  were,  as  at  the  present  day, 
primitive  looms,  and  the  manufacture  of  cotton  goods  was  among  the 
first  industries,  in  point  of  time,  as  it  is  now  in  importance,  in  that  coun- 
try. (F.  A.  Ober,  Travels  in  Mexico .) 

In  the  “Laguna”  country,  which  lies  partly  in  Durango  and  partly  in 
Coahuila,  cotton  is  perennial,  and  does  not  require  to  be  planted  oftener 
than  once  in  ten  years.  This  district,  containing  about  1,200,000  acres, 
is  extraordinarily  fertile,  and  produces  from  40  to  80  million  kilos  a year, 
valued  at  from  12  to  17  millions  of  pesos. 


The  Climate  is  as  varied  as  the  elevations,  and  is  cold  in 
the  Sierra  Madre  or  western  region,  moderate  in  the  foothills 
and  upland  plains,  and  hot  on  the  lowlands. 

The  River  System  is  meagre  and  irrigation  is  necessary. 
The  Nazas,  the  largest  and  most  important  river  of  the  state, 
known  as  the  Nile  of  Durango , rises  on  the  E.  slope  of  the 
Sierra  Madre  in  the  Distrito  de  Papasquiaro,  and  empties 
into  Habas  Lake  after  a course  of  600  kilom.  In  the  early 
spring  when  the  heavy  rains  on  the  mountains  form  myriad 
cascades  and  rivulets,  the  Nazas  rises,  and  its  waters,  by  being 
led  away  through  a vast  system  of  canals  hundreds  of  miles  in 
length,  irrigate  and  enrich  the  surrounding  country  and  pro- 
duce the  bumper  crops  for  which  the  district  is  noted.  The 
most  important  agricultural  region  is  included  in  the  partidos 
of  Mapimi , Durango , San  Juan  del  Rio,  and  Papasquiaro.  Corn, 
wheat,  tobacco,  fruits,  sugar-cane,  barley  and  leguminous 
plants  are  among  the  products.  The  grapes  of  Lerdo  and  Cuen- 
came  are  celebrated.  More  than  one  million  head  of  stock  roam 
the  broad  plains  and  valleys. 

The  mountains  are  highly  mineralized  and  mining  is  one  of 
the  great  resources.  The  total  mining  production  of  the  state 
is  estimated  to  represent  about  $15,000,000;  the  number  of 
mines  in  operation  is  about  120.  The  districts  of  greatest 
mining  activity  are  Mapimi,  Cuencame,  Papasquiaro,  San 
Juan  del  Rio,  Durango  and  N ombre  de  Dios.  Iron,  gold,  silver, 
sulphur,  rubies  and  other  valuable  deposits  exist.  The  state 
possesses  a somewhat  unique  attraction  in  the  form  of  a moun- 
tain of  iron  ore,  — one  of  the  greatest  natural  curiosities  in 
Mexico,  — called  El  Cerro  del  Mercado , and  with  which  the 
early  history  of  the  state  is  closely  associated. 


“The  Iron  Mountain,  known  as  El  Cerro  del  Mercado  (PI.  D,  1),  is  a hel- 
met-shaped hill  of  colossal  proportions  rising  some  700  ft.  above  the  sur- 
rounding plain  and  composed  almost  totally  of  iron  in  different  stages  of 
oxidization.  It  was  long  supposed  to  be  unique,  but  Lower  California 


104  Rte.  28.  SAN  LUIS  POTOSl  TO  MEXICO  CITY 


(comp.  p.  84)  and  Sweden  possess  similar  deposits.  The  ore  is  hematite, 
of  a specific  gravity  of  4.658;  each  cubic  foot  weighing  approximately  291  £ 
lbs.  It  is  from  60  to  67  per  cent  pure,  and  the  estimated  -weight  of  the 
mass  is  600,000,000  tons,  worth  approximately,  5,000  millions  of  dollars, 
or  seven  times  the  value  of  all  the  gold  and  silver  coined  in  Mexico  from 
1690  to  1803. 

“Geologists  believe  the  deposit  was  formed  by  the  same  process  that 
made  the  Hudson  River  Palisades,  near  New  York  City.  A big  opening 
was  made  in  the  earth’s  crust  and  this  enormous  mass  of  iron  was  thrust 
up  through  the  rift  and  piled  high  above  the  surrounding  plain.  The  hill 
is  one  of  the  dikes  that  are  supposed  to  be  the  result  of  earthquake  action. 
Cracks  or  fissures  have  opened  from  the  surface  deep  into  the  earth  and 
through  these  fissures  molten  matter  has  been  forced  to  the  outer  air, 
where  it  has  hardened.” 

No  one  knows  how  deep  this  iron  mass  (which  is  nearly  a mile  in  length 
and  perhaps  2,000  ft.  wide)  penetrates  below  the  surface.  An  American 
company  has  erected  a smelter  hard  by,  and  the  product  is  to  be  utilized. 

Lerdo,  the  second  city  of  importance  in  the  state,  is  reached 
by  tram-car  from  Torreon  and  is  mentioned  at  p.  35.  Inde, 
316  M.  from  Durango  City,  is  celebrated  for  its  rich  gold,  silver 
and  copper  mines.  The  Guanacevi  mining  district,  60  M.  from 
Tepehuanes  (by  a stage-road  via  Zape),  is  also  noted  for  its 
vast  mineral  resources. 

28.  From  ( Laredo , Monterey , Saltillo)  San  Luis  Potosi 
via  Gonzalez  Junction  and  Queretaro  to  Mexico 
City. 

San  Luis  Potosi , see  p.  17.  The  line  traverses  a flat  valley 
with  mesquite , half-wild  cattle  and  haciendas  as  the  chief  fea- 
tures of  the  landscape.  We  pass  the  unimportant  stations  of 
495  M.  Jesus  Maria;  501  M.  Villa  Reyes;  511  M.  Jaral  del  \ 
Berrio;  518  M.  Cartagena.  We  enter  the  State  of  Guanajuato  j 
(p.  145).  The  grade  slopes  upward,  and  as  the  train  winds 
through  broken  country  to  the  upper  levels,  we  get  fine 
views  of  wide  valleys  delimned  by  blue-peaked  hills. 

52S  M.  San  Felipe , an  impoverished  town  some  distance 
from  the  rly.  line  and  reached  by  the  diminutive  cars  of  the  ! 
Tranvia  de  San  Felipe , which  meet  trains.  We  enter  a hilly  | 
and  stony  region  enlivened  only  by  an  occasional  white-  1 
walled  farm-house,  by  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats,  and  by  several  | 
varieties  of  cacti.  540  M.  Obregon.  The  country  is  cut  up  by  I 
many  arroyos;  some  of  them  marked  by  erratic  boulders 
pushed  down  from  the  hills  by  torrents  during  the  rainy  sea-  j 
son.  Up-grade  and  many  curves.  559  M.  Rincon.  The  poor 
town  is  far  to  the  1.  of  the  line,  and  is  reached  by  a tramway. 
For  time  of  trains  which  leave  hence  for  Pozos  ( Ramal  de  la  1 
Paz , Nat.  Rlys.  of  Mex.)  consult  the  Guia  Oficial. 

562  M.  Dolores  Hidalgo,  birthplace  of  the  Cura  Miguel 
Hidalgo  y Costilla , father  of  Mexican  Independence,  and  of 
the  revolutionary  heroes  Abasolo  and  Balleza.  A small  tram- 
car  runs  from  the  station  to  the  town,  about  2 M.  distant  on 


SAN  MIGUEL  DE  ALLENDE  28.  Rte.  105 


the  r.  The  town  (pop.  6,000)  lies  in  the  fertile  valley  of  the 
Rio  Laja,  surrounded  by  a rich  agricultural  country,  and  was 
founded  in  1590  by  explorers  sent  out  by  the  Viceroy  Luis 
de  Velasco.  Here  the  lion-hearted  Hidalgo  pursued  the  even 
tenor  of  his  early  life,  and  here,  when  Spanish  rule  in  Mexico 
had  become  intolerable,  he  uttered  his  famous  Grito  and 
lit  the  fire  of  patriotism  which  soon  flamed  over  the  entire 
country  and  eventually  secured  its  independence.  The  house 
in  which  he  lived  is  the  chief  “sight,”  and  it  is  preserved 
as  nearly  as  possible  in  the  same  condition  as  when  he 
dwelt  in  it.  It  contains  many  relics  and  personal  belongings 
(others  preserved  in  the  Museo  Nacional,  see  p.  298)  of  the 
intrepid  priest.  The  care-taker  is  a retired  army  officer.  Sev- 
eral thousand  pilgrims  visit  the  house  during  each  year  (no 
fees),  and  every  16th  of  September  a huge,  patriotic  fiesta  is 
celebrated. 

In  the  Jardin  Independencia  is  a fine  monument  to 
Hidalgo's  memory  — one  of  the  many  hundreds  erected 
throughout  Mexico.  Hard  by  is  the  Parochial  Church,  and 
a small  temple  of  the  Tercer  Orden  de  San  Francisco. 
The  National  Government  plans  to  beautify  Dolores  Hidalgo 
and  to  make  of  it  a sort  of  national  sanctuary. 

We  cross  a river  spanned  by  a steel  bridge.  571  M.  Tequis- 
quiapan.  We  cross  another  river.  573  M.  La  Petaca.  The 
river  flows  parallel  to  the  track,  on  the  r.  We  enter  a better- 
looking country,  with  many  trees  and  wide,  well-cultivated 
farms.  To  the  r.  is  visible  the  church  of  (578  M.)  Atotonilco. 
From  this  Santuario  de  Jesus  Nazareno,  Hidalgo  took  a picture 
of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe , placed  it  on  his  lance,  and  com- 
mencing his  campaign  against  the  Spaniards  declared  to  his 
followers  that  the  Virgin  should  be  their  patroness  in  the 
blessed  cause  of  Independence.  The  town  proper  is  a short 
walk  to  the  r. 

584  M.  San  Miguel  de  Allende,  known  as  S.  Miguel  and 
as  Allende  (218  M.  from  Mex.  City),  pop.  12,800  (6,000  ft.), 
capital  of  the  municipality  of  S.  M.  de  Allende  (State  of  Guana- 
juato), was  founded  in  1542  by  the  Franciscan  Fray  Juan  de 
San  Miguel , under  the  name  of  San  Miguel  el  Grande.  It  was 
officially  recognized  in  1560,  at  which  time,  during  the  reign 
of  the  Viceroy  Velasco  (p.  cxcv),  it  was  an  important  out- 
post in  the  Chichimec  territory.  It  derives  its  name  from  the 
revolutionary  patriot  Ignacio  Allende , who  was  born  here  (Jan. 
21,  1779)  in  a house  in  what  then  was  a little  lane  and  which 
is  now  known  as  Callejade  la  Cuna  de  Allende  (little  street  of 
the  cradle  of  Allende).  Above  the  door  of  the  house  is 
the  inscription  : Hie  natus  ubique  notus  (here  was  born  he 
who  was  widely  known).  The  town  sprang  into  prominence 
during  the  War  for  Independence  (1810-21).  Allende  was 
stationed  here  with  the  Queen’s  Regiment  when  the  Corregi - 


106  Rte.  28.  SAN  MIGUEL  DE  ALLENDE 


dor  a of  Queretaro  (p.  Ill)  sent  the  news,  on  the  night  of  Sept. 
13,  1810,  of  the  discovery  of  the  revolutionary  plot  in  which 
Allende  was  interested.  The  news-bearer,  Perez,  reached  the 
town  at  dawn  of  the  15th,  and  not  finding  Allende,  he  com- 
municated his  news  to  Don  Juan  Aldama,  who  proceeded  at 
once  to  Dolores  Hidalgo , warned  the  Cura  of  the  threatened 
danger  and  thus  hastened  the  famous  Grito  de  Dolores  and  the 
blow  for  independence.  Hidalgo  marched  at  once  on  San 
Miguel , where  he  was  joined  by  Allende  and  his  royalist  regi- 
ment. Allende  was  captured  and  executed  at  Chihuahua 
(p.  27)  within  the  year,  but  the  movement  started  against 
the  Spaniards  gained  adherents,  and  after  11  years  of  almost 
Continuous  fighting  the  Spanish  flag  was  lowered  from  the 
last  Iberian  stronghold  in  Mexico. 

The  town  lies  on  the  slope  of  the  Cerro  de  Montezuma,  over- 
looking the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Laja.  Near  the  summit  of 
the  cerro  is  a splendid  thermal  spring,  El  Chorro  (the  water- 
jet),  which  plunges  down  the  slope  and  irrigates  many  of  the 
fine  gardens  which  dot  the  town.  The  hillside  is  laid  out  in 
attractive  terraces,  sprinkled  with  parterres  of  flowers,  through 
which  wind  stone-flagged  paths  and  stairways.  The  bath- 
houses on  the  terrace  near  the  springs  command  a beautiful 
panorama  of  the  surrounding  country. 

“ The  town  [says  Mr.  Baxter]  is  noted  for  some  extraor- 
dinary monumental  architecture,  the  work  of  a contemporary 
architect  resident  in  the  place.  Ceferino  Gutierrez,  as  he  is 
called,  has  made  his  mark  upon  his  native  city  in  a way  that 
recalls  the  activity  of  Tresguerras  at  Celaya.  A poor  man  of 
pure  Indian  blood,  self-trained,  having  no  technical  knowledge 
as  a draughtsman,  he  imparted  his  ideas  to  his  workmen  by 
marking  off  his  working-drawings  with  a stick  in  the  sand. 

“ The  most  notable  work  is  the  new  facade  and  tower  of  the 
Church  of  San  Miguel,  the  parochial  temple  of  the  town, 
its  huge  aspiring  mass  a landmark  for  miles  around,  dominat- 
ing the  place  very  strangely  for  a Mexican  city.  It  is  extremely 
interesting  as  an  indigenous  notion  of  the  Gothic  — an  artist 
mind,  picturesquely  impressionable,  interpreting  for  itself 
the  Gothic  feeling  as  reminiscently  conveyed  at  second  hand 
by  illustrations  that  came  his  way.  It  might  be  called  ‘Goth- 
esque ' rather  than  Gothic,  for  it  is  not  Gothic  at  all  except 
in  superficial  suggestion.  The  work  is  illiterate,  of  course,  as 
might  be  looked  for.  But  with  all  its  crudeness,  and  even 
positive  badness,  it  has  a certain  artistic  character  — its  im- 
posing mass  imbued  with  an  undisciplined  sense  of  form  and 
an  untutored  gift  for  rich  expression.” 

“ Ceferino  Gutierrez  was  more  on  his  own  ground  in  designing  the 
stately  dome  for  the  Church  of  La  Concepcion,  originally  a part  of  the  con- 
vent of  that  name.  This  is  one  of  the  very  few  domes  in  Mexico  built  with 
a drum  of  two  stories,  and  is  the  most  successful  of  them  all.  An  enchant- 


GONZALEZ  JUNCTION  28.  Route.  107 


ingly  poetic  composition  is  the  view  of  this  dome  from  the  street  below, 
rising  grandly  above  the  massively  graceful  spires  of  the  solemn  dark 
cypresses  in  the  beautiful  old  garden  of  the  church-yard.” 

This  pseudo-Gothic  edifice  faces  the  terraced  plaza  near  the 
centre  of  the  town.  The  original  structure  was  erected  in  the 
18th  cent,  and  Gutierrez's  renovations  were  applied  in  1840. 
It  is  dedicated  to  San  Miguel , the  patron  saint.  The  compact, 
cylindrical  edifice,  with  its  spires,  is  very  striking,  and  was 
built,  according  to  the  Mexicans,  a todo  costo  (regardless  of 
cost).  The  central  spire  is  surmounted  by  a tall  cross;  the 
colored  glass  windows  are  modern  and  of  European  origin. 
There  are  no  pictures  of  note.  The  interior  of  the  ch.  is  some- 
what gloomy.  In  a little  receptacle  behind  the  altar  is  a 
crucifix  called  Sehor  de  la  Conquista  (Lord  of  the  Conquest), 
a much-venerated  relic.  Like  its  counterpart  in  the  Merida 
Cathedral  (p.  577),  it  is  supposed  to  have  come  over  with  the 
Conquistadores.  Beneath  the  main  altar  is  the  crypt,  wherein 
are  buried  some  distinguished  ecclesiastics  and  civilians. 

“ A picturesque  site  is  also  that  of  the  Oratorio  of  San 
Felipe  Neri,  built  in  1712.  The  adjoining  chapel  of  the  Santa 
Casa  de  Loreto , with  a tower-like  construction  of  superposed 
domes,  with  lanterns,  has  an  interior  resembling  the  camarin 
of  Tepozotlan  (p.  136),  but  its  intricate  splendor  has  been 
unspeakably  injured  by  the  customary  ignorant  ‘ restoration  * 
that  is  the  modern  curse  of  ecclesiastical  art  in  Mexico. 

“ This  Chapel  of  the  Holy  House  was  the  gift,  in  1733,  of 
Don  Manuel  Tomas  de  la  Canal  and  his  wife  Doha  Maria 
Heras  de  Flores , whose  palace  at  a corner  of  the  Plaza  Mayor  is 
a strikingly  large  and  imposing  example  of  an  aristocratic 
residence  of  the  old  days.  The  entrance  has  magnificent  doors 
of  carved  wood.”  The  portraits  of  these  patrons  of  the  chapel 
are  preserved  therein.  In  the  rear  of  this  chapel  is  a shrine 
in  which  are  the  bones  of  one  of  the  ch.  santos. 

Churches  of  minor  interest  in  San  Miguel  are  San  Fran- 
cisco, with  its  adjoining  monastery  building;  Nuestra  Sehora  de 
la  Soledad,  and  a number  of  small  churches  rich  in  microbes 
of  undoubted  antiquity. 

The  fine  hacienda  immediately  to  the  S.  of  San  Miguel 
is  that  of  Begoha,  from  which  the  (nondescript)  station,  590 
M.  Begoha , takes  its  name.  We  soon  enter  a hilly  country 
crossed  by  canons,  chief  of  which  is  the  Canon  de  la  Laja,  in 
a picturesque  setting.  The  distant  valleys  are  dotted  with 
small  hamlets.  The  lowlands  are  very  fertile  and  the  scenery 
is  sub-tropical.  605  M.  Chamacuero. 

608  M.  Gonzalez  Junction,  point  of  departure  for  trains 
on  the  branch  line  to  Acdmbaro  (thence  to  Morelia  and  Patz- 
cuaro)  via  Celaya,  see  Rte.  29,  p.  108. 

Trains  leave  from  the  same  station.  Rly.  restaurant,  meals  $1.  The 
traveller  may  sometimes  secure  a lodging  by  applying  to  the  manager. 


10S  Rte.  29.  GONZALEZ  JCT.  TO  ACAMBARO 


who  rents  certain  of  the  upstairs  rooms,  SI  for  the  night.  If  satisfactory 
arrangements  cannot  be  made,  one  can  usually  get  a room  ($1)  at  the 
Hotel  Guadalupe,  across  the  road,  to  the  S.-W.  of  the  station.  The  town  is 
poor  and  contains  nothing  of  interest. 

A branch  line  connecting  Gonzalez  with  Soria,  Salamanca 
and  Parral  also  leaves  from  this  junction. 

For  a continuation  of  our  journey  southward  see  p.  109. 


29.  From  Gonzalez  Junction  via  Celaya  and  Salva- 
tierra  to  Acambaro  (thence  to  Morelia,  Patzcuaro 
and  Uruapan ). 

55  M.  railway  — F.  Cs.  Nacionales  de  Mexico  (one  through  train  daily) 
in  2 hrs.  For  fare  see  p.  xxxi.  Consult  the  Guia  Oficial. 

Empalme  Gonzalez,  see  p.  107.  Our  line  leaves  the  main  line  and  trends 
across  a fairly  level,  cultivated  countrjT,  crossed  and  recrossed  by  streams 
and  irrigating-ditches.  Low  hills  mark  the  sky-line.  The  country  affords 
sustenance  for  the  few  small  villages  which  dot  it,  and  for  numerous 
flocks  of  goats.  The  stations  of,  1 M.  Soria , 4 M.  .San  Juan , 9 M.  Santa 
Rita  are  nondescript  in  character.  12  M.  Celaya.  comp.  p.  127.  We  cross 
the  Rio  Laja  on  a steel  bridge.  A number  of  white- walled  churches  dot 
the  hillsides.  15  M.  Tomayo,  amid  wide  cornfields.  We  enter  a broken 
country.  19  M.  Ojo  Seen  (dry  spring).  Hereabout  the  soil  is  of  a rich, 
black  loam,  almost  covered  with  small  cobble-stones.  High  hills  shut 
in  the  view  on  the  E.  Many  mesquite-trees  rise  from  among  the  tall  corn- 
stalks. Overlapping  ranges  of  blue-peaked  hills  cut  the  sky-line  on  the  1. 
and  some  tiny  lakelets  nestle  at  their  feet.  The  line  curves  to  the  E. 
and  traverses  a region  where  corn  is  the  great  staple.  21  M.  Cacalote 
siding.  The  valley  broadens,  with  hills  everywhere  on  the  horizon.  Far 
to  the  r.  the  spires  of  Salvatierra  are  visible.  The  line  twists  and  turns 
along  an  up-grade  among  hills  strewn  with  trachytic  rock,  indicative  of 
volcanic  activity  in  past  ages.  We  obtain  a commanding  view  of  Salva- 
tierra as  we  approach  the  town.  26  M.  Corral. 

35  M.  Salvatierra.  The  tower  and  dome  of  the  parochial  ch.  are 
copied  from  those  of  San  Francisco  at  Celaya.  The  town  lies  \ M.  distant 
from  the  station,  and  is  connected  therewith  by  a tranvia;  fare  5 c.  Agri- 
culture is  the  chief  industry  of  the  region. 

The  train  climbs  steadily  upward.  The  ruins  of  an  old  aqueduct  are 
visible  on  the  r.  — 41  M.  Guzman.  The  train  ascends  gradually  to  a higher 
level,  crossing  a rugged,  volcanic  country  dotted  with  many  species  of 
cacti  and  flowering  trees.  The  stones  which  have  been  forced  out  of  some 
near-by  volcano  in  times  past  have  been  utilized  in  the  construction  of 
many  fences,  which  here  cross  and  recross  the  land,  delimning  the  small 
holdings.  The  native  huts  are  most  primitive,  and  are  scarcely  superior 
to  those  of  the  stone  age.  45  M.  San  Agustin  siding.  The  line  intersects 
a range  of  hills  and  zig-zags  among  them,  occasionally  crossing  cultivated 
ftretenes  sprinkled  with  trees  in  bloom.  47  M.  San  Cristobal.  We  emerge 
on  a broad,  upland  plain  under  high  cultivation.  Beyond  are  blue  hills, 
and  behind  are  the  lower  reaches  dotted  by  warm  vaheys  48  M.  Man- 
zana.  51  M.  Betti,  in  a fine  pastoral  country.  The  line  curves  to  the  S. 
We  cross  the  Rio  Lerma  on  a steel  bridge.  The  railway  describes  a broad 
curve  to  the  E.  We  pass  the  siding  of  53  M.  Silva. 

55  M.  Acambaro.  Railway  Junction.  Restaurant;  meals  SI.  Passen- 
gers here  board  trains  on  the  Mexico,  Toluca  and  Morelia  branch  of  the 
National  Railway  for  the  above-named  places,  and  for  Patzcuaro , Urua- 
pan and  way  stations.  See  Route  37,  p.  191.  Trains  leave  from  the 
same  station.  The  town  lies  about  1 M.  distant.  Its  three  churches  are 
nondescript  in  character.  The  fine  fruit  offered  for  sale  at  the  rly.  sta- 
tion attests  the  proximity  of  the  tropics.  Certain  fruits  are  raised  at 
Acambaro , which  is  sheltered  by  hills. 


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16  Plaza  tie  San  Antonio 

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QUERIST  ARO  109 

Gonzalez  Junction , see  p.  108.  The  train  crosses  into  the  State 
of  Queretaro  and  traverses  one  of  the  richest  agricultural  re- 
gions in  the  Repub.  Farming  and  stock-raising  are  the  chief 
industries.  The  rainfall  is  ample  and  the  soil  is  very  deep  and 
rich.  The  entire  country  is  dotted  with  villages  whose  white 
church-spires  rise  above  the  surrounding  trees.  Organ  cactus 
takes  the  place  of  picket  fences,  and  certain  of  the  cultivated 
plots  are  delimned  by  tall,  spiky  maguey  plants.  Tall  hills 
mark  the  E.  and  W.  sky-line  and  the  intervening  valleys  are 
celebrated  for  bumper  crops.  These  follow  each  other  with 
amazing  regularity,  and  it  is  not  uncommon  to  see  sprouting 
crops  adjacent  to  ripening  grain  and  newly  ploughed  fields. 
The  fertility  of  the  land  is  attested  by  the  myriad  products 
offered  for  sale  by  women  peddlers  at  the  wayside  stations. 
In  the  lead  are  many  fine  fruits  — some  of  them  — which  are 
plucked  green  — of  a colicky  nature  and  to  be  avoided.  The 
tamales  and  enchiladas  are  so  charged  with  pepper  that  they 
are  apt  to  corrode  a tender  stomach,  but  the  rancheros , and 
the  second-class  passengers,  eat  them  with  undeniable  gusto 
and  an  apparently  insatiable  appetite.  The  strawberries 
are  excellent;  the  milk  is  oftentimes  that  of  goats.  We  pass 
the  unimportant  stations  of  615  M.  Jocoqui , 623  M.  Cosio,  and 
629  M.  Adjuntas.  As  we  approach  Queretaro  the  tree-dotted 
landscape  reminds  one  of  a rich  section  of  the  U.  S.  A.  The 
land  is  beautifully  green;  shy  blue  hills  peer  above  the  hori- 
zon, and  at  certain  seasons  miles  of  the  rich  valley  land  are 
carpeted  with  brilliant  wild-flowers  that  show  vast  blotches 
of  exquisite  color.  The  fat  valleys  are  the  grazing-ground 
of  cattle,  sheep  and  goats.  The  hills  are  opaliferous  — the  re- 
gion being  celebrated  for  the  production  of  these  attractive 
stones. 

The  polychrome  tile  domes  of  many  churches  soon  come  into  the  range 
of  vision.  Just  before  reaching  the  station  of  Queretaro  we  see,  on  the  ex- 
treme r.,  the  Cerro  de  las  Campanas  and  the  brown-stone  chapel  which  marks 
the  spots  where  the  Archduke  Maximilian  and  the  Mexican  Generals  Mira - 
mon  and  Mejia  were  executed.  (See  p.  119.) 

The  traveller  interested  in  this  unfortunate  prince  and  his  equally  un- 
happy consort  should  inspect  the  many  Maximilian  relics  enshrined  in  the 
Museum  at  Mexico  City,  described  at  pp.  306-07.  There,  too,  are  excellent 
portraits  of  the  imperial  pair,  with  a host  of  personal  belongings  of  both  the 
emperor  and  the  empress.  The  former  is  remembered  by  Mexicans  with 
pity:  the  latter  with  sincere  appreciation,  for  she  interested  herself  greatly 
m the  life  of  the  people,  and  was  both  loved  and  respected  by  them.  One  of 
the  many  happy  reforms  attributed  to  her  is  the  flower-crowned  plaza  which 
is  a feature  of  almost  every  Mexican  town.  It  is  said  that  originally  many 
of  them  were  paved  with  flat  stones  and  were  dedicated  more  to  military 
science  than  to  the  simple  arts.  To  her  is  credited  the  idea  of  planting  them 
with  flowers  and  installing  a music  stand.  She  made  the  beautiful  Paseo  de 
la  Reforma,  at  Mexico  City,  what  it  is  to-day  — one  of  the  finest  boule- 
vards in  the  world. 

Queretaro.  See  the  next  page.  For  a continuation  of  the 
journey,  see  page  129. 


110  Route  SO. 


QUERETARO 


Opals . 


30.  Queretaro. 

Arrival.  The  city  lies  about  a mile  to  the  S.-W.  of  tne  station  and  is  con- 
nected thereto  by  tram-cars  which  usually  meet  all  trains.  The  highroad  to 
the  city  is  not  always  in  state  for  walking,  and  the  traveller  is  advised  to 
patronize  the  tranvias  or  the  jitneys  and  cabs  usually  to  be  found  nearby. 

Autos  and  Cabs.  Ford  jitneys  at  S2.50  the  hour;  SI. 50  for  £ hour  or  less. 
Cabs  about  25  per  cent  less.  Both  charge  higher  prices  (sometimes  double) 
Dn  Sundays  and  dias  de  fiesta  — which  latter  are  frequent.  Special  arrange- 
ments should  be  made  for  out-of-town  trips. 

Tramways  ( tranvias ) are  unusually  popular  because  they  run  to  so  many 
of  the  delightful  little  suburban  places  for  which  the  city  is  known.  Cars 
( carros ) run  at  frequent  intervals  to  the  picturesq.ue  spot  called  Hercules, 
to  La  Canada,  Pueblito,  etc.  An  excursion  to  any  of  these  places  affords  the 
visitor  a pleasant  outing  and  a good  view  of  the  suburbs. 

The  Opal  Mines  ( minas  de  opalos ) referred  to  below,  are  outside  the  city. 
Permit  must  be  secured  from  the  owners  to  visit  them.  The  polishing  of 
the  stones  is  usually  done  in  the  city. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  Hcg-el  Iivternacional,  cor.  Juarez  and  Madero  Sts.; 
Hotel  de  Guadalupe;  Hotel  Hidalgo;  Hotel  Ferrocarril;  all  with  rooms  from 
$2  a day  and  up.  Room  and  board  from  $4  up. 

Banks.  The  Banco  Nacional  de  Mexico  is  the  correspondent  of  the  Mexico 
City  Banking  Corporation. 

Queretaro  (5,947  ft.),  capital  of  the  State  of  the  same 
name,  with  37,000  inhabitants;  one  of  the  most  important 
cities  in  the  Mexican  Confederation,  167  M.  north  of  Mex. 
City,  in  a fertile  valley  lying  along  the  slope  of  a hillock  known 
as  Sangremal,  is  divided  by  the  waters  of  the  Queretaro  River 
which  runs  through  it.  The  upper  part  of  the  town,  toward 
the  Plazuela  de  la  Cruz , is  clean  and  well  drained.  Many  of  the 
houses  are  very  old,  and  are  quaint  relics  of  Colonial  days, 
with  half-obliterated  escutcheons  above  the  doorways.  It  is 
not  as  progressive  as  some  of  the  Mex.  cities,  but  its  quaint- 
ness makes  it  attractive.  It  is  a reliquary  of  Mexican  history. 
Here  the  plans  for  national  independence  were  formed,  and 
here  the  Archduke  Maximilian  was  shot  June  19,  1867. 

Fine  Opals  are  found  on  some  of  the  haciendas  contiguous 
to  the  city,  and  they  are  offered  for  sale  on  the  streets  and 
in  the  hotels. 

Travellers  will  find  it  to  their  advantage  to  purchase  opals  of  reputable 
dealers  only,  as  the  tricks  in  the  opal  trade  are  numerous.  The  stones 
offered  for  sale  in  and  about  the  railway  stations  and  on  the  city  streets 
arp  apt  to  be  inferior.  The  finest  opals  usually  find  their  way  to  the 
hands  of  the  first-class  dealers  in  such  goods  in  the  City  of  Mexico.  The 
traveller  is  particularly  cautioned  against  the  self-styled  lapidarios — men 
who  claim  to  be  opal-polishers  and  who  have  in  their  possession  stones 
said  to  have  been  stolen  by  them.  These  men  are  untrustworthy  and  they 
should  be  avoidpd  or  treated  with  the  suspicion  and  contempt  one  wrnuld 
accord  any  self-confessed  thief. 

History.  Queretaro  was  founded  in  1440  by  the  Otomie 
Indians  (a  branch  of  the  Otomian  family),  whose  original  habi- 
tat was  the  region  at  present  comprised  by  the  States  of  Mex- 
ico, Puebla  and  Vera  Cruz.  The  hamlet  was  known  in  Indian 
annals  as  Taxco  — a Tarascan  Indian  word  signifying  ball, 
or  a place  where  ball-games  were  played.  When  the  Otomian 


80.  Route.  Ill 


QUERETARO 

nation  was  conquered  by  the  Aztecs  under  Montezuma  the 
town  was  made  an  outpost  of  the  Aztec  Confederacy,  and  for 
many  years  it  was  the  scene  of  almost  continuous  fighting  be- 
tween the  overbearing  Aztecs,  and  the  Chichimec  and  Micho- 
acan  Indians.  The  Spaniards  captured  it  in  1531,  changed 
its  name,  and  incorporated  the  region  into  the  Province  of 
Xilotepec.  As  a reward  for  certain  services  to  the  Crown,  the 
Spanish  King  gave  it  to  four  Hispanized  Indian  nobles,  Balta- 
sar  del  Carnpo , Juan  de  Luna , Lucas  Ramirez  and  Miguel  de 
la  Paz , and  with  it  the  title  of  Caballeros  Conquistador es  y 
Fundadores  de  la  Villa  — Conquering  Cavaliers  and  Founders 
of  the  Town.  The  name  of  the  place  was  soon  thereafter  al- 
tered to  Santiago  de  Queretaro,  because  of  an  alleged  miracu- 
lous manifestation  during  a fiesta  of  Santiago  (St.  James). 
According  to  the  Church  historian  a great  cross  of  red  and 
gold  appeared  in  the  sky  and  an  angel  was  seen  near  it.  The 
credulous  Indians  accepted  this  as  an  evidence  of  divine  pro- 
tection and  a Capilla  (that  of  Santa  Cruz  — Holy  Cross) 
was  erected  on  a hill  beneath  the  place  in  the  sky  where  the 
cross  appeared. 

By  virtue  of  a royal  order  signed  by  Felipe  IV,  Queretaro  was 
made  a ciudad  in  1655.  In  1808,  it  sprang  into  prominence 
as  the  cradle  of  Mexican  Independence.  A Society  for  the 
Study  of  the  Fine  Arts  (which  to  its  founders  were  synonym- 
ous with  the  expulsion  of  the  Spaniards  from  Mexico)  was 
established  in  the  house  number  14  in  the  Calle  del  Descanso. 

4The  charter  members  of  this  society,  which  was  destined  to 
be  enshrined  in  Mexican  history,  were  the  Padre  Jose  Maria 
Sanchez , the  Licentiate  Juan  N . Mier  y Altamarino,  Don  An- 
tonio Tellez , D.  Mariano  Lazo  de  la  Vega , and  the  Juriscon- 
sulto  Arellano.  The  house  soon  became  recognized  as  the  focus 
of  the  revolutionary  spirit,  which  in  due  course  and  with  the 
efforts  of  the  Cura  Hidalgo  succeeded  in  casting  off  the  yoke 
of  Spain  from  Mexico. 

The  Palacio  Municipal  (PI.  C,  3),  on  the  Plaza  de  la  Inde- 
pendence, was  once  the  home  of  the  Corregidora  Dominguez, 
a prominent  and  valiant  figure  in  the  War  for  Independence. 
On  the  facade  of  the  old  building  is  an  inscription  in  Span- 
ish as  follows : — 

“ In  this  palacio  dwelt  the  distinguished  heroine  Josefa 
Ortiz  de  Dominguez.  From  it  she  hastened  the  national  in- 
dependence by  giving  opportune  notice  to  the  patriot  Ignacio 
Allende,  thus  enshrining  herself  in  Mexican  history  and  ren- 
dering memorable  the  night  of  September  15,  1810.” 

On  the  second  floor,  in  the  council  chamber,  is  a collection 
of  portraits  of  benefactors  of  the  city.  Near  this  sola  is  the 
one-time  bedroom  of  the  Sehora  Dominguez;  the  floor  forms 
the  roof  of  a dark  apartment  in  which  the  humble  jailor, 
Ignacio  Perez , listened  on  the  night  of  Sept.  13,  1810,  until 


Plaza. 


112  Route  30.  QUERETARO 

he  heard  three  taps  of  the  Corregidora’s  foot,  the  signal  that 
their  conspiracy  against  the  Spanish  rulers  was  discovered 
and  that  he  must  hasten  to  advise  the  Cura  Hidalgo  at  Dolores. 
In  the  museum  of  the  Palacio  Federal  (p.  118)  is  a lock  (pre- 
served in  a crystal  casket)  through  wdiich  the  daring  and  pa- 
triotic lady  whispered  final  instructions  to  the  trusty  alcalde. 

The  Plaza  de  la  Independencia  (2  sqrs.  E.  of  the  Plaza 
Zenea , see  PI.  C,  3)  is  intimately  associated  with  the  downfall 
of  Maximilian’s  Empire.  During  the  siege  of  Quereto.ro,  when 
the  harassed  Emperor  was  penned  in  by  the  Mexican  troops, 
he  often  came  to  this  flower-crowned  spot  to  sit  on  the  stone 
curb  of  the  fountain  and  perchance  to  dream  of  the  mutability 
of  mundane  affairs.  When  this  fact  became  known  to  the  be- 
siegers, the  plaza  was  made  the  objective  point  of  shells, 
one  of  which  struck  the  original  statue  of  the  Marques  de  la 
Villa  del  Villar  del  Aguila  and  demolished  it  — a fact  referred 
to  on  the  tablet  let  into  the  E.  side  of  the  pedestal  of  the  present 
statue.  This  inscription  says  further  that  the  first  stone  of  the 
fountain  was  laid  March  28,  1843.  The  present  statue  dates 
from  1892.  The  inscription  on  the  W.  side  says  the  Marques 
began  the  construction  of  the  aqueduct,  which  brings  water 
to  the  city,  Dec.  26,  1726,  and  concluded  it  Oct.  15,  1735. 
The  S.  inscription  advises  that  the  huge  undertaking  cost 
SI 3 1,091,  of  which  the  Marquis  paid  out  of  his  own  pocket 
$88,287.  Many  water-carriers  come  to  this  fountain  to  fill  their 
pottery  ollas  with  the  precious  liquid,  to  distribute  it  later  to 
various  clients  in  the  city.  The  trees  and  parterres  of  flowfkrs 
are  attractive.  The  old  house  with  the  tile  decoration,  that 
flanks  the  plaza  on  the  W.,  is  a quaint  example  of  Colonial 
architecture.  To  reach  this  plaza  from  the  Jardin  Zenea,  pass 
to  the  rear  of  the  Cathedral  and  follow  the  Calle  Miguel  Hidalgo. 

The  Plaza,  or  Jardin  Zenea  (PI.  C,  3),  in  the  centre  of  the 
city,  and  flanked  on  one  side  by  the  Cathedral,  is  the  focus 
of  the  commercial  life.  Music  in  the  kiosko  on  Sundays  and 
certain  evenings  of  the  week.  On  Sunday  mornings  the  plaza 
is  very  animated.  Many  dealers  in  old  books  bring  their  small 
stocks  to  this  spot,  spread  them  out  near  the  entrance  to  the 
Cathedral,  and  do  a petty  business.  Stretching  from  this  point 
to  the  market  at  the  S.  are  usually  many  impromptu  stands 
where  attractive  straw  hats,  cotton  cloth,  chocolate-whirlers 
(molinillos)  and  a wide  variety  of  home-made  Indian  knick- 
knacks  are  offered  for  sale.  At  noon-time  the  church  bells  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  produce  a deafening  chorus.  At  the 
N.-W.  corner  of  the  plaza  a tablet  let  into  the  house  number 
84  advises  that  “ Sept.  13,  1810,  the  revolutionary  patriot 
and  meritorious  citizen  Epigmenio  Gonzalez , who  dwelt  here, 
was  arrested  for  making  ammunition  to  be  used  by  the  re- 
volucionarios  in  their  struggle  for  independence.”  Facing  the 
Jardin  on  the  E.  is 


Cathedral.  QUERETARO  SO.  Route.  113 

The  Cathedral  (PI.  C,  3),  a somewhat  nondescript  structure 
built  by  the  Spaniards  soon  after  the  conquest  of  the  town, 
and  which  probably  dates  from  about  1535.  Before  the  erec- 
tion of  the  Queretaro  diocese  (in  1867)  it  was  called  the  Church 
of  San  Francisco.  It  has  undergone  many  modifications,  some 
of  which  have  sadly  marred  it;  a notable  restoration  was 
one  executed  in  1727  by  the  order  of  Fray  Fernando  Alonzo 
Gonzalez , Commissioner-General  of  the  Indies.  An  old  coat- 
of-arms  is  still  to  be  seen  on  the  N.  fagade.  Perhaps  the  most 
noteworthy  feature  of  the  interior  is  the  polychrome  statue 
of  San  Diego  de  Alcala  (carved  in  wood,  by  Arce,  the  celebrated 
Queretaro  sculptor)  which  perhaps  dates  from  about  1606. 
The  elaborate  iron  reja  which  encloses  the  organ  loft,  and  the 
metal  adornments  of  the  organ  itself  are  worth  looking  at. 
Many  frames  filled  with  votive  offerings  hang  before  the  altar 
dedicated  to  El  Sagrado  Corazon  de  Jesus , and  many  small 
paintings  near  that  of  San  Antonio  de  Padua.  The  striking  great 
tower  and  dome,  covered  with  glazed  tiles  in  the  Mudejar 
style,  are  not  without  interest. 

The  Collegiate  Convent  of  Santa  Rosa  de  Viterbo, 
a 17th-cent.  foundation  on  the  Calle  de  Santa  Rosa,  S.-W.  of 
the  Jardin  Zenea  (PI.  B,  4),  aside  from  being  one  of  the  quaint- 
est of  the  city  churches,  is  of  peculiar  interest  as  being  one 
of  the  earliest  works  of  Eduardo  de  Tresguerras  (p.  128),  as  it 
was  placed  in  his  hands  for  radical  reconstruction.  The  dome, 
the  tower  and  the  cloisters  are  his  work,  as  well  as  the  ex- 
terior ornamentation  in  general,  including  the  entrances  and 
the  balustrades  of  the  roof.  It  is  said  that  an  enormous  sum 
realized  from  merchandise  seized  from  smugglers  ( contra - 
bandistas)  was  placed  at  his  disposal  for  this  purpose.  The 
buttresses  of  the  fagade  are  among  the  most  curious  in  Mexico. 
The  huge  faces  1 which  look  down  from  the  outer  curve  of  the 
inverted  arches  are  very  theatrical,  and  it  needed  just  such  a 
daring  mind  as  that  of  Tresguerras  to  apply  them  to  ecclesi- 
astical architecture  in  Mexico.  The  fine  dome,  with  its  poly- 
chrome tiles,  is  altogether  quaint.  The  pagoda-like  tip  of  the 
old  belfry  is  of  Oriental  aspect.  The  tawdry  neighborhood 
and  the  unkempt  streets  detract  from  the  fine  old  relic,  and 
this  impression  is  not  lessened  by  the  appearance  of  the  Hos- 
pital Civil , which  now  occupies  the  one-time  sumptuous 
convent  on  the  E.  side  of  the  church. 

The  small  interior,  now  narrowed  to  a single  nave  without 
aisles,  is  filled  with  superb  Churrigueresque  altars  and  reredos, 
and  its  richness  recalls  the  fine  Santo  Domingo  church  at  Oaxa- 

1 These  are  perhaps  the  only  examples  in  Mexico  of  the  Saracen  heads 
(vulgarly  called  La  Ca.rasa , in  Spain)  which  often  figure  in  the  architec- 
tural decoration  of  old  Catalan  churches.  They  commemorate  the  re- 
conquest  from  the  Moors,  and  the  Triumph  of  Christianity  over  Ma- 
homedanism.  In  Spanish  churches  they  occasionally  form  a part  of  the 
organ,  and  are  made  to  work  and  speak  by  means  of  a pedal. 


114  Route  30.  QUERETARO  Santa  Clara. 

ca  City  (p.  528).  The  old  altars  are  regal:  in  some  places  the 
gold  leaf  is  spread  on  so  thick  as  to  resemble  gold  plate.  From 
the  ashes  of  the  magnificent  altar  burned  by  the  French 
soldiery  during  the  occupation  of  Queretaro,  gold  of  immense 
value  is  said  to  have  been  recovered.  The  paintings  of  the  altars 
are  of  no  merit;  those  of  the  altar  nearest  the  prebisterio , de- 
pict scenes  in  the  apparition  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  to 
Juan  Diego  (comp.  p.  394) . The  central  paintingis  a reproduction 
of  Murillo’s  Assumption  in  the  Guadalajara  Cathedral  (p.  166). 

The  bizarre  confessionals  add  to  the  quaint  character  of 
the  ch.  The  Coro  “ is  a masterpiece  of  its  kind,  with  its  deli- 
cate, simple  grill-work  in  wrought-iron ; below  and  above, 
and,  filling  the  arches,  are  rich  effects  of  gilded  metal- work  in 
Arabesque  designs.”  The  numerous  painted  santos,  in  gilt 
frames,  above  the  reja,  which  separates  the  coro  from  the 
body  of  the  ch.,  are  by  unknown  artists.  Other  fine  examples 
of  early  wrought-iron  work  are  the  screened  balconies  for  the 
Mother  Superior. 

“The  Sacristia  is  a handsome  vaulted  room  that  still 
remains  much  as  Tresguerras  left  it.  Of  its  decorations  — be- 
side the  great  central  feature  — the  laver,  or  lavamanos , on 
the  right  is  the  most  elaborate.  The  chief  attraction,  however, 
is  the  magnificent  mural  decoration  that  entirely  occupies 
the  head  of  the  room.  Tresguerras  was  paid  15,000  pesos 
for  this,  his  largest  and  most  important  work.  This  is  one  of 
the  most  interesting  mural  paintings  in  Mexico,  and  it  has 
been  spoken  of  as  one  of  the  most  notable  examples  of  mural 
decoration  in  the  New  World.  In  form  and  color  the  com- 
position would  do  credit  to  Murillo , and  for  grace  and  naivete, 
and  suggestiveness  of  peace  and  purity,  it  is  most  notable.” 

“The  graciousness  of  the  groups”  (says  Mr.  Baxter),  “the  absence  of 
self-consciousness  in  the  figures,  and  their  human  feeling,  makes  it  re- 
presentative of  the  best  flowering  of  the  great  Spanish  School  on  Mexi- 
can soil.  The  picture  is  called  the  Hortus  Conclusus  ( The  Closed  Garden), 
in  the  inscription  over  the  figure  of  the  Virgin,  and  is  an  allegorical  repre- 
sentation of  the  nuns  and  their  pupils  at  work  in  the  garden  of  the  con- 
vent combined  with  a symbolization  of  Santa  Rosa , in  which  lambs 
receive  white  row  s from  the  Virgin  and  bear  them  to  the  feet  of  the  cruci- 
fied Saviour  to  be  turned  red  by  the  blood  from  his  wounds.  The  angel 
with  the  vase  of  roses  and  lilies  receives  the  stream  of  water  and  of  blood 
from  the  Saviour’s  side  so  that  the  water  falls  upon  the  white  lilies  and 
the  blood  upon  the  red  roses.” 

The  polychrome,  life-size  figures  of  Christ  and  the  12  Apostles, 
which  are  ranged  along  the  base  of  the  picture,  on  top  of  the 
dilapidated  estante , or  vestment-chest,  impart  an  odd  aspect, 
as  they  seem  not  to  have  been  selected  for  amiability  of  coun- 
tenance. The  old  marquetry  table  in  the  centre  of  the  room 
is  a weather-beaten  example  of  the  one-time  beautiful  work 
for  which  Queretaro  was  long  celebrated. 

The  Convent  Church  of  Santa  Clara,  which  faces  the 
jardin  of  the  same  name  (PI.  C,  4),  is  another  of  the  old  Quere - 


QUERETARO 


30.  Route . 115 


taro  landmarks  and  was  founded  in  1607,  When  completed 
it  was  one  of  the  largest  conventual  buildings  in  Mexico,  and 
it  sheltered,  it  is  said,  upward  of  8,000  nuns.  Much  of  the 
present  reconstruction  work  is  by  Tresguerras.  Like  that  of 
Santa  Rosa,  this  ch.  is  of  the  regular  conventual  type,  in- 
corporated into  the  main  structure  of  the  convent,  with  a 
long  barrel-arched  interior  parallel  with  the  street.  The  ex- 
terior work  of  Tresguerras  was  probably  confined  mainly  to 
the  dome  and  the  tower,  both  adorned  with  glazed  tiles  — 
the  dome  having  a pattern  of  blue  on  a yellow  ground ; the 
same  marks  the  dome  of  the  lantern,  whose  base  is  of  white 
and  blue.  The  lowest  belt  of  the  tower  has  a pattern  of  blue 
and  white  on  yellow  and  light  green ; the  middle  belts  are  blue, 
yellow  and  white  below  and  blue  and  white  above;  the  dome 
of  the  tower  blue  and  white  over  a belt  of  yellow  and  white. 

“The  interior,  which  is  smaller  than  that  of  Santa  Rosa , is 
equally  rich  in  its  decoration.  The  balcony  of  the  Mother 
Superior  with  the  doorway  below,  and  the  splendid  reredos 
of  the  altar  of  La  Purisima , on  the  opposite  wall,  are  designed 
as  pendants.  It  is  notable  how  in  this  work  Rococo  motives 
have  largely  replaced  those  of  the  Churrigueresque.  Interesting 
features  are  the  lace-work  designs  of  the  borders.  The  pulpit 
is  a rich  example  of  gilded  carving,  accented  with  color.  The 
polychrome  sculpture  of  Santa  Clara  is  exceptionally  good,  — 
especially  the  work  of  the  two  celebrated  masters  (natives 
of  Queretaro)  Mariano  Arce  and  Mariano  Perusquia.  Par- 
ticularly fine  is  the  group  of  La  Piedad  by  Arce,  notable 
for  the  masterly  handling  of  the  draperies  as  well  as  the 
monumental  quality  of  the  composition  and  the  contrast 
between  the  Virgin  Mother’s  intensity  of  grief  and  the  peace- 
ful repose  expressed  in  the  relaxed  form  of  the  dead  Saviour. 
Of  exceptional  note  also  is  the  Crucifix  by  Perusquia  in  the 
choir. 

“The  Master  Bartolico  was  the  sculptor  of  the  Nazareno 
in  this  church ; a figure  notable  for  its  expression  of  suffering 
commingled  with  sweetness.  There  is  a tradition  that  the 
Santo  Entierro , or  entombment,  is  also  his.”  (Sylvester  Baxter.) 

The  six  massive  and  splendidly  preserved  Churrigueresque 
altars  impart  an  air  of  great  richness  to  the  interior,  and  there 
are  few  finer  examples  of  Churriguera' s art  extant  in  Mexico. 
Note  the  old  wheel  of  bells  near  the  high  altar. 

The  dilapidated  stone  fountain  in  the  jardin  dates  from 
1806. 

“The  Church  and  Convent  of  San  Agustin  at  the 
corner  of  the  Calle  del  Aguila  and  S.  Agustin  (PI.  C,  4),  in  their 
richly  decorative  picturesqueness,  might  easily  be  supposed 
to  betoken  an  antiquity  antedating  by  two  or  three  centuries 
the  period  of  their  erection,  the  middle  of  the  18th  cent.,  when 
they  were  designed  by  the  Augustinian  Monks  Luis  Martinez 


116  Route  SO. 


QUERETARO 


Lucio  and  Carlos  Benito  de  Butron  Moxica.  The  figures  of 
the  angels  with  enormous  plumes,  that  stand  at  the  base  of 
the  dome,  which  is  beautifully  decorated  with  blue  and  white 
glazed  tile,  might  easily  be  taken  for  statues  of  native  caciques 
executing  a dance  in  honor  of  some  old  pagan  divinity.  It 
has  been  pointed  out  that  the  quaint  caryatides  on  the  cloister 
arcade  seem  to  be  making  the  signs  of  the  deaf-mute  alphabet 
with  their  huge  uplifted  hands.”  The  somewhat  elaborate 
interior  with  its  wealth  of  gilding  was  redecorated  in  1903. 
This  ch.,  standing  as  it  does  on  a platform  reached  by  seven 
steps,  exemplifies  an  architectural  feature  of  the  Querctaro 
churches  in  that  many  of  them  are  based  on  platforms  which 
materially  enhance  their  impressiveness.  One  square  to  the 
W.,  on  the  other  side  of  the  street,  is  the  weather-beaten 

Church  of  Santo  Domingo  (Pl.  B,  4),  a structure  of  striking 
irregularity,  with  its  double-naved  interior  and  its  domes  side 
by  side  and  representing  two  different  periods  in  construction. 

The  Church  of  San  Felipe  Neri,  on  the  comer  of  the 
Calles  del  Angel  and  San  Felipe  (Pl.  B,4),  has  an  elaborate 
facade  somewhat  striking  in  that  the  six  pillars  stand  clear 
of  the  wall  and  support  a superstructure  of  smaller  pillars 
and  arches.  In  the  sacristy  are  several  time-stained,  but 
good,  examples  of  the  artistic  woodwork  for  which  the  early 
Querctaro  artisans  were  famous. 

The  large  Church  of  La  Congregacion  or  Nuestra  Seiiora 
de  Guadalupe , a modern  structure  on  the  comer  of  the  Calle 
Felipe  Luna  and  Guadalupe  (Pl.  C,  3),  is  dedicated  to  the 
Virgin  of  Guadalupe , and  is  noteworthy  for  a life-size  statue 
of  this  lady,  who  stands  out  on  a covered  platform  high 
above  the  main  entrance.  The  peaked  towers  are  covered 
with  solid  color  tiles  of  red,  white  and  green,  thus  forming 
the  national  colors.  The  same  color  design  ornaments  the 
base  of  the  fa'  ade.  The  ch.  is  perched  on  high  ground  and  its 
towers  are  visible  for  many  miles.  One  square  to  the  W., 
further  up  the  hill,  is  the  antiquated  Parroquia  del  Sagra- 
rio  (PL  C,3),  with  curious  flying  buttresses  and  other  archi- 
tectural features  similar  to  those  of  Santa  Rosa.  The  interior 
is  uninteresting. 

The  Church  of  San  Antonio,  facing  the  plaza  of  the  same 
name  (PL  C,  3),  dates  from  the  17th  cent,  and  contains  a huge 
allegorical  painting  by  Gregorio  Romero,  in  1728. 

One  of  the  “sights”  of  Querctaro  is  the  Great  Aqueduct 
(PL  D,4),  which  brings  potable  water  into  the  city  from 
La  Canada , at  San  Pedro.  This  monumental  work  (compare 
the  inscriptions  on  the  base  of  the  statue  to  the  Marques  de 
la  Villa  del  Villar  del  Aguila  in  the  Plaza  de  la  Independeneia) , 
is  8 kilometers  long,  96  ft.  high,  with  74  arches  50  ft.  high 
upborne  by  piers  46  ft.  thick.  It  is  one  of  the  four  most  im- 
portant aqueducts  in  the  Republic,  the  others  being  that  of 


QUERETARO 


SO.  Route.  1 IT 


Zacatecas , of  Zempoalla  and  of  Xalpan.  The  latter  has  the 
extraordinary  height  of  about  200  ft.  with  three  tiers  of  arches. 
The  city  terminus  of  the  aqueduct  is  the  Plazuela  de  la 
Cruz  (PI.  D,  3),  which  is  reached  from  the  Plaza  de  la  Indepen - 
dencia  by  threading  the  short  Calle  de  Ignacio  Perez  (at  the 
S.-W.  corner  of  the  plaza)  thence  to  the  1.  up  the  Calles  de 
la  Flor  Alta , de  Cornelio , and  C.  Alta  de  la  Cruz.  What  was 
perhaps  once  a handsome  terminal  fountain  is  now  a neglected 
ruin  in  an  uninviting  neighborhood.  Two  well-preserved  in- 
scriptions let  into  the  terminal  wall  refer  to  the  construction 
of  the  aqueduct  and  its  completion.  The  inscriptions  them- 
selves are  very  quaint  examples  of  ancient  text,  and  they 
advise  the  curious  that  the  work  was  begun  Dec.  26,  1726, 
during  the  reign  of  Felipe  V of  Spain  and  the  Spanish  Viceroy 
(to  Mexico)  the  Marques  de  Casafuerte , and  that  it  was  com- 
pleted Oct.  19,  1739,  in  the  time  of  the  Viceroy  Juan  Antonio 
Vizaron  y Eguiarreta.  Furthermore,  that  the  work  was  done 
under  the  supervision  of  Don  Juan  Antonio  Virrun  y Arana, 
Gentleman  of  the  Order  of  Alcantara  and  Marquis  of  la  Villa 
del  Villar. 

The  Fountain  of  Neptune  (at  the  N.-E.  corner  of  the 
Jardin  Zenea,  PI.  G,  3)  is  connected  with  this  terminus,  and  it 
was  erected  by  the  ayuntamiento  in  1797,  and  reconstructed 
in  1848.  To  the  left  of  the  aqueduct  terminal,  at  the  extreme 
top  of  the  Plazuela  de  la  Cruz  — the  highest  point  in  the 
town  and  one  whence  splendid  views  are  obtainable  — is 

The  Templo  de  la  Cruz  (Ch.  of  the  Cross),  in  the  Plazuela 
de  la  Cruz  (PI.  D,  3).  It  occupies  an  historic  site  celebrated 
for  a hand-to-hand  conflict  between  the  invading  Spaniards 
and  the  Indian  owners  of  the  region,  and  which  decided  the 
fate  of  the  locality. 

Don  Fernando  de  Tapia , one  of  the  conquist adores,  accompanied  by  the 
caciques  of  Tula  and  Tapeji,  and  a horde  of  Indian  allies  of  the  Span- 
iards, advanced  on  Queretaro  and  sent  forward,  to  the  Otomie  chieftain, 
an  emissary  armed  with  peace  proposals.  The  Indians  decided  not  to 
give  up  their  homes  without  a struggle,  but,  realizing  the  futility  of  a 
bow-and-arrow  attack  on  the  mail-clad  Castilians,  the  wily  cacique  pro- 
posed a fist-fight,  which  offer  was  promptly  accepted.  The  conflict  began 
on  the  morning  of  July  25,  1531,  and  lasted  till  sundown.  Thousands  of 
husky  Indians  on  the  one  side,  and  the  hordes  of  Indian  allies  and  the 
Spaniards  on  the  other,  waged  what  was  perhaps  the  greatest  battle  of 
fisticuffs  on  record.  The  Spaniards  were  of  course  victorious,  and  the 
Indians,  who  proved  themselves  good  losers,  spent  the  night  dancing  in 
honor  of  their  new  ruler,  His  Spanish  Majesty  Charles  V.  In  due  time, 
the  spot  was  marked  by  a stone  cross,  — emblematic  of  the  new  religion, 
— and  this  now  occupies  a place  near  the  Altar  Mayor. 

The  old  convento,  which  adjoins  the  ch.,  was  used  by  Max- 
imilian and  his  besieged  troops  as  a barrack.  The  spot  was 
one  of  the  first  occupied  by  the  Mexican  General  Escobedo 
when  Queretaro  fell,  May  15,  1867.  The  view  from  the  old 
belfry  is  very  fine.  In  the  N.  wall  of  the  ch.  is  a striking 


118  Route  30. 


QUERETARO 


marble  monument  representing  a weeping  woman  holding  aloft 
a candle  whose  light  is  extinguished.  The  figure  kneels  at  the 
foot  of  a pedestal  on  which  are  the  inscriptions : 

“Maria  Josefa  Fernandez,  July  22,  1809.” 

“The  city  council  ordered  the  erection  of  this  monument 
Oct.  30,  1869,  as  a testimonial  of  the  public  gratitude.”  (The 
Seiiora  Fernandez  was  a public  benefactress.) 

El  Palacio  Federal  in  the  Calle  de  San  Agustin  (PI.  C,  4) 
is  also  the  work  of  Tresguerras.  It  possesses  a handsome  patio 
with  beautiful  arches  in  the  Spanish-Moorish  style.  Its  chief 
interest  to  strangers  centres  in  the  political  museum  (free) 
which  contains  a number  of  Maximilian  relics.  A noteworthy 
object  is  the  plain  deal  coffin  — ataud  — in  a glass  case  to 
protect  it  from  relico-maniacs,  in  which  the  Emperor’s  body 
was  laid  after  his  execution.  Note  the  bloodstain,  shaped 
something  like  a hand,  in  the  bottom.  Here  also  are  the 
benches  on  which  the  Mexican  Generals  Miramon  and  Mejia 
— Maximilian’s  faithful  aides  — sat  during  the  court-mar- 
tial; the  table  and  ink-stand  used  by  the  judge;  the  lock 
through  the  key-hole  of  which  went  the  whispered  command 
that  plunged  Mexico  into  a ten  years’  war  (comp.  p.  112); 
an  old  flag  of  the  Queretaro  battalion,  and  portraits  of  numer- 
ous persons  who  became  distinguished  in  the  wars  for  Inde- 
pendence, freedom  from  the  Imperialists,  and  for  Reform. 
Maximilian’s  death-sentence  is  to  be  seen  among  the  official 
archives  in  the  palace.  On  the  ground  floor  there  is  a per- 
manent museum  (uninteresting)  of  state  products. 

Excursions:  To  San  Pedro  de  la  Canada  (PI.  F,  2),  5 M. 
from  the  city  on  the  tram-line,  with  2,000  inhabitants,  and 
many  small  neat  houses  embowered  in  flowers  and  fruit  trees, 
is  one  of  the  favorite  drives.  The  town,  which  is  named  for  its 
patron  saint,  San  Pedro,  contains  some  fine  thermal  springs 
and  baths  — Banos  de  San  Pedro  de  la  Canada. 

Fabrica  de  Hercules  (H.  Mills)  in  the  centre  of  the  town 
of  the  same  name  (PI.  F,  2).  The  majority  of  the  inhab.  (8,000) 
find  employment  in  the  great  cotton-mills,  which  possess  a huge 
water-wheel  47  ft.  in  diameter,  and  are  driven  by  two  big 
engines,  and  by  water  brought  through  a fine  old  aqueduct. 
The  splendid  statue  of  Hercules  which  stands  in  the  jardin 
facing  the  mill,  was  brought  from  Italy,  at  a cost  of  814,000. 
There  are  other  manufacturing  plants  in  the  neighborhood. 
Near  the  Quinta  de  Patehe  is  a thermal  spring.  A morning 
can  be  spent  very  pleasantly  and  cheaply  in  a tram-ride 
through  Hercules,  San  Pedro  and  Patehe. 

At  Pueblito,  see  PI.  A,  3 (reached  by  the  tranvia ),  sometimes 
called  San  Francisco , there  is,  in  a locally  celebrated  shrine 
(of  Nuestra  Sefiora  del  Pueblito ),  a much- venerated  image 
known  as  La  Virgen  del  Pueblito.  According  to  Church  his- 
torians the  image,  which  is  two-thirds  life-size,  was  carved  by 


QUERETARO  STATE  80.  Route.  119 

a monk,  Fray  Sebastian  Gallegos , who  dwelt  in  the  Convento 
de  San  Francisco , about  1632.  The  credulous  believe  that 
the  figure  smiles,  weeps,  frowns,  sweats  and  accomplishes 
miracles.  The  ch.  dates  from  1766. 

The  spot  toward  which  the  feet  of  most  travellers  to  Quere- 
taro turn  irresistibly  is  the  Cerro  de  las  Campanas,  or  Hill 
of  the  Bells,  on  the  W.  edge  of  the  city  (PL  A,  3). 

By  cab  50  c.,  providing  the  traveller  makes  an  agreement  with  the 
cochero  to  this  effect.  A good  walker  can  make  the  journey  to  and  from 
the  Jardin  Zenea  in  about  an  hour,  allowing  20  min.  to  rest  and  inspect 
the  chapel.  Permits  must  be  secured  from  the  Administrador  del  Palacio , 
at  the  municipal  palace  in  the  city.  No  fees.  We  leave  the  N.-W.  corner 
of  the  Jardin  Zenea , proceed  one  sqr.  N.  to  the  Calle  de  San  Antonio, 
turn  sharply  to  the  1.  and  follow  this  past  the  Instituto  Metodista  and  the 
Church  of  Las  Capuchinas,  and  throughout  the  length  of  the  Third  Calle 
San  Antonio:  prolonging  which  are  the  Calle  del  Placer,  C.  de  la  Laguna 
and  C.  de  la  Fabrica.  At  the  end  of  this  last-named  street,  the  country 
begins.  We  follow  the  country  road  for  a short  distance,  then  turn  to  the 
r.,  strike  across  country  to  the  left  and  reach  the  foot  of  the  hill  which  is 
in  sight  from  the  time  we  leave  the  end  of  the  street. 

The  brown-stone  chapel,  La  Capilla  de  Maximiliano, 
erected  by  the  order  of  the  Austrian  Government  (in  1901)  at 
a cost  of  $10,000,  replaced  the  three  stone  shafts  which 
formerly  marked  the  spot  of  execution.  Sixteen  stone  steps 
lead  up  to  the  platform,  and  5 thence  to  the  chapel  entrance, 
which  is  barred  and  locked.  Persons  without  a permit  can 
look  through  the  iron  grill  and  see  the  three  squat  stone  pillars 
which  mark  the  spots  where  Maximilian,  Miramon  and  Mejia 
fell,  but  they  cannot  enter  the  chapel.  A wreath  of  artificial 
flowers  rests  upon  the  shaft  marked  Maximilian.  The  collec- 
tion box  in  the  chapel  is  for  donations  towards  a free  school 
maintained  in  Queretaro.  The  painting  above  the  altar  is  a 
Descent  from  the  Cross,  and  is  of  no  particular  merit.  For  the 
causes  which  led  up  to  the  execution  of  the  unfortunate  em- 
peror see  p.  ccxx. 

According  to  a local  orator  the  Light  of  Liberty  shines  in 
the  sarcophagus  of  the  Sertora  Ortiz  de  Dominguez , in  the 
Pantheon  of  la  Cruz,  at  the  east,  and  at  the  west,  on  the 
Cerro  de  las  Campanas , is  the  Sepulchre  of  a Monarchy. 

Queretaro  State,  one  of  the  smallest  of  the  Mex.  posses- 
sions, classed  politically  as  an  Estado  del  Centro , pop.  232,389, 
area  9,215  sqr.  kilom.,  rich  in  minerals,  a well-cultivated  and 
prosperous  region,  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  San  Luis  Potosi; 
on  the  E.  by  Hidalgo  and  Mexico;  on  the  S.  by  Michoacan  and 
on  the  W.  by  Guanajuato.  The  state  comprises  almost  equal 
portions  of  mountain  and  fine  valley  land,  with  a vegetation 
proper  to  the  temperate  and  torrid  zones.  The  lowlands  are 
extraordinarily  rich;  in  some  places  the  soil  is  10-15  ft.  deep. 
The  northern  section  is  mountainous ; the  southern  and  central 
are  covered  by  extensive  plains  and  valleys.  The  latter  pro- 
duce fruits,  flowers,  grain,  trees  and  medicinal  plants  in  almost 


120  Rte.  2S.  SAN  LUIS  POTOSI  TO  MEXICO  CITY 


endless  variety.  The  pine-apples,  dates,  bananas,  pomegran- 
ates, chirimoyas,  guavas,  strawberries,  figs,  lemons  and  limes 
are  much  prized.  The  Camote  or  sweet  potato  ( Batatas 
edulis),  which  thrives  in  many  regions  of  the  temperate  zone, 
reaches  a high  perfection  here,  and  its  yellowish  roots  are  much 
esteemed. 

The  Climate  of  the  state  is  cool  in  the  Amealco  and  Cade - 
reyta  regions,  temperate  in  Queretaro  and  San  Juan  del  Rio 
and  hot  in  Jalpan  and  Tollman.  The  rainfall  is  moderate, 
frosts  are  light  and  the  winds  are  variable.  The  prevailing 
diseases  are  malarial  fevers  and  affections  of  the  respiratory 
and  digestive  organs. 

The  River  System  is  represented  by  the  Conca  or  Jalpan , 
the  Extoraz , Montezuma  and  Galindo  rivers,  and  others  of  minor 
note.  There  are  many  mineral  springs. 

The  Opal  Mines  (described  at  p.  xci)  produce  considerable 
revenue,  albeit  they  are  crudely  and  unsystematically  worked. 

There  are  important  mercury  deposits  at  San  Jose  de  Itur - 
bide,  Rio  Blanco , Culebras,  San  Onofre  and  El  Doctor.  At  San 
Onofre  is  found  the  sulphoselenide  of  mercury  known  as 
onofrite. 

Queretaro  (p.  109).  The  grade  of  the  railway  slopes  upward 
and  we  get  a good  view  of  the  ch.  spires  of  the  city  as  we  pass 
it  on  the  E.  In  the  S.  suburb  is  the  fine  old  aqueduct  and 
we  get  a comprehensive  vista  of  it,  stretching  across  the  val- 
ley to  the  point  where  it  joins  the  conduit  at  the  base  of  the 
hill.  We  thread  a narrow  gorge,  with  hills  on  the  1.,  to  637  M. 
Hercules , with  large  cotton-mills  and  a miniature  town  devoted 
to  the  workmen.  The  valley  above  the  mills  is  choked  with 
sub-tropical  vegetation.  Here  are  bathing-resorts  and  picnic- 
grounds.  The  prospect  widens.  The  hills  retreat  to  a distant 
horizon  and  at  645  M.  La  Griega  we  emerge  on  an  upland  plain. 
654  M.  Noria,  in  the  centre  of  a beautiful  wide  plain.  Afew^miles 
beyond  the  station  the  land  flattens  out  till  it  is  as  level  as  a 
floor.  On  the  1.  are  hundreds  of  fruit  trees  set  out  at  regular 
intervals.  The  region  is  considered  one  of  the  finest  in  Mex- 
ico and  land  values  are  estimated  in  accordance.  The  views 
to  the  r.  over  a cacti-sprinkled  district  are  beguiling.  665  M. 
La  Llave.  A picturesque  willed  hacienda , with  castellated 
towers,  is  seen  on  the  r.  From  670  M.  San  Nicolas,  a region 
devoted  to  the  cultivation  of  pulque , the  upward  grade  be- 
comes perceptibly  steeper  and  the  line  traverses  a broken 
country  of  many  curves.  At  675  M.  Bernal  the  scenery  takes 
on  a more  rugged  character  and  many  miles  of  valley  land, 
marked  by  lakes  and  hamlets,  delight  the  eye.  The  train  passes 
through  many  cuts  made  through  the  brown  rock.  We  cross 
into  the  State  of  Hidalgo  and  enter  a short  tunnel.  681  M. 
M ereader.  The  views  to  the  1.  are  very  attractive. 


Chone. 


HUICHAPAN 


28.  Route.  121 


The  line  crosses  many  gulleys,  at  the  ends  of  some  of  which 
are  artificial  dams,  or  presas,  where  water  is  collected  during 
the  rainy  season  to  be  used  in  irrigating  the  land  during  the 
dry  months.  Cacti  is  the  dominant  vegetation.  We  proceed 
across  a rocky,  picturesque  region  to  694  M.  Chone,  one  of 
the  scenic  points  of  the  line.  Near  this  station  a deep  rift  in 
the  land  (best  seen  from  the  1.  of  the  train)  contains  many 
stone  pillar-like  formations  caused  by  the  erosion  of  the  little 
river  which  runs  through  its  depths.  We  cross  it  on  a steel 
bridge.  698  M.  Atlan. 

703  M.  Huichapan  (in  the  State  of  Mexico).  Rly.  restaurant, 
meals  $1.  The  nondescript  town  clusters  about  the  tall  ch.  to 
the  far  left  of  the  station.  The  elevation  of  Huichapan  is  about 
that  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  but  as  we  proceed  southward  the 
grade  slopes  steadily  upward.  Many  twists  and  turns  and  ter- 
races cut  from  the  hillsides  are  necessary  to  compass  the  higher 
levels.  The  views  across  the  wide  valleys  which  spread  out 
toward  the  left  are  never  without  interest.  We  pass  the  unin- 
teresting stations  of  709  M.  Mejia  and  715  M.  Nopala.  After 
leaving  Nopala  we  reach  the  crest  of  the  range  (7,800  ft.  — 
400  ft.  higher  than  Mexico  City)  and  begin  the  descent.  723 
M.  Escandon.  The  region  is  one  of  grassy  uplands. 

732  M.  Sayula  in  a jejune  district  where  artificial  irrigation 
is  practised.  The  region  is  unproductive  except  where  small 
patches  of  land  have  been  reclaimed  and  watered.  Some 
deepish  gorges  are  features  of  the  landscape,  and,  later,  a 
splendid  horse-shoe  curve  (best  seen  from  the  1.)  is  compassed. 
The  land  falls  sharply  away  to  the  1.  and  affords  extensive 
views  of  wide  valleys  with  hamlets  advertised  by  ch.  spires. 

741  M.  Endo,  a shipping-point  for  charcoal  prepared  in  the 
near-by  hills.  Range  after  range  of  mountains  overlap  against 
the  sky-line.  Pulque  (p.  lxxxii)  and  wheat  (p.429)  are  the  staple 
crops  of  the  intervening  valleys.  At  this  elevation  the  aloe  or 
maguey  attains  its  highest  perfection,  and  wide  fields  of  the  fine 
plants,  set  out  in  symmetrical  rows,  are  features  of  the  land- 
scape. The  line  again  slopes  upward  to  the  level  of  the  Valley 
of  Mexico.  744  M.  Carrasco.  750  M.  Teocalco.  756  M .Calera. 
Certain  of  the  old  churches  which  enliven  the  views  hereabout 
are  interesting  in  that  their  roof-walls  are  in  the  form  of  crenel- 
lated parapets,  as  if  erected  both  as  places  of  worship  and 
of  defence.  Some  are  in  the  Early  Franciscan  Style  (see  p.  cxxix) 
and  their  massive  buttressed  walls  and  sturdy  towers  are  hoary 
with  the  weight  of  centuries. 

At  the  time  of  the  Spanish  invasion  this  region  was  under  Aztec  influ- 
ence. Immediately  after  the  downfall  of  Tenochtitlan  the  Castilians 
marched  northward  in  search  of  other  fields  to  conquer.  At  that  period 
the  Franciscan  influence  was  strong,  and  many  of  the  churches  erected 
by  the  austere  friars  of  that  order  had  to  serve  as  fortresses  against  the 
attacks  of  the  harassed  and  infuriated  Indians.  They  are  still  strong  re- 
minders of  one  of  the  most  romantic  periods  in  the  history  of  North 
America. 


122 


AGUASCALIEXTES  TO  MEXICO  CITY 


760  M.  A pasco.  A number  of  lime-kilns  and  quarries  flank 
the  station  on  the  r.  The  rly.  winds  to  and  fro  as  if  seeking 
an  entrance  to  the  Valley  of  Mexico  just  beyond.  The  hills 
which  seem  to  bar  the  way  on  every  side  are  rounded  by  means 
of  sweeping  curves.  Beyond  767  M.  San  Sebastian  (town  with 
a tall  ch.  to  the  1.)  we  cross  a small  ridge  and  descend  to  the 
valley  level  at 

773  M.  Huehuetoca,  celebrated  as  the  starting-point  of  the 
great  Tajo  de Nochistongo  (see  p.  135),  excavated  in  early  times 
in  an  effort  to  drain  the  Mexican  Valley.  The  village  is  non- 
descript, with  several  churches,  on  the  r.  The  fairly  level  coun- 
try, dotted  with  maguey  ales  and  milpas  (cornfields),  forms 
the  outer  barrier  to  the  Valley  of  Mexico.  On  clear  days  the 
majestic  Popocatepetl  (p.463)  and  Iztaccihuatl  (p.464)  are  seen 
rising  in  snow-crowned  grandeur  against  the  S.  sky-line.  Mount 
Ajusco,  the  giant  which  hems  in  the  valley  at  the  S.-W.,  is 
seen  far  to  the  right. 

780  M.  Teoloyucan , a town  of  brick-kilns.  The  old  ch. 
which  crowns  the  summit  of  a hill  at  the  r.  dates  from  the 
17th  cent.  The  high  mountains  at  the  far  r.  form  a part  of 
the  Toluca  Range  and  separate  the  Valley  of  Toluca  (p.  199) 
from  that  of  Mexico.  784  M.  Cuauhtitlan , described  at  p.  137. 
— 789  M.  Lecher ia.  The  hills  close  in  and  the  grade  is  heavy  to 
the  cut  (1.148  ft.  long)  which  leads  to  the  Barrientos  Tunnel  — 
735  ft.  long  and  the  only  double-track  rly.  tunnel  in  the  Repub. 
We  emerge  from  the  tunnel  into  the  Valley  of  Mexico  (p.  244). 
794  M.  Tlalnepantla.  797  M.  Azcapotzalco  (p.419),  both  one- 
time Indian  strongholds. 

798  M.  Empalme  de  Tacuba,  a rly.  junction  and  a tawdry  out- 
post of  Mex.  City.  Tacubaya  soon  comes  into  view  on  the  far 
r.  We  pass  a number  of  adobe  huts  and  then  get  a command- 
ing view  of  the  splendid  hill-top  Castle  of  Chapultepec,  described 
at  p.  386. — 801  M.  Santa  Julia.  We  pass  the  Calzada  de  la 
Veronica  (which  leads  from  Chapultepec  Park  to  San  Cosme), 
flank  the  recreation  grounds  of  the  Spanish  Colony  of  Mex. 
City,  leave  the  fine  Paseo  de  la  Reforma  (see  p.  372)  on  the  r. 
and  enter  the  Estacion  de  Colonia.  803  M.  Mexico  City,  p.  232. 

31.  From  ( Ciudad  Juarez , Chihuahua , Torreon , 
Zacatecas)  Aguascalientes  via  Leon,  Silao,  Ira- 
puato,  Celaya  and  Queretaro  to  Mexico  City. 

Aguascalientes,  seep.  45.  The  train  runs  southward  across  a 
level  country  which,  though  dusty  in  appearance,  is  highly  cul- 
tivated and  productive.  Fine  view  in  retrospect  of  Aguascali- 
entes  city  on  the  r.  868  M.  Arellano.  The  land  slopes  downward. 

874  M.  Pehuelos.  We  enter  a rocky  region  of  many  curves 
and  rly.  cuts.  We  cross  the  state  line  and  enter  Jalisco.  At 


AGU ASC ALIENTES  TO  MEXICO  CITY 


123 


882  M.  El  Tigre  (the  tiger)  we  descend  into  an  arid  valley, 
then  cross  a long  viaduct  (one  of  the  highest  on  the  line) 
spanning  a deep  gulch  and  a presa  of  dirty-looking  water. 
Far  to  the  r.  on  the  slope  of  a barren  hill  is  the  town  of 

891  M.  Encarnacion.  The  rly.  station  is  a mile  or  more 
from  the  poor  and  desolate-appearing  town.  Beyond  this 
are  deep,  rock-strewn  valleys  — the  home  of  cacti  and  other 
hardy  desert  plants.  A small  tranvia  with  cars  scarcely  larger 
than  a Saratoga  trunk  connects  the  station  with  the  town. 
Fare  12  c. 

901  M.  Santa  Maria , a nondescript  station,  point  of  depart- 
ure for  the  inland  town  of  San  Juan  de  los  Lagos,  30  kilom. 
distant. 

San  Juan  de  los  Lagos  (St.  John  of  the  Lakes)  lies  in  a south-westerly 
direction  and  is  reached  by  a diligencia  (time  4 hrs.,  fare  $1 .50)  which  leaves 
Santa  Maria  daily.  There  are  several  small  mesones  (comp.  p.  li)  at 
San  Juan  (pop.  10,000)  where  the  traveller  may  find  a lodging  even  if  he 
does  not  find  good  food.  The  annual  fair,  for  which  the  place  is  celebrated, 
is  held  in  November,  and  at  that  time  some  60,000  or  70,000  pilgrims 
and  merchants  assemble  to  barter  and  do  honor  to  an  alleged  miraculous 
image  of  Nuestra  Sehora  de  San  Juan  de  los  Lagos , which  may  be  seen  in 
the  Parochial  Church , facing  the  main  plaza.  The  fiesta  bears  the  same 
relation  to  the  San  Juan  region  that  that  of  Our  Lady  of  Guadalupe 
does  to  the  Valley  of  Mexico.  A minor  fiesta,  in  honor  of  a C andelaria, 
is  held  in  February.  Travellers  who  contemplate  a visit  to  San  Juan 
during  these  months  must  arrange  for  lodgings  in  advance  or  carry  a 
camping  outfit. 

The  country  to  the  S.  of  Santa  Maria  is  broken  into  immense 
valleys,  which  lie  among  high,  barren  hills.  The  line  sweeps 
round  the  cerros  in  great  curves,  affording  fine  views  of  the 
lowlands  stretching  away  between  the  hills.  907  M.  Castro, 
916  M.  Las  Salas. 

922  M.  Mira  (look),  on  the  southern  slope  of  a cacti-dotted 
hill.  The  land  falls  sharply  away  (to  the  1.)  to  a great  valley 
miles  distant.  As  we  round  the  last  of  the  long  curves  we  see 
the  tops  of  the  distant  church  towers  of  Lagos  shining  brightly 
in  the  sun. 

929  M.  Lagos  (6,000  ft.),  a poor  and  non-progressive  town 
(pop.  15,000)  in  a fertile  region  in  the  State  of  Jalisco , has 
declined  greatly  since  the  old  stage-coach  days  prior  to  the 
advent  of  the  railway.  It  was  once  a very  important  place, 
but  the  microbe  of  laziness  seems  to  have  permanently  affected 
its  people.  It  was  founded  in  1540  (and  is  in  consequence  one 
of  the  oldest  towns  in  the  Repub.)  under  the  name  of  Santa 
Maria  de  los  Lagos.  The  station  stands  amid  tall  cottonwood 
trees  and  is  linked  to  the  town  by  a tranvia , whose  cars  meet 
all  trains  (fare  6 c.).  There  is  no  hotel  in  the  place,  but  a small 
meson  (comp.  p.  li),  which  changes  ownership  frequently, 
may  provide  the  traveller  with  lodgings.  Consult  the  station 
agent.  Luggage,  by  cargador  (comp,  lii)  to  the  town,  25-50  c. 
Contented  in  their  seclusion  from  the  outer  world  of  progress, 


124  Route  31. 


LEON 


the  Lagos  people  have  long  been  the  butt  of  ridicule  for  Mexi- 
can satirists;  the  newspapers  launch  squibs  and  lampoons 
against  them  and  attribute  to  them  a certain  ingenuousness 
and  density  of  intellect.  Many  ridiculous  stories  are  current 
regarding  the  slow-working  wits  of  the  city  fathers.  On  the 
stage  the  part  of  the  slow-witted  and  good-humored  simple- 
ton is  usually  assigned  to  the  Lagos  man.  The  town  contains 
nothing  to  interest  travellers.  The  Parochial  Church  bears 
a likeness  to  the  Chihuahua  Cathedral.  The  pictures,  by  local 
painters,  are  mediocre. 

Beyond  Lagos  the  train  descends  past  937  M.  Pedrito  (where 
we  enter  the  State  of  Guanajuato),  956  M.  Francisco , to  the  fine 
Leon  Valley,  and  to  966  M.  Leon,  see  below. 

Leon. 

Arrival.  The  town  lies  about  2 M.  to  the  E.  (left)  of  the  railway  station 
and  is  connected  therewith  by  a tram-line;  fare  6 c.  The  tramway  com- 
pany (ccmpania  de  tranvias)  also  delivers  luggage  to  the  hotels  for  15-25  c. 
a package  according  to  size.  Passengers  can  avoid  delay  at  the  station 
by  delivering  baggage-checks  to  the  hotel  manager. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  Hotel  Velasco,  Calle  de  Juarez,  Nos.  7 and  8; 
Hotel  Guerra,  Portal  Hidalgo,  No.  13;  Hotel  Mexico , Calle  del  Oratorio 
Poniente,  No.  7 ; Hotel  Hidalgo , Calle  de  Juarez,  Nos.  13  and  15.  All  SI. 50 
to  S3  a day,  Am.  PI.  Tram-cars  pass  near  to  them. 

The  names  and  locations  of  the  Leon  hotels  are  likely  to  change  at  any 
time. 

Banks,  where  travellers’  checks  and  Letters  of  Credit  may  be  cashed: 
Banco  Nacional  de  Mexico,  etc. 

Cabs.  Stands  at  the  corner  of  the  plaza  and  at  various  places  in  the 
town.  Per  hour,  50  c.  ; double  after  10  p.  m. 

Leon  (5,683  ft.),  259  M.  north  of  Mexico  City,  in  the  Partido 
de  Leon,  State  of  Guanajuato,  with  a population  of  59,000, 
was  the  birthplace  of  Ignacio  Aldama  (a  co-patriot  of  Hidalgo), 
in  whose  honor  the  town  is  called  Leon  de  los  Aldamas. 

The  name  Leon  is  a corruption  of  Legio  — the  7th  Legio  gemina  — 
which  was  quartered  in  Legio  (Spain)  by  Augustus,  in  order  to  defend 
the  plains  from  the  forays  of  the  Asturian  highlanders.  The  Spanish 
town  of  Legio  was  taken  by  Leovigildo , in  586,  who  changed  the  name  to 
Leon.  The  Mexican  town  was  founded  soon  after  the  Conquest,  by  Pedro 
de  Chirinos,  and  it  was  named  in  honor  of  the  Spanish  Province  of  Leon. 

Leon  lies  in  the  centre  of  an  extensive  and  amazingly  fertile 
valley  noted  for  its  mild  and  agreeable  climate.  The  chief  in-  I 
dustries  are  the  making  of  rebozos  (mufflers  for  the  face),  sad-  I 
dies  and  a wide  variety  of  leather  goods;  cutlery,  iron-ware, 
soap,  woollen-goods  and  straw  hats.  Few  tourists  visit  the  town. 
Its  numerous  pretty  'plazas  — in  one  of  which  is  a fine  artesian  j 
well  ( pozo  artesiano)  — are  embowered  in  flowers  and  shade 
trees.  The  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion,  known  also  as  the  P.  de  j 
A rmas  and  P.  Mayor,  occupies  the  centre  of  the  city  and  around  i 
this  is  clustered  the  commercial  fife.  The  fine  old  portales  which  | 
flank  it  recall  those  of  Oaxaca  and  Yucatan.  La  Calzada  and 
the  P argue  Manuel  Gonzalez  (named  for  a former  President 


Cathedral. 


LEON 


81.  Route.  125 


of  the  Repub.)  are  the  favorite  resorts.  The  Hidalgo  Market 
is  a busy  and  interesting  spot.  An  unusual  assortment  of 
articles  of  native  manufacture  is  to  be  found  in  this  mercado. 
Bargaining  necessary.  When  the  traveller  wishes  to  buy  an 
article  of  considerable  value,  he  will  do  well  to  ask  the  price, 
compare  notes  with  some  friend  or  with  the  hotel  manager, 
and  be  sure  that  he  is  getting  fair  treatment.  The  saddles 
and  leather  goods  are  attractive;  the  prices  of  the  former 
vary  widely,  and  are  based,  as  a rule,  on  the  amount  of  silver 
trimmings  (generally  of  sterling  quality)  which  usually  adorn 
them.  Common  straw  hats  cost  from  20  c.  to  $1.  Hats  with 
silver  braid  and  ornaments  may  cost  anywhere  from  five 
to  a hundred  pesos.  If  the  traveller  knows  how  to  bargain 
j [regatear ) he  may  perhaps  buy  a good  saddle  or  a hat  cheaper 
in  Leon  than  in  Mexico  City. 

The  Palacio  Municipal,  with  its  striking  and  richly  carved 
fagade,  is  one  of  the  finest  edifices  in  the  city. 

The  Cathedral  (erected  by  the  Jesuits  of  the  Compahia 
Nueva),  begun  in  1746,  completed  in  1765  and  dedicated  to 
Nuestra  Seiiora  de  la  Luz  (Our  Lady  of  Light),  occupies  the 
site  of  a primitive  ch.  demolished  in  1744.  As  Leon  was  not 
made  a See  ( sede ) until  1863  the  Cathedral  was  not  consecrated 
as  such  until  1866.  The  ch.  possesses  a fine  dome  and  two 
tall  towers  (completed  in  1878)  visible  from  all  parts  of  the 
city.  The  proportions  of  the  nave  are  bold  but  awkward ; the 
interior  measures  220  X 45  ft.,  with  the  result  that  the  aisle- 
less nave  is  too  long  for  its  width.  The  decorations  and  pic- 
tures (uninteresting)  are  by  local  painters.  To  the  faithful 
the  chief  object  of  interest  and  veneration  is  the  painting  of 
Nuestra  Seiiora  de  la  Luz  presented  to  the  ch.  by  the  Jesuit 
Father  Jose  Maria  Genovesi  in  1740.  The  ch.  adherents  accept 
it  as  genuine  because  of  the  certificate  (signed  by  four  Jesuit 
Fathers)  pasted  on  the  back.  The  image  was  installed  as  the 
official  patroness  of  Leon  on  May  23,  1840,  amid  appropriate 
and  solemn  ceremonies;  the  act  was  approved  by  the  Pope 
at  Rome,  Dec.  20,  1851. 

Churches  of  minor  note  are  those  of  Nuestra  Sehora  de  los 
Angeles  (Our  Lady  of  the  Angels),  a Jesuit  foundation  with 
some  interesting  carvings  by  a native  craftsman,  Sixto  Munoz; 
of  San  Juan  de  Dios , San  Felipe  Neri  and  La  Soledad. 

The  newest  of  the  city  churches,  El  Corazon  Inmaculado 
de  Maria  (the  Immaculate  Heart  of  Mary)  in  the  Calle  de 
los  Angeles , was  completed  and  solemnly  inaugurated  Aug. 
15,  1906.  The  interior,  with  a noteworthy  Altar  Mayor  of 
white  Italian  marble,  is  finely  decorated. 

Leon  is  celebrated  throughout  Mexico  because  of  a great 
flood  which  threatened  its  existence  on  the  night  of  June 
18,  1888.  A cloudburst  caused  the  Rio  Gomez  to  overflow  its 
banks,  and  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye  a huge  wall  of  water 


126  Route  31.  SILAO  — IRAPUATO 


and  debris  rushed  over  the  city,  sweeping  away  2,230  houses, 
drowning  200  persons  and  rendering  20,000  homeless.  The 
fine  bridges,  known  as  El  Puente  del  Coecillo,  and  the  huge 
dyke  of  heavy  masonry  (nearly  a mile  long  and  10  ft.  thick) 
were  erected  to  prevent  a repetition  of  the  disaster. 

The  fine  valley-land  which  stretches  southward  from  Leon 
is  highly  cultivated  and  of  a deep  soil  which  produces  abund- 
antly. Many  of  the  rich  products  of  the  state  (p.  145)  are 
grown  here.  975  M.  Trinidad.  981  M.  Napoles. 

987  M.  Silao  (6,000  ft.)  ; railway  restaurant,  meals  SI. 
Junction  of  the  branch  line  to  Guanajuato  (Rte.  32,  p.  137). 
Trains  leave  at  frequent  intervals  from  the  same  station. 
The  town  (pop.  16,000,  Gran  Hotel  Central , — Hotel 
Victoria;  $2.50  to  $3,  Am.  PI.)  stands  at  the  base  of  the 
Cerro  del  Cubilete , on  the  edge  of  a rich  farming  region. 
Among  the  churches  (uninteresting)  are  La  Parroquia,  1 ercer 
Orden , Santuario  de  Jesus  Nazareno,  San  Nicolas,  etc.  The 
Plaza \ Principal  is  an  attractive  spot,  and  the  Mercado,  in 
the  Tuscan  style,  is  animated.  About  10  kiloms.  from  Silao 
are  some  hot  springs  called  Aguas  Ter  males  de  Comanjilla , 
celebrated  locally  for  their  curative  properties. 

We  continue  our  journey  southward  from  Silao  through  a 
fine  valley  to  995  M.  Villalobos,  a nondescript  hamlet  in  the 
midst  of  a well-watered  and  productive  .country.  The  land 
roundabout  is  unusually  level.  998  M.  Vieyra. 

1,005  M.  Irapuato  (5,800  ft.).  Junction  of  the  Branch  Line 
to  Guadalajara  (Rte.  33,  p.  148)  and  the  Pacific  Coast. 
Passengers  for  the  Lake  Chapala  Region  (p.  151),  Tuxpan 
(p.  183),  Zamora  (p.  149),  Colima  (p.  185),  Manzanillo 
(p.  188),  and  Pacific  Coast  points  change  here.  Trains  leave 
from  the  same  station. 

Tram-cars  convey  passengers  to  the  town  (£  M.  to  the  r.  of  the  station) 
and  pass  near  the  chief  hotels.  Fare  5 c.  No  omnibuses.  Baggage  25-50  c. 
according  to  size.  By  giving  checks  to  the  hotel  manager  a better  rate 
can  be  secured,  as  the  tranvia  company  hauls  heavy  parcels  to  the  town 
on  a flat  car. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  Hotel  Vargas,  near  the  plaza.  $1.50  to  82 
Am.  PI.  according  to  location  of  room.  Rooms  only,  50c. -SI. — Hotel 
Guerrero,  on  the  road  to  the  town,  Si. 25  to  S2  Am.  PI.  Rooms  only, 
50  c.-Sl. 

Irapuato,  chief  town  of  the  district  and  municipality  of 
the  same  name  ( State  of  Guanajuato ),  with  a pop.  of  20,000; 
an  old  and  somewhat  unprogressive  place,  possesses  a fine 
and  equable  climate.  The  rich  soil  of  the  environing  country 
is  favorable  to  the  growth  of  strawberries  ( fresas ) which  are 
on  sale  throughout  the  year.  A score  or  more  of  venders 
frequent  the  rly.  station  and  offer  the  berries  in  small  baskets. 
The  best  berries  are  always  carefully  arranged  on  the  top: 
the  lower  layers  are  apt  to  be  small,  if  not  decayed.  Prices 
range  from  25  c.  to  $1.50  according  to  the  size  of  the  baskets. 
Bargaining  necessary. 


SALAMANCA 


31.  Route.  127 


Celaya. 

The  Church  of  San  Francisco  contains  a painting  of  the 
Virgin  of  Guadalupe,  by  Miguel  Cabrera  (see  p.  cli) ; a Virgin 
of  the  Apocalypse,  by  Eduardo  de  Tresguerras  (see  p.  cliii)  and 
some  minor  pictures  of  no  great  merit.  The  Templo  de 
Guadalupe  is  perhaps  the  most  attractive  of  the  remaining 
churches.  The  fine  gardens  in  the  environs  serve  to  rescue  the 
town  from  the  commonplace. 

From  Irapuato  the  line  trends  toward  the  south-east  and  fol- 
lows a gentle  upward  gradient.  The  region  roundabout  is 
ranked  among  the  most  productive,  in  an  agricultural  sense, 
in  the  Republic.  In  places,  the  soil  is  several  yards  deep,  of  a 
rich  black,  like  the  alluvial  deposits  of  the  Nile.  Several  small 
streams  meander  across  the  country,  and  they  are  tapped 
here  and  there  by  small  weirs  and  the  waters  are  led  away  to 
irrigate  the  soil.  Cultivation  of  the  land  is  rewarded  by  boun- 
teous crops  that  follow  each  other  as  fast  as  planted.  Some 
of  the  smaller  patches  of  tilled  land  are  enclosed  by  walls  of 
loose  cobbles.  1,011  M.  Chico. 

1,018  M.  Salamanca  (5,646  ft.),  chief  town  of  the  partido 
and  municipalidad  of  the  same  name  (pop.  13,700),  on  the  r. 
bank  of  the  Lerma  River , on  a wide  plain  subject  to  overflows 
in  the  rainy  season.  At  this  time  many  pools  ( charcos ) collect 
in  the  hollows  and  irrigate  and  fertilize  the  deep,  rich  soil. 
The  chief  industries  — aside  from  agriculture  — are  the 
manufacture  of  woollen  goods  (several  mills),  pottery  and 
gloves  ( guantes ),  which  latter  are  offered  for  sale  (bargaining 
necessary)  at  the  train  by  ambulating  tradesmen.  Hotel  Jua- 
rez, on  the  Tercera  Calle  de  Benito  Juarez,  $2  Am.  PI.  Hotel 
Colon , near  the  rly.  station,  $2  Am.  PI.  Hotel  San  Agustin , $2. 

Salamanca  derives  its  name  from  the  old  Spanish  city  (in  the  Province 
of  Leon,  Spain)  called  after  Elman , the  Iberian  God  of  War.  It  is  dif- 
ficult to  understand  how  even  the  bombastic  and  grandiloquent  Spanish 
conquistadores  could  have  named  this  characterless  Mexican  town  after 
the  splendid  old  Iberian  city  of  Salamanca,  celebrated  in  song  and  story 
as  the  ancient  stronghold  of  the  V ettones ; for  Hannibal’s  famous  siege; 
for  the  barbarity  of  its  Punic  conquerors  and  the  desperate  valor  of  its 
fighting  Amazons:  such  a nomenclature  suggests  bathos  rather  than 
reason. 

A short  Railway  Line,  Ramal  de  Gonzalez  al  Jaral  (operated 
by  the  National  Rlys.  of  Mexico),  runs  from  Gonzalez  Junc- 
tion (Rte.  28.  p.  107)  through  Salamanca  to  Jaral  del  Valle. 
Total  length  80  kilom.  Consult  the  Guia  Oficial. 

1,027  M.  Sarabia.  1,032  M.  Guaje.  1,038  M.  Crespo.  1,043  M. 
Celaya,  see  below.  For  a continuation  of  the  journey  south- 
ward see  p.  131. 

1,043  M.  Celaya  (State  of  Guanajuato),  a rly.  junction  (pop. 
25,565,  alt.  5,763  ft.),  is  a handsome,  flourishing  city  on  a beau- 
tiful plain,  in  the  fertile  Bajio  (the  most  extensive  depressed 
plain  on  the  Central  Table-land)  2 M.  from  the  La/a  River.  It 
is  noted  for  its  dulces  (sweets),  its  fine  trees  and  its  pleasant 


128  Route  31. 


CELAYA 


Eduardo  de 


surroundings.  The  place  was  founded  Oct.  12, 1570,  by  sixteen 
Biscayan  families  who  named  the  spot  ZaLaya  — in  the  Basque 
tongue  “ level  land.’’  It  was  made  a city  by  Philip  IV,  in  a 
royal  order  dated  Oct.  20,  1655.  It  owes  much  of  its  present 
very  notable  architectural  appearance  to  the  hand  of  its  famous 
son,  Francisco  Eduardo  de  Tresguerras  (comp.  p.  cliii),  who  was 
born  here  May  13,  1765,  and  who  died  here  Aug.  3,  1833. 

Arrival.  The  town  lies  a mile  or  more  from  the  station.  Tram-cars 
(fare  6 c.,  double  after  nightfall)  meet  trains  and  run  to  the  plaza.  Cabs 
25  c.  Hotel  Gomez , near  the  plaza , $2  to  $3  Am.  PL  Rooms  SI.  There 
are  several  minor  hotels  in  the  immediate  neighborhood.  Demand  a mos- 
quito net.  If  there  are  several  pieces  of  luggage,  deliver  checks  to  the 
hotel  manager  and  ask  him  to  have  the  trunks  brought  up  on  the  tram-car. 

“ The  Main  Plaza  [says  Mr.  Baxter , comp.  p.  cxxviii]  offers 
an  admirable  example  of  a formal  garden,  planned  with  beau- 
tiful simplicity.  The  column  in  the  centre  — an  impressive 
shaft  dedicated  d la  perpetua  memoria  de  la  Independencia  — 
was  designed  by  Tresguerras  in  commemoration  of  the  achieve- 
ment of  Mexican  Independence.  A remark  of  the  artist’s  con- 
cerning this  work  shows  that  city  authorities  were  considered 
a fair  target  even  in  those  days.  The  eagle  on  the  monument 
has  his  head  turned  backward,  and  a friend  asked  the  reason 
for  this  peculiarity.  ‘ So  that  he  may  not  see  the  barbarities 
committed  by  our  municipal  authorities,’ replied  Tresguerras. 
As  the  column  stands  in  front  of  the  Ayuntamiento , the  City 
Hall,  the  remark  perhaps  refers  to  the  architecture  of  that 
building,  which  has  an  arcade  with  strikingly  ugly  columns.” 
A noisy  artesian  well  which  spouts  a fine  stream  of  water  is  a 
feature  of  this  plaza.  The  flow  increases  and  diminishes  at 
certain  seasons.  Flanking  the  plaza  is  the  nondescript  Church 
of  El  Tercer  Orden , as  well  as  that  of  La  Cruz.  The  city  mar- 
ket is  animated  and  attractive. 

“ The  Church  of  Nuestra  Senora  del  Carmen,  chief  point 
of  interest  in  the  city,  is  also  one  of  the  most  famous  edi- 
fices in  Mexico.  A subject  of  architectural  controversy  at 
the  beginning,  its  repute  quickly  spread,  and  it  has  long  been 
celebrated  as  a masterwork  of  its  kind.  It  is  a large  and  most 
impressive-looking  structure,  its  nave  being  220  ft.  long  by 
55  ft.  wide  and  69  ft.  high.  The  former  Carmelite  monastery 
adjoining  is  of  the  date  of  the  old  ch.  destroyed  by  fire.  The 
present  structure  was  begun  in  1803  and  finished  in  1807. 
Its  effect  is  one  of  exquisite  grace  in  its  simple  beauty,  and 
this  quality  constantly  grows  upon  the  beholder.  From  all 
points  of  view  it  is  full  of  interest,  its  design  having  had  mani- 
fest regard  to  effect  at  the  end  of  commanding  vistas.  The 
view  from  the  market-place  makes  a fine  architectural  com- 
position, the  foreground  occupied  by  the  semicircular  peri- 
style designed  by  the  architect.  Of  all  the  beautiful  domes 
in  Mexico,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  is  that  of  Carmen , in 


Tresguerras . CELAYA  31.  Route.  129 

which  Tresguerras  has  achieved  the  exquisite  lines  of  one  of 
the  finest  of  Persian  types.  Its  decoration  of  glazed  tiles,  in 
alternating  yellow  and  green,  gives  an  effect  of  luminous 
greenish  gold.  The  majestic  interior  has  a strikingly  lucid  air. 
It  imparts  a rare  sense  of  artistic  unity ; practically  everything 
is  the  work  of  the  master  that  planned  the  fabric  — sculpture 
and  mural  paintings  included ; all  bespeak  the  devoted  atten- 
tion of  one  whose  heart  and  soul  were  in  the  work.  Some  of 
the  paintings  are  beautiful  examples  of  the  artist’s  quality 
in  that  field.  In  the  altar  of  San  Elias , Tresguerras  shines, 
both  as  sculptor  and  painter,  with  a vigorous  statue  of  the 
Saint  and  a large  decorative  painting  that  embodies  a deli- 
cately poetic  conception  of  the  favorite  Catholic  legend  of 
the  vision  of  Elias  — the  Virgin  appearing  above  the  sea, 
which  shimmers  with  tender  light. 

“ In  the  Capilla  del  Juicio,  the  Chapel  of  the  Last  Judg- 
ment — known  also  as  the  Capilla  de  la  Cofradia , the  Confra- 
ternity— there  is  a large  painting  at  the  high  altar  repre- 
senting Our  Lady  of  Carmen,  in  which  Tresguerras  has  de- 
picted the  souls  in  Purgatory  looking  to  the  Virgin  for  relief. 
The  decorations  of  this  chapel  are  nearly  all  of  sepulchral 
significance.  Most  notable  are  the  three  important  frescoes 
on  the  walls,  — the  chief  examples  of  the  work  of  Tresguerras 
in  that  branch  of  painting.  The  largest  of  these,  The  Last 
Judgment , has  an  extremely  sketchy,  off-hand  character.  The 
conception  is  forceful,  with  an  element  of  humor  underlying 
the  dramatic  realism.  This  finds  grim  manifestation  in  the 
artist’s  representation  of  himself  as  a central  figure  in  the  last 
awakening  — emerging  from  a yawning  tomb  in  the  middle 
foreground  between  the  hosts  of  the  elect  on  one  side  and  of 
the  condemned  on  the  other,  and  peering  out  with  an  expres- 
sion of  anxiety  and  uncertainty  on  his  countenance,  as  if 
doubtful  as  to  which  party  he  might  be  assigned.  The  other 
two  frescoes  represent  the  Entombment  of  Tobias  and  the  Re- 
surrection of  Lazarus.  These  are  evidently  of  later  date,  show- 
ing a greater  facility  in  handling  the  medium,  though  still 
somewhat  harsh  in  tone.  But  they  are  imbued  with  natural 
feeling  and  delicacy  of  sentiment. 

“ This  chapel  contains  a memorial  to  Tresguerras  in  the 
shape  of  two  medallion  portraits  in  fresco  that  flank  the  main 
entrance,  one  representing  him  at  the  age  of  35  years  and  the 
other  at  63  — the  latter  when  he  had  just  finished  the  church. 

“ The  great  Parochial  Church  of  San  Francisco  is  of 
cathedral-like  dimensions.  Though  highly  picturesque  in  ef- 
fect, with  its  group  of  adjacent  chapels,  some  of  these  incon- 
gruous features  are  very  bad  in  themselves.  The  facade  and 
the  dome  are  of  comparatively  recent  date,  and  the  latter  is  a 
melancholy  example  of  an  attempt  to  do  something  in  the 
manner  of  Tresguerras  at  Carmen.  The  ch.  was  founded  in 


130  Route  31. 


CELAYA 


Eduardo  de 


1570  and  the  present  edifice  dates  from  1715.  The  interior  has 
altars  designed  by  T resguerras,  whose  tomb  is  in  a little  mor- 
tuary chapel  built  against  the  side  of  the  ch.  This  chapel 
was  designed  and  erected  by  the  artist  himself.”  It  is  dedicated 
to  Nuestra  Senora  de  Dolores  — Our  Lady  of  Sorrows,  of 
whom  Swinburne  says: 

“ Cold  eyelids  that  hide  like  a jewel 

Hard  eyes  that  grow  soft  for  an  hour; 

The  heavy  white  limbs,  and  the  cruel 
Red  mouth  like  a venomous  flower; 

When  these  are  gone  by  with  their  glories, 

What  shall  rest  of  thee  then,  what  remain, 

O mystic  and  sombre  Dolores, 

Our  Lady  of  Pain?  ” 


Inscribed  on  oval  tablets  on  either  side  of  the  entrance  are 
the  following  stanzas  by  T resguerras  addressed  to  the  passer- 
by in  the  name  of  the  Sorrowing  Mother: 


(Translation) 

“O  vosotros  que  pasais 
Si  os  angustia  el  corazon, 

La  pen  a b la  sin  razbn 
No  sin  fruta  os  confundais: 

Mas  si  tercos  ponderais, 

De  insufrible  su  vigor, 

Es  vano  tanto  clamor, 

Pesadlas  una  por  otra, 

Y entre  tantas  ved  si  alguna, 

Se  iguala  con  mi  dolor. 


“ Mi  Jesus  que  es  el  hermoso, 

Y en  millares  escojido. 

Clavado  muere  y herido 
En  un  suplicio  afrentoso, 

Luego  un  lugar  tenebroso 
Me  lo  oculta  en  marmol  frio, 

Este  si  es  dolor  impio, 

Que  aun  niega  el  llanto  a mis 
ojos, 

Porque  solo  vean  despojos 
De  un  inculpable  hijo  mio.” 

“ The  crypt  is  beneath  the  centre  of  the  floor.  The  interior 
is  decorated  with  a frieze  of  the  Twelve  Apostles,  painted  by 
Tresguerras,  whose  portrait,  by  himself,  hangs  at  the  left  of  the 
entrance.  It  is  inscribed  ‘ Francisco  Eduardo  Tresguerras, 
Gravador  y Profesor  de  las  Tres  Bellas  Artes,  Natural  de  la 
Ciudad  de  Celaya.  Edad  35  anos.  Retratado  por  el  mismo, 
1780.’” 


"O  ye  that  pass, 

If  your  hearts  are  wrung 

By  pain  or  wrong 

Not  unfruitful  is  your  grief. 

But  should  ye  deem  \rour  woes 
Insufferable  in  their  burden, 

All  clamor  is  in  vain. 

Weigh  one  against  another 
And  see  if  of  them  all 
There ’s  one  to  compare  with  the  sorrow 
of  mine. 

“ My  Jesus,  the  beautiful  one, 

The  chosen  from  thousands  of  men 
Nailed  dying  and  wounded 
In  outraged  supplication. 

And  soon  a place  of  gloom 
Hides  him  from  me  in  marble  cold. 
Even  this  is  impious  sorrow 
Forbidding  to  my  eyes  the  very  tears 
Because  they  only  see  myself  despoiled 
Of  my  own  blameless  son.” 


“The  face  is  thin,  the  nose  aquiline,  the  eyes  are  dark  and  thoughtful, 
and  the  hair  is  brown.  The  expression  has  a penetrating  look,  not  stern, 
but  poetically  sensitive.  Many  pictures  by  the  artist  hang  upon  the 
walls.  One  of  the  principal  ones  is  a Christ,  a type  of  beautiful  young 
manhood.  Another  represents  the  Virgin  ‘according  to  the  one  painted 
by  St.  Luke.’  The  chapel  is  a sort  of  museum  of  mementoes  of  the  artist. 


Tresguerras. 


CELAYA 


81.  Route..  131 


Various  poems  by  him,  signed,  hang  in  frames  on  the  walls.  There  are 
also  numerous  personal  ornaments,  choice  bits  of  China,  etc.,  in  elabor- 
ately carved  gold  frames.  Connecting  with  the  chapel  is  a small  room 
with  a little  shrine  surmounted  by  a dainty  crucifix  carved  by  Tres- 
guerras. The  beauty  of  this  Crucifixion  dominates  the  expression  of 
anguish,  and  obscures  the  repugnant  effect  of  physical  suffering  that 
usually  marks  such  work.  In  this  shrine  are  preserved  various  relics  of 
the  man,  including  humble  articles  of  personal  use,  such  as  toilet  imple- 
ments, etc.  These  things  are  venerated  by  the  common  people  as  were 
they  relics  of  a saint.” 

Tresguerras  was  an  indefatigable  worker,  and  many  of  the 
churches  in  the  surrounding  towns  owe  a part  of  their  fine  in- 
terior decorations  to  him.  His  best  pictures,  sometimes  met 
with  in  private  collections,  are  held  at  prohibitive  prices. 
His  memory  is  kept  alive  in  many  ways ; streets,  houses,  and 
shops  are  named  for  him.  Butchers  even  call  their  shops  La 
Carniceria  de  Tresguerras. 

Other  important  works  at  Celaya  are  the  great  bridge 
across  the  Rio  Laja  (Laja  means  a thin,  flat  stone),  and  the 
tower  of  the  Church  of  San  Agustin.  The  latter  antedates  con- 
siderably the  erection  of  Carmen. 

A sweetmeat,  known  throughout  the  Republic  as  Celaya 
Dulce , is  made  here  in  large  quantities.  It  is  a mixture  of  sugar 
and  milk,  with  a taste  of  something  like  condensed  milk,  a 
bit  too  sweet  for  the  usual  adult  palate,  of  a light  brown  color, 
packed  in  thin,  wood  boxes  (called  cajetas)  of  many  sizes  and 
shapes.  Vociferous  natives  of  all  ages  surround  the  train  on 
its  arrival,  pass  boxes  of  the  dulce  through  the  car  windows, 
drop  them  into  the  traveller’s  lap,  and  urge  the  support  of 
the  local  industry.  The  boxes  range  in  price  from  10  cents 
to  several  dollars,  and  bargaining  is  necessary.  When  freshly 
made,  the  dulce  is  soft  and  pasty;  it  takes  on  a crust  and  be- 
comes brittle  and  sugary  with  age.  Cajetas  de  Celaya  (boxes 
of  Celaya  sweets)  is  the  venders’ favorite  call,  and  this  cry  is 
heard  in  many  parts  of  the  Republic. 

Celaya,  see  p.  127.  The  train  ascends  a gentle  gradient 
through  a picturesque  valley  phenomenally  productive.  We 
pass  several  unimportant  towns  and  enter  the  State  of  Quere - 
taro  (p.  119),  celebrated  for  its  opal  mines  and  fine  fruits. 
1,072  M.  Queretaro,  see  p.  109. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  Queretaro  station,  the  train  gradually 
draws  away  from  the  fertile  lowlands  and  approaches  the  final 
stiff  climb  to  the  level  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico.  The  region 
roundabout  is  broken  into  hills  and  valleys ; the  grade  slopes 
upward  and  we  traverse  many  farms  sprinkled  all  over  with 
various  species  of  cacti  (comp.  p.  lxxxi). 

1,075  M.  Hercules  (referred  to  at  p.  118).  The  town  stands 
at  the  edge  of  a great  depression  of  the  Central  Plateau,  reach- 
ing from  Zacatecas  at  the  N.  to  Polotitlan  at  the  S.  From  this 
point  the  train  climbs  steadily  until  it  reaches  an  elevation 
(near  Polotitlan)  of  8,000  ft.,  whence  it  descends  gradually  to 


132  Route  31.  SAN  JUAN  DEL  RIO 


T ula,  to  then  climb  upward  again  until  it  reaches  the  Valley  of 
Mexico  (7,349  ft.).  1,0S2  M.  La  Griega.  1,090  M.  Ahorcado. 
1,097  M.  Chintepec.  1,101  M.  Santa  Elena. 

1,106  M.  San  Juan  del  Rio  (St.  John  of  the  River),  6,245 
ft.,  with  a pop.  of  10,000.  Railway  restaurant ; meals  SI.  The 
San  Juan  River  runs  through  the  suburbs  of  the  town,  which 
lies  in  a narrow,  picturesque  valley  in  a highly  productive 
region.  The  largest  of  the  several  (uninteresting)  churches  is 
that  of  El  Sagrado  Corazon  de  Jesus.  Next  in  importance  is 
La  Parroquia , which  faces  the  Plaza  Principal  and  dates  from 
(1531)  the  founding  of  the  town.  The  busiest  street  is  the  Calle 
Real.  The  rly.  station  is  usually  thronged  with  venders  of  milk, 
eatables  of  many  kinds,  baskets,  opals  (usually  opal-agates 
and  not  worth  much,  comp.  p.  110)  and  excellent  lariats  ( riaias ) 
made  of  cactus  and  fibre.  The  best  are  worth  about  50  c.; 
which  the  dealer  will  accept  when  he  finds  that  he  cannot  get 
SI. 50.  The  stiffness  can  be  taken  out  of  the  coiled  lariats  with 
oil.  Tranvia  to  the  town  (at  the  r.),  6 c. 

The  train  describes  many  curves  and  affords  splendid  retro- 
spective views  as  it  climbs  to  the  higher  levels.  The  fine  pro- 
spect is  only  limited  by  the  mt.  peaks  which  cut  the  sky-line. 
The  land  is  of  limestone  formation,  with  evidences  of  violent 
volcanic  action.  The  arroyos  are  choked  with  volcanic  and 
diluvial  detritus;  the  distant  valleys  hold  quiet  lakes  in  their 
green  bosoms.  1,114  M.  Peon. 

1,117  M.  Palmillas.  Ruined  Spanish  bridges,  crumbling 
houses  and  ancient  aqueducts  bear  witness  to  the  early  Spanish 
occupation.  This  region  lay  within  the  sphere  of  Anahuac 
influence  and  both  the  Spaniards  and  Aztecs  who  ruled 
Tenochtitldn  (Mex.  City)  considered  it  an  outpost.  Peons 
(laborers)  may  be  seen  setting  out  young  maguey  shoots  in 
ground  softened  by  occasional  rains  or  heavy  dews.  Albeit 
the  Agave  Americana  does  not  thrive  here  as  on  the  Plains  of 
Apam  the  land  produces  the  intoxicating  pulque  (p.  lxxxii)  in 
quantities  sufficient  to  make  its  exploitation  fairly  profitable. 
Many  of  the  native  shacks  by  the  roadside  are  provided  with 
tin  roofs  held  down  by  heavy  stones  — a protection  against 
the  strong  winds  which  howl  almost  continually  across  these 
uplands.  We  pass  from  the  State  of  Queretaro  into  the  State 
of  Hidalgo.  The  railway  continues  to  ascend  through  the  well- 
cultivated  hills,  affording  many  fine  vistas. 

1,124  M.  Cazadero  (hunter),  so  named  for  a great  hunt 
given  (in  1540)  to  the  Spanish  Viceroy  Don  Antonio  de  Men- 
doza, in  which  15,000  Aztecs  took  part.  Hard  by  is  a large 
hacienda  of  the  same  name.  The  rly.  traverses  a fertile  region 
producing  fine  harvests  of  Indian  corn;  the  fields  are  called 
milpas  in  the  Indian  tongue.  The  land  hereabout  was  per- 
haps cultivated  for  countless  ages  before  Columbus  was  born. 

Though  times  have  changed,  the  methods  of  the  farmers 


M aize. 


INDIAN  CORN 


31.  Route.  133 


have  not,  and  they  still  use  the  single-pronged  stick,  with 
which  their  Aztec  progenitors  ploughed  the  soil.  The  green 
sprigs  of  maize  in  the  adjacent  fields  are  perhaps  the  direct 
descendants  of  the  plants  which  grew  here  in  bygone  centuries. 
The  swift  runners  who  once  carried  the  harvest  to  the  Aztec 
metropolis  are  now  replaced  by  the  train  which  races  across 
the  ancient  milpas. 

On  the  discovery  of  America,  says  Humboldt,  the  zea  maiz  ( tlaolli  in 
the  Aztec,  mahiz  in  the  Haytian)  was  cultivated  from  the  most  southern 
part  of  Chili  to  Pennsylvania.  Columbus,  in  his  first  voyage,  in  1492, 
discovered  corn  in  use  by  the  Indians  of  Cuba,  and  afterwards  by  those 
of  Haiti.  Among  the  trophies  of  the  New  World  that  this  great  navigator 
laid  at  the  feet  of  his  sovereigns,  on  returning  from  this  remarkable 
voyage  to  the  unknown  country,  were  a few  ears  of  maize,  or  “ Indian 
corn,”  ‘‘the  great  tasselled  chieftain  of  the  West.”  Neglected  were  they 
amongst  the  mass  of  rich  plunder  — gold,  gems,  and  strange  copper- 
skinned captives  — that  greeted  the  eyes  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabela; 
but  the  golden  ears  were  of  far  more  value  to  the  world  than  all  the 
treasures  that  subsequently  flowed  into  their  coffers  from  New  Spain. 
The  spread  of  the  wonderful  grain  was  rapid,  and  that  which  bad  hitherto 
constituted  the  chief  food  of  the  American  Indians  was  soon  all  over 
Europe,  Asia,  and  Africa,  A thousand  years  before  America  acquired  a 
name,  the  Indians  of  Mexico  cultivated  this  precious  cereal.  At  the  pres- 
ent day,  even,  it  is  almost  their  sole  support.  It  was  the  great  staple  of 
Montezuma’s  Court,  and  Cortes  found  it  there  when  he  came  to  Mexico. 
The  home  of  the  maize  is  undoubtedly  the  Mexican  plateau;  there  it 
finds  the  necessary  union  of  hot  “ growing”  days  with  cool,  moist  nights. 
There  are  few  parts,  either  of  the  tierra  caliente  or  of  the  table-land,  in 
which  maize  is  not  cultivated  with  success.  In  the  low,  hot  grounds  upon 
the  coast,  and  on  the  slope  of  the  cordillera,  its  growth  is  more  prolific 
than  on  the  table-land,  where  its  fecundity  is  such  as  will  hardly  be  cred- 
ited in  Europe.  In  the  Indian  hill-towns  of  Southern  Mexico,  some  of 
the  villages  are  almost  entirely  hidden  in  vast  fields,  where  the  great 
stalks,  with  their  waving  tassels,  like  the  feathered  crests  of  warriors  of 
old,  reach  the  height  of  fifteen  feet.  The  ears  of  corn  are  called  (Spanish) 
elotes,  from  the  Aztec  elotl.  Parched  corn  was,  in  the  Aztec  tongue, 
mumhuehitl. 

1,130  M.  Polotitlan,  in  the  State  of  Mexico.  1,139  M.  Danuy 
in  the  State  of  Hidalgo.  1,144  M.  Nopala.  1,147  M.  Mara - 
villas.  1,149  M.  Marquez.  The  train  sweeps  round  many 
a curve  and  winds  in  and  out  among  the  hills  as  if  seeking  an 
entrance  to  the  Valley  of  Mexico.  We  soon  reach  the  highest 
point  (8,237  ft.)  and  we  reenter  the  State  of  Mexico. — 1,151 
M.  Lena.  The  line  skirts  the  edge  of  a high  ridge  whence  (to 
the  1.)  stretches  a splendid  valley  hemmed  in  by  distant  mts. 
Fine  views.  At  the  base  of  a hill  near  the  station  is  a quaint 
old  mission  church  in  a jejune  yard  deserted  by  all  except  a 
solitary  weeping  willow.  Near  by  is  a white- walled  hacienda 
whose  red-tile  roof  and  ruinous  out-buildings  recall  some  de- 
serted corner  of  Tuscany.  The  train  again  crosses  the  line 
marking  the  State  of  Hidalgo.  1,157  M.  Prieto , in  the  State  of 
Mexico.  1,162  M.  Landa. 

1,166  M.  San  Antonio.  A few  hundred  yards  to  the  left 
of  the  station  is  an  haci,enda  of  the  olden  time;  the  contigu- 
ous capilla  and  the  fortress-like  walls  with  loop-holed  turrets 


134  Route  31. 


TULA 


for  guards  are  mute  reminders  of  the  days  when  a church 
might  be  used  for  worship  in  the  morning  and  as  a fortress 
before  dark.  Beyond  San  Antonio  a vast,  deep  valley 
stretches  away  to  the  left,  and  the  delighted  eye  ranges  over 
miles  of  lowlands  dotted  with  haciendas . with  range  after 
range  of  hills  and  a myriad  tall  cacti,  of  infinite  variety,  aflame 
with  red  and  yellow  blossoms.  Scrub  trees  clothe  the  distant 
hillsides;  the  castle-like  buildings  resemble  feudal  retreats 
in  the  midst  of  green  gardens.  The  loose  stones  are  here  and 
there  piled  up  into  walls  to  enclose  small  patches  of  tilled 
land.  The  wide  valleys  are  literally  choked  with  organ  or 
candelabra  cacti,  with  spikev  maguey,  thorny-padded  nopals 
and  a small,  slender  species  of  cactus  much  used  by  the  Indians 
in  making  perforated  walking-sticks.  Many  Indian  peddlers 
trot  along  the  narrow  foot-paths  toward  Tula.  The  grade 
slopes  sharply;  the  train  descends  rapidly,  whipping  across 
bridges  and  around  sharp  curves.  Many  of  the  haciendas 
through  which  we  pass  breed  fighting  bulls  for  the  Mexico 
City  Bull-Ring  (p.  371),  and  for  corridas  in  other  cities.  We 
soon  reach  the  historic  town  of  Tula  (see  below),  a one-time 
Indian  stronghold  and  one  of  the  oldest  settlements  in  Mexico. 

1,175  M.  Tula  ( ToUan  — place  of  the  reeds),  50  miles  from 
Mexico  City,  6,766  ft.  above  sea-level,  with  2,000  inhabitants 
(railway  restaurant),  was  once  the  metropolis  of  the  mysterious 
Toltecs  (p.  clxiii),  who  settled  here  about  the  year  648  of  the 
Christian  Era  and  prospered  until  the  beginning  of  the  eleventh 
century.  According  to  an  authority  the  downfall  of  the  race 
(which  silently  disappeared  from  the  region  no  one  knows 
whither)  dated  from  the  discovery  (by  Xochitl,  the  daughter 
of  the  noble  Papantzin,  comp.  p.  lxxxv)  of  pulque,  the  blajico 
neutli  of  the  later-day  Aztecs.  The  Chichimecs  (p.  clxiv)  took 
possession  of  the  deserted  city  of  Tula  in  1170  and  were 
ousted  therefrom  by  the  Aztecs  in  1196.  The  hills  about  the 
town  are  honeycombed  with  the  graves  of  the  ancient  people 
who  once  lived  and  worked  here.  The  modern  Tula  is  built  al- 
most entirely  of  stones  taken  from  the  old  Indian  temples. 
Broken  idols  and  sculptures  of  colossal  proportions  lie  scat- 
tered about  the  town  and  some  of  them  bear  a striking  resem- 
blance to  the  ruins  of  Chichen-Itza,  described  at  p.  581. 

In  the  Plaza  Mayor  are  some  interesting  monoliths  re- 
covered from  the  primitive  Toltec  city.  Noteworthy  pieces 
are  a gigantic  column  and  the  lower  half  of  an  immense  figure 
of  a man ; the  pieces  show  that  they  were  kept  together  in  the 
original  structure  by  being  mortised.  Adorning  the  lintel  of 
the  main  entrance  to  the  one-time  cathedral  are  a “ zodiac  ” 
and  a petroglyph  of  unknown  antiquity.  Certain  of  the  stones 
and  designs  which  ornament  the  fine  statue  of  the  Aztec 
Prince  Cuauhtemotzin  (described  at  p.  376)  were  taken  hence. 

During  the  Aztec  sovereignty  Tula  was  an  important  out- 


Nochistongo. 


TULA 


31.  Route.  135 


post  of  Tenochtitlan.  The  Spaniards  found  it  of  considerable 
strategic  importance,  and  here  they  erected  their  “ most  holy 
and  noble  cathedral/ ’ which  still  stands  to  defy  the  ravages 
of  time  and  which,  according  to  a half-obliterated  inscription 
on  the  wall,  was  completed  in  1553.  Its  groined  ceiling  and 
massive  walls  are  eloquent  reminders  of  the  extreme  solidity 
and  earthquake-defying  qualities  of  the  early  Spanish  ( the 
Early  Franciscan  Style , p.  cxxix)  edifices.  The  structure  is 
of  light-colored  stone  and  its  thick  walls  — which  are  en- 
closed in  an  outer  wall  of  great  strength  — served  more  than 
once  as  a fortress  to  the  beleaguered  Iberians.  The  church  is 
192  ft.  long,  41  ft.  wide  and  82  ft.  high,  and  the  top  of  the  single 
tower  rises  125  ft.  above  the  pavement.  The  chapels  are  mod- 
ern. The  paintings  are  chiefly  noteworthy  for  their  antiquity. 
The  archives  contain  some  interesting  MSS.  in  the  Nahuatl 
tongue.  The  baptismal  font  is  a prehistoric  Toltec  relic. 

An  interesting  spot  in  the  environs  of  Tula  is  the  Cerro 
del  Tesoro,  or  hill  of  the  treasure,  which  overlooks  the  town 
and  is  reached  after  a short  walk  along  the  shaded  road  lead- 
ing to  Ixmiquilpan.  We  cross  the  stone  bridge  (erected  in 
1772)  and  climb  the  hill  to  a ridge  about  a mile  in  length  and 
almost  covered  with  Toltec  ruins.  The  most  prominent  build- 
ing is  of  uncut  stone  laid  in  mud  and  covered  with  a hard 
cement;  the  floors  are  coated  with  the  latter  material.  The 
ruins  of  a great  number  of  small  rooms  are  still  to  be  seen. 
Albeit  the  Tula  ruins  do  not  possess  the  interest  of  those  of 
Mitla  (p.  537)  or  Palenque  (p.  567),  they  are  worth  the  time 
spent  in  visiting  them.  The  traveller  with  a few  hours  to  spare 
can  board  an  early  morning  train  at  the  Buena  Vista  Station 
(p.  232)  at  Mexico  City,  reach  Tula  in  2 hrs.  (fare  $2.40  1st  ch), 
and  return  by  one  of  the  several  daily  trains.  A guide  is  neces- 
sary only  to  economize  time.  Ask  the  station  agent  to  appoint 
one  of  the  small  lads  who  loiter  about  the  trains;  a fee  of  50  c. 
is  ample  for  a half-day. 

A branch  rly.  line  leads  hence  to  (71  K.)  Pachuca  (comp.  p.  422).  Two 
trains  daily  in  2 hrs.;  fare  1st  cl.  $2.13.  Consult  the  Guia  Ojicial. 

From  Tula  the  train  climbs  a stiffish  grade  to  1,186  M. 
Dublan , and  the  puffing  of  the  locomotora  awakens  the  echoes 
in  the  one-time  pleasure-garden  of  the  early  Tzins.  Pepper 
and  willow  trees  abound,  and  the  land  is  well  cultivated. 
1,189  M.  El  Salto  (7,206  ft.).  We  soon  enter  the  famous  Tajo 
de  Nochistongo  (see  below),  also  called  the  Cut  of  Huehue- 
toca.  The  best  views  are  from  the  right  side  of  the  train. 
1,191  M.  Nochistongo  (7,500  ft.)  in  the  State  of  Mexico.  The 
great  trench  deepens  as  we  advance. 

The  celebrated  Tajo  de  Nochistongo , a gigantic  trench  originally  more 
than  4 miles  long,  constructed  with  a view  to  drain  the  Valley  of  Mexico, 
was  begun  Nov.  28, 1607,  under  the  direction  of  the  celebrated  Portuguese 
hydrographer  Enrico  Martinez  (comp.  p.  297).  The  original  idea  was  to 


136  Route  31.  TAJO  DE  NOCHISTONGO 


cut  a tunnel  through  the  mountain  at  Nochistongo , thus  allowing  for  the 
free  passage  of  the  surplus  water  of  the  Valley  lakes.  From  12,000  to 
15,000  Indians  were  forced  to  do  the  work,  which  was  considered  com- 
plete eleven  months  after  its  inception.  Thousands  of  the  unhappy  cap- 
tives died  from  overwork  and  exposure.  The  first  water  was  admitted 
into  the  tunnel  (which  was  then  21,650  ft.  long,  10  ft.  wide  and  15  ft. 
deep)  Dec.  8,  1608,  in  the  presence  of  the  Viceroy,  the  Archbishop  and  a 
multitude  of  Spaniards  and  Indians.  The  result  of  this  great  undertak- 
ing, in  which  millions  of  pesos  and  thousands  of  lives  had  been  wasted, 
was  disappointing,  as  only  Lake  Zumpango  and  a river  which  was  diverted 
into  it  were  drained,  leaving  Lakes  T excoco  and  Chaleo  — the  greatest 
menaces  to  the  city  — unaffected.  During  the  years  which  followed, 
there  was  much  bitter  controversy  between  Martinez  and  the  authorities: 
it  culminated  with  the  exceptionally  heavy  rains  of  1629.  Foreseeing 
the  destruction  of  his  work  if  the  accumulated  waters  were  permitted  to 
rush  through  the  tunnel,  Martinez  ordered  the  entrance  walled  up.  The 
immediate  effect  was  to  inundate  the  City  of  Mexico;  the  principal 
streets  were  3 ft.  under  water,  business  was  paralyzed,  the  poor  suffered 
great  hardships;  and,  to  add  to  the  general  panic,  the  region  was  shaken 
by  violent  earthquakes. 

The  public  rage  vented  itself  on  the  unfortunate  engineer,  who  was 
imprisoned,  but  who  was  released  upon  promising  to  convert  the  tun- 
nel into  an  open  ditch.  To  prevent  land-slips,  the  trench  was  deepened 
and  the  necessary  slope  was  given  to  the  sides.  The  Indians  .finally 
balked  at  the  inhuman  cruelties  ceaselessly  practised  upon  them  and 
many  deserted,  but  they  were  captured  and  imprisoned  in  a large  build- 
ing, the  remains  of  which  are  to  be  seen  still  at  the  southern  end  of  the 
cut.  As  fast  as  the  earth  was  removed  other  was  washed  down  from  the 
sides.  It  was  not  until  1789,  nearly  two  centuries  after  its  inception, 
that  the  ditch  attained  its  present  aspect. 

It  is  from  30  to  100  ft.  deep,  and  in  some  places  300  ft.  broad.  A good 
idea  of  its  height  can  be  obtained  by  measuring,  with  the  eye,  the  wall 
opposite  to  the  train  — which  traverses  the  cut  about  60  ft.  from  the 
bottom.  We  enter  the  tajo  proper  at  kilom.  53  and  emerge  at  kilom.  50. 
Near  the  centre  the  line  makes  a slight  curve  and  affords  a comprehensive 
view  of  the  entire  trench.  The  ruined  bridge  near  the  exit  is  a relic  of  the 
old  post-road  (constructed  in  the  16th  cent.)  between  the  capital  and 
Zacatecas  City.  A bit  of  the  original  tunnel  may  be  seen  by  descending 
into  the  cut  near  the  station  of  Nochistongo.  The  original  plan  of  the 
entire  work  is  on  exhibition  in  the  National  Museum  at  Mexico  City. 

1,196  M.  Huehuetoca  (7526  ft.).  Near  this  station  is  the 
fine  farm  ( Hacienda  de  Jalpa ) of  Governor  Landa  y Escandon, 
of  the  Federal  District.  The  estate  is  one  of  the  richest,  most 
extensive  and  best  managed  in  the  Republic.  The  splendid 
old  mansion  is  filled  with  antiques  that  are  a sustained  de- 
light to  antiquaries  and  collectors. 

1,202  M.  Teoloyucan  (7,518  ft.).  The  brown  basaltic  hills 
which  delimn  the  Valley  of  Mexico  on  the  W.  and  S.  are  now 
in  sight.  Like  a fagged  steed  within  sight  of  home  the  train 
rushes  across  well-cultivated  farms  and  between  rows  of  tall 
elms  that  recall  vistas  in  the  Holy  Land.  Many  cornfields 
flank  the  line,  and  huge,  patriarchal  centurv-plants  serve  as 
hedge-fences.  We  get  fine  views  (on  the  1.)  of  Popocatepetl 
(p.  463)  and  Iztaccihuail  (p.  464). 

Teoloyucan  is  the  point  of  departure  for  the  ancient  town  (about 
10  M.  distant)  of  Tepozotlan.  which  contains  the  old  Seminario  de  San 
Martin  (founded  about  15S4)  with  one  of  the  finest  camarins  in  the 
Repub.  There  are  few  more  beautiful  examples  of  Colonial  ecclesiastical 
architecture  in  Mexico  than  this  splendid  relic  (an  unappreciated  gem), 


Silao. 


GUANAJUATO 


32.  Route.  137 


with  its  fine  chapels,  its  exquisite  Churrigueresque  facade  of  clean  cut 
stone  and  its  fine,  heavily  gilded  Churrigueresque  altar-pieces;  so  well 
preserved  that  they  look  as  if  finished  only  yesterday.  Most  travellers 
pass  it  by  because  of  the  difficulty  in  getting  to  it  — the  lack  of  convey- 
ances, etc.  — but  a visit  is  worth  the  inconvenience.  Among  the  many 
paintings  in  the  ch.  are  two  good  examples  of  the  best  work  of  J . Rodriguez 
Juarez  (comp.  p.  cl)  and  some  excellent  allegorical  subjects  by  Miguel 
Cabrera  (p.  cli).  The  pueblo  in  which  the  ch.  stands  is  now  but  a simu- 
lacrum of  its  former  self.  The  region  was  a sort  of  buen  retiro , or  coun- 
try resort  of  the  early  Jesuit  Fathers,  who  lavished  great  sums  on  the 
ch.  and  its  decorations,  and  who  retired  here,  at  certain  times,  to  en- 
joy, in  comparative  solitude,  the  fine  works  of  art  which  were  once  a 
prominent  feature  of  the  edifice. 

1,206  M.  Cuauhtitlan  (Aztec  — place  of  the  eagle),  7,506  ft., 
a somnolent  place  celebrated  locally  for  a derisive  com- 
parison current  in  the  vernacular:  “ Todo fuera  de  Mexico  es 
Cuauhtitlan ,”  which,  liberally  translated,  means  that  “ Mexico 
City  is  the  centre  of  everything.”  It  was  once  an  Aztec  town 
of  considerable  importance.  Juan  Diego , to  whom  the  Virgin 
of  Guadalupe  (comp.  p.  394)  is  said  to  have  appeared  on  Dec. 
9,  1531,  was  born  here. 

1,212  M.  Lecheria  (7,518  ft.).  1,217  M.  Tlalnepantla  (7,520 

ft.),  a poor  town  in  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  on  the  edge  of  the 
Federal  District  (p.  249)  which  we  now  enter. 

The  Parochial  Church  contains  a,  number  of  pre-Columbian  relics 
in  the  form  of  chiselled  stones,  monoliths  and  whatnot,  of  considerable 
interest  to  archaeologists.  An  old  cylindrical  vase,  in  the  bautisterio , and 
a font  ( Cuauhxicalli ) in  the  body  of  the  ch.  are  particularly  interesting. 
The  earthquake  of  March,  1908,  opened  a subterranean  cavern  beneath 
the  town  and  disclosed  idols  and  relics  which  lead  archaeologists  to  be- 
lieve that  the  present  town  rests  on  the  ruins  of  a Toltec  city  antedating 
the  discovery  of  America. 

1,220  M.  Hutchinson , with  a factory  for  the  making  of  car 
materials.  The  train  sweeps  round  a curve  to  the  left  and 
backs  into  the  Estacion  de  Buena  Vista  (7,466  ft.),  more  than 
a mile  higher  than  the  Boston  State  House  or  Trinity  Church 
at  New  York.  Cab-stand  (p.  235)  in  the  station  yard,  and  tram- 
cars  (p.  236)  pass  by  the  gate.  Several  rly.  refreshment  rooms 
directly  across  the  street.  1,225  M.  Mexico  City,  see  p.  232. 

32.  From  Silao  to  Guanajuato. 

From  Silao  to  Guanajuato  (Ramal  de  Guanajuato)  22  K.  Several 
trains  daily  in  about  1 hr.  Consult  the  Guia  Oficial.  The  only  intermedi- 
ate station  of  note  is  Marfil  (ivory)  at  the  base  of  the  gorge  leading  up 
to  Guanajuato  and  for  many  years  the  terminus  of  the  line. 

Guanajuato. 

The  Railway  Station  faces  the  Calle  de  Tepetapa  and  is  about  10  min. 
by  tram-car,  or  15  min.  on  foot,  from  the  principal  hotels.  The  tranvia 
which  connects  the  station  with  the  Jardin  de  la  Union  passes  them.  The 
agents  of  the  Robert  McCormack  Express  Co.  meet  all  trains;  trunks  to  the 
hotel  25  c.;  cargadores  (comp.  p.  lii)  usually  demand  50  c.. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii.)  Wood's  Hotel , Am.  management  and  plan, 
$3.50  to  $7  (much  frequented  by  Americans,  and  well  spoken  of);  in 
the  Calle  de  Alonso. 


138  Route  32. 


GUANAJUATO 


La  Presa. 


Hotel  de  la  Union  facing  the  Plaza  de  la  Union;  S3. 50  to  $7  Am.  PI. 

Gran  Hotel  Espanol , Calle  Puente  del  Rastro  (hard  by  the  Plaza  de  la 
Union) ; S2  to  So.  Gran  Hotel  Zozaya,  Calle  de  Alonzo  No.  3;  $2  to  $5. 

Guanajuato  (7000  ft.),  capital  of  the  State  of  the  same 
name,  with  40,000  inhabitants,  one  of  the  richest,  oldest,  and 
most  picturesque  towns  in  the  Repub.,  is  poised  high  above 
the  great  plateau,  in  a narrow  mountain  gorge  traversed  by 
the  Guanajuato  River.  The  principal  entrance  to  the  town 
is  through  the  Canon  de  MarfiL , a long,  vertical  rift  in  the 
mountains  beginning  near  the  station  of  Marfil  at  the  base. 
Hard  by  is  a lofty  hill,  La  Bufa,  crowned  by  bizarre  rocks 
which  stand  a thousand  or  more  ft.  above  the  plain.  The  ap- 
proach to  Guanajuato  is  very  picturesque;  the  line  twists  and 
turns  through  narrow,  lateral  gorges,  but  it  climbs  steadily 
upward,  past  many  mining-tunnels,  ore-heaps  and  primitive 
and  modem  reduction  works.  The  ground  beneath  the  ir- 
regular city  is  honeycombed  with  tunnels  and  shafts  which 
tap  immensely  rich  deposits  of  gold  and  silver  ores. 

The  situation  is  wild  and  striking:  the  precipitous  hills 
roundabout  are  dotted  with  homes,  churches,  mining-shafts, 
winches,  ore-dumps,  and  the  varied  paraphernalia  of  deep 
mines;  the  streets  are  narrow-,  crooked  and  sloping,  and  cer- 
tain of  them  are  so  precipitous  that  it  has  been  necessary  to 
piece  them  out  with  stone  steps,  which  recall  certain  of  the 
Italian  and  Sicilian  towms.  Some  of  the  thoroughfares  afford 
no  room  for  any  sort  of  a vehicle,  and  indeed  but  scant  elbow 
room  for  pedestrians.  The  roofs  of  certain  of  the  houses  are  on 
a level  with  the  ground  floor  of  those  contiguous.  The  doors 
of  many  are  reached  by  extraordinarily  high  stoops,  cut  out 
of  the  rock,  and  the  views' from  some  of  them  are  inspiring. 

The  river  w’hich  formerly  plunged  down  through  the  centre 
of  the  town  and  bubbled  and  churned  its  wTav  beneath  arched 
bridges,  wTas  a picturesque  but  dangerous  stream  — one  w^hich 
not  infrequently  placed  the  inhabitants  in  dire  peril.  In  1760 
a tremendous  flood  in  the  mountains  caused  great  loss  of  life 
and  property  in  the  towm.  On  the  night  of  June  7,  1885,  the 
river  surged  out  of  its  banks  and  wrecked  property  to  the 
value  of  three  millions  of  pesos.  On  July  1,  1905,  a cloudburst 
in  the  hills  caused  it  again  to  overflow7,  and  200  persons  were 
drowned ; the  property  loss  w’as  enormous.  Usually  these  floods 
in  the  city  were  due  to  the  overflow^  of  the  huge  reservoir  (la 
presa)  at  the  base  of  the  hills  behind  it.  Since  the  last  inun- 
dation an  immense  tunnel,  the  Porfirio  Diaz , has  been  cut 
(at  a cost  of  8350,000)  to  divert  the  overflow  and  provide 
against  a recurrence  of  disasters. 

La  Presa  is  but  one  of  a succession  of  huge  reserv oirs,  built, 
one  higher  than  the  other,  at  the  top  of  the  city,  to  provide 
potable  water.  As  this  drains  in  from  the  hillsides,  it  is 
difficult  to  keep  the  supply  unpolluted;  travellers  will  there- 


Alhondiga. 


GUANAJUATO 


32.  Route.  139 


fore  do  well  to  drink  only  bottled  or  boiled  water.  The  finest 
of  the  reservoirs,  La  Presa  de  la  Olla,  is  well  worth  inspection ; 
the  masonry  work  is  excellent.  The  handsome  Paseo  de  la 
Presa , which  is  a favorite  promenade  and  is  flanked  by  attract- 
ive houses,  leads  up  to  it. 

The  name  Guanajuato  is  derived  from  Guanaxhuato , a 
Tarascan  Indian  word  signifying  “Hill  of  the  Frogs.”  Mexican 
historians  agree  that  this  appellation  was  given  to  the  place 
because  of  the  great  number  of  frogs  which  once  made  the 
spot  their  habitat;  and  also  because  of  an  enormous  stone 
chiselled  to  represent  a frog  ( rana ),  which  was  found  there 
by  the  ancient  Chichimecs  and  long  worshipped  by  them  in 
lieu  of  a more  suitable  divinity.  The  town  was  founded  soon 
after  the  Conquest , coincident!  y with  the  subjugation  of  the 
state  (comp.  p.  146)  and  the  discovery  of  a wonderfully  rich 
mineral  vein  in  what  is  now  the  La  Luz  district.  It  grew  rap- 
idly and  was  made  a city  in  1741.  It  was  soon  recognized  as 
one  of  the  greatest  silver-producing  centres  of  the  New  World, 
and  mine  after  mine,  some  of  them  fabulously  rich,  were 
opened  and  exploited  for  the  Church  and  the  Spanish  Crown. 
Some  of  these  mines  still  produce.  The  celebrated  Valen - 
ciana  (p.  144),  the  Mellado  and  the  Rayas  mines,  on  the  highest 
point  of  the  mountain  slopes  N.  of  the  city,  alone  kept  the 
Spanish  exchequer  filled  for  centuries.  The  beautiful  and  justly 
famous  Church  of  La  V alenciana,  described  at  p.  144,  should  be 
visited  for  the  sake  of  the  church  itself,  the  magnificent  pano- 
rama, and  to  gain  an  idea  of  what  the  output  of  these  early 
mines  must  have  been.  From  the  mts.  which  rise  in  rugged 
grandeur  around  the  city  comes  much  of  the  fine  colored 
marble  noted  in  the  local  architecture.  The  hills  to  the  N.-E. 
of  the  city  are  called  the  Sirena  Mts.  The  hills  fall  away 
toward  the  S.-W.  and  afford  commanding  vistas  of  the  fertile 
plains  which  stretch  away  toward  Irapuatoy  Celaya  and  Quere - 
taro. 

The  Alhondiga  de  Granaditas  (once  a species  of  grain 
market  or  exchange,  and  now  a prison),  built  by  the  order  of 
the  Spanish  Intendente  Don  Juan  Antonio  Riano  and  early 
used  by  the  Spaniards  as  a fortress,  is  one  of  the  most  histor- 
ically interesting  buildings  in  the  city,  as  well  as  one  of  the 
most  famous  landmarks  in  Mexico.  A grisly  reminiscence 
attaches  to  this  Alhondiga.  It  stands  near  the  entrance  to 
the  city  at  the  foot  of  El  Cerro  del  Cuarto  (quarter  mountain), 
so  called  because  prisoners  were  formerly  drawn  and  quartered 
here  and  the  leg,  or  quarter,  was  nailed  to  a post  for  the  con- 
templation of  evil-doers.  The  cerro  dominates  the  edifice, 
wdiich  is  a vast  and  impressive  example  of  secular  architect- 
ure. An  inscription  in  the  N.  wall  (to  the  right  of  the  en- 
trance) says  the  building  was  begun  Jan.  5,  1798,  completed 
June  16, 1808,  and  cost  $207,089.  In  form  it  is  a parallelogram 


140  Route  82.  GUANAJUATO  Alhondiga. 

210  ft.  on  its  longest  side,  two  stories  high  with  a line  of  quaint 
Moorish  windows  along  the  upper  story.  The  ground  floor  is 
Tuscan,  the  upper  Doric,  with  a stone  balustrade  between  the 
columns.  The  E.  and  N.  entrances  are  adorned  with  Tuscan 
columns  and  entablatures.  A marble  slab  to  the  1.  of  the 
main  entrance  advises  that  “ The  Army  of  Independence  en- 
tered Guanajuato  and  captured  this  edifice  on  Sept.  28,  1810.” 

On  that  date  it  was  the  scene  of  a tremendous  and  bloody  struggle 
between  the  besieged  Spanish  royalists  and  the  revolutionary  Mexican 
forces  under  the  Cura  Miguel  Hidalgo  y Costilla.  Hidalgo's  forces  had 
taken  the  city  by  storm,  and  the  last  defence  of  the  Castilians  was  the 
Alhondiga , which  they  defended  with  great  bravery.  The  fortress-like 
character  of  the  structure,  its  massive  walls  and  thick,  heavy  doors 
made  it  almost  impregnable  against  an  assault  with  light  arms.  During 
the  struggle  Hidalgo  called  for  volunteers  to  brave  the  hail  of  missiles 
that  fell  from  the  roof,  and  to  set  fire  to  the  huge  wooden  door. 

A sturdy  young  peon  workman  from  the  Mellado  mine  seized  a wide, 
flat  flagstone,  threw  it  across  his  back  to  serve  as  a shield,  and  then  at- 
tained his  object  under  a terrific  fire.  (Within  the  building,  behind  an 
iron  railing,  is  a somewhat  idealized  statue  to  this  heroic  Indian  martyr, 
whose  name  w as  Jose  M.  Barajas , alias  Pipila.) 

As  the  frenzied  rev olu cion arios  rushed  into  the  building  they  met  their 
hated  Spanish  foes  in  the  great  patio , where  a fierce  hand-to-hand  struggle 
ensued.  The  royalists  wrere  eventually  driven  to  the  roof,  wrhere  they 
were  all  killed.  They  contested  every  foot  of  the  great  stairway,  fighting 
as  they  wTent,  and  leaving  a trail  of  blood  — blotches  of  which  are  still 
pointed  out  on  the  stair  by  the  custodiano.  The  Intendente  Riano  was  one 
of  the  first  to  lose  his  life  w’heu  the  city  was  captured  and  sacked  by  the 
enemy. 

A few  days  after  the  capture  of  the  Alhondiga , the  infuriated 
populace  broke  into  the  fortress  and  murdered  247  defenceless 
Spanish  soldiers  imprisoned  there.  This  act  of  barbarism  so 
inflamed  the  Spaniards  that  they  united  their  scattered  forces, 
besieged  the  city,  and  after  a brave  and  determined  effort 
captured  it.  Their  leader,  Calleja,  ordered  that  every  person 
captured,  regardless  of  age  or  sex,  should  be  slain.  This  sinis- 
ter order  was  carried  out,  and  so  many  innocent  persons  were 
slaughtered  that  the  Padre  Belaunzaren  threw  himself  at 
Calleja's  feet  and,  holding  up  an  image  of  Christ  on  the  cross, 
implored  a cessation  of  such  savagery. 

When  a few  months  later,  the  patriots  Hidalgo , Aldama, 
Allende  and  Jimenez  were  executed  at  Chihuahua  (p.  27), 
their  heads  were  brought  hither  and  hung  in  iron  cages  which 
swung  from  hooks  at  the  four  angles  of  the  structure.  Here 
they  remained  for  nearly  ten  years  para  escarmiento  de  los 
criminales  que  se  sacrifican  por  la  independencia  de  su  patria 
(as  a warning  to  the  criminals  who  sacrifice  themselves  for 
the  independence  of  their  country).  Four  days  after  the  pro- 
mulgation of  Independence,  March  28,  1821,  the  heads  were, 
at  the  instance  of  Colonel  Don  Anastasio  Bustamente , solemnly 
buried  in  the  pantheon  of  San  Sebastian.  There  they  remained 
until  Aug.  31,  1823,  when  they  were  removed  to  Mexico  City 
and  placed  in  the  crypt  beneath  the  Altar  de  los  Reyes  in  the 


GUANAJUATO 


82.  Roufe.  141 


Cathedral  (p.  280).  Later  they  were  removed  to  the  chapel 
of  San  Jose,  in  the  same  church,  where  they  now  rest  in  a 
crystal  urn  smothered  in  flowers. 

The  huge  hooks  which  held  the  iron  cages  in  which  the 
heads  were  exposed  remain  at  the  four  corners  of  the  Alhondiga. 

Perhaps  the  chief  “sight”  is  the  Pantedn  (cemetery)  on  the 
summit  of  the  Cerro  del  Trozado  (W.  of  the  city).  It  recalls 
the  Campo  Santo  of  Genoa  and  the  Roman  catacombs,  in 
the  manner  of  disposing  of  the  dead.  The  bodies  of  those  who 
can  afford  it  are  placed  in  the  cemetery  wall  for  a period  of 
five  years,  or  in  perpetuity.  Unless  the  receptacles  are  rented 
for  all  time  the  bodies  are  removed  at  the  end  of  five  years, 
and  the  bones  are  thrown  into  a common  ossuary.  Certain 
mummified  bodies  are  placed  in  standing  rows  along  the  walls 
of  the  vault,  covered  with  a sheet  from  the  chin  to  the  ankles, 
and  exposed  to  the  view  of  visitors.  (Small  fees  customary, 
but  not  necessary.)  The  sight  is  so  gruesome  that  one  scarcely 
ever  succeeds  in  effacing  it  from  the  mind.  Ladies  will  not 
enjoy  it  and  persons  with  “ nerves”  are  recommended  to  de- 
vote the  time  to  more  inspiring  sights. 

The  Palacio  Legislativo  (the  work  of  the  architect  Luis 
Long  and  the , decorators  Claudio  Molina  and  Nicolas  Gon- 
zalez), completed  in  1900  at  a cost  of  $150,000,  is  of  solid 
masonry,  three  stories  high  and  of  commanding  appearance. 
Here  the  state  assembly  meets  and  here  the  tribunals  of 
justice  grind  out  their  decrees.  In  one  of  the  salas  are  por- 
traits of  Miguel  Hidalgo  y Costilla,  President  Porjirio  Diaz, 
Benito  Juarez  and  the  patriots  Abasolo,  Aldama,  Cortazar  and 
Doblado. 

El  Teatro  Juarez,  erected  on  the  site  of  the  old  San 
Diego  Convent,  faces  the  Jardin  de  la  Union  and  is  the  pride 
of  the  city.  The  handsome  green  stone  of  which  it  is  constructed 
is  found  in  the  vicinity.  The  rich  and  costly  interior  decora- 
tions are  by  Herrera;  the  foyer  is  very  attractive.  The  8 alle- 
gorical figures  in  bronze  which  crown  the  edifice  are  the  work 
of  W.  H.  Mullins,  of  Salem,  Ohio,  U.  S.  A. 

The  Jardin  de  la  Union,  the  Plaza  Mayor,  and  the  Alameda 
del  Cantador  are  all  popular  and  attractive  promenades. 

The  State  College  ( Colegio  del  Estado)  contains  a fine 
collection  of  mineral  specimens  from  the  mines  in  the  vicinity. 
Open  all  day,  no  fees. 

The  Guanajuato  Club,  or  Casino,  is  open  to  visitors  by 
means  of  a visiting-card  secured  from  a resident  member. 

The  Guanajuato  Tramways  Co.  run  cars  to  La  Presa, 
La  Pastita  — where  the  huge  plant  of  the  Guanajuato  Electric 
Light  and  Power  Co.  is  located  — and  to  the  Bustos  Mine. 
A trip  to  the  end  of  the  different  lines  affords  a cheap  and 
quick  way  of  seeing  the  city  and  suburbs. 

Guanajuato  was  the  birthplace  of  Juan  B.  Morales,  who  is 


142  Route  32. 


GUANAJUATO 


The  Mines. 


enshrined  in  Mexican  literature  under  the  pseudonym  of 
GaRo  Pitagorico  (Pvthagoric  Cock).  In  the  Plaza  de  Mejia 
Mora  is  a mural  tablet  which  indicates  the  house  in  which  the 
eminent  Mexican  engineer  Benito  Leon  Acosta  was  born. 

The  Mines.  The  traveller  interested  in  the  mines  of  Guana- 
juato is  referred  to  the  bibliography,  at  p.  ccxxxix,  for  books 
treating  the  subject. 

“The  Churches  of  Guanajuato,  upon  which  a great  share 
of  the  vast  riches  here  produced  has  been  lavished,  have  lost 
much  of  their  old-time  splendor,  but  they  still  possess  a deal 
of  interest.  The  Church  of  San  Francisco , now  the  parochial 
church  (in  the  Calle  de  San  Francisco)  of  the  city,  was  origin- 
ally the  eh.  of  San  Juan  de  Dios,  begun  in  1671  and  completed 
in  1696.  In  1828,  when  it  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Fran- 
ciscans, the  ch.  was  subjected  to  a devastating  reconstruction 
that  injured  it  unspeakably  without  and  within.  With  its 
commanding  location  it  still  has  an  impressive  character. 
The  sacristy  and  the  adjacent  baptistry  are  at  present  the  best 
portions  of  the  interior  and  are  comparatively  unspoiled.  The 
sacristy,  which  was  added  to  the  ch.  in  1745,  is  a long  and 
lofty- vaulted  room  built  across  the  ch.  behind  the  high  altar. 
An  uncommon  feature  is  the  great  leaded  window  that  occu- 
pies the  bay  in  the  rear  of  the  high  altar  in  place  of  the  custom- 
ary tall  reredos.  This  window  admits  light  to  the  church  from 
the  dome  that  lights  the  sacristy.  The  large  painting  at  the 
head  of  the  sacristy,  The  Last  Supper  (by  Vallejo),  is  dated 
1777.  What  is  now  the  baptistry  was  formerly  the  camarin 
for  the  rich  vestments  of  the  famous  image  of  the  Virgin, 
known  as  Nuestra  Seuora  de  Guanajuato,1  venerated  in  the 
chapel  of  that  vocation,  adjoining  the  ch.  The  elaborate 
entrance  from  the  baptistry  to  the  sacristy  is  richly  decorated. 
The  carved  confessionals  in  this  ch.  are  among  the  few  surviv- 
ing fragments  of  the  elaborate  decorations  of  former  days. 


1 The  figurine  of  Nuestra  Serlora  de  Guanajuato  is  one  of  the  oldest  in 
Mexico  and  perhaps  one  of  the  most  venerated.  Its  history,  if  true,  is 
curious.  It  existed  in  Spain  in  the  7th  century  of  the  Christian  Era,  at 
which  epoch  it  was  held  in  great  veneration  at  Santa  Fe,  near  Granada. 
When  Spain  was  invaded  by  Moors  in  714.  the  image  was  taken  by  the 
devout  Granadans  and  hidden  in  a cave  to  save  it  from  desecration  by  the 
infidels.  It  remained  hidden  eight  and  a half  centuries;  its  miraculous 
origin  and  qualities  being  proven  by  the  fact  that  the  subterranean  hid- 
ing-place was  damp,  illy-ventilated  and  of  a nature  to  destroy  wood  or 
iron.  But  the  figure  was  preserved  from  the  slightest  disfiguration.  In 
1557  Felipe  II  was  so  pleased  by  the  vast  royalties  received  from  the 
Guanajuato  mines  that  he  presented  the  camp  with  the  figure  of  the 
Virgin . It  was  long  considered  the  Patroness  of  the  city  but  was  officially 
declared  so.  by  Papal  sanction,  in  November,  1907.  in  the  presence  of  a 
vast,  enthusiastic  concourse.  It  was  crowned  with  a beautiful  gem- 
studded  gold  crown  (weighs  2 kilos.)  June  1.  190$. 

The  figure,  which  is  of  wood,  is  crudely  made  and  could  not  be  called 
handsome.  Devotees  believe  it  incorruptible  by  time.  The  silver  pedestal 
and  the  beautiful  adornments  are  noteworthy. 


GUANAJUATO 


82.  Rte.  143 


“The  great  Jesuit  Temple,  known  as  La  Compania  (facing 
the  Plaza  de  la  Compania),  is  a church  of  magnificent  propor- 
tions, a length  of  207  ft.,  a breadth  of  94  and  an  interior  height 
of  66^  ft.  The  design  of  this  church  has  been  erroneously 
attributed  to  Tresguerras  (comp.  p.  cliii).  Its  architect  was 
a lay  brother  of  the  Bethlemite  order,  Fray  Jose  de  la  Cruz, 
and  the  work  proceeded  under  the  immediate  superintendence 
of  the  Jesuit  Fathers,  Ignacio  Rafael  Corim; ina  and  Jose  Joa- 
quin de  Sardaneta  y Legazpi,  the  latter  a kinsman  of  the 
enormously  wealthy  mining  magnate,  the  Marques  de  Rayas. 
The  church  was  begun  on  Aug.  6,  1747,  and  continued  for 
18  years,  the  architect  Don  Felipe  Acuna  eventually  succeed- 
ing Friar  de  la  Cruz  in  the  supervision  of  the  work.  The  dedi- 
cation took  place  on  Nov.  8,  1765. 

“ The  original  dome  is  said  to  have  been  a strikingly  majestic 
one.  But  through  carelessness  in  carrying  out  certain  pro- 
jected alterations  the  supporting  piers  were  so  weakened  that, 
on  Feb.  24,  1808,  the  enormous  mass  fell  in.  The  present 
dome  is  a modern  construction,  designed  by  Vicente  Heredia 
of  the  City  of  Mexico  — an  imposing  structure  with  a drum  of 
two  stories  and  superimposed  orders  of  colonnades  — hardly 
in  keeping  with  the  general  design  and  more  effective  as  a 
monumental  feature  in  the  landscape.  Indeed,  the  church 
is  so  shut  in  by  surrounding  buildings  in  the  narrow  valley 
that  near  at  hand  the  dome  is  not  seen  at  all,  and  the  effect 
of  the  great  structure  is  more  scenic  than  monumental.  For 
this  reason  the  somewhat  trivial  treatment  of  the  exterior 
ornamentation  — the  fagade,  a beautiful  blending  of  Baroque 
and  Churrigueresque,  and  the  theatrical  design  of  the  stumpy 
belfry  of  the  one  tower  — is  not  so  detrimental  as  it  otherwise 
might  be.  Quite  different,  however,  is  the  effect  of  the  spacious 
interior,  with  its  magnificently  proportioned  nave  and  aisles, 
the  harmonious  color  of  the  local  stone,  a grayish  brown, 
with  greenish  stones  blending  with  chocolate  in  the  altars. 
The  architect  of  the  modern  work  in  the  church  was  Don 
Herculano  Ramirez;  the  high  altar,  however,  is  by  the  archi- 
tect of  the  dome,  Sehor  Heredia.  The  sacristy,  an  uncom- 
monly lofty  and  imposing  room,  corresponds  in  its  location 
to  that  of  San  Francisco.”  (Sylvester  Baxter.) 

The  Church  of  San  Diego  in  the  Plaza  de  la  Union 
possesses  a particularly  fine  fagade  in  the  Churrigueresque 
style.  Mr.  Baxter  refers  to  this  as  “one  of  the  most  exquisite 
examples  of  this  style  to  be  found  in  Mexico  — an  architect- 
ural jewel  in  its  dainty  elegance.”  The  original  church  and 
convent,  built  in  1679,  were  destroyed  by  the  flood  of  July 
27,  1760,  whereupon  the  site  was  raised  to  a considerable 
elevation  and  the  present  beautiful  structure  erected.  The 
interior  has  suffered  so  much  restoration  that  it  is  now  without 
interest  to  the  traveller. 


144  Route  82.  GUANAJUATO  San  Cayetano. 

“About  2 M.  from  the  city  (J  M.  from  the  end  of  the 
‘Bustos’  car-line),  on  an  eminence  far  above  the  great  mass 
of  houses  spreading  through  the  narrow  valley,  commanding 
spacious  prospects  and  swept  by  free  airs,  stands  the  superb 
Church  of  San  Cayetano,  built  for  the  wonderful  Valenciana 
mine  by  its  proprietor,  the  Conde  de  Rul.  The  mine  was  once 
the  richest  of  the  Guanajuato  group,  its  output  having  been 
more  than  eight  hundred  million  pesos.  But  the  once  city- 
like village  which  it  dominates  — its  people  then  thronging 
the  splendid  space  of  the  great  church  — to-day  has  but  a 
handful  of  inhabitants.  In  the  presence  of  all  this  magnificence 
— a veritable  temple  of  riches  built  to  proclaim  the  glory  of 
God  with  the  might  of  man  — in  the  exhilarating  sun-filled 
calm  of  the  mountain  air,  together  with  a feeling  of  the  transit 
of  the  world’s  glories,  the  beholder  draws  a deep  breath  of  the 
peace  that  passeth  understanding. 

“ This  church  was  dedicated  on  Aug.  7,  1788.  Its  architect 
is  unknown,  the  archives  of  the  church  having  been  destroyed 
in  the  course  of  the  Mexican  struggle  for  Independence.  The 
original  plan  was  so  imposing  that  the  jealousy  of  the  parish 
cur  a at  Guanajuato  was  aroused.  He  claimed  that  license 
had  been  given  for  a chapel,  not  a basilica,  and  the  ensuing 
controversy  greatly  delayed  the  work  of  construction.  A 
compromise  was  finally  reached,  and  the  rank  of  the  church 
was  lowered  by  having  only  one  tower  complete.  It  is  related 
that  the  site  of  San  Cayetano  was  found  to  cover  one  of  the 
richest  mineral  deposits  in  the  great  mining  property,  and 
that  when  this  was  ascertained  the  Conde  de  Rul  was  offered 
an  enormous  sum  for  the  privilege  of  working  the  bonanza. 
Moreover  it  was  proposed  to  take  down  the  church  and  reerect 
it  stone  by  stone,  as  good  as  before,  on  another  site,  free  of 
cost.  The  Count,  however,  did  not  listen  to  the  offer. 

“ The  C hurrigueresque  ornament  of  the  exterior  shows  strong 
Arabesque  influences,  and  in  its  fineness  of  texture,  the  design 
is  quite  unlike  anything  else  in  Mexico.  This  is  particularly 
evident  in  the  side  portal.  There  are  three  splendid  Churri - 
gueresque  altars  in  the  church,  their  retables  occupying  the 
full  height  of  the  chancel  and  the  transept.  The  high  altar, 
dedicated  to  San  Cayetano , cost  $40,000.  The  church  has  for- 
tunately escaped  renovating  hands  and  is  preserved  in  well- 
nigh  its  original  condition.  It  is  kept  in  admirable  order. 
The  only  material  change  has  been  in  the  decoration  of  the 
walls  by  four  huge  and  indifferent  canvases  by  a Guanajuato 
painter.  The  interior  masonry  is  elaborately  carved,  and  very 
charming  is  the  way  in  which  the  stone-cutters  were  manifestly 
given  free  hand  in  the  relief  ornament  of  the  piers,  arches,  etc., 
the  designs  not  repeated,  but  showing  delicate  variations. 
The  coloring  of  the  interior  is  unusually  delicate.  The  walls 
are  of  a cream  white;  in  the  arches,  etc.,  the  relief  ornament 


STATE  OF  GUANAJUATO  32.  Rte.  145 


is  white  on  a straw-colored  ground,  and  the  same  is  the  case 
with  the  dome.  The  pulpit  is  perhaps  the  best  example  of  in- 
laid work  in  the  Queretaro  style  to  be  seen  in  Mexico. 

“ This  church  once  supported  a service  of  exceeding  magni- 
ficence, maintained  by  the  contribution  of  the  miners  at  work 
in  the  great  V alenciana.  Each  one  of  the  thousands  employed 
gave  every  week  the  value  of  a piece  of  ore  called  piedra  de 
mono  — a stone  the  size  of  the  hand.  This  produced  the  sum 
of  fifty  thousand  pesos  annually.  The  scale  of  expenditure 
that  characterized  the  building  and  adornment  of  San  Cayetano 
is  suggested  by  the  elaborate  temporary  ornament  provided  for 
its  dedication,  the  tissue  that  entered  into  its  composition 
costing  three  hundred  pesos  a yard.  At  present  only  one  priest 
is  in  charge  of  the  great  church.”  No  fees  necessary. 

Guanajuato,  one  of  the  most  favored  of  the  Central  Mexican 
States,  with  a pop.  of  1,061,724,  and  an  area  of  29,458  sqr. 
kilom.,  is  noted  for  its  immense  mineral  deposits  and  its  steady 
output  of  gold  and  silver  ores.  Its  boundaries  are:  San 
Luis  Potosi  on  the  N.,  Queretaro  on  the  E.,  Michoacan  on  the 
S.  and  Jalisco  on  the  W.  Its  resources  are  almost  limitless, 
its  fauna  and  flora  comprising  510  species.  The  flora  embraces 
23  kinds  of  wood,  44  fruit  trees  and  plants,  32  textiles,  11 
tanning  plants,  15  oleaginous  plants,  16  dyewoods,  80  or 
more  medicinal  plants,  12  forage  plants  (alfalfa  is  produced 
in  enormous  quantities,  several  crops  a year),  18  aromatic 
plants,  15  gums  and  resins  and  many  ornamental  flowers 
and  shrubs.  The  fauna  embraces  41  mammals,  206  birds,  44 
reptiles,  15  batrachians,  7 fishes  and  148  insects.  Corn,  wheat 
and  tobacco  to  a combined  value  of  about  $10,000,000  are 
raised  annually.  A specialty  of  the  state  is  canary-seed,  of 
which  considerable  quantities  are  exported. 

The  topographical  aspect  is  varied,  giving  rise  to  an  equally 
varied  climate.  Mountains  rise  from  almost  all  over  the  state. 
The  principal  cordilleras  traversing  it  are  the  Sierra  Gorda 
(fat  range)  on  the  northeast,  and  the  Sierra  de  Guanajuato 
in  the  centre.  The  highest  peaks  in  the  latter  are  El  Gigante 
(the  giant),  10,653  ft.;  Los  Llanitos  (little  plains),  11,013  ft. 
above  sea-level.  Smaller  ranges  extend  in  various  directions, 
forming  fertile  valleys  and  productive  plains.  A single  lake, 
Yuririapundaro  (lake  of  blood),  which  is  94  sqr.  kilom.  in 
extent  and  contains  several  small  islands,  lies  within  the 
state.  Mineral  springs  abound ; prominent  among  them  is  the 
spring  near  Silao,  of  Aguas  Buenas  (good  waters)  to  which 
the  Indians  attribute  miraculous  healing  qualities.  A casa 
de  banos  (bathing-house)  has  been  erected  here  for  their  ac- 
commodation. Near  the  town  of  Irapuato  (p.  126)  is  a spring 
called  Lodos  de  Munguia  (Mungia’s  mud  spring) ; a mixture 
of  mineral  water  and  argillaceous  earth  into  which  the  invalid 
immerses  himself  to  the  chin : remaining  thus  for  a short  time 


146  Route  32.  GUANAJUATO  History. 

he  emerges,  bathes  in  hot  water,  then  sweats  out  his  ailment. 
The  spring  is  highly  spoken  of  as  a cure  for  rheumatic  com- 
plaints. A third  spring  is  located  near  the  Plaza  Principal 
in  Celaya  (p.  127)  and  is  the  favorite  bathing-resort  of  the 
inhabitants  of  that  town. 

Within  the  borders  of  the  state  are  50  flour-mills  and  many 
manufactories  of  straw  hats,  pottery,  wines,  saddles,  etc. 

The  Climate  is  healthful,  albeit  parts  of  the  state  lie  within 
the  tropical  zone.  In  the  mountain  towns  it  is  often  cold; 
owing  to  the  altitude  of  the  plains  it  is  never  very  hot.  The 
summer  rains  temper  the  air.  The  prevailing  winds  are  from 
the  X.-E.,  changing  to  S.-E.  at  the  approach  of  the  rainy  season 
— June  to  October. 

Historical  Sketch.  At  the  time  of  the  Conquest  the  chief 
city  was  Yuririapundaro,  governed  by  a Tarascan  cacique 
quick-witted  enough  to  realize  that  his  life  depended  upon 
his  rapid  conversion  to  the  Catholic  faith.  He  promptly  be- 
came so  devout  that  even  his  name  was  changed  and  in  his- 
tory he  is  known  as  Alonso  de  Sosa  (Alphonsus  Soda).  The 
followers  of  Alphonsus  who  preferred  the  faith  of  their  fore- 
fathers to  that  of  the  iron-handed  Conquistadores  were  quickly 
exterminated. 

Under  the  guidance  of  the  cacique  of  Jilotepec  (a  blood  re- 
lation of  Montezuma),  the  Spaniards  conquered  Acdmbaro 
and  entered  the  confines  of  Guanajuato  in  1526.  The  natives 
soon  became  dissatisfied  with  their  new  masters,  and  they  car- 
ried on  a long  and  relentless  war  against  them.  The  uprising 
was  finally  quelled  and  at  the  instance  of  the  Viceroy,  a num- 
ber of  Tlascalan  and  Mexican  families  settled  in  the  country. 
The  most  important  cities  of  the  state  were  founded  between 
1599  and  1602,  as  by  this  time  the  errant  Indians  were  killed 
or  reduced  to  bondage.  Soon  thereafter  the  Viceroy  Don 
Gas  par  de  Zuniga  y Acevedo  took  possession  in  the  name  of 
the  Spanish  Crown.  Two  centuries  later  this  state  was  the 
cradle  of  Mexican  Independence  and  from  it  went  forth  the 
famous  grito  (p.  cci)  which  resulted  in  the  expulsion  of  the  Ibe- 
rians from  Mexican  soil. 


V.  CENTRAL-WESTERN  MEXICO, 


33.  From  Irapuato  via  Lake  Chapala  to  Guadalajara 

(thence  to  Colima  and  Manzanillo) 148 

From  Yurecuaro  to  Los  Reyes,  149.  — Zamora,  149. — 
Ocotlan,151.  — From  Ocotlan  to  Atotonilco,  151. — El 
Lago  de  Chapala,  151. — From  Atequisa  Station  to 
the  Lake,  151.  — Ribera  Castellanos,  155.  — Hunting 
and  Fishing,  155.  — The  Island  of  Mescala,  156. 

34.  The  Falls  of  Juanacatlan  159 

35.  Guadalajara 161 

Arrival,  161.  — Hotels,  161.  — Means  of  Transportation, 

161. — Post  and  Telegraph  Offices, 162.  - — Banks, 162.  — 
Shops,  162. — Cafes.  162. — Situation,  History  and  Char- 
acter of  the  City,  162. — The  Plaza  Mayor,  El  Palacio, 

La  Catedral,  etc., 164.  — The  Laguna  del  Agua  Azul,178. 

Excursions  from  Guadalajara,  178. 

Zapopan,  178. 

Barranca  de  Oblatos,  178. 

San  Pedro  Tlaquepaque,  179.  — State  of  Jalisco,  181. 

36.  From  Guadalajara  via  Zapotlan,  Tuxpan  and 

Colima  to  Manzanillo 183 

Colima  City,  185.  — El  Volcan  de  Colima,  186.  — Man- 
zanillo, 188.  — Colima  State,  189. 

37.  From  Mexico  City  via  Toluca,  Maravatio,  Ac&m- 

baro,  Morelia  and  Patzcuaro  to  Uruapan  . . . 191 

San  Bartolo  Naucalpan,  191.  — Nuestra  Senora  de  los 
Remedios,  191. 

38.  Toluca 194 

Nuestra  Senora  de  Tecajic,  198.  — El  Nevado,  198. — 

From  Toluca  to  Tenango,  198.  — State  of  Mexico,  198. 

— Real  del  Oro,  199.  — Maravatio,  200.  — From  Mar- 
avatio to  Zitacuaro,  200.  — Acambaro,  200. 

39.  Morelia 202 

History  and  Character  of  the  City,  202.  — The  Aque- 
duct, 208. 

40.  Patzcuaro 209 

El  Calvario,  212. — Lake  Patzcuaro,  213.  — Fishing  and 
Hunting,  214.  — Xanicho,  214.  — Tzintzuntzan,  215.  — 

The  Parish  Church  of  Tzintzuntzan,  215.  — The  En- 
tombment, 215. — Iguatzio,  216. — History  of  Michoacan 
and  the  Lake  Patzcuaro  Region,  217.  — The  Tarascan 
Indians,  218.  — State  of  Michoacan  de  Ocampo,  224. — 

Lake  Zirahuen,  226. 

41.  Uruapan 227 

Uruapan  Lacquer-Ware,  229.  — The  Waterfall  of  Tzara- 
racua,  229. — From  Uruapan  to  the  Pacific  Coast,  230. 


148  Rout 9 33. 


LA  PIEDAD 


33.  From  Irapuato  via  Lake  Chapala  to  Guada- 
lajara ( thence  to  Colima  and  Manzanillo) . 

260  Kilom.  Through  trains  from  Mexico  City.  No  transfers.  Pullman 
buffet.  For  fares,  etc.,  see  p.  xxxi. 

Irapuato,  see  p.  126.  The  railway  parallels  the  main  line 
for  a short  distance,  then  describes  a wide  curve  and  trends 
toward  the  north-west  across  a fertile,  level  region  bathed  in 
sempiternal  sunshine,  vocal  with  whistling  kites  and  calling 
doves,  and  devoted  to  the  cultivation  of  strawberries,  fruits 
and  maize.  Many  primitive  well-sweeps  are  features  of  the 
landscape.  On,  the  left  we  get  attractive  vistas  of  the  church 
towers  and  domes  peering  above  the  mesquite  trees.  Many 
of  the  small  stations  — 6 K.  Charcos;  17  K.  Rivera ; 24  K.  Joa- 
quin; 32  K.  Abasolo;  39  K.  Vargas  — are  fruit  markets  in 
embryo  where  the  traveller  is  urged  to  buy  everything  in 
the  vegetable  range  from  peanuts  to  watermelons.  The  land 
is  amazingly  productive,  and  the  streams  which  flow  down 
from  the  distant  hills  are  harnessed  and  led  away  through 
acequias  (irrigating-ditches)  and  weirs  before  being  permitted  I 
to  continue  their  whimpering  way  to  the  distant  lowlands. 

50  K.  Penjamo,  in  a rich  and  finely  watered  district.  The 
village  lies  about  5 kilom.  to  the  right  of  the  railway  and  is 
reached  by  a tram-line  (fare  12  c.)  whose  cars  await  the  arrival 
of  trains. 

Trunks  can  be  loaded  on  to  the  platform  car  ( plataforma ) at  from  12  to 
15  c.  each,  according  to  weight.  Hotel  de  Guadalupe  ; rooms  50  c.  to  SI  ; 
three  meals  SI  inclusive. 

The  town  contains  nothing  to  interest  the  traveller.  Not 
far  away  is  the  village  of  Dolores  Hidalgo  (p.  104),  birthplace 
of  the  revolutionary  patriot  Miguel  Hidalgo  y Costilla. 

A low  range  of  verdure-covered  hills  follows  the  rly.  line 
on  the  1.  During  the  rainy  season  many  lakelets  form  in  the  | 
lowlands  and  the  entire  country  is  gay  with  pink  and  vari-  I 
colored  wild-flowers.  65  K.  Villasenor.  72  K.  Palo  Verde. 
85  K.  Cortes. 

92  K.  La  Piedad,  picturesquely  situated  on  the  banks  of  | 
the  Lerma  River , 3 M.  from  the  rly.  station.  Tram-cars  meet 
all  trains;  fare  12  c. ; luggage  15-25  c.  (on  the  platform  car). 
Gran  Hotel  Central , facing  the  Plaza  de  Armas;  SI. 75  to  S3 
Am.  PI. — Hotel  Nacional,  Calle  de  Cebadas  9;  Hotel  \ 
Guerra , Calle  Primera  Nacional  5;  both  SI. 50  to  S3  Am.  PI. 

The  unprogressive  town  of  La  Piedad  lies  on  the  slope  of  a 
high  hill,  in  a region  called  the  granary  of  Mexico.  Behind 
the  town  a fine  range  of  blue  hills  extends  to  the  distant  hori- 
zon. The  single  church  is  uninteresting.  The  climate  is  mild 
and  equable  and  the  district  recalls  certain  of  the  fine  agri- 
cultural regions  of  Illinois  or  Kansas  (U.  S.  A.).  Sugar-cane, 


Los  Reyes. 


ZAMORA 


88.  Route.  149 


tobacco,  beans,  and  a variety  of  grains  grow  almost  as  pro- 
lifically  as  the  fine  fruits  — for  which  the  district  is  noted. 
In  the  bottom-lands  the  soil  is  rich,  black  and  deep,  and  the 
entire  region  is  highly  cultivated.  Many  of  the  near-by  ha- 
cendados  (farmers)  dwell  in  La  Piedad,  and  the  country  pro- 
duce is  transported  to  the  town,  thence  to  the  rly.,  in  primi- 
tive ox-carts  with  huge  wood  wheels  and  springless  axles. 

Many  of  the  fat  cattle,  hogs  and  goats  for  the  city  markets 
come  from  this  section.  105  K.  Patti.  118  K.  Monteleon.  Fine 
views  across  the  valley  to  the  1. ; in  the  lowlands  a prosperous- 
looking  hacienda  with  several  tile-roofed  houses  shows  finely 
against  the  green  vegetation.  We  follow  the  crest  of  the 
ridge;  then  descend  into  the  valley. 

126  K.  Yurecuaro,  point  of  departure  for  a branch  rail- 
way line  ( Ramal  de  Zamora)  to  138  K.  Los  Reyes. 

One  train  daily  in  8 hrs:  fare  $4.14  1st  cl.  The  most  important  inter- 
mediate station  is 

40  K.  Zamora,  in  a picturesque  valley  of  the  same  name  ( State  of 
Michoacan ),  with  15,000  inhab.  The  town  is  finely  situated  on  the  Duero 
River , which  rises  in  the  district  and  empties  into  Lake  Chapala.  The 
environing  country  is  in  a state  of  high  cultivation,  and  it  contains  a 
number  of  rich  and  productive  haciendas.  The  land  is  astonishingly 
fertile;  the  town  is  the  chosen  residence  of  many  of  the  land-owners 
roundabout.  Zamora  lives  in  the  Spanish  language  in  a proverb  ( refran ) 
to  the  effect  that  “ No  se  gano  Zamora  en  una  hora ” — the  Spanish 
equivalent  of  “Rome  was  not  built  in  a day.”  The  town  is  named  for  the 
fine  old  fortified  Spanish  city  of  Zamora,  which  in  turn  derives  its  name 
from  the  Arabic  Samurah,  a sheepskin  jacket  much  worn  by  the  peas- 
antry of  that  region.  Tram-cars  connect  Zamora  station  with  the  town; 
fare,  5 c.;  trunks,  25  c.  Hotel  Mexico , Oalle  Primera  de  Guerrero,  13  (near 
the  Plaza  Principal) , $1.50  to  $3  Am.  PI.  The  upper  rooms  with  the 
balconies  are  the  best.  French,  Spanish  and  Mexican  cooking.  Baths, 
25  c.  — Gran  Hotel  y Restaurant  Colon , in  the  Portal  de  Allende  (facing 
the  plaza)\  rooms  only,  50  c.;  with  three  meals,  $1.50. — Gran  Hotel 
, Porfirio  Diaz,  facing  the  plaza;  rooms,  75  c.;  with  meals,  $1.50.  The 
, tram-cars  run  from  Zamora  to  several  pretty  suburban  towns. 

Westward  from  Zamora  the  railway  traverses  some  beautiful  country 
sprinkled  with  fine  valleys,  to  62  K.  Chivinde , in  the  foothills. 

I1  119  K.  Tinguindin  is  one  of  the  oldest  settlements  in  Mexico.  It  was 

a Tarascan  village  hoary  with  age  when  the  blow  of  Conquest  fell  on  the 
Aztecs  in  the  Valley  of  Mexico.  Its  location,  on  the  edge  of  the  tierra 
I caliente,  gives  it  an  equable  and  delightful  climate.  Rivulets  of  cool 
I mountain  water  traverse  the  narrow  streets  and  flow  on  as  uneventfully 
| as  the  lives  of  the  primitive  people.  The  hamlet  and  its  customs  have 
I changed  but  little  since  the  Spaniards  came.  Hence  to  138  K.  Los  Reyes 
(the  kings)  the  line  traverses  (down-grade)  a thickly  wooded  district. 

Thirty  miles  northward  of  Yurecuaro  lies  Ayo  el  Chico , 
noted  for  its  luscious  oranges ; two  hundred  or  more  car-loads 
of  this  fine  fruit  are  shipped  during  the  season  (June  to  Jan.) 
ij  to  the  United  States,  where  it  is  prized.  Oranges  also  thrive 
in  Yurecuaro.  The  quaint  old  church  with  a red  tower,  visible 
to  the  right  of  the  station,  nestles  amid  orange  groves. 

Continuing  westward  we  traverse  a broken  country  and 
I thread  a series  of  valleys  until  the  train  emerges  from  a rocky 
pass  and  reaches  a bit  of  highland  whence  we  get  a beautiful 
and  extensive  view  of  the  wide  (to  the  left)  La  Barca  Valley. 


150  Route  33. 


LA  BARCA 


In  the  far  distance  a range  of  blue  mts.  cuts  the  sky-line; 
many  small  villages,  each  with  its  diminutive  ch.  and  glisten- 
ing spire  shining  in  the  sun,  dot  the  intervening  country.  On 
the  broad  haciendas  of  the  valley  some  of  the  finest  oranges 
in  Mexico  are  produced.  The  region  is  a sportsman’s  (comp.  p. 
lxxvii)  paradise.  During  the  brief  and  delightfully  cool  period 
called  the  “ Mexican  winter,”  it  is  the  abiding-place  of  count- 
less pelicans,  cranes,  geese,  brant,  ducks,  snipe,  plover,  and 
immense  swarms  of  pretty,  yellow-headed  blackbirds.  Small 
bayous  and  marshes  cut  up  some  of  the  lowlands  and  in  a dug- 
out  one  may  paddle  for  miles  through  the  narrow  water-lanes 
connecting  the  ponds  and  lakelets.  The  wheat-  and  corn-fields 
of  the  higher  lands  afford  rich  feeding-grounds  for  the  birds, 
which  are  rarely  molested  by  the  natives.  The  climate  is  de- 
licious — a perpetual  Indian  Summer  which  is  akin  to  that 
of  the  Chapala  district  at  the  W.  end  of  the  valley.  The  peo- 
ple are,  as  a rule,  hospitable  and  obliging.  Some  of  the  cus- 
toms of  the  inland  districts  are  primitive  and  quaint.  Stone 
corrals  and  fences  hem  in  the  tiny,  straw-thatched  dwellings; 
some  of  the  spireless  churches  have  no  belfries  and  the  bells 
are  hung  from  the  limbs  of  near-by  trees.  A daily  train  will 
carry  the  traveller  E.  or  W. 

147  K.  Negrete,  a straggling  town  visible  on  the  left.  A nat- 
ive buckboard  conveys  passengers  thence  for  25  c.  per  per- 
son. The  line  skirts  the  edge  of  the  productive  La  Barca  Valley 
and  traverses  vast  haciendas  which  recall  the  extensive  cattle- 
ranches  of  the  South-west  of  the  U.  S.  A.  The  valley  broadens 
and  we  cross  a fine  steel  bridge  spanning  the  Lerma  River. 

154  K.  La  Barca  (the  barge),  a sun-baked  town  four  miles 
to  the  south  of  the  station  (left)  on  the  Lerma.  Tram-cars 
meet  all  trains,  10  c.  Gran  Hotel  Berlin,  facing  the  Plaza  Princi- 
pal ; SI  .50  to  $2.50  Am.  PI. ; English  spoken.  Trunks  may  be 
sent  up  to  the  hotel  (which  faces  the  tram-line)  for  10-25  c. 
according  to  weight.  At  the  rlv.  station  there  is  a refresh- 
ment room  (meals  SI);  good  roast  wild-duck  (from  the 
near-by  marshes)  and  buttermilk  ( leche  de  mantequilla) . 

A quaint,  weather-beaten  old  parochial  church  and  a crumb- 
ling Palacio  Municipal  are  the  chief  buildings  of  the  town. 
Fine  fruits  are  specialties  of  the  region  and  many  varieties 
are  offered  for  sale  at  the  rly.  station  — along  with  cheese, 
milk,  butter  and  similar  products.  The  adjacent  marshes 
are  usually  alive  with  water-fowl.  158  K.  Feliciano.  167  K. 
Limon. 

In  the  summer  and  early  fall  when  ploughing  for  the  winter 
wheat  is  underway,  many  white- trousered  peones,  with 
oxen  and  primitive  wooden  plows,  are  seen  at  work  in  the  ad- 
jacent fields.  The  red  blankets  (usually  tucked  in  the  branches 
of  mesquite  trees)  of  the  workers  form  strong  color  notes  in 
a landscape  where  the  herbage  is  nearly  always  a vivid  green. 


Lake  Chapala. 


OCOTLAN 


38.  Route.  151 


The  land  is  dotted  with  cane-fields  which  usually  show  a lighter 
green  — a mere  lightening  of  shade  — against  the  deeper 
hues  of  alfalfa,  corn,  wheat  and  barley. 

180  K.  Ocotlan,  where  west-bound  passengers  for  Lake 
Chapala  descend  from  the  train.  Tram-cars  to  the  town 
(visible  in  the  distance),  10  c.;  trunks,  15-25  c.  A runner  of 
the  Hotel  Ribera  Castellanos  (see  p.  155)  usually  meets 
trains. 

Ocotlan  ( Nahuatl  = place  of  the  pines)  lies  in  the  earth- 
quake belt  and  the  town  has  suffered  repeated  shocks  during 
its  existence.  The  brown-stone  Parochial  Church  (uninterest- 
ing), which  faces  the  small,  tidy  Plaza  Mayor,  and  the  quaint 
old  Spanish  bridge  hard  by  are  badly  cracked.  The  ch.  has 
been  twice  destroyed  completely. 

A Branch  Rly.  Line  ( Ramalde  Atotonilco)  runs  hence  (1  train  daily  in 
1^  hrs.;  consult  the  Guia  Oficial ) toward  the  North  to  35  K .Atotonilco, 
in  a fine  orange-producing  region.  Hundreds  of  freight-cars  take  the 
products  of  the  vast  groves  to  Mexico  City  (also  to  the  U.  S.  A.),  where 
the  fruit  is  in  special  demand.  Some  delicious  naval  (seedless)  oranges 
are  grown  hereabout. 

For  a continuation  of  the  journey  to  Guadalajara  see  p.  158. 

El  Lago  de  Chapala.  Chapala  Village , at  the  N.  end  of 
the  lake,  is  reached  in  3-4  hrs.  by  a steam  launch  (p.  155) 
which  plies  between  the  village  and  Ocotlan.  A popular 
method  of  reaching  Chapala  is  to  descend  from  the  train 
at  Atequisa  station  (p.  159)  and  travel  thence  by  diligence 
(i diligencia , stage-coach).  Distance  about  16  kilom. ; time  about 
3 hrs.;  fare  SI. 50  each  way.  A special  conveyance  ( guayin ) 
can  be  had  for  a small  party  (about  4)  at  an  inclusive 
charge  of  $5  for  the  journey.  During  the  rainy  season 
(June-Sept.)  horses  are  sometimes  substituted  for  the  dili- 
gencia, because  of  bad  roads. 

An  advantage  of  the  stage-ride  is  the  glimpse  one  gets  of  Mexican 
country  life.  A cross-country  ride  always  carries  a peculiar  charm  with 
it,  and  this  is  particularly  so  in  Mexico  where  the  quaint,  old-time  Con- 
cord stages  — pushed  beyond  the  frontier  by  the  swifter  railways  — 
are  still  in  vogue.  A ride  in  one  of  them  nearly  always  carries  one’s 
thoughts  back  to  the  golden  sunset  flamings  of  the  old  Colonial  days.  In 
Mexico  from  3 to  9 mules  are  needed  to  draw  these  cumbrous  equipages: 
where  the  roads  lead  over  stiffish  grades  the  animals  are  hitched  tandem 
at  times  in  sets  of  three  abreast.  Were  it  not  for  a unique  local  custom 
the  cocheros  would  find  it  difficult  to  hand  an  admonitory  message,  as  a 
speed  encourager,  to  the  head  of  one  of  these  trios.  Instead  of  a whip  the 
driver  carries  a number  of  stones  neatly  piled  on  the  pescante  beside  him. 
When  one  of  the  leaders  shirks  he  hurls  one  of  these  stones  at  him,  and 
with  a dexterity  born  of  long  practice,  lands  it  with  stinging  force  im- 
mediately behind  the  ear  of  the  “ soldier.”  To  the  equine  mind  no  doubt 
this  accuracy  is  worthy  of  a better  cause.  Its  result  is  usually  a plunge, 
a snort,  the  uplifting  of  a pair  of  vengeful  heels,  then  a spirited  dash  for 
a mile  or  more  — The  coach  swaying  and  creaking  on  its  leathern  hinges 
as  the  excited  animals  plunge  along.  But  where  the  leader  is  without 
blinders  the  effect  is  often  different.  With  equally  noticeable  skill  — 
a cunning  perhaps  developed  in  direct  ratio  to  the  driver’s  ability  — the 
mule,  though  ostensibly  gazing  straight  ahead,  will  deftly  dodge  the 


152  Route  33.  CHAPALA  VILLAGE 


hurtling  missile.  At  the  first  sign  of  “tracers”  discharged  in  growing 
wrath  he  forthwith  abandons  his  straight-away  travelling  and  runs  half 
sidewise,  with  one  eye  fixed  on  the  road  and  the  other  turned  apprehen- 
sively toward  the  rear.  As  this  manoeuvre  usually  disturbs  the  moral 
equilibrium  of  the  troop,  the  arriero  soon  decides  to  forget  the  past,  and 
peace  is  declared. 

A night  ride  on  a diligencia  is  generally  very  picturesque.  A lackey 
accompanies  the  driver  and  holds  aloft  flaring  pine  torches  which  cast  a 
weird  light  over  the  landscape  and  the  speeding  animals. 

The  road  leads  out  from  Atequisa  ( diligencia  station  hard  by 
the  rly.)  past  a big  mill  and  an  hacienda  of  the  same  name, 
and  plunges  at  once  into  the  foot-hills.  On  clear  days,  Colima 
(p.  1^6),  90  miles  distant,  is  visible  on  the  right.  The  high- 
way traverses  a district  of  rolling  hills,  flower-dotted  valleys 
and  wind-swept  highlands  whence  fine  views  of  the  surround- 
ing country  are  had.  Long  before  the  lake  is  reached  V-shaped 
lines  of  wild-fowl  may  be  seen  winging  their  flight  high 
above. 

At  times  the  road  narrows  to  a mere  trail,  and  as  we  wind 
around  sharp  declivities  one’s  thoughts  hark  back  to  Yosemite 
drives  and  to  similar  trips  across  the  great  Sierras  of  the 
North-west.  The  rancher  os  one  meets  here  obey  the  rural 
custom  of  going  heavily  armed;  some  carry  revolvers  only, 
stuck  into  silver-bespangled  holsters,  while  others  carry  rifles 
and  sabres.  The  omnipresent  lariat  usually  hangs  from  the 
pommel  of  the  gayly-caparisoned  saddle,  and  it  is  just  as 
ready  to  drag  an  unwary  man  from  his  saddle  as  to  check 
the  headlong  career  of  a recalcitrant  steer.  Albeit  the  days 
of  brigandage  in  Mexico  are  past,  the  timid  traveller  finds 
it  easy  to  recall  the  times  when  bandidos  haunted  this  same 
highway,  stripped  unfortunate  travellers  of  every  stitch  of 
clothing  and  usually  sent  them  into  Chapala  clad  in  rustling 
newspapers  pinned  together  with  mimosa  thorns. 

The  diligencia  generally  draws  up  in  front  of  one  of  the 
several  hotels  at  Chapala  Village. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  Hotel  Arzopala,  facing  the  lake;  $2.50  to  $4 
Am.  PI.,  according  to  location  of  room.  The  upper  rooms  command 
better  views  than  those  on  the  ground  floor.  Spanish  cooking  and  man- 
agement. — Hotel  Victor  Hugo , $2  to  $2.50  Am.  PI.  — Hotel  de  la  Palma , 
$2  to  $2.50  Am.  PI.  Lower  rates  for  a prolonged  stay  in  all  the  hotels. 

Boats.  Launch  on  the  lake  (consult  the  hotel  manager),  $5  an  hour, 
inclusive  charge  for  a party  of  10  or  less.  To  Ocotlan , $3;  round  trip,  $5. 
Row-boats,  75  c.  an  hr.  Each  boat  will  hold  three  or  four  persons  com- 
fortably. The  above  rates  also  apply  to  boats  at  other  towns  on  the  lake. 
El  Viento  is  the  name  given  by  the  fishermen  to  a sudden  squall  that 
sometimes  breaks  over  the  lake.  In  a steam-launch  one  is  generally 
protected,  but  one  is  usually  in  for  a fright  and  a wetting  if  caught  out  in 
an  open  boat.  Excursions  should  always  be  planned  with  the  assistance 
of  the  hotel  manager;  he  should  also  be  asked  to  fix  the  boatmen’s  fees. 

El  Lago  de  Chapala,  sometimes  called  El  Mar  Chapalico , 
— Chapalan  Sea,  — 70  M.  long  by  20  M.  wide,  with  a superficial 
area  of  270  sq.  miles;  largest  of  the  Mexican  lakes  (comp, 
the  accompanying  plan)  in  a beautiful  lake-region  on  the 


EL  LAGO  DE  CHAPALA  33.  life.  153 


boundary  line  between  the  states  of  Jalisco  and  Michoacan 
(£  only  of  the  area  lies  in  Michoacan) , is  20  M.  east  of  Guada- 
lajara and  110  M.  west  of  Irapuato,  and  is  5,159  ft.  above 
sea-level  — almost  a mile  higher  than  the  dome  of  the  Boston 
State  House,  the  Brooklyn  Bridge  or  the  atrium  of  St.  Paul’s 
Cathedral  at  London.  The  depth  ranges  from  9 to  18  ft.  The 
name  Chapala , or  Chapalal,  is  a Nahuatl  Indian  word  in 
onomatopoetic  imitation  of  the  sound  of  the  waves  playing 
on  the  beach.  The  sweet  waters  teem  with  fish  (there  is  a 
project  on  foot  to  stock  the  lake  with  Bass)  and  game-haunted 
woodlands  stretch  along  parts  of  the  shore.  The  sunset  effects 
on  the  lake  are  sometimes  very  fine.  The  region  was  once  the 
resort  of  prehistoric  mastodons,  the  bones  of  several  of  which 
have  been  found.  A number  of  picturesque  hamlets  flank 
the  lake  at  different  points  and  boats  ply  between  them. 

The  Climate  of  the  region  is  that  of  a perpetual  Indian 
Summer  — a winter  haven  for  countless  storm-driven  wild- 
fowl which  seek  it  on  their  annual  flight  from  the  cold  North. 

The  natives  hold  the  somewhat  singular  belief  that  the  migratory  birds 
come  hither  in  search  of  cool  weather,  since  they  arrive  at  the  beginning 
of  the  Mexican  winter  and  depart  with  the  first  breath  of  spring.  Many 
birds  remain  throughout  the  year, and  the  species  are  “as  thick  as  leaves 
in  V allambrosa.”  They  dwell  here  practically  undisturbed  and  they  soon 
become  almost  as  tame  as  barnyard  fowls. 

“Here  the  timid  survivors  of  the  beautiful,  snow-white 
American  Egret  dwell  in  security,  and  here,  too,  the  Great 
Western  Grebe,  ‘ whose  silky  breast  finds  deadly  favor  in 
other  supposedly  tender  breasts,’  survives  practically  un- 
molested.” Watchful,  but  unfrightened  Loons  laugh  and  flit 
through  the  marshes,  and  clouds  of  White  Pelicans  sail  over- 
head or  wheel  and  scream  and  fish  in  the  shallow  outlets 
of  the  lake. 

To  the  ornithologist  Chapala  and  its  environs  are  a sustained 
delight.  “Countless  thousands  of  wild-fowl  and  song-birds 
make  this  elysium  the  Mecca  of  their  southern  flight.  A small 
world  of  birds  winter  on  these  friendly  marshes  — an  orni- 
thological congress  in  which  are  represented  almost  every 
district,  perchance,  of  the  great  North-land  and  the  country 
which  lies  between.  In  flocks  of  many  thousands  come  birds 
of  every  size  and  hue,  from  the  microscopic  Blue-Crowned 
Hummingbird  to  the  Snow-Goose  of  Alberta;  and  from  the 
jet-black  Raven  of  New  England  to  the  brilliant  Cockatoo 
of  the  tropics.  A more  varied  and  beautiful  assemblage  would 
be  difficult  to  imagine.  Such  a mingling  of  feathered  nations 
in  a land  of  perpetual  summer;  where  winsome  blue  skies 
smile  upon  flower-decked  fields,  and  sweet-smelling  copses 
are  eternally  wooed  by  perfume-laden  breezes,  is  more  to  the 
lover  of  Nature  than  all  the  world  expositions  that  could  be 
crowded  together  in  a double  century.” 


154  Rte.  83.  EL  LAGO  DE  CHAPALA 


A gifted  American  writer,1  referring  to  the  Chapala  district, 
says:  “The  air  was  filled  with  a multitude  of  sweet  notes  — 
half  strange,  half  familiar  — and  the  sight  of  scores  of  bril- 
liant yellow  breasts,  crescent-marked,  turned  toward  us, 
told  us  that  it  was  a hint  of  Meadowlark  music  which  puzzled 
our  memory.  But  this  melody  was  very  unlike  the  sharp, 
steel  tones  which  ring  so  true  across  the  frost-gemmed  fields 
of  our  Northland  in  early  spring.  The  larks  looked  very  little 
different  from  our  Northern  birds;  their  backs  perhaps  darker 
and  their  breasts  of  a warmer,  more  orange  yellow\  This 
genial,  tropical  air  has  thawed  their  voices  and  softened  their 
tones,  and  the  sweetest  of  choruses  came  from  the  throats 
of  these  Mexican  Meadowlarks.  . . . 

“We  saw  a misty,  dun-colored  cloud  slowly  disentangling 
itself  from  the  marsh.  Untold  numbers  of  White-fronted 
Geese  drifted  slowly  off  toward  the  lake.  We  realized  that  w*e 
were  looking  at  enormous  flocks  of  Snow-Geese  taking  to 
wing,  — one  of  the  most  beautiful  sights  in  the  world  of  birds. 
A small  flock  of  White-fronted  Geese  passes  rapidly  overhead, 
not  very  high  up,  when  all  at  once  there  floats  into  view  cloud 
after  cloud  of  purest  white,  stained  on  one  edge  by  the  gold 
of  the  setting  sun.  We  look  up  until  our  bodies  ache,  and  still 
they  come,  silently  driving  into  the  darkening  north.  The 
great  imperative  call  of  the  year  has  sounded;  the  drawing 
which  brooks  no  refusal.  Our  letters  from  the  North  tell  of 
snow  and  blizzards  — the  most  terrible  winter  for  many  years. 
No  hint  of  spring  has  yet  been  felt  there,  while  here  in  the 
tropics  no  frost  or  snow  has  come  through  the  winter,  food 
is  abundant,  hunters  few;  yet  a summons  has  pulsed  through 
the  finer  arteries  of  Nature,  intangible  to  us,  omnipotent  to 
the  birds.  Until  dark,  and  no  one  can  tell  how  long  after, 
the  Snow-Geese  of  Labrador,  of  Hudson  Bay,  of  Greenland, 
of  Alaska,  perhaps  of  lands  still  unknown,  speed  northward.” 

Brown  Towhees  and  Curve-billed  Thrashers  people  the  en- 
vironing chaparral  with  their  chattering  hosts;  Sandpipers 
skate  along  the  banks  of  small  lagoons,  elusive  Coots  dive  in 
and  out  of  the  tepid  waters,  and  dainty  little  Scaup  Ducks 
float  like  painted  toy  sail-boats  on  the  shimmering  surface. 
u Scattered  through  these  lagoons  are  tiny  islets  whose  surfaces 
are  covered  with  Ducks  and  Geese  and  Pelicans  sleeping  or 
preening  themselves  in  the  warm  sunlight.  At  certain  seasons 
untold  thousands  of  Pintails  and  Widgeons  bid  adios  to  their 
winter  rendezvous  and  trim  their  new  sails  toward  the  calling 
North.  Bicolored  Blackbirds  and  sweet-throated  Meadow- 
larks in  careering  multitudes  add  touches  of  color  and  music 
to  the  peaceful  assemblage  — peaceful  because  even  the  most 
timid  Yellowhead  and  Redwings  appear  unconcerned  in  the 
presence  of  numberless  Sennett  White-tailed  Hawks  that 


1 C.  William  Beebe4  Two  Bird-Lovers  in  Mexico  (Boston,  1905). 


RIBERA  CASTELLANOS  33.  Route.  155 


wheel  and  skirl  through  the  upper  air.  Here  one  gains  the 
impression  that  he  is  on  neutral  ground  where  an  all-embrac- 
ing truce  has  been  declared  between  the  hunting  and  hunted 
birds.  Even  the  many  black  Rattlesnakes,  which  are  as  thick 
as  Moccasins  in  the  Dismal  Swamp,  seem  to  share  in  the 
general  armistice,  for  they  slip  in  and  out  through  the  lily- 
choked  lagoons  with  never  a visible  hint  of  sinister  designs. 
Wading  knee-deep  in  these  lagoons  are  usually  hundreds  of 
White-faced  Glossy  Ibis,  while  Shovellers,  Pintails,  Blue- 
winged and  Cinnamon  Teal,  and  Black-necked  Stilts  live  in 
such  numbers  as  to  defy  all  efforts  at  successful  counting. 
Killdeer  Plover  animate  the  meadow  lands  adjacent  to  the 
lake.  The  Santiago  River  which  flows  therefrom  is  usually 
alive  with  Great  Blue  Herons,  Reddish  Egrets  and  fat  Mallard 
Ducks,  the  latter  all  asheen  as  their  iridescent  green  heads 
and  handsome  backs  move  about  in  the  bright  sunshine. 
Gadwalls  with  beautiful  marbled  breasts  are  also  common, 
and  Canvasback  Ducks  — the  fugitive  delights  of  the  North- 
ern huntsmen  — make  of  the  Chapala  region  a populous  and 
permanent  abiding-place.” 

Ribera  Castellanos  (often  spoken  of  as  the  Riviera  of 
Mexico ),  the  most  popular  resort  on  the  lake  shore,  3 M. 
south  of  Ocotlan , with  a good  hotel  and  attractive  scenery, 
is  perhaps  destined  to  become  a celebrated  tourist  resort. 
Boating,  fishing,  riding,  driving  and  hunting  excursions  are 
planned  by  the  hotel  management  at  reasonable  rates. 
Ribera  Hotel,  on  a high  hill  immediately  overlooking  the  lake, 
$4  up.  Am.  PL,  Amer.  cooking  and  management.  The  hotel 
courier  meets  all  trains,  and  the  company’s  gasoline  launch 
conveys  passengers  (and  luggage)  along  the  lake  shore  to  the 
hotel.  Fare,  50  c.  Trunks,  50  c.  The  Ocotlan  tranvia  carries 
the  passenger  (5  c.)  from  the  rly.  station  to  the  little  orange- 
crowned  plaza  in  the  centre  of  the  town.  Thence  it  is  2 min. 
walk  to  the  boat-landing,  near  a quaint  old  stone  bridge,  built 
by  the  Spaniards.  Hand-bags  by  cargador  12-25  c.  between 
car  and  landing. 

We  follow  the  course  of  the  Rio  Zula  and  soon  turn  into 
the  Rio  Santiago , which  flows  out  of  the  lake.  At  certain 
seasons  of  the  year  the  narrow  river  is  almost  choked  with 
floating  lirio  acuatico.  The  f hr.  ride  on  the  water  is  very 
attractive.  The  company  rents  row-boats  and  launches.  The 
smaller  boats,  manned,  cost  about  SI  a day  per  passenger. 
Sail-boats  holding  about  6 persons,  $1  an  ho.ur;  $2  to  $5  the 
hour  for  short  trips  in  the  launch  holding  6-15  passengers. 
Horses  at  reasonable  rates.  Good  swimming  from  the  end  of 
the  pier.  Excellent  fishing  everywhere  in  the  lake.  Good 
hunting  (ducks,  geese,  etc.)  within  a mile  or  more  of  the 
hotel.  For  rooms,  etc.,  address  Ribera  Hotel,  Ribera  Castel- 
lanos, Ocotlan,  Jalisco,  Mexico. 


156  Rte.  33.  ISLAND  OF  MESCALA 


Fish  are  plentiful:  the  most  popular  is  the  Blanco,  or 
White  Fish,  known  as  the  Lake  Herring,  albeit  it  differs  widely 
from  the  true  herring.  It  is  a handsome  fish,  silver  from  tip 
to  tail,  showing  transparent  in  the  sunlight.  It  tastes  like 
Sole  and  attains  a length  of  a foot  or  more. 

El  Bagre  — knowm  in  the  eastern  U.  S.  A.  as  the  Hornpout, 
and  in  the  West  as  the  Catfish  — is  plentiful  and  in  the  deeper 
reaches  of  the  lake  they  attain  great  size  and  weight.  The 
natives  prize  the  small  ones,  but  attribute  poisonous  qualities 
to  the  big  ones  — doubtless  because  of  their  scavenger  habits 
— and  they  eat  them  only  in  the  absence  of  others. 

The  Charal , a species  of  sardine,  almost  perfectly  trans- 
parent (a  sort  of  miniature  Blanco ),  swarm  in  the  lake  and  are 
much  prized.  They  are  caught  in  multitudes,  salted,  and  sold 
in  the  Guadalajara  markets.  A spiny  little  fish  — known 
also  as  La  Sardina , but  wThose  meat  is  darker  than  that  of  the 
bianco  — is  also  caught  in  great  numbers. 

The  Popocha  and  the  Majarra  are  much  prized  by  the 
inhabitants  of  the  surrounding  towms.  Great  quantities  of  the 
former  are  shipped  to  Toluca  w’here  a special  demand  exists 
for  them.  The  Chusme  or  Boquinete,  closely  allied  to  the 
Bream,  is  considered  a great  delicacy.  German  Carp  abound ; 
the  Mex.  Gov’t  having  stocked  the  lake  w-ith  this  fish  — to 
the  disgust  of  the  natives,  wdio  do  not  like  them. 

The  fish  are  netted  by  the  natives,  and  caught  with  hook 
and  line  by  the  foreigners.  The  nets  are  admirably  made, 
oftentimes  300  ft.  long  and  they  resemble  the  fine  Yucatan 
hammocks  in  texture.  The  fishermen  are  a sturdy  and  self- 
reliant  lot,  different  from  the  cringing  peon  of  the  Central 
Plateau.  They  are  the  direct  descendants  of  the  Indian 
whom  the  Spaniards  found  in  the  same  fishing-village  of 
Chapala  four  centuries  ago.  In  the  intervening  period  they 
have  changed  but  little.  Their  basalt  idols  and  their  fetish 
worship  have  been  replaced  by  the  milder  tenets  of  the  Catholic 
faith  but  the  Indian  characteristics  remain ; the  same  stoicism, 
the  same  disdain  for  civilization  and  its  enervating  luxuries 
and  the  same  shrinking  from  the  contaminating  touch  of 
the  white  man.  Their  progenitors  wTaged  a long  and  bitter 
war  against  the  conquering  Spaniards,  and  the  fathers  of  the 
present  generation  are  renowmed  in  Mexican  annals  as  heroic 
and  indefatigable  fighters  in  the  cause  of  Independence  and 
the  expulsion  of  the  Iberians.  The  Chapaltecos  took  up  the 
cause  of  Mexican  Independence  with  the  heroic  determina- 
tion shown  by  their  progenitors  in  their  efforts  to  evade  the 
Spanish  yoke.  Jose  Santa  Anna  (not  to  be  confounded  with 
Santa  Anna  the  Dictator),  with  a fewT  hundred  native  patriots 
as  brave  as  lions,  captained  by  a second  Cuauhtemoc,  and 
spurred  to  deeds  of  valor  by  a self-sacrificing  and  liberty- 
loving  friar,  defended  the  Island  of  Mescala  for  five  years 


COASTAL  TOWNS  33.  Route.  157 


against  rabid  royalists,  formidable  in  numbers  and  reen- 
forced repeatedly  by  men  and  modern  arms  from  the  Pacific 
port  of  San  Bias.  This  island,  six  leagues  from  Chapala 
Village  and  one  of  the  points  usually  visited  by  tourists,  bears 
practically  the  same  relation  to  Chapala  that  San  Juan  de 
Ulua  bears  to  Vera  Cruz.  At  one  period  in  Mex.  history  it 
was  a penal  settlement  ; the  focus  for  the  captured  criminals 
of  Michoacan  and  Jalisco.  Later  it  was  converted  into  a 
fortress  and  during  the  troublous  times  which  followed  the 
first  faint  cry  for  Independence  (1810)  it  was  the  theatre 
of  many  deadly  conflicts  between  the  harassed  patriots  and 
the  royalists. 

The  armament  of  the  natives  consisted  of  12  small  cannon  and  an  as- 
sortment of  side-arms:  with  these  the  beleaguered  patriots  made  a des- 
perate resistance  from  1812  to  1817.  In  their  tiny  Gibraltar  they  fought 
with  the  zeal  and  courage  of  the  last  Aztecs  on  their  teocalli  tops,  and 
engraved  on  the  pages  of  Mexican  history  a record  of  which  every  patriot 
is  pardonably  proud.  During  the  siege  launches  and  larger  boats  were 
brought  overland  from  San  Bias , and  for  years  the  vigilant  Spaniards 
believed  they  were  successfully  blockading  the  island.  But  the  wary 
natives  of  the  mainland  slipped  through  regularly  with  the  provisions 
and  stores  supplied  by  watchful  adherents  of  the  cause.  In  time  the  in- 
vaders became  tired  and  desperate,  and  by  a tremendous  assault  carried 
the  fortress  and  captured  its  valiant  defenders. 

The  island  proper  is  about  one  mile  long  by  less  than  a half- 
mile  broad ; it  is  accessible  only  at  the  point  where  boats  now 
land.  The  launch  carries  visitors  to  the  old  Sally-Port  — once 
the  defence  of  the  stone  wharf  where  supplies  were  landed. 
The  nearest  mainland  is  the  fishing-village  of  Mescala,  some 
three  miles  distant.  The  immense  prison  ( presidio , a name 
often  applied  to  the  island),  which  dominates  the  lake  for  miles 
around,  is  falling  into  decay.  An  old  care-taker  and  his 
decrepit  wife  are  the  sole  occupants  of  the  castle-like  pile  — 
which  is  perched  on  the  crest  of  a commanding  hill.  The 
visitor  may  like  to  bear  in  mind  that  Mescala  has  an  unsavory 
reputation  for  alacranes  (comp.  p.  100),  the  bite  of  which  is 
often  fatal.  The  fishermen  say  there  is  an  alacran  for  every 
stone  on  the  rocky  island,  and  they  usually  warn  visitors 
against  these  venomous  pests. 

The  adjacent  Isla  de  Sacrificios  is  not  worth  visiting. 

A launch  service  conveys  passengers  to  the  different  points 
of  interest  around  the  lake.  The  principal  shore  villages  are 
Tuscueca,  Jocotepec,  Jamay,  Pajacuaran , La  Palma,  and  Tiza- 
pan.  In  these  quiet  hamlets  the  natives  live  the  simple  life  in 
the  real  sense  of  the  word.  Their  customs  are  those  of  other 
years ; their  thoughts  the  most  primitive.  Each  tiny  port 
has  its  stretch  of  white  beach  in  lieu  of  a harbor  and  a main 
street;  and  each  its  fleet  of  time-  and  water-stained  fishing- 
smacks,  resting  placidly  on  the  sand.  The  tall  masts  of  these 
boats,  and  the  small,  whitewashed  towers  of  the  parochial 
church  advertise  to  the  passing  world  the  two  ideas  dominant 


1 58  Route  33. 


T I ZAP  AN — JAM  AY 


in  the  villagers’  minds  — religion  and  fish.  The  first  was  the 
alleged  benefit  the  Chapalans  received  from  the  Spaniards  — 
in  exchange  for  their  lands  and  their  independence;  the 
latter  was  known  to  them  many  years  (mayhap)  before  a 
bigot  ruled  in  Spain  or  the  greedy  Spanish  gold-seekers 
swarmed  to  the  New  World.  On  certain  dias  de  fiesta  these 
little  towns  take  on  a speck  of  color,  and  in  the  central  plazas 
are  held  tianguis  (markets)  after  the  manner  of  the  Aztecs 
four  centuries  ago. 

Tizapan  is  on  the  edge  of  a fine  fruit  region.  Jamay  . on  the 
south  shore  (3  M.  from  Ribera  Castellanos),  is  noted  for  fine 
petates  — a species  of  mat  made  of  palm  leaves.  The  industry 
gives  employment  to  nearly  all  the  inhabitants,  from  the 
toddling  tots  to  the  sturdy  centenarians.  It  is  also  celebrated 
locally  for  a crude,  but  curious,  monument  erected  (about 
50  years  ago)  to  Pio  Notio.  It  is  the  work  of  local  craftsmen 
and  was  constructed  with  funds  subscribed  by  the  mat-makers. 
Although  made  of  a cement-like  clay,  and  repeatedly  joggled 
by  earthquakes,  it  still  stands;  its  quaint  carvings  recall  cer- 
tain of  the  Jat  temples  of  British  India. 

In  these  sequestered  spots,  far  from  the  destructive  com- 
plexities of  modern  life,  almost  every  man  lives  his  allotted 
threescore  years  and  ten.  while  many  of  them  pass  the  cen- 
tury mark  with  a springy  step  and  a resolve  to  make  the  next 
decade  unusually  depopulating  for  the  piscine  denizens  of 
the  lake. 

The  chief  feature  of  the  small  Village  of  Chapala  is  the 
double-spired  church  with  an  image  of  the  saint  to  which  the 
fishermen  pray  before  departing  on  their  trips.  A heavy 
catch  and  a safe  return  are  the  limits  of  their  petition  and 
ambition.  The  hot  sulphur  springs  near  by  are  supposed  to 
be  efficacious  in  rheumatic  ailments.  At  their  source  the 
waters  show  a temperature  of  100°  Fahr. ; which  is  too  hot  for 
comfortable  bathing.  In  the  tanks  into  which  the  water  is 
led  the  temperature  is  about  70°.  The  views  over  the  lake 
on  moonlit  nights  are  very  beautiful. 

Ocotlan , see  p.  151.  Continuing  our  journey  westward  we 
soon  cross  the  Rio  Santiago , spanned  (at  the  left)  by  a time- 
stained  Spanish  bridge  of  many  arches.  The  grade  slopes  up- 
ward by  the  sides  of  squat  hills  covered  with  nopal  cacti  and 
patches  of  tall  maize.  The  small  ranchos  hereabout  are  covered 
with  volcanic  rocks,  perchance  thrown  out  of  the  fine  conical 
mt.  on  the  1.  of  the  rly.  The  natives  have  employed  many  of 
these  basaltic  boulders  to  erect  fences  around  their  little  landed 
estates.  Features  of  the  region  — as  well  as  of  many  others 
in  the  Republic  — are  the  svmmetrical  stone  fences  which, 
in  an  effort  to  accurately  delimn  the  ranchos , extend  up  the 
mountain-sides  quite  to  the  top.  In  the  late  summer  many 
miles  of  this  section  are  diapered  with  yellow  wild-flowers, 


THE  FALLS  OF  JUANACATLAN  34.  Rte.  159 


and  the  lowlands  and  marshes  are  blue  with  the  tints  of  the 
lirio  acudtico.  A noteworthy  flower  is  the  parasite  of  the 
mesquite  tree,  a kind  of  mistletoe,  called  ingerto  (grafted). 
For  many  miles  up  and  down  the  line  the  branches  of  the 
mesquite  are  loaded  with  this  singular  growth,  which  at  first 
sight  appears  to  be  the  flower  produced  by  the  tree  itself. 

197  K.  Poncitlan , in  a marshy  region  on  the  edge  of  a rush- 
ing river;  across  which,  to  the  right,  is  a picturesque  stone 
bridge,  a relic  of  colonial  days.  Tall  cranes  wade  the  shallow 
waters  and  many  water-lilies  are  seen.  203  K.  Constancia. 

211  K.  San  Jacinto.  The  line  skirts  the  river-bank  and 
passes  a pretty  waterfall.  In  its  westward  course  the  stream 
drains  and  irrigates  a rich  section  of  the  country.  When  the 
river  runs  full,  a myriad  water-hyacinths  float  down  on  the 
turgid  waters,  and  at  certain  points  almost  choke  the  stream. 
In  the  autumn  the  adjacent  lowlands  flame  with  the  blooms 
of  wild  mustard.  Hereabout  the  fodder  is  stacked  in  trees  to 
place  it  out  of  reach  of  marauding  cattle  and  of  water  when 
the  river  overflows  its  banks.  216  K.  Corona. 

219  K.  Atequisa , point  of  departure  for  east-bound  passen- 
gers travelling  to  Lake  Chapala  (see  p.  151) . Atequisa  town  lies 
about  { M.  to  the  left  of  the  railway.  The  stage-coach  for 
Chapala  Village  meets  trains.  The  tram-cars  proceed  to  Ate- 
quisa only.  Fine  oranges  are  produced  on  the  adjacent 
haciendas.  227  K.  La  Capilla. 

235  K.  El  Castillo.  A tram-line  runs  hence  to  7 K.  El 
Salto  de  Juanacatlan,  see  below. 

34.  The  Falls  of  Juanacatlan. 

The  Falls  of  Juanacatlan  (called  the  Mexican  Niagara)  are 
reached  by  a tramway  whose  cars  depart  from  their  terminus 
at  the  left  of  the  station ; time  about  30  min.  each  way.  Fare 
(round  trip),  40  c.  Hand-baggage  can  be  left  at  Castillo  in 
care  of  the  station  agent.  No  fees  necessary. 

The  line  runs  northward  through  the  treeless  but  fertile 
valley  of  Toluquillat  dotted  here  and  there  with  diminutive 
tile-roofed  houses  and  rancliitos.  At  certain  seasons  (after 
the  rains)  the  fields  are  covered  with  ox-eyed  daisies,  marga - 
ritas  and  a delicate,  transparent  flower  called  San  Miguel. 
The  climate  of  the  valley  is  mild.  The  landscape  is  usually 
bathed  in  warm  sunshine,  and  the  air  vibrates  to  the  lilting 
of  many  birds  and  to  the  humming,  droning  monotone  of 
countless  insects.  Water-lilies  nod  above  the  quiet  pools, 
turtles  climb  to  stones  and  logs  to  dry  themselves  in  the 
sun  and  to  doze  in  the  golden  light;  the  occasional  ringing 
call  of  a guinea-hen  echoes  across  the  open  and  blends  with 
the  melodious  whistle  of  quail,  or  the  hail  of  a friendly 
ranxhero  guarding  his  cattle.  In  the  sequestered  valleys  of 


160  Rte.34.  THE  FALLS  OF  JUANACATLAN 


the  distant  hills  several  small  hamlets  nestle  cosily,  adver- 
tising themselves  to  the  passing  world  by  the  small,  pointed 
church  spires  which  rise  above  the  trees.  The  tinkling 
notes  of  some  hidden  chapel  bell  ride  down  occasionally  on 
the  summer  breeze.  As  we  near  the  falls  a changing  cloud 
of  silver  mist,  shot  with  many  rainbows,  is  seen  hovering 
above  the  river  and  the  pool.  To  the  right  the  river  winds 
like  a brown  ribbon  along  the  valley  edge.  The  shallow  la- 
goons  are  the  winter  rendezvous  of  myriad  water-fowl.  The 
lowlands  are  covered  with  the  bright  green  of  growing  hya- 
cinths. Small  boys  who  offer  their  services  as  guides  (un- 
necessary)  await  the  arrival  of  the  car.  We  retrace  our 
steps  along  the  station  platform,  continue  down  a clean  little 
street  with  a row’  of  houses  on  the  left  and  a hedge-row  on  the 
right,  and  on  reaching  the  end  of  the  street  (about  -g-  mile)  j 
we  turn  sharply  to  the  left  and  follow’  the  car  (rly.)  track,  to 
the  big  mill,  a hundred  feet  or  more  beyond.  Above  the  mill  is 
a newr  bridge  spanning  the  river.  A toll  is  collected  if  the 
centre  is  crossed.  The  best  river  view  of  the  falls  is  from  the 
roof  of  the  electric  light  and  pow’er  station  at  the  base  of  the 
mill,  on  the  river  edge.  The  roof  is  reached  (permit  unneces- 
sary)  by  following  the  winding  stone  stair  to  the  left  of  the 
track.  The  horse-shoe  fall  measures  524  ft.  from  tip  to  tip; 
the  fall  is  70  ft.  high.  The  volume  of  water  varies  wfith  the 
season.  During  the  dry  season  (Sept.-June)  the  river  dwindles 
to  about  30  small  saltos , leaving  the  edge  of  the  precipice  vis- 
ible in  many  places.  During  the  rainy  season  a dense  sheet 
of  browrn  w’ater  falls,  with  a reverberating  roar,  into  the  pool, 
wrhile  fairy-like  clouds  of  rainbow-dotted  mist  hang  above 
it.  At  this  time  an  almost  constant  stream  of  uprooted  lirios 
pass  over  the  falls  and  whirl  away  to  find  lodgement,  and  grow 
with  amazing  vitality,  in  the  river  below7.  The  upper  chutes 
beneath  the  bridge  are  oftentimes  choked  with  them,  to  the 
annoyance  of  the  watchers  of  the  flumes  and  gates.  The  lily 
produces  a pretty  blue  flow’er.  Pigs  are  very  fond  of  the  bulbs 
and  they  come  here  from  the  surrounding  country  to  feed 
upon  them  — w ading  into  the  river  and  catching  at  the  plants 
as  they  whirl  by.  Failing  in  this  they  seek  those  wrhich  creep 
with  the  under-current  along  the  bottom  of  the  stream. 
Practice  renders  these  sw7ine  semi-amphibious,  and  the  visitor 
may  sometimes  witness  the  odd  sight  of  a score  or  more  hog- 
backs arching  above  the  w’ater  like  browrn  or  black  basaltic  I 
rocks,  while  the  heads  of  the  ow’ners  remain  under  water  for  i 
what  seems  an  uncommonly  long  time. 

The  river,  El  Rio  Santiago , knowm  locally  as  Rio  Grande , 
flows  out  of  Lake  Chapala  and  is  the  same  stream  that  plunges  ' 
through  the  Barranca  de  Oblatos  (p.  178)  near  Guadalajara. 

The  electric  power  plant  at  the  foot  of  the  falls  was  erected  with  a view 
to  supplying  Guadalaj ara  with  light  and  power.  The  falls  furnish  power 


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GUADALAJARA 


35.  Route.  161 


to  the  Mill  of  the  Sacred  Heart  of  Jesus , above  the  power-station,  and  to 
a starch-factory  and  a cotton-mill  further  down.  In  the  latter  mill  the 
cotton  mantas  so  much  used  by  the  native  women  are  made. 

From  El  Castillo  we  continue  the  journey  westward  to 
242  K.  Kings.  252  K.  La  Junta.  We  climb  once  more  to  the 
highlands  and  secure  splendid  views  (to  the  1.)  of  wide  valleys 
hemmed  in  at  the  horizon  by  blue-peaked  hills.  Lakes  whose 
entire  surfaces  are  blue  with  water-lilies  lie  in  the  depressions 
and  the  hillsides  are  furrowed  by  many  vertical  arroyos 
The  town  of  San  Pedro,  crowning  the  crest  of  a hill,  is  seen 
on  the  r.  We  descend  rapidly.  Soon  the  spires  and  domes  of 
Guadalajara  come  into  view.  The  Laguna  del  Agua  Azul  (see 
p.  178)  is  passed  (r.  & 1.)  just  before  we  enter  the  city.  260 
K.  Guadalajara,  see  below. 

35.  Guadalajara. 

Arrival.  The  Rlv.  Station  is  at  the  foot  of  the  Avenida  16  de  Septiembre, 
or  Calle  No.  14  (formerly  Calle  de  San  Francisco) , within  5 min.  walk  of  the 
centre  of  the  city  and  the  chief  hotels.  Cabs  and  autos  at  the  stand  across 
the  street  from  the  exit.  Cargadores  (see  p.  Iii6)  meet  all  trains  and  will 
carry  hand-luggage  to  the  hotel  for  50  c.  Small  trunks  1 peso,  or  according 
to  the  bargain  (advisable)  one  may  make.  Checks  and  luggage  can  with 
safety  be  delivered  to  the  hotel  runners  who  meet  the  trains.  Tram-cars 
pass  in  front  of  the  station  and  run  to  all  parts  of  the  city. 

Trains  on  the  branch  line  for  (56  M.)  Ameca,  and  for  the  Ramal  de  San 
Marcos,  which  leads  off  from  La  Vega  (on  the  Ameca  line)  to  (29  M.)  San 
Marcos,  leave  from  this  station.  Also  trains  for  Lake  Chapala.  For  the 
Colima- Manzanillo  Extension,  see  Route  36,  p.  183. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  Of  the  several  hotels  (chiefly  under  native  man- 
agement), foreigners  generally  prefer  the  new,  clean,  and  unusually  attrac- 
tive (recommended)  Hotel  San  Francis  (American  management,  cooking, 
service  and  comfort),  recently  completed  (elevators,  sunny,  spacious  rooms 
with  wooden  floors,  baths,  hot  and  cold  running  water,  extensive  views,  at- 
tractive patio  and  many  modern  comforts  — one  of  the  best  hotels  in  the 
Republic),  at  the  corner  (left,  from  the  station)  of  the  flower-crowned 
Jardin  de  San  Francisco  (2  min.  walk  from  the  station).  The  structure 
is  5 stories  high,  and  from  the  upper  rooms  one  commands  beguiling  views 
over  the  city  to  the  distant  hills.  Rates:  Rooms  without  bath,  from  $3 
(pesos)  a day;  with  bath,  from  $5.  Meals  in  the  dining  room  a la  carta. 
Special  rates  for  two  persons  in  one  room,  and  for  a long  stay.  Suites  for 
the  winter  at  low  rates.  — Other  hotels  are  El  Fenix,  Calle  7.  Cos- 
mopolita,  near  the  station.  Frances,  in  the  rear  of  the  Palacio  de  Gobierno. 
French  management. 

The  City  Plan  and  Street  Names.  The  mania  which  recently  impelled 
the  Mexico  City  authorities  to  change  the  names  of  certain  of  the  metropol- 
itan streets  for  newer  names  which  convey  no  inkling  of  their  romantic  or 
historic  associations,  has  spread  to  Guadalajara,  with  lamentable  effects. 

, Many  of  the  old  street  names  have  disappeared,  and  in  certain  instances 
complicated  numbers  which  the  residents  do  not,  and  won!t,  understand,  re- 
place them.  The  proletariat  continue  to  call  the  streets  and  avenues  by 
their  old  names,  and  these  no  doubt  will  in  time  be  replaced.  The  nomen- 
clature is  a Chinese  puzzle  to  the  stranger,  who  should  waste  no  time  try- 
ing to  decode  it. 

According  to  the  new  system  the  city  is  divided  into  four  sectors  which 
start  from  an  axis,  or  centre,  called  Eje  Poniente,  Eje  Oriente  (W.  and  E. 
axis)  Calzada  dcla  Independencia  (Independence  Causeway),  and  Norte  ySur 
(N.  and  S.).  The  sectors  are  called  Hidalgo,  Juarez,  Libertad,  and  Reforma. 
Streets  running  N.  and  S.  are  designated  by  even  numbers,  those  running 
E.  and  W.  by  uneven  numbers.  Cross  streets  are  designated  by  letters,  as  A. 
B.,  etc.  Certain  short  streets  carry  both  numbers  and  letters.  Others  carry 


162  Route  35 . 


GUADALAJARA 


names,  numbers  and  letters.  These  appear  on  the  street  corners,  attached 
t o the  houses,  in  white  on  a plaque  ( placa ) with  a blue  glazed  ground.  The 
insignia  on  certain  of  them  is,  approximately,  as  follows:  Sector  Hidalgo , 
Calle  30,  Cuartd  (ward,  district)  J+,  Manzana  (square,  block)  53.  — Shrewd 
advertisers  have  not  been  slow  to  copy  the  style  of  plaque  used  by  the 
municipality  in  naming  the  streets,  and  sometimes  when  searching  for  a 
certain  street  one's  attention  is  arrested  by  a plaque  bearing  the  admonition 
to  “Liven  up  your  liver  by  using  Dr.  Garcias’  busy  little  pills!” 

The  city  is  compact;  and  the  social  and  commercial  life  centres  around 
the  Plaza  (3  squares  at  the  left  of  the  Jardin  San  Francisco) . 

Cabs  and  Autos  meet  all  trains.  To  any  hotel,  50  c.  Blue  flag  cabs,  by 
the  hour  SI. 50;  l hr.  75  c.  Red  flag  $1  and  50  c.  Ford  taxis  $2.50  per 
hr.,  $1.50,  b hr.  Larger  cars  $4  and  $2.50.  The  tram-cars  of  the  Com- 
pahla  de  Tranvias  Luz  y Fuerza  de  Guadalajara  provide  a good  and  cheap 
service  to  all  parts  of  the  city  and  its  suburbs.  Horseback  riding  is  popular 
and  horses  can  be  hired  (consult  the  hotel  manager)  at  reasonable  prices. 

Banks,  where  money  can  be  exchanged,  and  travellers’  checks,  etc.,  cashed: 
A.  R.  Downs  <£  Son;  Salvador  Ugarie  (correspondent  of  the  Mexico  City 
Banking  Corporation) ; Banque  Frangaise  du  Mexique  ( Sucesores  de  Lacaud 
eHiio),  etc. 

Moving  Pictures  (American  films)  at  the  Cine  Lux. 

Shops.  Tne  best  native  shops  ( tiendas ) are  in  the  vicinity  of  the  plaza  and 
the  portales  which  flank  them.  Prices  are  usually  flexible,  and  foreigners  are 
sometimes  asked  more  than  the  articles  are  worth  or  the  dealer  expects  to 
receive.  Antiques,  curios  and  the  like  can  be  bought  to  better  advantage 
in  the^  well-known  shops  of  the  capital. 

Cafes.  The  best  among  these  are  under  or  near  the  portales.  As  a rule 
the  hotel  dining-rooms  are  more  attractive. 

Steamship  Agents.  Certain  of  the  Steamship  Lines  touching  at  the 
chief  Pacific  Coast  Ports  have  agents  here:  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Co.,  G. 
Amsinck  Co.,  agents;  The  Mexican  States  Line,  Sr.  Teodoro  Collignon; 
Compahla  Mexicana  de  Navigacidti,  Sr.  Axel  Bulle.  See  the  directory*. 

Guadalajara  (Arabic  Wala-l-Hajarah,  or  rocky  river; 
named  for  the  Moorish  city  of  Guadalajara  in  Spain),  5,200  ft. 
above  sea-level,  with  a population  of  150,000;  one  of  the  clean- 
est, finest,  brightest,  and  healthiest  of  the  Mexican  cities,  on 
gently  sloping  ground  with  low  hills  to  the  north,  east  and 
south;  the  seat  of  a bishop,  of  a university  and  of  a number 
of  rich  and  handsome  churches,  is  frequently  referred  to  by 
enthusiastic  writers  as  the  “ Pearl  of  the  Occident,”  “Sultana 
of  the  West,”  the  “Mexican  Dresden,”  and  so  on.  After  the 
Mexican  Capital  it  is  unquestionably  the  most  orderly,  the 
handsomest  and  most  attractive  city  of  the  Mexican  Republic. 
Its  hotels  are  cheerful  and  possess  certain  modern  comforts, 
its  people  are  educated,  industrious  and  simpdtico , and  because 
of  this  latter  the  place  is  unusually  progressive.  The  Tapatios , 
or  Guadalajareuos , as  the  inhabitants  are  called,  are  a well-set- 
up and  handsome  lot,  particularly  the  women,  some  of  whom 
are  remarkable  for  their  beauty. 

The  State?  of  Jalisco  and  Michoacan  bear  somewhat  the  same  relation 
to  the  Mexican  Republic  that  Massachusetts  and  Virginia  do  to  the 
United  States  — both  having  been  colonized  by  the  better  classes.  After 
the  Conquest  many  of  the  Spanish  nobility  chose  Guadalajara  and  Morelia 
(p.  202)  for  their  home  in  the  New  World,  and  the  practically  unadul- 
terated descendants  of  these  folk  are  noticeable  in  the  two  cities. 

The  generous  climate  (p.  164)  of  Guadalajara,  and  the  absence 
of  that  insidious  form  of  insanity  alluded  to  as  the  “ strenuous 
life,”  preserve  the  people  and  prolong  their  lives.  Pulque 


History. 


GUADALAJARA 


35.  Route.  163 


(p.  lxxxii),  the  curse  of  the  Mexican  table-land,  is  not  produced 
in  Jalisco  in  appreciable  quantities,  and  its  perishable  nature 
prevents  its  being  shipped  hither.  Its  absence  is  also  a great 
benefit  to  the  people.  As  a direct  consequence  the  lower 
classes  of  Guadalajara  are  more  alert,  better  dressed,  better 
nourished  and  are  more  willing  workers  and  better  citizens 
than  their  sodden  brethren  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico. 

History.  The  city  was  named  by  Captain  Juan  de  Ofiate 
in  honor  of  his  commander  Nufio  de  Guzman,  who  was  born 
in  the  Spanish  city  of  Guadalajara.  It  was  founded  in  1530, 
or  thereabout,  and  when  the  rebellious  Indians  had  been  sub- 
dued some  years  later,  it  was  made  the  capital  of  the  rich 
region  long  known  as  El  Reino  de  Nuevo  Galicia  (The  Kingdom 
of  New  Galicia).  By  a decree  of  the  Audiencia  Real  it  was 
made  (in  1560)  the  seat  of  the  Episcopal  power  of  Western 
Mexico.  El  Ilustrisimo  Senor  Don  Pedro  Gomez  Marabar  was  the 
first  bishop,  and  every  year  the  Cathedral  Chapter  erects  a 
temporary  cenotaph  to  celebrate  his  funeral  rites,  while  mass 
is  sung  for  the  eternal  repose  of  his  soul.  Pedro  de  Alvarado, 
a lieutenant  of  Hernan  Cortes,  a conquistador,  and  a dashing 
figure  in  the  Spanish  invasion  of  Mexico,  died  here  July  4, 
1541. 1 

In  1810  Guadalajara  had  upward  of  60,000  inhabitants  and 
was  prosperous.  The  War  for  Independence  brought  commer- 
cial stagnation  to  it,  and  for  a decade  or  more  it  went  back- 
ward. Peace  induced  renewed  prosperity,  but  nothing  equal 
to  that  initiated  by  the  appearance  of  the  first  American 
locomotive,  which  reached  here  April  16,  1888,  and  awakened 
the  people  to  the  meaning  of  progress  along  foreign  lines. 

As  a general  rule  reform  movements  in  the  Repub.  operate 
first  in  the  capital,  then  spread  gradually  to  the  two  oceans 
and  the  frontier.  Thus  it  is  that  the  Church  is  more  prominent 
in  Guadalajara  than  in  some  other  Mex.  cities.  Almost  every 
hour  during  the  day  the  ringing  of  ch.  bells  is  heard,  and 
religious  observances  seem  more  a part  of  the  people’s  lives 
than  elsewhere.  Ecclesiastics  are  more  in  evidence  on  the 
streets  and  the  low’er  classes  vie  with  each  other  in  efforts 
to  kiss  the  clerical  hand.  Guadalajara  has  always  been  noted 
for  the  sane  and  liberal  ideas  of  its  rulers,  and  the  people  are 
happy  and  enlightened.  The  memory  of  this  city  and  its 
contented  inhabitants,  its  brilliant  sunshine,  its  quaint  build- 
ings and  its  matchless  blue  sky,  remains  with  the  traveller 
long  after  he  has  left  Mexico.  The  serenity  of  the  life  at 
Guadalajara  appeals  to  most  men,  while  its  flower-decked 


1 He  was  mortally  injured  by  being  thrown  from  his  horse  into  a 
rocky  ravine  near  Manzanillo , and  he  was  brought  to  Guadalajara  for 
medical  attention.  A suit  of  armor  said  to  have  been  worn  by  him  on 
this  occasion,  as  well  as  during  the  Conquest  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  is 
preserved  in  the  Museo  Nacional  at  Mexico  City. 


164  Route  35.  GUADALAJARA  Climate. 

'patios  and  balconies  recall  memories  of  the  romantic  cities 
of  Southern  Spain. 

The  Climate  is  almost  perfect,  and  the  city  is  rapidly  be- 
coming known  as  a sort  of  open-air  sanitarium  for  tubercular 
patients.  Between  Sept,  and  June  the  atmosphere  is  excep- 
tionally dry  and  its  effect  on  the  nerves  is  beneficial.  The 
climate  has  been  aptly  described  as  “June  air  with  October 
touches.”  April  and  May  are  a trifle  warm,  but  the  remainder 
of  the  year  is  delightful.  The  mean  summer  temperature  is 
73°  Fahr.  The  word  “ winter  ” is  merely  a courteous  definition 
applied  to  thoroughly  enjoyable  sunny  days  fringed  with  a 
tang  of  light  frost.  The  houses  are  chimneyless,  the  trees 
never  entirely  lose  their  verdure,  and  the  beautiful,  semi-tropi- 
cal flowers  bloom  perennially.  The  song-birds,  of  which  there 
are  many,  never  desert  the  city.  The  July  and  August  sunsets 
are  almost  as  lovely  as  the  gorgeous  productions  of  the  Cochin- 
China  and  the  Philippine  coasts.  During  the  rainy  season 
(June -Sept.)  the  city  is  visited  occasionally  by  electrical 
storms  of  great  spectacular  beauty. 

The  blue  sky  suddenly  becomes  overcast,  dense  cloud-billows  race  up 
from  the  south,  reach  out  toward  the  east  and  form  imposing  sky- 
pictures  which  are  torn  into  shreds  by  the  winds,  to  re-form  again  and 
again.  The  vigorous  and  prolonged  thunder  becomes  deafening,  the 
winds  blow  with  increasing  fury,  long  ribbons  of  vivid  and  terrifying 
lightning  ( relampagueo ) rend  the  heavens  and  not  infrequently  shatter 
church  spires  and  flag-poles.  Then  from  out  the  black  maelstrom  of 
seething  clouds  dart  crystal  rods  of  rain  that  slant  through  the  air  and 
beat  up  miniature  whirlwinds  of  dust  where  they  impinge  on  the  earth. 
Soon  the  streets  run  rivulets  of  brown  water  wThich  promptly  change  into 
torrents  and  then  into  spreading  lakelets  — spume-fringed,  and  which 
swirl  and  bubble  in  an  effort  to  escape  through  the  congested  sewers. 
For  an  hour  or  more  the  rainfall  is  tremendous.  Presently  a winsome 
eye  of  blue  sky  peers  timidly  and  beguilingly  through  the  plunging  cloud 
wrack.  A brisk  perfume-laden  breeze  whips  up  from  the  south;  the 
streets  dry  rapidly  and  the  aerial  storm-remnants  are  whisked  away 
beyond  the  horizon.  Then  the  conciliatory  sun  comes  smilingly  forth; 
the  rotund  rain-drops  cease  their  methodical  search  for  the  centre  of 
gravity  along  the  telephone  wires,  the  tear-drenched  orange  trees  in  the 
deep  green  vlaza  glisten  like  the  eyes  of  a child  whose  grief  has  been  sud- 
denly changed  to  joy,  and  W ala-l-H aj arah  basks  languidly  and  serenely 
beneath  an  incomparable  lapiz-lazuli  sky  which  stretches  like  an  un- 
ruffled sea  from  horizon  to  horizon. 

The  Plaza  Mayor,  El  Palacio,  La  Catedral,  etc. 

The  Main  Plaza,  — called  also  Plaza  Mayor , P.  de  la  Con- 
stitution and  P.  de  Armas  (comp.  p.  liii  and  PI.  C,  4),  — a 
garden-like  promenade  near  the  geographical  centre  of  the 
city,  is  flanked  by  the  Palacio  de  Gobierno,  the  Cathedral, 
and  by  picturesque  portales.  A line  of  prolific  orange  trees 
(naranjos)  ring  the  outer  edge  of  the  square  and  in  the  centre 
are  parterres  of  flowers  and  a music  kiosk,  where  the  military 
band  plays  from  7 to  9 p.  m.  During  these  hours  the  spot  is  the 
most  animated  and  attractive  in  the  city.  A strip  of  pavement 
between  the  curb  and  the  outer  tier  of  seats  is  reserved  for 


El  Palacio a 


GUADALAJARA 


35.  Route.  1G5 


the  lower  classes,  who  obey  the  local  custom  and  do  not  pro- 
menade or  mingle  in  the  inner  lines.  The  big  hats  and  bright 
sarapes  of  the  pelados,  the  dainty  mantillas  and  Parisian 
toilettes  of  the  ladies,  and  the  charro  costumes  of  some  of 
the  men  (usually  rancheros  or  members  of  the  class  fond  of 
horseback  riding)  form  a pleasing  picture  which  visitors  should 
not  fail  to  see. 

The  men  of  the  lower  class  formerly  wore  sombreros  of  such  unwieldy 
proportions  — hats  with  brims  so  wide  that  they  had  to  be  doffed  or 
tipped  to  one  side  when  the  owner  entered  a street-car  or  any  other  place 
with  a narrow  door  — that  the  local  government  considered  them  a 
public  nuisance  and  imposed  a tax  (effective  in  Jan.,  1908)  of  one  peso 
for  each  ten  centimeters  of  brim  above  a certain  width.  It  has  had  the 
effect  of  making  narrower  brim  hats  more  fashionable. 

In  the  arcades  or  portales  which  flank  the  E.  and  N.  sides 
of  the  plaza  (and  which  are  named  for  the  revolutionary 
heroes  Bravo , Guerrero , Abasolo , Morelos , Aldama,  Mata - 
moros,  Allende , Mina  and  Hidalgo)  and  which  continue  quite 
around  the  square  to  the  N.,  the  traveller  wall  find  much  to 
interest  him  among  the  picturesque  groups  about  the  little 
stalls  or  puestos  where  sweetmeats,  strawberries,  native  drinks, 
cigarettes  and  whatnot  are  sold.  On  feast  days  many  country 
folks  come  here  to  sell  their  home-made  wrares.  The  mixed 
drinks  should  be  regarded  with  a prudent  eye  by  the  stranger 
unacquainted  with  Mexican  microbes,  and  it  should  be  re- 
membered that  pornographic  post-cards  are  not  admitted 
to  the  government  mails. 

The  architectural  differentiation  of  Guadalajara,  by  no  means 
so  marked  as  that  of  Puebla,  is  notable  in  certain  aspects. 
Perhaps  the  handsomest  edifice  in  the  city  — certainly  one  of 
the  most  attractive  of  its  class  in  the  Republic  — is  the 

Government  Palace,  or  Palacio  de  Gobierno  (on  the  N. 
side  of  the  Plaza  de  Armas,  PI.  C,  4),  celebrated  as  an  excellent 
example  of  the  Churrigueresque  (p.  cxxxii)  blended  with  the 
Rococo  and  applied  to  a secular  building.  The  main  entrance, 
in  the  centre  of  the  facade,  is  strikingly  handsome.  The 
massive  piers  with  their  diapered  squares  suggest  the  Norman 
order.  The  Corinthian  capitals  support  “an  element  of 
positive  beauty  in  the  statues  of  War  and  Peace,  thoroughly 
expressive  of  their  subjects  and  finely  contrasted  in  sentiment.” 
Twenty-one  massive  key-stones,  with  glyphs  like  the  chan- 
nels of  a Doric  pier,  surround  the  entrance  and  form  the  arch. 
Above  is  a mass  of  Ionic  enrichments,  a small  platform  en- 
closed by  an  iron  reja,  then  a smaller  doorway  (a  replica  of 
the  one  below)  beneath  a line  of  heavy  dog-tooth  moulding, 
and  a splendid  arch  flanked  by  intricate  carvings.  Imme- 
diately above  this  is  the  handsome  clock-tower,  richly  adorned 
and  surmounted  by  the  flag-staff  ( asta  del  pabellon)  and  two 
cuirasses  and  helmets.  Similar  ornaments  run  the  length 
of  the  building.  Ionic  pilasters  flank  the  lateral  doorways 


166  Route  85. 


GUADALAJARA 


Cathedral. 


(all  of  which  are  good  examples  of  wood  carving),  handsome 
rejas  bar  the  windows,  and  a line  of  graceful  iron  balconies 
(of  native  workmanship)  adorn  the  upper  story.  The  general 
effect  of  the  finely  proportioned  building  is  unusually  pleas- 
ing. A walk  quite  around  the  structure  will  repay  the  lover 
of  quaint  and  massive  architecture.  Note  the  curious  gar- 
goyles. The  blending  of  the  Spanish-Moorish  with  the  Hellenic 
architecture  is  strikingly  effective.  The  general  martial  air  of 
the  building,  the  loopholes  and  fortress-like  windows,  testify 
to  its  ability  to  withstand  a siege. 

The  interior  patios  are  large  and  clean.  A handsome  stair- 
way leads  to  the  government  offices  on  the  upper  floor.  The 
private  office  (despacho  particular)  of  the  Governor  ( gober - 
nador)  is  adorned  with  portraits  of  former  governors  of  Jalisco. 
The  original  building  was  erected  by  the  Spaniards  in  1643 
and  cost  $99,000.  Since  then  many  improvements  have  been 
added.  The  structure  was  badly  shaken  by  a powrier  explosion 
in  Jan.,  1859.  Here  Miguel  Hidalgo  y Costilla  sketched  out  and 
wrote  part  of  his  famous  Declaration  of  Independence.  On 
March  12,  1858,  Benito  Juarez  narrowly  escaped  assassination 
here  at  the  hands  of  a reactionary  revolutionist.  Here  also 
on  Nov.  11,  1889,  General  Ramon  Corona , one  of  the  sanest 
and  best  governors  the  state  ever  had,  died  from  knife  wounds 
inflicted  by  a lunatic.  A handsome  statue  to  this  enlightened 
governor  stands  in  the  Jardin  de  San  Francisco.  The  calle 
which  flanks  this  jardin  was  named  in  his  honor. 

Perhaps  the  most  interesting  example  of  ecclesiastical 
architecture  in  Guadalajara  is  the  old  convent  Church  of 
Santa  Monica  (PI.  C,  4),  on  the  street  of  the  same  name, 
in  the  W.  portion  of  the  city.  The  longitudinal  facade  is 
highly  ornamented  in  a sort  of  elaborate  Plateresquey  intri- 
cately carved  in  many  designs.  The  big  statue,  now  in  a ruin- 
ous state,  of  San  Cristobal,  at  one  comer,  is  17th  cent,  work; 
as  indicated  by  the  double-headed  eagle  that  appears  in  two 
places.  The  facade  of  this  old  ch.  is  one  of  the  “sights”  of 
Guadalajara.  The  two  entrances  lead  into  the  single  nave, 
which  is  smaller  than  the  exterior  would  indicate.  The  white 
and  gold  altars  which  adorn  the  sides  of  the  nave  are  modem. 
The  interior  contains  nothing  of  particular  interest  to  the 
traveller. 

The  Cathedral  (PI.  C,  4),  the  head  of  the  score  or  more 
Catholic  churches  of  the  city,  was  begun  July  31,  1571,  and 
completed  and  consecrated  Feb.  19,  1618;  the  corner-stone 
was  laid  by  the  Ilustrisimo  Bishop  Ayala.  The  edifice  was 
much  injured  by  the  severe  earthquake  of  1750;  that  of  1818 
destroyed  the  facade  and  threw  down  the  towers  — which 
were  rebuilt  to  be  again  demolished  31  years  later  and  from 
a similar  cause. 

Owing  to  the  reconstruction  necessitated  by  these  earth- 


Cathedral. 


GUADALAJARA 


35.  Route.  167 


quakes,  and  to  the  ecclesiastical  rage  for  renovations  — which 
oftentimes  produces  lamentable  results  — the  structure  re- 
presents such  a medley  of  incongruous  and  irreconcilable 
architectural  features  that  it  has  been  the  object  of  much 
caustic  criticism  by  lovers  of  the  fine  old  Spanish  structures 
which  dot  the  Republic.  The  original  idea  of  the  builders 
seems  to  have  been  to  erect  a Gothic  pile,  but  during  numer- 
ous reconstructions  Tuscan,  Arabic,  Mudejar,  Corinthian, 
Byzantine,  Doric  and  other  enrichments  have  been  added; 
the  present  structure  is  therefore  a somewhat  unique,  though 
not  wholly  inharmonious,  blend  of  many  orders.  Hardly  a 
single  architectonic  phase  is  wanting.  Albeit  the  assembling 
of  these  various  styles  produces  a somewhat  fantastic  result, 
with  a tendency  to  over-elaboration,  the  non-critical  traveller 
will  admit  that  its  very  extravagance  is  interesting,  as  its 
exuberant  development  recalls  certain  of  the  sumptuous 
pagan  temples  of  India  and  of  the  Far  East.  It  is  perhaps  the 
most  striking  example  in  Mexico  of  the  Transitional  Style 
as  applied  to  a prominent  cathedral. 

The  huge  structure  is  so  hemmed  in  on  three  sides  that  it  is 
difficult  to  find  a point  whence  its  immense  proportions  can 
be  studied  to  advantage.  It  flanks  the  Plaza  Mayor  and  has 
two  side  entrances  leading  therefrom;  the  main  entrance, 
with  three  sets  of  massive  doors,  faces  the  Avenida  Alcalde , 
while  another  door,  used  chiefly  as  an  exit,  opens  onto  the 
Jar  din  de  la  Soledad.  The  Spanish-Moorish  section,  which 
overlooks  the  plaza  and  the  Palacio  de  Gobierno , is  where  the 
sacristdn  dwells.  The  building  is  in  the  form  of  a parallel- 
ogram 200  ft.  long  by  110  ft.  wide,  with  a fine  new  cupola 
(above  the  Basilica)  completed  in  1908.  The  large  leaded 
glass  windows,  of  the  12  Apostles,  in  this  superstructure, 
are  the  work  of  Mexican  artisans.  The  yellow  and  white  tiles, 
in  the  Mudejar  style,  wrought  in  the  Greek  key-pattern  which 
adorns  the  striking  cimborio,  recall  some  of  the  gorgeous 
domes  of  Persia  and  Hindustan. 

The  pyramidal  Byzantine  Towers  which  dominate  the  city 
and  are  visible  for  miles  around,  are  200  ft.  high  and  they 
command  attention  by  being  quite  unlike  anything  in  Mexico. 
Lines  of  incandescent  lamps  lead  along  the  ridges  to  the  pin- 
nacles, and  when  illuminated  the  effect  is  strikingly  attractive 
— if  somewhat  theatrical.  The  view  from  the  towers  is  very 
fine  and  should  not  be  omitted  (small  fee  to  the  sacristdn). 
The  panorama  embraces  San  Pedro , many  suburban  towns 
and  an  extensive  sweep  of  the  pleasant  campiha.  In  one  of 
the  towers  is  a bell,  La  Campanita  del  Correo , which  is  struck 
only  on  momentous  occasions.  The  dome  was  once  shattered 
by  lightning,  and  for  many  years  thereafter,  at  the  approach 
of  thunderstorms,  another  bell,  San  Clemente , was  rung  to 
ward  off  the  danger.  After  this  bell  had  failed  several  times 


168  Route  35,  GUADALAJARA  Cathedral . 

of  its  purpose,  the  ch.  was  equipped  with  the  lightning-rods  of 
the  heretics. 

A handsome  iron  reja  of  native  workmanship  encloses  the 
spacious  atrium.  The  fagade  is  decorated  in  brown  and  white 
tints.  The  great  doors,  which  are  swung  on  huge  pivots  let 
into  the  stone  floor  and  the  upper  cross-beams  in  the  singular 
fashion  mentioned  at  p.  444,  and  wdiich  are  studded  with  a 
multiplicity  of  iron  bosses  and  knockers  (Sp.  llamadores;  Ara- 
bic aldabones),  are  interesting  examples  of  early  craftsmanship. 
Above  the  central  entrance  is  the  inscription : Esta  Iglesia  cate- 
dral  fue  agregadaen  15  de  Junio  de  1862  a la  Basilica  Later  an- 
ense  de  Roma — this  cathedral  church  w-as  added  to  the  Roman 
Lateran  Basilica  June  15,  1862.  (The  See  of  Guadalajara  was 
founded  July  31.  1548,  under  the  invocation  of  the  Holy  Vir- 
gin and  the  Apostle  Saint  James.  It  was  elevated  to  an  Arch- 
bishopric Mch.  16,  1863.)  The  niched  figures  are  those  of  the 
Apostles  ; the  basso-relievo  group  in  the  pediment  represents  a 
scene  from  the  Assumption  of  the  Virgin.  Surmounting  this 
fan-shaped  pediment  is  a little  clock-tow'er,  sentinelled  by  the 
needle-like  spires.  The  entire  decoration  of  the  facade  dates 
from  1907. 

The  ornate,  rather  than  artistic,  Interior,  with  its  im- 
mense nave  and  flanking  aisles,  decorated  in  white  and  gold, 
is  very  striking:  the  notable  lack  of  Churrigueresque  and 
Baroque  fitments  — so  much  a part  of  most  Mexican  cathe- 
drals — makes  it  resemble  a foreign  church.  The  customary 
tall  gilded  retable  is  lacking  behind  the  high  altar,  but  its 
absence  is  made  up  by  the  fine  coro,  wdiich  is  usually  flooded 
with  opalescent  light  from  the  great  leaded  glass  window's 
high  above.  Ten  massive  engaged  columns  with  gilded  Doric 
capitals  divide  the  nave  from  the  broad  aisles,  and  from  them 
and  their  corresponding  pilasters  spring  the  many  graceful 
and  pointed  arches  wrhich  support  the  triple- vaulted  ceiling. 
The  nave  wras  formerly  intercepted  by  the  choir  — customary 
in  Spanish  cathedrals  — but  it  wTas  removed  in  1827.  The 
great  organ  in  its  loft  above  the  W.  entrance  is  too  large  for 
its  setting  and  it  imparts  a queer  look  to  that  end  of  the  ch. 
The  inscription  along  the  base  of  the  loft  advises  that  “this 
temple  wras  consecrated  Oct.  22,  1716.”  The  small  Greek 
crosses  in  gilt  frames,  which  hang  against  the  piers  and  pilas- 
ters, represent  the  14  Stations  of  the  Cross.  The  carved  con- 
fessionals which  stand  at  various  points  carry  inscriptions, 
certain  of  them  to  the  effect  that  “Your  sins  will  be  pardoned 
and  you  will  go  in  peace”  — Vuestros  pecados  seran  per  don- 
ados  e ireis  en  paz.  Above  all  the  chapels  and  altars  are  me- 
dallion-like paintings  of  allegorical  subjects. 

The  Chapel  of  la  Soledad,  first  on  the  r.  as  we  enter,  contains 
a pasillo  w^hich  leads  into  the  Basilica.  The  next  chapel,  dedi- 
cated to  Santa  Teresa , is  followed  by  the  Capilla  de  San  Juan 


Sacristy. 


GUADALAJARA 


35.  Route.  169 


Nepomuceno.  None  of  these  are  interesting.  The  next,  Chapel 
of  La  Purisima  Virgen,  is  the  finest  in  the  ch.  An  inscription 
above  the  entrance  advises  that  it  was  dedicated  Dec.  8,  1877. 
An  iron  grill,  usually  closed  and  locked,  separates  it  from 
the  aisle,  and  the  entrance  is  guarded  by  two  seated  figures 
of  the  Doctors  of  the  Church.  High  above  is  a handsome 
painting  representing  Christ  driving  out  the  money  changers. 
This  picture,  now  so  high  up  that  a glass  is  necessary  to  inspect 
it  carefully,  once  hung  above  the  W.  entrance;  to  fit  the  pres- 
ent space  it  w~as  cut  down  and  the  date  and  the  painter’s 
name  were  cut  off.1  The  allegorical  paintings  which  flank  the 
main  altar  are  without  merit.  The  side  altars  are  dedicated 
to  San  Pascual  and  S.  Pedro.  The  tombs  of  former  Bishops 
of  the  diocese  are  good  examples  of  Mexican  sculpture. 

The  Carrancista  soldiers  used  the  Cathedral  as  a stable  dur- 
ing the  revolution,  and  the  marks  of  their  occupation  are  visi- 
ble in  many  places  in  the  interior. 

The  coffin  at  the  r.  of  the  posillo  to  the  sacristy  contains 
the  body  of  Bishop  Garatito,  who  died  abo.ut  200  years  ago. 

We  enter  the  Sacristy  through  the  pasillo  at  the  r.  of  the 
presbytery.  The  pictures  on  the  walls  of  the  passageway  are 
of  early  bishops  and  canons  of  the  ch.  The  huge,  carved  wood 
door  opening  into  the  sacristy  is  usually  locked,  but  a small  fee 
will  gain  one  ready  admission.  The  large  painting  in  a massive 
gilt  frame  which  fills  the  end  of  the  room  is  a copy  (by  Felipe 
Castro)  of  Rafael’s  La  Santisima  Trinidad , now  in  Rome.2 
The  fine  old  stained  estante,  which  contains  the  ch.  vestments, 
dates  from  1700,  and  is  made  of  cedarwood  from  the  Barranca 
de  Oblatos.  Within  the  Sacristy  is  the  most  precious  possession 
of  the  Cathedral  (unless  hidden  to  prevent  its  falling  into  revo- 
lutionary hands),  Bartolome  Esteban  Murillo’s  Assumption 
of  the  Virgin.  On  request  the  sacristan  will  provide  an  opera- 
glass  for  a closer  inspection  of  it.  In  point  of  color  and  fresh- 
ness this  picture  is  perhaps  superior  to  any  of  the  pictures  by 
this  master,  in  American  collections,  and  it  is  the  equal  of  many 
of  those  distributed  throughout  Europe.  It  is  a beautiful 
example  of  Murillo’s  best  manner,  and  the  longer  the  enthusi- 
ast looks  upon  it  the  stronger  becomes  its  attractiveness.  Even 
the  ordinary  superficial  sightseer  cannot  fail  to  be  impressed  by 
the  solemn  beauty  of  this  canvas.  The  tender  loveliness  of  the 
Virgin’s  face  and  the  wistfulness  of  the  great  eyes  are  very 
striking.  Art-lovers  who  have  studied  the  almost  priceless 


1 This  is  a common  form  of  vandalism  in  Mexican  churches.  Many 
splendid  paintings  are  found  without  name  or  date,  and  the  ch.  records 
make  no  mention  of  them.  The  fine  picture  in  the  sacristy  of  the  Morelia 
Cathedral,  described  at  p.  204,  is  another  instance  in  point. 

2 In  the  original  the  holy  founders  of  different  religious  orders  stand 
near  the  foot:  while  in  the  copy  two  of  these  have  been  replaced  by 
figures  of  Santo  Tomas  de  A quino  and  San  Bernardo.  The  general  effect  is 
injured  by  the  flood  of  light  which  pours  upon  the  picture. 


170  Route  35.  GUADALAJARA  Sacristy. 

paintings  by  this  master  in  the  Madrid  Gallery  have  perchance 
been  haunted  by  the  absorbing  charm  of  his  Madonnas  — 
paintings  in  which  he  excelled.  Their  faces  wear  an  indefinable 
attraction  which  differentiates  them  from  all  others.  The 
ineffable  mystery  of  the  liquid,  melancholy  eyes,  the  tender, 
almost  visibly  trembling  mouth,  and  the  beauty  of  the  gen- 
eral expression  places  them  in  a class  apart.  Murillo’s  women 
seem  to  belong  more  to  the  20th  century  than  to  that  in  which 
the  great  artist  lived  and  painted  and  loved,  and  this  is, 
mayhap,  why  the  present  day  devotees  love  them  best.  The 
Murillo  faces  are  so  distinctive  that  a glimpse  of  one  usually 
enables  the  art -lover  to  recognize,  at  a glance,  all  the  others. 
The  “ immortal  ray  of  the  soul  ” shines  through  the  eyes  of  his 
Madonnas  in  a way  that  thrills  the  observer  and  impresses 
the  picture  on  his  mind.  In  art  Velasquez  is  spoken  of  as  an 
eagle,  Murillo  as  an  angel.  The  latter  is  thought  to  combine 
the  truth  of  Velasquez  with  the  vigorous  effects  of  Ribera, 
the  harmonious  transparency  of  Titian,  and  the  brilliant 
vivacity  of  Rubens.  Spain  gave  him  the  name  of  Pintor 
de  las  Concepciones  (painter  of  the  Conceptions)  because  he 
was  insuperable  in  the  art  of  representing  the  divine  idea. 

When  Spain  was  in  the  throes  of  the  Peninsular  War  it  was  hard- 
pushed  for  funds  with  which  to  repel  Naooleon  I and  his  invading  army. 
Mexico,  along  with  the  other  Crown  Colonies,  was  drawn  upon,  and 
Nueva  Galicia  (and  Guadalajara  in  particular)  responded  promptly  and 
nobly  to  the  appeal  for  help.  The  church  corporation  was  indefatigable 
in  its  efforts  to  raise  money,  and  many  of  the  silver  candelabra  and  other 
ornaments  were  melted  and  converted  into  cash  to  swell  the  King’s 
war-chest.  As  an  evidence  of  his  gratitude  the  Spanish  monarch  pre- 
sented the  church  with  this  Murillo,  which  hung  for  many  years  on  the 
walls  of  the  Escorial.  During  the  French  invasion  of  Spain  (1812)  Mar- 
shal Soult  appropriated,  from  the  Seville  Cathedral,  a famous  Assump- 
tion by  Murillo,  which  now  hangs  in  the  Louvre  Gallery,  it  having  been 
purchased  bv  the  French  Govt,  from  his  heirs,  for  615,000  francs.  During 
the  French  Intervention  of  Mexico  (1S67)  an  effort  was  made  to  send  this 
picture  to  France.  Finding  the  clericals  too  wary  to  admit  of  its  being 
stolen.  Napoleon  III  offered  §40,000  for  it,  which  offer  was  refused. 
Attempts  were  then  made  to  secure  the  picture  by  fair  means  or  foul,  and 
to  prevent  its  expatriation  it  was  hidden  in  a secret  niche  in  the  wall, 
where  it  remained  for  ten  years.  The  French  troops  sought  it  in  vain. 
Almost  fabulous  sums  have  been  offered  for  this  canvas,  the  authenticity 
of  which  is  unquestioned. 

Leaving  the  sacristia  we  cross  the  pasillo , ascend  (on  the  r.) 
a short  flight  of  stone  steps  and  enter  the  coro.  The  silleria , 
of  fine  Cocobolo  wood  (from  the  forests  of  Tepic),  contains 
22  seats  in  the  lower  tier  (for  the  capellanos ),  30  in  the  upper 
(for  Los  canonigos ) and  a central  one  for  the  Archbishop,  or 
an  equally  high  ch.  dignitary.  The  sillas  are  beautifully 
polished  and  massive,  and  are  carved  after  Flemish  designs. 
The  stained-glass  windows  above  are  of  French  workman- 
ship. Most  of  those  in  the  body  of  the  church  are  from  the 
Mexican  house  of  Pellandini.  The  date  and  inscription  below 
the  Archbishop’s  seat  refer  to  the  four  marble  figures  (Saints 


Basilica . 


GUADALAJARA 


85.  Route.  171 


Mark,  Luke,  Matthew  and  John)  which  were  brought  from 
Italy  for  the  adornment  of  the  Altar  Mayor.  The  paintings 
of  these  santos , in  the  triangle  of  the  dome  above  the  siller  ia, 
are  the  work  of  the  Mexican  painter  Villasenor.  On  the  r. 
and  1.  walls  above  the  coro  are  two  curious  paintings  (medi- 
ocre) of  the  dead  Cristo.  The  striking  picture  at  the  1.  above 
the  first  railing,  La  Resurreccion,  is  the  work  of  Felipe  Castro , 
as  is  also  the  companion  piece,  La  Adoracion  de  los  Reyes. 
A small  picture  of  the  Virgin  in  a silver  frame  occupies  the 
place  of  honor  at  the  rear  of  the  tabernacle  — a simple  affair 
adorned  with  four  marble  figures  of  the  Apostles.  The  curious 
old  facistol,  studded  with  brass  nails  and  inlaid  with  tortoise- 
shell ( carey ) and  mother-of-pearl  ( madreperla  or  nacar),  con- 
tains some  quaint  and  crude  parchment  books  in  the  Latin. 
It  is  surmounted  by  a bronze  Cristo  crucified. 

The  Altar  Mayor,  once  celebrated  for  its  rich  silver  orna- 
ments, worth  many  thousands  of  pesos,  and  which  disap- 
peared during  the  revolution  of  1860,  is  provided  with  a small 
altar  on  its  four  sides,  from  which  mass  can  be  said  simul- 
taneously. The  four  figures  of  the  Evangelists  — each  with 
a bronze  name-plate  — are  of  Carrara  marble  and  are  the  work 
of  Genovese  sculptors;  they  are  admittedly  the  finest  sculp- 
tures of  their  class  in  Mexico.  The  communion  altar-rail 
( comulgatorio ) is  of  massive  bronze.  The  small  organ  above 
the  coro  is  used  in  the  daily  service;  that  in  the  organ  loft, 
above  the  W.  entrance,  is  used  only  on  special  occasions. 

When  the  morning  sun  floods  the  coro  and  the  presbiterio 
with  a wealth  of  light  filtered  through  the  colored  glass  win- 
dows, the  effect  is  beautiful.  A series  of  wheel  and  square 
windows,  above  the  lateral  altars,  admits  light  to  the  main 
body  of  the  ch. 

Descending  from  the  coro  (on  the  r.)  we  come  to  the  altar 
dedicated  to  Santa  Rosa  de  Lima  (comp.  p.  285).  Between 
this  and  the  next  altar,  San  Miguel,  is  the  sarcophagus  of 
the  3d  Bishop  of  Guadalajara,  Don  Francisco  Mendiola, 
whose  body,  so  the  report  goes,  is  uncorrupted  by  time  and 
is  as  perfectly  preserved  as  when  it  was  laid  away  more  than 
three  centuries  ago.  It  is  never  shown. 

The  next  altar  is  dedicated  to  Nuestra  Senora  de  Gua- 
dalupe; between  this  and  the  altar  of  El  Sefior  San  Jose 
is  the  exit  to  the  Jardin  de  la  Soledad.  The  altar  following  is 
dedicated  to  San  Clemente.  The  last  on  this  side  of  the  ch. 
contains  a Cristo  Crucificado  and  is  dedicated  to  El  Sen  or 
de  las  Aguas.  Hard  by  is  the  entrance  to  the  stairs  leading 
to  the  organ  loft. 

Diagonally  across  the  street  from  the  W.  entrance  to  the 
Cathedral  is  the  old  Palacio  Arzobispal,  or  Bishop’s  Palace, 
with  two  quaint,  squat  domes  and  a fine  patio. 

The  Basilica,  or  Sagrario,  adjoining  the  Cathedral  on  the 


172  Route  35. 


GUADALAJARA 


S.,  was  begun  in  1803,  completed  in  1843,  and  is  at  present  be- 
ing completely  renovated.  The  inscription  over  the  S.  entrance 
advises  that  the  edifice  is  due  to  the  piety  and  munificence 
of  the  Illustrious  Bishop  of  the  diocese,  Don  Francisco  Antonio 
Alcalde  (to  whose  memory  a monument  has  been  erected  in  the 
atrium  of  the  Santuario  de  Nuestra  Senora  de  Guadalupe , 
p.  175),  and  that  the  inscription  was  placed  there  in  1839. 
The  door  to  the  E.  of  this  entrance  leads  to  the  dwelling  of 
the  sacristan.  Above  the  W.  entrance  is  the  Latin  inscrip- 
tion : Deus  in  Domibus  Eius  Cognoscetur.  The  statues  crowning 
the  facade  are  Faith,  Hope,  and  Charity. 

The  Church  of  San  Francisco,  facing  the  plaza  and  Jardln  of 
the  same  name,  is  one  of  the  quaint  landmarks  and  is  gradually 
falling  beneath  its  weight  of  years.  The  old  Baroque  fagade 
and  the  elaborately  carved  portal  are  good  examples  of  early 
Spanish  craftsmanship.  The  twin  domes  — best  seen  from 
the  foot  of  San  Francisco  St.  — are  weather-beaten,  but  still 
sturdy  relics  of  the  forceful  architecture  of  the  very  earliest 
times;  for  the  ch.  dates  from  1550  and  is,  in  consequence,  one 
of  the  oldest  religious  foundations  in  western  Mexico.  The 
rusty  towers  with  their  clinging  vegetation  — the  rendezvous 
of  many  pigeons  which  nest  in  the  crannies  and  preen  them- 
selves on  the  sunlit  corners  — are  strangely  out  of  keeping  with 
the  modern  aspect  of  the  streets  below.  The  campanarios  are 
crumbling  to  decay,  and  the  thin,  complaining  notes  of  the  one- 
time melodious  bells  sound  like  prophetic  voices  from  the  shad- 
owy past.  These  towers  have,  perchance,  looked  down  upon 
many  a glittering  array  of  Spanish  knights,  vice-regal  trains, 
and  processions  of  cowied  monks  and  pensive  nuns,  for  Guada- 
lajara was  very  religious  in  the  early  days,  and  the  influence  of 
the  Reform  Laws  was  a long  time  taking  root  in  the  deep  eccle- 
siastical soil  of  the  state.  Its  thronging  memories  and  its 
quaint  architectural  features  are  all  that  make  this  old  ch.  in- 
teresting; save,  mayhap,  a remarkably  lifelike  polychrome 
figure  of  the  Christ  crucified,  which  is  a conspicuous  feature  of 
the  interior  and  which  haunts  the  mind  by  its  ghastliness.  The 
half-score  or  more  medallion-like  pictures  of  the  interior  are 
without  merit.  Two  of  the  entrances  to  the  ch.  lead  in  from 
the  Calle  facing  the  Jardin,  another  from  the  side  street.  An 
air  of  settled  melancholy  broods  above  the  old  structure. 

The  Jardin  de  San  Francisco  (midway  between  the  rly. 
station  and  the  plaza)  is  a rose-embowered  spot,  with  several 
fountains  and  some  fine  trees.  It  extends  quite  across  the 
lower  section  of  the  street  of  that  name  and  encloses  one  of 
the  most  commanding  monuments  in  the  city,  that  erected 
to  the  memory  of  General  Ramon  Corona.  A fine  bronze 
figure  of  this  general  and  one-time  governor  of  Jalisco  State 
surmounts  the  stone  base.  The  tablet  on  the  N.  face  refers 
to  him  as  a benemerito  of  the  state.  The  other  tablets  tell  of 


GUADALAJARA 


35.  Route.  173 


his  manifold  merits  and  of  episodes  in  his  military  career. 
Four  bronze  eagles  stand  at  the  corner  of  the  pedestal,  and 
from  the  angles  of  the  plinth  rise  clusters  of  electric  lamps. 
The  coat-of-arms  of  the  Repub.  and  of  Guadalajara  are  con- 
spicuous features  in  the  adornments. 

The  touch  of  the  mediaeval  which  characterizes  many  of 
the  Guadalajara  churches  is  very  apparent  in  the  fagade  and 
walls  of  the  old  Church  of  our  Lady  of  Aranzazu  — one 
of  the  four  churches  which  once  occupied  the  four  corners  of 
the  Jardin  de  San  Francisco.  The  N.  wall  parallels  the  S.  wall 
of  the  San  Francisco  church  (across  the  street)  and  faces  the 
jardin  of  that  name.  The  curious  old  belfry  totters  beneath 
the  weight  of  the  three  or  more  centuries  which  brood  over  it. 
The  huge  Churrigueresque  retablo  which  stands  behind  the 
altar  mayor  is  perhaps  the  finest  example  of  Churriguera’ s 
work  to  be  found  in  Guadalajara.  A side  altar  in  the  same  style 
is  unusually  rich  and  quaint.  Note  the  framed  picture  of 
Christ,  with  false  hair,  velvet  robes  and  other  realistic  adorn- 
ments. After  the  promulgation  of  the  Reform  Laws  this  ch. 
passed  to  private  ownership. 

El  Carmen  Church  (PI.  B,  4),  in  the  W.  district  of  the 
city,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Plaza  del  Carmen  (reached  by 
following  the  Calle  Lopez  Cotilla  to  San  Cristobal , then  turning 
to  the  right),  has  an  unprepossessing  exterior  of  gray  stone 
with  two  ugly  towers.  The  half-Roman,  half-Byzantine  in- 
terior is  interesting  because  of  a fine  nave  and  a high  vaulted 
ceiling  adorned  with  allegorical  scenes  from  the  Scriptures. 
The  pictures  are  the  work  of  native  painters.  That  inside 
of  the  dome,  in  a somewhat  ruinous  state,  is  by  Pablo  Valdez. 
In  the  spandrels  of  the  arches  are  idealized  paintings  of 
Esther , Judith,  Ruth  and  Maria  — the  sister  of  Aaron.  Among 
the  several  framed  pictures  which  hang  on  the  walls  is  a copy 
of  Murillo’s  Assumption  of  the  Virgin,  the  original  of  which 
is  in  the  Cathedral.  The  ch.  is  in  the  form  of  a Greek  cross; 
the  chapels  in  the  transepts  are  over-decorated  and  theatrical. 
The  sacristia,  to  the  right  of  the  altar  mayor , contains  a few 
relics  of  local  interest.  In  the  large  chapel  to  the  left  is  a 
representation  of  Calvary,  a combination  of  mural  painting 
and  high-relief  work ; the  crucified  figure  being  somewhat  im- 
posing. The  chief  feature  of  the  high  altar  is  the  polychrome 
figure  of  the  Virgen  del  Carmen  (the  work  of  Acuna),  patroness 
of  the  ch.  Both  the  Virgin  and  the  Child  wear  crowns  of  massy 
gold  with  spurious  jewels.  The  painting  of  the  Virgin  of 
Dolores,  in  the  sacristy,  is  attributed  to  Titian,  but  it  is  more 
than  likely  the  work  of  Jose  Rodriguez  Juarez  (p.  cl)  or  one 
of  his  pupils : the  church  authorities  consider  it  a masterpiece. 
The  unsigned  painting  of  the  Holy  Family  (one  of  many 
hundreds  in  Mexico)  is  attributed  to  Jose  Ribera. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  Plaza  del  Carmen  is  a government 


174  Route  35. 


GUADALAJARA 


barrack.  Keeping  this  to  the  r.  and  continuing  along  the 
CaUe  de  Benito  Juarez  we  cross  the  intersecting  Cattes  del 
Pavo  and  de  Escobedo , to  the  large  Jardin  Juarez  with  many 
orange  trees.  The  Penitentiary  (see  below)  extends  along  the 
entire  W.  side.  The  plaza  contains  a red  sandstone  shaft  sur- 
mounted by  a bronze  bust  of  Benito  Juarez . The  inscription 
on  the  marble  tablet  advises  that  the  Ayuntamiento  of  Guada- 
lajara erected  the  shaft  to  the  memory  of  B.  Juarez,  Bene- 
merito  de  las  Americas.  At  the  N.  end  of  the  plaza  is  a bronze 
bust,  placed  by  the  Ayuntamiento,  to  commemorate  the  fame 
of  the  progressive  and  humanitarian  Don  Antonio  Escobedo , 
one-time  governor  of  the  state.  The  street  which  parallels 
the  jardin  on  the  E.  is  called  Calle  de  la  Penitenciaria. 

The  Penitentiary  (PI.  B,  4)  is  to  Guadalajara  what  the 
splendid,  land-locked  harbor  of  Sydney  is  to  the  people  of 
New  South  Wales.  In  SjMney  the  traveller  is  asked  “How  do 
you  like  our  harbor?  ” In  Guadalajara  the  query  is:  “Have 
you  been  in  our  penitenciaria  ? 5;  Most  folks  class  such  an  estab- 
lishment in  the  same  category  with  a cemetery  and  consider 
it  the  “ last  place  to  go  to.’5  In  Mexico  things  are  different. 
The  Guadalajara  people  regard  their  fortress-like  prison  with 
genuine  affection.  They  enthuse  over  the  massiveness  of  its 
walls,  the  solidity  of  its  cells,  the  severe  but  just  regimen  and 
the  extreme  difficulty  of  escaping  from  it  — cheerful  informa- 
tion and  conducive  to  a careful  treading  of  the  alleged  narrow 
path  of  rectitude;  at  least  while  in  the  State  of  Jalisco. 
The  structure  is  of  monumental  proportions,  the  original 
idea  being  apparently  to  make  it  large  enough  to  accommodate 
the  entire  population  should  the  occasion  arise.  The  form 
is  that  of  an  oblong  square,  with  a huge  front  patio  and  a large 
Doric  portico.  The  perfume  of  the  orange  blossoms  which 
thrive  in  the  court  seems  strangely  out  of  place  in  so  lugu- 
brious a structure.  The  16  galleries  ( galerias ) flanked  by  800 
strongly-barred  cells  ( celdas ) converge  toward  a central  patio. 
The  patio  in  the  rear  serves  as  a cemetery.  The  high  and 
immensely  solid  walls  are  patrolled  by  armed  guards  and 
lighted  by  arc  lamps.  Dante’s  dictum  when  he  entered  Hell 
should  be  inscribed  above  the  main  doorway. 

The  Santuario  de  San  Jose  de  Gracia  (PI.  C,  4),  facing 
a pretty  garden  of  the  same  name,  with  some  brilliant  flower- 
ing trees  and  a bust  of  General  Jose  Silverio  Nunez , is  reached 
by  following  (from  the  Cathedral)  the  Are.  Alcalde  which 
skirts  the  Jardin  and  ch.  of  La  Soledad.  The  edifice  (com- 
pleted Nov.  26,  1890)  has  a somewhat  severe  facade,  a tower 
and  belfry  of  red  sandstone,  and  a strikingly  attractive  dome 
covered  with  blue  and  white  tiles  in  the  Mudejar  style,  and 
visible  from  a great  distance.  Despite  its  austere  exterior 
this  ch.  has  perhaps  the  most  richly  decorated  interior,  in  the 
modern  style,  in  Guadalajara.  An  excess  of  gold-leaf  in  the 


GUADALAJARA 


85.  Route.  175 


ornamentation  imparts  an  appearance  of  ostentation,  which 
is  relieved,  however,  by  the  elegant  cimborio  with  15  miniature 
Corinthian  columns  with  gilt  capitals  flanked  by  an  equal 
number  of  windows,  and  8 small  allegorical  paintings,  the 
work  of  local  artists. 

The  Altar  Mayor , the  central  figure  of  which  is  the  Sefior 
San  Jose,  is  a gorgeous  affair  — both  striking  and  costly.  The 
small  twin  columns  which  flank  the  relicario  are  silver-plated 
only.  Near  by  are  some  picture-frames  ( marcos ) containing 
a host  of  votive  offerings  (tiny  legs,  arms,  heads,  bits  of  the 
internal  economy  and  whatnot)  symbolic  of  cures  due  to  the 
miraculous  intervention  of  the  saint  ( San  Jose)  to  whom  the 
ch.  is  dedicated.  Each  of  the  “cured  ones”  presents  the  silver 
symbol  and  25  c.  to  the  ch.  and  thus  has  his  name  enrolled 
on  the  records. 

The  attractive  old  Church  of  Jesus  Maria  (P1.C,4),  on  the 
corner  of  the  Calles  de  Contreras  Medellin  and  Morelos , has 
quaintly  carved  stone  figures  in  low  relief  above  the  entrances ; 
a single  tower,  used  as  a belfry,  and  a well-proportioned 
cimborio.  The  paved  atrium  contains  a number  of  orange 
trees.  The  iron  reja  which  separates  it  from  the  street  is  of 
local  workmanship.  Adjoining  the  ch.  is  an  ecclesiastical 
school.  The  chief  object  of  interest  within  the  ch.  is  a much 
venerated  figure  of  the  Santisima  Virgen  del  Rayo  (Most  Holy 
Virgin  of  the  Thunderbolt).  According  to  tradition,  on  Aug. 
18,  1807,  at  2 p.  m.,  during  a terrific  thunderstorm,  the  figure 
of  the  Virgin  was  seen  to  change  its  position,  smile,  wink  and 
manifest  a mundane  interest  in  the  affairs  of  the  ch.  — which 
she  saved  from  destruction  (by  lightning)  by  her  intervention. 
Because  of  this  providential  act  and  the  many  marvellous 
cures  performed  since  that  date,  she  was  crowned  amid  solemn 
and  glittering  ceremonies  a century  later,  Aug.  18,  1907  — 
a somewhat  tardy  recognition. 

The  weather-beaten  Church  of  San  Felipe  Neri  (PL  C,  4), 
on  the  Calle  de  Contreras  Medellin , is  a wholesome  and  sturdy 
example  of  the  best  type  of  architecture  that  characterizes 
some  of  the  Guadalajara  churches.  The  half-obliterated  in- 
scription above  the  main  entrance  gives  the  date  of  the  erec- 
tion of  the  ch.  as  1801,  but  this  evidently  refers  to  a renova- 
tion, as  the  foundation  is  perhaps  a century  older.  The  fine 
old  facade,  an  adaptation  of  the  Churrigueresque , is  a striking 
| example  of  the  one-time  magnificence  of  the  structure.  The 
j interior  is  now  shorn  of  its  early  adornments.  The  immense 
pile  is  best  seen  from  the  side  street. 

The  Santuario  de  Nuestra  Sehora  de  Guadalupe  (PI.  C,  3) 

> is  reached  by  following  the  Avenida  Alcalde  from  the  Cathe- 
I dral  (£  M.  North)  to  the  unkempt  Plaza  de  Hidalgo , with  a 
bronze  monument  to  that  hero.  The  dates  1753  and  1811,  on 
the  pedestal,  refer  to  Hidalgo’s  birth  and  death.  The  church 


176  Route  35. 


GUADALAJARA 


flanks  this  plaza  on  the  N.  “It  is  a sturdy,  wholesome  ex- 
ample of  the  early  Guadalajara  archi lecture  at  its  best.  It 
has  a facade  that  is  unique,  with  its  Carmelite  belfries  and 
the  remarkable  buttresses  that  flank  the  portal.  The  new 
dome,  the  work  of  Manuel  Perez  Gomez , in  its  modem  French 
elegance  scarcely  harmonizes  with  the  Spanish  simplicity  of 
the  old  structure.”  The  cruciform  interior  is  over-decorated. 
The  central  figure  of  the  main  altar  is  a copy  of  the  painting  of 
the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe,  to  whom  the  ch.  is  dedicated.  The 
date,  1531,  refers  to  the  Virgin’s  apparition  to  Juan  Diego 
(comp.  p.  394).  The  pictures  on  the  wralls  are  modern  and  by 
local  painters.  Every  inch  of  the  interior  (which  was  made 
over  in  1895)  bears  some  sort  of  decoration,  not,  unfortun- 
ately, in  the  best  taste.  The  numerous  polychrome  roods 
and  Cantos  are  of  Spanish  origin.  Eight  of  these  figures  alone 
are  grouped  around  the  main  altar.  Above  the  entrance  is  an 
inscription  to  the  effect  that  the  temple  was  consecrated  May 
24,  1893.  The  main  structure  dates  from  about  1550.  A rude  | 
monument  in  the  W.  corner  of  the  atrium  stands  to  the 
memory  of  Bishop  Francisco  Antonio  Alcalde  and  dates  from 
1783.  The  various  inscriptions  refer  to  the  erection  of  the 
shaft,  and  to  the  virtues  of  the  good  man. 

The  Teatro  Degollado  (PI.  D,4),  in  the  Plaza  de  San 
Agustin  (in  the  rear  of  the  Palaeio  de  Gobierno),  one  of  the 
most  imposing  edifices  in  the  Repub.,  was  begun  in  1855  and  I 
completed  in  1866,  during  the  administration  of  Governor  1 
Degollado.  The  handsome  Corinthian  portico  and  the  oviform  £ 
rotunda  with  its  attractive  piers  are  noteworthy.  The  interior  I 
has  a seating  capacity  of  3,000  and  is  more  impressive  by  its  | 
size  than  by  the  beauty  of  its  enrichments. 

The  Templo  de  San  Agustin  (PI.  D,  4),  facing  the  Degollado  I 
Theatre,  is  a time-stained  edifice  with  a huge  single  nave  from  i 
which  springs  a quaint  groined  arch  of  17th  century  workman-  j; 
ship.  The  chapels,  altars,  and  life-size  saints  are  not  particu-p 
larly  interesting.  The  massiveness  which  is  the  general  charac- 1 
teristic  of  Guadalajara  architecture  is  exemplified  in  this,  I 
and  others  of  the  older  churches.  This  trait  is  largely  ascribed  I 
to  the  violence  of  the  earthquakes  that  occasionally  occur! 
and  which  have  been  attended  at  times  by  some  destruction.; 
A Colegio  de  la  Inmaculada  Concepcion  joins  the  ch.  on  the  E.l 

Diagonally  across  from  the  rear  of  the  Degollado  Theatre  is  gj 
the  old  (PI.  D,4)  Templo  de  Santa  Maria  de  Gracia  (two  I 
entrances)  with  an  elaborate  cdtar  mayor  directly  beneath  the  I 
cimborio.  Opposite  the  W.  entrance,  let  into  the  wall,  is  a 
recess  with  a barred  door.  A sanguinary  and  utterly  sadden-  I 
ing  figure  of  Christ  stands  behind  the  bars  and  gazes  wistfullylj 
out,  like  a maimed  and  forgotten  criminal. 

The  old  Indian  Church  of  Mexicaltzingo  (PI.  C,  5),  dedi-i 
cated  to  San  Juan  Bautista , faces  the  Mexicaltzingo  market fi 


GUADALAJARA 


35.  Route.  177 


at  the  N.  end  of  the  city  and  is  the  choice  of  the  natives  of 
that  barrio.  The  ch.  is  a huge,  weather-beaten  structure,  with 
a vast  atrium.  The  neighborhood  is  not  distinguished  for 
pulchritude,  and  travellers  will  scarcely  be  repaid  for  the  time 
spent  in  visiting  it. 

There  are  many  other  churches  of  minor  note  in  Guadalajara, 
but  only  the  traveller  with  ample  time  and  a taste  for  the 
bizarre  in  architecture,  and  interior  adornment,  would  care 
to  spend  the  time  visiting  them.  Besides,  not  all  of  them  are 
entirely  free  from  microbes. 

The  Bull-Ring  (comp.  p.  xcvii)  stands  near  the  Hospicio 
(see  below)  and  has  for  its  patrons  the  fringe  of  society. 

The  Biblioteca  P^blica  del  Estado  (state  library)  con- 
tains several  thousand  volumes  chiefly  in  the  Spanish  lan- 
guage. The  antiquary  will  find  more  old  documents  of  merit 
in  the  library  of  the  Palacio  Municipal  at  Mexico  City. 

El  Hospicio  (Hospice),  an  imposing  building  with  a large 
portico  supported  by  six  massive  Tuscan  columns,  stands 
at  the  top  of  the  Calle  del  Hospicio  (PL  D,  4),  8 squares  E. 
of  the  Gov’t  Palace.  A tram-line  runs  from  the  plaza , fare  6 
cts.  Reached  on  foot  in  ten  minutes.  A card  of  admission 
(obtainable  through  the  Consul)  is  necessary.  Passing 
through  the  portico  we  reach  a fine  Moorish  patio  flanked 
by  cloister-like  corridors.  On  the  left  is  the  church  ( Iglesia 
del  Hospicio)  in  the  form  of  a Greek  cross  surmounted  by  a 
handsome  cupola  visible  from  many  parts  of  the  city.  Sur- 
mounting this  cupola  is  a squat,  “home-made”  statue  of 
Mercy  scarcely  in  keeping  with  the  style  of  the  edifice.  In  the 
rear  of  the  church  is  a beautiful  garden  of  flowers  and  fruit 
trees.  Within  the  hospicio  walls  are  21  other  gardens,  all 
carefully  tended  and  redolent  of  semi-tropical  flowers.  The 
general  plan  of  the  enclosure  is  that  of  a vast  parallelogram 
610  ft.  long  by  560  wide.  The  institution  (very  commendable) 
was  founded  by  Juan  Ruiz  Cabanas  in  1803.  Besides  being 
a refuge  and  home  for  the  aged  and  the  orphan,  it  is  a sort  of 
training-school  for  those  girls  who  wish  to  occupy  their  time 
profitably.  They  are  taught  to  make  lace,  fans,  embroidery, 
wax-flowers  and  the  like.  Some  of  the  finest  of  the  Mexican 
drawn-linen  is  made  here  by  the  deft  fingers  of  orphan  children. 
It  is  not  retailed  at  the  Hospicio , however,  but  is  usually  con- 
tracted for  by  high-class  dealers  in  antiques. 

The  handsome  bronze  Monument  to  Hidalgo,  at  the  S.  end 
of  the  Calzada  de  la  Independencia  (PL  D,  5),  was  erected  in 
1910  to  commemorate  El  centenario  de  la  proclamacion  de  la 
independencia  y abolicion  de  la  esclavitud  (the  centenary  of  the 
proclamation  of  independence  and  the  abolition  of  slavery). 
The  crowning  object  is  a heroic  figure  of  Hidalgo  leading  the 
Mexicans  to  liberty.  A number  of  minor  figures  embellish  the 
shaft  and  zocle;  all  symbolical  of  the  greatest  event  in  Mexican 
history. 


178 


EXCURSIONS  FROM  GUADALAJARA 


The  Laguna  del  Agua  Azul  (blue- water),  a lakelet  in  the  j 
centre  of  a half-wild  park  in  the  outskirts  of  the  city  (PI.  C,  6),  1 
is  reached  by  tram-cars  which  leave  the  Portal  Hidalgo  every  I 
20  min.  during  the  day.  Children  thoroughly  enjoy  this  1 
recreation  ground.  There  is  good  music  (sometimes),  the  air  1 
is  pure  and  the  scenery  attractive.  The  lake  is  shallow  and 
practically  currentless  and  there  are  boats  at  75  c.  the  hr. 
Picturesque  little  water-ways  wind  in  and  out  of  the  marshes 
and  the  islets  contain  water-fowl  and  flowers.  When  unde- 
filed the  waters  reflect  the  blue  sky  and  take  on  a light  indigo 
color  — hence  the  name. 

Excursions  from  Guadalajara. 

The  lover  of  handsome  old  churches  will  be  amply  re-  ! 
paid  for  the  short  excursion  to  the  small  town  of  Zapopan, 
reached  in  about  40  min.  by  the  tram-cars  (fare  16  c.)  which 
leave  every  20  minutes  from  the  W.  side  of  the  Cathedral. 
The  line  runs  out  through  the  suburbs  and  passes  through  the 
little  village  of  Temajac.  Soon  after  leaving  Guadalajara 
the  spires  of  the  Zapopan  ch.  are  seen  in  the  distance.  The 
cars  stop  in  front  of  the  atrium.  The  ch.  is  a finely  preserved 
specimen  of  17th  century  work  with  an  unusually  attractive 
facade  in  the  Plateresque  style.  The  shapely  towers  are  elab- 
orately ornamented ; the  bases  are  plastered  over  with  swal- 
lows’ nests.  The  dome  is  decorated  in  the  Mudejar  style  with 
colored  tiles  formed  into  the  Greek  key-pattern.  The  cruciform 
interior  is  chiefly  notable  for  the  fine  marble  altar  in  the  apse. 

The  Barranca  de  Oblatos,  a deep  gorge  on  the  Oblatos 
Hacienda , 5 M.  (to  the  S.-W.)  from  Guadalajara,  is  connected 
with  the  city  by  a highway  and  a tram-line.  It  can  be  reached 
on  horseback  in  about  1 hr.  from  the  hotel.  The  ride  is  a very  i 
pleasant  one  and  on  the  outward  and  return  journey  a fine 
view  of  the  surrounding  country  can  be  had.  Horses  for  the 
round  trip  $2.  Apply  to  the  hotel  manager.  If  you  want  the 
animal  at  6 a.  m.  order  it  for  sharp  five. 

Tram-cars  leave  at  stated  intervals  (usually  1 hr.  apart)  I 
from  the  centre  of  the  city,  near  the  Palacio  de  Gobierno.  1 
Fare.  2d  cl.  20  c.  each  way.  First  cl.  cars  are  run  only  on 
special  occasions.  After  passing  the  old  garita  (custom-house)  I 
on  the  edge  of  town  the  grade  slopes  upward  and  the  line  i 
winds  across  cornfields,  groves  of  castor-beans,  scrubby 
woodland  and  haciendas  dotted  with  half-wild  cattle.  As  we  ] 
near  the  end  of  the  line  the  grade  slopes  downward,  and  j 
we  pass  through  some  rough  country  with  cacti  and  trees,  i 
A time-stained  old  Spanish  bridge  and  a presa  for  collecting  j 
water  are  seen  on  the  left  as  we  climb  the  short  ascent  near 
the  barranca  edge.  The  cars  stop  within  a stone’s  throw  of 
the  gorge.  The  long,  low  building  at  the  brink  is  used  as  a 


SAN  PEDRO  TLAQUEPAQUE  35.  Rte.  179 


dance-hall,  and  as  a species  of  restaurant  on  dias  de  fiesta. 
The  view  into  the  canon  is  magnificent ; recalling,  in  a way, 
the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Colorado  (U.  S.  A.)  at  Bright  Angel 
Trail.  Some  huge  rocks  hang  at  a somewhat  perilous  angle 
over  the  rift,  which  is  verdure  covered  from  the  brink  to  the 
turgid  river  which  dashes  through  it  two  thousand  or  more 
feet  below.  When  the  wind  is  from  the  right  quarter  the  roar 
of  the  stream  is  distinctly  heard  at  the  brink.  Midway  between 
the  river  and  the  edge  of  the  plateau  are  patches  of  cultivated 
land  which  produce  some  of  the  fine  fruits  and  vegetables  seen 
in  the  Guadalajara  markets.  As  these  miniature  farms  lie  a 
full  thousand  ft.  lower  than  the  plain,  fruits  will  thrive  which 
refuse  to  mature  above.  Still  further  down,  the  climate  is 
more  tropical,  and  the  vegetation  changes  as  we  descend. 
This  gorge  is  a sort  of  cornucopia  of  riches  for  the  city  mar- 
kets, which  are  usually  stocked  with  delicious  tropical  fruits 
grown  within  five  miles  of  them,  in  a hole  in  the  earth,  2,000 
ft.  lower  than  the  plaza  or  the  floor  of  the  Cathedral ! 

Near  the  river  edge  is  an  electric  station  which  generates 
power  and  distributes  it  to  distant  mills.  The  steel  rope-way 
to  the  left  of  the  old  storage  building  at  the  edge  of  the  gorge 
leads  to  this  station  and  conveys  supplies,  machinery  and 
the  like.  Any  of  the  peones  will  guide  one  to  the  bottom  and 
to  the  banks  of  the  Lerma  River , which  here  is  known  as  the 
Santiago  (St.  James).  The  toilsome  ascent  scarcely  repays 
one  for  the  trip.  Perpetual  summer  reigns  at  the  bottom, 
tropical  flowers  are  always  in  bloom,  and  the  cares  and  per- 
plexities of  the  work-a-day  world  are  as  remote  as  the  aver- 
age mortal  wishes  they  might  be.  But  cares  come  here  in  the 
guise  of  fierce  thunderstorms,  and  as  the  thunder  crashes  and 
echoes  against  the  canon  walls,  this  sound,  and  the  roar  of  the 
river,  are  awe-inspiring. 

Further  country  ward  is  another  and  yet  larger  barranca , 
reached  through  the  village  of  Zapopan. 

San  Pedro  Tlaquepaque,  or  San  Pedro  (St.  Peter),  a pic- 
turesque suburban  town  (pop.  4,500)  poised  on  the  summit 
of  a hill  5 kilom.  E.  of  Guadalajara , and  connected  therewith 
by  a tram-line,  is  the  favorite  summer  retreat  of  the  well-to-do 
citizens,  many  of  whom  possess  residences  there.  Tranvias 
leave  the  Plaza  Mayor  at  intervals  of  about  every  20  min. 
during  the  day;  time  \ hr.,  fare  12  c.  The  cars  pass  out  of  the 
city  through  the  huge  gateway  of  the  ex-garita  of  San  Pedro 
— a relic  of  the  time  not  long  past  when  all  Mex.  cities  had 
suburban  custom-houses  and  the  products  of  the  country, 
and  of  other  states,  were  taxed  before  they  could  enter.  The 
alcabales  of  the  State  of  Jalisco  were  abolished  by  the  enlight- 
ened Governor  Corona. 

Some  very  friable  pottery  in  quaint  designs  is  made  (comp, 
p.  lxxiv)  at  San  Pedro.  Its  exceeding  frailty  makes  great  care 


180  Rte.  35.  SAN  PEDRO  TLAQUEPAQUE 


necessary  in  packing  it  for  transportation.  A native  sculptor, 
one  Pan  Duro , is  very  adept  in  catching  facial  expressions, 
and  one  can  have  a fairly  good  likeness  of  one’s  self  made  to 
order  in  half  an  hour.  Prices  vary  and  bargaining  is  necessary. 

During  the  summer  season  San  Pedro  is  filled  with  happy 
people  on  their  vacation.  Through  the  open  doors  of  the  i 
houses  one  catches  glimpses  of  sunlit  patios,  tinkling  foun-  j 
tains,  trees  filled  with  ripening  pomegranates,  and  a wealth 
of  blooming  tropical  flowers.  Picnics,  burro-parties,  dances  j 
and  serenades  are  the  order  of  the  day,  and  the  stilted,  rigid  j 
etiquette  of  Guadalajara  is  left  behind.  In  the  soft  evening 
twilight  the  rich  marchante  and  the  dignified  hacendado  frater- 
nize, draw  their  chairs  out  to  the  curb,  and  there,  with  feet 
propped  against  the  curbstone  or  the  facade  of  the  houses, 
they  smoke  and  chat  with  their  ambulating  neighbors.  Car - 
mencita , Concepcion  and  Dolores  wralk  bareheaded  through  the  ] 
narrow,  quaint  streets,  an  arm  thrown  around  each  other’s  I 
waists,  and  chattering  volubly:  laughing  children  play  at  hide  | 
and  seek  among  the  shadows  of  the  great  elms,  cowled  friars  I 
slip  out  of  adjacent  cloisters  and  pace  to  and  fro  to  the  rhythm  j 
of  clicking  rosaries,  and  a home-talent  string  band  produces  I 
melodious  music  in  the  near-by  plaza.  The  tranquillity  of  the  ] 
place  is  noticeable  and  pleasing. 

The  Santuario  de  la  Virgen  de  la  Soledad  is  a time-  | 
stained  decrepit  church  a few  minutes’  walk  from  the  plaza.  1 
From  a side  street  we  enter  a small,  unkempt  garden  where  | 
oranges,  bananas,  tube-roses  and  a host  of  thorny  vines  and  1 
shrubs  grow  in  riotous  profusion.  A moss-grown  tile  pave-  I 
ment  of  unquestioned  antiquity  leads  inward  from  the  gate-  I 
way,  past  some  broken  urns  on  tottering  pedestals  and  by  a J 
large  fountain  filled  with  soapy-looking  water,  much  relished  1 
by  the  pelados  because  of  its  resemblance  to  pulque.  All  the  J 
sloe-eyed,  chattering  Rebeccas  of  the  neighborhood  ( vecindad)  I 
come  hither  for  water  and  they  carry  it  away  in  pottery  jars  I 
poised  on  their  heads  just  as  did  their  Biblical  prototypes  I 
centuries  ago.  In  the  ruinous  tower  above  the  facade  hang  a a 
pair  of  bronze  bells,  cracked,  weazened  and  querulous.  Above  1 
the  door  is  the  inscription:  Indulgencia  plenaria  perpetuau 
una  vez  al  dia  (perpetual  plenary  indulgence  once  a day).  The  1 
cramped  interior  is  cruciform,  with  altars  in  the  transepts  with  9 
copies  of  paintings  of  no  merit.  Near  the  altar  of  the  left  I 
transept,  in  a glass  case,  is  a figurine  of  the  Virgin,  with  ear-  B 
nngs,  a voluminous  flounced  petticoat,  a bodice  with  puffed  I 
sleeves  and  a tin  medal  pending  from  her  throat.  The  edges  1 
of  the  petticoat  are  much  soiled  by  the  lips  of  Indian  devo*  I 
tees.  Hard  by  is  a small  clay  image  of  Christ,  the  work  of  a )* 
local  potter. 

On  the  return  journey  to  Guadalajara  a fine  panorama  of  m 
the  valley,  the  city  with  its  many  church  spires,  and  the  dis-  {■ 


STATE  OF  JALISCO  35.  Route.  181 


tant  hills  can  be  obtained  from  the  front  seat  of  the  car.  The 
calzada  along  which  the  line  runs  is  a busy  highway  flanked 
by  fine  elms. 

The  State  of  Jalisco,  one  of  the  richest  mining  and  agri- 
cultural regions  of  the  Mex.  Repub. ; designated  politically  as 
an  Estado  del  Centro , with  an  area  of  82,503  sqr.  kiloms.,  and 
a population  of  1,153,891,  lies  on  the  great  Central  Plateau, 
6,000  feet  or  more  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  is  often 
referred  to  as  the  Mexican  Andalucia.  The  western  half  of 
the  state  slopes  away  toward  the  Pacific  Ocean  and  is  marked 
by  a coast-line  500  kilom.  in  length.  It  is  irregular  in  shape 
and  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  Durango , Zacatecas , Aguas - 
calientes  and  the  Territorio  de  Tepic;  on  the  E.  by  Guanajuato 
and  Michoacan ; on  the  S.  by  Michoacan  and  Colima , and  on 
the  W.  by  the  Pacific.  For  political  purposes  it  is  divided 
into  12  cantone $,  with  a town  or  city  of  the  same  name  at  the 
head  of  each.  The  capital,  Guadalajara , is  described  at  p.  161. 

According  to  Indian  tradition  the  entire  region  was  in- 
habited in  the  6th  century  by  the  populous  tribe  of  Nahoas. 
The  name  Jalisco  is  derived  from  the  Nahoa  xalli  = sand,  and 
ixco  = above.  The  aboriginal  name  for  the  region  was  Tonala, 

When  Cortes  had  conquered  Tenochtitldn  and  was  looking 
about  him  for  other  worlds  to  subdue,  he  learned  from  captive 
Indians  that  western  Mexico  was  unusually  rich  in  silver-mines, 
and  hither  he  turned  his  attention.  From  his  headquarters 
in  Coyoacan  he  despatched  an  expedition  under  the  captains 
Juan  Alvarez  Chico  and  Alonso  de  Avalos  with  instructions  to 
conquer  the  region.  This  then  (1523)  comprised  the  present 
States  of  Colima,  Jalisco , Zacatecas,  Sinaloa,  Aguascalientes , 
and  the  Territorio  de  Tepic  and  was  known  as  Chimalhuacan. 
It  was  sparsely  settled  by  Indians  belonging  to  a tribe  of 
the  same  name,  and  was  ruled  over  by  a woman  known  as 
Cihuapilla.  The  territory  was  so  extensive  that  its  subjuga- 
tion was  attended  with  many  difficulties.  That  region  nearest 
Mexico  City  — the  Province  of  Panuco  — was  soon  reduced 
and  the  commander  sent  his  trusted  lieutenant  Gonzalo  de 
Sandoval  to  rule  over  it.  In  1528  the  King  of  Spain  appointed 
Nufio  de  Guzman  governor  of  the  conquered  lands,  and  one 
of  the  first  acts  of  this  executive  was  to  push  exploration  west- 
ward. But  they  found  the  Indians  brave  and  warlike,  with 
the  fate  of  the  unhappy  Aztecs  fresh  in  mind.  For  several 
years  the  advantage  was  first  on  one  side  then  on  the  other, 
and  it  was  not  until  1545  that  Spanish  rule  was  firmly  estab- 
lished. The  conquerors  called  the  new  region  El  Reino  de 
Nuevo  Galicia.  (Compare  Guadalajara,  p.  161.) 

Jalisco  possesses  a variety  of  climates;  cold  in  the  mountains, 
temperate  on  the  great  table-land  and  hot  on  the  coast.  The 
valley-lands  are  beautiful  and  productive;  sugar-cane  being 
a staple.  The  E.  section  is  called  the  granary  of  Mexico,  from 


182  Rte.  35. 


STATE  OF  JALISCO 


Mines . 


its  enormous  production  of  cereals.  Many  picturesque  lakes 
and  some  fine  ravines  of  great  length  and  depth  are  features 
of  certain  regions.  Rising  from  the  plains  are  some  celebrated 
mountain  peaks,  notably  Colima  (described  at  p.  186),  Tapolpa, 
Tigre,  and  El  Nevado  (p.  187).  The  finest  barrancas  (gorges) 
are  Oblatos  (p.  178),  Atentique  and  Beltran , on  the  high-road 
between  Guadalajara  and  Colima  City. 

The  largest  river  is  the  Rio  Grande , known  also  as  the  Tolot- 
Idn,  the  Santiago  and  the  Lerma , which  rises  in  the  State  of 
Morelos,  crosses  Jalisco  from  S.-E.  to  N.-W.,  flows  right 
through  the  fine  Lake  of  Chapala  (p.  152),  forms  the  splendid 
Falls  of  Juanacatlan  (described  at  p.  159)  and  after  crossing 
the  Territorio  de  Tepic  empties  into  the  Pacific  near  the 
Puerto  de  San  Bias.  On  its  journey  of  624  miles  from  its 
source  it  traverses  several  of  the  great  barrancas  for  which 
Jalisco  is  noted.  Other  rivers  are  the  Piginto , Tux  pan, 
Ayuquila,  Sihuatlan , Tomatldn , Tuito  and  a number  of  minor 
streams  which  empty  into  the  Santiago.  Certain  of  these 
streams  are  known  by  other  names  in  the  states  wherein  they 
have  their  source. 

The  most  important  lake  of  the  state  (also  the  largest  in 
the  Repub.)  is  Chapala , 20  M.  S.-E.  of  Guadalajara  and  con- 
nected therewith  by  an  automobile  road  and  a railway  (Rte. 
33).  The  Lagos  de  Magdalena,  Cajijitlan,  Tiazpanito,  Union  de 
Tula , Quitupan  and  Zapotlan  are  beautiful  sheets  of  water, 
the  home  of  myriad  wild -fowl. 

Jalisco  is  celebrated  for  its  delicious  fruits,  some  of  which 
grow,  in  the  deep  barrancas  a thousand  feet  below  the  wheat- 
producing  plains.  In  the  lower  reaches  of  these  great  gulches 
coffee,  vanilla,  rice,  tobacco,  dates,  figs  and  many  tropical  pro- 
ducts thrive.  The  oranges  from  the  La  Barca  and  Atotonilco 
districts  are  prized  for  their  sweetness  and  many  carloads  are 
annually  exported  to  the  U.  S.  A.  A specialty  of  the  state 
is  Tequila  liquor  (p.  lxxxii),  produced  by  distillation  from  a 
species  of  the  Cactacese  — el  maguey  de  vino,  or  maguey  mescal.  \ 
This  plant  is  somewhat  smaller  than  the  pulque-producing 
maguey,  with  narrow,  bluish  leaves.  It  thrives  best  on  the 
slopes  of  a mountain  called  El  Cerro  de  Tequila,  in  the  district 
of  that  name.  From  this  region,  where  the  industry  has  reached 
its  highest  development,  millions  of  pesos  worth  of  the  product 
is  shipped  to  northwestern  Mexico.  Jalisco  is  highly  mineralized 
and  there  are  so  many  mines  that  a special  mining  directory 
( A Handbook  of  the  Mineral  Resources  of  the  State  of  Jalisco , 
by  T.  Elliot  Smith  — The  Jalisco  Times,  Guadalajara,  1905)  [ 
has  been  printed  about  them.  Gold,  silver,  copper,  iron,  lead, 
cinnabar,  etc.,  are  the  chief  products.  Certain  of  the  old 
mines  which  were  worked  (and  closed)  centuries  ago  by  their 
discoverers  are  opened  up  from  time  to  time  and  great  wealth 
taken  from  them.  (Comp.  Mines,  p.  lxxxviii.) 


GUADALAJARA  TO  MANZANILLO 


183 


36.  From  Guadalajara  via  Zapotlan,  Tuxpan  and 
Colima  to  Manzanillo. 

357  K.  Trains  arrive  and  depart  from  the  Estacion  de  los  Ferrocarriles 
Nacionales  de  Mexico  (Pl.  C,  5).  For  fares,  see  p.  xxxi. 

Guadalajara,  see  p.  161.  The  train  runs  through  the  E.  sub- 
urb, flanks  th eLago  del  AguaAzul  (p.  178),  and  at  once  begins 
its  climb  into  the  hills.  Fine  retrospective  views  of  Guadala- 
jara and  of  San  Pedro  Tlaquepaque  (p.  179)  poised  on  the 
crest  of  a hill  at  the  1.  As  we  traverse  the  ridges  we  get  sweep- 
ing views  of  wide,  deep  valleys  hemmed  in  by  blue-peaked 
hills.  A higher  mountain  range  cuts  the  southern  sky-line. 
Most  of  the  land  is  uncultivated,  and  shallow  lakelets  girt  by 
green  bands  of  flowering  lirio  acuatico,  and  with  many  wild- 
fowl on  their  waters,  nestle  in  the  lowlands.  8 K.  La  Junta. 

We  leave  the  main  line  (Guadalajara  to  Mex.  City)  and 
trend  toward  the  S.  From  29  K.  Tlajomulco  the  grade  slopes 
gently  downward.  49  K.  Mazatepec.  The  line  sweeps  broadly 
round  to  the  east  (1.)  and  enters  a region  flecked  with 
wide,  shallow  lakelets  — the  haunt  of  many  wild-fowl.  The 
Presa  of  Bella  Vista  is  visible  on  the  r.  Farther  on,  between 
69  K.  Santa  Ana,  and  81  K.  Santa  Catarina,  the  road  crosses 
a shallow  arm  of  the  Lago  de  Atotonilco,  with  the  Lago  de 
Zocoalco  visible  on  the  1.  91  K.  Zocoalco  (4,500  ft.). 

A few  miles  to  the  N.  of  the  rly.  line  are  the  (uninteresting)  Ruinas 
de  Camichin,  and  farther  on  are  several  fishing  villages  clinging  to  the 
southern  shore  of  the  Lago  de  Chapala,  described  at  p.  152. 

102  K.  Verdia.  The  long  Lago  de  Sayula  is  seen  on  the  1. 
and  the  railway  line  parallels  its  right  bank  to  136  K-.  Sayula. 
We  ascend  through  the  valley  over  a sharp  incline  and  soon 
reach  148  K.  San  Nicolas' (5, 17 3 ft.),  the  highest  point  on  the 
line,  in  a monotonous  region.  The  railway  skirts  the  shore 
of  the  Lago  de  Zapotlan. 

164  K.  Zapotlan  (5,000  ft.),  the  usual  starting-point  for 
the  ascent  of  the  Volcan  de  Colima  and  El  Nevado  (seep.  186). 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  Bolade  Oro  — Central  — Cosmovolita, 

Am.  PL 

The  present  town  contains  nothing  to  interest  the  traveller. 
The  old  town  was  almost  destroyed  (March  25,  1806)  by  an 
earthquake  which  preceded  a violent  outburst  from  the  vol- 
cano of  Colima.  Upward  of  a thousand  persons  were  killed 
by  the  falling  of  the  church  walls. 

About  4 K.  to  the  S.  the  rly.  crosses  the  divide  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  5,084  ft.  on  a two  per  cent  maximum  grade.  Farther 
on,  almost  at  the  base  of  the  foothills,  is 

192  K.  Tuxpan  (3,800  ft.),  once  a populous  Indian  town. 
The  name  is  derived  from  a Nahuatl  word  — Tuchtlan , or 
place  of  the  rabbits.  Many  of  the  present  inhabitants  are  de- 
scendants of  the  Aztecs  and  they  retain  not  a few  of  their 


184  Route  36. 


TUXPAN 


vicious  attributes.  Certain  travellers  have  observed  a pre- 
ponderance of  long-nosed  people  in  the  town,  and  this  un-  E 
due  nasal  development  is  attributed  to  the  habit  the  Indian  8 
mothers  have  of  pulling  their  babies’  noses,  for  two  or  three  I 
months  after  they  are  born,  to  prevent  them  from  being  pug-  9 
nosed.  The  region  roundabout  is  fertile  and  some  of  the  more  5 
industrious  Indians  possess  small  haciendas  stocked  with  cattle,  I 
sheep  and  goats. 

From  Tuxpan  the  railway  follows  the  course  of  the  Tuxpan  I 
River  to  the  near-by  mountains,  where  the  fine  scenery  begins.  I 
The  splendid  snow-capped  Volcan  de  Colima  and  El  Nevada  I 
(p.  186)  are  visible  on  the  r.  The  rich  Tuxpan  valley  stretches  1 
away  toward  the  N.-E.  Broad  fields  of  growing  sugar-cane  I 
are  features  of  the  lowlands.  The  railway  continues  to  ascend  I 
and  affords  many  fine  retrospects.  The  construction  of  the  I 
line  from  this  point  to  the  Pacific  Slope  is  full  of  interest,  and  I 
at  certain  places  the  scenery  is  superb.  The  engineering  dif-  I 
faculties  which  had  to  be  overcome  in  the  construction  of  the  I 
rly.  were  many  and  complex.  Between  Tuxpan  and  Man - I 
zanillo , a distance  of  165  kilometers,  there  are  16  tunnels,  I 
and  the  road  cost  thirteen  millions  of  pesos  to  build. 

We  enter  the  first  tunnel,  which  is  497  ft.  long.  Just  beyond  I 
it  is  a bridge  262  ft.  long  and  51  ft.  above  the  river  {Tuxpan).  I 
199  K.  Quito. 

From  this  point  onward,  the  line  crosses  many  deep  barran - I 
cos,  or  gorges,  and  is  marked  by  tunnel  after  tunnel.  The  grade  I 
slopes  sharply  downward  and  the  railway  winds  in  and  out  I 
between  tall  peaks  with  many  arroyos  and  gorges  radiating  I 
downward  from  their  almost  vertical  sides.  We  pass  the  I 
deep  barranca  of  Atentique,  thread  a tunnel  196  ft.  long,  then  1 
cross  a bridge  1,412  ft.  long.  The  expensive  nature  of  the  rly.  I 
work  can  be  better  understood  when  it  is  known  that  the  two  I 
kilometros  of  track  here  cost  $584,829.17. 

Beyond  207  K.  Platinar,  in  a wild  and  rocky  landscape,  we  I 
cross  the  Bejuco  barranca  (172  ft.  deep)  over  a deck  bridge  I 
188  ft.  long  and  weighing  1S2,000  lbs.  We  cross  the  Colomos  1 
barranca  (146  ft.  deep)  over  a deck  bridge  141  ft.  long.  Tunnel,  g 

Just  before  reaching  218  K.  Villegas  (2,489  ft.)  the  line  again 
crosses  the  Tuxpan  River  over  a lofty  bridge  471  ft.  long,  9 
which  spans  the  river  197  ft.  above  its  bed.  The  bridge  is  one  ji 
of  the  finest  on  the  line,  weighs  two  million  pounds  and  re-  t 
quired  102  days  to  put  in  place.  The  nearly  vertical  sides  of 
the  barranca  are  of  conglomerate  rock.  During  the  rainy  season  9 
a turbulent  river  plunges  through  the  gorge  with  such  force  ji 
as  to  move  rocks  weighing  a hundred  tons.  Some  of  the  hill-  || 
sides  hereabout  are  covered  with  banana  groves,  and  the  huts  % 
( chozas ) of  the  natives  are  enclosed  by  hedges  of  aloe.  Hard 
by  Villegas  are  several  fine  sugar  haciendas , notable  among  * 
them  the  San  Marcos. 


Cathedral. 


COLIMA 


86.  Route.  185 


The  line  curves  round  to  the  N.  as  it  approaches  Colima 
(see  below).  As  we  descend  from  the  great  central  plateau, 
the  scenery  becomes  more  tropical.  The  train  passes  through 
two  tunnels  (the  first  of  which,  with  its  one  kilom.  of  track, 
cost  $364,760);  then  crosses  the  Cachipehuela  bridge  111  ft. 
above  the  bottom  of  the  canon.  The  last  of  the  three  tunnels 
which  lie  just  beyond  cost  $229,500. 

226  K.  Tonilita  (2,160  ft.).  The  town  (pop.  6,387)  lies  some 
20  kilom.  toward  the  N.-W.  on  the  slope  of  the  Volcan  de 
Colima.  Sugar  is  the  chief  product  of  the  fine  haciendas  which 
dot  the  region.  Our  line  crosses  the  fine  Quesaria  bridge,  204 
ft.  above  the  bottom  of  the  barranca , and  the  train  passes 
from  Jalisco  into  the  Stale  of  Colima.  The  Los  Yugos  bridge 
is  crossed  191  ft.  above  the  gorge.  At  K.  231  the  train  crosses 
the  Santa  Rosa  bridge,  the  finest  on  the  line ; the  bridge  itself 
is  398  ft.  long,  the  longest  span  is  154  ft.,  and  it  rests  279  ft. 
above  the  bottom  of  the  barranca.  Tunnel.  The  train  leaves 
the  Tuxpan  country,  climbs  a slight  grade  to  an  eminence  over- 
looking the  Colima  Valley , crosses  the  Salado  River  and  threads 
two  tunnels.  Carpintero  bridge,  391  ft.  long  and  170  ft 
high.  Tunnel. 

238  K.  Alzada  (2,202  ft.),  on  the  W.  slope  of  the  range.  The 
view  toward  the  S.  and  the  S.-W.,  over  a rolling  country  that 
falls  away  gradually  toward  the  coast,  is  beguiling.  The 
ocenery  reminds  us  that  we  have  left  the  great  central  plateau 
and  have  entered  the  semi-tropics.  Broad  sugar-plantations 
stretch  away  before  the  delighted  eye,  and  blooming  huertas 
attest  the  prevalence  of  soft,  southern  breezes  and  of  tropical 
luxuriance.  The  Huerta  bridge,  285  ft.  long  and  63  ft.  high, 
is  crossed.  247  K.  Salvador  (1,993  ft.).  Corn  and  rice  form  the 
staple  agricultural  products  of  the  vicinity.  The  line  crosses 
the  San  Joaquin  bridge,  455  ft.  long  and  106  ft.  high;  the 
Cahas  bridge,  107  ft.  high,  and  the  Estancia  bridge,  49  ft.  high. 
255  K.  Estancia  (1,663  ft.). 

260  K.  Colima  (1,538  ft.).  Capital  of  the  State  of  Colima, 
with  a pop.  of  20,000,  in  a beautiful  and  fertile  valley  watered 
by  the  Rio  Colima.  The  town  is  the  commercial  centre  of  the 
state,  with  tram-cars,  a cathedral,  two  electric  light  plants 
(one  of  which  is  supplied  with  power  from  a waterfall  20  kilom. 
distant)  and  a theatre  ( Santa  Cruz)  with  a seating  capacity  of 
1,500. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  Hotels  California,  Europa  and  Colima  all  near 
the  plaza  : $2.50  to  $3  Am.  PI.  Couriers  meet  all  trains.  Tram-car 
from  the  station,  5 c. 

The  Cathedral,  a picturesque  structure  with  double  towers  and  a fine 
dome  surmounted  by  a lantern  and  pierced  by  wheel  windows,  adjoins 
the  Palacio  de  Cobierno  — a two-storied  edifice  with  a clock-tower 
facing  the  Plaza  de  Armas.  On  one  side  of  this  plaza  (music  on  certain 
evenings)  are  some  very  picturesque  old  portales. 

The  tram-cars  of  the  Ferrocarril  Urbano  de  Colima  run  to  the  suburban 
village  of  Alvarez , noted  for  its  beautiful  palms  and  attractive  houses. 


186  Route  36.  EL  VOLCAN  DE  COLIMA 


The  tropical  aspect  of  Colima,  and  the  contrast  between  the 
luxuriant,  palm-decked  valley  and  the  cold  snows  of  the  twin 
volcanoes  in  the  distance,  is  very  striking.  The  town  dates 
from  about  1523  (see  p.  190)  and  was  the  third  town  of  im- 
portance established  in  New  Spain.  It  stands  on  a gentle 
slope  watered  by  the  Colima  and  Manrique  rivers  and  is  note- 
worthy for  its  beautiful  gardens  and  fine  palms.  Corpulent 
orange  trees  flank  the  chief  calzadas.  The  volcano  as  seen  from 
the  plaza  is  magnificent,  and  when  it  is  in  a state  of  eruption 
— which  not  infrequently  happens  — the  view  is  awe-inspir- 
ing; particularly  at  night  when  the  fires  glow  in  the  midst  of 
the  darkness. 

El  Volcan  de  Colima,  called  also  El  Yolcan  deFuego  (fire), 
12,278  ft.  high,  is  one  of  the  most  conspicuous  features  of  the 
State  of  Jalisco  and  is,  because  of  the  isolation  of  the  cone 
and  its  fine  contour,  one  of  the  most  attractive  volcanoes 
in  Mexico.  It  is  considered  an  almost  perfect  type;  a great 
cone  whose  cusp  is  frequently  obscured  by  the  dense  masses 
of  smoke  and  steam  which  sometimes  roll  outward  from  the 
active  crater.  This  crater  is  almost  circular;  its  greatest 
diameter  is  about  1,600  ft.  and  its  lesser  about  1,500.  On  the 
E.  side  is  a perpendicular  crater  wall  about  100  ft.  above  the 
lava  bed.  The  overflow  of  the  W.  side  has  completely  buried 
that  portion  of  the  wall  and  the  lava  rises  fully  a hundred 
feet  above  the  rim  rock  in  the  crater.  Sulphur  smoke  con- 
stantly escapes  over  this  entire  mass  of  hot  lava  and  reaches 
1,000  ft.  or  more  down  the  mountain-side,  making  the  ascent 
from  the  W.  side  impossible.  This  new  crater  was  opened 
in  1869,  and  a comparatively  fresh  seared  fine  shows  where 
the  molten  lava  destroyed  the  vegetation  — which  in  this 
sub-tropical  region  reaches  almost  to  the  mountain-top. 

Time  was  when  Colima  was  very  active.  History  mentions 
violent  eruptions  in  1575,  1611,  1806,  1808  and  1818.  On 
June  12,  1869,  the  volcano  entered  on  a period  of  almost  con- 
tinuous activity,  and  with  the  exception  of  a few  brief  periods 
of  quiescence  it  has  been  in  a disturbed  state  ever  since. 
Actual  molten  lava  does  not  always  flow  from  the  crater, 
in  whose  centre  there  is  a small  mountain  of  almost  red-hot 
lava  from  which  clouds  of  steam  and  sulphurous  gases  escape. 
Watery  gases,  masses  of  basaltic  trachyte,  ashes  and  scoria 
form  the  base  of  the  eruptive  matter.  Sharply  defined  clouds 
of  white  steam  often  ascend  from  the  crater,  to  be  followed 
by  dense  masses  of  smoke  which  rise  in  huge  puffs  and  then 
spread  out  like  a gigantic  tree  or  table  above  the  cone.  A 
beautiful  fire  glow  is  sometimes  seen  at  night,  and  ominous 
rumblings  frequently  alarm  the  people  who  dwell  on  the  Mt. 
slopes.  Colima  ranks  as  one  of  the  most  troublesome  and 
angry  of  the  Mexican  volcanoes.  The  eruption  of  1806  pro- 
duced a strong  earthquake  which  destroyed,  among  other 


EL  VOLCAN  DE  COLIMA  36.  Route.  187 


things,  the  parish  church  at  Zapotldn  (p.  183).  That  of  1818 
sent  ashes  as  far  as  Guadalajara,  Zacatecas  and  San  Luis 
Potosi. 

Hard  by  the  volcan  is  the  splendid  Mt.  known  as  El  Nevado 
— the  snowy  one,  14,370  ft.  high.  From  its  summit  one  may 
enjoy  a magnificent  panorama  which  includes  the  City  of 
Colima,  Lake  Chapala,  the  grand  Cordilleras  which  sentinel 
the  ocean  littoral,  the  winding  Rio  de  Santiago  and  thousands 
of  square  miles  of  tropical  and  sub-tropical  territory.  By  a 
stretch  of  the  imagination  one  may  convince  one’s  self  that 
the  blue  line  visible  on  the  W.  horizon  is  Balboa’s  ocean. 

The  starting-point  for  the  ascent  of  El  Nevado  and  Colima  is  from 
Zapotldn , referred  to  at  p.  183.  Horses,  guides  and  camp-equipment  are 
usually  supplied  by  the  hotel  management.  Horses  about  $3  a day  each; 
the  stableman  furnishes  a mozo  to  look  after  them,  but  the  traveller  is 
expected  to  pay  his  wages  at  the  rate  of  about  $1  a day.  Provender  for 
the  men  must  be  included  in  the  camping-outfit.  The  splendid  grass  on 
the  Mt.  slopes  furnishes  food  for  the  animals.  Mountain  guides  such  as 
those  of  Switzerland  do  not  exist  in  Mexico,  but  one  may,  by  chance, 
secure  the  services  of  a man  who  has  been  at  the  top  of  the  crater.  Prior 
to  the  ascent  made  by  14  delegates  to  the  Tenth  International  Geological 
Congress  ‘held  at  Mexico  City  in  August,  1906),  headed  by  Professor 
Rudolph  Ruedemann  of  the  New. York  State  Geological  Survey,  the  na- 
tives declared  Colima  (because  of  deadly  gases)  to  be  unsurmountable. 
The  summit  was  reached  by  an  American  journalist,  Arthur  Ruhl,  in  1912, 
and  later  by  others. 

It  is  well  to  remember  that  a deep,  wide,  and  difficult  valley  separates 
Colima  from  El  Nevado.  Also  that  repeated  eruptions  alter  trails  and 
contour-lines. 

Parties  usually  start  from  Zapotldn  early  in  the  morning,  ride  all  day  in 
a leisurely  fashion  and  reach  the  base  of  the  Mt.  in  the  evening.  The  trail 
from  Zapotldn  is  through  a beautifully  wooded  country  with  but  little 
underbrush  and,  in  certain  seasons,  flecked  with  splendid  wild-flowers. 
Near  the  usual  camp  at  the  base  of  the  hills  there  is  a stretcn  of  country 
covered  with  a fine  grass  which  resembles  Argentine  Pampas  grass.  The 
pack-norses  relish  it.  By  starting  early  in  the  a.  m.  the  summit  should 
be  reached  about  noon.  To  avoid  the  noxious  vapors  which  emanate 
from  the  crater  it  must  be  approached  from  the  windward  side.  Even 
then  the  position  is  one  of  constant  danger,  as  even  a momentarv  shift 
of  the  wind  would  suffocate  one  with  the  sulphur  fumes.  Numerous  ice- 
camps  are  passed.  Here  the  peones  gather  the  hail  globules  which  roll 
down  from  the  cone  into  the  gulleys,  tamp  them  into  a hard  mass  in  a 
hole  >n  the  ground,  wrap  the  cakes  with  straw,  and  transport  them  on 
burro-back  to  the  towns  on  the  plains.  Zapotldn  receives  some  of  its  ice 
from  here,  and  time  was  when  Colima  and  other  towns  were  supplied  in 
this  manner.  Certain  stretches  of  the  timberland  near  these  aerial  camps 
resemble  the  Yellowstone  country.  The  trees  are  veritable  forest  giants 
and  the  almost  total  absence  of  underbrush  gives  the  woods  the  appear- 
ance of  fine  cultivated  parks.  Near  the  summit  the  ascent  is  a bit  weari- 
some, as  it  is  made  through  ashes,  false  rock  and  scoria. 

A party  of  men  can  make  the  trip  from  Zapotldn  and  return  in  three 
days,  by  speeding  a bit.  Four  days  should  be  allowed  wdien  there  are 
ladies  in  the  party.  The  expense  of  the  trip  should  not  average  over  $5  a 
day,  for  each,  which  should  include  horses,  guides,  food,  etc.  Unshod 
horses  are  preferable  to  those  shod  with  iron  shoes,  as  the  former  do  not 
slip  on  the  pine  needles  nor  in  the  ashes.  Small  game  abounds  in  the 
region  and  persons  fond  of  hunting  will  not  regret  taking  guns  and  am- 
munition along.  Before  starting,  it  should  be  understood  with  the  stable- 
man that  the  horses  are  in  charge  of  his  own  mozo , so  that  if  pack-animals 
fall  into  any  of  the  numerous  barrancas  and  are  killed,  there  can  be  no 
shifting  of  responsibility. 


188  Route  36. 


MANZANILLO 


The  railway  line  trends  toward  the  N.-W.  from  Colima, 
and  crosses  the  Colima  River , a tributary  of  the  Armeria. 
273  K.  Coquimatlan  (1,009  ft.)  in  a well-cultivated  region. 
The  slope  is  steadily  downward.  The  train  again  crosses 
the  Colima  River , which  here  is  joined  to  the  Armeria.  The 
latter  stream  (which  flows  in  from  Jalisco,  where  it  is  known 
as  the  Tuscacuesco ) is  attractive  to  the  view,  but  it  bears  an 
evil  reputation  for  its  overflows.  In  the  rainy  season,  at 
flood-time,  it  covers  the  valley  for  miles  around,  and  when 
it  recedes  the  country  looks  as  if  it  had  been  visited  by  a tidal 
wave.  282  K.  Jala  (767  ft.),  a nondescript  station  from 
which  considerable  charcoal  is  shipped  to  Colima.  Tunnel. 
289  K.  La  Madrid  (552  ft.)  on  an  hacienda  of  the  same  name. 
Considerable  sugar-cane,  corn,  rice  and  a number  of  fine  fruits 
grow  hereabout.  Beyond  the  last  tunnel  on  the  line  we  come 
to  306  K.  Tecoman  (166  ft.),  on  a broad  plateau  which  af- 
fords some  entrancing  views  of  the  tropical  landscape.  The 
line  crosses  the  Armeria  bridge  to  313  K.  Armeria ; then  a 
twin  arm  of  the  sea  separating  the  Laguna  de  Cuyutlan  from 
the  Pacific  Ocean.  324  K.  Cuyutlan  on  the  laguna  of  the 
same  name.  The  town  is  a popular  bathing-resort  (May  and 
June)  for  many  Colima  people.  Considerable  salt  is  evapo- 
rated here  by  a primitive  process.  The  railway  follows  along 
a narrow  neck  of  land  with  the  laguna  on  the  r.  and  the 
ocean  on  the  1.  353  K.  Campos.  357  K.  Manzanillo  {Hotel 
Manzanillo , and  Gran  Pacifico,  S2.50  to  S3),  see  below. 

357  K.  Manzanillo  (manchineel  — malum  mahianum),  one  of 
the  most  important  of  Mexico’s  Pacific  Coast  ports,  stands  at 
the  end  of  a long,  narrow  ridge  which  separates  the  ocean  from 
the  Laguna  de  Cuyutlan  (15  K.  long  by  11  wide)  — sometimes 
called  Laguna  de  los  Caimanes , from  the  number  of  alligators 
which  infest  it.  The  harbor  is  well  sheltered  and  is  regularly 
visited  bv  ships  of  the  Mexican  States  Line  (Sr.  Jose  S.  Razura, 
agent) ; The  Pacific  Mail  S.  S.  Co.  ( Adolfo  Stoll  & Co .,  Agts.) 
and  The  Mexican  Navigation  Co.  ( Alfredo  Ruiseco,  Agt.). 

Manzanillo  is  the  Pacific  outlet  for  Guadalajara  and  all  that 
vast  and  rich  estate  comprised  in  the  State  of  Jalisco  and  con- 
tiguous regions,  and  the  completion  of  the  railway  line  to  the 
Port,  the  extensive  port  works  and  other  improvements  are 
items  in  the  vast  plan  of  the  Government  and  the  Sud  Pacifico 
de  Mexico  to  develop  the  West  Coast  and  the  almost  limitless 
resources  which  hitherto  have  been  practically  dormant.  The 
steamship  lines  mentioned  hereinbefore  now  have  placed  the 
teeming  population  of  Central  and  Central-Western  Mexico  in 
touch  with  California,  Canada,  the  Far  East,  the  Panama 
Canal  Zone  and  Central  and  South  America. 

The  breakwater  ( rompeolas ) is  unusually  massive  and 
1,500,000  tons  of  blue  granite  from  the  Colima  quarries  were 
used  in  its  construction.  On  the  seaward  side  it  is  protected 


Salt. 


COLIMA  STATE 


36.  Route.  1 §9 


by  huge  granite  blocks  weighing  30  tons  each,  while  on  the 
inner  side  the  blocks  weigh  from  3 to  15  tons  each.  The 
structure  extends  for  600  ft.  into  water  60  ft.  deep ; it  is  over 
300  ft.  wide  at  the  bottom,  with  a cement  crown  25  ft.  wide 
and  16  ft.  thick.  Four  years  were  required  to  finish  it.  The 
harbor  thus  created  covers  about  160  acres,  and  when  the 
port  works  are  completed  it  will  afford  a safe  and  ample 
anchorage  for  100  or  more  vessels.  The  Mexican  Government 
proposes  to  spend  several  millions  of  pesos  to  bring  this  port  — 
which  is  about  midway  between  Mazatlan  and  Satina  Cruz  — 
up  to  the  standard  of  the  other  great  ports  of  the  Republic. 

Manzanillo  is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 
Hernan  Cortes  first  visited  the  spot  in  1525  and  he  caused  to 
be  constructed  here  a number  of  ships  with  which  to  explore 
the  Pacific  Ocean.  Later  (1565)  some  of  the  ships  of  the  Ar- 
mada of  Admiral  Miguel  Lopez  Legaspi , destined  for  the  con- 
quest of  the  Philippine  Islands,  were  built  at  Salagua  Port. 

Colima  State,  one  of  the  smallest  and  least  populous  (65,120 
inhab.)  of  the  Mexican  States,  has  an  area  of  5,587  sqr.  kilom. 
and  lies  in  a beautiful,  semi-tropic  region  between  the  Pacific 
Ocean  (which  bounds  it  on  the  S.)  and  the  two  splendid  moun- 
tains known  as  El  Volcan  (p.  186)  and  El  Nevado  de  Colima 
(p.  187).  The  coast-line  is  160  kilom.  long.  It  is  a favored 
strip  of  land,  unusually  rich  and  well  watered.  Michoacan 
bounds  it  on  the  E.  and  Jalisco  lies  to  the  N.,  N.-E.  and  W. 
Agriculture  is  the  chief  industry,  and  the  population  is  largely 
made  up  of  hacendados  and  rancher  os.  Among  the  varied  pro- 
ducts are  coffee  (noted  for  its  excellence),  sugar,  rice,  maize, 
cotton,  indigo,  tobacco,  cocoanuts,  cacao-beans  and  an  almost 
endless  variety  of  fine  fruits.  Chief  among  these  is  the  orange, 
mamay,  chico-zapote,  tamarind , papaya  (see  p.  548),  pine-apple, 
chirimoya,  banana,  plum,  pomegranate,  aguacate,  quince, 
guava,  and  the  zapote.  The  Flora  and  Fauna  are  unusually 
extensive.  The  latter  comprises  over  50  species  of  mam- 
mals, 100  birds,  32  reptiles,  7 batrachians,  50  fishes,  12  spe- 
cies of  mollusks,  besides  corals,  sponges  and  almost  number- 
less insects.  The  flora  embraces  170  species  of  trees,  60 
fruits,  25  textiles,  20  tanning-plants,  12  oleaginous  seeds,  20 
dye-plants,  20  forage,  9 poisonous,  40  aromatic  and  103 
medicinal  plants,  22  gums  and  resins  and  many  ornamental 
shrubs  and  flowers.  It  is  quite  possible  that  many  of  the  trees, 
etc.,  are  still  uncatalogued.  The  region  only  lacks  colonists  to 
convert  it  into  one  of  the  finest  and  richest  conceivable. 

The  Manufacture  of  Salt  is  a growing  industry,  and 
the  mineral  wealth  of  the  state  consists  principally  of  the 
salt  deposits  which  extend  along  the  coast.  The  most  pro- 
minent Salt-Pits  ( salinas ) are  those  of  Cualata,  Cuyutlan , 
Pascuales,  San  Pantaleon , Guazango,  Guayabal , Vega  Car- 


190  Route  86. 


COLIMA  STATE 


Climate. 


rizal,  Tecuan  and  Caiman.  Their  product  is  known  through- 
out the  Republic  as  Sal  de  Colima  (C.  salt).  Over  5,000  work- 
men are  employed,  and  the  annual  output  represents  about 
one  half  million  pesos.  The  methods  of  extraction  are  very 
primitive. 

The  Climate  is  cool  and  healthy  in  the  N.  (from  Suchitlan 
de  las  Flores  to  the  volcanoes) ; temperate  and  likewise  salu- 
brious in  the  central  region  (from  C uauhtemotzin  to  Comala ) ; 
hot  and  not  so  healthful  from  Colima  City  to  Tecolapan;  and 
torrid  and  unwholesome  on  the  coast.  Malaria  is  not  unknown. 

Historical  Sketch.  Colima,  from  the  Indian  Colliman  — 
colli,  arm,  and  man , hand,  signifies  tierra  conquistada  (con- 
quered land).  The  symbol  of  the  primitive  tribes  was  a 
hieroglyph  representing  a hand  and  an  arm,  interpreted  by 
them  to  mean  a dominion  exercised  by  force. 

The  old  kingdom  of  Colliman  was  founded  by  the  Aztecs 
during  their  long  and  wearisome  peregrination  in  search  of  the 
traditional  spot  on  which  to  found  their  empire  (comp.  p.  clxiv). 
When  the  Spaniards  reached  Mexico  the  territory  (much 
larger  than  now)  was  under  the  suzerainty  of  Montezuma , 
to  whom  a tribute  of  blankets,  cacao-beans  and  mother-of- 
pearl  was  paid  every  SO  days.  The  capital  of  the  kingdom, 
which  was  very  populous,  was  Cajitlan.  In  1522  Cortes  made 
preparations  for  its  subjugation  to  Spain.  An  expedition  was 
sent  from  Tenochtitlan,  and  its  captain,  Juan  Alvarez  Chico, 
was  killed  in  the  first  sanguinary  encounter  with  the  Indians. 
When  Cristobal  de  Olid  returned  to  Tenochtitlan  from  his 
successful  campaign  against  the  Tarascans  of  Michoacan 
(p.  217),  he  was  placed  at  the  head  of  a second  expedition 
which  was  in  turn  routed  by  the  valiant  Collimenses.  A third 
expedition,  headed  by  Gonzalo  de  Sandoval  and  aided  by  a 
horde  of  the  subjugated  Tarascans,  made  a desperate  assault 
on  the  Colliman  stronghold  and  were  repulsed.  Sandoval 
then  laid  siege  to  the  district,  and,  aided  by  reenforcements 
from  Mexico  City,  succeeded  in  breaking  the  power  of  the 
native  chiefs. 

The  ancient  capital  of  Cajitlan  was  very  unhealthy  and 
Sandoval  moved  it  to  the  site  of  the  present  city  of  Colima , 
which  was  founded  in  1523  under  the  name  of  San  Sebastian. 
In  1554  Felipe  II  gave  it  the  title  of  Villa  de  Santiago  de  los 
Caballeros  (Saint  James  of  the  Gentlemen).  After  the  war 
for  Independence  the  Colima  district  was  made  (1823)  into  a 
territory.  Later  it  formed  a part  of  the  State  of  Michoacan. 
In  1876  it  was  again  given  the  title  of  Territorio.  On  Feb.  5, 
1857,  it  was  declared  a free  and  sovereign  state  of  the  Mexican 
Federation. 


MEXICO  CITY  TO  URUAPAN  87.  Rte  191 


37.  From  Mexico  City  via  Toluca,  Maravatio, 
Acambaro,  Morelia  and  Patzcuaro  to  Uruapan. 

515  K.  Trains  leave  from  the  Estacidn  de  Colonia  (PI.  D,  4).  For  fares, 
see  p.  xxxi.  Time  can  perhaps  be  economized  on  this  trip  by  consulting 
the  Guia  Oficial  and  Route  29,  p.  108.  Passengers  who  take  the  train 
at  Mexico  City  pass  the  most  characteristic  parts  of  the  mountain  scenery 
between  the  capital  and  Toluca  by  day.  The  best  views  are  to  the  left. 

Mexico  City,  see  p.  232.  Before  reaching  the  tawdry 
suburbs  we  parallel  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma.  5 K.  Em - 
palme  de  Tacuba.  The  train  runs  toward  the  S.-W.  past  the 
squat  houses  of  the  lower  class  and  out  through  small 
patches  of  the  omnipresent  maguey  (p.  Ixxxi). 

11  K.  Naucalpam.  Maguey  fields  stretch  away  from  the 
station  and  the  huge,  spiky  plants  produce  some  of  the  pulque 
(p.  lxxxii)  served  in  the  capital. 

San  Bartolo  Naucalpam  (Nauc&lpam  only,  on  the  rly.  time-card),  also 
called  Villa  Juarez  ; in  the  State  of  Mexico,  Distrito  de  Tlalnepantla , 
is  a picturesque  town  (pop.  8,000)  in  the  foothills  of  the  Sierra  de  las 
Cruces , surrounded  by  fine  haciendas,  many  of  which  are  dotted  with 
flour-mills.  Its  chief  attraction  is  the  widely  celebrated  Santuario  de 
Nuestra  Senora  de  los  Remedios  (Our  Lady  of  the  Remedies)  which  crowns 
a hill  ( El  Cerro  de  Tololtepec)  about  1*  M.  west  of  the  town. 

The  church,  a small  and  tawdry  affair,  occupies  the  site  of  an  old 
Aztec  temple  ( Teocalhueyacan ) which  stood  here  before  the  Conquest , 
and  which  was  occupied  as  a fortress  by  the  Spaniards  after  their  dis- 
astrous retreat  from  Tenochtitldn  on  the  celebrated  Noche  Triste  (p. 
clxxxiii).  Soon  after  the  downfall  of  the  Aztec  metropolis  the  temple  was 
demolished  to  make  way  for  the  present  structure.  The  fortress-like 
edifice  adjoining  the  church  was  erected  by  the  Ayuntamiento  of  Mexico 
City,  for  the  accommodation  of  the  clergy,  and  for  the  state  dignitaries, 
on  the  occasion  of  the  annual  festival  (in  Sept.)  in  honor  of  the  Virgen 
de  los  Remedios.  A large  cloister,  or  caravansary,  built  as  a shelter  for 
the  Indians  who  came  from  many  distant  places  to  pay  homage  to  the 
Virgin,  was  once  a feature  of  the  enclosure.  The  curious  old  aqueduct 
towers  date  from  1620,  when  Don  Alonso  Tello  de  Guzmdn  tried  to  bring  in 
water  from  a neighboring  barranca. 

m The  Virgen  de  los  Remedios , patroness  of  the  Spaniards  in  Mexico,  and 
rival  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  (p.  394)  who  is  the  patroness  of  the  Mexi- 
cans, is  an  ugly  wooden  doll,  about  12  inches  high,  holding  in  its  arms  an 
infant  Jesus;  both  evidently  carved  with  a dull  penknife.  Two  holes 
represent  the  eyes  and  another  the  mouth;  the  finished  article  is  absurdly 
inartistic  and  the  work  bespeaks  the  rude,  Indian  craftsman.  The  cred- 
ulous believe  that  it  was  brought  from  Alcantara  (Spain)  by  Captain 
R.  de  Villafuente  (one  of  the  Conquistador es  who  came  over  with  Cortes) 
and  that  it  was  placed  by  him  on  the  main  altar  of  the  first  chapel  erected 
(1520)  by  the  Spaniards  in  the  New  World.  Tradition  has  it  that  it  was 
removed  from  Tenochtitldn  a few  days  before  the  retreat  of  the  Spaniards 
on  the  Sad  Night,  and  taken  by  its  owner  and  placed  (for  safe  keeping) 
beneath  a giant  maguey  plant  near  the  Teocalhueyacan , on  the  spot 
where  the  present  church  stands.  Twenty  years  later  a Christianized 
Indian  cacique,  Juan  de  Aguila , found  it,  placed  it  on  the  altar  in  his  hut 
and  worshipped  it  as  the  Aztec  goddess  of  water.  ^ The  alleged  miraculous 
appearance  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  opened  the  eyes  of  the  clergy  to 
the  intrinsic  value  of  such  apparitions,  and  no  sooner  was  this  wooden 
image  found  than  it  began  to  do  supernatural  things.  It  fled  from  the 


192  Route  37. 


NAUCALPAM 


Virgen  de 

cacique’s  house  and  returned  to  the  hill ; the  cacique  recovered  it,  put  it  in 
a strong  box  in  his  hut  and  slept  on  the  lid,  but  it  vanished  a second 
time,  and  a second  time  was  found  beneath  the  maguey.  Aguila  then 
told  the  holy  fathers  at  San  Gabriel , in  Tacuba,  and  they  immediately 
perceived  that  a miracle  had  been  performed.  A hermitage  was  soon 
erected  on  the  hill-top  and  a Spanish  competitor  of  the  Mexican  Virgin 
was  heralded  to  the  religious  world.  The  doll  was  dressed  in  satins  and 
pearls,  a quantity  of  false  hair  was  fastened  on  her  head,  and  a rich  crown 
added.  A fine  gilded  altar  was  arranged,  enclosed  by  a silver  railing,  and 
a huge  silver  maguey  — emblematic  of  her  home  for  20  years  — was 
made  a feature  of  the  shrine.  Despite  the  fact  that  the  Mexicans  de- 
risively called  her  a gachupina  (a  vituperative  epithet  signifying  a 
Spanish  woman)  her  popularity  grew  apace.  Indians  came  from  all 
parts  of  the  country  to  worship  her,  and  her  shrine  was  made  the  object 
of  a fanatical  devotion.  One  devotee,  in  an  ecstasy  of  religious  zeal,  bit  off 
the  largest  pearl  in  her  diadem  and  made  off  with  it  before  he  could  be 
captured. 

A larger  church  was  soon  needed  and  it  was  erected  in  1574-75,  but  it 
was  found  too  small  to  hold  the  multitude  which  came  to  pay  homage  to 
the  Virgin;  a still  larger  one  was  therefore  started,  but  it  was  not  com- 
pleted till  1629.  Marvellous  powers  of  healing,  warding  off  epidemics 
and  of  rain-making  were  soon  credited  to  the  Virgin, and  she  was  officially 
declared  the  special  patroness  of  the  Spaniards  in  the  City  of  Mexico. 
When  a drought  or  epidemic  threatened  the  capital  the  figurine  was 
carried  in  great  state  at  the  head  of  an  impressive  procession  to  Mexico 
City,  where  it  was  solemnly  received  by  the  Viceroy,  the  City  Council, 
the  Archbishop  and  the  rest  of  the  clergy.  Sometimes  the  Viceroy 
headed  the  holy  procession  as  it  wound  into  the  city;  in  such  cases  a 
noble  of  the  highest  rank  drove  the  chariot  in  which  the  image  reposed. 
The  principal  convents  were  visited  in  succession,  and  as  the  Virgin  was 
carried  through  the  cloistered  precincts,  the  nuns  ranged  themselves  on 
their  knees  in  humble  adoration:  it  was  then  conducted  to  the  Cathedral 
where  high  mass  was  sung  and  other  ceremonies  performed.  When  rain 
was  desired  it  came  in  copious  showers  immediately  after  her  arrival. 
Her  special  protection  was  earnestly  solicited  when  the  royal  tribute 
was  sent  to  Spain,  to  ensure  its  safe  arrival.  Gifts  of  immense  value  were 
deposited  at  her  shrine  and  a treasurer  was  appointed  to  take  care  of  her 
jewels  and  her  rich  wardrobe.  (This  treasury  is  now  full  of  rubbish  and  is 
not  worth  looking  at.) 

When  a wealthy  woman  of  the  nobility  died,  her  largest  gem  was 
usually  bequeathed  to  Our  Lady  of  the  Remedies.  According  to  tradi- 
tion several  attempts  were  made  to  “restore  ” the  image,  but  in  each  case 
the  artist  sickened  and  died. 

At  the  outbreak  of  the  War  for  Independence  (1810)  the  Spaniards 
chose  the  image  as  their  protectress,  in  opposition  to  the  Virgin  of 
Guadalupe,  who  guided  the  Mex.  troops  to  victory.  In  Sept.,  1810,  the 
Spaniards  solemnly  elevated  the  Virgen  de  los  Remedios  to  the  position  of 
General  of  the  Royal  Army.  During:  the  war  very  uncomplimentary  in- 
sinuations. relative  to  the  virtue  of  the  two  Virgins,  were  interchanged 
by  the  opposing  forces.  When  the  Mexicans  defeated  the  Spaniards  at 
the  battle  of  Las  Cruces  (Oct.  30,  1810),  a Mexican  general  stripped  the 
Spanish  patroness  of  her  general's  uniform,  tore  her  sash,  reproached 
her  for  being  a gachupina , signed  her  passport,  and  ordered  her  deported 
to  Spain.  Upon  the  promise  of  the  Spaniards  that  she  would  not  be  per- 
mitted to  influence  politics,  she  was  permitted  to  remain. 

The  image  is  preserved  in  a glass  shrine,  opened  only  on  special  oc- 
casions. The  camarin  was  added  to  the  church  (renovated  in  1850)  in 
1692-95  at  the  expense  of  Don  Francisco  Fernando  Marmoles,  Supreme 
Judge  of  the  Order  of  the  Real  Audiencia.  Master  craftsmen  were  brought 
from  Puebla  to  do  the  stucco  work. 

Upon  the  adoption  of  the  celebrated  Reform  Laws,  the  massive  silver 
railing  which  once  enclosed  the  altar,  the  huge  silver  maguey,  and  the 
wealth  of  jewels  went  into  the  government  exchequer  to  later  aid  in  the 
establishment  of  the  present  admirable  system  of  secular  schools.  There 
still  remain  some  indifferent  pictures,  dating  from  1595  and  illustrating 


los  Remedies. 


NAUCALPAM 


87.  Route.  193 


scenes  in  the  life  of  the  Virgin.  The  picture  by  Francisco  de  los  Angeles, 
painted  in  1699,  represents  the  twelve  apostles.  The  Cacique  Juan  de 
Aguila  is  buried  under  the  main  altar.  Hard  by  is  the  chest  in  which  he 
sought  to  make  the  Virgin  a prisoner  and  from  which  she  repeatedly 
escaped;  and  the  small  gourd  in  which  he  offered  her  food  in  an  effort 
to  keep  her  contented  while  in  his  house. 

A small  slab  of  Puebla  onyx  inserted  in  the  floor  in  front  of  the  chancel 
bears  the  inscription : 

“ This  is  the  true  spot  where  the  Chief  Don  Juan  de  Aguila  Tobar  found 
the  most  holy  Virgin,  beneath  a maguey,  in  1540.  It  is  the  spot  where, 
in  the  times  of  her  appearance  to  him,  she  told  him  that  he  should  search 
for  her.”  This  slab  replaced  (1796)  a pillar  which  supported  a small 
maguey  and  a carved  image  of  the  Virgin. 

The  chief  festivals  are  held  Sept.  1,  and  (by  the  Indians)  on  the 
14th  Sunday  after  Pentecost.  During  the  Vice-regal  period  a brilliant 
fiesta  was  celebrated  on  the  day  of  the  Assumption  of  the  Virgin  Mary. 

The  ruined  aqueduct  visible  from  the  Cerro  and  church  was  erected 
(1620)  by  Alonzo  de  Guzman , for  the  purpose  of  supplying  the  church 
with  water.  It  was  renovated  in  1724. 

A good  walker  can  make  the  trip  back  to  the  capital  on  foot,  through 
the  towns  (follow  the  rly.  track)  of  Azcapotzalco  and  Tacuba. 

From  Naucalpam  the  railway  continues  across  the  flocr 
of  the  Valley  of  Mexico.  This  is  soon  left  behind  and  we  enter 
the  foothills  of  the  Toluca  Range.  15  K.  Rio  Hondo  (deep- 
river).  The  town  lies  \ M.  up  the  gulch  from  the  station. 
Mountain  streams  hereabout  render  many  culverts  necessary 
and  before  reaching  San  Bartolito}  8 K.  further  on,  we  cross 
one  stream  ten  times  or  more.  23  K.  San  Bartolito , a quaint 
hamlet  nestling  in  a warm  pocket  of  the  hills.  A shipping- 
point  for  some  excellent  gray  stone  taken  from  a quarry  far 
up  the  hillside  and  visible  (to  the  1.)  as  we  pass.  Between  this 
point  and  Dos  Rios  we  skirt  the  edge  of  a deep  barranca  and 
the  train  crawls  warily  along  daring  terraces  cut  from  the 
sides  of  the  hills.  The  mountains  are  bare  and  parched,  except 
where  the  streams  have  brought  shrubs  and  flowers  into  life. 
28  K.  Dos  Rios  (two  rivers).  31  K.  Nava  (a  plain  surrounded 
by  mts.).  We  enter  the  first  tunnel  on  the  line.  The  view  of 
the  town  of  Nava  is  very  fine  as  we  climb  upward.  Tunnel. 
The  eye  embraces  a splendid  view  of  distant  mountains  dotted 
with  small  cultivated  patches  sometimes  planted  in  geo- 
metrical forms.  Flocks  of  goats  browse  on  the  grass  which 
clothes  the  higher  reaches,  and  magueyales  are  features  of 
the  landscape.  Brawling  streams  rush  down  the  declivities; 
the  train  climbs  steadily  upward  and  we  soon  reach  the 
region  of  pines.  33  K.  Laurel.  37  K.  San  Martin.  40  K.  La 
Cima  (the  summit).  42  K.  Salazar , in  a sun-lit  valley  high 
in  the  mountains.  Many  Indian  women  offer  comestibles  for 
sale  to  the  train  passengers.  As  the  line  zigzags  through  th$ 
hills  it  passes  towering  mountains  and  deep  gorges,  and 
traverses  fine  groves  of  pine  woods.  Some  daring  engineering 
feats  were  necessary  to  build  the  road.  To  the  1.  we  descry 
the  automobile  road  connecting  Mexico  City  and  Toluca; 
and  later  we  cross  this  road  at  the  crest  of  the  hill.  45  K. 
Carretera  Toluca  (Toluca  highroad).  48  K.  Fresno  (cedar). 


194  Route  38. 


TOLUCA 


We  pass  beneath  a stone  aqueduct,  then  a steel  one  and  reach 
52  K.  Jajolpa,  a quaint  hacienda  with  an  old  Spanish  mill, 
in  the  centre  of  a little  valley  hemmed  in  by  the  mts.  From 
this  point  onward  we  encounter  one  of  the  finest  bits  of  scene- 
ry on  the  line.  To  the  1.,  in  a deep  valley  to  which  we  descend 
by  many  twists  and  turns,  is  the  town  of  57  K.  De  la  Torre. 
The  landscape  with  its  magnificent  views  recalls,  in  a minor 
way,  the  village  of  Maltrata  on  the  Mexican  Railway,  de- 
scribed at  p.  484.  The  descent  from  the  summit  of  the  hill  to 
the  station  is  very  abrupt.  The  valley  in  which  the  town 
stands  is  green  and  productive.  From  a height  of  a thousand 
feet  or  more  we  look  down  upon  the  roofs  of  the  native  houses, 
and  upon  the  narrow  streets  between.  60  K.  Doha  Rosa. 
63  K.  Lerma.  We  cross  a sedgy,  marshy  tract  intersected 
by  canals  along  which  Indian  boatmen  paddle  primitive 
dug-outs.  From  this  region  comes  much  of  the  fine  market 
produce  sold  in  Toluca.  The  Toluca  auto  road  flanks  the  line 
on  the  1.  and  along  this,  in  the  early  morning,  many  Indian 
men  and  women  trot  cityward  laden  with  fruit  and  vegetables. 
The  line  curves  to  the  S.,  then  toward  the  N.-E.  We  cross 
broad  plains  dotted  with  herds  of  cattle  and  flanked  by  corn- 
fields. We  pass  the  Panteon  General  (on  the  1.)  and  enter 
the  city.  73  K.  Toluca.  See  below. 

For  a continuation  of  our  journey  see  p.  199. 


38.  Toluca. 

Arrival.  The  Railway  Station  (PI.  E,  2)  is  on  the  outskirts  of  the 
town,  about  1 M.  from  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion , in  a suburb  known  as 
Barrio  del  Ferrocarril  Nacional.  Cabs  meet  all  trains;  fare  to  any  hotel 
50  c.;  double  after  10  v.  m.  Within  the  town  the  fares  are  the  same  as 
those  of  Mexico  City,  referred  to  at  p.  235.  Cargadores  (comp.  p.  lii)  will 
deliver  hand-bags  or  a medium-size  trunk  to  the  hotel  or  a residence  for 
25  c.  Several  express  companies  compete  for  this  business  : 25  c.  for  a 
trunk:  less  where  there  are  a number  of  pieces.  Tram-cars  ( Tranvias  de 
Toluca ) meet  all  trains,  and  on  their  way  to  their  terminus  near  the  plaza, 
they  pass  near  to  the  chief  hotels.  Fare  10  c.  Suburban  lines  connect 
Toluca  with  several  picturesque  villages  in  the  environs. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  Hotel  Leon  de  Oro  (Golden  Lion),  facing  the 
Avenida  de  la  I ndependencia  (PI.  B,  2),  near  the  plaza  ; S2  to  $3  Am.  Pl.t 
according  to  location  of  room.  Rooms  only,  SI ; meals,  60  c.  Automobile 
garage.  — Gran  Hotel  Sociedad,  on  the  Ave.  de  la  Libertad  (PI.  B,  3) ; SI  to 
$3  Am.  PI.  German  cooking  and  management.  Eng.  and  Sp.  spoken. — 
Hotel  Andueza,  in  the  Portal  de  la  Constitucion  (P1.B,3),  S2  to  $2.50  Am. 
PI.  — Hotel  runners  do  not  always  meet  trains.  No  omnibuses.  Ground 
floor  rooms  in  Toluca  are  apt  to  be  cold  and  unhealthy,  and  they  should 
be  avoided. 

Baths  (comp.  p.  lii).  There  are  Casas  de  Banos  in  the  Ave.  de  la  In- 
dependence, the  Calle  de  San  Juan  de  Dios,  and  in  the  Ave.de  la  Liber- 
tad.  Turco- Roman  bath,  75  c.;  steam  (hot  room),  50  c.;  tub,  30  c.;  shower, 
15  c. 

Banks.  Banco  del  Estado  de  Mexico.  — Banco  Nacional  de  Mexico. 

Toluca  de  Lerdo  (8,761  ft.),  900  ft.  higher  than  Mexico 
City,  with  26,000  inhabitants;  capital  of  the  State  of  Mexico; 


N 


CO 


CoU)*4. 


Climate . 


TOLUCA 


88.  Route  195 


an  important  commercial  centre  locally  celebrated  for  its 
attractive  environs,  lies  on  an  extensive  and  fertile  plain 
which  slopes  gently  toward  the  S.-E.  Mountains  hem  in  the 
valley  on  the  N.  and  W.,  and  broad  haciendas  stretch  away 
to  the  E.  and  S.  The  situation  of  the  city  is  very  picturesque, 
and  the  distant  views  of  the  mountain-tops  — often  covered 
with  snow  — are  fine-  The  place  is  well  drained  and  healthy, 
but  cold  in  winter.  The  altitude  is  trying  to  some  constitutions. 
The  Climate  is  marked  by  sharp  contrasts;  the  winter  is 
almost  as  raw  as  that  of  a New  England  city;  the  summer 
is  delightful,  with  warm  days  and  cool  nights.  Animals  and 
crawling  things  dislike  the  elevation  and  there  are  fewer  dogs, 
cats,  and  insects  than  elsewhere.  The  absence  of  heating  appli- 
ances renders  the  winter  nights  uncomfortable  to  the  traveller. 
The  town  is  singularly  free  from  endemic  diseases;  those  of 
the  respiratory  organs  being  the  most  common,  and  the  most 
to  be  dreaded. 

At  this  altitude  the  unacclimated  should  be  very  careful  in  the  matter 
of  taking  cold;  a simple  head  cold  is  not  to  be  feared,  but  a chest  cold 
may  quickly  develop  into  pneumonia  with  evil  results.  The  traveller  who 
finds  himself  attacked  by  a cold  on  the  lungs  should  at  once  seek  a lower 
elevation. 

Historical  Sketch.  The  land  on  which  Toluca  stands  was  included  in 
the  grant  made  by  Charles  V to  Hern  an  Cortes  when  he  was  elevated 
to  the  title  of  Marquis  of  the  Valley  of  Oaxaca,  with  a great  landed 
domain.  This  mountain  eyrie  possessed  a peculiar  charm  for  the  eagle- 
eyed  Conquistador , and  here  (1533),  a dozen  years  after  the  fall  of 
Tenochtitlan,  he  founded  a settlement.  Prior  to  the  Spanish  invasion  the 
region  was  peopled  by  the  Matlatzinca , a wandering  tribe  which  had  ar- 
rived (from  the  N.)  at  the  Valley  of  Mexico  during  the  reign  of  the 
Chichimec  monarch  Xolotl.  The  first  village  was  called  Tollocan  — 
where  there  are  Tules  (reeds  or  trees),  and  the  Spaniards  corrupted  this 
word  into  Toluca.  It  was  long  the  favorite  stronghold  of  the  cacique 
who  ruled  over  the  region.  By  a decree  dated  Nov.  14,  1861,  it  became 
known  as  Toluca  de  Lerdo.  in  honor  of  President  Sebastian  Lerdo  de 
Tejada , an  illustrious  Mex.  statesman. 


The  streets  of  Toluca  are  straight  and  clean,  and  several  of 
them  parallel  the  Xicualtenco  River  as  it  crosses  the  town. 
The  Avenida  Independencia,  a long,  busy  street,  connects  the 
centre  with  the  station  of  the  F.  Cs . Nacionales  at  the  E. 

The  Plaza  Principal  (PI.  B,  2),  called  also  El  Jar  din  del 
Zocalo  (comp.  p.  liii),  stands  at  the  head  of  the  several  pretty 
plazas  in  the  town ; minor  plazas  are  the  P.  del  Carmen  (PI.  B,  2) ; 
Jar  din  Morelos  (PI.  A,  2) ; J.  Zaragoza  (PI.  C,  3) ; J . de  los  H om- 
bres Ilustres  (with  a fine  monument  described  at  p.  197) ; El 
P argue  Cuauhtemoc  (PI.  A,  3),  and  the  Plaza  de  la  Republica 
(PI.  B,  2).  Facing  the  Jardin  de  tos  Mdrtires  (PI.  B,  2)  is  the 
Palacio  de  Gobierno,  erected  in  1872  (cost  $80,000)  on 
the  site  of  the  old  Casa  Consistorial  (Senate,  or  Guildhall), 
occupied  for  many  years  by  Martin  Cortes , a son  of  the  Great 
Conqueror.  In  the  Audience  Hall  (no  fees)  are  portraits  of 
the  early  governors  of  the  State  of  Mexico. 


196  Route  38. 


TOLUCA 


The  Palacio  de  Justicia  (PL  B,  3)  dates  from  1871  and  is 
a part  of  the  sometime  Convento  de  San  Juan  de  Dios. 

The  Palacio  Municipal  (PL  B,  2),  a somewhat  uninteresting 
edifice,  was  completed  in  1883  and  cost  $43,620.  Other  chief 
buildings  are  the  Institute  Cientifico-Literario  (PL  B,  4),  with 
500  alumnos ; La  Escuela  de  Aries  y Ojicios  (PL  B,  3) ; La  Escuela 
Riva  Palacio  and  El  Conservatorio  de  Musica  y Declamaeidn. 
The  small  Museo  del  Estado  (PL  B,  2)  contains  an  interest- 
ing collection  of  Indian  monoliths,  weapons  and  whatnot. 
Open  all  day,  free.  No  fees  necessary. 

The  Biblioteca  Publica  (with  12,000  volumes,  mostly  in 
Spanish)  is  housed  in  the  old  Gorostiza  Theatre  (PL  B,  2), 
and  contains  some  rare  old  Spanish  documents  replete  with 
interest  for  antiquarians.  Toluca  was  a Spanish  stronghold 
for  many  years  after  the  Conquest,  and  some  of  the  old  parch- 
ment records  left  by  the  early  mayors  ( corregidores ) wall  re- 
ward the  seeker  after  odd  historical  facts. 

The  Mercado  Riva  Palacio,  largest  of  the  city  markets, 
wTas  completed  in  1851  at  a cost  of  $25,844.  A fine  old  por- 
tico with  six  massive  pillars  adorns  the  south  entrance.  Na- 
tives from  the  surrounding  country  congregate  here  to  sell 
and  barter  their  articles  of  home  manufacture,  and  these, 
with  their  picturesque  costumes,  are  usually  attractive  to  the 
visitor.  Some  interesting  shops  flank  the  portales  adjoining 
the  market.  There  is  another  market  (a  newr  one)  a few7  squares 
to  the  N.-E.  (PL  B,  2.) 

The  Parochial  Church  (PL  B,  3)  knowm  also  as  the  Templo 
del  Tercer  Orden , is  the  oldest  ch.  in  Toluca  and  w~as  erected  soon 
after  the  Conquest,  on  a site  given  to  the  Franciscans  by  a 
Matlalzinca  cacique  whose  Spanish  name  wTas  Juan  Cortes. 
The  structure  was  replaced  in  15S5  by  a larger  one.  The  old 
facade  is  very  interesting.  The  present  entrance  is  through 
the  portales  that  face  the  Calle  Riva  Palacio , a few7  doors 
(to  the  1.)  from  the  Jardin  de  los  Mdrtires.  A new  ch.  is  in 
process  of  construction,  but  a portion  of  the  old  structure  will 
be  retained. 

The  Church  of  La  Santa  Vera  Cruz  (PL  B,  2)  flanks  the 
Ave.  Independencia  and  contains  but  little  to  interest  the 
traveller.  Directly  across  the  street  is  a narrow7  lane  ( Callejon 
del  Carmen ) which  leads  two  squares  N.  to  the  Plaza  de  la 
Republica  and  the  huge  Templo  de  El  Carmen  (PL  B,  2),  at  the 
foot  of  a wide  atrium  wfith  some  tall  trees.  The  campanario 
contains  some  deep-toned  bells,  and  the  fine  organ  (of  Euro- 
pean origin),  which  adorns  the  interior,  wras  installed  and 
blessed  with  solemn  ceremonies  July  15,  1906. 

In  the  Jardin  de  los  Mdrtires  (PL  B,  2)  is  a commanding 
statue  to  the  revolutionary  patriot  and  chief,  Miguel  Hidalgo 
y Costilla.  The  bronze  tablet  let  into  the  right  side  of  the  base 
represents  a scene  from  the  battle  of  the  Monte  de  las  Cruces 


TOLUCA 


38.  Route.  197 


(p.  ccii).  The  date  in  the  rear,  Sept.  16,  1810,  refers  to  the  out- 
break of  the  revolution.  The  tablet  on  the  1.  represents  the 
celebrated  storming  of  the  Alhondiga  de  Granaditas,  described 
at  p.  139.  The  heroic  peon  miner  from  the  Mellado  mine  is  seen 
in  the  attitude  of  setting  fire  to  the  castle  door.  The  inscrip- 
tion on  the  face  advises  that  the  monument  is  a tribute  to 
Hidalgo,  from  the  State  of  Mexico,  and  was  erected  in  1900. 
The  fine  bronze  statue  of  the  doughty  cum  is  inspiring.  In 
his  left  hand  he  holds  the  banner  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe , 
taken  from  the  Sanctuary  of  Atotonilco.  (See  p.  cci.)  Hard  by 
this  plazuela  is  the  Jardin  Morelos  (PI.  A,  2),  writh  a somewhat 
idealized  bronze  statue  of  Jose  Marta  Morelos  y Pavon. 

Another  monument  to  Hidalgo  stands  near  the  rly.  (F.  Cs. 
Nacionales)  station.  It  is  of  white  marble,  from  the  Tenancingo 
quarries,  and  carries  busts  of  Allende,  Aldama  and  Abasola. 
Still  another  monument,  erected  to  commemorate  certain 
illustrious  Mexicans,  stands  in  the  Jardin  de  los  H ombres 
Ilustres.  The  shaft  is  an  obelisk,  30  ft.  high,  and  dates  from 
1889.  It  is  adorned  with  the  national  arms,  the  names  of 
many  eminent  Mexicans,  and  carries  a metal  bust,  in  high 
relief,  of  the  celebrated  poetess,  Juana  Ines  de  la  Cruz  (comp, 
p.  cxlix). 

At  the  entrance  to  the  Paseo  de  Colon,  at  the  S.  end  of  the 
city,  is  the  handsome  new  church,  La  Parroquia  del  Ranchito 
(PI.  B,  4),  completed  and  dedicated  Aug.  11,  1891.  The  older 
portion  of  the  ch.  dates  from  the  18th  century.  The  spacious 
interior  contains  a number  of  large  paintings  of  the  modern 
school.  Midway  of  the  paseo  is  a Corinthian  column  erected  to 
celebrate  the  4th  centenarv  of  the  discovery  of  America,  and 
intended  for  the  statue  of  Columbus  (see  below),  which  proved 
too  massive  for  the  pillar. 

The  Monumento  de  Colon  (PI.  B,  4),  erected  in  1892  on 
the  old  Calzada  de  Capultitlan  (now  Paseo  de  Colon),  is  the 
finest  in  the  city.  A good  automobile  road  extends  past  the 
statue  and  far  out  into  the  country.  The  walk  to  the  end  of 
the  paseo  should  be  taken  both  for  an  inspection  of  the  statue 
and  for  the  fine  view  of  the  surrounding  country.  The  in- 
scription on  the  face  of  the  pedestal  advises  that  “ the  people 
and  the  Government  of  the  State  of  Mexico,  associated  with 
the  resident  Spanish  colony,  erected  this  monument  to  the 
memory  of  the  immortal  discoverer  of  America.”  On  the  1. 
side  are  the  bronze  coat-of-arms  of  Mexico.  The  inscription 
on  the  S.  side  reads:  “ A remembrance  of  imperishable  grati- 
tude to  Isabel  the  Catholic  and  the  other  illustrious  collab- 
orators in  the  work  of  the  eminent  Christopher  Columbus.” 
On  the  r.  are  the  arms  of  Castile  and  Leon.  The  statue  of  the 
great  Genoese  navigator  surmounts  a globe  resting  upon  a 
short  and  massive  column  which  in  turn  stands  upon  a broad, 
quadrangular  plinth  or  zocle,  reached  by  four  flights  of  steps. 


198  Route  38. 


STATE  OF  MEXICO 


It  is  a striking  and  permanent  refutation  of  Baron  Von 
Humboldt’s  remark  that  “ the  Mexicans  were  unmindful  of 
the  merits  of  that  great  man.” 

Excursions : Two  miles  W.  of  the  town  is  the  Church  of 
Nuestra  SeNora  de  Tecajic,  a popular  Indian  shrine  with 
a much  venerated  image  (painted  on  coarse  cotton  cloth)  of 
the  Assumption  of  the  Virgin.  It  dates  from  a few  years  after 
the  alleged  appearance  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  (1531), 
is  of  no  special  merit,  and  is  doubtless  the  work  of  some 
jealous  friar  not  to  be  outdone  by  his  more  alert  brothers  at 
the  capital.  The  credulous  Indians  attribute  magic  healing 
powers  to  the  picture  and  make  long  and  laborious  pilgrimages 
to  lay  their  troubles  before  it. 

A trip  to  El  Nevado  Mt.  should  be  planned  only  with  the 
advice  of  the  hotel  manager.  At  certain  seasons  snow-slides 
render  the  ascent  perilous.  The  crater  contains  a curious 
lake  in  which  there  is  a small  whirlpool  ( vortice ).  Good  guides 
are  difficult  to  obtain.  SI  to  $2  a day  is  ample  for  their  services. 

The  Ferrocarriles  de  Toluca  a Tenango  (PI.  C,  3)  and  San  Juan 
de  las  Huertas  (PI. A,  2)  run  frequent  trains  (consult  Ghiia  Oficial)  to  the 
suburban  towns  of  4 Kil.  San  Francisco  ; 7 K.  Metepec  ; 13  K.  Mexical - 
cinqo;  18  K.  Calimaya  ; 23  K.  San  Aguslin  ; 25  K.  Tenango  and  30  K. 
A It  a.  None  of  these  points  will  repay  the  tourist  for  the  time  spent  in 
visiting  them. 

The  State  of  Mexico,  designated  geographically  as  an  Es - 
tado  del  Centro , with  a pop.  of  934,463  and  an  area  of  23,957 
sqr.  kilom.,  is  one  of  the  smallest  but  most  progressive  of  the 
Mex.  states,  and  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  Hidalgo,  on  the  E. 
by  Tlaxcala  and  Puebla , on  the  S.,  S.-E.  and  S.-W.  by  Morelos 
and  Guerrero  and  on  the  W.  by  Michoacan.  During  the  Spanish 
dominion  the  region  embraced  the  present  states  of  Hidalgo , 
Morelos  and  Guerrero , and  the  Federal  District,  and  was  called 
the  Intendencia  de  Mexico , because  the  capital,  Mexico  City, 
was  within  its  borders.  For  political  reasons  it  is  divided  into 
15  Distritos:  Chaleo,  Cuauhtitlan,  Ixtlahuaca,  Jilotepec,  Lerma , 
Otumba,  Sultepec,  Tlalnepantla,  Temascaltepec,  Tenancingo , 
Tenango,  T excoco,  Toluca,  and  the  Valles  de  Bravo  and  Zum- 
pango.  The  capital,  Toluca , is  described  at  p.  194. 

Nature  has  divided  it  into  two  well-defined  regions;  the  E. 
a plain,  the  W.  a mountainous  region.  Between  the  various 
ridges  which  characterize  the  latter  are  fine  valleys,  and, 
stretching  away  from  the  foothills,  are  vast  upland  plains, 
some  of  them  8,000  ft.  above  the  sea.  Chief  among  them  are 
the  Plains  of  Chaleo,  Texcoco,  Otumba,  Teotihuacan , Cuauhtit- 
lan, Tlalnepantla  and  Zumpango,  the  latter  in  the  Valley  of 
Mexico.  Near  Toluca  are  the  plains  of  Almoloya,  Ixtlahuaca 
and  Tenango.  The  table-land  is  intersected  by  low  foothills 
and  dotted  with  salt  lakes  and  marshes.  Certain  regions  are 
grandly  rugged,  with  Popocatepetl  (p  463)  as  the  culminating 


REAL  DEL  ORO 


37.  Route.  199 


point.  Hard  by  Toluca  is  the  fine  peak  of  Xinantecatl  — “ the 
naked  man”  (14,900  ft.)  — also  called  Nevado  de  Toluca,  with 
a lake  of  potable  water  in  its  now  quiescent  crater.  The  Ajusco 
range,  the  Sierra  de  Guadalupe,  that  of  Las  Cruces,  Temascalte- 
pec,  Monte  Alto  and  Monte  Bajo,  and  many  minor  peaks  are 
features  of  the  state. 

Within  the  confines  of  this  state  are  two  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful and  celebrated  valleys  of  the  Republic — The  Valley 
of  Mexico  (p.  244)  and  V.  of  Toluca.  The  latter  is  celebrated 
for  the  production  of  good  blackberry  wine  {vino  de  zarza ), 
for  bulls  for  the  Mexico  City  ring  and  for  many  minor  pro- 
ducts. The  mats  {petates)  made  from  tules  (reeds),  and  baskets 
{chiquihuites)  rank  among  the  best. 

Climatological  conditions  vary  with  the  altitude.  It  is 
colder  in  Toluca  than  in  Mex.  City. 

The  Lerma,  the  most  important  river  in  the  Republic,  rises 
in  the  state,  and  travels  452  kilom.  before  emptying  its  waters 
into  Lake  Chapala  (p.  152),  whence  it  emerges  under  another 
name  (the  Santiago)  and  merges  with  the  Pacific  Ocean  near 
San  Bias.  The  principal  lakes  are  Zumpango,  San  Cristobal, 
Texcoco  and  Chaleo , all  near  Mex.  City.  The  flora  and  fauna 
are  those  proper  to  the  temperate  and  frigid  zones.  The  state 
is  unusually  rich  in  minerals,  gold,  silver  and  lead  forming 
the  chief  output.  The  greatest  mining-camp  is  Real  del  Oro , 
described  below. 

Toluca,  see  p.  194.  The  train  traverses  a broad  plain  which 
alternates  with  hills  and  valleys.  Many  dry  arroyos  cross  the 
country.  Tunnel.  81  K. Palmillas.  84  K.  Presa.  98  K .Del Rio. 

112  K.  Ixtlahuaca.  The  town  lies  about  1 M.  to  the  r.  on  a 
level  plain,  and  is  reached  over  a good  road.  {Hotel  Rayon,  $2- 
$3  Am.  PL)  Usual  charge  by  diligencia,  50  c.  The  high  steel 
towers  seen  from  the  train  carry  electric  energy  from  Necaxa 
(p.  517)  to  the  distant  mining-town  of  El  Oro.  125  K.  Tepetitlan. 

134  K.  Flor  de  Maria.  Rly.  restaurant.  Meals  $1.  144  K. 
Manto.  155  K.  Bassoco.  159  K.  Venta  del  Aire. 

164  K.  Tultenango.  A branch  railway,  F.  C.  Minero  de  El  Oro , 
runs  hence  to  47  K.  Yondese,  via  10  K.  El  Oro,  19  K.  La  Cima, 
24  K.  Los  Medanos,  31  K.  Carmona  and  39  K.  Trinidad.  One 
train  daily  in  five  hours.  Consult  Guia  Oficial. 

Real  del  Oro  (Royal  of  the  gold)  or  El  Oro , as  it  is  commonly  known 
(9,200  ft. — State  of  Mexico),  one  of  the  richest  and  most  celebrated  min- 
ing-camps in  the  Republic,  a picturesque  but  somewhat  unkempt  town 
nestling  in  a pocket  of  the  hills,  came  into  prominence  late  in  the  18th 
century  when  the  Spaniards  discovered  the  enormously  rich  Veto,  Des- 
cubridora.  Between  1800  and  1825  the  output  of  mineral  was  so  large  that 
it  attracted  the  attention  of  miners  from  many  parts  of  the  world.  To-day 
a score  or  more  mines  dot  the  hills  and  the  output  of  gold  is  perhaps 
greater  than  that  of  any  other  similar  district  in  Mexico.  “Much of  the 
ore  is  found  in  particles  imperceptible  to  the  naked  eye,  in  a matrix  of 
quartz  which  contains  a sulphuret  of  silver,  disseminated  through  the 
mass  in  narrow  strips.”  Most  of  the  machinery  in  the  camp  is  run  by 


200  Route  37. 


ACAMBARO 


Zitdcua.ro. 


electrical  energy  supplied  over  wires  from  the  central  plant  of  the  Mex- 
ican Light  and  Power  Company  at  Necaxa  Falls.  The  boundary-line  of 
the  States  of  Mexico  and  Michoacan  passes  through  the  camp,  which  is 
steadily  growing.  Snow  often  falls  in  El  Oro  during  the  short  winter 
months.  For  a history  of  the  mines  and  the  region  consult:  Real  del  Oro , 
T.  C.  Graham,  printed  by  C.  B.  Hamilton  & Co.,  Mexico,  1899. 

Our  line  parallels  that  of  the  rly.  to  El  Oro  for  a few  hundred 
yards ; then  the  latter  turns  off  to  the  1.  We  cross  a short  strip 
of  level  country,  then  penetrate  the  hills  and  skirt  the  edge 
of  a long  and  deep  barranca ; at  the  farther  end  of  this  we 
emerge  on  a narrow  ledge,  curve  to  the  right,  sweep  clear 
around  the  head  of  a fine  and  very  long  valley,  and  gain  a 
splendid  view  of  hundreds  of  square  miles  of  well-cultivated 
valley  land  dotted  with  haciendas  and  bounded  at  one  end 
by  a series  of  stone  palisades  like  those  of  the  Hudson  River. 
We  describe  a series  of  double  horseshoe  curves  before  reach- 
ing 176  K.  Solis.  Hereabout  the  scenery  is  very  attractive. 
The  view  ( golpe  de  vista)  embraces  a wide  sweep  of  country 
sprinkled  with  maguey  plantations.  The  upland  plains  are 
the  grazing-grounds  for  many  herds  of  horses  and  cattle, 
while  the  lowlands  hold  dimpling  lakes  in  their  green  bosoms. 
Mountain  peaks  everywhere  mark  the  sky-line.  187  K.  Tepe - 
ton  go.  194  K.  Agua  Buena.  197  K.  Colorado.  201  K.  Mayor. 
Hurtling  winds  sweep  across  the  highlands  hereabout  and  the 
squat  homes  of  the  natives  have  their  roofs  held  down  by 
stones,  to  prevent  their  blowing  off.  206  K .Pateo.  210  K. 
Pomoca , a shipping-point  for  charcoal. 

A mile  or  more  before  reaching  Maravatio,  our  line  joins 
that  of  the  Division  de  Michoacan  y Pacifico  (see  below). 
The  trains  from  this  line  join  the  main  fine  on  a Y and  back 
into  the  station  of  the  Mex.  Nat.  at 

224  K.  Maravatio , a nondescript  town  (J  M.  to  1.  of  station), 
with  a weather-beaten  church  of  no  merit.  Hotel  Universal , 
$2  Am.  PI. 

A daily  mixed  train  runs  hence,  over  the  Division  de  Michoacan  y 
Pacifico , to  S6  K.  Zitdcuaro  (6,560  ft.),  in  5 hrs. 

236  K.  San  Antonio.  We  skirt  the  brink  of  a deep  gorge 
with  a plunging  stream  at  its  base,  then  round  the  edge  of  a 
vast  depression  in  the  hills.  245  K.  Zirizicuaro.  The  train 
crosses  a poor  region  sprinkled  with  mesquite  and  furrowed 
with  dry  arroyos.  257  K.  Tarandacuao.  In  the  depressions 
among  the  hills  are  several  quiet  lakes,  the  feeding-ground 
for  many  ducks  that  breed  here  practically  undisturbed.  The 
prospect  betters.  Hence  to  Acdmbaro,  through  the  stations 
of  265  K.  San  Jose , and  273  K.  Providencia , the  train  winds 
among  hills.  Hard  by  San  Jose  is  the  little  pueblo  of  Aguas - 
calientes , with  some  crude  thermal  springs.  286  K.  Acambaro. 
Comp.  p.  108. 

The  train  travels  to  the  1.  and  soon  after  leaving  Acdmbaro 


LAKE  CUITZEO 


37.  Route.  201 


we  compass  the  high  hills  by  long,  sweeping  curves.  The  view 
of  the  town,  now  from  one  side  of  the  train,  now  from  the  other, 
is  attractive.  We  soon  enter  a wild  region  of  deep  valleys 
and  precipitous  hills,  verdure  covered.  Patches  of  corn  reach 
far  up  the  hillsides,  which  in  some  places  are  terraced  by  the 
laborious  husbandmen.  From  the  heights  we  obtain  beguil- 
ing views  of  hundreds  of  miles  of  lowland  dotted  with  lakes 
and  enlivened  by  omnipresent  water-fowl. 

300  K.  La  Cumbre.  The  wild  gorge  is  called  Escape  de  la 
Cumbre.  The  topographical  irregularity  has  necessitated 
many  expensive  cuttings  and  terraces.  The  line  soon  seeks 
the  lower  levels,  skirting  broad,  cultivated  fields  with  a series 
of  lakes  (on  the  r.)  in  which  the  reflection  of  the  hills  is  beau- 
tiful. The  configuration  of  the  country  is  particularly  adapted 
to  the  husbanding  of  the  rains  which  pour  down  the  water- 
sheds, and  there  is  perhaps  no  finer  lake  region  in  the  Mexican 
Republic.  The  largest  of  the  lakes  visible  from  the  train  is 
Cuitzeo,  in  the  valley  of  the  same  name.  On  an  island  in  this 
lake  dwells  a tribe  of  Indians  who  live  in  a very  primitive  way 
and  refuse  communication  with  the  outer  world.  The  scenery 
to  the  r.  recalls  certain  bits  of  shore  along  the  Gulf  of  Finland. 
We  descend  steadily,  reaching  the  lowlands  by  a complicated 
series  of  loops  and  curves. 

318  K.  Andocutin , a poor  station  in  a sheltered  valley, 
with  Cuitzeo  Lake  visible  to  the  r.  Tall  hills  rise  on  the  1. 
We  skirt  the  shore  of  the  lake  for  several  miles.  Just  before 
reaching  324  K.  Huingo,  we  cross  a large  tract  devoted  to  the 
production  of  salt.  The  method  is  very  primitive.  The  earth 
from  the  old  lacustrine  deposits  is  shovelled  into  huge  hoppers, 
water  is  poured  in,  the  salt  is  taken  up  in  solution  and  the 
briny  water  is  then  run  out  on  to  shallow  wood  pans  where 
it  is  allowed  to  evaporate.  The  process  is  slow  and  the  returns 
are  meagre.  The  product  is  shipped  to  adjacent  towns  and 
sold  to  the  poorer  classes.  Many  conical  hills  of  refuse  earth  dot 
the  region.  We  continue  to  skirt  the  shore  of  the  lake.  Hard 
by  is  a primitive  club-house,  or  shooting-box,  the  resort  of 
Mexico  City  sportsmen. 

330  K.  Coro,  on  the  edge  of  the  lake  (Cuitzeo),  which  here 
is  sprinkled  with  reeds  and  alive  with  water-fowl.  337  K. 
Querendaro,  at  the  S.  end  of  the  lake.  We  penetrate  a region 
of  tall  nopal  cacti  and  mesquite.  340  K.  Zinzimeo,  a neg- 
lected town  in  a broad  valley  with  only  the  sunshine  to 
recommend  it.  351  K.  Quirio.  358  K.  Charo , a poor  town 
(1  M.  to  1.  of  station,  1,000  inhab.)  with  a single  ch.  and  a 
commanding  tower. 

Hence  to  Morelia  (see  p.  202)  via  364  K.  La  Goleta,  and  367 
K.  Atapaneo,  it  is  up-grade  and  the  train  winds  in  and  out 
among  the  hills.  We  approach  the  town  from  the  E.  and  half- 
circle it  to  the  station  at  the  S.-W.  The  towers  of  the  cathe- 


202  Route  39. 


MORELIA 


dral  (p.  204)  rise  picturesquely  above  the  houses  and  dom- 
inate the  surrounding  country.  For  a continuation  of  the 
journey  see  p.  209. 

39.  Morelia. 

Arrival.  Rly.  restaurant,  meals  $1.  Tram-cars  ( tranvias  de  Morelia) 
meet  trains  and  run  to  the  centre  of  the  town.  Fare  6 c.  (double  after 
10  p.  m.  . Time  about  8 min.  Distance  1 M.  to  the  Plaza  Mayor.  Lug- 
gage checks  should  be  given  to  the  hotel  runner  or  the  manager. 
Trunks.  50  c.  There  are  but  few  cabs  in  the  town,  as  the  tram-cars  run 
to  all  points.  It  is  well  to  remember  that  the  tranvias  sometimes  start 
for  the  station  a half-hour  or  so  before  the  train  leaves.  If  this  last  car  is 
missed  the  journey  must  be  made  on  foot.  The  centre  of  the  town  is 
advertised  by  the  Cathedral  towers  (Pl.C,  3)  visible  from  the  station. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  H otel  del  J ardin  (PI.  D,  3),  First  CalleNacional 
(or  Real),  No.  10.  German-American.  Rooms  only,  50  c.  to  $1.50. 
The  latter  are  the  best  and  face  the  street.  The  side  rooms  are  ventilated 
through  the  door  which  looks  out  on  the  patio.  The  small  rooms  in  the 
rear  75  c.)  are  preferable.  Meals,  60  c.  Tram-cars  pass  the  door. — Gran 
Hotel  Morelos  (PI.  D,  3),  Calle  Nacional,  13,  $2-$3,  Am.  PI. 

Banks.  Banco  del  Estado  de  Mexico , 

Shops.  The  best  are  on  the  Calle  Real  (or  Nacional)  and  in  the 
portales. 

Morelia  (6,200  ft.),  capital  of  the  State  of  Michoacan, 
pop.  37,300,  was  founded  May  18,  1541,  by  the  Viceroy  Don 
Antonio  de  Mendoza,  under  the  name  of  Valladolid,  because 
of  its  resemblance  to  the  Spanish  city  of  that  name  — the 
Moorish  Belad-W ali,  “land  of  the  Governor/’  To  differentiate 
it  from  other  Valladolid '$  in  New  Spain,  it  was  called  T7.  de 
Michoacan.  To  the  resident  Indians  the  spot  on  which  the 
new  town  was  founded  was  known  as  El  Valle  de  Guayan- 
gareo.  The  city  is  celebrated  in  Mexican  history  as  the  birth- 
place of  the  revolutionary  patriot,  Jose  Maria  Morelos  y Pavon, 
in  whose  memory  a legislative  decree  of  Sept.  12,  1828,  gave 
the  place  its  present  name. 

Two  causes  are  said  to  have  contributed  to  the  selection 
of  the  rich  Valley  of  Guayangareo  as  the  site  for  the  town: 
its  strategic  importance  with  relation  to  the  subjugation  of 
the  Indians  of  the  district,  and  those  of  the  contiguous  State 
of  Jalisco,  and  because  of  its  delightful  climate,  supplemented 
by  the  beautiful  blue  sky  which  arches  above  it.  It  bears 
a relation  to  Massachusetts  and  to  Virginia,  in  the  U.  S.  A., 
in  that  many  of  the  nobility  selected  the  place  as  their  home 
in  the  New  World.  The  town  is  celebrated  in  Spanish  song 
and  story  for  its  lovely  Spanish  women  and  for  the  purity  of 
the  spoken  language. 

“It  would  seem,”  says  Mr.  Baxter,  “as  if  some  great  artist  in  civic 
design  as  well  as  in  architecture  must  have  taken  it  upon  himself  to 
realize  his  ideal  in  the  setting  of  a most  charming  city  amid  a landscape 
of  rare  beauty:  crowning  the  whole  with  an  adorable  masterpiece  (the 
Cathedral),  which  to  a rarely  satisfying  degree  combines  elegance  with 
dignity  in  perfect  proportions.  In  its  every  aspect  Morelia  still  bears  out 
the  delightful  statement  of  the  Augustinian  friar,  Diego  Basalenque , who 
in  his  chronicle  of  its  foundation  uses  these  words: 


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MORELIA 


39.  Route.  203 


44  ‘The  Viceroy  Mendoza  found  a very  charming  site  for  a city,  having 
the  seven  qualities  which  Plato  declares  such  a site  should  have;  ana 
there  he  founded  a city  with  the  name  of  his  own  country,  Valladolid, 
joining  together  some  of  the  most  noble  people  that  were  to  be  found  in 
all  the  earth  to  be  its  citizens,  so  that  at  once  a small  but  very  noble  city 
was  there.’ 

“In  the  midst  of  a valley  luxuriant  with  the  vegetation  developed  by 
rich  cultivation  in  a perfect  climate,  and  surrounded  by  high  mountains 
with  nobly  rounded  summits,  stands  the  gentle  elevation  upon  which 
the  city  is  built,  in  form  something  like  an  inverted  saucer.  At  the 
highest  point  stands  the  Cathedral,  flanked  by  two  large  open  spaces  with 
beautiful  gardens  — the  Plaza  de  los  Mdrtires  and  the  Plaza  de  laPaz .” 

The  Rio  Chiquito  flows  along  the  S.  edge  of  the  town, 
uniting  at  the  W.  with  the  Rio  Grande , which  courses  along  the 
N.  suburb  and  crosses  the  Calzada  de  Santiaguito.  Toward 
the  E.  rises  the  Cerro  de  Punhuato;  at  the  N.-W.  is  the  Pico 
de  Quinceo  (10,985  ft.),  and  cutting  the  S.  sky-line,  rising 
to  a height  of  10,000  ft.,  is  the  Cerro  de  San  Andres.  The 
picturesque  pueblo  to  the  S.  of  the  town  is  Santa  Maria 
de  la  Asuncion.  That  at  the  N.  is  Santiaguito  (Little 
Jimmy). 

Morelia  is  locally  celebrated  for  delicious  dulces  (sweets) 
made  of  quince  ( membrillo , Pyrus  Cydonia ) and  for  a palatable 
wine  called  Vino  de  membrillo. 

The  town  is  unusually  healthy,  and  in  1908  one  of  the 
inhabitants  died  at  the  advanced  age  of  115  years.  She  lived 
in  the  Calle  de  la  Carreras , which,  curiously  enough,  is  con- 
sidered the  healthiest  street  in  the  place,  inasmuch  as  many 
of  the  persons  who  dwell  here  are  between  80  and  90  years  old. 
During  the  cholera  epidemics  of  1833  and  1850  the  people 
flocked  to  this  street,  believing  that  once  there  they  would  be 
exempt  from  attack. 

The  Climate  is  dry,  uniform  and  thoroughly  delightful.  The 
location  ensures  excellent  drainage.  The  streets  radiate  from 
the  central  plaza  and  wind  downward  to  the  environing  mead- 
ows. The  place  bears  the  somewhat  unfortunate  distinction 
of  being  plagued  by  fleas  ( pulgas ).  The  climate  seems  just 
suited  to  their  vigorous  development  and  they  await  the 
coming  of  the  traveller  with  an  appetite  which  reflects  doubt 
on  the  toothsomeness  of  the  Morelianos. 

At  the  outbreak  of  the  War  for  Independence  (1810)  Morelia 
had  a population  of  20,000.  It  was  a sort  of  headquarters  for 
revolucionarios , and  the  Spaniards  hunted  them  there  with 
unabated  diligence.  A year  after  the  war  was  on,  many  of 
the  houses  were  in  ruins  from  bombardment,  grass  grew  in  the 
streets  and,  because  of  the  almost  unexampled  cruelty  of 
the  Spanish  Colonel,  Torcuato  Trujillo , all  but  about  3,000 
of  the  inhabitants  had  left  or  been  killed.  Many  of  the  present 
structures  date  from  a period  soon  after  the  close  of  the 
war.  It  is  a reliquary  of  the  revolution.  Chief  among  the  old 
historic  houses  is  one  (near  the  San  Agustin  church)  where, 


204  Route  39. 


MORELIA 


Cathedral. 


according  to  the  inscription  let  into  the  wall,  “The  immortal 
Jose  Maria  Morelos  was  born,  Sept.  30,  1765.”  Tradition 
has  it  that  Don  Manuel  Morelos,  a carpenter  by  trade,  lived 
near  the  Prendimiento  Chapel.  The  Sehora  Doha  Juana 
Pavon  (his  wife),  surprised  in  the  street  by  the  pangs  of  child- 
birth, darted  into  the  nearest  house,  fortunately  that  of  a 
friend,  and  bore  the  child  that  was  in  later  years  to  be  one 
of  the  liberators  of  Mexico.  The  house  in  which  Morelos  lived, 
on  the  corner  of  the  First  Calle  de  Morelos  and  the  Ninth 
Iturbide  (PI.  D,  3),  was  originally  of  but  one  story  ; the  upper 
floor  was  added  in  1809.  In  the  salon  of  this  house  is  preserved 
the  handkerchief  which  bound  the  patriot’s  eyes  on  the  day 
of  his  execution  (Dec.  22,  1815)  at  San  Cristobal  Ecatepec . 
The  inscription  on  the  fagade,  in  Spanish,  reads : 

“ Illustrious  Morelos!  Immortal  Hero!  In  this  house, 
honored  by  thy  presence,  the  grateful  people  of  Morelia  sa- 
lute you!  ” An  historic  house  is  No.  2 in  the  Fourth  Calle  de 
Allen  de,  the  one-time  residence  of  Don  Melchor  Ocampo , a 
celebrated  patriot,  and  for  whom  the  State  of  Michoacan  is 
named.  There  is  a monument  to  him,  in  the  Plaza  de  la  Paz. 
The  patriot  Don  Santos  Degollado  dwelt  in  the  house  number 
of  the  Second  Calle  de  Matamoros.  During  his  residence  in 
Morelia,  the  Austrian  Archduke  Maximilian  lived  in  the  house 
No.  1 at  the  corner  of  the  Primera  Matamoros  and  Cuarta 
Aldama.  An  inscription  on  the  fagade  of  the  house  in  the 
Primera  Calle  de  Iturbide  says:  “Agustin  de  Iturbide,  Liber- 
ator of  Mexico,  was  born  in  this  house,  Sept.  27,  1783.” 

La  Plaza  Principal  (PI.  C,  3),  commonly  known  as  the  Jar- 
din  de  los  Mdrtires  (garden  of  the  Martyrs),  is  a quadrangular, 
flower-embowered  spot  adjacent  to  the  Cathedral,  on  the  W. 

In  a commanding  position  in  this  plaza  is  a fine  statue  to 
Morelos.  On  the  scroll  in  the  hand  of  the  figure  is  inscribed, 
“Liberty  to  the  Slaves,  Oct.  5,  1813.”  On  the  marble  tablets 
are  these  inscriptions: 

“ He  was  born  in  this  city,  Sept.  30,  1765,  and  he  died 
for  his  country,  in  the  village  of  Ecatepec,  Dec.  22,  1815.”  — 
“ He  was  Commander-in-Chief  and  the  recipient  of  the  Su- 
preme Executive  Power  of  the  Nation  in  the  War  for  Inde- 
pendence.”— “ Leader  in  the  Cause  of  Liberty,  he  proclaimed 
Republican  principles  and  established  the  First  Mexican  Con- 
gress in  Apatzingan,  in  1813.” — “He  crowned  his  glory  and 
heroism  by  the  immortal  defence  of  Cuauhtla  in  1812.”  — 
The  anniversary  of  the  birth  of  Morelos  is  celebrated  annu- 
ally throughout  the  Republic. 

The  Cathedral  (PI.  C,  3),  begun  in  1640  by  Bishop  Marcos 
Ramirez  de  Prado  and  completed  in  1744,  faces  N.,  stands  be- 
tween the  Plazas  de  la  Paz  and  de  los  M artires,  and  is,  perhaps, 
the  most  beautiful  of  all  the  Mexican  churches.  “For  an  edi- 
fice whose  erection  extended  over  so  long  a period  it  has  sin- 


Cathedral . 


MORELIA 


39.  Route.  205 


gular  unity  and  coherence  of  style,  indicating  that  the  orig- 
inal designs  must  have  been  faithfully  followed.  It  took  until 
1706  to  carry  it  far  enough  for  dedication.  Even  then  the 
towers  were  not  built,  and  it  was  not  until  1744  that  they  were 
completed.  The  building  material  is  a pinkish  trachyte.  It 
is  the  only  church  edifice  of  any  note  in  Mexico  built  in  the 
Plateresque  style ; a circumstance  that  lends  it  special  interest. 
It  therefore  lacks  the  florid  quality  that  characterizes  Mexi- 
can architecture  as  a rule.  Its  magnificent  proportions  are 
distinguished  by  a striking  delicacy  of  line  — low-relief  or- 
nament concentrated  in  the  customary  Spanish  fashion  be- 
tween the  extraordinarily  broad  and  massive  tower-bases, 
about  the  transept  portals  and  upon  the  exquisitely  graceful 
towers  whose  glorious  lightness  increases  with  their  height. 
An  excellent  example  of  comparatively  modern  Mexican  iron- 
work is  furnished  by  the  iron  gates  and  fence  about  the 
atrium  erected  in  1854.”  (Sylvester  Baxter.) 

The  enormous  stone-flagged  atrium  extends  around  three 
sides  of  the  structure,  which  has  four  entrances;  two  facing 
N.,  one  E.,  and  one  W.  The  two  tiled  domes  are  curiously 
small  for  so  large  a building.  The  carvings  in  low  relief  above 
the  entrances  are  fine  examples  of  old  work.  The  immensely 
tall  towers  (210  ft.  high)  are  provided  with  clusters  of  electric 
arc-lights  and  the  effect  at  night  is  very  attractive.  The  lamps 
are  beacons  visible  for  miles  around.  More  than  2,000  elec- 
tric lamps  are  used  to  illuminate  the  interior  of  the  ch. 

The  Interior  was  once  celebrated  for  its  massive  silver 
communion-railing  and  ornaments  of  sterling  character. 
These  to  the  value  of  $400,000  were  removed  by  the  order 
of  tl^e  Federal  Government,  Sept.  23,  1858,  because  the  ch. 
refund  to  pay  a war  contribution  of  $100,000.  The  interior 
was  re-decorated  in  1899  in  the  modern  style,  and  all  the  su- 
perb decorations  of  the  old  days  were  destroyed.  Several  of 
the  altars  were  replaced  in  1875.  Unlike  other  Mexican  cathe- 
drals the  nave  of  this  one  is  filled  with  seats  and  these,  coupled 
with  the  not  wholly  inharmonious  brown  and  gold  decorations, 
give  it  the  air  of  a foreign  ch.  Both  the  nave  and  the  fine 
aisles  are  paved  with  mosaic  tiling.  The  massive  piers  are 
attractive.  The  splendid  carved  wood  organ-case,  with  gilded 
pipes,  above  the  main  entrance,  is  noteworthy.  Behind  one 
of  the  piers  of  the  tabernaculo,  now  enclosed  by  a heavy  marble 
railing,  is  a smaller  organ  which  is  used  in  the  daily  services. 
The  polychrome  pictures  in  high  relief  representing  the  sta- 
tions of  the  cross,  adorning  the  pilasters,  are  of  German  origin. 
Light  is  admitted  through  a fine  series  of  oval  windows  which 
in  a Gothic  ch.  would  be  those  of  the  clerestory.  Almost  every 
inch  of  the  interior  is  decorated  and  the  effect  is  somewhat 
mazy,  with  an  unpleasant  suggestion  of  newness.  The  relicario 
of  the  high  altar  is  of  finely  chiselled  gold  and  silver,  indicative 


206  Route  39. 


MORELIA 


Palacio. 


of  what  the  quality  of  the  sequestrated  ornaments  must  have 
been.  The  sillcria  of  the  coro  is  carved  and  gilded.  The 
oval  picture  (on  the  r.)  above,  in  a gilt  frame,  represents 
the  Flight  into  Egypt.  The  companion  picture  opposite 
is  San  Esteban ,•  Protomartyr . These  pictures  are  unsigned, 
but  they  are  probably  the  work  of  Ibarra  or  Cabrera.  The 
sacristy,  immediately  to  the  r.  of  the  presbiterio,  contains  (at 
the  r.  of  the  entrance)  a large  picture  representing  the  Doc- 
tors of  the  Church:  San  Agustin,  St.  Tomas  de  Aquino  and 
San  Buenaventura , unsigned  and  attributed  to  J . Rodriguez 
Juarez.  The  allegorical  picture  just  outside  the  sacristia,  in 
the  r.  aisle,  facing  the  tabernaculo , is  also  attributed  to  this 
painter.  The  best  picture  in  the  sacristy  is  a Christ  Crucified, 
unsigned  and  undated.  The  companion  piece  to  this  is  a scene 
from  the  Oracion  del  Huerto.  The  small  portrait  is  of  Bishop 
Quiroga  (comp.  p.  212).  The  polychrome  rood  is  of  no  merit. 
In  this  room  are  two  valuable  old  Chinese  vases  ( tibores ) used 
as  water-coolers.  The  ch.  is  supposed  to  possess  a number  of 
relics  (never  shown  to  visitors) ; noteworthy  among  them  an 
alleged  piece  of  the  True  Cross ; the  bodies  of  the  martyred 
saints  Pio  and  Cristobal;  the  arms  of  San  Lucio,  San  Froilan 
and  San  Feliciano,  and  minor  objects.  In  the  sagrario  is  the 
baptismal  font  in  which  the  patriot  Jose  Maria  Morelos  and 
the  Emperor  Agustin  de  Iturbide  were  baptized.  For  reference 
to  the  first  cathedral  and  the  first  bishop  of  Michoacan,  see 

p.  211. 

El  Palacio  de  Gobierno,  called  Palacio  de  los  Poderes  del 
Estado,  facing  the  Cathedral,  and  with  quaint  turrets,  was 
formerly  the  Colegio  Seminar io.  It  is  a fine  example  of  early 
Spanish  Colonial  architecture,  and  it  houses  the  State  Library 
( Biblioteca  del  Estado)  with  16,000  volumes,  the  government 
archives,  and  certain  of  the  government  offices. 

El  Palacio  de  Justi'cia  (PL  C,  3),  S.  of  the  Plaza  de  los 
Mdrtires;  and  the  Palacio  Municipal,  in  the  la  Calle  de  Ma- 
tamoros , contain  patios  in  the  old  style.  The  Escuela  de  Aries, 
adjacent  to  the  old  Church  of  La  Compahia,  also  has  an  in- 
teresting patio. 

The  Church  and  Convento  of  La  Compania  (PI.  C,  3) 
were  built  by  the  Jesuit  Fathers  in  1582.  The  tower  is  all  that 
remains  of  the  old  structure:  around  this,  on  the  site  of  the 
primitive  convent,  the  present  building  was  erected  in  1681. 
The  edifice  is  one  of  the  old  landmarks.  The  fagade  is  an  in- 
teresting example  of  the  17th  cent.  work. 

Flanking  the  Cathedral  and  the  two  plazas  are  (on  the  S.) 
the  Portales  de  Aldama  and  Allende  ; on  the  N.  the  P.  de  Hidalgo 
and  Iturbide  and  on  the  W.  that  of  Matamoros.  Let  into  a 
pillar  of  the  latter  portal  is  a tablet  with  the  inscription : “ For 
having  defanded  the  cause  of  Mexican  Independence,  the  meri- 
torious citizen  Mariano  Matamoros  was  shot  here,  Feb.  3,  1814, 


MORELIA  39.  Route.  207 

by  order  of  the  Spanish  Government.”  The  tablet  was  erected 
by  the  Patriotic  League  of  1860. 

El  Colegio  Primitivo  y Nacional  de  San  Nicolds  de  Hidalgo 
(PI.  C,  3),  called,  for  short,  El  Colegio  de  San  Nicolds  (St.  Nicho- 
las College),  founded  in  Patzcuaro,  in  1540,  by  Bishop  Vasco 
de  Quiroga , is  the  oldest  collegiate  relic  in  Mexico,  and  was 
the  second  of  its  kind  in  the  New  World.  The  first  was  that  of 
Santa  Cruz  Tlaltelolco , founded  in  the  City  of  Mexico  in  1537 
and  razed  more  than  a century  ago.  When  Fray  Juan  Medina 
Rincon  moved  the  Episcopal  Diocese  from  Patzcuaro,  he  also 
removed  the  old  college,  which  was  transferred  to  Valladolid 
and  there  merged  (Oct.  10,  1580)  with  a similar  institution, 
established  by  Fray  Juan  de  San  Miguel  and  called  Colegio 
de  S.  Miguel.  A law-school  was  added  to  the  college  by  a 
royal  order  dated  Nov.  23,  1787.  The  trust  for  its  maintenance 
was  confiscated  by  the  revolutionary  patriots  in  1810  and 
from  that  time  until  Jan.  17,  1847,  it  was  clausurado.  The 
patriot  priest  Miguel  Hidalgo  y Costilla  studied  and  taught 
philosophy  and  theology  here,  and  Jose  Maria  Morelos  was 
one  of  his  pupils.  Agustin  de  Iturbide  also  studied  here. 

The  inscription  on  the  house  at  the  corner  of  the  Calles 
Segundo  de  Morelos  and  Real  (PL  D,  3)  says:  “ In  this  house  in 
1809  the  first  secret  meeting  of  patriots  who  conspired  to  secure 
Mexican  Independence  was  held.” 

At  the  top  of  the  street  leading  up  from  the  rly.  station  is 
a mediocre  monument  with  a statue  representing  ‘‘Peace.” 

La  lglesia  de  las  Monjas  Catarinas  (PL  D,  3),  in  the  Calle 
Real , has  a number  of  large  allegorical  paintings  of  no  par- 
ticular merit.  Next  door  is  the  handsome  and  imposing 
Colegio  de  Guadalupe  with  the  Latin  inscription:  Non  fecit 
taliter  omni  natione  et  judicia  sua  non  manifestavit  eis. 

The  Church  of  San  Francisco  (PL  D,  3)  was  founded  in  1531 
and  is  in  consequence  one  of  the  oldest  in  Mexico.  The  date, 
1610,  over  the  main  portal,  refers  to  its  completion.  It  was 
renovated  in  1828.  A local  tradition  refers  to  a secret  passage 
which  is  supposed  to  lead  from  the  crypt  to  the  meadow  on  the 
edge  of  the  city ; presumably  dug  by  the  Spaniards  who  used 
the  ch.  as  a fortress.  Several  chapels  of  this  ch.  were  de- 
stroyed in  1872  to  make  space  for  the  adjacent  market. 

The  Church  of  Nuestra  Sehora  de  Socorro  (PL  C,  3),  founded 
in  1550,  belonged  to  the  Augustine  monks  (it  is  still  called 
San  Agustin ) and  contains  a much  venerated  image  of  the 
Virgin,  presented  to  the  ch.  by  Santo  Tomas  de  Villanueva. 
It  was  begun  in  1650,  on  the  site  of  former  ch.,  and  was  com- 
pleted some  years  later.  Among  the  ch.  relics  is  a portrait 
of  Fray  Alonzo  de  la  Cruz , founder  of  the  University  of  Mexico 
(1552);  Fray  Juan  Bautista , the  “Apostle  of  the  Tierra 
Caliente”  (died  Dec.  20,  1567),  and  one  of  the  historian  Diego 
Basalenque,  who  died  in  1651. 


208  Route  39, 


MORELIA 


La  Iglesia  del  Carmen  (PL  D,  2),  erected  in  1596  and  re- 
novated in  1839,  contains  some  pictures  by  Jose  and  Nicolas 
Juarez  and  a portrait  (attributed  to  Cabrera)  of  the  Bishop 
P ala  fox  y Mendoza. 

There  are  nearly  a score  of  churches  in  Morelia,  most  of 
them  without  interest  to  the  traveller. 

El  Museo  Michoacano  is  of  interest  to  residents  chiefly. 
In  a glass  case  is  preserved  the  wooden  leg  of  the  redoubtable 
General  Santa  Anna , see  p.  506. 

There  are  one  or  two  very  good  private  collections  of 
antiques  in  Morelia,  but  they  are  not  accessible  to  travellers. 

At  the  east  terminus  of  the  Calle  Real  (PI.  E,  3)  is  the  city 
end  of  the  fine  old  Aqueduct,  which  was  begun  in  1785  and 
completed  in  1789  at  a cost  of  8100,000.  This  sturdy  old  relic 
of  the  Spanish  dominion  in  Mexico  brings  potable  water  into 
the  town  from  the  distant  mountain  springs  of  Carindapaz, 
El  Moral  and  San  Miguel  del  Monte.  A line  of  terra-cotta 
pipes  winds  around  the  Cerro  del  Rincon  and  leads  the  water 
into  the  aqueduct  in  the  valley.  There  are  254  arches,  each 
27  ft.  high  and  18  ft.  wide.  The  vast  structure  enters  the  town 
from  the  S.-E.  near  the  Calle  Real,  which  it  crosses  before 
making  three  sharp  turns  and  skirting  the  little  Jar  din  de  Vil - 
lalongin.  On  the  great  arch  which  spans  the  entrance  to  the 
Paseo  de  Guadalupe  is  a Spanish  inscription  advising  that  “ This 
work  is  due  to  the  piety,  beneficence  and  charity  of  the  illus- 
trious Sehor  Doctor  Don  Fray  Antonio  de  San  Miguel,  the  most 
worthy  Bishop  of  Michoacan,  who  constructed  it  at  great 
personal  cost.  The  Municipality  of  Valladolid  erected  this 
tablet  to  his  memory  in  1788  and  renewed  it  in  1884;  the 
Licentiate  Pudenciano  Dor  antes  being  then  Governor  of  the 
State.”  On  the  companion  arch  is  a similar  tablet  bearing 
a Latin  translation  of  the  above. 

The  Calzada  de  Guadalupe  (a  raised  stone  causeway  400  ft. 
long  by  40  ft.  broad)  leads  S.-E.  from  the  Calle  Real  (at  the 
aqueduct  crossing)  and  is  a continuation  thereof.  It  was  con- 
structed in  1732  by  the  order  of  Bishop  Calatayud  to  provide 
an  easy  and  pleasant  approach  to  the  (uninteresting)  Santu- 
ario  de  Guadalupe  at  the  E.  terminus.  This  shaded  and  rest- 
ful promenade  is  a sort  of  local  Poet's  Walk.  Many  of  the  giant 
elms  which  once  adorned  it,  and  which  were  planted  by  the 
Spanish  Intendente  Juan  Antonio  Riano  (comp.  p.  139),  have 
perished.  At  the  end  of  the  walk,  opposite  the  church,  is  the 
small  Jardin  de  los  Aztecas,  with  some  Indian  monoliths  and 
fragments  of  stone  idols.  The  half-wild  park  to  the  right  of 
the  santuario  is  called  the  Paseo  Viejo. 

Passing  beneath  the  aqueduct  (at  the  Paseo  Viejo)  we  come 
to  the  sylvan  Bosque  de  San  Pedro  (PI.  E,  4),  laid  out  in  sym- 
metrical avenidas  that  are  beautifully  shaded  and  named  for 
poets,  musicians  and  military  heroes.  In  the  centre  is  a music 


PATZCUARO 


40.  Route.  209 


kiosk,  a small  lake,  and  one  or  more  cages  of  wild  animals. 
The  edge  of  the  park  is  dotted  with  pretty  bungalows.  This 
bosque  is  a source  of  civic  pride  to  the  Morelianos. 

The  walk  across  the  meadows  to  the  end  of  the  acueducto , 
— covered  in  some  places  with  beautiful  climbing  Bougain- 
villea (see  p.  442)  — thence  on  toward  the  springs  which  supply 
the  water,  is  interesting. 

Morelia , see  p.  202.  The  grade  ascends  through  a tree-dotted 
valley  hemmed  in  by  mts.  385  K.  La  Huerta.  The  line  curves 
sharply  to  the  r.  and  we  enter  a rocky  region  with  lakes  in  the 
lower  reaches.  The  railway  describes  a great  horseshoe  curve, 
and  as  we  climb  the  hills  we  obtain  splendid  vistas  in  re- 
trospect. From  390  K.  Monterrubio,  the  view  of  the  valley 
sprinkled  with  herds  of  grazing  cattle  and  flanked  by  blue 
mt.  peaks  is  beguiling.  Morelia , perched  on  the  uplands,  is 
seen  in  the  distance,  and  near  by  are  many  lakelets  in  green 
depressions  of  the  hills.  The  best  views  are  from  the  r.  The 
line  follows  terraces  cut  from  the  hills  and  soon  enters  the 
picturesque  Coincho  Canon,  with  a whimpering  river  at  the 
bottom  and  a plunging  waterfall  at  the  far  end.  The  grade  is 
steadily  upward  and  the  line  makes  many  twists  and  turns. 
In  this  district  are  some  hot  springs  that  are  popular  with 
the  Morelianos;  the  temperature  of  the  water  is  about  100° 
Fahr.  Most  of  the  streams  hereabout  are  warm,  with  a trace 
of  muriatic  acid  in  their  insipid  waters. 

397  K.  Juacuaro , a shipping-point  for  several  large  haciendas 
in  the  vicinity.  The  line  now  slopes  downward  and  we  obtain 
(to  the  1.)  fine  views  across  many  miles  of  rich  and  splendidly 
cultivated  valley-land.  407  K.  Coapa.  414  K.  Lagunilla.  420 
K.  Fontezuela.  We  enter  a wooded  region.  Many  lakes  dot 
the  lowlands  and  the  views  are  very  pretty.  We  pass  through 
427  K.  Chapultepec  and  a wild  and  rugged  gorge  of  the  same 
name.  As  we  emerge,  the  upper  reaches  of  the  beautiful  Lake 
Patzcuaro  (p.  213)  come  into  view  on  the  r.  438  K.  Playa. 
We  skirt  the  shore  of  the  lake  for  several  miles  to  440  K. 
Patzcuaro,  see  below.  For  a continuation  of  the  journey 
see  p.  226. 

40.  Patzcuaro. 

Arrival.  The  straggling  town  lies  about  3 kilom.  to  the  E.  of  the  sta- 
tion, out  of  sight  behind  the  hills.  The  walk  is  a disagreeable  one  and 
the  traveller  will  do  well  to  employ  the  tranvias  ( Empresa  de  Tranvias  de 
Patzcuaro),  which  meet  all  trains;  fare,  10  c.;  time,  20  min.  No  cabs. 
Hotel  runners  meet  all  trains  and  checks  for  luggage  can  be  delivered  to 
them.  Hand-bags  on  the  tram-cars  no  charge.  Trunks,  25c.  The  travel- 
ler will  do  wrell  to  bear  in  mind  that  on  the  return  journey  (from  the 
town  to  the  station)  the  cars  usually  leave  £ hr.  before  the  arrival  of  the 
train.  Their  movements  are  erratic  and  one  should  always  be  prepared 
to  walk,  for  which  considerable  time  is  requisite,  as  the  road  is  cobble- 
paved  and  difficult.  The  straining  mules  pull  the  cars  up  the  long,  stiff 
grade  slowly  and  laboriously.  Cars  pass  the  Plaza  Chica  and  stop  near 
the  Plaza  Grande. 


210  Route  40 . 


PATZCUARO 


Hotels  (comp.p.  xlvii).  Hotel  Mercado,  facing  the  Plaza  Chica.  Spanish 
management  and  cuisine.  Rooms  only  (best  overlook  the  plaza),  75  c.; 
meals,  60  c.  each.  Baths,  25  c.  There  are  several  other  hotels,  among 
which  there  is  no  choice. 

The  Patzcuaro  region  is  becoming  a popular  resort,  and  the  rly.  sells 
excursion  tickets  from  points  as  far  distant  as  Mexico  City7.  Consult  the 
rly.  folders  and  the  newspapers.  A good  hotel,  with  bathing  pavilions 
and  the  usual  attractions  of  a lakeside  resort,  is  needed. 

Patzcuaro  (Tarascan  = “ Place  of  Delights”),  7,180  ft. 
above  sea-level,  with  about  8,000  inhab.,  is  a poor  town,  on 
the  slope  of  a small  range  of  hills,  which  stands  back  from, 
and  overlooks,  the  fine  lake  of  the  same  name.  The  narrow, 
cobble-paved  streets  lead  up  and  down  the  hillsides,  and  the 
houses  that  flank  them  are  quaint  reminders  of  Spanish  Colo- 
nial days.  Most  of  these  houses  are  one  story  with  projecting 
roofs,  supported  by  carved  beams,  which  provide  a sort  of 
overhanging  shelter  for  pedestrians.  Few  Mexican  towns  are 
more  antiquated  or  more  somnolent.  Its  mien  confirms  its 
great  age.  The  portales  look  as  if  the  weight  of  many  centuries 
rested  upon  them.  From  the  adjacent  hills  a fine  viewT  of  the 
town  and  the  lake  can  be  obtained. 

The  Plaza  Principal,  called  also  Plaza  Grande,  to  differentiate 
it  from  the  Plaza  Chica  one  square  to  the  N.,  is  a wide,  un- 
kempt expanse  with  some  corpulent  ash-trees  whose  age 
antedates  that  of  the  oldest  surviving  inhabitant.  The  town 
is  the  metropolis  for  the  Indian  villages  which  stand  on  tlie 
lake  shore,  and  hither  the  Indians  come  with  their  garden 
produce,  fruits  and  wares.  Among  the  latter  are  tiny  bone 
carvings,  crudely  hammered  copper-vessels,  small  work- 
boxes  and  primitive  Indian  curios  and  toys.  The  venders 
always  ask  more  than  they  expect  to  receive.  The  town  is 
supplied  with  water  from  a spring  which,  according  to  tradi- 
tion. gushed  forth  from  a rock  struck  by  Bishop  Quirogo's 
staff.  An  altar  once  stood  above  the  spring,  and  the  staff  is 
preserved  in  the  Morelia  Cathedral.  The  region  roundabout 
is  populated  by  Biscayans  and  Indians.  Fine  chirimoyas 
are  a product. 

Patzcuaro  was  formerly  noted  for  the  production  of  an  exquisite 
feather-work  which  is  described  as  being  “made  of  the  most  beautiful 
and  delicate  feathers,  chiefly  of  the  picaflores  (humming-birds)  which  the 
Indians  called  huitzitzilin.  Several  persons  were  employed  on  each 
painting,  in  the  blending  of  the  colors  and  in  the  arrangement  of  the 
feathers,  as  it  was  a work  requiring  extraordinary  patience  and  nicety7. 
The  sketch  of  the  figure  was  first  made,  and  the  proportions  being 
measured,  each  artist  took  charge  of  one  particular  part  of  the  figure  or  of 
the  drapery.  When  each  had  finished  his  share,  all  the  different  parts 
were  reunited,  to  form  the  picture.  The  feathers  were  first  taken  up  with 
some  soft  substance  with  the  utmost  care,  and  fastened  with  a glutinous 
matter  upon  a piece  of  stuff:  then,  the  different  parts  being  reunited, 
were  placed  on  a plate  of  copper,  and  gently  polished,  till  the  surface 
became  quite  equal,  when  they  appeared  like  the  most  beautiful  paint- 
ings or,  more  beautiful  from  the  splendor  and  liveliness  of  the  colors, 
the  bright  golden,  and  blue,  and  crimson  tints,  than  the  painting  which 
they  imitated.  Many  were  sent  to  Spain,  and  to  different  museums  both 


PATZCUARO  40.  Route . 211 

in  Europe  and  Mexico:  but  the  art  is  now  nearly  lost,  nor  does  it  belong 
to  the  present  utilitarian  age.”1 

La  Colegiata  (formerly  la  Parroquia  del  Carmen ),  on  the 
crest  of  a hill  5 min.  walk  to  the  E.  of  the  Plaza  Chica,  dom- 
inates the  town  and  its  environs  and  is  the  most  historical 
ch.  in  the  place.  When  Patzcuaro  was  founded  (1540)  by 
Vasco  de  Quiroga , the  first  bishop  of  the  See  of  Michoacan, 
the  capital  of  the  newly  conquered  kingdom  was  Tzintzuntzan, 
but  when  the  new  site  was  decided  upon  the  bishop  ordered 
a small  cathedral  to  be  erected  for  the  28  Castilian  families 
and  the  30,000  Tarascans  who  history  says  then  dwelt  in 
the  neighborhood.  The  erection  of  this  cathedral  was  sanc- 
tioned by  a Papal  Bull  of  Julian  III  in  1550.  Albeit  in  1553 
the  Spanish  King  honored  Patzcuaro  with  the  title  of  ciudad , 
and  with  an  escudo  de  armas,  the  Episcopal  See  ( sede ) was 
moved  to  Valladolid  (now  Morelia)  and  with  it  went  the  elab- 
orate plans  for  the  Cathedral.  The  nave  only  was  constructed, 
and  this  is  of  cathedral  proportions.  The  structure  was  badly 
shaken  by  an  earthquake  in  1845,  and  again  joggled  in  1858. 
The  brown  stone  facade,  with  its  huge  wheel  window  and 
niches  with  life-size  figures  of  Saints  Matthew,  Mark,  Luke 
and  John,  is  comparatively  recent.  The  unfinished  tower  im- 
parts a crippled  and  odd  appearance.  The  interior  was  decor- 
ated in  1845  and  again  in  1907.  Just  within  the  doorway 
is  a finely  carved  wood  screen  ( cancel ) — an  excellent  example 
of  early  Spanish  craftsmanship.  The  two  large  paintings 
on  the  r.  and  1.  wall,  near  the  entrance,  the  Holy  Family 
and  the  Assumption  of  the  Virgin , are  the  work  of  Ignacio 
Velasco  (1851)  of  the  Mexico  School.  The  florid  coloring  is  a 
feeble  attempt  to  produce  work  in  the  Murillo  style.  At  one 
of  the  altars  is  a painting  of  the  Virgin  and  Child  with  real 
gold  crowns  and  necklaces  appliqued  on  the  canvas.  Above 
the  entrance  to  the  Capilla  del  Santo  Nino  (1.  of  the  main  en- 
trance) is  a quaint  painting,  La  Madre  Santisima  de  la  Luz , 
unsigned  but  of  undoubted  antiquity.  This  chapel  was  a part 
of  the  original  ch.  The  chapel  opposite  the  old  bautisterio 
contains  a fine  Crisio  Crucified , unsigned  and  undated.  The 
tall  Altar  Mayor  at  the  E.  end  of  the  huge  nave  is  supported 
by  four  great  pillars,  dates  from  1907,  and  was  made  to  re- 
ceive the  much  venerated  image  of  Nuestra  Madre  Santisima 


1 This  ancient  Tarascan  handicraft  has  its  counterpart  in  the  fine 
Cantonese  work  which  is  a specialty  of  the  Province  of  Kwangtung  in 
Southern  China.  From  time  immemorial  the  Cantonese  craftsmen  have 
produced  this  exquisite  bird-wing  enamel,  employing  the  lustrous  coating 
of  the  wings  of  the  blue-jay  and  the  humming-bird.  The  finished  articles 
are  much  prized  by  the  imperial  family  and  by  Mandarins,  by  whom  it  is 
worn  as  jewellery,  especially  hair-ornaments.  It  is  even  more  beautiful 
than  the  productions  of  the  Tarascan  craftsmen,  and  it  would  be  in- 
teresting to  know  from  whom  these  Indians  of  Mexico  obtained  their 
inspiration. 


212  Route  If). 


PATZCUARO 


de  la  Salud  (made  by  the  order  of  Bishop  Quiroga),  which 
formerly  occupied  a sanctuary  in  the  conventual  church  ol 
that  name,  across  the  street  from  the  Church  of  La  Compahia. 
The  Indians  attribute  miraculous  healing  powers  to  this 
image,  and  they  make  long  and  wearisome  pilgrimages  ( pere - 
grinaciones ) to  pray  before  it.  The  Parroquia  was  elevated 
to  the  category  of  a Colegiata  (comp,  p.cxvi)  by  a Papal  edict 
of  Pope  Pius  X,  June  29,  1907,  and  the  image  was  removed 
with  fitting  ceremonies  and  great  rejoicing,  Jan.  8,  1908. 
The  largest  bell  in  the  campanario  has  an  unusually  sweet 
tone  — which  can  be  heard  far  out  on  the  lake. 

The  Church  of  La  Compahia  do  Jesus,  a short  walk  S.  of 
the  Parroquia , and  one  block  E.  of  the  Plaza  Principal , at 
the  top  of  the  Calle  Portugal , contains,  at  the  1.  of  the  high 
altar,  a long  marble  tablet  with  a Latin  inscription  referring 
to  the  life  of  the  good  Bishop  Quiroga } Directly  back  of  this, 
in  a smali  chapel,  is  an  urn  locked  in  a modern  steel  office  safe, 
marked  with  the  bishop’s  name  and  containing  his  ashes. 
Facing  the  niche  in  the  wall  containing  the  safe  is  a small 
altar  with  a quaint  old  painting  of  the  Virgin  and  Child. 
The  ch.  is  dedicated  to  the  Sacred  Heart  of  Jesus. 

The  Church  of  San  Agustin,  facing  the  N.  side  of  the  Plaza 
Chica,  is  interesting  only  in  that  it  is  one  of  the  oldest 
Spanish  foundations  in  the  town.  At  the  other  end  of  the 
street  from  La  Colegiata , to  the  1.  of  the  Plaza , is  the  weather- 
beaten Santuario  de  Nuestra  Sehora  de  Guadalupe , dedicated 
to  that  Virgin.  It  is  uninteresting,  but  from  the  tower  a com- 
manding view  of  the  lake  and  the  countryside  is  to  be  had. 

The  best  view  of  the  town  and  the  lake  is  had  from  El 
Cerro  del  Calvario  (Hill  of  Calvary),  15  min.  walk  (W.)  from 
the  Plaza  Chica.  We  follow  the  street  leading  up  to  the 
Santuario  de  Guadalupe , pass  this  on  the  left  and  proceed  along 
a very  rocky  and  hilly  road  through  the  tawdry  suburbs. 
Near  the  summit  of  the  cerro  is  the  old  Church  of  Calvario , with 
an  uninteresting  interior.  Leading  therefrom  to  the  summit 
is  an  unkempt  road  flanked  by  stone  seats  ( lunetas ) placed 


1 Vasco  de  Quiroga  was  an  eminent  lawyer  who  by  prudence,  tact  and 
benevolence  became  a prominent  figure  in  New  Spain.  The  Emperor, 
Charles  V,  selected  him  to  redeem,  as  far  as  possible,  the  cruelties  in- 
flicted on  the  harmless  Tarascans  by  the  miserable  and  misguided  Nuno 
de  Guzman , and  to  win  back  their  confidence.  At  the  urgent  request  of  his 
sovereign,  Quiroga  took  holy  orders,  was  quickly  raised  through  the 
successive  grades  of  the  priesthood,  was  consecrated  as  a bishop  and 
repaired  to  his  diocese  in  the  Church  of  San  Francisco  in  Tzintzuntzan 
Aug.  22,  1538;  being  then  68  years  old.  By  the  exercise  of  limitless 
patience  and  a host  of  good  works  he  finally  gained  the  confidence  of  the 
Indians,  many  of  whom  he  converted  to  Christianity.  He  died  at  Urua- 
pan  March  14,  1565,  at  the  age  of  96  years.  He  was  to  Michoacan  what 
Fray  Pedro  de  Ganie  was  to  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  and  Bartolome  de  las 
Casas  to  the  Indians  of  Southern  Mexico;  and  his  memory  is  still  fresh 
and  sweet  in  the  hearts  of  the  natives  of  this  region. 


LAKE  PATZCUARO  Jfl.  Route.  213 


in  position  by  the  local  ayuntamienlo . The  view  of  the  lake 
and  the  many  villages  and  islands  which  dot  it  is  very  beguil- 
ing. A good  glass  will  materially  aid  one.  The  hamlets  of 
Santa  Ana , Guecorio,  Xanicho , Eronguaricuaro,  San  Pedro 
and  Taretan  are  visible  to  the  naked  eye.  Tzintzuntzan, 
Quiroga  (pop.  5,000)  and  many  other  smaller  towns  lie  behind 
the  hills  to  the  r.  The  town  on  the  farther  shore,  in  line  with 
the  island  of  Xanicho,  is  Cantabria.  The  hills  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  are  called  C irate,  Buena  Vista,  Cerro  del  Mono, 
C.  de  San  Rafael,  C.  de  la  Oreja,  etc.  The  railway  line  leading 
around  the  base  of  the  hills  extends  to  Uruapan-,  see  p.  227. 

Returning  from  El  Calvario  we  pass  down  between  the  stone 
seats,  leave  the  ch.  on  the  r.,  emerge  from  the  enclosure 
through  a huge  turn-stile  and  follow  the  wide,  cobble-paved 
road  leading  townward  beneath  wide-spreading  elms.  Form- 
erly there  were  14  stations  of  the  Cross  along  this  road,  and 
pilgrims  reached  the  summit  of  the  hill  after  doing  penance 
by  the  wayside.  Certain  of  the  niches  where  these  symbols 
stood  are  still  to  be  seen  let  into  the  houses  which  flank  the 
street.  The  first  from  the  town  is  on  the  wall  of  the  weather- 
beaten Church  of  San  Francisco,  at  the  S.  corner  of  the  ragged 
little  plazuela. 

EXCURSION  FROM  PATZCUARO  TO  LAKE  PATZCUARO. 

A gasoline  launch  plies  for  hire  on  the  lake  and  it  can  be  chartered 
(consult  the  hotel  manager)  by  parties  wishing  to  visit  the  different 
points  of  interest.  Fares  vary  with  the  time  and  the  number  of  persons. 
A bargain  should  be  struck  before  embarking.  Travellers  who  prefer  to 
tour  the  lake  in  one  of  the  Indian  dug-outs  should  come  to  a clear  under- 
standing with  the  owner  of  the  boat  before  starting.  The  Indians  demand 
absurd  prices  and  long  dickering  is  sometimes  necessary  to  bring  them  to 
reason  and  equitable  terms.  The  usual  fare  from  Patzcuaro  to  Tzintzun- 
tzan  (p.  215)  and  return  is  $5  for  the  boat,  irrespective  of  the  number  of 
passengers.  Time  3-6  hrs.,  depending  on  the  weather.  A pair  of  blue 
goggles  and  an  umbrella  are  almost  necessary,  as  during  the  trip  the 
glare  of  the  sun  reflected  on  the  water  is  apt  to  prove  trying,  particularly 
to  weak  eyes.  A stiff  breeze  sometimes  blows  up  in  the  early  afternoon 
and  lasts  till  sundown  and  the  water  is  apt  to  be  choppy.  In  nearly  all 
cases  the  launch  is  preferable.  The  charge  for  a horse  from  Patzcuaro 
to  Tzintzuntzan  and  return  is  SI.  A guide  (necessary)  SI,  and  for  his 
horse  another  $1.  Time  about  3 hrs.  each  way.  The  road  skirts  the  W. 
end  of  the  lake.  The  Indian  boats  usually  hug  the  E.  shore  on  the  out- 
ward voyage.  The  advantage  of  the  boat  trip  lies  in  the  possibility  of 
touching  at  the  small  islands  en  route.  One  also  gets  good  views  of  the 
native  fishermen  who,  armed  with  a pole  and  a net  like  unto  that  of  a 
butterfly-catching  professor,  stand  in  the  stern  of  their  primitive  crafts 
and  dip  out  the  unwary  fish.  A good  pedestrian  will  prefer  to  start  from 
Patzcuaro  early  in  the  morning  and  make  the  round  of  the  lake  on  foot. 
The  going  is  good  and  the  views  inspiring.  A guide  should  always  be 
taken  along.  Tzintzuntzan  stands  on  the  E.  shore,  spread  over  two  low 
hills  near  the  water  edge. 

Lake  Patzcuaro,  6,717  ft.  above  sea-level  (f  of  a mile 
higher  than  the  summit  of  Mt.  Washington),  an  irregular- 
shaped body  of  fresh  water  13  M.  long  from  N.-E.  to  S.-W.  and 


214  Route.  40.  LAKE  PATZCUARO 


30  M.  in  circumference,  is  one  of  the  highest  navigable  lakes 
in  Mexico.  The  shores  are  studded  with  Tarascan  villages, 
20  or  more  standing  directly  on  the  beach.  Chief  among  the 
small  islands  are  Xanicho  (pop.  1,500),  Xaracuaro  (pop.  200), 
Pacanda , Yuyuan,  and  Tecuen.  The  dwellers  on  these  exag- 
gerated cameos  on  a grayish-green  sea  live  much  to  themselves, 
disliking  and  mistrusting  their  neighbors  and  mixing  with 
the  outer  world  as  little  as  possible.  They  paddle  about  the 
lake  in  primitive  log  dug-outs  and  make  their  living  by  fish- 
ing and  hunting  the  wild-fowl  with  which,  in  certain  seasons, 
the  region  abounds.  The  best  fish  - — usually  caught  in  nets  — 
is  the  pescado  bianco.  The  acumeras , tiros  and  other  fish  are 
of  dark  meat  and  not  so  palatable  as  their  white  brethren. 
A product  frequently  seen  in  the  Indian  markets  is  the  sala- 
mander (axolotl,  comp.  p.  500),  of  which  the  natives  are  fond. 
Fishing-trips  can  be  planned  'with  the  aid  of  the  hotel  manage- 
ment in  Patzcuaro.  A dug-out  manned  by  two  or  more  men, 
with  a seating  capacity  for  six  or  more,  can  usually  be  hired 
for  about  So  a day.  The  Indians  will  supply  fishing-tackle. 

The  natives  are  expert  hunters  of  the  wild-fowl  which  haunt 
the  lake.  Some  use  a primitive  throwing-stick  (somewhat 
similar  to  one  used  by  the  Australian  aborigines)  with  a triple- 
pointed  iron  tip  and  a tsipahki  or  launching  sheath,  which  has 
two  holes  for  the  fingers  and  a groove  in  which  the  spear- 
shaft  lies.  At  certain  seasons  — usually  just  prior  to  the 
fiesta  in  honor  of  their  tutelary  saint  — the  Tarascans  plan 
hunting  expeditions,  in  which  fifty  or  more  dug-outs  take 
part;  the  game  sought  being  ducks,  geese  and  widgeons. 
Each  boat,  manned  by  three  or  four  men,  proceeds  toward  a 
spot  in  the  lake  where  the  birds  are  known  to  assemble ; they 
approach  in  the  form  of  a crescent  and  the  fowl  are  concen- 
trated at  a point  near  shore.  At  a given  signal  the  men  rise 
and  hurl  their  barbed  spears  among  the  half-tame  birds.  If 
one  is  hit  the  spear  remains  in  a half-upright  position ; if  not, 
it  floats  on  the  water  and  is  soon  recovered  by  its  owner.  Such 
expeditions  may  last  several  days  and  nights  and  the  meat  of 
the  hundreds  of  birds  secured  is  made  into  savory  tamales. 

Xanicho  Island  is  very  pretty  when  seen  from  the  mainland ; 
near  to  it  is  seen  to  be  rocky  and  somewhat  barren.  The 
guide  shows  a cavern  in  the  rocks  where  Indian  idols  have 
been  found.  These  caves  are  usually  foul  spots,  the  refuge 
of  bats  t'/ nurcielagos ) and  serpents  (serpientes) , and  most  trav- 
ellers will  be  satisfied  with  a peep  in  at  the  entrance.  Scat- 
tered over  the  island  are  fragments  of  idols  and  the  remains  of 
Indian  sanctuaries.  The  small  and  poor  church  of  San  Gero - 
nimo  contains  some  Indian  ornaments  and  votive  offerings, 
tinselly  in  character  and  uninteresting.  Prominent  among 
them  is  a statue  of  the  Virgin  clad  in  a dress  of  Indian  em- 
broidery. Like  most  Indian  churches  this  one  contains  a 


TZINTZUNTZAN  Jfi.  Route.  215 

varied  entomological  congress  which  the  visitor  will  feel  even 
if  he  does  not  see  before  he  quits  it. 

Tzintzuntzan  (pronounced  sin-soon-sari) . an  ancient  Taras - 
can  town  and  one-time  capital  of  the  Tarascan  Empire,  about 
14  M.  across  the  lake  from  the  town  of  Patzcuaro , is  the  show- 
place  of  the  region.  It  is  now  but  a simulacrum  of  its  former 
greatness.  It  at  one  time  extended  over  a distance  of  six  miles 
and  the  remains  of  this  ancient  city  are  still  visible,  in  the 
form  of  yacatas  (mounds),  T-shaped  and  running  from  E. 
to  W.,  on  the  crest  of  a low  ridge  near  the  present  settlement. 
Many  idols  made  of  volcanic  stone  have  been  taken  from  these 
yacatas;  prominent  among  them  a figure  called  Jhuatzio , 
resembling  the  famous  Chac-Mool  (p.  305)  found  by  Dr.  Le 
Plongeon  in  Yucatan.  Other  interesting  relics  were  obsidian 
mirrors,  velvety  black  with  pale  green  veins : the  largest  known 
antiques  of  this  type  have  been  excavated  here. 

The  centre  of  attraction  for  all  who  visit  Tzintzuntzan  is 
the  Parish  Church,  which  contains  a celebrated  painting,  The 
Descent  from  the  Cross  ( Decendimiento  de  la  Cruz),  which  has 
been  variously  attributed  to  Titian,  to  Cabrera,  to  Ibarra  and 
other  noted  painters.  Certain  critics  find  it  very  Titianesque, 
particularly  the  bit  of  landscape  in  the  upper  left-hand  cor- 
ner, and  they  concur  in  thinking  that  it  is  from  the  brush  of 
this  master  or  that  of  a very  adept  pupil.  “ The  drawing  of 
each  figure,  the  gradations  of  light  and  shade,  the  marvellous 
composition,  the  relief  and  the  modelling  of  the  Christ,  the 
low  but  luminous  tones  in  which  it  is  painted,  the  superb  har- 
mony of  these  tones,  all  pronounce  it  the  work  of  a very 
skillful  craftsman.  Though  painted  perhaps  three  centuries  or 
more  ago  the  colors  are  still  fresh,  rich  and  pure.  The  dry 
atmosphere  of  the  region  has  preserved  it  in  an  admirable  way. 
The  picture  is  enclosed  in  a splendid  carved  frame,  about  15 
ft.  long  by  6 ft.  wide.  It  contains  eleven  figures,  all  life-size. 
On  a hill  are  three  crosses  in  relief  against  an  orange  sky.  In 
the  lower  left  hand  is  Mary  Magdalen  seated  on  the  ground 
contemplating  the  nails  and  the  crown  of  thorns.  The  figure 
of  Christ  supported  in  a sheet  is  carried  to  the  tomb  — a dark 
cavern  in  the  rear.  Two  men,  Joseph  and  Nicodemus,  hold  the 
sheet  and  support  the  head  and  the  feet.  Aiding  also  in  this 
tender  office  is  a woman,  the  Holy  Virgin,  her  head  bowed 
over  the  dead  Christ.”  Other  prominent  figures  in  the  back- 
ground are  Si.  John  the  Baptist,  a figure  believed  to  be  St. 
Peter,  and  one,  at  the  extreme  right,  thought  to  be  Philip  II, 
King  of  Spain. 

The  subject  was  a favorite  one  with  the  great  Titian,  who  in  turn  was  a 
favorite  with  his  royal  patron,  Felipe  II.  The  glorious  voluntary  on  can- 
vas, in  the  Museo  Nacional  de  Pintura  y Escultura  at  Madrid,  was  painted 
expressly  for  Philip  by  Titian  when  the  latter  was  in  his  82d  year.  It  is 
quite  within  the  range  of  probability  that  the  King  either  ordered  this 


216  Route  40. 


TZINTZUNTZAN 


picture  painted  expressly  for  Bishop  Quiroga  or  selected  it  from  one  of 
the  40  splendid  Titians  in  the  royal  collection.  Certain  critics  believe  it 
was  painted  for  the  occasion,  which  accounts  for  the  King’s  appearance 
in  the  group.  According  to  the  sacristan  many  offers  have  been  made 
for  it;  one  of  50,000  pesos,  but  the  Indian  parishioners  refused  to  sanction 
its  removal. 

Mr.  Baxter  differs  with  the  many  critics  who  pronounce  the  picture  a 
Titiano.  He  says:  “A  comparison  of  the  picture  with  others  by  Titian, 
particularly  that  of  the  Entombment  at  Madrid  and  that  of  the 
Louvre,  indicates  a style  very  different  from  that  of  the  great  Italian. 
In  composition,  it  has  no  resemblance  to  the  Madrid  work,  but  it  appears 
to  have  something  in  common  with  that  of  the  Louvre,  suggesting  a 
reversal,  as  in  a mirror,  of  the  latter  picture.  In  characterization,  how- 
ever, it  is  radically  different  from  these  and  other  sacred  subjects  from 
the  hand  of  Titian.  It  manifestly  lacks  the  intense  emotionalism,  the 
impassioned  movement,  of  the  Titian  compositions.  It  is  distinguished 
by  great  tenderness,  a lofty  reverence,  and  a sublimation  of  emotion 
under  a realizing  sense  of  the  spiritual  significance  of  the  event.  This 
mood  is  very  unlike  that  which  induces  the  vivid  action  customary  in 
Titian’s  figures — as  instanced  in  the  frenzied  grief  of  the  Saint  John  in 
the  Louvre  Entombment  and  the  chastened,  prayerful  sorrow  of  the  be- 
loved disciple  in  this  work.  The  style,  on  the  whole,  seems  more  that 
of  some  Spanish  master.  The  realistic  Spanish  spirit,  however,  as  it  in- 
forms the  dramatic  naturalism  of  a wrork  like  the  Entombment  of  Ribera , 
does  not  distinctively  inspire  this  painting.” 

It  is  customary  to  leave  a small  sum  for  charity  with  the  padre  who 
shows  the  picture.  50  c.  for  one  person  or  a peso  for  3 or  4 is  ample. 
Not  obligatory. 

Facing  the  entrance  to  the  Pcirroquia  is  a huge  stone  cross 
around  which  the  Indians  assembled  to  be  baptized  when  they 
embraced  the  Christian  faith  at  the  time  of  the  Conquest. 
Some  quaint,  half-obliterated  epitaphs  are  to  be  seen  in  the 
old  burying-ground.  In  the  ruinous  temple  of  La  Soledad  is 
a niche  adorned  with  ebony,  tortoise-shell  and  silver.  In 
El  Hospital , which  was  the  second  temple  to  be  erected  in  the 
town,  are  some  very  old  images  and  a pulpit  whence  the  bishop 
Vasco  de  Quiroqa  expounded  the  teachings  of  the  Catholic 
Church  to  the  listening  Indians  four  hundred  years  ago.  In 
the  “Little  Street  of  the  Magdalen”  are  the  ruins  of  an  old 
Franciscan  convent,  closed  in  1740.  Above  the  entrance 
to  the  old  cloister,  and  the  tangled  garden  beyond,  is  the 
inscription  / Dios  Santo , Dios  Fuerte , Dios  Inmortal!  On 
sections  of  the  crumbling  wall  are  fragments  of  mural  paint- 
ings. Hard  by  is  an  orchard  of  gnarled  and  decrepit  olive- 
trees  ( olivos ),1  perhaps  the  oldest  on  the  continent  and  planted 
by  the  nuns  and  monks  of  the  first  convent  founded  here.  The 
dilapidated  cells  which  sheltered  the  long  dead  devotees  can 
still  be  traced  amid  the  ruins.  Note  the  quaint  custom  of 
hanging  the  church-bells  in  the  trees,  to  prevent  their  being 
tumbled  down  and  broken  by  earthquakes. 

Iguatzio,  a somnolent  Indian  pueblo  adjacent  to  Tzintzun- 
tzan,  is  connected  therewith  by  a causeway  made  by  the  In- 


1 “ The  olive-tree,  however  classical , is  very  unpicturesque ; its  ashy  leaf 
on  a pollarded  trunk  reminds  one  of  a second-rate  willow,  while  it  affords 
neither  shade,  shelter  nor  colour.” 


History . 


PURAPECHA  INDIANS  Ifl.  Route.  217 


dians  before  the  Conquest.  Many  historic  ruins  are  scattered 
along  it,  and  from  them  have  been  taken  Indian  weapons, 
household  utensils,  idols  and  whatnot.  The  Plaza  de  Armas 
occupies  the  one-time  site  of  a great  Indian  teocalli  (p.  clxvii) 
demolished  by  the  Spanish  friars.  Two  subterranean  passage- 
ways, w'alled  with  timber,  run  beneath  the  plaza , but  they 
remain  unexplored.  A similar  passage  was  opened  in  Tzin- 
tzuntzan  in  1855,  but  the  Indians  refused  to  permit  exploring 
parties  to  enter  and  they  promptly  filled  in  the  tunnel.  The 
Iguatzio  underground  road  is  supposed  to  be  a continuation 
of  that  of  Tzintzuntzan. 

The  History  of  Michoacan,  and  particularly  that  of  the 
Lake  Patzcuaro  region,  is  closely  linked  with  the  annals  of 
the  Purapecha  Indians , commonly  called  the  Tarascos.  The 
origin  of  this  tribe  is  shrouded  in  mystery,  though  involved 
in  that  of  the  North-American  Indians  who  centuries  ago 
swarmed  away  from  the  parent  race  and  moved  southward  to, 
and  across,  the  great  plains  of  Mexico.  This  branch  of  the 
many  peoples  emanating  from  that  mysterious  source  was 
greeted  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Patzcuaro  by  clouds  of  scintillat- 
ing humming-birds,  golden,  copper  and  crimson  tinted,1  many 
of  which  are  still  to  be  seen  about  the  old  town  of  Tzintzuntzan. 
The  wise  men  immediately  took  counsel  among  themselves 
and  announced  to  their  followers  that  the  beautiful  creatures 
had  spoken  to  them  in  their  ancient  tongue,  advising  them 
that  they  were  the  spirits  of  their  tutelary  gods  assembled 
to  command  that  a great  Tarascan  city  should  be  built  there 
and  that  the  spot  should  henceforth  become  the  home  of  their 
nation.  According  to  Prescott  (vol.  iii,  appendix,  p.  364)  the 
“ Tarascans  have  a tradition  that  Tezpi,  their  Noah , escaped 
from  the  great  flood  in  a boat  filled  with  various  kinds  of 
animals  and  birds.  After  some  time,  a vulture  was  sent  out, 
but  remained  feeding  on  the  dead  bodies  of  the  giants,  which 
had  been  left  on  the  earth,  as  the  waters  subsided.  The 
little  humming-bird,  huitzitzilin,  was  then  sent  forth  and 
returned  with  a twig  in  its  mouth.  The  coincidence  of  this 
account  with  the  Hebrew  and  Chaldean  narratives  is  obvious.” 

When  the  Spaniards  first  visited  the  district  (1522)  Tzin- 
tzuntzan contained  40,000  inhabitants  and  it  was  the  capital 
of  the  vast  kingdom  of  Michoacan.  The  people  employed  in 
their  daily  lives  arts  and  sciences  unknown  to  many  other 
tribes  inhabiting  New  Spain.  Conspicuous  among  their  manual 
arts  was  that  of  making  beautiful  pictures  by  cunningly 
attaching  the  resplendent  plumage  of  the  wings  of  the  hum- 


1 There  are  over  50  kinds  of  humming-birds  in  Mexico,  differing  in 
color  and  shape  and  forming  a chromatic  scale  of  brilliant  tints,  running 
from  se^-green  through  bluish-green  to  emerald,  and  from  the  lightest 
straw  color  to  the  deepest  scarlet  and  fiery  red.  Many  of  these  beautiful 
little  feathered  sprites  haunt  the  honeysuckle-bowers  of  Mexico’s  capital. 


21S  Route  40.  TARASCAN  INDIANS 


ming-birds  to  a fabric  formed  of  maguey  fibre  (p.  210).  “The 
Conquistador es  were  amazed  to  find  that  many  of  these  pic- 
tures represented  a supernatural  Virgin,  to  which  Purapeclia 
legends  refer.” 

To  this  Indian  stronghold  Cortes  sent  his  gold-seeking  em- 
issaries. The  Tarascans  had  ever  been  a proud  and  virile 
race  — in  contradistinction  to  the  servile  tribes  in  other  parts 
of  Mexico  — and  when  the  inhuman  Nuno  de  Guzman  (presi- 
dent of  the  first  Audiencia ) led  an  army  of  10,000  men  into  the 
territory  of  Calzontzin,  the  Tarascan  Cacique,  he  met  with  a 
stout  and  unexpected  resistance.  In  time  the  chieftain  was 
captured,  and  in  order  to  wring  treasure  from  him  Guzman 
had  him  burned  to  death  over  a slow  fire,  beside  torturing 
many  of  the  head  men  of  the  nation.  Maddened  with  terror 
at  the  barbarous  methods  of  the  white  men,  the  Indians  fled 
to  the  adjacent  mountains  and  scattered  through  the  con- 
tiguous states  of  Jalisco , Guerrero  and  Guanajuato.  Despite 
the  earnest  efforts  of  the  good  Bishop  Quiroga  they  never 
regained  complete  trust  in  the  alien.  A few  returned  to  the 
old  city,  but  the  bulk  of  the  nation  settled  in  the  Sierra  de  las 
Tarascos  (State  of  Michoacan),  where  their  unmixed  descend- 
ants now  dwell.  The  Indians  of  the  mountains  are  very  shy 
and  quickly  retire  into  the  house  when  a stranger  approaches. 
They  still  nurse  an  ineradicable  dislike  for  foreigners,  par- 
ticularly white  men.  Some  of  the  characteristics  of  the  tribes 
are  peculiar  and  interesting. 

Craftsmanship:  The  early  Tarascos  were  expert  builders 
in  stone,  excellent  .metal-workers,  and  were  noted  for  their 
fine  woven  cloths.  Some  very  good  curios  of  the  old  workman- 
ship are  occasionally  met  with  in  the  Tarasco  country;  chief 
among  these  are  hardened  copper,  and  silver  and  gold  bells, 
for  which  the  district  and  the  tribe  are  noted.  These  trinkets 
were  made  usually  in  the  form  of  turtles,  hollow  and  with 
little  balls  inside.  They  were  used  as  rattles,  and  are  provided 
with  a loop  on  the  under  side,  by  which  they  were  attached 
to  the  wearer’s  leg.  The  pieces  are  usually  of  soldered  wire 
and  filigree,  highly  prized  because  of  their  splendid  workman- 
ship and  rarity.  Small  copper  bells,  exquisitely  wrought,  are 
sometimes  unearthed:  they  are  made  as  American  Indian 
pottery  often  is,  on  the  principle  of  coiling  a rope  of  clay. 

The  tribe  is  credited  with  having  possessed  the  secret  of 
tempering  copper,  which,  tradition  avers,  was  handed  down 
by  word  of  mouth,  by  the  ancients,  along  with  the  belief  that 
whosoever  should  reveal  it  to  an  outsider  would  meet  a dis- 
tressful death  at  the  hands  of  the  gods.  That  they  were  ex- 
traordinarily clever  in  this  line  is  shown  by  the  tempered  cop- 
per axes  and  implements  found  near  Jilotlan.  Many  curious 
specimens  of  hardened  copper  have  been  found  in  the  ancient 
tombs  scattered  throughout  the  state.  One  of  the  chief  in- 


TARASCAN  INDIANS  Jfl.  Route . 219 


dustries  at  present  is  indigo  dyeing.  Because  of  this,  many 
of  the  Tarascos  carry  blue  finger-nails  and  they  are  called 
Tecos  (finger-nails)  by  their  neighbors.  The  product  of  their 
primitive  looms  is  a species  of  blue  rebozo  (shawl)  with  a silken 
border  into  which  bird  and  animal  designs  are  woven.  The 
most  desirable  come  from  the  village  of  Paracho.  Prices  vary 
with  quality;  $10  to  $20  should  secure  a fine  specimen. 
Paracho  is  also  renowned  for  dainty  little  inlaid  toy  guitars 
(about  four  inches  long)  with  mother-of-pearl  and  bone  insets; 
to  be  found  in  most  of  the  curio-stores  throughout  the  Republic. 
The  Tarascos  make  attractively  decorated  but  very  friable 
pottery  in  the  shape  of  bowls,  pitchers,  vases  and  a variety 
of  cooking-utensils  (comp.  lxx). 

The  present-day  Tarascos  lack  the  skill  of  their  progenitors, 
albeit  they  are  an  industrious  lot.  Each  of  their  districts  is 
renowned  for  some  specialty.  Parangaricutiro  produces 
counterpanes;  Uruapan  (p.  227)  is  notedforits  Tarasco lacquer- 
ware,  and  near  Patzcuaro  (p.  209)  the  native  energy  expends 
itself  in  the  making  of  dug-out  canoes.  The  modern  ceramic 
souvenirs  are  of  little  value. 

The  commercial  idea  is  well  developed  and  itinerant 
Tarascan  pedlars  travel  hundreds  of  miles,  to  distant  cities, 
to  sell  the  pottery  made  by  them.  Time  was  when  these 
ambulating  merchants  carried  their  wares,  pickaback,  as 
far  north  as  New  Mexico  and  southward  to  Guatemala.  From 
their  stronghold  the  Tarascans  tramp  to  Mexico  City,  250  M. 
distant,  carrying  huge  crates  of  pottery,  inlaid  toy  guitars, 
wooden  spoons,  bowls,  chocolate  whirlers  (molinillos) , blankets, 
rope  made  from  maguey  fibre,  Uruapan  platters  and  cages  of 
semi-tropical  birds.  They  return  filled  with  pulque  and  laden 
with  cotton  cloth  and  German  gewgaws.  On  long  journeys, 
which  often  consume  months  of  time,  they  live  on  scanty  fare, 
walk  twice  as  far  as  would  a loaded  mule  and  carry  crates 
weighing  from  100  to  150  lbs.  From  $5  to  $12  is  considered  a 
good  profit  for  a month’s  trip. 

Characteristics:  The  Tarascan  is  small  of  stature,  but 
agile  and  quick  of  movement.  Contrary  to  the  usual  Indian 
custom  the  men  wear  beards  and  moustaches.  They  are 
frugal,  even  in  the  use  of  water.  A man  bathes  once  a year, 
a woman  once  a week.  When  th$  native  rises  in  the  morning 
he  washes  his  feet  and  face  in  a wooden  trough  kept  for  the 
purpose.  The  operation  is  distasteful  to  him,  but  it  is  achieved 
because  of  its  religious  import.  The  Tarasco  lacks  the  North- 
American  Indian  attribute  of  stoicism,  and  possesses  a de- 
cidedly choleric  temperament,  being  easy  to  offend  and  quick 
to  show  anger.  When  in  a fury  he  is  violent  and  unmanage- 
able. The  weapon  usually  employed  in  a disagreement  is  an 
oak  stick,  like  a shillelah.  This  he  always  carries,  using  it  as  a 
cane,  until  circumstance  calls  it  into  play  for  other  purposes. 


220  Route  40.  TARASCAN  INDIANS 


With  strangers  he  is  polite,  but  never  servile.  The  early 
T arascos  were  warlike  and  enduring  and  were  expert  archers. 
Their  war  implements  were  made  of  tempered  copper  and 
obsidian  ( Obsidianus  lapis)  and  from  this  volcanic  glass 
they  also  manufactured  “ flutes  which  could  imitate  the  songs 
of  birds,  the  roar  of  the  tiger  or  the  hissing  of  the  serpent.” 
Their  paper  was  made  from  the  bast  of  the  fig-tree  ( Ficus 
carica)  and  the  pigment  used  in  the  dyeing  of  their  fabrics 
was  extracted  from  the  many  plants  which  grow  in  their  semi- 
tropic habitat.  The  dyes  are  fast,  and  textiles  made  by  the 
T arascos  are  much  prized  on  that  account.  The  average 
Tarasco  is  musical,  and  composers  of  no  mean  ability  are 
found  among  the  tribe.  Every  village  possesses  its  “ string 
band,”  the  music  of  which  is  sad  and  plaintive.  Rag-time 
tunes  and  others  of  a lively  nature  are  unpopular.  Many  of 
the  songs  are  erotic,  and  are  (according  to  a Mexican  author- 
ity) composed  by  the  old  women  of  the  tribe.  Before  the 
Spaniards  introduced  cross-breeding  the  Tarascans  were 
called  (by  Beaumont , the  old  Michoacan  chronicler)  the  finest 
looking  of  all  the  Indian  races.  Curiously  enough,  the  more 
they  intermarry  with  the  wThites  the  darker  they  grow. 

Customs  : If  a Tarasco  does  not  marry  when  he  is  young  he 
finds  some  difficulty  later  in  securing  a wife  — the  girls  are 
suspicious  lest  something  prevented  him  from  marrying 
when  they  considered  it  time  for  him  to  do  so.  Courtship  is 
carried  on  at  the  fountain  or  at  the  spring  whence  the  girls 
bring  water.  The  lover  asks  his  dulcinea  for  a drink  of  water 
and  if  she  hands  him  a dipper-full  he  may  take  courage  and 
press  his  suit.  Marriages  are  contracted  after  a brief  wooing. 
A popular  love-charm  is  the  dried  little  finger  of  some  dead 
person.  Like  the  rabbit-foot  of  the  Southern  (U.  S.  A.)  Negro, 
it  is  supposed  to  ward  off  evil  influences  and  to  scratch  at  the 
door  of  the  heart  of  the  adored  one.  The  men  never  fight 
among  themselves  for  any  one  woman.  Near  Palzcuaro  the 
following  custom  is  practised: 

A lover  who  believes  his  passion  is  reciprocated  meets  his 
lady-love  at  the  spring,  catches  hold  of  her  rebozo  and  refuses 
to  let  go  until  she  says  “ yes.”  When  this  concession  is  obtained 
he  draws  forth  a stick  which  he  has  hidden  beneath  his  blan- 
ket and  smashes  the  jar  of  water  (which  she  carries  on  her 
head)  so  that  the  contents  fall  over  her.  Her  girl  friends  (who 
have  been  concealed  in  the  adjacent  bushes)  remove  all  her 
clothes,  even  to  her  imitation  coral  necklace,  and  from  their 
own  persons  fit  her  out  with  another  dress  and  a new  jar 
in  which  she  can  carry  water  home.  Her  delighted  swain 
appropriates  her  wet  garments  and  later  sells  them  to  her 
father  at  the  rate  of  six  centavos  for  each  piece.  The  next 
day  he  deposits  a load  of  wood  outside  the  door  of  her  house 
and  goes  away.  He  returns  three  days  later  and  if  he  finds 


TARASCAN  INDIANS  Jfl.  Route.  221 


that  the  wood  has  been  accepted  he  knows  that  his  sweet- 
heart will  follow  him  home.  Once  there  he  returns  her  father’s 
money  and  presents  his  bride  with  a bouquet  of  flowers  in 
which  yellow  is  the  predominant  color. 

A bride’s  good  qualities  are  sometimes  tested  by  opening 
a bee’s  nest  before  her  face;  if  she  shrinks  she  does  not  pos- 
sess the  fortitude  which  matrimony  requires.  Her  virginity 
is  a matter  of  much  speculation  among  the  townspeople,  and 
a post-nuptial  test,  sometimes  very  trying  in  its  revelations, 
follows  marriage.  All  the  local  wags  prepare  lampoons  and 
the  village  folks  await  the  test  with  fear  and  doubt.  If  she 
proves  not  to  have  possessed  Eve’s  frailty,  she  is  shown 
great  attentions,  chocolate  is  offered  her,  the  people  revel  in 
dancing  and  eating  and  the  relieved  husband  is  the  object  of 
sincere  congratulations. 

If  she  proves  other  than  a wats  (virgin)  woe  invades  the 
community:  the  feasting  is  postponed,  the  fire  is  extinguished 
and  the  guests  set  out  for  their  homes  sad  and  angry,  but  not 
before  they  have  destroyed  all  the  bride’s  wedding-gifts, 
which  consist  usually  of  pottery.  The  lot  of  the  bride  — never 
a pleasant  one  — is  made  doubly  hard,  and  she  is  the  victim 
of  waggish  jokes  and  is  twitted  by  her  friends  with  her  fall 
from  grace.  This  continues  until  motherhood  falls  upon  her. 

The  women  become  mothers  when  very  young  and  there- 
after they  lose  their  girlish  charm.  Six  children  is  the  usual 
number  for  a married  couple.  Infants  are  carried  on  their 
mother’s  back,  held  up  by  the  rebozo. 

When  a Tarasco  is  ill  his  friends  resort  to  the  Aztec  prac- 
tice of  “ untwisting”  him.  Bunches  of  a dozen  cords  of  differ- 
ent colors,  wound  with  pieces  of  reed,  are  brought  in,  the  feet 
of  the  sick  man  are  fastened  to  the  floor  and  he  is  stroked  from 
head  to  foot  with  the  cords.  In  former  times  women  were 
specially  appointed  to  “disentangle”  dying  persons. 

The  common  beverage  of  the  people  is  supplied  by  a bush 
which  grows  on  the  mountain  slopes  and  uplands.  From  its 
leaves  is  extracted  a kind  of  tea  similar  in  taste  to  certain  of 
the  Chinese  teas.  The  plant  bears  a relation  to  the  Brazilian 
Holly  ( Ilex  Paraguensis)  used  extensively  in  South  America 
for  preparing  a beverage  similar  to  tea.  An  infusion  of  the 
dried  leaves  placed  in  boiling  water  produces  a concoction 
which  the  natives  believe  aids  the  digestion  and  soothes  the 
nerves.  The  dried  leaves  can  be  kept  indefinitely  without 
losing  their  quality.  The  women  of  the  tribe  prize  it  as  an 
emmenagogue. 

A favorite  Tarasco  sport  is  bull-riding  — a mild  form  of 
bull-baiting.  A bull  is  lassoed  and  thrown  and  while  down 
the  Indian  mounts  him.  A strap  or  lariat  is  tied  round  the 
animal’s  body  and  to  this  the  rider  clings.  When  the  bull 
rises  he  bucks  and  attempts  to  gore  his  rider  who,  in  some 


222  Route  40.  TARASCAN  INDIANS 


cases,  is  much  in  the  position  of  a man  riding  a tiger  — will- 
ing to  get  off  but  unable  to.  The  spectacle  provides  excite- 
ment, and  a little  danger,  for  the  spectators. 

All  the  Tarascos  worship  idols,  and  every  farmer  has  one 
or  more  buried  in  his  field.  They  are  considered  the  guardians 
of  the  crops.  Despite  their  idolatrous  instincts  and  practices 
they  are  fervid  Catholics,  sometimes  making  long  pilgrimages 
on  their  bare  knees  to  religious  shrines.  Many  Indians  come 
to  these  spots  clad  in  the  grotesque  garments  of  buffoons  — 
wearing  crowns  of  gilded  and  bespangled  card-board  on  their 
heads.  Some  wear  bits  of  ancient  armor,  bells  and  masks; 
others  come  clad  in  the  queer  habiliments  of  their  forefathers, 
adorned  with  symbols  which  relate  to  their  ancient  rites. 
At  the  head  of  a group  of  these  pilgrims  is  carried  a wooden 
box  with  a glass  front,  through  which  is  visible  the  special  saint 
of  the  community.  As  the  procession  passes  crowds  rush 
up  to  kiss  the  box.  Grotesque  dances  are  performed  before 
the  church  door,  and  many  of  the  women  weep  and  become 
exhausted  through  excitement.  On  such  occasions  Mexican 
pickpockets  reap  a rich  harvest  from  those  who  do  not  carry 
their  money  in  their  shoes.  This  pretext  of  adoring  the  Cath- 
olic images  covers  a devotion  to  their  ancient  tutelary  gods. 
In  the  Tarasco  country  20  or  more  of  these  feasts  occur  an- 
nually: each  lasts  8 days  or  more. 

The  folk-lore  is  extensive  and  curious.  The  forefathers  of 
the  present  tribe  worshipped  the  Southern  Cross  (Spanish  — 
Cruz  de  Maria).  The  Sun  is  “Our  Father  Sun,”  and  if  a lie 
is  told  he  hears  it.  Business  is  never  transacted  after  sun- 
set as  the  Sun  cannot  hear  the  agreement  and  one  is  likely 
to  be  cheated.  An  eclipse  terrorizes  the  Indians,  who  believe 
that  the  two  celestial  bodies  are  devouring  each  other.  Hare- 
lip is  supposed  to  follow  an  eclipse  and  to  be  caused  by  one. 
If  a pregnant  woman  looks  at  the  eclipse  (a  common  belief 
among  Mexicans)  the  child  will  be  marked  — perhaps  with 
the  figure  of  a rabbit-  A woman  who  expects  to  become  a 
mother  must  not  carry  salt,  pepper  or  lime,  or  the  child  will 
become  deaf  and  blind.  Certain  Indians  are  supposed  to  pos- 
sess the  power  of  bewitching  one,  and  others  travel  long  dis- 
tances to  consult  them  and  learn  this  art.  If  strangers  caress 
Tarascan  children  the  parents  believe  evil-eve  will  result. 
They  prefer  to  have  strangers  abuse  them.  All  the  illnesses 
of  children  result  from  the  evil-eye.  To  avoid  this  the  red 
feather  of  a woodpecker  is  sometimes  stuck  in  the  child’s 
hair,  and  red  strings  are  tied  around  its  ankle — the  red  blurs 
the  sorcerer’s  sight.  Death  is  believed  to  follow  photographing. 

San  Mateo  (St.  Matthew)  is  the  chosen  saint  of  certain  of 
the  small  tribes,  and  he  is  made  responsible  for  the  weather 
and  the  crops.  If  it  freezes,  his  image  is  taken  from  the  church 
and  immersed  in  cold  water  — so  that  he  may  realize  how 


TARASCO  RUINS 


40.  Route.  223 


it  feels  to  be  cold.  If  warm  weather  obtains  he  is  feted,  and 
brandy  and  Indian  comestibles  are  set  before  him. 

The  ancient  Tarascans  flattened  the  head  by  binding  it, 
and  filed  the  teeth  to  represent  swallow-tails.  The  femur  bones 
of  enemies  taken  in  battle  were  notched  and  then  made  into 
musical  instruments. 

Many  of  the  Tarascan  women  of  the  interior  villages  still 
wear  the  tribal  dress:  a combination  of  the  rebozo  and  a skirt 
(which  weighs  about  20  lbs.)  made  of  a long  strip  of  cloth, 
pleated  all  round  and  held  at  the  waist  with  an  artistically 
woven  girdle.  They  are  inordinately  fond  of  red-coral  and 
imitation  necklaces.  (For  other  interesting  data  referring  to 
the  Tarascos , consult  Unknown  Mexico,  by  Carl  Lumholtz.) 

Some  interesting  Ruins  lie  within  the  Tarasco  country, 
near  the  town  of  Zacapu  (place  of  stones).  In  the  absence  of 
railways  one  must  penetrate  the  district  afoot  or  on  horse- 
back. Indian  guides  are  always  obtainable  at  the  nearest 
town  ( Cheran ).  The  locality  is  a hunter’s  paradise,  as  the 
lagoons  swarm  with  ducks  — rarely  hunted  — and  the  foot- 
hills with  minor  game.  The  pine-clad  peak  of  Tecolote  is  the 
dominating  feature  of  the  immediate  neighborhood.  Near  this 
(W.  of  Zacapu)  on  a ridge  500  ft.  high  are  the  ruins  of  a pa- 
lacio  or  fortress  of  the  Tarasco  King  Calzontzin,  with  no  record 
of  the  date  of  their  erection.  They  lie  along  an  esplanade 
formed  by  extending  the  top  of  a hill  to  a length  of  130  yards 
and  with  a width  of  half  that  number.  The  masonry  consists 
of  chunks  of  lava  put  together  without  mortar.  The  esplan- 
ade is  100  ft.  high  in  some  places,  but  where  the  fortress  ap- 
proaches the  highest  points  of  the  natural  elevation,  and 
would  accordingly  be  easy  of  access,  a long  wall  was  raised. 
Traces  of  this  are  yet  visible.  In  the  vicinity,  especially 
to  the  W.  of  the  ridge,  numerous  square  or  rectangular 
yacatas  (tombs)  are  located.  The  old  lava  flow  of  this  dis- 
trict (known  as  mat  pais)  extends  northward  for  many  miles. 
It  provided  building  stones  for  the  ancients  and  along  its 
edge  are  many  fortifications  and  yacatas.  Similar  monuments 
of  antiquity  are  encountered  for  a stretch  of  30  or  more  miles 
toward  the  N.  of  Zacapu , as  far  as  San  Antonio  Corupo  (Burnt 
on  the  Surface).  Many  curious  relics  of  the  early  tribes  have 
been  found  in  this  district;  among  them  some  excellent 
terra-cotta  bowls,  decorated  in  red  and  white. 

Cheran  (Zacapu  is  one  day’s  journey  on  horseback  to  the 
N.-E.)  lies  in  the  centre  of  the  district  and  is  the  starting- 
point  for  the  ruins.  It  is  an  Indian  town  (pop.  8,000  Indios 
and  about  40  Mex.)  picturesquely  situated  on  a high,  sunny 
slope  among  the  mountains.  The  thrifty  Indians  will  provide 
lodgings  (of  a kind)  and  food  and  guides.  Living  is  cheap. 
Fowls,  egg,  and  grain  always  obtainable.  The  natives  live 
in  primitive  wooden  houses  and  practise  many  quaint  customs. 


224  Route  40.  STATE  OF  MICHOACAN 


Michoacan  de  Ocampo,  one  of  the  Mexican  Estados  del 
Pacifico,  a rich  and  beautiful  region  with  a pop.  of  931,000 
and  a superficial  area  of  52,261  sqr.  kilom.,  is  divided  politi- 
cally into  15  distritos  and  many  municipalidades . It  derives  its 
name  from  an  Indian  ( Tarascan ) vocable  signifying  “ place  of 
the  fishes  ” ( lugar  del  pescado) ; the  name  Ocampo  was  added 
to  it  to  honor  the  memory  of  an  illustrious  patriot,  Don 
Melchor  Ocampo.  It  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  State  of 
Guanajuato  (p.  145) ; on  the  E.  by  Mexico  (p.  198)  and  Quere- 
taro  (p.  119);  on  the  S.  and  S.-E.  by  Guerrero  (p.  460)  and 
the  Occano  Pacifico  (coast-line  163  kilom.)  and  on  the  W. 
by  Jalisco  (p.  1S1).  The  capital  city,  Morelia , is  described  at 

p.  202. 

The  general  character  of  the  state  is  mountainous,  with 
plains  and  valleys  that  are  immensely  rich  in  vegetation. 
The  Sierra  Madre  range  traverses  the  region  from  S.-E.  to 
N.-W.  and  lateral  ranges  break  the  territory  in  almost  every 
direction.  The  highest  mountain  is  El  Pico  de  Tancitaro 
(12,653  ft.  and  frequently  snow-covered)  in  the  Uruapan 
district.  Other  notable  peaks  are  El  Cerro  de  Patamban 
(12,500  ft.),  between  Uruapan  (p.  227)  and  Zamora  (p.  149); 
the  C.  del  Z irate  (11,130  ft.)  in  the  distrito  de  Purudiuiiro;  the 
Pico  de  Quinceo  (11,000  ft.)  in  the  distrito  de  Morelia , and 
Tarimangacho  (10,000)  in  the  Sierra  de  Tlalpujahua.  In  the 
distrito  de  Ario , E.  of  an  hacienda  known  as  Tejamaml , is  a 
vast  volcanic  region  called  Mat  Pais  — Bad  Lands.  From 
the  centre  of  this  rises  the  smoking  volcano  of  Jorullo 
( Tarascan , “ paradise  ”),  one  of  the  most  interesting  peaks 
in  the  Republic.  Until  1759  the  Jorullo  region  was  a rich 
farming  district.  In  Sept,  of  that  year  subterranean  noises 
made  themselves  heard,  then  a violent  explosion  occurred 
and  the  present  volcano  rose  1,700  ft.  above  its  surroundings, 
and  excited  the  wonder  of  the  civilized  world.  Baron  Alex- 
ander Von  Humboldt  visited  the  district  44  years  later  and  made 
an  exhaustive  report  of  the  catastrophe.  Numerous  fuma - 
roles,  called  hornitos  (little  ovens),  dot  the  environing  country; 
smoke  and  vapor  issue  almost  continually  from  the  crater, 
and  the  district  for  miles  around  is  one  of  almost  constant 
volcanic  activity. 

The  Rio  Lerma , R.  de  las  Balsas  and  the  R.  Coahuayana 
— which  latter  serves  as  the  boundary-line  between  Michoa- 
can and  Colima  — are  the  chief  features  of  the  River  System. 
Owing  to  the  mountainous  character  of  the  state  the  rivers 
form  many  falls  and  cascades,  some  of  them  very  beautiful. 
The  Cascadade  Tzararacua  (p.  229),  near  the  town  of  Uruapan , 
is  one  of  the  most  celebrated  in  the  Republic.  The  state  is 
renowned  for  its  beautiful  lakes  (logos) ; the  largest  is  Chapala 
(described  at  p.  151)  on  the  dividing-line  between  Michoacan 
and  Jalisco , at  the  W.  Next  in  size  and  beauty  is  the  pictur- 


STATE  OF  MICHOACAN  40.  Route.  225 


esque  Lago  de  Patzcuaro  (p.  213)  in  the  districts  of  Morelia  (p. 
202)  and  Zinapecuaro.  Patzcuaro  is  to  Mexicans  what  Killar- 
ney  is  to  the  Irish.  Another  charming  lake  is  Cuitzeo  (10  M. 
long  by  6 M.  broad)  mentioned  at  p.  201.  Pescado  bianco 
(white  fish)  are  taken  from  these  lakes  in  great  numbers,  and 
fishing  is  the  chief  occupation  of  the  dwellers  along  their  shores. 
To  the  S.  of  Patzcuaro  lies  the  pretty  Lago  de  Zirahuen , re- 
ferred to  at  p.  226. 

The  Climate  is  cold  in  the  mountain  region,  temperate  on 
the  plains  and  hot  in  the  southern  portion.  Morelia  and 
Patzcuaro  are  summer  resorts  for  many  of  the  inhabitants  of 
the  Mexican  capital . 

The  Fauna  includes  the  tapir,  tiger  (not  the  striped  Bengal 
variety),  mountain-lion,  leopard,  wild-boar,  ounce,  deer  (several 
species),  foxes  and  so  on.  Certain  regions  furnish  fine  sport  for 
hunstmen.  The  reptilia  is  represented  by  the  powerful  and 
dreaded  boa  — a huge  serpent  with  a rectangular  succession  of 
spots,  alternately  black  and  yellow,  extending  the  whole  length 
of  the  back  — by  the  viper,  scorpion  ( alacran , comp.  p.  93), 
tarantula  and  a varied  entomological  congress.  The  range  of 
the  bird  species  is  unusually  wide  and  many  of  the  individual 
specimens  are  remarkable  for  their  brilliant  plumage.  In  the 
remote  and  unfrequented  regions  are  found  the  beautiful,  and 
much-hunted,  American  Egret  ( Herodias  egretta) ; the  Mexi- 
can Jacana  ( Jacana  spinosa) ; Mourning  Dove  ( Zenaidura 
macroura ),  a species  widely  disseminated  throughout  Mexico; 
the  Laughing  Falcon  ( Herpetotheres  cachinnans) — also  very 
common  in  the  tropics  along  the  coast ; the  Rufous  Cuckoo 
( Piaya  mexicana) ; Mexican  Whip-poor-will  ( Antrostomus  ma- 
cromystox) ; Mexican  Meadowlark  ( Sturnella  magna  mexicana) 
and  an  almost  endless  list  of  Parrots,  Pheasants,  Quail,  Snipe, 
Ducks,  Geese  and  song-birds. 

The  Flora  is  rich  and  varied,  comprising  almost  everything 
from  the  pines  of  the  mountain  summits  to  the  beautiful 
and  valuable  orchids  of  the  tierra  caliente.  In  the  astonish- 
ingly fertile  soil  of  this  favored  state  fine  cabinet-woods  grow 
in  abundance;  along  with  almost  countless  oleaginous, 
medicinal,  aromatic  and  flowering  plants. 

The  list  of  fruits,  many  of  delightful  flavor,  is  a long  one. 
Sericulture  is  being  introduced.  Some  of  the  oldest  olive-trees 
in  Mexico  will  be  found  in  the  old  convent  garden  at  Tzin- 
tzuntzan.  Cotton  and  silk  shawls,  palm-hats,  lace  and  em- 
broidery, sugar-cane  and  by-products;  mescal,  coffee,  vanilla, 
tobacco,  rubber,  cereals,  sesame  and  linseed,  and  vast  herds 
of  live-stock  are  among  the  products  of  the  state.  The  moun- 
tains are  rich  in  minerals;  gold,  silver,  copper,  iron,  cinnabar, 
lead,  marble,  granite  and  coal  are  found.  Opals  and  other 
gems  exist  in  small  quantities. 

The  remains  of  Indian  mounds,  caves,  rock-carvings,  temples 


226  Route  39.  PATZCUARO  TO  URUAPAN 


and  graves  are  found  in  many  parts  of  the  state.  Prior  to  the 
Conquest  it  was  perhaps  densely  populated  by  Indian  tribes, 
the  lees  of  which  are  still  to  be  found.  Among  these  are 
the  Cuitlatecos,  of  the  Nahuatlan  Family;  the  Chareos  and 
Charenses  ( Otomian  F.) ; the  Michoas  ( Tarascan  F.) ; Pirindas 
{Otomian  F.) ; Tarascos  ( Tarascan  F.),  see  p.  217;  Tecos 
( Nahuatlan  F.) ; and  several  minor  tribes  which  have  strayed 
in  from  adjoining  states. 

Patzcuaro , see  p.  209.  Continuing  our  journey  we  follow 
the  shore  of  the  lake  for  a mile  or  more  beyond  Patzcuaro.  As 
we  ascend  we  get  a better  view  (to  the  r.)  of  this  beautiful 
sheet  of  water  with  its  native  fishing-boats  and  the  towns 
that  stand  on  its  shore.  448  K.  Charahuen.  The  train  zigzags 
into  the  hills  to  458  K.  Ajuno.  From  this  point  the  grade 
slopes  downward  and  the  scenery  becomes  more  tropical.  We 
emerge  from  a wild  region  on  to  the  edge  of  a great  depression 
in  the  mountains  and  see  (on  the  1.)  the  Lake  of  Zirahuen, 
most  beautiful  of  all  the  Mexican  lakes.  Resting  quietly  in 
the  bosom  of  the  tall,  verdure-clad  hills  which  surround  it, 
with  its  unrippled  surface  shimmering  beneath  waves  of  heat 
and  reflecting  the  hills  and  the  blue  sky  in  its  pellucid  depths, 
it  makes  a very  beguiling  picture;  the  region  strongly  recalls 
the  fairy-like  Chuzenji  in  the  Japanese  highlands.  When 
modern  enterprise  converts  this  now  neglected,  but  splendidly 
sheltered,  region  into  an  attractive  winter  resort,  nature-lovers 
will  compare  it  to  Lake  Como  and  its  environs,  and  it  will  be 
listed  among  the  most  charming  winter  stations  on  the  conti- 
nent. The  waters1  of  the  lake  are  sweet,  there  is  good  fishing, 
and  the  climate  of  the  region  is  nearly  perfect ; with  long,  warm, 
sunny  days  and  cool  nights.  Thousands  of  ducks  disport  un- 
hunted on  its  placid  bosom  during  the  winters  at  the  North. 
The  little  coves  which  characterize  the  S.  shore  are  ideal  spots 
for  bungalows.  The  rly.  line  half-circles  the  lake  and  hugs  its 
shore  for  several  miles. 

466  K.  Ajambaran.  We  descend  to  more  tropical  levels  by 
a series  of  five  loops  one  above  the  other.  The  views  of  the 
surrounding  country,  now  boldly  mountainous  with  fair  valleys 
between  the  hills,  are  beautiful.  In  the  descent  we  cross  many 
deep  barrancas.  Range  after  range  of  verdure-clad  hills  un- 
cover themselves  to  view  as  the  train  travels  to  all  points 
of  the  compass,  and  the  region  bears  an  aspect  of  untold 
richness.  Splendid  pine  forest,  with  greensward  sprinkled  with 
blooming  wild-flowers,  clothe  the  slopes.  The  woods  look  sweet 
and  undefiled.  47S  K.  Tarascan. 

481  K.  Paranguitiro , a shipping-point  for  the  fine  sweet 

1 Engineers  say  the  centre  of  this  lake  has  no  bottom,  and  that  it  is  the 
surface  expression  of  an  immensely  deep  and  swift  river  which  flows 
beneath  this  region,  and  here  appears  above  ground.  The  depths  are  said 
to  be  very  cold,  and  the  current  irresistible. 


c.-u«  'if 


- 


URUAPAN 


41.  Route.  227 


oranges  and  the  limes  for  which  this  region  is  celebrated. 
Hereabout  some  of  the  splendid  orchids  (comp.  p.  564)  for  which 
Mexico  is  noted  are  found,  and  huge  boxes  of  the  plants  are 
usually  to  be  seen  on  the  station  platform,  awaiting  ship- 
ment to  foreign  lands.  We  traverse  a beautiful  district, 
warm  and  tropical.  Banana  trees  become  conspicuous  features 
in  the  landscape.  A wealth  of  riotous  vegetation  stretches 
away  on  every  hand.  Wild-flowers  abound.  Certain  views 
(to  the  1.)  recall  Maltrata  (p.  494)  on  the  Mexican  Rly.  486  K. 
Empalme  de  Conuy.  498  K.  Curu.  The  grade  is  steadily  down- 
ward, and  as  we  descend,  the  tall  hills  seem  to  approach  and 
grow  taller.  We  cross  a fine  valley  planted  with  Indian  maize 
and  literally  pink  with  myriad  Cosmos  flowers.  Happy-looking 
women  and  girls  are  seen  gathering  the  flowers,  of  which  they 
make  wreaths  to  wind  about  their  heads  and  shoulders.  Cer- 
tain sections  of  the  environs  are  given  over  to  the  growth  of 
these  flowers  and  the  fields  stand  out  in  broad  color  blotches 
in  the  landscape.  Near  the  station  of  515  K.  Uruapan  (see 
below)  are  some  fine  eucalyptus  trees. 

41.  Uruapan. 

Arrival.  The  railway  station  lies  about  l\  M.  to  the  east  of  the  town, 
which  is  reached  over  a road  that  is  fairly  good  except  during  the  rainy 
season.  The  tram-cars,  which  meet  all  trains  (fare,  7 c.:  double  after 
nightfall),  take  a roundabout  course  to  reach  the  plaza  in  the  centre  of  the 
town.  Trunks  can  be  transferred  to  the  town  on  the  flat-cars  of  this  line 
at  the  rate  of  $1.50  the  ton  weight.  If  there  are  a number  of  trunks  the 
checks  had  best  be  turned  over  to  the  hotel  manager.  Hand-bags  by  car- 
gadores  (comp.  p.  lii) , 25  c. ; trunks,  50  c.  Uruapan  is  the  end  of  the  railway. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  Hotel  San  Carlos  (formerly  Union)  on  the  la 
Callede  la  Union , 7 (PI.  D,  2).  Best  rooms  are  upstairs  overlooking  the 
street.  The  side  rooms  have  no  windows  and  only  a door  opening  on  to  the 
patio.  Booms  only,  50  c.  to  $1.25.  Three  meals,  $1.50  additional. 

Hotel  International  (PI.  D,  2),  facing  the  Plaza  del  Mercado.  Same 
rates.  No  upper  rooms. 

Uruapan,  a Tarascan  vocable  formed  from  urani  — gourd, 
and  urupan  — where  flowers  are  blooming  — formerly  called 
San  Francisco  Uruapan,  is  5,576  ft.  above  sea-level  and  was 
founded  in  1540  by  the  Franciscan  Friar  Juan  de  San  Miguel , 
who  traced  out  the  streets,  laid  the  foundation  for  the  exist- 
ing church,  planted  many  flowers  and  fruit-trees  and  taught 
the  Indians  how  to  improve  their  gardens  and  farms.  Soon 
after  its  foundation  the  beauty  of  the  spot  attracted  many 
settlers,  and  the  place  attained  a population  of  20,000.  Small- 
pox and  other  terrible  scourges  reduced  the  number  (in  1822) 
to  1,500;  at  present  the  town  has  about  15,000  inhabitants.  It 
is  the  head  of  the  district  of  the  same  name,  and  not  long  ago 
it  was  the  end  of  the  old  stage-road  from  Morelia  via  Patzcuaro. 
The  three  plazas , that  of  El  Mercado  (or  Fray  Juan  de  San 
Miguel ),  Del  Kiosko  and  the  Jar  din  de  los  Mar  tires  (PI.  C,  2), 
stand  at  the  top  of  the  town,  which  slopes  away  on  all  sides. 


22 S Route  41. 


URUAPAN 


These  plazas  string  along  one  after  the  other.  The  most  at- 
tractive, the  Jardin  de  los  Martires,  faces  the  old  parochial 
church  (uninteresting)  and  contains  a marble  monument  to 
the  memory  of  Generals  Jose  M.  Arteaga  and  Carlos  Salazar; 
Colonel  Jesus  Diaz,  Lieutenant-Col.  Trinidad  Villagomez  and 
Commander  Juan  Gonzalez , who  were  sacrificed  here  Oct.  21, 
1866,  by  Col.  Ramon  Mendez  of  the  imperialist  troops  of  the 
Emperor  Maximilian. 

Uruapan  was  the  birthplace  of  the  painter  (pictures  in  the 
Academia  de  San  Carlos , p.  308)  Don  Manuel  Ocaranza  (b,  1S45, 
d.  1882).  The  houses  are  chiefly  of  one  story,  with  tiled  roofs 
that  make  them  very  quaint  and  attractive.  The  streets,  though 
cobble-paved,  are  usually  clean ; some  of  them  are  mere  tun- 
nels through  avenues  of  tall,  green  coffee  and  banana  trees. 
The  Mexicans  consider  the  town  one  of  the  most  delightful 
spots  on  earth  — uno  de  los  sitios  mas  deliciosos  de  la  tierra. 
It  is  a beguiling  spot,  embowered  in  pink  cosmos,  red  and- white 
tube-  and  tea-roses,  a wealth  of  tropical  flowers  and  many 
tall  mulberry-trees.  Sericulture  is  a growing  industry  and  the 
leaves  of  the  mulberry  are  cultivated  for  food  for  the  silk- 
worms — gusanos  de  seda.  Many  of  the  sunny  patios  of  the 
diminutive  houses  flame  with  a brilliant  scarlet  flower  called 
flor  del  pastor  — shepherd’s  flower;  and  also  with  a beautiful 
variety  of  spurge  {Euphorbia  polygonifolia) . Here  the  splendid 
floripondio,  or  magnolia,  reaches  perfection,  and  the  country 
lanes  and  by-ways  are  redolent  of  its  fine  perfume. 

The  suburbs  are  very  picturesque  and  the  fine  fruit-trees, 
many  of  them  planted  by  the  zealous  Fray  Juan  de  San  Miguel, 
are  a constant  delight.  In  the  soft  climate  of  this  region  the 
chirimoya , shaddock,  fig,  orange,  banana  and  a host  of  deli- 
cious products  grow  to  perfection.  Wide  fields  of  sugar-cane 
stretch  away  below  the  town,  and  in  the  tierra  caliente , some 
20  M.  distant,  an  excellent  grade  of  rice  is  produced.  The 
Uruapan  coffee  (comp.  p.  489)  is  celebrated  throughout  the 
Americas.  It  occupies  a high  place  in  public  esteem  and  is 
considered  by  some  as  equal  in  flavor  to  the  Arabian  Mocha. 
The  supply  is  smaller  than  the  demand.  It  is  not  produced 
on  a large  scale,  the  annual  output  being  less  than  500,000 
lbs.  The  best  grade,  known  as  Caracolillo,  brings  about  $5  for 
25  lbs.  in  the  U.  S.  market. 

The  Spaniards  called  Uruapan  the  “ Paradise  of  Michoacan.” 
Its  people  are  pleasant,  its  almost  perfect  climate  is  balmy 
and  the  unusual  beauty  of  the  mts.  surrounding  the  place 
adds  very  much  to  its  charm.  Many  Tarascan  Indian  wo- 
men, half-Mexicanized,  dwell  in  Uruapan , and  the  creoles 
(much  goitre  among  them)  are  noted  for  their  handsome  faces. 
It  is  the  metropolis  of  the  adjacent  Indian  pueblos , and  on 
Sundays  and  feast-days  the  streets  are  animated  and  pictur- 
esque/ Not  a few  of  the  old  Indian  customs  prevail. 


FALLS  OF  TZARARACUA  41.  Route . 229 


Many  of  these  neighboring  Indians  make  their  living  by  manufacturing 
the  celebrated  Uruapan  lacquer- ware,  in  the  shape  of  gourds,  trays 
and  whatnot.  The  pieces  vary  in  size  from  small  bits,  barely  an  inch 
long,  to  broad  waiters  two  feet  in  diameter,  and  they  are,  as  a rule,  to  be 
found  in  all  the  curio-shops  in  the  Republic.  The  small  gourds  (Spanish, 
jicaras)  grow  on  low  trees  and  are  plentiful  in  the  vicinity.  The  Indians 
gather  and  dry  them,  split  them  in  halves,  scoop  out  the  contents  and 
by  means  of  a mineral  pigment  paint  the  interiors  in  gaudy  colors.  The 
larger  shapes  are  brought  from  the  outlying  districts,  chiefly  from  the 
slope  of  ML  Tancitaro  (a  superb  snow-clad  peak  visible  to  the  S.-W.), 
whither  the  workers  repair  and  camp  while  making  them.  After  a 
thorough  seasoning  the  vessel  to  be  lacquered  is  covered  with  a coating 
of  lithomarge  (a  sectile,  compact  clay  of  a fine,  smooth  texture)  and  al- 
lowed to  dry.  The  men  then  trace  out  the  designs  with  a sharp-pointed 
instrument,  and  the  women  fill  in  the  incisions  with  various  colors, 
smoothing  them  down  with  their  thumbs.  An  adept  at  the  work  will 
often  draw  the  design  and  finish  it  in  one  operation.  These  designs,  in 
which  there  is  a paucity  of  ideas,  usually  represent  flowers  and  geometri- 
cal figures  popular  with  the  Indios.  The  colors  are  bright,  and  rarely 
harmonize;  gilding  is  sometimes  resorted  to.  In  such  cases  the  finished 
product  is  only  valuable  as  a curio.  The  lacquer  is  produced  from  a plant 
louse  (Spanish  — aje)  which  is  gathered  during  the  rainy  season  by  the 
Indians  of  Huetdmo  ( Tarascan — hue — come,  and  tamo — four;  where 
four  come  together),  about  50  leagues  S.-E.  of  Uruapan.  The  polishing 
process  is  laborious,  as  the  best  product  must  be  hand-finished.  Small 
articles  of  this  ware  are  usually  offered  for  sale  by  the  Indians,  who 
generally  ask  much  more  than  they  expect  to  receive  — a back-handed 
compliment  to  the  visitor’s  generosity  and  his  ignorance  of  values. 

One  of  the  most  beautiful  spots  in  the  vicinity  of  Uruapan 
is  the 

Waterfall  of  Tzararacua,  some  six  miles  to  the  S.-E. 
of  the  town.  A good  pedestrian  will  find  the  walk  thoroughly 
delightful,  but  a guide  should  be  taken  along  to  point  out  the 
way.  The  hotel  manager  will  get  a dependable  boy  for  50  c.- 
$1.  Horses  are  available  at  SI  the  round  trip.  Vehicles  are 
scarce  and  the  roads  were  not  made  for  them.  Horse  for  the 
guide  unnecessary,  as  he  can  trot  alongside.  One  morning 
is  ample  for  the  round  trip.  The  entire  country  is  peaceable 
and  safe.  As  venomous  snakes  are  known  to  haunt  the  local- 
ity of  the  cascada  puttee  leggings  are  desirable.  The  word 
tzararacua  is  Tarascan  and  means  a sieve. 

The  route  lies  past  the  plazas , down  the  hill  and  out  through  the  west 
suburbs  to  the  Indian  town  of  Jicalan.  Continuing  along  the  highway  we 
soon  reach  the  flower-embowered  and  attractive  Indian  pueblo  of  Ju - 
cacote,  with  many  fruit-trees,  and  a dolce-f ar-niente  atmosphere  that  is 
beguiling.  Splendid  coffee-trees,  planted  between  rows  of  bananas,  line 
the  roadside.  Here  they  are  not  always  clipped,  as  at  Orizaba  (p.  489),  and 
small  boys  mount  the  trees  to  pick  the  bright  red  berries.  We  soon 
climb  to  a higher  elevation  and  obtain  glorious  views  of  the  mountains 
which  hem  in  the  region.  Through  gaps  in  these  we  see  the  luxuriant, 
sunlit  hot  country  a score  or  more  miles  distant.  Pine  woods  become 
features  in  the  landscape,  and  we  soon  come  to  the  brink  of  a deep  gorge, 
at  the  head  of  which  we  dismount  and  begin  the  descent  on  foot.  Below 
is  a circular  depression  with  a natural  bulwark  of  stone  at  the  end. 
Piercing  this  is  a darksome  cavern  and  from  the  uncharted  depths  of 
this  comes  a roaring,  rushing,  tumbling  river,  which  falls  thundering 
and  boiling  a sheer  90  ft.  to  a swirling,  bubbling  pool  below.  The  sight 
is  unique  and  beautiful.  The  main  fall  is  of  immense  volume,  but  the 
chief  beauty  of  the  whole  lies  in  the  hundreds  of  miniature  falls  which 


230  Rte.  41.  URUAPAN  TO  THE  PACIFIC  COAST 


emancipate  themselves  from  the  central  stream  and  leap  through  a myriad 
tiny  fissures  in  the  rocks.  Some  of  the  minor  falls  are  several  feet  thick, 
while  others  are  of  needle-like  proportions;  as  slender  and  as  graceful  as 
the  finest  crystal  rods.  The  play  of  the  sunbeams  on  the  tiny  crystalline 
arches  produces  a charming  effect.  Many  of  the  miniature  jets  fall  upon 
a host  of  waving,  swaying  ferns  and  flowers,  and  sprinkle  them  with 
showers  of  sparkling  drops.  The  Falls  rank  among  the  finest  in  the 
Republic. 

The  river  below  (the  Cupatitzio ) rushes  away  to  irrigate  many  fine 
haciendas  and  cafetales  before  reaching  Uruapan,  where  it  flanks  the 
Calzada  de  la  Quinta , flows  beneath  several  handsome  rustic  bridges,  and 
furnishes  power  for  cotton-mills  and  cigarette  factories.  Some  of  the 
bridges  are  unusually  quaint  and  graceful  and  they  remind  the  traveller 
of  the  dainty,  straw-thatched  bridges  of  Dai  Nippon.  Lateral  streams  are 
carried  from  the  river,  across  certain  of  the  town  streets,  through  over- 
head pipes.  Some  of  the  bridges  are  substantial  stone  structures  with 
fine  arches. 

A horseback  trip  from  Uruapan  to  the  Pacific  Coast  will 
prove  a delight  to  the  traveller  who  does  not  mind  roughing  it 
a bit.  The  hacendados  are  a hospitable  lot,  the  scenery  cross- 
ing the  mts.  is  superb,  fruit  is  plentiful  and  the  country  is 
but  a little  short  of  a sub-tropical  paradise.  Its  beauties  are 
not  yet  known  to  most  of  the  foreigners  in  Mexico.  The 
traveller  may  like  to  remember  that  a four  or  five  hours' 
horseback  ride  across  the  mountains  (to  the  N.),  over  a well- 
defined  trail,  will  bring  him  to  Los  Reyes  (see  p.  149)  on  the 
Zamora  branch  of  the  National  Rlys.  of  Mex.  He  is  then  within 
touch  by  rail  of  Guadalajara  and  the  Chapala  Lake  region. 
There  is  good  hunting  on  the  way.  Horses  can  always  be  se- 
cured in  Uruapan  at  reasonable  prices. 


VI.  CITY  AND  VALLEY  OF  MEXICO 


42.  Mexico  City 233 

a.  Arrival  and  Departure.  Railway  Stations,  Hotels,  Fur- 
nished Rooms,  Caffis,  etc.,  233.  — 6.  Means  of  Transporta- 
tion, 238.  — Holidays,  238. — c.  Post,  Telegraph,  Railway, 
Steamship  and  Express  Offices;  Automobile  Garages,  244a. 

— d.  Embassies,  Consulates,  Physicians,  Dentists,  Clubs, 
Chamber  of  Commerce,  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  Red  Cross,  2446.  — e. 
Lodges,  Secret  Societies,  Banks,  Money-Changers,  Shops, 
Cigars  and  Cigarettes,  Booksellers,  Photographers,  Chem- 
ists, etc.,  2446.  — /.  Theatres  and  Places  of  Amusement, 

244 g.  — g.  Churches,  Church  Festivals,  244/i.  — h.  List  of 
Chief  Collections  and  Other  Sights,  244i.  — i.  Disposition 
of  Time,  244j. — j.  General  Hints,  244Z.  — k.  Gesticulation. 

The  Federal  District 245 

The  Valley  of  Mexico 246 

The  Origin  of  the  Tezcucans 249 

Situation,  History,  and  Character  of  the  City 251 

Central  Quarter  of  the  City 265 

Plaza  de  la  Constitucion  (El  Zocalo) 265 

El  Palacio  Nacional  (National  Palace) 267 

The  Cathedral  (La  Catedral)  272 

The  Municipal  Palace  (El  Palacio  Municipal) 292 

The  Flower  Market  (El  Mercado  de  Flores) 293 

The  Portales  (Arcades) 294 

The  National  Pawn-Shop  (El  Monte  de  Piedad)  ....  295 

Thieves’  Market  (El  Volador) 296 

Enrico  Martinez  Monument  (El  Monumento) 297 

The  National  Museum  (El  Museo  Nacional) 298 

San  Carlos  Picture  Gallery 310 

Points  of  Interest  between  the  Plaza  Mayor  and  the  Alameda,  and 

in  the  Northern  and  Western  Quarters  of  the  City 317 

Avenida  Cinco  de  Mayo,  317.  — Church  of  La  Profesa,  318. 

— Hotel  Iturbide,  320.  — Calle  de  Gante,  320.  — Church 
of  San  Francisco,  321.  — House  of  Tiles,  326.  — Church 
of  San  Felipe  de  Jesus,  325,  — Santa  Brigida,  3266  — 
National  Theatre,  326c  — The  Alameda,  327.  — Post-Office, 

328.  — Commercial  Museum,  328.  — School  of  Mines,  330. 

— Public  Works  Bldg.,  Telegraph  Office,  331.  — Churches  of 
Santa  Clara,  331,  — San  Lorenzo,  332,  — La  Concepcion, 

332,  — Santa  Maria  de  los  Angeles,  333.  — Jardin  ana 
Church  of  San  Juan  de  Dios,  333.  — Churches  of  Santa 
Vera  Cruz,  334,  — San  Diego,  334,  — San  Hipdlito,  335. — 
Church  and  Panteon  de  San  Fernando,  337.  — Calles  del 
Puente  de  Alvarado,  339.  — House  of  Marshal  Bazaine, 

340.  — Church  of  San  Cosme,  340. — Colonia  de  Santa 
Maria,  341.  — Instituto  Geologico  Nacional,  341.  — Casa 
de  los  Mascarones,  342.  — English,  American  and  Spanish 
Cemeteries,  342. 

South-East  Quarters  of  the  City 343 

Conservatorio  Nacional  de  Musica,  343.  — Church  of  Porta 
Cceli,  343.  — Church  of  San  Bernardo,  343.  — Biblioteca 
Nacional,  344.  — 2a  Calle  de  Capuchinas,  346.  — Churches 
of  Balvanera,  346, — and  El  Colegio  de  Ninas,  346. — • 
Palacio  del  Conde  de  Santiago,  347.  — Church  and  Hos- 
pital of  Jesus  Nazareno,  348.  — Churches  of  San  Jos6  de 
Gracia,  349,  San  Miguel,  349,  and  San  Pablo,  350. — 
Canal  de  la  Viga,  Xochimilco,  Floating  Gardens,  350.  — 
Church  of  San  Antonio  Abad,  350.  — El  Desierto,  350d  — 
Colegio  de  la  Paz,  352.  — Church  of  Regina  Cceli,  352.  — El 
Hospicio  de  Pobres,  353. 


232 


ENVIRONS  OF  MEXICO  CITY,  ETC. 


North-East  Quarters  of  the  City 353 

Church  and  Plaza  de  Santo  Domingo.  353.  — Escuela  Na- 
cional  de  Medicina,  356.  — The  Inquisition,  356.  — 
Churches  of  La  Encamacion,  357,  — Santa  Catalina  de 
Sena,  357,  — Santa  Catarina  Martir,  358,  — San  Antonio 
Tepito,  358, — El  Carmen,  358,  — Santiago  Tlaltelolco.  358, 

— Santa  Inez,  359,  — Santa  Teresa  la  Antigua,  359.  — La 
Escuela  Nacional  Preparatoria  (San  Ildefonso),  360. — 
Escuela  de  Jurisprudencia,  362.  — Churches  of  Nuestra 
Senora  de  Loreto,  362,  and  Santa  Teresa  la  Nueva,  363. — 

Casa  de  Moneda,  364.  — Churches  of  Jesus  Maria,  364, — 

La  Santisima  Trinidad,  365,  — La  Soledad  de  Santa  Cruz, 

366.  — The  San  Lazaro  District,  367.  — La  Penitenciaria, 

368. 

South-West  Quarters  of  the  City 369 

Belem  Prison,  369.  — La  Ciudadela,  369. — El  Instituto 
Medico  Nacional,  369.  — Church  of  El  Salto  de  Agua, 

370.  — La  Merced,  San  Juan  Market,  San  Jose  de  los 
Naturales,  370.  — Ch.  of  El  Corazon  de  Jesus,  371.  — La 
Sagrada  Familia,  371.  — American  School,  371.  — Plaza  de 
Toros,  371.  — The  Colonias  Juarez,  Roma,  and  Condesa, 

371.  — Washington  Monument,  371.  — Panteon  Frances, 

371. 

West  Quarters  of  the  City 371 

Calles  de  Bucareli,  372.  — Paseo  de  la  Reforma,  372.  — 
Equestrian  Statue  of  Charles  IV,  373.  — Statue  to  Christo- 
pher Columbus,  374  . — Statue  of  Cuauhtemoc,  376.  — 
Monument  to  National  Independence,  378.  — Chapultepec 
Castle  and  Park,  3,9.  — Molino  del  Rey,  3S5.  — Panteon 
de  Dolores,  385.  — Chapultepec  Heights^Colony v 390a. 

Environs  of  Mexico  City 391 

Guadalupe-Hidalgo,  392. — Tlalpan,  405.  — The  Country 
Club,  407.  — Churubusco,  407.  — Coyoacan,  408.  — The 
Pedregal,  411.  — San  Angel,  412.  — La  Piedad,  416. — 
Mixcoac,  416.  — Tacubaya,  417.  — Popotia,  418. — 
Tacuba,  418.  — Azcapotzalco,  419. 

43.  From  Mexico  City  toPachuca,  via  the  Ferrocarriles 

Xacionales  de  Mexico,  Mexican,  and  Hidalgo  and 
Northeastern  Railroads 421 

43a.  From  Mexico  City  to  Puebla 424 

44.  From  Mexico  City  via  San  Juan  Teotihuacan 

and  Tlaxcala  to  Puebla 424 

Pyramids  of  San  Ju&n  Teotihuacdn 425 

Church  and  Convent  of  San  Agustin  de  Acolman  4266 


232 


Railway  Stations , etc . MEXICO  CITY 


Jfi.  Route . 233 


42.  Mexico  City. 

a.  Arrival  and  Departure.  Railway  Stations,  Hotels,  Furnished 
Rooms,  Cafes,  etc. 

Railway  Stations  ( estaciones  de  ferrocarril) . 1.  The  Colonia  Station 

( estacidn  de  Colonia,  PL  D,  4)  of  the  National  Railways  of  Mexico  and 
operated  Lines  ( Ferrocarriles  Nacionales  de  Mexico  y Anexos  — usually 
called  Las  Lineas  Nacionales,  the  National  Lines)  faces  the  Plaza  del 
F.  C.  Nacional,  flanks  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma  at  the  Glorieta  Cuauhtemoc 
(PI.  D,  4)  and  is  about  l£  M.  west  of  the  Plaza  Mayor.  Trains  for 
Queretaro,  San  Luis  Potosi,  Tampico,  Monterey  and  Laredo  (Texas),  leave 
from  this  station,  as  do  also  those  for  Toluca,  Morelia,  and  Urudpan  (Rte. 
37).  Tram-cars  connect  it  with  the  centre  of  the  city  and  with  the  stations 
mentioned  hereinafter.  There  is  a small  lunch  stand  in  the  station,  and  a 
dearth  of  them  in  the  neighborhood.  The  traveller  with  time  to  spare  will 
do  better  to  walk  up  the  Paseo  a few  hundred  yards  to  the  Imperial  Hotel 
(p.  236),  where  he  will  be  sure  of  good  meals  at  reasonable  prices.  Ticket 
Office  in  the  station  and  at  the  General  Offices  of  the  Railway  Administra- 
tion in  the  2a  Calle  de  Bolivar,  No.  19  (PI.  G,  4). 

The  Estacion  de  Buena  Vista  (of  the  Lineas  Nacionales  — trains  to 
Cuernavaca,  Guadalajara,  Aguascalientes,  Zacatecas,  Torredn,  Chihuahua, 
El  Paso,  Texas,  etc.),  of  the  one-time  Mexican  Central  Railway,  faces  the 
Calle  de  las  Estaciones  (Pl.  E,  3)  about  £ M.  to  the  N.  (follow  the  Calle 
Ramon  Guzmdn,  and  its  prolongation,  the  C.  de  Mejia,,  to  its  intersection 
with  the  C.  de  las  Estaciones) . A good  walker  can  cover  the  distance  in  15 
min.  Diagonally  across  the  street  from  the  estacidn  are  several  indifferent 
restaurants  ( fondas ),  where  meals  are  served  at  all  hours.  — American 
newspapers,  Mexican  cigars,  cigarettes,  etc.,  are  on  sale  at  the  office  of  the 
Sonora  News  Co.,  in  the  station  yard  (beyond  the  gate,  at  the  left  of  the  W. 
track).  Ticket  Office  in  the  Station  and  at  the  General  Offices  of  the  line  in 
the  Calle  de  Bolivar,  No.  19  (PL  G,  4). 

One  minute’s  walk  to  the  E.  (right),  adjoining,  is 

The  Mexican  Railway  Station  ( Estacion  del  F.  C.  Mexicano ) . Trains  for 
the  Pyramids  of  San  Juan  Teotihuacdn,  Puebla,  Pachuca,  Esperanza, 
Apizaco,  Apam,  Cordoba,  Orizaba,  Vera  Cruz,  and  points  on  the  Isthmus 
of  Tehuantepec.  Ticket  Office  in  the  station  (Head  Offices  of  the  Line)  and 
at  The  Hotel  del  Coliseo,  3a  Calle  de  Bolivar,  No.  28  (Pl.  G,  4).  Connections 
are  made  at  Irolo  with  the  Interoceanic  Rly.  At  Puebla  with  the  Mexican 
Southern  Rly.  ( Oaxaca , Ruins  of  Mitla,  etc.),  and  The  Interoceanic  Rly.  At 
Cordoba  with  the  Vera  Cruz  al  Istmo  Rly.  Ai  Vera  Cruz  with  the  Vera 
Cruz  Rlys.  Ltd.;  Vera  Cruz  al  Istmo;  Interoceanic  Rly.,  and  all  Steamship 
Lines. 

The  San  Lazaro  Station  ( estacidn  de  S.  L.)  of  the  Ferrocarril  Interocednico 
(operated  by  the  National  Lines),  is  about  £ M.  E.  (P1.H,4)  of  the  Palacio 
Nacional,  in  the  E.  quarter  of  the  city.  Tram-cars  connect  it  with  the  other 
stations.  Time  by  taxi  about  15  min.  Trains  leave  this  station  for  Cuautla, 
Puebla,  Jalapa,  Vera  Cruz,  etc.  Ticket  Office  in  the  station  and  at  Calle 
de  Bolivar,  19. 

The  Peralvillo  Station  (Pl.  I,  2)  of  the  F.  C.  Hidalgo  y Nordeste  (Hidalgo 
and  N.-W.  Line)  is  about  £ M.  N.  of  the  Plaza  Mayor.  Proceed  to  this 
point  and  board  a tram-car  bound  for  Guadalupe.  The  line  passes  in  front  of 
the  estacion.  Trains  for  Pachuca,  Tortiigas,  Teva,  Beristdin,  etc.  The  Rly. 
is  operated  by  the  National  Lines.  (Ticket  Office,  Calle  de  Bolivar  19.) 

Estacion  del  F.  G.  de  San  Rafael  and  Aflixco  ( Xico  Rte.).  In  the  Callejdn 
de  Xico,  in  the  S.-E.  section  of  the  city  (Pl.  H,  6).  Trains  to  38  Kilom. 
Chaleo;  48  K.  Miraflores;  66  K.  Amecameca,  and  84  K.  Ozumba.  Consult  the 
6 uia  Oficial  (p.  xxxi). 

El  Ferrocarril  del  Desagiie  del  Valle  (Drainage  Works  of  the  Valley  of 
Mexico)  connects  the  city  ( Peralvillo  Station)  with  the  drainage  works  at  37 
K.  Tequixquiac  (comp.  p.  248). 

The  City  Plan  and  Streets.  Recently  certain  of  the  street  names  of  the  capi- 
tal have  been  changed  for  others  which  give  no  inkling  of  their  historic  or 
romantic  associations.  By  many  this  nomenclature  was  not  accepted,  and 
they  continue  to  call  the  streets  by  their  old  names.  Thus  to  change  them  on 


234  Route  ifl. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Hotels. 


the  Plan  would  be  to  confuse  the  stranger.  To  facilitate  its  use  the  old 
names  and  their  substitutes  will  be  found  in  the  left-hand  upper  corner  of 
the  Plan,  which  faces  page  23 2.  Only  a very  few  of  the  streets  changed 
are  of  interest  to  the  stranger. 

Hotels  (oh-tel-es).  Comp.  p.  xlvii.  Mexico  City  differs  from  the  pre-war 
capital  in  that  it  now  possesses  good  hotels  run  in  the  American  way,  where 
the  traveller  can  be  as  comfortable  as  he  would  be  in  the  average  New  York 
hotel.  Certain  of  the  old-time  hotels  are  still  in  existence,  but  not  all  of 
them  are  popular  with  foreigners.  Some  of  them  are  clean,  and  reasonable 
in  price,  others  are  not.  The  fact  that  they  advertise  (among  other  things) 
hot  and  cold  running  water  in  the  rooms  (or  baths)  does  not  mean  that  there 
will  be  hot  water  in  the  pipes  when  the  traveller  wants  it — or  in  fact  at  any 
other  time.  In  some  of  them  public  baths  are  operated  on  the  premises,  and 
the  proprietors  evidently  believe  that  if  the  guest  finds  no  hot  water  in  his 
private  bath  he  will  resort  to  the  public  bath  (and  pay  extra). 

Mexico  City  is  noticeably  cool  after  sundown  and  before  sunup,  and  hot 
water  at  these  times  is  very  acceptable;  particularly  to  the  American  who 
is  prejudiced  in  favor  of  personal  cleanliness,  and  who  believes  that  this  is 
the  best  preventive  against  disease.  In  certain  of  the  hotels  under  native 
management  a hot  bath  is  never  obtainable,  albeit  the  rates  which  include 
it  are  collected.  In  these  places  the  rooms  are  never  startlingly  clean,  the 
sanitary  arrangements  leave  much  to  be  desired  (particularly  if  closets 
are  flushed  from  a tank  — often  empty  — on  the  roof),  necessary  bits  of 
furniture  are  lacking,  and  what  exists  looks  as  if  it  came  over  with  Cories. 
If  three  skimpy,  sleazy  towels  are  provided  daily  for  2 persons,  they  are  not 
always  brought  forth  ungrudgingly. 

Usually  the  personal  discomforts  in  any  but  the  best  hotels  are  so  many 
that  the  wise  traveller  will  lodge  only  at  the  best.  These  places  always 
provide  ample  hot  water,  heat  in  the  early  morning  and  late  evening  when 
it  is  most  appreciated;  the  toilet  arrangements  are  clean  and  sanitary,  and 
the  manager  personally  anticipates  what  the  average  American  wants  in 
the  way  of  comfort  and  provides  it.  The  special  features  of  the  different 
hotels  are  mentioned  in  detail  so  that  the  traveller  may  choose  the  one 
which  best  pleases  him.  As  a general  rule  the  city  hotels  are  now  run  on 
the  European  Plan,  with  so  much  for  the  room,  and  meals  extra,  d la  carte. 

The  hotels  listed  hereinafter  have  been  carefully  selected  from  many 
because  of  the  excellence  of  their  appointments,  the  fact  that  the  manager 
of  each  has  had  experience  in  running  hotels  in  the  U.  S.  A.;  for  reasonable 
charges,  and  because  they  fulfil  the  requirements  of  the  average  American 
traveller.  Also  because  they  are  well  supplied  with  baths,  have  sunny  rooms 
(a  most  desirable  feature  on  the  Mexican  tableland),  and  provide  good, 
American  style  food.  In  certain  of  them  the  restaurant  may  be  under  separate 
management,  and  meals  must  be  paid  for  when  taken.  The  order  of  listing 
these  hotels  implies  no  superiority  one  over  the  other.  Each  enjoys  special 
features  which  appeal  differently  to  different  travellers,  and  each  is  recom- 
mended. 

Hotel  Geneve.  A thoroughly  modern  (the  largest  in  Mexico),  strictly 
American  (American  ownership,  management  and  cooking)  hotel  (250 
guest  rooms,  baths,  etc.)  of  concrete  and  steel  (fire  and  earthquake  proof), 
not  far  from  the  business  centre  (taxis,  car  lines,  quick  service),  the  Colonia 
(passenger)  Railroad  Station,  the  American  and  other  embassies  and  lega- 
tions,  bull-ring  and  the  Condesa  race  track,  amid  beautiful  surroundings  (on 
8th  Liverpool  St.  No.  133  — PI.  D,  5),  in  one  of  the  healthiest  sections  of 
the  city.  Much  liked  for  its  many  refinements.  Good  food.  Telephones. 
Hot  Water  Heat.  Tennis  Court.  Garage  (motor  cars  at  reasonable  rates). 
Children’s  playground.  Fine  views.  The  drinking  water  comes  from  a deep 
artesian  well  (no  connection  with  the  city  mains)  on  the  premises,  and  its 
perfect  purity  renders  boiling  unnecessary.  Rates  from $2.50  a day  (Ameri- 
can money)  for  single  rooms,  up  to  $20  per  day  for  five-room  de  luxe  suites. 
European  plan.  Weekly  rates  apply  when  a guest  remains  for  7 consecutive 
days.  Table  d'hdtc  and  d la  carte  service  in  the  Restaurant  (first-class  Ameri- 
can cook).  Board  by  the  week  at  special  rates  on  application.  The  Genet  e 
caters  to  transients  as  well  as  to  permanent  guests.  Attractive  rates  to 
families  and  those  making  a long  stay.  Persons  entering  Mexico  through 
Laredo,  Texas,  can  arrange  for  rooms  on  application  to  Mr.  Louis  Putter 


Hotels. 


MEXICO  CITY 


1+2.  Route.  235 


(1320  Convent  Ave.,  Laredo),  who  meets  all  trains  and  assists  travellers 
through  the  Mexican  Custom  House.  A valuable  aid  to  ladies  travelling 
alone.  The  Geneve  is  under  the  personal  supervision  of  Mr.  Thos.  S.  Gore , 
an  experienced  hotel  manager  of  international  repute. 

Hotel  Regis,  one  of  the  largest  and  most  modern  American  hotels  in 
Mexico,  in  the  heart  of  the  business  district  (PI.  F,  4),  facing  the  stately 
Avenida  Juarez , at  the  W.  end  of  the  delightful  Alameda  (Mexico’s  loveliest 
park  and  promenade  — excellent  music,  beautiful  walks,  flowers,  etc.)  with 
sunny  rooms,  hot  and  cold  water,  telephones,  elevators,  Ticket  and  tele- 
graph offices,  Information  bureau,  Steam  laundry,  Ainer.  barber  shop,  and 
the  largest  Swimming  Pool  in  the  Republic.  The  Regis  Turkish,  Russian, 
and  electric  baths  are  the  best  in  the  country.  Good  caf6  and  restaurant, 
with  American  food,  cabaret,  music,  dancing,  etc.  Many  of  the  500  rooms 
and  450  baths  of  the  Regis  were  completed  and  decorated  in  1922.  Rates 
for  these  rooms,  without  bath,  from  4 pesos  a day;  with  bath  from  5 to  20 
pesos.  — One  of  the  best  known  and  most  popular  of  the  metropolitan 
hotels.  The  manager,  Sam  H.  Lackland , was  formerly  with  the  Statler 
Hotels.  Sight-seeing  autos  leave  the  Regis  at  intervals  during  the  day  for 
points  of  interest  in  the  city  and  suburbs,  for  San  Juan  Teotihuacdn, 
Cuernavaca , the  Cacahuamilpa  Caverns , Chapultepec , etc. 

Hotel  Princess,  Avenida  Hidalgo  No.  59  (formerly  the  Ave.  de  los  H om- 
bres I lustres),  one  of  the  best  equipped  and  most  modern  of  the  metropolitan 
hotels,  occupies  a unique  position  near  the  centre  of  the  business  district  yet 
overlooking  the  charming  Alameda,  with  its  excellent  music,  its  walks, 
fountains,  and  flowers.  This  beautiful  civic  ornament  serves  as  a sort  of 
front  yard  to  the  hotel,  which  is  immediately  across  the  street  from  it,  at 
the  N.  so  that  its  rooms  get  the  southern  and  western  sun  as  well  as  the  views 
over  the  Alameda.  Strictly  high  class,  with  large,  clean,  comfortable  rooms 
and  baths,  with  steam  heat,  hot  and  cold  running  water,  telephones,  excellent 
service,  attractive  restaurant  and  grillroom  (French  and  American  cuisine) . 
The  handsomely  appointed  Princess  is  a sort  of  social  centre,  and  the  rendez- 
vous for  the  distinguished  and  diplomatic  life  of  the  capital.  The  wealth, 
beauty,  and  fashion  of  Mexico  City  usually  attend  the  celebrated  The 
Dansants  given  in  the  hotel,  which  is  but  a few  minutes’  walk  from  the 
nerve  centre  of  the  capital.  One  block  from  the  busy  Ave.  Juarez;  2 from 
the  Central  Post-Office  and  the  splendid  National  Theatre  — the  finest  struc- 
ture of  its  class  on  the  continent.  Reasonable  rates,  yet  all  the  comfort  and 
refinement  of  a modern,  up-to-date  hotel.  Mr.  Fernando  L.  Padilla,  the 
manager,  has  had  long  experience  in  running  American  hotels.  English, 
French,  German,  Spanish,  Italian  spoken. 

Hotel  Guardiola,  Ave.  Madero  No.  5 (PI.  G,  4),  perhaps  the  best  of  the 
hotels  of  the  old  regime,  newly  fitted  up  and  furnished  (in  1922),  with 
modern  conveniences  and  appliances;  sanitary,  enlarged,  with  an  attractive 
lobby,  and  an  excellent  restaurant,  facing  the  Palacio  Escandon  and  Sanborns 
internationally  famous  tea-rooms  and  restaurant  (the  celebrated  Casa 
de  los  Azulejos).  The  Guardiola  is  under  the  personal  supervision  of  a 
manager  {Mr.  F.  de  P.  Carrol)  of  wide  experience  who  knows  how  to 
cater  to  those  Americans  who  prefer  real  comfort  to  ostentatious  luxury. 
Long  known  to  Americans  as  one  of  the  best  hotels  of  the  Mexican  capital, 
The  Guardiola  is  especially  popular  with  travelling  men  and  those  commer- 
cial men  who  prefer  to  be  in  the  very  heart  of  the  business  centre.  The 
attractive  rooms  are  scrupulously  clean,  and  the  service  is  good.  A tasteful, 
high  standard  American  hotel  adapted  to  Mexico,  with  the  comfort  of  the 
one  and  the  charm  of  the  other.  Rooms  without  bath,  for  one,  S3,  $5,  and 
$6  (Mex.  money)  a day.  Rooms  without  bath,  for  two,  $6  and  $8.  Rooms 
with  bath,  for  one,  $8  and  up.  Parlor  suites,  $10  and  up.  English  spoken. 
Special  attention  to  American  tourists,  and  special  rates  for  a long  stay. 

Hotel  Ansonia,  Avenida  Ayuntamiento  No.  133  (PI.  F,  4),  a new,  thor- 
oughly equipped,  attractive  residential  hotel,  four  blocks  S.  of  the  Alameda, 
in  the  residential  heart  of  the  modern  city,  on  a quiet  avenue  with  magnifi- 
cent views  over  the  valley  to  the  distant  mountains.  Sanitary,  newly 
furnished,  with  large  rooms  nearly  all  of  which  receive  the  sun.  Fireplaces, 
telephones,  rooms  singly  or  in  suites  of  two,  three,  or  four  rooms  with  private 
dining-room  and  kitchen.  The  first  of  its  kind  in  Mexico,  where  travellers 
may  eat  in  the  hotel  dining-room,  have  their  meals  sent  to  their  rooms,  or 


236  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY  Hotels,  Restaurants. 

do  light  housekeeping,  as  in  a flat  or  a detached  house.  There  is  a good 
grill  room  and  restaurant  where  excellent  food  can  be  had  at  reasonable 
prices.  One  can  employ  one’s  own  servant,  or  be  served  by  the  hotel  em- 
ployees. All  the  advantages  of  a hotel  without  the  disadvantages  of  a 
leased  house  and  its  attendant  worries.  Very  popular  with  small  families, 
and  cheaper  than  renting  a house.  Prices  moderate.  Special  rates  for  a long 
stay.  Under  the  personal  supervision  of  an  experienced  hotel  man  (Mr. 
E.  Elisondo , proprietor  and  manager)  thoroughly  familiar  with  American 
methods.  English  spoken  in  all  departments. 

Hotel  Imperial,  a huge,  modern  hotel  in  the  residential  section  of  the 
city,  overlooking  the  beautiful  Paseo  de  la  Reforma , near  the  Cuauhtemoc 
Statue  (PI.  E,  4)  and  the  Colonia  Station  (of  the  National  Railways).  Ameri- 
can management  and  ideas.  American  cuisine.  Caters  to  both  transients  and 
residents.  In  an  unusually  attractive  location,  away  from  the  noise  of  the 
centre  of  the  city,  and  on  the  most  fashionable  boulevard  in  the  Republic. 
Within  easy  walking  distance  of  the  Castle  and  Forest  of  Chapultepec,  the 
Alameda,  and  all  the  new  Colonias.  Tram-cars  pass  the  door  every  few  min- 
utes for  various  points  in  the  city  and  suburbs.  The  traveller  arriving  at 
the  Colonia  Station  can  go  direct  to  the  Imperial  without  a long  taxicab  or 
luggage  transfer.  Personal  hospitality  and  individual  attention  are  char- 
acteristic features  of  the  Imperial,  which  is  popular  with  American  trav- 
ellers. The  dining-room  is  much  favored  by  local  society.  The  attractive 
lobby,  with  its  high  ceiling  and  fine  views,  is  celebrated  for  its  splendid 
examples  of  gilded  church  ornaments  and  Churrigueresque  carvings.  As 
the  hotel  covers  a flat-iron  square,  and  thus  faces  in  four  directions,  most 
of  the  rooms  are  outside  rooms,  -with  attendant  sunshine  and  fresh  air. 
Rates:  Room  and  bath  (outside),  $2.50  (U.  S.  money)  a day.  In  the  restau- 
rant there  is  a special  weekly  rate  for  tourists,  of  S15  (U.  S.  money),  for  3 
meals  a day.  Very  attractive  rates  for  families  and  for  a long  stay.  Under 
the  personal  supervision  of  Mr.  Geo.  T.  Braniff.  English  spoken.  Member 
the  American  Chamber  of  Commerce  of  Mexico. 

The  San  Angel  Inn,  at  San  A ngel,  Federal  District  (see  p.  412  — Valley 
Plan  B,  4),  a celebrated  and  popular  hostelry,  in  an  extraordinarily  interest- 
ing garden  once  a conventual  estate,  now  converted  into  a suburban  hotel 
in  the  most  beautiful  section  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  and  increasingly 
popular  with  motorists  and  others  — who  make  of  it  a rendezvous  and  a 
terminus  for  one  of  the  most  picturesque  auto  rides  from  the  city.  The  old 
mission-style  convent  has  been  converted  into  one  of  the  most  attractive 
inns  imaginable,  flower-crowned  with  an  exquisite  patio,  long,  rambling 
corridors,  and  roof  promenades  whence  one  commands  glorious  views  over 
the  Valley  to  the  encircling  mountains.  Tables  are  set  out  under  the  giant 
trees  which  once  sheltered  the  pleasure-loving  brothers  of  the  religious  order 
who  constructed  the  garden,  and  delicious  food  is  served  at  reasonable 
prices.  No  monasterial  retreat  in  the  Valley  of  Mexico  is  set  in  a more 
artistic  environment  or  is  a greater  delight  to  the  senses.  The  tourist  with 
time  to  spare  should  not  fail  to  see  this  one-time  home  of  the  brothers  of 
the  tonsure.  The  Inn  is  in  charge  of  an  English-speaking  French  lady 
known  throughout  Mexico  for  her  culinary  ability.  Express  tram-cars  con- 
nect the  Inn  with  Mexico  City,  and  run  at  frequent  intervals.  Open  for 
guests  all  the  year  round.  Dinners  a specialty.  A delightful  spot  in  which  to 
take  afternoon  tea. 

Furnished  Rooms  ( cuartos  amueblados ) are  to  be  had  in  the  city  (about 
$100  to  $250  a month),  but  they  do  not  always  meet  the  requirements  of  the 
traveller.  A good  room  in  a hotel,  with  the  hotel  service  and  its  advantages, 
usually  is  more  satisfactory  and  just  about  as  cheap.  Consult  some  friend 
who  knows  the  city  before  arranging  to  take  a furnished  room  or  stop  at  a 
Boarding  House.  The  foregoing  remarks  do  not,  of  course,  apply  to  the 
excellent  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  referred  to  hereinafter. 

Restaurants  and  Cafes  abound  in  the  city;  certain  of  the  110  in  the  city 
and  its  suburbs  serve  regular  meals  (comidas  corridas)  at  a fixed  price,  vary- 
ing from  one  peso  fifty  centavos  in  the  smaller  places  (not  recommended),  to 
4 pesos  and  up  in  those  of  the  better  class.  Most  all  of  them  serve  ready-made 
dishes  ( plcUos  sueltos  or  del  did)  a la  carte.  The  cheaper  places  are  often  con- 
ducted by  persons  notable  for  their  ability  to  make  over  scraps  into  hashers 
(picadiUo,  salpicon)  which  do  not  appeal  to  Americans.  The  facility  with 


Restaurants. 


MEXICO  CITY 


4$.  Route.  237 


which  one  can  contract  typhoid  or  ptomaine  poisoning  in  unhygienic 
fonditas  (little  restaurants)  and  figones  (chop  houses),  should  bar  them  from 
the  tourist's  itinerary.  The  traveller  is  particularly  cautioned  against  an 
over-indulgence  of  sea  food  in  Mexico  City.  Native  lovers  of  fish  and  oysters 
often  save  their  appetites  for  them  until  they  reach  the  seashore.  Really 
fresh  fish,  excepting,  perhaps,  trout  from  nearby  rivers,  is  not  always  to  be 
had  in  the  capital,  and  intestinal  disorders  sometimes  result  from  eating  too 
much  of  this  otherwise  delicious  food.  In  Vera  Cruz,  Tampico,  and  other 
coast  cities,  the  fish  is  excellent.  It  is  unusually  well  served  in  many  of  the 
Mexico  City  restaurants,  and  is  often  eaten  with  impunity.  Salads  (un- 
cooked) should  be  eaten  sparingly  and  with  caution,  unless  at  places  like 
Sanborn's , and  others,  where  the  lettuce  and  other  vegetables  are  carefully 
washed  in  artesian  water.  It  is  best  not  to  mix  unknown  fruits  until  one 
learns  their  after  effects  — which  sometimes  are  disquieting. 

The  economically  inclined  may  like  to  remember  that  the  principal  meal 
of  the  day  in  the  Mexican  capital  is  eaten  at  noon,  or  between  12  and  3.  Usu- 
ally it  is  served  at  a fixed  price,  and  restaurateurs  vie  with  one  another  in 
keeping  this  price  down.  Handbills  are  often  scattered  through  the  street 
to  apprise  possible  patrons  of  what  the  menu  will  consist  of,  and  its  cost. 
After  the  dinner  hour  meals  are  served  a la  carta,  and  then  a single  item 
will  cost  almost  as  much  as  the  entire  meal  served  a short  time  before.  Mex- 
icans eat  a light  breakfast  and  a lighter  supper. 

While  certain  of  the  native  restaurants  advertise  American  dishes,  they 
do  not,  as  a rule,  know  how  to  cook  them  in  the  American  way.  Many  of 
the  dishes  served  are  quite  naturally  Mexican  in  style  and  contents,  and 
some  of  them  are  delicious,  but  the  prevalence  of  hot  chiles  (peppers)  and 
hotter  sauces  (appetising  but  insidious)  tend  to  upset  the  American  stomach. 
Intestinal  disorders  are  common  in  Mexico  City,  and  much  of  the  trouble 
no  doubt  is  due  to  indiscreet  eating.  The  traveller  fortunate  enough  to  be 
put  up  at  one  of  the  city’s  foreign  clubs  (the  food  at  the  Country  Club  is 
excellent)  will  perhaps  find  the  ouisine  to  his  liking.  Foremost  among  the 
strictly  American  restaurants,  deservedly  popular  among  Americans,  and 
a sort  of  cult  among  the  diplomatic  and  aristocratic  life  of  the  capita',  is  the 
internationally  famous 

Sanborn’s,  in  the  beautiful  old  Jockey  Club  building  (PI.  G,  4),  known 
throughout  the  Americas  as  the  Casa  do  los  Azulejos  (the  House  of  Tiles) 
— mentioned  in  detail  at  p.  326.  Few  if  any  restaurants  on  the  continent  are 
so  artistically  and  romantically  appealing  as  the  spacious,  ornamental  patio 
of  this  celebrated  house.  In  addition,  the  food  is  excellent,  reasonable  in 
price,  and  well  served.  Club  breakfasts,  at  varying  prices,  from  7.30  to  1 1 a.,  m. 
Table  d'Hdte  Luncheons  (usually  about  2 pesos)  from  12.30  to  2.30.  Any- 
thing a la  carta  throughout  the  day.  Balcony  Grill  Service  (in  the  balcony 
overlooking  the  patio ) from  6 to  10  p.  m.  American  in  management,  ideas, 
and  service.  Spotlessly  clean.  Pure  artesian  water,  from  a deep  well  on  the 
premises,  is  used  in  the  kitchen,  and  also  for  drinking  (boiling  unnecessary). 
Almost  any  special  American  dish  can  be  ordered.  The  (pure)  milk  comes 
from  a specially  supervised  dairy  where  American  ideas  of  hygiene  are  rig- 
idly practised.  Excellent  music  at  meals.  Newspapers  on  the  tables. 

At  twilight,  and  for  some  hours  after,  the  patio  customarily  is  thronged 
with  the  wealth  and  fashion  of  the  metropolis.  At  this  time  one  can  observe 
the  odd  spectacle  of  distinguished  members  of  Mexico’s  elite  society  patiently 
standing  and  waiting  within  the  door  for  an  unoccupied  table.  At  this  time 
one  is  more  apt  to  find  a free  table  in  the  balcony,  from  which  vantage  point 
one  can  look  down  upon  as  brilliant  and  picturesque  a gathering  as  will  be 
found  anywhere  on  the  continent.  On  Sunday  morning,  after  mass  in  the 
beautiful  Church  of  San  Felipe  de  Jesus,  just  across  the  street,  the  Sanborn 
patio  is  thronged  with  Spanish-Mexican  sehoritas  and  sehoras,  silken  and 
mantilla  clad,  and  representing  the  beauty  and  charm  of  the  metropolis. 
There  is  dancing  in  the  lovely  ballroom  four  days  in  the  week,  and  special 
The  Dansants  at  other  times.  Patronized  by  the  highest  classes. 

Other  restaurants  are  La  Opera  (Sylvains),  Cor.  5 de  Mayo  and  Filomena 
Mata  Sts.  — Prendes , Ave.  16  de  Septiembre,  4.  — La  Europea  (Mex.  food), 
opposite  Sanborn’s,  under  the  Guardiola  Hotel.  — Cafe  Chapultepec,  at  Cha- 
pultepec  Castle,  expensive  but  much  patronized  by  Mexicans  on  Sundays. 
For  addresses  of  other  places  consult  the  newspapers  or  the  city  directory. 


238  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Taxicabs , Cabs. 


b.  Means  of  Transportation. 

Taxicabs  (taxis,  autotaxlmetros) , Cabs  ( coches  de  sitio,  carruajes),  and 
Jitneys  (Fords) , abound  in  the  capital.  The  former  are  coming  into  use,  but  at 
present  swarms  of  Ford  cars,  most  of  them  dilapidated,  take  their  place. 
The  drivers  are  usually  a parlous  lot,  many  of  them  untrustworthy  and 
ever  ready  to  overcharge.  They  spend  much  of  their  time  striking  for  they 
know  not  what.  The  traveller  should  try  always  to  give  the  driver,  or  chafer 
(sho-fer)  the  correct  fare.  At  present  this  is  $2.50  an  hour,  and  $1.50  for 
4 hr.  or  less.  Thus  from  any  of  the  rly.  stations  to  any  of  the  hotels  is 
$1.50.  As  much  hand  luggage  as  can  be  accommodated  can  be  piled  into  the 
machine,  along  with  one  or  more  passengers,  and  will  be  carried  for  this 
price.  Special  arrangements  should  be  made  for  out-of-town  trips.  For  these, 
larger  cars,  on  the  Hudson,  Dodge  or  similar  order,  ply  for  hire  and  can  be 
rented  (stands  at  various  parts  of  the  city)  at  from  4 to  6 pesos  per  hour. 
$2.50  for  5 hr.  An  extra  man  usually  accompanies  the  driver. 

On  leaving  a rly.  station  the  number  of  the  car  is  taken  by  a policeman, 
and  the  destination.  This  should  be  insisted  upon,  and  the  fare  should 
never  fail  to  make  a mental  note  of  the  number  of  the  car,  for  future  refer- 
ence. Not  unfrequently  the  chofer  and  his  accomplice  will  drive  a stranger 
travelling  alone  to  some  distant  part  of  the  city  and  there  rob  him.  Hand 
baggage  is  often  stolen,  or  run  off  with  while  the  passenger’s  back  is  turned 
or  he  is  in  a hotel  enquiring  about  rooms.  Care  should  be  taken  to  place  all 
baggage  on  the  sidewalk,  and  there  guard  it,  before  paying  the  chofer.  It 
takes  all  the  ingenuity  of  an  exceptionally  skilful  and  alert  police  force  to 
cope  with  the  Mexico  City  chofers,  and  to  aid  them  travellers  should  report 
anv  loss  at  once,  to  the  nearest  comiserla. 

The  sign,  Listo,  or  Libre  on  an  auto,  means  that  it  is  disengaged. 
.Every  car  is  supposed  to  have  a printed  tariff  ( tarifa ) in  Spanish  displayed 
within  viewr  of  the  passenger,  and  when  a cabman  or  chofer  is  detected 
demanding  more  than  his  just  fare  he  is  fined.  Minor  disputes  can  be  settled 
with  the  aid  of  the  Inspector  at  the  stand,  but  serious  charges,  such  as  theft  or 
violence,  should  be  submitted  to  the  Jefe  at  the  nearest  comiserla.  At- 
tempts to  overcharge  should  be  resisted.  Should  the  chofer  or  driver  persist, 
order  him  to  proceed  to  the  nearest  comiserla  ( vamos  a la  comiserla).  All  the 
chofers  and  drivers  are  registered  at  the  Police  Station  ( gendarmerla , or 
comiserla) , and  each  man  is  expected  to  wear  a number,  and  his  photograph 
pinned  to  his  coat  or  displayed  about  Jiis  person.  ChapuUepec,  Tacubaya 
and  similar  places  are  outside  the  city  limits  (in  which  fares  are  adjusted), 
and  a special  arrangement  should  be  made  with  the  driver  for  these  places. 

Cabs.  A few  still  ply  for  hire  and  cater  to  a clientele  which  seeks  a con- 
veyance cheaper  than  a jitney.  Most  of  them  carry  a blue  flag  (band era 
nzul)  and  are  open  victorias.  Fare  $1  an  hr.;  60  c.  £ hr.  or  less.  A better 
class  cab,  styled  Particular  (individual)  are  sometimes  seen.  Fare  double 
that  of  the  cheaper  ones. 

Double  rates  are  often  charged  for  autos  and  cabs  on  Sunday’s,  Dias  de 
Fiesta,  and  Dias  extraordinarias.  The  local  holidays  are  shown  below: 
Legal  Holiday’s  (see  p.  cxix)  on  which  business  houses  are  closed,  and  taxi 
and  cab  fares  are  higher.  Every’  Sunday. 

Full  Holidays  Half  Holidays 

Jan.  1st.  New  Year  (aho  nuevo) 

April  13.  Holy  Thursday  (Hueves 
Santo) 

April  14.  Holy  Friday  ( Viernes 
Santo) 

May  5.  Battle  of  Puebla  (p.  ccxxvii) 

June  15.  Corpus  Christi  (Corpus) 

Sept.  16.  Independence  day’  (p.  ccv) 

Nov.  2d.  Los  Muertos  (the  dead) 

Dec.  12.  Nuestra  Seflora  de  Guada- 
lupe 

Dec.  25.  Christmas  (Navidad) 

Days  on  which  the  National  Flag  (el  pabelldn)  is  raised,  and  the  city  takes 
on  a festive  air  are: 


•Jan.  6.  Los  Reyes  (the  Kings) 

May’  25.  The  Ascension  (ascencidn) 
June  29.  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul  (San 
Pedro  y San  Pablo) 

Aug.  15.  The  Assumption  (la  asun - 
cidn) 

Nov.  1.  All  Saints  (todos  santos ) 
Dec.  8.  La  Purlsima  (the  Virgin) 


Tramways . MEXICO  CITY  1+2.  Route.  239 

Feb.  5th.  Anniversary  of  the  promulgation  of  the  Mexican  Constitution. 
March  21st.  Anniversary  of  the  birth  of  Benito  Judrez. 

May  8th.  Anniversary  of  the  birth  of  Miguel  Hidalgo  y Costilla. 

May  15th.  Anniversary  of  the  taking  of  Quer^taro,  in  1867. 

May  21st.  Anniversary  of  the  taking  of  Mexico,  in  1867. 

Sept.  1st.  Opening  of  Congress. 

Sept.  15th.  Grito  de  Independence,  in  Dolores,  in  1810. 

Sept.  30th.  Anniversary  of  the  birth  of  Morelos , in  1765. 

Nov.  20th.  Anniversary  of  the  rising  headed  by  Aquiles  Serddn  (in  Puebla) 
in  1910  — movement  which  culminated  in  the  downfall  of  Porfirio  Diaz. 
Dec.  30th.  Closing  of  Congress. 

Days  of  National  Mourning  ( de  Into  nacional) , when  the  flag  is  at  half 
mast  0 media  asta) : 

Feb.  22d.  Anniversary  of  the  death  of  Francisco  I.  Madero , and  J.  M.  Pino 
Suarez  (in  1913). 

July  18th.  Anniversary  of  the  death  of  Benito  Judrez. 

July  30th.  Anniversary  of  the  execution  of  Miguel  Hidalgo  y Costilla , in 
1811. 

Dec.  22d.  Anniversary  of  the  execution  of  Morelos,  in  1815. 

Business  men  may  like  to  remember  that  Saturday  (a  half  day)  and 
Monday  are  usually  busy  days  in  commercial  houses  and  travelling  men  with 
proposals  to  make  should  seek  other  days  for  them. 

Autobuses  or  Jitneys  ( camiones , autocamiones)  compete  with  the  tram- 
cars  and  run  to  various  parts  of  the  city,  but  the  wise  traveller  will  stay  out 
of  them.  The  chofer  often  speeds  according  to  his  inclination  (or  state  of 
intoxication),  and  accidents  are  so  common  that  only  the  nerveless  and 
those  who  believe  themselves  possessed  of  the  luck  of  Fortunatus  trust 
themselves  to  them.  On  the  other  hand  the  tram  service  supplied  by  the 
Mexican  Tramways  Co.  ( Compania  de  Tranvias  de  Mexico,  S.  A.) — an 
English  company  excellently  managed  by  Englishmen  and  Canadians  — is 
efficient  and  thoroughly  trustworthy.  See  below. 

Tramways  ( tranvias , comp.  p.  xxxvii).  Electric  traction 
cars  circulate  to  all  parts  of  the  city  and  centre  at  the  Plaza 
de  la  Constitucion  (PL  H,  4,  p.  265).  The  cars  stop  at  the  near 
side  crossing.  Trailers,  or  additional  cars,  are  operated  on 
many  lines  during  rush  hours.  On  all  the  suburban  lines, 
trains  composed  of  a 1st  class  motor  car  and  a 2nd  class  trailer 
are  operated;  the  traveller  should  ascertain  which  is  the  1st 
class  car.  (The  2nd  class,  usually  are  patronized  by  the  lower 
class  and  are  to  be  avoided.)  Fares  (stamped  on  tickets)  vary 
with  the  distance  (from  10  c.  in  the  city  to  50  c.  to  Xochi - 
milco)  and  no  transfers  are  given. 

On  Sundays  and  feast-days,  the  suburban  cars  are  apt  to 
be  uncomfortably  filled  and  it  is  necessary  to  go  to  the  Plaza 
de  la  Constitucidn  to  obtain  a seat  before  the  car  starts.  All 
the  city  lines  run  every  few  minutes,  and  the  suburban  cars 
run  at  intervals  of  from  6 to  40  minutes.  On  certain  of  these 
lines  there  are  rapidos  which  make  but  few  stops  and  cover 
the  distance  in  quicker  time  than  the  ordinary  trains.  The 
rule  is  to  enter  the  car  from  the  rear  and  pass  out  through  the 
front  door.  The  system  of  collecting  fares  is  subject  to  change; 
the  one  in  vogue  at  present  is  for  the  conductor  to  collect  the 
fare  (give  him  the  exact  change  when  possible,  and  look  well 
to  the  change  when  this  should  be  forthcoming)  and  give  the 
passenger  a ticket  which  is  mutilated  by  an  Inspector  who 
boards  the  car  during  the  journey.  If  a ticket  is  lost  or  de- 


240  Route  1$. 


MEXICO  CITY 


stroyed  before  being  inspected,  a new  one  must  be  purchased. 

Markers  on  the  line  poles  bearing  the  word  Parada  indicate 
where  the  cars  stop.  Smoking  is  prohibited. 

The  Guia  Oflcial  del  Sistema  de  Tranvias  de  Mexico  is  an  excellent  little 
guide  to  the  tramway  service  and  to  various  points  reached  by  the  lines. 
Illustrated;  compact.  Obtainable  at  the  Head  Offices  of  the  Mexico  Tram- 
ways Company,  in  the  Calle  de  Gante  No.  20. 

The  various  routes  are: 

1.  Tlalpam.  Every  40  minutes,  with  a rdpido  at  certain 
hours  in  the  f.  m.  From  the  S.  side  of  the  Plaza  de  la  Con- 
stitucidn. Traverses  the  southern  section  of  the  city  to  the 
Country  Club  and  Tlalpam. 

2.  Xochimilco.  Every  40  minutes.  From  the  S.  side  of  the 
Plaza  de  la  Constitucidn.  Traverses  the  southern  section  of 
the  city  to  the  Country  Club,  and  on  reaching  Huipulco 
station  diverges  from  the  line  to  Tlalpam  and  proceeds  to 
Xochimilco. 

3.  San  Angel  via  Churubusco  (E.  20  minutes).  The  car 
follows  the  same  route  ( Xochimilco ) and  turns  to  the  W.  just 
before  reaching  the  Country  Club.  A rdpido  runs  at  stated 
intervals  during  the  day. 

4.  Guadalupe  (E.  7 and  8 minutes).  From  the  N.-E.  corner 
of  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucidn.  Traverses  the  N.  section  of  the 
city,  passes  the  Hidalgo  Railway  Station,  and  proceeds  to 
Guadalupe. 

5.  Ixtapalapa  (E.  25  minutes).  From  the  E.  side  of  the 
Plaza  de  la  Constitucidn.  Through  Calles  de  la  Moneda , 
Jesus  Maria , Cuauhtemotzin,  and  the  Calzada  de  la  Viga 
(skirting  the  Canal  Nacional)  to  Ixtapalapa .. 

6.  Aviation  (E.  30  minutes).  From  E.  side  of  the  Plaza 
de  la  Constitucidn.  Runs  due  E. 

7.  San  Angel  (E.  16  minutes,  with  a rdpido  at  certain 
hours).  From  the  S.  side  of  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucidn. 
Turns  S.  into  the  Avenida  Uruguay , Calles  de  Victoria , 
Ave.  Morelos , Calles  de  Bucareli,  and  the  Ave.  Chapultepec , 
to  the  Chapultepec  Castle  gate,  whence  it  runs  S.  through 
Tacuhaya  and  Mixcoac  to  its  terminus  in  the  Plaza  de  San 
Jacinto  at  San  Angel.  Returning  it  traverses  practically  the 
same  route  to  the  Calles  del  Ayuntamiento , thence  through 
these  and  their  prolongation,  to  the  Plaza. 

8.  Mixcoac  (E.  16  minutes,  with  a rdpido  at  certain  hours). 
From  the  S.  side  of  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucidn.  Follows  the 
same  route  as  the  San  Angel  car. 

9.  Tacubaya  (E.  8 minutes,  with  a rdpido  at  certain  hours). 
From  the  S.  side  of  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucidn.  Follows  the 
same  route  as  the  San  Angel  car  to  Tacuhaya  and  returns  the 
same  way.  Passengers  for  Tacuhaya  have  the  choice  of  these, 
as  well  as  of  the  Mixcoac  and  San  Angel  cars.  The  San  Angel , 
Mixcoac , and  Tacuhaya  cars  all  stop  at  Chapultepec  Castle 
gate,  going  and  returning. 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  241 


10.  Atzcapotzalco  (E.  10  minutes).  From  W.  side  of  the 
Plaza  de  la  Constitucion . Follows  the  Ave.  16  de  Septiembre 
and  the  Calle  de  San  Juan  de  Letran  to  the  Ave.  Hidalgo , the 
Calles  del  Puente  de  Alvarado , and  through  the  Calles  Hon- 
duras, and  Tacuba,  to  Atzcapotzalco.  Returning  it  traverses 
practically  the  same  route  to  the  Ave.  Hidalgo  and  the  Calles 
de  Tacuba  to  the  Plaza. 

11.  Tacuba  (E.  10  minutes).  From  same  terminus,  follows 
above  route  going  and  returning. 

12.  Tlalnepantla  (E.  30  minutes).  From  E.  side  of  the 
Plaza  Hidalgo  ( Atzcapotzalco ) to  Tlalnepantla. 

13.  Santa  Maria  Alameda  (E.  6 minutes).  From  the  W. 
side  of  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion.  Follows  the  Ave.  16  de 
Septiembre  to  San  Juan  de  Letran,  then  turns  N.  and  traverses 
the  latter  and  the  Calle  del  Teatro  Nacional  to  the  Ave. 
Hidalgo  (flanking  the  Alameda  on  the  N.),  thence  the  Calles 
del  Puente  de  Alvarado,  Buena  Vista  and  Estaciones  to  the 
Colonia  de  Santa  Maria,  returning  via  Naranjo,  Sor  Juana 
Ines  de  la  Cruz,  Cipres,  Honduras , Puente  de  Alvarado,  Ave. 
Hidalgo  and  the  several  Calles  de  Tacuba  to  the  Plaza. 

14.  Santa  Maria  la  Rosa  (E.  6 minutes).  Follows  the  same 
route  of  the  Santa  Maria  Alameda  cars  as  far  as  the  corner 
of  Amado  Ye?Wand  Chopo  ( Colonia  de  Santa  Maria),  then 
turning  and  continuing  through  the  Calles  del  Chopo  to  its 
terminus  at  the  8th  Calle  de  la  Rosa.  Returning  from  the 
corner  of  the  8th  Calle  de  la  Rosa  and  7th  Calle  del  Fresno, 
along  the  latter  to  the  6th  Calle  de  Sor  Juana  Ines  de  la  Cruz, 
turning  and  continuing  via  Estaciones,  Buena  Vista,  Calles 
del  Puente  de  Alvarado,  Ave.  Hidalgo,  Calles  de  Tacuba  to  the 
Plaza. 

15.  San  Rafael  via  Hombres  Ilustres  (E.  5 minutes).  Over 
the  same  route  as  above  to  Puente  de  Alvarado,  thence  through 
the  Calles  de  Honduras,  the  Colonia  San  Rafael  and  Tlaxpana, 
and  back  to  the  Plaza. 

16.  San  Rafael  via  Las  Artes  (E.  11  minutes).  From  the 
W.  side  of  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion.  Follows  the  Ave.  16 
de  Septiembre  and  the  Ave.  de  la  Independencia  to  Dolores, 
thence  through  the  Ave.  Juarez  to  the  Calle  de  las  Artes,  via 
Ave.  del  Palacio  Legislativo  (passing  in  the  rear  of  the  Cafe 
Col6n)  to  the  Calles  de  Manuel  Maria  Contreras,  its  terminal. 
Returning  via  the  Calles  de  Honduras,  Puente  de  Alvarado, 
Ave.  Hidalgo,  Calles  de  Tacuba  to  the  Plaza. 

17.  Colonia  (E.  6 minutes).  Over  the  same  route  as  above 
to  Calle  de  las  Artes,  thence  to  the  Alameda  in  Santa  Maria 
via  Industria  and  the  San  Cosme  Market.  Returning  to  the 
Paseo  via  the  de  Calles  la  Industria,  Las  Artes,  and  the  Ave. 
del  Palacio  Legislativo,  the  cars  cross  the  Paseo  and  reach  the 
Plaza  through  the  Calles  de  Nuevo  Mexico  and  their  prolonga- 
tion. 


242  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Tram-cars. 


18.  Juarez-Loreto  Circuito  No.  i (E.  10  minutes).  Starting 
from  the  corner  of  the  Calle  de  Bucareli  and  1st  Calle  de  Lu- 
cerna  the  cars  go  through  the  latter,  traverse  the  Paseo  de  la 
Re  forma,  pass  the  National  Railway  Station  (see  p.  233)  and 
proceed  to  the  Central  Railway  Station  and  the  Mexican 
Railway  Station  at  Buena  Vista  (see  p.  233);  then  through 
the  X.  quarter  of  the  city  along  the  CaUes  del  Carmen , Correa 
Mayor , the  Ave.  Uruguay , CaUes  de  Victoria . Ave.  Morelos , and 
the  CaUes  de  Bucareli  to  the  corner  of  the  latter  and  1st 
Lucerna , its  terminus. 

18  bis.  Juarez-Loreto  Circuito  No.  2 (E.  11  minutes). 
From  the  1st  Calle  de  Lucerna  and  Bucareli . through  the  latter, 
the  CaUes  del  Ayuntamiento , Ave.  Republica  del  Salvador, 
CaUes  de  Roldan,  La  Alhondiga,  La  Santisima,  Leona  Vicario, 
CaUes  de  Mixcalco,  Donceles , La  Santa  Veracruz,  Calle  de 
Soto , Ave.  Hidalgo:  passing  the  Mexican  and  Central  Railway 
Stations  at  Buena  Vista,  thence  to  the  National  Railway  Sta- 
tion. Crossing  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma , the  cars  turn  left  to 
the  CaUes  de  Roma,  and  Versalles,  then  proceed  along  the 
CaUes  de  Lucerna  to  the  comer  of  this  street  and  Bucareli, 
the  end  of  the  line. 

19.  Rastro  and  Viga  (E.  8 and  9 minutes).  Starting  from  the 
Slaughter  House,  traversing  the  Calles  del  Cobre , Boleo,  Canal 
del  Norte , the  Aves.  Peralvillo  and  Brasil,  the  W.  side  of  the 
Plaza  de  la  Constitucion,  the  CaUes  del  5 de  Febrero,  Cu - 
auhtemotzin  to  the  comer  of  the  Calzada  de  la  Viga  and  the 
Calle jon  de  San  Antonio  Abad,  the  terminal.  Returning 
through  the  same  portion  of  the  city  to  the  Slaughter  House. 

20.  Penitenciaria  and  Nino  Perdido  (E.  6 minutes).  From 
the  Calles  del  Nino  Perdido  along  the  CaUes  Sa?i  Juan  de 
Ijctrdn,  thence  through  the  Ave.  Republica  del  Salvador , Ave. 
Pino  Suarez  (flanking  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion  on  the  E. 
side),  the  Calle  del  Seminario,  Ave.  Republica  Argentina,  Ave. 
Republica  de  Colombia,  CaUes  de  Lecumherri,  CaUes  de  Peni- 
tenciaria to  terminal  at  the  Penitentiary.  Returning  through 
the  same  portion  of  the  city  to  the  corner  of  the  Calle  del 
Dr.  Lavista  and  Calle  del  Nino  Perdido  to  the  end  of  the  line. 

21.  Peralvillo  and  Insurgentes  (E.  4 minutes).  From  the 
corner  of  the  .4 re.  Oaxaca  and  Ave.  ChapuUepec  via  Plaza  de 
la  Constitucion  to  Peralvillo.  Returning  from  the  Peralvillo 
Station  via  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucidn,  Ave.  16  de  Septiembre , 
,4  re.  Independence  and  the  CaUes  de  Revillagigedo  and  the 
Belem  Prison,  to  Insurgentes. 

22.  Guerrero  and  San  Lazaro  (E.  4 minutes).  From  the  Calle 
de  Guerrero  (in  the  X.  Central  part  of  the  city)  to  the  San 
Lazaro  Station  (PI.  J,  4). 

23.  Dolores  (E.  30  minutes).  From  the  Cambio  de  Dolores 
(W.  side  of  the  Chapultepec  Castle)  to  the  Dolores  Cemetery. 
Returns  the  same  way. 


Tram-cars. 


MEXICO  CITY 


1$.  Route.  243 


24.  Piedad  (E.  30  minutes).  From  the  S.  side  of  the  Plaza 
de  la  Constitution,  following  the  Ave.  16  de  Septiembre , Ave. 
Independencia , the  Calles  de  Revillagigedo  to  the  Tacubaya 
line  at  the  junction  of  the  Calles  de  Bucareli  and  Calzada  de  la 
Piedad , which  it  traverses  to  La  Piedad.  Returns  same  way 
as  far  as  Bucareli,  thence  through  the  Calles  Nuevo  Mexico,  and 
Capuchinas  to  the  Plaza. 

25.  Zaragoza  (E.  6 minutes).  From  the  Plaza  de  la  Con- 
stitution to  the  Calle  de  Mercado,  in  the  N.  Central  district. 

26.  Martinez  de  la  Torre  (E.  6 minutes).  From  the  Plaza 
de  la  Constitution  to  the  Plaza  Martinez  de  la  Torre  (near  the 

CnlJp  rtp  Mprrnrln') 

27.  Penon  (E.  30  minutes).  From  the  N.-E.  side  of  the 
Plaza  de  la  Constitution,  through  the  E.  portion  of  the  city  to 
the  Penon. 

28.  Alta  Vista  (E.  20  minutes).  From  the  San  Angel  Station 
to  San  Angel  Inn. 

29.  Colonia  del  Valle  (E.  20  minutes).  From  the  Plaza  de 
la  Constitution,  taking  the  same  route  of  the  Condesa  line  as 
far  as  Insurgentes,  then  along  the  Ave.  Veracruz  to  Colonia 
del  Valle  and  Mixcoac.  Returning  over  the  same  route  to 
Insurgentes  and  taking  the  inbound  route  of  the  Condesa  cars. 

30.  Condesa  (E.  8 minutes).  From  the  Plaza  de  la  Con- 
stitution through  the  S.-E.  part  of  the  city  and  Juarez , Condesa 
and  Colonia  Roma  Colonies,  to  Ave.  Jalapa.  Returning 
through  Jalapa  to  the  Colonia  Roma  and  Juarez  to  Bucareli , 
thence  to  the  Plaza. 

31.  Correo  Roma  (E.  8 minutes).  From  the  Plaza  de  la 
Constitution  (S.  side)  passing  in  front  of  the  Post-Office; 
traverses  the  N.-W.  section  of  the  city  as  far  as  San  Fernando , 
then  along  Rosales  and  Bucareli  Streets  and  over  the  Condesa 
route  as  far  as  Jalapa  to  the  terminal.  Returning  via  Jalapa 
and  the  Ave.  Jalisco  to  the  Calzada  de  la  Piedad  and  Bucareli 
to  the  Plaza. 

32.  Don  Toribio  y Santiago  (E.  4 minutes).  From  Don 
Toribio  the  cars  traverse  the  city  from  S.  to  N.  to  the  Plaza  de 
Santiago;  returning  through  the  Calles  de  Allende  and  Bolivar 
N.  to  S.  to  Don  Toribio,  the  end  of  the  line. 

33.  Hospital  General  (E.  7 minutes).  From  the  E.  side  of 
the  Plaza  de  la  Constitution,  along  the  side  of  the  National 
Palace,  through  the  Correo  Mayor , Regina , Arcos  de  Belem, 
and  the  Ave.  Ninos  Heroes  to  the  Hospital  Building.  Return- 
ing through  the  Colonia  de  los  Doctores,  Arcos  de  Belem,  San 
Miguel,  the  Ave.  Pino  Suarez  to  the  Plaza. 

34.  La  Venta  (E.  60  minutes).  From  the  Plaza  Cartagena,  at 
Tacubaya  to  La  Venta  (for  El  Desierto  de  los  Leones ),  over 
the  Toluca  branch.  Returning  to  Tacubaya  the  same  way. 

35.  Panteon  Espanol  (E.  30  minutes).  From  the  Plaza  de 
Tacuba  to  the  Panteon  Espanol.  Returning  same  way. 


244  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


36.  Roma  via  Pie  dad  (E.  8 minutes).  From  the  W.  side  of 
the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucidn , along  the  Ave.  16  de  Septiembre, 
Ave.  hidependencia,  and  the  Ave.  Juarez  to  the  Caballito , then 
along  Bucareli  and  the  Calzada  Piedad  to  the  Ave.  Jalisco  and 
the  corner  of  the  Calle  de  Jalapa,  the  end  of  the  line.  Return 
via  the  Ave.  Veracruz  to  Insurgentes , then  over  the  same  route 
of  the  Condesa  cars  as  far  as  the  corner  of  Bucareli  and  Nuevo 
Mexico;  continuing  to  the  Plaza  de  la  Reforma  ( Caballito ), 
then  Calle  Rosales,  the  Ave.  Hidalgo , and  the  Calles  de  Tacuba 
to  the  Plaza. 

36  bis.  Roma  via  Oaxaca  (E.  8 minutes).  From  the  W.  side 
of  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucidn;  follows  the  above  route  as  far 
as  the  corner  of  Calle  Bucareli  and  Ave.  Chapultepec,  thence 
through  Ave.  Oaxaca , passing  in  front  of  the  Bull-ring  and 
proceeding  to  the  corner  of  Ave.  Jalisco  and  Calle  Jalapa. 
Returning  over  the  route  of  the  C-orreo  Roma  line  as  far  as  the 
corner  of  the  Calle  Bucareli  and  Nuevo  Mexico , from  which 
point  the  car  follows  the  route  of  the  Roma  via  Piedad  cars  to 
the  Plaza. 

37.  Santa  Maria  Roma  via  Insurgentes  (E.  24  minutes). 
Starting  from  Colonia  Santa  Marla,  7th  Flores,  traversing  the 
Colonias  Santa  Maria , San  Rafael,  Juarez , and  Roma  to  Calls 
Jalapa.  Returning  over  the  route  of  the  Roma-Oaxaca  line  as 
far  as  the  corner  of  Rosales  and  Puente  de  Alvarado , from  which 
point  cars  continue  along  the  route  of  the  Santa  Maria  Alameda 
cars. 

37  bis.  Santa  Maria  Roma  via  Bucareli  (E.  24  minutes). 
From  Santa  Maria , 7th  Flores,  follows  the  route  of  the  Santa 
Maria  Alameda  line  on  its  inbound  trip  as  far  as  Puente  de 
Alvarado  and  Rosales,  then  along  the  Plaza  de  la  Reforma , 
the  Calles  de  Bucareli , and  Calzada  de  la  Piedad  to  the  Ave. 
Jalisco  and  the  Calle  de  Jalapa.  The  return  trip  is  from  the 
Ave.  Jalisco  and  the  Calle  Jalapa  to  the  Ave.  Veracruz  and 
Ave.  Insurgentes,  crossing  the  Pasco  de  la  Reforma , passing  in 
front  of  the  National  Railway  Depot,  then  following  the 
3rd  Calle  de  Ramdn  Guzman  to  the  corner  of . JJh  Artes;  from 
this  point  cars  proceed  along  the  route  of  the  inbound  Colonia 
cars  to  Santa  Maria. 

38.  Tulyehualco  (E.  60  minutes).  From  Plaza  de  Xochi- 
milco  over  the  Puebla  branch  to  Tulyehualco.  Returning  the 
same  wav. 

39.  Tizapan  (E.  60  minutes).  From  La  Merced  Market, 
along  the  Ave.  Uruguay , Victoria , Ave.  Morelos,  to  Bucareli 
and  the  Calzada  de  la  Piedad  to  Tizapan.  Returning  same 
wav  as  far  as  Bucareli  and  Ayuntamiento , then  turning  and 
continuing  through  the  latter  and  the  Ave.  Republica  del 
Salvador  to  La  Merced  Market. 

40.  Granada  (E.  60  minutes).  Starts  from  3rd  Ave.  Guate- 
mala, and  traverses  the  N.-E.  part  of  the  city  to  the  Calle  de 
Granada.  Returning  same  way. 


MEXICO  CITY  42.  Route.  244 a 


41.  San  Fernando  (E.  40  minutes).  From  Tlalpam  Station 
to  San  Fernando  in  front  of  the  Hospital.  Returning  same 

way. 

For  additional  information  consult  the  Guia  Oficial  issued 
by  the  Company. 

c.  Post,  Telegraph,  Railway,  Steamship  and  Express  Offices; 
Automobile  Garages. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Offices  (comp.  p.  xli).  The  ornate  and  attractive  Cen- 
tral Post  Office  ( Correo ) is  at  the  cor.  of  the  1st  Calle  de  Tacuba  and  the  Calle 
del  Tedtro  Nacional  (PI.  G,  4),  near  the  top  (E.  end)  of  the  Alameda,  and 
opposite  the  new  Tedtro  Nacional.  There  are  various  branches  throughout 
the  capital.  Travellers  should  frequently  inspect  the  lists  ( listas ) of  un- 
delivered letters  (illegible  addresses,  change  of  location,  etc.)  posted  in  the 
lobby  of  the  P.  O.,  and  arranged  alphabetically.  The  Mex.  Postal  System 
is  as  accurate  and  as  efficient  as  that  of  any  country  (much  more  so  than 
that  of  many  countries),  but  even  it  cannot  cope  with  the  abbreviators, 
rapid  writers  and  slip-shod  addressers  who  hastily  trust  their  missives  to  tne 
mail  and  help  to  swell  the  millions  of  letters  annually  destroyed  in  the  dead 
letter  office. 

The  Government  Telegraph  Office  is  in  the  Edificio  de  Comunicaciones  y 
Obras  Publicas  (2d  floor,  right)  in  the  1st  Calle  de  Tacuba  (PI.  G,  4),  opposite 
the  School  of  Mines,  and  diagonally  across  from  the  Central  Post  Office. 
For  a description  of  the  building  see  p.  331. 

The  Cable  Office  (Mexican  Telegraph  Co.)  is  at  the  cor.  of  San  Judn  de 
Letrdn  and  the  Avenida  de  la  Independencia  (PI.  G,  4). 

Railway  and  Steamship  Offices.  The  head  offices  (ticket  and  administra- 
tive) of  the  National  Railways  of  Mexico  (referred  to  at  p.  xxxii,  and  233) 
are  in  the  large  and  handsome  Edificio  de  los  Ferrocarriles  Nacionales,  at 
the  cor.  the  Ave.  5 de  Mayo  and  the  2a  Calle  de  Bolivar  (PI.  G,  4).  Branch 
ticket  offices  at  the  different  rly.  stations.  — The  Pullman  Co.’s  office  is 
in  the  building  (upstairs)  at  the  cor.  of  the  Ave.  5 de  Mayo  and  the  Calle  del 
Tedtro  Nacional  (PI.  G,  4).  Tickets  are  on  sale  and  reservations  can  be 
made  at  the  rly.  ticket  offices.  Information  relating  to  the  different  rlys. 
in  Mexico  and  the  U.  S.  A.  can  be  had  at  the  General  Offices  of  the  National 
Lines.  For  data  about  the  Kansas  City,  Mexico  & Orient  Rly.  consult  the 
Mexican  International  Trust  Co.,  Calle  de  la  Condesa,  8,  Cor.  5 de  Mayo. 
The  head  office  of  the  Mexican  Railway  is  at  the  Buena  Vista  Station 
(PI.  E,  3) ; City  Ticket  Office  in  the  Hotel  del  Coliseo,  in  the  3d  Calle  de 
Bolivar  No.  28  (PI.  G,  4).  The  Southern  Pacific  Rly.  of  Mexico,  5 de  Mayo 
32,  3d  floor.  For  the  addresses  of  other  lines  consult  the  local  directory. 

Steamship  Offices  (comp.  p.  xxxi).  The  Mexico  office  of  the  New  York 
& Cuba  Mail  Steamship  Go.  (The  Ward  Line  — R.  C.  Burns,  General 
Mexican  Agent)  is  in  the  Ave.  Independencia  No.  7.  — The  Mexican  Navi- 
gation Co.  ( Companla  Naviera  Mexicana,  S.  A. — Torcuato  Mar  cor.  Gen- 
eral Agent)  is  in  the  2a  Calle  de  Gante  No.  19.  — Pacific  Mail  Steamship 
Co.  (Berea,  O'Kelly  & Co.,  Agts.),  Ave.  5 de  Mayo,  15.  — The  Mexican 
States  S.  S.  Line  ( Companla  Naviera  de  los  Estados  de  Mexico,  S.  A.  — R.  C. 
Burns,  Passenger  Agt.,  Ave.  Independencia,  7. — A.  Grimwood  & Co.,  San 
Juan  de  Letran  No.  5,  Freight  Agents).  — French  Transatlantic  Line, 
la  Gante  No.  11;  Spanish  Transatlantic  Line,  Ave.  Uruguay,  No.  40.  For 
other  lines  see  the  Telephone  Directory,  under  Agendas  de  Vapores. 

Express  Offices  ( oficinas  de  Express).  The  office  of  the  express  (formerly 
Wells,  Fargo  & Co.)  operated  by  the  National  Lines  (F.  C.  Nacionales)  is 
in  the  Ave.  de  la  Republica  de  Chile  (formerly  Calle  de  Manrique)  No.  8. 
Branch  offices  at  the  railway  stations. 

Automobile  Garages  are  to  be  found  all  over  the  city.  Those  of  most 
interest  to  foreigners  are  in  or  near  the  Ave.  Judrez  (hard  by  the  Hotel  Regis) 
and  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma.  Autos  can  be  hired  to  the  best  advantage  with 
the  help  of  the  hotel  manager.  — Gasoline  costs  (usually)  from  80  c.  to  one 
peso  a gal.  The  gov’t  auto  tax  (subject  to  change)  is  about  $9  a month. 
Chofers  get  from  $100  to  $175  a month. 


2446  Route  £2.  MEXICO  CITY  Embassies , Clubs , etc . 

d.  Embassies,  Consulates,  Physicians,  Dentists,  Clubs,  Chamber  of 
Commerce,  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  Red  Cross. 

Ambassadors,  Ministers,  and  (or)  Consuls  ( Embajadores , Ministros,  y 
Cdnsules)  represent  nearly  all  the  foreign  governments.  So  many  new  houses 
are  under  construction  in  the  capital  — houses  with  modern  conveniences 
necessary  to  foreigners  — that  embassies,  legations  and  consulates  are  apt 
to  change  locations.  The  latest  directory  ( directorio ) of  the  city,  or  the 
Telenhone  Directory  will  give  the  correct  street  address. 

American  Physicians  and  Dentists  have  offices  usually  in  or  near  the 
Calle  de  Gante , on  the  Ave.  Madero  between  Gante  and  the  Ave.  Juarez,  or 
in  Independencia,  5 de  Mayo,  or  San  J udn  de  Letrdn  — all  near  one  another. 
Consult  the  local  directory  or  the  Telephone  book.  On  reaching  Mexico 
City  ask  some  friend  the  name  of  a good  physician;  then  if  one  requires  his 
services  one  can  call  him  up. 

It  is  a good  plan  to  get  from  some  local  friend  or  acquaintance  an  inkling 
of  what  a dentist’s  or  doctor’s  usual  fees  are,  before  employing  one.  Certain 
of  them  are  very  ‘ high  church  ’ in  the  matter  of  professional  etiquette,  but 
ethics  do  not  always  prevent  some  demanding  exorbitant  fees  from  the 
unsuspecting  tourist  who  trusts  himself  to  them. 

Clubs.  American  Club,  Ave.  16  de  Septiembre,  14.  — British  Club,  la 
Capuchinas,  23  (good  library;  largest  English  club  in  the  Republic).  — Ger- 
man Club  (Casino  Aleman;  Deutsches  Haus),  2a  Calle  de  Lopez,  23.  Has 
an  extensive  library  and  a good  membership.  Fine  ballroom  and  reception 
room.  — Casino  Espahol  (Spanish  Club  — the  King  of  Spain  is  a member), 
Ave.  Isabel  la  Catolica,  29  (between  Ave.  Madero  and  16th  of  Sept.).  Good 
concerts  and  literary  entertainments.  — Cercle  Frangais  (French  Club) , 
la  Motolinfa,  11.  — University  Club,  2a  Bucareli,  35  (one  of  the  most  prom- 
inent of  the  city  clubs).  — Automdvil  Club  de  Mexico,  S.  A.,  4a  Humboldt, 
39.  — Reforma  Athletic  Club,  2a  Capuchinas,  44.  — The  Country  Club  (see 
p.  ^07),  in  Churubusco;  a delightful  suburban  club;  fine  entertainments, 
excellent  cuisine;  charming  environment.  — The  Rotary  Club  (F.  W.  Teele, 
President;  K.  M.  Van  Zandt,  Jr.,  and  A.  Garza  Galindo,  vice-presidents)  is 
now  prominent  in  Mexico.  Consult  the  officers  for  details. 

The  Young  Men’s  Christian  Association  ( Asodacion  Cristiana  deJdvencs), 
Ave.  Balderas  79.  A fine  organization  doing  excellent  work.  Young  men 
cannot  do  better  than  to  get  in  touch  with  this  southern  extension  of  the 
American  society.  Good  rooms  and  meals  at  reasonable  prices.  Club  House. 
Sports.  Gym.  Etc.  Deserving.  Helpful.  Cooperates  extensively  in  physical 
work  in  Gov’t  Schools,  Mission  Schools,  and  in  city  playground  activities. 
Held  in  high  esteem  by  Mexicans  and  foreigners  alike.  Branches  in  many 
cities  of  the  Republic. 

Chambers  of  Commerce.  The  American  C.  of  Com.  is  at  2d  Motolinla, 
23.  — The  British  C.  of  C.  in  the  Plazuela  Colegio  de  NiHas,  4-  Each  works 
to  further  the  interests  of  its  nationals  in  Mexico. 

Red  Cross  ( La  Cruz  Roja  Mexicana).  Branch  at  2a  San  Jerdnimo  No.  14- 

For  the  street  addresses  of  the  80  or  more  Clubs,  Unions  and  Societies  in 
the  capital,  consult  the  local  directory  (published  by  the  American  Book  & 
Printing  Co.,  Ave.  Madero  25  — PI.  G,  4). 

e.  Lodges.  Secret  Societies,  Banks,  Money-Changers,  Shops,  Cigars 
and  Cigarettes,  Booksellers,  Photographers,  Chemists,  etc. 

Lodges  and  Secret  Societies.  Those  subject  to  the  Grand  Lodge 

Valle  de  Mexico  are: 

Toltec  (works  in  English);  Andhuoc  (Eng.);  Germania  (in  German); 
and  the  Benito  Juarez.  Lealtad,  Union,  Felix  Diaz  and  Ignacio  Ramirez , 
all  of  which  work  in  Spanish.  All  are  Blue  Lodges. 

The  Royal  Arch  Chapter  (under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Grand  Chapter 
of  Texas),  the  Commcndery  Knights  Templar  (under  the  jurisdiction  of 
the  General  Grand  Commandery  of  the  United  States)  and  the  Anezeh 
Temple  Ancient  Arabic  Order  Mystic  Shrine  (under  the  jurisdiction  of  the 
Imnerial  Council  of  North  America),  work  in  English. 

The  Ancient  and  Accepted  Scottish  Rite  (the  governing  bod v of  which 
is  the  Supreme  Comim  i!  of  Mexico) ; The  Council  Knights  Kcdosh,  Chapter 
Ro*e  Croix,  and  the  Lodge  oj  Perfection,  all  work  in  Spanish. 

The  Kn:ghts  of  Pythias,  Valle  de  Mexico  Lodge  No.  2 (under  the  Grand 
Lodge  cf  Texas),  works  in  English.  Of  the 


Banks  and  Banking,  MEXICO  CITY  J+2,  Route.  244 c 

I.  O.  O.  F.  there  is  the  Ridgely  Lodge  (English)  and  the  Germania 
Lodge  (German). 

Meeting  place,  Ave.  Morelos  2 4 (PL  F,  4).  Consult  the  newspapers,  under 
Lodge  Notices,  for  dates  of  meetings  and  other  information. 

Banks  ( bancos ).  Of  the  3 score  bancos  in  the  city  only  a limited  few  are  of 
interest  to  the  tourist.  Nearly  every  foreign  country  of  importance  is  repre- 
sented by  a banking  corporation,  a list  of  which  will  be  found  in  the  local 
directory.  Preeminent  among  the  American  and  Canadian  Banks  (those 
most  popular  with  Americans  and  British)  are  The  Mexico  City  Banking 
Corporation,  S.  A.  ( Eman  L.  Beck,  Pres't),  Ave.  Madero  14  (PI.  G,4),  and 
The  Bank  of  Montreal  ( H . Weldon,  Manager),  Ave.  5 de  Mayo  2 (in  the 
Mutual  Life  Ins.  Bldg.  — Pl.  G,  4).  At  either  of  these  drafts,  letters-of- 
credit,  travellers’  checks,  etc.,  may  be  cashed  (or  drawn),  and  a general 
banking  business  transacted.  Both  have  branches  or  correspondents 
throughout  the  Republic.  — Conspicuous  among  the  other  important 
financial  institutions  are  The  Mexican  International  Trust  Co.,  S.  A.  (an 
American  institution  — Samuel  W.  Rider,  Pres't),  Calle  Condesa,  8 (PI, 
G,  4).  — The  Banque  Frangalse  du  Mexique  (R.  Amilien  Lacaud,  Pres't), 
Isabel  la  Catolica,  40  (Pl.  G,  4);  Banco  Nacionalde  Mexico,  Isabel  la  Cato- 
lica,  44,  etc. 

Many  of  the  banks  are  closed  between  12.30  and  3 p.  m.  each  day,  while 
all,  or  nearly  all,  observe  the  various  holidays. 

Trade  Accept ances  in  Mexico.  American  business  men  will  be  inter- 
ested in  the  following  interpretation  (by  Mr.  John  Clausen,  Vice-President  of 
the  Mexico  City  Banking  Corporation,  S.  A.)  of  the  Mexican  laws  relating 
to  Trade  Acceptances  (which  differ  somewhat  from  those  in  the  U.  S.  A.). 

The  legal  dispositions  of  acceptances  are  uniform  in  all 
States  of  the  Republic,  and  in  the  Commercial  Code  are 
defined  as  follows: 

First.  Drafts  drawn  in  one  place  to  the  order  of  a given 
party,  payable  in  a city  other  than  where  the  draft  is  issued. 
Such  drafts  are  termed  Letras  de  Cambio  (Bills  of  Exchange), 
and  in  accordance  with  Provision  No.  449,  the  issuance  of  a 
Letra  de  Cambio  presupposes  the  existence  of  a contract  by 
which  a person  obligates  himself  to  place  funds  to  the  order  of 
another  person  in  a different  placd  or  locality  than  the  one 
where  the  bill  is  issued. 

The  legal  requisites  for  the  validity  of  a bill  of  exchange  are 
as  follows: 

Date  of  Issuance.  Amount  to  be  Paid. 

Name  or  Commercial  Style  of  the  Party  against  whom 
the  Draft  is  drawn. 

Date  when  the  Payment  is  to  be  made. 

Place  where  the  Payment  is  to  be  made. 

Name  of  the  Party  in  whose  Favor  the  Draft  has  been 
issued. 

The  Kind  of  Value  received  by  the  Party  who  issues 
the  Draft,  and  his  Signature. 

The  draft  is  made  perfect  by  the  drawee’s  acceptance, 
which  has  to  bear  — 

Place  and  Date  of  Acceptance. 

Word  acepto  (accepted)  or  aceptamos  (we  accept) , and 
the  Drawee’s  Signature. 

Second.  The  other  form  of  draft  is  called  libranza, 
which  is  a bill  of  exchange  issued  by  a person  to  the  order  of 


244d  Route  42.  MEXICO  CITY  Banks  and  Banking. 

another  and  drawn  against  a third  party,  the  drawer  and  the 
drawee  residing  in  the  same  place. 

The  requisites  of  such  a bill  are  the  same  as  those  men- 
tioned in  connection  with  the  first  heading,  and  in  order  to 
make  the  instrument  perfect  the  drawee  must  accept  it  in  the 
same  way. 

The  law  provides  that  once  the  bill  of  exchange  or  libranza 
is  accepted,  the  acceptor  is  obliged  to  pay,  and  cannot  refuse 
such  payment  unless  it  can  be  proved  that  the  drawer’s, 
drawee’s  or  acceptor’s  signature  is  forged. 

The  bill  of  exchange  and  the  libranza  may  be  drawn  at 
sight,  at  usance  after  sight,  or  at  a fixed  date.  For  those  that 
are  drawn  at  sight  or  usance  a previous  presentation  is  neces- 
sary to  drawee.  For  those  drawn  payable  at  a certain  date  a 
previous  presentation  is  not  necessary. 

At  the  option  of  the  holder  such  bills  of  exchange  payable 
within  Mexican  territory  and  for  which  previous  presentation 
is  obligatory,  the  presentation  to  the  drawee  must  be  made 
within  the  following  periods  from  date  of  issuance,  viz. : 

Within  Two  Months  if  drawn  any  Place  in  the  Repub- 
lic. 

Within  Three  Months  if  drawn  in  the  United  States  or  : 
Europe,  and 

Within  Four  Months  if  drawn  any  other  Place  in  the  I 
World. 

Both  bills  of  exchange  and  libranzas  are  endorsable  docu-  j 
ments,  and  in  accordance  with  Provision  No.  477  of  the  Com-  ; 
mercial  Code,  the  endorsement  must  contain  the  date,  the  i 
value  received  by  the  party  endorsing  the  instrument,  and  the  j 
name  of  the  person  to  whom  it  is  endorsed.  Endorsements  S 
may  be  made  in  blank  with  the  sole  signature  of  the  holder  j 
appearing  on  the  instrument,  and  to  exercise  the  rights  derived  j 
from  such  an  endorsement,  it  is  necessary  to  fill  in  the  afore-  :i 
mentioned  requisites  before  legal  action  can  be  taken. 

If,  upon  presentation,  such  instruments  are  not  accepted, 
or  not  paid,  they  must  be  protested  before  a Notary  Public 
in  order  that  the  holder  of  the  draft  may  keep  his  rights  to 
collect  the  amount  from  a subsequent  endorser,  the  drawer, 
or  the  acceptor.  1 

Letras  de  Cambio  and  Libranzas  give  to  the  holder  the 
right  to  obtain  an  immediate  order  of  attachment  if  the  docu- 
ment  is  not  paid  when  it  falls  due,  but  prior  to  such  an  action  | 
the  acceptor  must  be  called  to  court  in  order  to  acknowledge 
his  signature. 

The  student  interested  in  this  subject  may  consult  “ Present 
and  Past  Banking  in  Mexico,”  by  Walter  Flaiius  Me  Caleb;  also 
“ Trading  with  Mexico,”  by  Wallace  Thompson;  for  sale  by  the 
American  Book  and  Printing  Co.,  Ave.  Madero,  25,  Mexico 
City. 


Shops . 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route . 244e 


Money  Exchanges  ( cambios  de  diner o)  exist  in  many  places  in  the  city, 
but  better  rates  can  usually  be  obtained  at  the  aforementioned  banks. 
Beware  of  counterfeit  money  when  dealing  with  unknown  and  irresponsible 
parties.  Silver  money  is  often  discounted. 

Shops  (comp.  p.  lxix).  Many  of  the  Mexico  City  shops  and  stores  com- 
pare favorably  with  the  best  of  those  in  New  York,  Paris,  and  London. 
English  is  spoken  in  most  of  them,  prices  are  fixed  (no  haggling),  and  stocks 
are  unusually  attractive.  While  certain  articles  are  (because  of  excessive  im- 
port duties)  higher  than  similar  ones  in  the  U.  S.  A.,  others,  on  the  contrary, 
are  materially  cheaper.  Because  of  this,  travellers  often  find  it  to  their 
advantage  to  stock  up  while  in  Mexico.  The  notorious  fact  that  Americans, 
Frenchmen  and  others  can  often  buy  home  manufactured  products  cheaper 
abroad  (because  of  tariff  protection)  than  they  can  at  home,  is  exemplified 
in  Mexico  — where  the  cheapness  of  the  money  limits  the  buying  power 
of  the  people  and  where  prices  must  be  quoted  within  their  reach. 

Prominent  among  the  things  cheaper  in  Mexico  than  in  the  U.  S.  A.,  are 
diamonds,  pearls  (which  are  found  in  Mexican  waters  — comp.  La  Paz, 
p.  86)  and  gems  of  all  kinds  (which  pay  an  import  duty  by  weight,  rather 
than  value),  jewelry,  fine  laces,  linen  goods  (much  beautiful  drawn-linen 
is  made  in  Mexican  convents,  etc.),  French  lingerie  and  many  articles  ©f 
women’s  wear,  fine  European  glassware,  etc.,  paintings,  and  a number  of 
things  on  display  in  the  jewelry  stores,  department  stores,  antique  shops, 
etc.  A very  material  saving  can  be  effected  by  buying  fine  Panama  Hats  in 
Mexico,  where  they  are  always  in  style  and  are  much  worn.  Mexican  Opals 
are  known  everywhere  for  their  brilliancy  and  (the  best)  durability.  Some 
of  them  are  equal  to  those  of  Hungary  and  the  Ural  Mts. 

The  fine  Mexican  Zarapes  are  unique,  and  the  tightly  woven  ones  can 
be  used  either  as  blankets  or  rugs.  The  strongest  sunlight  fails  to  start  the 
vegetable  dyes  used  in  the  coloring  of  the  best  ones,  which  usually  are  so 
thick  that  they  will  hold  water  temporarily.  These  (as  well  as  other  articles) 
should  always  be  bought  of  reputable  dealers  who  will  guarantee  quality, 
since  certain  unscrupulous  persons  show  the  Indian  makers  of  them  how 
to  mix  horsehair  with  the  excellent  Mexican  wool,  and  this  materially 
decreases  the  life  and  wearing  quality  of  the  finished  article.  The  heavy, 
closely  woven  Mex.  bed  blankets  made  in  the  Mex.  mills  wear  like  iron  and 
are  superior  to,  and  cheaper  than,  the  foreign  article. 

Many  beautiful  examples  of  old  Chinese  procelains  are  sometimes  to  be 
found  in  the  antique  shops,  relics  of  the  early  days  when  richly  laden  gal- 
leons took  the  silver  from  Mexican  mines  to  exchange  for  the  opulent  prod- 
ucts of  the  Philippines  and  Cathay.  Rare  and  immensely  valuable  paint- 
ings by  early  European  masters  still  exist  in  out-of-the-way  plac  es  in  Mexico, 
while  many  beautiful  and  romantic  relics  of  the  Maximilian  epoch  and 
the  early  Spanish  occupation  (old  jewelry,  porcelains,  laces,  mantillas, 
decorated  fans,  embroideries,  church  vestments,  iron  chests,  silver  can- 
delabra, miniatures,  etc.,  etc.)  can  be  had  in  the  best  antique  shops.  Unlike 
the  Japanese  and  Chinese  (as  well  as  most  Europeans),  the  Mexicans  are 
not  good  imitators  of  antiques,  and  no  factories  for  their  production  exist 
in  the  Republic.  An  antique  in  Mexico,  unless  it  be  an  imitation  of  crude 
pottery  or  something  of  that  sort,  usually  is  an  antique. 

Ma,ny  of  the  Shops  in  the  Capital  have  signs  placed  in  prominent  places 
advising  customers  that  no  goods  will  be  exchanged  after  they  have  left  the 
store.  American  women  in  general  like  the  liberal  spirit  of  the  big  Ameri- 
can stores,  where  allowance  is  made  for  a change  of  mind,  ideas  or  plans, 
and  where  goods  are  cheerfully  exchanged;  so  in  making  the  list  which  fol- 
lows, the  author  has  kept  this  preference  in  mind.  The  shops  listed  have 
been  selected  with  scrupulous  attention  to  the  needs  of  the  traveller  and 
the  trustworthiness  of  the  dealer.  The  writer  believes  each  to  be  the  best  in 
his  respective  line,  and  he  unequivocally  recommends  them. 

Antique  Shops.  The  Aztec  Land,  Ave.  Madero,  24  (PL  G,  4).  — The  Sonora 
New o Co.,  Ave.  Madero  17  (PI.  G,  4).  Fixed  prices;  fair  treatment. 

Jewelry  Stores.  La  Perla  (Diener  Hermanos,  Sues.,  S.  en  C.),  Ave. 
Madero  38  (PI.  G,  4).  Finest  in  the  Republic  and  best  liked  by  Americans. 
Agents  for  American  and  Swiss  watches. 

Department  Stores  (similar  to  the  great  establishments  of  New  York 
and  Boston),  El  Palacio  de  Hierro  (The  Iron  Palace),  Ave.  5 de  Febrero 
and  4a  Capuchinas  (PI.  G,  4).  English  spoken  in  all  departments.  Fixed 
prices.  Largest  and  best  of  its  class  in  the  Republic. 


24.4/  Route  J$.  MEXICO  CITY  Cigars  and  Cigarettes. 

Mexican  Cigars  and  Cigarettes  (comp.  p.  lxxvi)  are  on  sale  almost  every- 
where throughout  the  city  at  the  tobacconists  ( tabaquerias ).  Mexico  is  a 
land  of  good  cigars  and  cigarettes,  and  they  add  materially  to  the  pleasure 
of  a tobacco-lover’s  sojourn  in  the  country.  Cabbage  stogies,  deadly  ‘two- 
fers’  and  alfalfa  Havanas  are  unknown  in  this  land  where  tobacco  was 
first  cultivated,  and  where  its  charms  were  known  to  Montezuma’s  courtiers 
a century  or  more  before  the  Dutch  bought  Manhattan  Island  from  the  Five 
Nations.  Foreigners  are  the  largest  consumers  of  the  native  cigars  (puros), 
and  as  these  are  apt  to  be  a trifle  stronger  than  the  average  American  cigar, 
the  traveller  may  like  his  to  be  claro , or  Colorado , or  Colorado  claro  (mild) 
rather  than  maduro  (strong).  A fine  cigar  that  would  cost  50  cents  in  New 
York  can  be  bought  here  for  half  that  price  or  less. 

The  Mexican  cigars  best  liked  by  foreigners  generally  are  the  Rica,  Hoja, 
Violeta,  and  Sin  Rival  brands,  made  by  Gustavo  Mayer  & Co.,  Orizaba 
(State  of  Vera  Cruz),  and  La  Prueba  bra?ids  of  Balsa  Hermanos  (brothers) 
of  Vera  Cruz  (State  of  Vera  Cruz) . As  both  of  these  makes  are  often  im- 
itated, the  traveller,  when  buying  cigars,  should  be  sure  that  he  is  getting 
the  legitimate  brands.  He  should  never  buy  cigars  from  street  vendors, 
both  for  the  reason  that  he  is  almost  certain  to  be  cheated,  and  also  because 
the  cigars  perhaps  have  been  made  with  unclean  hands.  The  brands  men- 
tioned are  handled  by  the  best  dealers  everywhere.  They  cost  no  more 
than  spurious  grades,  and  they  are  infinitely  better.  The  special  fragrance 
characteristic  of  the  best  Mex.  cigars  (usually  because  they  are  wrapped 
with  imported  Sumatra  leaf)  and  cigarettes  is  peculiarly  pleasing  to  for- 
eigners. The  cigars  wrapped  in  tin  foil  keep  humid  for  many  months.  They 
make  very  acceptable  presents  to  smokers. 

The  Cigarettes  of  El  Buen  Tono  Factory  are  the  most  popular  with 
Americans  and  Mexicans  alike.  Many  cigarettes  are  made  in  the  city, 
some  in  lean  factories,  others  not.  The  Buen  Tono  Factory,  in  the  Plaza 
San  Juan  (PI.  F,  4)  employs  upward  of  1200  men  end  girls,  turns  out  about 
12  million  cigarettes  a day,  and  supplies  the  entire  count rjr.  The  buildings 
cover  five  city  blocks,  and  include  a beautiful  chapel  (for  the  employees), 
colleges  (free  instruction),  a medical  department,  a lithographing  and 
advertising  plant,  Post  and  telegraph  offices,  etc.,  etc.  it  is  one  of  the  sights 
of  the  city.  Tourists  are  welcome,  and  visitors  are  shown  the  intricate 
machines  that  sort,  make,  pack,  and  do  practically  everything  but  smoke 
the  cigarettes.  In  one  of  the  departments  Turkish  cigarettes  are  jnade 
from  imported  Turkish  tobacco.  English  is  spoken.  The  business  was 
established  in  1894  by  Ernest  Pugibet,  a philanthropic  Frenchman  whom 
the  city  has  honored  in  various  ways. 

Photographic  Supplies  (comp.  Photography,  p.  lxxix).  American  Photo 
Supply  Co.,  S.  A.  — Ave.  Madero  40  (PI.  G,  4).  The  largest  photographic 
supply  dealers  in  the  Republic.  Agents  for  Kodaks  and  the  best  American 
and  European  cameras,  accessories,  and  supplies.  Fresh  plates,  films, 
cameras,  etc.  always  in  stock.  Modern  fully  equipped  dark  room  for  devel- 
opment work.  Efficient  Mail  Order  department.  Tourist  trade  a specialty. 
Travellers  in  any  part  of  the  Republic  can  be  assured  that  their  orders  will 
receive  immediate  attention. 

Photographs  (fotografias) . Hugo  Brehme,  Ave.  5 de  Mayo  27  (PI.  G,  4), 
Room  36,  P.  O.  Box  5253.  The  largest  and  most  beautiful  collection  of 
artistic  photographs  in  Mexico.  Dr.  Fischer's  famous  water-color  pictures. 
Specialties : Mexican  views,  postcards,  enlargements.  Of  particular  interest 
to  travellers  who  wish  special  views,  or  photographs  with  which  to  illustrate 
articles  descriptive  of  the  country  or  its  people.  English,  German,  Spanish 
spoken. 

Bookstores  ( lihrerios ).  American  Book  & Printing  Co.,  Ave.  Madero 
25  (PI.  G,  4).  Largest  stock  of  books  in  Mexico.  American  magazines  and 
newspapers.  Books  relating  to  Mexico  — Mex.  Laws  and  English  transla- 
tions. Guidebooks;  grammars;  dictionaries;  publishers  of  the  classified 
Business  Directory  of  the  City  and  Republic.  Printing,  Lithographing. 
Bookbinding  and  Engraving  plants.  Stationery  and  supplies.  Society  and 
business  stationery.  — The  Aztec  Land,  Ave.  Madero  24.  Books  on  Mexico; 
fiction,  etc.  — Second-hand  Bookstores  abound  in  the  city,  usually  small 
stalls  tucked  away  in  the  portales  or  plastered  to  the  sides  of  buildings. 
English  is  not  always  spoken  in  them,  and  Spanish  books  generally  con- 
stitute their  stock  in  trade. 


Newspapers  and  Theatres . MEXICO  CITY  1$.  Rte.  244*7 

American  Drug  Store  (farmada,  drogueria).  Sanborn’s,  Ave.  Madero  4 
(in  the  beautiful  House  of  Tiles,  referred  to  under  Restaurants).  Modern, 
American.  Many  specialties.  Registered  chemists. 

Men’s  and  Women’s  Outfitters  (clothing,  hats,  shoes,  shirts,  etc.,  etc.). 
The  Sonora  News  Co.,  Ave.  Madero  17  (PI.  G,  4).  — El  Palacio  de  Hierro, 
Ave.  5 de  Febrero  and  4a  Capuchinas  (PI.  I,  4).  — W.  F.  Ford,  Gante  1. 

Hat  Store  (sombrereria) . Fine  Panama  Hats,  American,  Mexican  and 
other  hats.  Agents  for  John  B.  Stetson  and  other  Amer.  manufacturers. 
Tardan,  Plaza  Constitucion  5 & 7 (PI.  H,  4). 

Household  Supplies  (China,  glassware,  crystalware,  lamps,  kitchenware, 
cutlery,  electrical  fittings  and  complete  outfits  for  housekeeping,  art  goods) , 
Loeb  Hermanos,  Cor.  Ave.  Madero  and  2d  la  Palma. 

Newspapers  (periodicos) . El  Universal  (Felix  F.  Palavicini,  founder 
and  publisher),  a newsy,  ably  written  morning  daily,  with  many  Associated 
Press  ( prensa  asociada)  despatches,  stands  at  the  head  of  the  vernacular 
papers  of  the  capital.  Published  by  the  Compafiia  Periodistica  Nacional 
S.  A.,  which  also  publishes  El  Universal  Grdfico,  the  most  popular  evening 
newspaper;  El  Universal  Ilustrado  (an  excellent  illustrated  weekly),  and 
El  Universal  Taurino  (the  bull-fighters’  chronicle).  All  in  Spanish. 

The  best  Monthly  Review  of  Industry,  Commerce,  and  Comment,  is  the 
widely  known  and  internationally  circulated  Pulse  of  Mexico  (J.  C.  Kemp 
Van  Ee,  Jr.,  Editor;  Stanley  W.  Sotcher,  Manager),  offices  at  Gante  14. 
The  well-written  articles  on  finance,  commerce,  industry,  politics,  local 
affairs,  automobile  trips,  oil  development,  etc.,  etc.,  are  of  peculiar  interest 
to  foreigners.  — Le  Courrier  du  Mexique,  Ave.  Republica  de  Guatemala  34, 
is  the  organ  of  the  numerous  French  colony.  — The  Gov’t  organ  is  El 
Diario  Oficial  de  los  Estados  Unidos  Mexicanos.  More  than  a score  of  news- 
papers are  published  in  the  capital.  For  their  local  addresses  consult  the 
directory.  — Certain  of  the  vernacular  papers  print  English  sections.  The 
different  Chambers  Of  Commerce  issue  Bulletins  and  other  literature  of 
interest  to  foreigners.  — A curious  effect  of  the  Great  War  was  that  it 
made  of  the  Mexicans  a reading  people.  Now  a number  of  excellent  periodi- 
cals cater  to  their  desire  for  world  news.  — The  Mexico  Times,  a weekly 
newspaper  (in  English)  represents  American  interests  in  the  city. 

f.  Theatres  and  Places  of  Amusement. 

Theatres  (comp.  p.  xcvi).  The  Tedtro  Nacional  (PI.  G,  4),  a government 
undertaking  of  considerable  magnitude  and  described  in  detail  at  p.  326c 
will,  when  completed,  be  the  largest  and  finest  theatre  in  the  Republic.  It 
will  be  devoted  exclusively  to  grand  opera.  This  is  at  present  shown  at  the 
Tedtro  Colon  (4th  Calle  de  Bolivar  — PI.  G,  4).  — The  Virginia  Fabregas 
(la  Calle  de  Donceles,  PI.  G,  4),  opera  and  drama. — Esperanza  Iris  (2a 
Donceles  36,  PI.  G,  4).  — Theatres  of  the  ‘ genero  chico'  class,  where  vaude- 
ville, zarzuelas  and  one-act  tandas  are  given  are  the  Tedtro  Principal  (3a 
Bolivar,  PI.  G,  4).  - — The  Ideal  (la  Dolores  8,  PI.  G,  4).  — The  Lirico  (3a 
Medinas,  PI.  G,  4). 

Moving  Pictures  ( cines , cinemas,  cinematdgrafos ) are  increasingly  popular 
with  the  public,  and  the  stranger  unfamiliar  with  the  Spanish  language  usu- 
ally gets  more  entertainment  from  them  than  from  the  local  theatres. 
Certain  of  the  cinemas  in  the  city  are  good;  many  are  too  poor  and  sensa- 
tional to  suit  the  American  taste.  The  crowds  in  the  small,  stuffy,  ill-venti- 
lated places  should  be  rigorously  avoided.  Unquestionably  the  best,  highest 
class  and  most  popular  with  foreigners  and  the  better  class  Mexicans  is 
the  large,  handsome,  beautifully  decorated 

Teatro  Olimpia,  Ave.  16  de  Septiembre  9,  facing  the  American  Club.  It 
is  the  most  modern  of  all  the  moving  picture  houses  in  the  Repub.;  clean, 
well  ventilated  and  patterned  after  the  best  houses  of  this  class  in  the 
U.  S.  A.  (American  management,  etc.).  The  pictures  shown  are  of  a high 
order.  The  programme  changes  frequently.  The  large  Robert  Morton 
orchestral  organ  is  the  finest  of  its  kind  south  of  the  Rio  Grande.  The 
Sunday  (and  other  times)  Concerts  given  here  are  to  Mexico  City  what  the 
Symphony  Orchestra  is  to  Boston.  Patronized  almost  exclusively  by  the 
best  society  of  the  capital,  the  diplomatic  corps,  foreign  tourists  and  others. 
— Smaller  Moving  Picture  houses  under  the  same  management  are  The 
Salon  Rojo,  Cor.  Ave.  Madero  and  the  Calle  Bolivar  (also  presents  the 


244 h Route  1+2.  MEXICO  CITY  Churches  and  Festivals, 


best  American  pictures),  the  Buen  Tono,  and  others  in  the  city  and  suburbs. 
Popular  prices.  The  celebrated  CircuitO  Olimpia,  S.  A.,  managing  directors 
of  the  tedtro  olimpia,  supply  American  films  to  many  theatres  throughout 
the  Republic. 

Bull-Ring  ( Plaza  de  Toros  — PI.  E,  6.  — comp.  p.  xcvii),  in  the  Colonial 
Condesa,  about  2 M.  S.-W.  of  the  Plaza  Mayor  (any  Colonia  Condesa  tram- 
car)  . Tickets  are  sold  at  the  entrance  and  in  the  various  despachos  (offices) 
throughout  the  city.  The  best  fights  usually  are  on  Sundays  and  dias  de 
fiesta;  they  are  widely  advertised,  by  hand-bills,  wall-posters,  in  the  news- 
papers, etc.  The  building  has  a seating  capacity  of  20,000.  Seats  in  the 
shade  ( sombra ) are  considerably  more  expensive  than  those  in  the  sun 
(eZ  sol ) — which  have  the  disadvantage  of  being  the  favorites  of  the  un- 
washed proletariat. 

Basque-Ball  Game  ( Juego  de  Pelota , comp.  p.  cxiii)  in  the  Fronton  Na- 
tional, Calle  de  Iturbide  No.  19  (PI.  F,  4).  See  hand-bills  and  the  newspapers 
for  advertisements  of  functions. 

Horse-Races  ( Carreras  de  caballos ),  during  the  winter  season  at  the  Hip6- 
dromo,  in  the  Colonia  Condesa  (PI.  C,  7).  Any  Condesa  car  goes  near  the 
entrance.  Not  far  from  the  Bull-ring.  The  betting  system  usually  in  vogue 
is  the  Pari  Mutual.  Horses  are  brought  from  the  U.  S.  A.,  and  the  races 
often  are  exciting.  The  president  of  the  Republic  and  his  entourage  fre- 
quently attend  the  meets.  From  the  fine  grandstand  one  commands  an 
excellent  new  of  Popocatepetl  and  Iztaccihuatl.  — The  presidential  box  is 
almost  opposite  the  judges  stand  (the  starting  post)  in  the  new  grandstand. 

Golf  Links.  The  best  are  at  the  Country  Club,  described  at  p.  407.  A 
new  and  beautiful  course  is  being  laid  out  in  the  Chapultepec  Heights  Colony 
(see  the  Plan  of  Chapultepec  Park  at  p.  380). 

Promenades  and  Driveways.  The  most  fashionable  promenade  and  corso 
of  the  city  is  the  beautiful  Paseo  de  la  Reforma  (PI.  E,  5.  — p.  372)  and  its 
prolongation  through  Chapultepec  Park.  Much  frequented  on  Sundays 
and  dias  de  fiesta.  At  stated  hours,  usually  about  twilight,  the  finest  turnouts 
and  the  61ite  of  the  capital  drive  out  the  Paseo  and  return  through  its  E. 
prolongation,  the  Ave?iidas  Juarez  and  F.  I.  Madero  to  the  Plaza  de  la  Con- 
stitution, where  the  procession  turns  and  retraces  its  route.  The  display  of 
fine  cars,  beautiful  toilettes  and  more  attractive  people  is  alluring.  The 
handsome  Alameda  (PI.  F,  4.  — p.  327)  is  rendered  doubly  attractive  on 
Sunday  mornings  by  delightful  music  (military  band,  free),  by  joyous 
throngs,  and  a wealth  of  sunshine  and  flowers. 

g.  Churches.  Church  Festivals. 

Churches.  Unless  the  traveller  is  concerned  with  the  historical  asso- 
ciations which  cling  to  the  fifty  or  more  churches  (comp.  p.  cxiv)  in  Mex- 
ico City,  but  a few  of  them  will  repay  the  time  spent  in  studying  them. 
Architecturally  the  minor  churches  differ  but  little  from  each  other,  and 
unless  one  is  interested  in  the  Catholic  religion  and  its  many  phases  — as 
portrayed  by  different  native  congregations  and  priestlj7  display — or  in  the 
details  of  construction  which  serve  sometimes  to  differentiate  churches 
and  chapels,  one  will  do  well  to  select  the  few  really  worth  studying  and 
plan  to  devote  but  a passing  glance  to  the  others.  The  majority  of  tour- 
ists visit  churches  usually  to  see  the  pictures  and  art-objects  they  may 
contain.  Albeit  before  the  Reform  Laws  (p.  coxix)  some  of  the  Mex. 
churches  were  veritable  museums  and  art-galleries  combined,  the  sub- 
sequent sequestration  and  nationalization  of  ecclesiastical  property 
swept  many  of  them  clean,  so  that  the  lover  of  old  paintings  will  be  best 
repaid  by  a visit  to  the  San  Carlos  Academy  of  Fine  Arts  (described  at 
p.  310),  whither  the  majority  of  the  church  pictures  went  when  the 
churches  and  convents  were  exclaustrated.  Certain  of  the  metropolitan 
churches — as  well  as  some  of  those  in  the  country  cities  and  towns  — 
possess  pictures  well  worth  seeing,  and  these  are  referred  to  in  their 
proper  places  in  the  Handbook. 

In  architectural  excellence,  as  well  as  in  its  possession  of  notable  pic- 
tures, the  Cathedral  (and  the  adjoining  Sagrario  Metropolitan o)  stands  at 
the  head  of  the  churches  of  the  capital,  and  it  embodies,  in  a composite 
form,  all  or  nearly  all  the  distinctive  features  of  the  remainder.  The  Sa- 
grario possesses  the  most  elaborate  Churrigueresque  exterior  in  the  city. 


Churches  and  Festivals.  MEXICO  CITY  1$.  Route.  244 i 


and  after  it  comes  the  ch.  of  La  Santisima  Trinidad  (p.  365).  The  best 
example  ot  the  Baroque  is  the  Dominican  Church  of  Santo  Domingo  (p. 
353),  the  one-time  stronghold  of  the  Inquisition.  The  sturdy  Early  Fran- 
ciscan Style  can  best  be  studied  in  the  massive  proportions  of  the 
Church  of  San  Francisco  (p.  321),  while  the  adjacent  ch.  of  San  Felipe  de 
Jesus  is  perhaps  the  best  exponent  of  a Romanesque  exterior  with  a 
modern  adaptation  of  the  Estilo  Bizantino.  The  old  Jesuit  strongholds  of 
La  Profesa.  (p.  318)  and  of  Nuestra  Sehora  de  Loreto  (p.  362)  are  always 
interesting  to  the' traveller,  if  only  for  the  reason  that  one  side  of  each  has 
sunk  so  far  below  the  pavement  that  they  lean  over  at  an  angle  almost  as 
acute  as  that  of  the  Leaning  Tower  of  Pisa.  San  Hipolito  (p.  335)  is  so 
intimately  associated  with  the  historical  events  of  the  Conquest  that  few 
travellers  omit  to  visit  it,  if  only  to  place  themselves  in  mental  touch  with 
the  stirring  episodes  of  that  transcendental  event.  The  literatist  usually 
considers  a pilgrimage  to  Mexico  City  incomplete  until  he  has  threaded 
the  offensive  streets  that  lead  to  the  equally  repulsive  little  Church  of 
San  Geronimo  (p.  368),  with  its  conventual  cell  where  the  sad  but  talented 
Sor  Juana  Ines  de  la  Cruz  (the  “Mexican  Muse”)  passed  her  last  days  in 
1695.  The  traveller  who  fails  to  drink  in  the  absorbing  beauty  of  the  old 
facade  of  the  San  Agustin  Church  (now  the  National  Library,  described 
at  p.  344)  misses  one  of  the  most  exquisite  things,  in  ecclesiastical  archi- 
tecture, in  the  Republic. 

The  few  small  churches  that  have  been  left  out  of  the  Handbook  are 
of  no  interest  or  merit. 

The  Church  Festivals  of  Mexico  City  are  among  the  most  important 
in  the  Republic,  and  they  still  attract  crowds  of  strangers,  though  they 
have  lost  much  of  their  former  brilliancy.  Of  equal  importance,  and 
usually  of  much  greater  interest,  are  the  national  celebrations  on 
May  5 and  Sept.  15  and  16.  Both  are  marked  by  the  firing  of  many 
salutes,  the  raising  of  the  national  emblem  over  the  government  buildings 
and  private  residences,  by  the  ringing  of  church-bells,  and  by  splendidly 
spectacular  military  parades  — which  the  visiting  stranger  should  try 
not  to  miss.  Programs  are  usually  printed  several  days  in  advance  in  the 
newspapers.  On  these  holidays  the  street-car  routes  are  changed  to  suit 
the  convenience  of  the  paraders,  and  a general  business  holiday  is  ob- 
served. The  review  of  the  fine  corps  of  Rurales  (p.  lxv)  is  particularly 
worth  seeing.  For  a detailed  list  of  certain  of  the  most  observed  festivals 
see  p.  cxix.  Also  p.  238. 

Protestant  Churches  ( iglesias  protestantes) . Christ  Church,  Calle  Nuevo 
Mexico  134 • — Methodist  Episcopal  Church  South,  Balderas  4J-  — Presby- 
terian Church,  Cor.  Mina  and  Heroes.  — Trinity  Methodist  Episcopal 
Ch.,  Gante  5.  — Union  Ch.,  Humboldt  50.  — First  Ch.  of  Christ,  Scientist, 
5 de  Mayo  6.  — As  the  address  of  the  latter  may  change,  the  traveller  is 
advised  to  consult  the  local  directory. 

Chief  Attractions.  Plaza  Mayor  (p.  261)  ; Cathedral  (p.  272)  ; 
Academia  de  Bellas  Artes  (p.  310);  Museo  Nacional  (p.  298);  Palacio 
Nacional  (p.  267);  Alameda  (p.  327);  Paseo  de  la  Reforma  (p.  372);  Cas- 
tillo y Parque  de  Chapultepec  (p.  379);  Biblioteca  Nacional  (p.  344); 
Colegio  de  San  Yldefonso  (p.  360);  Arbol  de  la  Noche  Triste  (p.  418); 
Iglesia  y Pocito  de  Guadalupe  (p.  392);  Iglesia  de  San  Francisco  (p.  321); 
view  from  the  Cathedral  Tower  and  from  the  Colegio  Militar  at  Chapul- 
tepec; the  old  School  of  Mines  (p.  330) ; the  leaning  Church  of  La  Profesa 
(p.  318);  La  Viga  (p.  350);  The  Pedregal  (p.  411);  El  Panteon  de  San 
Fernando  (p.  337);  Instituto  Geoldgico  Nacional  (p.  341);  the  Archives 
and  the  portraits  of  the  Spanish  Viceroys , in  the  Palacio  Municipal  (p. 
292);  the  Art  Rooms  (free)  of  the  Sonora  News  Company  (p.  320). 

h.  List  of  Chief  Collections  and  Other  Sights. 

Academia  Nacional  de  San  Carlos  (National  Picture  Gallery),  p.  310, 
free  every  day  (closed  Saturday)  from  10  to  1.  This  gallery  and  the 
Museo  are  apt  to  be  packed  with  the  lower-class  natives  on  Sundays  and 
dias  de  fiesta. 

Chapultepec  Castle  (p.  386).  Permits  (granted  only  between  Oct.  and 
April,  when  the  President  occupies  his  city  residence)  from  one’s  Consul 
or  from  the  Intendente  del  Palacio , at  the  Palacio  Nacional.  The  traveller 


244;  Route  42.  MEXICO  CITY  Chief  Attractions . 


should  not  fail  to  make  his  application  well  in  advance,  as  there  is  usually 
a waiting-list. 

Escuela  National  de  Ingenieros  (Colegio  de  Mineria,  or  School  of  Mines, 
p.  330),  free  daily,  10  to  5.  Rich  collection  of  minerals  and  paleontological 
specimens. 

Instituto  Geologico  National  (p.  341),  free  daily,  10  to  5.  Geological 
and  other  specimens. 

Museo  National  de  Artilleria  (p.  369),  free  daily  except  Sunday,  10  to  5. 
War  trophies.  Not  specially  interesting  to  the  tourist. 

Museo  National  (p.  29S),  highly  interesting,  daily  (free)  except  Satur- 
day (closed)  from  10  to  1.  (The  hours  of  admission  are  subject  to  change.) 

Museo  Comercial  (p.  328),  free  daily,  9 to  1.  A collection  of  the  products 
of  the  country,  with  free  catalogue. 

Palacio  Municipal  (p.  292),  with  some  interesting  records  of  Spanish- 
Colonial  times,  daily  (free),  10  to  5. 

Palacio  National  (p.  267).  Card  of  admission  (free)  from  the  Intendente 
(at  the  Intendencia ) del  Palacio , in  the  palace.  The  courts  (or  patios ) 
are  always  open. 

Pantedn  de  San  Fernando  (p.  337),  daily,  9 to  5. 

The  tourist  may  like  to  remember  that  any  Spanish  building  that  bears 
the  Hapsburg  Arms  must  of  course  belong  either  to  the  16th  or  17th  cent. 
These  arms  are  in  the  form  of  an  escutcheon  surrounded  by  the  wings  of  a 
double-headed  eagle  regardant:  at  the  sinister  chief  point  is  a tower,  and 
below,  at  the  sinister  base  point,  a lion  rampant.  At  the  dexter  chief  point 
is  a lion  and  at  the  dexter  base  point  is  a tower.  The  death  of  Charles  II  in 
1700,  and  the  accession  of  Felipe  V,  ended  the  Hapsburg  line  and  inaugu- 
rated the  Bourbon  dynasty  in  Spain.  The  armorial  symbol  of  the  Bourbons , 
as  usually  seen  in  Mexico,  is  the  central  shield  of  the  somewhat  elaborate 
coat-of-arms,  with  the  lions  and  castles  in  positions  opposite  to  the  above, 
with  a Fleur-de-lis  at  thefesse,  or  heart  point. 

For  additional  information  under  this  head  consult:  Memoria  del  Ayunta- 
mientode  1897,  by  Lie.  D.  Juan  Bribiesca,  p.  47;  and  various  books  in  the 
Archives  of  the  Palacio  Municipal  at  Mexico  City. 

1.  Disposition  of  Time. 

How  to  spend  10  days  in  Mexico  City  to  the  best  advantage. 

1st  day.  Monday.  Breakfast  at  Sanborn’s  (The  House  of  Tiles — p,  326). 
Walk  up  the  Avenida  Madero  to  the  Church  of  La  Profesa  (p.  318)  with 
its  Leaning  Tower,  thence  to  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucidn  (p.  265).  Inspect 
the  Portales  and  their  many  quaint  shops  and  puestos  (stalls).  The  Cathe- 
dral (p.  272),  and  the  Sagrario  Metropolitano  (p.  290).  View  from  the 
Cathedral  Tower.  Inspect  the  .Aztec  Ruins  one  square  N.  of  the  N.-W. 
corner  of  the  Palacio  Nacional,  at  the  corner  of  the  Calles  Seminario  and 
Santa  Teresa.  Flower  Market  (p.  293).  Stroll  down  the  Ave.  Cinco  de 
Mayo  to  the  Alatmda  (p.  327).  Luncheon  at  the  Hotel  Princess  (p.  235). 
Return  to  the  National  Post-Office  (p.  328),  the  new.  National  TheaLie 
(p.  326c),  and  the  old  College  of  Mines  (p.  330),  with  its  fine  meteorites. 
Inspect  the  handsome  new  building  (just  across  the  street)  of  the  Secretaria 
de  Comunicaciones  y Obras  Publicas.  Dinner  at  Sanborn's  (Grill,  in  the 
balcony).  Moving  Pictures  at  the  Tedtro  Olimpia  (p.  244#)  in  the  evening. 

2d  day.  Tuesday.  One  full  day  at  least  should  be  given  to  the  Monte  de 
Picdad  (National  Pawn  Shop,  p.  295),  the  National  Museum  (p.  298),  and 
the  National  Picture  Gallery  (Acad6mia  Nacional  de  San  Carlos,  p.  310). 
If  time  permits,  in  the  afternoon  visit  the  Commercial  Museum  (p.  328), 
see  The  Bronze  Equestrian  Statue  of  Charles  IV  (p.  273),  and  stroll  down 
the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma  (p.  372),  past  the  Statue  to  Christopher  Columbus 
(p.  374),  to  the  handsome  Bronze  Statue  of  Quauhtemotzin,  at  p.  376.  Dinner 
at  the  Hotel  Imperial,  hard  by. 

3d  day.  Wednesday.  Church  and  Plaza  of  Santo  Domingo  (p.  353),  one 
of  the  oldest  and  quaintest  spots  in  the  city,  with  its  (nearby)  National 
School  of  Medicine,  where  the  Inquisition  long  had  its  alleged  Holy  Office. 
The  Portales  (here)  with  its  public  letter-writers.  _ Exterior  of  the  Palacio 
del  Conde  de  Santiago  de  Calimaya  (p.  347).  The  A ational  Library  (p.  344). 
Luncheon  at  the  Hotel  Geneve.  Inspect  the  Bull-Ring  (p.  xcvii),  Hippodrome 
(Races  in  season)  and  the  American  Colony  in  the  afternoon.  Dinner  at 
the  Hotel  Regis  (p.  235). 


Disposition  of  Time.  MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  244 k 


4t.ll  day.  Thursday.  Visit  the  Art  Rooms  of  the  Sonora  News  Co.  (Hotel 
Iturbide,  p.  244c)  and  the  Art  Rooms  of  the  Aztec  Land  (p.  244e).  Fine  col- 
lection of  Mexican  views  at  the  Art  Rooms  of  Hugo  Brehme,  Ave.  5 de  Mayo 
27  (p.  244/).  Luncheon  at  Sanborn's.  Palacio  Nacional  (p.  267),  and  the 
Palacio  Municipal  (p.  292).  Mexican  dinner  at  the  Guardiola  Hotel  (p.  235). 

5th  day.  Friday,  a.  m.  Church  and  Shrine  of  Our  Lady  of  Guadalupe 
(p.  392).  p.  m.  Coyoacdn  (p.  408),  Palace  of  Cortes  (p.  409),  Church  of 
San  Juan  Bautista  (p.  411),  The  Pedregal  (p.  411).  On  the  return  inspect 
the  Country  Club  (tea,  etc.)  at  Churubusco,  described  at  p.  407.  Theatre 
or  Moving  Pictures  in  the  evening. 

6th  day.  Saturday.  Tram-cars  to  Xochimilco  and  the  Floating  Gardens 
(p.  350).  Luncheon  at  the  native  Inn  opposite  the  Pumping  Station  ( Xochi- 
milco).  If  time  permits  on  the  return,  inspect  the  Cigarette  Factory  of  El 
Buen  Tono,  at  the  Plaza  de  San  Juan  (p.  370).  Dinner  at  the  Hotel  An - 
sonia. 

7th  day.  Sunday.  Early  mass  at  the  Church  of  San  Felipe  de  Jesus  (p. 
325).  See  the  adjacent  Church  of  San  Francisco  (p.  321).  Breakfast  at 
Sanborn's  (special  breakfasting  place  Sunday  of  the  wealth  and  beauty  of 
the  capital).  Inspect  the  Thieves  Market  (p.  296).  Proceed  from  the 
Plaza  Mayor , by  tram-car,  to  Chapultepec,  reaching  there  not  later  than 
11  or  11.30  a.  m.  Music.  Fine  parade  through  the  park.  Luncheon  at  the 
Cafe  Chapultepec.  Stroll  through  the  forest  in  the  afternoon.  Late  after- 
noon and  twilight  parade  on  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma , the  Avenida  Judrez, 
and  Ave.  Madero.  — Protestant  Churches  mentioned  at  p.  244 i. 

8th  day.  Monday.  Motor  through  the  Puente  de  Alvarado  (p.  339),  to 
Popotla  and  see  the  Tree  of  the  Dismal  Night  (p.  418).  Thence  to  Chapul- 
tepec, visiting  the  Castle  (p.  386)  and  Forest.  Thence  through  the  Chapul- 
tepec Heights  Colony  (fine  views,  etc.)  to  Tacubaya  (p.  417),  Mixcoac  (p. 
416),  and  San  Angel  (p.  412).  Lunch  and  Tea  at  the  beautiful  San  Angel 
Inn.  New  archaeological  discoveries  in  the  Pedregal  (p.  412).  Pelota  Game 
(p.  244ft)  in  the  evening. 

9tli  day.  Tuesday.  By  train  (Mexican  Rly.)  or  motor  to  the  Pyramids 
of  San  Judn  Teotihuacdn  (p.  425),  returning  (motor  only)  via  the  old  Church 
of  Acolman  (p.  428). 

10th  day.  Wednesday.  Tram-cars  or  motor  to  El  Desierto  (p.  417). 

This  time  can  be  extended  to  include  the  delightful  excursion  to  Cuer- 
navaca (p.  436)  and  the  Cacahuamilpa  Caverns,  to  Atzcapotzalco  (p.  419), 
to  San  Bdrtolo  Naucdlpam  (p.  191),  and  to  various  other  points  of  interest 
in  and  near  the  Valley  of  Mexico. 

Sight-Seeing  Automobiles  leave  certain  of  the  hotels  at  stated  intervals 
for  the  chief  points  of  interest  in  and  near  the  capital.  The  excursion  to 
Cacahuamilpa  can  be  made  easier,  cheaper,  and  with  less  fatigue,  from 
Cuernavaca  (Hotel  Morelos)  as  a base. 

A superficial  idea  of  Mexico  City  can  be  gained  in  three  or  four  days, 
but  fully  that  time  ought  tp  be  devoted  to  the  Museo,  the  National  Pic- 
ture Gallery,  the  Cathedral,  the  Church  and  Shrine  of  Nuestra  Senora  de 
Guadalupe,  and  Chapultepec.  Certain  of  the  minor  churches  are  of  his- 
torical interest;  likewise  the  suburban  towns  of  Tacubaya,  San  Angel, 
Tlalpan,  Coyoacan,  Tacuba,  Azcapotzalco,  and  so  on.  Many  foreign 
visitors  will  wish  to  inspect  the  gigantic  Bull-Ring  (p.  xcvii)  even  if  they 
do  not  witness  the  unadulterated  spectacle  of  a Spanish  bull-fight.  Lovers 
of  baseball  will  be  interested  in  seeing  a pelota  exhibition  (described  at 
p.  cxiii). 

Many  delightful  and  unforgettable  hours  can  be  spent  sauntering  about 
the  old  Aztec  metropolis,  inspecting  the  most  interesting  of  the  city  churches, 
the  old  buildings  which  date  from  the  years  of  the  Conquest, _ and  the  myriad 
minor  attractions.  Most  travellers  will  wish  to  return  again  and  again  to 
the  Cathedral,  the  Sagrario  Metropolitano,  the  National  Museum,  the  San 
Carlos  Picture  Gallery,  the  beautiful  Forest  of  Chapultepec,  Xochimilco , 
Guadalupe  and  others  of  the  important  landmarks. 

In  the  Biblioteca  Nacional,  and  in  the  dusty  archives  of  the  library  in 
the  Palacio  Municipal,  one  can  see  books  and  documents  which  relate  to 
life  in  the  city  a hundred  years  before  the  Pilgrims  sighted  Plymouth,  and 
while  the  conquered  and  embittered  Aztecs  scowled  at  the  mailed  con - 
quistadores  who  stalked  the  streets  of  their  ancient  stronghold.  In  the 
archives  of  the  Palacio  Municipal  one  can  thrill  at  the  sight  of  the  signatures 


244/  Route  MEXICO  CITY  General  Hints. 


of  these  same  Spanish  cavaliers,  of  the  lion-hearted  Cortes,  Alvarado , San- 
doval, and  others  of  the  mailed  host  who  escaped  the  terrors  of  the  Dismal 
Night.  _ 

No  single  city  on  the  American  continent  holds  so  much  of  romantic 
interest  as  does  this  old  Vice-regal  seat  of  Spain  in  the  New  World;  and  in 
none  are  so  many  of  the  older  buildings  and  relics  preserved.  And  it  is 
greatly  to  the  credit  of  the  Mexicans  that  they  have  preserved  them  to 
gratify  their  own  sense  of  the  picturesque  and  their  love  of  the  beautiful. 
In  doing  so  they  have  catered  to  no  foreign  taste;  they  have  followed  their 
own  natural  inclinations. 

J.  General  Hints. 

Mexican  Officials  of  all  classes  welcome  strangers  to  their  country,  and 
usually  will  go  to  almost  any  amount  of  trouble  to  be  of  service  to  them. 
Only  those  of  the  lowest  rank  expect  or  accept  fees.  Any  traveller  who  shows 
a sympathetic  interest  in  Mexico  and  its  people  is  assured  in  advance  of  a 
cordial  welcome.  Officials  from  the  President  down  will  often  stop  in  the 
midst  of  important  work  to  write  letters  of  introduction  to  other  officials, 
in  order  to  help  some  sight-seeing  or  investigating  tourist,  and  archives, 
libraries,  museums,  public  buildings  and  whatnot  are  always  open  to  the 
interested.  There  are  very  few  restrictions  in  Mexico,  for  it  is  doubtful  if 
any  other  person  has  more  real  personal  liberty  than  the  average  Mexican. 

While  certain  of  the  Mexican  customs  may  strike  the  stranger  as  odd,  he 
will  do  well  to  bear  in  mind  that  they  are  the  result  of  long  experience  in 
a somewhat  peculiar  environment,  and  usually  they  have  a very  excellent 
reason  for  their  being. 

In  Mexico  City  the  air  acts  as  a tonic  and  one  feels  much  better  than  at 
sea  level,  but  it  is  wise  to  avoid  over-exertion  of  any  kind.  The  heart  is 
supposed  to  do  double  work  at  this  high  altitude,  and  undue  rushing  about 
is  not  good  for  one. 

It  is  a good  plan  to  keep  gold  and  silver  coins  in  separate  purses,  as  some 
of  them  are  of  a size  and  are  easily  given  out  by  mistake.  — Ostentatious 
display,  on  the  person,  of  jewelry  of  any  kind  sometimes  proves  too  great 
a temptation  for  certain  nimble-fingered  subjects  of  the  lower  class,  and 
the  stranger  who  wears  diamond-encrusted  watch-fobs,  alluring  stick-pins, 
or  flamboyant  watch-chains  is  very  apt  to  lose  them.  Do  not  leave  valuable 
articles  scattered  about  in  the  hotel  room.  The  Spanish  proverb,  La  opor - 
tunidad  hace  al  ladrdn  (opportunity  makes  the  thief)  holds  as  good  in  Mexico 
as  elsewhere.  A mozo  who  gets  15  pesos  a week  often  regards  it  as  good 
business  to  decamp  with  a hundred  dollar  suit  of  clothes  even  if  he  loses 
his  job  thereby.  So  clothing  etc.  should  be  kept  under  lock  and  key. 

The  person  who  buys  alleged  diamonds  of  street  vendors  is  certain  to  be 
cheated.  Fairly  well-dressed  men  often  waylay  strangers  in  the  Alameda, 
where  the  brilliant  sunshine,  filtering  through  the  trees,  imparts  a very 
lively  sparkle  to  a well-cut  crystal.  If  the  vendor’s  price  for  a big  diamond 
be  $150,  offer  him  $1.35  — and  you  will  get  it.  To  eat  candies,  cakes  and 
other  pseudo  goodies  sold  on  the  streets  is  to  invite  typhoid  and  six  weeks 
in  the  hospital. 

The  Drinking  Water  comes  from  deep  springs  at  Xochimilco  and  is 
supposed  to  be  pure;  but  much  of  it  not  unfrequently  acquires  impurities 
from  the  open  tanks  on  the  house  roofs,  where  it  is  stored.  The  safest  plan 
is  to  boil  the  water  before  drinking  it  — unless  it  comes  from  a deep  artesian 
well,  of  which  there  are  a number  in  the  capital.  The  best  hotels  and  restau- 
rants take  special  care  with  the  water  they  serve  to  patrons.  The  Mexicans 
drink  a good  deal  of  beer,  but  impurities  are  apt  to  lurk  in  this  as  well  as  the 
water,  unless  one  knows  the  brands  that  are  made  in  districts  where  the 
water  is  pure.  Orizaba  has  this  reputation.  Drinks  made  locally,  particu- 
larly cheap  bottled  stuff,  should  be  avoided. 

It  is  said  that  food  values  decrease  by  about  one  third  at  the  Mexico  City 
altitude.  This  would  imply  that  one  should  eat  more  than  at  sea  level.  The 
Mexicans  as  a rule  eat  lightly  but  often. 

There  are  very  few  mosquitos  in  Mexico  City,  and  fewer  flies  than  one 
naturally  would  expect  to  find. 

k.  Gesticulation  ( gesticulacwn ). 

Gestures  ( gestos ) are  much  employed  by  Spanish  peoples  to  express 
thoughts  and  feelings  or  to  illustrate  or  emphasize  what  is  said.  By  them  this 


Gesticulation, 


MEXICO  CITY  42.  Route.  244 m 

nimble  art  has  been  refined  to  such  a degree  that  with  certain  individuals 
a look,  a tone,  or  a gesture  is  often  more  eloquent  than  elaborate  speech. 
The  flashing  dark  eye  and  the  extraordinarily  mobile  features  of  the  Mexican 
lend  themselves  with  peculiar  facility  to  this  silent  expression  so  popular 
with  the  race.  Women  in  particular  employ  gestures  as  a sort  of  pantomimic 
addition  to  a surprisingly  extensive  and  expressive  vocabulary.  Gesticula- 
tion usually  adds  vehemence  and  charm  to  Mexican  discourse.  So  expres- 
sive are  the  shrugs  ( encogimientos  de  hombros),  grimaces  ( muecas ),  and 
finger-movements  ( movimientos  digitales ) of  certain  Spanish-speaking  peo- 
ples that  even  the  alien  does  not  mistake  their  meaning. 

While  certain  gestures  are  individual,  others  are  national  in  form  and 
meaning.  The  language  of  the  fan  ( el  abanico ) and  of  love  (de  amor ) are  ex- 
tensive, and  fascinating  in  their  subtlety.  These  can  best  be  acquired  by 
observation  and  practice. 

The  language  of  love  varies  according  to  the  exigencies  of  the  occasion, 
since  a suitor  (amante)  ‘playing  the  bear’  ( haciendo  el  oso)  beneath  or  near 
the  balcony  ( balcon ) of  his  sweetheart  ( dulcinea ),  or  a gallant  ( majo ) carry- 
ing on  a flirtation  (pelando  la  pava ) at  the  barred  window  ( reja ) with  some 
attractive  senorita,  finds  it  necessary  to  adapt  sign-language  to  distance 
and  the  amount  of  discretion  requisite  to  the  situation.  There  is  also  a 
language  of  flowers,  and  of  the  handkerchief,  used  by  sweethearts. 

Some  of  the  most  common  signs  used  in  Mexico  (and  in  Spanish-America 
and  parts  of  Spain)  are: 

A single  hand-clap  (sometimes  accompanied  by  ‘psic’)  calls  a waiter,  a 
street  porter,  a huckster,  etc.,  or  arrests  the  attention  of  a friend.  Applause 
is  also  expressed  by  clapping  the  hands.  Disapproval  is  expressed  by  a hiss. 

The  thumb  and  little  finger  upraised  while  the  fingers  between  swiftly 
wiggle  inward  toward  the  out-turned  palm,  is  the  common  form  of  waving 
a salute  to  a passing  acquaintance  or  friend. 

When  a polite  Mexican  receives  a thing  from  any  one,  or  hands  one  a 
thing,  he  accompanies  the  act  with  a friendly  little  flourish  or  motion  of 
the  hand  difficult  to  describe  but  winning  in  the  act.  As  it  is  by  these  and 
other  actions  that  the  cultured  native  silently  plumbs  the  sentiments  and 
breeding  of  those  he  meets,  the  sympathetic  stranger  is  advised  to  study 
these  national  traits  and  acquire  the  habit  of  employing  them. 

Clapping  the  hand  against  the  hip  means,  “I  give  it  up,”  ‘‘It  can’t  be 
helped.” 

The  hand  raised  with  the  palm  toward  the  face  means,  “Good-bye!” 
“Farewell!” 

The  hand  held  upright,  palm  out,  means,  “Stop!” 

The  wide-open  and  trembling  hand,  held  transversely  to  the  body,  means 
“disgust,  indignation,  or  a plea  for  fairness.” 

The  extended  hands  spread  outward  and  downward  mean  “What’s  the 
use?” 

Rubbing  the  thumb  on  the  upturned  forefinger,  as  if  testing  the  fineness 
of  some  powder,  indicates  that  “money  had  something  to  do  with  it.” 

Pressing  down  the  little  finger  with  the  thumb  of  the  other  hand  means, 
“Here’s  the  thing  in  a nutshell”;  or,  “Believe  me  when  I tell  you.” 

Placing  the  right  hand  slightly  above  the  left,  breast  high,  then  opening 
the  arms  wide,  like  a stroke  in  swimming,  indicates  that  the  party  “washes 
his  hands  of  the  whole  affair,”  and  “will  have  absolutely  nothing  more  to 
do  with  it.” 

The  forefinger  placed  beside  or  curled  over  the  nose  means,  “Mum’s  the 
word,”  “ I warn  you” ; or  it  may  be  employed  to  hide  the  truth  or  the  subtle 
point  of  the  thing  said. 

The  thumb  and  forefinger  touching  at  the  tips  so  as  to  form  an  oval,  with 
the  three  fingers  flaring  upward,  signify  the  “tiniest  bit  of  anything.” 

Stiffening  the  arm  and  jerking  a thumb  toward  a shoulder  implies  strength 
for  any  occasion,  and  is  equal  to  the  American  slapping  of  the  chest. 

The  right  hand  sliding  downward  on  the  palm  of  the  left  signifies  that 
“he  gambles.” 

The  right  arm  upraised  with  the  thumb  and  forefinger  held  out  straight 
as  if  clasping  a cube  about  an  inch  thick,  the  remaining  fingers  doubled 
close  to  the  palm,  form  the  sign  customarily  employed  when  one  wishes 
another  to  halt  a moment,  ora  motorman  to  slow  down  his  car  sufficiently 
to  enable  one  to  board  it.  It  also  means  “ a bit  of  anything,”  or  “ three  fin- 
gers of  a drink.” 


244m  Route  /$. 


MEXICO  CITY 


The  raised  hand  shaken  to  and  fro,  with  the  palm  outward,  signals  a pass- 
ing acquaintance  and  indicates  that  he  is  not  expected  to  stop. 

The  hand  shaken  downward  loosely  and  with  vigor,  just  once,  with  an 
air  of  vexation,  indicates  that  the  gesticulator  has  “forgotten  something.” 
Drawing  the  index-finger  across  the  throat,  accompanied  by  an  appro- 
priate grimace,  carries  the  same  minatory  meaning  expressed  by  English- 
speaking  people. 

A movement  of  the  open  hand,  with  the  palm  outward  and  a gradual  clos- 
ing of  the  fingers,  indicates  that  a person  “is  grasping,”  or  that  “he  will 
appropriate  what  does  not  belong  to  him.” 

Stroking  the  left  forefinger  outward  with  the  right  forefinger,  with  a sort 
of  whittling  motion  toward  the  tip,  repeated  two  or  three  times  means, 
44  Shame  on  you,”  or,  “You  have  no  shame!” 

Shaking  the  hand  wig-wag  fashion,  while  held  upright,  means,  “So,  so.” 
The  closed  fist  struck  against  the  chest  typifies  “extravagant  admiration 
of  a woman.” 

Clinching  the  hand  over  the  face  or  breast  — a feminine  action  — in- 
dicates “shyness,  caution,  modesty,  reserve,  or  fear.” 

The  upright  hand  waving  outward  and  downward  means,  “Nothing 
doing.” 

The  hand  up  with  thumb-side  in,  the  index-finger  crooked,  the  others 
closed,  mean  that  “he  has  grown  thin.”  # 

Clasping  the  hands  before  one,  as  if  in  an  agony  of  doubt,  expresses, 
“My  God!” 

All  the  fingers  pinched  up  and  jerked  toward  the  mouth  or  throat  mean 
“an  invitation  to  dine,”  or  indicate  that  the  person  making  the  motion  is 
“going  to  eat  something.” 

The  little  finger  stiffened  straight  up  like  a horn,  the  three  fingers  clasped 
against  the  palm,  and  the  thumb  jerked  toward  the  open  mouth,  convey 
“an  invitation,”  or  express  an  “intention  to  drink  something.” 

“The  hand  wide  open  and  the  little  finger  and  thumb  wide  apart  bear  a 
rough  resemblance  to  the  cantara,  or  drinking  pitcher.  Held  in  this  manner, 
and  tipped  toward  the  mouth,  the  hand  suggests  a drink,  or  that  plenty  of 
wine  is  about.  When  this  sign  is  made,  the  Spaniard  closes  one  eye,  and 
distorts  his  face  exactly  as  he  would  on  taking  a drink  without  putting  his 
lips  to  the  mouthpiece  of  the  pitcher.” 

The  closed  fist  before  the  mouth,  the  thumb  extended  and  canted  to 
touch  the  lips,  indicates  that  a person  “drinks  too  much.” 

Knocking  the  left  elbow  with  the  right  fist  expresses  that  a person  “is 
stingy.” 

“Doubtfulness”  is  expressed  by  a shrug  of  the  shoulders  accompanied 
by  a questioning  pucker  of  the  lips. 

“Indifference”  is  usually  expressed  by  a shrug  of  the  shoulders,  and  the 
idea  conveyed  that  the  person  is  “not  interested  in  the  matter.” 

Straightening  up  the  body  and  moving  the  head  on  the  shoulders  until 
one  is  reminded  of  the  letter  “S,”  and  at  the  same  time  lifting  up  the  eye- 
lids means,  “This  is  the  finish!”  “God  help  us!”  etc. 

Spanish  peoples  nod  the  head  affirmatively,  and  shake  it  in  negation, 
just  as  Anglo-Saxons  do,  but  the  forefinger  wagged  to  and  fro  in  front  of 
the  face  means  “refusal,”  or  a “decided  no.” 

When  a Spaniard  hears  a noise  he  often  asks  about  it  without  speaking, 
by  wrinkling  his  nose  in  a questioning  way  — as  a rabbit  is  apt  to  do. 

One  person  will  silently  question  another  about  a matter  with  which 
both  are  acquainted,  by  extending  the  hands,  palms  upward,  and  moving 
them  apart  with  a spreading  motion  from  the  elbows. 

The  thumb  placed  on  the  tip  of  the  nose,  and  the  fingers  wiggled  before  the 
face,  express  “unrealized  expectations.” 

“Beckoning  a person  to  approach”  is  usually  accomplished  by  a forward 
wave  of  the  hand  and  arm  upward  and  outward,  then  bringing  the  hand 
downward  and  inward,  almost  closing  the  fingers  — perhaps  repeating  the 
gesture  two  or  three  times. 

Ducking  the  fingers  and  arm  outward  often  means,  “Stop!”  or,  “Come 
here!”  while  the  open  hand  pushed  outward  means,  “Be  off!”  “Go  away!” 
“Get.  out! ” 

When  the  Mexican  or  Spaniard  meets  an  old  friend,  he  puts  an  arm  half 
around  him  and  pats  him  affectionately  on  the  back.  Both  men  and  women 
half  embrace  friends  at  parting. 


THE  FEDERAL  DISTRICT  1,2.  Route . 245 


On  entering  a restaurant  or  any  public  room  where  persons  congregate? 
the  polite  Spanish-speaking  person  bows,  ostensibly  to  the  person  nearest 
the  entrance.  The  salute  is  intended  for  all  present,  and  no  further  intro- 
duction is  necessary  for  the  time  being. 

The  ceremonious  hand-shake  is  the  same  in  Spanish-’  as  in  English- 
speaking  countries,  but  friends  in  the  former  often  clasp  the  thumb.  (From 
Terry’s  Short  Cut  to  Spanish.) 

The  Federal  District  (. Distrito  Federal ),  seat  of  the  su- 
preme federal  power,  the  administrative  and  commercial 
centre  of  the  Republic,  with  a population  of  about  720,000 
and  an  area  of  some  1,200  sqr.  kilom.,  occupies  the  S.-W.  part 
of  the  valley  and  is  bounded  on  the  N.-E.  and  W.  by  the  State 
of  Mexico,  and  on  the  S.  by  the  State  of  Morelos.  For  political 
purposes  it  is  divided  into  six  prefectures  and  one  municipal- 
ity, as  follows : prefectures  of  Guadalupe- Hidalgo,  Azcapotzalco , 
Tacubaya,  Tlalpan,  Xochimilco  and  Coyoacan,  whose  chief 
towns  bear  the  name  of  the  respective  prefectures;  and  the 
municipalidad  of  Mexico,  capital  of  the  Republic,  described 
at  p.  251.  The  distrito  and  the  capital  bear  the  same  relation 
to  the  Mexican  Republic  that  Washington  and  the  District 
of  Columbia  do  to  the  U.  S.  A. 

By  a royal  cedule  of  Dec.  17,  1523,  Charles  V granted  to 
Mexico  City  the  title  of  Muy  Leal,  Insigne  e Imperial  (very 
loyal,  notable  and  imperial),  providing  therewith,  for  the  use  of 
the  Ayuntamiento , a light  blue  shield  (the  color  of  water,  and 
symbolic  of  the  lake  in  which  the  city  stood)  emblazoned  with 
a gilded  castle  at  the  junction  of  three  bridges  (emblematic 
of  the  three  great  causeways  which  connected  the  Aztec 
metropolis  with  the  mainland),  on  two  of  which  were  gilded 
lions  rampant:  the  whole  was  surmounted  by  the  imperial 
crown  and  surrounded  by  a gilded  border  displaying  10  spiny 
pads  (green)  of  the  nopal  cactus. 

In  1821  Independent  Mexico  discarded  the  Spanish  escudos 
and  ordered  them  removed  from  public  buildings.  For  two 
years  the  traditional  eagle  devouring  a serpent  was  used  as 
the  national  emblem.  With  the  fall  of  the  Empire  of  Iturbide, 
a law  (April  14, 1823)  decreed  that  on  the  national  escutcheon 
there  should  figure:  an  eagle  standing  on  its  left  foot  upright 
on  a nopal  springing  from  a rock  on  the  bosom  of  a lake,  and 
clasping  in  its  right  talons  a serpent  which  it  was  in  the  act 
of  destroying  with  its  beak;  and  below  a branch  of  oak  and 
one  of  laurel.  This  is  still  in  use. 

In  1854  the  Ayuntamiento  of  the  city  adopted  the  present 
coat-of-arms : an  azure  shield  displaying  the  eagle,  the  serpent 
and  the  nopal  surmounting  a three-arched  bridge  whose  pillars 
stand  in  the  waters  of  a lake;  below  is  the  wreath  of  oak 
and  laurel. 

For  many  years  certain  of  these  familiar  symbols  embel- 
lished the  old  Mexican  peso  — which,  because  of  its  intrinsic 
worth,  became  the  favorite  circulating  medium  among  mil- 
lions of  Chinese  merchants  along  the  maritime  provinces  of 


246  Route  I#.  VALLEY  OF  MEXICO 


Cathay.  Between  the  time  it  was  issued  in  1868,  and  the 
downfall  of  the  Diaz  government  in  1910,  uncounted  thou- 
sands of  these  pure  silver  dollars  found  their  way  across  the 
Pacific  Ocean.  It  was  the  only  metallic  currency  in  which 
the  astute  Chinese  had  implicit  confidence.  The  design  was 
changed  in  1910,  and  again  in  1921.  The  present  peso  bears 
the  eagle,  the  snake  and  the  cactus,  on  one  side,  and  the 
Phrygian  cap  and  a sunburst  on  the  reverse. 

The  Valley  of  Mexico  (El  Valle  de  Mejico ),  between  N.  lat- 
itude 19°  10'  and  20°  7'  30",  and  between  longitude  98°  36'  and 
99°  21'  W.  of  Greenwich,  is,  from  a historical  view-point,  one 
of  the  most  interesting  spots  in  the  Republic.  A vast  oval  ba- 
sin about  50  M.  long  by  40  M.  broad,  it  is  thought  to  be  the 
one-time  floor  of  an  extinct  volcano  whose  walls  were  the  sur- 
rounding mountains.  Its  greatest  length  is  71  M.;  its  greatest 
width  45  M.  Its  area  is  about  1,758  square  miles,  with  an  ele- 
vation between  7,439  and  8,036  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  chief  constituents  of  the  gigantic  volcanic  frame  which 
now  serves  as  a natural  bulwark  to  the  valley,  are  hyper- 
sthenic porphyry,  amphibole  trachyte  lava,  and  a porous 
amygdaloid,1  or  trap-rock,  composed  of  silica  and  volcanic 
ashes  and  known  locally  as  tezontle. 

This  peculiar  trap-rock  is  found  in  almost  every  part  of  the  Republic, 
scattered  over  the  surface  of  the  ground.  When  the  small  cavities  which 
pit  its  surface  are  filled  with  mortar  it  makes  a binding  material  of  great 
strength,  and  it  is  used  extensively  for  building  purposes.  Houses  con- 
structed of  it  possess  splendid  earthquake-resisting  qualities,  inasmuch 
as  a massive  wall  of  it  carries  almost  the  strength  of  a solid  piece.  Many 
of  the  old  Spanish  houses  built  by  the  Conquistadores  four  centuries  ago, 
which  still  stand  in  almost  perfect  state,  were  made  of  this  substance,  and 
of  tepetate.  In  certain  regions  contiguous  to  the  Valley  of  Mexico  geodes 
of  different  minerals  are  found  embedded  in  the  surface  of  the  tezontle. 

When  the  huge  wall  was  thrown  up  around  the  valley  in 
prehistoric  times,  it  is  supposed  to  have  enclosed  it  com- 
pletely, and  by  its  latent  heat  to  have  changed  the  climate. 
Coincidently  came  the  diluvium  and  aided  in  the  alluvial, 
or  quaternary,  formation  of  the  valley  bed,  the  principal  fea- 
tures of  which  are  lacustrine  layers  of  sediment  in  the  form 
of  a white,  marlaceous  substance  known  as  tepetate:  when 
exposed  to  atmospheric  action  this  substance  becomes  almost 
as  hard  as  cement.  It  is  used  extensively  in  and  about  the 
valley  as  a building  material.  In  the  construction  of  the  valley 
bed,  layers  of  marl  alternate  with  volcanic  detritus  of  a por- 
phyritic  nature  containing  trachyte,  pumice-stone  and  rock 
of  a schistose  character,  carried  hither  by  mountain  torrents 
or  thrown  into  the  valley  during  volcanic  disturbances.  Be- 

1 “The  geological  term  amygdaloid  refers  to  igneous  rocks  containing 
numerous  almond-shaped  or  spherical  substances  of  distinctly  different 
chemical  and  physical  composition  from  that  of  the  parent  rocks.  These 
numerous  enclosures  were  originally  cavities  due  to  the  injection  of  steam 
or  gases.  Lava  frequently  shows  a structure  of  this  character;  its  enclos- 
ures are  commonly  calcite  or  quartz.” 


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VALLEY  OF  MEXICO  Jft.  Route . 247 


tween  the  beds  of  marl  lie  strata  of  mud  and  humus,  and  in 
some  parts,  sand  and  alkali.  Deep  down  between  some  of 
these  layers,  hemmed  in  by  unthinkable  pressures,  are  lakes 
of  fine  artesian  water,  tapped  by  wells  which  supply  many  of 
the  residents  of  the  capital  with  pure  and  delicious  potable 
water.  In  some  parts  of  the  valley  these  wells  spout  many  feet 
into  the  air. 

Centuries  are  thought  to  have  elapsed  before  the  roaring 
giants  overlooking  the  valley  ceased  their  stupendous  work. 
Water  accumulated  in  the  basin,  which  was  soon  converted 
into  a lake,  dotted  with  islands,  indented  by  peninsulas  and 
surrounded  by  a barrier  of  gigantic,  smoking  volcanoes. 
The  rich  humus  of  the  surface,  and  the  excessive  humidity 
caused  by  evaporation  under  the  stimulus  of  fierce,  internal 
fires,  combined  to  render  the  spot  extraordinarily  fertile, 
and  along  the  shore  of  the  lake  arose  a great  tropical  forest,  of 
which  the  immense  ahuehuetes  of  Chapultepec  Park  (p.  379) 
are  perhaps  the  sole  surviving  remnants.  The  prolific  vege- 
tation invaded  the  waters  of  the  lakes  and  produced  the  beau- 
tiful Chinampas  (p.  350)  or  floating  gardens  of  the  Aztecs. 
Owing  to  the  lowering  of  the  adjacent  lakes  subsequent  to  the 
draining  of  the  valley,  many  of  these  floating  islands  have  now 
joined  the  continent.  In  a few  years  they  will  perhaps  all  have 
disappeared. 

Prior  to  the  Conquest  the  lakes  were  extensive,  and  they 
formed  a great  waterway  between  the  important  Indian  cities 
of  the  valley.  Azcapotzalco,  Coyoacan,  Chapultepec,  Guada- 
lupe, and  the  Pehon 1 once  stood  on  the  border  of  Lake  Tezcuco, 
and  the  royal  Aztec  barges  sailed  uninterruptedly  from  the 
gates  of  the  summer  palace  of  Chapultepec  to  the  landing  at 
Ixtapalapa.  A multiplicity  of  canals  intersected  the  ancient 
Aztec  metropolis  of  Tenochtitlan  and  connected  with  the 
lake  in  the  suburbs.  It  was  a New  World  Venice  and  Bankok 
combined  that  the  Spaniards  discovered  when  they  marched 
up  from  the  coast  in  1519. 

The  Aztec  Emperor  Ahuizotl  caused  all  the  streams  to  the 
south  of  the  valley  to  be  turned  into  the  central  lake,  in  order 
to  raise  the  surface  of  the  water.  As  a result  Tenochtitlan 
was  flooded  for  two  years,  and  the  first  project  for  draining 
the  valley  was  then  discussed. 

The  basin  of  the  valley  is  formed  by  the  immense  Sierra 
Nevada  or  Anahuac  range  and  its  offshoots,  which  at  the 
beginning  of  the  central  plateau  project  into  the  interior  from 
the  E.  coast  range,  the  Sierra  Madre  Oriental.  The  N.-W. 
boundary  is  marked  by  the  old  Indian  village  of  Huehuetoca 
and  a small  group  of  hills,  the  Cerro  de  Sincoque  and  the  C. 


1 According  to  Baron  Von  Humboldt,  the  City  of  Mexico  will  one 
day  be  destroyed  by  this  little  volcan,  now  quiescent. 


248  Route  42.  VALLEY  OF  MEXICO 


de  Jalpan , between  which  lies  the  celebrated  Canal  or  Tajo 
de  Nochistongo,  described  at  p.  135.  Near  by  are  the  hills 
of  Espana,  Las  Cuevas , Jiloncingo  and  Aranda , and  the 
Sierra  de  Tezontlalpam  and  the  higher,  argentiferous  Pachuca 
range.  Beyond  these  hills  lie  the  valleys  and  plains  of  Tula , 
Atotonilco  el  Grande,  Tulandngo  and  Ziriguilucan. 

Behind  gigantic  Popocatepetl  (p.  463)  and  Iztacdhuatl 
(p.  464),  which  bound  the  valley  on  the  S.-E.,  extend  the 
valley  and  city  of  Puebla  (p.  508).  On  the  south  rises  the 
picturesque  Sierra  de  Ajasco,  behind  which  is  the  beautiful 
town  of  Cuernavaca  (p.  436).  The  Sierra  de  las  Cruces  and 
its  offshoots,  the  S.  de  Monte  Alto  and  Monte  Bajo,  bound  it 
on  the  W.  and  beyond  lies  the  Valley  of  Toluca  (p.  199). 

The  natural  outlet  of  the  valley  is  between  the  N.  group 
of  hills  along  the  bed  of  the  Tequixquiac  River,  where  recent 
excavations  strengthen  the  belief  that  the  region  was  inhab- 
ited by  man  in  very  remote  times.  In  1870  a fossil  modelled 
by  human  hands  into  the  form  of  a coyote  was  found  in  a 
stratum  belonging  to  an  epoch  dating  back  thousands  of 
years.  Other  finds  prove  that  the  fauna  once  included  Amer- 
ican elephants  ( Elephas  primigenius) , mastodons  ( Mastodon 
antidiluvianus) , buffaloes  ( Bos  latifrons),  llamas  ( Eschatius 
conidens),  giant  armadillos  ( Glyptodon  cf.  claripes)  and  many 
animals  now  extinct. 

The  waters  of  the  valley  form  two  distinct  watersheds,  one 
sloping  in  an  easterly  direction  and  the  other  toward  the  west, 
with  a number  of  small  streams.  The  waters  of  these  two  sheds 
collect  and  form  five  lakes : Zumpango,  at  the  foot  of  the  Sierra 
de  Tepozotlan  and  the  Sierra  de  Jalpan  on  the  N.,  along  with 
Xaltocan  and  San  Cristobal;  Chaleo  and  Xochimilco  on  the 
S.  and  Lake  Texcoco1  on  the  W.  The  celebrated  Nochis- 
tongo Canal  was  begun  on  the  W.  shore  of  Zumpango  and 
the  equally  celebrated  Tequixquiac  Tunnel  (comp.  p.  251) 
is  now  a feature  of  it.  Texcoco  is  the  largest  of  the  lakes 
(about  30  sqr.  kilom.),  all  of  which  have  greatly  diminished 
since  the  Conquest.  A portion  of  the  present  water  supply 
of  Mexico  City  is  derived  from  springs  on  the  floor  of  Lake 
Xochimilco  (comp.  p.  350).  Texcoco  lies  in  the  lowest  depres- 
sion of  the  valley,  and  albeit  the  waters  of  the  other  lakes 
overflow  into  it  during  the  rainy  season,  the  completion  of 
the  drainage  of  the  valley  has  removed  all  danger  of  inunda- 
tions. The  swampy  shores  of  Texcoco  are  covered  with  de- 
posits of  soda  — tequesquite.  The  water  is  salty,  but  of  less 
specific  gravity  than  that  of  the  ocean.  The  waters  of  Xochi- 
milco and  Chaleo  are  sweet. 


1 Texcoco , or  Tezcuco,  signifies  “place  of  detention  ” ; as  several  of  the 
tribes  who  successively  occupied  Andhuac  were  said  to  have  halted  some 
time  on  the  spot.  (Ixtlilxochitl,  Hist.  Chic.,  M.  S.  Cap.  10.) 


Tne  Tezcucans.  VALLEY  OF  MEXICO  42.  Route.  249 


The  origin  of  the  Tezcucans  is  a mystery  which  has  not  been  satisfactorily 
explained.  Students  of  Mexican  history  concur  in  the  belief  that  a vast  lacus- 
trine population  once  dwelt  in  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  and  that  a high  state  ot 
civilization  existed  here  (comp.  p.  civ)  many  years  before  Cortes  and  his  bold 
raiders  came  to  disrupt  it. 

It  is  possible  that  this  lofty,  imperial  vale  whence  kings,  emperors  and  re- 
gents have  ruled  their  vast  domains  was  anciently  a sort  of  Ellis  Island,  or 
clearing-house  for  swarms  of  peoples  who  entered  and  settled  in  various 
parts  of  the  present  Republic.  These  tribes,  or  groups,  or  races  who  spoke 
the  165  languages  and  dialects  that  once  existed  in  Mexico,  arrived,  per- 
chance, at  this  high,  fair  valley  just  as  in  our  own  time  millions  of  foreign 
immigrants  have  come  to  the  friendly  port  of  New  York.  That  the  former 
were  of  as  many  different  origins  and  strains  as  the  latter,  no  one  familiar 
with  the  various  tribes  in  microcosmic  Mexico  will  doubt. 

That  a pyramid-erecting  people  built  the  great  Pyramids  of  San  Judn 
Teotihuacan  (p.  425),  Cholula  (p.  518),  Papantla  (p.  507)  and  others  in  the 
country,  is  incontrovertible.  Certain  characteristics  of  the  Mayas  of  Yuca- 
tan (p.  579),  the  Zapotecas  of  Mitla  (p.  537),  the  early  inhabitants  of  Pa- 
lenque  (p.  567),  and  of  other  places,  remind  one  of  the  Egyptians. 

Facially,  linguistically  and  otherwise  the  Coras  of  Nayarit  (p.  96)  suggest 
Koreans  and  their  Turanian  forebears.  The  T ehuantepecanos  (p.  555)  have 
much  in  common  with  Burmese;  the  Huicholes  (p.  93)  are  Mongoloid,  and 
the  Tarascans  (p.  217)  resemble  Chaldeans.  Many  of  the  minor  tribes  of 
Indians  in  Sonora  and  Chihuahua  are  affiliated  with  Apaches,  who  are  aber- 
rant Mongols  and  are  offshoots  of  the  Athabascan  Family  — whose  habitat 
was  in  Alaska.  There  is  much  in  Mexico  to  support  the  theory  that  the 
primitive  settlers  came  originally  from  or  through  Asia.  And  the  belief  is 
simplified  when  ore  recalls  that  a traveller  can  come  from  the  Asiatic  main- 
land to  Mexico  without  having  to  cross  any  body  of  water  more  than  60 
miles  wide.  Korea,  on  the  Chinese  mainland,  is  but  120  miles  from  Japan, 
with  the  intervening  islands  of  Tsushima  midway  of  the  strait. 

From  the  easternmost  point  of  Yezo,  Japan’s  most  northerly  island,  to  the 
southernmost  of  the  Kuril  Islands,  is  30  miles.  This  crescent-shaped  string 
of  islands,  in  its  northerly  reach  for  Kamchatka,  resembles  a series  of  huge 
stepping-stones,  each  island  so  close  to  its  neighbor  that  a native  in  a stout 
sailboat  could  compass  the  distance  between  them  without  being  on  the 
water  more  than  a day  at  a time. 

By  skirting  the  shore,  or  tramping  through  Kamchatka  to  the  edge  of 
Behring  Sea,  he  would  soon  find  himself  within  50  nautical  miles  of  the 
Alaskan  coast,  across  an  easily  navigable  strip  of  water.  In  a time  not  very 
remote  the  Aleutian  Islands  formed  an  unbroken  causeway  between  Asia  and 
America,  and  over  it  no  doubt  came  the  first  mammoth  from  its  home  in 
Egypt  and  the  first  grizzly  bear  from  its  habitat  in  Yezo. 

Flowing  about  24  hours  off  the  coast  of  Western  Japan  is  an  ocean  current 
known  to  the  Japanese  as  the  Kuro  Shiwo  (black  brine),  and  to  mariners 
as  the  Pacific  Gulf  Stream.  Rising  in  Luzon  waters  it  sweeps  northward 
along  the  Japan  coast,  bends  south  of  the  Aleutian  Islands,  impinges  on  the 
American  continent  near  Sitka  (Alaska),  then  flows  southward  along  the 
California  coast  under  the  name  of  the  North  Pacific  Drift.  From  300  to 
500  miles  wide,  and  moving  at  a velocity  of  from  20  to  100  miles  a day  ac- 
cording to  the  winds  and  seasons,  it  has  carried  more  than  one  dismantled 
Asiatic  junk  as  jetsam  to  a South  American  beach,  and  sailors  realize  that 
such  a craft  could  make  the  trip  from  China  to  California  without  being  out 
of  sight  of  land  for  more  than  3 or  4 days  at  a time.  It  requires  no  great 
stretch  of  the  imagination  to  conclude  that  it  is  the  old  fluvial  lane  over 
which  the  first  Americans,  came  to  our  hospitable  shore.  If  proof  were 
wanted  one  has  but  to  point  to  the  aberrant  Mongol  types  scattered  over 
Alaska  and  Esquimau  land  to-day.  That  the  migrating  peoples  who  found 
this  ocean  route  to  Alaska  and  spread  thence  over  the  American  continent 
would  inevitably  drift  southward  in  search  of  the  warmth  and  the  summer 
sea  to  which  they  had  perhaps  been  accustomed  is  a reasonable  supposition. 
It  is  borne  out  by  the  fact  that  the  Aztecs,  the  Apaches  and  many  of  the 
smaller  tribes  who  long  ago  settled  in  Mexico  came  from  Alaska  (see  p.  clxiv) 
— the  trail  of  the  Aztecs  from  Alaska  to  the  Valley  of  Mexico  being  almost 
as  sharply  defined  as  if  it  were  made  yesterday. 


250 


VALLEY  OF  MEXICO  Drainage-Canal. 


The  natural  products  of  the  valley  are  chiefly  agricultural, 
and  are  in  keeping  with  the  climate;  com,  wheat,  fruit  and 
vegetables  being  the  leading  products,  in  the  order  named. 
Oranges,  lemons,  figs,  quinces,  peaches,  strawberries  (at 
San  Angel),  ahuacates,  nuts,  olives,  and  a wide  variety  of 
such  products  grow  in  profusion.  The  apple  and  pear  orchards 
of  Tlalpan  and  San  Angel  are  celebrated. 

Encompassing  San  Angel  are  wide  maguey  fields  which 
produce  the  beloved  pulque  (p.  lxxxii)  of  the  pelados.  The 
mountain  forests  contain  pine,  cedar  and  medicinal  woods, 
and  they  furnish  a limited  supply  of  building  material.  In 
the  N.-E.,  near  Pachuca,  some  of  the  richest  silver-mines  of  the 
Republic  are  located.  Sulphur  is  obtained  from  the  crater 
of  Popocatepetl.  Water-fowl  frequent  the  lakes,  and  from  the 
waters  of  these,  numerous  fishermen  ( Pescadores ) obtain 
small  but  palatable  fish  (known  as  juiles,  char  ales  and  metzla- 
piques)  with  which  they  supply  the  Mex.  city  markets.  Flow- 
ers in  great  variety  and  abundance  grow  throughout  the  year. 
For  reference  to  climate  see  p.  xxvi. 

The  Valley  of  Mexico  is  drained  through  a huge  canal  ( Canal 
del  Desague)  about  30  M.  long,  begun  at  the  instigation  of 
President  Porfirio  Diaz,  in  1879,  and  completed  in  1900  at  a 
total  cost  of  about  sixteen  millions  of  pesos.  Its  completion 
removed  the  danger  of  inundations  of  Mexico  City  and  solved 
a problem  which  occupied  the  thoughts  of  the  Aztecs  as  far 
back  as  1449,  as  well  as  those  of  the  peoples  who  followed  them. 
The  first  dam  connecting  Tenochtitlan  with  Tepeyac  (Guada- 
lupe) and  Lake  Xochimilco  was  constructed  about  1450; 
it  was  destroyed  by  the  Spanish  invaders  at  the  time  of  the 
Conquest.  In  1553  the  (2d)  Spanish  Viceroy  ( Luis  de  Velasco) 
caused  the  San  Lazaro  dike  to  be  built,  and  in  1856  President 
Comonfort  invited  bids  for  the  construction  of  a system  of 
canals  that  would  forever  place  the  Mexican  capital  beyond 
the  danger  of  the  Texcocan  waters.  Of  the  number  of  pro- 
jects presented,  those  of  the  engineer  Francisco  Garay  were 
selected,  and  the  present  extensive  construction  is  in  accord- 
ance with  his  ideas.  Nearly  eleven  million  cubic  meters  of 
earth  were  removed  from  the  grand  canal,  and  3,000  men  and 
5 dredging-machines  were  kept  constantly  employed  for  many 
years  in  this  titanic  undertaking. 

The  canal  starts  at  a point  E.  of  the  city  near  the  old  San 
Ldzaro  gate,  about  5 ft.  below  the  mean  level  of  the  capital. 
It  winds  between  the  Guadalupe  range  and  Lake  Texcoco, 
crosses  Lakes  San  Cristobal,  Xal  toe  an  and  Zumpango,  and 
ends  near  the  town  of  Zumpango  (in  the  State  of  Mexico), 
after  crossing  the  Guadalupe  River  by  means  of  an  aqueduct 
50  centimeters  above  the  mean  level  of  that  stream.  The 
depth  at  the  starting-point  is  16  ft.;  at  the  terminal  65  ft. 
It  is  crossed  by  four  aqueducts  and  13  bridges.  The  tunnel 


VALLEY  OF  MEXICO  42.  Route . 251 


section,  called  Tunel  de  Tequixquiac  (because  of  its  proximity 
to  the  town  of  that  name),  runs  beneath  the  Xalpan  Mts., 
and  is  10  kilom.  long.  The  big  dam  which  controls  the  water 
as  it  enters  the  last  tunnel  is  a fine  piece  of  engineering.  A 
system  of  lock  gates  insures  control  of  the  waste  waters,  and 
regulates  the  level  of  Lake  Texcoco,  thus  preventing  inunda- 
tions. 

The  Valley  of  Mexico  has  undergone  considerable  modi- 
fication since  the  completion  of  the  drainage-works.  All  the 
surface  water  is  now  controlled,  but  the  great  bed  ( colchon  de 
agua)  of  sub-soil  water  that  once  formed  a fairly  stable  foun- 
dation for  the  buildings  of  Mexico  City  has  now  been  drained 
off,  with  the  result  that  many  of  the  heavier  buildings  are 
slowly  sinking  and  are  presenting  a problem  that  the  most 
expert  engineers  find  difficulty  in  solving.  They  claim  that 
the  houses  are  sinking  faster  now  than  formerly.  Oddly  enough, 
the  huge  structures  are  fairly  stable  during  the  rainy  season, 
when  the  sub-soil  is  water-soaked,  but  as  soon  as  this  drains 
off  the  process  of  hundimiento  (sinking)  continues. 

Situation,  History,  and  Character  of  the  City. 

Mexico  City  (La  Ciudad  de  Mejico,  commonly  called 
Mexico);  capital  of  the  Federal  District  and  of  the  Republic, 
the  residence  of  the  President,  the  seat  of  a bishop,  and  a uni- 
versity; the  social,  commercial  and  financial  centre  of  the 
Republic,  lies  in  latitude  19°  26'  N.  of  the  equator,  and  in 
longitude  99°  6'  45"  W.  from  Greenwich,  at  an  altitude  of 
7,434  ft.  above  the  sea  — the  nearest  point  of  which  is  263 
miles  distant,  on  the  E.  The  census  of  1900  registered  a popu- 
lation of  368,177,  while  that  of  1922  showed  615,367,  the  in- 
crease being  due  chiefly  to  the  steady  influx  of  foreigners,  and 
to  sanitary  measures  which  help  to  decrease  the  death  rate.  It 
is  perhaps  the  oldest  city  on  the  American  continent , its  authen- 
tic history  dating  back  to  the  12th  century.  The  ancient  Aztec 
metropolis  of  Tenochtitldn  (capital  of  the  Empire  of  Monte- 
zuma) had  for  its  centre  the  great  teocalli  (p.  clxviii)  which  was 
on  or  near  the  site  now  occupied  by  the  Cathedral  — the 
mother  church  of  New  Spain.  This  giant  pyramid,  along  with 
the  Aztec  city,  was  so  completely  destroyed  by  the  Spanish 
invaders  that  scarcely  a vestige  remains  above  ground.  As 
the  Indian  temples  were  of  massive  construction  it  is  sup- 
posed that  they  gradually  sunk  out  of  sight  (just  as  the  pres- 
ent city  is  doing),  and  now  lie  buried  beneath  the  modern 
capital.1 


1 This  sinking  process  is  particularly  observable  in  the  case  of  the 
Escuela  National  de  Ingenieros  (p.  330).  the  Loreto  Church  (p.  362),  that 
of  La  Santisima  Trinidad  (p.  365)  and  La  Profesa  (p.  318).  For  years  these 
sometime  fine  structures  have  been  sinking  and  threatening  a collapse. 
In  the  School  of  Engineers  (the  old  Palacio  de  Minas),  adjacent  to  the 
new  Correo,  the  walls,  pillars  and  corridors  have,  in  certain  places,  sunk 


252  Route  J$. 


MEXICO  CITY 


The  Old  City . 

“ The  Ancient  Tenochtitlan  was  shaped  like  a parallel- 
ogram and  covered  the  same  spot  occupied  by  the  present 
capital.  The  great  causeways  touched  it  in  the  same  points; 
the  streets  ran  in  much  the  same  direction,  nearly  from  X.  to 
S.  and  from  E.  to  W.;  and  the  four  principal  quarters  of  the 
town  are  still  known  among  the  Indians  by  their  ancient  names. 

“The  old  dikes  were  three  in  number:  that  of  Iztapalapan 
(now  the  road  to  Coyoacan)  by  which  the  Spaniards  entered, 
approaching  the  city  from  the  S.;  that  of  Tepeyacac  (now 
the  Boulevard  to  Guadalupe),  on  the  X.,  which,  continuing 
the  principal  street,  might  be  regarded,  also,  as  a continua- 
tion of  the  first  causewa}^,  and,  lastly,  the  dike  of  Tlacopan 
(now  the  Calle  del  Puente  de  Alvarado  and  the  Tacuba  Road), 
connecting  the  island-city  with  the  continent  on  the  W.  This 
last  causeway,  memorable  for  the  disastrous  retreat  of  the 
Spaniards  on  the  Sad  Night  (p.  clxxxiii),  was  about  two  miles 
in  length.  They  were  all  built  in  the  same  substantial  manner, 
of  lime  and  stone,  were  defended  by  draw-bridges  ( puentes 
levadizos),  and  were  wide  enough  for  twelve  horsemen  to  ride 
abreast.  The  edifices  (of  which  it  is  affirmed  there  were 
120,000)  were  constructed  of  a red,  porous  stone,  with  some 
reference  to  architectural  solidity,  if  not  elegance.  The  man- 
sions of  the  nobility  were  on  a scale  of  rude  magnificence  cor- 
responding with  their  state..  They  were  low,  seldom  more 
than  one  floor,  never  exceeding  two.  They  were  spread  over 
a wide  extent  of  ground,  were  arranged  in  a quadrangular 
form,  with  a court  in  the  centre,  and  were  surrounded  by 
porticos  or  portales,  embellished  with  porphyry  and  jasper, 
while  not  unfrequently  a fountain  of  crystal  water  in  the  centre 
shed  a grateful  coolness  though  the  air.  Most  of  the  streets 
were  mean  and  narrow.  Some  few,  however,  were  wide  and  of 
great  length.  The  principal  street,  conducting  from  the  great 
southern  causeway,  penetrated  in  a straight  line  the  whole 
length  of  the  city,  and  afforded  a noble  vista,  in  which  the 
long  lines  of  low  stone  edifices  were  broken  occasionally  by 
intervening  gardens,  rising  on  terraces  and  displaying  all  the 
pomp  of  Aztec  horticulture. 

“ The  greater  streets,  which  were  coated  with  a hard  cement, 
were  intersected  by  canals  almost  Venetian  in  their  multi- 
plicity. Some  of  these  were  flanked  by  a solid  way  which 
served  as  a foot-walk  for  passengers,  and  as  a landing-place 
where  boats  might  discharge  their  cargoes.  The  canals  were 

as  much  as  40  inches;  a defect  very  noticeable  in  the  centre  of  the  struc- 
ture. The  Loreto  ch.  leans  toward  the  E.,  and  since  its  erection  some  two 
hundred  years  ago  it  has  been  sinking  at  the  rate  of  half  a centimeter  a 
year  — a little  more  than  a yard  in  two  centuries.  These  buildings  were 
constructed  by  the  celebrated  architect  Manuel  Tolsa , and  since  that 
worthy  man  died  without  confession,  certain  priests  predict  the  total 
collapse  of  the  two  buildings  — perhaps  within  the  next  century  or  so. 
(Comp.  Valley  of  Mexico,  p.  244.) 


History.  MEXICO  CITY  42.  Route.  253 

traversed  by  numerous  bridges,  many  of  which  could  be  raised, 
affording  the  means  of  cutting  off  communication  between 
different  parts  of  the  city.  The  surface  of  these  inland  seas, 
as  Cortes  styles  them,  was  darkened  by  thousands  of  canoes  — 
an  Indian  term  — industriously  engaged  in  the  traffic  between 
these  little  communities.  How  gay  and  picturesque  must 
have  been  the  aspect  of  the  lake  in  those  days,  with  its  shining 
cities,  and  flowering  islets  ( chinampas , or  floating  gardens) 
rocking,  as  it  were,  at  anchor  on  the  fair  bosom  of  its  waters ! 

“ The  city  was  said  to  be  nearly  three  leagues  in  circumfer- 
ence. The  immense  size  of  its  great  market-place;  the  long 
lines  of  edifices,  vestiges  of  whose  ruins  may  still  be  found  in 
the  suburbs,  miles  from  the  modern  city;  the  fame  of  the 
metropolis  throughout  Anahuac,  all  attest  a population  far 
beyond  that  of  the  present  capital.”1  (Prescott’s  Conquest  of 
Mexico.) 

The  Calendar  Stone  and  the  Sacrificial  Stone  along  with 
many  other  idols,  monoliths  and  remains  of  the  old  civiliza- 
tion have  been  dug  up  from  the  sub-soil,  and  Indian  relics 
to-day  reward  the  searcher  in  almost  any  spot.  The  ancient 
city  is  said  to  have  been  founded  July  18,  1325,  on  what  was 
then  an  island  in  the  salt  Lake  of  Texcoco,  albeit  historians 
point  to  the  occupation  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico  by  the  Tol- 
tecs  in  the  year  7 00.  Some  of  the  Aztec  houses  were  constructed 
on  piles,  like  the  pre-historic  Swiss  lake  dwellings,  and  like 
those  of  Malaysia  of  to-day.  To  protect  the  capital  from  the 
inundations  to  which  it  was  subject,  the  early  Aztecs  or  Mexica 
constructed  an  elaborate  system  of  dikes,  the  remains  of 
which  can  still  be  seen.  In  1466  Montezuma  I ordered  a dike 
7£M.  long  and  65  ft.  wide  to  be  constructed.  These  dikes  and 
their  bridges  proved  the  undoing  of  the  Spaniards  on  more 
than  one  occasion. 

With  the  downfall  of  Tenochtitldn,  the  Spaniards  set  about 
their  work  of  destruction  and  reconstruction.  The  ecclesiasti- 
cal zealots  destroyed  the  Indian  idols,  the  canals  were  filled 
in  with  the  debris  of  the  demolished  Aztec  temples  and 
houses,  and  in  Hess  than  four  years  from  the  demolition  of 
the  ancient  metropolis,  a new  city  had  arisen  on  its  ruins. 
It  occupied  so  exactly  the  same  site  as  its  predecessor,  that 
the  plaza  mayor , or  great  square,  was  the  same  spot  which 
had  been  covered  by  the  huge  teocalli  and  the  palace  of 
Montezuma;  while  the  principal  streets  took  their  departure 
as  before  from  this  central  point,  and,  passing  through  the 
whole  length  of  the  city,  terminated  at  the  principal  cause- 
ways. Great  alterations,  however,  took  place  in  the  fashion 
of  the  architecture.  The  streets  were  widened  and  many  of 

1 Bernal  Diaz  ( Historia  de  la  Conquista)  says  the  city  had  a circum- 
ference of  10  M.  and  a population  of  60,000.  Cortes , in  one  of  his  letters, 
compared  the  Aztec  city  to  Seville. 


254  Route  42.  MEXICO  CITY  History. 

those  which  had  hitherto  been  waterways  were  made  solid. 
The  edifices  were  constructed  on  a plan  more  to  the  taste  and 
requirements  of  a European  population.  On  the  site  of  the 
temple  of  the  war-god  rose  the  stately  Cathedral,  consecrated 
to  the  Assumption  of  the  Virgin,  and  as  if  to  complete  the 
triumph  of  the  Cross,  the  foundations  were  laid  with  the  broken 
images  of  the  Aztec  gods.”  The  Spaniards  changed  every- 
thing but  the  valley  floor,  and  in  founding  the  present  city  on 
the  boggy,  unsanitary  site  of  the  Aztec  stronghold,  Cortes 
paved  the  way  for  the  untimely  death  of  many  thousands  of 
his  countrymen  — more  perhaps  (by  the  eternal  law  of  com- 
pensation) than  were  killed  by  his  cohorts  in  the  destruction 
of  the  Aztec  capital.  In  1600  the  population  consisted  of  about 
7,000  Spaniards  and  some  8,000  Indians,  and  the  value  of  the 
real  estate  was  upward  of  20  millions  of  pesos.  Despite  its  no- 
torious unhealthfulness  the  city  grew  apace,  and  in  1750  it 
was  of  such  size  and  importance  that  its  population  was  said 
to  number  90,000.  At  that  period  it  was  a filthy  mud-hole, 
unpaved,  unprotected  and  undrained.  The  Spanish  historian 
who  in  the  middle  of  the  18th  cent,  wrote  that  Madrid  era 
la  corte  mas  sucia  que  se  conocia  en  Europe  (the  dirtiest  capital 
in  Europe)  could  have  said  with  truth  that  Mexico  City  in 
the  18th  cent,  was  the  oldest  and  filthiest  city  on  the  Ameri- 
can continent. 

When  forty  years  later  Juan  Vicente  de  Giiemez  Pacheco 
de  Padilla  ( Conde  de  Revillagigedo)  came  from  Spain  as 
Viceroy  (1789-94),  he  undertook  improvements  which  cause 
him  to  be  regarded  as  the  real  founder  of  the  modern  city. 
He  corrected  many  abuses  and  instituted  many  good  ideas 
in  civic  government.  Serious  efforts  were  made  to  drain  the 
metropolis;  the  footpads  which  infested  the  streets  were  ex- 
terminated; grafters  were  relegated  to  the  limbo  designed  by 
fate  for  all  such  social  vultures,  and  those  who  were  not  ex- 
ecuted were  imprisoned  or  banished.  An  effective  police  force 
was  established,  and  life  became  fairly  safe  for  the  first  time 
in  the  history  of  the  place.  Henceforth  the  city  gradually  as- 
sumed its  present  aspect.  Its  greatest  growth  and  expansion 
began  about  1S90;  a series  of  the  old  city  maps  shows  that 
for  the  hundred  years  which  followed  1794,  it  was  almost 
stationary. 


Since  the  Conquest  there  have  been  five  great  inundations,  one  of 
which  lasted  five  years.  During  this  interval  the  seat  of  government  was 
removed  to  the  adjacent  suburb  of  Tacubaya;  communication  was  had 
by  means  of  boats;  trade  was  paralyzed  and  the  misery  of 'the  lower 
classes  was  appalling.  There  were  no  cellars,  and  wThen  the  waters  of  the 
lake  flooded  the  buildings  they  deposited  therein  the  accumulated  filth 
of  centuries;  producing  terrible  epidemics  and  revenging  the  Aztecs  for 
the  Spanish  invasion.  The  contrast  between  the  pagan  Aztec  city  with 
its  stately  buildings  and  its  myriad  canals  alive  with  the  gay  pirogues  of 
the  pleasure-loving  people,  and  that  of  the  Christian  Spaniards  with  its 


Colonias.  MEXICO  CITY  42.  Route.  255 

filth,  its  pillories  and  grisly  gallows,  its  footpads,  dirty  lanes  and  un- 
sanitary homes,  was  significant. 

For  many  years  the  Plaza  Mayor  was  only  3 or  4 ft.  above  the  level  of 
Lake  Texcoco.  Owing  to  the  constant  evaporation  of  its  waters  the  sur- 
face of  the  lake  is  now  much  lower  than  during  the  vice-regal  period. 

The  Present  City.  The  first  intelligent  and  sustained  ef- 
forts to  beautify  the  modern  capital  were  made  by  Maximilian 
and  Carlota.  The  Plaza  Mayor,  then  an  empty  expanse  of 
stone  pavement,  was  converted  into  the  present  zocalo.  The 
idea  of  planting  flowers  and  trees  in  the  central  square  pleased 
the  Mexicans,  and  the  pretty,  flower-embowered  plazuelas  of 
other  towns  in  the  Republic  owe  their  being  to  this  imperial 
initiative.  The  Emperor  and  Empress  beautified  Chapultepec , 
added  to  the  charm  of  the  Alameda,  modernized  the  Paseo  de 
la  Reforma,  and  showed  the  Mexicans  that  they  had  the  setting 
for  one  of  the  most  beautiful  cities  of  the  world.  The  famous 
Reform  Laws  of  Benito  Juarez  materially  aided  in  the  efforts 
to  improve  the  place.  Hitherto  the  principal  streets  were 
blocked  or  curtailed  by  vast  conventual  estates,  and  the 
clerics  obstinately  refused  to  sacrifice  their  rights  to  the 
spirit  of  progress.  But  the  Leyes  de  la  Reforma  changed  this. 

From  1810  to  1870  there  was  practically  no  peace  in  the 
Republic;  revolutions  were  frequent,  the  city  was  the  scene 
of  almost  constant  internecine  strife,  commerce  barely  held 
its  own,  and  the  people  invested  their  money  in  nothing  that 
could  be  confiscated  or  destroyed.  With  the  advent  of  Porfirio 
Diaz  the  nation  found  itself  with  a real  man  at  its  head,  and 
to  that  man’s  almost  limitless  patience  and  industry,  coupled 
with  phenomenal  foresight,  much  of  the  amplification  and 
symmetry  of  the  present  capital  is  due.  Diaz  welcomed  all 
foreigners,  and  about  1890  an  American  company  planned 
a colonia  near  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma;  swamp  land  was 
converted  into  dry  ground,  streets  were  laid  out  and  the  first 
house  of  the  present  Colonia  Juarez  was  erected. 

This  colony,  where  the  buildings  do  not  have  the  typical  and  national 
air  characteristic  of  those  in  the  older  part  of  the  city,  but  rather  a 
foreign,  or  semi-foreign  aspect,  has  expanded  in  an  extraordinary  way. 
Formerly  it  was  represented  by  a few  houses  to  the  W.  of  the  Calles  de 
Bucareli,  and  S.-E.  of  the  Cuauhtemoc  Statue;  now  it  is  embraced  in,  and 
almost  fills,  the  vast  triangle  formed  by  the  Calles  de  Bucareli  on  the  E., 
the  Chapultepec  and  Tacuhaya  car-tracks  on  the  S.,  the  Paseo  de  la 
Reforma  on  the  N.,  and  the  Parque  de  Chapultepec  on  the  W. 

The  streets  in  this  colony  are  named  (with  a single  exception)  for 
foreign  cities:  Liverpool,  Berlin,  Vienna,  London,  etc.  The  exception  is 
the  Calle  de  Dinamarca  (Denmark),  the  fatherland  of  the  Dane  (Mr.  F.  P. 
Hoeck)  who  erected  the  first  house  in  the  district.  The  chief  plaza  is  also 
called  Dinamarca.  Land  values  here  have  risen  from  S3  per  square  meter 
in  1890  to  S50  or  more. 

Other  colonies  have  been  added  since,  and  new  ones  are 
being  planned,  thus  giving  the  present  city  a wider  area  than 
it  formerly  had.  The  steady  influx  of  foreigners,  — a sort  of 


156  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Progress. 


pacific  invasion,  — coupled  with  Mexican  progressiveness,  have 
been  the  prime  factors  in  the  phenomenal  growth  of  the  city; 
advancing  it  to  the  front  rank  of  importance  in  Latin  America. 
Mexicans  now  proudly  consider  their  capital  city  a miniature 
Paris;  its  present  status  was  certainly  undreamed-of  in 
Colonial  times. 

The  capital  is  in  process  of  almost  constant  reformation; 
new  streets  are  being  cut  through,  the  haciendas  adjacent 
to  the  new7  colonms  are  being  cut  up  into  building  lots,  the 
commercial  centre  is  slowly  but  surely  shifting  westward 
from  its  original  focus  at  the  Plaza  Mayor , and  hundreds  of 
new  houses  are  completed  each  year.  Mexico  City  has  no 
intention  of  resting  satisfied  with  a great  yesterday,  but  is  de- 
termined upon  making  a future  for  herself.  Between  visit  and 
visit  certain  spots  in  the  city  grow  almost  out  of  recognition. 
Hitherto  dirty  squares  are  found  changed  into  flower-decked 
plazas;  squat  buildings  of  Colonial  days  are  demolished  and 
rise  as  sky-scrapers,  and  an  enlightened  Government  is  found 
spending  vast  sums  in  beautifying  the  old  capital,  and  in 
erecting  suitable  houses  for  its  municipal  departments.  The 
new  Palacio  Legislativo  in  course  of  erection  in  the  Plaza 
de  la  Republica  (PL  E,  4)  will  cost  upward  of  ten  millions 
of  pesos,  and  will  be,  wThen  completed,  one  of  the  finest  struc- 
tures in  Latin  America.  The  ne'w  and  palatial  residences 
near  the  proposed  palacio,  one  a striking  application  of  Gothic 
motives  to  secular  architecture,  are  indicative  of  the  wealth 
and  taste  that  will  be  lavished  on  the  future  homes  of  the 
Mexicans. 

The  superficial  area  of  the  present  city  is  about  15  square 
miles,  divided  into  Cuarteles , or  Demarcaciones , and  sub- 
divided into  squares  or  manzanas.  There  are  at  present  8 
of  the  former,  but  the  continued  growth  and  spread  of  the 
city  toward  the  S.-W.  wall  no  doubt  necessitate  adding  new 
ones  from  time  to  time.  There  are  about  1,000  manzanas 
with  2,500  or  more  streets  ( cdlles ) and  lanes  ( callejones ) ; many 
plazas,  and  some  22,000  houses  ( casas ).  Upward  of  200  miles 
of  tramways  ( tranvias ) gridiron  the  city  and  suburbs,  and  the 
former  is  lighted  by  2,500  arc-lamps,  and  almost  as  many  in- 
candescents,  and  is  policed  by  about  2,000  gendarmes . The 
Calle  de  San  Juan  de  Letran  is  taken  as  the  dividing-fine,  or 
eje,  between  the  older  part  of  the  city  at  the  E.  and  the 
newer  portion  at  the  W.  Each  cuartel  is  under  the  super- 
vision of  a comisario — housed  in  the  comisaria , or  police- 
station  — and  he,  in  turn,  is  responsible  to  an  inspector  gen- 
eral. The  Chief  of  Police,  the  Inspector  General,  and  similar 
officials,  are  amenable  to  the  Gobernador  (governor)  del  Dis- 
trito Federal.  Cuarteles  III  and  IV  are  the  oldest;  and  III, 
IV,  and  V are  the  most  populous.  Cuarteles  VII  and  VIII 
illustrate  graphically  the  rapid  growth  of  the  city. 


Las  Calles. 


MEXICO  CITY 


J+2.  Route . 257 


The  Older  Quarter  of  the  city  — that  portion  lying  to  the 
E.,  north  and  S of  the  Cathedral  and  Palacio  — has  not  kept 
pace  with  the  new  portion,  whose  trend  is  steadily  westward 
and  is  of  a progressive  nature.  The  old  portion  contains  but 
little  of  real  interest  to  the  traveller.  Particularly  to  be 
avoided  is  that  region  to  the  N.-W.  of  San  Lazaro  (PL  I,  3) 
called  Colonia  dc  la  Bolsa,  as  it  is  the  plague  and  crime-spot  of 
the  city.  It  is  a sort  of  native  Ghetto  with  dirty  and  microbic 
streets,  repulsive  sights  and  evil  smells ; where  the  inhabitants 
could  never  be  accused  of  excessive  tidiness.  The  enlightened 
“City  Fathers’’  propose  to  take  energetic  measures  to  clean 
or  stamp  out  this  foul  region,  which  is  just  as  offensive  to  in- 
telligent Mexicans  as  it  is  to  foreign  visitors. 

The  Calles,  of  which  there  are  oftentimes  a 1st,  2d,  3d 
and  so  on  of  the  same  name,  referred  to  by  Mexicans  as  Calles 
de  Dios  (streets  of  God),  though  mostly  decked  out  with,  new 
names,  are  nearly  all  rich  in  historical  interest  — theatres  of 
stirring  events  prior  to  and  after  the  Conquest.  Repeated 
municipal  edicts  have  changed  many  of  the  old  names,  and 
the  devastating  hand  of  progress  has  demolished  not  a few 
of  the  quaint  old  churches  and  seigniorial  houses  which  once 
flanked  them,  but  their  legendary  romance  and  history  is 
enshrined  in  more  than  one  volume  of  poetry  and  prose. 
Many  of  the  streets  were  once  named  for  Indian  heroes  (of 
the  Spanish  invasion),  for  churches,  convents  or  religious 
orders,  but  the  present  tendency  is  to  apply  more  modern 
names,  albeit  certain  of  the  old  ones  have  been  retained 
because  of  their  historical  associations.  The  street  nomen- 
clature of  that  portion  of  the  city  lying  W.  of  the  Plaza  Mayor 
was  readjusted  in  1908,  and  many  of  the  names  in  the  older, 
or  eastern  quarter  of  the  city  were  changed  in  1909.  The 
aim,  with  special  regard  to  the  colonias,  is  to  enable  one  to 
locate  the  section  of  the  city  as  soon  as  the  street  name  is 
given;  for  example,  in  the  Colonia  Santa  Maria  all  streets 
running  N.  and  S.  are  named  for  trees;  those  from  E.  to  W. 
for  flowers  or  for  notable  Mexicans.  As  mentioned  at  p.  255, 
the  C.  Juarez  streets  are  named  for  foreign  cities;  C.  Roma 
and  Condesa  for  Mex.  states  and  cities;  C.  Cuauhtemoc  for 
rivers;  C.  San  Rafael  for  celebrated  men  of  all  nationalities, 
and  so  on.  The  streets  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  new 
Palacio  Legislativo  (PL  E,  4)  bear  the  names  of  the  Diputados 
Constituyentes,  or  representatives  who  framed  the  original 
Constitution,  in  1857.  The  names  of  certain  of  the  old-time 
streets,  such  as  El  Puente  de  Jesus  (bridge  of  Jesus),  Puerta 
Falsa  de  San  Andres  (false  door  of  St.  Andrew),  Nino  Perdido 
(lost  child),  Calle  de  las  Ratas  (street  of  the  rats)  and  so  on, 
were  historical  puzzles  to  the  foreigner. 

New  names  were  given  to  various  of  the  city  streets  in  1921, 
at  the  centenary  celebration  of  Mexican  Independence. 


258  Route  1$. 


MEXICO  CITY 


The  Streets. 


The  busy  Avenida  de  Francisco  I.  Madero  (formerly  the 
Avenida  de  San  Francisco ),  which  prolongs  the  Ave.  Juarez 
to  the  Plaza  Mayor , the  Calle  de  Gante}  the  Ave.  16  de  Septi- 
embre,  and  the  several  cross  streets  which  lead  thence  to  the 
Avenida  Madero  and  on  to  the  broad  Avenida  Cinco  de  Mayo , 
are  the  busiest  and  among  the  most  interesting  thorough- 
fares of  the  city. 

The  Avenida  F.  I.  Madero  is  the  Broadway  or  Strand  of 
Mexico  City;  here  many  foreigners  have  beautiful  and  at- 
tractive shops,  and  the  massive,  time-stained  houses,  many 
of  them  with  sculptured  fagades  almost  as  attractive  as  those 
of  the  churches,  are  quaint  and  interesting. 

The  square  bounded  by  the  Calle  de  Bolivar  on  the  E., 
Cinco  de  Mayo  on  the  N.,  San  Juan  de  Letran  on  the  W.,  and 
the  Ave.  16  de  Septiembre  on  the  S.,  is  the  nerve-centre  of 
American  and  British  activity.  This  also  extends  to  the  lower 
end  of  5 de  Mayo , where  stands  the  imposing  Mutual  Life 
Ins.  Co.  building,  with  the  Bank  of  Montreal  and  many 
offices. 

The  headquarters  of  the  Mexico  Tramways  Co.  is  in  Gante 
St..,  and  here  also  is  the  noble  old  Church  of  San  Francisco 
(p.  321),  one  of  the  finest  ecclesiological  relics  in  the  city. 
Erected  with  a money  grant  of  Herndn  Cortes , it  was  for  a 
century  or  so  the  focus  of  the  ecclesiastical  power  in  New 
Spain. 

The  Ave.  de  F.  I.  Madero  and  the  contiguous  streets  awaken 
memories  of  Paris,  Naples  and  Madrid;  they  are  among  the 
liveliest  in  the  city,  and  one  will  rarely  see  a more  pleasing 
spectacle  than  they  offer  on  a Sunday  or  a holiday.  The  beau- 
tiful sunshine  adds  a permanent  charm,  and  the  national 
vivaciousness,  and  the  picturesqueness  of  the  people,  differen- 
tiate the  streets  and  the  crowd  from  those  of  any  Anglo- 
Saxon  city.  At  certain  hours  in  the  forenoon,  and  just  before 
twilight  on  any  day,  they  are  usually  thronged  with  hand- 
some women,  gay  equipages,  hurrying  messengers,  merchants, 
priests,  American  promoters,  bull-baiters,  cargadoresf  daw- 
dling lagartijos  (lizards,  or  loungers)  and  groups  of  animated 
men  who  talk  business,  dodge  automobiles,  smoke  cigarettes, 
suck  cane-heads,  deplore  the  high  prices  of  rents,  discuss  the 
phenomenal  rise  in  city  realty,  question  the  stability  of  the 
gold-standard  and  the  fluctuations  of  silver,  and  pass  the 
sunny  hours  with  true  Latin  insouciance.  On  every  side  one 
sees  hats  lifted,  fingers  wiggled  in  salutations,  bowing,  hand- 
shaking and  introductions  and  leave-takings,  while  the  air 
vibrates  with  greetings,  laughter,  compliments,  protestations 
and  gesticulations,  and  a varying  medley  of  street  cries. 

Lottery-ticket  venders  — the  halt,  the  lame  and  the  blind  — 
needle  their  odoriferous  way  through  the  democratic  throng, 
dangling  strips  of  tissue  tickets  before  one’s  eyes  and  offering 


The  Streets . 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  259 


vast  fortunes  in  strident  and  wheedling  voices.  Occasionally 
a squad  of  trim  soldiers  marches  by  with  measured  and  re- 
sounding tread,  and  as  the  memory-quickening  music  of  drum 
and  clarion  shatters  the  air,  the  politicians  of  the  old  regime 
regard  each  other  questioningly,  shrug  their  padded  shoulders, 
twist  their  elaborately  waxed  Imperial  mustachios,  grimace, 
show  the  palms  of  their  hands  expressively,  and  take  the 
hint  ingeniously  offered  by  a strong  and  stable  government  im- 
patient of  revolutions  or  pronunciamientos.  In  a single  square 
one  may  see  representatives  of  perhaps  half  a dozen  Indian 
tribes — the  sad  and  degraded  descendants  of  the  early 
Tzins  — and  with  them  the  peoples  of  a score  or  more  foreign 
nations.  A steady  stream  of  carriages,  automobiles  and  minor 
vehicles  surges  along  the  thoroughfare,  and  not  only  renders 
one  dizzy  with  the  roar  of  traffic,  but  makes  the  safe  crossing 
of  the  street  an  acrobatic  accomplishment  of  which  one  soon 
grows  proud.  At  midday  certain  of  the  “ to-morrow  morning” 
newspapers,  printed  in  the  vernacular,  and  containing  the 
latest  (sic)  telegrams,  come  hot  from  the  press;  putting  foreign 
enterprise  to  the  blush  and  filling  the  calles  with  yelling 
newsboys.  Beggars  sidle  up  to  one  and  solicit  alms  — ;un 
socorro  por  el  amor  de  Dios ! — the  while  keeping  a watchful, 
flounder-like  eye  on  the  vigilant  gendarme  stationed  at  the 
street-corner.  Through  these  congested  ways  (which  are  not 
over  20  ft.  wide)  the  pulque- sodden  cabmen  drive  as  reck- 
lessly as  the  more  enlightened,  but  equally  heedless,  auto- 
movilistas,  and  when  one  takes  to  the  streets  to  pass  a dawdler, 
care  and  foresight  are  requisites. 

Toward  twilight  — the  hour  decreed  by  fashion  for  its 
devotees  to  promenade  — the  crowd  grows  denser  and  the 
racket  increases.  Then,  a certain  class  of  bedizened  and 
enamelled  mujerzuelas  (disciples  of  the  half- world),  who  have 
slept  the  sweet  morning  hours  away,  make  their  debut;  the 
shop-windows  light  up,  hundreds  of  electric  signs  flash  in  the 
growing  darkness,  and  a steady  stream  of  glittering  turn-outs 
rolls  in  from  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma  — brightened  here  and 
there  by  modish  Parisian  toilettes,  and  the  gold-lace,  and  ad- 
miral-like uniforms  of  popular  toreros.  Then  all  Mexico  comes 
forward  to  its  balconies  to  see  and  to  be  seen ; the  agile  rateros 
begin  to  ply  their  light-fingered  trade;  the  air  is  redolent  of 
perfume  and  is  filled  with  the  swishing  of  skirts  and  the  sounds 
of  a moving  throng;  flower- venders  race  alongside  the  open 
carriages  and  thrust  in  huge  bouquets  of  dewy  flowers  arranged 
in  the  most  doubtful  taste ; and  dog- venders  appear  on  the  scene 
and  offer  diminutive,  and  sometimes  expostulating,  canines  — 
fluffy  and  be-ribboned  — to  the  pedestrians.  From  across 
the  flat  roofs  come  the  tones  of  church-bells  — metal-tongued 
muezzins  calling  the  devotees  to  vespers  and  to  prayer. 

Few,  too  few,  of  the  national  costumes  appear  in  these  as- 


260  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


American  Club. 


semblies.  The  graceful  mantilla  is  still  in  vogue,  but  the  usual 
gowns  of  the  ladies  are  Parisian,  with  a spice  of  Spain — - 
noticeable  for  their  variety  and  elegance.  As  a rule  the  mili- 
tary aspect  of  the  streets  is  pleasing  to  the  visitor.  The  Mexi- 
can soldado  in  his  neat  uniform  is  a conspicuous  figure  in  the 
city  life,  and  squads  of  soldiers  captained  by  dashing  officers 
are  frequently  to  be  seen  marching  between  the  different  bar- 
racks ; the  foot-soldiers  recall  those  of  Italy,  while  the  uniforms 
of  the  cavalry  officers  are  after  Teutonic  designs. 

Toward  7 o’clock  the  cafes  fill  up,  and  the  streets  are  then 
a blaze  of  light;  at  9 the  calles  are  as  quiet  as  they  erstwhile 
were  noisy,  and  along  toward  10,  Mexico  City  goes  home  to 
bed.  Only  the  echoing  tread  of  a belated  pedestrian,  or  the 
whizzing  of  an  automobile  breaks  the  quiet,  and  until  morning 
the  capital  is  as  still  and  as  peaceful  as  a country  village. 

The  altitude,  coupled  with  the  fact  that  many  Mexicans 
are  early  risers,  has  something  to  do  with  the  absence  of  noisy  | 
night-life  in  the  capital.  At  this  great  elevation  the  air  has 
the  tonic  effect  of  champagne,  and  under  its  stimulating  in- 
fluence one  feels  possessed  of  almost  limitless  energy.  But  in  a 
way  this  is  deceptive,  for  along  toward  10  p.  m.,  after  a busy  ! 
day,  lassitude  begins  to  assert  itself,  and  the  most  energetic  | 
are  willing  to  resort  to  “ nature’s  sweet  restorer.” 

The  American  Club  is  in  the  Avenida  16  de  Septiembre, 
almost  opposite  the  Olimpia  Theatre,  and  nearby  are  several  j 
restaurants  which  cater  to  foreigners.  Overlooking  the  Avenida  i 
F.  I . Madera,  diagonally  across  from  the  San  Felipe  Church , 
is  the  beautiful  House  of  Tiles  (described  in  detail  at  p.  326),  j 
the  one-time  home  of  the  celebrated  Jockey  Club,  but  now  ; 
occupied  by  one  of  the  most  famous  restaurants  in  Latin 
America.  Adjacent,  across  the  narrow  Calle  de  la  Condesaf  | 
is  the  sometime  manorial  Palacio  de  Escandon,  with  its  I 
attractive  little  Plazuela  de  Guardiola , facing  the  hotel  of  the 
same  name. 

At  the  r.ight  of  the  Palacio , in  the  midst  of  spacious  grounds 
allotted  to  it,  at  the  upper  end  of  the  Alameda  and  overlooking 
the  wide  Avenida  Juarez , is  the  new  and  beautiful  Teatro 
Nacional  (p.  326c),  one  of  the  most  striking  and  ornate  build- 
ings in  Mexico,  if  not  in  the  Americas.  It  is  a charming  ex- 
pression in  sculptured  marble,  of  the  Mexican’s  love  for  music 
and  the  dramatic  arts;  its  unique  features  being  an  unusually  j 
felicitous  blend  of  Aztec  architecture  with  various  of  the 
other  classical  orders,  and  a colored  glass  curtain  imported  | 
from  New  York  at  a cost  of  forty  thousand  dollars! 

Converging  streets  at  this  point  make  the  spot  one  of  the 
busiest  in  the  city.  Like  many  other  cities  of  the  world,  the 
trend  in  Mexico  City  is  westward,  and  the  small  houses  which 
for  so  many  years  were  features  of  this  section  are  fast  giving 
way  to  modern  structures  wherein  business  can  be  conducted. 


Buildings. 


MEXICO  CITY 


J+2.  Route.  261 


The  Plaza  Mayor  (described  in  detail  at  p.  265)  is  flanked 
on  the  N.  by  the  Cathedral,  on  the  E.  by  the  National  Palace, 
on  the  S.  by  the  Palacio  Municipal  and  Portal  de  las  Flores , 
and  on  the  W.  by  the  Portal  de  los  Mercadores  and  the  Monte 
de  Piedad,  or  National  Pawn-Shop.  In  the  Zocalo  in  front  of 
the  Cathedral  nearly  all  of  the  city  tram-cars  have  their  ter- 
mini. The  Flower  Market,  or  Mercado  de  Flores , — handsome 
only  because  of  its  flowers,  — stands  at  the  N.-W.  corner  of 
the  Cathedral. 

This  plaza  at  the  E.,  and  the  Equestrian  Statue  of  Charles  IV 
(PL  F,  4,  p.  373)  at  the  W.,  — both  connected  in  a straight  line 
by  the  Avenida  de  F.  I.  Madero  and  the  Ave . Juarez , — are 
good  points  to  fix  in  the  mind  from  which  to  get  one’s  bearings. 
The  plaza  marks  the  one-time  centre  of  the  Colonial  city,  while 
the  Bronze  Horse  typifies  the  grafting  of  the  old  on  to  the  new. 
The  chief  hotels,  the  foreign  business  houses,  some  of  the  best 
shops,  and  much  of  the  attractive  city  life  lie  midway  between. 

Some  3 squares  N.  of  the  Flower  Market  is  the  old  Santo 
Domingo  Church  (p.  353)  and  plaza , and  the  School  of  Medi- 
cine (p.  356),  where  the  hateful  Inquisition  had  its  first  head- 
quarters in  New  Spain.  Immediately  to  the  S.-E.  of  this  spot, 
in  the  4a  Calle  de  Donceles,  are  certain  of  the  government 
offices,  the  School  of  Jurisprudence  and  a host  of  public 
notaries  ( notarios  publicos).  Here  also  is  the  old  Church  of 
La  Encarnacibn  (p.  357) ; that  of  Santa  Catalina  de  Sena 
(p.  357),  and  the  splendid  old  Jesuit  College  of  San  Ildefonso 
(p.  360),  now  the  Escuela  Nacional  Preparatoria.  The  edifice 
is  one  of  the  most  strikingly  handsome  Colonial  structures 
in  the  city.  Hard  by,  too,  is  the  new  Camera  de  Diputados , 
where  Congress  meets  from  Sept.  16  to  Dec.  15,  and  from 
April  1 to  May  15.  Due  E.  of  this  region  is  the  ancient 
Church  of  Nuestra  Sehora  de  Loreto  (p.  362),  a former  Jesuit 
stronghold  now  leaning  to  its  fall.  Toward  the  S.  is  the  Church 
of  La  Santisima  Trinidad  (p.365),  with  one  of  the  finest 
Churrigueresque  facades  in  the  city.  A few  squares  E.  of  this 
ch.  is  the  San  Lazaro  Railway  Station  (p.  367),  the  New 
Penitentiary  (p.  368),  and  the  Rastro  Nuevo , or  abattoir. 
Hereabout  the  neighborhood  is  dingy,  and  cleanliness  does 
not  have  its  habitat.  Though  now  one  of  the  oldest  and  most 
unprepossessing  districts  of  the  city,  at  the  zenith  of  the 
Colonial  epoch  it  was  one  of  the  most  fashionable.  Between 
this  point  and  the  Palacio  Nacional  (due  W.)  are  a number 
of  architectural  relics  of  vice-regal  days:  huge  rambling 
palacios,  constructed  of  pink  tezontle,  with  many  gargoyles 
and  many  niches  once  occupied  by  carved  saints.  Look  in 
whatever  direction  you  will,  the  gaze  rests  upon  a church, 
and  at  noontime,  when  the  bells  ring  in  unison,  the  traveller 
is  reminded  of  early  mornings  in  Florence.  The  Calles  de  la 
Moneday  which  flank  the  Palacio  on  the  N.,  and  extend  out 


262  Route  J$. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Thieves ’ Market , 


toward  the  Sardisima  Trinidad , were  once  the  exact  centre 
of  the  wealth  and  power  of  New  Spain,  for  here  was  located 
the  mint  (p.  364)  from  which,  during  several  centuries,  there 
issued  a stream  of  silver  pesos  so  long  that  it  reached  the 
maritime  border  of  far  Cathay.  Right  here,  too,  is  the  some- 
time  splendid  Escuela  or  Academia  de  Bellas  Artes  (p.  310), 
or  the  National  Picture  Gallery.  The  spot  was  an  art  centre 
before  the  Pilgrims  landed  on  Plymouth  Rock.  Not  far  away 
a book  (the  first  issued  in  the  New  World)  was  printed  on  a 
printing-press  brought  from  Spain  25  years  before  Shake- 
speare was  born.  Mass  was  said  in  some  of  the  neighboring 
churches  half  a century  before  Miles  Standish  was  bom,  or  the 
Pilgrim  Fathers  dreamed  of  religious  liberty  in  a Western 
world.  At  the  N.  side  of  the  Palacio  National  — and  an  in- 
tegral part  of  that  great  edifice  — is  the  highly  interesting 
Museo  Nacional  (p.  298)  with  a host  of  relics  of  a civilization 
that  existed  here  centuries  before  Christopher  Columbus  was 
thought  of. 

Just  as  the  Avenidas  de  F.  I.  Madero  and  Juarez  connect 
the  old  city  with  the  new,  so  does  the  broad,  and  foreign- 
lookingArc.  Cinco  de  Mayo  link  the  Cathedral — one  of  the 
oldest,  and,  perchance,  the  most  interesting  edifices  in  the  Re- 
public — with  the  superb  new  National  Theatre  — the  one 
symbolic  of  the  early  Colonial  days,  the  other  of  20th  century 
Mexico  and  its  highest  architectural  achievement.  Imme- 
diately to  the  N.-E.  of  this  splendid  theatre  is  the  new  Palacio 
de  Correos  (Post-Office,  p.  328),  indubitably  one  of  the  hand- 
somest secular  structures  in  the  Republic.  Extending  back 
from  the  theatre  toward  the  W.  is  the  fine  Alameda  (p.  327), 
with  its  noble  trees,  playing  fountains,  sempiternal  sunshine, 
its  birds  and  perennially  blooming  flowers.  The  neighborhood 
directly  to  the  N.  of  the  post-office  is  tawdry  and  uninterest- 
ing. Next  door,  to  the  E.,  is  the  tottering  old  School  of  Mines 
(p.  330),  once  the  finest  structure  in  the  metropolis,  but  now 
sadly  infirm,  and  in  sharp  contrast  to  the  splendid  sister- 
edifice  erected  a century  later.  This  old  palacio,  which  once 
sheltered  General  U.  S.  Grant,  and  more  than  once  the  Em- 
peror Maximilian,  is  slowly  sinking  into  the  marlaceous  crater 
below  the  city,  and  paving  the  way,  according  to  local  archi- 
tects, for  any  other  unusually  heavy  building  to  be  erected 
on  the  unstable  foundation  below  the  capital. 

South  of  the  Plaza  Mayor , in  the  midst  of  a native  ghetto 
where  cleanliness  is  considered  a sin  and  slothfulness  a virtue, 
is  the  huge  Merced  Market,  and  midway  between  it  and  the 
plaza  is  the  Mercado  del  Volador,  or  so-called  Thieves’ 
Market  (PI.  H,  4,  p.  296),  soon  to  be  relegated  to  a fathomless 
and  well-merited  oblivion.  Here  also  stands  the  fine  old 
University  (p.  343),  once  the  centre  of  learning  in  the  Crown 
Colonies,  and  bearing  the  same  relation  to  New  Spain  that 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  263 


the  historic  University  of  Salamanca  did  to  Old  Spain.  Far 
to  the  S.-E.  of  this  spot  — which  was  once  a play-ground 
in  the  yard  of  Montezuma’s  Palace  — is  LaViga  (PL  H,  6, 
p.  350)  with  its  vanished  glory,  its  whilom  floating  gardens, 
and  its  gilded  memories.  Time  was  when  gay,  flower-decked, 
Indian  pirogues  from  Xochimilco  paddled  down  this  canal 
and  right  away  up  to  the  Portal  de  las  Flores  on  the  south  side 
of  the  Plaza  Mayor.  But  each  year  or  so  clips  a bit  off  the  city 
end  of  this  now  tawdry  and  dirty  waterway,  and  in  this  hal- 
lowed and  strenuous  cycle  its  N.  terminus  represents  a long 
and  frowsy  walk  from  the  animated  Zocalo. 

Far  to  the  S.,  in  a direct  line,  is  the  pleasant  suburban  town 
of  Tlalpan  (p.  405),  and  between  it  and  the  city  stands  the 
handsome  Club  Campestre  (described  at  p.  407),  and  the  im- 
mense Hospicio  de  los  Pobres  (p.  353),  completed  in  1907. 

To  the  E.  and  S.  are  the  lakes  of  Xochimilco , T excoco,  Chaleo 
and  their  smaller  dependencies ; while  directly  northward  is 
the  famous  Hill  of  Tepeyac  (V.  PI.  C,  2)  and  the  celebrated 
Shrine  of  Our  Lady  of  Guadalupe,  described  at  p.  392. 

The  neighborhood  immediately  to  the  S.-W.  of  the  Plaza 
Mayor  is  devoted  to  many  huge  department  stores,  to  some 
of  the  largest  native  banks  in  the  Repub.,  and  to  the  magni- 
ficent old  Biblioteca  Nacional  (PI.  G,  5,  p.  344)  housed  in 
the  old  San  Agustin  Church  — the  one-time  resort  of  religious 
enthusiasts  who  went  hither  for  disciplinary  flagellation. 
Hard  by  is  the  house  in  which  Baron  Alexander  Von  Humboldt 
lodged  when  he  was  in  the  Mexican  capital.  At  the  corner  of 
the  la  Calle  de  Capuchinas  and  the  5a  Calle  Bolivar,  is  the  house 
(tablet)  where  Simon  Bolivar  lived  in  1799.  The  street  and  its 
prolongation  is  named  for  him,  and  his  memory  is  revered  by 
Mexicans. 

Due  S.  from  this  neighborhood  is  the  old  Causeway  along 
which  the  valorous  Spaniards  came  firmly  but  jauntily  in 
1519  on  their  first  visit  to  the  Aztec  capital.  About  1 M.  to 
the  W.  is  the  frowsy,  but  vastly  celebrated  Belem  Prison 
(PI.  F,  5,  p.  369),  and  near  it  is  the  Ciudadela,  described  at 
p.  369. 

At  some  little  distance  to  the  S.-W.  of  the  Bronze  Horse 
(p.  373)  is  the  Colonia  Juarez,  one  li  the  finest  civic  im- 
provements ever  grafted  on  to  the  old  city.  Here  American 
ideas  of  architecture  and  hygiene  have  attained  their  highest 
development  in  Mexico,  and  hence  they  have  radiated  a wide- 
spread influence  — and  a most  praiseworthy  one.  The  Colonia 
is  the  focus  of  the  American,  English,  French  and  German 
wealth  and  fashion  of  the  metropolis;  the  clean  asphalt 
streets  — some  of  which  are  flanked  by  rows  of  fine  trees  — - 
are  named  for  European  cities  — Berlin,  Hamburg,  London, 
Liverpool,  Vienna  and  the  like  (comp.  p.  255).  Due  S.  across 
the  Chapultepec  and  Tacubaya  car-tracks  is  the  handsome 


264  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Colonia  Roma  (due  likewise  to  American  capital  and  energy), 
one  of  the  most  attractive  of  the  city’s  suburbs,  with  avenues 
100  ft.  wide  and  side  streets  66  ft.  wide,  and  the  fine  Plaza 
de  Orizaba.  The  colony  dates  from  1903,  and  most  of  the 
houses  were  erected  and  sold  on  the  instalment  plan. 

Westward  still,  stretches  the  fine  new  Colonia  Condesa 
with  some  splendid  public  fountains  and  the  gigantic  Bull- 
Ring  (comp.  p.  xcvii).  The  chief  plaza  is  the  P.  Miravalle.  The 
calles  (as  well  as  those  of  the  C.  Roma)  are  named  for  Mexican 
states  and  cities.  Countryward  from  Condesa  are  the  Colonias 
de  Hidalgo  and  Indianilla,  one  street  of  the  latter  being 
called  Calle  del  Hospital,  the  remainder  named  for  noted 
physicians,  — Pasteur , Casimiro  Liceaga,  Claudio  Bernard , 
etc.  The  chief  plaza  is  the  P.  de  Hidalgo.  Still  further  toward 
the  S.  are  the  towns  of  Churubusco  (p.  407),  Coyoacan  (p.  408), 
the  Pedregal  (p.  411),  La  Piedad  (p.  416),  and  San  Angel 
(p.  412).  In  the  hills  behind  the  latter  town  is  the  sometime 
interesting  ecclesiastical  retreat  known  as  El  Desierto 
(the  desert),  at  present  a favorite  trip  for  automobilists,  but 
without  absorbing  interest  tor  the  traveller.  Toward  the  S.-W. 
lie  Tacubaya  (p.  417)  and  Mixcoac  (p.  416).  Between  Tacu - 
bay  a and  Condesa  are  the  wide  Parque  Central  and  the 
Plaza  del  Hipodromo. 

At  the  west  terminus  of  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma  is  the 
magnificent  hill-top  Castle  of  Chapultepec  (p.  379),  sur- 
rounded by  the  finest  park  in  the  Republic.  The  Paseo  flanks 
the  Colonia  Juarez  on  the  N.,  and  beside  being  instinct  with 
historic  and  literary  associations,  it  is  the  handsomest  and 
most  frequented  boulevard  in  Mexico.  The  noteworthy  statues 
of  Charles  IV,  Columbus , Cuauhtemoc  and  that  to  Independ- 
ence, are  described  at  pp.  373-8.  Midway  between  the  Iron 
Horse  and  Chapultepec,  on  the  N.,  is  the  Estacion  de  Colonia 
of  the  National  Railways  of  Mexico.  Directly  to  the  rear 
of  this,  trending  toward  Chapultepec,  is  the  new  Colonia 
( Jo  mjhtemoc,  with  streets  named  for  well-known  rivers  — the 
Rhine,  Danube,  Guadalquivir,  Tiber  and  whatnot.  The  chief 
plazas  are  those  of  Juanacatlan  and  Necaxa.  Southward  is 
the  Recreation  Ground  of  the  Spanish  Colony.  Immediately 
to  the  N.  is  the  Colonia  de  San  Rafael  with  some  wide 
streets  named  for  famous  men  — Velasquez  de  Leon,  Guillermo 
Prieto,  Garcia  Icazbalceta  and  so  on.  The  Calles  de  Ramon 
Guzman,  and  their  short  and  narrow  prolongation,  the  Calle 
de  Mejia,  form  a direct  thoroughfare  between  the  Colonia 
rlv.  station  and  those  of  Buena  Vista.  N.  of  the  San  Ra- 
fael Colony  is  the  historic  San  Cosme,  flanked  on  the  N.  by 
the  fine  Colonia  de  Santa  Maria  (p.  341),  with  the  splen- 
did Instituto  Geologico  Nacional  (p.  341),  and  a flower- 
embowered  Alameda.  Countryward  are  the  Colonias  de  Santa 
Julia,  Tlaxpana,  Popotla,  Tacuba  (with  its  celebrated  Noche 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  265 


Plaza  Mayor. 

Triste  Tree  (p.418),  Azcapotzalco  and  the  station  of  Naucdl- 
pam , with  its  hill  and  shrine  of  Nuestra  Senora  de  los  Remedios 
(p.  191). 

Central  Quarter  of  the  City. 

Plaza  de  la  Constitucion.  Palacio  Nacional.  Cathedral.  Munici- 
pal Palace.  Flower  Market.  Portales.  National  Pawn-Shop. 
Thieves’  Market.  Enrico  Martinez  Monument.  National  Mu- 
seum. San  Carlos  Picture  Gallery. 

The  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion,  known  also  as  the  P.  Mayor , 
Zdcalo  (socle),  P.  de  Armas  and  P.  de  la  Catedral,  the  geograph- 
ical centre  of  the  ancient  Aztec  city,  — though  far  from  oc- 
cupying that  point  in  the  present  city,  — is  the  largest  plaza 
in  the  Republic  and  one  of  the  most  animated  and  interesting 
spots  in  the  capital.  Here  the  wandering  Aztecs  first  saw  (in 
1325)  the  symbolic  eagle  and  snake  (comp.  p.  clxiv),  and  on  this 
spot  they  erected  later  their  first  and  greatest  teocalli  — temple. 
A portion  of  the  present  plaza  was  formerly  included  in  the 
teocalli  grounds;  the  remainder  was  a part  of  the  reserve  sur- 
rounding the  palace  of  Montezuma.  The  spot  was  the  scene 
(1521)  of  a sanguinary  battle  between  the  Aztecs  and  the  im 
vading  Spaniards.  After  the  fall  of  Tenochtitldn  the  victorious 
Iberians  destroyed  the  massive  temple  and  the  adjoining  edi- 
fices, and  filled  in  the  converging  canals  with  their  debris.  Histo- 
rians speak  of  the  spot  as  the  Aztec  forum,1  the  great  depository 
of  ancient  sculpture,  which  uow  lies  hid  in  its  bosom.  The  sub- 
soil is  a museum  of  stone  idols  and  Aztec  relics.  (Such  monu- 
ments are,  however,  scattered  all  through  the  capital,  and  a 
“foundation  can  scarcely  be  laid  beneath  the  surface  without 
turning  up  some  of  the  mouldering  relics  of  barbaric  art.”) 
The  Aztec  Calendar  Stone  and  many  of  the  idols  and  sculp- 
tures in  the  National  Museum  were  dug  up  here.  The  Christian 
Spaniards  erected  a gallows  on  the  site  of  the  teocalli,  where 
thousands  of  victims  were  immolated  each  year,  and  for  many 
years  after  the  Conquest  an  array  of  criminal  Castilian  heads 
grinned  a grisly  welcome  to  the  astonished  country  Indians 
who  came  to  the  capital  to  learn  of  the  gentle  religion  taught 
by  the  strangers. 

Considerable  political  interest  is  connected  with  this  plaza. 
On  Sept.  27,  1821,  Agustin  de  Iturbide  rode  into  the  square, 
at  the  head  of  his  victorious  army,  and  was  cheered  as  a liber- 
ator. He  was  here  proclaimed  emperor  on  the  night  of  May 
18,  1822,  and  on  July  21  of  the  same  year  he  and  his  wife 
crossed  the  plaza  and  entered  the  Cathedral  to  receive  the 
crown  which  is  supposed  to  lie  heavily  on  imperial  heads. 
The  bronze  equestrian  statue  of  Charles  IV  (now  facing 

1 The  Plaza  of  Tlaltelolco  (now  Santiago ) is  nearly  as  prolific  in  ancient 
monuments  as  the  Plaza  Mayor;  some  of  the  finest  of  theAztec  sculptures 
now'  in  the  museum  were  unearthed  there.  Father  Olmedo , chaplain  to 
Cortes , w'as  buried  there  in  1524. 


266  Route  42.  MEXICO  CITY  Plaza  Mayor . 

the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma)  was  erected  here  Nov.  9,  1803,  and 
it  was  removed  (1824)  for  safe-keeping  to  the  patio  of  the  Uni- 
versity. For  many  years  the  plaza  was  used  as  a great  market 
( parian ) and  it  was  the  centre  of  Mexico’s  richest  trade. 
The  parian  was  a species  of  great  bazaar  (of  which  the  Aztec 
tianguiz  was  the  prototype)  and  through  it,  in  a golden  stream, 
passed  the  rich  and  quaint  products  of  the  Indian  world. 
During  the  great  revolutionary  riot  of  Dec.,  1828,  the  houses 
of  the  wealthy  merchants  located  near  the  parian  or  Alcai- 
ceria  (so  called  because  built  after  the  manner  of  the  raw  silk 
market  in  Manila,  P.  I.)  were  sacked  and  destroyed  and  the 
market  disappeared.  Soon  thereafter,  the  merchants  moved  to 
Plateros  and  San  Francisco  streets,  and  these  became  the 
greatest  marts  of  the  capital.  The  garden  of  the  Zocalo  de- 
rives its  name  from  the  socle  placed  there  about  1850  as  the 
foundation  for  a monument  to  Mexican  Independence.  A 
music-stand  was  erected  instead,  and  the  monument  rose 
(comp.  p.  378)  in  the  fourth  glorieta  of  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma. 
The  American  flag  floated  above  the  plaza,  from  the  National 
Palace,  in  1847,  and  it  was  followed,  in  1863,  by  the  tri-color 
of  France.  The  Austrian  Archduke  Maximilian  received  his 
sinister  welcome  here  June  12,  1864,  and  here  on  Feb.  13, 
1867,  he  bade  a last  farewell  to  his  adherents.  General  Por- 
firio  Diaz  was  here  greeted  as  a patriot  and  hero  on  June  21, 
1867,  and  again  on  Nov.  23,  1875,  after  the  successful  revolu- 
tion of  Tuxtepec.  In  point  of  progress  and  enlightenment, 
his  appearance  on  the  scene  proved  the  most  momentous  of  all 
that  preceded  him. 

The  first  house  of  the  present  city  was  erected  here  (1522) 
by  the  Conquistadores,  and  later  the  Palacio  Nacional  (p.  267) 
arose  and  became  the  foci  of  the  Spanish  Crown  possessions 
in  the  New  World.  For  centuries  the  memory  of  the  Conquest 
was  annually  celebrated  here  on  Aug.  13.  The  first  Bull- 
fights (comp.  p.  xcvii)  held  in  America  were  given  here  in  June, 
1526,  soon  after  the  Conquest,  and  in  1571  the  plaza  became 
the  chosen  exhibition  grounds  of  the  Inquisition  (p.  356) ; j 
a Dominican  institution  imported  for  the  benefit  of  those  who  | 
“ by  the  grace  of  God  should  be  kept  free  from  heresy.”  On 
the  morning  of  April  11,  1649,  a procession  from  the  alleged  j 
Holy  Office  crossed  the  plaza,  and  13  unfortunates  were  stran- 
gled at  the  Volador  (p.  296)  market,  and  later  burned  at  the  | 
Quemadero,  at  the  foot  of  the  Alameda  (p.  327).  Many  gor- 
geous religious  processions  have  crossed  this  square,  and  it 
has  been  the  theatre  of  many  stirring  political  events.  No 
stranger  who  finds  himself  in  Mexico  City  on  the  night  of 
Sept.  15,  and  the  following  day,  should  fail  to  visit  the  spot. 
The  celebration  of  Mexican  Independence,  the  ringing  of  the 
Independence  Bell  (see  p.  268)  and  the  famous  grito,  from 
the  balcony  of  the  palacio , are  very  impressive. 


1-4— 


T' 


ratio  de  Honor 


JL 


3 


■ 

?! 


" “ 


•Til, 


UPPER  FLOOR 
PRESIDENTIAL  SUITE 

**  Entrance  to  the  Conserjerta 

1 Salon  de  Espera 

2 “ Hidalgo 

3 “ Rojo 

4 Salita  Blanca 

5 Salon  de  Fumar 

6 Biblioteca  Particular  del  Presidents 

7 Salon  de  Consejo  dt  Ministros 

8 Biblioteca  de  la  Xacion 

9 Salon  Verde 

10  Sala  Verde  Chica 

11  Sala  de  Ay ud antes  del  Presidente 

12  Salon  Amanllo 


Palacio  Nacional.  MEXICO  CITY 


Jfi.  Route . 267 


Reminders  of  the  palmy  days  of  the  parian  are  the  venders 
of  fruits,  sweets,  beverages  and  whatnot  who  still  erect  their 
little  stalls  on  the  W.  side  of  the  square.  On  certain  days, 
the  Indians  from  the  outlying  villages  bring  many  crude, 
home-made  articles  here  and  offer  them  for  sale.  In  the  atrium 
of  the  Cathedral  a petty  commerce  in  prayer-books,  legends, 
pictures  of  saints  and  whatnot  is  effected,  and  the  adjacent 
portales  (comp.  p.  294)  swarm  with  ice-cream  sellers,  toy 
bazaars,  and  stands  where  candy,  books,  spectacles,  post- 
cards (some  of  a pornographic  character),  visiting-cards  and 
such  are  sold.  On  Sundays,  national  holidays,  religious  fiestas, 
etc.,  the  plaza  is  animated  and  picturesque. 

No  fewer  than  ten  streets  end  in  this  plaza.  The  stately 
Ave.  Cinco  de  Mayo , the  Ave.  de  F . I.  Madero , the  Ave.  16 
de  Septiembre  (formerly  Tlapaleros  and  Independencia ), 
and  the  Calle  de  Tacuba  (the  one-time  Aztec  causeway)  lead 
westward  from  the  Zocalo  to  the  great  Paseo,  the  new  foreign 
colonias  and  the  Castle  of  Chapultepec,  on  the  W.  margin  of 
the  city.  The  Ave.  de  F.  I.  Madero , which  contains  some  of 
the  most  elegant  shops  in  the  city,  forms  the  shortest  route 
to  the  Alameda.  After  about  \ M.  this  fine  avenue  (until  1908 
known  as  the  1st  and  2d  streets  of  San  Francisco,  Profesaand 
Plateros)  expands  into  the  broad  Avenida  Juarez,  which  is 
flanked  on  the  N.  by  the  splendid  Alameda  and  the  Teatro 
Nacional.  This  is  a favorite  route  for  public  processions.  The 
Ave.  5 de  Mayo  is  one  of  the  widest  streets  of  the  inner  city, 
and  it  is  perhaps  the  most  foreign  looking  of  all  the  city  streets. 
The  calles  on  the  N.-E.  and  S.  sides  of  the  plaza  are  not,  as 
a rule,  as  interesting  to  the  stranger  as  those  at  the  W. 

At  each  corner  of  the  little  jardin  which  occupies  the  centre 
of  the  plaza  is  a bronze  Pegasus,  surmounting  a pedestal.  Two 
of  the  groups  typify  music,  and  two  tragedy.  All  are  the  work 
of  the  Spanish  sculptor  Agustin  Querol,  who  did  much  of  the 
bronze  work  which  adorns  the  new  Tedtro  Nacional  overlook- 
ing the  Avenida  Juarez.  The  four  groups  were  made  for  the 
teatro,  and  upon  completion  were  placed  in  the  positions 
designed  for  them,  on  the  roof  above  the  stage.  Their  alti- 
tudinous  situation  rendered  them  inconspicuous,  and  they 
were  transferred  to  the  plaza  in  1922. 

Thousands  of  tram-cars  pass  through  the  plaza  in  the  course 
of  a day,  the  host  of  city  lines  making  of  it  their  regular  start- 
ing point  and  terminus.  These,  with  the  automobiles,  cabs, 
pedestrians  and  whatnot  render  it  the  busiest  spot  in  the  city 
— and  one  of  the  most  picturesque. 

El  Palacio  Nacional,  or  National  Palace  (comp.  PI.  H,  4, 
also  the  accompanying  plan  of  the  palacio ),  whose  imposing 
facade  extends  along  the  entire  E.  side  of  the  Plaza  Mayor 
(with  a frontage  of  675  ft.),  occupies  a large  city  block,  con- 
tains a dozen  or  more  patios  or  courtyards,  and  houses  many 


26S  Route  1>2.  MEXICO  CITY  History. 

of  the  government  offices.  Chief  among  these  is  the  office  of 
the  President  of  the  Republic,  the  Senate,  the  Ministerios  de 
Hacienda  and  de  Guerra;  the  Stamp  Printing  Office,  Fed- 
eral Treasury,  Public  Archives,  etc.  On  the  roof  is  the  Ob- 
servatorio  Meteorologico  Central.  The  Museo  Nacional  (p.  298) 
occupies  quarters  in  the  X.  side  of  the  building.  The  Central 
Post-Office  was  moved  hence  to  its  present  site  near  the  Ala- 
meda in  1907.  The  section  occupied  by  it  was  remodelled  in 
1909-10. 

Cards  of  admission  (Sunday  is  visitors  day)  from  one’s  Consul  or  upon 
application  to  the  Intendente  del  Palacio,  in  the  Iniendencia,  at  the  S.  side 
of  the  Patio  de  Honor.  Fees  customary,  but  not  necessary.  As  the  palacio 
is  in  an  almost  constant  state  of  reformation,  and  as  certain  of  the  depart- 
ments are  avowedly  temporary,  no  attempt  is  here  made  to  describe  the 
entire  building  in  detail.  As  a rule  visitors  are  chiefly  interested  in  the 
Museo  Nacional  and  the  presidential  reception-rooms  and  offices. 

The  fagade  is  pierced  by  three  imposing  entrances  which 
correspond  to  the  three  principal  departments  into  which  the 
building  was  divided  during  the  Spanish  occupancy.  The 
door  to  the  r.  (S.)  is  the  Puerta  de  Honor , so-called  because  the 
President  and  diplomats  enter  here;  that  in  the  centre  is 
the  Puerta  Central , or  Principal,  and  that  on  the  1.  (N.)  the 
Puerta  Mariana,  because  it  was  completed  during  the  admin- 
istration of  General  Don  Mariano  Arista.  Facing  this,  from 
within,  is  a huge  (bronze)  seated  figure  of  Benito  Juarez. 

Above  the  central  doorway  is  a clock  which  is  said  to  have 
been  exiled  from  a village  in  Spain  for  having  caused  great 
alarm  there  by  striking  on  its  own  accord.  Here  also  is  the 
famous  Liberty  Bell  ( Campana  de  la  Independencia ) rung 
by  the  patriot  Miguel  Hidalgo  in  the  Dolores  Church  (comp, 
p.  cci)  as  a tocsin  to  convoke  a meeting  of  patriots  on  the 
night  of  Sept.  15,  IS  10.  From  the  balcony  at  this  point  the 
president  voices  (on  the  night  of  Sept.  15  of  each  year)  the 
celebrated  Grito  de  Dolores.  The  line  of  small  turrets  ( almenas ), 
along  the  upper  cornice,  indicate,  according  to  the  principles 
of  heraldry,  that  the  edifice  is  inhabited  by  a war-lord  with 
vassals.  Above  the  Puerta  de  Honor  is  a winged  female  fig- 
ure, in  bronze,  typifying  Peace.  The  Mexican  Senate  ( senado ) 
holds  its  meetings  in  the  palacio  (in  a salon  of  the  second  floor 
overlooking  the  patio  principal)  from  Sept.  16  to  Dec.  15  and 
from  April  1 to  May  15. 

History.  Before  the  Conquest  the  site  now  occupied  by  the  palacio 
was  covered  by  La  Nueva  Casa  de  Motecuhzoma  ( Montezuma ),  a huge 
rambling  structure  which  spread  also  to  the  present  sites  of  the  University 
and  the  Vnlador  Market.  After  the  city  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Span- 
iards, Cortes  appropriated  the  property,  which  was  later  ceded  to  him  by 
a decree  signed  by  Charles  V at  Barcelona,  July  27,  1529.  Cortes  soon 
thereafter  began  the  construction  of  a large,  squat,  fortress-like  house, 
half  residence  and  half  offices,  which  remained  in  possession  of  his  heirs 
until  Jan.,  1562,  at  which  time  it  was  purchased  for  the  Spanish  Crown 
by  the  second  Viceroy,  Don  Luis  de  Velasco,  who  paid  therefor  34,000 


Palacio  Nacional.  MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  269 


Castellanos  ; the  equivalent  of  about  33,300  pesos.  In  the  national 
archives  is  a voluminous  correspondence  carried  on  between  the  half- 
demented  Spanish  King  and  the  Mexican  Archbishop  relative  to  this 
transaction.  The  niggardly  monarch  knew  the  meaning  of  colonial 
“graft,”  and,  suspecting  that  he  was  being  cheated,  he  questioned  the 
transaction  so  shrewdly  that  the  Arzobispo  went  to  great  length  to  prove 
to  him  how  such  and  such  a portion  of  the  new  palacio  could  be  utilized 
for  government  offices,  stores  and  whatnot,  and  that  the  annual  returns 
from  the  investment  would  be  such  and  such  a sum.  The  purchase  was 
decided  upon  only  after  the  exasperated  prelate  suggested  that  other 
Crown  properties  could  be  sold  to  good  advantage  and  the  profit  derived 
therefrom  applied  to  the  investment  at  issue.  One  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand  maravedls  ($220)  was  all  the  parsimonious  king  would  allow 
out  of  his  privy  purse  for  the  repairs  needed  on  the  house.  The  bill- 
of-sale  was  drawn  up  and  signed  by  Velasco  Jan.  29,  1562,  and  soon 
thereafter  he  took  possession  of  the  property  in  the  name  of  his  suspicious 
and  truculent  master. 

During  the  great  riot  of  June  8,  1692,  the  palacio  (then  known  as  the 
Casa  del  Estado)  suffered  so  severely  at  the  hands  of  the  infuriated  mob 
that  its  re-edification  was  considered  necessary,  and  this  was  begun 
under  the  surveillance  of  the  Viceroy  (29th)  Gaspar  de  la  Cerda  Sandoval 
Silva  y Mendoza , Conde  de  Galve.  The  plans  were  those  of  Fray  Diego 
de  Valverde,  who  probably  designed  the  great  patio , or  central  court 
(renovated  in  1908),  with  its  galleries  and  40  fine  arches  on  the  lower  and 
upper  floor.  It  is  quite  likely  that  the  section  in  the  extreme  rear,  of 
pink  tezontle,  was  left  untouched,  and  dates  from  the  time  of  Cortes.  The 
palacio  remained  practically  as  this  viceroy  left  it,  until  1820. 

For  many  years  the  site  was  a plague  spot,  and  hard  by  the  structure 
ran  open  sewers  into  which  all  manner  of  refuse  was  heedlessly  thrown. 
Between  the  palacio  and  the  Cathedral  was  an  uninviting  cemetery;  and 
the  public  letrinas  and  the  grisly  gibbet  which  defaced  the  Plaza  Mayor, 
aided  to  make  the  environs  far  from  healthy  or  beautiful.  These  condi- 
tions were  changed  when  the  51st  Viceroy,  Juan  Vicente  de  Guemes 
Pacheco  de  Padilla,  Conde  de  Revillagigedo  — a man  with  a genius  and 
passion  for  civic  improvement  — appeared  on  the  scene.  He  repaired 
the  palacio,  cleaned  the  plaza,  hanged  the  grafters  on  their  own  gallows, 
and  so  cleansed  and  freshened  the  city  generally  that  it  has  never  relapsed 
into  its  old  state. 

Additions  were  made  to  the  palace  as  caprice  or  occasion  dictated  or 
required:  considerable  restorative  work  was  completed  during  the  brief 
but  tempestuous  r^ign  of  the  Emperor  Maximilian.  The  present  structure, 
though  noted  neither  for  architectural  grace  nor  for  beauty,  has  a certain 
effectiveness  which  does  not  fail  to  impress  the  visitor. 

We  enter  through  the  Puerto  Principal,  mount  the  broad, 
bare  stairway  immediately  to  the  1.,  turn  to  the  r.  when  we 
reach  the  upper  floor,  and  proceed  along  the  W.  cloister  or 
corridor  to  the  (S.  end)  entrance  of  the  presidential  apart- 
ments. Here  the  admission  card  is  taken  up  and  a palacio 
employee  (fee  not  obligatory)  conducts  the  visitor  through 
the  rooms.  These  overlook  the  Patio  de  Honor,  which  has 
24  handsome  arches  on  the  lower  floor. 

We  first  enter  the  Salon  de  Espera  (waiting-room),  called 
also  Sala  de  la  Constitucion,  where  the  President  occasion- 
ally gives  interviews.  The  large  allegorical  painting,  Consti- 
tucion de  1857,  is  modern  and  unsigned. 

Salon  de  Hidalgo  (adjoining  the  last).  The  fine  painting 
on  the  r.,  of  Miguel  Hidalgo,  life-size,  is  by  J . Ramirez,  and 
dates  from  1865.  Note  the  handsome  crystal  chandeliers. 
We  turn  to  the  1.  into  the  long,  narrow 


270  Route  J$. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Palaeio  Nacional. 


Salon  Rojo  (red  room).  In  each  corner  is  a splendid 
Chinese  vase  ( tibor ),  on  a gilt  base,  supporting  candelabra. 
They  belonged  to  the  Emperor  Maximilian  and  perhaps  would 
bring,  at  auction,  S50,000  or  more;  since  they  are  fine  (and 
rare)  specimens  of  the  (probably)  late  Kang-he  ware,  showing 
Chinese  freehand  drawing.  The  large  painting  (without  date 
or  name)  on  the  r.  wall  is  of  the  patriot  Jose  Maria  Morelos. 
Note  the  beautiful  gilded  frame  with  the  Mexican  eagle.  The 
large  war  scene  (by  Germ.  Gedovius,  1906)  commemorates 
the  capture  of  General  Diaz,  by  French  troops  between  Puebla 
and  Oaxaca,  during  the  French  Intervention.  The  General 
is  seen  mounted  on  a white  horse  in  the  centre  of  the  picture. 
Carved  into  the  bottom  of  the  frame  ( marco ) is  Prisioneros  de 
Guerra  — prisoners  of  war.  The  large  painting  of  Benito  Juarez 
dates  from  1876  and  is  the  work  of  J.  Escudero.  The  two  mar- 
ble vases  are  Carrara.  The  furnishings  of  the  salon  are  dark 
red.  The  aides  ( ayudantes ) of  the  President  are  usually  sta- 
tioned here.  We  pass  into  the 

Salita  Blanca  (little  white  room),  a small  square  recep- 
tion-room papered  in  light  shades,  with  four  chandeliers  made 
from  Chinese  vases  (perhaps  Blue  and  White  Mandarin,  with 
hemispheric  points  resembling  shagreen ; or,  according  to  the 
Chinese  expression,  “chicken’s  flesh”),  once  the  property 
of  the  Emperor  Maximilian.  The  three  landscape  paintings 
(by  J . M . Velasco ) represent  views  in  the  Valley  of  Mexico. 
Immediately  to  the  1.  of  the  exit  is  the  E scaler  a de  Honor 
(Stairway  of  Honor)  used  by  diplomats  who  come  to  confer 
with  the  President.  On  the  landings  are  three  large,  mottled 
marble  vases.  We  cross  a narrow  pasillo,  mount  a small  stair 
(to  the  1.)  and  emerge  on  a high,  railed-in  balcony  overlooking 
the 

Jardin  del  Palacio  Nacional,  an  attractive  spot  with 
beautifully  kept  walks,  palms,  tall  trees,  fountains  with  gold- 
fish, parterres  of  flowers,  etc.  Descending  the  stair  (kitchen 
on  the  r.  with  American  ranges)  we  enter  the  trinchador , or 
carving-room.  In  a smaller  room,  shut  off  by  an  iron  grill 
(locked),  is  the  palace  silver-plate  ( vajiUa  de  plata),  a heavy 
service  of  pure  silver  (cost,  in  Europe,  $500,000)  which  was 
first  used  when  the  Pan-American  Congress  met  at  Mexico 
City  in  1895.  The  handsomely  carved  wood  ceiling  of  the 

Ante-Comedor  (butler’s  room),  and  the  marquetry  wood 
floor,  were  made  in  Mexico  (modern)  at  the  Talleres  del 
Palaeio  de  Hierro.  Note  the  fine  cut-glass  service  with  the 
national  coat-of-arms.  From  here  we  proceed  to  the 

Comedor  (dining-room),  with  its  magnificent  side-boards 
of  Alsatian  oak  (made  in  Paris)  and  decorated  in  Louis  XV 
style.  Over  the  richly  carved  fireplace  is  a marble  bust  of 
Minerva.  The  three  splendid  silver  epergnes  and  the  fruteros 
(fruit-dishes)  belonged  to  Maximilian,  and  still  bear  the  impe- 


Palacio  National. 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  271 


rial  crest.  (The  remainder  of  this  service  is  at  Chapultepec  and 
in  the  Museo  Nacional.)  The  carved  wood  ceiling  is  of  Euro- 
pean origin.  The  windows,  hung  with  splendid  draperies, 
overlook  the  Thieves’  Market  (comp.  p.  296).  The  fine  crystal 
chandeliers  swing  from  massive  brass  chains.  The  walls 
and  the  furniture  are  decorated  in  crimson  brocade  satin. 
The  Presidential  and  State  banquets  are  given  in  this  room. 
At  the  end  of  this  apartment  is  the 

Salon  de  Fumar  (smoking-room)  in  the  Moorish  style 
( estilo  Morisco)  with  metal  chandeliers  and  adornments  made 
by  native  artisans.  Note  the  small  mirrors  let  into  the  walls 
and  ceiling.  The  marbleized  pillars  that  support  the  Saracenic 
arches  are  of  wood.  The  couches  and  chairs  are  done  in 
crimson-and-gold  thread  brocades,  in  Moorish  colors,  with 
Turkish  cushions.  (Here  the  guide  turns  back  and  the  visitor 
is  escorted  through  the  succeeding  rooms  by  a camarista  who 
has  special  charge  of  them.)  Passing  out  of  the  fumador  we 
enter  the 

Biblioteca  Particular  del  Presidente  (the  President's 
private  library),  a small  square  room  with  a small  collection 
of  legal  books  in  a beautifully  carved  case.  The  two  landscape 
views  and  the  bronze  bust  of  Napoleon  I are  mediocre.  We 
now  enter  the 

Despacho  Particular  del  President  (President’s  private 
office,  called  also  Salon  de  Consejo  de  Ministros),  a regal  room 
with  walls  hung  with  yellow  brocade  satin,  with  fleur-de-lis 
adornments  on  the  ceiling,  splendid  hangings  of  green  broad- 
cloth with  massive  gold  cords  and  monograms,  a carpet  with 
corner  designs  representing  the  national  arms,  and  a splendid 
centre-table  flanked  by  chairs.  Note  the  President’s  chair 
with  the  gilt  eagle.  Also  the  two  fine  French  clocks,  once  the 
property  of  Maximilian.  Likewise  the  French  (new)  tables 
with  marble  tops,  and  the  leather  porte-feuilles  (on  the  cen- 
tre-table) facing  each  chair,  each  with  a small  coat-of-arms 
in  bronze.  In  the  centre  of  the  work-table  is  a silver  ink-stand 
( tintero ) of  Maximilian,  on  the  ink-pots  of  which  the  imperial 
crests  have  been  erased  and  the  letters  P.  N.  ( Palacio  Nacional ) 
engraved  instead.  Maximilian’s  monogram  can  still  be  seen  on 
the  plate  in  which  the  group  rests.  We  pass  from  this  room 
into  the  corner  room,  called  the 

Biblioteca  de  la  Nacion.  The  book-cases  are  locked  and 
curtained.  The  decorations  of  the  room  are  red  and  gold.  The 
handsome  sculptured  group  (of  horses)  on  the  centre-table 
is  a replica  of  a famous  European  design.  The  ceiling  of  this 
room  is  very  ornate.  Leaving  by  the  N.  door  we  enter  the 
beautiful 

Salon  Vuide  (green  room),  where  the  President  gives  pub- 
lic audiences.  The  walls  are  tapestried,  and  the  furniture 
upholstered  with  green  brocade  silk.  The  hangings  are  very 


272  Route  J±2. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Cathedral . 


rich  and  attractive.  The  green  onyx  clock  is  modem.  Facing 
a window  overlooking  the  Plaza  Mayor  is  a huge  alabaster 
vase  on  a column  six  ft.  high.  The  two  white  marble  busts  are 
by  European  sculptors,  in  the 

Sala  Verde  Chica  (small  green  room)  is  a large  painting 
representing  a Roman  chariot  race,  by  Carle  Vernet.  Note 
the  splendid  Hercules  of  Parian  marble.  The  seven  allegorical 
paintings  on  the  ceiling  (by  native  painters)  represent  the 
Law,  etc.  The  candelabra  in  this  room  are  noteworthy.  We 
cross  the  Salita  para  los  ayudantes  del  Presidente,  and  enter 
the  fine 

Salon  Amarillo  (yellow  room),  where  the  President  re- 
ceives foreign  ambassadors.  On  the  r.  is  a huge  painting  of 
Miguel  Hidalgo  y Costilla  holding  aloft  the  banner  of  Guada- 
lupe. The  written  inscription  at  the  bottom  of  the  picture 
says  that  it  represents  the  revolutionary  leader  just  after 
the  battle  of  the  Monte  de  las  Cruces.  It  further  advises 
that  he  was  born  May  8,  1753,  and  when  58  years  of  age  was 
shot  July  31,  1811.  Comp.  p.  27.  The  picture  is  of  heroic  size, 
the  work  of  H.  Faver  (1895).  The  gilt  frame  is  particularly 
handsome.  Further  along  is  a life-size  painting  of  the  German 
Emperor.  On  the  other  side  of  the  salon  is  a large  picture  (by 
J . Cusachs,  1901)  of  President  Porfirio  Diaz  on  horseback.  It 
was  a present  to  the  Federal  District  by  the  State  of  Vera 
Cruz-Llave.  The  doors  of  this  room  are  finely  carved.  We 
leave  the  apartments  by  the  same  door  through  which  we 
entered. 

Above  one  of  the  windows  near  the  side  (N.)  entrance  to  the  palacio 
is  a brass  tablet  1 on  which  is  inscribed,  in  Spanish:  “ Here  stood  the  house 
in  which  the  Meritorious  Benito  Juarez,  Constitutional  President  of  the 
Republic,  died  on  the  night  of  June  IS,  1872.  He  implanted  the  Reform, 
consolidated  Independence  and  Liberty  and  preserved  unstained  the 
National  Dignity.  Mexico  glorifies  his  memorj’  on  this  first  centenary  of 
his  birth,  to-day,  March  21,  1906.” 

According  to  a tablet  over  one  of  the  doors  in  the  upper  corridor  over- 
looking the  Patio  de  Honor , he  was  also  imprisoned  in  the  palacio  at  one 
time. 

Tho  Cathedral  (PI.  H,  4;  comp,  the  accompanying  plan)  is  open  all 
day  till  the  A ve  Maria  (la  Oracion ),  but  the  numerous  masses  often  inter- 
fere with  the  visitor’s  inspection,  especially  of  the  altars  and  choir.  That 
this  interference  is  not  one-sided  is  shown  by  the  placards,  in  Spanish 
and  English,  to  be  noted  on  the  doors  of  the  entrances,  i.  e.,  “No  visitors 
are  allowed  during  divine  services.  The  hours  fixed  for  visiting  the 
Cathedral  are  from  10.30  a.  m.  to  12.30  p.  m.  No  person  is  in  any  way 
whatever  authorized  to  ask  for  or  receive  fees  of  any  kind.”  While  this 
notice  need  not  in  any  way  conflict  with  a quiet  inspection  of  the  Cathedral, 
the  visitor  will  get  a better  return  for  his  time  if  he  can  plan  to  accede  to 
the  requirements.  The  discreet  traveller  who  tactfully  avoids  molesting 
the  worshippers  during  services  will  be  let  alone  bv  all  but  the  snooping 
beggars  — who  will  at  once  retire  if  threatened  with  exposure.  Travellers 
are  cautioned  to  be  on  their  guard  against  pickpockets  ( rateros , comp. 


1 The  wording  on  this  tablet  is  misleading.  Juarez  occupied  a suite  of 
apartments  (located  here)  in  the  present  palacio  when  he  died. 


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Cathedral. 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  273 


p.  Ixvii),  especially  female,  and  to  avoid  conversation  with  individuals 
sometimes  met  with  in  the  towers,  and  who  seem  anxious  to  point  out  the 
sights  of  the  city.  Certain  of  the  alleged  guides,  who  accost  one  within 
and  without  the  building,  are  noteworthy  for  windy  phraseology  and 
misinformation.  Fees  are  unnecessary  unless  the  sacristdn  is  asked  to 
unveil  pictures  or  altars,  or  to  conduct  the  traveller  to  the  Pequeha  Ca- 
pilla  del  Cabildo  (p.  287)  behind  the  sacristy,  where  Murillo’s  Madonna 
is  kept.  Alms-boxes  will  be  found  in  conspicuous  places  near  the  chapels. 
The  fact  that  alms-solicitors  are  not  permitted  by  the  ch.  authorities  to 
molest  the  visiting  stranger  with  their  importunities  is  enough  to  suggest 
to  the  generous-minded  that  a small  offering  slipped  into  one  of  the  boxes 
por  el  amor  de  Dios,  and  for  the  upkeep  of  His  temple,  is  in  line  with  duty 
and  Christianity. 

The  air  in  the  Cathedral  is  usually  several  degrees  colder  (and  infinitely 
older)  than  the  outer  air,  and  visitors  are  cautioned  against  the  evil 
effects  of  too  abrupt  a change.  Men  must  remove  their  hats  on  entering, 
and  if  this  is  done  when  one  is  perspiring  the  result  might  be  a cold, 
which  at  this  altitude  easily  develops  into  pneumonia.  If  one  is  over- 
heated, the  best  plan  is  to  select  a sunny  seat  in  the  Zocalo  (p.  265),  and 
sit  there  for  a few  moments  and  study  the  fine  exterior  of  the  Cathedral, 
and  the  variegated  throng  which  passes  continually  in  review  before  it. 

Fortunately  one  can  now  get  an  unobstructed  view  of  the  fine  but  time- 
stained  facade,  the  tall  eucalyptus  trees  which  so  effectually  masked  it  for 
so  many  years  having  been  destroyed  in  1921  — by  revolutionists  who 
felled  them  in  order  to  be  able  better  to  bombard  the  palacio  and  its  de- 
fenders. The  building  is  best  entered  from  the  S.,  or  by  the  W.  entrance 
from  the  garden  flanking  its  side.  Hurried  visitors  should  see  the  Capilla 
de  los  Santos  Reyes  (p.  280),  the  Coro  (p.  281),  the  Sacristy  and  the 
Pequerla  Capilla  del  Cabildo  (p.  287),  the  Capilla  de  las  Reliquias  (p.  287), 
the  Claveria  (p.285)  and  the  Sagrario  Metropolitans  (p.  290).  If  time 
permits,  the  towers  should  be  ascended  for  the  sake  of  the  view.  The 
group  of  rooms  at  the  N.-W.  corner  of  the  edifice  and  yard  are  the  offices 
(administration)  of  the  governors  of  the  Cathedral.  No  stranger  in  the 
city  should  fail  to  visit  the  Cathedral  if  he  finds  himself  near  it  on  dias  de 
fiesta. 

The  Cathedral  ( La  Catedral ),  consecrated  as  the  Church 
of  the  Asuncion  de  Maria  Santisima  and  known  as  the  Holy 
Metropolitan  Church  of  Mexico , is  the  largest  and  most  impos- 
ing church  edifice  in  the  Republic,  and  is  said  to  be  the 
largest  on  the  continent.  The  general  effect  is  very  impressive. 
Massiveness  and  grandeza  are  its  distinctive  qualities;  many 
of  the  smaller  churches  being  more  graceful  and  elegant.  The 
ignorant  and  the  credulous  believe  that  its  giant,  rectangular 
bulk  is  swung  on  huge  chains  to  prevent  its  demolition  by 
earthquakes.  Historians  say  the  foundation  is  composed  al- 
most entirely  of  sculptured  Indian  images,  and  of  the  re- 
mains of  what  once  formed  the  body  of  the  great  Aztec 
teocalli  that  stood  near. 

The  Cathedral  is  a gigantic  structure  of  basalt  and  gray 
sandstone,  with  very  thick  walls.  It  is  a treasury  of  religious 
moment  and  historical  associations,  facing  the  Plaza  Mayort 
and  occupying  the  entire  north  side.  It  is  cruciform,  with  a 
nave  and  two  aisles  which  gradually  decrease  in  height  from 
the  middle  toward  the  outer  wall.  Many  massive  buttresses, 
quaint  gargoyles,  cornices,  friezes,  and  basso-relievos  are  sal- 
ient features.  The  edifice  stands  upon  a wide  platform  about 
two  feet  high  and  460  ft.  broad.  Exclusive  of  the  walls  it 


274  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Cathedral. 


measures  387  ft.  from  N.  to  S.;  177  ft.  from  E.  to  W.,  and  has 
an  interior  height  of  179  ft.  Its  tall  but  well-proportioned 
twin  towers  rise  203  ft.  above  the  atrium,  which  is  reached 
by  six  low  steps.  This  atrium  is  a huge,  dreary  expanse,  un- 
kempt, usually  overgrown  with  grass,  and  in  places  paved 
with  stone  slabs  and  cobbles.  The  Cathedral  presents  striking 
peculiarities  in  the  bell-shaped  domes  of  the  towers,  the  heavy 
reversed  consoles,  and  in  other  ways.  As  the  mother  church 
of  New  Spain,  and  the  head  of  the  Holy  Catholic  Church  in 
Mexico,  it  is  worth  careful  study.  The  time-stained  Sagrario 
(seep.  290),  with  its  interesting  Churrigueresque  facade,  joins 
it  on  the  right. 

Historical  Sketch.  The  first  Christian  church  in  Mexico 
was  erected  by  the  Spaniards  a little  to  the  S.-W.  of  the  great 
Aztec  teocalli  of  Tlaloc-Huitzilopochtli  (mentioned  at  p.  clxvii) . 
Much  of  the  debris  of  this  great  pagan  sanctuary  was  used 
as  building  stone  for  the  new  structure.  It  was  completed  in 
1525  and  was  called  the  Iglesia  Mayor , or  large  church.  Two 
years  later  Pope  Clement  VII  established  the  Bishopric  of 
New  Spain,  appointing  (at  the  instigation  of  Charles  V) 
Fray  Juan  de  Zumdrraqa  (comp.  p.  398),  who  reached  Mexico 
in  1528  and  immediately  began  ecclesiastical  work  under  the 
title  of  Bishop  Elect  and  Protector  of  the  Indians.  He  was 
confirmed  in  his  position  by  a Papal  Bull  of  Sept.  2,  1530, 
and  thereafter  this  first  ch.  became  the  See  and  was  known  as 
the  Cathedral.  Pope  Paul  III  established  the  Archbishopric 
of  Mexico,  Jan.  31,  1535,  and  called  the  Cathedral  the  Metro- 
politan Church.  In  1573  Philip  II  secured  permission  from 
the  Pope  to  demolish  the  primitive  ch.  and  to  erect  on  the 
site  a finer  Cathedral.  In  order  to  preserve  the  iglesia  mayor 
intact  until  the  new  one  could  be  completed,  land  was  bought 
(from  the  Franciscan  Friars,  for  40  pesos)  some  distance  to 
the  northward:  the  site  of  the  first  Roman  Catholic  church 
in  Mexico,  therefore,  is  the  atrium  of  the  present  Cathedral. 
The  first  design  was  made  by  Alonso  Perez  de  Castaneda.,  royal 
master  of  architecture,  and  the  corner-stone  was  laid  in  1573. 
While  the  foundation  was  under  construction  another  (modi- 
fied) plan  was  drawn  by  Juan  Gomez  de  Mora , architect  to 
Philip  III,  and  this  was  sent  over  under  the  royal  seal  with 
instructions  to  use  it.  Work  on  the  edifice  was  frequently  in- 
terrupted; the  great  inundation  of  1629  threatened  the  entire 
fabric.  It  was  not  until  1667  that  it  wsls  completed  and  in- 
augurated. Pedro  de  Arrieta,  master  of  architecture  for  the 
entire  kingdom  of  New  Spain,  was  in  charge  of  construction 
when  it  was  completed. 

The  estimated  cost  of  the  present  church  was  81,752,000,  ex- 
clusive of  the  towers,  which  were  completed  in  1791  and  are 
said  to  have  cost  8190,000.  When  the  Cathedral  was  inaugu- 
rated many  wealthy  Spaniards  contributed  to  its  interior 


Cathedral. 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  275 


adornment;  the  ornaments  of  gold  and  silver  presented  were 
said  to  be  worth  $1,850,000.  A chalice  covered  with  gems 
and  valued  at  $300,000  was  later  given  by  the  rich  miner, 
Joseph  Le  Borde  (comp.  p.  441),  who,  it  is  said,  found  himself 
once  in  financial  straits  and  asked  for  the  return  of  this  gift, 
but  received  instead  $100,000.  This  chalice,  along  with  other 
immense  treasure,  is  believed  to  have  been  sequestrated  by 
the  Juarez  Government  soon  after  the  passage  of  the  Reform 
Laws.  The  credulous  believe  that  these  transcendental  laws 
did  not  catch  the  clergy  entirely  unprepared,  and  that  vast 
treasure  remains  hidden  in  the  thick  walls  of  the  Cathedral. 

“The  piecemeal  construction  of  the  great  building,  covering  as  it  did  a 
period  of  nearly  seven  generations,  has  naturally  embodied  various  irreg- 
ularities that  produce  a certain  lack  of  unitary  effect  in  the  impression 
made  by  the  huge  mass.  As  a whole,  notwithstanding  these  shortcom- 
ings, the  total  effect  is  one  of  magnificence,  of  grandeur,  of  splendid  mass 
and  lordly  superiority,  mastering  its  environment  by  right  of  design. 
With  its  strong  contrasts  of  rich  decorative  features  and  its  achievement 
of  certain  ends  of  balance  and  proportion  by  arbitrary  and  unconven- 
tional means,  it  is  a characteristic  example  of  Spanish  Renaissance.” 
(Sylvester  Baxter.) 

Despite  the  lamentable  mutilations,  and  the  indecorous 
renovations  (so  called),  which  in  times  past  have  been  per- 
mitted in  the  Cathedral,  it  still  retains  an  imposing  dignity 
and  charm  — the  latter  manifest  even  to  those  who  have 
seen  the  gigantic  and  splendid  Christian  and  pagan  temples 
of  Europe  and  the  Orient.  Its  mediaeval  flavor  is  very  attract- 
ive and  its  historical  value  — recalling  as  it  does  the  most 
brilliant  epoch  of  Spanish  Colonial  and  Vice-regal  days  — ■ 
never  fades.  Though  now  but  a simulacrum  of  what  it  was  in 
pre-reforma  days,  a fairly  accurate  idea  of  its  old-time  splen- 
dor may  be  obtained  from  the  Churrigueresque  altars ; and  an 
inkling  of  its  wealth  of  paintings  from  the  few  chance  sur- 
vivors still  to  be  seen.  Mexicans  refer  to  it  lovingly  (and  rather 
extravagantly)  as  the  “ Mexican  St.  Peter’s,”  and  while  the  ex- 
perienced traveller  will  know  better  whether  or  not  the  com- 
parison is  justifiable,  and  whether  it  is  or  is  not  overrated, 
few  will  deny  that  in  almost  every  respect  it  is  worthy  to  be 
ranked  among  the  noblest  churches  of  America. 

The  Facade  ( la  fachada ) is  a weather-beaten  but  still  at- 
tractive example  of  mediaeval  architecture  — a blend  of 
several  orders,  Ionic,  Doric,  and  Corinthian.  The  combina- 
tion of  gray  sandstone  and  white  marble  produces  a pleasing 
contrast.  The  fine  central  group  of  sculpture,  the  Three  Vir- 
tues, Fe,-Esperanza  y Caridad,  is  by  Manuel  Tolsa.  Ponderous 
buttresses  divide  the  S.  fagade  (independent  of  the  Sagrario) 
into  three  portals,  above  which  are  basso-relievos  represent- 
ing (at  the  1.)  Peter  receiving  the  Keys;  (at  the  r.  ) Peter  at 
the  Helm,  and  (in  the  centre),  the  Assumption  of  the  Virgin. 
The  Latin  inscription  over  the  central  entrance  (originally 


276  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Cathedral. 


called  La  Puerta  del  Perdon  — door  of  pardon)  bears  the 
date  1672,  and  is  to  the  effect  that  the  structure  was  com- 
pleted in  the  reign  of  the  Spanish  King  Carlos  II.  There  are 
seven  entrances  — three  in  front,  facing  the  S.,  two  in  the 
transepts,  and  two  in  the  rear  opening  on  to  the  Calle  de 
Santa  Teresa.  The  quaint  inscription  (in  Spanish)  over  the 
E.  entrance  tells  that  “this  royal  and  spacious  entrance  ( real 
y espaciosa  portada)  was  finished  Aug.  o,  1688,  during  the 
reign  of  King  Carlos  11  and  the  Viceroy  Don  Melchor  Porto - 
carrero  Lazo  de  la  Bega , Conde  de  la  Moncloba , and  was  recon- 
structed in  1804.”  A like  inscription  above  the  entrance  to  the 
W.  transept  sets  forth  that  it  was  begun  Aug.  27,  1688,  and 
completed  Oct.  8,  1689.  The  visitor  should  walk  quite  around 
the  Cathedral  in  order  to  examine  the  quaint  architecture  and 
massive  bulk  of  the  structure.  Between  the  t’wo  rear  exits 
(which  give  on  to  the  la  Calle  de  Santa  Teresa)  is  a curious 
niche  with  a bas-relief  of  the  Lamb  of  the  Apocalypse  (El 
cordero  del  Apocalipsis) , beneath  which  runs  a quaint  Latin 
inscription,  Laudate  Dominum  omnes  gentes. 

The  cross  at  the  S.-E.  angle  of  the  atrium  is  a monolith,  and 
was  found  in  1648  by  the  Archbishop  Mahozca,  overthrown 
and  buried  in  the  cemetery  of  the  village  of  Tepeapulco,  so 
he  ordered  it  brought  to  the  capital.  The  companion  piece, 
in  the  S.-W.  corner,  came  from  the  old  ch.  of  San  Pedro  y San 
Pablo  and  was  altered  to  resemble  the  Cruz  de  M ahozca. 

The  N.  wrall  and  the  cimborio  above  the  high  altar  were 
badly  cracked  by  the  earthquake  of  April,  1907. 

The  Twin  Towers  (torres)  are  in  tw'O  divisions,  the  lower 
of  the  Doric  order,  the  upper  Ionic,  finished  in  a wealth  of 
architectural  details.  “A  strikingly  attractive  feature  of  the 
towers  is  the  design  of  the  third  story,  formed  by  the  octagonal 
base  of  the  bell-shaped  domes  enclosed  wfithin  a rectangular 
pavilion-like  structure,  the  latter  tied  to  the  inner  portion  by 
a narrow  band  around  the  middle  of  each  part,  thus  serving 
a purpose  both  constructional  and  decorative.”  At  the  base 
of  the  tower  domes  are  graceful  statues  of  the  Doctors  of  the 
Church,  and  of  Patriarchs  of  the  Monastic  Orders  (the  wor  ; 
of  the  Puebla  sculptor,  Zacarias  Cora),  so  placed  that  two  face 
each  of  the  cardinal  points.  Each  towTer  is  used  as  a belfry 
(campanario)  and  is  surmounted  by  a huge  stone  cross.  A 
family  of  bell-ringers  (campaneros)  live  high  up  in  the  belfry  of 
the  E.  tower,  and  thus  occupy  one  of  the  airiest  and  healthiest 
apartments  in  the  city. 

The  largest  bell  is  Santa  Maria  de  Guadalupe , in  the  W. 
towrer.  It  was  cast  in  Tacubaya  by  a Spanish  artisan,  Salvador 
de  la  Vega,  in  1792;  and  on  March  8 was  placed  at  the  foot  of 
the  tower,  blessed  by  the  Archbishop  Alonso  Nunez  de  Haro 
y Peralta,  and  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe.  This  bell 
(campana)  is  10  ft.  across  at  the  base,  16£  ft.  high,  weighs 


Cathedral. 


MEXICO  CITY 


48.  Route.  277 


27,000  lbs.  and  cost  $10,400.  The  clapper  ( golpeador ) is  8 ft. 
long  and  weighs  500  lbs.  The  workmen  were  from  March  13 
to  April  12  raising  the  ponderous  mass  of  metal  to  its  place, 
and  despite  the  impatience  of  the  populace  to  hear  the  bell, 
it  was  not  until  June  7 ( Dia  de  Corpus)  that  its  grave,  sweet 
and  penetrating  tones  floated  above  the  one-time  Aztec  capi- 
tal. On  clear  days  the  sound  may  be  heard  6 miles  away. 

A smaller  bell  in  the  same  tower,  called  Santo  Angel  de  la 
Guarda  — Holy  Guardian  Angel — -weighs  1,500  lbs.  It  was 
blessed  in  Tacubaya  Mch.  1,  1793,  by  Doctor  Gregorio  Omana , 
Bishop  of  Oaxaca,  and  on  the  9th  of  the  same  month  was 
raised  to  its  place.  Its  unusually  harmonious  notes  recall  a 
certain  bell  in  the  Campanile  at  Florence,  and  they  were  first 
heard  in  Mexico  March  27,  1793,  on  Holy  Wednesday.  The 
third  bell  in  the  same  tower,  San  Salvador , was  consecrated 
by  Don  Andres  Llanos  de  Valdez , Bishop  of  Monterey,  and 
was  first  rung  in  Mexico  at  noon  on  Dec.  11,  1792.  It  weighs 
3,040  lbs. 

Doha  Maria , the  largest  bell  in  the  E.  tower,  was  cast  in 
Mexico  City  in  1754,  weighs  7,500  lbs.,  and  was  one  of  the 
bells  used  in  the  temporary  structure  before  the  tower  was 
completed.  Note  the  peculiar  manner  of  hanging  the  bells. 
When  the  bells  ring  at  midday  many  of  the  natives  in  different 
parts  of  the  city  doff  their  hats.  Clerks,  too,  drop  their  work 
as  if  the  contact  burned  them,  and  the  streets  are  soon  filled 
with  hurrying  humanity  bound  homeward  for  luncheon. 

At  least  one  of  the  towers  should  be  ascended  if  only  for 
the  sake  of  the  view,  which  is  perhaps  the  finest  in  the  Valley 
of  Mexico.  One  does  not  have  to  possess  the  agility  of  a 
steeplejack  to  reach  the  belfry.  A caracol  stair,  whose  en- 
trance is  at  the  outside  base  of  the  E.  tower,  leads  to  the 
roof  and  thence  to  the  campanario.  We  ascend  the  narrow 
stair,  pull  the  string  hanging  near  a closed  door,  which  is 
opened  from  above.  A small  fee  (25  c.)  is  customary. 

The  view  is  beguiling.  Chapultepec  is  easily  discernible  at 
the  W.;  the  tiled  domes  of  many  churches  glisten  in  the  fore- 
ground ; the  magnificent  peaks  of  Popocatepetl  and  Iztaccihuatl 
gleam  in  the  S.-E.,  and  the  huge  wall  of  volcanic  hills  which  hem 
in  the  valley  on  the  S.  and  W.  is  seen  to  great  advantage. 
To  the  E.  are  the  shallow  lakes,  described  at  p.  247,  and  the 
alkaline  plains  which  form  their  shores.  With  a good  glass 
one  may  pick  out  the  microscopic  towns  which  flank  the  slopes 
of  Ajusco,  and  perchance  note  railway  trains  gliding  up  and 
down  the  mountain  sides. 

The  black  spot  at  the  W.  base  of  the  W.  tower  marks  the 
place  where  the  Aztec  Calendar  Stone  (comp.  p.  299)  remained 
embedded  for  many  years.  Certain  of  the  sculptured  relics 
in  the  Hall  of  the  Monoliths,  at  the  National  Museum,  were 
dug  up  from  about  the  base  of  the  tower. 


278  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Cathedral. 


The  Doric  Interior,  with  its  traces  of  Gothic  enlivened  by 
enrichments  from  many  orders,  was  renovated  in  1906;  the 
walls  and  the  20  massive  and  beautifully  proportioned  pillars, 
including  those  attached  to  the  walls,  — composed  of  four 
engaged  columns  of  the  Doric  order,  — were  carefully  scraped 
and  cleaned,  hence  the  air  of  newness.  The  work  of  renovation 
extended  over  two  years.  “It  is  notable  that  the  flutings  of 
these  columns  are  continued  through  the  arches  — also  a 
feature  of  the  sagrario  interior  and  likewise  of  the  Puebla 
Cathedral.  The  structure  shows  three  diverse  types  of  vaulting : 
the  cloister  form,  with  Gothic-like  ribs  in  the  chapel  of  the 
sacristy;  in  the  aisles,  the  domed  form,  with  pendentives; 
and  the  nave  and  transept  with  barrel-arched  form  — medio - 
cation,  or  half-canon,  in  Spanish  phrase  — and  lunettes. 
The  effect  of  the  interior  is  almost  severe,  and  the  tones  of 
gray  and  white  conveyed  by  the  natural  color  of  the  stone  and 
the  bare  surfaces  of  the  walls  and  ceilings  give  an  impression 
that  would  be  one  of  baldness  were  it  not  offset  by  a sense  of 
beautiful  proportions.  Remarking  the  elegant  simplicity  of 
ornament,  skilfully  balanced  by  the  richness  of  the  Churri - 
gueresque  retables,  Revilla  says:  1 These  retables  and  the  pre- 
dominance of  vertical  lines  in  construction  — which  without 
reaching  the  extreme  of  the  Gothic  style  are  sufficient  to  give 
the  impress  of  a Christian  character  — prevent  that  frigidity 
of  effect  that  marks  other  temples  built  in  the  Greco-Roman 
style  and  produces  in  the  soul  a sentiment  of  religious  rever- 
ence.’” 

The  wooden  floor  — an  immense  sounding-board  — imparts 
a mediaeval  aspect,  at  variance  with  the  richly  decorated  coro 
and  the  sumptuous  high  altar.  This  floor  is  said  to  cover  a 
beautiful  tiled  floor  which  has  sunk  into  the  soft  ground  far 
below  the  present  one. 

The  general  view  of  the  interior  is  broken  by  the  obtrusive 
choir,  which,  in  accordance  with  Spanish  custom,  occupies 
the  middle  of  the  nave.  Two  bays  are  devoted  to  it,  and  the 
three  following  are  given  over  to  the  crujia,  or  passageway, 
and  the  high  altar.  Seven  small  chapels  — some  of  which 
have  been  “ terribly  restored  ” and  almost  all  of  which  have 
been  renamed  — open  on  to  each  of  the  side  aisles.  Not  all 
of  them  are  worth  a close  inspection.  Above  the  cornices  174 
windows  diffuse  a moderate  light.  The  central  arches  form 
a Latin  cross.  At  the  square  ends  of  the  transepts  are  en- 
trances flanked  within  by  huge  cedar-wood  caticeles  which, 
at  the  time  of  the  rage  for  selling  church  antiquities,  replaced 
the  splendidly  carved,  mahogany  structures  of  the  olden 
times.  Between  these  two  entrances  rises  the  tall  dome, 
or  cimhorio,  sometimes  adorned  with  streamers  in  the  national 
colors  — emblematic  of  the  power  of  the  State  over  the 
Church.  The  interior  is  covered  with  a host  of  figures  forming 


Cathedral. 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  279 


an  Assumption , painted  in  1810.  The  colors  are  faded  and 
moisture  has  ruined  the  figures  of  some  of  the  saints  and 
angels. 

Tradition  has  it  that  for  many  years  alms  were  solicited  for  the  decora- 
tion of  this  dome,  but  they  came  in  slowly.  Finally  prayers  were  put  up, 
and  soon  thereafter  an  alleged  miraculous  sack  of  silver  pesos  was  dis- 
covered in  one  of  the  chapels.  Coincidently  a friar  had  a revelation  that 
the  money  had  been  deposited  by  the  Virgin  for  the  intended  purpose, 

1 and  work  was  immediately  begun.  The  name  of  the  painter  is  unrecorded 
I in  the  church  records. 

Many  confessionals  (said  to  be  of  teak)  are  scattered 
through  the  vast  edifice,  while  near  certain  of  the  chapels  a 
petty  commerce  is  carried  on  in  photographs  of  santos,  pseudo- 
relics, medallions  and  whatnot.  Beggars  sidle  up  to  strangers 
and  solicit  alms  (which  is  not  permitted  in  the  Cathedral),  but 
as  a rule  the  stranger  is  spared  the  annoying  attentions  of  the 
beadle  and  his  contribution-box,  so  frequently  in  evidence  in 
European  churches. 

The  Presbiterio,  Cipres,  or  Altar  Mayor  (High  Altar), 
in  the  second  square  of  the  nave,  a massive  and  tasteless 
structure  linked  to  the  Coro  by  two  lines  of  tombac  railing 
(referred  to  at  p.  281),  is  of  granite  adorned  with  stucco,  and 
was  completed  in  1850  after  designs  drawn  by  the  Spanish 
architect  Lorenzo  Hidalgo.  The  base  is  of  a gray  granite 
known  in  Mexico  as  chiluca.  Rising  from  it  are  green  mala- 
chite-like pillars  with  gilt  capitals  and  bases  which  support  a 
superstructure  crowned  in  turn  by  a group  representing  the 
Assumption  of  the  Virgin  (the  work  of  Jose  Maria  Miranda ), 
which  required  six  months  to  construct  and  which  cost,  ac- 
cording to  the  ch.  records,  some  three  thousand  pesos.  The 
statues  are  of  saints  and  founders  of  religious  orders,  and  are 
the  work  of  Terrazas  and  Miranda.  The  Virgin  of  Guadalupe , 
of  Los  Remedios,  of  La  Asuncion  and  others,  are  among  the 
figures.  The  tombac  railing  which  encloses  the  tabernaculo 
is  unpolished,  and  the  dingy  and  faded  carpet  is  quite  in 
keeping  with  the  general  air  of  tawdriness.  Perhaps  the  most 
attractive  fitments  are  the  fire-gilt  candelabra  which  stand 
in  rows  before  the  altar.  The  structure  itself,  with  the  several 
interior  parts,  reminds  the  observer  of  one  of  those  Chinese 
carved  and  perforated  ivory  balls  with  a number  of  minor 
balls  inside.  All  the  colors  of  the  spectrum  have  been  drawn 
upon  for  decorations. 

“Its  wholly  incongruous  design  [says  Mr.  Baxter ] makes  an  unspeak- 
able discord  in  the  decoration  of  the  Cathedral.  The  former  high  altar 
of  Baibas  must  have  been  a worthy  pendant  of  the  chapel  of  Los  Reyes. 
The  destruction  of  the  original  high  altar  is  the  more  to  be  regretted, 
since  there  is  to  be  seen  in  Mexico  to-day  no  remaining  example  of  the 
Churrigueresque  as  employed  in  the  design  of  a high  altar  that  stands 
free,  those  that  exist  being  in  chancels,  with  reredos  built  against  the 
wall.” 


280  Route  J$. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Cathedral. 


The  twenty  jasper  and  agate  columns  which  enclosed  the 
old  altar  were  formerly  one  of  the  sights  of  the  Cathedral. 
Relics  of  this  quaint  and  massive  structure  are  the  two  some- 
what clumsy  onyx  pulpits  ( tribunas ) which  stand  at  the 
S.-E.  and  W.  corners  of  the  presbiterio. 

The  Altar  de  los  Reyes  (sometimes  called  Capilla  de  los 
Santos  Reyes , because  it  is  a replica  of  a chapel  in  the  Seville 
Cathedral  where  certain  of  the  Spanish  kings  are  buried)  is 
directly  in  the  rear  of  the  altar  mayor  and  faces  the  pasillo 
which  leads  from  the  E.  to  the  W.  side  of  the  Cathedral.  It 
is  a resplendent  and  highly  interesting  capilla  — the  finest  in 
the  church  — and  was  constructed  after  the  style  of  Chur- 
riguera, by  the  Sevillan  architect,  Geronimo  Baibas , who  came 
over  expressly  to  do  this  work,  and  also  the  corresponding 
altars  for  the  Puebla  (p.  512)  Cathedral.  Although  it  was 
begun  in  1718  it  was  not  entirely  completed  until  1837. 

“Thus  decorated  [says  Mr.  Baxter ] the  apse  has  the  effect  of  a lofty 
grotto  heavily  encrusted  with  gold  in  every  part,  and  glittering  with 
jewels  — all  this  as  a regal  environment  for  a throng  of  sacred  figures, 
in  the  round  or  in  high  relief  and  almost  animate  in  their  brilliant  color- 
ings; a host  of  saints,  angels  and  cherubs  assembled  in  joyous  adoration 
for  the  miraculous  scenes  enacted  in  the  paintings  which  they  surround. 
Of  these  paintings  there  are  20  — all  of  them  the  work  of  the  famous 
Mexican  artist  Jose  Rodriguez  Juarez  (comp.  p.  cl).  The  central  can- 
vas, just  above  the  altar,  The  Adoration  of  the  Kings  ( Adoracion  de  los 
Reyes  Magos),  is  regarded  as  his  masterpiece.  The  still  larger  painting 
above,  an  Assumption,  is  not  so  successful,  the  figures  not  having  been 
drawn  with  sufficient  reference  to  their  elevated  positions.” 

The  Virgen  de  la  Expectation,  the  central  figure  of  the  altar, 
was  a gift  to  the  ch.  by  the  Marquesa  de  Castahiza , who,  to 
ensure  the  cult  of  the  image,  willed  a large  sum  of  money  to 
the  Cathedral.  Before  the  Reform  Laws  the  fiestas  celebrated 
in  this  Virgin’s  honor  were  unusually  gorgeous  and  spectacular. 

In  the  sides  of  the  chapel,  which  is  consecrated  to  the 
Virgin,  are  altars  dedicated  to  San  Luis  Rey  de  Francia,  San 
Luis  Gonzaga , Santa  Rosalia  and  Santa  Rosa  de  Lima.  Relics 
of  these  saints  are  enshrined  within.  Formerly  each  altar 
possessed  a massive  silver  image  of  its  respective  patron,  but 
since  their  disappearance  (consequent  to  the  Reform  Laws) 
the  niches  occupied  by  them  have  been  closed.  A beautiful 
ivory  Cristo  on  a cross  with  heavy  silver  adornments  was  one 
of  the  finest  relics  of  this  chapel  before  the  sequestration  of 
the  ch.  property.  Certain  of  the  early  Spanish  viceroys  are 
buried  here,  and  for  years  the  heads  of  the  patriots  Hidalgo , 
Allende,  Aldama  and  Jimenez  were  kept  in  the  crypt,  whence 
they  were  transferred  (in  1896)  to  the  Capilla  de  San  Jose. 
The  chapel  is  reached  by  a flight  of  5 stone  steps  which  lead 
up  from  the  ambulatory.  No  altar  in  the  Cathedral  makes  a 
stronger  impression  of  dignity  and  solemnity.  The  dome  above 
this  spot  was  practically  reconstructed  in  1908. 


Cathedral. 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  281 


The  Choir  (el  Coro),  a huge  quadrilateral  structure  twice  as 
long  as  it  is  wide,  whose  position  at  the  south  end  of  the  nave 
mars  greatly  the  interior  view  of  the  Cathedral,  is  backed 
by  a heavy  wall  of  masonry  and  one  of  the  finest  chapels 
(La  Camilla  del  Per  don)  in  the  church.  Side  walls  of  stone 
surmounted  by  an  overhang  of  the  same  material,  chiselled 
in  angelic  forms,  shut  it  off  from  the  aisles.  It  is  closed  in  front 
by  a magnificent  tombac  grill,  topped  by  three  crosses,  the 
whole  forming  an  allegory  representing  the  crucified  Saviour 
and  the  two  thieves.  This  grill  is  of  the  same  material  as  the 
railing  which  connects  the  coro  with  the  presbiterio,  and  ex- 
tends clear  around  the  latter.  It  is  45  ft.  long,  25  ft.  high, 
is  said  to  weigh  26  tons,  and  came  (in  May,  1730)  from  the 
Portuguese  settlement  of  Macao,  in  southern  China.  It  was 
a gift  to  the  Cathedral  by  the  Duke  of  Albuquerque,  then 
Viceroy.  Surmounting  the  railing  (barandal)  are  52  figurines 
which  act  as  candelabra.  According  to  the  church  records  this 
is  a special  tombac1  and  is  a combination  of  gold,  silver  and 
copper;  the  whole  is  said  to  have  cost  $1,500,000  — which 
should  be  taken  with  a grain  of  salt. 

Formerly  a museum  of  sculptured  wood  and  beautiful 
paintings,  the  coro  is  still  attractive,  and  is  celebrated  for  its 
magnificent  silleria,  a delicate  and  beautiful  piece  of  work- 
manship, a mingling  of  the  Moorish  and  the  Plateresque  styles, 
and  indubitably  the  finest  thing  in  the  enclosure.  There  are 
59  seats  in  the  upper  row  (the  sellia)  and  20  in  the  lower  (the 
subsellia),  each  beneath  a carved  and  gilded  santo  in  low 
relief.  The  intricacy  and  richness  of  the  labyrinthine  carving 
are  noteworthy,  and  the  whole  forms  a splendid  work  of  art 
but  slightly  inferior  to  some  of  the  fine  sillerias  of  the  cathe- 
drals of  Spain. 

The  large  painting  at  the  head  of  the  choir,  against  the  back 
of  the  altar  del  perdon,  is  a scene  from  the  Apocalypse,  the 
work  of  Juan  Correa.  In  the  centre,  immediately  above  it 
(right  over  the  archbishop’s  seat),  is  a Madonna’s  head  said 
to  have  been  painted  by  Murillo;  the  gilded  frame  is  very 
elaborate  and  albeit  the  picture  may  be  considered  of  doubt- 
ful parentage,  the  church  authorities  believe  it  is  a master- 
piece. The  tall  wood  lectern  with  its  many  small  carved  ivory 
figurines  of  saints,  and  its  inlaid  cross  with  an  ivory  figure 
of  Christ  crucified,  is  worth  looking  at. 

A wood  missal-stand  now  serves  in  place  of  the  massive 
silver  structure  which  disappeared  coincident  with  the  passage 
of  the  Reform  Laws.  Striking  features  of  this  superb  choir 
are  the  two  great  organs  (organos)  in  unvarnished  cases  of 
beautifully  carved  cedar-wood,  surmounted  by  orchestras  of 


1 Tombac,  or  lumbago , is  an  alloy  of  copper  or  zinc, or  a species  of  brass 
with  an  excess  of  zinc.  When  arsenic  is  added,  it  is  white  tombac. 


282  Route  S&. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Cathedral. 


angels.  They  date  from  1776  and  are  of  European  origin: 
the  palisadoes  of  3,500  pipes  produce  splendid  harmonies. 
The  gilded  superstructures  are  not  without  interest ; likewise 
the  elaborate  bronze  balconies  on  the  pillars  at  the  corners, 
with  their  supporting  figures  and  intricate  sculptures  ( escul - 
turas).  At  the  r.  and  1.  of  the  side  entrance  to  the  coro  on  the 
E.  (immediately  opposite  the  Capilla  de  Nuestra  Sehora  de 
Guadalupe ) are  two  paintings  (the  work  of  Francisco  Martinez , 
in  1736)  depicting  episodes  in  the  life  and  martyrdom  of  San 
Lorenzo  (comp.  p.  332).  The  middle  picture,  above  the  door, 
is  of  St.  Peter.  Against  the  outer  wall  of  the  coro  are  two 
paintings  (by  Juan  Correa , in  1704)  representing  Souls  in 
Purgatory  and  San  Judas  Tadeo. 

Two  fine  Churrigueresque  altars  which  for  many  years  stood 
against  the  side  walls  of  the  choir  were  removed  in  1907,  thus 
allowing  for  the  widening  (by  several  feet)  of  the  E.  and  W.  aisles. 

The  cumbersome  onyx  pulpit  near  the  barandal,  between 
the  coro  and  the  high  altar,  is  a companion  piece  to  others 
at  the  presbiterio. 

The  Altar  del  Perdon,  one  of  the  most  frequented  and 
popular  in  the  Cathedral,  an  imposing  structure  of  carved 
and  gilded  wood  in  the  Churrigueresque  style,  occupies  the 
tras-coro  and  faces  the  S.  entrance.  The  interest  of  the  tourist 
will  centre  in  the  two  pictures  which  form  the  principal  fea- 
tures; the  lower  one  (in  a silver  frame)  a Holy  Family  show- 
ing the  Virgin  mother  with  the  Christ  child  in  her  arms,  the 
upper  one  a San  Sebastian.  The  ch.  officials  claim  that  the 
painting  of  the  Virgin  is  done  on  wood,  a door  to  a prison  cell, 
and  to  support  the  theory  they  will  point  out  the  marks  of 
ancient  hinges,  beneath  the  paint.  At  certain  hours  in  the 
morning  a beam  of  light  from  one  of  the  high  windows  falls 
athwart  this  picture  and  produces  a very  striking  effect. 

Mr.  Baxter  writes:  “There  are  two  very  pleasing  legends  about  the 
two  principal  paintings  of  this  altar.  One  is  based  upon  a belief  that  the 
large  painting  of  the  Virgin  is  the  picture  that  the  Flemish  painter 
Pereyns  was  condemned  to  paint  when  tried  for  heresy,  and  the  other 
relates  that  the  San  Sebastian  above  is  the  work  of  a famous  woman 
painter,  ‘ La  Zumaya.’  of  whom  a most  romantic  story  is  told  by  Cayetano 
Cabrera  in  his  Escuao  de  Armas  de  Mexico . to  the  effect  that  she  mar- 
ried Baltazar  de  Echave,  the  Elder,  and  taught  him  his  art.  In  fact, 
however,  both  pictures  bear  every  evidence  of  being  the  work  of  the 
elder  Echave  himself.  It  was  a ‘Merced’  (Our  Lady  of  Mercy)  that 
Pereyns  was  condemned  to  paint,  and  at  that  time  neither  this  altar  nor 
even  the  Cathedral  itself  was  in  existence,  for  it  was  in  the  period  of  the 
old  Cathedral;  moreover,  this  Virgin  is  not  a ‘Merced’  but  a ‘Candelaria.’ 
As  to  the  legend  of  La  Zumava,  the  eminent  scholar.  Don  Jose  M.  de 
Agreda,  has  shown  very  conclusively  that  there  never  was  such  a painter. 
The  elder  Echave  was  twice  married  and  the  names  of  his  wives  were 
found  in  the  records  of  the  Sagrario  by  Senor  Agreda.  but  neither  was 
named  Zumaya.  The  story  doubtless  arose  from  a confusion  between  the 
name  of  the  birthplace  of  Echave,  the  Biscayan  town  of  Zumaya,  and 
that  of  the  painter,  Francisco  Zumaya,  who  figured  at  the  trial  of  his 
friend  Pereyns.”  (Comp.  p.  cxlv.) 

The  polychrome  figures  at  this  altar  are  uninteresting. 


Cathedral . 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route . 283 


We  begin  our  detailed  description  of  the  Cathedral  at 

La  Camilla  de  San  Miguel  (St.  Michael),  known  also  as  La  C. 
de  los  Santos  Angeles  (holy  angels),  the  1st  on  the  1.  as  we  enter 
through  the  S.  or  main  door.  The  light  which  filters  through 
the  iron  grill  at  the  back  is  too  dim  to  permit  of  a detailed  in- 
spection of  the  pictures  and  altars.  Of  the  latter  there  are 
I three,  all  huge  masses  of  carved,  gilded  and  strikingly  hand- 
some specimens'  of  the  style  of  Churriguera  adapted  from  a 
I Baroque  ground.  The  16  paintings,  most  of  which  represent 
scenes  in  the  life  of  the  saint,  are  attributed  to  Juan  Correa , who 
painted  many  other  pictures  for  the  Cathedral.  Formerly  this 
chapel  was  noted  for  its  massive  silver  lamps  and  rich  silver 
ornaments,  which  latter  to  the  value  of  fifty  thousand  or  more 
pesos  were  removed  and  melted  by  Antonio  Lopez  de  Santa 
Anna  during  his  bootless  war  with  the  United  States.  The 
seven  polychrome  statues  of  saints  are  mediocre.  Like  many 
of  the  other  chapels  in  this  ch.,  this  one  is  railed  off  from  the 
main  body  by  a tall  wood  grill  polished  by  the  hands  of  many 
devotees. 

The  Altar  de  Anima,  the  2d  chapel  on  the  1.,  with  a score 
or  more  mediocre  pictures,  is  dark  and  uninteresting.  The 
central  figure  is  a crucified  Christ.  The  colored  glass  picture 
of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  is  modern. 

La  Capilla  del  Sehor  San  Jose , 3d  on  the  1.,  is  chiefly  note- 
worthy for  the  altar  let  into  the  N.  wall,  with  a crystal  urn 
containing  the  heads  of  the  patriots  Hidalgo,  Allende,  Aldama 
and  Jimenez.  Many  faded  wreaths,  ribbons  and  artificial  flowers 
embellish  the  altar. 

La  Capilla  de  Nuestra  Sehor  a de  la  Soledad,  4 th  on  the  1.,  was 
dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary,  Aug.  15,  1657,  during  the  reign 
of  the  Viceroy  Francisco  Fernandez  de  la  Cueva,  Duke  of 
Albuquerque.  A curious  bit  of  history  attaches  thereto. 

“ Albuquerque  assisted  at  the  festivals  of  the  churches  and  made 
liberal  contributions  toward  the  completion  of  the  Cathedral.  His  re- 
ligious zeal  well-nigh  cost  him  his  life.  It  was  his  custom  each  afternoon 
to  pay  a visit  to  the  Cathedral,  then  in  course  of  completion,  in  order  to 
inspect  the  progress  made  during  the  day,  and  afterwards  to  attend 
vespers  in  one  of  the  chapels.  While  kneeling  at  prayer  (in  this  chapel) 
on  the  evening  of  the  12th  of  March,  1660,  a soldier  named  Manuel 
Ledesma  y Robles  entered  the  chapel  and  gave  him  several  blows  with  the 
flat  of  his  sword.  The  Viceroy  sprang  to  his  feet,  and  placing  the  prie-dieu 
between  himself  and  his  assailant,  meanwhile  clutching  with  his  right 
hand  at  his  sword,  exclaimed,  ‘What  mean  you?’  ‘To  kill  you,’  was  the 
answer.  At  that  moment  the  treasurer  of  the  Cathedral  came  to  the 
Duke’s  assistance  and  was  soon  followed  by  others.  The  would-be  assas- 
sin was  overpowered,  and  the  Duke,  after  finishing  his  devotions,  returned 
to  his  palace.  A trial  was  held  the  same  evening  by  the  military  auditor, 
but  considering  the  grave  character  of  the  crime,  the  audiencia  ordered 
that  the  prisoner  be  brought  before  their  court.  . . . There  is  little  doubt 
the  man’s  mind  was  deranged;  he  could  easily  have  killed  the  Viceroy 
had  he  been  so  disposed ; but  as  it  was  a great  man  who  had  been  fright- 
ened, his  judges  were  determined  not  to  recognize  the  fact  — and  no  time 


2S4  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Cathedral. 


was  granted  him  to  prepare  his  defence.  At  seven  the  next  morning 
the  verdict  was  rendered;  the  criminal  was  condemned  to  be  dragged 
through  the  streets,  and  thence  taken  to  the  gibbet.  His  head  and  right 
hand  were  to  be  cut  off  and  exposed,  the  former  on  the  main  square,  the 
latter,  together  with  his  sword,  in  front  of  the  door  of  the  Cathedral  where 
the  crime  had  been  committed.  Three  hours  later  the  tribunals  and 
loyal  inhabitants  of  Mexico  had  the  satisfaction  of  witnessing  the  execu- 
tion of  the  sentence,  the  corpse,  feet  upwards,  remaining  exhibited  on  the 
gallows  till  late  in  the  afternoon.”  (Bancroft,  History  of  Mexico,  vol.  iii, 
p.  149.) 

The  gilded  and  carved  wood  altars  are  among  the  finest  in 
the  Cathedral.  The  paintings,  which  represent  scenes  in  the 
life  of  Christ  and  the  Virgin,  are  attributed  to  Herrera.  The 
chapel  has  always  been  the  chosen  one  of  the  workmen  in  and 
about  the  Cathedral,  who  know  it  as  La  Capilla  de  los  Obreros , 
or  Chapel  of  the  Workmen. 

La  CapiUa  del  Sen  or  del  Buen  Despacho,  5th  on  the  1.,  is  so 
called  for  the  life-size  figure  of  Christ  which  stands  in  the  centre 
of  the  main  altar.  It  is  over-decorated,  and  the  polychrome 
figures  in  high  relief  are  tawdry.  The  quaint  old  Spanish  iron 
chest,  just  without  the  railing,  makes  a sizable  contribution- 
box,  but  the  sound  given  forth  from  a piece  of  silver  dropped 
into  it  indicates  that  it  is  far  from  empty. 

Adjacent  to  this  chapel  is  the  huge  cancel  and  exit  to  the 
garden  which  flanks  the  Cathedral  on  the  W.  Following  this  is 

La  Capilla  de  Nuestra  Senora  de  los  Dolores,  6th  on  the  1., 
formerly  the  C.  de  la  Santa  Cena  (holy  supper)  because  for  cen- 
turies it  was  under  the  special  protection  of  the  Arch-cofrater- 
nityof  the  Holy  Sacrament  and  because  it  had  for  its  patron 
the  mystery  of  the  Eucharist.  The  crucifix  of  the  archico - 
fradia,  which  wTas  placed  here  with  great  solemnity  June  14, 
1656,  occupies  the  small  glass  case  below^  the  image  of  the 
Virgin  of  Dolores,  wiiich  in  turn  was  once  the  property  of 
Maximilian.  The  beautiful  painting  of  the  Last  Supper,  now 
in  the  Claveria , used  to  hang  in  this  chapel.  Next  in  fine  with 
this  (and  7th)  is 

La  Capilla  de  San  Felipe  de  Jesus , Mexico’s  Protomartyr 
and  the  Patron  Saint  of  New^  Spain  (see  p.  325).  It  is  perhaps 
the  most  venerated  in  the  Cathedral.  A number  of  relics  of 
the  saint  are  preserved  here,  along  with  an  urn  containing 
the  heart  of  General  Bustamante.  Several  archbishops  and 
other  notables  are  buried  beneath  the  floor.  In  1838  an  altar 
in  the  r.  wall  was  removed  to  provide  a sepulchre  for  the  ashes  j 
of  Agustin  de  Iturbide,  which  are  preserved  in  a wooden  urn 
on  which  is  this  inscription:  “Agustin  de  Iturbide,  Author  of 
Mexican  Independence.  Compatriot,  w'eep  for  him.  Stranger, 
admire  him.  This  monument  holds  the  ashes  of  a hero.  His 
soul  rests  in  the  bosom  of  God  ” ; — a somewdiat  high-sounding 
and  not  very  apposite  inscription,  in  viewT  of  the  facts.  The 
several  paintings  (unsigned)  represent  scenes  in  the  life  and 
martyrdom  of  San  Felipe.  The  altar  at  the  1.  is  dedicated  to 


Cathedral.  MEXICO  CITY  4%  Route.  285 

Santa  Rosa  de  Lima , the  first  American-born  female  saint  of 
the  Catholic  Church. 

Santa  Rosa  de  Lima  (born  in  Lima,  Peru,  in  1585,  died  1617,  canonized 
1671)  is  often  seen  pictured  in  the  Mexican  churches.  The  favorite  atti- 
tude is  that  of  a nun  crowned  with  roses,  in  a halo  of  light,  with  birds  in 
her  hand  and  in  the  air  about  her,  and  a Christ  cn  the  Cross  held  up  to  her 
lips.  “ At  an  early  age  she  became  an  admirer  and  follower  of  the  austere 
Saint  Catherine  of  Siena  and  gave  herself  up  unreservedly  to  acts  of 
penance  and  charity.  While  she  walked  among  the  bitter  herbs  and 
wooden  crosses  with  which  she  planted  her  garden,  she  one  day  ex- 
claimed ‘ O!  all  ye  green  things  of  the  earth,  bless  ye  the  Lord.’  Suddenly 
the  neighboring  trees  began  to  shiver  and  clash  their  leaves  together,  and 
the  stately  poplars  bowed  their  heads  and  reverently  bent  them  until 
they  touched  the  ground. 

“ One  spring  a little  bird  built  its  nest  in  a mimosa  tree  near  the  cottage 
where  the  saint  dwelt.  Passing  the  tree  during  a morning  walk  she  was 
greeted  by  a joyous  song  so  clear  and  sweet  that  she  ceased  her  medita- 
tions and  listened.  Presently  it  paused.  Then,  upon  the  spur  of  the  mo- 
ment, inspired  by  the  exultant  tones  of  the  happy  creature,  she  impro- 
vised some  appropriate  Spanish  verses  and  sang  them  in  reply.  When 
she  had  finished  the  bird  burst  forth  in  song  again,  and  for  an  hour  there 
in  the  cool  garden  shade  they  sang  and  listened  alternately.”  In  the 
mellow,  half-forgotten  annals  of  convent  and  church  Santa  Rosa  is  re- 
garded as  the  sweetest  of  all  the  saintly  characters  of  ancient  times. 

Near  the  centre  of  this  altar  there  hung  formerly  a heavy 
silver  lamp  whose  flame  burned  continuously ; with  many  other 
silver  ornaments  it  was  confiscated  in  1817  by  Santa  Anna, 
who  levied  a heavy  contribution  on  the  ch.  to  aid  him  in  his 
misguided  war  with  the  United  States. 

Immediately  outside  the  railing  of  the  chapel  is  the  bap- 
tismal font  wherein,  according  to  the  inscription,  “The  stain 
of  the  original  sin  was  removed  from  the  infant  San  Felipe  de 
Jesus.”  The  font  is  of  black  granite,  some  three  feet  in  dia- 
meter, wTith  a carved  wood  top,  dome-shaped.  On  the  wood 
railing,  near  the  top,  is  the  inscription:  “The  glorious  martyr, 
San  Felipe  de  Jesus,  a native  of  this  very  noble  and  loyal  City 
of  Mexico,  was  baptized  in  this  font.  It  was  renovated  in  the 
year  1798.”  There  is  also  a polychrome  figure  of  San  Felipe 
here.  Several  special  indulgences  were  granted  by  Pope 
Alexander  VII  to  all  who  would  perform  certain  acts  of  wor- 
ship before  this  shrine. 

The  body  of  the  martyr  was  laid  in  the  chapel  built  for 
it  in  1638.  Later  a temple  was  erected  in  his  honor,  but  this, 
along  with  a Capuchin  convent  near  by,  was  destroyed  after  the 
passage  of  the  Reform  Laws.  The  new  church  of  San  Felipe 
de  Jesus , on  the  Avenida  de  San  Francisco,  dedicated  to  this 
santo , is  described  at  p.  325.  We  now  come  to  a door  in  the 
west  wall  that  leads  to 

The  Meeting-Room  {sala  de  juntas)  of  the  Archicofradi a , 
generally  called  La  Claveria,  directly  across  the  ambulatory 
from  the  sacristy,  at  the  1.  of  the  Capilla  de  los  Reyes.  Albeit 
Murillo’s  Virgin  of  Bethlehem  has  been  taken  hence,  the 
elongated  room  still  contains  some  of  the  choicest  pictures  in 


286  Route  J>2. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Cathedral. 


the  ch.  On  the  W.  wall  there  hangs  a Holy  Family  attributed 
to  Murillo,  but  manifestly  by  some  adept  pupil  of  the  Mexican 
branch  of  the  School,  perhaps  Jose  Rodriguez  Juarez.  To  the 
r.  and  1.  are  29  portraits  of  former  archbishops  of  Mexico.  On 
the  E.  wall  is  a notable  Last  Supper  and  a Triumph  of  the  Faith , 
by  Jose  Alzibar  (p.  clii).  The  huge  crescent-shaped  canvas 
attributed  to  Jose  Ibarra , on  the  S.  wall,  with  its  magnificent 
gilt  frame,  is  very  striking,  and  represents  the  Coming  of  the 
Holy  Ghost  — La  Venida  del  Espiritu  Santo.  Note  the  tongues 
of  flame  which  play  about  the  heads  of  the  awed  spectators. 
The  painting  of  Don  Juan  de  Austria  imploring  the  help  of  the 
Virgin  at  the  Battle  of  Le  panto,  which  formerly  hung  in  this 
room,  is  now  in  the  San  Carlos  Academy  (p.  313). 

Flanking  the  N.-W.  exit  to  the  Calle  de  Santa  Teresa,  and 
between  the  Capilla  de  los  Santos  Reyes  and  the  entrance  to 
La  Claveria,  is  a small  (uninteresting)  altar  dedicated  to  El 
Santo  Nino  de  Atoche,  which  calls  for  no  special  mention.  The 
dilapidated  picture  on  the  opposite  wall  represents  scenes  in 
the  apparition  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  to  Juan  Diego. 

Just  outside  this  exit  (to  the  1.)  is  a small  chapel  called  Santa 
Rita  y Animas,  which  is  not  worth  visiting. 

Between  the  entrance  to  the  sacristy  and  the  exit  to  the 
Calle  de  Santa  Teresa  (note  the  quaintly  carved  confessional 
outside  the  sacristy  door)  is  an  altar  dedicated  to  San  Jose , 
with  a painting  of  that  saint  as  the  central  attraction.  The 
retablo  is  a good  example  of  the  Churrigueresque,  with  ten 
minor  paintings  let  into  it.  On  the  opposite  wall  is  a San 
Sebastidn  de  Aparicio,  a locally  renowned  saint  who  died  in 
Puebla  Feb.  26,  1600. 

The  Sacristia  (sacristy)  , immediately  to  the  E.  of  the  Altar 
de  los  Reyes , “is  a noble  chamber  in  whose  vaulting  is  to  be 
seen  the  most  extensive  example  of  the  ribbed  construction 
employed  in  the  original  design  by  Castaneda.”  The  Spanish 
inscription  carved  in  the  arch  above  the  entrance  bears  the 
date  1623  and  refers  to  the  erection  of  the  room.  The  six  great 
paintings  which  almost  cover  the  walls  are  among  the  largest 
canvases  in  Mexico  and  they  “produce  a magnificent  effect  of 
mural  decoration,  though  somewhat  sombre  in  their  solemnity. 

It  must  have  been  an  exceptionally  difficult  task  to  paint  the 
multitude  of  figures  that  populates  each  of  these  gigantic 
canvases.  In  conveying  a grand  and  imposing  impression  with  ^ 
splendid  ensembles,  artistic  groupings,  rhythmic  arrangement 
of  groups,  sincere  feeling  and  a high  devotional  quality,  the 
results  are  successful.  But  on  the  other  hand  the  tone  main- 
tained is  too  gloomy,  the  coloring  too  opaque,  too  severe,  for 
the  subjects,  which  demand  luminosity,  atmospheric  sparkle 
and  a pervasive  joyousness.  The  richly  designed  frames  of  the 
pictures,  with  polychrome  statues  at  the  corners,  are  beautiful 
features  of  the  decorative  scheme,  which  has  been  marred  by 


Cathedral.  MEXICO  CITY  42.  Route.  287 

covering  the  remaining  portion  of  the  wall  surface  with  wall 
paper.” 

The  Assumption  of  the  Virgin , on  the  S.  Wall,  and  the 
Entry  into  Jerusalem , on  the  E.  wall,  are  by  Juan  Correa 
(p.  cxlix),  who  also  painted  The  Allegory  of  the  Church,  on  the 
N.  wall.  The  Triumph  of  the  Sacrament,  on  the  E.  wall,  The 
Apocalypse  and  The  Glory  of  Saint  Michael,  on  the  W.  wall, 
are  by  Cristobal  de  Villalpando  (comp.  p.  cxlix). 

The  Ecce  Homo  in  the  glass  case  at  the  S.  end  of  the  room 
is  one  of  the  most  interesting  and  ancient  possessions  of  the 
Cathedral.  It  is  known  as  El  Sehor  del  Cacao  (Christ  of  the 
Cacao-beans)  from  the  circumstance  that  it  was  purchased 
from  the  proceeds  of  the  sale  of  an  enormous  lot  of  cacao- 
beans  given  by  Indian  devotees  at  a time  when  they  were 
used  as  money  by  different  Mexican  tribes.  The  richly  colored 
old  mahogany  chests  ( estantes ) with  brass  trimmings,  used  for 
storing  sacerdotal  robes,  are  worth  looking  at;  as  are  also 
some  of  the  church  plate,  the  chasubles,  dalmaticas  and  other 
vestments  they  contain. 

The  most  precious  gem  of  the  Cathedral  (and  one  of  the  most  valuable 
pictures  in  the  Republic),  surpassing  all  else  in  merit  and  interest,  is  a 
small  painting  of  The  Virgin  of  Bethlehem , by  Murillo  (comp.  p.  cxli) 
hidden  away  in  a small  room  called  La  Pequeha  Capilla  del  Cabildo  (small 
chapel  of  the  governing  board)  behind  the  sacristia  and  three  or  four 
rooms  removed.  (Step  through  the  E.  exit,  turn  to  the  right,  cross  the 
adjoining  room,  turn  again  to  the  left,  then  sharply  to  the  left  again.) 
Permission  to  enter  is  readily  granted  if  the  tactful  visitor  will  ask  any 
of  the  padres  who  may  happen  to  be  in,  or  near,  the  sacristy.  The  paint- 
ing formerly  hung  in  the  Claveria  (p.  285)  where  the  Sagrada  Familia 
now  hangs,  but  it  had  to  be  removed  from  this  quasi-public  place  because 
of  the  insistence  of  the  many  would-be  purchasers.  Time  has  not  dealt 
generously  with  this  masterpiece  of  Spanish  art,  which  hangs  in  a modest 
little  room  wherein  are  several  other  pictures  of  no  particular  merit.  The 
canvas  has  been  patched  near  the  head  of  the  Virgin,  but  the  surpassingly 
sweet  faces  (typically  Andalusian)  of  the  Mother,  and  the  surprised 
Child,  shine  out  with  a winsomeness  that  goes  straight  to  the  heart  of  the 
lover  of  these  little  sacred  gems  of  painted  excellence.  No  one  familiar 
with  the  art  of  Murillo  could  fail  to  take  this  picture  for  a master  pro- 
duction. In  the  belief  that  it  may  not  sound  too  material  or  frivolous  it 
may  not  be  amiss  to  remind  the  utilitarian  traveller  that  this  bit  of 
painted  canvas,  which  is  not  over  four  feet  square,  would  perhaps  bring 
forty  thousand  pesos  if  sold  in  the  open  market. 

This  painting  is  so  coveted  that  during  revolutionary  times  it  usually 
disappears,  to  reappear  when  peace  and  tranquillity  are  restored.  It  is 
believed  the  astute  padres  hide  it  in  a secret  niche  in  the  thick  walls  of  the 
cathedral. 

Emerging  from  the  sacristy  we  turn  to  the  left  and  approach 

La  Capilla  del  Santo  Cristo  (known  also  as  la  capilla  de  las 
Reliquias,  or  relics),  one  of  the  finest  in  the  church,  and  inter- 
esting because  of  its  three  splendid  Churrigueresque  altars 
and  retablos,  and  for  the  many  relics  which  are  said  to  be  hid- 
den behind  them.  In  this  chapel  is  one  of  the  oldest,  the  most 
revered  and  perchance  the  most  valuable  objects  in  the  Cathe- 
dral — a life-size  figure  of  Christ,  presented  by  the  Emperor 
Charles  V to  the  altar  of  the  primitive  church.  Some  histori- 


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MEXICO  CITY 


Cathedral. 


ans  aver  that  it  followed  hard  on  the  heels  of  the  conquerors, 
and  from  this  circumstance  it  was  called  the  Santo  Cristo  de 
las  Conquistador es  (comp.  Merida,  p.  577).  There  are  many 
small  paintings  in  this  chapel,  none  of  which  call  for  particular 
mention.  The  replica  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  is  attributed  to 
Miguel  Cabrera  (see  p.cli).  The  twelve  paintings  of  martyrs 
are  assigned  to  Juan  Herrera.  Behind  some  of  these  pictures, 
let  into  receptacles  in  the  wall,  there  are  (it  is  said)  small  relics 
and  bones  of  the  different  martyrs;  a carved  wood  head  of 
St.  Paul ; a silver  casket  containing  a piece  of  the  veil  worn  by 
the  Holy  Virgin;  the  skull  of  San  Felipe  de  Jesus;  bits  of  bone 
of  San  Francisco  Xavier;  several  threads  from  the  tilma 
(comp.  p.  401)  on  which  the  original  picture  of  the  Virgin  of 
Guadalupe  was  stamped ; the  dried  and  shrivelled  roses  which 
the  Virgin  bade  Juan  Diego  gather  on  the  barren  hill  of  Te- 
peyac  and  show  to  Bishop  Zumarraga  — and  a wearying  lot 
of  other  relics  of  equally  questionable  authenticity.  The  fine 
ribbed  and  vaulted  ceiling  of  the  capilla  is  noteworthy.  At  the 
top  of  the  high  grill  which  encloses  the  chapel  are  the  words 
Cruci  Fixus. 

Proceeding  southward  along  the  E.  aisle  we  come  to  the 
(next) 

Capilla  de  San  Pedro , with  some  striking  reredos  (among 
the  finest  in  the  Cathedral)  which  suggest  a sort  of  rudimentary 
Churrigueresque  upon  Platcresque  and  Baroque  grounds.  In 
the  N.  wall  of  this  chapel  is  the  tomb  of  Fray  Juan  de  Zumar- 
raga, the  first  Bishop  of  Mexico,  and  of  the  celebrated  Gregorio 
Lopez  — a Mexican  Man  with  an  Iron  Mask  — a sanctified 
personage,  a hero  of  legend  and  romance  and,  according  to  a 
popular  belief  in  his  day,  supposed  to  have  been  a son  of 
Felipe  II,  whom  he  served  as  page.1 

The  central  altar  of  the  chapel  is  dedicated  to  the  Holy 
Apostle,  and  the  two  lateral  ones  to  San  Jose  and  Santa 
T eresa.  The  stained-glass  picture  of  San  Pedro  is  of  European 
origin.  The  fourteen  paintings  representing  scenes  in  the  life 
of  St.  Peter  are  attributed  to  Juan  Correa , and  are  thought 
to  have  been  painted  in  1691.  The  Assumption  skied  on  the 
N.  wall  is  accredited  to  Francisco  Martinez  (1736),  who  painted 
the  Episodes  in  the  Life  of  San  Lorenzo,  which  hang  on  the  E. 
wall  of  the  choir.  The  small  paintings  illustrating  scenes  in 
the  life  of  the  Virgin  are  likewise  attributed  to  Correa.  The 
face  and  hands  of  the  figure  of  the  Virgin  in  the  glass  case 
are  of  ivory,  and  the  figure  itself  once  belonged  to  the  Emperor 
Maximilian.  The  ribbed  ceiling  of  this  chapel  is  also  a good 
specimen  of  the  old-time  work. 

1 Lopez  died  in  1596  at  the  age  of  54.  Archbishop  Serna,  and  others, 
made  sustained  efforts  to  have  his  name  enrolled  among  the  saints,  but 
failed.  He  lived  an  austere  life  among  the  wild  Indians  near  Atemayac. 
His  portrait  is  to  be  seen  in  the  National  Museum,  described  at  p.  298- 


Cathedral. 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route . 289 


We  now  come  to  the  east  transept  and  entrance.  The  huge 
wooden  cancel , or  storm-door,  is  of  carved  cedar. 

The  sculptured  wood  book-case  which  stands  here  once 
formed  a segment  of  the  coro , and  it  bears  the  inscription, 
Libreria  del  Coro  del  aho  de  1759.  Formerly  there  hung  in  the 
Claveria  the  celebrated  painting  (perhaps  by  Murillo)  of  Don 
Juan  de  Austria  imploring  the  aid  of  the  Virgin  at  the  Battle 
of  Lepanto.  Later  it  was  moved  to  this  spot,  and  for  many 
years  it  hung  against  the  south  wall.  It  is  now  in  what  perhaps 
will  be  its  final  resting  place  in  the  Academia  de  San  Carlos , 
described  at  p.  313. 

Just  outside  the  entrance  to  this  transept,  at  the  left,  is  the 
Archbishop’s  Palace  — El  Arzobispado.  The  influence  which 
radiated  from  this  old  structure  in  vice  regal  times  was  infi- 
nitely more  powerful  than  that  from  the  Palado  Nacional , 
since  it  bore  much  the  same  relation  to  Mexico  that  the 
Vatican  in  its  palmy  days  did  to  Rome. 

La  Capilla  de  San  Juan  Nepomuceno  (formerly  that  of 
Nuestra  Sehora  La  Antigua ) was  used  as  the  sagrario  until 
1626,  when  by  order  of  the  Marquis  of  Cerralvo  the  old  Cathe- 
dral was  demolished  and  divine  services  were  held  in  the  new 
one.  It  derived  its  name  from  a very  striking  picture  of  the 
Virgin,  a replica  of  a much  venerated  picture  in  the  Seville 
Cathedral,  known  as  La  Antigua.  The  very  effective  faces  of 
the  Mother  and  Child  are  surrounded  by  a sort  of  stamped 
work  resembling  brocade.  The  figurine  in  the  glass  case  at  the 
centre  of  the  main  altar  is  known  as  El  Nino  Cautivo  (captive 
child)  and  is  much  venerated.  According  to  the  ch.  records, 
while  it  was  en  route  to  Mexico  it  was  captured  by  Moorish 
pirates  and  held  for  seven  years.  The  figure  and  its  owner 
were  then  ransomed  for  2,000  pesos.  It  was  placed  in  this 
chapel  Feb.  14,  1629.  The  two  paintings  at  the  sides  of  the 
altar  are  attributed  to  Miguel  Cabrera  (p.  cli)  and  represent 
episodes  in  the  life  of  the  Nino.  The  small  paintings  are  of  St. 
Peter  and  St.  John. 

La  Capilla  de  la  Virgen  de  Guadalupe  was  dedicated  to  Our 
Lady  of  Guadalupe  in  1669.  The  painting  on  the  wall  is  a 
replica  of  the  one  at  the  Colegiata  in  the  town  of  Guadalupe- 
Hidalgo  (comp.  p.  401). 

La  Capilla  de  la  Purisima  Concepcion  is  cold  and  unattrac- 
tive. The  painting  on  the  S.  wall  represents  Santa  Ana,  the 
saint  to  whom  the  chapel  was  first  dedicated  in  1752.  The  ac- 
quisitive Generalisimo  A ntonio  Lopez  de  Santa  Anna  showed  his 
devotion  to  this  santa  by  robbing  her  chapel  of  some  massive 
silver  ornaments  and  candelabra.  Several  archbishops  of  the 
Cathedral  are  buried  here. 

La  Capilla  de  Nuestra  Senora  de  las  Angustias  at  the  extreme 
south  end  of  the  east  aisle  has  a handsome  gilt  reredo  at  the 
back  and  two  elaborately  gilded  altars  at  the  sides.  It  was 


290  Route  42.  MEXICO  CITY  Sagrario. 

formerly  used  as  a meeting- room  by  the  hermanos  of  the 
archicofradia,  and  was  dedicated  in  1649  to  La  Virgen  de 
las  Angustias  de  Granada , one  of  the  most  potent  and  cele- 
brated of  all  the  Spanish  Virgins.  The  picture  of  the  Virgin, 
at  the  central  altar,  is  attributed  to  Jose  Rodriguez  Juarez , 
and  that  of  Nuestra  Sen  ora  del  Refug  w , and  John  the  Baptist 
and  the  Angel  (against  the  S.  wall),  to  Echave  the  Elder. 
Doctor  Francisco  Moreno  y Castro,  one-time  dean  of  the  ch. 
and  founder  of  this  chapel,  is  buried  here. 

Between  the  chapels  of  Nuestra  Seiiora  de  las  Angustias 
and  La  Purlsima  Concepcion  (at  the  S.  end  of  the  E.  aisle) 
is  the  Pasillo  leading  to  the  Sagrario  Metropolitano.  For 
many  years  it  served  as  a baptistry;  then  it  was  converted 
into  the  Chapel  of  La  Soledad.  On  the  N.  wall  is  a mediocre 
picture  of  San  Vicente  Paul,  founder  of  the  Congregation 
de  la  Mision.  On  the  opposite  wall  is  a sadly  neglected 
canvas  representing  Calvary  and  the  Crucifixion.  The  stone 
arch  above  the  entrance  to  the  sagrario  is  richly  carved,  as 
are  also  the  ancient  doors.  In  this  pasillo , there  may  some- 
times be  seen  (its  location  is  subject  to  change)  a tall  cedar 
wood  cross  called  Cruz  de  la  Expiacicn,  which  was  installed  in 
the  Cathedral  (formerly  it  stood  against  the  S.  wall  of  the 
Capilla  de  San  Jose)  with  great  solemnity,  on  the  night  of 
Dec.  31,  1900,  with  the  passing  of  the  century.  It  is  said  to 
represent  a sort  of  protest  against  the  passage  of  the  Reform 
Laws.  It  is  hollow  and  the  many  apartments  contain  bottles 
with  fragments  of  the  different  churches  and  convents  affected 
by  the  demortization  and  sequestration  laws,  minor  ecclesias- 
tical relics,  and  whatnot.  The  Cathedral  evidently  considers 
it  an  undesirable  possession  which  it  will  doubtless  dispose  of 
in  due  course.  An  alert,  bright-eyed  beadle  (bedel),  the  only 
one  the  visitor  is  apt  to  encounter  in  the  ch.,  usually  stands 
in  this  passageway,  clutching  in  his  right  hand  a ccntribution- 
box  shaped  like  an  exaggerated  beer-mug,  which  he  shakes 
vigorously  so  that  the  generous-minded  may  hear  the  clink  of 
the  coins  and  add  to  their  number. 

The  Sagrario  Metropolitano,  though  joined  to  the  Cathe- 
dral, is  a distinct  church  in  itself.  Ecclesiastically  a sagrario 
is  that  part  of  a ch.  wherein  consecrated  things  are  deposited, 
and  this  is  the  special  purpose  of  the  Sagrario  Metropolitano 
in  relation  to  the  Cathedral.  It  is  likewise  an  independent 
parochial  ch.;  the  seat  of  one  of  the  many  parishes  intowdiich 
the  city  has  been  divided  since  1772.  It  is  the  successor  to 
the  first  sagrario  in  Mexico,  which  was  built  on  this  site  soon 
after  the  Conquest,  and  was  administered  by  the  Padre  J uan 
Diaz , chaplain  to  Hernan  Cortes.  Upon  its  foundation  it  was 
dedicated  to  Santiago.  The  present  building  dates  from  the 
middle  of  the  18th  cent.,  the  preceding  ch.  having  been  burned. 
Its  architect  was  the  highly  talented  Lorenzo  Rodriguez , who 


Sagrario. 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  291 


formulated  the  plans  Jan.  7, 1749.  It  is  one  of  the  three  import- 
ant examples  of  Churrigueresque  church  exteriors  now  existing 
in  the  capital,  and  is  remarkable  for  its  two  elaborately  and 
intricately  decorated  fagades,  similar  in  design  and  of  equal 
value.  Of  the  two  fagades  the  south  is  now  the  better,  as  being 
complete  throughout,  — the  east  one  being  mutilated  by  the 
effacement  of  the  royal  arms  of  Spain.  As  a rule  the  numer- 
ous statues  and  high  reliefs  that  adorn  these  fagades  in  such 
rich  profusion  are  uncommonly  good  in  conception,  in  the 
graceful  attitude  in  relation  to  the  decorative  scheme,  in  fine- 
ness of  expression,  and  in  careful  execution.  The  elaborately 
carved  great  doors,  with  their  high  reliefs,  have  much  of  the 
spirit  of  the  decorative  works  about  them,  but  are  somewhat 
lumpy  in  the  character  of  their  ornament.  The  two  principal 
reliefs  of  the  E.  doors  represent  respectively  the  Assumption 
of  the  Virgin  and  Saint  Joseph;  those  of  the  S.  doors,  Saint 
Peter  and  Moses. 

The  inscriptions  cut  into  the  stone  at  the  r.  and  1.  of  the  E. 
entrance  advise  that 'they  were  completed  Feb.  14,  1749. 
The  very  elaborate  chiselled  work  hereabout  illustrates  the 
adeptness  of  the  early  artisans.  The  rich  carving  is  carried 
even  to  the  surfaces  of  the  quaint  old  stone  gargoyles. 

The  Interior  of  the  Sagrario  is  nobly  proportioned,  with 
pillars  and  columns  of  the  same  design  as  those  in  the  Cathe- 
dral, arranged  in  the  strikingly  symmetrical  plan  of  a Greek 
Cross,  with  a dome  at  the  centre.  It  was  repaired  and  redec- 
orated in  1908,  and  in  the  unhappy  rage  for  restoration  it  has 
been  despoiled  of  most  of  its  best  old  adornments.  This  is 
particularly  noticeable  in  the  one-time  beautiful  (now  uninter- 
esting) baptistry  (bautisterio) , long  celebrated  for  the  ad- 
mirable fresco  by  Jose  Gines  de  Aguirre , depicting  the  baptisms 
of  Jesus,  San  Agustin,  and  San  Felipe  de  Jesus.  The  baptismal 
font  has  been  regilded  and  spruced-up  and  is  now  used  for 
baptizing  the  aristocratic  babies  of  the  capital.  We  enter  the 
Sagrario  through  the  pasillo  leading  from  the  E.  aisle  of  the 
Cathedral. 

The  first  altar  to  the  r.  is,  according  to  the  inscription  at 
the  base,  dedicated  to  San  Pedro  Tomas,  the  Abogado  contra 
toda  epidemia  e enfermedad  contagiosa  — advocate  against  all 
epidemics  and  contagious  diseases.  Note  the  unique  carved 
ivory  face  of  the  Virgin,  in  a bevelled  glass  case.  The  altar  at 
the  1.  is  that  of  La  Santisima  Trinidad,  and  the  adjoining  one 
is  dedicated  to  the  Mater  Dolorosa. 

The  High  Altar,  a ponderous  mass  of  gilt  and  polychrome 
figures  in  high  relief,  is  flanked  by  tall  Churrigueresque  altars. 
The  paintings  of  male  saints  are  dilapidated,  and  the  spaces 
into  which  the  altars  are  crowded  are  too  small  for  their 
enormous  bulk.  The  immensely  tall  reredo  at  the  r.  of  the  E. 
entrance  is  a sort  of  Churrigueresque  work  adapted  from  the 


292  Route  4%-  MEXICO  CITY  Palacio  Municipal. 

Baroque.  The  richly  carved  cedar- wood  cancel  of  the  E.  en- 
trance is  worth  looking  at.  The  tawdry  altars  at  the  S.-E. 
corner  are  dedicated  to  Santa  Eduwiges  and  San  Juan  Nepomu - 
ceno;  the  paintings  represent  scenes  in  the  lives  of  these  per- 
sonages. At  the  S.-W.  corner  are  altars  surrounded  by  mediocre 
paintings  of  Santa  Eulalia,  San  Pedro  Nolasco,  Santa  Maria 
del  Socorro  and  San  Ramon  Nonato . The  small  paintings  which 
cling  to  the  piers  represent  the  14  Stations  of  the  Cross.  The 
effective  paintings  in  the  spandrels  of  the  arches  of  the  dome 
date  from  1908  and  are  the  work  of  B.  Galloti. 

At  the  W.  end  of  the  Sagrario,  outside,  and  where  it  joins 
the  Cathedral,  there  is  a small  chapel,  La  Capilla  de  Nuestra 
Se Flora  de  la  Soledad,  with  two  large  paintings;  one,  on  the 
W.  wall,  San  Antonio  de  Padua , the  work  of  Jose  Maria 
Vasquez,  in  1790;  the  other,  La  Purisima,  by  C.  Brumidi , in 
1854. 

At  the  S.-E.  corner  of  the  Sagrario  is  a cluster  of  small  rooms 
called  El  Cuadrante  de  la  Parroquia  del  Sagrario,  in  one  of 
which  hangs  a large  San  Juan  Bautista i en  el  Desierto ; a gloomy 
picture  attributed  to  Murillo,  representing  St.  John  drinking 
from  a desert  spring;  its  authenticity  is  doubtful.  Ranged 
around  the  walls  of  two  of  these  rooms  are  a number  of  por- 
traits (mediocre)  of  Bishops  of  the  Diocese  of  Mexico. 

El  Palacio  Municipal  (Municipal  Palace,  or  City  Hall), 
also  called  Palacio  del  Ayuntamiento,  and  La  Diputacidn  (at 
the  S.-W.  corner  of  the  Plaza  Mayor),  was  established  in  1532, 
as  La  Casa  de  los  Cabildos , where  the  Cabildo  M etropolitano 
or  Ayuntamiento  (city  council),  composed  of  regidores  (aider- 
men),  held  meetings.  Open  daily,  free,  from  10  to  3;  fees 
unnecessary.  It  occupies  the  site  of  the  Aztec  Tlillancalqui , 
or  residence  of  the  commander-in-chief  ( Tlacaelel ) of  the 
Indian  city.  After  the  downfall  of  Tenochtitlan  the  debris  of 
the  primitive  structure  was  removed  and  the  first  city  hall 
of  the  conquerors  was  erected  on  the  spot.  In  1564  the  city 
purchased  the  site  from  the  heirs  of  Hernan  Cortes  for  12,000 
pesos,  and  constructed  a larger  and  more  commodious  build- 
ing, which  stood  until  the  great  riots  of  June  8,  1692,  when 
it  was  all  but  demolished.  The  present  structure  dates  from 
1720-24,  cost  860,000,  and  houses  a number  of  government 
officials,  among  them  that  of  the  City  Council.  The  third  story 
and  the  new  colonial  decorations  were  added  in  1909.  Weekly 
council  meetings  have  been  held  uninterruptedly  on  this  spot 
for  nearly  four  centuries. 

The  Archives  ( archivos ) contain  a highly  interesting,  and 
immensely  valuable,  collection  of  old  books  and  documents 
relating  to  the  early  history  of  the  city;  quite  unequalled  for 
completeness  anywhere  in  the  Republic.  Chief  among  these 
(kept  in  a carved  wood  box  with  a silver  name-plate)  is  the 
Libro  Primer o de  Cabildos  en  la  Ciudad  de  Mejico  desde  1524 


Flower  Market 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  293 


a 1529,  which  contains  the  record  of  the  first  council  meeting 
of  the  Spanish  city,  along  with  the  rubrica  (see  p.  xli)  of 
Her  nan  Cortes  and  many  notables  of  that  epoch.  The  book 
was  re-bound  recently,  albeit  the  paper  (a  sort  of  parchment 
made  of  maguey  fibre)  and  the  ink  are  splendidly  preserved. 
The  old  manuscripts  are  a delight  to  the  antiquarian  and  to 
the  bibliophile,  as  are  also  the  parchment  books,  with  their 
attractive  bindings  and  illuminated  text  and  illustrations. 
The  somewhat  unprepossessing  entrance  to  the  palacio  is 
near  the  centre  of  the  portales.  By  ascending  the  grand  stair- 
way which  leads  up  from  the  r.,  and  then  turning  to  the  r.,  we 
come  to  the  Salon  de  Cabildos  del  Honorable  Ayuntamiento , 
which  contains  62  highly  interesting  portraits,  in  oil,  of  the 
primitive  rulers  of  Mexico  from  Her  nan  Cortes  to  Juan  O' Do- 
noju,  last  of  the  Spanish  line;  the  inscriptions  on  the  different 
paintings  refer  to  their  life  and  work.  The  student  of  character 
will  be  interested  in  the  lean,  hatchet-faces  of  some  of  these 
early  vice-kings.  The  life-size  paintings  of  Morelos,  Hidalgo 
and  Guerrero  are  the  work  of  Tiburcio  Sanchez.  The  large, 
and  somewhat  faded,  allegorical  painting  on  the  ceiling  is 
by  F.  Parra,  and  portrays  the  different  types  and  costumes 
from  the  epoch  of  the  Conquest  to  the  present  time.  In  the 
adjoining  rooms  are  portraits  of  the  rulers  of  Independent 
Mexico,  of  prominent  figures  in  the  history  of  the  Republic, 
and  of  the  various  governors  of  the  city. 

The  Flower  Market  ( Mercado  de  Flores ),  at  the  N.-W.  cor- 
I ner  of  the  Cathedral  (PI.  H,  4),  is  a somewhat  shabby  affair, 

, erected  in  1881  on  the  site  of  the  Ilhuicatitlan,  or  Aztec  temple 
dedicated  to  Quetzalcoatl  (see  p.  304).  Flowers  are  on  sale  here 
every  day  of  the  year;  those  most  in  evidence  are  roses  in 
great  variety,  violets,  carnations,  poppies,  tuberoses,  mar- 
guerites, pansies,  lilies,  gardenias,  camelias,  etc.  Many  huge 
funeral  wreaths  are  usually  to  be  seen  here.  The  native  love 
for  flowers  is  proverbial,  but  their  refining  influence  does  not 
prevent  the  venders  from  asking  much  more  than  they  expect 
to  receive.  The  right  price  for  a medium-size  bunch  of  roses 
or  violets  is  25  c.  These  can  generally  be  bought  cheaper  at 
the  other  city  markets.  Prices  are  apt  to  be  double  on  feast- 
days  and  Sundays.  Indians  from  the  surrounding  country 
bring  freshly-cut  flowers  here,  and  if  they  fail  to  dispose  of 
them  they  usually  hawk  them  about  the  streets,  or  offer  them 
from  house  to  house.  Their  potted  plants  are  usually  cut- 
tings or  slips  made  to  look  right,  but  which  generally  die 
within  two  or  three  days.  Frequently  a fine-looking  palm  will 
die  because  it  has  been  transplanted  into  a pot  too  small  for 
it.  Bargaining  is  always  necessary. 

Tropical  song-birds  in  native-made  bamboo  cages  are  beau- 
tiful features  of  the  Flower  Market,  and  the  visitor  will  be  re- 
paid for  a visit  simply  to  hear  these  sweet  songsters.  Parrots 


MEXICO  CITY 


Los  Pcrtales . 


294  Route  /$. 

(loros)  are  much  in  evidence:  prices  vary  from  $2  to  $10. 

It  is  well  to  remember  that  only  the  yellow-heads  learn  to 
talk.  The  red-heads,  and  the  small  green  parokets,  are 
usually  distinguished  only  for  their  strident  voices,  and  for  an 
amazing  capacity  for  making  unmelodious  noises. 

The  Portal  de  los  Mercaderes  (arcade  of  the  shop-keepers) 
flanks  the  W.  side  of  the  Plaza  Mayor.  Beside  being  the  busi- 
est and  most  attractive  arcade  of  the  city,  it  is  perhaps  the 
oldest,  since  its  foundation  dates  from  the  years  which  imme- 
diately followed  the  Conquest.  In  April,  1524,  the  property 
owners  along  this  plaza  were  accorded  permission  to  erect, 
each,  a portico  25  ft.  wdde,  in  front  of  their  respective  shops, 
to  afford  a sun-shelter  to  pedestrians  and  a refuge  from  the 
rain  to  the  market-men  who  at  that  period  maintained  many 
small  open-air  stands  in  the  plaza.  Ere  long  these  cool, 
sheltered  spots  were  much  sought  by  various  small  craftsmen ; 
the  first  to  lodge  themselves,  swallow-like,  in  the  angles  of 
the  porticoes,  were  the  public  scribes  or  evangelistas  (evange- 
lists), as  the  Mexicans  call  them.  For  more  than  three  cen- 
turies, successive  dynasties  of  these  lowly  scriveners  were 
features  of  this  spot ; reading  and  writing  the  impassioned  cor- 
respondence of  the  unlettered  criadas  (serving-maids)  and  of 
those  whose  youth  was  passed  in  pursuits  other  than  learning 
to  give  chirographical  expression  to  their  fiery  southern  senti- 
ments. The  advance  of  education  has  reduced  greatly  the 
number  of  these  escribientes,  and  a recent  local  ordinance 
relegated  the  majority  to  the  Thieves’ Market  (p.296),  and  to 
less  busy  sections  of  the  city. 

Beneath  the  27  gayly  decorated  arches,  illumined  with 
advertisements  of  lottery  drawings,  bull-fight  posters,  theatrical 
announcements  and  whatnot,  are  a host  of  small  dulcerlas  and 
toy,  spectacle,  book,  pinch-beck  jewellery  and  ice-cream 
shops ; while  in  the  whitewashed  angles,  which  afford  scarcely  ; 
room  enough  to  turn,  are  microscopic  printing-offices,  equipped 
with  a tiny  hand-press,  where  the  impecuniously  proud  can 
obtain  a dozen  or  more  bizarre  little  visiting  or  mourning  cards ; j 
have  their  names  stamped  on  metal  key-ring  discs,  purchase 
recipes  for  making  love-philters,  and  for  ink,  have  their  for- 
tune told  by  canary-birds,  or  buy  letter-writers  filled  with 
grandiloquent  and  amatory  epistles  suitable  for  all  occasions. 

These  portales  have  changed  but  little  in  three  centuries, 
and  they  bear  more  or  less  the  same  relation  to  Mexico  that 
Piccadilly  Circus  does  to  London  and  the  Rialto  to  New  York. 

A chattering  throng  pulses  steadily  beneath  them,  and  the 
busy  foreigner  who  has  perhaps  never  realized  how  slowly  a 
Mexican  can  walk  when  on  pleasure  bent,  forms  definite  con- 
clusions w’hen  once  he  trails  a dawdler  through  this  short 
promenade.  The  spot  is  the  chosen  field  of  sly  rateros  (comp, 
p.lxvii)  who  here  ply  their  trade  industriously  and  with  sus- 


Monte  de  Piedad.  MEXICO  CITY  1,2.  Route.  295 

tained  success.  The  cautious  traveller  will  keep  a tight  grasp 
on  his  valuables  when  he  is  in  this  locality. 

The  arcade  which  faces  north  and  which  occupies  half  of  the 
southern  side  of  the  Plaza  Mayor  is  known  as  the  Portal  de 
las  Flores.  In  former  times  the  canals  led  to  the  plaza  and 
this  portal  was  the  old  flower  market.  The  Indian  canoes  came 
from  the  Viga  and  the  lakes  beyond,  directly  up  to  stone 
steps  which  led  from  the  street  down  to  the  water;  in  the 
early  morning  the  entire  portal  was  strewn  with  a wealth  of 
freshly  cut  roses  and  other  flowers. 

The  National  Pawn-Shop  — El  Monte  de  Piedad  (moun- 
tain of  piety),  also  called  El  Montepio , faces  the  park  which 
flanks  the  W.  side  of  the  Cathedral.  Above  the  high  arched 
doorway  are  the  bronze  letters  N -Monte  de  Piedad.  The  bronze 
bust  above  this  arch  is  that  of  its  philanthropic  founder,  Pedro 
Jose  Romero  de  Terreros , Conde  de  Regia , owner  of  the  once 
fabulously  rich  mines  of  Real  del  Monte  (p.423).  The  bronze 
tablet  was  placed  in  its  present  position  in  1878. 

The  Monte  de  Piedad  was  founded  Feb.  25,  1775  (tablet),  with  a capi- 
talization of  $300,000.  The  purpose  of  the  institution  was  to  loan  money 
upon  the  personal  property  of  the  poor  at  a low  rate  of  interest,  to  free 
them  from  the  usurious  rates  of  interest  charged  by  private  pawn-brokers 
(prestamistas) . The  Mexican  Monte  de  Piedad  corresponds  to  the  Monti  di 
Pieta  of  the  Italians,  an  institution  established  first  at  Rome,  under  Leo 
X,  by  charitable  persons  who  wished  to  rescue  the  poor  and  needy  from 
usurious  money-lenders.  Both  the  name  and  system  were  introduced  into 
France  and  Spain,  from  which  latter  country  it  reached  Mexico.  “ Monte  ” 
in  this  sense  means  a public  or  state  loan,  hence  also  a species  of  “ bank." 

As  the  main  door  leads  into  the  office  and  patio,  the  visitor 
is  advised  to  enter  the  almonte  (sales-room)  by  one  of  the  6 
doors  at  the  right.  Above  the  space  between  the  3d  and  4th 
doors  is  the  word  A Imoneda  (auction).  When  a sale  (usually 
held  monthly)  of  pledges  is  in  preparation,  a metal  sign  “Re- 
mate de  prendas  el  dia  25  del  corriente  mes”  (auction  sale  the 
25th  of  the  current  month)  is  hung  out  near  the  third  doorway. 

A host  of  articles  are  pledged,  ranging  from  pianos,  auto- 
mobiles and  beautiful  jewellery,  to  office-safes,  sad-irons,  etc. 
The  ostensibly  rich  are  the  steady  patrons  of  the  place;  it  is 
not  unusual  for  them  to  pawn  jewels,  carriages,  and  house- 
hold articles  for  the  wherewithal  to  secure  a box  at  the  opera 
or  to  indulge  in  some  coveted  pleasure.  A surprisingly  fine 
lot  of  jewellery  and  personal  treasures,  at  prices  ranging  from 
25  c.  to  thousands  of  pesos , are  usually  displayed  in  the  show- 
cases ranged  along  the  front  of  the  almonte.  The  space  behind 
is  generally  crammed  with  sewing-machines,  porcelain,  brass 
beds,  saddles,  pictures,  and  a hodge-podge  of  Lares  and  Penates. 
The  patio  contains  vehicles,  iron  safes  and  heavy  pieces  of  fur- 
niture. 

Almost  anything  portable  and  of  value,  excepting  live-stock, 
can  be  pledged.  Bicycles,  pianos,  sewing-machines,  and  articles 


296  Route  1+2. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Thieves'  Market. 


of  a like  nature  must  be  accompanied  by  a bill  ( factura ) show- 
ing their  cost.  The  smallest  sum  loaned  on  an  article  is  12  c., 
the  largest  SI, 000.  When  an  article  is  offered  as  a pledge,  an 
expert  valuator  fixes  the  price  and  a certain  percentage  of  its 
supposed  cost  is  loaned  on  it.  If  the  article  remains  unclaimed, 
and  cannot  be  sold,  the  valuator  must  take  it  and  pay  for  it. 
The  pledge  is  held  for  its  owner  as  long  as  interest  is  paid  reg- 
ularly. Should  this  cease  it  is  marked  (in  plain  figures)  at  a 
price  considerably  in  excess  of  the  sum  loaned,  and  placed  on 
sale.  If  sold  at  this  price  the  house  deducts  the  interest  due 
and  gives  the  difference  to  the  owner,  if  he  can  be  found. 
Otherwise  it  goes  to  swell  the  profits.  Every  month  (for  five 
months)  a lower  price  is  marked  on  unsold  articles.  The  vis- 
itor will  note  that  many  articles  bear  a tag  with  five  prices 
marked  thereon,  one  below  the  other.  The  lowest  price 
(representing  the  amount  loaned,  plus  the  interest)  is  that 
which  will  be  accepted.  If  the  article  will  not  bring  the  fifth 
price  the  borrower  is  asked  to  redeem  it.  If  he  cannot  be  found 
the  valuator  must  buy  it. 

The  Monthly  Auctions  ( remotes ) are  attended  by  brokers  and 
many  small  dealers  with  a keen  sense  of  values.  The  clerks 
pass  up  and  down  before  the  crowd,  showing  the  price  marked  : 
the  object  being  to  sell  the  article  to  whosoever  bids  highest 
above  the  price.  Lower  offers  are  not  considered,  and  if  the 
marked  price  is  not  obtained  the  article  is  withdrawn.  After 
the  valuator  is  forced  to  redeem  the  pledge  it  maybe  sold  for 
what  it  will  bring,  and  herein  lies  the  supposed  advantage  to 
the  visitor. 

Residents  sometimes  secure  bargains  in  jewellery  and  what- 
not by  visiting  theMontepio  frequently  and  watching  the  down- 
ward course  of  prices  — usually  a question  of  months.  In 
view  of  the  fact  that  diamonds  have  a relatively  fixed  value, 
and  that  Mexico  does  not  lack  shrewd  buyers,  the  cautious 
traveller  will  examine  articles  leisurely  before  investing. 
About  40,000  articles  are  pawned  each  month  in  return  for 
about  a half  million  pesos.  All  but  about  10%  are  redeemed. 
The  interest  paid  on  pledges  amounts  to  something  like 
$20,000  a month.  The  Montepio  does  a limited  banking  busi- 
ness and  receives  objects  on  deposit  for  safe-keeping.  A sav- 
ings bank  is  run  in  connection  with  the  institution. 

Minor  Pawn-Shops  ( empehos ) are  to  be  found  in  almost 
every  street  of  the  capital.  Those  patronized  by  the  lower 
classes  are  uninviting  in  appearance  and  are  usually  filled 
with  a hodge-podge  of  junk  of  no  value  to  the  traveller.  They 
should  be  avoided  as  hot-beds  of  contagious  diseases.  Before 
the  establishment  of  modern  laundries  many  an  unwary 
traveller  was  forced  to  visit  these  places  to  redeem  his  linen, 
unwittingly  placed  in  the  hands  of  faithless  lavanderas. 

El  Mercado  del  \ olador  (known  locally  as  the  Thieves’ 


Enrico  Martinez.  MEXICO  CITY  J^2.  Route.  297 

Market),  a few  steps  from  the  S.-W.  corner  of  the  Palacio 
Nacional  (PI.  H,  4),  was  named  for  a favorite  gymnastic  game 
( Volador ) of  the  Aztecs,  and  stands  on  ground  once  occupied 
by  the  new  Palace  of  Montezuma.  After  the  Conquest  it 
passed  into  the  hands  of  Cortes.  For  many  years  it  was  used 
as  a recreation-ground,  and  soon  after  the  Conquest  one  of 
the  first  bull-fights  on  American  soil  wras  celebrated  here. 
The  Inquisition  condemned  (April  11,  1649)  13  heretics  to  be 
burned  here,  but  the  sentence  was  carried  out  at  the  Que- 
madero  (p.  328)  of  San  Diego.  During  two  centuries  the  city 
rented  the  property  from  the  heirs  of  Cortes,  and  finally  ac- 
quired it  for  $70,000. 

The  market  is  interesting  to  foreigners  chiefly  because  of 
an  idea  that  it  is  a “ fence”  where  thieves  dispose  of  their 
booty,  and  where  gems  and  art  objects  can  be  purchased  for 
a trifle.  In  reality  it  is  a species  of  bazaar  where  tawdry  and 
microbic  refuse  is  sold  to  the  credulous  and  the  indigent. 

In  the  rear  of  this  Mercado  is  one  of  the  largest  of  the  city’s 
fruit  markets  {El  Volador ),  the  focus  of  nearly  all  the  fruit 
which  enters  the  capital.  From  here  it  is  distributed  to  the 
minor  mercados.  Bananas  and  other  fruit  come  hither  from 
the  tierra  caliente  in  a green  state,  and  are  artificially 
ripened  by  being  placed  in  air-tight  bodegas  subjected  to  the 
heat  of  charcoal  fires. 

El  Monumento  Hipsografico  a Enrico  Martinez  (PI. 

H,  4),  in  the  Jardin  del  Seminario  (between  the  Cathedral  and 
Palacio  Nacional) , was  erected  (unveiled  May  5,  1881)  to  the 
memory  of  the  eminent  Portuguese  cosmographer,  who  sought 
to  drain  the  Valley  of  Mexico  by  constructing  the  Cut  of 
Nochistongo  (comp.  p.  135).  The  monument  (designed  by 
Francisco  M . Jimenez)  is  due  to  the  initiative  of  Vicente 
Riva  Palacio,  Minister  of  Public  Works  in  1877.  It  stands  on 
a platform  of  gray  Yautepec  marble  which  supports  a pedestal 
of  stone  from  the  Tepeaca  quarries.  The  platform  is  enclosed 
by  a quadrilateral  iron  railing  which  supports  bronze  lamps 
at  its  angles.  The  bronze  figure  (the  work  of  the  Mex.  sculptor 
Miguel  Norena)  which  surmounts  the  pedestal  is  that  of  a 
young  modern-iooking  matron  clad  in  antique  garb  and  in  the 
act  of  depositing  a laurel  on  the  tomb  of  the  hydrographer. 
She  is  supposed  to  represent  the  City  of  Mexico.  From  the 
head  of  the  statue  (which  weighs  3,000  lbs.  and  was  cast  in 
Paris)  to  the  base  of  the  platform  is  26J  ft. 

The  monument  stands  at  the  exact  geographical  intersec- 
tion of  the  meridian  which  passes  the  southern  corner  of  the 
Palacio  Nacional , and  of  the  parallel  formed  by  the  Calles  del 
Seminario  and  the  la  Moneda.  The  inscription  on  the  N. 
face  defines  its  exact  geographical  position,  the  magnetic  de- 
clination, and  states  that  the  Plan  of  Comparison  is  one  meter 
above  the  inferior  tangent  of  the  Aztec  Calendar io  (calendar 


298  Route  1+2.  MEXICO  CITY  Museo  Nacional. 

stone)  which  formerly  rested  in  the  W.  wall  of  the  W.  tower  of 
the  Cathedral. 

The  bronze  standards  let  into  the  marble  pedestal  give 
various  engineering  information,  with  special  reference  to  the 
water  level  of  the  Lakes  of  Xochimilco,  Zumpango,  San 
Cristobal,  Texcoco  and  Zaltocan;  the  average  tidal  measure- 
ments at  Vera  Cruz,  and  comparisons  between  the  English 
yard,  the  meter  and  the  Mexican  vara.  Much  of  the  data  is 
not  as  useful  as  it  was  before  the  Valley  of  Mexico  was  drained. 

El  Museo  Nacional  de  Mexico  (free  every  day  except 
Saturday  and  national  holidays,  from  10  to  1)  is  a part  of  the 
Palacio  Nacional  and  faces  (N.)  the  la  Calle  de  la  Moneda  — 
a narrow  street  running  due  E.  from  the  Sagrario  Metropoli- 
tan# (comp,  plan  of  the  city,  p.  232,  and  that  of  the  Palacio 
Nacional , p.  267). 

No  fees  are  expected  by  the  employees  and  none  should  be  proffered. 
The  traveller  is  recommended  to  purchase  one  of  the  comprehensive 
catalogues  (25  c.)  issued  in  Spanish  and  English  by  the  director,  for  sale 
in  the  corridor  on  the  ground  floor.  The  illustrations  are  an  aid  to  the 
proper  understanding  of  certain  of  the  objects.  Visitors  are  required  to 
enter  by  one  door  ( entrada ),  traverse  the  rooms  and  go  out  by  the  main 
exit  — la  salida.  Attendants  and  painted  signs  point  the  way.  No  one  is 
allowed  to  touch  even  the  glass  show-cases  in  which  the  most  valuable 
possessions  are  exhibited.  The  doors  to  the  museum  are  closed  Saturdays 
while  the  rooms  are  being  cleaned.  The  Nat.  Museum  Printing  Depart- 
ment issues  a number  of  books  descriptive  of  the  collection:  a list  of  them 
with  their  cost  will  be  found  in  the  back  of  the  catalogue  referred  to. 
Ask  for  the  latest  edition. 

The  Nucleus  of  the  now  extensive  contents  was  the  notable 
collection  of  Documentos  sobre  antigiiedades  Mexicanas  formerly 
preserved  in  the  vice-regal  archives  and  which  the  Viceroy 
Antonio  Maria  de  Bucareli  y Ursua  caused  to  be  moved  (1775) 
to  the  University  (p.  343).  In  1790  the  Viceroy  Juan  Vicente 
de  Giiemes  Pacheco  y Padilla  ordered  that  all  the  archaeological 
specimens  and  Indian  relics  dug  up  from  time  to  time  in 
Mexico  City  should  be  collected  and  sent  to  the  University, 
where  a special  study  could  be  made  of  them.  In  1822  the 
National  Government  established  a Conservatorio  de  Anti- 
giiedades  and  a Gabinete  de  Historia  Natural  in  the  University, 
and  in  1831  Lucas  Alaman  united  the  collections  under  the 
title  of  El  Museo  Nacional.  The  Emperor  Maximilian  trans- 
ferred the  lot  (in  1865)  to  the  present  location,  in  what  was 
once  the  old  Mint,  founded  in  1734,  during  the  reign  of  the 
Spanish  King  Felipe  V.  (See  the  bronze  bust  and  inscription 
above  the  entrance  to  the  Hall  of  the  Monoliths.) 

The  highly  interesting  collection  of  Indian  Idols,  sculptures 
and  relics  is  perhaps  unique,  in  that  the  articles  are  authentic 
and  the  majority  were  found  within  the  Mexican  Republic. 
The  entire  museum  collection  is  singularly  free  from  forgeries, 
and  it  is  to  the  credit  of  the  directors  that  where  the  authen- 
ticity of  an  object  is  doubtful,  mention  is  made  in  the  catalogue. 


Museum . 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  299 


As  the  numbers  and  locations  of  many  of  the  objects  are 
avowedly  temporary,  no  effort  will  be  made  here  to  describe 
them  in  rotation.  Furthermore,  not  all  of  the  specimens  are 
of  special  interest  to  travellers.  Those  meriting  particular 
mention  will  be  referred  to  in  the  proper  place.  Constant 
archaeological  finds  are  being  made  in  the  Republic  and  addi- 
tions to  the  collection  are  received  from  time  to  time.  The 
old  post-offi6e  department  adjacent  to  the  present  museum 
is  being  remodelled  to  accommodate  certain  of  the  exhibits, 
and  a fine  new  building  is  to  be  erected  on  the  Avenida  Juarez 
for  others. 

The  contents  of  the  museo  are  at  present  arranged  in  four 
departments  under  the  special  superintendence  of  conserva - 
dores  — usually  men  who  have  devoted  their  time  to  this 
special  work.  The  sections  are: 

I.  Archaeology  ( Arqueologia ).  II.  Natural  History 

( Historia  Natural).  III.  Anthropology  and  Ethnography 
(Antropologia  y Etnografia) . IV.  Mexican  History  {Historia 
Mexicana) . 

The  Ground  Floor  is  partly  devoted  to  the  heavier 
archaeological  specimens,  of  which  there  is  the  finest  collection 
in  the  Republic.  Many  of  them  were  dug  out  of  the  Plaza 
Mayor  and  the  streets  hard  by.  The  fine  Galeria  de  Mono- 
litos  which  contains  them  was  inaugurated  by  President 
Porfirio  Diaz  in  1887.  The  entrance  is  opposite  the  main  door- 
way of  the  museo.  The  huge  outer  doors  (tablet  above)  are 
interesting  specimens  of  Spanish-Moorish  work,  bronze 
covered,  with  huge,  elaborately  chased  knockers  and  metal 
bosses.  The  long  beams  in  the  ceiling  above  the  zaguan 
illustrate  a style  of  architecture  that  dates  from  the  ear- 
liest Spanish  occupation.  We  cross  the  patio , with  its  many 
archaeological  specimens,  and  enter  the 

Gallery  of  the  Monoliths.  Facing  the  doorway,  embedded 
in  theS.  wall,  is 

The  Aztec  Calendar  Stone  ( calendario  Azteca ),  called 
also  Stone  of  the  Sun  ( piedra  del  Sol),  a huge  rectangular 
parallelopipedon  of  basaltic  porphyry  12  ft.  in  diameter  by  3 
ft.  thick,  which  weighs  24  tons  and  is  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing of  the  Aztec  relics.  When  found  (about  the  middle  of  the 
17th  cent.)  in  the  sub-soil  of  the  Plaza  Mayor  it  showed  traces 
of  having  been  covered  with  a red  pigment.  “ Fearful  that  the 
sight  of  the  stone  might  influence  the  Indians  to  revert  to  idol 
worship,  Archbishop  Montufar  caused  it  to  be  reburied,  but 
not  before  it  was  considerably  mutilated  by  the  natives,  some 
of  whom  took  the  opportunity  of  manifesting  their  horror  of 
the  ancient  gods,  by  pelting  with  stones  this  relic  of  their 
paganism.”  Parts  of  the  stone  were  also  broken  off  when  it 
was  thrown  down  from  the  temple  and  buried  by  the  Span- 
iards. It  was  dug  up  again  in  Dec.,  1790,  and  cemented  on  to 


300  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Museum. 


the  base  of  the  W.  tower  of  the  Cathedral,  where  it  remained 
for  nearly  a century,  exposed  to  the  view  of  all  passers-by, 
and  to  the  action  of  the  elements.  It  w^as  moved  to  the  museo 
in  1885. 

This  immense  specimen,  which  resembles  an  irregular  mill- 
stone with  a disc  carved  on  it  in  low  relief,  evidently  served 
the  Aztecs  as  a calendar  stone  and  sun-dial : the  face  is  carved 
with  chronological  and  astronomical  signs  in  geometrical  order. 
The  central  figure,  with  a protruding  tongue,  represents  the 
sun  — tonatiuh;  the  segments  radiating  toward  the  edge  of 
the  disc  are  symbolic  of  its  rays.  Encircling  this  central  figure 
are  seven  rings  of  unequal  widths:  from  the  third  to  the 
seventh,  they  are  incomplete.  The  inner  ring  represents  two 
groups  of  signs:  each  group  containing  four  symbols.  Above 
the  face  is  an  arrowhead,  symbolic  of  the  wind  (1 echecatl ) 
and  beneath  it  a cluster  of  balls  and  hieroglyphs.  In  the 
rectangles  above  and  below  the  eagle-claws  at  the  right  and 
left  of  the  face  are  symbols  representing  the  four  elements  — 
Air  (echecalonaliuh) , Fire  (fletonatiuh) , Water  (atltonatiuh) 
and  Earth  (tlaltonatiuh) . The  symbols  on  both  sides  of  the 
upper  arrowhead  are  supposed  to  represent  the  years.  Five 
ornamental  discs  fill  the  spaces  between  the  symbols.  The 
rectangles  of  the  second  ring  contain  the  names  of  the  days  of 
the  Aztec  month  ( meztli );  they  begin  above  the  point  of  the 
arrowhead  and  continue  toward  the  left,  thus:  Cipatli  (first 
light) ; Echecatl  (wind) ; Colli  (house) ; Cuetz-pallin  (lizard) ; 
Coail  (serpent);  Miquitli  (death);  Mazatl  (deer);  Tochlli 
(rabbit) ; Atl  (water) ; Itzcuinctli  (dog) ; Ozomatli  (twisted 
plant) ; Acatl  (sugar-cane) ; Ocelotl  (tiger) ; Cuauhili  (eagle) ; 
Coscacuauhtli  (vulture) ; Ollin  tonatiuh  (sun  movement);  Tec - 
pail  (flint) ; Quiahuitl  (music) ; Xochitl  (flower).1 

The  third  ring  contains  40  small  squares  each  with  five  balls 
supposed  to  represent  days  — 200  in  all.  Crossing  this  ring 
and  extending  to  the  sixth  are  four  large  arrowheads.  The 
latter  ring  is  the  largest  of  all  and  is  formed  by  two  huge 
serpents  whose  tails  terminate  in  arrowheads  ornamented 
with  feathers.  The  chronological  figure  between  the  ends  of 
the  tails  signifies  reed  (acatl),  and  is  thought  to  correspond 
to  the  year  1479  of  our  era.  The  human  heads  ornamented 
with  feathers,  eagle-claws,  discs,  ear-pendants  and  whatnot, 
represent  the  gods:  (at  the  1.)  Tonatiuh  — the  Sun,  and  (at 
the  r.)  Quetzatcoatl  — God  of  the  Air. 

The  rim  of  the  huge  stone  is  adorned  with  many  conical 
glyptics,  half-stars  and  balls  — symbolic  of  the  heavens  with 
their  worlds  and  stars. 


1 Archaeologists  disagree  as  to  the  meaning  of  the  ideographs  on  this 
stone,  and  there  is,  no  doubt,  considerable  guess-work  in  their  interpreta- 
tion. Reproductions  of  this  calendar  stone  are  now  to  be  found  in  many 
museums  of  the  world. 


Museum. 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  301 


The  Calendar  Stone  is  said  originally  to  have  weighed  nearly  50  tons. 
Indian  historians  say  it  was  transported  from  the  mountains  beyond 
Lake  Chaleo,  a distance  of  many  leagues,  over  a broken  country  inter- 
sected by  watercourses.  In  crossing  a bridge  which  spanned  a canal  in 
Tenochtitlan,  the  supports  gave  way  and  the  huge  mass  was  precipitated 
into  the  water,  whence  it  was  with  difficulty  recovered.  “The  fact  that 
so  enormous  a fragment  of  stone  could  be  thus  safely  carried  for  leagues, 
in  the  face  of  such  obstacles,  and  without  the  aid  of  cattle  — for  the 
Aztecs  had  no  animals  of  draught  — suggests  to  us  no  mean  idea  of  their 
mechanical  skill,  and  of  their  machinery,  and  implies  a degree  of  culti- 
vation little  inferior  to  that  demanded  for  the  geometrical  and  astronom- 
ical science  displayed  in  the  inscription  on  this  very  stone.  It  is  a price- 
less relic  of  pre-historic  days  and  it  is  supposed  to  throw  much  light  on  the 
chronological  system  of  the  Aztecs.  By  means  of  this  calendario  the 
priests  kept  their  own  records,  regulated  the  festivals  and  seasons  of 
sacrifice,  and  made  all  their  astrological  calculations.  The  symbols  show 
that  they  had  the  means  of  settling  the  hours  of  the  day  with  precision, 
the  periods  of  the  solstices  and  equinoxes,  and  that  of  the  transit  of  the 
sun  across  the  zenith  of  Mexico. 

“ We  cannot  contemplate  the  astronomical  science  of  the  Mexicans,  so 
disproportionate  to  their  progress  in  other  walks  of  civilization,  without 
astonishment.  That  they  should  be  capable  of  accurately  adjusting  their 
festivals  by  the  movements  of  the  heavenly  bodies,  and  should  fix  the  true 
length  of  the  tropical  year,  with  a precision  unknown  to  the  great  phil- 
osophers of  antiquity,  could  be  the  result  only  of  a long  series  of  nice  and 
patient  observations,  evincing  no  slight  progress  in  civilization.  But 
whence  could  the  rude  inhabitants  of  these  mountain  regions  have  de- 
rived their  curious  erudition!  Not  from  the  barbarous  hordes  who 
roamed  over  the  higher  latitudes  of  the  North;  nor  from  the  more  pol- 
ished races  on  the  Southern  continent,  with  whom,  it  is  apparent,  they 
had  no  intercourse.”  (Prescott.) 

The  Sacrificial  Stone  {Piedra  de  Sacrificios),  known  also  as 
the  Piedra  de  Tizoc  (Seventh  King  of  Mexico),  a huge  cylinder 
of  very  hard  trachyte,  8|  ft.  in  diameter  and  2}  thick,  was 
found  (Dec.  17,  1791)  buried  near  theS.-W.  corner  of  the 
Cathedral  atrium.  The  immense  weight  prevented  its  being 
moved  easily,  and  the  workmen  were  trying  to  break  it  up  for 
paving-stone  when  Canon  Gamboa,  passing  that  way,  rescued 
it.  It  was  buried  again,  but  was  exhumed  Nov.  10, 1824,  and 
transferred  to  the  museum  of  the  University.  The  deep  cut 
(made  by  the  workmen)  from  the  centre  to  the  edge  and  down 
the  side  of  the  stone,  greatly  mars  it.  The  face  and  rim  of  the 
stone  (known  to  the  Aztecs  as  Temalacatl ) are  covered  with 
sculptured  figures  in  low  relief.  The  cup-shaped  concavity  in 
the  centre  of  the  face  is  six  inches  deep  and  18  inches  in 
diameter,  and  is  supposed  to  have  held  the  heart  of  the  victim 
sacrificed.  Around  this  depression  are  a maze  of  chronological 
and  symbolic  signs,  supposed  to  represent  the  weeks,  days  and 
months  of  the  Aztec  year.  The  fifteen  pairs  of  figures  around 
the  rim  represent  the  victories  of  Tizoc.  A warrior  holds  a 
prisoner  by  a tuft  of  his  hair;  the  victim  for  the  sacrifice  holds 
a bunch  of  inverted  arrows  as  a sign  of  defeat.  The  ideograph 
on  the  small  panel  at  the  back  of  each  prisoner’s  head  repre- 
sents the  tribe  to  which  he  belonged.  Fourteen  of  the  warriors 
are  clad  in  the  garb  of  the  god  Totec ; the  fifteenth  in  that  of 
Prince  Tizoc.  Two  of  the  prisoners  are  women,  and  the  ideo- 


302  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Museum. 


graphs  signify  that  one  is  from  Xochimilco,  the  other  from 
Coyoacan.  The  conquest  refers  to  the  date  (1484)  when 
Prince  Tizoc  captured  several  cities  alluded  to  in  the  hiero- 
glyphs. The  image  of  the  sun  in  relief  on  the  base  of  the 
cylinder  leads  to  the  belief  that  besides  being  a sacrificial 
stone  it  was  a votive  offering  to  the  sun-god  in  celebration 
of  a great  New  Year  festival  — Xoxohuetzi. 

When  Cortes  and  his  guard  first  visited  the  great  teocalli  in  Anahuac 
(says  Prescott),  they  found  the  summit  a vast  area  paved  with  flat  stones. 
Standing  in  the  centre  of  this  area  was  the  Sacrificial  Stone.  The  method 
of  sacrifice  was  as  follows:  The  prisoner  was  bound  hand  and  foot  and 
stretched  on  the  upper  convex  surface  of  the  stone.  Five  priests  held 
his  head  and  his  limbs,  while  the  sixth,  clad  in  a scarlet  mantle,  emblem- 
atic of  his  bloody  office,  dextrously  opened  the  breast  of  the  victim  with 
a sharp  razor  of  itzli  — a volcanic,  glass-like  substance  hard  as  flint. 
Inserting  his  hand  in  the  wound  he  tore  out  the  palpitating  heart,  first 
holding  it  up  toward  the  sun  — an  object  of  worship  throughout  the  land. 
Then  he  cast  the  smoking  heart  at  the  feet  of  the  deity  ( Huitzilopochtli ) 
to  whom  the  temple  was  devoted,  while  the  multitudes  below  prostrated 
themselves  in  humble  adoration.  While  making  the  sacrifice  the  priest 
expounded  the  story  of  the  victim,  explaining  that  while  life  is  often 
brilliant  in  its  commencement  it  too  often  closes  in  sorrow  and  disaster. 
In  some  instances  preliminary  tortures  were  inflicted,  but  they  always 
terminated  with  the  ceremony  above  described. 

Men,  women  and  children  were  sacrificed,  particularly  in  seasons  of 
draught,  at  the  festival  of  the  insatiable  Tlaloc , god  of  rain.  As  the  chil- 
dren were  borne  along  in  open  litters,  dressed  in  their  festal  robes,  and 
decked  with  the  fresh  blossoms  of  spring,  they  moved  the  hardest  heart 
to  pity,  though  their  cries  were  drowned  in  the  wild  chant  of  the  priests, 
who  read  in  their  tears  a favorable  augury  for  their  petition.  These  in- 
nocent victims  were  generally  bought  by  the  priests  of  parents  who  were 
poor,  but  who  stifled  the  voice  of  nature,  probably  less  at  the  suggestions 
of  poverty  than  of  a wretched  superstition. 

When  the  body  of  a captive  was  sacrificed,  it  was  delivered  to  the 
warrior  who  had  taken  him  in  battle,  and  by  him,  after  being  dressed, 
was  served  up  in  an  entertainment  to  his  friends.  This  was  not  the  coarse 
repast  of  famished  cannibals,  but  a banquet  teeming  with  delicious 
beverages  and  delicate  viands,  prepared  with  art  and  attended  by  both 
sexes. 

Human  sacrifices  have  been  practised  by  many  nations  of  antiquity, 
but  never  by  any  on  a scale  to  be  compared  with  those  in  Anahuac.  The 
number  of  victims  immolated  on  its  altars  would  stagger  the  faith  of  the 
least  scrupulous  believer.  Scarcely  any  author  pretends  to  estimate  the 
yearly  sacrifices  throughout  the  empire  (of  Montezuma)  at  less  than 
twenty  thousand,  and  some  carry  the  number  as  high  as  fifty  thousand  ! 

Bishop  Zum&rraga,  in  a letter  written  a few  years  after  the  Conquest, 
states  that  20,000  victims  were  yearly  slaughtered  in  the  capital. 

On  great  occasions,  as  the  coronation  of  a king  or  the  consecration  of  a 
temple,  the  number  was  still  more  appalling.  At  the  dedication  of  the 
great  temple  of  Huitzilopochtli , in  1486,  the  prisoners,  who  for  some  years 
had  been  reserved  for  the  purpose,  were  drawn  from  all  quarters  of  the 
capital.  They  were  ranged  in  files,  forming  a procession  nearly  two  miles 
long.  The  ceremony  consumed  several  days,  and  seventy  thousand 
captives  are  said  to  have  perished  on  this  sacrificial  stone  before  the 
shrine  of  the  terrible  deity! 

It  was  customary  to  preserve  the  skulls  of  the  sacrificed,  in  buildings 
appropriated  to  the  purpose.  The  companions  of  Cortes  counted  136,000 
in  one  of  these  edifices  1 

During  the  siege  of  the  city  (comp.  p.  cxci)  the  Spaniards  on  more  than 
one  occasion  saw  their  captured  comrades  led  up  the  winding  stair  of  the 
great  teocalli  to  the  dread  stone  of  sacrifice.  The  Aztecs  took  a fiendish 


Museum. 


MEXICO  CITY 


J+2.  Route . 303 


delight  in  torturing  them.  Their  heads  were  gaudily  decorated  with 
coronals  of  plumes,  and  they  carried  fans  in  their  hands.  They  were 
urged  along  by  blows,  and  compelled  to  take  part  in  dances  in  honor  of 
the  Aztec  war-god.  The  unfortunate  captives,  then  stripped  of  their  sad 
finery,  were  stretched,  one  after  another,  on  the  great  sacrificial  stone. 
Their  bodies  were  then  hurled  down  the  steep  stairs  of  the  pyramid,  and 
the  mutilated  remains  were  gathered  up  by  the  savages  beneath,  who 
soon  prepared  with  them  the  cannibal  repast  which  completed  the  work 
of  abomination  I 

Huitzilopochtli,  God  of  War  ( Dios  de  la  Guerra),  a huge 
block  of  porphyritic  basalt  covered  with  crude  and  repulsive 
carvings  in  low  relief,  was  dug  up  near  Chapultepec  Castle 
in  1790,  but  was  re-interred,  to  be  dug  up  again  in  1821  and 
transferred  to  the  museum. 

“The  Aztecs  inherited  from  their  predecessors  a mild  faith  on  which 
they  engrafted  their  own  mythology  and  a spirit  of  unmitigated  ferocity. 
They  recognized  a supreme  Lord  of  the  universe,  but  the  gloomiest  super- 
stitions clouded  their  minds.  The  central  figure  of  their  savage  worship 
was  the  monster  Huitzilopochtli.  This  compound  parthenogenetic  deity, 
half  man  and  half  woman,  has  puzzled  the  students  of  mythological 
science.  The  two  faces  of  the  sculpture  are  unlike,  and  while  some  believe 
the  figure  to  represent  the  Mexican  Mars,  others  call  it  Teoyaomique  — 
the  goddess  of  death.  The  record  of  the  sacrifices  made  to  it  is  appalling, 
and  its  known  history  but  adds  to  its  terrible  impressiveness.  He  was 
the  patron  deity  of  the  nation;  his  temples  were  the  most  stately  and 
august  of  the  public  edifices,  and  his  altars  reeked  with  the  blood  of 
human  hecatombs  in  every  city  of  the  empire.  His  fantastic  image  was 
loaded  with  costly  ornaments.  The  most  conspicuous  was  a chain  of  gold 
and  silver  hearts  alternate,  suspended  round  his  neck,  emblematical  of 
the  sacrifice  in  which  he  most  delighted.  The  huge  folds  of  a serpent,  con- 
sisting of  pearls  and  precious  stones,  were  coiled  round  his  waist,  and  the 
same  rich  materials  were  profusely  sprinkled  over  his  person.” 

“ Huitzilopochtli  is  compounded  of  two  words  — huitzilin,  signifying 
‘ humming-bird,’  and  opochtli/  left,’  from  his  image  having  the  feathers  of 
this  bird  in  its  left  foot ; an  amiable  etymology  for  so  ruffianly  a deity.  The 
tradition  respecting  the  origin  of  this  god,  or,  at  least,  his  appearance  on 
earth,  is  curious.  He  was  born  of  a woman.  His  mother,  a devout  person, 
one  day  in  her  attendance  on  the  temple,  saw  a ball  of  bright-colored 
feathers  floating  in  the  air.  She  took  it  and  deposited  it  in  her  bosom. 
She  soon  after  found  herself  pregnant,  and  the  dread  deity  was  born, 
coming  into  the  world  like  Minerva,  all  armed  — with  a spear  in  the  right 
hand,  a shield  in  the  left,  and  his  head  surmounted  by  a crest  of  green 
plumes.” 

At  the  time  of  the  Spanish  invasion  this  idol  was  the  tutel- 
ary deity  of  the  Aztecs  of  Anahuac,  but  it  is  supposed  to 
antedate  them  and  to  have  been  the  divinity  of  a rude  and 
barbarous  tribe  which  preceded  them.  When  the  astonished 
Spaniards  first  saw  it,  it  stood  near  the  sacrificial  stone,  be- 
fore the  altar  of  a sanctuary  on  the  summit  of  the  great  central 
teocalli  (described  at  p.  clxviii),  and  its  hideousness  impressed 
them  greatly.  This  feeling  was  accentuated  by  three  human 
hearts,  smoking  and  almost  palpitating  as  if  recently  torn 
from  the  victims,  that  were  lying  on  the  altar  before  him. 
The  Spaniards  destroyed  the  teocalli , hurled  the  idol  to  the 
ground  and  later  demolished  another  temple  erected  to  it  in 
the  Aztec  suburb  of  Huitzilopochitli,  a word  corrupted  by  the 
Castilians  into  Churubusco . (See  p.  407.) 


304  Route  1$. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Museum . 


Quetzalcoatl  (plumed  serpent  or  snake  plumage),  Cod 
of  Air,  is  of  hard  basaltic  porphyry  with  realistic  feathers 
carved  in  the  stone,  which  is  cone-shaped,  3§  ft.  high,  with 
the  face  of  a man.  It  is  believed  that  Quetzalcoatl  was  not  only 
the  most  important  of  the  Aztec  divinities  but  was  also  the 
central  figure  of  the  Toltec  mythology.  To  the  latter  he  was 
Lord  of  the  Eastern  Light  and  of  the  Winds.  The  morning 
star  was  his  symbol.  The  word  Quetzalcoatl  signifies  11  serpent 
of  Quetzaili  ” ; its  root  is  quetzal , meaning  a species  of  bird-of- 
paradise.  The  tail  feathers  of  this  brilliant  bird  (still  found 
in  Southern  Mexico  and  Central  America)  constituted  one 
of  the  principal  articles  of  tribute  paid  to  Mexican  chiefs. 

“ [Quetzalcoatl  is  undoubtedly  the  most  interesting  of  the  Aztec  mytho- 
logical figures.  During  his  residence  on  earth  he  instructed  the  natives 
in  husbandry  and  the  arts  of  government.  His  influence  was  most  be- 
nign. Urijder  his  tutelage  the  people  were  happy;  the  air  was  filled  with 
intoxicating  perfumes  and  the  sweet  melody  of  birds.  The  halcyon  days 
he  spent  with  his  people  represented  to  them  the  golden  age  of  Anahuac. 
At  his  command  the  earth  teemed  with  fruits  and  flowers,  without  the 
pains  of  culture.  An  ear  of  Indian  corn  was  as  much  as  a man  could 
carry.  The  cotton,  as  it  grew’,  took,  of  its  own  accord,  the  rich  dyes 
of  human  art.  He  stood  in  the  same  relation  to  the  Aztecs  that  Confucius 
did  to  the  Chinese,  Buddha  to  the  Hindus  and  Mahomet  to  the  Mabom- 
medans.  He  was  said  to  have  been  tali  in  stature,  with  a wdiite  skin,  long, 
dark  hair  and  a flowing  beard.  He  w7as  born  of  a virgin  in  the  land  of 
Tula  or  Tlapallan,  in  the  distant  Orient,  and  in  the  mythic  system  of  that 
happy  realm  he  was  high  priest.  Wherever  he  went  all  manner  of  singing 
birds  bore  him  company,  emblems  of  the  whistling  breeze. 

“ For  some  cause,  not  explained,  Quetzalcoatl  incurred  the  wrath  of  one 
of  the  principal  gods,  and  w7as  compelled  to  abandon  the  country.  On  his 
way  he  stopped  at  the  city  of  Cholula  (p.  519),  where  a temple  w-as  dedi- 
cated to  his  worship,  the  ruins  of  which  still  form  one  of  the  most  inter- 
esting relics  of  antiquity  in  Mexico.  When  he  reached  the  shores  of  the 
Mexican  Gulf,  he  took  leave  of  his  followers,  promising  that  he  and  his 
descendants  would  revisit  them  hereafter,  and  then,  entering  his  wizard 
skiff,  made  of  serpents’  skins,  embarked  on  the  great  ocean  for  the  fabled 
land  of  Tlapallan.  The  Mexicans  looked  confidently  to  his  return,  and 
this  remarkable  tradition,  deeply  cherished  in  their  hearts,  prepared  the 
way  for  the  future  success  of  the  Spaniards. 

“A  general  feeling  seems  to  have  prevailed  in  the  time  of  Montezuma 
that  the  period  for  the  return  of  the  deity  and  the  full  accomplishment  of 
his  promise  was  near  at  hand.  The  day  was  looked  forward  to  wdth  gen- 
eral confidence  throughout  the  w ide  borders  of  Anahuac.  The  conviction 
gained  ground  from  various  preternatural  occurrences,  reported  with 
more  or  less  detail  by  all  the  most  ancient  historians.  In  1510  the  great 
lake  of  Tezcuco,  without  the  occurrence  of  a tempest  or  an  earthquake, 
or  any  other  visible  cause,  became  violently  agitated,  overflowed  its 
banks,  anti,  pouring  into  the  streets  of  Mexico,  swept  off  many  of  the 
buildings  by  the  fury  of  its  waters.  In  1511  one  of  the  turrets  of  the  great 
temple  took  fire,  equally  without  an  apparent  cause,  and  continued  to 
burn  in  defiance  of  all  attempts  to  extinguish  it.  The  following  year  three 
comets  were  seen;  and  n<pt  long  before  the  coming  of  the  Spaniards,  a 
strange  light  broke  forth  in  the  east.  It  spread  broad  at  its  base  on  the 
horizon,  and  rising  in  a pyramidal  form  tapered  off  as  it  approached  the 
zenith.  Low  voices  were  heard  in  the  air,  and  doleful  wrailings,  as  if  to 
announce  some  strange,  mysterious  calamity!  The  Aztec  monarch,  ter- 
rified at  the  apparition  in  the  heavens,  took  counsel  of  N ezahualpilli.  who 
was  a great  proficient  in  the  subtle  science  of  astrology.  But  the  royal 
sage  cast  a deeper  cloud  over  his  spirit  by  reading  in  these  prodigies  the 
speedy  downfall  of  the  empire. 


Museum . 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  305 


“ Even  after  the  Conquest  the  tradition  that  the  true  Quetzalcoatl  would 
return  still  lingered  among  the  Indian  races,  by  whom  it  was  as  fondly 
cherished  as  the  advent  of  their  King  Sebastian  continued  to  be  by  the 
Portuguese,  or  that  of  the  Messiah  by  the  Jews.”  (Prescott.)  Comp. 
Pico  de  Orizaba,  p.  496. 

Tlahuizcalpantecuhtli  (Morning  Star),  or  “ light  of  the 
morning,”  a massive  head  of  hard,  greenish  diorite,  with  fea- 
tures of  a strong  Eastern  cast,  is  one  of  the  most  attractive 
sculptures  in  the  collection.  The  expression  of  the  eyes  recalls 
that  of  the  gigantic  bronze  Buddha  at  Kamakura  (Japan). 
Beneath  this  head  a mirror  has  been  placed  to  show  the  carv- 
ing on  the  under  side. 

Chac-Mool,  or  the  Tiger  King,  a noteworthy  recumbent 
figure,  exhumed  from  the  Maya  (Yucatan)  ruins  of  Chichen- 
Itza  (comp.  p.  581),  by  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Le  Plongeon  in  1874. 
Hieroglyphics  on  ruined  buildings  in  the  midst  of  a dense 
forest  led  the  indefatigable  archaeologists  to  dig  some  25  ft. 
below  the  surface  of  tangled  undergrowth,  to  where  the  statue 
lay  buried.  Without  the  aid  of  engines,  and  by  almost  super- 
human efforts  the  weighty  monolith  was  hauled  to  the  surface, 
and  later  brought  to  the  museum.  The  name  given  to  it  by 
Dr.  Le  Plongeon  is  King  of  the  Itzaes.  The  figure  is  of  trachy- 
tic  tufa,  4J  ft.  long,  2J  ft.  broad  and  3J  ft.  high.  When  found 
it  bore  traces  of  paint  on  its  surface.  Similar  figures  have 
been  found  in  other  parts  of  the  Republic. 

The  largest  monolith  in  the  room  (catalogued  as  the  Mono- 
lithic Goddess  of  Teotihuacan)  is  a colossal  piece  of  am- 
phibolic trachyte  some  10  ft.  high  and  5 ft.  broad,  in  the 
form  of  a squat,  thick-lipped  woman  with  a large  stone  on  he  r 
head.  She  is  believed  to  be  an  ancient  Goddess  of  Water 
(diosa  de  aqua ) from  the  hieroglyphics  on  the  feet,  which  rep- 
resent water.  It  was  found  in  1800  in  a cave  at  the  foot  of  the 
Pyramid  of  the  Moon,  at  San  Juan  Teotihuacan  (see  p.  425), 
whence  its  name.  The  idol  is  of  undoubted  antiquity,  as 
many  of  the  carvings  are  worn  smooth  by  time.  Under  the 
collar  of  stone  is  a square  hole  which  was  once  covered  with 
a gold  disc,  symbolic  of  the  moon. 

Certain  of  the  sculptures  in  the  room  command  the  atten- 
tion for  their  excellent  workmanship  and  for  the  fine  quality 
of  the  stone  — some  of  which  resembles  an  inferior  kind  of 
jadeite  or  nephrite.  The  expressions  on  some  of  the  idol  faces 
are  purely  Indian,  others  are  manifestly  of  Hebrew  cast,  while 
not  a few  show  strong  Egyptian  lines.  The  three  stone  pil- 
lars representing  human  legs  of  immense  size  recall  certain  bits 
in  the  stupendous  temples  of  Karnac.  In  strong  contrast  to 
some  of  the  faces  on  the  idols  in  this  room  are  the  Palenque 
(p.  567)  sculptures  which  are  decidedly  Ethiopian  in  character. 

Others  suggest  Turanian  origin  or  influence,  while  others 
yet  are  so  manifestly  mongoloid  that  the  inference  is  un- 
mistakable. 


306  Route  1$. 


MEXICO  CITY  National  Museum . 


At  the  end  (r.)  of  the  Hall  of  the  Monoliths  is  a small 
chamber,  reconstructed  of  stones  in  bas-relief  from  the  Templo 
de  la  Cruz , Palenque  (p.  567),  in  the  Mex.  state  of  Chiapas: 
they  illustrate  priestly  rituals  of  the  tribe  that  made  them. 
The  stone  at  the  right  was  taken  to  Washington,  after  its 
discovery  in  1881,  but  was  later  returned.  The  row  of  interest- 
ing Maya  sculptures,  on  a raised  dais,  or  wall,  at  the  right, 
came  from  Chichen-Itza  (p.  581),  in  Yucatan.  Some  of  them 
are  strikingly  Egyptian  in  aspect.  In  this  part  of  the  room 
there  is  a bizarre,  disdainful-looking  crested  figure  called  La 
Deidad  Estelar  Cosmogonica  (cosmogonic  stellar  deity)  of 
the  Mayas,  from  Uxmal  (p.  580).  The  left  side  of  the  face  is 
covered  with  a sort  of  tattooing,  indicating  that  the  artist 
knew  something  of  this  art  as  practised  in  Polynesia  and 
Melanesia. 

There  are  scores  of  interesting  figurines  in  this  end  of  the 
room,  prominent  among  them  a sculptured,  standing  figure 
(found  at  Coscatlan,  in  the  Mex.  state  of  Puebla)  of  Coatlicue, 
the  Goddess  of  Death,  with  polychrome  adornments,  bits  of 
turquoise  imbedded  in  the  cheeks  and  a reddish  stone  in  the 
nostrils.  At  the  r.  of  this  is  a male  figure  of  Comaxtli  (or 
Mixcoatl ),  a polychromatic  representation  of  the  God  of  War 
(Dios  de  la  guerra ).  from  Coscatlan . Note  the  bone  pupils  of 
the  eyes  and  the  colored  capes  which  cover  the  backs  of  both 
statuettes.  The  nearby  stone  cylinder,  incised  to  form  two 
involved  serpents,  represents  Quetzalcoatl,  the  God  of  Air. 
It  was  found  in  the  subsoil  while  excavations  were  being  made 
for  the  new  National  Theatre.  In  the  opposite  niche  are  two 
other  carved  figures  representing  Chicomecoatl,  the  Goddess 
of  Agriculture  (deidad  agricola).  The  melancholy,  squatting 
figure,  of  basaltic  andesite,  immediately  behind  the  huge 
Diosa  de  Agua  (from  San  Ju&n  Teotihuacdn),  is  the  locally 
celebrated  Indio  Triste  (sad  Indian)  found  in  the  subsoil  (in 
1791)  of  the  street  of  the  same  name  (Mex.  city),  and  believed 
originally  to  have  crowned  the  summit  of  the  great  Aztec 
Teocalli  facing  the  temples  of  Tlaloc  and  Huitzilopocktli. 
One  of  the  most  striking  sculptures  is  one  called  Tzontemoc, 
a fine  low  relief  of  light-colored  argillaceous  sandstone  (arenisca 
arcillosilicosa ) from  Tepezintla,  Tuxpan,  Vera  Cruz.  It  repre- 
sents the  Sun  God  (Dios  Sol),  Tonaiiuh,  in  the  moment  in 
which  (by  going  beyond  the  horizon)  it  is  converted  into 
Mictlanteuctli , the  God  of  Death  (Dios  de  los  Muertos). 

Before  leaving  the  hall  inspect  the  stone  (about  1 ft.  thick, 
5 ft.  wide,  and  10  ft.  long)  known  by  the  name  Techatl  (del 
Teocalli  del  Quetzalcoatl),  from  the  Quetzalcoatl  Temple,  found 
near  the  Plaza  Mayor  in  1901;  it  is  of  andesite  and,  in  the 
opinion  of  some,  is  the  real  Sacrificial  Stone  of  the  Aztec 
Pabas  (priests). 

The  huge,  squat,  cat-like  figure  at  the  r.  of  the  entrance  to 


National  Museum . MEXICO  CITY 


4$.  Route.  307 


the  hall,  the  Ocelo  ( ocelotl , — tiger)  Tezcatlipoca,  with  a 
deep,  round  hole  in  the  spine,  was  found  near  the  Plaza  Mayor 
in  1901,  and  is  believed  to  have  been  an  incense  burner. 

From  the  Hall  of  the  Monoliths  (monolitos)  we  cross  the 
patio  toward  the  right  (left  of  the  entrance  to  the  patio)  to 
the  museum  proper.  We  enter  the  rooms  of  Arte  Industrial 
Retrospectivo.  On  the  ground  floor  there  is  an  extensive  col- 
lection of  malachite,  jewels,  ancient  costumes,  paintings, 
vestments,  church  ornaments,  Chinese  and  other  porcelains, 
inlaid  work,  quaint  old  Spanish  carved  chests,  tables  and 
other  furniture,  musical  instruments,  specimens  of  ancient 
iron  work,  etc.  etc.  At  the  left  of  the  entrance,  just  within, 
is  an  attractive  little  chapel  with  paintings,  plateresque  work, 
etc.  In  one  of  the  rooms  is  the  gorgeous  state  carriage  ( car - 
roza  de  gala)  used  by  Maximilian;  a very  elaborate  affair, 
made  in  Milan,  by  Cesar e Sala.  An  old-fashioned  carriage 
used  by  ex-President  Juarez , is  also  shown. 

The  stair  to  the  upper  floor  is  at  the  left  of  the  patio  en- 
trance. In  the  suite  marked  Artes,  Industrias,  Etnograficas 
(ethnographic  arts  and  industries),  are  many  specimens  of 
native  work:  life-size  figures  of  Indian  types,  war  trappings, 
beadwork,  ornaments,  etc.  One  of  the  2d  foor  rooms  is  given 
over  to  a display  of  highly  interesting  Codices,  conspicuous 
among  them  the  Lienzo  de  Tlaxcala  depicting  scenes  in  the 
Spanish  Conquest.  Many  codices  cover  the  walls,  and 
among  them  are  fragments  of  ancient  maps.  The  Codex 
Alberto  Garcia  Granados  was  made  before  the  Spanish  inva- 
sion, on  maguey  paper,  or  American  papyrus ; it  is  a record  of 
instances  in  the  life  of  the  kings  of  Andhuac  immediately  prior 
to  the  conquest. 

In  the  Seccion  de  Arqueologia,  on  the  Third  Floor  are  (at 
present)  many  interesting  specimens  of  the  fine  arts.  Near 
the  entrance,  in  a glass  case,  there  is  sometimes  shown  a 
serpentine  mask  of  jadeite,  turquoise  (called  la  mascarilla  de 
turquesa),  and  red-shell  mosaic  said  to  have  been  found  near 
Malinaltepec,  State  of  Guerrero,  in  1921.  The  Greek  key 
pattern,  in  red,  is  a conspicuous  design  on  the  face,  which  is 
Asiatic  in  appearance.  The  remarkably  well  executed  gold, 
silver,  jadeite,  obsidian  and  copper  jewelry  and  ornaments  of 
the  different  Indian  races  are  highly  interesting. 

In  this  finest  collection  in  Mexico  are  representative  pieces 
made  by  the  Maya , Totonaca,  Mixteca,  Zapoteca , Tolteca , 
Azteca,  Tarasca  and  other  peoples  native  to  Mexico.  Certain 
of  the  jade  and  onyx  articles  are  very  artistic.  Most  of  them 
were  taken  from  tombs  or  pyramids,  and  they  throw  con- 
siderable light  on  the  skill  of  the  native  craftsmen  before  they 
were  influenced  by  alien  ideas.  Each  specimen  is  marked  with 
the  name  of  the  tribe  and  the  locality  whence  it  came.  The 
yellow  gold  image  of  Quetzalcoatly  found  at  the  Pyramid  of 


MEXICO  CITY  Museum  Pictures . 


308  Route  £2. 

Papantla  (p.  507),  shows  a skill  in  carving  equal  to  that  of 
almost  any  modern  craftsman.  Some  of  the  nephrite  axes  one 
sees  here  are  astonishingly  like  those  used  by  certain  peoples 
of  the  South  Seas.  Certain  of  the  articles  show  an  amazing 
similarity  to  those  made  the  Asiatics,  Polynesians,  Egyp- 
tians and  Hindus. 

The  reproductions  of  Indian  architecture  are  supplemented 
by  a series  of  handsome  photographs  of  the  finest  and  best 
known  of  the  ruined  cities  of  Mexico.  An  inspection  of  these 
pictures  gives  one  an  excellent  idea  of  the  great  extent  and 
beauty  of  these  wonderful  archaeological  relics.  The  reproduc- 
tion, in  wood,  of  the  Great  Temple  of  Cempoala  (p.  479), 
in  the  ancient  Totonac  town  (state  of  Vera  Cruz)  of  that 
name  (said  to  have  had  23,000  inhabitants,  with  many  temples 
and  palaces),  illustrates  the  civilization  which  existed  there 
when  the  Spaniards  first  came  to  Mexico. 

The  Maximilian  relics  comprise  more  than  200  pieces  of 
silver  plate  (by  Cristofle),  a marble  bath-tub  said  to  have  been 
that  of  the  Empress,  halberds  used  by  the  imperial  guard, 
porcelain  pieces,  a saddle  used  by  Maximilian  when  he  was 
captured  at  Queretaro  May  5,  1867,  and  many  adornments 
which  belonged  to  the  imperial  household.  Carlota’s  piano 
is  here,  with  a case  containing  rings,  miniatures  and  other 
personal  belongings.  The  Benito  Juarez  relics  are  of  interest 
chiefly  to  Mexicans:  there  is  a death  mask  of  the  president; 
pieces  of  clothing,  the  bed  on  which  he  died,  etc.  Also  similar 
relics  of  the  patriot  Miguel  Hidalgo  y Costilla . — In  one  of 
the  rooms  is  a replica,  in  chalk,  of  the  celebrated  Nestorian 
Monument,  erected  by  Nestorian  missionaries,  in  the  city  of 
Ch’ang-an,  Shensi  province,  China,  in  a.  d.  781,  and  unearthed 
there  in  1625.  — Collections  of  Mexican  birds,  coins,  postage 
stamps,  etc.,  are  on  this  floor.  In  a small  room  overlooking  the 
patio  is  a handsome  reproduction  (by  Tomas  J ulian  F.  in  the 
17th  century)  of  the  apparition  (to  Juan  Diego,  see  p.  394  to 
7)  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe.  The  four  medallions  in  the 
tortoise-shell  frame  depict  incidents  in  this  curious  event. 
Americans  will  be  interested  in  the  old,  faded  and  tattered 
American  and  Texas  Republic  flags,  relics  of  the  Alamo  and 
Goliad.  The  suit  of  armor  worn  by  Pedro  de  Alvarado,  Cortes’ 
lieutenant,  is  perhaps  authentic:  it  has  his  name  cut  in  it. 
There  are  many  weapons,  etc.,  supposed  to  have  been  used  by 
the  conquistador es.  The  silken  standard  which  Cortes  is  said 
to  have  carried  during  the  Conquest  is  no  doubt  a forgery,  as 
the  remains  of  the  original  banner  — along  with  the  sword  of 
the  Great  Captain  — are  in  the  Museo  de  Artilleria  at  Madrid. 
The  two  garrotes , or  instruments  for  capital  punishment,  arc 
indubitably  genuine;  they  are  quite  Spanish  in  their  suggestion 
of  misery.  Likewise  various  other  inquisitional  implements 
hard  by. 


Picture  Gallery. 


MEXICO  CITY 


1$.  Route.  309 


The  Collection  of  Paintings  is  almost  as  extensive  as  that 
in  the  San  Carlos  Gallery.  The  large  oil  painting  of  General 
Don  Porfirio  Diaz  is  by  J.  Cusachs.  In  this  section  are  paint- 
ings of  many  Mexican  presidents,  ecclesiastical  dignitaries, 
and  other  notables  associated  with  Mexican  history.  The 
Prisioneros  de  Guerra,  by  German  Gedovius,  depicts  an  in- 
cident in  the  French  Intervention,  the  taking  of  Oaxaca  City, 
by  French  troops  under  Marshall  Bazaine.  The  striking, 
life-size  painting  of  Maximilian  is  by  Joaquin  Ramirez  (in 
1866).  Maximilian  on  Horseback,  by  A.  Beauce  (1865). 
Near  by  is  a portrait  of  Empress  Eugenie,  wife  of  Napoleon 
III,  and  a fine  picture  of  the  emperor  himself  — the  calculat- 
ing cause  of  the  death  of  the  Emperor  Maximilian  and  his 
unhappy  consort.  The  strikingly  attractive  picture  of  the 
Empress  Carlota,  by  Albert  Graefle  (in  1865),  is  the  best  in 
Mexico  of  Maximilian's  unfortunate  wife.  Among  the  miscel- 
laneous paintings  is  one  of  Fray  Pedro  de  Gante,  one  of  the 
first  Franciscan  friars  to  reach  Mexico  (1523),  and  of  Fray 
Juan  Suarez , and  Fr.  Francisco  Jimenez , who  accompanied 
him;  Fray  Andres  de  Olmos,  chaplain  of  Hernando  Cortes; 
Fr.  Bernardino  de  Sahagun,  the  celebrated  historian;  Fr. 
Alonso  de  la  Vera  Cruz,  an  Augustinian  who  founded  the 
Colegio  de  San  Pablo  in  1575;  the  celebrated  anchorite  Gre- 
gorio Lopez;  Fray  Diego  de  Olarte,  one-time  Governor  and 
Commissioner-General  of  New  Spain;  Fr.  Esteban  de  Ursua; 
Fr.  Sancho  Meras;  Fr.  Luis  de  Morote;  Fr.  Martin  del  Cas- 
tillo; Fr.  Antonio  Margil  de  Jesus,  a prominent  Franciscan 
of  the  17th  cent. ; Father  Juan  Maria  de  Salvatierra,  a founder 
of  many  missions;  Fr.  Junipero  Serra,  who  founded  several 
missions  in  Monterey;  62  paintings  of  Viceroys  and  rulers 
of  New  Spain  from  Hernan  Cortes  to  Juan  O’Donoju ; an 
oil  portrait  of  Hernan  Cortes  de  Monroy  (H.  Cortes) ; an  old 
painting  representing  the  great  conquistador  praying  tD  San 
Hipolito;  one  showing  him  receiving  the  presents  sent  by  Mon- 
tezuma to  the  Spaniards  after  their  landing  at  Vera  Cruz;  a 
picture  representing  Cuautemoctzin  as  a prisoner  in  the  hands 
of  the  Spaniards  after  the  fall  of  Tenochtitlan;  a painting  in 
oil  of  the  Noche  Triste  Tree,  a noteworthy  painting  of  Sister 
Juana  Jnes  de  La  Cruz;  a painting  of  Juan  Jose  Eguiara 
y Equeren  (an  historian) ; Miguel  Velasquez  de  Lorea,  Judge  of 
the  Royal  Court  of  La  Acordada;  Jose  V.  de  Lorea,  2d  judge; 
Jacinto  Martinez  de  Concha,  3d  judge;  Jose  Lopez  Portillo; 
Francisco  Javier  Clavijero,  the  celebrated  Jesuit  historian 
(1731-1787) ; Manuel  Antonio  Valdez,  editor  of  one  of  the  first 
newspapers,  La  Gaceta  de  Mexico  ; Jose  Gomez  de  la  Cortina , 
a writer  (1799-1860);  Ignacio  Valdivieso  y Vidal  de  Lorea, 
diplomat  (1805-1861) ; the  coat-of-arms  of  the  Maximilian 
Empire;  Leonardo  Marquez,  a Mexican  general;  Miguel  Do- 
minguez, Mayor  of  Queretaro  at  the  outbreak  of  the  War  for 


310  Route  42.  MEXICO  CITY  San  Carlos  Academy 

Independence;  Agustin  de  Iturbide,  first  Mexican  Emperor: 
Felix  Fernandez,  or  Guadalupe  Victoria,  the  first  Mexican 
President;  two  oil  paintings  of  General  Vicente  Guerra,  a heroic 
figure  in  the  War  for  Independence;  six  cadets  who  were  killed 
during  the  American  bombardment  of  Chapultepec  Castle  in 
1S47;  General  Anastasio  Bustamante,  one  of  the  early  Mexican 
Presidents ; several  portraits  of  General  A.  L.  de  Santa  A nna,  etc 
In  the  Salon  Alcazar  (so-called  from  the  owner  of  the 
articles  displayed  therein)  at  the  left  of  the  zaguan  leading 
from  the  street  into  the  patio,  is  a varied  and  attractive  col- 
lection of  porcelains,  jewelry,  some  of  Maximilian’s  belong- 
ings, a number  of  beautiful  Chinese,  French,  and  Spanish 
fans,  and  a valuable  assemblage  of  watches,  snuff  boxes,  etc. 
In  the  collection  is  a curious  little  cannon,  formerly  used  as 
an  automatic  sun  dial;  the  sun’s  rays  ignited  the  powder  and 
fired  the  piece  at  high  noon. 

Academia  Nacional  de  San  Carlos, 

The  National  Academy  of  San  Carlos, 
or 

The  National  Picture  Gallery. 

The  Academia  Nacional  de  San  Carlos  (variously  known 
as  El  Museo  Nacional  de  Pintura  y Escultura,  La  Escuela 
Nacional  de  Bellas  Artes,  and  as  the  National  Picture  Gallery), 
founded  as  the  Academia  de  los  Nobles  Artes  de  San  Carlos  de 
laNueva  Espana , originated  in  an  engraving  school  established 
(by  Charles  III,  in  1778)  in  the  old  Mint,  under  the  direction  of 
the  principal  engraver,  Gerdnimo  Antonio  Gil.  In  1783  the 
King  endowed  it  with  12,000  pesos,  and  in  1791  with  a set  of 
casts  from  the  antique  which  cost  $40,000.  Coincidently  he 
sent  over  from  Spain  Rafael  Jimeno  (who  was  assigned  to  the 
decoration  of  a part  of  the  Mex  City  Cathedral),  and  the  ar- 
chitect Manuel  Tolsa  (p.  331),  who  soon  acquired  considerable 
fame  in  his  profession.  From  the  start  the  Academia  exercised 
a strong  influence  on  the  art  life  of  the  Crown  Colony,  and  the 
collection  soon  grew  to  be  the  most  complete  in  America.  In 
1791  the  School  of  the  Fine  Arts  was  removed  to  the  present 
structure  — which  dates  from  the  17th  cent,  and  which  was 
erected  to  house  the  Hospital  de  Amor  de  Dios. 

The  Collection  of  Old  Paintings  is  the  most  valuable  in 
the  Republic  and  is  perhaps  one  of  the  oldest  on  the  American 
continent.  The  celebrated  Reform  Laws  — which  nationalized 
the  church  property  — enabled  the  Government  to  acquire 
many  pictures  which  the  ecclesiastics  brought  from  Europe  to 
adorn  churches  and  sacristies  in  the  Crown  Colony;  thus  add- 
ing variety  and  completeness,  and  enriching  the  existent  col- 
lection with  splendid  examples  of  original  work  by  Murillo , 
Zurbardn,  Rubens , Guido  Reni , Juan  de  Carreno  and  other 


pinturas  miscelaneas 


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C.  Picture  Gallery . MEXICO  CITY  42.  Route . 310a 


masters  of  the  trans-Atlantic  Schools,  beside  priceless  pro- 
ductions of  the  early  painters  (p.  cxxxvii)  of  the  Mexican 
School.  Prominent  among  the  latter  are  works  by  Baltazar 
de  Echave  (El  Viejo),  Sebastian  Arteaga , Jose  Ibarra,  Miguel 
Cabrera,  the  brothers  Juarez,  Jose  Alzibar,  Carlos  de  Villal- 
pando , etc.  The  superb  art-collection  recently  presented  to 
the  Government  by  Sefior  Don  Alejandro  Ruiz  de  Olavarrieta 
contained,  beside  some  striking  replicas  of  European  pictures, 
what  is  believed  by  many  to  be  a genuine  Titian,  a chef- 
d’oeuvre  equal  to  any  in  the  Americas.  Other  public-spirited 
citizens  from  time  to  time  present  single  pictures  or  small 
collections  to  the  Academy,  so  that  the  number  grows  almost 
constantly.  A liberal  government  is  always  on  the  watch  for 
specimens  of  the  rare  and  valuable  pictures  which  are  known 
to  exist  in  the  Republic,  and  it  buys  them  when  the  occasion 
offers. 

Perhaps  nowhere  are  so  many  of  the  early  painters  in  Amer- 
ica represented,  and  certainly  nowhere  can  the  native  art  and 
its  development  be  studied  to  greater  advantage.  The  huge 
canvases  by  Echave  the  Elder,  and  Cabrera,  are  usually  fas- 
cinating revelations  to  the  traveller  unacquainted  with  the 
development  of  this  branch  of  art  in  New  Spain  under  the 
Viceroys,  as  are  also  the  Murillo- like  productions  of  Jose 
Ibarra,  the  admirable  pictures  of  Villalpando  and  Correa,  and 
the  achievements  of  the  grim  and  varying  moods  of  the  in- 
quisitioner  Sebastian  de  Arteaga.  That  grand  old  colorist, 
Echave  El  Viejo,  has  left  more  than  one  of  his  brilliant  crea- 
tions to  remind  the  critical  traveller  of  the  great  Tiziano 
Vecellio,  and  of  certain  other  masters  of  the  European  Schools. 
The  paucity  of  the  collection  of  pictures  by  early  Mexican 
painters  is  due  to  the  fact  that  many  of  these  artists  expressed 
their  richest  fancies  on  the  walls  of  churches  and  convents, 
many  of  which  were  demolished  after  the  Reform  Law  edict. 
No  less  than  fifteen  huge  paintings  representing  scenes  in  the 
life  of  San  Pedro  Nolasco,  by  celebrated  Mexican  painters,  were 
destroyed  in  1862  when  the  magnificent  old  convent  of  La 
Merced  — said  to  have  been  the  finest  example  of  Italian  ar- 
chitecture in  Mexico  — was  demolished.  Others  perished  with 
the  demolition  of  the  Convento  de  la  Profesa,  and  the  various 
chapels  of  the  Church  of  San  Francisco , etc.  Not  a few  fine 
paintings  have  also  been  exported.  (Comp.  p.  cxlii.) 

Where  possible,  a visit  to  the  San  Carlos  Gallery  should  be 
supplemented  by  an  examination  of  the  pictures  in  the  Cath- 
edral, in  the  National  Museum,  those  in  the  beautiful  Church 
of  Santa  Rosa  de  Viterbo,  at  Queretaro  (p.  113),  as  well  as  in 
the  Chapel  of  the  Last  Judgment,  in  the  Church  of  Nuestra 
Senora  del  Carmen,  at  Celaya  (p.  127),  where  the  finest  work 
of  the  celebrated  master,  Eduardo' de  Tresguerras  (called  the 
Mexican  Michael  Angelo),,  can  be  studied. 


310b  Route  /#.  MEXICO  CITY  S.  C.  Picture  Gallery .. 

Revolutions  in  Mexico  usually  are  such  in  the  broadest 
sense  of  the  word,  and  customarily  they  bring  about  many 
changes.  In  singular  substantiation  of  the  truism  that  it  is 
an  ill  wind  that  blows  no  one  good,  the  splendid  San  Carlos 
Academy  often  profits  by  the  political  unrest  which  expresses 
itself  in  revolutionary  outbreaks.  During  these  times,  in 
ways  of  which  the  public  knows  little,  valuable  pictures  disap- 
pear from  cathedrals  and  parochial  churches  and  when  a thor- 
ough search  is  made  for  them  they  are  found  hanging  in  a good 
light  in  the  San  Carlos  Galleries! 

These  mysterious  transfers  often  give  the  happiest  results, 
as  they  preserve  Mexico’s  art  treasures  for  Mexico.  For  it  is 
well  known  that  once  within  the  sacrosanct  portals  of  this 
place,  the  utmost  vigilance  prevails  to  keep  them  there.  This 
was  exemplified  during  the  Carranza  period,  wdien  one  high 
in  command,  on  the  eve  of  departing  for  Vera  Cruz,  then 
Europe,  with  a goodly  part  of  the  national  funds,  bethought 
him  to  pack  up  the  most  priceless  of  the  gallery’s  possessions 
and  take  them  along.  They  were  duly  boxed  and  marked  for 
shipment  on  the  morrow,  but  in  the  still  watches  of  the  night 
a San  Carlos  official  unpacked  them,  replaced  the  fine  paint- 
ings with  worthless  ones,  and  blithely  forwarded  the  shipment 
to  its  destination! 

Pictures  of  purely  historical  interest,  of  viceroys,  early  mis- 
sionaries, friars,  presidents,  emperors,  etc.,  and  others  of  a 
similar  nature,  are  to  be  found  in  the  art  department  of  the 
National  Museum  — which  possesses  a collection  almost  as 
extensive  as  that  of  San  Carlos. 

Revolutions  and  minor  political  upheavals  also  at  times 
cause  private  collections  to  be  broken  up  or  sold,  or  scattered. 
When  pictures  belonging  to  such  do  not  leave  Mexico,  they 
often  find  their  way  to  the  fine  antique  stores  of  the  capital, 
and  there  the  traveller  may  sometimes  find  remarkable  val- 
ues. 

Pictures  bought  of  churchmen  who  sometimes  approach 
strangers  inspecting  cathedrals,  and  offer  paintings  for  sale, 
often  prove  troublesome,  as  they  may  have  been  stolen,  they 
may  not  belong  to  the  man  who  sells  them,  and  their  exporta- 
tion may  be  forbidden. 

From  an  architectural  view-point,  the  low,  squat,  two- 
storied  building,  which  faces  the  Calle  de  la  Academia  (at  the 
rear  of  the  National  Palace),  long  known  as  the  Calle  de  Cor- 
reo  Mayor , is  destitute  of  merit.  The  huge,  boss-studded  doors 
are  interesting  relics  of  the  old  days,  but  the  zaguan  and  patio 
are  gloomy;  the  latter  ill-fitted  for  the  replicas  of  statuary 
which  it  contains.  The  rooms  (upstairs)  were  never  intended 
to  house  an  art  collection,  and  they  are  not  particularly  adapted 
to  their  present  purpose.  The  occasional  endowment  of  private 
collections,  and  various  new  acquisitions,  render  structural 


S.C.  Picture  Gallery.  MEXICO  CITY  Jfi.  Route . 310c 

alterations  necessary  from  time  to  time,  so  that  the  present 
arrangement  is  avowedly  temporary:  this  not  only  with 
regard  to  the  rooms  and  the  house,  but  also  the  arrangement 
and  numbering  of  the  pictures.  At  present  certain  of  the 
pictures  bear  several  numbers,  and  these  are  apt  to  change. 
Recently  the  titles  of  several  of  the  pictures  have  been  altered, 
and  certain  paintings  long  thought  to  be  originals  are  now 
classified  as  copies  ( copias ).  A catalogue  is  in  preparation. 

The  rooms  are  open  free,  daily,  between  10  and  1.  Closed 
Saturday,  which  is  cleaning  day;  and  sometimes  Monday. 
Visitors  are  asked  to  sign  their  names  in  a book,  just  within 
the  entrance  to  the  first  gallery.  On  feast-days  the  rooms  are 
apt  to  be  crowded  with  the  proletariat.  The  rooms  on  the 
lower  floor,  as  well  as  some  of  those  on  the  second  floor,  are  used 
as  offices,  studios,  class-rooms,  and  for  storing  old  or  unclassi- 
fied pictures. 

We  enter  the  patio , cross  it,  ascend  the  wide  stairs,  and  on 
reaching  the  upper  landing,  turn  to  the  right.  The  entrance  to 
the  gallery  is  near  the  entering  angle  of  the  corridor.  Visitors 
are  supposed  to  traverse  the  gallery  and  come  out  at  the  exit, 
which  is  at  the  left  of  the  stairs. 

The  most  important  pictures  usually  bear  the  title  and  the 
name  of  the  painter,  and  can  readily  be  distinguished.  Others 
bear  the  name  of  the  school  to  which  they  belong,  and  the 
date.  Those  paintings  in  which  the  traveller  is  most  likely  to 
be  interested  are  listed  hereinafter. 

Principal  Paintings  in  the  San  Carlos  Academy. 

Early  Mexican  School  ( Pintura  Colonial  Mexicana).  Room 
i (see  the  Plan)  contains  (at  present)  paintings  classified 
under  the  Mexican  Colonial  Period.  In  this  (and  in  the  ad- 
joining room)  are  some  of  the  best  paintings  extant  of 

Baltazar  de  Echave,  el  viejo  (the  elder  — often  called  the 
Mexican  Titian  — comp.  p.  cxlv),  a wonderful  colorist,  a 
prolific  producer,  an  indefatigable  worker,  and  one  of  the 
greatest  painters  ( pintores ) that  ever  came  from  Spain  to  the 
New  World.  He  was  a master  of  vivid  realism,  and  he  left 
an  indelible  impress  on  the  art  of  painting  (el  arte  de  la  pintura ) 
in  the  Crown  Colony.  It  is  greatly  to  be  deplored  that  speci- 
mens of  his  finest  work  were  destroyed  with  the  demolition  of 
churches  and  convents  after  the  passage  of  the  transcendental 
Reform  Laws  ( leyes  de  la  reforma).  Among  the  great  canvases 
here  (great  in  size  as  well  as  genius)  are:  El  Martirio  de  (the 
martyrdom  of)  San  Lorenzo , now  badly  defaced  but  bearing 
unmistakable  traces  of  a master  hand.  — La  Adoracion  de  los 
Reyes  (adoration  of  the  kings).  — La  Visitacion  de  Maria  a 
Santa  Isabel  (the  Virgin  Mary's  appearance  before  Saint 
Isabelle  — 2 pictures). — La  Sagrada  Familia  (the  Holy 
Family).  — La  Oracion  del  Huerto  (Oration  in  the  Garden).  — 


310d  Route  42.  MEXICO  CITY  S.  C . Picture  Gallery. 

Martirio  de  San  Aproniano.  — Other  pictures  by  Echave  will 
be  found  in  Room  2. 

Luis  Juarez  (comp.  p.  cxlviii).  Los  Deposorios  de  Santa 
Catarina  (affirmation  of  St.  Catherine).  — La  Oracion  del 
Huerto.  — La  Anunciacion.  San  Ildefonso  recibe  la  casulla 
de  manos  de  la  Virgen  (St.  Alphonsus  receives  the  chasuble 
from  the  hands  of  the  Virgin).  There  is  another  larger  and  better 
painting  of  the  same  event  in  this  room,  by  the  same  artist. 

Juan  (or  Jose)  Rodriguez  Juarez  (comp.  p.  cl),  a painter 
who  produced  works  of  great  dignity  and  impressiveness,  and 
who  was  called  the  ‘Mexican  Carracci’  ( Anibale  Carracci , 
an  Italian  painter  of  the  Bolognese  School,  b.  1560,  d.  1609). 
His  delineation  of  saints  was  masterly,  and  some  of  his  work  is 
singularly  attractive.  He  can  be  studied  to  better  advantage 
in  the  Mexico  City  Cathedral,  in  the  Capilla  de  los  Santos 
Reyes , where  his  masterpiece,  La  Adoracion  de  los  Reyes 
Magos  (adoration  of  the  holy  kings)  can  be  seen.  Also  in  the 
Jesuit  Church  of  Tepozotlan , described  at  p.  136.  — Santa 
Ana  con  la  Virgen  Maria  Nina  (St.  Anne  with  the  Virgin 
Child). — San  Juan  de  Dios  (St.  John  of  God).  — Other 
paintings  by  the  same  artist  in  other  rooms. 

Jose  Juarez  (comp.  p.  cxlviii),  a student  of  Baltazar  de 
Echave , el  viejo.  — Santos  Justo  y Pastor.  — La  Adoracidn 
de  los  Reyes. 

Sebastian  de  Arteaga  (comp.  p.  cxlvii),  a notary  of  the 
Inquisition.  — Incredulidad  de  Santo  Tomas  (incredulity  of 
St.  Thomas).  — Los  Deposorios  de  la  Virgen , a superb  paint- 
ing of  rare  sentiment  and  rich  coloring. 

Nicolas  Rodriguez  Juarez  (comp.  p.  cl).  — Retrato  del 
Nino  Marques  de  Santa  Cruz.  The  several  small  skied  paint- 
ings in  this  room  are  of  no  particular  merit.  — We  now  pass  to 

Room  2.  — Early,  or  Colonial  Mexican  School.  Aparicion 
(apparition)  de  la  Virgen  a (to)  San  Francisco  (St.  Francis), 
by  Jose  Judrez.  This  fine  canvas  is  regal  in  coloring  and 
technic.  The  upper  part  of  the  picture  is  alive  with  pudgy 
angelitos,  while  below  a throng  of  curly,  bobbed-haired  angels 
pay  homage  to  the  Virgin  with  the  Christ  Child  in  her  arms. 

Jose  (Maria)  Ibarra  (comp.  p.  cl),  next  to  Miguel  Cabrera 
the  greatest  Mexican  painter  of  the  18th  century.  — Jesus 
en  Casa  de  Simdn  (Jesus  in  Simon’s  House).  — La  Samaritana 
(the  Samaritan).  — La  Mujer  del  Flujo.  — La  Mujer  Adultera 
(the  adulteress).  — The  admirable  coloring  of  these  paintings 
(and  others  of  the  same  artist  in  other  rooms)  reveal  the 
reason  for  calling  him  the  Murillo  of  New  Spain.  The  warm, 
harmonious  tones  of  certain  of  the  draperies  almost  equal 
those  of  Murillo. 

Miguel  Cabrera  (comp.  p.  cli),  La  Virgen  del  Apocalipses 
(Virgin  of  the  Apocalypse),  a huge  painting,  startling  in  con- 
ception and  of  wonderful  coloring,  that  almost  fills  the  enc 


S.  C.  Picture  Gallery . MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route . 311 


of  the  room.  One  of  the  finest  examples  extant  of  the  works  of 
this  master.  The  wealth  of  detail  (the  picture  is  seen  to  the 
best  advantage  from  the  opposite  end  of  the  room)  and  the 
amazing  virility  of  the  drawing  recall  some  of  the  finest  Luca 
Giordano  work.  The  picture  dates  from  about  1760  and  is  one 
of  the  very  few  remaining  specimens  of  the  many  huge  can- 
vases painted  by  this  indefatigable  Indian  — whose  finest 
work  perished  with  the  destruction  of  the  Santo  Domingo  and 
other  Mexico  City  Conventos. 

San  Bernardo  Abad  (the  Abbot  St.  Bernard). — San 
Anselmo  (St.  Anselm). — San  Juan  Evangelista  (St.  John 
the  Evangelist),  by  Baltazar  de  Echave,  el  viejo.  — Martirio 
de  San  Ponciano . — Martirio  de  San  Pedro  Arbues.  — El 
Arcangel  San  Miguel  Castigando  al  Demonio  (The  Archangel 
St.  Michael  chastising  the  Devil),  all  by  the  same  painter. 
His  La  Porciuncula  (the  portion,  a Franciscan  Jubilee,  an 
episode  in  the  life  of  St.  Francis  de  Asisi)  shows  the  rich, 
light-proof  colors  used  by  this  master.  They  have  withstood 
the  glaring  sunlight  of  the  Mexican  plateau  for  more  than 
300  years. 

The  Retrato  (portrait)  de  una  Dama  desconocida  (of  an 
unknown  woman),  in  this  room,  attributed  to  Echave,  is  more 
than  likely  the  work  of  one  of  his  pupils.  The  small  painting, 
Bautismo  de  Jesus , is  poor;  likewise  a Martirio  de  unas  Santas 
(which  undoubtedly  is  a copy  by  some  unskilled  artisan). 
Near  this  picture  is  a small  Virgen  del  Carmen,  attributed  to 
Cabrera.  — The  Entierro  (entombment)  de  Cristo,  by  Baltazar 
de  Echave,  el  mozo  (the  younger  — see  p.  cxlviii),  is  notable 
for  excellent  coloring  and  execution.  — Santa  Rosalia,  by 
Nicolas  Correa.  — El  Arcangel  San  Miguel  Amparando 
(succoring)  un  Nino  (a  child),  by  Luis  Juarez.  — We  now 
proceed  to 

Room  3.  — The  Apoteosis  de  la  Virgin  Maria,  by  B.  de 
Echave,  el  viejo,  is  not  in  his  best  manner.  — A beautiful 
Santa  Catarina,  by  Juan  Correa  (an  18th  century  painter  of 
whom  history  makes  an  all  too  brief  mention  — see  p.  cxlix), 
is  worth  looking  at.  (An  excellent  specimen  of  his  fine  work, 
a Scene  from  the  Apocalypse , is  in  the  cathedral  and  is  re- 
ferred to  at  p.  281.)  Also  the  Angels  Guarding  the  Tomb,  by 
C.  L.  Ribera,  painted  in  1840.  The  Latin  inscription  in  the 
left  spandrel  says : ‘And  she  saw  two  angels  in  white  sitting,  one 
at  the  head,  and  one  at  the  feet,  where  was  placed  the  body 
of  Jesus.’  That  in  the  right  spandrel:  ‘ And  they  said  unto  her, 
Woman,  why  do  you  weep?  She  said:  Because  they  have  borne 
away  my  Lord,  and  I do  not  know  where  they  have  placed 
him.’  — In  this  room  are  various  pictures  (some  of  them  bold 
nudes)  of  the  Flemish,  Italian,  Holland,  French,  German,  and 
Spanish  schools.  Conspicuous  among  them  are  the  8 small, 
richly  colored  paintings  (attributed  to  Jose  Ibarra)  in  a single 


312  Route  42.  MEXICO  CITY  S.C.  Picture  Gallery. 

frame  — La  Ascendon , La  Asuncion , and  others  representing 
scenes  in  the  life  of  the  Virgin.  — Una  Bacante , by  Adolfo 
Lefevre,  a generously  unclad  lady  noteworthy  for  the  flesh 
tint. 

The  big  picture,  El  Valle  de  Mexico  visto  desde  el  Cerro  de 
Tenango  (The  Valley  of  Mexico  seen  from  Mt.  Tenango), 
is  by  an  Italian  artist,  Eugenio  Landesio  (1810-1879),  who 
has  several  other  pictures  in  this  room.  — La  Adoradon  de 
los  Reyes , by  Juan  Rodriguez  Juarez . — Una  Odalisca,  by 
Henri  Decaisne , of  the  French  school.  — La  Juerga,  by 
Gonzalo  Bilbao , and  La  Bailadora  (the  dancer),  by  Jose 
Villegas,  are  good  examples  of  the  work  of  the  modern  Spanish 
school.  — Likewise  Tejiendo  las  Redes  (knitting  the  nets),  by 
Joaquin  Sorolla  y Bastida  (1860),  and  the  Garden  Party,  by 
Eduardo  Chicarro  y Aguera  (1880).  El  MonaguiUo  (the  little 
acolyte),  by  Jose  Benlluire  y Gil  (1855),  is  very  appealing. 

One  of  the  most  Spanish  paintings  in  the  room  is  Una 
Boda  en  (a  wedding  in)  Anzo,  by  Carlos  Vasquez  (1865). 
Note  that  the  debonaire  bridegroom  is  flirting  with  one  of  the 
bridesmaids,  to  the  manifest  displeasure  of  the  bride  to  be. 

— The  gloomy  seascape  with  fisherwomen  in  the  foreground, 
at  the  end  of  the  room,  is  depressing. 

Room  4.  — Among  the  many  pictures  in  this  room  is  (twin 
panels  in  one  frame)  La  Creadon  de  la  Primera  Mujer  (crea- 
tion of  the  first  woman),  and  La  Primera  Culpa  — Adan  y 
Eva  arrojados  del  Paraiso  (the  first  sin  — Adam  and  Eve 
thrown  out  of  Paradise)  by  an  unknown  Flemish  painter.  — 
The  striking  picture,  La  Piedad  (piety),  by  Luis  de  Morales 
(1509-1586),  called  The  Divine,  is  repulsive  in  its  hideousness, 
but  this  very  quality,  coupled  with  the  extraordinary  coloring 
(or  lack  of  color),  attracts  like  a magnet.  — The  Betzabe  is  a 
poor  copy  of  one  of  Rembrandt's  pictures. 

Charles  !<*,  Roi  d’ Angleterre,  au  moment  de  marcher  au 
supplier,  by  Jules  Starch,  is  painted  with  striking  fidelity  to 
life.  — The  Argos  y Mercurio  is  a copy  by  one  of  Velasquez.  — 
El  Entierro  de  Cristo,  is  a copy  from  Titian  s famous  painting 
in  the  Louvre.  — Jesus  en  Casa  de  Simon  (Jesus  in  the  house 
of  Simon),  is  a copy  of  a celebrated  picture  by  Pablo  Caqliari 
Verenose  (a  celebrated  Italian  painter,  of  Verona,  1528-88). 

— Carreras  de  Carros , by  Carlos  Vernet  (1758-1836).  — 
Carlos  III,  Rey  de  Espaha  y Emperador  de  las  Indias  (king  of 
Spain  and  emperor  of  the  Indies).  The  inscription  on  this  (by 
Mariano  Salbador  de  Maella,  court  painter  to  the  King  in  1792) 
picture  says  that  he  was  the  founder  of  the  royal  and  distin- 
guished order  of  his  august  name,  and  also  of  the  Royal  Acad- 
emy of  San  Carlos  (see  p.  cxli)  in  New  Spain.  — The  big 
painting  opposite,  is  of  Carlos  ////,  Charles  the  third's  son.  — 
El  Entierro  de  Cristo,  near  by,  is  a copy  (by  Jose  Villegas ) of 
the  celebrated  painting  (now  in  the  Vatican)  by  Miguel  Angel 


S.  C.  Picture  Gallery.  MEXICO  CITY 


/$.  Route.  313 

Caravagio  (Michelangelo,  1569-1609).  — A good  copy  of  a 
Retrato,  by  Rembrandt , is  near  this.  — Los  Borrachos  (the 
drunkards),  is  a copy  of  one  by  Velasquez.  We  now  enter 

Room  5.  — At  the  left  end  there  (usually)  hangs  a famous 
painting  attributed  to  Murillo:  Don  Juan  de  Austria  dando 
gracias  a la  Virgen  por  la  victoria  de  Lepanto  (Don  John, 
of  Austria  ( Felipe  El  Segundo’s  half-brother),  giving  thanks  to 
the  Virgin  for  the  victory  at  Lepanto  — a naval  victory 
gained  Oct.  7,  1571,  by  the  Italian  and  Spanish  fleets,  under 
Don  Juan  of  Austria,  over  the  Turks,  west  of  Lepanto).  For 
many  years  this  great  picture  hung  in  the  Claveria  of  the 
Mexico  City  cathedral.  Later  it  was  removed  to  the  S.  wall 
of  the  E.  entrance  (see  p.  289).  During  the  late  revolution  it 
found  its  way  (with  others  from  the  cathedral  and  different 
churches)  to  the  San  Carlos  Gallery.  It  is  more  likely  the  work 
of  one  of  the  skilful  early  Mexican  painters,  for  some  of  them 
copied  Murillo’s  work  with  embarrassing  perfection.  — Near 
this  picture  is  a San  Gregorio , and  a San  Emigdio,  both  of  rich 
coloring,  and  both  by  Andrea  Vacaro  (of  the  Naples  school). 

San  Ildefonso  recibe  una  casulla  de  manos  de  la  Virgen , by  an 
unknown  Flemish  painter  of  the  XVII  cent.  — El  Des- 
cendimiento  (Descent  from  the  Cross),  a copy  of  a famous 
painting  (which  appalls  one  by  its  horror)  now  in  Antwerp,  of 
Peter  Paul  Rubens  (1577-1640).  — Laban  Apacentando  sus 
Rebanos  (Laban  — A Syrian,  father-in-law  of  the  patriarch 
Jacob  — feeding  his  flock)  is  by  Jose  Ribera , a celebrated 
Spanish  painter  (1588-1656)  called  El  Espaholeto.  — The 
picture  which  sometimes  hangs  above  this  one,  Batalla  de 
Constantino  (battle  of  Constantine),  is  supposed  to  be  a copy 
of  one  by  Rafael  (1483-1520).  It  is  noteworthy  for  its  in- 
tricate detail  and  beautiful  coloring.  — San  Sebastian , by 
Bartolome  Esteban  Murillo  (see  p.  cxli  and  cl),  the  brilliant 
master  (1618-1682)  of  the  Escuela  Sevillana.  Perhaps  finer  ex- 
amples of  Murillo’s  work  are  the  San  Juan  Bautista  (St.  John 
the  Baptist)  and  San  Juan  de  Dios,  hard  by.  The  latter  is 
painted  in  his  Third  Manner,  the  former  mayhap  in  his  youth. 

A finer  expression  of  Murillo’s  unquestioned  genius,  a 
glorious  Virgin  of  Bethlehem,  a picture  which  long  occupied  a 
place  of  honor  in  the  room  of  the  Governing  Board  of  the 
Cathedral  (see  p.  287),  disappeared  thence  during  the  revolu- 
tionary period  between  1910-1919,  but  it  is  believed  that  the 
shrewd  padres  hid  it  in  the  thick  walls  of  the  cathedral  until 
all  danger  to  it  passed.  It  was  a mere  head  of  the  Virgin 
Mother,  but  of  indescribable  winsomeness ; a little  sacred  gem 
of  painted  excellence. 

Retrato  de  la  Reina  Dona  Mariana  de  Austria,  2<*  Muger  de 
Felipe  IV  (portrait  of  the  queen  Marian  of  Austria,  2d  wife 
of  Philip  IV,  and  who  afterwards  became  a nun),  bv  Juan 
Carreno  de  Mirando  (a  distinguished  Spanish  painter,  of 


314  Route  42,  MEXICO  CITY  S.  C.  Picture  Gallery. 

Avil£s,  b.  1614,  d.  1685).  He  was  a pupil  of  Velasquez  (who 
became  court  painter,  in  1623,  to  Philip  IV),  and  certain 
characteristics  of  that  great  master  (1599-1660)  are  notice- 
able in  this  picture  (the  best  of  5 — 3 in  Madrid,  1 in  Munich) 
which,  though  injured  by  the  intense  sunlight,  is  valued 
highly  by  the  Academy. 

San  Geronimo , by  an  anonymous  pupil  of  the  Ribera 
school.  — Another  San  Geronimo  is  by  Alonso  Cano  (a  noted 
Spanish  painter,  sculptor  and  architect,  b.  1601,  d.  1667).  — 
La  Huida  a Egipto  (the  flight  into  Egypt),  by  Juan  Tiepolo , 
a Venetian  painter  ( Giovanni  Battista  Tiepolo , the  last  great 
decorative  painter  of  the  Venetian  school  — 1693-1769)  who 
was  called  to  Spain  by  Charles  III,  to  execute  frescos  in  the 
royal  palace.  — San  J uan  Bautista  Nino  (the  child  St.  John 
the  Baptist),  by  Jean  Auguste  Dominique  Ingres  (1780-1867), 
a celebrated  French  historical  painter  who  lived  in  Italy  for 
15  years.  — Lot  y Sus  Hijas  (Lot  and  his  Daughters),  by 
Luis  Girodel  Trioson  (1767-1824).  — Naturaleza  Muerta 
(Still  Life),  by  Mateo  Crezo  (Madrid  school  — 1635-74). — 
San  J uan  de  Dios , by  an  unknown  painter.  — Sagrada  Familia 
(Holy  Family),  Murillo  school.  — La  Adoradon  de  los  Reyes , 
by  Gerardo  Seghers  (1591-1661).  — Aparidon  de  Jesus  a Santa 
Catarina  de  Sena,  by  an  anonymous  painter  of  the  Spanish 
school.  — Santa  Barbara , by  Maximo  Stanzioni  (Guido  Reni , 
1575-1642,  a noted  painter  of  the  Bolognese  school).  A Santa 
Catarina , by  the  same  author,  is  nearby.  — Aparidon  de 
Jesus  a San  Luis  Gonzaga , by  an  unknown  painter. 

Francisco  Zurbaran  (see  p.  cxlvii).  Cristo  en  el  Castillo  de 
Emaus  (Christ  in  the  Castle  at  Emmaus  — comp.  St.  Luke, 
chap.  24,  13th  verse),  an  allegory  of  Jesus  appearing  to  his 
apostles  after  his  resurrection.  This  picture,  the  gem  of  the 
gallery,  is  perhaps  one  of  the  most  important  paintings  ever 
brought  to  Mexico.  It  was  painted  by  Zurbaran  (1598-1662) 
in  1639  and  was  long  the  prized  possession  of  the  San  Agustin 
Church  (now  the  Biblioteca  National).  After  the  Reform 
Law  edicts  it  was  transferred  to  the  National  Gallery.  For 
many  years  it  was  erroneously  believed  to  have  been  painted 
by  Sebastian  de  Arteaga,  until  a cleansing  of  the  canvas 
revealed  the  unmistakable  signature  of  the  Spanish  master. 
The  seriousness  of  the  composition  (somewhat  after  the  manner 
of  Rembrandt),  the  masterly  handling  of  the  colors  that  pro- 
duce the  extraordinarily  beautiful  chiaroscuro  effect,  the 
marvellous  simplicity  of  the  execution,  and  the  gravely  tragic 
face  of  the  Saviour,  make  a lasting  impression  on  the  beholder. 
The  sobriety  and  dynamic  force  of  an  intensely  realistic  school 
are  manifest  in  every  line  of  this  painting,  which  radiates 
genius.  Its  vitality  and  suggestiveness  are  wonderful,  and  the 
light-proof  colors  used  on  the  canvas  have  aided  splendidly  to 
preserve  it  during  the  almost  300  years  since  it  was  painted. 


S.  C.  Picture  Gallery.  MEXICO  CITY  Jp2.  Route . 315 

Intense  religious  enthusiasm  is  manifest  in  Zurbardn’s 
motive.  It  is  a masterful  production  which  the  sympathetic 
person  will  return  to  time  and  again. 

Jesus  Despojado  de  sus  Vestiduras  (Jesus  stripped  of  his 
raiment),  by  Jose  Ribera,  displays  the  consummate  art  of  the 
master.  — La  Virgen  con  el  Nino  en  brazos  (the  Virgin  with 
the  Child  Jesus  in  her  arms),  by  Giovanni  Battista  Salvi  Sas- 
soferrato  (an  Italian  painter  — 1605-1685  — called  II  Sas- 
soferrato,  from  the  town  in  which  he  was  born;  who  devoted 
himself  principally  to  devotional  subjects  and  Madonnas).  A 
painting  which  might  easily  be  mistaken  for  one  of  the  best 
pictures  of  Murillo.  The  lovely  face  of  the  Virgin  is  typically 
Andalusian,  with  a sweet  winsomeness  that  goes  straight  to  the 
heart  of  the  beholder. 

In  the  immediate  vicinity  is  a Bacanal  (Bacchanalian 
scene  — given  to  the  Academy  by  Don  Alejandro  Ruiz  de 
Olavarrieta)  by  Titian  (Tiziano  Vecelli — -1477-1576),  an 
Italian  painter  surnamed  The  Divine.  It  is  believed  to  have 
been  painted  about  1523,  yet  the  fresh  and  glowing  beauty  of  the 
woman  in  the  picture  is  as  bewitching  now  as  it  was  nearly  four 
centuries  ago  when  her  rosy  and  frolicsome  person  was  trans- 
ferred to  the  canvas.  The  coloring,  the  composition  and  the 
masterful  execution  all  suggest  sensuous  charm,  and  they  show 
the  great  Italian  at  his  best.  — Apoteosis  del  Nino  Jesus , by 
Guido  Reni.  — La  Coronacion  de  la  Virgen,  by  the  same 
artist  (both  of  doubtful  origin). 

Rapto  de  Proserpina,  and  Banquete  de  Tereo,  by  Peter  Paul 
Rubens  (1577-1640),  two  paintings  of  forceful  composition 
(believed  by  some  to  be  originals,  by  others  copies),  with 
marvellous  touches  in  plastic  effect  and  with  the  strength  and 
depth  of  tone  which  were  characteristic  of  Rubens  in  his  latest 
manner.  Both  pictures  are  daringly  luscious,  but  happily 
are  saved  from  pruriency  by  the  strong  love  of  feminine 
beauty  which  evidently  was  the  inspiration.  Rubens’  masterly 
treatment  of  the  nude  is  manifest  in  these  pictures,  which  are 
believed  to  have  been  painted  about  1610. 

Las  Siete  Virtudes  (the  Seven  Virtues),  one  of  the  most 
striking  pictures  in  the  collection,  is  attributed  (perhaps 
erroneously)  to  Leonardo  da  Vinci  (1452-1519).  The  worm- 
eaten  ( carcomido ) wood  on  which  the  colors  are  laid  bears  the 
marks  of  centuries,  and  is  badly  split;  the  ashen  faces  of  the 
women,  the  central  one  of  which  nurses  two  children,  have  a 
strange  charm  which  haunts  one.  The  figure  at  the  left,  hold- 
ing the  cross  ( cruz ) represents  Faith  (la  fe),  the  one  at  the 
right  Hope  (la  esperanza).  — The  painting  hard  by,  a San 
Agustin,  is  by  an  unknown  artist  of  the  Spanish  school.  There 
are  a number  of  paintings  of  minor  note  in  this  room,  which 
connects,  by  an  archway,  with 

Room  6.  — Modern  Mexico  (Mejico  w.odemo)  or  the  Con- 
temporary Mexican  School  is  represented  here  by  a painting 


316  Route  42.  MEXICO  CITY  S.C.  Picture  Gallery. 

of  The  Valley  of  Mexico  (El  Valle  de  Mexico),  by  J.  M. 
Velasco  (1841-1912).  — An  Autoretrato , by  German  Gedovius . 

— Galileo , by  Felix  Parra . — San  Luis  Gonzaga  en  la  Peste 
de  Roma  (during  the  plague  in  Rome),  by  Gonzalo  Carrasco . — 
Another  painting  by  the  same  artist  is  Job  en  el  Ester colero 
(muckheap).  — The  coloring  of  El  Velorio  by  Jose  Jarra , 
recalls  certain  work  of  Van  Dyke . — La  Caridad  en  los 
'primer os  tiempos  Cristianos  (charity  in  early  Christian  days), 
by  Maria  Ibarraran  y Ponce  (1856-1910).  — Otelo  estrangida 
a Desdemona  (Othello  strangles  Desdemona),  by  R.  Gonzales 
Pineda , is  striking. — Sacrifido  de  Isaac,  by  Santiago  Rebull 
(1828-1902)  is  well  drawn  but  faulty  in  coloring.  — La  Casa 
sobre  el  puente  (the  house  on  the  bridge),  by  Diego  Ribera.  — 
Las  Espiritistas  (the  spiritualists),  by  Juan  Tellez.  — Colon 
(Columbus),  by  Jose  Obregdn.  — Mugeres  (women)  de  Ex- 
tremadura, by  Juan  Tellez.  — San  Bartolome,  by  Felipe 
Gutierrez  (1824-1902). 

The  Episodio  de  la  Conquista  (an  episode  of  the  Conquest), 
by  Felix  Parra  (1845),  is  one  of  several  striking  paintings  of  a 
transcendental  event  which  Mexican  painters  have  failed 
properly  to  appreciate.  — Bodegdn,  a noteworthy  painting  of 
still  life,  is  by  the  same  artist.  — - A large  and  noteworthy  pic- 
ture b\r  Peiegrin  Clave  (of  the  modern  Spanish  school),  is 
La  Locura  (insanity)  de  Isabel  de  Portugal  (the  wife  of  Charles 
V),  a canvas  which  formerly  bore  the  title  Young  Isabella  the 
Catholic,  at  the  side  of  her  suffering  mother.  It  is  a large 
painting  with  a wealth  of  detail,  and  of  harmonious  coloring.  — 
Muerte  de  Atala  1 (Death  of  Atala),  by  Luis  Monroy , painter 
of  a famous  picture  (Roman  Charity)  in  the  adjoining  room. 

— San  Gerdnimo , by  Felipe  Gutierrez . — Dante  y Virgilio , by 
Rafael  Flores.  — Jesus  y los  Disdpulos  de  Emaus , by  Ramdn 
Sagredo , is  a theme  inspired  by  the  Christ  in  the  Castle  of 
Emmaus,  described  hereinbefore.  — El  Valle  de  Mexico,  by 
J.  M.  Velasco. 

Room  7 contains  but  little  to  interest  the  visitor:  the  pic- 
tures are  of  no  particular  merit. 

Room  8 contains  the  striking  Fray  Bartolome  de  las 
Casas  (Protector  of  the  Indians),  by  Felix  Parra  (1845); 
another  of  the  thrilling  episodes  of  the  Conquest.  — Equalty 
noteworthy  is  the  fine  El  Senado  de  Tlaxcala,  by  Rodrigo 
Gutierrez , a splendid  picture  illustrating  one  of  the  great 
historical  incidents  of  the  Spanish  invasion;  the  Senate  of  the 


1 Atala,  the  heroine  of  Chateaubriand’s  celebrated  romance  (printed  for 
the  first  time  in  Le  Mercure  de  France,  in  1801),  is  a favorite  character  with 
many  readers.  The  daughter  of  a North  American  Indian  chief,  she  falls  in 
love  with  Chactas,  the  chief  of  another  tribe,  who  is  a prisoner.  She  de- 
livers him  from  death,  and  flies  into  the  desert  with  him.  She  has  been 
brought  uo  in  the  Christian  faith  and  vowed  to  virginity  by  her  mother, 
and  is  faithful  to  this  vow  through  incredible  temptations;  she  finally 
pohsons  herself  in  despairing  fanaticism. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Ave.  5 de  Mayo. 


42.  Route . 317 


ancient  Kingdom  of  Tlaxcala  (comp.  p.  429),  being  urged  by 
its  blind  leader,  Xicotencatl  to  decide  on  its  policy  toward  the 
invaders.  — Hard  by  is  the  equally  striking  and  celebrated 
Descubrimiento  dei  Pulque  (discovery  of  pulque,  see  p. 
lxxxv),  an  allegorical  representation  of  La  Reina  Xochitl,  the 
beautiful  daughter  of  Papantzin , presenting  the  first  cup  of 
pulque  to  King  Tepancaltzin  (of  the  Toltecs). 

At  the  end  of  the  room  is  the  yet  more  famous  Suplicio  de 
(torture  of)  Cuauhtemoc  (see  p.  377),  by  Leandro  Izaguirre 
(1867),  a splendid  painting  illustrating  Montezuma’s  successor 
being  tortured  by  the  Spaniards  in  an  effort  to  find  the  hiding 
place  of  the  Aztec  treasure.  — La  Sagrada  Familia  (the  Holy 
Family'),  by  Rafael  Flores.  — Jesus  Servido  por  los  Angeles , 
by  the  same  artist.  Both  pictures  lack  depth  and  sentiment.  — 
Jesus  Crucificado,  by  Santiago  Rebull  — El  Sueno  del  Marhr 
(the  martyr’s  dream),  by  Jose  Maria  Ibarraran.  A striking 
picture  is  the  San  Carlos  Borromeo , by  J ose  Salome  Pina . 

La  Caridad  Romana  (Roman  charity),  is  one  of  the  best  known 
of  Luis  Monroy's  many  pictures.  (The  idea  for  this  picture 
manifestly  was  copied  from  The  Chinese  Repository,  Vol.  YI, 
the  Twenty-four  Filials.) 


Points  of  Interest  between  the  Plaza  Mayor  and  the  Ala- 
meda, and  in  the  Northern  and  Western  Quarters  of  the 
City. 

Avenida  Cinco  de  Mayo.  Church  of  La  Profesa.  Hotel  Iturbide. 
Calle  de  Gante.  Church  of  San  Francisco.  House  of  Iiles. 
Church  of  San  Felipe  de  Jesus,  Santa  Brigida.  National  Theatre. 
The  Al\med\,  Commercial  Museum.  Post-Office.  School  of  Mines. 
Public  Works.  Casa  Manrique.  Churches  of  Santa  Clara,  San 
Lorenzo,  La  Concepcion,  and  Santa  Maria  de  los  Angeles.  Jam) in 
and  Church  of  San  Juan  de  Dios.  Churches  of  Santa  Vera  Cruz,  San 
Diego  and  San  Hip6lito.  Church  and  Panteon  de  San  Fernando. 
Calles  del  Puente  de  Alvarado.  House  of  Marshal  Bazaine.  1 ivou 
del  Eliseo.  Church  of  San  Cosme.  Colonia  de  Santa  Maria.  1n- 
stituto  Geologico  Nacional.  Casa  de  los  Mascarones.  The  Eng- 
lish, American  and  Spanish  Cemeteries. 

The  Avenida  Cinco  de  Mayo  (Fifth  of  May),  a short  avenue 
(PI.  G,  4)  running  E.  and  W.,  reaching  from  the  Plaza  Mayor 
(Calle  Monte  de  Piedad ) to  the  splendid  new  National  Thea- 
tre (Calle  del  Tedtro  Nacional ),  is  one  of  the  most  impressive 
1 of  the  city  streets  — an  epitome  of  the  wonderful  progress 
! made  during  the  last  few  decades.  It  was  formerly  known  as 
Alcaiceria  (a  sort  of  market-place  for  raw-silk).  W hen  in  1862 
a project  was  under  discussion  to  re-name  some  of  the  city 
streets,  there  occurred  (May  5)  the  famous  battle  of  Puebla 
and  the  French  retreat  therefrom.  Albeit  the  street  was  then 
unfinished  — in  process  of  being  cut  through  the  grounds  of 
the  Convento  de  la  Profesa  — it  was  decided  to  commemorate 
the  victory  over  Napoleon  by  calling  the  new  street  Cinco  de 
Mayo. 


318  Route  Jfi. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Jesuit  Order. 


Among  the  finest  buildings  which  face  this  avenida  is  the 
Edifido  de  los  Ferrocarriles  Nacionales  (the  general  head- 
quarters, ticket  offices,  etc.,  of  the  National  Railway  Lines), 
the  work  of  Ingeniero  Don  Isidoro  Diaz  Lombardo;  and  el 
edifido  La  Mutua  (the  Mutual  Life  building,  of  the  Mutual 
Life  Ins.  Co.),  at  the  lower  end  of  the  avenue,  overlooking  the 
fine  Tedtro  Nacional.  The  big  Bank  of  Montreal  is  housed 
in  this  structure,  as  are  a number  of  foreign  offices.  The 
Mutual  building  was  erected  after  the  rapid  American  fashion, 
by  American  workmen,  and  with  materials  brought  from  the 
United  States.  It  was  the  first  completely  modem  office 
building  to  be  erected  in  the  city,  and  it  dates  from  1906. 
Some  of  the  best  bookstores  ( librerias ) in  the  city  are  located 
in  the  avenue,  which  is  rapidly  acquiring  prominence  as  a 
business  centre.  It  is  one  of  the  cleanest  and  best-cared  for 
avenues  in  the  city,  and  also  one  of  the  best  lighted.  The  beau- 
tiful House  of  Tiles,  which  fronts  on  the  Avenida  Madero , runs 
back  to  Cinco  de  Mayo,  and  lends  artistic  charm  and  pictur- 
esqueness to  that  section  of  the  thoroughfare. 

The  Church  of  La  Profesa,  which  with  its  leaning  tower 
overlooks  the  Ave.  Madero  and  neighborhood  (PL  G,  4), 
sometimes  called  Oratorio  de  San  Felipe  Neri,  and  the  Church 
of  San  Jose  El  Real , was  founded  in  1595  by  the  religious 
order  of  the  Compania  de  Jesus  (with  a legacy  of  $4,000 
left  by  Her  nan  Nunez  de  Obregon)  and  it  was  long  the  Jesuit 
stronghold  in  New  Spain.  The  corner-stone  was  laid  July  6, 
1597,  and  soon  thereafter  Juan  Ruiz  de  Rivera  (Treasurer  of 
the  Mint)  and  his  wife  Doha  Juana  Gutierrez  contributed 
$50,000  toward  its  completion.  For  many  years  the  chosen 
temple  of  the  wealth  and  aristocracy  of  the  vice-regal  capital, 
it  has  perhaps  been  the  subject  of  more  acrimonious  discussion 
and  litigation  than  any  other  religious  structure  in  Mexico. 
From  the  period  of  its  inception,  the  militant  Jesuit 1 Brothers 
were  at  odds  with  rival  ecclesiastical  orders,  and  this  bitter- 
ness culminated  (nearly  two  centuries  later)  in  the  expulsion  of 
the  Jesuits  from  Mexico.  The  city  archives  contain  one  small 
department  filled  with  correspondence  which  passed  between 
the  King  of  Spain,  the  Pope  at  Rome,  and  the  ecclesiastical 
powers  in  Mexico  relating  to  this  ch.  and  its  founders,  and 
not  a little  of  it  is  strangety  at  variance  with  the  humility 
and  resignation  preached  by  Him  in  whose  name  the  ch.  was 
founded.  As  if  in  derision  of  the  whole  affair,  the  great  flood 
of  1629  brought  millions  of  tons  of  silt  into  the  city,  and  with 
the  subsidence  of  the  waters,  the  floor  of  the  ch.  was  found 

1 The  Order  of  the  Jesuits  (Society  of  Jesus)  was  founded  in  France,  Aug. 
15,  1534,  by  Ionatius  de  Loyola , and  was  recognized  by  a papal  decree  of 
Pope  Paul  III.  Sept.  27,  1546.  Loyola  was  born  at  Santa  Casa,  in  the 
Basque  Province  of  Spain,  in  1491.  He  died  in  Rome,  July  31,  1556,  was 
beatified  in  1609,  and  canonized  in  1662.  Maria  Ana  of  Austria,  wife  of 
Philip  IV,  founded  a convent  in  1681  to  enclose  the  house  where  Loyola 
was  born,  and  this  spct  is  still  the  centre  of  a great  annual  pilgrimage  — 
July  31. 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  319 


covered  with  filth,  and  several  feet  below  the  raised  street 
level.  For  many  years  a flight  of  steps  were  necessary  to 
descend  from  the  sidewalk  to  the  ch.  floor.  In  1771  the  prop- 
erty passed  into  Government  hands  and  was  later  transferred 
to  the  Order  of  San  Felipe  Neri. 

The  large  monastery  which  once  surrounded  this  ch.  was 
i celebrated  in  Mexico  for  its  splendid  mural  paintings,  the  work 
of  Miguel  Cabrera  (p.  cli).  The  Oratorio  of  San  F.  Neri,  as 
the  old  cloister  was  called,  was  a magnificent  edifice;  the  Hall 
of  Exercises  (the  work  of  Manuel  Tolsa)  was  known  through- 
out Mexico  for  its  beautiful  chapel,  adorned  with  sculptures  and 
mural  paintings.  Several  fine  pictures  of  the  Seville  School 
were  rescued  from  this  building  when  it  was  partly  demolished 
during  the  riots  of  1859-61  (wholly  so  at  the  end  of  1861), 
and  are  now  in  the  Academy  of  Fine  Arts  at  Mex.  City.  The 
fine  series  of  mural  pictures  illustrating  passages  in  the  life 
of  San  Ignacio  de  Loyola  perished. 

The  ch.  attracts  the  attention  of  visitors  because  it  is  de- 
cidedly out  of  the  perpendicular.  It  has  been  slowly  sinking 
for  years,  but  engineers  consider  it  safe.  The  fagade,  and  the 
towers,  one  of  which  is  decidedly  oblique  and  badly  cracked, 
are  good  examples  of  17th  century  Colonial  architecture.  The 
arabesques,  statues  and  bas-reliefs  of  the  E.  entrance  show 
the  marks  of  time.  The  proportions  of  the  structure,  sur- 
mounted by  an  octagonal  dome  and  two  squat  towers,  are 
! seen  to  great  disadvantage  because  of  the  narrow  streets  and 
I the  proximity  of  the  tall  houses. 

The  over-decorated  interior,  with  its  many  altars,  its  splendid 
clustered  piers  and  swinging  lamps,  is  made  more  sombre  by 
the  tapestries  which  are  stretched  over  the  windows,  and 
through  which  the  light  has  to  pass.  These  tapestries  are  in 
themselves  attractive,  but  the  gloom  forbids  one  seeing, 
advantageously,  the  many  small  paintings  skied  above  the 
tall  altars.  Two  rows  of  four  pilasters  with  gilded  capitals 
(cleaned  and  re-gilded  in  1906)  divide  the  interior  into  three 
narrow  naves,  and  support  the  high  vaulted  ceilings.  The 
8 frescoes  of  the  Seven  Sacraments  and  the  Adoration  of  the 
Cross,  in  the  cimborio , are  by  Pelegrin  Clave  and  his  adept 
pupils,  Felipe  Castro,  Jose  Ramirez  and  Petronilo  Monroy} 
all  students  of  the  Academia  de  Bellas  Artes. 

The  sacristy,  to  the  r.  of  the  main  altar,  contains  nothing 
worth  seeing.  Hard  by  the  entrance  to  this  is  that  of  the 
| Oratorio , which  contains  a few  pictures  of  no  merit.  In  the 
pasillo  leading  to  this  are  some  weather-beaten  allegorical 
paintings  by  Jose  de  Paez,  with  the  date  1774.  To  the  1.  of 
the  entrance,  high  above  an  attractive  iron  reja,  is  a good  As- 
sumption of  the  Virgin , evidently  by  some  student  of  the 
Murillo  School.  The  two  silver  holy-water  basins  are  relics  of 
the  time  when  this  church  possessed  many  beautiful  silver 


320  Route  J&. 


MEXICO  CITY 


CaUe  de  Garde . 


utensils.  The  huge  silver  lamp,  which  once  swung  before  the 
altar  of  La  Santisima  Trinidad , was  made  by  Jose  Maria  Ro~ 
dallega  (in  1793),  a celebrated  silversmith  of  his  time.  This 
altar  was  dedicated  in  1732  and  cost  $11,109.50.  The  Altar 
del  Santo  Cristo  (dedicated  in  1712)  is  sometimes  called  La 
Buena  Muerte  from  a figure  of  the  Redeemer  that  once  be- 
longed to  a religious  foundation  of  that  name  which  was 
established  in  the  Calle  de  la  Profesa  during  the  early  years 
of  the  existence  of  the  ch.  A noteworthy  ceremony,  that  of 
the  Tres  Horas  (three  hours),  — an  exercise  consecrated  to 
the  memory  of  the  three  hours  that  Christ  remained  on  the 
cross,  — is  enacted  in  this  ch.  on  Palm  Sunday  from  3 to  6 
p.  m.  It  owes  its  introduction  in  Mexico  to  Fray  Domingo 
Perez  de  Bar  da,  founder  of  the  Colegio  de  San  Miguel  de  Belen, 
described  at  p.  369.  Solemn  functions  in  honor  of  Our  Lady  of 
Carmen  are  also  features  of  this  ch. 

The  Hotel  Iturbide  (PI.  G,4),  on  the  Ave.  Francisco 
Madero,  with  an  entrance  on  the  Calle  de  Gante  and  one  on 
the  3d  Calle  Bolivar  (the  latter  through  the  Hotel  San  Carlos), 
is  a vast  edifice  (dating  from  the  18th  cent.)  in  the  Renaissance 
style,  erected  by  the  widow  of  the  Marquis  San  Mateo  Val- 
paraiso. It  was  the  one-time  residence  (1821-23)  of  the  first 
Mexican  Emperor  (after  the  War  for  Independence)  Agustin 
de  Iturbide,  and  was  then  known  as  El  Palacio  de  Iturbide. 

In  1855  the  building  was  opened  (by  Anselmo  Zurutuza) 
as  an  hotel.  It  is  a somewhat  gloomy  structure  with  a fine 
central  patio  and  several  smaller  courts.  Thirteen  slen- 
der Doric  columns  and  their  superimposed  arches  are  the 
conspicuous  features  of  the  north  court.  The  Sonora  News 
Company,  an  American  corporation  long  established  in 
Mexico,  and  with  fine  art  rooms,  now  occupies  most  of  the 
lower  floor  of  the  building  in  what  perhaps  at  one  time  was  the 
Emperor's  private  office. 

The  Calle  de  Gante,  a short  but  wide  street  which  trends 
southward  from  the  Avenida  de  Madero , derives  its  name  from 
the  good  Franciscan  Friar , Pedro  de  Gante  (Ghent),  a noble- 
hearted  man  who  devoted  his  life  to  the  uplifting  of  the  in- 
habitants of  New  Spain.  He  founded  the  School  of  San  Fran- 
cisco wherein  every  year  for  more  than  half  a century  upward 
of  a thousand  indigent  children  were  cared  for  and  educated. 
To  these  street  waifs  he  taught  religion,  science,  music,  paint- 
ing and  certain  of  the  humbler  crafts,  and  many  of  the  native 
workmen  to-day  owe  their  inheritance  to  the  indefatigable 
efforts  of  this  zealous  and  self-denying  priest.  He  built  a mag- 
nificent church  (San  Frandsco , comp.  p.  321),  a hospital,  and 
a school,  and  he  made  himself  and  his  co-workers  the  centre 
whence  an  incalculable  influence  for  good  was  radiated.  It  is 
one  of  the  liveliest  streets  in  the  W.  quarter  of  the  city.  The 
Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  the  W.  entrance  to  the  Hotel 


MEXICO  CITY 


Jfi.  Route.  321 


Iturbide  and  a number  of  small  shops  are  located  here.  From 
the  roof  of  any  of  the  buildings  a fine  view  of  the  dome  of  the 
old  Franciscan  Church  may  be  had.  This  ch.  was  once  the 
focus  of  Spanish  ecclesiastical  power  in  the  New  World.  The 
cutting  of  the  street  through  the  convent  grounds  was  in  retali- 
ation for  a revolutionary  movement  planned  (1861)  by  the 
friars  of  the  Order  of  San  Francisco.  It  entailed  the  destruction 
of  a handsome  chapel  dedicated  to  the  Purisima  Concepcion  de 
Maria  Santisima;  on  the  walls  of  this  chapel  (erected  in  1629) 
were  some  fine  paintings  by  Baltazar  de  Echave,  el  Viejo 
(p.  cxlv),  representing  scenes  in  the  life  of  San  Francisco  de 
Asfs.  Prior  to  the  erection  of  the  convent  a narrow  street 
existed  here,  but  it  was  enclosed  by  the  wall  of  the  institution 
early  in  1800.  Many  monks  and  nuns  lie  buried  beneath  the 
street,  and  whenever  workmen  dig  far  below  the  surface,  the 
bones  of  long-defunct  ecclesiastics  are  turned  up.  On  the  site 
of  the  house  No.  4,  there  stood,  in  1655,  a celebrated  structure, 
sometime  the  residence  of  the  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Albu- 
querque, of  Don  Francisco  de  Cordova  and  of  the  renowned 
Alonso  de  Avila.  During  the  incumbency  of  the  21st  Viceroy, 
Francisco  Fernandez  de  la  Cueva  (Duke  of  Albuquerque ),  this 
house  was  the  rendezvous  of  the  wealth  and  fashion  of  the 
Colonial  city. 

The  Church  of  San  Francisco  (PI.  G,  4),  with  the  entrance 
facing  the  avenida  F.  I.  Madero , was  founded  in  1524  by  the 
Franciscan  friars  who  established  the  first  religious  order  in 
New  Spain.  Historically  it  is  the  most  interesting  ch.  in  the 
Republic.  Though  now  but  a mere  shadow  of  its  former 
greatness;  clipped  by  commerce,  officialdom  and  greed;  so 
hemmed  in  by  modern  buildings  as  to  be  almost  invisible 
from  the  street,  it  is  still  a sturdy  — though  sadly  maimed  — 
relic  of  the  glittering  vice-regal  days  which  followed  on  the 
heels  of  the  Conquest.  The  edifice  and  the  conventual  build- 
ings which  once  clustered  near  it  were  begun  with  money 
supplied  by  Hernan  Cortes , and  on  land  given  by  him  — 
land  which  was  the  site  of  the  zoological  garden  of  the  Aztec 
imperial  household.  The  building  materials  were  taken  mostly 
from  the  great  Teocalli  of  Huitzilopochtli,  which  was  demol- 
ished by  the  invaders  in  1523.  For  many  years  after  its  in- 
ception the  ch.  was  the  centre  of  the  Catholic  religion  in  the 
New  World.  Under  the  able  management  of  the  zealous  and 
indefatigable  Fray  Pedro  de  Gante  the  organization  prospered ; 
dependencies  were  established;  convents  and  converts  were 
added,  and  in  time  it  became  the  most  powerful  religious  arm 
of  the  Church  in  the  Crown  Colony.  From  it  sprang  the  first 
Indian  school  and  the  first  theological  seminary.  Here  the 
art  of  painting  was  first  taught  by  Spaniards  in  the  New 
World;  here  the  first  Concilium  Mexicanum  took  place;  here 
Cortes  listened  to  mass,  and  here  his  bones  rested  from  1629  to 


322  Route  I>2. 


MEXICO  CITY 


1794.  A long  line  of  peruked  and  bespangled  viceroys  and 
vice-regal  retainers  worshipped  here  during  three  centuries  of 
Spanish  rule,  and  here,  on  Oct.  27,  1821,  the  first  Te  Deum  was 
sung  for  the  Independence  of  Mexico,  and  for  the  then  popular 
hero,  Agustin  de  Iturbide.  Funeral  sendees  over  Iturbide’s  re- 
mains were  celebrated  here  Oct.  24,  25,  and  26,  1838,  and  the 
body  was  exposed  for  three  days  on  a magnificent  catafalque, 
beneath  the  main  cupola. 

When  finally  completed  (200  years  after  its  inception)  the 
vast  establishment  (dedicated  in  1716)  comprised  the  main 
church,  eleven  chapels  and  nine  dormitories  with  300  cells; 
the  walls  which  enclosed  these  extended  over  two  entire  city 
blocks.  It  embraced  a large  share  of  the  property  which  now 
flanks  the  W.  terminus  of  the  Avenida  de  F.  I.  Madero  (at 
the  N.),  the  Ave.  16  de  Septiembre  (at  the  S.),  the  Colie  de 
Gante  (at  the  E.),  and  the  Calle  de  San  Juan  de  Letran  (at  the 
W.)  where  the  main  entrance  was  located.  It  was  the  largest 
ecclesiastical  establishment  in  Mexico.  This  vast  property 
remained  intact  until  1811,  when  in  an  effort  to  convert  the 
straggling  city  into  a compact  and  regular  one,  streets  and 
lanes  were  cut  through  the  outer  edges  of  the  estate.  The 
interior  walls  of  the  great  cloister  were  adorned  with  superb 
mural  paintings  illustrating  episodes  in  the  life  of  San  Sebas- 
tian de  Aparicio , with  texts  setting  forth  his  virtues.  The 
vast  atrium  and  court  were  paved  with  flag-stones  taken 
from  the  steps  of  the  teocalli  which  “the  heroic  Spaniard’s 
unrelenting  sword”  wrested  from  the  Aztec  pabas.  Some  of 
the  finest  work  of  Baltazar  de  Echave  the  Elder  adorned  the 
convent  walls,  the  upper  floor  of  which  was  richly  decorated 
with  mural  paintings  of  scenes  in  the  life  of  San  Buenaven- 
tura. At  the  head  of  the  great  stairway  which  led  to  the  second 
floor  was  a painting  of  the  Patriarch  San  Jose , valued  at  three 
thousand  pesos  — a large  sum  in  those  days. 

Oddly  enough,  the  first  religious  order  to  establish  itself  in 
Mexico  was  the  first  to  come  under  the  ban  of  a watchful 
Government,  and  to  prove  a potent  factor  in  the  Reform  Laws 
which  resulted  in  the  nationalization  of  Church  property  in 
Mexico.  A plot  against  President  Comonfort  was  discovered 
in  the  Franciscan  monastery  Sept.  15,  1S56,  and  two  days 
later  the  latter  was  suppressed.  In  retaliation  for  the  eccle- 
siastical secession  a street  called  ! ndependencia  (changed  in 
1908  to  Avenida  16  de  Septiembre ) was  cut  through  the  con- 
vent grounds.  Five  months  later  a monster  petition  was  sub- 
mitted to  the  President,  begging  him  to  allow  the  friars  to 
reopen  the  convent.  This  request  was  granted,  with  restric- 
tions. June  12,  1859,  President  Juarez  signed  (in  Vera  Cruz) 
the  famous  Leges  de  Reforma  which  aimed  at  the  sequestra- 
tion and  nationalization  of  all  Church  property.  This  law 
became  effective  in  Mexico  City  Dec  28,  1860,  and  in  Jan., 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  323 


1861 , religious  orders  were  suppressed.  The  vast  property  of  the 
Franciscans  was  sold  and  the  money  obtained  ($317,174.40) 
was  divided  among  orphan  asylums,  hospicios  and  schools. 
For  many  years  devout  Catholics  would  not  walk  the  streets 
cut  through  the  Church  property,  nor  would  any  of  these 
possess  a foot  of  the  sequestrated  land.  In  1869  one  of  the 
largest  chapels  was  secured  by  the  Protestants,  who  opened 
therein  their  first  church  in  Mexico. 

The  Interior,  which  is  230  ft.  long  by  56  ft.  wide,  is 
austerely  plain,  even  majestic  in  its  simplicity,  and  although 
modernized  to  a regrettable  extent  it  is  a good  type  of  a chaste 
Christian  temple  free  from  the  saddening  and  apparently 
insatiable  greed  for  sanguinary  roods,  tinselled  altars  and  the 
bespangled  ornaments  which  mar  so  many  of  the  Mexican 
churches.  It  is  a House  of  God  pervaded  by  clean  and  true 
religious  sentiment,  devoid  of  the  alleged  “ miraculous  ” 
rubbish  which  appeals  to  the  ignorant  only,  where  the  mean 
and  trivial  is  forgotten,  and  where  the  angelic  spirits  of  the 
good  men  who  founded  it  centuries  ago  still  brood  above  it. 
The  main  altar,  which  is  modern,  is  attractive  both  in  motif 
and  decoration.  The  chief  feature  of  the  ch.  is  the  Capilla  de 
la  Escala  Santa  (Chapel  of  the  Holy  Stair)  to  the  r.  of  the 
entrance:  herein  a long  stairway  leads  up  to  a Crucified 
Saviour,  symbolic  of  Calvary. 

“The  largest  of  the  three  domes  is  that  of  the  church 
proper,  90  ft.  above  the  ground  with  a lantern  24  ft.  higher. 
The  two  smaller  domes  belong  to  the  Balvanera  Chapel.  The 
fagade  is  one  of  the  most  charming  things  in  Mexico.  Fac- 
ing the  quiet  little  garden  off  the  busiest  street  in  the  great 
city,  it  makes  a fascinating  architectural  episode;  a fragment 
of  the  old-time  magnificence  that  proclaimed  the  temporal 
power  of  the  great  monastic  centre.  In  general  effect  it  is 
quite  different  from  the  Sagrario  design.  It  is  something 
like  forty  years  later  in  date  than  the  Sagrario,  and  is  one  of  the 
latest  examples  of  the  Churrigueresque  in  the  country.  And 
a strikingly  elegant  example  it  remains,  despite  its  mutilation 
by  the  effacement  of  all  its  sculptural  work  — five  statues 
and  eight  reliefs  — which  were  an  integral  part  of  the  decora- 
tive scheme;  their  loss  weakening  the  ensemble  very  materi- 
ally. The  large  relief  at  the  apex,  devoted  to  the  royal  arms, 
was  obliterated  at  the  period  when  all  decorations  of  the  kind 
were  tabooed.  With  all  the  florid  character  of  the  work,  the 
design  has  a notable  refinement. 

“ It  was  peculiarly  the  fate  of  this  great  monastery,  the  seat 
of  the  most  powerful  arm  of  the  Church  in  New  Spain,  to  pass 
largely  into  Protestant  ownership.  The  main  ch.,  with  the 
adjacent  Balvanera  Chapel,  was  the  source  of  a most  interest- 
ing attempt  to  revive  in  New  Spain  the  most  ancient  form 
of  Christian  worship  in  Spain  itself.  This  is  what  is  known 


324  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Franciscan  Order . 


as  the  Mozarabic  (‘  mixed  with  the  Arabic  ’)  Liturgy,  the 
liturgy  of  the  Christianized  Arabs  in  Spain,  although  it  dates 
far  back  of  the  Arabs  to  the  introduction  of  Christianity  itself, 
and  hence  is  also  more  appropriately  known  as  the  Gothic 
Liturgy.  It  was  superseded  by  the  Roman  Liturgy  of  the  11th 
cent.,  after  strenuous  popular  objection.  But  it  has  never 
passed  wholly  into  disuse  in  Spain,  and  is  still  the  liturgy  for 
three  churches  in  Toledo  — a relic  of  the  efforts  to  bring  about 
its  general  restoration  made  by  the  powerful  Archbishop 
Ximenez  in  1495.  In  1770  the  Missa  Mothica  seu  Mozarabica 
was  published  in  Puebla  under  the  auspices  of  Archbishop 
Lorenzana  of  Mexico  and  Bishop  Fabian  y Fuero  of  Puebla; 
both  were  prelates  of  a strongly  Spanish  national  feeling  and 
they  had  officiated  in  high  positions  in  Toledo  before  coming 
to  Mexico.  Their  desire  was  to  revive  the  ancient  rite  in  Mexico, 
but  all  their  influence  could  not  effect  it.  The  feeling  in  its 
favor,  however,  still  survived  until,  in  1868,  a representative 
of  the  movement  sought  the  aid  of  the  Protestant  Episco- 
palians in  the  United  States,  and  a year  later  ‘ The  Church 
of  Jesus  in  Mexico ; was  organized  with  the  purpose  of  revert- 
ing to  the  original  creed  and  liturgy  of  the  Christians  in 
Spain.  For  a while  the  movement  flourished  and  several 
churches  and  chapels  w’ere  established  in  the  capital  and  else- 
where, with  the  ancient  church  of  the  Franciscans  as  its  cathe- 
dral. But  finally  the  movement  languished,  expiring  in  less 
than  a generation  after  its  birth.  Soon  thereafter  the  ch.  passed 
to  other  hands.’ ’ (Sylvester  Baxter.) 

The  aristocratic  Church  of  San  Felipe  de  Jesus  (see  p.  325) 
flanks  the  building  at  the  N. 


The  Franciscan  Order  (founded  by  Saint  Francis  de  Assisi  in  1208, 
approved  by  Pope  Innocent  III  in  1215  and  confirmed  by  Honorius  III 
in  1223)  was  introduced  into  Mexico  by  12  friars  (sometimes  called  the 
Twelve  Apostles  of  Mexico)  from  the  Franciscan  Province  of  San  Gabriel, 
Spain.  Their  leader  was  the  Superior  of  the  Province,  Fray  Martin  de 
Valencia,  known  as  the  “Father  of  the  Mexican  Church.”  History  notes 
that  he  was  as  zealous  as  the  renowned  Fray  Martin  de  Boil,  “who  with 
his  own  hands  reduced  no  less  than  170,000  Pagan  idols  to  dust.”  Pro- 
minent among  the  missionaries  was  Fray  Toribio  de  Benevente,  an  eminent 
chronicler  and  founder  of  the  church  of  Cuernavaca.  The  Indians  de- 
risively called  him  Motolinia  (poor,  miserable)  “ and  with  accustomed 
humility  he  adopted  it  as  best  befitting  his  deserts.”  Fray  Francisco 
Ximenez,  author  of  the  first  grammar  of  the  Mexican  language,  was 
also  of  the  party.  The  devout  company  sailed  from  San  Lucar  de 
Barrameda,  Jan.  25,  1524,  and  landed  at  San  Juan  de  Ulua  (Vera 
Cruz)  May  23  of  the  same  year.  Thence  they  walked  to  the  capital,  via 
Texcoco,  w'here  they  were  joined  by  Fray  Pedro  de  Ganle,  w’ho  had  been 
there  for  a year  engaged  in  missionary  work.  Weary,  footsore  and  dusty, 
these  thirteen  zealous  men  walked  into  Mexico  City  June  23,  1524,  and 
at  once  began  to  dedicate  their  lives  to  the  uplifting  of  the  inhabitants  of 
the  Newr  World.  The  influence  of  certain  of  them  (notably  Fray  Gante ) 
for  good  was  incalculable:  after  the  lapse  of  four  centuries  it  still  pulses 
through  the  lives  of  the  people,  and  no  one  could  estimate  how*  much  of 
the  intelligence  and  refinement  of  the  inhabitants  pf  to-day  is  traceable 
to  the  indefatigable  efforts  of  this  good  Flemish  friar. 


S.  Felipe  de  Jesus.  MEXICO  CITY  42., Route.  325 

The  Church  of  San  Felipe  de  Jesus,  called  El  Templo 
Expiatorio  de  San  Felipe  de  Jesus  (expiatory  temple  of  St. 
Philip  of  Jesus),  faces  the  Ave.  Madero  (PL  G,  4),  occupies 
the  site  of  two  chapels  ( Tercer  Or  den  and  Nuestra  Senora  de 
Ar amazd)  of  the  old  Convento  de  San  Francisco  (described 
on  p.  321),  and  is  one  of  the  finest  and  most  aristocratic 
churches  of  the  capital.  It  was  begun  in  1886  and  completed 
and  dedicated  Feb.  3,  1897  (the  anniversary  of  the  martyr- 
dom of  its  tutelar  santo),  at  a cost  of  $300,000  (subscribed  by 
states,  cities,  and  individuals  — names  on  stones  in  wall 
within),  but  it  was  found  necessary  to  renovate  it  in  1909. 

The  exterior  is  in  the  severe  Romanesque  style,  chiselled  in 
gray  stone,  with  heavy,  oak  doors  and  elaborate  iron  hinges. 
The  entrance  on  the  right  is  supposed  to  be  for  women,  and 
that  on  the  left  for  men,  but  this  order  is  not  observed.  The 
cruciform  interior,  decorated  in  the  estilo  Bizantino , would  be 
somewhat  gloomy  were  it  not  for  the  preponderance  of  gold 
leaf,  and  the  harmonious  coloring  of  the  many  mural  paintings 
depicting  scenes  in  the  life  of  Christ,  the  Virgin,  and  the 
Apostles.  A beautiful  painting  of  San  Felipe , staggering  be- 
neath the  weight  of  the  cross,  with  pitying  angels  in  the  back- 
ground, shows  above  the  high  altar.  The  altar  itself  is  a little 
shimmering  gem  against  a background  of  stars.  The  altar  at 
the  left  of  the  high  altar  is  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe; 
the  painting  of  the  Virgin,  in  a gold  frame,  is  by  B.  Gallotti . 
The  huge  gilt  candelabra  are  striking  examples  of  the  excellent 
work  done  by  the  native  craftsmen. 

The  little  chapel  at  the  left  of  the  left  entrance,  and  entered 
from  the  outside,  is  richly  decorated  and  glows  with  gold  and 
color.  It  is  a perfect  miniature  church,  a single-aisled,  dainty 
little  conception  bearing  the  same  relation  to  the  parent  that 
a baby  rosebud  does  to  a full  blown  rose.  The  figurine  of  the 
Virgin,  at  the  high  altar,  is  sweet  and  winsome.  The  chapel  is 
dedicated  to  the  Immaculate  Conception;  the  mural  paintings 
are  of  the  same  order  as  those  in  the  main  church. 

Worshippers  bearing  the  emblem  of  the  Sacred  Heart  are 
often  seen  in  this  church,  where  on  certain  occasions  beautiful 
ceremonies  in  memory  of  San  Felipe  are  celebrated.  After  the 
service  the  devotees  proceed  to  the  Cathedral  and  worship  at 
the  baptismal  font  (p.  284)  in  which  the  saint  was  baptized. 
On  July  19  of  each  year  masses  are  sung  in  the  church  (8  to  12) 
for  the  repose  of  the  soul  of  Agustin  de  Iturbide , Mexico’s  first 
emperor.  Every  one  bearing  the  name  Felipe  endeavors  to 
participate  in  the  ceremonies  in  honor  of  the  protomartyr. 

San  Felipe  de  Jesus  (St.  Philip  of  Jesus),  known  as  El  Gloriosisimr 
Mcirtir  del  Japon  (glorious  martyr  of  Japan),  was  born  at  Mexico  City  lr. 
1575.  His  parents,  Alonso  de  las  Casas  and  his  wife  Antonia  Martinez 
were  Spanish.  When  still  a youth  he  went  to  Japan  where,  with  six 
Franciscan  friars,  three  Jesuits  and  17  Japanese  converts  to  Christianity 


326  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY  Casa  de  los  Azulejos. 

he  was  killed  at  Nagasaki,  Feb.  5,  1597  r1  “ Three  of  the  Jesuits  who  sent 
multitudes  to  useless  martyrdom  were  subjected  to  tortures  so  frightful 
that  they  were  forced  to  deny  their  faith  under  the  infliction.”  It  is  said 
that  San  Felipe  endured  his  sufferings  with  such  saintly  fortitude  that 
he  was  later  (Sept.  14.  1627)  canonized  by  a Papal  Bull  of  Pope  Urban 
VIII.  Papal  delegates  from  all  parts  of  the  civilized  world  assembled  at 
Rome  on  this  occasion,  and  splendid  processions  were  held  in  the  mar- 
tyr’s honor.  In  1629  he  was  declared  the  Patron  Saint  of  Mexico  and 
New  Spain.  Prior  to  the  issuance  of  the  Leyes  de  Reforma , which  pro- 
hibited religious  street  processions,  the  anniversary  of  his  martyrdom 
was  one  of  the  most  celebrated  fiestas  of  the  city.  A gorgeous  procession 
was  wont  to  file  through  the  streets  from  the  Franciscan  convent,  at  the 
Calle  de  Gante,  to  tin  Cathedral.  The  first  of  these  processions  w as  held  in 
1629,  and  a large  painting  representing  it  formerly  hung  in  the  chapei 
dedicated  to  San  Felipe  in  the  Cathedral.  Prominent  in  the  picture  was 
the  peruked  and  bespangled  Viceroy  riding  beside  the  santo's  mother. 
According  to  the  church  historian,  this  lady  was  so  overcome  with  joy  on 
the  occasion  that  she  never  recovered  from  the  effect,  and  died  a few 
days  later. 

The  Capuchin  Order  {Or den  de  las  Capuchinas)  of  which  San  Felipe 
was  an  exponent  was  founded  by  Santa  Clara  in  1406,  with  the  aid  of 
Pope  Gregory  XII,  and  it  extended  to  Mexico  in  1665;  at  which  time 
there  came  four  members  of  the  order  from  Toledo. 

The  Casa  de  los  Azulejos  (House  of  Tiles),  one  of  the  hand- 
somest and  most  interesting  manorial  houses  in  Mexico,  is  the 
finest  example  of  the  M udejar  style  of  architecture  — as  ap- 
plied to  a secular  building  — in  the  Republic,  and  is  perhaps 
one  of  the  most  picturesque  colonial  houses  on  the  continent. 
It  faces  the  busy  Avenida  de  F.  I.  Madero  (PL  G,  4)  and  ex- 
tends back,  parallelling  the  Calle  de  la  Condesa,  to  the  Ave. 
Cinco  de  Mayo.  This  part  of  the  building,  of  the  same  design 
as  the  facade,  was  added  in  1906.  The  exterior  is  entirely 
covered  with  blue-and-white  Puebla  tiles  {azulejos)  and  the 
effect  is  singularly  attractive  and  unique.  The  battlemented 
roof,  with  its  rows  of  niches  for  figurines  or  saints,  contrasts 
oddly  with  the  modern  architecture  of  the  neighborhood.  The 
house  was  long  the  home  (from  1891  to  1914)  of  the  celebrated 
Jockey  Club , a relic  of  that  onetime  organization  being  the 
mounted  jockey  etched  on  the  glass  in  the  transom  of  the 
entrance  to  the  patio . 

The  building  is  now  occupied  by  a famous  American  restau- 
rant, Sanborn's,  which  is  at  once  a rendezvous  for  visiting 
travellers  and  a sort  of  social  centre  for  the  best  American  and 
Mexican  elements  in  the  capital. 

The  bright  and  attractive  interior  is  decorated  in  the  Chur - 
rigueresque  and  M udejar  styles;  the  former  expressing  itself  in 
exuberant  carvings  on  the  fine  old  fountain  in  the  patio,  the 
graceful  slender  stone  pillars,  the  upper  balconies,  the  door- 
ways, etc.;  and  the  latter  in  the  polychromatic  tiles  of  the 
grand  stairway  and  other  places.  The  tiled  panels  of  the  stairs 


1 For  an  understanding  of  the  causes  which  led  to  their  extermination 
consult  japan,  an  Interpretation , by  Lafcadio  Hearn  (New  \ork,  1905), 
p.  333  et  seq.,  and  Terry’s  Guide  to  tlie  Japanese  Empire,  p.  668. 


House  of  Tiles . 


MEXICO  CITY  42.  Route.  326a 


(note  those  at  the  r.  and  1.  of  the  door  on  the  first  landing) 
carry  the  armorial  bearings  of  the  several  occupants  of  the 
house  during  the  vice-regal  period;  the  decorations  on  the 
patio  walls,  and  the  glass  roof  above,  are  modern.  The  lamps 
on  the  stairway,  adorned  with  bronze  mountings,  are  Japanese. 
The  fine  old  tombac  (comp.  p.  281)  railing  which  runs  along 
the  upper  corridors  on  three  sides  is  of  Chinese  provenience,  and 
is  similar  to  that  in  the  Cathedral.  The  outstanding  motto  on 
the  armorial  quarterings  in  the  tiled  panels  of  the  stairs,  is 
that  of  Suarez  de  Peredo:  Sola  su  virtud  le  ofende,  fuerza  ajena 
ni  le  toca  ni  le  prende  — honor  is  his  only  concern;  no  outer 
force  can  touch  or  seize  him. 

The  history  of  the  Casa  de  los  Azulejos  is  interesting  in  that 
it  casts  a light  upon  Mexico’s  early  relations  with  Japan  and 
the  Philippines  (and,  by  extension,  explains  the  existence  in 
Mexico  of  .many  valuable  Chinese  and  Japanese  porcelains  in 
private  collections  and  antique  shops).  The  house  is  believed 
to  have  been  built  about  1596,  by  Don  Rodrigo  de  Vivero  y 
Velasco , whose  son,  Rodrigo  de  Vivero  y Aberrucia  was  one  of 
the  early  governors  and  captains  general  of  the  Philippines, 
and  who  interested  himself  in  the  establishment  of  commercial 
relations  between  Asia  and  Mexico.  While  in  Manila  he  suc- 
ceeded in  inducing  the  Japanese  Shogun , Tokugawa  Ieyasu 
(see  Terry’s  Guide  to  the  Japanese  Empire,  p.  cclxxi)  to  open 
the  island  port  of  Uraga  to  Spanish  trade,  and  to  make  it  a 
port  of  call  for  the  galleons  which  plied  between  Manila  and 
Acapulco. 

To  facilitate  the  interchange  of  commodities  Ieyasu  caused 
Will  Adams  (a  Kentish  sailing  master  who  in  1600  became 
teacher  of  mathematics  and  shipbuilding  to  the  Japanese)  to 
fit  out  a goodly  ship  to  inaugurate  the  service.  This  vessel,  the 
San  Buenaventura , left  Japan  Aug.  1st,  1610,  and  beside 
carrying  valuable  gifts  for  the  Viceroy  at  Mexico,  carried  also 
23  Japanese  craftsmen  who  were  to  exchange  their  services  for 
those  of  Spanish  or  Mexican  miners  who  would  teach  the  Japa- 
nese how  to  develop  their  mines.  This  group  reached  Mexico 
late  in  1610  and  was  followed,  in  1614,  by  an  embassy  com- 
posed of  180  Japanese,  who  arrived  at  Acapulco  Jan.  25th. 
History  records  that  on  reaching  Mexico  they  were  housed  in 
the  building  destined  later  to  be  the  House  of  Tiles.  Also  that 
they  were  the  forerunners  of  the  rich  trade  which  Mexico  car- 
ried on  during  many  years  with  the  opulent  East. 

Because  of  his  activity  for  Mexico’s  welfare,  the  King  of 
Spain  conferred  upon  Don  Rodrigo  the  title  of  Count  of  the 
Valley  of  Orizaba.  His  marriage  followed  soon  thereafter. 
In  due  time  his  son,  Luis  de  Vivero,  developed  such  extrava- 
gant tastes,  and  such  a distaste  for  work,  that  his  father  applied 
to  him  a current  Mexican  phrase  somewhat  similar  to  the 
English  expression:  “He  will  never  set  the  river  on  fire.” 


3266  Route . 1$.  MEXICO  CITY  Santa  Brigida. 

“My  son,”  said  Don  Rodrigo,  on  one  occasion,  “you  will 
never  build  a house  of  tiles.”  But  Doji  Luis  did.  Stung  by 
his  father’s  prophecy,  he  applied  himself  diligently  to  work, 
married  an  estimable  lady,  became  owner  of  the  house  in  ques- 
tion, and  later  rebuilt  it  and  covered  it  with  tiles. 

This  house  had  been  acquired  by  Don  Diego  Suarez  de 
Peredo,  a descendant  of  Dona  Catalina  Suarez , the  first  wife  of 
Reman  Cortes.  The  last  member  of  the  Mexican  aristocracy 
who  bore  this  title  was  Don  Antonio  Suarez  de  Peredo  Hurtado 
de  Mendoza  y Paredes , 10th  Court  Chamberlain  to  the  Em- 
press Carlota,  during  the  reign  of  Maximilian.  After  the  fall 
of  the  Empire,  the  Casa  de  los  Azulejos  became  the  property 
of  the  Iturbe  family.  A number  of  famous  Mexicans  have 
lived  in  it.  It  is  known  to  almost  every  Mexican  because  of  its 
association  with  the  political  turmoil  consequent  to  the  so- 
called  revolution  of  the  Acordada,  in  1828.  On  Dec.  4th,  of 
that  year,  Sergeant  Manuel  Palacios  entered  the'  House  of 
Tiles  just  as  Count  Don  Andres  Diego  Suarez  de  Peredo  was 
descending  the  stair,  and  he  there  stabbed  him  to  death;  later 
he  was  executed  (publicly  shot)  in  the  adjacent  Plazuela  de 
Guardiola. 

The  flanking  Calle  de  la  Condesa  (named  after  the  Condesa 
del  Valle  de  Orizaba)  is  often  referred  to  by  Mexicans  because 
of  a whimsical  happening  therein  during  the  vice-regal  days. 
It  is  sc  narrow  that  two  carriages  cannot  pass.  One  da}T  two 
grandees  drove  into  the  street,  from  opposing  directions,  and 
met  about  the  middle.  The  pride  of  neither  would  permit  him 
to  back  out  first,  so  there  they  sat,  for  three  days  and  nights  to 
the  immense  amusement  of  the  proletariat,  glaring  at  one 
another  and  suggesting  what  neither  wished  to  do.  When  the 
matter  reached  the  ears  of  the  viceroy  he  ordered  them  both 
to  back  out  simultaneously,  and  leave  the  street  by  the  way 
thev  had  come. 

The  Church  of  Santa  Brigida  (St.  Bridget),  completed 
Dec.  21,  1744,  for  the  Bridge  tine  nuns,  a small  and  a newly 
decorated  church  with  two  entrances  from  the  Calle  San  Juan 
de  Letran  (St.  John  Lateran),  is  outwardly  plain  to  the  verge 
of  austerity,  but  it  is  one  of  the  most  fashionable  churches  in 
the  city.  Facing  the  N.  entrance  is  a grotto  with  a silver- 
plated  reja  enclosing  the  santa  to  whom  the  ch.  is  dedicated. 
Opposite  the  S.  entrance  is  a large  allegorical  painting,  the 
work  of  G.  Carrasco,  in  1904.  The  stained-glass  windows  are 
attractive,  as  is  also  the  motif  and  decoration  of  the  high 
altar,  at  the  S.  end  of  the  small  single  nave.  The  dim  old 
painting  immediately  over  the  S.  entrance  is  unsigned  and 
undated,  but  its  age  is  apparent.  A requiem  for  the  repose 
of  the  soul  of  the  Emperor  Maximilian  is  sung  here  on  the 
anniversary  of  his  execution.  The  dates  of  other  special  func- 
tions are  placarded  on  the  doors  or  near  by. 


National  Theatre . MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  326 c 


El  Teatro  Nacional  (the  National  Theatre),  an  imposing 
composite  structure  (of  reinforced  concrete  inside  a marble 
shell,  on  a concrete  foundation)  facing  the  Ave.  Juarez  at  the 
E.  end  of  the  Alameda  (PL  G,  4),  is  perhaps  the  finest  building 
of  its  kind  on  the  continent.  It  is  after  the  plans  of  the  Italian 
architect  Adam  Boari , who  designed  the  Central  Post  Office 
diagonally  across  the  street  ( Calle  del  Teatro  Nacional)  from 
it.  It  was  begun  in  1900,  and  up  to  1922  more  than  12  millions 
of  pesos  had  been  spent  on  it.  It  is  estimated  that  an  additional 
ten  millions  will  be  needed  to  put  it  in  the  perfect  condition 
planned  for  it.  The  style  of  architecture  is  referred  to  as 
Sanitario  (sanitary)  because  advanced  methods  of  hospital 
construction,  with  rounded  corners  at  entering  angles, 
elimination  of  dirt-catching  moldings,  etc.,  have  been  followed 
throughout  the  building.  In  reality  it  is  a strikingly  harmoni- 
ous blend  of  various  styles,  the  dominating  note  of  the  exterior, 
aside  from  the  classic  statuary,  being  a charming  ensemble  of 
several  indigenous  Indian  orders  — Maya , from  Yucatan; 
Mixtec,  from  the  Mitla  Ruins,  etc.  — as  expressed  in  the 
statue  of  Cuauhtemoc,  on  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma. 

The  first  impression  is  that  of  a commanding  mass  of  shim- 
mering marble  gleaming  extraordinarily  white  and  pure  in  the 
brilliant  sunlight  of  the  high  Mexican  tableland.  Part  of  this 
marble  came  from  Carrara  (Italy),  and  part  from  the  locally 
celebrated  Buena  Vista  quarries,  in  the  Mex.  state  of  Guer- 
rero. The  colored  marble  is  from  the  Tenango  quarry,  in 
Morelos.  Spanish  and  French  bronze,  American  stained  glass, 
advanced  construction  in  German  stage  machinery,  fine 
cabinet  woods  from  the  Mexican  forests,  and  skilled  Mexican 
workmanship  have  combined  to  form  one  of  the  finest  struc- 
tures in  the  Mexican  capital,  and  one  of  the  most  pleasing  in 
the  entire  Republic. 

The  best  bronzes  are  the  work  of  the  (late)  Spanish  sculptor, 
Agu'stin  Querol . Four  of  these,  two  representing  music,  and 
two  tragedy,  each  in  the  form  of  a Pegasus,  which  rose  from 
the  roof  above  the  stage,  were  taken  hence  to  pedestals  at  the 
four  corners  of  the  park  in  the  Plaza  Mayor , which  they  now 
adorn.  Since  the  theatre  was  begun  it  has  sunk  nearly  4 ft. 
into  the  unstable  subsoil  of  the  valley,  and  this  uneven  quality 
materially  impairs  its  appearance.  Thousands  of  barrels  of 
fluid  concrete  have  been  pumped  under  it,  to  form  a firmer 
table  for  it  to  rest  upon,  but  this  has  not  stayed  the  sinking. 

The  main  entrance  is  from  the  Ave.  Judrez.  The  marble 
walk  which  leads  to  it  is  laid  over  a series  of  superimposed 
pavements  which  can  be  removed  in  layers,  so  that  if  the  main 
structure  continues  to  sink,  the  marble  surface  can  be  kept 
level  with  it.  The  squatting  figures,  near  the  entrance,  uphold- 
ing banners  announcing  the  functions  within  (grand  opera 
only),  are  replicas  of  the  Indio  Triste,  referred  to  at  p.  306. 


326d  Route  42, 


MEXICO  CITY 


Teatro  National 


The  larger  figures,  at  the  left  side  of  the  building,  also  support- 
ing banners,  are  copies  of  the  Indios  Verdes  (green  Indians) 
which  guard  the  entrance  to  the  Calzada  de  la  Vega  (p.  350). 

The  twin  groups  above  this,  at  the  r.  and  1.,  represent  In- 
spiration (la  inspiration ) and  Music  (la  musica),  The  group 
(repousse  work  — repujado)  which  surmounts  the  graceful 
cupola,  or  remote  (pinnacle)  represents  the  national  emblem 
(the  eagle,  nopal  cactus,  etc.);  the  surrounding  figures  (the 
work  of  the  Hungarian  sculptor  Marotte)  suggest  Comedy, 
Tragedy,  the  Drama,  and  Lyric  Drama. 

At  the  right  and  left  of  the  grand  pillared  entrance  (entrada 
principal ) are  lateral,  or  minor  entrances,  with  beautiful 
bronze  doors:  above  the  one  at  the  r.  is  a sculptured  head  of 
Aztec  design  and  called  El  Caballero  Aguila  (gentleman  eagle): 
that  at  the  left  is  El  Caballero  Tigre  (gentleman  tiger).  Both 
are  prominent  figures  in  the  ancient  Indian  sculptures.  The 
charming  fountains  which  face  these  entrances  display  (at  the 
r.)  lovely  marble  figures  (by  Querol)  of  Glory  (la  gloria ),  and 
([,)  Love  (el  amor),  A similar  one  adorns  the  space  between  the 
Teatro  and  the  Alameda. 

The  translucent  ovals  above  the  lateral  r.  and  1.  entrances 
will  carry  lights  behind  them,  and  signs  announcing  the  opera 
staged  within.  The  handsome  sculptured  marble  group  (the 
work  of  the  Italian  sculptor  Leonardo  Bistolfi)  in  the  central 
lunette  (luneto  principal)  typifies  Harmony  (la  armonia); 
a beautiful  nude  woman  forms  the  central  figure,  around 
which  are  grouped  others  that  are  supposed  to  express  all  the 
human  passions.  The  semicircle  of  angelitos  (little  angels) 
above  the  lunette  typify  the  orchestra. 

The  attractive  interior  (seating  capacity  2,000)  at  first 
glimpse  appears  small  compared  to  the  great  size  of  the  struc- 
ture, but  it  has  been  intentionally  limited,  the  distance  from 
the  stage  to  the  rear  wall  of  the  amphitheatre  being:  the  exact 
limit  of  the  range  of  the  average  human  voice.  The  plan  is 
that  every  person  in  the  theatre  may  hear  distinctly. 

The  harmonious  group  on  the  plafond  of  the  sala  represents 
Olympia,  Apollo,  and  the  Muse.  The  elaborately  decorated 
lobby  contains  a winter  garden,  cafes,  smoking  rooms,  etc. 
There  is  a special  retiring  room  for  the  president  of  the  Re- 
public, and  special  boxes  above.  A subway  drive  for  auto- 
mobiles runs  beneath  the  foyer,  and  the  operatic  stars  are 
taken  to  a private  elevator  which  carries  them  up  to  the  door 
of  richly  furnished  retiring  and  dressing  rooms.  The  theatre 
is  lined  with  beautifully  tinted  Mexican  mahogany  and  other 
rare  and  choice  woods.  The  complicated  machinery  (from 
Berlin,  cost  $197,000)  which  operates  the  stage  (726  sqr. 
meters)  mechanism  is  moved  by  electric  and  hydraulic  power. 
Every  foot  of  the  stage  floor  is  movable,  and  can  be  lowered, 
raised  or  slid  backward  or  forward  at  will.  With  the  machinery 


The  Alameda . MEXICO  CITY  1$.  Route.  327 

It  is  a marvel  of  complicated  simplicity.  Curtains  are  raised 
or  lowered  on  hollow  steel  reels. 

Three  balconies  rise  in  tiers  above  a series  of  boxes,  or 
palcos;  the  presidential  box  ( palco ) is  at  the  central  curve. 

The  unique  and  beautiful  Curtain  ( cortina ) is.  of  colored 
glass  in  an  iron  frame,  was  made  by  Tiffany  (cost  $47,000 
American  gold),  weighs  22  metric  tons  (1,000  kilograms,  or 
2,204.6  pounds),  and  was  designed  by  the  celebrated  (Mexican 
artist,  painter,  architect)  Dr.  Atl  ( Gerardo  Murillo).  The 
most  conspicuous  thing  in  the  extraordinarily  ornate  interior, 
it  represents  Mexico’s  twin  volcanos  Popocatepetl  (r.)  and  (1.) 
Iztaccihuatl , and  trees,  cacti,  flowers  and  whatnot.  By  an 
ingenious  system  of  powerful  lights,  the  volcanos  are  shown  as 
they  appear  at  dawn,  twilight,  night,  noon,  and  under  varying 
atmospheric  conditions.  The  effect  is  singularly  beguiling. 
Special  permits  for  viewing  the  curtain  when  illuminated  may 
be  obtained  from  the  architectural  ingeniero  in  charge,  Mr. 
A.  Munoz  G. 

The  Alameda,  a handsome,  sub-tropical  park  extending 
southward  from  the  Teatro  Nacional  (PI.  G,  4),  was  so  called 
because  it  was  first  planted  with  poplar-trees,  or  alamos.  The 
fine  Ave.  Juarez  parallels  it  on  the  S.  and  that  of  Miguel 
Hidalgo  y Costilla  (fromerly  the  Ave.  de  los  H ombres  Ilustres) 
on  the  N.;  it  is  delimned  on  the  W.  by  the  short  Calle 
de  San  Diego , which  in  turn  is  flanked  by  the  old  church  of  the 
same  name.  The  park  is  shaped  like  a huge  parallelogram  712 
ft.  wide  by  1,483  ft.  long,  with  attractive  bronze  fountains, 
several  music  kiosks,  an  aviary,  some  noble  eucalyptus,  poplar, 
cypress  and  pepper-trees,  and  a wealth  of  palms  and  perenni- 
ally blooming  flowers  — the  latter  arranged  in  parterres  to 
which  care  is  devoted.  The  aviary,  or  pajarera,  contains  a 
rather  limited  representation  of  the  hundreds  of  tropical  birds 
for  which  Mexico  is  noted.  The  picturesque  groups  of  loungers 
who  take  the  eternal  rest-cure  on  the  park  benches  are  not 
without  interest  to  the  traveller. 

At  the  time  of  the  Conquest  the  east  half  of  the  Alameda  was  the  site  of 
a huge  Aztec  tianguiz,  or  market.  With  the  advent  of  the  Dominicans, 
with  their  baneful  Inquisition,  the  west  half  was  converted  into  a spot 
then  known  as  the  Plaza  del  Quemadero  (the  burning-place),  because  of  a 
large  stone  platform  where  the  Inquisition’s  victims  were  burned  or 
strangled.  History  has  it  that  this  quemadero  occupied  the  exact  spot 
now  covered  by  the  pajarera.  During  his  incumbency  in  office,  the  45th 
Viceroy,  Carlos  Francisco  d,e  Croix,  conceived  the  idea  of  converting  a 
portion  of  the  site  into  a pleasure-ground.  Later,  and  by  the  initiative 
of  the  52d  Viceroy,  Juan  Vicente  de  Guemes  Pacheco  de  Padilla , it  was 
cleaned  and  made  into  a sort  of  fashionable  promenade,  a portion  of  it 
being  reserved  for  a children’s  play-ground.  Despite  efforts  to  keep  it  up 
it  remained  in  a somewhat  unkempt  state  until  1872,  when  sustained 
efforts  to  beautify  it  were  made.  — The  striking  Benito  Juarez  Monument, 
which  faces  the  Ave.  Juarez  midway  of  the  Alemeda,  dates  from  1910,  and 
was  erected  to  commemorate  the  hundredth  anniversary  of  Mexican 
independence. 


328  Route  1$.  MEXICO  CITY  Post-Office . 

There  is  scarcely  a day  in  the  year  that  the  park  is  not 
bathed  in  sunshine,  and  the  beautiful  music,  the  handsome 
toilettes  of  the  charming  Spanish  and  Mexican  women,  the 
constant  expression  of  the  Southern  love  of  color,  and  the 
picturesque  costumes  of  certain  of  the  lower  classes  render  it 
a very  attractive  spot  — particularly  on  Sundays  and  popular 
feast-days.  Trim  nurses  ( criadas ),  wheeling  baby-carriages 
or  guarding  their  toddling  charges,  frequent  the  shaded  by- 
ways, and  the  “ tired  squad  ” passes  the  livelong  day  on  the 
sunny  benches  which  flank  the  avenues.  On  certain  dias  de 
fiesta  rows  of  booths  are  established  along  the  N.  side,  and  then 
native  curios  and  Indian  handiwork  can  be  bought  at  moderate 
prices.  The  handsome  pergola  at  the  E.  end  of  the  Alameda 
dates  from  1909.  The  park  is  the  favorite  early-morning  resort 
of  students  who  pace  beneath  the  giant  trees  and  wrestle 
with  the  idiosyncracies  of  English  grammar. 

The  Commercial  Museum,  on  the  Ave . Juarez  opposite  the 
Regis  Hotel  (PL  F.  4),  open  daily,  free,  from  9 to  1,  is  a sort  of 
permanent  exposition  of  natural  products.  Many  of  the  curious 
plants,  fibres,  agricultural,  industrial  and  manufactured 
products  of  the  Republic  are  attractively  displaj^ed,  and 
special  attention  is  given  the  visiting  merchant  or  manu- 
facturer. Very  interesting  are  certain  products  of  the  applied 
arts.  Every  foreigner  who  entertains  the  mistaken  notion 
that  the  Mexicans  make  only  cheap  pottery  and  wickerware, 
should  visit  this  exposition.  Many  of  the  articles  are  as  beauti- 
ful as  those  of  any  country.  Minerals  such  as  opals  and  other 
semi-precious  objects  are  on  display,  along  with  handsome 
carved  leather,  beautiful  onyx  pieces,  tortoise-shell  wares, 
etc.  The  various  products  of  the  Mexican  forests  are  particu- 
larly noteworthy.  — The  colored  glass  picture  above  the  stair 
landing  is  copied  from  Rubens 9 famous  Descent  from  the  Cross. 

The  Central  Post-Office,  or  Casa  de  Correos  (called  also  Pala- 
cio  de  Correos) , at  the  corner  of  the  Calles  del  Tedtro  Nacional 
and  la  Tacuba  (PI.  G,  4),  is  the  finest  example  of  secular 
architecture  of  its  kind  in  the  Republic.  The  corner-stone 
was  laid  by  President  Porfirio  Diaz , on  the  site  of  the  old 
Escuela  de  Comercio,  Sept.  14,  1902,  and  the  structure  (which 
cost  $2,921,009.94)  was  completed  and  occupied  in  Feb.,  1907. 
It  is  a splendid  monument  to  the  constructive  ability  of 
Mexican  artisans,  and  to  the  creative  talent  of  an  Italian  archi- 
tect, Adamo  Boari  — another  example  of  whose  excellent 
work  is  the  adjacent  Tedtro  Nacional.  The  Palacio  de  Correos , 
which  is  supposedly  fire-proof,  is  in  the  Antique  Spanish,  or 
Plateresque 1 style,  “that  brilliant  expression  of  the  Spanish 
spirit  in  the  time  of  the  Catholic  Kings  and  Charles  V.” 


1 The  estilo  plateresco  is  so  called  because  of  the  resemblance  of  its 
delicate  ornamentation  to  silver-plate  and  silversmiths’  work. 


Correo. 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  329 


The  pictorial  Gothic  — of  which  the  early  plateresco  is 
merely  a metamorphosis  enriched  by  Southern  exuberance 
and  virility  — shows  in  the  wealth  of  bosses,  finials,  crockets 
and  geometrical  tracery  with  which  the  exterior  is  profusely 
embellished.  Charmingly  blended  with  the  austere  but  aspir- 
ing architectural  expression  of  Gaul  and  Brittany  are  the 
delicate  touches,  the  rich  flowering  of  the  Alhambraic  and  the 
Mudejar  styles.  In  dignity  of  conception,  harmony  of  orna- 
mentation and  refinement  of  workmanship,  it  is  noteworthy, 
as  it  is  likewise  for  its  logical  and  consecutive  treatment, 
for  the  classical  and  felicitous  unity  of  the  different  orders, 
and  for  its  lightness,  grace  and  chaste  beauty.  The  designs 
of  the  decorative  stonework  were  chiselled  into  form  after  the 
cut  stones  were  placed  in  their  final  positions : the  equal  skill 
of  the  small  army  of  artisans  who  executed  the  medallion- 
reliefs,  the  shields,  griffins,  garlands,  mouldings  and  minor 
enrichments  is  surprising.  The  various  details  of  the  massive 
structure  — which  is  perhaps  on  a higher  architectural  scale 
than  any  other  secular  building  in  Mexico  — are  astonishingly 
perfect.  Standing  as  it  does  on  a spot  which  will  perhaps  ere 
long  be  the  geographical  and  commercial  centre  of  the  modern 
city,  it  can  scarcely  fail  to  become  symbolic  of  the  prescience 
of  the  great  man  who  laid  not  only  the  corner-stone  of  this 
edifice  but  also  that  of  Mexican  progress  and  enlightenment. 

The  bronze  fitments  are  Italian  in  design  and  workmanship. 
The  splendid  great  central  doors  and  the  entrance  are  spe- 
cially noteworthy.  The  interior  has  been  made  unusually 
attractive  by  the  liberal  use  of  beautiful  Mexican  onyx  from 
the  Etta  quarries.  The  polychrome  flags  adorning  the  interior 
represent  the  56  countries  of  the  Postal  Union. 

The  private  offices  of  the  postmaster-general  ( adminisLrador  general ) 
and  his  subordinates  are  on  the  upper  floors.  The  Information  Bureau 
is  at  the  N.-E.  corner  of  the  lower,  or  ground  floor:  the  Receiving  Boxes 
( buzones ) are  directly  opposite.  Letters  for  the  City  and  Suburbs 
should  be  dropped  in  the  slit  marked  “ Distrito  Federal ' ’ ; those  for  the 
Republic  in  the  “ Interior  ” ; for  the  United  States,  “ Estados  U nidos  ” ; 
for  Europe  or  elsewhere,  “Exterior.”  Above  the  different  windows  are 
the  signs:  Lista  (advertised  letters);  Poste  Restante  (General  Delivery); 
Certificacion  (registration)  ; Giros  Postales  (postal  money-orders);  Cor- 
respondence (letters) ; Bultos  Postales  (packages) ; Aduana  (packages 
received  through  the  custom-house);  Carteros  (postmen,  or  carriers); 
Caja  (cashier) ; Timbres  (stamps). 

Printed  lists  of  Advertised  Letters  (consult  also  the  newspapers) 
are  to  be  seen  in  the  long,  narrow  frames  beneath  the  windows.  Take 
the  number  and  date  of  the  list  and  apply  for  the  letter  at  the  window 
marked  Lista.  General  Delivery  letters  are  usually  held  at  the  correo 
30  days  before  being  returned  to  the  point  of  origin,  in  calling  for  letters 
one  can  facilitate  matters  by  presenting  a visiting-card  ( tarjeta  de 
visita ) with  his  name  thereon,  as  English  is  not  always  spoken  by  the 
employees.  Letters  which  come  marked  Poste  Restante  are  not  advertised. 

A striking  example  of  the  modern  creative  faculty,  the  su- 
perb Palacio  de  Correos  is  in  sharp  contrast  to  the  crumbling  old 


330  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY  Colegio  de  Mineria. 


School  of  Mines , or  M ineria,  next  door  on  the  east.  A century 
ago  this  structure  — the  masterpiece  of  the  great  Tolsa  — was 
considered  the  finest  secular  edifice  in  the  Mexican  capital. 

The  College  of  Mines  ( Colegio  de  Mineria ),  known  also 
as  the  Escuela  de  Inqenieros,  or  School  of  Engineers,  stands 
immediately  to  the  east  of  the  Central  Post-Office  and  is  one 
of  the  most  striking  edifices  in  the  city.  It  was  erected  in 
1797-1S13  (in  the  old  Aztec  precinct  of  Nilpantongo)  after 
plans  drawn  by  the  celebrated  architect,  Manuel  Tolsa.  The 
structure  began  to  crack  and  sink  soon  after  its  completion, 
and  many  have  been  the  ideas  formulated  for  its  preservation. 
The  first  of  these  was  put  into  practice  (in  1830)  by  the  engi- 
neer, Antonio  Villard,  who  spent  897,000  with  no  appreciable 
results.  Repairs  on  the  huge  structure  are  almost  constantly 
under  way,  but  the  impression  one  gains  is  that  it  is  tottering 
to  its  fall.  The  bases  of  some  of  the  columns  and  pilasters 
have  sunk  considerably  below  the  street  level,  and  certain  por- 
tions of  the  outer  walls  are  badly  cracked  and  out  of  plumb. 
By  viewing  a section  of  the  building  from  across  the  patio  of 
the  Post-Office,  or  running  the  eye  along  the  wall  flanking  the 
Calle  de  la  Condesa,  one  can  get  a good  idea  of  its  uneven 
character. 

The  Tribunal  de  Mineria,  which  was  to  be  housed  in  the 
building  when  completed,  was  founded  May  4,  1777,  by  Don 
Velasco  de  Leon  and  Lucas  de  Lasaga,  whose  aim  was  to  es- 
tablish a school  of  mines  that  would  stimulate  mining.  Maxi- 
milian endeavored  to  convert  the  building  into  a National 
Palace.  The  present  school  possesses  a fine  library,  some 
cabinets  of  geological  and  mineral  specimens,  and  is  equipped 
with  modern  appliances.  The  facade  has  a frontage  of  312 
feet  and  is  severely  classical.  The  main  entrance  is  adorned 
with  fine  Doric  and  Ionic  columns  and  a balustrade;  a line 
of  marble  vases  carved  after  Greek  designs  extends  along 
the  roof.  Just  within  the  main  entrance  are  several  huge  me- 
teorites — the  fragments  of  a colossal  meteorite  called  the 
Chupaderos  (combined  weight  nearly  25  tons)  which  was 
found,  in  1581,  near  the  present  town  of  Jimenez,  and  brought 
to  the  City  of  Mexico  in  1893.  The  placards  refer  to  their 
history,  etc. 

The  interior  of  the  building  is  attractive;  it  is  open  all  day, 
free  to  visitors.  The  main  patio  (86J  ft.  square)  is  surrounded 
by  fine  cloisters  and  arches  supported  by  20  bulky  pilasters 
with  half  Doric  columns  (below),  and  22  pairs  of  graceful 
Ionic  columns  above.  There  are  five  smaller  patios,  or  courts. 
These,  and  the  splendid  stairways  and  galleries,  are  finely 
proportioned.  The  richly  decorated  chapel  contains  two  ad- 
mirable ceiling  frescoes  (by  R.  Jimeno ) representing  the 
Glory  of  Mary  and  the  Apparition  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe. 

The  edifice  is  said  to  have  cost  81,597,435,  aside  from  the 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  331 


various  amounts  spent  in  an  effort  to  keep  it  from  tumbling 
down.  The  average  traveller  will  therefore  be  inclined  to  think 
that  Tolsa’s  real  genius  lay  in  his  ability  to  spend  so  much 
money  on  so  unpretentious  a structure.1 

Directly  across  the  street  from  the  School  of  Mines,  set 
back  some  distance  from  the  sidewalk,  is  the  large,  handsome, 
new 

Edicifio  de  Comunicaciones  y Obras  Publicas  (Communica- 
tions and  Public  Works),  a government  building  wherein  is 
housed  the  Gov’t  Telegraph  Office.  The  elaborately  sculp- 
tured facade  with  its  griffins  and  lanterns,  its  splendidly 
massive  iron-work  doors  and  its  myriad  minor  details,  il- 
lustrates the  excellent  work  which  the  local  craftsmen  can  do. 
The  fine  bronze  railing  which  follows  the  winding  stair,  the 
striking  allegorical  painting  (depicting  Peace  Confounding 
War),  on  the  ceiling  above  the  3d  landing  (worth  looking  at), 
the  beautiful  marble  work,  the  fine  friezes,  the  rich  profusion 
of  the  paintings  in  some  of  the  rooms,  and  their  noble  propor- 
tions, are  all  due  to  Mexican  workmen. 

The  most  attractive  room  in  the  building  (which  dates  from 
1911)  is  the  harmoniously  decorated  Sala  de  Reception 
(reception  room),  on  the  3d  floor  (permit  to  see  it  easily  ob- 
tainable from  the  Director  of  Public  Works,  whose  office  is  in 
the  building).  Conspicuous  among  the  mural  decorations  of 
this  sala,  are  those  representing  Art,  Science,  Liberty,  History, 
Labor,  etc.  The  big  central  painting,  overhead,  entitled 
Edilizia,  is  symbolic  of  the  Roman  JEdilis,  or  magistrate 
whose  special  task,  in  ancient  Rome,  was  the  care  of  the 
edifices  and  those  communicating  roads  which  were  all  ex- 
pected to  terminate  in  the  Romish  capital.  The  corner  panels 
of  the  picture  represent  Riqueza  (Riches),  Lex  (Law),  Fuerza 
(Force),  and  Ciencia  (Science).  The  room  is  furnished  in 
cream  and  gold  — a beautiful  effect.  The  finishing  of  the  lower 
part  of  the  walls  is  of  fine  Puebla  onyx. 

The  Church  of  Santa  Clara  (in  the  4a  Calle  de  Tacuba,  PI. 
G,  4),  a cruciform  structure  now  much  reduced,  was  founded  in 
1579  and  completed  and  dedicated  Oct.  22,  1621.  Its  partial 
destruction  by  fire  in  1755  necessitated  reconstruction,  and 
the  portion  of  the  building  which  now  remains,  practically 
dates  from  1756.  It  was  celebrated  in  times  gone  by  for  a fine 

1 Manuel  Tolsa  was  born  Dec.  24,  1757,  in  Enguera,  in  the  Kingdoir 
of  Valencia,  Spain.  He  studied  art  at  the  Academy  of  San  Carlos,  in 
Valencia.  Accompanied  by  the  painter,  Rafael  Ximeno , he  sailed  thence 
for  Mexico  in  1791,  to  take  charge  of  the  class  in  sculpture  at  the  Mexican 
Academia  de  San  Carlos.  He  was  Sculptor  to  the  King  of  Spain ; Minister 
of  the  Supreme  Commission  of  Commerce,  Finance  and  Mines;  Director 
General  of  the  Royal  Academy  of  San  Carlos,  at  Mexico  City,  and  author 
of  the  Equestrian  Statue  of  Charles  IV  and  of  several  other  works.  He 
made  the  colossal  figures  of  the  Three  Virtues  for  the  clock-tower  of  the 
Cathedral  at  Mex.  City,  and  the  principal  figures  of  the  Tabernacle  of 
the  high  altar  in  the  Puebla  Cathedral.  He  died  Dec.  24,  1816. 


332  Route  1&. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Churches. 


altar  piece  by  Pedro  Ramirez , but  this  has  disappeared.  The 
tawdry  exterior  is  less  showy  than  the  interior,  which  is  newly 
decorated,  with  stone  floors,  German  roods  and  a number  of 
figures  in  high  relief.  The  S stained-glass  windows  of  the 
cimhorio , and  the  4 wheel  windows  of  the  nave  are  of  Euro- 
pean and  Mexican  origin.  The  painting  of  the  Holy  Trinity, 
beneath  the  organ  loft,  is  perhaps  the  work  of  one  of  Ibarra's 
pupils.  The  rather  well  executed  paintings  in  the  spandrels 
of  the  dome,  and  in  the  apse,  are  modern,  by  local  painters. 
The  picture  of  the  veil  of  Santa  Veronica,  which  was  long 
worshipped  in  this  church,  is  now  in  the  ch.  of  the  Colegio  de 
las  Ninas , described  at  p.346.  The  convent  which  once  stood 
adjacent  to  the  ch.  and  which  was  founded  by  the  Monjas 
Clarisas  has  been  converted  to  commercial  uses. 

The  Church  of  San  Lorenzo  (St.  Lawrence),  in  the  la  Calle 
de  San  Lorenzo  (PI.  G,  3),  is  a landmark  in  the  north-central 
quarter  of  the  city,  and  was  erected  in  1650  with  a sum  of 
money  given  by  Juan  Fernando  Riofro  to  the  Augustinian  trial's. 
Though  somewhat  dilapidated,  and  with  a tawdry  interior, 
the  church  is  the  chosen  place  of  worship  for  many  of  the  best 
people  of  the  capital.  Services  in  English  for  English-speak- 
ing Catholics  are  held  on  certain  days.  The  single  nave  is 
flanked  by  seven  minor  altars.  The  central  figure  of  the  high 
altar  is  a Cristo , with  a St.  George  and  the  Dragon  on  the 
left  and  a St.  Patrick  on  the  right.  The  structure  is  a maze 
of  gold-leaf  borne  by  two  marbleized  pillars  (Corinthian) 
with  gilt  bases  and  capitals.  The  central  figure  of  the  super- 
structure is  San  Lorenzo  holding  a gridiron.  San  Lorenzo  was  a 
native  of  Huesca,  Spain.  (He  was  broiled  by  Valentianus,  Aug. 
1 2,  261 , on  a slow  fire.)  A similar  figure  stands  above  the  main 
entrance.  To  the  1.  of  the  main  altar  is  a figure,  of  heroic  size, 
of  the  Mater  Dolorosa,  facing  an  opposite  altar  of  which  the 
central  figure  is  a Christ  Crucified.  The  picture  in  the  chapel 
to  the  r.  of  the  main  entrance  is  a copy  of  that  of  the  Virgen 
de  Guadalupe  (p.  401).  The  sacristy  contains  a few  pictures  of 
no  artistic  value.  The  ten  stained-glass  windows  of  the  clere- 
story are  modern. 

The  smaller  of  the  two  entrances  leads  into  the  sacristy, 
above  the  door  of  which  is  a quaint  old  chapel-bell.  The  great 
carved  wood  door,  studded  with  copper  nails  and  knobs,  is  a 
good  specimen  of  old  Spanish  workmanship.  The  two  tall  and 
massive  Corinthian  columns  which  flank  the  main  entrance,  the 
carved  stone  figures  in  the  niches,  and  the  tile-covered  lantern 
of  the  dome  impart  an  imposing  aspect  to  the  edifice. 

The  Church  of  Nuestra  Sehora  de  la  Concepcion  faces  the 
Plazuela  of  the  same  name  (PI.  G,  4),  dates  from  about  1541, 
and  was  erected  by  members  of  the  Franciscan  Order.  Ren- 
dered dingy  by  time  and  repeatedly  cracked  by  earthquakes, 
it  is  now  but  a tawdry  reminder  of  its  one-time  magnificence. 


Churches. 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  333 


The  interior  decorations  are  profuse,  with  a preponderance  of 
gilt.  The  many  polychrome  figures  of  saints  are  of  Spanish 
origin.  The  richly  carved  entrance  (one  is  shut  out  by  a street 
wall),  the  fine  old  gargoyles  and  the  gigantic  bulk  of  the  ch., 
with  its  ruinous  tower,  are  attractive  examples  of  early  Colonial 
architecture.  The  Catalonian  belfry  which  surmounts  the 
E.  wall  is  modern.  The  adjoining  convent  building  was  once 
the  most  fashionable  in  Mexico,  its  one-time  inmates  having 
been  recruited  from  the  noblest  families  of  the  capital.  When 
the  estate  was  secularized  by  the  Reform  Laws  it  was  found 
to  be  worth  a million  and  a half  pesos.  The  neighborhood  is  not 
distinguished  for  cleanliness. 

The  Church  of  Santa  Maria  de  los  Angeles  (Holy  'Mary  of 
the  Angels)  faces  the  Plaza  de  los  Angeles  (PI.  G,  2)  and  stands 
on  the  site  of  the  chapel  erected  in  1600  to  house  an  alleged 
miraculous  image  of  the  Immaculate  Conception,  called  La 
Virgen  de  los  Angeles,  hence  the  name.  It  dominates  a tawdry 
neighborhood  and  is  noteworthy  chiefly  for  its  hodge-podge 
of  architectural  details.  The  image  is  the  object  of  a special 
cult  by  certain  classes,  and  pilgrimages  are  frequent.  Ac- 
cording to  the  ch.  traditions  the  Virgin  appeared  at  a period 
(1580)  when  the  capital  was  suffering  from  a great  inundation 
caused  by  the  overflow  from  Lake  Texcoco.  The  image, 
which  was  found  floating  on  the  waves,  came  to  life  when 
picked  up,  pacified  the  terror-stricken  people,  calmed  the 
waters,  and  has  been  worshipped  to  the  present  day.  A prodi- 
gality of  ornament  — a usual  characteristic  of  such  shrines  — 
marks  the  interior  of  the  ch.  The  pictures  in  the  spandrels  of 
the  arches  are  painted  (by  local  workmen)  to  represent  mosaic 
work.  The  chiselled  Composite  pillars  and  pilasters  have  been 
creditably  restored  by  artisans  of  the  locality.  The  dome  is 
badly  cracked.  The  odd-shaped  towers  overlook  a pretty  little 
garden  ( de  los  Angeles)  with  some  parterres  of  flowers.  On 
the  whole  the  ch.  will  scarcely  repay  a visit. 

The  Jardin  Morelos  (also  called  J.  San  Juan  de  Dios),  on 
the  N.  side  of  the  Alameda  (PI.  F,  4)  and  between  the  churches 
of  Santa  Vera  Cruz  and  San  Juan  de  Dios,  is  noteworthy  only 
for  a defaced  marble  statue  (the  work  of  the  Italian  sculptor 
Piatti)  of  the  revolutionary  patriot  Jose  Maria  Morelos.  The 
statue  was  chiselled  in  1865  by  the  order  of  the  Emperor  Maxi- 
milian, and  for  a twelvemonth  it  stood  in  the  Plazuela  de 
Guardiola,  whence  it  was  removed  in  1867  to  its  present  site. 
In  transit,  the  four  bronze  inscriptions  which  adorned  the 
sides  of  the  shaft  were  lost. 

The  Church  of  San  Juan  de  Dios,  facing  the  W.  end  of 
the  Jardin  Morelos  (PI.  F,  4),  dates  from  1766  and  occupies  the 
site  of  a chapel  erected  in  1582  to  Nuestra  Senora  de  los  De - 
semparados  (the  forsaken  ones).  It  has  a striking  recessed 
portal  and  a richly  carved  Baroque  fagade.  The  side  wall  is 


334  Route  ]$. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Churches. 


finished  in  a sort  of  Moresque  pattern-work  — a relic  of  the 
earliest  Colonial  times.  A figure  of  San  Antonio  de  Padua 
was  formerly  a conspicuous  object  in  the  group  of  santos  which 
still  adorn  the  niches  in  the  facade,  but  during  the  riots  of 
1857  it  was  toppled  from  its  elevated  position  and  cast  into 
a neighboring  ditch.  There  it  remained  covered  with  mud  and 
slime  for  many  years,  until  some  workmen,  who  were  digging 
a trench  near  the  Alameda,  unearthed  it  and  at  once  spread 
the  report  that  a miraculous  santo  had  been  found.  It  was 
restored  to  the  church  with  great  ceremony  and  its  cult  soon 
became  widespread.  Each  inch  of  the  clothing  of  the  figure  is 
now  covered  with  milagros,  or  votive  offerings,  of  base  metal 
covered  with  gold  and  silver  plate;  the  Indians  always  bring 
these  in  lots  of  thirteen,  since  San  Antonio  de  Padua  is  said 
to  have  died  June  13  (1531). 

The  Church  of  Santa  Vera  Cruz  (PI.  F,  4),  on  the  N.  side 
of  the  Alameda  and  at  the  E.  end  of  the  small  Jardin  Morelos 
(which  it  faces) , is  one  of  the  oldest  (and  least  interesting)  of 
the  city  churches.  Since  its  foundation  (by  Hernan  Cortes , in 
1527)  it  has  suffered  many  renovations.  The  earthquake  of 
1907  so  damaged  the  S.  wall  that  a large  portion  of  it  had  to  be 
replaced.  In  1578  the  ch.  was  elevated  to  an  Iglesia  Parroquial, 
and  on  Oct.  14,  1730,  it  was  dedicated  with  much  pomp.  Its 
historical  interest  lies  chiefly  in  the  fact  that  here  Cortes 
founded  (1527)  the  Archicofradia  de  la  Cruz , an  organization 
composed  of  noblemen  whose  aim  was  to  comfort,  in  their  last 
hours,  and  bury  criminals  condemned  to  execution.  A 
Papal  Bull  of  Jan.  13, 1573,  conceded  to  this  privileged  brother- 
hood the  name  of  Santisima  Cristo  de  San  Marcelo , and  a 
hundred  days’  indulgence  to  the  faithful  who  would  visit 
the  sacrosanct  image  to  which  the  archicofradia  was  dedicated. 
This  image,  which  is  highly  venerated,  was  (according  to  tra- 
dition) brought  to  Mexico  by  the  Conquistadores.  It  was  always 
covered  with  seven  veils  and  was  (and  is)  known  as  El  Sehor 
de  las  Siete  Velas. 

The  side  entrance  (facing  the  Ave.  de  los  Hombres  Ilustres) 
of  the  church  (which  is  150  ft.  long  by  30  ft.  wide)  is  a good 
example  of  carved  stone.  The  old  dome  is  picturesque. 

The  Church  of  San  Diego  (St.  James),  facing  the  W.  end 
of  the  Alameda,  on  the  Calle  de  San  Diego  (PI.  F,  4),  occupies 
the  site  of  the  old  Indian  tianguiz  of  San  Hipolito.  It  was 
erected  in  1593  by  the  Frailes  Descalzos  de  San  Francisco 
(barefoot  friars  of  the  Franciscan  Order  — often  spoken  of 
as  the  Dieguinos,  or  those  of  the  Order  of  St.  James)  and  was 
several  times  renovated  after  its  dedication  in  1621.  The 
present  structure  dates  from  about  1800.  The  long,  narrow 
atrium  which  flanks  the  Mexican  Herald  building  is  planted 
with  a few  flowers.  On  the  r.  and  1.  of  the  ch.  entrance  are 
two  curious  old  tile  insets  with  crosses  and  Biblical  inscrip- 


Churches. 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  335 


tions.  A solitary  tower  stands  to  the  1.  of  the  entrance,  above 
which,  in  low  relief,  is  an  equilateral  triangle,  and  the  Latin 
inscription : Sacrosancta  Lateranensis  ecclesia  sub  Benedicto 

XIV. 

The  interior  is  stuffy  and  over-decorated,  with  many  altars. 
On  the  first  one  to  the  r.,  as  we  enter,  is  a carved  and  highly 
polished  wood  figure  of  a black  monk.  The  paintings  in  the 
main  body  of  the  ch.  are  uninteresting.  The  Camilla  de  Dolores , 
at  the  r.,  contains  fifteen  large  paintings  by  Francisco  Antonio 
Vallejo;  notable  among  them  the  Exposition  of  the  Body 
of  Christ  and  the  Last  Supper  both  high  above  the  entrance; 
the  Oration  in  the  Garden  (high  to  the  1.),  a I irgin  of  Gua- 
dalupe — Refugium  Peccatorum  — to  the  1.  of  the  main  altar, 
and  a Cristo  — Refugium  Agonizantium  — to  the  r.  The  8 huge 
square  paintings  on  the  r.  and  1.  walls  represent  scenes  from 
Calvary.  In  gilded  frames  on  the  r.  and  1.  of  the  altar  are 
bundles  containing  relics  of  saints.  An  inscription  above  the 
entrance  refers  to  the  dedication  of  the  chapel  on  Sept.  8, 
1788,  and  to  its  blessing  by  Bishop  Sacedon  in  1852.  The 
paintings  are  all  good  examples  of  Vallejo's  work. 

The  Church  of  San  Hipolito  (St.  Hippolytus),  which  stands 
at  the  corner  of  the  Calles  de  San  Hipolito  and  El  Puente  de 
Alvarado , was  begun  in  1525  (by  the  municipality),  completed 
in  1546,  and  was  dedicated  to  San  Hipolito  because  it  was  on 
the  day  of  the  martyrdom  of  this  saint  that  the  Spaniards 
besieging  Tenochtitlan  gained  their  final  victory  over  the 
Aztecs.  Though  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  historic  the 
city  churches,  it  is  now  shorn  of  all  its  tangible  glory.  W hen 
completed  it  was  far  from  the  centre  of  the  Aztec  city,  on 
the  Tlacopan,  or  Tacuba  causeway  — one  of  the  three  great 
causeways  which  connected  Tenochtitlan  with  the  mainland. 
It  marked  the  spot  where  600  Spaniards  were  killed  or  maimed 
on  the  memorable  retreat  of  the  Noche  Triste.  For  many 
years  after  its  erection  and  on  the  anniversary  of  the  triumph 
of  the  Castilian  arms,  the  coat-of-arms  of  the  Spanish  city 
were  conveyed  at  the  head  of  a splendid  procession  ( paseo  del 
pendon)  to  the  church,  where  a special  mass  was  said  tor 
those  who  fell  in  the  great  battles  for  possession  of  the  Aztec 

metropolis.  , . , , 

Immediately  after  the  capture  of  the  Aztec  stronghold, 
Juan  Garrido,  one  of  the  Conquistador  es , undertook  to  recover 
the  bodies  of  his  slaughtered  countrymen  and  to  erect  a chapel 
wherein  they  could  be  buried  with  religious  rites.  This  chapel 
stood  near  the  entrance  to  the  Calle  de  San  Diego,  and  was 
long  known  as  the  Capilla  de  J uan  Garrido;  also  as  the  C apilia 
de  los  Mar  tires.  When  the  church  of  San  Hipolito  was  com- 
pleted the  bodies  were  buried  therein  and  the  church  was  called 
S.  H.  de  los  Mdrtires  (of  the  martyrs)  — for  thus  the  Spaniards 
who  fell  in  the  struggle  to  convert  the  Aztecs  from  idol  worship 


336  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Churches. 


to  the  Catholic  faith  were  considered.  The  present  building 
dates  from  1602,  at  which  time  the  primitive  edifice  was  prac- 
tically reconstructed.  It  was  badly  damaged  by  an  earthquake 
in  1754  and  was  repaired  four  years  later.  When  the  church 
was  redecorated  in  1892  many  quaint  epitaphs  were  painted 
over.  Built  in  the  wall  (out  of  sight)  near  the  altar  mayor  is 
(it  is  said)  an  iron  chest  containing  relics  of  the  Conquerors, 
a small  arm-bone  of  St.  Hippolytus,  bits  of  old  money  and  other 
curios  of  the  time  when  the  primitive  church  was  built. 

The  interior  decorations  are  in  doubtful  taste.  The  sacristy 
contains  nothing  worth  a fee.  The  first  picture  on  the  right  as 
we  enter  the  church  is  a copy  (by  Tiburcio  Sanchez ) of  the 
Virgin  of  Lourdes.  The  next  in  line  (the  work  of  T.  Mos- 
quedo ) depicts  various  episodes  in  the  apparition  of  the  Virgin 
of  Guadalupe  to  Juan  Diego.  In  the  right  transept  is  a copy 
(by  Baron  de  Cadi)  of  one  of  Murillo’s  Immaculate  Virgins. 
The  picture  in  the  left  transept  ( T . Sanchez)  is  a copy  of  the 
original  Sacred  Heart  of  Jesus.  The  copy  of  Murillo’s  Sagrada 
Familia  bears  no  name.  The  painting  nearest  the  entrance 
( T . Sanchez)  is  that  of  the  Virgen  del  Carmen:  a gruesome 
work  representing  the  Virgin,  with  a child  in  her  arms,  raising 
souls  from  a flaming  purgatory.  All  the  pictures  are  cramped 
and  awkward  copies,  poor  in  attitudes,  expression  and  work- 
manship. 

The  time-stained  facade  and  the  quaint  corner-piece  at  the 
outer  edge  of  the  atrium  are  the  most  interesting  objects 
about  the  ch.  The  latter  ornaments  the  angle  of  the  wall  and 
is  illustrative  of  a celebrated  Aztec  legend  referring  to  the 
Conquest. 

The  central  figure,  in  low  relief,  is  of  a terrified  Indian  clasped  in  the 
embrace  of  a gigantic  eagle.  According  to  the  tradition  this  Indian  was 
selected  by  the  gods  to  advise  the  Emperor  Montezuma  Xocoyotzin  that 
unless  he  forthwith  forsook  his  reprehensible  mode  of  living,  his  empire 
would  fall  into  the  hands  of  strangers.  The  eagle  conducted  the  Indian  to 
the  mansion  of  the  gods  to  receive  the  divine  message;  he  was  then 
brought  safely  back  to  earth.  Montezuma  failed  to  profit  bs7  the  celestial 
warning  and  the  Spaniards  took  possession  of  his  kingdom. 


Below  the  figure  is  a cluster  of  ancient  Mexican  arms. 
The  inscription  on  the  elliptical  medallion  above  reads : 

“So  great  was  the  slaughter  of  the  Spaniards  by  the  Aztecs  in  this 
place  on  the  night  of  July  1,  1520,  named  for  this  reason  the  Noche  Triste, 
or  dismal  night,  that,  after  having,  in  the  following  year,  re-entered  the 
city  triumphantly,  the  conquerors  resolved  to  build  here  a chapel  to  be 
called  the  Capilta  de  los  Martires  ; and  which  should  be  dedicated  to 
San  II  i-polito  because  the  capture  of  the  city  occurred  upon  that  Saint’s 
dav.” 

Had  not  the  Government  intervened  to  save  this  curious  relic  of  the 
Conquest  it  would  have  been  destroyed  when  the  w^all  enclosing  the  atrium 
was  demolished  and  reconstructed  in  1906.  The  garden  in  the  atrium 
dates  from  1907. 

Before  the  Conquest,  the  Aztec  PeltacaUi  (prison  of  slaves  reserved  for 
sacrifice)  occupied  the  site  of  the  church.  It  wras  fortified  by  the  Indians 


San  Fernando. 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route . 337 


during  the  siege,  and  with  the  capture  of  that  section  of  the  city,  Al- 
varado used  the  structure  as  a sort  of  temporary  headquarters. 

The  Church  of  San  Fernando,  in  the  Colonia  Guerrero, 
at  the  N.  end  of  the  plazuela  of  the  same  name,  is  now  but  a 
simulacrum  of  what  was  formerly  one  of  the  richest  and  finest 
of  the  city  churches.  The  tattered  remnants  of  what  were 
once  superb  mural  paintings  testify  to  the  one-time  magni- 
ficence of  its  interior.  The  ch.  was  begun  Oct.  11,  1735,  and 
was  completed  and  dedicated  April  20,  1755.  Its  builders 
were  the  Friars  of  the  Order  of  San  Fernando,  founded  in  Mex. 
City  in  1693  by  Fray  Antonio  M argil  de  Jesus.  It  was  once  a 
dependency  of  the  Franciscan  apostolic  college,  established 
by  royal  order  in  1733.  The  old  pink  and  brown  fagade  is  an 
interesting  example  of  the  early  Baroque.  Above  the  main 
entrance  is  an  inscription  which  advises  that  “the  ch.  of  San 
Fernando  is  united  to  that  of  St.  John  Lateran  at  Rome  and 
participates  in  its  indulgences.*  * The  doors  are  carved  in  con- 
ventional designs.  The  ch.  was  once  celebrated  for  its  magni- 
ficent Churrigueresque  altars  and  retablos,  all  of  which  have 
disappeared.  The  richly  carved  pulpit  is  an  old  example  of 
Queretaro  marquetry.  There  are  some  indifferent  paintings 
in  the  spandrels  of  the  cimborio,  and  a number  of  weather- 
beaten paintings  of  immense  size  on  the  walls  of  the  transepts, 
and  of  the  chapels  which  lead  therefrom.  The  carved  balcony 
— a sort  of  Moorish  celosia  — above  the  entrance  to  the  W. 
transept  is  interesting.  The  lateral  chapels  are  neglected  and 
the  whole  ch.  carries  an  air  of  tawdry  decorum.  It  was  so 
badly  shattered  by  the  earthquake  of  June  19,  1858,  that  its 
entire  renovation  was  necessary. 

Facing  the  ch.  is  the  Plazuela  de  Guerrero  with  a hand- 
some bronze  statue  of  this  revolutionary  hero.  Commemora- 
tive ceremonies  are  held  here  Feb.  14,  each  year,  to  honor  the 
memory  of  this  man,  General  Don  Vicente  Guerrero , who  was 
shot  at  Cuilapan , Oaxaca , in  1831. 

The  Pante6n  de  San  Fernando  (PI.  F,  3),  known  also  as 
that  of  Los  Hombres  Ilustres  (illustrious  men),  adjoins  the 
Church  of  San  Fernando  and  is  open  all  day  free  (small  fee 
customary)  to  visitors.  The  entrance  is  E.  of  the  ch.  proper, 
through  the  central  door  of  the  three  iron  grills  which  run  the 
length  of  the  low  stone  wall.  Of  the  1200  or  more  bodies  in- 
terred here  many  are  deposited  in  niches  in  the  walls,  after 
the  style  of  the  Campo  Santo  at  Genoa.  It  has  been  closed  to 
public  burials  since  1872.  The  most  noteworthy  mausoleum 
in  this  pantheon  is  that  of  the  ex-President  Benito  Pablo  J uarez 
(see  p.  338),  erected  July  18,  1880.  The  sarcophagus,  sur- 
mounted by  a recumbent  figure  of  the  Indian  patriot,  whose 
head  is  lying  in  the  lap  of  a weeping  woman  emblematic  of 
the  nation,  is  the  work  of  J . and  M.  Islas.  The  dead  patriot, 
celebrated  for  all  time  as  the  author  of  the  famous  Leyes  de 


338  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Benito  Juarez. 


Reforma,  is  sculptured  as  asleep  in  his  robe.  The  effect  of 
the  group  is  striking  and  the  workmanship  is  suggestive  of  the 
latent  possibilities  of  this  branch  of  art  in  Mexico  — one  that 
has  long  been  neglected  and  for  which  neither  Mexicans  nor 
Spaniards  were  ever  celebrated.  A Doric  portico  borne  by  16 
massive  columns  encloses  the  sarcophagus. 

Benito  Pablo  (Benedict  Paul)  Juarez,  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
men  in  the  history  of  modern  Mexico,  was  bom  (March  21,  1806)  in  the 
small  and  picturesque  Indian  pueblo  of  San  Pablo  Guelatao  (State  of 
Oaxaca),  about  40  M.  north-west  of  Oaxaca  City,  upon  the  shore  of  a 
mountain  lake,  which,  from  the  transparency  of  its  waters,  — and  from  the 
circumstance  that  swimmers  are  apt  to  be  drawn  under  in  a mysterious 
way, — was  known  as  Laguna  encantada  — enchanted  lagoon.  His  parents 
were  pure-bred  Zapoteca  Indians;  a race  characterized  by  many  sterling 
qualities.  (They  are  the  mountaineers  of  Oaxaca  and  by  their  vigor, 
boldness  and  warlike  qualities  have  maintained  a quasi-independence.) 
The  home  of  Juarez  was  a rude  adobe  hut,  with  thatched  roof;  similar 
to  many  native  homes  of  rural  Mexico.  Until  he  was  12  years  of  age  he 
knew  no  other  tongue  than  the  Zapotec  dialect.  He  learned  the  Spanish, 
rudimentary  mathematics,  and  the  tenets  of  the  Catholic  religion,  from 
a book-binder  in  Oaxaca,  whose  employ  he  entered  in  1818.  From  1821, 
at  which  age  he  entered  a clerical  school,  he  was  permitted  to  study 
mediaeval  Latin,  canon  law,  dogmatic  theology,  philosophy  and  the  re- 
stricted curriculum  of  religious  schools.  He  received  the  degree  of  Bache- 
lor of  Laws  (1832)  in  the  University  of  Oaxaca,  and  was  admitted  to  the 
bar  when  28  years  old.  He  held  the  office  of  Civil  and  Revenue  Judge  of 
Oaxaca  City  for  two  years,  acted  as  Secretary  of  the  Governor  of  the 
State,  was  imprisoned  for  liberal  ideas,  and  later  served  as  one  of  a 
triumvirate  into  whose  hands  the  executive  power  of  the  State  was 
placed.  He  became  associated  with  Porfirio  Diaz  (a  native  of  Oaxaca), 
who  became  “ his  pupil,  the  inheritor  of  his  political  ideas  and  the  future 
wearer  of  his  mantle.” 

In  1846  he  was  made  a deputy  to  Congress  from  Oaxaca,  and  later  was 
elected  Governor  of  the  State,  whose  affairs  he  administered  with  prud- 
ence and  economy.  During  his  incumbency  of  office,  he  prepared  the 
first  code  of  criminal  laws  published  in  Mexico.  At  the  instance  of  the 
Dictator  Antonio  Lopez  de  Santa  Anna,  he  was  arrested  (May,  1853),  and 
after  spending  some  time  in  the  prisons  of  Puebla,  Jalapa  and  San  Juan 
de  Ulua  (T'era  Cruz),  he  was  exiled  and  went  to  New  Orleans  where  he 
became  a fruit  peddler.  He  returned  to  Mexico  in  1855,  associated  him- 
self with  men  of  his  political  beliefs,  and  in  time  forced  his  way  to  the 
presidency  One  of  the  greatest  acts  of  his  career  was  the  drafting  and 
promulgation  (July  12,  1859)  of  the  celebrated  Reform  Laws  ( Leyes  de 
Reforma)  which  provided  for  the  suppression  of  religious  orders  and  the 
nationalization  of  ecclesiastical  property. 

July  17,  1872  (prior  to  which  time  he  had  never  knowm  a day’s  sick- 
ness), he  was  stricken  with  heart  disease,  and  died  the  following  night. 
His  bodv  was  taken  to  the  National  Palace,  where  it  lay  in  state  for 
several  days  and  was  visited  by  thousands  of  mourning  people.  It  was 
borne  through  the  streets  on  the  22d  followed  by  an  immense  concourse, 
and  was  laid  to  rest  (July  22)  in  the  Panteon  de  San  Fernando.  After 
his  death  Congress  declared  Juarez  a llbenemerito  de  la  patria  en  grado 
heroica ,”  and  his  name  was  ordered  to  be  inscribed  in  letters  of  gold  m 
the  chamber  of  the  National  Congress.  ‘‘In  vain  may  we  search  history 
for  a more  wonderful  example  of  human  greatness  and  success  — a poor 
ignorant  Indian  bov,  emerging  from  the  wild  mountains  of  Oaxaca  to 
link  his  name  to  some  of  the  most  radical  reforms  the  American  continent 
has  ever  witnessed.”  Many  Juarez  relics  are  preserved  in  the  National 
Museum,  described  at  p.  298. 

Facing  the  Juarez  tomb  is  the  handsome  marble  monument 
and  bust  of  General  Ignacio  Zaragoza  and  the  date  Mayo 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  339 


5 de  1862.  Four  bronze  eagles  adorn  the  corners  of  the  sar- 
cophagus. The  white  marble  monument  to  the  memory  of 
Ignacio  Comonfort , President  of  Mexico  in  1855,  bears  on  the  E. 
end  the  inscription  “ sacrificed  in  the  Mill  of  Soria,  Nov.  13, 
1863.”  On  the  N.  side  is  a sculptured  bust  in  low  relief  sur- 
mounted by  a bronze  eagle  and  emblems  of  war.  On  the  S. 
side  is  the  inscription:  “He  lived  for  his  country  and  died 
because  of  it.”  The  inscription  on  the  W.  advises  that  he  was 
born  in  Puebla,  March  12,  1812.  Many  flowers  are  crowded 
within  the  narrow  railing. 

Hard  by  the  Juarez  tomb  is  that  of  the  noted  General 
Vicente  Guerrero,  who  lies  here  with  his  wife,  Dona  Dolores 
Guerrero  de  Riva  Palacio. 

To  the  1.  of  the  entrance  to  the  panteon,  in  a small  court,  is 
an  interesting  red  sandstone  sarcophagus  with  M.  M.  in  large 
metal  letters  on  the  end.  There  is  a significant  absence  of 
name  and  date  on  this  tomb,  which  covers  the  remains  of 
General  Miguel  Miramon , who  was  executed  with  the  Em- 
peror Maximilian  (June  19,  1867)  at  The  Hill  of  the  Bells  in 
Queretaro.  In  the  cemetery  proper  is  the  grave  of  General 
T.  Mejia , who  was  also  shot  with  the  Emperor  and  Miramon. 

To  the  E.  of  the  panteon,  in  course  of  construction,  is  what 
will  someday  be  a splendid  new  Panteon  N acional,  to  which  the 
bodies  of  the  most  celebrated  Mexicans  now  in  San  Fernando 
will  be  moved. 

For  historical  and  biographical  notes  concerning  the  illus- 
trious dead  buried  here  consult:  El  Panteon  de  San  Fernando 
y el  futuro  Panteon  N acional,  by  Jesus  Galindo  y Villa, 
Mexico,  1908  (published  under  the  auspices  of  the  National 
Museum). 

The  Cades  del  Puente  de  Alvarado,  named  for  one  of  the 

most  celebrated  and  intrepid  captains  of  Hernan  Cortes,  are 
among  the  most  historically  interesting  of  the  city  thorough- 
fares. The  three  streets  (first,  second  and  third)  lead  from, 
and  prolong,  the  Avenida  de  los  Hombres  llustres,  where  it  ends 
at  the  west  corner  of  the  Alameda,  past  the  old  church  of  San 
Hipolito,  the  converging  Calle  de  Buena  Vista,  and  merge 
their  identity  into  the  Avenida  de  San  Cosme,  of  which  they 
are  the  eastern  extension.  At  the  time  of  the  Conquest  they 
formed  part  of  the  Calzada  de  Tlacopan,  or  Tacuba,  one  of 
the  three  great  causeways  connecting  the  old  island  city  of 
Tenochtitlan  with  the  mainland.  Along  this  causeway  the  har- 
assed Spaniards  retreated  in  dreadful  rout  on  the  celebrated 
Noche  Triste.  For  three  centuries  after  the  Conquest  a bridge, 
known  as  the  Puente  de  Alvarado,  spanned  the  wide  acequia 
(ditch),  called  by  the  Indians  Tolteca  acalopan,  over  which  the 
courageous  captain  made  his  famoussaZfo,  or  leap.  This  bridge 
stood  in  the  suburb  of  Mazatziutamalco,  which  spot,  accord- 
ing to  the  historians,  was  immediately  in  front  of  the  San 


340  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Palacio  Bazaine. 


Hipolito  Church.  A commemorative  tablet  which  once  marked 
the  spot  has  disappeared.  The  bridge  was  not  removed  until 
1871,  at  which  time  the  acequia  was  filled  with  debris. 

A house  of  considerable  historical  interest  stands  on  the  3a  Calle 
del  Puente  de  Alvarado  ; a huge,  gray  stone  structure  (PI.  E.  3)  with  a 
curved  and  recessed  front.  It  was  erected  early  in  1800,  by  Manuel 
Tolsa , and  was  long  known  as  La  Casa  de  la  PiniUos , from  the  woman 
who  owned  it.  It  is  variously  referred  to  as  the  Casa  de  Media  Luna 
(half  moon),  El  Palacio  de  Buena  Vista  and  Palacio  Bazaine.  It  is  now 
used  as  a cigarette  factory.  General  Antonio  Lopez  de  Santa  Anna,  the 
Dictator,  once  lived  there,  and  he  decorated  the  interior  in  gorgeous 
style.  During  the  Second  Empire,  Marshal  Bazaine.  the  one-time 
favorite  of  Napoleon  III  and  of  Maximilian,  dwelt  therein.  In  1S65 
(June  26)  Bazaine  wedded  the  beautiful  Mexican  Senorita  de  Pena  The 
Emperor  Maximilian  and  the  Empress  Carlota  were  present  at  the  cere- 
mony, which  was  conducted  with  great  pomp  in  the  Palacio  Nacional. 
In  the  evening,  the  Marshal  received  a letter  from  the  Emperor  express- 
ing gratitude  for  his  military  services,  and  presenting  him  the  Palacio  de 
Buena  Vista  with  its  splendid  furniture  and  large  garden.  A proviso 
arranged  for  the  house  to  revert  to  the  Mexican  Government  should  the 
Marshal  return  to  Europe,  and  the  Gov’t  obligated  itself  to  pay  him 
therefor  3100,000.  After  Bazaine  withdrew  with  his  troops,  the  house 
remained  unoccupied  for  many  years,  when  it  passed  again  into  private 
ownership . 

Prolonging  the  Calles  del  Puente  de  Alvarado  westward  are 
the  broad  Cades  de  la  Ribera  de  San  Cosme  (St.  Cosmus), 
traversing  what  was  formerly  one  of  the  healthiest  and 
wealthiest  suburbs  of  the  vice-regal  city.  Before  the  Con- 
quest, they  also  formed  a part  of  the  great  Tlacopan  Cause- 
way, and  along  their  entire  length,  to  a terminal  fountain  in 
the  Calle  de  Mariscala , there  went  a primitive  Aztec  aqueduct 
which  brought  potable  water  to  Tenochtitldnvik  Tlacopan , from 
the  Big  Spring  at  Chapultepec.  It  was  partly  destroyed  during 
the  retreat  of  the  Dismal  Night , and  one  of  the  first  orders 
issued  by  Cortes  after  the  downfall  of  the  city  was  that  it  should 
be  repaired.  When  the  Spaniards  finally  completed  it  (in  1745) 
more  than  two  centuries  had  elapsed ; it  was  a huge  structure  of 
900  arches,  each  IS  ft.  high  and  24  ft.  wide,  and  it  carried  a con- 
tinuous stream  of  water  2 ft.  in  diameter  through  the  open  con- 
duit. The  old  fountain  at  Mariscala  faced  the  site  of  the  new 
post-office,  and  was  demolished  in  1852;  along  with  it  went 
all  the  arches  on  the  Puente  de  Alvarado.  The  San  Cosme  sec- 
tion was  removed  in  lS71,and  the  remainder,  near  Tlaxpana^ 
in  1889.  The  old  Garita  (octroi  station)  of  San  Cosme,  oppo- 
site the  Tivoli  (PI.  E,  3),  is  now  used  as  a barrack.  Immediatelj' 
opposite  this  Cuartel  is  the 

Tivoli  del  Eliseo,  a sort  of  pleasure-park  where  picnics 
and  minor  celebrations  are  held.  The  Americans  usually 
hold  their  Fourth  of  July  meetings  here.  The  park  is  shut  in 
by  high  walls. 

The  Parochial  Church  of  San  Cosme  (PI.  D,  3)  occupies  the 
site  of  the  Aztec  T emple  of  Mazatzintamalco,  which  flanked 
the  Tlacopan  causeway  and  which  was  stormed  and  cap- 


MEXICO  CITY 


J+2.  Route.  341 


' tured  by  Alvarado  and  his  men  in  1521.  As  it  was  then  some 
distance  from  the  Aztec  city  of  Tenochtitldn , the  Spaniards 
fortified  the  temple  and  used  it  as  a vantage-point  whence 
; they  could  make  assaults  on  the  Indian  strongholds.  After 
the  Conquest  the  temple  was  demolished  and  a sort  of  hos- 
pital was  erected  (1527)  for  wayfaring  Indians. 

The  church  (entrance  from  the  Calle  de  Industria)  was 
begun  in  1581,  but  was  not  completed  until  1675.  It  was  dedi- 
cated to  Santa  Maria  de  la  Consolacion,  an  alleged  miracul- 
ous picture  of  whom  occupied  a place  in  the  main  altar. 
The  allegorical  painting  near  this  altar  is  the  work  of  Jose 
: Alztbar  (1762).  The  large  canvas,  Christ  on  the  Cross , is 
without  merit.  The  interior  is  time-stained  and  tawdry. 

! The  carved  fagade  and  crumbling  tower  are  hoary  with  age. 
Lieutenant  U.  S.  Grant  mounted  a howitzer  in  this  tower 
during  the  American  invasion  (1847)  and  bombarded  the 

I'  neighborhood.  The  old  tile-covered  dome  of  the  church  is  a 
landmark  in  the  vicinity. 

The  Colonia  de  Santa  Maria,  in  the  north-west  section  of 
the  city  (PL  E,  2),  is  reached  by  the  Santa  Maria  tram-cars 
which  leave  the  Plaza  Mayor  at  frequent  intervals. 

The  Plaza  (called  also  Alameda  de  Santa  Maria  de  la 
Ribera ) is  an  attractive,  flower-crowned  spot  with  clean  walks, 
playing  fountains  and  many  tall  eucalyptus  trees.  The  painted 
iron  benches  in  the  park  are  generally  well  filled  with  the  tired 
element.  In  the  centre  of  the  plaza  is  a small  socle  whence  there 
rises  a stone  pedestal  surmounted  by  a life-size  bronze  figure 
of  Miguel  Hidalgo  y Costilla.  On  the  base  of  the  statue  is  the 
inscription  “ Hidalgo , 1810.”  Overlooking  the  plaza  from  the 
west  side  is  the  fine  new 

Institute  Geologico  Nacional,  a splendid  structure  of  gray 
stone,  with  a right  and  left  wing  embellished  with  a number 
of  graceful  Ionic  columns,  and  completed  in  1906. 

Fine  Greco-Roman  enrichments  are  features  of  the  archi- 
trave and  the  handsome  carved  cornice.  Carved  inscriptions 
above  the  windows  indicate  the  departments  devoted  to 
Geologia , Paleontologia,  Litologia,  Mineralogia,  Geotecnia , and 
Quimica.  A broad  flight  of  stone  steps  leads  up  to  the  peri- 
style. Entrance  is  had  through  three  communicating  arches 
which  support  a mirador  on  the  second  story.  This  portico 
is  adorned  with  six  graceful  Ionic  columns  and  an  equal 
number  of  Ionic  pilasters.  Between  the  latter  are  three  fine 
stained  glass  windows  representing:  on  the  left,  the  twin 
mountain  peaks  called  Las  Hermanas  (the  sisters),  and  the 
Ruinas  de  Tepozteco;  in  the  centre,  La  Cascada  de  Necaxa,  and 
on  the  right,  La  Erupcion  del  Volcan  de  Colima , 24  de  Marzo, 
1903.  Four  bronze  medallions  adorn  the  interior  wall;  one 
of  James  Hutton  (by  F.  Dietze),  1726-97;  W.  Smith  (by  A. 
Mathe),  1767-1839;  A.  G.  Verner  (by  Aug.  Kraus),  1749-1817 ; 


342  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Cemeteries . 


George  Cuvier  (byH.  Wefing),  1769-1832.  Acellular  system 
library  (the  first  installed  in  a Mex.  Scientific  Instit utef  occu- 
pies a portion  of  the  upper  floor.  The  four  thousand  vol- 
umes, chiefly  in  German,  treat  principally  of  geology.  They 
are  exchanged  from  time  to  time,  for  books  of  other  scientific 
societies  abroad.  The  landscape  views  on'  the  colored  glass 
doors  giving  access  to  the  library  represent  Los  Organos  de 
Octopan , and  the  Cafwn  del  Puente  de  Chone. 

The  upper  rooms  are  decorated  in  Greco-Roman  style;  one 
of  them  contains  a fresco  representing  geology  and  its  at- 
tributes. The  paintings  (by  Jose  Maria  Velasco)  on  the  walls 
of  the  upper  hall  represent  terrestrial  and  marine  flora  and 
fauna  of  remote  geological  epochs,  and  the  geological  features 
of  the  Santa  Catarina  (Mexico)  region.  Two  fine  stained-glass 
windows  on  this  floor  show  the  Barranca  (gorge)  de  Teocelo 
(State  of  Vera  Cruz)  and  the  Pilar  de  Huyapam , in  Tepe- 
huanes  (State  of  Durango).  To  reach  the  reception-room 
(on  the  lower  floor)  we  cross  the  vestibule  and  pass  be- 
neath the  winding  stair  which  leads  to  the  upper  floor. 
The  two  handsome  colored-glass  windows  which  adorn  the 
east  end  of  this  room  represent  the  primitive  mining  ma- 
chinery employed  in  the  16th  cent.  In  the  rear  are  two  huge 
glass  doors  (leading  to  the  elevator)  which  portray,  in  col- 
ored glass,  scenes  in  the  famous  Wieliczka  mines.  The  rear 
rooms  contain  many  cases  of  paleontological  specimens  from 
the  different  Mexican  States.  Petrography  and  Mineralogy 
are  also  represented.  The  front  rooms  (each  with  a seating 
capacity  of  400)  are  used  for  reunions. 

La  Casa  de  los  Mascarones  (House  of  the  Masks),  one  of  the 
most  elaborate  examples  of  domestic  Churrigueresque  archi- 
tecture in  the  city,  stands  at  the  cor.  of  the  4a  Calle  de  la  Ri- 
bera de  San  Cosme  and  the  la  C.  del  Naranjo  (PL  D,  3).  The 
house  is  a relic  of  Colonial  days  and  belonged  to  the  Marquis 
Don  Jose  de  Mendoza , who,  at  his  death  in  1771,  had  spent 
8100,000  on  it;  even  then  the  exterior  was  not  finished.  The 
interior  was  never  completed  according  to  the  original  plan. 

The  English  Cemetery,  in  the  suburb  of  Tlaxpana  (V.  PI. 
C.  3),  was  founded  in  1825  and  contains  about  10,000  dead. 
The  few  monuments  are  austere  in  character 

The  American  Cemetery  (V.  PL  A.  3)  is  near  Tacuba,  and  k 
uninteresting.  The  old  burying- ground  on  the  Veronica  Road 
(hard  by  the  English  Cemetery)  is  now  closed. 

The  Spanish  Cemetery,  in  the  N.-W.  section  of  the  city, 
near  the  suburb  of  Tacuba  (Tacuba  tranvias  at  frequent  in- 
tervals from  the  Zocalo),  was  inaugurated  in  1880  and  con- 
tains a number  of  elaborate  tombs,  chiefly  Gothic.  Perhaps 
the  most  massive  is  that  erected  to  the  memory  of  Senator 
Jose  Maria  Romero . Noteworthy  tombs  are  those  of  Saturnino 
Saulo , Quintin  Gutierrez , Ni colds  de  Teresa,  Francisco  Prida , 


MEXICO  CITY  A2.  Route.  343 

etc.  Within  the  panteon  is  a section  of  unconsecrated  ground 
where  suicides  and  others  are  interred. 

South-East  Quarters  of  the  City. 

CONSERVATORIO  NACIONAL  DE  MtfsiCA.  CHURCH  OF  PORTA  CcELI. 
Church  of  San  Bernardo.  Biblioteca  Nacional.  Calles  de  Capu- 
chinas.  Churches  of  Balvanera,  and  El  Colegio  de  Ninas.  Palacio 

DEL  CONDE  DE  SANTIAGO.  CHURCH  AND  HOSPITAL  DE  JESUS  NAZARENO. 

Churches  of  San  Jose  de  Gracia,  San  Miguel,  and  San  Pablo  ; Canal 
de  la  Viga.  Church  of  San  Antonio  Abad.  Colegio  de  la  Paz. 
Church  of  Regina  Cceli.  El  Hospicio  de  Pobres. 

The  National  Conservatory  of  Music  ( Conservatorio 
Nacional  de  Miisica),  facing  a narrow  and  short  calle  (La  Uni- 
versidad)  which  leads  S.  from  the  S.  side  (midway)  of  the 
Palacio  Nacional,  is  a nondescript,  unprepossessing  building 
once  celebrated  as  the  University  ( universidad ) of  Mexico. 
Free  to  visitors  between  10  a.  m.  and  5 p.  m.  It  was  founded 
by  a royal  order  of  Sept.  25,  1553,  and  endowed  with  the 
statutes  and  privileges  of  the  University  of  Salamanca,  in 
Spain.  The  corner-stone  of  the  present  structure  was  laid 
(on  the  site  of  Montezuma’s  palace,  and  on  ground  later  owned 
by  Don  Martin  Cortes , son  of  the  Great  Conqueror)  June  29, 
1584,  and  was  consecrated  by  Archbishop  Pedro  Moya  de 
Contreras.  The  edifice  was  completed  in  1590,  partly  recon- 
structed between  1785  and  1787,  and  again  in  1909.  The 
spacious  court  contains  some  parterres  of  flowers,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  a stately  cloister  supported  by  Ionic  columns. 
The  finely  carved  doors  on  the  r.  lead  to  the  theatre  (Teatro 
del  Conservatorio)  opened  in  1874.  It  contains  a number  of 
medallion  busts  of  musical  celebrities  and  of  dramatic  authors. 
The  best  of  the  few  pictures  in  the  conservatory  is  a votive 

I picture  by  Antonio  Vallejo. 

The  old  Church  of  Porta  Cceli  (Door  of  Heaven),  which 
j stands  in  the  6th  Calle  de  Capuchinas  (PI.  H,  5)  just  around 
the  corner  (S.-W.)  from  the  Conservatorio,  is  now  a tawdry 
and  dilapidated  resort  of  the  lower  classes.  At  the  left  of  the 
entrance  is  a jet-black  Cristo  Crucified.  The  original  ch. 

I was  a Dominican  foundation,  and  dates  from  1603. 

The  Church  of  San  Bernardo,  in  the  4th  Calle  de  Capuchi- 
nas (PI.  H,  4),  was  completed  and  dedicated  in  June,  1690,  at 
a cost  of  $60,000.  Having  been  founded  (on  the  site  of  a con- 
vent built  by  the  nuns  of  the  Cistercian  order)  without  the 
imperial  consent,  it  was  the  cause  of  a long  and  acrimonious 
correspondence  between  the  ecclesiastics  in  Mexico  and  the 
Consejo  Real  de  las  Indias.  The  convent  was  finally  closed, 
and  later  the  ch.  property  was  sequestrated  by  the  Reform  edict. 
When  the  Government  took  over  the  property,  the  institution, 
though  generally  considered  very  poor,  was  found  to  possess 
fifty-four  parcels  of  realty  valued  at  more  than  half  a million 
pesos , besides  many  investments.  After  its  suppression  the 
ch.  building  was  long  used  as  a storehouse.  It  is  now  so  hemmed 


344  Route  42.  MEXICO  CITY  Biblioteca  I 

in  by  stores  and  dwellings  as  to  remain  almost  unnoticed.  ' 
Its  fagade  makes  a pretty  picture  when  viewed  from  the  N.  ! 
end  of  the  Callejuela,  — a narrow,  arcade-like  lane  leading  from 
the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion  to  the  Calle  de  Capuchinas. 

The  brownish  drab  interior  decorations  are  new.  The 
Baldachin o-like  altar  mayor,  with  the  inscription  11  Ecce  | 
Tabernaculum  Dei  Cum  Hominibus ,”  is  borne  by  six  fluted  i 
Composite  columns  with  gilt  capitals.  The  four  side  altars 
contain  life-size  figures  of  santos.  A number  of  mortuary  | 
tablets  are  let  into  the  wTalls.  The  allegorical  paintings  in 
the  angles  of  the  columns  are  mediocre.  The  painting  on  the 
wall  below  the  organ-loft,  of  the  Virgin  and  the  Christ  Child, 
is  modern.  Despite  the  fresh-appearing  interior,  the  church 
bears  the  marks  of  time,  and  it  will  doubtless  soon  make  way  1 
for  modern  commercial  establishments. 

The  National  Library  ( Biblioteca  Nacional)  faces  the  3a  : 
Calle  de  San  Agustin  (PI.  G,  5),  and  is  5 min.  wTalk  south-w^est 
of  the  Plaza  Mayor.  Open  (free)  to  visitors  every  day  except 
Sundays  and  holidays,  from  10  a.  m.  to  5 p.  m.  No  fees.  The 
books  (nearly  200,000)  are  in  English,  German,  Spanish, 
French,  Italian  and  Latin. 

According  to  the  records,  about  30,000  persons  avail  them- 
selves of  the  use  of  the  books  during  a year.  Those  most  in 
demand  are  (according  to  statistics  counted  by  months)  books 
on  general  knowiedge,  284 ; on  history,  225 ; on  natural  sciences, 
152;  on  medicine,  105,  and  on  jurisprudence,  16. 

The  library  is  exceptionally  rich  in  books  treating  of  the- 
ology, of  the  Church  in  New*  Spain,  and  of  the  early  history 
of  Mexico.  If  the  visitor  is  interested  in  documents  referring 
to  municipal  transactions  during  the  time  of  the  Spanish 
Viceroys  he  is  recommended  to  the  archivo  in  the  Palacio 
Municipal,  described  at  page  292. 

Catalogues  near  the  chief  librarian’s  desk  just  within  the  entrance  to  the 
reading-room.  The  visitor  writes  his  name  on  a slip  of  paper,  along  with 
the  title  and  number  of  the  book  (only  one  book  can  be  taken  at  a time),  j 
and  the  librarian  indicates  the  department  where  the  volume  is  shelved, 
and  the  man  in  charge.  When  finished  with,  the  book  is  handed  back  to 
the  sub-librarian,  and  the  original  ticket  is  secured  and  returned  to  the 
chief  librarian  at  the  exit. 

The  biblioteca  is  housed  in  the  old  San  Agustin  Church , j 
erected  by  the  Augustinians  (1677-92)  on  the  site  of  a primi- 
tive church  which  wras  completed  in  1541  and  destroyed  by 
fire  in  1676.  Architecturally  it  is  one  of  the  most  imposing 
buildings  in  the  city,  and  the  handsome,  tile-covered  dome 
in  the  Mudejar  style  is  one  of  the  attractions  of  the  neighbor- 
hood where  it  is  located.  The  old  atrium  has  been  converted 
into  a shrub-embowTered  garden  enclosed  within  a high  iron 
railing.  The  posts  of  this  (20  in  number)  are  surmounted  by 
busts  of  Mexican  celebrities.  Among  them  are  the  poets 
Francisco  Manuel  Sanchez  de  Tagle;  Fray  Manuel  Navarrete , 


National. 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  345 


Manuel  Carpio,  Jose  Joaquin  Pesado , and  the  Aztec  Prince 
Netzahualcoyotl,  called  the  poet  rey.  The  historians  are  Fran - 
cisco  Javier  Clavijero,  Fernando  A.  Tezozomoc  and  Fernando 
A.  lxtlilxochitl  (Aztec  chroniclers);  Fernando  Ramirez,  Lucas 
Alaman  and  Mariano  Veytia;  Fray  Juan  Crisdstomo  Ndjera, 
philologist;  Manuel  de  la  Pena  y Pena,  jurist;  Carlos  Sign  enza 
y Gongora,  humanitarian;  Leopoldo  Rio  de  la  Loza,  Joaquin 
Cardosa  and  Jose  Maria  Lafragua,  chemists;  Manuel  Eduardo 
Gorostiza,  dramatist,  and  Jose  A.  Alzate,  naturalist. 

A fine  basso-relievo  of  San  Agustin  stands  above  the  main 
portal,  and  in  a niche  in  the  western  wall  is  a large  statue 
of  Minerva.  The  fagade,  a maze  of  columns,  basso-relievos, 
friezes  and  enrichments,  is  handsome  and  imposing;  perhaps 
the  finest  thing  of  its  kind  in  the  Republic.  The  marble-paved 
vestibule  adorned  with  two  rows  of  massive  Ionic  columns, 
which  support  the  groined  ceiling  of  the  old  coro , is  somewhat 
gloomy.  The  reading-room  — once  the  central  nave  of  the 
church  — is  of  huge  proportions,  with  lines  of  airy  pilasters 
supporting  a rich  cornice  whence  spring  the  arches  that  sup- 
port the  vaulted  roof.  It  is  uncomfortably  cool  in  winter. 
The  lateral  chapels  and  aisles  have  been  remodelled,  and  now 
form  alcoves  for  book-cases.  An  abundance  of  light  pours  in 
through  the  high  octagonal  clerestory  windows.  The  wood 
floor  is  a huge  sounding-board  that  accentuates  the  acoustic 
properties  of  the  structure.  In  front  of  the  fine  window  in  the 
apse  is  a huge  coat-of-arms  of  the  Mexican  Republic.  On  the 
balustrade  of  the  choir  loft  stands  an  imposing  figure  of  Flying 
Time,  the  work  of  Don  Epitacio  Calvo.  It  was  the  intention 
to  cast  this  figure  in  bronze,  but  the  funds  were  not  forth- 
coming and  the  clay  was  bronzed  over.  The  old  picture  on 
the  wall  of  the  coro  represents  St.  Mark’s  at  Venice,  and  is 
of  no  particular  merit.  Opposite  this  figure  is  a huge  eagle, 
emblem  of  the  Republic.  Near  the  entrance  are  medallion  por- 
traits, one  of  Benito  Juarez,  who,  on  Nov.  30,  1867,  issued 
the  decree  establishing  the  library  with  the  books  taken  from 
the  University,  the  Cathedral  and  various  colegios  and  con- 
vents; the  other  of  Antonio  Martinez  de  Castro,  the  Ministro 
de  Justicia  by  whom  the  decree  received  official  authorization. 
Note  the  fine  architrave  which  runs  the  length  of  the  interior, 
also  the  attractive  enrichments. 

# On  pedestals  ranged  along  the  walls  are  statues,  of  heroic 
size,  of  Plato,  Homer , Aristophanes,  Valmiki,  Cicero , Virgil , 
Isaiah , St.  Paul,  Dante,  Alarcon,  Origen,  Copernicus,  Des- 
cartes, Cuvier,  Humboldt  and  Confucius.  The  latter,  with 
his  flowing  beard  (somewhat  unusual  in  China),  bears  a 
stronger  resemblance  to  a Russian  than  to  a Chinese.  The 
rising  sun  on  his  breast  is  usually  considered  the  emblem  of 
Japan. 

The  west  wing  of  the  library,  now  used  as  a night  library, 


I 

346  Route  4 2.  MEXICO  CITY 

was  formerly  the  Chapel  of  the  Tercer  Orden  of  the  San 
Agustin  ch.  Before  its  renovation  (in  1906)  it  was  used  as  a ; 1 
storehouse  for  unclassified  books.  The  main  library  was  housed  a 
here  until  the  ch.  could  be  made  over  to  suit  the  exigencies  of  ft 
such  an  institution.  In  the  comer  of  the  garden  is  a statue  I 
(a  gift  from  the  German  Emperor,  in  1910)  of  Baron  Alexan-m 
der  von  Humboldt. 

Time  was  when  the  Church  of  San  Agustin  was  one  of  the  finest  and  | 
wealthiest  in  this  city  of  fine  churches.  It  possessed  vast  landed  wea  .th,n 
many  beautiful  pictures,  and  a richly  carved  walnut-wood  choir  with  I 
carved  stalls  representing  254  biblical  episodes  of  the  Old  Testament  — If 
the  estimated  cost  of  which  was  §240,000.  With  the  passage  of  theia 
Reform  Laws  the  ch.  became  government  property,  and  the  unique  1 
choir  was  removed  to  the  IN  ational  Preparatory  School  described  at  1 
p.  360.  The  great  convent  which  once  stretched  behind  the  ch..  with® 
its  splendid  patios  and  celebrated  mural  paintings,  was  one  of  the  finest  1 1 
in  Mexico.  The  artesonado  work  of  the  porteria  was  almost  as  celebrated  I 
as  the  choir  stalls.  Certain  of  the  old  paintings  now  in  the  Academy  of  1 
Fine  Arts  were  removed  hence. 

“ The  church  proper  [says  Mr.  Baxter ] lay  dismantled  for  several  years  ,1 
succeeding  its  sequestration  under  the  Reform  Laws,  and  it  was  several  |1 
times  used  as  a fortress.  It  was  one  of  the  most  sumptuous  churches  in  j I 
the  city,  and  the  Plateresque  design  adopted  for  the  Library  was  in  its  j I 
quiet  elegance  skilfully  brought  into  conformity  with  the  rich  adornments  I 
of  the  ch.  exterior,  which  were  preserved  so  far  as  possible.  It  was  origi-M 
nally  proposed,  in  the  reconstruction,  to  substitute  the  national  arms  for  * 
the  fine  old  low-relief  on  the  facade,  — one  of  the  finest  examples  of  old  | 
sculpture  in  the  country.  It  has  a strictly  Byzantine  quality,  particularly  ; 1 
in  its  representation  of  San  Agustin,  in  gigantic  proportions  as  compared  I 
with  the  adoring  monks  about  him.” 


The  2a  Calle  de  Capuchinas  (formerly  the  Calle  de  Cadena),  j 
in  which  stands  the  city  residence  of  the  late  president  Porjirio  ] 
Diaz , was  originally  named  for  the  distinguished  Cadena  I 
family  who  lived  here  during  the  early  years  of  the  Colonial  i 
regime. 

The  Church  of  Balvanera  (in  the  5a  Calle  de  San  Agustin,  ' 
PI.  H.  5),  dedicated  to  Nuestra  Sehora  de  Balvanera,  was 
begun  May  3,  1667,  and  completed  and  dedicated  Dec.  7,  , 
1671,  and  is  of  passing  interest  only  in  that  it  possesses  a tower  | 
decorated  after  the  style  of  a crazy-quilt.  The  ch.  contains  1 1 
nothing  of  interest,  and  occupies  the  site  of  a ch.  erected  in 
1573  by  the  Concepdonistas . 

The  Church  of  the  Colegio  de  Ninas  (girls’  college),  | 
sometimes  called  Colegio  de  la  Caridad  and  Nuestro  1 
Senor  de  Luxes,  a quaint  old  structure  in  one  of  the  busiest  < 
of  the  modern  streets  (4th  Bolivar)  of  the  capital  (PI.  G,  4),  i 
was  founded  in  1548  by  the  Franciscan  Fray  Pedro  de  GanieA  j 
It  is  now  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  French  fathers.  Its 
present  air  of  tawdry  decorum,  coupled  with  its  over-decora-  1 
tion,  is  in  strong  contrast  to  its  one-time  splendor  — curtailed 
by  the  Reform  Laws.  The  chief  object  of  veneration  in  the 
ch.  is  a picture,  in  a cheap  gilt  frame,  above  the  sagraric  \ 
of  the  high  altar  — a print  of  the  veil  of  Santa  Veronica , sur- 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  347 


rounded  by  many  tiny  votive  offerings  of  silver.  Hanging 
above  the  door  leading  into  the  sacristy  is  a smaller  reproduc- 
tion, also  with  many  oblations.  On  one  of  the  pilasters  in  the 
body  of  the  ch.  is  a framed  document  in  Latin  setting  forth 
i the  history  of  the  cult.  Interesting  in  that  it  exemplifies  the 
power  of  blind  faith,  is  the  fact  that  the  oil  in  the  lamps  which 
burn  before  these  pictures  is  eagerly  sought  by  ailing  devotees, 
who  attribute  miraculous  healing  powers  to  it.  When  the 
lamps  are  extinguished  the  remaining  oil  is  distributed  gratis 
among  the  suffering  ones,  and  these  votive  offerings  represent 
the  members  of  the  human  body  cured  by  it.  The  pictures 
(copies  of  the  original  in  St.  Peter  s,  at  Rome)* 1  were  once  the 
most  venerated  objects  in  the  Church  of  Santa  Clara  (p.  331). 

One  or  two  of  the  chapels  in  this  ch.  are  like  grottoes.  The 
many  polychrome  figures  of  saints  in  high  and  low  relief, 
as  well  as  the  14  colored  pictures  representing  the  stations 
of  the  cross,  are  of  German  and  Spanish  origin. 

| Few  of  the  remaining  Colonial  houses  are  older,  and  few 
jpossess  a more  attractive  exterior,  than  the  Palacio  del 
Conde  de  Santiago  de  Calimaya  in  the  3d  Calle  de  Flame- 
cos  (PI.  H,  5).  The  structure,  of  pink  tezontle,  dates  from  the 
years  immediately  following  the  Conquest,  and  was  erected 
by  Lie.  Don  Juan  Gutierrez  Altamarino , a cousin  of  Hernan 
1 Cortes.  When  a hundred  years  later  it  passed  into  the  hands 
of  Don  Santiago  de  Calimaya,  he  caused  to  be  laid  out  a 
beautiful  park  in  the  neighborhood,  and  for  three  centuries 
the  street  which  leads  past  the  S.  corner  of  the  house  was 
called  Calle  del  P argue  del  Conde.  The  great  open  court,  now 
used  as  a place  to  store  merchandise,  and  the  grand  stairway 
leading  to  the  second  floor,  are  splendid  specimens  of  the  early 
> style  of  architecture.  The  fine  carvings  of  the  entrance,  and 
the  huge  wood  doors  are  noteworthy.  Running  round  the 
roof  from  N.toS.,  and  thence  E.,  are  17  huge  gargoyles  {gar- 
tolas)  carved  in  stone  and  representing  half  cannons  — the 
)est  examples  of  this  style  of  work  in  the  Republic.  The  cor- 
1 lerstone  is  a huge  monolith  representing  an  Aztec  tiger,  — no 

1 According  to  certain  church  historians,  Saint  Veronica  was  the 

Iivoman  who  gave  her  veil  to  the  Saviour  to  wipe  the  sweat  from  his  face 
-vhen  he  was  carrying  his  cross  to  Calvary,  and  on  receiving  it  back 
bund  his  likeness  impressed  on  the  cloth.  This  original  veil  is  said  to  be 
i itill  preserved  at  Rome  (Church  of  St.  Peter),  where  it  is  shown  to  only 

i few  persons  of  special  rank.  It  is  commonly  supposed  that  the  Saint 
| Veronica  of  the  legend  received  this  name  in  mistake,  and  that  it  arose 
from  a misunderstanding  and  corruption  of  the  term  vera  icon , true 
mage,  originally  applied  to  the  likeness  itself.  Various  ancient  witnesses, 
lowever,  have  identified  Veronica  with  different  persons  mentioned  in  the 
lospels.  In  the  legend  of  the  Clementines,  Veronica  is  another  form 
or  Berenice , the  daughter  of  the  Canaanitish  woman  who  won  froni 
fesus  the  recovery  of  her  child.  According  to  the  “ Acts  of  Pilatus,  ” and  in 
be  writings  of  Cassiodorus,  Reginus,  Cedrenus,  etc.,  she  was  the  woman 
sealed  by  Christ  of  her  issue,  who  afterward  raised  to  Jesus  a statue  in 
>ronze  at  Paneas. 


348  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Jesus  N azareno. 


doubt  taken  from  the  great  Aztec  teocatti  which  once  stooc  I 
in  the  Plaza  Mayor.  History  says  Hernan  Cortes  placed  thi<  g 
stone  in  position  with  his  own  hands. 

Few  of  the  city  churches  are  more  interesting,  from  a his- 1 
torical  view-point,  than  that  of  Jesus  Nazareno  (Jesus  o)  i 
Nazareth)  in  the  4a  Calle  de  San  Felipe  Neri  (PI.  H,  5),  founder  ! 
by  Hernan  Cortes , in  1524,  under  the  title  of  Nuestra  Senorc 
de  la  Purisima  Concepcion.  The  adjoining  Hospital  de  Jesui 
was  established  3 years  later.  According  to  the  tattered  anc; 
faded  parchment  records  in  the  ch.,  the  existing  Sacristk 
once  formed  the  Capilla  of  the  hospital,  — the  main  body  o 
the  present  ch . dating  from  later  times.  Albeit  Cortes  endowec 
both  institutions  with  ample  funds,  it  was  not  till  long  afteij 
his  death  that  the  ch.  was  begun  (1575)  and  completed  (1665 
and  dedicated.  About  1663  there  came  into  possession  of  the 
organization  a celebrated  image  of  Jesus  N azareno,  and  th< 
institution  soon  became  known  by  that  name.  This  imagt 
proved  such  a revenue-producer  that  another  alleged  mirac- 
ulous image — Nuestra  Sehora  de  la  Bala  (Our  Lady  of  thu 
Bullet)  — was  later  acquired,  and  is  now  to  be  seen  at  the  altai  j 
immediately  facing  the  entrance.  Tradition  relates  that  a poo;| 
man  of  Ixtapalapan  charged  his  wife  with  infidelity  and  firec 
a pistol  at  her,  but  failed  to  injure  her,  as  she  implored  the  I 
protection  of  the  image,  which  promptly  moved  into  range  anc  I 
intercepted  the  bullet!  The  inscription  on  the  altar  relates  tha  I 
the  image  was  long  venerated  in  the  Templo  de  San  Ldzan  I 
and  later  in  that  of  the  College  of  San  Pablo  of  the  Agusiinos  j 
whence  it  was  removed  to  its  present  place.  Immediately  til 
the  r.  of  the  entrance,  behind  a glass  on  the  altar,  is  a poly  I 
chrome  figure  of  the  Saviour  crucified,  on  a cross  of  elaborat  I 
inlaid  work  with  silver  trimmings.  This  figure,  one  of  the  mos  I 
venerated  objects  in  the  ch.,  represents  to  many  the  personi 
fication  of  the  original  image  of  Jesus  N azareno,  and  is  knowii 
as  El  Cristo  de  los  Desagravios.  In  a glass  case  at  the  feet  o| 
the  rood  are  many  votive  offerings.  At  the  r.  and  1.  are  in  f | 
scriptions,  in  Spanish,  to  the  effect  that: 

“At  9 p.m.  of  Nov.,  1732,  during  a fearsome  earthquake,  the  figure  be  1 1 
came  transformed;  that  it  bled  so  copiously  from  the  wound  in  its  sia  jfl 
a sheet  was  necessary  to  catch  the  flow,  and  when  this  sheet  [still  pre  ji 
served]  was  opened  it  was  found  to  be  covered  with  small  red  crosses.  M 
The  occurrence  is  duly  recorded  in  the  church  records,  and  sworn  tob;|J 
the  clerics  who  lived  at  that  period. 

In  the  transepts  are  the  remains  of  the  historian  Lucas  AlaM 
man,  the  celebrated  writer  Fr.  Manuel  de  San  Juan  Cr/sosa 
tomo  Najera , and  the  Catalonian  sculptor  D.  Manuel  Yilart 
one-time  professor  in  the  Academia  de  San  Carlos.  From  179  [j 
to  1823  the  bones  of  Hernan  Cortes  rested  here  under  a find 
marble  sepulchre  within  the  chancel.  The  bizarre  Altar  Mai 
yor,  with  its  huge  gilt  frame  and  its  polychrome  figure  in  higi 


I MEXICO  CITY  Ifi.  Route.  349 

elief,  possesses  a sort  of  attraction.  The  most  interesting  part 
>f  the  ch.  is  the  old 

Sacristi'a,  immediately  to  the  r.  of  the  Main  Altar.  It  dates 
>ack  to  the  early  days,  and  has  the  only  example  remaining 
n the  capital  of  the  richly  decorated  old  wooden  ceiling,  of 
he  form  called  artesonado  or  pieced  work.  It  is  of  cedar  (well 
vorth  looking  at),  with  the  exquisite  rich  brown  tone  of  the 
latural  wood.  The  Maltese  crosses  of  the  wood,  and  the  ro- 

|,ettes  of  metal,  are  gilt  against  a ground  of  light  blue  — now 
larkened  with  age.  In  this  room  is  a huge  round  table  with 
i top  of  a single  piece.  The  excellent  paintings  of  the  Sagrada 
Vamilia  and  the  Purisima  Concepcion  are  unsigned,  but  they 
lire  of  undoubted  antiquity.  # 

The  huge  figure  of  San  Miguel,  which  surmounts  the  tall 
Vampanario,  once  served  as  a weather-cock  or  giralda ; it  is 
now  a landmark  of  the  neighborhood. 

The  Hospital  de  Jesus  Nazareno,  a long  low  building, 
id  joins  the  ch.  and  faces  N.  The  first  meeting  of  Cortes  and 
Montezuma  took  place  on  the  site  of  this  hospital,  from  which 
circumstance  the  edifice  was  erected  here.  The  exterior  is 
londescript,  but  the  pretty  garden  of  the  interior  and  the  quaint 
irchitectural  features  are  attractive.  Let  into  the  E.  wall  is  a 
tablet  on  which  is  inscribed,  in  Spanish:  Hospital  of  the  Clean 
Conception  of  the  Most  Holy  Mary  and  Jesus  of  Nazareth,  the 
oldest  of  the  ' Nation , Founded  on  this  famous  site  of  paganism 
known  as  “ HuitziUan9*  in  the  year  1527.  Renovated  and  rees- 
tablished in  1838. 

Immediately  to  the  E.  of  the  Hospital  de  Jesus  (in  the  5a 
Calle  Mesones)  is  the  old  Church  of  San  Jos£  de  Gracia 
(P1.H,5),  adjacent  to  a convent  (now  closed)  established  by 
Fray  Garcia  Guerra,  under  the  advocation  of  Santa  Monica , 
for  the  voluntary  retirement  of  religious  women.  The  corner- 
stone of  the  present  structure  was  laid  Mch.  19,  1659,  and  the 
ch.  was  inaugurated  Nov.  24,  1661.  Time  was  when  a cele- 
brated image  of  the  Virgin,  worshipped  under  the  title  of  the 
Divina  Infantita  (approved  by  Pope  Gregory  XVI),  and  to 
which  many  miracles  were  attributed,  drew  numerous  ad- 
herents to  this  ch.  — which  is  now  Protestant.  The  structure 
offers  but  little  of  interest  to  visitors.  The  fagade  and  towers 
differ  but  little  from  those  of  many  of  the  other  city  churches. 

The  Parochial  Church  of  San  Miguel  (St.  Michael),  in 
the  4tt  calle  of  the  same  name  (PI.  H,  5),  dates  from  1692,  pos- 
sesses one  or  two  unsigned  and  undated  pictures  of  no  great 
merit,  and  is  devoid  of  general  interest  for  the  tourist.  When 
completed  the  ch.  was  dedicated  to  S.  Miguel,  and  the  main 
chapel  to  Maria  Santisima  del  Pilar  de  Zaragoza.  Here  certain 
cf  the  city’s  butchers  hold  annually  (Oct.  18)  a service  to  their 
1 patron  saint.  The  renovations  in  this  chapel  date  from  1850. 
The  twin  towers  and  the  linterna  surmounting  the  dome  are 


350  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


La  Viga. 

tile-tipped,  and  are  landmarks  of  the  neighborhood  — which 
contains  several  coffee- grinding  mills  and  minor  manufac- 
tories. 

Far  to  the  S.-E.  of  the  Plaza  Mayor . in  a tawdry  neighbor- 
hood not  distinguished  for  cleanliness,  stands  (in  the  la  Calle  . 
de  San  Pablo,  PL  H.  5)  the  plain  and  poor  Church  of  San  j 
Pablo,  which  dates  from  the  beginning  of  the  18th  cent.,  and 
was  built  by  the  An  gustinians.  A cluster  of  churches  once  graced 
this  vicinity,  which  from  about  1575  and  onward  for  two  cen- 
turies or  more  was  a fashionable  district  of  the  new  Spanish  city 
that  rose  from  the  debris  of  the  Aztec  metropolis.  Across  the 
upper  facade  of  the  ch.  is  a curious  strip  of  colored  tile-wort 
inset  with  flowers.  Near  by,  on  the  r.,  in  what  was  once  a 
fine  garden,  are  the  ruins  of  an  old  ch.,  the  one-time  parroquia 
of  the  neighborhood,  but  which  was  partly  demolished  and 
used  for  a wareroom  after  the  Reform  Law  edict. 

The  weather-beaten  old  Church  of  San  Antonio  Abad , 
flanking  the  calzada  of  the  same  name,  in  the  extreme  S.-E. 
portion  of  the  city  (PI.  H,  6),  was  erected  in  1628  by  certain  j 
brothers  called  Canonigos  Regulares  del  Or  den  de  San  Antonio 
Abad  de  Viena  — regular  canons  of  the  order  of  St.  Anthony  i 
the  Abbot  of  Vienna.  The  site  was  that  of  a hermitage  which 
dated  from  1530,  and  was  in  consequence  one  of  the  first 
Spanish  buildings  erected  in  the  New  World. 

Near  by  is  the  equally  historic  ch.  of  SoMo. i Cruz  Acatlan 
(oftentimes  called  San  Antonio  AboA ),  which  dates  from  a 
later  period,  and  was  erected  by  adherents  of  the  Seraphic 
Order.  It  is  now  a resort  of  the  lower  class.  (The  suburb  toward 
the  S.  was  known  in  Aztec  times  as  Xochi-Acatldn.)  The  in- 
terest attaching  to  it  is  purely  historic. 

Canal  de  la  Viga,  Xochimilco,  and  the  Floating- Gardens 
( Chinampas  — Aztec,  chinamitl,  woven  canes,  or  reeds;  pa. 
in  or  on).  The  Canal  (sometimes  called  Canal  National) 
starts  from  the  S.-E.  outskirts  of  the  city  (PI.  H,  6),  and  is 
reached  (frequent  service)  by  tram-cars  (from  the  Plaza  Mayor) 
marked  La  Viga  (time  about-  10  min.).  The  cars  stop  at  the 
so-called  entrance  to  the  Paseo,  or  Calzada  de  la  Viga , or 
Calzada  de  Ixtacalco  ( casa  blanca  — white  house),  anciently 
the  most  fashionable  and  frequented  of  the  city  boulevards, 
but  now  a jejune  and  dusty  simulacrum  of  its  former  glory. 
Marking  this  city  terminus  of  the  paseo  (boulevard)  are  two 
huge  bronze  statues,  in  questionable  taste,  of  alleged  inhabit- 
ants of  the  Valley  of  Mexico  before  the  Conquest.  They  were 
unveiled  Sept.  16,  1891,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  Paseo  de  la  Re- 
forma, but  adverse  criticism  caused  their  removal  hither. 
They  weigh  4 tons  each,  were  cast  in  Mexico,  cost  $80,000 
and  are  poor  examples  of  the  excellent  work  of  which  Mexican 
artisans  are  capable.  They  stand  in  a frowsy  neighborhood 
where  miracles  are  supposed  to  take  the  place  of  soap,  and 


La  Viga—Xochimilco . MEXICO  CITY 


350a 


I which  should  be  rigorously  shunned  after  nightfall.  The  dis- 
trict is  unclean,  the  inhabitants  are  distinguished  neither  for 
intelligence  nor’probity,  and  major  diseases  often  make  of  the 
region  their  permanent  habitat. 

The  city  end  of  the  canal  is  about  8 min.  walk  from  the  end 
of  the  car  line.  Formerly  it  came  right  up  to  the  Plaza  Mayor , 
connecting  this  with  the  lake  region  of  Chaleo , Texcoco,  and 
Xochimilco  (see  the  Valley  Plan),  and  over  its  fluid  surface 
came  flowers  to  the  city  flower-markets,  and  many  of  the 
fruits  and  vegetables  consumed  in  the  capital. 

r . The  old  calzada  was  pre-Iberian,  and  formed  one  of  the  three  prin- 
ilcipal  causeways  leading  from  the  mainland  to  the  water-locked  city  o: 
Tenochtitlan.  According  to  early  chroniclers  it  was  very  wide,  and  eight 

! horsemen  riding  abreast  could  pass  along  it  at  one  and  the  same  time. 
The  old  Aztec  fortress  of  Xoloc  (god  of  all  double  and  distorted  things) 
flanked  this  highway  and  gave  its  name  to  the  district.  It  is  referred  to 
as  one  of  the  strongest  of  all  the  Aztec  defences,  surrounded  by  a massive 
wall  10  ft.  high;  by  a deep  moat  spanned  by  a draw-bridge  ( puente 
levadizo ) and  surmounted  by  two  high  towers.  Cortes  travelled  this 
causeway  on  his  first  entrance  to  the  Aztec  stronghold,  and  later  he  in- 
trenched himself  in  the  Xoloc  fortress  and  used  it  as  one  of  the  points  from 
which  he  besieged  the  city. 

It  was  reconstructed  in  1785  by  the  Conde  M alias  de  Galvez , 
the  48th  viceroy,  and  again,  between  1789  and  ’94  by  (the  52d 
viceroy)  the  Conde  de  Revillagigedo . Following  that  period 
the  Calzada  was  to  the  viceregal  city  what  the  Paseo  de  la 
Reforma  is  to  the  present  capital.  Then  the  Floating  Gardens, 
and  the  Flower-Shows  held  at  Santa  Anita,  by  the  canal,  were 
at  their  best,  and  the  beauty  and  wealth  of  the  metropolis 
assembled  here  to  see  and  be  seen.  The  Flower-Show,  particu- 
larly on  Viernes  de  Dolores,  is  still  held  at  Santa  Anita,  and 
it  attracts  a few,  but  the  sanctity  of  the  day  does  not  prevent 
the  flower-lovers  and  pickers  from  indulging  in  pocket-picking, 
and  strangers  should  be  constantly  on  their  guard.  The  little 
town  is  tawdry  and  unfragrant,  and  it  offers  but  little  to  the 
average  tourist. 

A better  way  to  reach  it  than  by  the  La  Viga  tram-cars  is 
to  take  (from  the  Plaza  Mayor)  the  tram  marked  Ixtapaldpan, 
and  descend  at  Santa  Anita.  — Between  the  city  end  of  the 
canal  (which  begins  at  a little  park  near  the  monument  to, 
and  bust  of,  Cuauhtemoc,  the  successor  to  Montezuma)  and 
Santa  Anita  (near  the  3d  Bridge),  is  the  uninteresting  little 
settlement  of  Rancho  de  la  Cruz.  At  the  park,  where  the 
canal  terminates,  the  banks  usually  are  piled  high  with  vege- 
tables and  produce  from  Xochimilco  and  the  lake  region. 

After  flowing  beneath  the  little  ex-Garita  Bridge  (so-called 
from  an  octroi  station  which  once  stood  at  this  point),  the 
canal  (about  25  ft.  wide)  saunters  past  tall  eucalyptus  trees 
and  over  wide  reaches  to  Xochimilco  and  the  Lakes,  about 
10  M.  beyond.  The  trip  on  the  canal  is  long,  tiresome  for  the 
traveller,  and  arduous  for  the  boatman,  because  of  the  water 


350b  Xochimilco.  MEXICO  CITY  Floating-Gardens. 

lilies  (lino  acudtico ) which  choke  the  stream.  Any  floating- 
gardens  which  may  have  existed  here  m former  times  have 
joined  the  continent.  , e , 

In  contrast  to  the  dinginess  of  La  Viga  (so-called  lrom  the 
heavy  baulks  or  girders  — vigas  — which  formed  the  bridges 
over  the  stream)  and  Santa  Anita , Xochimilco  is  one  ot  the 
most  delightful  spots  in  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  and  no  stranger 
to  the  city  should  fail  to  see  this  well-preserved  rehc  of  early 

Xochimilco  (pron.  so-chee-meal-co;  from  xochitl , flower, 
miUi , and  co.  flower-bed,  or  place  where  flowers  are),  an  ancient 
Indian  stronghold  15  M.  S.  of  Mexico  City  (frequent  and 
excellent  tram-car  service  — in  about  1 hr.)  came  into  history 
about  1270,  when  the  Chichimecas  (according  to  Bernal  Diaz 
del  Castillo , historian  of  the  Conquest)  were  one  of  the  govern- 
ing tribes  of  the  Vale  of  Anahuac  (Valley  of  Mexico).  During 
the  reign  of  the  emperor  TloUzin  Pochotl , the  XochimUcai 
came  down  from  the  North,  conquered  the  Chichimecas,  and 
established  themselves  in  a sort  of  imperio  which  was  part  land 
and  part  water.  The  Spaniards  found  them  occupying  a 
bizarre  island  empire  surrounded  by  waterways,  spanned  by 
drawbridges,  and  so  fortified  that  the  invaders  had  consider- 
able difficulty  in  dislodging  them.  According  to  the  historian, 
Cortes  almost  lost  his  life  here,  in  one  of  his  vigorous  assaults 
against  the  stronglv  intrenched  Indians.  His  horse  became 
mired  in  one  of  the^deep  sluiceways,  and  but  for  the  heroism 
of  one  of  his  Tlaxcalan  allies,  the  Great  Captain  would  have 

perished  miserably.  . . . ... 

At  that  period  a network  of  canals  Venetian  m their  multi- 
plicity covered  the  neighborhood,  and  hundreds  of  Indian 
piraguas  and  primitive  dugouts  flashed  to  and  fro  over  the 
surface  of  the  canals  and  the  adjoining  lagos . Many  of  the 
canals  have  been  filled  in,  but  a network  of  them  remains. 
There  are  three  main  canals  (the  widest  of  them  el  Lanai  cie 
San  Cristobal , and  Nativitas  — a continuation  of  La  Viga) 
and  numerous  lateral  canalitas.  The  tiny,  trout-like  nsn 
which  abound  in  the  water  are  called  juiles  (Nahuatl,  xohuilm) , 
the  still  smaller  ones  are  mextlapiqv.es.  These  are  also  found  m 
manv  of  the  acequias , or  irri gating-ditches  on  the  tableland. 
The  tinv  frogs  (ranas)  for  which  the  region  is  noted  are  known 
bv  the  Aztec  name  atepocate:  in  time  they  change  into  axolotls 
(mentioned  at  pp.  214  and  500).  The  canals  wmd  between 
what  originally  were  the  chinampas.  . 

The  Chinampas,  or  Floating- Gardens  (ascribed  to  Acama - 
pictli.  one  of  the  earlv  Chichimecan  potentates)  originally 
were  made  of  interlacing  twigs  made  thick  enough  to  form  a 
strong  mat,  then  covered  with  a thin  layer  of  earth,  being 
light  thev  were  easilv  moved  across  the  lake  by  means  ot  oars. 
They  usually  took  the  form  of  parallelograms  and  were  some- 


Floating-Gardens . MEXICO  CITY  Xochimileo . 350c 

ii  times  over  a hundred  feet  long.  Fragile  native  huts  ( chozas , or 
chinancales)  were  erected  on  them,  and  plants  of  various 

S kinds  made  to  grow.  Eventually,  when  these  gardens  took 
root,  as  it  were,  tall  eucalyptus,  olive,  and  other  trees  grew 
from  them,  so  that  now  the  entire  region  is  one  of  trees,  shrubs, 
[I  creepers  and  flowers.  The  chief  products  of  the  district  are 

(flowers,  vegetables,  and  petates,  or  reed-mats  made  from  the 
tules  (reeds)  which  grow  in  abundance  in  the  adjacent  lake. 
The  flowers  are  varied  and  beautiful.  Each  of  the  little  plots 
of  land  is  a sort  of  floral  paradise,  and  a boat-ride  on  the  canals 
, which  flank  them  is  a delight.  Early  morning,  and  moonlit 
| evenings  are  the  best  times. 

On  Sundays  and  feast-days  the  canals  are  crowded  with 
pleasure-seekers,  and  then  the  region  is  singularly  attractive. 
Large  flat-bottomed  boats,  called  canoas , 10-20  ft.  long  by 
5-8  ft.  broad,  and  smaller  craft  ( chalupas ) something  like 
Venetian  gondolas,  with  seats  and  awnings,  and  propelled  by 
Indian  boys  with  long  poles,  ply  for  hire,  and  are  popular 
with  excursionists.  Touters  usually  spot  strangers  as  they 
board  the  tram-cars  at  the  Zocalo,  and  approach  them  there, 
on  the  cars,  or  when  they  disembark  at  the  Xochimileo  plaza 
(the  car  terminus).  As  boats  vary  in  size,  cleanliness  and 
equipment,  it  is  better  to  wait  (unless  there  is  a brisk  demand) 
until  one  reaches  the  boat  landing  ( Embarcadero  del  Salitre)} 
which  is  not  far  (5  min.  walk)  from  the  church,  at  the  right. 
The  boatman  will  show  the  way.  The  usual  trip  is  from  the 
landing  to  the  Ojos  de  Agua  (at  Nativitas),  a romantic  spot 
where  one  of  the  Pumping  Stations  of  the  Mexico  Light  & 
Power  Co.  stands  amid  flowers,  olive  trees,  pines  trained  after 
the  manner  of  the  Japanese  arborists,  and  many  beautiful 
shrubs.  There  is  a stone  landing,  a pool  of  wonderfully  clear 
water  (the  city  water  comes  from  this  and  other  stations  in 
the  vicinity)  and  several  al  fresco  restaurants  where  one  may 
dine  primitively  (and  cheaply)  amid  attractive  surroundings. 

The  usual  cost  for  a boat  (higher  on  Sundays  and  dias  de 
fiesta)  is  about  three  pesos  for  two  or  more  persons,  in  a small 
boat,  and  5 pesos  for  a larger  party  in  a larger  boat.  Boats 
return  to  the  starting  point.  There  is  practically  no  time 
limit;  but  2-3  hrs.  is  the  accepted  standard.  — The  trip  is 
delightfully  picturesque;  en  route  Indian  women  in  light  canoes 
dart  up  alongside  and  offer  refreshments  and  flowers  for  sale; 
boats  filled  with  happy  natives,  musicians,  and  others  drift 
past.  Some  of  the  larger  craft  have  dining  tables  in  the  centre, 
and  here  joyous  groups  eat,  drink,  and  make  merry  to  the  sound 
of  thrumming  guitars,  Spanish  canciones  and  Indian  melodies. 
Lovers  luxuriate  in  the  amiable  blindness  which  all  Mexicans 
affect  on  such  occasions,  and  the  cares  and  perplexities  of  a 
workaday  world  seem  a million  miles  removed  from  this 
Elysian  spot.  In  early  spring  the  entire  region  is  a riot  of  glori- 


350c? 


MEXICO  CITY 


El  Desierto. 


ous  flowers  (lilies,  roses,  poppies,  and  whatnot),  and  the  air 
fairly  vibrates  with  bird  trillings.  The  people  one  meets  are 
friendly  and  attractive;  pure  Indian  types  predominate,  and 
while  bargaining  with  the  boatman  is  always  necessary,  there 
is  an  absence  of  greed  and  a desire  to  fleece  the  traveller  who 
visits  the  spot. 

If  time  permits,  the  traveller  should  inspect  the  quaint  old 
Parochial  Church  (la  parroquia),  which  faces  the  unkempt 
Jar  din  Juarez  (the  car  terminal).  It  dates  from  the  closing 
years  of  the  16th  cent.,  and  is  perhaps  one  of  the  oldest 
churches  of  its  class  in  the  Republic.  It  is  dedicated  to  San 
Bernardino , the  tutelar  of  the  town,  whose  life  history  was 
translated  into  the  Indian  dialect  by  padre  Fray  Bernardino 
de  Sahagiln  (1499-1590),  — who  also  published  works  in  the 
Aztec  language.  One  of  the  old  bells  bears  the  date  1566,  and 
its  thin,  querulous  voice  is  tinged  with  the  melancholy  of  many 
centuries.  The  archaic  interior  with  its  enormous  single  vault 
contains  a huge,  semi-circular  reredo  in  the  baroque  style,  and 
numerous  altars  with  time-stained  pictures  of  santos  and 
santas.  The  lateral  altars  are  on  a higher  level  than  the  wood 
floor  of  the  aisleless  nave  — a feature  rarely  met  with  in 
Mexican  churches.  Ecclesiologically  it  is  perhaps  contempora- 
neous with  the  quaint  old  church  at  Acolman,  described  at 
p.  4265. 

Far  to  the  right  of  the  Xochimilco  district  is  El  Desierto  y 
described  below. 

El  Desierto,  or  La  Venta , called  also  Desierto  de  los  Leones 
(desert  of  the  lions),  a one-time  ecclesiastical  retreat  (see  the 
Valley  Plan,  A,  5)  erected  by  the  Carmelite  Monks  as  a 
monastery  in  1606,  is  about  10  M.  S.-W.  of  the  capital,  in  a 
charming  spot  much  liked  by  autoists  and  is  reached  either 
by  auto  (time  about  2 hrs.)  or  by  tram-cars  marked  La  Venta , 
which  leave  from  the  Plaza  Cartagena , in  Tacubava,  at  certain 
intervals  during  the  day  (consult  the  Guia  Oficicd  del  Sistema 
de  Tranvias  de  Mexico ). 

The  tourist  who  wishes  to  get  the  most  out  of  his  time  can 
combine  a trip  to  El  Desierto  with  one  to  Tacubaya,  Mixcoac , 
and  San  Angel.  On  holidays  and  Sundays  El  Desierto  is  apt  to 
be  crowded  with  excursionists.  At  that  time  refreshment 
tables  are  set  out  under  the  giant  trees,  quiet  games  of  chance 
are  sometimes  indulged  in,  and  the  place  takes  on  a festive 
air  out  of  harmony  with  the  ecclesiastical  memories  which 
brood  above  it. 

The  tram-car  terminus  is  at  La.  Venta , or  Cuajimalpa , at 
the  edge  of  the  forest  reserve  which  enshrines  the  old  mon- 
astery. Hence  it  is  a short  and  delightful  walk  through  shaded 
roads  which  strongly  recall  certain  of  those  about  Nikko, 
Japan.  While  the  ancient  structures  are  now  falling  into  decay, 
the  surroundings  are  beautiful,  and  yvell  worth  a visit.  Alert 


El  Desierto. 


MEXICO  CITY 


351 


boys  act  as  guides  to  the  cloisters  and  gardens,  and  for  a small 
fee  (50  c.  is  ample)  conduct  one  through  an  underground 
(clean)  labyrinth  and  point  out  the  disciplinary  cells  where 
recalcitrant  monks  were  left  in  Stygian  darkness  to  reflect 
upon  their  conduct. 

The  barefoot  Carmelite  friars  who  first  repaired  to  El 
Desierto  no  doubt  did  so  in  imitation  of  a host  of  other  brothers 
of  the  tonsure  in  Spain,  who  became  hermits  and  alleged  re- 
cluses in  similar  resorts,  which  though  referred  to  as  deserts 
and  jejune  places,  often  were  flower-crowned  retreats  where 
milk  and  honey  and  frankincense  and  myrrh  took  the  place  of 
the  Barmecide  repasts  supposed  to  be  their  daily  refection. 
Judging  from  the  present,  El  Desierto  of  the  past  must  have 
been  a Hesperidian  garden  of  roses  and  jasmine  and  sweet 
cicely  and  incense,  for  great  trees  shut  it  in  on  all  sides,  sempi- 
ternal sunshine  pours  in  golden  waves  upon  it,  a host  of  sweet 
song-birds  make  the  woods  vocal  with  melody,  and  an  air  of 
peace  and  tranquillity  singularly  alluring  replaces  the  artificial 
miseries  of  the  metropolitan  life. 

Certain  of  the  walks  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  are 
charming  if  one  can  compass  them  in  solitude,  and  when  too 
many  merry-makers  are  not  in  evidence.  From  near-by  van- 
tage points  one  can  command  far-reaching  views  over  the 
valley  and  to  the  mountains  which  guard  it.  For  like  the 
Buddhists  of  the  Far  East,  the  early  friars  in  Mexico  loved  to 
erect  their  retreats  in  high  places,  and  on  sun-washed  slopes 
whence  the  material  as  well  as  the  spiritual  eye  could  drink  in 
the  charm  of  Nature’s  handwork. 

The  shrewd  old  English  monk,  Thomas  Gage  (1596-1656), 
missionary  and  author,  who  joined  the  Dominicans  in  Spain 
and  was  a missionary  in  Mexico  and  Guatemala  from  1625  to 
1637,  has  a caustic  word  to  say  about  these  monastic  retreats 
in  general,  and  El  Desierto  in  particular.  He  writes  of  the 
merry  life  of  some  of  these  alleged  hermits,  of  their  love  of 
leisure  and  repose,  their  feats  of  the  trencher,  their  fugitive 
interest  in  the  swish  of  a silken  kirtle,  and  their  devotion  to 
the  ‘purple  goddess  beloved  of  Bacchus’:  he  takes  but  little 
stock  in  the  humble,  downcast  eye,  the  clicking  rosary,  the 
contemplative  look,  and  the  barefoot  humility  which  attended 
these  rotund,  twinkling-eyed,  vinaceous  padres. 

An  old  inscription  still  visible  on  one  of  the  monastery  walls 
apprises  the  curious  that  his  Excellency,  Don  Juan  de  Men- 
doza, Illustrious  Marquis  of  Montes  Claros , Viceroy  of  this 
New  Spain,  laid  the  corner  stone  of  the  Desierto  monastery  on 
Jan.  21,  1606,  and  dedicated  the  building  to  Nuestra  Senora 
del  Monte  Carmelo . That  corner  stone  is  still  in  place,  and  the 
walls,  the  garden  and  the  cloister  still  exist  to  recall  those 
happy,  somnolent  days  of  no  income  taxes,  no  labor  unions, 
no  Ford  cars,  — and  no  guidebook  writers! 


352  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


The  Colegio  de  la  Paz  (so  called  in  honor  of  President 
Ignacio  Comonfort's  daughter),  popularly  known  as  Colegio 
de  las  Vizcainas  (PI.  G,  5),  by  reason  of  its  foundation  by 
three  rich  Bizcayan  merchants  of  Mexico  City  in  1732,  is  like- 
wise known  as  the  Colegio  de  San  Ignacio  (de  Loyola),  to 
whom  it  was  originally  dedicated,  and  by  whose  name  it  was 
originally  called.  The  handsome  chapel  is  still  known  by  this 
title.  The  old  structure,  in  the  severe  Baroque  style,  — almost 
a counterpart  of  the  great  Colegio  de  San  Ildefonso,  — is  one 
of  the  sturdiest  and  most  impressive  relics  of  Spanish  Colonial 
times  to  be  found  in  the  Mexican  capital.  The  great  building, 
with  a frontage  (on  the  Calle  de  las  Vizcainas ) of  nearly  500  feet, 
covers  an  area  of  nearly  25,000  yards,  and  commands  atten- 
tion by  its  giant  bulk,  and  by  the  irregularity  of  its  walls; 
portions  of  which  have  sunk  far  below  the  pavement.  By 
facing  the  edifice  and  running  the  eye  down  the  W.  side,  then 
along  the  front  from  r.  to  1.,  one  gets  a fair  idea  of  how  the 
foundation  of  this  tremendously  heavy  building  has  sunk  into 
the  yielding  soil.  Some  of  the  huge  walls  are  many  feet  thick. 
The  small  cubes  of  red-stained  tezontle,  of  which  they  are 
built,  formed  the  favorite  construction  material  in  the  capital 
in  the  17th  and  18th  centuries.  This  one-time  beautiful 
building  (which  cost  over  one  million  pesos  to  construct) 
now  stands  in  an  unsavory  neighborhood  whose  emphatic 
quality  is  dirt.  A number  of  tawdry  little  shops  and  factories 
(the  annual  rental  from  which  yields  an  income  of  about  six 
thousand  pesos)  pierce  the  sides  and  rear  of  the  Colegio  and 
give  the  exterior  the  appearance  of  a prison  or  a factory. 
Hard  by  the  immense  central  court  of  the  interior  are  six 
smaller  patios,  with  many  corridors  and  arches.  Albeit  the 
huge  building  possesses  many  quaint  windows,  gargoyles 
and  whatnot,  the  malodorous  surroundings  detract  from  a 
visit.  The  schools  are  deserving  institutions.  In  the  rear 
of  the  huge  structure  is  the  Plaza  de  las  Vizcainas. 

One  square  E.  of  the  Colegio  de  la  Paz,  in  the  old  Parroquia 
de  la  Regina,  and  flanking  the  odoriferous  plazwela  of  the 
same  name  (Pl.G;  5),  is  the  dilapidated,  but  once  magnificent 
Church  of  la  Regina  Cceli  (Queen  of  Heaven),  erected  in  1573  by 
the  Concepcionistas , to  whom  is  also  due  the  newer  Hospital  de 
Concepcion  Beistegui , next  door  on  the  E.  The  attractive  old 
tile  inset  in  the  tower  wall,  though  now  in  a ruinous  state, 
is  sufficiently  intact  to  acquaint  the  traveller  with  the  date  of 
its  foundation,  of  the  fact  that  its  erection  was  sanctioned  by 
a Pontifical  decree  of  Pope  Gregorio  XIII,  through  a Nuncio 
Apostolico  of  June  9,  1578,  and  of  the  august  celebration  which 
in  1773  commemorated  the  second  centenary  of  its  existence; 
giving  also  the  names  of  some  of  the  prelates  who  took  a prom- 
inent part.  The  allegorical  bas-relief  work  above  the  E.  en- 
trance is  fast  crumbling  to  decay.  The  one-time  attractive, 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  353 


but  now  tawdry,  interior  is  interesting  chiefly  for  a dozen  or 
more  splendid  old  gilded  Churrigueresque  altars  and  reredos , 
each  with  a maze  of  figures  and  figurines,  and  with  many 
small  paintings,  some  copied  after  the  style  of  the  Murillo 
School.  The  best  of  these  reredos  is  at  the  main  altar,  at  the 
W.  end  of  the  single  nave.  In  the  chapel  which  faces  the  en- 
trance are  three  reredos , and  over  the  entrance  is  an  inscrip- 
tion with  the  date  1733,  relating  to  the  dedication  of  the 
chapel.  The  tile  insets  in  the  red-stained  dome  are  attractive. 

El  Hospicio  de  Pobres  (Asylum  for  the  Poor),  a large  and 
imposing  structure  on  the  Tlalpan  car-line,  S.  of  the  Palacio 
National  (1  M.),  was  completed  in  1905  at  a cost  of  $1,400,000. 
It  was  founded  in  1765,  by  the  Precentor  Dr.  Fernando  Ortiz 
Cortes ; is  operated  on  non-sectarian  lines,  and  supported  by 
Government.  The  (1000)  pupils  are  taught  useful  arts  and 
trades.  Some  fine  specimens  of  needle-work  are  made  by  the 
girls.  The  institution  is  known  also  as  the  Hospicio  de  Ninos. 

North-East  Quarters  of  the  City. 

Church  and  Plaza  de  Santo  Domingo.  Escuela  Nacional  de  Me- 
dicina.  The  Inquisition.  Churches  of  La  Encarnacion,  Santa  Cata- 
lina de  Sena,  Santa  Catarina  Martir,  San  Antonio  Tepito,  El  Car- 
men, Santiago  Tlaltelolco,  Santa  Ines,  Santa  Teresa  la  Antigua. 
Escuela  Nacional  Preparatoria  ( San  Ildefonso) ; Escuela  de  Juris- 
prudence. Church  of  Nuestra  Senora  de  Loreto.  Ch.  of  Santa 
Teresa  la  Nueva.  Casa  de  Moneda.  Churches  of  Jesus  Maria,  La 
Santisima  Trinidad,  La  Soledad  de  Santa  Cruz.  The  San  Lazaro 
District.  La  Penitenciaria. 

Following  the  1°,  2a  and  3a  Calles  de  Santo  Domingo  which 
extend  northward  (9  squares  to  the  Ave.  Peralvillo)  from  the 
N.-W.  corner  of  the  Plaza  Mayor , we  come  to  a long,  narrow 
plazuela  at  the  farthest  end  of  which  stands  (PI.  H,  3)  the 
Church  of  Santo  Domingo,  all  that  now  remains  of  the  one- 
time great  monastery  and  central  Church  of  the  Dominican 
Order  in  New  Spain.  This  order,  founded  in  Tolosa,  Spain,  by 
Santo  Domingo  de  Guzman,  and  approved  by  Pope  Honorius 
III  , in  1223,  was  extended  to  Mexico  by  the  missionary  monks 
of  the  order,  who  reached  Mexico  from  Hispaniola  June  23, 
1526.  The  first  building  erected  for  them  was  on  the  site  of 
the  present  College  of  Medicine,  immediately  across  the  street 
from  the  present  ch.  In  1530  a monastery  was  built  on  land 
adjoining  the  ch.  on  the  W.,  and  both  were  destroyed  by  the 
great  inundation  of  1716.  When  the  present  ch.  was  com- 
pleted (at  a cost  of  $200,000)  and  dedicated,  Aug.  3,  1736, 
it  was  considered  the  finest  structure  in  the  city.  It  is  still 
regarded  as  one  of  the  best  examples  of  Baroque  architecture 
in  Mexico.  Enclosed  within  the  high  wall,1  which  once  sur- 

1 The  fine  old  Claustro  was  built  after  the  Italian  style  and  was  one  of 
the  handsomest  of  its  kind  in  New  Spain.  The  walls  were  adorned  with  a 
splendid  collection  of  paintings,  by  Miguel  Cabrera , representing  scenes 
in  the  life  of  Santo  Domingo.  Several  Autos-de-Fe  were  celebrated  in  the 
Santo  Domingo  cloister  by  the  Inquisition. 


354  Route  1$. 


MEXICO  CITY 


rounded  it,  was  a fine  chapel  (dedicated  Feb.  19, 1757),  known 
as  the  Tercer  Orden  de  Santo  Dom  ingo , and  a Capitta  del  Rosario , 
both  long  since  demolished.  The  former  was  the  work  of 
Lorenzo  Rodriguez , and  was  a fine  example  of  the  Churriguer - 
esque.  The  pretty  garden  which  faces  the  ch.  once  formed  a 
portion  of  the  immense  atrium. 

The  still  stately  fagade,  quaint  tower  and  fine  dome  show 
to  good  advantage  against  the  green  of  the  palms  and  flowers. 
The  edifice  is  constructed  of  a porous  amygdaloid,  stained 
a light  wine  red,  — a favorite  color  with  early  Spanish  archi- 
tects. The  half- obliterated  figures  and  minor  sculptures  of 
the  fagade,  as  far  as  they  have  survived  the  riots  which  fol- 
lowed the  Reform  Laws,  are  good  examples  of  Spanish  crafts- 
manship. Ex-votos,  jubilee-circulars,  notices  of  difunciones 
and  whatnot,  adorn  the  massive  carved  wmod  doors  and  the 
time-stained  buttresses.  The  general  appearance  of  the  edi- 
fice is  one  of  great  age.  A small  tendajon  (shop)  has  burrowed 
its  wav,  like  a cancerous  growth,  into  the  W.  corner  beneath 
the  tower,  and  a commonplace,  narrow  secular  structure  runs 
the  length  of  the  W.  side.  The  fine  bells  which  once  hung  in 
the  now  tottering  campanario  were  removed  after  the  passage 
of  the  Reform  Laws.  The  tile-covered  cimborio  — visible  from 
a great  distance — is  the  most  conspicuous  feature  of  the  church . 
Its  windows  let  a flood  oflightonthe  main  altar  and  the  tran- 
septs. The  cruciform  and  finely  proportioned  interior  is  lighted 
by  many  stained  glass  windows  of  modern  make.  The  lofty 
Roman  vault  which  springs  from  the  single  huge  nave  is 
borne  by  16  fluted  Corinthian  pilasters,  decorated  in  white 
and  gold. 

We  enter  beneath  the  huge  organ  loft;  the  first  chapel  on 
the  left  is  that  of  the  Corazon  de  Jesus,  nearly  always  closed. 
The  2d,  of  Santa  Ana;  3d,  De  la i SanUsima  Trinidad,  and  the 
4th,  one  of  the  most  ornate  in  the  church,  the  Capilla  del 
Rosario.  This  chapel,  erected  to  replace  the  one  severed  from 
the  church  by  the  opening  of  a street  through  the  monastery 
grounds,  is  the  most  revered.  The  walls  are  covered  with  gilt 
fleur-de-lvs,  and  the  ceiling  with  a painting  of  the  Virgin  sur- 
rounded by  cherubim.  Adjacent  is  the  Capilla  de  los  Dolores , 
and  beyond  this  is  the  Chapel  of  El  Santo  Cristo  del  Noviciado . 
We  now  come  to  the  fine  Altar  de  Covadonga ; a richly  carved 
mass  of  wood  in  the  Churriguer  esque  style,  with  many  paint- 
ings, figurines  and  sculptures  in  the  recesses,  which  fills  the 
end  of  the  transept  and  dates  from  the  erection  of  the  church. 
The  retention  of  these  fine  specimens  of  Churriguera's  singular 
art  gives  an  idea  of  what  the  old-time  splendor  of  the  ch.  must 
have  been.  The  pictures  have  only  their  antiquity  to  recom- 
mend them ; the  saints  are  carved  in  the  bold  but  crude  manner 
characteristic  of  the  early  Spanish  craftsmen.  We  follow  the 
altar  railing  ( comulgatorio ),  pass  through  a small  door  and  on 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  355 


beneath  two  low  arches  to  a huge  carved  wood  door  leading 
into  the  sacristy  — immediately  behind  the  altar  mayor. 
Here  the  sacristan  exhibits  a number  of  huge  paintings  of  no 
artistic  value,  and  a fairly  good  picture  of  the  Crucifixion  and 
of  San  Ildefonso  — painters  unknown.  The  two  heavily  carved 
Spanish  chairs,  upholstered  in  faded  silk,  are  used  on  special 
occasions,  and  only  by  high  church  functionaries. 

We  reenter  the  ambulatory  and  pass  in  front  of  the  main 
altar,  which  is  in  a semicircular  sanctuary  enclosed  by  a 
chancel  railing,  and  reached  by  a short  flight  of  steps.  On 
either  side  are  life-size  figures  of  angels,  resting  on  masses  of 
clouds  and  flanked  by  overdressed  figures  beneath  canopies. 
The  superstructure  is  borne  by  four  massive  cream-colored 
Corinthian  columns  with  gilt  capitals  and  bases.  A Cristo  rest- 
ing on  a silver  cloud,  backed  by  a golden  sunburst,  and 
adorned  with  cherubim  heads,  is  the  central  figure.  Six  tall 
Corinthian  columns  and  several  figures  of  the  Apostles  add  an 
inharmonious  mass  of  color  to  an  ensemble  which  bears  the 
stamp  of  mediocrity. 

The  left  transept  is  filled  by  the  huge  gilded  Altar  del 
Sagrario , a companion  piece  to  the  one  opposite.  It  is  Chur - 
rigueresque ; with  a wealth  of  rich  carving,  figurines,  paintings 
and  relics.  Many  gilt  lamps  swing  before  these  altars,  which 
a^re  rarely  free  from  the  smoke  of  burning  candles.  Adjacent 
is  the  Camilla  de  Santa  Juana  de  Aza.  Following  this  is  the 
C.  de  la  Luz.  Crossing  the  exit  leading  to  the  Ccdle  del  Sepul- 
cro  de  Santo  Domingo , we  come  to  the  Capilla  de  Santo  Tomas 
de  Aquino , wherein  one  may  sometimes  see  a large  glass  case 
containing  a seated  figure  of  Christ,  — an  anguished,  sangui- 
nary and  thoroughly  saddening  spectacle.  The  next  chapel, 
dedicated  to  La  Virgen  de  Guadalupe , contains  five  interesting 
pictures  of  the  Virgin,  as  she  appeared  to  Juan  Diego  (p.  394). 
The  next,  and  last,  is  the  C hurrigueresque  chapel  of  San  J ose, 
with  very  elaborate  carvings. 

Above  the  confessionals  are  life-size  figures,  on  huge  brack- 
ets, of  Santa  Catalina  de  Sena;  S.  Raimundo;  S.  Catalina  Rizi; 
S.  Gonzalo;  S.  Jacinto;  S.  Antonio  and  others.  The  stained 
glass  windows  of  the  clerestory  are  all  modern.  The  color 
tone  of  the  interior  is  magenta,  which  imparts  an  odd  aspect. 

The  most  curious  object  in  the  church  is  the  Santo  Entierro 
(holy  interment) , a life-size,  recumbent  Cristo  with  the  head, 
arms  and  feet  showing  : the  latter  of  brown  ivory  with  white 
nails.  This  figure  (of  undoubted  antiquity)  is  wheeled  about 
the  church,  and  at  times  is  placed  in  certain  of  the  capillas. 
It  is  much  venerated,  and  the  feet  are  kissed  smooth  in  places. 
Before  the  Reform  Laws  prohibited  religious  street  processions, 
it  was  the  custom  to  convey  this  figure,  at  the  head  of  a multi- 
tude, on  Good  Friday,  to  the  church  of  La  Concepcion.  It  has  a 
counterpart  in  the  shrine  of  the  Sacro  Monte  at  Amecameca. 


356  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Inquisition, 


The  CapiUa  del  Senor  de  la  Expiation,  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
Plazuela  de  Santo  Domingo,  is  a dependency  of  the  church, 
and  formerly  stood  within  the  monastery  walls.  It  is  the 
chosen  shrine  of  certain  Indians,  and  the  visitor  is  apt  to 
unwittingly  carry  away  minute  entomological  specimens  which 
rightfully  belong  to  them.  The  chapel  contains  nothing  of 
interest;  the  altar  is  a mass  of  incongruous  coloring,  and  is 
often  so  smothered  in  flowers  that  their  fragrance  is  almost 
overpowering.  The  credulous  believe  the  Dominicans  buried 
much  treasure  beneath  the  church  before  the  passage  of  the 
Reform  Laws,  and  many  excavations  have  been  made  in  ef- 
forts to  locate  it.  The  ch.  walls  were  badly  cracked  by  the 
earthquake  of  April,  1907. 

The  Plazuela  de  Santo  Domingo,  better  known  as  the 
Jardin  de  la  Corregidora  Dominguez  (because  of  the  bronze 
figure  of  this  heroine  which  adorns  it),  was  long  called  the 
Jardin  Juarez , and  is  yet  spoken  of  by  this  name.  It  is  one 
of  the  oldest  of  the  city  plazas;  the  portales  (on  the  west),  with 
their  22  time-stained  columns,  were  erected  in  the  time  of  the 
early  Viceroys.  A number  of  patriotic  Mexicans  were  shot  here 
during  the  French  intervention.  The  Guadalupe  tram-cars 
stop  near  the  church. 

The  Escuela  Nacional  de  Medicina  (National  School  of 
Medicine),  opposite  the  church  and  plaza  of  Santo  Domingo, 
faces  the  street  formerly  called  Sepulero  (sepulchre)  de 
Santo  Domingo.  The  building  (open  all  day,  free  to  visitors) 
which  houses  the  School  of  Medicine  was  erected  1732-36  as  the 
Tribunal  del  Santo  Oficio  (Holy  Office  of  the  Inquisition)  on 
the  site  of  the  first  Dominican  convent  built  in  Mexico.  It 
was  long  the  headquarters  of  this  detestable  organization,  and 
many  of  the  rooms  were  used  as  cells  for  victims.  The  edi- 
fice contains  a fine  amphitheatre,  a very  ample  and  quaint 
patio,  an  observatory,  and  a biblioteca  with  about  3,000 
volumes,  mostly  in. Spanish.  Mexicans  have  a particular  rev- 
erence for  this  house  (often  referred  to  as  the  Casa  Chata  — flat- 
nosed house  — on  account  of  its  rounded  front)  because  the 
celebrated  Mexican  poet  Manuel  Acuna  (comp.  p.  clx)  poi- 
soned himself  here  (Dec.  6,  1873)  over  a love-affair.  Note  the 
curious  architectural  feature  of  the  patio,  the  corner  pillars, 
or  supports  of  the  upper  cloister  being  missing. 

The  Inquisition,  or  Tribunal  del  Santo  Oficio,  a Spanish  institution 
founded  about  1480  by  Tomas  de  Torquemada  (its  first  Inquisitor  General), 
began  active  work  in  the  Spanish  Peninsula  about  1481.  According  to  the 
best  authorities,  from  that  date  to  1808,  it  burned  34,612  persons  alive, 
18,048  in  effigy,  and  imprisoned  288,109,  — the  goods  and  chattels  of 
every  one  of  these  being  duly  confiscated. 

The  Dominicans  founded  the  Holy  Office  in  Mexico  City  in  1571.  The 
royal  order  authorizing  it  was  issued  Aug.  16,  1570.  Pedro  Moya  de  Con- 
treras was  the  first  Inquisitor  General  of  New  Spain  (Mexico),  Guatemala 
and  the  Philippine  Islands,  with  headquarters  in  Mexico  City.  The 
Indians  were  exempted  from  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Santo  Oficio,  whose 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route . 357 


tremendous  powers  were  exercised  against  all  unbelievers.  The  principal 
crimes  punished  by  the  society  were  heresy,  sorcery,  polygamy,  seduc- 
tion and  imposture.  Death  by  burning  was  the  penalty  inflicted  upon 
those  whose  opinions  were  at  variance  with  those  of  the  church  or  its 
instruments.  Where  the  crime  was  of  a mild  nature  the  victims  were 
strangled  before  being  burned.  So  terrific  were  the  powers  of  this  alleged 
Holy  Office  that  the  Spanish  Viceroys  in  New  Spain  trembled  before  its 
mandates.  One  redoubtable  Viceroy,  when  called  before  the  officers  of 
the  Inquisition,  took  the  precaution  of  going  with  a strong  body-guard  of 
soldiers,  and  of  advising  the  Inquisitor  that  his  men  had  orders  to  attack 
the  place  if  he,  the  Viceroy,  did  not  re- appear  on  the  street  in  a given  time. 
The  first  Auto-de-Fe  was  celebrated  in  Mexico  City  in  1574,  and  21  per- 
sons perished.  The  last  victim  was  the  revolutionary  patriot  and  hero 
General  Jose  Maria  Marelos , who,  after  being  tortured  by  the  inquisitors 
as  “ an  unconfessed  heretic,  an  abetter  of  heretics,  a disturber  of  the  ec- 
clesiastical hierarchy,  a profaner  of  the  holy  sacraments,  a traitor  to  God, 
to  the  King  and  to  the  Pope,”  was  shot  (by  the  royalists)  Dec.  22,  1815. 

El  Templo  de  Nuestra  Senora  de  la  Encarnacion 
flanks  the  4a  Calle  de  Donceles  (PI.  H.  4),  and  was  erected  for 
the  once  powerful  and  wealthy  nuns  of  the  Order  of  the  Con- 
cepcionistas ; established  in  Mexico  in  1593.  It  was  begun  Dec. 
18,  1639,  and  completed  Mch.  7,  1648,  and  when  dedicated 
its  pomp  and  splendor  attracted  the  attention  of  all  the  city, 
and  the  structure  was  considered  one  of  the  finest  that  had 
been  erected  in  the  Colonial  metropolis.  The  one-time  fine 
cloister  adjoining  was  added  more  than  a century  later  (1790), 
and  until  recent  times  it  was  considered  one  of  the  show 
places  of  the  city.  When  this  convent  and  church  were  secu- 
larized by  the  Reform  Law  edict,  the  church  holdings  were 
found  to  be  over  one  million  pesos.  Many  splendid  pictures 
that  once  adorned  the  walls  w'ere  removed  to  the  Academia 
de  San  Carlos,  described  at  p.  308.  The  faded  Assumption 
of  the  Virgin  over  the  entrance  to  the  chapel  beneath  the 
organ  loft  is  a relic  of  better  days.  The  several-times  reno- 
vated interior  of  the  ch.  shows  all  the  symptoms  of  the  decline 
of  art  as  applied  to  ecclesiastical  edifices.  The  darksome  sacristy 
has  a dado  of  blue  and  white  tiles  that  is  an  interesting  relic 
of  the  early  adornment  of  the  ch.  The  time-stained  facade, 
with  its  massive  boss-studded  doors  and  rich  carving,  is  a 
good  specimen  of  the  17th  cent.  work.  The  allegorical  subject 
carved  in  bas-relief  above  the  E.  portal  represents  the  mar- 
tyrdom of  San  Lorenzo.  That  over  the  W.  entrance  depicts 
a scene  in  the  fife  of  the  Virgin.  The  profusely  decorated 
dome,  wnth  religious  inscriptions  in  tile-work,  and  the  belfry 
in  the  Mudejar  style  are  both  quaint  and  attractive. 

The  Church  of  Santa  Catalina  de  Sena  (PL  H,  4),  on  the 
8a  Calle  del  Relox  (3  squares  N.  from  the  Cathedral),  has  been 
so  clipped  and  reduced  that  but  a small  portion  of  the  origi- 
nal structure  remains.  It  was  primarily  a conventual  ch., 
erected  (Aug.  15,  1615,  dedicated  Mch.  7,  1623)  by  the  efforts 
of  certain  women  of  the  Dominican  faith,  and  when  the  fine 
old  Jesuit  College  of  San  Ildefonso,  hard  by,  and  the  then 


358  Route  J^2. 


MEXICO  CITY 


beautiful  convent  and  ch.  of  La  Encarnacion  were  at  the  ze- 
nith of  their  wealth  and  popularity,  it  formed  one  of  the  trinity 
that  was  a power  in  New  Spain.  Relics  of  its  former  greatness 

— and  the  chief  sights  of  the  interior  — are  the  still  fine 
Churrigueresque  altars  and  reredos ; now  somewhat  marred 
by  time.  Tiie  reredo  which  occupies  the  N.  end  of  the  single 
nave  is  the  finest  of  the  three.  The  many  santos  in  high  relief, 
and  the  score  or  more  medallion  paintings  almost  hidden  in 
the  maze  of  carving  and  gilding,  are  not  without  interest.  On 
the  S.  wall  is  a large,  unframed  painting,  La  Virgen  del 
Rosario  y La  Comunidad,  which  is  attributed  to  Eduardo 
de  Tresguerras  (p.  cliii).  The  convent  was  suppressed  by  the 
Reform  Laws,  and  the  present  ch.,  with  its  air  of  tawdry  de- 
corum, promises  soon  to  go  the  way  of  those  which  20th  cen- 
tury utilitarianism  considers  a bar  to  commercial  expansion. 

Two  squares  N.  of  the  Plaza  de  Santo  Domingo  is  the  dilapi- 
dated Church  of  Santa  Catarina  Martir  (Pl.H,  3),  which 
stands  upon  the  site  (6th  Calle  de  Santo  Domingo)  of  a more 
primitive  ch.,  and  was  dedicated  in  1662.  The  foot  stone  of 
the  Santa,  who  stands  in  a niche  above  the  entrance,  bears  a 
carved  date,  1667.  When  the  ecclesiastical  property  was 
secularized,  this  ch.  was  found  to  be  one  of  the  wealthiest  in 
the  capital.  It  is  now  but  a shadow  of  its  former  greatness, 
and  is  scarcely  worth  visiting. 

San  Antonio  Tepito,  facing  the  Plaza  de  Tepito  (PL  H.  2), 
in  a neighborhood  where  soap  is  made,  but  apparently  never 
used,  is  now  the  chosen  temple  of  a class  whose  artistic  sense 
is  atrophied.  The  santos  of  the  tumble-down  little  chapel 
are  physical  wrecks,  and  the  place  is  not  worth  visiting. 

NuestraSenora  del  Carmen  (PI.  H,  3),  a very  old  church 
facing  the  Plaza  del  Carmen  (dates  from  about  1590)  with 
a new  facade  and  a bizarre  dome  with  blue,  white  and  yellow 
tiles  (in  the  M udcjar  style)  that  serves  as  a landmark  in  the 
neighborhood,  was  erected  by  members  of  the  Carmelite  order 
and  was  redecorated  in  1908.  Its  spick-and-span  appearance 

— heightened  by  the  neat  little  circular  garden  facing  it  — 
forms  a bright  spot  in  a somewhat  frowsy  neighborhood.  The 
wheel  window  below  the  clock  is  one  of  the  few  of  its  kind  to 
be  seen  in  Mexican  churches.  The  Catalonian  campanario  is 
quaint.  The  interior  of  the  ch.  is  noteworthy  for  its  white 
marble  altars.  The  new  and  neat  plazuela,  which  stands  just 
to  the  E.  with  its  palms  and  parterres  of  flowers,  is  indicative 
of  the  civic  movement  toward  cleansing  the  hitherto  unsightly 
spots  of  the  capital.  The  feast  day  of  Our  Lady  of  Carmen 
is  usually  observed  in  this  ch.  with  special  ceremonies.  The 
large,  factory-like  building  to  the  E.  of  the  ch.  is  the  Pablo 
Moreno  primary  school. 

The  Church  of  Santiago  Tlaltelolco  (Pl.G,  2),  in  the 
yards  of  the  National  Railways  of  Mexico,  at  the  Santiago 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route . 359 


custom-house  ( aduana ),  was  one  of  the  first “ domed  churches  ” 
to  be  erected  in  New  Spain.  Dating  from  about  1543,  it  was 
long  the  centre  of  an  Indian  parroquia  where  certain  of  the 
disciples  of  Fray  Pedro  de  Gante  taught  the  Indians  ‘‘Latin, 
logic  and  philosophy.”  At  one  time  the  ch.  contained  a stone 
font  in  which  it  was  claimed  Juan  Diego  was  baptized.  The  old 
school  is  now  used  as  a government  barrack  and  the  ch.  as  a 
storehouse  for  baled  cotton. 

The  Church  of  Santa  Inks  (PI.  H,  4),  on  the  corner  of  the 
2a  Calle  de  Moneda  and  the  la  Academia,  diagonally  across 
from  the  San  Carlos  Academy , founded  in  1600  (dedicated 
Jan.  20, 1770)  by  the  nuns  of  the  C oncepcidnistas  as  a convent, 
is  the  customary  type  of  conventual  ch.  in  Mexico,  — a long, 
single  nave,  with  barrel-arched  vaulting.  The  interior,  newly 
decorated  and  reached  through  two  entrances,  is  uninteresting. 
The  massive  wood  doors,  carved  in  low  relief,  represent  scenes 
from  the  legend  of  Santa  Inez , and  suggest  bronze  treatment. 
Yellow  and  blue  strips  of  glazed  tiles  ornament  the  dome. 
After  the  suppression  of  the  convent,  the  ch.  was  dis- 
mantled and  closed  for  two  decades.  It  was  re-opened  June 
11,  1883. 

In  the  short  and  narrow  Calle  Lie.  Verdad  (PL  H,  4),  which 
leads  N.  from  the  Calle  de  Moneda  and  intersects  it  at  the  N. 
side  of  the  Palacio  National , stands  the  one-time  magnificent, 
and  still  very  imposing,  Church  of  Santa  Teresa  la  Antigua 
(not  to  be  confounded  with  S.  T.  la  Nueva  referred  to  at 
p.  363),  begun  Oct.  8, 1678,  and  completed  and  dedicated  Sept. 
10,  1684.  It  owes  its  origin  to  certain  members  of  the  Car- 
melite Order  of  Santa  Teresa , which  was  established  (at 
Puebla)  in  New  Spain  in  1604.  The  important  dome  was  erected 
near  the  end  of  the  18th  cent.,  by  Don  Antonio  Gonzalez 
Velasquez , who  came  from  Spain  as  the  first  professor  of  ar- 
chitecture for  the  San  Carlos  Academy  of  Fine  Arts.  The 
critical  traveller  will  not  fail  to  note  the  tipsy  character  of  the 
structure,  the  rear  of  which  is  sunken  and  is  lower  than  the 
fagade.  The  impression  one  receives  is  that  the  church  is  arch- 
ing backward  in  pained  surprise  at  sight  of  the  new  structures 
opposite,  and  at  the  general  air  of  progress  noticeable  in  the 
neighborhood.  The  old  gargoyles  and  star  windows  are  quaint 
and  attractive.  Of  the  two  entrances  the  S.  one  is  most  used. 
The  interior  is  gloomy,  but  this  is,  in  a measure,  offset  by  the 
general  air  of  elegance  noted  in  the  fine  chapel  of  El  Senor  de 
Santa  Teresa , with  its  many  pictures,  rich  decorations  (modern) 
and  marbled  altar.  The  sacristy  (at  the  r.)  reminds  one  of  a 
new  bank  office.  The  interior  of  the  shapely  dome  can  be 
studied  to  good  advantage  from  this  chapel.  The  large  picture 
on  the  r.  wall  (notable  for  its  good  color)  is  a copy  of  the 
Transfiguration  by  Rafael.  The  companion  picture,  on  the  N. 
wall,  a copy  of  Titian’s  Assumption , is  by  the  same  painter,  J . 


360  Route  42.  MEXICO  CITY  San  Ildefonso. 

Cordero , and  both  date  from  1857.  As  the  Sacred  Wafer  is 
kept  on  the  altar  beneath  the  last-named  painting,  visitors  are 
not  expected  to  pass  behind  the  railing. 

The  most  venerated  object  in  the  ch.  is  a crucifix  alleged 
to  have  been  brought  from  Spain  in  1545  and  placed  in  a 
ch.  in  a ruining  town  (Cardonal)  in  the  state  of  Hidalgo, 
where  it  was  known  as  El  Santo  Cristo  de  Cardonal.  Time 
destroyed  its  charm  and  it  was  cast  into  the  flames  — which 
refused  to  consume  it.  It  was  then  buried,  but  on  being  dug 
up  later  it  was  found  uninjured,  and,  w*hat  was  more  marvel- 
lous, restored,  in  a measure,  to  its  pristine  beauty.  Convinced 
that  a miracle  had  been  performed,  the  Archbishop  of  Mex- 
ico, Juan  Perez  de  la  Serna,  caused  the  crucifix  to  be  cherished, 
and  in  1634,  his  successor,  Francisco  Manzo  de  Zuniga , 
erected  a chapel  for  its  safe-keeping.  Later,  when  it  was  re- 
moved to  Mexico  City,  the  people  of  Cardonal  showed  that 
they  had  been  but  little  benefited  by  the  divine  example,  for 
they  pummelled,  and  so  battered,  the  ambassador,  that  he 
was  obliged  to  retire  to  the  hospital.  The  fame  of  the  image 
was  increased  by  these  happenings,  and  its  cult  became  so 
great  that  the  present  church  of  Santa  Teresa  was  built  for 
its  accommodation.  The  splendid  dome,  the  chancel,  and 
part  of  the  vaulted  roof  were  badly  shattered  by  the  earth- 
quake of  April  7,  1845,  and  a fine  and  curious  fresco  by  Rafael 
Jimeno  — representing  the  fight  between  the  archbishop’s 
henchmen  and  the  populacho  of  Cardonal  — was  unfortu- 
nately destroyed.  Singularly  enough,  the  miraculous  crucifix 
was  considerably  damaged.  Note  the  semi-circular  painting, 
The  Coronation  of  the  Virgin,  on  the  N.  w*all  of  the  nave,  above 
the  organ  loft.  Unsigned  and  undated. 

The  Escuela  Nacional  Preparatoria  (National  Prepara- 
tory Military  School),  housed  in  the  fine  old  Colegio  de  San 
Jldefonso  (PI.  H,  4),  in  the  2°  calle  of  the  same  name,  is  one  of 
the  most  attractive  edifices  of  its  class  in  the  city.  It  is  an  un- 
usually massive  structure,  very  large  and  long,  in  the  severe 
Baroque  style,  with  two  splendid  patios  and  a facade  of  te- 
zontlc  stained  a light  wine-red.  It  wTas  completed  (by  the  Jes- 
uits) in  1740  at  a cost  of  S400,000.  It  covers  nearly  an  entire 
city  block,  and  the  two  huge,  mediaeval-looking  doors,  and 
the  forty  or  more  quaint  windows  wilich  pierce  the  facade, 
make  it  highly  interesting.  The  double  doors  of  the  W.  section, 
wherein  is  the  Gov’t  school  for  boys,  are  high,  finely  carved 
in  low*  relief,  and  swmng,  like  all  those  of  the  early  buildings 
of  this  class,  on  massive  pivots,  let  into  soffits  in  the  floor 
and  ceiling.  The  doors  are  wide  enough  to  admit  a trolley- 
car.  Over  the  entrance  is  a handsome  allegorical  tablet  in 
white  marble.  By  passing  through  the  zaguan  and  into  the 
patio  (no  fees)  one  can  sometimes  see  the  students  at  drill. 
This  cloistered  court  is  a fine  example  of  the  old-style,  colon- 


MEXICO  CITY  42.  Route.  361 

naded  patio  which,  though  distinctively  Moorish,  is  credited 
by  many  writers  to  the  early  Aztec  builders. 

The  E.  end  of  the  building,  with  its  cloister,  is  less  attractive 
than  the  W.  end.  Albeit  the  carved  wood  doors  are  made  to 
represent  their  counterparts  at  the  W.  end,  they  are  new  and 
date  from  1907.  They  are  much  smaller  than  the  other  doors, 
and  are  surmounted  by  allegorical  figures,  and  encased  in  a 
very  good  example  of  a reconstructed  Baroque  archway.  A 
long  line  of  plain  gargoyles  runs  the  length  of  the  roof  of  the 
structure,  and  on  a rainy  day  the  streams  which  spout  from 
them  to  the  street  give  the  effect  of  scores  of  tiny  water- 
falls. 

The  silleria  in  the  Sala  de  Adas  once  formed  the  choir-stalls 
in  the  old  San  Agustin  church,  now  the  Biblioteca  Nacional. 
Mr.  Baxter  considers  “ these  exquisitely  beautiful  choir  stalls 
(somewhat  damaged  by  time  and  neglect)  one  of  the  great 
artistic  sights  of  Mexico.  They  are  comparable  in  charm  to 
the  best  of  similar  work  in  Europe,  combining  the  rich  and 
graceful  character  of  the  F ree  Renaissance  with  something  of  the 
quaintly  naive  spirit  of  Gothic  carving.  Their  date  is  unknown, 
as  well  as  their  authorship,  but  they  probably  were  made  at 
the  time  of  the  dedication  of  the  ch.  in  1692.  That  they  were 
wrought  by  Mexican  hands  is  apparent  from  certain  touches 
of  local  color  in  various  reliefs  — such  as  the  depiction  of 
monkeys  and  other  tropical  animals  in  scenes  like  the  Garden 
of  Eden,  including  the  famous  Mexican  bird,  the  guacamayo. 
At  present  these  stalls  comprise  but  135  panels,  including  the 
one  with  the  beautiful  example  of  decorative  lettering  de- 
voted to  the  customary  Hinc  est  Chorus.  Beside  the  large 
arched  panels  in  each  stall,  there  is  a smaller  one  beneath, 
and  another  of  the  same  small  size  in  the  back  of  each  seat.  The 
bottom  of  every  seat,  which  shows  when  folded  up,  is  also 
carved  with  a handsome  design.  The  purely  ornamental 
carving  is  exceedingly  rich,  containing  many  charming  heads 
and  graceful  figures.  The  whole  design  is  excellent  in  form 
and  beautifully  proportioned.”  In  this  same  hall  of  Cere- 
monies are  two  great  mural  paintings  by  Jose  Antonio  Vallejo: 
the  Holy  Family , accompanied  by  angels,  bears  the  date  of 
1761.  The  Pentecost  of  like  dimensions,  occupying  the  wall 
on  the  right  in  what  was  formerly  the  sacristy,  but  is  now  a 
portion  of  the  library,  ranks  as  one  of  the  painter’s  best  works. 
It  shows  the  influence  of  Murillo  very  strongly. 

Like  many  .of  the  older  buildings  in  the  capital  this  one 
is  considerably  out  of  plumb.  It  owes  its  existence  to  an  order 
promulgated  by  the  General  of  the  Order  of  the  Jesuits  in 
Mexico  to  consolidate  their  several  existing  seminaries  into  one 
institution,  and  it  represents  the  amalgamation  of  the  old- 
time  colleges  of  San  Gregorio,  San  Miguel,  San  Bernardo  and 
San  Pedro  y San  Pablo.  The  commemorative  tablet  (placed 


362  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Loreto  Church. 


in  1907)  in  this  school  refers  to  one  of  the  first  Professors  of 
Chemistry,  Don  Leopoldo  Rio  de  la  Loza , who  taught  here 
between  1868  and  1872.  Beside  a full  modern  equipment 
the  school  possesses  a fine  collection  of  replicas  in  chalk  of  the 
sculptured  masterpieces  of  Michael  Angelo  in  the  palace  of 
the  Medicis  of  Florence ; also  a library  of  some  14,000  volumes, 
chiefly  for  the  school  work.  Across  the  street,  on  the  comer 
of  the  Calles  de  Relox  and  San  Ildefonso,  is  the  new  Escuela 
de  J urisprudencia  (School  of  Jurisprudence)  in  the  Greek  style, 
completed  in  1908  at  a cost  of  8250,000.  The  fine  Sala 
de  Adas,  on  the  2d  floor,  is  decorated  and  possesses  a hand- 
some silleria. 

The  Church  of  Nuestra  Senora  de  Loreto  (PI.  H,  4),  fac- 
ing the  long,  narrow  plazuela  of  the  same  name,  is  chiefly 
interesting  to  travellers  because  one  side  has  sunk  so  deep 
below  the  pavement  that  the  edifice  seems  ready  to  topple 
over  into  the  street.  It  was  begun  in  1809,  and  was  com- 
pleted and  dedicated  Aug.  29,  1816  (cost  8517,000),  under  the 
superintendence  of  the  celebrated  architect  Manuel  Tolsa,  in 
collaboration  with  A.  Paz.  Differences  of  opinion  with  the 
church  authorities  led  to  one  of  the  walls  being  constructed 
of  hard  stone,  the  other  of  porous  amygdaloid,  with  the  result 
that  soon  after  its  completion  it  began  to  sink,  — a fatality 
which  seemed  to  pursue  most  of  the  grandiose  works  of  Tolsa. 
The  tipsy  character  of  the  structure  so  alarmed  the  parish- 
ioners that  it  was  closed  from  1832  to  1850,  when  competent 
engineers  carefully  inspected  it  and  pronounced  it  safe. 
Though  now  in  a ruinous  state  the  ch.  is  still  the  best  example 
of  a distinctively  Jesuit  edifice  in  Mexico.  It  affords  — not 
exactly  to  its  financial  advantage  — a record  of  the  contempt 
of  fashion  and  commerce  for  things  ecclesiastical;  stranded,  as 
it  is,  in  a tawdry  and  grimy  neighborhood,  far  in  the  wake  of 
the  city  life  bent  on  its  westward  way.  The  untidy  shop 
plastered  to  its  E.  side  wall  awakens  thoughts  of  a cancer- 
ous growth  that  will  in  time  destroy  what  once  was  one  of 
the  finest  churches  of  the  Republic. 

From  a distance  the  uneven  character  of  the  structure  is 
particularly  striking.  The  dome  seems  to  smother  it  like  a 
gigantic  Phrygian  cap  or  a colossal  inverted  bowl.  The  plas- 
ter has  fallen  from  the  pillars  and  exposed  the  bricks  beneath, 
and  the  entire  building  is  the  victim  of  neglect.  The  rusty  iron 
grill  which  gives  entrance  is  usually  closed  after  10  a.  m.  ex- 
cept on  Sundays,  as  the  ch.  is  non-parochial  and  the  worship 
differs  from  that  of  the  parroquias.  The  sacristan  resides  in 
the  school  ( escuela ) at  the  house  number  14,  a few  doors  down 
the  street  to  the  left  (W.).  Small  fee  acceptable.  The  7 dilap- 
idated paintings  on  the  second  landing  of  t he  stair  leading  to  his 
abode  refer  to  episodes  in  the  life  of  St.  Ignatius.  We  enter 
the  ch.  through  the  school  yard. 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  363 


The  ch.  is  cruciform,  of  the  Doric  order,  with  four  rotundas 
that  are  substituted  for  the  minor  branches  of  the  Latin  cross. 
The  large  painting  above  the  entrance  to  the  Capilla  de  San 
Juan , through  which  we  pass,  is  of  the  Sagrada  Familia,  and 
is  unsigned.  In  this  chapel  there  is  also  an  indifferent  picture 
of  Our  Lady  of  Loreto.  On  the  pilaster  (left)  of  the  first  rotunda 
(opposite  the  pulpit)  is  a fine  San  Gregorio  (attributed  to  Joa- 
quin Esquivel)  which  once  hung  beneath  the  choir  loft.  There 
is  also  a St.  Joseph  and  San  Joaquin  and  a San  Ignacio  de 
Loyola , founder  of  the  Jesuit  Order.  In  the  second  rotunda 
is  an  Anunciacion  (by  Jose  Maria  Vasquez)  with  the  date 
1817,  and  another  San  Ignacio  de  Loyola , also  said  to  have 
been  painted  by  Esquivel.  The  principal  figure  of  the  main 
altar  is  the  much  venerated  figurine  of  Nuestra  Sehora  de 
Loreto , brought  from  Italy  by  a Jesuit  friar  in  1675.  The  silver 
crown  on  the  Virgin’s  head  resembles  an  inverted  cartridge. 

When  this  image  reached  Mexico  there  was  great  rejoicing  among  the 
confraternity,  and  the  persistent  — and  somewhat  contumacious  — 
monks  of  the  order  cast  about  for  a suitable  home  for  their  patroness. 
Many  vicissitudes  beset  them:  the  Dominicans  (founders  of  the  Inquisi- 
tion) opposed  them  strenuously;  they  came  into  conflict  with  the  Uni- 
versity ; their  order  was  on  the  eve  of  being  suppressed  (which  in  reality 
it  was  a century  later),  and  for  some  years  they  housed  their  much  ven- 
erated image  in  a little  chapel  built  on  the  site  of  the  baptistry  of  the  old 
ch.  of  San  Gregorio.  The  fame  of  the  image  spread,  and  in  1686  a larger 
chapel  was  built,  to  be  followed,  in  1738,  by  a still  larger  one. 

By  the  decree  of  the  Spanish  Cortes  of  June  25,  1767,  their  order  was 
suppressed,  but  it  was  reestablished  by  the  royal  order  of  Sept.  10, 
1815.  Ferdinand  VII  suppressed  it  again,  but  the  Mexican  President 
Santa  Anna  reestablished  it  in  Mexico,  by  a decree  dated  1853.  Its 
final  suppression  was  due  to  President  Ignacio  Comonfort,  who  issued  the 
order  June  7,  1856.  During  all  these  troublous  times  the  sturdy  monks 
lived  from  “ pillar  to  post” ; the  Loreto  Church  was  their  last  stronghold 
in  Mexico. 

The  two  mediocre  paintings  on  the  walls  of  the  high  altar 
are  Of  Jesus  and  Mary.  In  the  rotunda  to  the  right  of  this 
is  a large  picture  of  San  Ciro  Medico , Anacoreta  y Mdrtir. 
Th e Virgin  of  Guadalupe , in  the  centre,  is  attributed  to 
Cabrera.  To  the  right  is  a San  Gregorio  Papa,  of  good  color- 
ing, perhaps  the  work  of  Villalpando  or  one  of  his  pupils.  The 
central  picture  of  the  altar  in  the  4th  rotunda  is  known  as  La 
Virgen  del  Refugio . The  remaining  pictures  call  for  no  partic- 
ular mention. 

The  great  dome  which  rises  above  the  rotundas  was  once 
beautifully  decorated,  and  was  considered  the  finest  in  Mexico. 
It  is  still  thought  to  be  “the  grandest  in  style  and  proportion, 
of  the  city  churches.”  It  is  now  dilapidated  and  but  a simula- 
crum of  its  one-time  splendor.  The  interior  of  the  edifice  is 
so  out  of  plumb  that  a stiffish  earthquake  would  probably 
send  the  ch.  tumbling  to  the  ground.  The  allegorical  group 
of  the  fagade  is  interesting. 

The  Church  of  Santa  Teresa  la  Nueva  (called  the  new 


364  Route 


MEXICO  CITY 


Mint. 


to  distinguish  it  from  Santa  Teresa  la  Antigua,  described  at 
p.  359),  a Carmelite  foundation  dating  from  1701,  is  housed  in 
a huge,  fortress-like  building,  with  numerous  square  and  ob- 
long windows  overlooking  the  pretty,  flower-decked  Plazuela 
and  Jardin  de  Nuestra  Sefiorade  Loreto  (PL  H,  4) . The  primitive 
church  was  completed  and  dedicated  in  1716,  but  repeated 
renovations  have  damaged  it.  The  spruce  little  tower  at  the 
N.-W.  corner  is  modern.  The  sombre  red  paint  of  the  facade 
is  also  a recent  calamity.  The  one-time  splendid  interior  has 
suffered  such  remorseless  ‘‘improvements'’  that  it  is  now  of 
no  interest  to  the  traveller.  The  old  gargoyles  along  the  front 
resemble  ancient  blunderbusses,  and  are  attractive  relics  of 
Colonial  days;  they  point  westward  toward  the  modern  cap- 
ital like  menacing  fingers,  and  awaken  suggestions  of  inquisi- 
torial wrath  and  of  excommunications  against  the  progress 
which  has  left  this  one-time  Carmelite  stronghold  high,  dry 
and  almost  deserted  in  a decadent  neighborhood. 

The  church  is  rarely  open  on  week  days,  but  the  visitor  to 
the  barrio , though  he  be  denied  entrance,  is  often  repaid  for 
his  fit  tie  journey  by  the  sight  of  the  frolicsome  crowds  of 
happy  school-girls,  who  at  stated  intervals  pour  forth  from 
the  adjacent  (W.  side  of  the  plazuela)  Escuela  de  Nuestra 
Sehora  del  Pilar , and  spend  their  recess  in  the  sunny  little 
garden. 

Around  the  corner  from  the  ch.  and  plastered  against  it» 
eastern  side,  is  the  new  and  imposing  Cuartel  de  Infanteria , 
of  the  23d  Battalion. 

The  Mint,  or  Casa  de  Moneda,  in  the  5a  Calle  del  Apartado, 
near  the  S.-W.  corner  of  the  plazuela , is  referred  to  at  p.  xiii. 

The  Church  of  Jesus  Maria  (PL  H,  4),  founded  by  the 
Misioneros  del  Corazon  de  Maria  (in  the  3a  Calle  Jesus  Maria , 
2 squares  back  of  the  Pcdacio),  is  a massive,  squat  edifice  in 
the  so-called  Transition  style,  said  to  have  been  originally 
founded  as  a convent  to  be  known  as  Jesus  Maria . The  au- 
thorization for  this  establishment  was  given  by  Pope  Greg- 
ory XIII,  in  a papal  bull  dated  Jan.  21,  1578.  The  two  en- 
trances are  reached  through  a long  and  narrow  atrium  planted 
with  banana  and  other  trees.  The  corner-stone  of  the  existing 
church  was  laid  March  9,  1597,  and  the  ch.  was  dedicated 
Feb.  7,  1621.  The  Patron  of  the  institution  is  El  Nino  Per- 
dido 1 (the  lost  Child  — referring  to  Christ’s  visit  to  the  Doc- 
tors of  the  Church).  Symbolic  of  this  incident  is  the  fine 
painting  (name  of  painter  and  date  unknown)  that  fills  the 
great  arch  behind  the  aUar  mayor . There  is  reason  for  be- 
lieving that  this  is  the  work  of  Echave  the  Elder  (p.  cxlv), 

1 And  it  came  to  pass,  that  after  three  days  they  found  Him  in  the 
temple,  sitting  in  the  midst  of  the  doctors,  both  hearing  them,  and  asking 
them  questions.  And  all  that  heard  Him  were  astonished  at  His  under- 
standing and  answers.  — Luke  ii,  46-47. 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route . 365 


though  it  has  been  attributed  to  Cordero.  Its  splendid  color- 
ing and  excellent  technique  are  enhanced  by  comparison  with 
the  two  other  pictures  in  the  chancel.  Adorning  this  high 
altar  is  a handsome,  costly  and  undoubtedly  antique  candela- 
brum of  fire  gilt.  (As  a rule  similar  candelabra  are  of  wood 
covered  with  gold  leaf.)  The  modern  decorations  (the  work  of 
Daniel  del  Valle)  of  the  ch.  are  in  pleasing  colors.  Two  of 
the  handsome  canvases  in  the  sacristy  are  by  the  same  painter. 
One  of  these  (above  the  entrance)  represents  the  Virgin , the 
Child  Jesus  and  Fray  Antonio  Maria  Clarete,  founder  of  the 
order  of  Los  Misioneros  Hijos  del  Corazon  de  Maria.  The 
picture  on  the  left  wall,  distinguished  by  somewhat  glaring 
colors,  represents  Clarete  and  the  Hermanos  of  the  Order. 

The  striking  oval  picture  on  the  r.  wall  shows  the  young 
Cristo  debating  with  the  wise  men  in  the  temple.  The  name 
and  date  of  this  picture  are  lacking,  but  it  is  perhaps  by  the 
same  painter  who  did  the  big  one  over  the. high  altar.  The 
names  on  the  other  two  pictures  are  misleading,  as  they  refer 
to  the  patrons  who  paid  for  the  work.  The  little  capilla 
through  which  we  pass  to  enter  the  sacristy  is  very  showy, 
with  many  electric  lights  and  a contrivance  for  allowing  water 
to  ripple  over  the  stones.  Hundreds  of  electric  lamps  aid  in 
the  illumination  of  the  main  body  of  the  ch.  The  modern 
stained  glass  windows  are  chiefly  of  German  make.  Those 
in  the  panels  of  the  doors  are  Mexican.  One  or  two  of  the  old 
wheel  windows  which  admit  light  to  the  nave  are  worthy  of 
note.  Opposite  the  main  altar  is  the  organ  loft,  reached  through 
a lumber  room.  The  organ  is  old  and  wheezy.  The  unusually 
small  tower  and  belfry  which  surmounts  the  ch.,  where  it  is 
joined  to  the  old  convent,  impart  a bizarre  appearance  to  the 
weighty  edifice. 

The  narrow  calle  (de  la  Moneda)  at  the  N.-E.  angle  of  the 
Plaza  Mayor  leads  (past  the  side  of  the  Palacio  Nacional)  to 
the 

Church  of  La  Santisima  Trinidad  (The  Most  Holy  Trinity) 
in  the  Calle  de  la  Santisima  and  near  an  unkempt  plazuela 
(PI.  I,  4) . This  ch.,  commonly  known  as  La  Santisima , begun  in 
1755  and  dedicated  Jan.  17,  1783,  has,  after  the  Sagrario 
Metropolitano,  the  most  important  and  elaborate  Churriguer- 
esque  exterior  in  the  City  of  Mexico.  It  is  perhaps  the  work 
of  the  same  architect,  Lorenzo  Rodriguez , a devoted  student  of 
the  so-called  debased  style  of  Churriguera.  “The  symbolism 
of  the  name  of  the  ch.,  together  with  the  fact  that  it  belonged 
to  the  Congregation  of  St.  Peter,  finds  unique  and  appropriate 
embodiment  in  the  adoption  of  the  triple  crown  of  the  Papacy 
for  the  crown  of  the  tower  and  the  central  ornament  of  the 
facade.  The  sculpture  of  this  fagade,  now  in  a ruinous  state, 
though  decoratively  effective,  is  much  inferior  to  that  of  the 
Sagrario.”  The  intricate  niches  and  windings  of  this  one-time 


366  Route  J>2. 


MEXICO  CITY 


splendid  work  are  now  the  home  of  many  pigeons  — palomas. 
Corners  have  been  knocked  from  the  sculptures,  cobbles  have 
replaced  the  old  work  at  the  base,  and  the  entire  struc- 
ture is  dirty  and  neglected.  The  manifest  uncleanliness 
of  the  immediate  neighborhood  adds  to  the  triste  aspect. 
The  handsome  Churrigueresque  entrance  that  once  gave  on 
the  3a  CaUe  de  San  Lazaro,  has  been  allowed  to  fall  into  a 
ruinous  state.  It  was  blocked  up  for  many  years,  but  was  re- 
opened in  1909.  The  iron  reja  which  flanks  the  street  dates 
from  that  period.  The  red-stained  tezontle  of  which  the  side 
walls  are  constructed  is  usually  a characteristic  of  the  very 
oldest  houses.  The  large  dome  is  a strikingly  good  one ; the  dec- 
orations of  glazed  tiles  set  in  a dusky  reddish  plain  surface 
are  visible  from  a great  distance.  The  lantern  dome  is  entirely 
covered  with  glazed  tiles  between  the  ribs,  and  the  weather- 
beaten tower,  with  its  decided  list  toward  the  street,  looks 
ready  to  topple  under  its  weight  of  years. 

The  finely  proportioned  interior  of  the  ch.  has  but  little 
to  interest  in  detail.  The  large  painting  on  the  r.  wall,  of  the 
Sehora  Santa  Ana  and  one  of  her  devotees,  is  curious  in  that 
collars  of  real  pearls  have  been  attached  to  the  canvas.  The 
somewhat  glaring  capilla  on  the  1.,  with  its  gilded  columns, 
dates  from  1908.  The  most  revered  object  in  the  ch.  is  the 
life-size  group  (modern)  of  polychrome  figures  representing 
the  Holy  Trinity.  The  somewhat  daring  personification  of 
the  Supreme  Being  could  have  been  carried  out  in  better  taste. 
The  crown  which  surmounts  the  seated  figure  was  stolen  in 
1907,  but  was  recovered. 

The  large  Parochial  Church  of  La  Soledad  de  Santa 
Cruz  (PI.  1,4),  one  of  the  oldest  religious  foundations  in  the 
city,  is  said  to  date  from  about  1534,  — a decade  after  the  fall 
of  Tenochtitlan.  The  existing  ch.  has  doubtless  undergone 
repeated  renovations,  as  the  manifestly  new  fa$ade  is  sur- 
mounted by  the  government  coat-of-arms,  and  the  stone  is 
not  the  tezontle  usually  employed  in  the  older  edifices.  Ac- 
cording to  the  ch.  chronicles,  the  older  portion  of  the  present 
ch.  was  dedicated  Oct.  21,  1731,  and  renovated  in  1791.  It 
occupies  the  site  of  a ch.  built  by  some  of  the  first  Aztec  con- 
verts to  Christianity.  A somewhat  glaring  feature  of  the  gray 
stone  facade  is  a recess  containing  a polychrome  figure,  with 
voluminous  skirts  and  a spreading  gilt  crown,  of  the  San- 
tisima  Virgen  de  la  Soledad..  Below  the  figure,  carved  in  the 
stone,  is  the  somewhat  ambiguous  inscription: 

Nadie  pase  este  lugar  sin  que  afirme  con  su  viaa  que  Maria  fue  concebida 
sin  la  culpa  original. 

No  one  passes  this  spot  who  does  not  affirm  with  his  life  that  Mary  was 
conceived  without  the  original  sin. 

Other  niches  contain  doctors  of  the  ch.  The  two  ordinary 
towers  contain  (on  the  left)  a clock  and  (right)  a campanario. 


MEXICO  CITY  42.  Route . 367 

The  brown  dome  is  surmounted  by  a lantern  with  slit 
windows. 

We  enter  beneath  the  organ  loft.  On  the  N.  and  S.  walls 
are  hundreds  of  small,  square  paintings,  supposed  to  represent 
crucial  episodes  in  the  lives  of  devotees  who  were  “ cured,”  or 
saved  from  untimely  death,  by  the  miraculous  intervention 
of  la  Santisima  Virgen.  The  pictures  are  almost  as  crude 
as  the  reasoning  of  the  protagonists.  It  is  the  custom  of  cer- 
tain devotees  of  the  miraculous  image  of  the  Virgin  to  kneel 
at  the  ch.  door  and  edge  along  on  their  knees  down  the  entire 
length  of  the  interior  to  the  comulgatorio . A series  of  clustered 
columns  covered  with  plaster  and  paint  separate  the  huge  nave 
from  the  lateral  aisles.  The  three  altars  on  the  r.  are  over- 
decorated. Between  the  two  altars  on  the  1.  is  the  interesting 
Capilla  de  la  Escuela  de  la  Soledad,  with  a number  of  quaint 
old  medallion-like  paintings,  a black  Christ  (life  size)  crucified, 
and  a curious  polychrome  group,  in  low  relief,  representing 
the  descent  from  the  cross. 

The  High  Altar , of  white  marble,  has  for  its  centrepiece 
the  much  venerated  image  of  the  Santisima  Virgen  de  la 
Soledad.  For  a small  fee  the  sacristan  conducts  the  visitor  to 
the  rear  of  the  altar  and  thence,  by  a series  of  iron  ladders, 
through  a small  opening  to  the  high,  sacrosanct  retreat  of 
the  Virgin.  The  footing  on  the  ladder  and  the  upper  ridge  of  the 
high  altar  is  precarious,  and  bulky  travellers  should  be 
satisfied  with  a distant  view.  To  the  r.  of  the  main  altar  is  a 
huge  painting,  about  20  ft.  square,  unsigned  and  of  good  color- 
ing, of  Christ  on  his  way  to  Calvary.  The  ecclesiastics  who 
form  a part  of  the  procession  as  it  emerges  from  the  Jerusalem 
gate  are  represented  in  a realistic  manner.  The  companion 
piece,  on  the  1.  of  the  altar,  represents  an  episode  in  the  life 
of  Santa  Elena  de  la  Cruz.  It  is  of  equal  size,  and  is  neither 
signed  nor  dated.  According  to  the  ch.  records  they  are  anti- 
quisima  (very  old),  and  are  perhaps  the  work  of  Echave  el 
Mozo  (p.  cxlviii),  or  a contemporary  painter.  In  the  coro.  at  the 
opposite  end  of  the  ch.  (reached  by  a roundabout  passageway 
outside  the  building),  is  a large  picture  representing  scenes  in 
the  life  of  la  Santisima  Virgen.  The  walls  of  the  school  ad- 
joining the  ch.  are  hung  with  dilapidated  paintings  of  great 
antiquity  but  no  merit.  The  chief  devotees  of  the  shrine  of 
this  Virgin  belong  to  the  middle  and  lower  classes. 

The  San  Lazaro  District  was  at  one  time  thickly  sprinkled 
with  churches,  many  of  which  have  been  demolished.  Promi- 
nent among  these  was  the  Church  of  San  Lazaro,  founded  in 
1572  (by  the  Order  of  the  Juaninos ) as  a leper  hospital  and 
known  as  El  Hospital  de  San  Lazaro.  The  original  structure 
cost  80,000  pesos , and  an  idea  of  its  massiveness  can  be  gathered 
from  the  hulk  which  is  now  dismantled  and  is  used  as  a fac- 
tory. The  weather-beaten  Ch.  of  Santo  Tomas  de  la  Palma 


368  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


(PI.  I,  5),  hard  by  to  the  S.-E.,  an  Augustinian  foundation 
dating  from  1550,  is  a relic  of  the  palmy  days  which  followed 
the  Conquest.  Near  this  dilapidated  ch.  is  a small  structure 
called  San  Gerdnimo  (PI.  I,  5),  founded  by  the  Concepcionistas 
as  a convent  in  1 586.  Its  only  claim  to  fame  is  that  here  Juana 
Ines  de  la  Cruz  (p.  cxlix)  took  the  vqjl  and  lived  until  she 
died  in  1695.  The  cell  in  which  this  celebrated  Musa  Mexi- 
cana  dwelt  is  still  to  be  seen.  At  present  the  ch.  stands  in 
a most  uninviting  neighborhood  — one  where  the  frowsy 
populaclio  expect  miracles  to  be  performed  'without  the  aid 
of  soap. 

The  small  Chapel  of  La  Candelaria , with  a Catalonian  belfry 
(PI.  I,  5),  is  near  the  San  Gerdnimo  ch.  and  is  likewise  uninter- 
esting. Not  far  away  is  the  tumble-down  Church  of  El  Rosario. 
San  Antonio  Tomatlan , to  the  N.-W.  of  the  Sa?i  Lazaro  station, 
is  not  worth  looking  at.  To  the  N.-W.  of  the  San  Lazaro  sta- 
tion is  the  infamous  Colonia  de  la  Bolsa  (PL  I,  3),  a sort  of 
plague  spot  for  crime,  -which  the  Government  is  trying  to 
stamp  out. 

The  Penitentiary  (La  Penitenciaria) , in  the  E.  quarter  of 
the  city,  is  reached  by  the  tranvia  of  the  Pehon  de  los  Banos 
(from  the  Plaza  Mayor  at  frequent  intervals,  fare  6 c.),  or 
on  foot  by  a short  walk  N.-E.  from  the  Estacion  de  San  Lazaro 
of  the  Ferrocarril  Interocednico  (PI.  J,  4).  The  structure  forms 
one  of  a group  comprising  the  Escuela  de  Tiro  de  ArtiUeria  and 
the  R astro  Nuevo  — new  abattoir.  The  walk  through  the  un- 
savory purlieus  is  not  interesting.  The  building,  referred  to 
by  delinquents  as  palacio  bianco  (white  palace),  is  one  of 
the  most  perfect^  appointed  establishments  of  its  kind;  two 
stories  high,  with  a superficial  extension  of  32,700  sqr.  meters, 
and  an  elevator  which  ascends  to  the  observation  tower,  124 
ft.  high.  The  prison  is  supplied  with  artesian  water,  which  is 
pumped  into  a tank  in  this  torre , and  has  accommodations  for 
over  1,000  prisoners.  It  required  five  years  to  complete  and 
cost  $2,500,000.  The  cells  ( celdas ),  of  which  there  are  1,000, 
have  steel-lined  wralls  and  cement  floors;  the  corridors  con- 
verge toward  a common  centre.  The  system  is  the  Irish 
Croffton  (with  some  modifications),  with  twro  extensive  de- 
partments for  men  and  women.  Besides  an  immense  Ameri- 
can kitchen  range  on  which  food  for  one  thousand  persons 
can  be  cooked  at  one  time,  the  prison  (inaugurated  Sept.  28, 
1900)  contains  a hospital,  a library,  baths,  and  many  con- 
veniences. Absolute  silence  is  enjoined  on  the  prisoners,  who 
are  usually  long-term  convicts.  Applications  for  permits  to 
visit  the  building  should  be  addressed  to  the  Director  on  the 
premises. 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  369 


South-West  Quarters  of  the  City. 

Belem  Prison.  La  Ciudadela.  Instituto  Medico  Nacional. 
Churches  of  El  Salto  de  Agua  and  La  Merced.  San  Juan  Market. 
San  Jose  de  los  Naturales.  Church  of  El  Corazon  de  Jesus. 
La  Sagrada  Familia.  American  Sch ool.  Bull- Ring.  Colonias  Juarez, 
Roma  and  Condesa.  Washington  Monument.  Panteon  Frances. 

Belem  Prison  {car cel  de  Belem  — Bethlehem),  in  the  south- 
western part  of  the  city  (PL  F,  5),  is  reached  by  the  Peralvillo 
y Belem  tram-line,  fare  6 cts.  Inspection  is  permitted,  but 
the  prison  is  not  representative.  The  edifice  is  one  of  the  oldest 
in  the  city  (erected  1683),  and  owes  its  being  to  the  good  Padre 
Domingo  Perez  de  Barcia,  who  with  funds  begged  from  the 
charitable  founded  it  as  an  asylum  for  indigent  religious 
women.  It  began  its  career  under  the  name  of  the  Colegio  de 
San  Miguel  de  Belem  (College  of  St.  Michael  of  Bethlehem), 
albeit  for  many  years  it  was  known  to  the  vulgar-minded  as  the 
Colegio  de  las  Mochas  (the  cropped  ones) . 

The  prison  is  usually  overcrowded,  containing  from  5,000 
to  6,000  criminals  at  one  time.  It  is  estimated  that  100,000 
degenerates  pass  through  it  in  the  course  of  a single  year. 
Dangerous  and  long-term  prisoners  are  removed  to  the  Peni - 
tenciaria  of  the  Federal  District  or  to  other  prisons  within  the 
Republic.  Executions  usually  take  place  in  the  Patio  del 
Jardin.  Belem  is  a microbic  spot  and  should  be  avoided. 

La  Ciudadela  (citadel),  which  houses  the  Museo  Nacional 
de  Artilleria  (Natfi  Museum  of  Artillery),  is  a long,  low  build- 
ing (open,  free,  to  visitors)  used  chiefly  as  an  arsenal.  See  the 
PI.  F,  5.  It  dates  from  1700,  and  long  bore  an  unsavory  reputa- 
tion for  pronunciamientos  and  revoluciones.  The  library  con- 
tains 4,000  volumes.  In  the  park  facing  the  building  is  a 
commanding  monument  (inaugurated  May  2,  1912)  sur- 
mounted by  a fine  bronze  figure  of  the  patriot  Morelos;  it 
commemorates  the  centenary  of  the  siege  of  Cuautla  (p.  466). 
The  other  figures  are  (front),  Matamoros ; (r.)  Bravo;  (1.) 
Galeana.  Inscriptions  on  the  base  advise  that  the  monument 
is  a memorial  presented  by  the  National  Army  ( ejercito 
nacional ),  that  it  is  the  work  of  Ingeniero  Carlos  Noriega; 
that  the  idea  for  its  erection  was  initiated  by  the  Military 
College;  that  Francisco  de  la  Barra  was  president  at  the  time 
of  its  inception;  that  Jose  Gonzales  Salas  was  secretary  of  war; 
and  that  when  it  was  inaugurated  Francisco  I.  Madero  was 
president,  and  General  Angel  Garcia  Pena  secretary  of  war. 
Four  big  cannons,  on  carriages,  adorn  the  zocle  on  which  the 
shaft  rests. 

El  Instituto  Medico  Nacional  (National  Medical  In- 
stitute) on  the  Avenida  Balderas,  in  the  S.-W.part  of  the  city 
(PI.  F,4),  dates  from  1907  and  cost  $213,882.54.  There  is 
a chair  of  Natural  History,  Chemistry,  Physiology,  Clinical 
Therapeutics,  and  Geography  and  Climate.  Particular  atten- 


370  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


tion  is  devoted  to  the  study  of  the  Mexican  fauna  and  flora, 
and  the  stranger  interested  in  seeing  specimens  and  obtain- 
ing information  thereabout  is  referred  to  the  director  in 
charge  of  the  institute.  The  edifice  is  in  the  Renaissance  style 
and  is  attractive. 

La  Parroquia  de  la  Concepcion  del  Salto  de  Agua 
(PI.  F,  5)  dates  from  about  the  middle  of  the  16th  cent,  and 
faces  the  square  wherein  the  ruinous  remains  of  the  city 
end  of  the  old  Chapultepec  aqueduct  now  stand.  The  interior 
of  the  ch.  is  tawdry  and  grimy  with  years,  with  some  worth- 
less paintings.  Note  the  two  queer  old  wheels  of  bells,  near 
the  high  altar.  The  exterior  recalls  that  of  the  fine  old  San 
Yldefonso  (p.  360)  school;  the  star  windows,  the  pink  tezontle, 
the  gargoyles  and  the  quaint  niches  — from  which  the  saints 
have  all  disappeared  — all  being  reminders  of  the  earliest  ar- 
chitecture of  Colonial  times.  The  Jardin  to  the  N.-W.  is  that 
of  Alfonso  Herrera. 

The  one-time  fine  fountain  (erected  in  1779  by  the  Viceroy 
Antonio  Maria  de  Bucareli ) in  the  centre  of  the  square  is  now 
sadly  dilapidated.  The  tablets  let  into  the  sides  refer  to  the 
date  of  erection  and  to  the  viceroy  who  ruled  at  the  time. 

The  Colegio  de  San  Ignacio,  2 squares  to  the  N.-E.  of 
this  spot,  is  described  at  p.  352. 

The  tumble-down  Church  of  La  Merced,  called  also  San 
Pedro  de  Belem,  one  square  E.  of  the  Belem  Prison  and  hard 
by  the  Salto  de  Agua,  is  an  old  landmark.  The  main  entrance, 
which  is  often  closed,  faces  the  Plaza  de  los  Arcos  de  Belem , 
with  some  tall  eucalyptus  trees  and  a government  school.  The 
newer  entrance  gives  on  to  the  4a  Calle  de  los  Arcos  de  Be- 
lem (PI.  F,  5),  and  leads  through  the  new  chapel  of  the  Socorro 
Perpetua , behind  the  altar  of  which  one  must  pass  to  reach  the 
nave  of  the  older  ch.  The  latter  was  closed  for  fifty  years 
after  the  passage  of  the  Reform  Laws.  The  two  time-stained 
C hurrigueresque  altars  in  the  transepts  are  good  specimens  of 
the  early  craftsmanship.  The  eight  pictures  let  into  the  S. 
reredo  are  unsigned,  as  is  also  the  old  painting  of  the  Holy 
Trinity,  near  the  entrance.  Above  the  high  altar  there  is  a 
huge  painting,  The  Triumph  of  the  Virgin. 

The  San  Juan  Market,  in  the  plaza  of  the  same  name 
(PI.  F,  4),  is  one  of  the  busiest  of  the  city  mercados.  A host  of 
lovely  flowers  can,  as  a rule,  be  bought  here  at  about  half  the 
prices  charged  in  the  Mercado  de  Flores  (p.  293).  Bargaining 
always  necessary.  On  the  west  side  of  the  Plaza  de  San  Juan 
is  the  huge  factory  of  the  Buen  Tono  Cigarette  Co.,  perhaps 
the  largest  factory  devoted  exclusively  to  the  manufacture  of 
cigarettes  in  the  Republic, 

The  Parochial  Church  of  San  Jose  de  los  Naturales, 
a weather-beaten  structure  which  dates  from  the  early  years 
of  1800,  overlooks  (from  the  N.)  the  usually  crowded  market. 


West  Quarter . 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  371 


and  is  noteworthy  only  for  its  quaint  architecture.  The  odd, 
Byzantine-like  tower,  decorated  (in  the  Mudejar  style)  with 
blue  and  yellow  lustred  tiles,  is  a landmark.  The  twin  belfries 
and  the  (second)  undecorated  dome  give  the  ch.  an  appear- 
ance of  greater  size  than  the  single  nave  proves  it  to  possess. 
The  entire  structure  was  badly  shattered  by  an  earthquake 
in  July,  1858,  and  the  new  decorations  proved,  in  an  artistic 
sense,  more  destructive  than  the  seismic  upheaval.  The  dis- 
trict in  which  the  ch.  and  market  stand  was  formerly  called 
Moyotlan. 

The  Jesuit  Church  of  La  Sagrada  Familia  (the  Holy  Family), 
with  bizarre  towers,  at  the  intersection  of  the  Calles  Orizaba 
and  Puebla,  dates  from  1922,  and  calls  for  no  particular  men- 
tion. It  contains  none  of  the  beautiful  pictures  or  carvings 
characteristic  of  certain  of  the  older  churches  of  the  capital. 

The  Church  of  El  Corazon  de  Jesus,  facing  the  la  Calle 
de  Londres  and  the  2a  de  Roma,  in  the  Colonia  Juarez 
(PI.  E,  5),  dates  from  1907,  and  is  a fair  type  of  the  style  of  ch. 
that  is  springing  up  in  the  new  colonias  of  the  capital.  The 
colored  glass  windows  are  of  local  workmanship. 

The  American  School  ( escuela  americana),  at  the  corner  of 
the  Calles  de  Vera  Cruz  and  San  Luis  Potosi  (PL  D,  7)  dates 
from  1922  (corner  stone  laid  Feb.  23d)  and  stands  on  land 
given  by  Mr.  Edwin  Orrin . Resident  Americans  gave  money, 
time  and  services  to  the  undertaking,  as  did  many  philan- 
thropic Mexicans  — in  generous  appreciation  of  benefits  con- 
ferred on  their  own  children  by  American  institutions  for 
learning  in  the  U.S.A.  The  school  supercedes  a smaller  one 
which  for  many  years  existed  in  another  part  of  the  capital. 

The  Plaza  de  Toros,  near  by,  is  described  at  p.  xcvii.  The 
Colonias  Juarez , Roma  and  Condesa  are  mentioned  at 
pp.  263-264. 

A striking  Monument  to  George  Washington,  erected  by 
Americans  and  presented  by  them  to  the  Mexican  people  in 
1910,  on  the  centenary  of  their  struggle  for  Independence, 
stands  in  the  Plaza  de  Dinamarca  (PL  D,  5). 

The  Cementerio  (or  Panteon)  Frances,  the  property  of 
the  Sociedad  de  Beneficencia  francesa  (French  Benefit  Society), 
on  the  Calzada  de  la  Piedad  (La  Piedad  tranvias  from  the 
Zocalo  frequently),  is  well  cared  for,  and  contains  many  hand- 
some tombs  and  monuments.  Though  established  by,  and 
for,  the  French  Colony,  and  primarily  intended  for  French 
people,  many  rich  Mexicans  are  buried  here.  The  inscrip- 
tion on  the  artistic  iron  grill  which  guards  the  entrance  says: 
Heureux  qui  Meurt  dans  le  Seigneur.  The  capilla  at  the  foot 
of  the  avenue  leading  from  the  entrance  is  where  Catholic 
services  are  held  over  the  remains  of  those  who  die  in  the 
faith. 


372  Route  42. 


MEXICO  CITY 


El  P ciseo. 


West  Quarters  of  the  City. 

Calles  de  Bucareli.  Paseo  de  la  Reforma.  Equestrian  Statue 
of  Charles  IV.  Statue  of  Christopher  Columbus.  Statue  of 
Cuauhtemoc.  Monument  to  National  Independence.  Chapultepec 
Castle  and  Park.  Chapultepec  Heights  Colony.  Molino  del 
Rey.  Panteon  de  Dolores. 

The  Calles  de  Bucareli,  a chain  of  wide  streets  leading  south- 
ward from  the  Plaza  de  la  Reforma,  were  opened  Dec.  8,  1775, 
and  named  for  the  Viceroy  Don  Antonio  Maria  de  Bucareli  y 
XJrsua.  Time  was  when  these  streets  formed  one  of  the  most 
fashionable  paseos  in  the  city.  Four  lines  of  splendid  trees 
(1,064  in  all)  and  a large  fountain  (where  the  clock  tower 
now  stands)  were  formerly  features  of  it,  and  the  four  parallel 
drives,  which  were  shaded  and  well  kept,  were  thronged  with 
gay  equipages  long  before  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma  was  made. 

The  Paseo  de  la  Reforma  (PL  E,  4),  prolonging  the  Ave- 
nida  Juarez,  leads  from  the  Plaza  de  la  Reforma  (wherein 
stands  the  bronze  equestrian  statue  of  Charles  IV)  through 
the  western  part  of  the  city  to  Chapultepec  Park,  and  is 
the  finest  and  most  fashionable  avenida  in  the  Republic. 
Its  E.  terminus  is  1,700  yards  from  the  Plaza  Mayor,  and  the 
entire  length  of  the  avenue,  from  the  Caballito  to  the  Castle 
gate,  is  about  2 M.  (3,750  yards).  It  was  constructed  by  the 
order  of  the  Archduke  Maximilian  for  the  double  purpose  of 
beautifying  the  city  and  establishing  a direct  road  therefrom 
to  the  imperial  retreat  on  the  crest  of  Chapultepec  hill.  When 
completed  (1866)  it  was  known  variously  as  the  Calzada  del 
Emperador , the  Paseo  de  Colon  and  Paseo  de  Maximillano. 
Its  present  name  commemorates  the  celebrated  Reform  Laws 
of  the  Juarez  Government.  The  Empress  Carlota  caused  a 
double  row  of  eucalyptus  trees  to  be  planted  along  its  entire 
length,  and  in  time  these  attained  magnificent  proportions, 
and  converted  the  popular  driveway  into  a tunnel  arched  over 
with  green  foliage.  With  the  draining  of  the  Valley  so  much 
moisture  was  taken  from  the  sub-soil  that  most  of  the  giant 
trees  died  and  fell.  A number  of  the  original  trees1  still  stand 
and  flank  a foot-path  leading  N.  from  near  the  castle  gate. 

Between  the  bronze  statue  and  the  castle  gate  are  six 
glorietas  (bowers),  each  400  ft.  in  diameter,  adorned  with  fine 
monuments  and  parterres  of  flowers.  Flanking  the  roadway 
are  a number  of  Greek  vases  and  shafts  surmounted  by  bronze 
statues  of  national  celebrities,  the  gifts  of  the  various  Mexican 
States.  The  inscription  on  the  front  base  of  each  statue  gives 
the  name  of  the  person;  that  on  the  side  refers  to  the  state 
and  the  date.  The  handsome  houses  which  flank  the  Paseo 
have  all  been  erected  since  1890. 

The  broad  calzada  which  leads  southwest  from  the  Paseo, 

1 A peculiarity  of  the  medicinally  charged  and  very  pungent  eucalyp- 
tus leaves  is  that  they  are  placed  upright,  so  that  both  sides  are  equally 
exposed  to  the  light. 


i. Bronze  Horse.  MEXICO  CITY  J&.  Route.  373 

near  the  Park  entrance,  traverses  Tacubaya,  Mixcoac,  San 
Pedro  and  other  minor  towns,  and  leads  to  San  Angel  and  the 
attractive  San  Angel  Inn . 

The  wide  road  which  leads  off  to  the  right,  near  the  entrance 
to  the  Park,  connects  with  the  Calzada  de  la  Veronica,  which 
in  turn  passes  the  old  American  Cemetery  and  joins  the  high- 
road trending  northwest  to  Tacuba,  Popotla , and  Azcapot- 
zalco. 

The  two  handsome  gilded  bronze  lions  (on  massive  Mex. 
marble  bases)  which  guard  the  outer  entrance  to  the  Park, 
weigh  14  tons  each  and  are  of  French  origin  (F.  Barbadienne , 
Paris).  They  were  placed  in  position  Sept.  16,  1921. 

The  new  brown  stone  gateway  at  the  left  (S.-W.)  marks  the 
site  of  an  old  aqueduct  and  fountain  which  were  demolished 
two  decades  ago.  Some  of  the  original  stones  were  used  in  the 
present  construction,  which  is  supposed  to  be  a faithful  copy 
of  the  old  work. 

The  Bronze  Equestrian  Statue  of  Charles  IV  ( Estatua 
ecuestre  de  Carlos  Cuatro),  called  also  the  “Iron  Horse”  and 
“El  Caballito’>  (the  little  horse),  stands  in  the  Plaza  de  la  Re- 
forma (P1.F,4),  at  the  head  of  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma,  where 
it  joins  the  Avenida  Juarez  and  the  Calles  de  Bucareli.  Visible 
from  many  directions  the  statue  serves  excellently  as  a land- 
mark for  visitors  unacquainted  with  the  south-western  part 
of  the  city.  It  was  the  first  important  bronze  statue  made 
in  America;  Humboldt  declared  it  the  second  finest  eques- 
trian statue  in  the  world;  the  first  being,  in  his  opinion,  that 
of  Marcus  Aurelius,  at  Rome.  It  has  ever  been  unpopular 
with  Mexicans,  and  it  long  served  as  the  butt  for  satirical  poems, 
and  pasquinades.  It  has  occupied  several  sites  in  the  city,  and 
its  several  removals  have  caused  it  to  be  dubbed  El  Cahallito 
de  Troy  a (Troy). 

At  the  request  of  Miguel  de  la  Grua  Talamanca,  a royal 
order  granting  permission  to  make  and  erect  the  statue  was 
issued  Nov.  30,  1795.  This  Viceroy  (the  52d),  who  was 
shrewd  enough  to  gain  royal  favor  by  the  suggestion,  was  also 
sufficiently  astute  to  have  the  cost  of  the  work  defrayed  by 
individuals  and  the  municipality.  While  the  work  of  casting 
the  statue  was  under  way,  a gilded  wooden  model  was  placed 
on  the  pedestal  prepared  for  the  original.  As  soon  as  it  was 
finished  the  bronze  horse  was  erected  in  the  centre  of  the 
Plaza  de  la  Constitucion,  where  it  was  unveiled  Dec.  9,  1803, 
and  where  it  remained  until  1822.  During  the  War  for  Inde- 
pendence the  feeling  against  Spain  and  things  Spanish  was 
intense,  and  to  preserve  the  monument  from  destruction,  it 
was  enclosed  in  a huge  wooden  globe,  painted  blue,  to  hide 
it  from  patriotic  eyes.  This  precaution  proved  insufficient* 
and  the  statue  was  removed  to  a small  corner  of  the  cloister 
of  the  University,  where  it  remained,  half-forgotten,  until  1852* 


374  Route  1$. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Columfais  Statue. 


In  April  of  that  year  it  was  decided  to  move  it  to  its  present 
commanding  position  — on  the  site  of  a fine  fountain  erected 
to  the  memory  of  the  first  Mexican  President,  Guadalupe 
Victoria,  and  called  La  Fuente  Victoria.  The  fountain  was 
demolished,  the  pedestal  erected,  and  the  statue  was  placed 
on  greased  wooden  skids  and  started  (midnight  of  Sept.  11) 
on  its  journey  from  the  University.  It  was  planned  to  have 
it  in  position  by  dawn,  and  thus  surprise  the  populace;  but 
instead,  fifteen  days  and  hundreds  of  men  and  boys  and  many 
horses  were  required  to  move  the  heavy  monarch  to  his  final 
resting-place.  On  its  way  thither  it  was  left  standing  for 
several  days  in  the  Plaza  del  Volador , facing  a bronze  statue 
of  the  Dictator  Santa  Anna , — a statue  which  at  that  time 
occupied  the  summit  of  a tall  Doric  column  in  the  centre  of 
the  plaza , — where  to  the  intense  amusement  of  the  populace 
these  two  worthies  — the  grim,  lantern-jawed,  hook-nosed 
Bourbon  King  of  Spain,  and  the  bombastic  and  pyrotechnic 
Santa  Anna  — glared  at  each  other. 

The  height  of  the  statue  is  15  ft.  9 inches;  the  combined 
weight  of  the  horse  and  rider,  which  were  cast  in  one  piece, 
is  nearly  30  tons.  The  fusing  of  the  huge  mass  of  metal  occu- 
pied two  entire  days,  and  it  is  a noteworthy  fact  that  the 
immense  casting  (the  work  of  a Spanish  artisan,  Salvador  de 
la  Vega)  came  from  the  crude  mould  intact. 

The  inscription  on  the  east  side  of  the  base  says: 

“The  Viceroy  Don  Miguel  de  la  Grua  Talamanca,  Marquis 
of  Brancefort,  governed  New  Spain  from  1794  to  1798,  and 
caused  to  be  made  this  statue  of  Carlos  IV  of  Bourbon,  King 
of  Spain  and  the  Indies.  It  was  erected  in  the  Plaza  Mayor 
of  Mexico  Dec.  9,  1803,  on  the  birthdaj^  of  the  Queen  Maria 
Luisa,  in  the  reign  of  the  Viceroy  Don  Jose  de  Iturrigaray. 
Mexico  preserves  it  as  a monument  of  art.”  Note  the  signi- 
ficance of  the  last  Sentence. 

The  inscription  on  the  west  side  says: 

“This  statue  was  fused  and  moulded  in  Mexico  Aug.  4, 
1802,  in  a single  operation.  The  weight  of  the  metal  was  400 
quintals.  It  was  the  work  (refers  to  the  design)  of  Don 
Manuel  Tolsa,  Director  of  Sculpture  in  the  Academy  (of  San 
Carlos),  and  14  months  were  required  to  chisel  and  polish  it. 
Don  Mariano  Arista  was  President  of  the  Republic ; and  Don 
Miguel  Lerdo  de  Teiada,  President  of  the  City  Council,  or- 
dered it  placed  (in  1852)  on  this  spot.” 

The  imposing  Statue  to  Christopher  Columbus  ( Cristobal 
Colon),  in  the  first  glorieta  of  the  Paseo  (PI.  E,  4),  was  a gift 
to  the  city  by  Senor  Antonio  Escandon , and  was  unveiled 
in  Aug.  1877.  The  monument  (the  work  of  the  French  sculp- 
tor, Charles  Cordier)  stands  on  an  octagonal  gray  granite 
plinth  adorned  with  marquetry  work  in  black  stone,  reached 
by  four  flights  of  stone  steps,  and  flanked  by  8 graceful  iron 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  375 


posts,  each  upholding  a cluster  of  5 lamps.  An  iron  railing 
encloses  the  plinth.  The  well-kept  little  garden,  with  par- 
terres of  flowers,  is  encircled  by  40  volcanic  stone  pillars  and 
a heavy  iron  chain.  Visitors  are  supposed  to  view  the  statue 
from  a point  outside  the  enclosure.  They  are  cautioned 
against  the  small  open  wells  near  the  pillars,  which  furnish 
water,  and  which  are  pitfalls  for  the  unwary.  Rising  from  the 
centre  of  the  zocle  is  a quadrangular  shaft  of  red  granite 
supporting  four  seated  figures,  (all  of  heroic  size),  and  the 
central  statue.  In  front  (to  the  r.)  is  Padre  Juan  Perez  de 
Marchena,  Prior  of  the  Convent  of  Santa  Maria  la  Rabida,1 
|;  protege  of  Columbus  on  his  expedition  to  the  New  World; 
to  the  1.  is  Fray  Diego  Dehesa , Confessor  of  King  Ferdinand, 

I and  to  whose  support  Columbus  owed  some  of  the  royal  favor; 

on  the  W.  side,  to  the  r.,  is  Fray  Pedro  de  Gante,  and  to  the  1. 
p Fray  Bartolome  de  las  Casas,  known  as  the  Defender  of  the 
Indians  (compare  the  fine  painting  in  the  San  Carlos  Acad- 
I emy).  The  figure  of  the  Great  Navigator  is  strikingly  attract- 
ive. He  stands  facing  the  east,  uncovering,  with  his  left  hand, 
the  New  World  discovered  by  him.  With  his  right  hand  he 
gives  thanks  to  Heaven  for  his  success. 

On  the  E.  face  of  the  pedestal  are  the  coat-of-arms  of 
I Columbus,  with  the  lion  and  the  castle;  emblematic  of  the 
» fact  that 

“Para  Castilla  y Leon  nuevo  mundo  descubrio  Colon.” 

In  a scroll  surrounded  by  bronze  strips  are  the  words  “A 
Cristobal  Colon , Mayo , 1877.”  The  inscription  below  says  that 
■ the  monument  was  inaugurated  Aug.,  1877,  during  the  Presi- 
I dency  of  General  Don  Porfirio  Diaz,  with  citizen  Don  Vicente 
Riva  Palacio  as  Minister  of  Public  Works. 

In  the  rear  (W.)  is  a graceful  medallion  containing  a frag- 
ment of  a letter  written  by  Columbus  to  Raphadi  Saurez. 
Below  is  the  Latin  inscription : 

Christophoro  Columbo , Hoc  ceternce  admirationis . Testi- 
monium erigi  urbique  Mexicance  offerri  voluit.  Artonius 
Escandon  anno  MDCCCLXXV . 

The  allegory  in  bronze  (by  Cordier)  on  the  S.  side  depicts  the 
rebuilding  of  the  Monastery  of  Santa  Maria  la  Rabida;  that 
1 on  the  N.  represents  the  island  of  San  Salvador,  the  first  land 
j sighted  by  Columbus  in  the  New  World. 


1 In  this  convent,  in  1484,  Columbus,  craving  charity  with  his  little 
boy,  was  received  by  the  prior,  Juan  Perez  de  Marchena.  This  monk 
alone  (says  Richard  Ford),  when  the  wisest  kings  and  councils  had  re- 
jected as  visionary  the  scheme  of  the  discovery  of  the  New  \\  orld,  had 
the  wit  to  see  its  probability,  the  courage  to  advocate  the  plan,  and  the 
power  to  prepare  the  experiment.  He  must,  indeed,  share  in  the  glory 
of  the  discovery  of  America,  for  by  his  influence  alone  with  Isabel  was 
his  protege  Columbus  enabled  to  sail  on  this  expedition.  Here  also  Cortes 
found  shelter  on  his  return  from  Mexico.  In  1846  this  convent  was  or- 
dered to  be  preserved  as  a national  memorial. 


376  Route  J>2. 


MEXICO  CITY 


Cuauhtemoc. 


The  glorieta  in  which  the  monument  stands  is  flanked 
by  the  Cafe  de  Colon,  a small  kiosk  where  a military  band 
plays  at  frequent  intervals,  and  a number  of  attractive  resi- 
dences. Eight  Greek  vases  adorn  the  entrances  to  the  circle. 

The  Statue  to  Cristobal  Colon,  facing  the  Plazuela  de  Buena  Vista 
(PI.  E,  3),  was  erected  Oct.  12,  1892,  to  celebrate  the  fourth  centenary 
of  the  discovery  of  America. 

The  Bronze  Statue  of  Quauhtemotzin  (often  called  Cuauhte- 
moc, and  pronounced  quah-oo-Za?/-moc),  last  Prince  of  the 
Aztecs,  stands  in  the  2d  glorieta  of  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma 
(PI.  D,  4),  and  is  one  of  the  finest  and  most  impressive  monu- 
ments on  the  continent.  The  work  is  that  of  the  native 
sculptor  Don  Miguel  Noreha , and  is  after  a design  by  the 
Mexican  artist  Sehor  Francisco  Jimenez.  The  corner-stone 
was  laid  May  5,  1878,  and  the  completed  monument  was 
unveiled  Aug.  21,  1887.  Its  total  cost  was  137,800.  Twenty- 
five  thousand  pounds  of  bronze  were  used  in  the  work,  5,000 
lbs.  of  which  went  into  the  central  figure  — which  is  16§  ft. 
high.  The  total  height  from  the  ground  to  the  topmost  point 
of  the  warrior’s  penache,  or  plume,  is  66§  ft.  The  stone,  known 
as  arenisca , — a kind  of  basalt,  — is  from  the  Loreto  quarries 
near  Puebla.  The  dominating  architecture  is  Aztecan,  albeit 
the  whole  is  a happy  blend  of  various  Indian  orders.  The 
designs  around  the  edge  of  the  plinth,  as  well  as  those  which 
ornament  the  upper  edge  of  the  base,  or  zocle,  are  copied  from 
the  Zapotec  ruins  of  Mitla  in  the  State  of  Oaxaca.  The  bizarre 
columns  of  the  second  story,  and  their  ornamentation,  are 
from  the  Toltec  ruins  at  Tula.  They  were  selected  because 
of  their  somewhat  unique  structure,  and  because  they  are 
unlike  the  usual  Toltec  architecture.  The  various  enrich- 
ments which  run  quite  around  the  monument  above  these 
groups  of  columns  are  modelled  after  the  strange  and  beauti- 
ful ornamentations  on  the  ruins  of  Uxmal  in  Yucatan,  and 
Palenque  in  Chiapas.  The  serpentine  design  of  the  3d  story 
is  Aztec.  The  attractive  bronze  panoplies,  amulets,  trophies 
and  costumes  in  the  recesses  are  replicas  of  those  worn  and 
carried  by  the  Indian  tribes  who  occupied  the  Vale  of  Anahuac 
at  the  time  of  the  Spanish  invasion. 

The  plinth  is  reached  by  four  short  flights  of  steps  each 
guarded  by  two  bronze  leopards  (each  6J  ft.  long),  eight  in 
all,  whose  combined  weight  is  6,000  lbs.  The  massive  bronze 
tablets  (each  16§  ft.  long)  in  low  relief  are  the  work  of  Miguel 
Noreha,  and  they  depict,  in  a spirited  manner,  certain  salient 
episodes  of  the  Conquest.  The  votive  tablets  let  into  the  front 
and  rear  of  the  monument  base  are  by  Gabriel  Guerra.  The 
inscription  on  the  front  base  commemorates  “The  memory 
of  Cuauhtemoc  and  those  warriors  who  fought  heroically  in 
the  defence  of  their  country,  MDXXI.,,  The  inscription  at 
the  rear  says  “ Porfirio  Diaz,  President  of  the  Republic,  and  Vi- 


MEXICO  CITY 


Route.  377 


cente  Riva  Palado,  Secretary  of  Public  Works,  ordered  the 
erection  of  this  monument,  MDCCCLXXVII.”  The  inscrip- 
tion below  advises  that  “the  monument  was  erected  by  order 
of  Manuel  Gonzalez , President  of  the  Republic,  and  the  Secre- 
tary of  Public  Works,  Carlos  Pachecho , MDCCCLXXXII.,, 

The  names  in  bronze  on  the  base  of  the  superstructure  are 
of  Cuitlahuac,  Cacama , Tetlepanquetzal  (cacique  of  Tacuba) 
and  Coanacoch,  all  heroic  warriors  who  fought  in  the  unequal 
struggle  with  the  Conquistadores.  The  tablet  showing  Cuauh- 
temoc being  tortured  by  the  order  of  Cortes,  to  force  him  to 
reveal  the  hiding-place  of  Montezuma’s  treasure,  is  admirable 
and  realistic.  An  Aztec  lord,  and  companion  of  the  Prince, 
stands  by,  clad  in  a tiger  skin;  his  clenched  hands  and  the 
tense  expression  of  his  face  show  the  agony  he  endures  at  hav- 
ing to  be  an  inactive  witness  to  the  torture  and  suffering  of  his 
sovereign. 

As  Cuauhtemotzin  declared  repeatedly  that  he  had  no  revelation  to 
make,  the  Spanish  soldiers  became  angry  and  demanded  that  he  be 
turned  over  to  them.  Cortes  therefore  delivered  him  into  the  hands  of  his 
soldiery  to  work  their  pleasure  on  him.  But  the  hero  who  had  braved 
death  in  many  other  forms  was  not  to  be  intimidate’d  by  bodily  suffering. 
He  bore  the  infernal  pain  of  the  fire  with  admirable  fortitude.  When 
Tetlepanquetzal  testified  his  own  anguish  by  groans,  and  begged  his  Prince 
to  reveal  the  location  of  the  gold,  Cuauhtemotzin  rebuked  him  coldly 
saying:  $ Estoy  yo  acaso  en  algun  deleite  6 bano  f — Ami  taking  my 
pleasure  in  my  bath?  This  dictum  is  proverbial  in  Mexico,  and  is  em- 
ployed when  one  has  his  own  troubles,  yet  is  asked  to  bear  those  of 
others. 

All  that  could  be  wrung  from  the  stout-hearted  warrior  by  his  suffer- 
ings was  the  admission  that  much  gold  had  been  thrown  into  the  water. 
The  best  divers  were  employed  and  Cortes  superintended  the  work,  but 
only  a few  articles  of  inconsiderable  value  were  drawn  out.  In  searching  a 
pond  in  the  Prince’s  garden  a sun,  or  Aztec  calendar  wheel,  made  of  pure 
gold,  and  of  great  thickness,  was  found.  Prescott  says:  “Among  all  the 
names  of  barbarian  princes,  there  are  few  entitled  to  a higher  place  on 
the  roll  of  fame  than  that  of  Cuauhtemotzin .” 

One  of  the  tablets  represents  Cuauhtemoc  in  prison  after  the 
downfall  of  Tenochtitlan.  When  brought  before  Cortes  the 
latter  was  on  the  azotea , or  roof  of  a house  in  the  Amaxac 
suburb.  Cortes  received  the  royal  prisoner  with  demonstra- 
tions of  friendship,  but  Cuauhtemoc , advancing  toward  him, 
reached  for  the  Spaniard’s  dagger,  saying:  “ Malinche, 
I have  done  all  that  I could  to  defend  my  city  and  my  people ; 
I can  do  no  more.  I stand  before  you  a prisoner,  do  with  me 
as  you  will,  but  first  take  this  poignard  and  kill  me  with  it.  ” 
The  interpreter  Marina  is  a prominent  figure  in  the  group. 

“ Cuauhtemoc  remained  in  prison  from  Aug.  13,  1521,  until  he  was 
forced  to  accompany  Cortes  on  his  expedition  to  Honduras  in  1524.  The 
Aztecs  made  repeated  efforts  to  rescue  him,  and  because  of  this,  the  soul- 
less Conqueror  determined  to  rid  himself  of  the  troublesome  prisoner. 
On  reaching  the  pueblo  of  Teotitlac,  State  of  Oaxaca,  one  of  the  Indian 
converts  in  the  train  informed  the  general  that  a conspiracy  had  been 
set  on  foot  by  Cuauhtemotzin  and  the  Cacique  of  Tacuba  to  massacre  the 
Spaniards.  No  sooner  did  Cortds  learn  the  particulars  of  this  formidable 


378  Route  J>2. 


MEXICO  CITY 


plot  than  he  caused  the  Prince  and  all  the  Aztec  lords  in  his  party  to  be 
brought  before  him.  The  latter  admitted  the  fact  of  the  conspiracy,  but 
alleged  that  it  had  been  planned  by  Cuauhtemotzin,  and  that  they  had 
refused  to  come  into  it.  The  Prince  and  the  Tacuban  Cacique  maintained 
a dogged  silence,  neither  admitting  nor  denying  the  accusation.  Such  is 
the  statement  of  Cortes;  but  Bernal  Diaz,  who  was  present,  attests  that 
Cuauhtemotzin  and  the  Cacique  declared  their  innocence.  They  admitted 
that  a project  for  rising  on  the  Spaniards  had  been  discussed,  but  the 
Prince  had  discouraged  it  from  the  first,  and  no  scheme  of  the  kind  could 
have  been  put  into  execution  without  his  knowledge  and  consent.  These 
protestations  did  not  avail  the  unfortunate  men,  and  Cortes,  having 
satisfied,  or  affected  to  satisfy  himself  of  their  guilt,  ordered  them  to 
immediate  execution. 

“ When  brought  to  the  fatal  tree,  Cuauhtemotzin  displayed  the  intrepid 
spirit  worthy  of  his  better  days.  ‘I  knew  what  it  was,’  said  he,  ‘to  trust 
to  your  false  promises,  Malinche  ; I knew  that  you  had  destined  me  to  this 
fate,  since  I did  not  fall  by  my  own  hand  when  you  entered  my  city  of 
Tenochtitian.  Why  do  you  slay  me  so  unjustly!  God  will  demand  it  of 
you ! ’ Tetlepanquetzal,  protesting  his  innocence,  declared  that  he  desired 
no  better  lot  than  to  die  by  the  side  of  his  lord.  The  unfortunate  princes, 
with  one  or  more  inferior  nobles,  were  then  executed  by  being  hanged 
(Feb.  28,  1524)  from  the  huge  branches  of  a ceiba  tree  which  overshad- 
owed the  road.” 

The  Aztec  name,  Cuauhtemotzin , rendered  into  Spanish,  is 
“The  Eagle  which  descended,”  Aguila  que  descendid.  The 
Prince’s  crest  was  that  of  an  eagle  descending  to  touch  a 
human  foot  with  his  beak.  This  symbol  is  illustrated  on  the 
pedestal  (E.  face)  just  below  the  feet  of  Cuauhtemoc . The 
statue  is  inspiring.  The  attitude  of  the  heroic  Aztec,  as  he 
stands  with  spear  poised  ready  to  hurl  it  defiantly  at  the 
terrifying  enemy,  is  symbolic  of  the  unquestioned  courage  of 
his  race.  The  plumed  penache,  or  feather  head-dress,  denotes 
his  rank.  The  light  manta  (mantle)  which  falls  from  his  shoul- 
ders was  replaced,  on  state  occasions,  by  a surcoat  of  the 
gorgeous  feather- work,  in  which  the  Aztecs  excelled.  His  breast 
is  covered  with  a quilted  cotton  cuirass,  — a garment  so  light 
and  so  serviceable  that  it  was  adopted  by  the  Spaniards. 
The  pose  of  the  sandal-shod  figure  is  one  of  stress,  courage 
and  determination. 

Aug.  21,  of  each  year  — the  anniversary  of  the  torture  of 
the  Prince  — a curious  festival  is  held  at  the  base  of  the  monu- 
ment. Aztec  costumes  are  worn  by  the  participants,  Indian 
dances  are  performed,  and  the  descendants  of  the  great  Prince 
recall,  in  the  Aztec  language,  the  chief  episodes  of  his  life. 

El  Monumento  a la  Independence  Nacional,  in  the  4th  glorieta  of  the 
Paseo  de  la  Reforma  (PI.  G,  5),  the  work  of  the  architect  Antonio  Rivas  , 
Mercado,  was  begun  in  1901  and  completed  in  1910  at  a total  cost  of  $2,154,- 
000.  The  foundation,  a complicated  network  of  steel,  re-enforced  con- 
crete and  wood  piles  (65  miles  in  length),  cost  $537,000.  The 4 obelisks  at 
the  corners  of  the  plinth  are  of  Baveno  granite.  The  height  of  the  column 
from  base  to  capital  is  78  ft.:  the  capital  measures  12  ft.,  and  the  total 
height  of  the  monument,  from  the  base  to  the  tip  of  the  wings  of  the  crown- 
ing figure,  is  150  ft.  The  marble  and  granite  are  Italian  and  cost  $15,000. 
The  four  seated  bronze  figures  of  the  socle  represent  Paz  (peace),  La  Ley 
(law) , Justicia  (justice)  and  Guerra  (war) : each  weighs  3.000  kilos,  and,  with 
the  lion  group  (which  weighs  5,500  kilos)  were  cast  (by  wax  process)  in 
Florence  ( Galli  Brothers)  and  cost  $107,000.  Some  20  ft.  above  the  socle  is  a 


Chapultepec, 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  379 


marble  group,  the  apotheosis  of  Independence.  The  central  figure  is  Miguel 
Hidalgo  y Costilla,  fugleman  of  liberty;  that  at  the  r.  represents  Mexico 
offering  him  the  laurel  wreath;  that  at  the  1.  symbolizes  history  recording 
his  heroic  deeds  and  sacrifices. 

At  Hidalgo's  r.  is  a marble  figure  of  Morelos  ; Guerrero  stands  at  his  1.  (N.) ; 
those  facing  W.  are  Mina  and  Nicolas  Bravo.  The  statues  (all  Carrara 
marble)  are  approx.  11  ft.  high  and  weigh  3,000  kilos  each.  They  are  the 
work  of  Enrique  Alciati,  Prof,  of  Sculpture  in  the  Academia  Nacional  de  San 
Carlos.  The  main  group  cost  $51,500;  the  four  statues  $50,000.  Four 
shields,  the  names  of  24  insurgents,  and  a wealth  of  bas-reliefs  and  war  para- 
phernalia adorn  the  monumento.  The  gilded  and  winged  figure  (bronze,  22  f t. 
high;  weight  7,000  kilos)  of  Victory,  which  surmounts  the  shaft,  holds  in  the 
r.  hand  a laurel  wreath,  and  in  the  1.  a fragment  of  a chain  emblematic  of  the 
bondage  which  during  three  centuries  was  the  fate  of  the  beloved  country. 
The  figure  is  beautiful  and  inspiring;  particularly  at  dawn,  when  it  resem- 
bles a golden  angel  flying  to  greet  the  rising  sun.  In  the  vestibule  is  a statue 
of  Guillen  de  Lam-part,  one  of  the  precursors  of  Independence.  The  158  steps 
of  the  caracol  stair  which  leads  up  through  the  shaft  terminate  at  the  top, 
whence  a splendid  panorama  is  visible.  The  face  of  the  young  woman  in 
the  medallion  on  the  door  represents  the  Young  Republic  of  Mexico.  The 
history  of  the  monument  is  chiseled  upon  a tablet  at  the  rear  near  the  base. 

The  style  of  the  structure  is  a felicitous  blend  of  modern  and  classic  archi- 
tecture. The  seated  figures  symbolize  the  fact  that  Independence,  having 
been  gained  by  force  of  arms,  is  now  guaranteed  by  peace,  under  the 
dominion  of  law  and  justice.  The  lion,  emblem  of  majesty  and  strength, 
when  wreathed  in  laurel  and  guided  by  genius  in  the  form  of  a little  child, 
portrays  the  Mexican  people,  who,  although  covered  with  glory,  are  none 
the  less  submissive  and  docile  to  the  call  of  honor  and  duty. 

Chapultepec  (Aztec ,chapuiin  = grasshopper,  tepetl  = hill), 
or  Grasshopper  Hill  (so  called  from  the  number  of  insects 
of  the  genus  Gryllus  which  once  infested  the  spot),  is  a por- 
phyritic  pile  whose  summit  is  196  ft.  above  the  Valley,  at  the 
W.  end  of  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma  (comp,  plan  of  Mex.  City, 
PI.  B,  6,  also  the  plan  of  the  castle  ground,  p.  380),  about  3 M. 
from  the  Plaza  Mayor.  It  was  once  an  island  in  the  salt  Lake 
of  Texcoco.  The  hill  is  irregular  in  shape,  with  a gradual  slope 
to  the  S.,  and  with  abrupt,  craggy  declivities  on  the  N.-W. 
and  E.  Its  one-time  forbidding  sides  are  now  almost  smothere>  l 
in  blooming  flowers,  and  terraces  are  being  added  from  time 
to  time.  During  the  Aztec  dominion  the  hill  was  a sort  of  fort- 
ress, with  a pagan  temple  oh  the  summit,  and  the  immediate 
environs  constituted  a pleasure  resort.  When  Tenochtitlan 
became  an  important  city,  Montezuma  II  converted  the  fort- 
ress into  a summer  residence,  and  here  he  established  his 
harem,  baths,  gardens,  aviary,  fish-ponds  and  hunting-lodge. 
It  is  now  the  most  beautiful  spot  in  the  suburbs  of  the  capital, 
and  is  justly  regarded  as  the  finest  artificial  park  in  the  Re- 
public. The  splendid  roads  and  the  magnificent  trees  are 
a sustained  delight  to  lovers  of  woodland  scenery.  Some  of 
the  little  waterways,  miniature  islands  and  rustic  bridges  are 
very  picturesque.  There  is  a lack  of  snakes  and  noxious  in- 
sects in  the  park. 

Visitors  seldom  extend  their  excursions  to  the  battle-field 
of  Molino  del  Rey,  in  the  rear  of  the  castle  grounds,  since 
the  spot  is  interesting  only  for  its  historic  associations.  The 
government  cartridge  factory  is  also  in  the  rear  of  the  park. 


380  Route  J^2.  MEXICO  CITY  Ckaputiepec.  1 

The  tram-line  which  skirts  the  S.  side  leads  to  Dolores  Ceme- 
tery (p.238).  The  early  morning  is  the  best  time  to  visit  the  j 
parque;  then  all  is  fresh  and  attractive,  and  a saunter  through 
the  almost  deserted  grounds  is  thoroughly  delightful.  Guide  j 
unnecessary.  There  is  a lamentable  dearth  of  free  seats  to 
be  had;  the  spindle-legged  chairs  sitting  in  rows  at  various  ! 
points  (usually  far  from  any  beauty  spot)  are  rented  by  the 
park  custodians  (who  see  to  it  that  the  visitor  does  not  sit 
on  the  grass)  at  5 c.  the  h hour.  Mounted  guards  constantly 
patrol  the  avenues,  and  visitors  are  cautioned  against  any 
infraction  of  the  rules  relating  to  the  picking  of  flowers,  etc. 

The  tranvias  which  leave  the  Plaza  Mayor  at  frequent  intervals  for 
Chapultepec,  Tacubaya , Mixcoac  and  San  Angel , and  which  traverse  the 
Ave.  16  de  Septiembre  and  the  Ave.  dela  Independencia,  thence  across  the 
upper  end  of  the  Colonia  Juarez  and  out  through  the  Avenida  de  Cha- 
pultepec (flanking  the  Colonia  J.  on  the  S.)  pass  the  park  gates  and  stop  at 
the  entrance.  Time  about  15  min.  The  castle  and  grounds  are  outside 
the  city  limits,  and  when  employing  a taxi  an  agreement,  as  to  what  the 
charge  will  be,  should  be  reached  with  the  choftr  before  starting.  Usu- 
ally he  will  want  double  fare.  Visitors  who  wish  to  see  the  castle  and  park 
with  the  least  possible  expenditure  of  time  will  perhaps  find  taxis  the 
most  desirable.  Several  dollars  can  be  saved,  however,  and  the  splendid 
forest  seen  to  greater  advantage  if  one  will  take  more  time  and  walk  to 
and  through  it.  One  entire  morning  can  be  spent  in  the  grounds  to 
advantage.  Walkers  will  find  an  early  morning  stroll  out  to  the  Paseo  de  la 
Reforma  thoroughly  delightful  and  invigorating.  From  March  to  Sept, 
the  park  gates  are  opened  at  5 a.  m.  and  closed  at  7 p.  m.  From  Oct.  to 
Feb.  5.30  a.  m.  and  7 p.  m.  The  park  regulations  limit  the  speed  of  auto- 
mobiles : autoists  will  do  well  to  heed  the  Despacio  (slow)  signs  placed 
at  intervals  along  the  roads.  Dogs  are  forbidden  entrance.  The  prudent 
visitor  will  not  touch  the  flowers. 

Permits  to  visit  the  Castillo  can  be  obtained  (free)  upon  application  to 
one’s  Consul  or  to  the  Intendente  del  Palacio , in  the  Intendencia  at  the 
National  Palace.  Permission  to  enter  the  castle  during  the  summer  « May- 
Sept.)  months,  when  the  president  and  his  family  are  in  residence  there, 
is  rarely  granted.  A simple  admission  card  does  not  always  imply  that 
the  visitor  is  accorded  the  privilege  of  seeing  all  the  salons.  If  this  is  de- 
sired a special  permit  should  be  asked  for.  Visitors  without  permits  are 
allowed  to  go  as  far  as  the  gate  of  the  upper  terrace,  at  the  crest  of  the 
hill,  anti  to  enter  the  Colegio  Militar ‘(fine  views  from  the  roof),  — a 
long,  rambling  structure  prolonging  the  castle  on  the  W.  As  there  is  a 
dearth  of  pictures  and  art  objects  on  view  in  the  castle,  one  can  usually 
spend  the  time  to  better  advantage  enjoying  the  wonderful  panorama 
visible  from  the  terraces  and  corridors. 

The  huge  war-picture  (painted  by  Francisco  de  P.  Mendoza  in  1905) 
on  the  stair-landing  of  the  Colegio  M ilitar  represents  the  entry  of  General 
Por,\rio  Diaz  into  Puebla  on  April  2.  1867.  The  generals  accompanying 
him  were  Juan  C.  Bonilla,  Comandante  Carlos  Pachecho,  Ignacio  a la 
Torre,  and  Francisco  Carreon. 

The  Park  ( Parque ) is  most  frequented  in  the  morning  be- 
tween  10  and  12  o’clock,  and  between  3 and  6 in  the  afternoon. 
Vehicles  usually  enter  the  gate  at  the  end  of  the  Paseo  de  la 
Reforma , bear  round  to  the  r.,  follow  theorem  Avenida  to  its  W.  j 
intersection  with  the  Calzada  del  Rey,  and  return  to  the  en- 
trance along  that  Ave.  In  the  early  morning  the  pedestrian 
usually  has  the  park  to  himself. 

At  this  time  the  enchanting  beauty  and  freshness  of  the 


3 Q O H A ,J 


PLANO  DEL 


BOSQUE  ©E  6KAPVLTBPB6 

1:12,000 

0 oCu) 1000 1500  Engl. Ft. 

0 100  200  300 400  Metros 

Made  specially  for  Terry's  Mexico 
Copyrighted  (Es  propiedad) 


I'll  apultepec 


Chapultepec.  MEXICO  CITY  J^2.  Route.  381 

place  is  alluring.  A few  horsemen  may  be  seen  in  the  park 
soon  after  sunrise,  but  the  steady  stream  of  automobiles,  etc. 
does  not  begin  to  arrive  until  the  morning  is  half  gone.  At 
noon,  and  particularly  on  Sundays  and  holidays,  the  roads 
are  thronged.  Many  fine  charro  costumes  characterize  these 
festive  parades,  some  of  them  costly,  and  most  of  them  bril- 
liantly effective. 

The  Cafe  Chapultepec , just  within  the  entrance  to  the  main 
park,  at  the  right,  is  often  crowded  from  noon  to  twilight  on 
Sundays.  Music.  Meals  a la  carta. 

Facing  the  entrance  from  the  Paseo,  and  at  the  right 
of  the  lateral,  tram-car  terminus,  is  a music  kiosk.  To  the 
r.  of  this  is  the  Calzada  del  Castillo , which  we  follow  to  reach 
the  castle  entrance.  To  the  1.  of  this  calzada , in  the  rear  of 
the  kiosko,  is  the  duck-pond,  and  overlooking  it  the  Monu- 
ment to  the  Memory  of  the  Cadets  who  fell  during  the 
American  war.  The  inscription  on  the  E.  side  advises  that 
“this  shaft  was  erected  (1880-81)  by  the  Military  College 
Association,  to  military  honor,  under  the  auspices  of  Presi- 
dents Porfirio  Diaz  and  Manuel  Gonzalez/’  On  the  N.  and  S. 
sides  are  the  names  of  some  of  the  dead  heroes.  The  inscrip- 
tion on  the  W.  face,  below  the  date  Sept.  13,  1847,  says  “ this 
monument  stands  to  the  memory  of  the  cadets  of  the  mili- 
tary college  who  died  like  heroes  during  the  North  American 
invasion.’’  The  President  deposits  floral  tributes  on  the  shaft 
on  each  anniversary  of  the  battle. 

In  the  small  glorieta  facing  the  monument,  on  the  imitation 
tree-trunks  ranged  round  the  interior,  are  the  names  of  the 
students  above  referred  to. 

“After  the  battle  of  Molino  del  Rey,  which  takes  rank  as  perhaps  the 
most  strongly  contested  of  any  during  the  war  (and,  proportionately, 
the  bloodiest;  for  out  of  the  American  force  of  barely  3,500  men,  the 
casualties  numbered  787,  among  which  were  116  killed),  the  invaders 
turned  their  attention  to  Chapultepec,  which  was  strongly  fortified  and 
supplied  with  several  batteries  and  ample  ammunition. 

“ The  American  General  Pillow  takes  possession  of  the  unoccupied  mill 
at  dawn  on  the  12th  (Sept.,  1847)  under  an  ineffectual  fusillade  from  the 
grove,  and  at  the  same  time  the  southern  batteries  open  fire.  Blazing 
fuse  and  balls  whirl  fast  and  furious  against  the  castle,  crushing  through 
the  walls,  and  scattering  dust  and  debris  upon  the  defenders.  The  monu- 
mental frame  begins  to  gape  in  ruins,  and  even  the  girdling  parapet  is 
torn  bv  noisy  shells.  But  like  a lion  at  bay,  it  rises  in  defiance  and 
roars  in  prompt  reply,  a counterpart  to  the  song  of  battle.  It  is  a 
music  of  the  spheres;  but  death  wields  the  baton  beneath  a lurid  canopy, 
wherein  Valkyries  chant  the  dread  refrain  while  watching  for  their  prey. 

“The  aim  of  the  assailing  batteries  is  becoming  fearfully  precise  for  the 
garrison  pent  up  above  within  the  narrow  space,  the  artillerists  suffering 
so  severely  that  toward  noon  several  of  the  cannon  are  silenced.  But 
the  din  and  crash  do  not  diminish,  for  Pillow  seizes  the  opportunity  to 
place  the  battery  just  south  of  the  mill,  so  far  held  in  check  by  the  summit 
fire;  and  now  the  bombardment  grows  fiercer  still,  throughout  the  after- 
noon, till  darkness  interferes. 

“ Despite  the  damage  inflicted,  the  enemy  had  gained  little  by  his  day’s 
work,  save  in  keeping  the  adversary  in  doubt  as  to  his  real  intent.  Santa 
Anna  therefore  remained  inactive,  unwilling  to  hazard  a field  movement 


382  Route  J^2.  MEXICO  CITY  Chapultepec. 

with  the  reserve.  Later  in  the  day  he  visited  the  castle  and  made  some 
dispositions,  swelling  the  force  in  the  grove  to  500  men.  Night  brings  a 
cessation  of  hostilities,  but  no  repose.  The  noise  of  preparations  for  the 
portentous  morrow  resounds  on  both  sides,  and  the  soldiers  rest  on  their 
arms  watching  for  the  dawn.  Scott  had  issued  orders  for  an  assault  both 
by  Pillow  and  Quitman,  led  by  two  picked  storming  parties  of  250  men 
each,  while  Worth  advances  in  close  support,  and  Twiggs  throwTs  out 
Smith’s  brigade  to  his  left  to  check  reenforcements  from  the  city.  Early 
on  the  13th  the  batteries  burst  forth  anew  in  a lively  cannonade  along 
the  south  front  of  the  capital  as  well  as  against  the  castle.  Meanwhile  the 
infantry  moves  into  position  for  the  fray. 

“ Suddenly  at  8 a.  m.  the  roar  of  artillery  ceases,  and  a significant  si- 
lence intervenes,  the  prelude  to  another  struggle.  A voltigeur  regiment  is 
seen  to  rush  from  the  crumbling  precincts  of  the  mill  and  flit  along  the 
southern  wall.  Its  goal  is  a redan  in  a breach  of  the  wall  at  the  southern 
end  of  the  intrenchments  that  fringe  the  western  slope  of  the  grove.  So 
quick  is  the  advance  that  ere  a second  volley  can  be  delivered  the  volti- 
geurs  are  springing  over  ditches  and  parapets,  and  falling  in  the  rear  of  the 
intrenched  line,  whose  defenders  are  occupied  by  a simultaneous  front 
attack  by  the  fellow-regiment.  Thus  surprised,  there  is  no  alternative 
save  to  fall  back  among  the  sheltering  trees,  where  they  hold  forth  awhile 
against  the  ever-growing  numbers  brought  up  by  Pillow.  General  Perez 
falls  in  covering  the  retreat,  but  Xicotencatl,  worthy  descendant  of  the 
famed  Tlascaltec  chieftain,  rallies  this  overwhelmed  band  to  fresh  efforts 
till  he  also  succumbs;  and  then  they  break  at  the  fclbt  of  the  hill.  Now 
the  hill  batteries  direct  their  fire  into  the  very  grove,  and  shot  and  shell 
come  crashing  through  the  branches,  scattering  splinters  in  all  directions, 
and  shaking  the  heavy  moss  that  hangs  like  stalactites,  or  even  felling 
some  ancient  ahuehuete  that  for  centuries  had  mutely  preached  the 
nothingness  of  man. 

“ The  fire  from  the  hill  is  becoming  unendurable  and,  as  the  storming 
party  is  still  delayed.  Pillow  orders  the  front  line  to  take  its  place.  A few 
rounds  of  canister  and  a fusillade  to  clear  the  way,  and  up  charge  the 
voltigeurs,  seeking  what  shelter  they  can  from  boulders  and  projections 
against  the  galling  rain  of  bullets.  Several  officers  fall:  Pillow  himself  is 
wounded;  and  maddened  by  the  loss,  the  men  rush  blindly  on,  changing 
the  cry  of  * Forward  ’ into  a wild  yell  of  * Vengeance!  ’ Ah!  the  beastliness 
of  war!  Good  men  killing  good  men : patriots  hewing  down  patriots  as  if 
each  regarded  the  other  as  poisonous  reptiles,  when  indeed  there  is  no 
personal  issue  between  them.  Fools  all  — they  and  their  masters  — 
blinder  than  bats,  more  senseless  than  donkeys,  thus  to  feel  obliged  to 
butcher  each  other  awhile,  before  settling  down  to  an  adjustment  of 
differences  on  some  plan  within  the  domain  of  reason!  But  what  have 
wire-pulling  politicians  to  do  with  right  or  reason?  What  care  office- 
seekers,  men  who  spend  their  lives  in  their  efforts  to  supplant  others  and 
gain  for  themselves  a better  place  — w'hat  do  they  care  who  and  how 
many  are  killed  or  mangled  and  buried  in  the  ditches? 

“ Numbers  and  impetus  prevail;  the  redan  is  carried,  and  so  closely  are 
the  defenders  pursued  that  the  officer  charged  to  fire  the  saucissons  of 
the  mines,  just  beyond,  waits  for  a moment.  That  moment  saves  the 
pursuers.  He  is  disabled;  the  saucissons  are  destroyed,  and  the  rush 
continues  to  the  crest  of  the  hill.  Here  the  enemy  have  to  pause,  however, 
at  the  foot  of  the  parapet,  from  which  grape  and  bullets  now  pour  upon 
them,  tearing  wide  gaps  in  their  ranks. 

“ While  waiting  for  ladders,  they  crouch  back  behind  rocks  and  into 
hollows  which  have  been  neglected  by  the  engineers,  and  thence  begin  to 
pick  off  artillerists  and  sharp-shooters  with  a precision  so  terrible  as  soon 
to  silence  the  artillery  and  force  the  evacuation  of  the  bastion  at  the 
knee  of  the  front  ascent.  By  this  time  Cadwalader,  who  has  replaced  the 
wounded  General  Pillow,  brings  up  the  ladders  and  fascines;  and  now 
there  is  a rush  across  the  ditch  to  plant  the  ladders.  The  musketry  fire 
redoubles,  and  down  come  the  first  climbers,  dead  and  disabled,  and  so 
the  next  daring  stormers;  but  assailants  cluster  thick  and  eager  at  the 
foot  to  take  the  vacant  places,  and  finally  they  gain  a foothold  on  the 
parapet. 


Chapultepec.  MEXICO  CITY  J^2.  Route.  383 

“ A resistless  number  follows  across  the  vacated  priest-cap  and  into  the 
precincts  of  the  yard,  joined  by  another  party,  whose  ascent  along  the 
south  side  had  been  facilitated  by  a top  fire  upon  its  bastion.  Light 
howitzers  and  captured  guns  are  turned  upon  the  castle  and  the  raised 
terrace  along  the  eastern  verge,  mingling  their  thunder  with  the  sharp 
ring  of  rifles,  driving  the  defenders  from  the  windows  and  roofs,  and  forc- 
ing them  over  the  walls,  while  covering  the  entrance  of  the  stormers.  A 
chance  shot  strikes  the  staff,  and  the  castle  flag  bends  over,  but  the  next 
moment  it  is  righted  again  by  sturdy  hands,  and  flutters  forth  defiantly. 
The  assailants  press  closer,  however,  and  are  already  in  hand-to-hand 
conflict  with  the  citadel.  The  excitement  of  battle  and  the  loss  of  com- 
rades seem  to  have  frenzied  them,  for  they  rage  with  a ferocity  never  be- 
fore displayed  during  the  war,  granting  little  or  no  quarter.  And  few 
ask  it.  The  very  cadets,  mere  boys  of  fourteen  years  and  upward,  fight 
with  heroic  daring,  and  cheer  their  elders  on  as  they  stand  at  bay  to  seil 
their  lives  dearly,  banishing  sombre  premonitions  and  quailing  not  at 
death.  The  blood  of  stripling  and  graybeard  mingle  in  their  flow,  and 
bear  the  mournful  tidings  in  the  red-tinged  waters  of  the  aqueducts. 
Finally  a party  gains  the  roof  and  strikes  the  flag;  and  as  the  banner  of 
the  invaders  rises,  midst  deafening  huzzas,  a change  sets  in.  The  authori- 
tative voice  of  the  officers  prevails;  the  slaughter  stops;  the  vanquished 
yield.  Bravo  surrenders,  together  with  four  generals  and  100  other  officers, 
the  total  number  of  prisoners  on  and  round  the  hill  being  placed  at  800.” 
(Bancroft’s  History  of  Mexico , vol.  v,  pp.  509  et  seq.) 

When  the  first  Aztecs  entered  the  Valley  of  Mexico  the  W. 
shore  of  Lake  Texcoco  was  marked  by  the  spot  where  the 
monument  to  the  cadets  now  stands.  Later,  during  the  time 
of  Montezuma  II,  when  the  shore  of  the  lake  had  receded 
eastward,  the  present  duck-pond  was  a sizable  lakelet;  the 
haunt  of  the  ocelot,  eagle,  snake,  turtle  and  other  pampered 
symbols  of  Aztec  divinities.  To  the  r.  of  this  pond,  in  a de- 
pression encircled  by  huge  trees,  is  a cemented  skating-rink, 
free  for  children.  The  charge  for  the  swings  is  5 c.  for  each 
20  min.  A few  yards  to  the  S.-W.  of  the  monument  is  a walled- 
in  spring,  — the  one-time  W.  terminus  of  a great  aqueduct 
which  supplied  a part  of  the  drinking  water  to  the  Aztec 
metropolis.  A half-obliterated  inscription  in  the  S.  wail 
advises  that  the  fountain  was  restored  in  1571  by  Martin 
Enriquez  de  Almanza,  4th  Viceroy. 

The  fine  aqueduct  which  the  Spaniards  destroyed  while  besieging  the 
city  was  repaired  by  some  of  the  early  Viceroys  and  was  converted  into  a 
‘‘magnificent  acueducto  of  904  gigantic  arches.”  An  inscription  at  the 
sometime  city  terminus  of  this  aqueduct,  El  Salto  de  Agua  (waterfall  or 
fountain),  near  Belem  Prison,  records  that  904  arches  supported  this 
vast  waterway  between  the  fountain  and  the  salto,  that  it  was  4,660 
varas  (yards)  long,  and  that  it  was  begun  (referring  to  the  renovation  and 
amplification)  in  1677,  and  completed  in  1779.  One  of  the  early  chroni- 
clers writes:  ‘‘Sweet  water  is  brought  to  Mexico  from  a place  called  Cha- 
pultepec, three  miles  distant  from  that  city,  which  springeth  out  of  a little 
nill,  at  the  foot  whereof  stood  formerly  two  statues  or  images,  wrought  in 
stone,  with  their  targets  and  launces,  the  one  of  Montezuma,  the  other  of 
Axaiaca  his  father.  The  water  is  brought  from  thence  to  this  day  in  two 
pipes  built  upon  arches  of  brick  and  stone.”  A few  years  ago  the  aque- 
duct was  condemned  as  useless,  and  the  greater  part  was  demolished.  By 
order  (in  1877)  of  the  Government,  25  arches  were  preserved  (on  which 
commemorative  tablets  are  to  be  placed)  along  with  a quaint  fountain,  a 
short  distance  E.  of  the  (S.)  castle  gate.  The  water  which  flowed  over 
this  long  aqueduct  was  called  agua  delgada  (thin  water)  tp  differentiate 


384  Route  1$.  MEXICO  CITY  ChapuUepec. 

it  from  another  source  which  provided  agua  gruesa  (thick  water) . His- 
tory has  it  that  the  original  aqueduct  was  built  by  Prince  Chimalpopoca 
in  1417.  Before  the  water  was  diverted  from  its  source  this  spring  was 
a rushing,  sounding  stream  that  poured  thousands  of  gallons  of  water 
daily  into  the  Aztec  city.  The  Spaniards  believed  that  Montezuma  had 
a secret  treasure-house  near  by,  and  every  nook  and  cranny  of  the  region 
has  been  dug  over  and  searched.  Tradition  avers  that  on  one  occasion, 
in  order  to  placate  the  anger  of  Tlaloc,  God  of  Water,  at  the  time  of  a 
long  drought,  a great  number  of  jewels,  including  emeralds,  turquoises, 
gold  and  whatnot,  were  thrown  into  the  spring.  This  belief  was  strength- 
ened in  the  minds  of  the  credulous  Spaniards  because  the  walls  round- 
about were  formerly  covered  with  Aztec  picture-writing,  and  petroglyphs. 
Hereabout  were  buried  many  nobles  and  caciques,  and  until  quite  recently 
carved  stone  fragments  marked  their  graves.  At  the  close  of  the  18th 
cent,  the  epitaphs  of  Montezuma,  Axayacatl  and  Ahuizotl  were  still  pre- 
served here.  During  the  construction  of  the  castle,  the  hillsides  were 
drilled  and  blasted,  and  many  carved  hieroglyphs,  ideographs  and  figures 
of  warriors  were  destroyed.  In  1784  the  Spaniards  maintained  a powder- 
mill  hereabout,  which  was  later  wrecked  by  an  explosion.  The  spring  half- 
way up  the  S.-E.  side  of  the  hill  supplies  some  of  the  water  drunk  in  the 
city. 

At  the  S.-E.  base  of  the  hill  is  the  Tribunal  (see  the  Park 
plan)  in  the  austere  Greek  style,  where  civic  honors  are  an- 
nually bestowed  upon  pupils  of  the  Military  College,  and  where 
memorial  services  are  held  to  commemorate  the  anniversary 
of  the  cadets  who  died  in  defence  of  the  castle  during  the 
American  invasion.  On  such  occasions  an  immense  crimson 
curtain  is  stretched  above  the  tribunal,  a wealth  of  flowers 
and  garlands  of  leaves  are  hung  roundabout,  and  the  struc- 
ture is  decorated  with  war  panoply, — cannons  surrounded  by 
projectiles,  swords,  stacked-arms  and  whatnot.  Directly 
facing  the  tribunal  is  the 

Arbol  de  Montezuma,  the  largest  tree  in  the  park.  It  is 
45  ft.  in  circumference,  about  200  ft.  high,  and  of  great  anti- 
quity. With  the  old  Arbol  de  la  Noche  Triste  (described  at 
p.  418)  and  the  Great  Tree  of  Tule  (in  Oaxaca),  it  forms  one  of 
a trinity  of  giants  which  are  perhaps  the  only  living  witnesses 
of  the  Montezuma  era  and  that  of  the  Conquest.  The  view 
down  across  the  park  toward  the  S.-E.,  to  a splendid  group 
of  great  trees  forming  a little  circle,  is  very  pretty.  Behind 
the  stone  railing  facing  the  tribunal  is  a fish-pond  with  some 
tiny  gold  fish  and  some  large  carp.  A short  walk  to  the  S.  of 
this  spot  brings  us  to  a w'alled-in  place  known  as 

Montezuma’s  Bath,  surrounded  by  a beautifully  kept 
flower  plot.  Many  tiny  jets  of  wrater  bubble  up  from  the  bot- 
tom of  the  spring.  Hard  by  is  the  pumping  station  w'hich 
draws  wrater  from  this  spring  and  forces  it  into  the  city  pipes. 

The  Forest  ( bosque ) of  Chapultepec,  at  the  W.  and  S. 
sides  of  the  hill  ( cerro ),  is  a beautiful  lake-dotted  woodland 
intersected  by  shaded  wTalks,  handsome  and  splendidly  kept 
drives,  running  streams  and  parterres  of  perennially  blooming 
flowers.  It  is  being  constantly  enlarged;  newr  avenues  and 
ponds  are  added  every  now'  and  then,  and  young  trees  are  set 
out.  In  point  of  size  and  general  attractiveness  it  compares 


Chapultepec . 


MEXICO  CITY  4£.  Route.  385 


not  unfavorably  with  the  Bois  de  Boulogne,  Hyde  Park  and 
similar  European  resorts:  it  was  formerly  a chosen  duelling- 
ground  and  it  is  still  the  predilection  of  love-lorn  persons 
^th  suicidal  intentions.  Many  of  the  avenues  i«Ozadas)  have 
attractive  names:  theave.  known  as  Calzada  del  Rey,  at  the 
S.sideofthe  hill  with  an  E.  and  W.  trend,  is  perhaps  the  finest. 

A wav  to  set  a comprehensive  idea  of  the  park  is  to  follow  (to  the 

most  of  which  traverse  cue  y & , q forms  an  inner  circle 

castlfrests  (comp  the  park 
ol'afn?k  Bv  starting  from  the  E.  base  of  the  hill  and  following  this  calzada 
P SrSm  to  the  1 , we  return  to  our  starting-point  after  a brisk 
walk^of°abmit  terminates.  The  longer  walk,  by  the  Gran  Ave.,  takes 
about  25  min.  . 

tion^  with  °^e  ^eZI^a^ol'^vhCTe  there  is  a fine  sheet  of 

W Tlie  statueon  the  topmost  point  of  the  islet 

££  Sro.^"‘c,E:  “ SfritS'w  .%Jo. 

of  Scopas,  found  in  the  island  of  Samothrace,  where  it  s oo 
on  a pedestal  representing  the  prow  of  a trireme).  An  excellent 
view  of  the  castillo  can  be  had  from  this  vantage  point. 

Following  the  Gran  Avenida  westward  we  now  half  circle 
the  castiUoand  get  a comprehensive  view  of  Jhe  fountains 
which  guard  the  Valley  at  the  west.  At  the  right  ' covering 
miles  of  the  elevated  mesa,  stretches  the  beautiful  and  ex 
tensive  Chapultepec  Heights  Colony,  descnbed  at  p 390m 
At  the  left,  crowning  the  summit  of  a slight  eminence, 

CeElMolt!no  del  Rey  (The  King’s  Mill)  of  historical  interej 

0fiSofTMotVdel0fReto^ ^ ^ 

°where|the'  Mexicans  and  Amen- 

ernment  arms  factory,  and  a pumping-station.  Keturmria 

eastward  along  the  Calzada  del  Rey  ^opedTcl^aio)  to  the 

entrance,  whence  we  proceed  (along *he . C. del 

iron  grill  and  the  guard  house  at  the  1 . ■ . the  jj. 

eEieSS 

this  pergola  is  the  elevator  shaft  which  was  formerly  a cave  - 


386  Route  2 . MEXICO  CITY  Chapultepec. 

long  believed  by  the  Aztecs  to  be  the  sanctuary  of  the  uneasy 
and  restless  spirit  of  Marina,  mistress  and  interpreter  of  the 
Great  Conqueror.  (The  Indians  of  to-day  believe  the  forest 
of  Chapultepec  is  haunted  by  Marina’s  spirit.)  While  this  ele- 
vator offers  the  quickest  method  of  ascending  to  the  castle, 
the  visitor  will  gain  considerable  by  following  the  winding 
road  to  the  terrace  on  the  S.  side.  The  views  as  we  go  up  are 
magnificent.  From  this  favorable  situation  the  fine  old  forest 
trees  can  be  seen  to  splendid  advantage. 

The  old  Ahuehuete  trees  ( Taxodium  distichum),  of  which  there  are 
more  than  200  in  the  park,  are  particularly  noteworthy.  The  larger  and 
older  ones  are  thought  to  be  the  relics  of  a magnificent  tropical  forest 
which  at  one  time  covered  the  great  Valley  of  Mexico.  Until  quite  recently 
these  trees  were  all  hung  with  festoons  of  gray,  trailing  Spanish  Moss 
( Tillandsia  asneoides)  wThich  imparted  a decided  color  tone  to  the  en- 
tire group  and  gave  the  forest  a phantom-like  appearance.  This  moss 
sapped  the  vitality  of  the  older  and  less  vigorous  trees  to  such  an  extent 
that  the  most  of  it  was  cleared  away : patches  still  remain  here  and  there. 
The  boles  of  certain  of  the  trees  are  enormous.  Decay  has  eaten  into  the 
heart  of  some  of  the  patriarchs,  and  to  preserve  them  clay  has  been  in- 
serted: to  gain  uniformity  in  appearance  this  clay  has  been  adroitly 
tinted  and  ribbed  and  made  to  resemble  the  bark,  so  that  near  inspection 
is  required  to  distinguish  it.  Scattered  among  the  giant  cypresses  are 

Eines  (some  of  them  immensely  tall),  pepper-trees,  palms  and  a host  of 
eautiful  shrubs,  ferns  and  flowers. 

The  Castle  ( Castillo , comp,  accompanying  plan)  which 
occupies  the  crest  of  the  hill,  and  is  reached  by  an  elevator 
which  rises  through  a shaft  cut  in  the  solid  rock,  and  by  a 
roadway  which  ascends  from  the  N.  side  and  winds  around 
toward  the  W.  and  S.,  was  begun  in  1783  by  the  Viceroy 
(47th)  Don  Matias  de  Galvez , who  obtained  permission  from 
the  King  of  Spain  to  erect  a summer  home  here.  The  prema- 
ture death  of  the  Viceroy  delayed  the  work,  which  was  later 
continued  by  his  son,  Bernardo  de  Galvez,  who  succeeded 
him  in  the  viceroyship.  By  1786  the  work  had  already  cost 
the  Spanish  Crown  300,000  pesos,  and  the  King,  suspicious  of 
the  Viceroy’s  motive,  commanded  the  work  to  stop.  This  al- 
leged Palacio  de  Verano  (summer  palace),  in  a commanding 
position  with  strong  military  attributes,  fortified  with  moats 
and  with  salient  walls  and  parapets  toward  Mexico  City,  and 
containing,  on  its  N.  side,  vast  subterranean  vaults  capable  of 
holding  provisions  sufficient  to  feed  an  army,  bore  too  close  a 
resemblance  to  a fortress  masked  as  a pleasure  house.  In  due 
time  the  King’s  suspicions  were  allayed,  and  although  the 
work  was  not  completed,  the  Viceroy  and  the  Vice-Queen  (a 
woman  celebrated  for  her  beauty  and  virtues;  also  as  being 
one  of  the  first  blondes  ever  seen  in  Mexico)  dwelt  in  the  castle 
for  a time.  With  the  recall  of  Galvez  in  1787,  the  unfinished 
structure  was  permitted  to  fall  into  decay.  At  the  begin- 
ning of  1800  it  presented  a sadly  dilapidated  aspect,  and 
wras  little  more  than  a wreck.  Repairs  were  undertaken  in 
1840,  and  two  years  later  a branch  of  the  Escuela  Militar  was 


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Chapultepec. 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  387 


installed  in  a wing  of  the  building.  Just  prior  to  the  Amer- 
ican War  it  was  strongly  fortified,  and  in  1847,  when  it  was 
stormed  and  taken  by  the  Americans  under  General  Pillow , the 
students  defended  it  heroically  and  with  great  loss. 

In  1866  the  Emperor  Maximilian  conceived  the  idea  of 
converting  the  castle  into  a Mexican  Miramar,  and  the  im- 
perial architect,  Rodriguez  Arangoiti,  was  ordered  to  reno- 
vate it  and  decorate  it  in  the  Tuscan  style.  The  building 
was  fitted  up  luxuriously,  the  corridors  were  adorned  with 
voluptuous  pictures  after  the  style  of  those  of  a Pompeiian 
villa,  and  the  grounds  were  terraced  and  improved.  The 
tangled  forest  at  the  rear  of  the  castle  was  cleared,  handsome 
roadways  were  cut  through  it,  and  the  place  soon  became 
the  prototype  of  the  beautiful  bosque  which  to-day  delights 
lovers  of  enchanting  vistas,  quiet  woodland  walks,  seques- 
tered nooks  and  flower-embowered  retreats.  Hitherto  the 
insecurity  of  the  suburbs  and  the  absence  of  passable  roads 
had  been  the  great  objection  to  suburban  residences,  and  by 
order  of  the  Empress  Carlota  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma  was 
completed,  and  a line  of  splendid  eucalyptus  trees  was  planted 
on  each  side,  along  its  entire  length.  To  the  initiative  of  the 
Empress  is  also  due  the  beautiful  hill-top  garden,  which  re- 
sembles, in  its  charming  simplicity,  the  Pincian  Garden  at 
Rome.  Because  of  the  vicissitudes  of  its  construction,  the 
castle  shows  no  distinct  and  sustained  architectural  character; 
but,  splendidly  poised  as  it  is,  high  above  the  beautiful 
grounds  and  overlooking  the  wide  Valley  of  Mexico,  it  forms 
with  its  fine  interior  one  of  the  most  impressive  “ sights”  of 
the  capital. 

The  varied  and  elaborate  furnishments  imported  by  Maximilian  for  the 
adornment  of  the  castle  were  many.  The  most  exquisite  productions  of 
Europe  were  installed  in  this  buen  retiro.  Numerous  marble  statues, 
alabaster  vases,  an  elaborate  set  of  silver-plate  used  by  the  royal  pair, 
and  many  minor  objects  are  now  on  exhibition  in  the  National  Museum. 
Splendid  ceramic  curios  in  the  shape  of  porcelain  pieces  decorated  with 
the  imperial  monogram  are  yet  to  be  found  in  the  antique  shops  of  the 
capital. 

The  Entrance  to  the  terrace,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Colegio 
Militarf  is  through  huge  gates  ornamented  with  bronze 
figures  of  soldiers  bearing  arms.  For  centrepieces  the  gates 
have  medallion  portraits  of  certain  of  the  cadets  who  per- 
ished when  the  castle  was  stormed  by  the  Americans.  Ad- 
mission cards  are  taken  up  by  the  Conserje , whose  office  is 
just  within  the  second  gates. 

We  enter  the  castle  through  the  small,  square  Salon  del  Re - 
loj , which  contains  some  handsome  antique  Spanish  carved 
chairs  and  a fine  (modern)  clock.  Adjoining  this  room  is  the 
Salon  Rojo  (red  room).  Crossing  the  Antesala  del  Bano  del 
President e,  we  enter  the  Recamara  Azul,  noteworthy  for  some 
exquisite  antique  furniture,  for  the  beautiful  blue  and  gold 


3S8  Route  42.  MEXICO  CITY  Chapultepec. 

catin  brocade  on  the  walls;  for  a clock  which  once  belonged  to 
tne  Emperor  Maximilian,  and  a massive  silver  epergne  which 
still  bears  the  monogram  of  that  ill-fated  monarch.  The  ad- 
joining Boudoir , once  the  favorite  room  of  the  Empress  Car- 
lota,  is  now  a reception  room.  The  pink  satin  brocade  on  the 
walls  and  the  maple  wood-work  are  modern.  In  the  next 
room  (also  a reception  room)  are  a pair  of  fine  Sevres  vases 
by  Gostier,  and  a suite  of  French  furniture,  upholstered  in 
Gobelin  tapestry,  presented  by  the  French  Government.  The 
finest  room  on  this  floor  is  the 

Comedor  (dining  salon),  finished  in  beautifully  carved  Al- 
satian oak,  with  a fine  (wood)  artesonado  ceiling  and  some  splen- 
did silver  epergnes  once  owned  by  Maximilian.  The  panels  in 
the  walls  are  covered  with  Gobelin  tapestries.  Very  inter- 
esting wall  decorations  are  those  in  El  Tresillo,  also  known 
as  the  Smoking  Room  (el  fumadero) , where  white  silk  figures 
of  knights  and  ladies,  appliqued  on  a maroon  satin  ground, 
are  engaged  in  playing  battle-door  and  shuttle-cock,  spinning 
tops,  bowling  and  Tvhatnot, — representing  scenes  in  the  life 
of  Henry  111  of  France.  We  return  through  the  dining-room 
to  the  stairway  leading  to  the  upper  floor.  The  uncomely 
bronze  figure  at  the  newel  post  is  of  European  origin.  Light 
is  admitted  through  the  colored  glass  let  into  the  roof. 
On  the  ceiling  around  this  sky-light  ( tragaluz ) are  18  coats- 
of-arms  dating  from  1474  to  1867,  and  representing  the  sover- 
eigns in  whose  names  the  country  was  ruled  during  that  period. 
The  eagle,  with  the  date  1521,  represents  the  emblem  of 
Cuauhtemoc,  last  prince  of  the  Aztecs.  At  the  top  of  the  stairs 
is  a small  landing  called  El  Descanso  de  la  E scaler  a,  and  im- 
mediately to  the  r.  is  the  fine  glassed-in  corridor  known  as  La 
VitriTia.  The  five  female  figures  are  Ceres,  Diane,  Hebe,  Flore 
and  Pomone ; the  work  is  of  French  origin.  Opening  out  on  to 
this  corredor  is  the  attractive 

Salon  de  Embajadores,  a dream  of  pink  and  gold  in  the 
Louis  XV  style,  with  a carpet  carrying  views  of  the  castle, 
and  with  huge  silver  candelabra  that  once  adorned  the  apart- 
ments of  the  Empress  Carlota.  The  huge  gilt  chandelier  is 
worth  looking  at.  The  president  often  receives  distinguished 
visitors  in  this  room.  At  the  S.  end  of  La  Vitrina  (note  the 
view  obtainable  from  the  little  square  windows  in  the  glass) 
are  a dainty  bath-room  and  a suite  of  apartments  reserved  for 
distinguished  visitors.  The  porcelain  clock,  the  Persian  carpet 
and  the  Empire  furniture  and  hangings  are  attractive.  The 
Private  Apartments  (rarely  shown)  of  the  President’s  wife  are 
noteworthy  for  the  exquisite  satin  brocades  on  the  walls  and 
for  the  Persian  carpets.  Descending  to  the  floor  below  we 
enter,  from  the  S.  side  of  the  castle,  the 

Private  Office  of  the  President.  In  the  room  adjoin- 
ing the  waiting-room  is  a picture  (the  work  of  Francisco  de 


Chapultepec. 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  389 


P.  Mendoza  in  1902)  representing  General  Diaz  receiving  the 
acclamations  of  his  victorious  troops  in  the  Plaza  at  Puebla 
on  the  celebrated  2d  of  April,  1867.  On  the  curved  scroll  at 
the  foot  of  the  painting  is  the  Proclamation,  in  Spanish,  of  the 
General  to  his  troops: 

“Companions  in  Arms!  I wish  to  be  first  to  pay  tribute  to  your  hero- 
ism. The  entire  nation  and  posterity  will  later  perpetuate  your  glory. 
Ye  have  written  another  memorable  date  in  this  city  where  Zaragoza 
immortalized  his  name  on  May  5th,  and  henceforth  the  2d  of  April 
will  loom  large  on  the  calendar  of  National  glories. 

“I  expected  much  of  you;  I have  seen  you  answer  the  country’s  call 
to  arms  at  Miahuatlan,  and  in  La  Carbonera,  in  Jalapa  and  in  Oaxaca, 
and  each  time  you  came  with  the  guns  taken  from  the  enemy.  You  had 
fought  naked  and  hungry,  turning  your  backs  upon  glory,  and  yet  your 
exploits  in  Puebla  have  gone  beyond  my  expectations. 

“A  fortified  city,  with  reason  termed  unconquerable,  and  which  the 
finest  soldiers  of  the  world  were  unable  to  take  by  assault,  has  yielded  to 
the  first  efforts  of  your  strength.  The  garrison  and  all  the  immense  stores 
of  war  material  accumulated  by  the  enemy  are  the  trophies  of  your 
victory. 

“Soldiers:  The  country  is  deeply  indebted  to  you.  This  rending  strug- 
gle cannot  prolong  itself.  You  have  given  proofs  of  your  irresistible 
valor.  Who  would  dare  to  measure  forces  with  the  conquerors  of  Puebla? 
Independence  and  Republican  institutions  are  assured:  a country  with 
such  soldiers  can  never  be  oppressed  or  conquered. 

“Intrepid  in  combat  and  moderate  in  the  use  of  victory,  you  have 
1 captivated  the  admiration  of  this  city  by  your  boldness,  and  its  gratitude 
by  your  discipline. 

“ WThat  General  would  not  be  proud  to  be  your  leader?  While  he  can 
count  upon  you,  your  friend,  Porfirio  Diaz , will  consider  himself  invin- 
cible.” 

The  painting  shows  the  plaza  bare  of  the  fine  trees  which 
i now  adorn  it.  The  corner  room,  where  the  president  works, 
contains  a long,  richly  carved  table  spread  with  the  portfolios 
of  the  Minister  of  War,  Justice,  etc.  The  fine  modern  clock 
i rings  the  Westminster  chime  on  a series  of  8 bells. 

The  tunnel  elevator  connects  with  these  offices  through 
a passage  leading  into  the  ante  sala.  The  terrace  entrance  to 
this  elevator  is  covered  by  a picturesque  kiosk  near  the  marble 
stair  which  leads  to  the  upper  floor.  At  the  r.  and  1.  of  this 
stair  is  an  alabaster  vase  with  Maximilian’s  monogram.  On  the 
E.  and  N.  sides  of  the  castle,  the  roofs  of  the  corridors  are  deco- 
rated after  the  style  of  a Pompeiian  villa.  In  the  Conserjeria 
, there  may  sometimes  be  seen  a very  elaborate  marquetry 
1 secretaire  of  inlaid  wood  and  mother-of-pearl.  It  is  compara- 
tively modern,  of  Mexican  make. 

The  View  from  the  Upper  E.  Terrace  is  indubitably  the 
finest  of  its  kind,  and  one  of  the  most  beguiling  in  Mexico.  The 
eye  embraces  hundreds  of  square  miles  of  the  S.-W.  portion 
of  the  grand  Valley,  which  here  is  sentinelled  by  the  snow- 
crowned  volcanoes  of  Popocatepetl  and  Iztaccihuatl , delimned 
1 by  the  jagged  monarchs  of  the  Ajusco  and  the  Pachuca  ranges, 
and  crowned  in  the  centre  by  the  ancient  metropolis  of  the 
1 Aztec  kings  and  Spanish  viceroys.  The  gaze  rests  upon  a 


390  Route  42.  MEXICO  CITY  Chapultepec. 

score  or  more  clustered  villages,  each  with  its  church  spires 
and  domes  glistening  white  in  the  yellow  light.  Usually  the 
Valley  swoons  beneath  waves  of  sempiternal  sunshine  charged 
with  the  crisp  tang  of  a matchless  April  morning  at  the  North, 
and  through  them,  like  the  softly  pulsing  current  of  a sub- 
conscious thought,  there  breathes  a monotone  of  summer 
insect  song  and  the  ceaseless  hum  of  active  human  life.  About 
the  castle  the  air  is  redolent  of  fragrant  sub-tropical  flowers 
and  alive  with  bird  trillings.  The  sky  which  broods  above  is 
of  a winsome,  dimpling  blue,  quite  Italian  in  its  charm  and 
color.  The  polychrome-tiled  domes  of  the  city  churches  — 
sturdy  reminders  of  Colonial  days  — flash  heliographic  sig- 
nals across  the  Valley,  and  from  their  tall  campanarios  there 
occasionally  ride  down  on  the  wind  the  deep  tones  of  their 
ancient  bells.  The  mellow  voice  of  the  great  bell  of  Santa 
Maria  de  Guadalupe , in  the  Cathedral  tower,  is  easily  heard 
here,  3 miles  from  the  plaza.  Lake  Texcoco,  like  a huge,  highly 
polished  mirror  in  a dusty  frame,  lies  beyond  the  city  at  the 
E.  To  the  N.  of  it  is  the  hallowed  shrine  of  that  Indian  Prin- 
cess, the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe , and  the  spires  of  her  sanctu- 
ary overlook  the  magic  well,  the  hill,  and  the  quiet  graves 
of  Tepeyac.  There  Santa  Anna  lies,  perchance  dreaming  re- 
gretfully of  his  part  in  the  American  invasion,  when  alien, 
hurtling  shells  burst  within  and  tore  the  heart  of  this  old  castle 
whereon  we  stand.  At  the  N.-W.  is  a range  of  jejune  hills, 
several  white-walled  haciendas . and  the  sacrosanct  hill  and 
chapel  of  Nuestra  Sefiora  de  los  Remedies  — patroness  of 
the  Spaniards  in  New  Spain.  In  the  foreground  are  the  peace- 
ful villages  of  Tacuba,  Popotla,  Tlaxpana  and  a host  of  ham- 
lets and  colonial.  Around  to  the  W.  is  the  Fundition  Nacionalf 
the  Casa  Mata , the  battlefield  of  Molino  del  Rey  and  the 
weather-beaten  old  mill  — the  military  key  to  Chapultepec. 
Between  them  and  Tacubaya  at  the  S.,  in  a shaded  grove  of 
weeping  willows  and  Thuja  trees,  is  Dolores , the  sad,  silent, 
mirthless  city  of  the  dead.  San  Angel , Coyoacan , Churubusco 
and  Tlalpan  string  out  from  W.  to  E.  along  the  sunlit  slopes  of 
Ajusco , like  huge  white  cameos  on  an  emerald  field.  If  it  be 
early  February  a strong  glass  will  show  the  great  color  blotches 
which  mark  the  towns,  to  be  fruit  blossoms  warmed  into 
fragrant  life  by  an  ardent  sun.  The  fine  Paseo  de  la  Reforma 
— the  Empress  Carlota's  eucalyptus  path  — stretches  like  a 
plumb-line  to  the  equestrian  statue  of  Charles  IV  — whose 
predecessor’s  money  built  this  glorious  summer  retreat.  To  the 
left  and  right  of  the  paseo  are  the  new  homes  of  the  capital’s 
foreign  residents.  The  roadway  which  stretches  out  toward 
the  N.  from  the  castle  is  the  Calzada  de  la  Veronica  — named 
for  that  tender  episode  on  the  road  to  Calvary.  The  fine 
Calzada  de  la  Exposition,  within  the  Park  enclosure,  leads  to 
the  adjacent  and  attractive  Chapultepec  Heights  Colony, 
described  hereinafter. 


Chapultepec  Heights . MEXICO  CITY  390a 

Chapultepec  Heights  Colony  ( Colonia  de  las  lomas  de 
Chapultepec) , a new  and  unusually  attractive  colony  occupy- 
ing upward  of  2,000  acres  which  once  comprised  the  old  Haci- 
enda Morales , on  an  elevated  plateau  at  the  immediate  rear 
of  the  castle  grounds,  is  the  most  favorably  located  of  any  of 
the  city  colonias,  and  no  doubt  is  destined  to  be  the  premier 
colony  of  the  capital.  It  occupies  a commanding  position  high 
above  the  city  floor,  on  a sunlit  slope  backed  by  a splendid 
mountain  range,  and  with  views  which  include  the  castle,  the 
forest,  the  wide  city,  Popocatepetl,  Iztaccihuatl,  and  all  the 
mt.  giants  which  environ  the  valley. 

A more  ideal  situation  could  scarcely  be  imagined  for  a 
dwelling;  a beautiful,  high,  healthy,  tranquil,  gently  sloping 
mesa,  with  magnificent  vistas,  fine  air,  yet  within  easy  reach 
(15  min.  by  autobus , camion , motor,  etc.)  of  the  city  spread  out 
at  the  foot  of  the  slope. 

In  few  places  of  the  world  have  nature  and  art  combined  so 
harmoniously  as  in  this  cool,  brilliant,  sunlit  slope,  where  a 
tropical  latitude  is  minimized  by  a delightful  altitude;  where 
a charming,  semi-medieval  castle,  palms  and  snow-clad  vol- 
canoes, city  spires  and  country  shrines,  and  one  of  the  finest 
forest  reserves  on  the  continent,  are  all  segments  in  a com- 
prehensive view. 

Between  Chapultepec  and  the  Colonia,  flanking  the  wide 
Calzada  de  la  Exposcion,  is  a Jardin  Botanico  where  lovely 
plants  from  many  climes  delight  the  eye  and  senses.  Near  by 
is  a Jardin  Zoologico  filled  with  birds  and  animals  from  many 
countries.  Both  are  government  undertakings,  and  both  form 
items  in  a great  civic  plan  to  enrich  and  beautify  the  neighbor- 
hood. The  Government  Wireless  Station  stands  at  the  right. 

As  far  back  as  1629  Don  Rodrigo  Pacheco  Osorio,  Marques 
de  Cerralvo  and  15th  Viceroy  (1624-35)  of  New  Spain,  sug- 
gested the  advisability  of  transferring  the  vice-regal  capital 
from  its  present  situation  (then  ravaged  almost  constantly 
by  miasmatic  and  other  endemic  diseases,  and  subjected  to 
almost  continual  inundation)  to  the  air-swept  reaches  back  of 
Chapultepec  Forest,  but  it  was  not  until  1783  that  the  Viceroy 
Don  Matias  de  Galvez  (see  p.  386)  acted  upon  the  suggestion 
I and  erected  a summer  home  which  eventually  developed  into 
I Chapultepec  Castle. 

The  years  sped  by  and  had  merged  into  centuries  when  an 
American  company,  the  Mexican  International  Trust  Co., 
S.  A.  {Samuel  W . Rider,  president)  saw  the  tremendous  pos- 
sibilities of  the  region  and  undertook  to  acquire  it.  Patient 
persistence  was  needed  to  overcome  local  prejudice,  Spanish 
land-grants,  ancient  titles  and  financial  and  other  opposition, 
but  Chapultepec  Heights  Colony  finally  became  a beautiful 
reality.  The  same  company  had  brought  into  being  the  ex- 
tensive and  now  thickly  settled  Colonia  Cuauhtemoc,  in  the 


3906 


MEXICO  CITY  Lomas  de  ChapuUepec. 

city  proper,  the  Altavista  Colony  and  the  San  Angel  Inn , at 
San  Angel,  and  the  Colonia  Mir  aval,  at  Cuernavaca.  The 
fact  that  property  along  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma  has  multi- 
plied in  value  30  times  in  the  last  30  years,  and  that  in  20 
years  Colonia  Ro??ia  holdings  have  increased  15  times  their 
original  worth,  would  indicate  that  this  American  venture  is 
destined  to  reap  a success  greater  than  its  promoters  have 
dreamed  of. 

The  Colonia  contains  sixty-five  miles  of  streets  with  many 
fine  boulevards,  some  of  them  135  ft.  wide.  There  are  broad 
walks  flanked  bv  flowering  trees  and  shrubs,  plazas,  parks, 
glorietas,  bridal-paths,  golf-links,  children's  playgrounds, 
tennis-courts,  fields  for  baseball,  football  and  polo,  and  at- 
tractive club  houses.  American-built  bungalows  are  the  out- 
standing architectural  features. 

A deep,  rocky  barranca  (ravine)  runs  through  a section  of 
the  vast  estate,  and  beyond  this,  on  still  higher  ground  (from 
250  to  500  ft.  above  the  city)  are  mir adores,  or  lookouts,  and 
an  Observation  Park  whence  one  commands  entrancing  views 
over  the  colony  to  the  castle  and  city,  thence  to  the  volcanoes. 
Giant  Ajusco  rises  at  the  right,  Los  Remedios  is  visible  at  the 
left,  while  far  across  the  valley  are  the  Toluca  Mountains, 
and  the  glistening  spires  of  Guadalupe . The  changing  lights 
at  sunrise  and  sunset  often  are  gorgeous,  and  from  the  heights 
the  delighted  eye  ranges  over  one  of  the  finest  prospects  in 
nature. 

Whosoever  finds  himself  at  this  high  vantage  point  when  the 
moon  is  full,  and  who  fails  to  see  the  old  castillo  when  Luna 
sheds  her  pale,  gossamer  radiance  over  it  and  pencils  deep 
shadows  beneath  the  overhanging  eaves,  or  when  she  lays 
slender,  searching,  silvery  fingers  between  the  outspread 
branches  of  the  giant  forest  trees  and  traces  elfin  shadows  or 
lace  fretwork  on  the  gravelled  walks  beneath,  loses  something 
out  of  his  life  which  can  never  be  quite  replaced.  Then,  save 
for  the  rush  of  the  little  stream  in  the  barranca,  a solemn 
stillness  permeates  the  spot.  Silent  are  the  city  bells  and  the 
erstwhile  happy  birds,  which  now  sleep  in  their  nests  in  the 
topmost  branches  of  the  tall  ahuehuetes  of  the  Chapultepec 
forest.  The  great  castle  looms  much  larger  than  during  the 
day  when  the  sword-like  sunbeams  cut  the  clinging  shadows 
away  from  it,  and  with  its  sombrely  lustrous  roof-points  blink- 
ing at  the  face  of  the  moon  it  makes  a picture  which  one  does 
not  soon  forget. 

LTnder  the  bewitching  influence  of  this  radiant  orb  the 
memory  harkens  t^ack  to  the  glittering  Indian  and  vice-regal 
processions  which  anciently  wound  beneath  the  great  forest 
trees  and  to  the  point  where  the  castillo  stands,  and  one  can 
almost  hear  the  soft,  rhythmical  tramp  of  ghostly  feet,  the 
clank  of  armor,  the  murmur  of  long-dead  voices  and  the  chant 


MEXICO  CITY 


42.  Route.  391 


of  the  priestly  ritual  that  accompanied  the  processions  of  vice- 
regal palanquins  and  mail-clad  conquistador es.  Thronging 
memories  of  a thousand  years  cling  about  the  great  forest, 
some  of  the  old  trees  of  which  saw  the  first  Spaniards  who 
came  to  Tenochtitlan,  and  perchance  knew  of  Montezuma  and 
the  barbaric  splendor  of  his  imperial  court.  Enshrined,  too, 
in  their  noble  groves,  mayhap  are  recollections  of  the  first 
Americans  — certainly  of  those  who  fought  through  them 
during  the  unhappy  period  of  the  Mexican  war. 

Bayard  Taylor  thought  the  most  beautiful  view  in  the 
world  was  that  of  the  Vale  of  Cashmere,  and  after  it,  the 
Valley  of  Mexico  from  Chapultepec  heights.  The  vista  has 
changed  since  “Montezuma  and  his  predecessors  sought  dis- 
traction from  administrative  cares  and  communed  with 
dryad  oracles  in  the  hallowed  groves  of  ancient  AhuehueteSj” 
but  it  is  still  surpassingly  beautiful,  with  a charm  that  will 
scarcely  fade  from  the  minds  of  those  who  love  to  view  life 
from  the  high  places. 

To  the  world-traveller  the  magnificent  forest,  the  high-poised 
castillo  dreaming  of  the  vanished  glories  of  viceregal  and  im- 
perial days,  the  ancient  Aztec  stronghold  and  the  mountains 
which  overshadow  it  as  the  Himalayas  overshadow  Darjeeling, 
recall  other  beauty  spots  in  other  lands  — Nikko,  Chuzenji, 
Buitenzorg,  Kandy,  Simla,  A j mere  — ; but  few  if  any  of  them 
surpass,  in  recessive  charm,  this  age-old  stronghold  of  the 
early  Tzins.  In  a way  it  is  sui  generis,  and  once  seen  it  is  never 
forgotten. 

Pedestrians  will  find  the  tramp  over  the  hills  from  Chapul- 
tepec Heights  to  San  Angel  a delightful  excursion.  Each  is 
practically  within  sight  of  one  another,  and  at  the  San  Angel 
terminus  the  beautiful  San  Angel  Inn  with  its  ecelesiological 
charm  awaits  one.  The  volcanoes  of  Popocatepetl  and  Iztac- 
cihuatl  are  always  within  view,  while  from  the  elevated  places 
magnificent  and  far-reaching  views  are  had  of  the  city,  Guad- 
alupe and  the  environing  country.  — Not  far  to  the  right  of 
the  Colonia,  visible  in  the  distance  (about  3 M.),  is  the  historic 
town  of  Naucdlpam  and  the  Shrine  of  Nuestra  Senora  de  los 
Remedies  (described  at  p.  191). 

The  Panteon  de  Dolores,  S.-W.  of  Chapultepec  castle  (V. 
PL  B,  3)  on  the  slope  of  a hill  called  Tabla  de  Dolores , reached 
by  the  Dolores  tranvias  at  frequent  intervals  from  the  Zocalo, 
was  opened  in  1875,  and  comprises  nearly  300  acres.  More 
than  160,000  persons  are  buried  here. 

Environs  of  Mexico  City. 

Guadalupe-Hidalgo.  Tlalpan.  The  Country  Club.  Churubusco. 
Coyoacan.  The  Pedregal.  San  Angel.  La  Pied  ad.  Mixcoac.  Tacu- 

BAYA.  POPOTLA.  TACUBA.  AzCAPOTZ  ALCO. 

The  Environs  of  the  capital  have  a number  of  special  attractions  in  the 
several  shrines  (chief  among  them  that  of  Our  Lady  of  Guadalupe) , and 
pretty  suburban  towns  with  their  old  churches  and  fine  settings.  The 


392  Route  Jfl. 


GUADALUPE 


most  important  of  these  are  described  below.  The  plan  of  the  Valley  of 
Mexico  is  referred  to  as  “V.  PI.”  to  differentiate  it  from  the  plan  of  the 
city.  (See  opposite  page  391.) 

Guadalupe-Hidalgo  (usually  called  Guadalupe  and  pro- 
nounced Wah-dah-foop-e),  a suburban  town  (V.  PI.  C,  2) 
3 miles  N.-E.  of  the  Plaza  Mayor , at  once  the  most  sacred 
and  the  most  popular  Catholic  shrine  in  the  Republic,  is 
reached  by  the  tranvias  of  the  Guadalupe  line  (in  15  min., 
fare  10  c.  1st  cl.)  which  start  from  the  N.-E.  corner  of  the 
plaza  garden. 

The  cars  pass  along  the  S.  side  of  the  Cathedral,  then  turn  N.  and 
traverse  one  of  the  oldest  sections  of  the  city;  passing  the  quaint  Plaza 
and  Church  of  Santo  Domingo , the  Escuelade  Medicina,  the  old  Parr o quia 
de  Santa  Ana  with  the  ch.  of  the  same  name;  the  Hipodromo  de  Peralvillo 
and  the  Estacion  del  Ferrocarril  Hidalgo  y Nordeste  (on  the  r.).  After  cross- 
ing the  track  of  the  Mexican  Rly.,  the  car-line  parallels  the  old  Guadalupe 
Calzada  (on  the  1.),  constructed  in  1675,  and  flanked  by  a double  row  of 
chopos  (black-poplars)  and  alamos  (white-poplars).  Formerly  it  was  the 
custom  for  ostensibly  devout  pilgrims  to  traverse  this  old  highway  on  their 
knees,  stopping  and  praying  at  each  of  the  14  altars  or  stations  of  the  cross 
(most  of  them  now  demolished)  which  then  stretched  between  the  city  and 
the  sanctuary.  The  lakes  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  and  the  snow-clad  moun- 
tains of  Popocatepetl  and  Iztaccihuatl  are  visible  on  the  r.  Near  Guadalupe 
are  the  ferruginous  springs  of  the  Hacienda  de  Aragon  (waters  about  77° 
Fahr.),  now  little  frequented.  As  the  cars  enter  the  town  they  turn  to 
the  E.,  then  traverse  several  narrow  calles , and  finally  stop  in  front  of  the 
door  of  the  Basilica  de  Guadalupe , which  faces  a paved  square,  a pretty 
garden,  and  a bronze  Statue  of  Miguel  Hidalgo  y Costilla  (erected  by  the 
Ayuntamiento  in  1886-1899)  holding  aloft  his  war  standard  emblazoned 
with  the  image  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe.  The  fountain  facing  the  statue 
is  called  La  Fuente  Guadalupana.  The  tram-cars  are  apt  to  be  crowded  on 
Sundays  and  holidays. 

The  Town  — named  in  honor  of  the  Virgin  and  of  .the 

Eatriot  Miguel  Hidalgo  — stretches  around  the  S.  and  E. 

ase  of  the  Cerrito  de  Tepeyacac  (Aztec  — “ point  of  the  hill  ”), 
and  has  a population  of  some  10,000,  which  is  swelled  to  60- 
100,000  during  the  great  pilgrimages  (Romerias,  peregrina- 
ciones)  which  the  Indians  of  the  Republic  make  to  the  shrine. 
The  houses  are  usually  one  story,  and  the  church  and  hill 
dominate  the  landscape.  The  place  wears  a perpetual  air  of 
joyousness;  the  country  Indians,  by  their  presence,  rendering 
it  particularly  interesting  to  foreigners.  The  house  in  the 
CaUe  del  Bosque , No.  22  (tablet),  was  General  Porfirio  Diaz's 
headquarters  in  1867.  Before  the  Conquest,  the  Cerro  was  the 
site  of  an  Aztec  temple  dedicated  to  Tonantzin , protectress 
of  the  Totonoqui  Indians,  and  goddess  of  the  Earth  and  of 
Corn.  The  little  settlement  which  grew  up  about  the  sanc- 
tuary after  the  apparition  of  the  Virgin  was  called  Tepeaquillo. 
It  was  made  a villa  (town)  June  24,  1751,  and  was  raised  to 
the  rank  of  a ciudad  — with  the  name  of  Guadalupe-Hidalgo  — 
Feb.  12,  1828.  The  town  was  also  originally  called  Quaut - 
lalapan,  which  (says  Beaumont)  was  corrupted  by  the  Span- 
iards into  Guadalupe.  (Historians  derive  the  latter  word  from 


GUADALUPH  J+2.  Route.  393 

the  Arabic  guada,  river,  and  the  Latin  lupus,  its  signification 
then  being  wolf  river.) 

The  spot  is  the  focus  of  the  most  fervent  and  powerful  reli- 
gious cult  in  the  Mexican  Republic,  — the  holy  of  holies  of  the 
Catholic  Apostolic  Roman  Church,  — and  it  has  been  for 
centuries  the  place  toward  which  the  eyes  and  thoughts  of 
thousands  of  Mexicans  have  turned.  The  keystone  of  this 
cult  is  the  alleged  miraculous  picture  of  the  Virgin  of  Guada- 
lupe, which,  according  to  tradition,  dates  from  1531,  ten  years 
and  four  months  after  the  Conquest  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico. 

The  Shrine  of  the  Virgin  is  to  Mexicans  what  the  Ganges 
is  to  the  Hindus,  Mecca  to  the  Mahommedans,  and  Nikko  to  the 
Japanese.  It  is  believed  that  the  Indians  regard  the  image  of 
the  Virgin  as  a divine  manifestation  of  their  primitive  goddess 
( diosa ),  rather  than  the  divinity  of  the  Spanish-Mexicans, 
and  on  Dec.  12  of  each  year  (a  fiesta  which  the  Indians  cele- 
brate with  great  enthusiasm  as  their  special  holy  day)  the 
ch.  is  given  over  to  them;  their  celebration,  unhampered  by 
priests,  being  conducted  in  their  own  way.  Foreigners  find 
this  unique,  but  trying.  The  unhygienic  and  ignorant  Indians 
overrun  the  village  to  such  an  extent  that  the  problem  of  pre- 
venting pestilence  is  a serious  one  to  the  authorities.  The  ch. 
is  usually  packed  to  suffocation:  the  devotees  bring  habits 
and  an  entomological  congress  as  varied  as  they  are  astonish- 
ing, all  the  ch.  decorations  within  reach  are  kissed  to  a high 
polish  and  thoroughly  fumigated  later,  and  all  breathe  freer 
when  the  frenzied  shriners  have  returned  to  their  different 
homes.  Many  of  the  pilgrims  are  wretchedly  poor,  and  to 
maintain  themselves  during  the  journey  — which  not  a few 
make  on  foot  — they  bring  curious  home-made  knick-knacks, 
pottery,  eatables,  blankets  and  whatnot,  which  they  sell  along 
the  route  and  at  impromptu  stands  erected  near  the  ch.  and 
plaza.  These  stands  are  notable  for  a kind  of  small  biscuit 
(biscocho)  called  Gorditas  de  la  Virgen  (little  fat  ones  of  the 
Virgin),  made  of  maiz  de  Cacahuazintla  (a  large-grained  corn 
resembling  horses’-teeth)  from  the  valleys  of  Toluca  and 
Tulancingo.  The  gorditas  sell  at  two  for  one  centavo,  and  the 
hungry  Indians  eat  them  in  amazing  quantities. 

Minor  Indian  festivals  are  held  Nov.  22;  on  almost  every 
day  in  Dec.,  and.  on  many  days  during  the  remaining  months 
of  the  year.  A higher  class  festival,  in  which  the  Archbishop 
and  the  Catholic  clergy  take  part,  is  held  on  Oct.  12  (anni- 
versary of  the  crowning  of  the  Virgin)  and  on  Jan.  12. 

The  original  Spanish  Virgin  of  Guadalupe,  which  is  still  preserved  in  a 
fine  camarin  in  a special  chapel  adjoining  the  Gerdnimite  Convent  of 
Guadalupe,  Estremadura,  Spain,  is  a figure  of  the  madonna  said  to  have 
been  carved  by  St.  Luke  and  presented  by  Gregory  the  Great  to  San 
Leandro,  the  Gothic  uprooter  of  Arianism.  According  to  tradition  it  was 
miraculously  preserved  during  the  six  centuries  of  the  Moorish  occupa- 
tion of  Spain,  and  was  rediscovered  (1330)  by  one  Giles,  a cowkeeper 


394  Route  42.  GUADALUPE  History . 

of  Cdceres.  A hermitage  was  built  for  it,  then  a chapel;  it  finally  passed 
into  the  hands  of  the  Geronimite  monks,  who,  by  shrewdly  exploiting  it, 
became  so  rich  that  in  Spain  the  proverb  ran . 

“ Quien  es  conde,  y desea  ser  duque 
Metase  fraile  en  Guadalupe 

When  the  convento  de  los  Geronimos  was  suppressed  one  of  the  rooms 
was  found  almost  filled  with  gold,  and  the  wine  cellars  were  proportion- 
ately rich  in  choice  products  of  the  vineyards. 

One  cannot  but  admire  the  positive  genius  of  Zumarraga  in  planning 
that  the  Virgin  appear  in  Mexico  not  as  the  carved  figure,  nor  yet  in  the 
likeness  of  a Spanish  woman,  but  rather  in  the  guise  of  an  Indian  prin- 
cess with  some  resemblance  to  the  revered  goddess  Tonantzin , thus 
striking  the  Indian  population  at  the  most  vulnerable  point. 

Those  who  desire  further  information  on  the  subject  of  the  Spanish 
Virgin  can  consult,  Historia  de  Nuestra  Seiiora  de  Guadalupe , by  Gabriel 
de  Talavera,  Toledo,  1597.  With  particular  reference  to  the  Mexican 
apparition : Miguel  Cabrera,  Aparicion  dela  Yirgen  de  Guadalupe,  Mexico, 
1756.  (At  a meeting  of  artists  in  Mexico  in  1751  Cabrera  was  selected  to 
make  a copy  of  the  painting  for  presentation  to  Benedict  XIV.  This 
copy  was  the  most  celebrated  ever  taken.  He  wrote  a lengthy  critique 
on  the  original  to  show  that  it  was  not  painted  by  any  human  agency.) 
Bernal  Diaz,  Historia  V erdadera.  Many  translations  and  reprints.  Lasso 
de  la  Vega,  Huei  Tlamahuicoltica,  Mexico,  1649;  Boturini , Idea.  Hist. 
Gen.  A mer.,  Madrid,  1846;  Vetancurt,  Teatro  Mexicano,  Mexico,  1698; 
Sanchez,  Imogen  de  Guadalupe,  Mex.,  1648;  Cabrera,  Maravilla  Americana, 
Mex.,  1756;  Florencia,  Zodiaco  Mariano,  Mex.,  1755;  Florencia,  Estrella 
del  Norte,  Mex.,  1741;  Castro,  Octavo  Maravilla  Mexicana,  Mex.,  1729. 

History:  On  the  morning  of  Sat.  Dec.  9,  1531,  an  Indian 
of  low  birth,  one  Quauhtlatohua,  who  had  received  baptism 
a few  years  before  and  had  been  christened  Juan  Diego  (John 
James),  was  proceeding  from  his  native  town  of  Cuauhtitlan 1 
(p.  137)  to  Tlaltelolco,  to  hear  mass  and  to  receive  instruction. 
On  his  way  thither  he  was  obliged  to  pass  the  rugged,  sterile 
hill  of  Tepeyacac  (called  also  Quautlalpan  and  Tepeyae),  on 
which  there  grew  no  vegetation  except  the  cactus  and  stunted 
shrubs,  and  which  was  seamed  with  fissures  and  pierced  with 
cavities.  “ While  crossing  the  slope  of  this  barren  mount, 
harmonious  strains  of  sweetest  music  enrapt  his  attention, 
and  turning  his  eyes  upward  in  the  direction  whence  the 
melody  came,  with  increased  wonder  he  beheld  an  arc  of 
glorious  coloring.  In  its  centre  shone  a brilliant  light,  such 
as  that  shed  from  a heavenly  throne.  The  rocks  around  were 
resplendent  with  prismatic  hues,  and  seemed  to  him  masses 
of  opal,  sapphire,  and  burnished  gold.  Gradually  he  drew 
nearer,  and  in  the  radiance  beheld  a lady  of  beautiful  coun- 
tenance and  form,  who  in  a gentle  and  assuring  voice  called 
him  Hijo  mio}  my  son,  and  bade  him  ascend  to  where  she 
stood.  When  he  reached  the  spot  the  lady  told  him  that  she 
was  the  Virgin  Mary,  and  it  was  her  wish  that,  on  the  place 
where  she  was  standing,  a church  should  be  built.  She  then 
charged  him  to  hasten  to  the  bishop  and  inform  him  of  her 
commands.  Juan  Diego  at  once  proceeded  on  his  mission, 

1 Diego  was  born  at  Cuauhtitlan,  and  at  the  time  of  the  appearance  was 
living  at  Tolpetlac.  He  was  58  years  old. 


GUADALUPE 


42.  Route.  395 


and  told  his  story  to  the  bishop  Fray  Juan  de  Zum^rraga. 
The  bishop,  however,  gave  no  credence  to  the  tale,  and  Juan 
returned  to  the  spot  where  he  had  seen  the  vision.  Again  the 
Virgin  appeared  and  bade  him  on  the  morrow  repeat  to  the 
bishop  her  message.  More  attention  was  paid  to  him  on  this 
occasion.  The  prelate  questioned  him  closely,  but  telling  him 
that  his  statements  were  insufficient,  bade  him  bring  some 
sign  from  the  lady  by  wffiich  he  might  recognize  her  divine 
command.  Under  the  impression  that  the  Indian  was  labor- 
ing under  an  illusion,  the  bishop  directed  two  persons  to  follow 
him  unobserved  and  watch  his  proceedings.  This  was  done. 
And  when  Juan  Diego  approached  the  bridge  spanning  a small 
stream  which  crossed  the  way,  he  disappeared  from  their  sight, 
nor  did  the  closest  watch  discover  him.  Returning  to  the 
bishop  they  made  their  report,  and  expressed  the  belief  that 
the  Indian  was  guilty  of  witchcraft. 

“ Meanwhile  Juan  pursued  his  course,  unconscious  of  the 
miracle  performed  in  his  behalf,  and  reported  to  the  Virgin  the 
result  of  his  mission.  She  bade  him  come  to  her  on  the  mor- 
row, when  a sure  and  certain  sign  would  be  given  him.  He 
did  not,  however,  carry  out  the  Virgin’s  injunctions,  owing 
to  the  condition  of  his  uncle,  Juan  Bernardino,  who  had  fallen 
ill  with  a fever  which  the  Indians  called  cocolixtle.  But  on 
the  second  day,  which  was  the  12th  of  December,  while  on  his 
way  to  Tlaltelolco  to  obtain  the  services  of  a priest  for  the 
dying  relative,  he  remembered  his  neglect,  and  in  his  sim- 
plicity hoped  to  avoid  meeting  the  apparition  by  taking  an- 
other path.  On  arriving  at  a small  fountain  (now  called  the 
Pocito  de  Nuestra  Senora  de  Guadalupe ),  he  perceived  the 
Virgin  descending  the  slope,  surrounded  by  the  same  efful- 
gence as  on  the  first  occasion.  The  vision  dazzled  him.  Con- 
science-stricken, yet  contrite,  he  fell  on  his  knees  trembling. 
But  the  Virgin  consoled  him,  and  bade  him  be  in  no  anxiety 
for  his  uncle,  who  was  well  already.  She  then  bade  him  ascend 
the  hill,  cull  the  roses  he  would  there  find,  and  bring  them 
to  her  in  the  folds  of  his  mantle.  The  man  obeyed,  finding 
on  the  barren  summit  a miraculous  garden  of  roses  which  shed 
a delicious  perfume.  Gathering  as  he  had  been  bidden,  he 
carried  the  roses  to  the  holy  one,  who,  having  taken  them  in 
her  hands,  gave  them  back  to  the  Indian,  and  bade  him  carry 
them  unseen  by  any  one  to  the  bishop. 

“ On  arriving  at  the  bishop’s,  Juan  Diego  unfolded  his  mantle 
and  displayed  the  roses  as  the  required  sign,  and  behold,  a 
figure  of  the  Virgin  was  found  painted  upon  the  mantle!  Then 
all  acknowledged  the  holy  nature  of  the  apparition  and  bent 
their  knees  in  worship.  Zumarraga,  with  priestly  hand,  took 
from  the  shoulders  of  the  native  the  sacred  cloth,  and  rever- 
ently placed  it  in  his  oratory.  On  the  following  day  the  prelate, 
accompanied  by  his  household,  and  guided  by  Juan  Diego,  vis- 


396  Route  J$. 


GUADALUPE 


ited  the  spot  designated  by  the  Virgin.  His  mission  ended, 
Juan  Diego  returned,  accompanied  by  several  of  the  bishop’s 
followers.  On  their  arrival  at  Tolpetlac,  Juan  Bernardino  was 
found  to  be  in  perfect  health,  and  it  was  discovered  that  at 
the  same  hour  in  which  the  Virgin  had  told  Juan  Diego  of  his 
recovery  she  had  appeared  to  Bernardino,  restored  him  to 
health,  and  expressed  her  wishes  with  regard  to  the  erection 
of  a church. 

“Far  and  vide  spread  the  tidings  of  the  miracle,  and  the 
crowds  which  flocked  to  the  bishop’s  palace  to  see  the  divinely 
painted  figure  became  so  great  that  he  placed  it  on  the  altar 
of  the  Cathedral  (at  Mex.  City)  that  all  in  turn  might  venerate 
it.  There  it  remained  till  a shrine  was  erected  on  the  site 
indicated  by  Mary,  whither  it  was  transferred  in  a solemn 
procession  in  1532.”  The  nobility  of  the  Mexican  capital  pros- 
trated itself  before  the  picture  which  the  Spaniards  named 
Nuestra  Seiiora  de  Guadalupe  (in  honor  of  the  Guadalupe  of 
the  Geronimites),  and  the  Indians  Santa  Maria  de  Tequantlaxo- 
peuh.  Juan  Diego  and  his  uncle  Bernardino  became  the  serv- 
ants of  the  Virgin  in  her  sanctuary,  and  Juan  and  his  wife 
(Julia  Marfa),  took  the  vow  of  chastity,  and  thenceforth  lived 
in  a little  house  near  the  chapel.  Juan  Diego  “died  a most 
Christian  death  ” in  the  year  1548  (at  the  age  of  70  years), 
and  was  buried  in  the  church  near  the  Virgin’s  shrine. 

The  “ miraculous  ” apparition  set  the  Mexicans  almost  de- 
lirious with  joy  and  religious  enthusiasm.  Many  of  them 
changed  their  manner  of  living,  and  the  deep  devotion  of 
some  of  their  descendants  can  be  traced  to  this  happening.1 
The  ecclesiastical  orders  in  Mexico  immediately  set  about 
securing  Papal  recognition  of  the  apparition,  but  it  was  not 
until  1663,  more  than  a century  later,  that  Alexander  VII 
would  even  admit  the  relation  of  the  apparition,  and  he  or- 
dered its  investigation  by  the  Congregation  of  Rites.  By  this 
time  the  image  had  become  the  chief  object  of  veneration 
in  Mexico,  and  it  was  considered  the  true  Mexican  divinity. 
Dec.  12  was  set  apart  in  perpetuity  as  a day  of  holy  fes- 
tival in  the  Mexican  Virgin’s  honor,  and  a concession  for  a 
plenary  jubilee  to  be  held  on  this  date  was  obtained  from 
Pope  Clement  IX  in  1667. 

In  1736  Mexico  City  was  visited  by  a dreadful  pestilence,  — 
? natlazahuatl,  — and  the  affrighted  natives  promptly  elected 
the  Virgin  their  patron  saint.  It  is  said  she  caused  the  plague 

1 It  had  the  effect  also  of  stimulating  the  jealous  friars  in  other  parts  to 
active  research,  with  the  result  that  in  due  course  another  Juan  Diego 
came  into  prominence  inTlaxcala,  and  discovered  a spring  and  a miracu- 
lous picture  of  Nuestra  Setiora  de  Ocotlan  (comp.  p.  428).  Others  were 
found  in  swift  succession,  and  soon  Mexico  was  “ knee-deep  ” in  santos  and 
santas  “ miraculously  ” disclosed  to  humble  Indian  neophytes.  Scarcely 
a ch.  but  had  its  divine  patroness,  many  of  which  are  worshipped  to  this 
day. 


Church. 


GUADALUPE 


42.  Route.  397 


to  disappear.  The  prelates  continued  their  efforts  to  secure 
her  recognition,  which  was  finally  accorded,  though  grudg- 
! ingly,  by  a Papal  Bull  of  May  25,  1754,  two  hundred  and 
twenty-three  years  after  the  first  appearance.  Henceforth 
; the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  was  declared  the  Patroness  and 
Protectress  of  New  Spain,  and  the  image  became  the  official 
! and  venerated  symbol  of  the  Mexican  church  and  people. 

On  the  memorable  15th  of  Sept.  1810,  the  patriot  priest 
Miguel  Hidalgo  y Costilla  set  Mexico  aflame  by  taking  a pic- 
, ture  of  the  Virgin  from  the  parish  church  of  Atotonilco, 
placing  it  on  his  banner  and  declaring  her  to  be  the  patroness 
of  the  Mexicans  in  their  revolt  against  Spanish  misrule.  The 
Virgin  was  made  protectress  of  the  revolution,  and  Hidalgo’s 
temporary  successes  caused  the  rebels  to  adopt  “ Guadalupe  ” 
as  their  war-cry.  The  stimulus  to  the  cause,  arising  from  a 
religious  fanaticism  which  at  critical  periods  is  often  more 
potent  than  reason,  was  incalculable.  The  happy  issue  of  the 
War  for  Independence  further  endeared  the  Virgin  to  the 
nation,  and  one  of  the  first  acts  of  the  congress  of  the  new 
Republic  (Nov.  27,  1824)  was  to  decree  Dec.  12  a national 
holiday.  Prior  thereto,  Agustin  de  Iturbide,  the  first  Mexican 
Emperor  (1822),  created  an  Order  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe, 
with  its  corresponding  decoration.  The  first  president  of  the 
Republic,  Felix  Fernandez,  changed  his  name  to  Guadalupe 
Victoria.  Succeeding  presidents,  as  well  as  the  Emperor 
Maximilian,  made  solemn  official  pilgrimages  to  the  Virgin’s 
shrine.  When  the  American  army  under  General  Scott  was 
in  Mexico  City  in  1848,  the  Mexicans  appealed  to  the  Virgin  to 
remove  the  soldiers,  and  soon  thereafter  a treaty  of  peace  was 
signed  at  Guadalupe. 

A host  of  miracles  are  attributed  by  the  simple  Indians  to  the  Virgin 
whom  they  call  La  Virgen  India  de  Tepeyac.  Other  folks  less  simple 
believe  in  her  miraculous  powers.  Within  the  ch.  is  a painting  which 
depicts  in  a spirited  manner  the  first  miracle  said  to  have  been  per- 
formed by  the  image.  While  the  picture  was  being  transported  with 
great  solemnity  to  the  first  temple  erected  in  its  honor,  a number  of 
Indians  danced  in  front  of  the  procession.  One  of  these  accidentally 
discharged  an  arrow  which  lodged  in  the  jugular  vein  of  another  and 
caused  instant  death.  The  yet  warm  body  was  carried  to  the  image,  the 
| Virgin  reached  out  and  removed  the  arrow,  and  the  dead  man  returned  to 
I life  and  health  ! 

The  Collegiate  Church  (la  colegiata ),  completed  April  17, 
1709,  at  a (supposed)  cost  of  $3,000,000  (which  is  no  doubt 
a gross  exaggeration),  was  solemnly  dedicated  May  1,  of  the 
same  year.  The  structure  was  recognized  by  a Papal  Bull 
of  May  6,  1749.  The  ceremony  of  transferring  the  image  of 
the  Virgin  from  the  Cathedral  at  Mex.  City  was  one  of  the  most 
gorgeous  in  the  religious  history  of  Mexico.  All  the  civil  and 
ecclesiastical  authorities,  the  students,  foreign  ministers, 
monks  and  nuns  of  the  monastic  orders  formed  in  the  pro- 
cession, and  the  church-bells  rang  incessantly  for  days. 


398  Route  42. 


GUADALUPE 


The  first  chapel  erected  by  the  order  of  Bishop  Zumarraga  was  soon 
found  to  be  too  small,  and  it  was  enlarged  about  the  middle  of  the  16th 
cent.  Pilgrimages  became  so  numerous  that  a larger  structure  (com- 
pleted in  1622  at  a cost  of  $52,000)  was  erected  on  the  site  of  the  present 
colegiata.  The  great  inundation  of  1629  almost  ruined  this  ch.,  and  the 
image  was  removed  for  safe-keeping  to  the  Cathedral.  Albeit  the  waters 
did  not  subside  for  three  years,  their  ultimate  retirement  was  attributed 
to  the  intervention  of  the  Virgin,  and  in  consequence  her  cult  grew  pro- 
digiously. So  many  pilgrims  came  to  the  capital  to  do  her  homage  that 
the  Cathedral  would  not  hold  them  all. 

The  ch.  is  184  ft.  long  by  122  wide,  and  is  surmounted  by 
four  towers  and  a dome,  the  lantern  of  the  latter  rising  125  ft. 
above  the  floor.  The  towers  are  110  ft.  high,  and  are  not  dis- 
tinguished for  grace  or  beauty.  Huge  Corinthian  columns 
support  the  superstructure  of  the  fagade,  which  is  adorned 
with  niched  saints  and  with  marble  bas-reliefs  depicting  epi- 
sodes of  the  miraculous  apparition.  There  are  five  entrances, 
three  at  the  S.,  one  at  the  W.  opposite  the  Jar  din  Juarez , and 
one  (now  closed  but  visible  from  the  Tepeyac  hill-top)  which 
formerly  opened  into  the  convent.  Over  the  wide  central  en- 
trance is  the  Latin  inscription,  Sacrosancta  Romana  Lateranen- 
sis  Ecclesia.  At  the  E.  end  of  the  atrium,  which  is  enclosed  by 
a high  iron  grill,  are  many  little  stalls  ( puestos ) where  trinkets 
of  all  kinds,  and  with  special  reference  to  the  Virgin,  are  of- 
fered for  sale.  Aluminium  medallions,  ribbons  giving  the 
exact  measurement  of  the  lady’s  head,  photographs,  votive  of- 
ferings blessed  by  the  padres,  and  candles  {velas)  are  to  be  found 
here.  A score  or  more  of  ambulating  kitchens  usually  stretch 
along  in  front  of  the  old  convent  at  the  east. 

The  Interior  is  impressive  and  attractive.  The  color  scheme 
of  dark  green  and  gold  appeals  to  the  quiet-minded.  Double 
rows  of  immense  clustered  Corinthian  piers  delimn  the  aisles 
and  nave  and  support  the  high,  vaulted  roof  decorated  in 
blue  with  gold  stars.  That  portion  of  the  ch.  immediately 
about  the  entrance  and  the  organ  loft  is  decorated  al  estilo 
Bizantino , while  the  sides  (which  are  devoid  of  chapels)  were 
newly  decorated  in  1SS7.  We  enter  the  basilica  through  the 
main  entrance  at  the  W.  — In  the  foreground  of  the  W.  aisle 
is  a huge  mural  painting  (the  work  of  Salome  Pina)  represent- 
ing Fray  Francisco  Lopez  in  the  act  of  showing  a copy  of  the 
painting  of  the  Mexican  Virgin  to  Pope  Benedict  XIV.  The 
exclamation  of  His  Holiness,  “ Non  fecit  taliter  omni  natione” 
— this  was  granted  to  no  other  people,  — is  known  to  every 
Mexican  child  that  knows  of  the  Virgin.  The  painting  was 
presented  by  the  Diocese  of  the  state  of  Queretaro.  The 
bronze  inscription  below  refers  to  this  presentation.  The  many 
votive  offerings  of  silver,  in  the  long  gilt  frames  which  flank 
the  W.  entrance,  were  put  here  by  devotees  of  the  shrine. 
The  inscription  on  the  small  marble  tablet  below  the  first 
frame  refers  to  them,  and  requests  the  Virgin  to  accept  them 


GUADALUPE 


42.  Route . 399 


in  gratitude  for  her  many  favors.  The  huge  canvas  above  the 
entrance,  with  four  paintings  in  the  corners  and  a long  Latin 
inscription  in  the  centre,  depicts  episodes  in  the  apparition, 
and  describes  the  miraculousness  of  the  Virgin.  There  is  a com- 
panion piece  to  this  over  the  E.  exit.  The  next  painting 
(by  Francisco  Parra ) was  presented  by  the  Bishop  of  San  Luis 
Potosi,  and  represents  the  Jura  del  Patronato,  or  Oath  of  Pa- 
tronage. The  next,  and  smaller  picture  (the  work  of  Jose 
Maria  Ibarraran) , represents  the  Canonical  Inquiry,  or  lvfor- 
maciones  de  1666.  Each  of  the  four  larger  paintings  cost  four 
thousand  pesos;  the  coloring  is  so  much  alike  that  they  might 
easily  be  taken  for  the  work  of  a single  painter.  Let  into  the 
floor  near  the  entrance  we  have  just  passed  is  a bronze  tablet 
above  the  grave  of  Antonio  Maria  de  Bucareli  y Ursua , one 
of  the  best  (46th)  of  the  Spanish  Viceroys  ; he  died  April 
9,  1779. 

Ascending  the  stairs  at  the  N.  end  of  the  W.  aisle,  we  come 
to  a gloomy  chapel  dedicated  to  the  Holy  Founders  of  Re- 
ligious Orders  in  Mexico,  and  to  San  Joaquin.  The  wheel 
window  of  colored  glass  represents  Santa  Teresa.  Turning 
to  the  r.  we  enter  the  apse  with  three  altars,  dedicated  to 
Santa  Rosa,  San  Pedro,  and  San  Jose.  The  stained-glass  win- 
dows (of  European  origin)  are  modern,  and  were  presented  to 
the  ch.  by  prominent  Mexicans,  whose  names  appear  on 
them.  Lined  along  the  tras-coro  are  nine  canonical  chairs 
with  carvings  above  them  (in  high  relief)  of  martyred  saints, 
and  carved  wood  figures  (in  low  relief)  of  santas.  The  paint- 
ings above  the  altars  are  mediocre.  The  glass  squares  in  the 
floor  admit  light  to  the  crypt,  wherein  are  buried  many  church 
dignitaries.  We  now  enter  the  chapel  dedicated  to  Santa  Ana. 
Above  is  a wheel  window  with  a colored  glass  medallion  of 
Santa  Mathilde.  The  door  at  the  E.  side  opens  into  a room 
fairly  filled  with  cheap  paintings  of  persons  “ cured”  of  mala- 
dies by  the  miraculous  intervention  of  the  Virgin.  The  altar 
in  this  bay  is  dedicated  to  the  Holy  Mexican  Founders  of  Re- 
ligious Orders.  The  auxiliary  organ  loft  is  reached  through 
one  (the  east)  of  the  three  doors  below  the  5 small  polychrome 
figures  of  saints,  and  by  means  of  a narrow  winding  stair  (con- 
sult the  sacristan).  The  floor  hereabout  is  paved  with  black 
and  white  marble  squares;  that  in  the  older  portion  of  the  ch. 
is  of  mesquite,  which  is  as  durable  for  ch.  floors  as  teak  is  for 
ships’  decks. 

We  now  pass  through  a small  nickelled  gate,  behind  the 
high  altar,  into  the  coro,  which  contains  a beautifully  carved 
silleria , the  work  of  Salome  Pina.  There  are  31  seats  in  the 
top  row  and  16  in  the  lower.  The  structure,  which  is  of  finely 
stained  mahogany  and  of  exceedingly  rich  design,  is  called 
the  coro  de  los  canonigos.  Portraits  of  certain  of  the  Popes, 
allegories  of  the  Rosary,  and  paintings  of  the  seraphim  add 


400  Route  42. 


GUADALUPE 


to  the  richness  of  the  work.  The  old  gilt  lectern,  and  the  de- 
corations of  the  interior  of  the  dome  are  worth  looking  at. 
The  rather  well  executed  painting  of  Christ  and  St.  John, 
at  the  rear  of  the  high  altar,  surrounded  by  carved  brass  work, 
is  unsigned.  We  descend  the  stairs  at  the  E.  of  the  high  altar, 
and  pause  to  admire  the  handsome  carved  wood  and  silver 
gateway  of  the  Sagrario.  In  this  room  there  is  also  some 
well-carved  sUleria. 

We  now  come  to  the  huge  mural  painting  called  the  Primer 
Milagro  de  la  Santa  Virgen  (first  miracle  of  the  Holy  Virgin) 
referred  to  at  p.  397.  The  picture  was  presented  to  the  ch.  by 
the  diocese  of  Durango,  and  was  painted  by  G.  Carrasco 
in  1895.  Following  this  is  the  E.  exit,  flanked  by  framed 
votive  offerings,  a companion  piece  to  those  on  the  W.  The 
next  painting  (by  Felipe  S.  Gutierrez),  presented  by  the  dio- 
cese of  Zacatecas,  depicts  the  conversion  of  the  Indians  to 
the  Catholic  faith,  after  the  apparition  of  the  Virgin. 

Toribio  Motolinia,  who  kept  a record  of  the  baptisms  from  1524  to 
1539,  says  that  in  the  City  of  Mexico  and  the  surrounding  villages  more 
than  a million  children  and  adults  were  baptized,  an  equal  number  in  the 
district  of  Tezcuco,  and  in  Michoacan  and  other  provinces  over  three 
millions  more.  In  the  single  year  of  1537  above  five  hundred  thousand 
received  the  faith.  Consult  Bancroft’s  History  of  Mexico , vol.  ii.  p.  408. 

The  High  Altar,  which  occupies  the  N.  end  of  the  nave 
and  has  for  its  central  figure  the  celebrated  tilma  with  the 
image  of  the  Virgin,  is  the  most  interesting  object  in  the  ch. 
Designed  in  1802  by  the  famous  Tolsa,  it  was  not  completed, 
because  of  revolutionary  troubles,  until  1836.  It  is  a striking 
structure  of  marble  and  bronze,  and  is  said  to  have  cost,  with 
the  baldachino,  nearly  381,000  pesos.  Four  huge  columns  of 
Scotch  granite,  each  21  ft.  high  and  weighing  25,000  lbs., 
with  bases  and  capitals  of  bronze  (made  in  Italy  from  Mexican 
designs),  support  the  massive,  bronze-adorned  cupola,  which 
in  turn  is  surmounted  by  bronze  angels  and  a cross,  the  latter 
almost  smothered  in  electric  bulbs.  The  beautiful  white 
portal  is  Carrara  marble,  and  cost  891,000.  The  chancel  and 
the  sides  of  the  presbiterio  are  enclosed  by  a massive  silver 
railing  rising  from  a white  marble  base,  the  whole  a gift  of 
the  Viceroy  Bucareli.  This  (hollow)  railing  is  said  to  weigh 
24  tons  — which  is  to  be  doubted.  Many  of  the  splendid  silver 
ornaments  which  once  adorned  this  ch.  went  to  swell  Santa 
Annas  war-chest  in  1847;  others  were  sequestrated  by  the 
Reform  Laws:  the  whole  amounted,  it  is  said,  to  some  two 
millions  of  pesos  in  value.  Facing  the  presbiterio,  just  within 
the  comulgalorio , and  near  the  entrance  to  the  crypt,  is  a 
kneeling  figure,  of  marble  (presented  to  the  ch.  by  the  Escu - 
dero  y Echanove  family),  of  the  Archbishop  Labastida  y Ddvalo , 
the  venerable  prelate  who  conceived  the  idea  of  crowning 
the  Virgin.  The  figure  (the  work  of  Nicoli)  is  of  heroic  size,  and 


GUADALUPE 


42.  Route.  401 


the  attitude  is  striking.  Just  beneath  the  picture,  which  is 
surmounted  by  angels  in  relief  and  flanked  (on  the  r.)  by  a 
kneeling  marble  statue  of  Juan  Diego  and  (on  the  1.)  by  one 
of  Bishop  Zumarraga,  is  a splendid  gilt  baldachino  reserved 
for  the  Virgin’s  crown. 

The  Crown  of  the  Virgin , a gorgeous  affair,  is  kept  in  a steel  safe  in  the 
sacristy,  and  is  generally  exposed  to  the  public  view  on  Oct.  12  (corona- 
tion day)  and  Dec.  12,  — the  anniversary  of  the  Virgin’s  appearance  to 
Diego.  It  can  usually  be  seen  through  the  medium  of  a small  fee  adroitly 
administered  to  the  sacristan.  The  Papal  sanction  to  the  coronation  of 
the  image  of  the  Virgin  was  obtained  Feb.  8,  1887,  and  eight  years  later 
(Oct.  12,  1895),  the  ceremony  took  place  with  great  solemnity  and  in  the 
presence  of  upward  of  one  hundred  thousand  persons.  The  crown  is  per- 
haps the  finest  piece  of  jeweller’s  work  in  the  Republic.  It  is  of  Parisian 
origin  (the  work  of  Edward  Morgan),  cost  $30,000,  and  contains  jewels 
said  to  be  worth  upward  of  eight  hundred  thousand  pesos.  The  gems  in 
its  construction  and  the  money  for  its  workmanship  were  contributed  by 
Mexican  ladies.  The  crown  weighs  30  lbs.,  is  26  centimeters  high,  94  wide 
at  the  base,  and  1 meter  30  centimeters  at  the  widest  part  of  the  dome. 
This  ponderous  structure  of  silver,  gold  and  enamel  is  a maze  of  angels 
in  relief,  stars,  ecclesiastical  symbols,  synodal  arms,  state  shields,  the 
names  of  bishops  and  whatnot.  The  visitor  who  “tips”  the  sacristan 
should  insist  on  seeing  the  original  crown,  not  the  copy  made  for  minor 
occasions  and  shown  to  the  unwary  as  the  real  article. 

The  Picture  of  the  Virgin  occupies  the  centre  of  the  altar, 
in  a gold  frame,  and  is  covered  with  a plate  glass  thick  enough 
to  prevent  one  determining  by  what  medium  it  was  trans- 
ferred to  the  cloth.  The  picture  itself  is  6 ft.  long  by  2 ft. 
wide,  stamped  upon  a coarse  cloth  (the  tilma  of  Juan  Diego) 
woven  of  iczotl , or  palma-silvestre.  The  image  covers  nearly 
the  entire  surface.  It  is  conventional  in  type,  well  executed, 
and,  considering  its  great  age,  remarkable  for  the  brilliancy 
of  its  coloring.  The  general  appearance  of  the  painting  is 
pleasing.  The  face  is  less  sweet  than  those  usually  seen  in 
Murillo’s  madonnas,  or  Ribera’s  concepciones , and  (perhaps 
because  of  the  downcast  eyes)  it  lacks  the  divine  qualities  of 
soul  which  shine  forth  from  the  productions  of  those  masters. 
“The  figure  appears  to  stand  on  a half  moon  with  the  points 
upward.  Beneath  is  the  upper  half  of  a figurine  of  an  angel ; 
the  extremities  being  lost  in  the  clouds.  The  wings  and  arms 
are  outspread;  the  right  hand  clasps  the  end  of  the  Virgin’s 
cloak;  the  left,  that  portion  of  the  tunic  which  falls  in  folds 
across  the  crescent.  A deep  shadow  lighted  by  129  rays  of 
golden  light  forms  the  background  of  the  main  figure:  62 
of  these  rays  reach  out  to  the  right ; 67  to  the  left.  Light  clouds 
hover  about  the  remoter  background  and  form  an  airy  niche 
in  which  the  outer  shadow  and  the  figure  stand.  The  Virgin’s 
hair  is  black  and  is  parted  in  the  middle  of  a smooth  and  well- 
proportioned  forehead.  The  brows  are  thin  and  symmetrical; 
the  face  placid  and  sweet;  the  nose  aquiline;  the  downcast 
eyes  are  tranquil  and  half-hidden  by  the  full  lids.  The  mouth 
is  small  and  somewhat  pinched ; the  chin  tapers  to  a point,  and 


402  Route  42. 


GUADALUPE 


the  color  of  the  face  is  that  of  rich  cream.  The  features  and 
complexion  are  supposed  to  be  similar  to  those  of  a noble 
Indian  girl  of  the  period  during  which  Juan  Diego  lived. 
The  small,  well-shaped  hands  are  clasped  before  her  breast. 
Around  the  waist  is  a narrow,  violet  belt,  the  knotted  ends  of 
which  fall  beneath  the  right  hand.  The  tunic,  which  drops 
away  from  the  throat  to  the  feet,  is  rose,  with  deeper  tints 
in  the  shadows,— and  is  flecked  with  symmetrical  designs 
in  gold.  A small,  oval  gold  brooch,  containing  a small  dark 
circle  in  which  a cross  is  depicted,  pends  from  the  throat-band. 
The  cuffs  of  the  tunic  are  turned  backL  revealing  an  interior 
garment  which  clasps  the  wrists.  The  Nile-green  cloak,  which 
falls  from  the  crown  of  the  head  to  the  feet,  is  caught  over  the 
left  arm  and  drops  away  in  voluminous  folds  on  that  side. 
A wide  selvage  of  a gold  color  borders  the  mantle,  on  which 
are  embroidered  46  gold  stars.  From  beneath  the  tunic  one 
foot  shows,  clad  in  a light  gray  slipper.” 

The  picture  is  perhaps  of  Spanish  origin.  The  work  is  unlike  that  of 
Rodrigo  de  Cifuentes,  the  first  Spanish  portrait  painter  who  came  to  Mexico 
(in  1523),  and  it  is  at  variance  with  the  style  of  Andres  de  Concha , who 
also  lived  about  that  time,  and  whose  specialty  was  altar  pieces.  Baltazar 
de  Echave , the  Elder , one  of  the  most  celebrated  painters  of  his  time,  and 
whose  versatility  could  have  lent  itself  easily  to  the  production  of  such 
a work,  did  not  flourish  until  1600,  seven  decades  after  the  alleged 
miraculous  appearance  of  the  Virgin.  Many  celebrated  paintings  were 
imported  into  New  Spain  soon  after  the  Conquest,  and  it  is  quite  unlikely 
that  history  would  have  failed  to  record  a painter  with  an  ability  suffi- 
ciently marked  to  have  produced  a similar  work.  Few  Mexicans  believe 
the  picture  to  have  been  painted  by  human  hands.  The  celebrated  painter 
Miguel  Cabrera  published  a brochure  (in  1756)  devoted  to  showing  that 
the  picture  was  painted  neither  in  water-colors  nor  in  oil,  nor  in  any 
other  manner  artificial  or  human.  The  popular  verdict  is  that  it  bears 
a closer  resemblance  to  oil  than  to  water-color  or  distemper.  Its  lack  of 
resemblance  to  an  ordinary  painting  is  urged  in  behalf  of  its  divine  origin. 
It  is  said  that  on  two  occasions  the  glass  was  removed  and  Mexican  paint- 
ers of  repute  sought  to  determine  the  medium,  which  still  remains  a secret 
— to  the  public.  The  ch.  records  refer  to  a copy  of  the  picture,  painted 
by  an  Italian  and  presented  to  the  ch.  of  San  Nicolas  at  Rome;  “the 
Virgin  was  repeatedly  seen  to  move  her  eyes  and  otherwise  evince  her 
intelligent  interest  in  mundane  affairs.” 

The  fact  that  the  apparition  occurred  during  the  incumbency  of  Bishop 
Zumarraga.  the  bigot  who  committed  the  unpardonable  offence  of  burn- 
ing the  priceless  manuscripts  of  the  Tezcuco  library,  the  hieroglyphic 
history  of  nations  unknown,  reaching  back  a thousand  years  or  more,  — 
records  perhaps  of  the  earliest  Americans,  — is  significant.  Zumarraga  died 
June  3,  154S,  in  his  80th  year.  His  death  was  said  to  have  been  mirac- 
ulously made  known  all  over  New  Spain  on  the  day  of  its  occurrence. 

Bancroft  points  out  that  the  tilma,  or  ayate , said  to  have  belonged  to 
Juan  Diego,  was  longer  and  narrower  than  the  mantles  usually  worn. 

A careful  scrutiny  of  the  ch.  and  its  contents  is  difficult  on 
Sundays  and  feast-days,  when  the  basilica  is  usually  crowded. 
At  those  times  it  presents  a very  animated  and  democratic 
appearance.  Well-dressed  Mexicans,  foreigners,  ragged  In- 
dians, crying  babies,  snooping  dogs,  blankets  with  Indian 
repasts  spread  upon  them,  ecclesiastical  processions  led  by 
small  boys  swinging  incense  burners,  and  others  carrying 


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QHAPEL  OP  the  WELL 

(CAPILLA  DEL  POCITO)  " 

GUADALUPE 

1:1S6 

20  25  Eng.Ft.  0 1 2 3 

Vide  flpaeUlj  for  Terry's  Mexico  Coated  JlejJpSSS 


Altar 


The  Well 
El  Poclto 


En  trade 
Entrance 


Altar 


GUADALUPE 


1^2.  Route.  403 


banners  and  canopies,  are  prominent  features.  Less  visible, 
but  just  as  prominent,  in  a way,  are  the  agile  specimens  of 
the  genus  Pulex  which  the  visitor  to  this  sanctuary  usually 
carries  away  with  him.  Beggars  do  not  hesitate  to  sidle  up 
to  the  stranger  and  solicit  alms  “ por  el  amor  de  la  Santisima 
Virgen  ,”  and  to  pester  one  with  importunities.  The  noise  of 
the  crying  babies  and  the  pealing  organ,  the  smoke  from  the 
incense  and  from  scores  of  burning  candles  do  not  add  to 
one’s  comfort.  Early  morning  is  the  best  time  to  visit  the  ch., 
as  it  is  then  apt  to  be  but  partly  filled.  Visitors  are  permitted 
to  inspect  every  part  of  the  ch.  except  the  high  altar  and  the 
coro  de  los  canonigos  during  services.  As  a rule  tourists  have 
to  be  content  with  a distant  view  of  the  famous  image.  A 
good  field-glass  aids  materially  in  a minute  inspection  of  it. 
The  visitor  who  ascends  the  steps  of  the  presbzterio  during 
service  will  be  ordered  off. 

Flanking  the  Colegiata  on  the  east  are  the  Churchy  and  ex- 
convent of  Santa  Coleta , founded  by  the  Capuchin  nuns,  and 
known  as  Capuchinas  de  Nuestra  Sehora  de  Guadalupe.  It 
was  not  until  1779  that  the  repeated  efforts  to  found  a con- 
vent near  the  church  met  with  success.  Maria  Ana  de  San 
Juan  Nepomuceno  finally  obtained  the  royal  permission 
(1780),  the  support  of  the  Council  and  the  ecclesiastical  Chap- 
ter; and  construction  was  begun  in  1782.  Alms  were  solicited, 
and  in  1787  the  edifice  was  completed,  at  a cost  of  $212,328. 
It  is  much  venerated  because  it  housed  the  picture  of  the 
Virgin  during  the  renovation  of  the  Colegiata.  With  the 
sequestration  of  church  property  it  passed  into  government 
hands  in  1863.  It  was  long  used  as  a barrack,  and  now  serves 
as  an  asylum  for  the  poor.  The  darksome  cells  of  the  Capuchin 
nuns  and  the  gloomy  patio  are  still  intact. 

The  Chapel  of  the  Well  ( Capilla  del  PocitOy  comp,  the 
accompanying  plan),  two  short  squares  N.-E.  of  the  Colegiata 
(we  cross  the  little  plaza  and  turn  to  the  1.)  is,  next  to  the  ch. 
itself,  the  most  celebrated  spot  in  Mexico.  One  of  the  two 
elliptical  sections  of  the  structure  covers  the  well  like  a huge 
dome,  the  other  serves  as  a chapel,  and  is  an  object  of  venera- 
tion to  all  the  Indians  who  come  to  the  shrine.  The  edifice 
has  three  tile-covered  domes,  is  without  towers,  and  dates  from 
1777-91.  The  tiles  are  blue  and  white,  of  Puebla  make,  with 
rib-lines  in  chrome  yellow,  and  the  lantern  is  a landmark  in 
the  neighborhood.  The  plain  wall  surfaces  are  a dark  maroon. 
Notable  features  are  the  handsome,  star-shaped  windows. 
Many  of  the  aristocrats  of  the  Mexican  capital  aided  the  archi- 
tect ( Francisco  Guerrero  y Torres ) to  build  this  chapel.  Fash- 
ionable ladies  helped  the  men  carry  construction  materials 
and  did  the  work  of  common  masons.  The  poorer  workmen 
gave  their  Sundays  and  holidays  to  the  work  free.  The  cost 
of  construction  was  thus  reduced  to  $50,000,  a part  of  which 


404  Route  42. 


GUADALUPE 


was  given  by  the  archbishop  Alonzo  Nunez  de  Haro  y Peralta ; 
the  remainder  was  collected  in  the  form  of  alms. 

We  enter  through  the  W.  door  (open  all  day,  free),  step 
down  from  the  street,  and  find  ourselves  on  the  edge  of  a 
bubbling  spring  impregnated  with  carbonic  acid  gas.  The 
waters,  which,  according  to  tradition,  burst  forth  from  beneath 
the  Virgin’s  feet  when  she  commanded  Juan  Diego  to  gather 
flowers  on  the  Tepeyac  Hill,  are  brackish,  with  a temperature 
of  about  70°  Fahr.  They  contain  traces  of  sulphate  and  car- 
bonate of  lime,  soda,  chloride  of  potassium,  magnesia,  silicate 
of  soda  and  potash, and  various  organic  substances:  the  taste 
is  disagreeable.  The  credulous  attribute  miraculous  healing 
powers  to  them,  and  hundreds  of  bottles  of  the  water  are 
carried  away  each  day  by  devotees.  Pilgrims  carry  the  liquid 
to  distant  parts  of  the  Republic  and  sell  it  to  their  neighbors. 
It  is  to  the  Mexicans  what  the  Jordan  waters  are  to  the 
Christian  world.  Tradition  affirms  that  whosoever  drinks  of 
the  waters  of  Guadalupe  must  perforce  return  to  Mexico.  An 
iron  railing  encloses  the  well,  which  apparently  has  no  outlet, 
and  the  waters  bubble  up  to  within  three  or  four  feet  of  the 
pavement.  At  a counter  in  this  room  are  sold  crosses  and 
medals  which  are  said  to  have  touched  the  true  image  of  the 
Virgin,  ribbons  marked  with  the  measure  of  her  head  and 
feet,  bottles  for  the  water  (no  charge  for  the  latter),  amulets  and 
many  tawdry  gimcracks.  Despite  the  alleged  sanctity  of  the 
place,  commercial  greed  overrides  moral  ethics,  and  many 
times  the  real  value  of  the  articles  is  demanded  of  the  unsus- 
pecting. 

Passing  round  the  well  we  enter  the  Corinthian  chapel  be- 
yond. The  decorations  are  tawdry  and  glaring,  quite  Indian 
in  motif  and  taste.  The  centrepiece  of  the  high  altar  is  a 
replica  of  the  image  of  the  Virgin,  and  the  four  paintings 
(mediocre)  in  the  small  bays  represent  episodes  in  her  appari- 
tion. The  wood  tribunal  is  quaint,  and  the  carved  figure  sup- 
porting it  purports  to  be  of  Juan  Diego.  In  the  sacristy  is  a 
pseudo-authentic  picture  of  this  worthy.  The  chapel  under- 
went what  was  termed  a renovation  in  1880. 

Directly  across  the  street  from  the  main  entrance  to  the 
Chapel  of  the  Well  are  the  stone  stairs  leading  to  the  summit 
of  the  Tepeyac  Hill.  Halfway  to  the  top  stands  a stone 
monument  in  the  semblance  of  a square-rigged  ship’s  mast 
and  sails.  Tradition  relates  that  certain  mariners,  being  in 
dire  peril  at  sea  (date  unknown),  vowed  that  did  the  blessed 
Virgin  of  Guadalupe  bring  them  safely  to  the  land,  they  would 
drag  their  ship’s  mast  to  her  shrine  and  set  it  up  there  as  a 
memorial  of  her  protecting  power.  In  due  course  their  tem- 
pest-tossed barque  sailed  into  Vera  Cruz,  and  the  seamen 
fulfilled  their  vow  by  carrying  the  rigging  on  their  shoulders 
to  the  capital,  thence  to  Tepeyac , where  they  set  it  up  and 


GUADALUPE  42.  Route.  405 

built  around  it,  for  protection  from  the  weather,  the  covering 
of  stone.  Near  the  crest,  at  the  right  is 

La  Capilla  del  Cerrito  (chapel  of  the  little  hill),  called 
also  the  Capilla  de  Tepeyac,  on  the  spot  where  Juan  Diego 
gathered  the  flowers  which  sprang  up  there  from  the  stony 
surface  that  the  incredulous  Bishop  might  be  convinced.  For 
many  years  the  site  was  marked  only  by  a rude  wooden  cross 
held  in  position  by  a pile  of  stones.  In  1660  Cristobal  de  Aguirre 
erected  a small  chapel,  and  endowed  it  with  a fund  of  $1,000 
to  provide  for  an  annual  service  in  commemoration  of  the 
apparition  of  the  Virgin.  The  present  chapel  (erected  by  the 
presbyter  Juan  Montufar,  who  also  built  the  stone  stair 
leading  to  it)  dates  from  the  beginning  of  the  18th  cent. 
Its  chief  features  are  three  quaintly  carved  wood  tribunals, 
a number  of  pictures  of  the  Virgin,  and  many  small  paintings 
of  persons  "cured”  by  her  intervention.  The  small  nave  is 
usually  crowded  with  odoriferous  Indians,  and  as  the  chapel 
is  poorly  ventilated  the  air  is  sometimes  fetid.  A huge  wood 
cross  stands  before  the  door  and  upholds  a number  of  the  sym- 
bols of  calvary.  Note  the  three  huge  iron  railroad-spikes 
nailed  to  the  centrepiece.  The  view  from  the  atrium,  which 
is  paved  with  gravestones,  is  very  fine. 

The  Panteon  de  Tepeyac  crowns  the  hill,  and  is  reached 
by  a flight  of  stone  steps  to  the  W.  of  the  chapel.  The  ter- 
races below  form  the  Jardin  de  Tepeyac.  The  view  from 
the  portal  and  from  the  side  portico  is  very  attractive.  The 
eye  sweeps  over  many  square  miles  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico, 
to  the  glistening  spires  of  the  city,  the  mirror-like  surface 
of  the  lakes,  and  to  the  mountans  which  hem  in  the  Valley  on 
the  W.,  S.  and  S.-E.  The  town  of  Guadalupe,  with  its 
squat  houses  and  the  sombre  church,  stretches  away  from  the 
base  of  the  hill.  The  cemetery  should  be  visited  if  only  for  the 
sake  of  the  view. 

Perhaps  the  most  imposing  monument  stands  just  within 
the  entrance,  at  the  left.  The  inscription  on  the  base  advises 
that  the  city  council  erected  the  shaft  (in  1908)  to  the  engineer 
Manuel  Maria  Contreras  in  memory  of  the  services  rendered 
by  him.  Some  of  the  tombs  are  rented  for  a few  years,  at  the 
expiration  of  which  the  bodies  are  exhumed  and  removed  else- 
where or  thrown  into  the  common  ossuary.  Others  are  rented 
for  all  time  — en  perpetuidad.  By  proceeding  to  the  upper 
terrace  we  come  to  the  entrance  of  the  middle  path,  on  the  1. 
of  which  is  the  tomb  of  the  dictator  Antonio  Lopez  de  Santa 
Annaf  who  lies  here  in  a grave  with  his  wife. 

Tlalpan  (from  an  Aztec  vocable  tlalli  — earth,  and  pan 
• — upon),  11  M.  south  of  the  Plaza  Mayor  ( Tlalpan  tranvia 
from  the  S.  side  of  the  plaza,  at  frequent  intervals,  fare  30c., 
time  40-50  min.),  was  formerly  called  San  Agustin  de  las 


‘106  Route  42. 


TLALPAN 


Cuevas,  from  the  many  volcanic  caverns  in  the  immediate 
neighborhood.  The  town  is  the  head  of  the  municipalidad 
of  the  same  name  (pop.  6,000),  and  is  the  farthest,  healthiest 
and  one  of  the  most  picturesque  of  the  city’s  suburban  places. 
It  lies  on  the  slope  of  Mt.  Ajusco,  amid  orchards,  caves  and 
springs.  Many  temperate-zone  fruits  thrive  hereabout,  and 
some  of  the  city  markets  draw  their  supplies  hence.  Yellow 
chabacanos  (a  kind  of  apricot) , fine  apples  (manzanas) , and  one 
of  the  best  Mexican  pears,  la  pera  Gamboa  (named  for  the  gar- 
den in  Tlalpan  where  it  was  first  produced) , are  plentiful  in 
season.  Some  of  the  orchards  are  very  extensive  and  are 
enclosed  within  high  walls.  Beside  the  fruit-trees  there  are  fine 
Peruvian  trees,  ash,  silver  poplars,  and  chestnuts  {castahos) 
in  great  abundance,  and  a riot  of  sweet  flowers,  — Spanish 
jasmine,  tuberoses,  sweet-peas,  marguerites,  the  bizarre 
Bougainvillaea  (p.  442),  and  whatnot.  Immediately  after  the 
rainy  season,  when  the  flowers  show  their  richest  blooms,  the 
spot  is  unusually  attractive ; a sort  of  urban  arcadia  much 
to  the  liking  of  certain  of  the  city  people,  who  maintain 
country  residences  there. 

Tlalpan  was  settled  by  the  Spaniards  soon  after  the  Con- 
quest, and  in  1532  the  Parochial  Church  (E.  of  the  Pla$a  de  la 
Constitucion)  was  erected.  This  ch.,  known  as  Iglesia  de  San 
Agustin  de  las  Cuevas , stands  at  the  foot  of  a huge  yard  and 
overlooks  the  plaza.  The  clock  in  the  fagade  was  made  in 
Spain  for  the  Mexico  City  Cathedral,  whence  it  was  moved  to 
its  present  location  in  1830.  Above  it  is  a single  bell  in  a very 
quaint  belfry.  The  small  interior  of  the  ch.  is  made  to  look 
smaller  by  the  many  huge  pillars  which  support  the  roof.  It 
contains  a number  of  odd  little  chapels,  tucked  away  in  niches 
formed  by  the  arches.  The  large  painting  on  the  r.  of  the  en- 
trance, La  Sagrada  Familia , is  perhaps  the  work  of  Cabrera. 
At  the  r.  of  the  Altar  Mayor  is  a small  chapel  with  a Chur - 
rigueresque  altar.  A huge  painting,  The  Descent  from  the  Cross , 
which  once  adorned  this  ch.,  has  disappeared. 

The  town  was  the  favorite  residence  of  several  of  the  early 
Spanish  Viceroys,  and  in  1793  the  Viceroy  Juan  Vicente  de 
Giiemes  Pacheco  de  Padilla  greatly  improved  it  with  funds 
obtained  from  two  municipal  lotteries.  During  the  first  half 
of  the  19th  century  it  bore  an  evil  reputation  because  of  the 
great  gambling  fete  held  about  Whitsunday  of  each  year. 
Usually  at  this  period  the  many  pretty  villas  were  filled  with 
the  gayest  and  most  distinguished  residents  of  the  capital, 
and  the  fiesta  was  passed  in  dancing,  gambling,  dressing  and 
cock-fighting.  The  Viceroy  Jose  de  Iturrigaray  was  here  in  a 
cock-pit  on  June  8,  1S08,  when  he  received  the  Madrid  Gazette 
announcing  the  Revolution  in  Spain,  the  intervention  of 
Napoleon  Bonaparte  in  Spanish  affairs  and  the  abdication  of 
Charles  IV  in  favor  of  Fernando  VII.  La  Feria  de  Tlalpan 


TLALPAN 


Jfi.  Route . 407 


is  still  celebrated  in  a small  way  (a  movable  feast),  and  some 
gaming  is  indulged  in.  From  1827  to  1830  the  town  was  the 
official  capital  of  the  State  of  Mexico,  and  during  this  time  a 
mint  was  operated  here.  The  new  Palacio  Municipal  was 
completed  in  1907  at  a cost  of  $40,000. 

The  immense  Pena  Pobre  paper-mill  is  located  here  in  the 
midst  of  beautiful  gardens.  In  other  mills  cotton  and  woollen 
cloths  are  made.  Immediately  N.  of  the  town  (on  the  car-line 
to  M.  C.)  is  the  Pedregal  — seen  to  best  advantage  from  the  sta- 
tion of  Huipulco.  The  tranvia  runs  out  from  the  city  across 
vast  level  meadows  and  marshes,  past  lines  of  fine  trees  and 
the  new  automobile  road  (to  the  right)  completed  in  1908.  The 
Club  Campestre  (to  the  1.  after  leaving  the  city)  and  the  i/os- 
picio  de  Ninos  are  described  further  on.  The  stone  shafts 
visible  in  the  fields  as  we  approach  Tlalpan  are  ventilating 
shafts  for  the  underground  conduit  through  which  the  water 
from  the  Xochimilco  Springs  flows  into  the  city  pipes. 

The  Mexico  Country  Club  (El  Club  Campestre  — V.  PI.  C,  4), 
near  Churubusco,  is  reached  by  the  Tlalpan  tram-cars  (fre- 
quent service)  in  20  min.  from  the  Plaza  Mayor , fare  25  c. 
Cars  stop  in  front  of  the  gate  (left)  to  the  spacious  grounds. 
The  edifice,  a handsome  example  of  the  Spanish  mission  style, 
dates  from  1906,  and  cost  $350,000,  including  the  decorations. 
The  site  was  formerly  the  old  Hacienda  de  la  Natividad.  The 
grounds  are  admirably  laid  out,  and  the  extensive  golf-links 
in  the  rear  of  the  building  add  to  their  attractiveness.  The 
artificial  lake  is  fed  by  artesian  water,  of  which  there  are 
many  wells.  The  entrance  hall  terminates  in  a spacious  ball- 
room 120  ft.  long  by  40  ft.  wide,  one  end  of  which  sometimes  is 
used  as  the  dining-room.  Tables  are  also  set  out  under  the 
portales,  at  the  rear,  where  one  may  overlook  a beautiful 
greensward.  Music.  Good  food.  There  is  a commodious 
gymnasium,  with  baths. 

The  view  from  the  roof  is  extensive  and  pleasing.  The  myr- 
iad domes  of  the  capital  flash  and  glisten  at  the  right,  the  towers 
of  Xochimilco  are  visible  at  the  left.  Chapultepec  is  seen  at  the 
extreme  western  end  of  the  valley,  and  the  giant  mountains 
which  guard  the  city  are  revealed  in  all  their  massiveness. 

The  Club  building  is  one  of  the  finest  of  its  class  in  the 
Republic.  Card  of  admission  from  some  resident  member. 

Churubusco  (V.  PI.  C,  4),  a straggling  suburban  town  (S.-W. 
of  the  capital)  between  Coyoacan  and  the  Club  Campestre , is 
reached  by  the  Tlalpan  and  the  Churubusco  tranvias  (Churu- 
busco y San  Angel)  in  20  min.  from  the  Zocalo.  Fare  25  c.  Cars 
at  frequent  intervals.  It  was  a town  of  considerable  size 
before  the  Conquest,  and  was  called  by  the  Aztecs  Huitzilipochco 
- — place  of  the  war-god  Huitzilopochtli.  The  name  Churubusco 
is  a Hispaniolized  version  of  Huitzilopochtli.  The  Spanish 
friars  considered  the  spot  a centre  of  fetish  worship,  and  after 


408  Route  1+2. 


CHURUBUSCO 


destroying  the  primitive  temple  they  erected  a church  to 
Santa  Maria  de  los  Angeles  and  San  Antonio  Abad.  On  the 
site  of  this  ch.,  which  was  destroyed  in  1660,  the  Franciscans 
erected  the  present  structure  and  dedicated  it  to  St.  Matthew, 
May  2,  1678.  The  pretty  little  chapel  of  San  Antonio  Abad, 
nestling  against  the  foot  of  the  tower,  is  interesting.  This 
chapel  was  originally  entirely  covered  with  lustered  tiles,  but 
the  walls  have  lost  a large  part  of  their  brilliant  covering.  The 
ch.  contains  a few  old  relics  of  minor  interest.  Facing  the  ex- 
monastery is  a commemorative  monument  to  the  Mexicans 
who  fell  in  the  hotly  contested  battle  between  the  troops  of 
General  Pedro  Maria  Anaya  and  the  Americans  under  Gen- 
erals Worth,  Smith  and  Twiggs.  The  inscription  says,  “ The 
monument  was  erected  in  1856  to  the  memory  of  those  val- 
iant Mexicans  who  in  the  defence  of  their  country  sacrificed 
their  lives  here  Aug.  20,  1847.  President  Ignacio  Comonfort 
and  the  Mexican  Nation  gratefully  dedicate  this  monument 
to  their  honor  and  glory.”  The  anniversary  of  the  battle  is 
usually  celebrated  here  by  a patriotic  society  called  La  Agru - 
pacion  Patriotica — “Gratitud.”  For  a description  of  the 
battle,  one  of  the  most  important  fought  by  the  Americans 
in  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  consult  any  of  the  several  war  his- 
tories noted  in  the  bibliography  at  p.  ccxxxix. 

Coyoacan,  oldest  and  perhaps  the  most  conspicuous  suburb 
of  the  Mexican  capital  (V.  PI.  C,  4),  — antedating,  in  fact,  the 
great  city  itself  in  European  occupation,  — called  also  Coyo - 
huacan  (from  the  Aztec  coyotl  — wolf,  and  huacan  — place), 
has  for  its  symbol  a wolf  or  coyote  with  its  tongue  hang- 
ing out.  Hereabouts,  in  Toltec  and  Aztec  times,  coyotes 
abounded,  and  not  a few  are  still  known  to  exist  in  the 
adjacent  Pedregal.  Tram-cars  (from  the  S.  side  of  the  Zocalo, 
fare  15  c.)  run  at  frequent  intervals.  Time  20  min. 
During  the  siege  of  Tenochtitldn  in  1521-22,  Cortes  made 
Coyoacan  his  headquarters,  and  from  here  he  directed  the 
final  assault  that  reduced  the  Aztec  stronghold  to  Spanish 
control. 

It  was  the  intention  of  the  Great  Captain  to  make  of 
Coyoacan  the  Vice-regal  seat,  and  here  he  erected  his  palacio, 
a building  which  still  exists  (see  below).  Albeit  this  project 
failed,  the  town  was  long  the  chosen  residence  of  the  con - 
quistadores.  To  this  place  the  unfortunate  Cuauhtemoc , last 
Prince  of  the  Aztecs,  was  taken  when  captured,  and  here  he 
and  the  Cacique  of  Tacuba  were  tortured  to  force  them  to 
reveal  Montezuma’s  hidden  treasure. 

Cortes  believed  that  the  wily  Indian  Prince  had  deposited  the  imperial 
treasure  in  one  of  the  many  caves  in  the  adjacent  Pedregal , and  when 
the  Prince  refused  to  reveal  its  hiding  place  his  feet  and  hands  were 
covered  with  oil.  he  was  tied  to  a viga  (beam),  and  a fire  was  built  under 
him  (vide  Monument  to  Cuauhtemoc  on  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma).  Albeit 
the  Prince  refused  to  divulge  the  secret,  history  affirms  that  the  Span- 


COYOACAN 


42.  Route.  409 


iards  did  find  some  of  the  treasure  in  the  Pedregal ; as  well  as  the  spot 
whence  the  Aztecs  had  spirited  away  the  great  bulk  of  the  gold  and 
jewels. 

The  first  seat  of  the  Spanish  Government  in  New  Spain  was 
established  at  Coyoacan  in  Aug.,  1521,  and  the  ayuntamiento 
held  meetings  here  until  1523.  At  the  time  of  the  Conquest 
it  was  a place  of  some  6,000  inhab.  and  was  the  favorite 
suburb  of  the  Aztec  princes.  The  principal  occupation  of  the 
people  was  salt  making.  Hard  by  was  the  great  spring  of 
Acuecuezco , whence  Tenochtitlan  drew  a portion  of  its  potable 
water.  The  town,  as  well  as  the  suburb  of  Tacuba  and  the 
hill  of  Chapultepec,  stood  then  upon  the  margin  of  the  wide 
Lake  Texcoco ; many  of  the  houses  were  built  in  the  water 
upon  stakes,  and  the  canoes  entered  through  the  lower  doors. 

The  Palacio  de  Cortes  (now  a municipal  building),  at  the  N. 
side  of  the  plaza,  is  a low,  rambling  structure  erected  by  the 
Conqueror  in  1522.  It  was  made  a part  of  his  property,  and  was 
included  in  the  grant  given  him  under  the  title  of  the  Marques 
del  Valle  de  Oaxaca.  The  graven  arms  of  the  Conquistador 
are  still  discernible  above  the  main  entrance  to  the  palacio. 
On  the  right  is  the  inscription:  Casa  de  Hernan  Cortes , El 
Ayuntamiento  en  1892.  On  the  left,  on  a marble  slab  let  into 
the  wall,  is  the  inscription:  Homenaje  at  ultimo  Rey  Azteca. 
La  sociedad  Cuauhtemoc  — Homage  to  the  last  Aztec  King : 
The  Cuauhtemoc  society.  This  so-called  palace,  which  was  vis- 
ited in  1895  by  the  Eleventh  International  American  Congress, 
has  a sinister  history.  Here  Cortes  received  Sinsicha , the 
King  of  Michoacan,  when  he  came  to  the  capital  to  place  his 
realm  under  the  protection  of  the  Crown  of  Castile.  Imme- 
diately after  the  Conquest,  Cortes  gave  a banquet  here  to  cele- 
brate his  victory.  Under  the  influence  of  the  strong  Spanish 
wine  which  had  been  recently  received  from  Cadiz,  he  made 
a coarse  allusion  to  the  alleged  relations  between  his  wife, 
Doha  Catalina  Juarez  Marcaida , and  one  of  her  Indian  serv- 
itors. Doha  Catalina  defended  herself  hotly,  and  after  re- 
proaching him  with  his  amours  with  the  Indian  girls,  — par- 
ticularly Marina,  who  was  in  the  palace,  — she  withdrew  to 
her  oratorio.  Cortes  retired  soon  after,  and  a little  later  he 
aroused  the  servants  and  informed  them  that  his  wife  was 
dead,  — presumably  from  asthma,  albeit  the  imprints  of 
fingers  at  her  throat  pointed  to  strangulation.  The  next  day 
the  report  was  current  that  Cortes  had  hanged  Doha  Cata- 
lina, — an  imputation  energetically  denied  by  the  Conqueror. 
The  unfortunate  lady  was  hurried  into  a shroud  and  was 
: promptly  buried  in  the  churchyard  opposite  the  palace. 

To  the  W.  of  the  palacio  is  a small  old  house  in  which  Cortes 
is  said  to  have  lived.  Near  by  is  the  ancient  Capilla  de  la 
Concepcion , one  of  the  first  churches  erected  in  New  Spain. 

The  Plaza,  facing  the  Palacio  de  Cortes,  is  a flower-em- 


410  Route  1$. 


COYOACAN 


bowered  spot,  with  many  fine  trees,  banana  plants  and  roses. 
Many  Americans  dwell  in  Coyoacan,  now  one  of  the  most 
popular  of  the  city’s  suburbs. 

Directly  south  of  the  Plaza , facing  an  extensive  garden 
with  some  fine  old  trees  and  many  song  birds,  stand  the 
ancient  Church  of  San  Juan  Bautista  (known  also  as  the 
Parroquia)  and  the  adjacent  Dominican  monastery;  the  latter 
dating  from  1530;  the  former,  according  to  an  inscription  on 
the  wall,  from  1583.  This  church,  with  its  flat  roof  and 
timbered  ceiling,  is  a good  example  of  the  type  erected 
(early  Franciscan  style)  in  New  Spain  in  the  century  of  the 
Conquest.  The  sturdy  tower  with  its  quaint  belfry  and  clock 
is  a notably  good  example  of  its  kind.  The  side  gateway 
close  to  the  church,  and  immediately  opposite  the  central 
plaza,  “is  of  uncommon  interest  as  presenting  one  of  the  most 
important  examples  of  Aztec  influence  in  the  early  architec- 
tural ornament  of  New  Spain.  The  details  of  this  ornament 
are  strongly  Aztec  in  sentiment,  and  seem  largely  so  in  form/’ 
When  restoring  this  gateway  in  1892  the  original  stone  carv- 
ings were  preserved.  An  inscription  referring  to  its  restora- 
tion may  be  seen  on  the  inner  side  of  the  arch. 

We  enter  the  churchyard  through  this  gateway.  Above 
the  W.  entrance  to  the  ch.  is  a half-obliterated  Latin  inscrip- 
tion which  declares  the  church  to  be  the  “House  of  God  and 
the  Door  to  Heaven.”  The  inscription  below  this  one  relates 
to  the  date  of  the  dedication  of  the  ch.  and  is  barely  decipher- 
able. A number  of  carved  ornaments  in  high  relief  adorn  the 
facade.  The  doors  are  so  worm-eaten  and  dilapidated  as  to 
suggest  the  belief  that  they  date  from  the  erection  of  the  ch. 

The  interior  construction  confirms  its  great  age.  The  long 
central  nave  has  a new  wood  floor,  in  sharp  contrast  to  the 
stone  flagging  and  the  worm-eaten  ( carcomido ) benches  (some 
of  them  with  quaint  carved  inscriptions)  that  stand  beneath 
the  arches  and  separate  the  nave  from  the  aisles.  Superim- 
posed beams  form  the  ceiling;  16  square  and  severely  plain 
pillars  support  the  roof,  and  16  clerestory  windows  (including 
those  of  the  high  altar)  admit  light  to  the  interior.  In  the 
aisles,  in  each  square  formed  by  the  arches,  are  altars  or 
chapels,  some  of  them  recently  decorated  and  none  of  artistic 
value.  The  altar  mayor  fills  the  entire  end  of  the  long  nave; 
it  is  in  nowise  remarkable,  and  the  pictures  are  mediocre. 
The  sacristy  is  to  the  right  of  the  altar  mayor , and  hard  by 
is  a small  door  which  opens  on  to  a corridor  leading  to  the 
refectory,  a quaint  cloister,  and  a garden  filled  with  roses 
and  fruit  trees.  The  gilded  wTood  pulpit  is  new.  To  the  r.  of 
the  entrance  is  a large  framed  allegorical  picture,  unsigned. 

We  pass  down  the  garden  to  the  ancient  stone  cross  sur- 
mounting an  irregular  pile  of  volcanic  stones.  According  to 
tradition  this  cross  marks  the  spot  wThere  mass  wTas  sung  before 


COYOACAN 


J+2.  Route.  411 


the  ch.  was  completed.  Another  tradition  relates  that  Dona 
Catalina , Cortes 1 unfortunate  spouse,  lies  buried  here.  Cortes 
himself  wished  to  be  buried  in  this  garden,  and  he  so  stipu- 
lated in  his  last  will  and  testament  — a wish  that  was  not 
respected. 

We  leave  the  garden  by  the  W.  entrance,  through  an  old 
gateway  tottering  with  age.  By  following  the  car-track  west- 
ward, along  the  Avenida  del  Benemerito  Benito  Juarez , we 
soon  come  to  the  pretty  Plaza  de  Santa  Catalina  (on  the  r.) 
with  a quaint,  diminutive  church  with  some  cracked  bells 
aswing  in  an  old  campanario ; a number  of  unusually  tall  trees, 
a rustic  kiosk,  and  some  parterres  of  beautiful  roses.  We 
follow  the  street,  which  hence  onward  is  called  El  Calle  Real , 
past  many  low  houses  and  extensive  gardens  with  high  stone 
walls,  moss-covered  and  overhung  with  ripening  pears  and 
quinces  and  with  Bougainvillaea  and  brilliant  flowers.  Beyond 

M.)  on  the  r.  stands  the  celebrated  Casa  de  Alvarado  fac- 
ing a giant  tree  with  stone  seats  around  its  base.  A shrine 
and  a figurine  adorn  the  entrance,  an  iron  reja  extends 
along  a portion  of  the  upper  story,  and  a fine  garden  stretches 
away  in  the  rear.  The  house,  which  dates  from  the  early 
years  of  the  Conquest,  but  which  has  undergone  a number 
of  restorations,  was  built  by  Cortes’  trusted  lieutenant,  Pedro 
de  Alvarado.  Its  present  owner  is  Mrs.  Zelia  Nuttall,  a cele- 
brated archaeologist  and  philologist. 

We  continue  along  the  Calle  Real  to  a quaint  stone  bridge 
and  the  time-stained  Indian  chapel,  uninteresting,  of  San 
Antonio  de  Padua.  Stretching  away  to  the  left  is  the  Pedregal , 
now  used  as  a stone  quarry.  Beyond  this  bridge  the  road 
dips,  passes  a garden  filled  with  giant  cedars,  and  then  slopes 
upward  toward  San  Angel . As  we  approach  the  town  the 
houses  become  more  attractive,  and  we  get  glimpses  of  splendid 
gardens  and  villas  of  wealthy  residents.  We  enter  the  Avenida 
de  la  Paz  and  the  pretty  Plazuela  del  Carmen.  (Comp.  p.  413.) 

The  Pedregal  (Spanish,  stony-place),  often  called  Malpais 
(bad-lands),  is  a basaltic  lava  stream  some  M.  wide,  6 M. 
long,  and  from  20  to  50  ft.  deep,  of  great  antiquity,  immedi- 
i ately  S.  of  San  Angel  (V.  PI.  C,  5),  Tlalpan  and  Coyoacan 
It  is  supposed  to  have  poured  from  the  crater  of  Ajusco  (S.-W 
end  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico),  or  from  the  more  recently  active 
cone  of  Xitli  (N.-E.  of  Ajusco),  at  some  remote  period  beyond 
the  memory  of  man.  Some  scientists  believe  that  it  came  into 
existence  long  after  the  stupendous  cataclysm  which  formed 
the  Valley  of  Mexico  and  gave  it  a geologic  identity.  Because 
of  the  human  bones  and  pottery  (the  latter  of  a period  a trifle 
earlier  than  the  Conquest)  found  under  the  edge  of  the  lava 
flow,  it  is  believed  to  have  formed  about  a.  d.  1400,  albeit 
there  is  no  record  of  it  in  the  early  history  of  Mexico.  The 
traditions  of  the  Toltecs,  who  entered  the  Valley  at  the  close 


412  Route  42. 


THE  PEDREGAL 


of  the  7th.  cent.,  do  not  mention  the  Pedregal , and  it  is  easy 
to  suppose  that  it  antedates  their  arrival.  The  now  motion- 
less stream,  eloquent  evidence  of  the  once  tremendous  ac- 
tivity of  the  Mts.  around  the  Valley,  is  black,  irregular  and 
forbidding ; filled  with  caves  that  were  the  one-time  haunt  of 
brigands  and  marauders.  The  contrast  between  the  bleak 
lava  and  the  pretty  gardens  which  flank  it  is  as  sharp  as  that 
between  the  gardens  and  the  desert  at  Cairo.  Narrow  Indian 
trails  radiate  through  the  petrified  sea  of  scoria,  and  near  the 
middle  is  a picturesque  Indian  chapel  dedicated  to  the  Child 
Jesus.  Numerous  quarries  have  been  opened  near  the  edge 
of  the  stream,  from  which  basalt  ballast  for  the  adjacent  high- 
ways is  taken.  Many  grim  stories  of  bandidos,  of  travellers 
lost  in  the  mazes  of  this  bleak  region,  and  of  hidden  treasure- 
caves  are  current  among  the  people;  who  likewise  believe 
that  Her  nan  Cortes  located  the  golden  hoard  which  Monte- 
zuma is  supposed  to  have  hidden  here,  and  carried  it  to  Spain. 

A good  idea  of  the  Pedregal  can  be  had  by  visiting  the  recent  Excavaciones 
de  Copilco,  in  the  Huerta  del  Carmen , San  Angel,  where  the  lava  is  about  20 
ft.  thick  and  overlays  Indian  tombs  believed  to  date  from  the  Neolithic  Age 
(a  division  of  the  Stone  Age,  of  perhaps  10,000  years  ago).  — The  excava- 
tions are  about  ? M.  from  the  Plaza  de  San  Jacinto.  Pass  the  Carmen 
Church  (p.  413),  across  the  quaint  stone  bridge  spanning  the  little  brook  and 
go  through  the  iron  door  set  in  the  wall  at  the  right.  No  fees.  The  skeletons, 
bits  of  pottery,  etc.,  are  in  the  tunnel  (left).  The  lava  above  shows  that  they 
were  interred  at  some  remote  period  before  the  flow  came  down  from  Ajusco. 
That  the  remains  are  unthinkably  old  is  proved  by  the  fact  that  almost  any 
excavation  in  the  Valley  of  Mexico  produces  three  types,  the  archaic,  or 
oldest ; the  Toltec,  or  early  Mexican,  and,  superimposed,  the  Aztec,  or  rela- 
tively modern.  These  remains  are  unique  in  that  no  traces  of  architecture 
and  no  hunting  paraphernalia  have  been  found  near  them.  The  people  were 
porhans  simple  agriculturists,  and  may  be  autochthons.  For  data  relating 
t<>  them  consult  Las  Excavaciones  del  Pedregal  de  San  Angel  y la  Outturn 
Arcaira  del  Valle  de  Mexico,  by  Dr.  Manuel  Gamio,  Director  of  Anthropol- 
ogy, Mexico  City. 


San  Angel  (Holy  Angel),  8 miles  S.-W.  of  Mexico  City; 
tram-cars  from  the  Zocalo  every  20  min.,  fare  40  cts.  1st  cl.,  via 
Chapul tepee,  Tacubava  and  Mixcoac,  in  50  min.  by  regular 
trains;  30  min.  by  the  rdpido  at  certain  hrs.  during  the  day 
(also  via  Coyoacan),  a popular  suburban  town  (V.  PI.  B,  4)  in 
the  municipalidad  of  Tlalpan,  pop.  11,000,  is  celebrated  for  its 
salubrious  air,  its  handsome  country  homes  surrounded  by  vast 
huertas  (orchards),  and  for  its  many  fine  fruits.  Strawberries, 
pears,  apples,  apricots,  quinces  and  peaches  grow  luxuriantly 
and  reach  a certain  degree  of  perfection.  Albeit  the  towm  is 
300ft.  higher  than  the  capital,  its  position  on  the  slope  of  the 
mountains  which  limit  the  S.-W.  edge  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico 
gives  it  a superior  climate.  Many  Mexico  City  people  dwell 
here  because  of  the  lower  cost  of  living  and  the  healthier  con- 
ditions. 

The  tram-cars  run  out  between  a double  row  of  tall  trees. 


SAN  ANGEL 


42.  Route . 413 


through  which  we  get  fine  views  of  Popocatepetl  and  Iztac - 
cihuatl.  We  skirt  the  Park  of  Chapultepec,  and  pass  by  the 
entrance.  The  valley  between  Mixcoac  and  San  Angel  is 
covered  with  unusually  large  maguey  plants  which  produce 
some  of  the  pulque  (p.  lxxxii)  drunk  in  the  suburbs.  The  grade 
slopes  upward  as  the  line  enters  the  town.  Facing  the  Palacio 
Municipal , and  to  the  W.  of  it,  is  the  double  Plazuela  del 
Carmen,  with  parterres  of  flowers,  some  tall  palms  and  several 
fountains  filled  with  the  muddy  water  with  which  the  place  is 
supplied.  (This  should  be  well  filtered  or  boiled  before  drunk.) 
The  electric  cars  proceed  through  the  town  to  the  Plaza  de 
San  Jacinto,  circle  it,  and  return  to  their  terminus  at  the  lower 
end,  near  the  local  market,  whence  they  start  back  to  the 
Zocalo.  Certain  cars  proceed  over  a branch  line  to  the  San 
Angel  Inn,  referred  to  at  p.  416. 

The  Plaza  contains  some  fine  old  trees,  a music  kiosk  (mili- 
tary band  Sundays  and  feast-days),  and  several  playing  foun- 
tains. On  Sundays  the  Indians  of  the  adjacent  hills  assemble 
at  a market  1 square  to  the  N.-E.,  and  hold  an  open-air  tian- 
guiz  just  as  did  their  progenitors  centuries  ago.  Impromptu 
tents  or  awnings  ( toldos ) are  rigged  up,  petates  (straw  mats) 
are  spread  upon  the  sidewalk,  and  scores  of  straw-hats  (75  cts. 
to  $2  — bargaining  necessary),  crates  of  pottery,  rolls  of  cloth, 
piles  of  charcoal,  vegetables,  fruits,  and  Indian  knick-knacks 
are  exposed  for  sale.  Chattering  Indian  matrons,  expostu- 
lating dogs,  tuneful  burros,  ringing  church-bells  and  strident- 
voiced venders  impart  anything  but  a peaceful  air  to  the 
locality.  On  certain  feast-days,  notably  the  Fiesta  de  Nuestra 
Sehora  del  Carmen  (the  patroness  of  the  town),  held  in  July, 
and  that  of  Nuestro  Senor  de  Contreras,  in  August,  the  plaza 
is  gayly  decorated  with  flowers  and  rows  of  electric  lamps,  a 
popular  kermesse  is  inaugurated,  society  ladies  from  the  capi- 
tal and  from  San  Angel  preside  at  the  gaudily  trimmed  booths, 
and  the  town  is  thronged  with  visitors.  The  lower  classes 
indulge  in  gambling,  cock-fighting,  riding  on  merry-go- 
rounds,  and  imbibing  the  pulque  grown  in  the  neighborhood. 

At  the  time  of  the  Conquest,  San  Angel  was  an  Indian  sub- 
urb of  Coyoacan,  and  was  called  Chimalistac.  A Carmelite 
convent  (after  the  plan  of  Fray  San  Andres  de  San  Miguel, 
a lay  brother  of  the  Carmelite  Order)  was  begun  here  in  1615, 
and  dedicated  in  1617  to  San  Angelo  Martir,  whence  the  name 
of  the  town  which  grew  up  around  it.  The  church  was  re-dedi- 
cated in  1633  to  Santa  Ana,  in  honor  of  its  rich  patroness, 
Dona  Ana  Aguilar  y Nino.  It  is  still  the  finest  piece  of  archi 
tecture,  and  the  most  interesting  sight,  in  the  town.  We  enter 
the  spacious  ch.  yard  through  the  gate  at  the  right  of  the 
Plazuela  del  Carmen,  just  across  the  street  from  the  corner  of 
the  Palacio  Municipal.  Three  time-stained  and  battered  tile 
domes  in  the  Mudejar  style,  each  of  a different  color,  surmount 


414  Route  42. 


SAN  ANGEL 


the  church  and  impart  an  air  of  great  antiquity  to  it.  A flagged 
walk  leads  through  the  illy-kept  garden  to  the  atrium  and  to 
the  entrance  — which  imparts  the  impression  of  being  the  back 
door.  Just  within,  on  the  right  and  left  walls  of  the  single 
nave,  are  three  curious  oil  paintings  representing  San  Serapion 
Patriarca  de  Antioch , San  Cyrilo  P.  de  Alexandria , and  S. 
Dionisio  Papd  y Confesor.  In  lieu  of  a base-board,  a dado  of 
quaint  old  Puebla  blue  and  white  tiles  runs  clear  around  the 
nave. 

The  first  chapel  to  the  left,  recently  renovated  and  dedi- 
cated to  the  Virgen  del  Carmen , contains  seven  old  paintings, 
four  of  which  are  on  wood,  retouched  in  glaring  colors.  The 
one  above  the  entrance  bears  the  date  1800.  Contiguous  to 
this  chapel  is  the  finest  one  in  the  church,  handsomely  decor- 
ated and  dedicated  to  El  Sen  or  de  Contreras . It  was  erected 
in  1777  (note  the  date  set  in  the  panel)  by  Hermano  Juan  de 
Maria,  and  renovated  in  1897.  The  fine  old  gilded  Baroque 
reredos  are  worth  seeing.  The  first  mural  painting  on  the  r. 
as  we  enter  represents  Christ  in  the  Garden.  The  next  is  the 
Flagellation  of  the  Saviour.  The  huge  paintings  on  the  1. 
are  the  Crucifixion  and  the  Descent  from  the  Cross.  None  are 
signed,  and  while  they  are  attributed  to  Murillo,  they  are  more 
than  likely  the  work  of  Jose  Rodriguez  Juarez  (p.  315).  High 
above  the  entrance  is  a noteworthy  Ultima  Cena  (Last  Supper), 
unsigned,  and  of  rich  coloring.  The  four  round  paintings  in 
the  spandrels  of  the  cupola  arches  are  of  the  evangelistas  Saints 
Matthew,  Mark , Luke  and  John.  The  small  paintings  let  into 
the  reredos  d la  Churrigueresque  are  also  unsigned. 

The  central  figure  in  the  main  altar  is  a Cristo  bearing  a 
large  cross  with  silver  ornaments  on  the  arms.  A silk  patch- 
work  quilt  serves  as  an  altar  frontal  to  shield  it.  Beneath 
this  chapel  are  buried  45  American  soldiers  who  were  killed 
during  the  Mexican- American  war;  at  which  time  the  adjoin- 
ing monastery  was  used  as  a military  hospital  and  barrack. 

The  large  unsigned  painting  on  the  r.  of  the  Altar  Mayor , in 
the  main  body  of  the  church,  is  the  Patrocinio  de  Sehor  San 
Jose.  That  to  the  1.  represents  Saints  Thomas,  Cyrilo,  and 
John  the  Baptist  {Juan  Bautista).  On  the  wall  between  the 
high  altar  and  the  entrance  to  the  Capilla  del  Sehor  de  Con - 
reras  is  a fairly  good  panel  painted  in  oil  representing  San 
Simon  Stok , generalisimo  of  the  Order  of  Carmen.  The  com- 
panion piece  across  the  way  is  San  Pedro  Tomas. 

Over  the  doorway  leading  into  the  Sacristia  is  a huge  paint- 
ing of  the  Holy  Family,  the  work  of  A.  Sanchez , with  the 
date  1779.  Skied  above  the  entrance  within  is  a good  San 
Cristobal  and  Santa  Barbara.  The  unusually  low  ceiling  of 
the  sacristy  is  ornamented  with  a kind  of  cheap  stucco.  In 
the  hallway  leading  to  the  sacristy  is  a San  Juan  de  la  Cruz , 
by  Luis  Becerra.  The  most  interesting  objects  in  the  room 


SAN  ANGEL 


42.  Route.  415 


are  a series  of  paintings  (by  Cristobal  de  V illalpando , p.  cxlix) 
above  an  old  inlaid  vestuario  or  estante.  The  picture  on  the  r. 
is  the  Oration  in  the  Garden  ; the  next  is  San  Juan  de  la  Cruz 
doing  penance;  the  companion  piece  is  the  Flagellation  of 
Christ , and,  on  the  extreme  left,  the  Santo  Ecce  Homo.  All  are 
good  examples  of  V illalpando' s work,  but  inferior  to  his  splen- 
did mural  paintings  in  the  Cathedral  of  Mexico.  They  are 
signed,  and  were  painted  before  1714.  Surmounting  the  estante 
is  an  unusually  good  Cristo,  in  ivory,  on  a carved  ebony  cross. 
The  figure,  excepting  the  arms,  is  carved  from  one  piece. 

Adjoining  the  sacristy  is  an  old  refectory  now  used  as  a 
lavatory,  with  some  good  tile-work  doubtless  several  hundred 
years  old.  Beneath  this  room,  reached  through  a door  in  the 
left  wall,  is  the  crypt,  once  a magnificent  vault,  still  lined 
with  old  Spanish  azulejos,  and  containing  several  tombs ; one 
in  the  main  floor  bears  the  date  of  1628.  The  monastery  gar- 
den is  now  in  a ruinous  state.  A labyrinth  of  brick-paved  halls, 
flanked  by  dark,  unoccupied  cells,  winds  through  the  building; 
on  the  walls  are  many  dilapidated  paintings,  torn  and  discolored ; 
one  of  them  is  of  the  Archbishop  Palafox  y Mendoza. 

The  church  (renovated  in  1857)  is  much  venerated  by  the 
Indians  from  Ajusco  and  the  surrounding  mountains,  and  on 
Sundays  it  is  usually  crowded  by  a motley  throng.  A favorite 
fiesta  (common  to  all  churches  dedicated  to  Our  Lady  of  Car- 
men) is  the  bi-monthly  (2d  Sunday)  Procesion  de  la  Virgen. 
A life-size,  polychrome  figure  of  the  Virgin  and  Child  is  carried 
about  the  nave,  accompanied  by  a procession  of  candle 
bearers,  incense  burners  and  choristers.  The  feet  of  the  Virgin 
and  the  hem  of  her  robe  are  passionately  kissed  by  the  devo- 
tees. The  crowns  of  the  Virgin  and  the  Child  are  of  very  thin 
gold;  the  emeralds  are  spurious.  A much  venerated  image 
of  the  Virgin  is  preserved  in  a small  glass  case.  The  new  organ 
dates  from  1907.  The  old  huerta  (orchard),  which  once  be- 
longed to  the  convent,  has  been  converted  into  building  lots. 
The  old  “ Secreto”  or  whispering-gallery,  with  its  strange 
acoustic  properties,  and  the  huge  stone  cross  which  dates 
from  the  erection  of  the  ch.,  still  remain. 

At  the  top  of  the  Plaza  de  San  Jacinto , visible  above  the 
low  houses  which  have  encroached  on  the  old  churchyard,  is 
the  weather-beaten  Church  of  San  Jacinto , with  a few  old 
pictures  of  no  value,  and  some  gilded  altars.  The  entrance 
to  the  church  is  through  the  yard  which  flanks  the  Calle  de 
Juarez.  The  tourist  will  hardly  be  paid  for  the  time  spent  in 
examining  this  church,  which  is  now  but  a simulacrum  of  its 
former  self. 

Continuing  past  the  yard  we  follow  the  C.  de  Juarez  to  the 
small  triangular  Plaza  de  los  Licenciados.  A few  hundred  yards 
further  on,  in  the  Calle  Hidalgo , is  the  Casa  Blanca , a famous 
revolutionary  landmark;  now  a private  dwelling.  The  battered 


416  Route  42.  LA  PIEDAD  — MIXCOAC 


coat-of-arms  of  Spain  still  shows  above  the  main  entrance. 
Note  the  curious  old  rings,  set  into  the  wall,  and  used  as  sub- 
stitutes for  hitching-posts. 

About  \ M.  S.-W.  of  the  plaza  (reached  by  a tramline 
from  the  lower  plaza)  are  the  Colonia  de  Alta  Vista,  and  the 
delightful  San  Angel  Inn,  the  latter  a favorite  resort  of  motor- 
ists. tThe  Colonia  contains  a number  of  charming  bungalows 
set  among  a host  of  lovely  flowers.  From  the  roof  and  balconies 
of  the  Inn  (comp.  p.  236)  extensive  views  of  the  Valley  of 
Mexico  and  the  surrounding  mountains  can  be  had.  Behind 
the  Inn  is  a charmingly  restful  garden  with  many  splendid 
trees  and  flowers.  Meals  served  at  tables  in  the  garden  or  in 
the  quaint  dining-room.  The  Alta  Vista  Colony  (very  popular) 
is  one  of  the  several  enterprises  of  the  Mexican  International 
Trust  Co.  S.  A.  (an  American  company  with  offices  in  the 
Cattejon  de  la  Condesa,  8,  Mexico  City). 

La  Piedad  (piety),  a suburban  town  (V.  PI.  C,  4)  2\  M.  south- 
west of  the  Plaza  Mayor , reached  by  the  La  Piedad  tranvias 
in  30  min.  The  Santuario  de  la  Piedad,  with  its  ex-monas- 
tery built  in  1652  by  the  Dominican  friars  (theinquisitioners), 
contains  a picture  of  the  Virgin  and  the  dead  Christ  to  which 
is  attached  the  following  legend : 

In  1650  a monk  of  the  Santo  Domingo  Order  engaged  a Roman  artist 
to  paint  him  a picture  of  Mary  with  the  dead  Cristo.  When  the  man  was 
ready  to  sail  for  Mexico  the  outline  drawing  only  of  the  picture  was  com- 
pleted. Nevertheless,  the  monk  accepted  it.  While  voyaging  to  Mexico 
a dreadful  tempest  arose  and  threatened  to  engulf  the  ship.  The  mariners 
prayed  to  the  picture  for  protection,  promising  the  Virgin  that  if  she 
would  bring  them  safely  to  land,  they  would,  on  then*  arrival  at  Mexico 
City,  erect  a shrine  to  her  memory.  When  the  ship  came  into  port  the 
monks  collected  alms  and  erected  the  temple  of  La  Piedad.  When  the 
package  containing  the  canvas  was  opened  a very  beautiful  picture  was 
disclosed,  finished  to  the  minutest  detail.  This  alleged  miraculous 
painting  was  thereafter  much  venerated.  In  the  ch.  is  a picture  (attrib- 
uted to  Cabrera)  which  represents  the  storm  that  was  stilled  at  the 
Virgin’s  command. 

Mixcoac  (Aztec  Mixcoatl  = The  Milky  Way)  lies  1 M. 
south  of  Tacubava  (V.  PI.  C,  4)  on  the  Mixcoac  and  San  Angel 
electric  car  line.  Mixcoac  car  from  the  Zocalo  at  frequent 
intervals,  time  30  min.,  fare  40  cts.  Its  chief  point  of  interest 
is  the  Jar  din  de  Propagacion  (nursery)  which  supplies  the 
Mexico  city  parks  and  plazas  with  flowers.  We  descend  at 
the  Berlin  station.  The  gardens  (established  in  1902),  but  a 
short  walk  to  the  right,  are  open  all  day,  free.  An  expert  hor- 
ticulturist and  about  40  assistants  keep  the  place  in  order. 
The  list  of  flowers  is  limited,  comprising  dahlias,  verbenas, 
begonias,  petunias,  heliotropes,  marguerites,  geraniums  and 
whatnot.  Eucalyptus,  Ash,  Lebanon-cedars,  Indian-laurels, 
Thujas  and  several  varieties  of  palms  are  raised  for  the  city 
supply.  Shady  walks  and  avenues  are  under  construction,  and 
the  jardin  is  to  be  made  attractive.  From  the  elevated  slope 
one  commands  a splendid  view  of  the  twin  volcanoes,  of 
Ajusco,  and  the  fruit  gardens  of  San  Angel.  The  newautomo- 


TACUBAYA 


42.  Route.  417 


bile  road  from  the  City  to  San  Angel  passes  in  front  of  the 
gardens.  The  old  San  Pedro  Coif  Links  are  hard  by. 

One  half  mile  east  of  Mixcoac  is  La  Castaneda , with  a popu- 
lar tivoli,  much  frequented  in  summer.  Many  of  the  Mexico 
City  people  have  homes  ( casas  de  recreo ) in  Mixcoac. 

Tacubaya  (V.  PI.  C,  3),  one  of  the  most  attractive,  populous 
(50,000  inhab.)  and  fashionable  of  the  capital’s  suburban 
towns,  lies  along  the  slope  of  the  Sierra  de  las  Cruces , and  is 
reached  by  the  Tacubaya,  Mixcoac  and  San  Angel  electric 
cars  (fare  10  cts.,  distance  4 M.,  time  20  min.),  which  leave  the 
Zocalo  at  frequent  intervals.  The  town  is  about  1 M.  south  of 
Chapultepec,  and  the  fine  calzada  which  passes  the  castle  gate 
connects  it  with  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma.  The  Tacubaya  cars 
stop  at  the  castle  gate  going  and  returning. 

The  old  Aztec  settlement  of  Atlacuihuayan  (named  for  a 
kind  of  Aztec  sling  — atlatli),  founded  about  1270,  occupied 
the  site  of  the  present  town.  After  the  Conquest  the  region 
became  the  property  of  Cortes  and  was  included  in  his  vast 
estates.  In  1529  the  Dominicans  established  a monastery  at 
the  base  of  the  hill,  now  surmounted  by  the  Observatorio  As - 
tronomico  Nacional , and  in  due  course  the  ecclesiastical  pro- 
perty became  the  centre  of  a thriving  Spanish  settlement. 
In  1607  Felipe  III  commanded  that  Mex.  City  be  moved  to 
Tacubaya,  but  the  order  was  rescinded  when  the  city  council 
showed  him  that  the  Crown  would  have  to  disburse  $20,000,- 
000  to  indemnify  property  owners  in  the  old  Aztec  capital. 
The  project  was  revived  during  the  great  inundation  of  Mex. 
City  in  1629,  but  it  met  with  strong  opposition  and  was  shelved. 

El  Arzobispado  (residence  of  the  Archbishop)  was  trans- 
ferred to  Tacubaya  in  1737.  Two  years  later  the  building  now 
occupied  by  the  National  Astronomical  Observatory  was 
erected  by  order  of  the  Viceroy  (also  Archbishop)  Juan  An- 
tonio de  Vizarron  y Eguiarreta  and  dedicated  as  the  Arzobis- 
pado. It  was  the  home  of  the  National  Military  College  (now 
at  Chapultepec)  from  1863  to  1883.  The  building  (finely 
equipped  with  modern  appliances  and  a library  of  7,000  vol- 
umes) is  one  of  the  most  conspicuous  features  in  the  landscape, 
and  commands  an  extensive  view  — finer,  even,  than  that 
from  Chapultepec,  since  the  castle  itself  lies  within  the  range 
of  vision.  The  main  salon  is  decorated  with  portraits  of  great 
astronomers  and  with  handsome  frescoes.  The  earthquake 
registering  instruments  are  the  best  of  their  kind. 

Antonio  Lopez  de  Santa  Anna 11  The  Dictator,”  and  President 
Ignacio  Comonfort  lived  in  Tacubaya,  and  here,  in  1841,  the 
venomous  and  extraordinarily  active  Santa  Anna  planned 
one  of  his  numerous  revolutions.  It  was  the  scene  (April  11, 
1859)  of  a sanguinary  struggle  between  the  Liberals,  under 
Degollado,  and  the  Conservatives,  led  by  General  Leonardo 
Marquez,  known  as  the  “ Tiger  of  Tacubaya,”  and  whose  career 


418  Route  42. 


POPOTLA 


of  cruelty  was  almost  unexampled.  The  Liberals  (fighting 
for  enlightenment  and  freedom  from  the  thraldom  of  the 
church)  were  defeated,  and  many  of  them  executed : but  in  so 
brutal  a manner  that  the  place  was  thereafter  called  La 
Ciudad  de  los  Martires  — city  of  the  martyrs.  The  anniversary 
of  this  battle  is  celebrated  with  great  solemnity.  Tacubaya  was 
formerly  the  chosen  residence  of  the  wealth  and  aristocracy 
of  the  capital.  Many  palatial  country  houses  still  stand,  sur- 
rounded by  great  parks  and  shut  in  by  high  stone  walls. 

Popotla  (Aztec,  vopotl  = broom-corn,  and  tlan  — place, 
called  Popotlan  by  the  Indian  inhabitants),  a suburb  of  Tacuba 
(V.  PI.  C,  3)  midway  between  Mex.  City  (2J  M.)  and  Azca- 
potzalco,  reached  in  12  min.  by  the  electric  cars  of  the  Azca- 
potzalco  line  from  the  Zocalo  (frequent  intervals,  fare  12  c.), 
is  chiefly  celebrated  as  the  home  of  the  venerable  Tree  of 
the  Dismal  Night  — arbol  de  la  noche  triste , intimately  asso- 
ciated with  the  history  of  the  Conquest.  This  giant  Ahuehuete, 
or  Sabino  (Taxodium  distichum)  belongs  to  the  family  of  coni- 
fers, and  is  known  in  the  U.  S.  A.  as  the  deciduous  Amer.  cy- 
press; and  locally  as  the  Mex.  cypress.  The  wood  of  this 
species  is  remarkable  for  durability;  the  branches  were  an- 
ciently used  at  funerals  and  to  adorn  tombs.  The  tree  is  an 
emblem  of  mourning  and  sadness.  In  the  even  climate  of  the 
Mex.  highlands  it  attains  enormous  size  and  great  age  — as  is 
evidenced  by  the  trees  of  the  same  species  in  the  forest  of 
Chapultepec  (p.  384). 

This  ancient  “tree  of  the  sad  night ” — perchance  the  only 
living  witness  of  the  horrors  of  the  Spanish  invasion  and  Con- 
quest — is  now  bowed  beneath  the  weight  of  centuries,  and 
is  but  a simulacrum  of  its  former  self.  Relicomaniacs  have 
made  such  serious  inroads  upon  it,  that  it  is  now  carefully 
watched,  and  is  protected  from  relic-hunters  by  an  iron  railing 
(said  to  have  been  forged  from  shackles,  chains  and  instruments 
of  torture  used  by  the  inquisition  in  Mexico)  within  which  no 
one  is  allowed.  Those  who  attempt  to  touch  or  deface  the  tree 
are  imprisoned  and  fined.  It  was  seriously  injured  in  1872 
by  fanatical  Indians  who  attempted  to  burn  it.  Recently, 
skilled  horticulturists  removed  all  the  dead  matter  from  the 
heart  of  the  tree,  thoroughly  scraped  the  living  wood  and 
filled  the  openings  with  cement,  in  an  effort  to  prolong  its  life. 
Pieces  of  this  tree  are  preserved  in  the  Museo  National,  at 
Mex.  City,  and  in  the  Museo  Naval  at  Madrid.  Hernan  Cortes 
is  said  to  have  sat  beneath  this  tree  and  wept  when  he  saw  his 
sadly  reduced  army  file  past  after  the  sanguinary  and  disas- 
trous retreat  from  Tenochtitlan  July  2,  1520. 

Hard  by  the  tree  is  the  old  Church  of  San  Esteban , erected 
(in  the  16th  cent.)  to  commemorate  the  Sad  Night. 

Tacuba  or  Tlacdpan  (Aztec  =tlacotl , flower-pot,  and  pan  — 
place),  3J  M.  north-west  of  Mex.  City  and  the  seat  of  a muni- 


TACUBA 


J+2.  Route.  419 


cipality,  is  reached  by  the  Tacuba  electric  cars  from  the  Zocalo 
(at  frequent  intervals);  time,  12  min.,  fare  12  c. 

The  town  was  founded  by  Tlacomanatzin,  Cacique  of  the 
Tepaneca  Indians , long  before  the  Spanish  Invasion,  and  it 
was  admitted  into  the  Aztec  Confederate  States  in  1430. 
Between  this  period  and  1525  it  was  ruled  over  by  the  Aztec 
Kings  Totoquinauhtzin  /,  Chimalpopoca , Totoquinauhtzin  II 
and  T etlepanquetzaltzin , — the  latter  renowned  as  the  last 
prince  of  the  line,  and  as  the  one  cruelly  tortured,  along 
with  Guatemotzin , in  1521,  by  the  soldiers  of  Cortes.  When 
Cortes  besieged  Tenochtitlan  the  Tacubans  joined  forces  with 
the  Aztecs,  and  fought  heroically  in  defence  of  the  city.  Ta- 
cuba was  occupied  by  the  Spaniards  under  Alvarado  in  May, 
1521,  and  the  handsome  and  flourishing  town  was  partly 
destroyed.  A great  number  of  the  inhabitants  perished.  The 
place  never  regained  its  prestige.  In  1530  some  Aztec  converts 
built  a church  here,  the  walls  and  arches  of  which  are  incor- 
porated in  the  present  Parroquta , erected  by  the  Franciscan 
Friars,  and  dedicated  to  St.  Gabriel.  The  adjoining  monastery 
was  constructed  coincidently  with  the  present  church.  The 
cloister  contains  a number  of  Aztec  relics  (taken  from  the 
primitive  church) , among  which  are  some  carved  stone  cylin- 
ders supposed  to  have  served  as  chronological  records  of  the 
Aztec  Pabas  (priests) . 

A Passion  Play  characterized  by  superstition,  quasi-solem- 
nity, much  noise  and  tawdry  display,  is  enacted  here  by  the 
Indians  during  Holy  Week.  Hordes  of  the  Valley  Indians 
assemble  to  take  part  in  the  fiesta , and  pickpockets,  insects 
of  the  genus  Pulex,  and  microbes  abound.  The  ceremony  is 
interesting  to  foreign  visitors  merely  as  a relic  of  the  idolatrous 
practices  in  vogue  before  the  enactment  of  the  famous  Re- 
form Laws.  The  neighborhood  abounds  in  stone  relics  of  the 
Aztec  occupation. 

Azcapotzalco  (Aztec,  azcaputzalli  — ant-hill,  or  a spot 
swarming  with  people),  in  the  prefecture  of  Guadalupe-Hi- 
dalgo,  municipalidad  of  Azcapotzalco,  5 M.  from  Mexico  City 
(V.  PI.  B,  2),  is  reached  by  several  daily  trains  on  the  National 
Rlys.  of  Mex.,  time  20  min.,  fare  21  cts.  (1st  cl.),  and  by  the 
Azcapotzalco  electric  car  line  from  the  Plaza  Mayor  (M.  C.)  at 
frequent  intervals,  fare  1st  cl.  20  c.  The  town  stands  in  the 
midst  of  fine  groves  of  giant  Ahuehuetes  (cypress  trees),  and 
the  ancient  Indian  name  is  symbolized  by  a crude  figure 
(supposed  to  represent  an  ant-hill)  on  that  side  of  the  paro- 
chial church  tower  which  faces  the  plaza. 

The  place  is  believed  to  have  been  founded  in  the  12th  cent, 
by  Xolotl , surnamed  the  Great;  a powerful  cacique  of  the 
Chichimecs  or  Tepaneca  Indians.  The  Azcapotzalco  Indians 
conquered  the  town  in  1299,  but  were  driven  out  (1428)  by 
the  Aztecs  under  the  leadership  of  a cruel  and  dreaded  chief- 


420  Route  J$. 


AZCAPOTZALCO 


tain,  Maxtla.  In  the  years  following  it  became  renowned  as 
the  centre  of  a great  slave  trade,  and  also  for  its  skilled  artisans 
in  the  precious  metals.  The  present  population  (6,000)  repre- 
sents but  a tithe  of  the  former  greatness  of  the  town.  With 
the  advent  of  the  Spaniards  its  prestige  vanished.  They  de- 
stroyed a great  teocalli  which  occupied  a commanding  site  in 
the  centre  of  the  Indian  city,  and  permitted  the  Dominican 
friars  to  erect  (1565)  their  first  church  and  monastery  on  the 
site.  The  church  was 'demolished  later  to  make  way  for  the 
present  Parroquia,  completed  and  dedicated  Oct.  8,  1702.  A 
great  olive  garden  surrounded  the  church  at  one  time,  and  the 
high  wall  (very  picturesque)  was  formerly  surmounted  by 
life-size  figures  of  certain  saints  of  the  Dominican  Order. 
These,  along  with  much  of  the  wall,  were  demolished  Aug. 
19,  1821,  during  a fierce  encounter  (known  as  the  battle  of 
Azcapotzalco)  between  the  Mexican  troops  under  General  Bus- 
tamante and  the  Royalist  (Spanish)  soldiers.  In  the  monas- 
tery cloister  (open  all  day,  no  fees)  are  several  paintings, 
notable  among  them  a Santa  Ana,  by  N.  J.  Rodriguez,  and 
a Last  Supper  and  The  Taking  of  Christ,  by  Juan  Correa. 
A number  of  unsigned  and  equally  uninteresting  canvases 
hang  on  the  walls. 

The  Plaza  Principal,  with  its  pretty  garden,  occupies  the  site 
of  the  pleasure  grounds  which  surrounded  the  palace  of  the 
Tepanec  Princes.  The  street  cars  from  Mexico  City  stop  here. 

South  of  the  railway  station  (a  few  minutes’  walk)  is  the 
old  teocalli  of  the  Aztec  rulers.  The  line  cuts  across  the  ruins 
which  are  now  but  a confused  mass  of  mortar  and  stone. 
North  of  the  station  (15  minutes’  walk)  is  the  Parque  de  Ahue- 
huetes,  of  San  Juan  Tilihuac:  formerly  an  Aztec  pleasure- 
ground,  and  now  used  for  horse-races,  picnics  and  as  a prome- 
nade. The  most  notable  feature  is  a group  of  six  ahuehuetes 
of  colossal  proportions,  with  interlocked  branches,  and  gnarled 
roots  which  serve  as  seats.  According  to  an  Indian  tradition 
a fine  spring  of  crystal  water  once  bubbled  up  among  these 
roots.  It  was  the  favorite  resort  of  the  spirit  of  Malinche , a 
siren  who  enticed  thirsty  wayfarers  to  drink  of  the  waters  of 
the  spring,  with  the  result  that  they  at  once  disappeared  never 
to  return.  Her  siren  song  is  yet  heard  — by  the  credulous  — 
at  dawn  and  twilight,  and  no  Indian  will  then  pass  the 
spring.  Whosoever  enters  the  grove  and  places  his  ear  close  to 
the  ground  will  hear  (it  is  said)  the  spring  murmuring  and 
singing  far  below,  and  this  sound  possesses  a sort  of  enchant- 
ment for  the  listener  and  presages  his  early  demise! 

The  malign  spirit  of  Malinche  (or  Marina)  — eternally 
restless  for  having  leagued  herself  with  the  Spaniards  — is 
supposed  to  also  haunt  the  waters  of  Zancopinca  pond,  on  the 
Hacienda  de  San  Cristobal  Azpetia  (about  one  mile  E.  of  the 
monastery  and  reached  by  a road  which  runs  past  it).  A big 


MEXICO  CITY  TO  PACHUCA  4$.  Rte . 421 


spring  formerly  fed  this  pond  and  supplied  the  Aztecs  with 
water  through  the  Tlaltelolco  aqueduct.  The  superstitious 
Indians  believe  that  many  supernatural  happenings  may  be 
witnessed  at  this  pond.  The  beguiling  spirit  of  Malinche  is 
supposed  to  emerge  at  midday  (her  mornings  are  passed  at 
the  Spring  of  Chapultepec,  where  she  is  a sweet  and  benign 
goddess),  and  her  bewitching  song  — one  of  infinite  allurement 
— causes  men  to  cast  themselves  into  the  waters,  whence 
they  never  return.  The  neighboring  Indians  believe  also  that 
her  spirit  guards  the  treasures  of  Guatemotzin  which,  when  the 
water  is  clear,  may  be  seen  glistening  at  the  bottom  of  the 
pond!  When  one  suddenly  and  mysteriously  disappears  from 
this  vicinity  the  Indians  say  that  he  or  she  “ has  drunk  of  the 
waters  of  the  Ahuehuete  spring,  or  has  seen  Malinche  at  the 
pond.”  An  annual  fair  is  held  here  (Sept.)  with  bull-fights, 
horse-races,  round-ups  (semi-wild  cattle  and  vaqueros  — cow- 
boys) , and  other  features.  A sort  of  crude  Passion  Play  is 
also  enacted  here  on  Good  Friday. 

43.  From  Mexico  City  to  Pachuca,  via  the  Ferro- 
carriles  Nacionales  de  Mexico,  The  Mexican,  and 
The  Hidalgo  and  Northeastern  Railroads. 

61  M.  Two  through  trains  daily  in  2 hrs.  (fare,  see  p.  xxxi)  vi&  the  F. 
C.  Nacional  (from  the  Buena  Vista  station,  p.  232),  which  has  the  shortest 
line,  and  which  makes  the  trip  without  change  of  cars.  To  reach  Pachuca 
over  The  Mexican  Railway  (station  at  Buena  Vista),  we  proceed  over 
the  main  line  (Rte.  44,  p.  424)  to  Ometusco,  thence  over  the  RamoX  de 
Pachuca  (from  M.  C.  70  M.  in  4 hrs.).  A third  line,  Compania  del  Fer- 
rocarril  Hidalgo  y Nordeste  (operated  by  the  National  Railways  of 
Mexico,  station  at  Peralvillo,  p.  233),  runs  (several)  trains  to  Tepa  and  to 
Irolo  with  a change  of  cars  (69  M.  in  3£  hrs.).  An  attractive  feature  of 
this  line  — which  traverses  the  fertile  valley  of  Tulancingo  — is  the  cele- 
brated Zempoalla  aqueduct,  one  of  the  three  most  notable  in  the  Republic. 

Mexico  City,  see  p.  233.  — The  trains  of  the  National 
Rlys.  proceed  N.  to  Lecheria  (Rte.  31,  p.  137),  then  follow  the 
Ramal  toward  the  N.-E.  through  a pretty  country  highly 
cultivated.  Some  of  the  wide  valleys,  dotted  with  haciendas 
(where  many  sheep  are  raised),  are  very  attractive.  The  coun- 
try was  once  densely  populated.  Many  churches  are  visible 
in  the  distance.  The  plains  soon  break  up  into  hills  covered 
with  cacti  in  which  the  aloe,  the  nopal  and  the  candelabra 
species  are  the  most  prominent.  The  eye  travels  over  many 
miles  of  country  devoted  to  the  production  of  pulque. 

The  trains  of  The  Mexican  Rly.  proceed  E.  over  the  main 
line  (Rte.  44,  p.  424)  to  Ometusco.  The  Pachuca.  train  stands  on  a 
siding  at  the  same  station.  The  environing  country,  including 
the  rounded  hill-tops,  is  under  cultivation,  and  spiky  maguey 
plants  are  omnipresent  features  of  the  landscape.  During  the 
dry  season  the  highways  are  ankle  deep  in  dust.  The  branch 


422  Route  43. 


PACHUCA 


line  curves  toward  the  N.  and  penetrates  a hilly  country 
dotted  with  cacti  and  pepper-trees.  The  hills  are  jejune  and 
impregnated  with  alkali.  At  Zempoalla  a diligencia  conveys 
passengers  to  the  (1  M.)  town  for  25  c. 

Pachuca.  — Arrival.  The  Rly.  Station  is  about  1 M.  from  the  centre  of 
the  town  — a long,  dusty  walk.  Cabs  25  c.  Tranvias  5 c. 

Hotels.  Gran  Hotel  Grenfell  Antigua  Casa  de  Diligencias,  on  the  W.  side 
of  the  Plaza  de  la  Independent.  S2.50-S3  Am.  PI.  Hotel  Central  (on  the 
car  line)  near  the  Teatro.  S2-S2.50  Am.  PI. 

Pachuca  (8,000  ft.),  capital  of  the  State  of  Hidalgo,  with  a 
population  of  40,000,  is  one  of  the  greatest,  as  well  as  one  of 
the  oldest,  mining  centres  in  the  Republic.  One  of  the  first 
Spanish  settlements  in  New  Spain  was  established  here.  Fol- 
lowing the  discovery  of  the  first  mine  by  the  Spaniards  in 
1534,  the  output  of  mineral  became  enormous.  The  old  Trini- 
dad mine  alone  produced  silver  to  the  value  of  forty  millions 
of  pesos  in  ten  years.  Hundreds  of  mines  honeycomb  the  hills 
which  encircle  three  sides  of  the  towTn,  on  the  edge  6f  which 
there  are  several  reduction  plants  for  the  amalgamation  of  the 
silver  ores.  The  place  has  all  the  aspect  of  a mining  camp.  It 
lies  at  the  head  of  a wide  gulch,  and  the  hills  wrhich  slope 
sharply  upward  from  the  ends  of  the  streets  (some  of  which 
are  called  cafiones  or  gulches)  form  a sort  of  pipe  through 
which  there  almost  continuously  draws  a thin,  disagreeable 
wind  — un  airecillo  muy  molesto.  The  hillsides  are  perforated 
by  tunnels  around  which  lie  terraces  of  gray  tailings.  The 
white  stone  shafts,  which  are  conspicuous  features  of  the  hills, 
delimn  mining  claims.  One  of  the  largest  reduction  plants 
( haciendas  de  beneficio)  stands  at  the  base  of  the  hill  near  the 
top  of  the  town.  In  some  of  the  older  plants  the  “patio  pro- 
cess,” invented  here  in  1557  by  Bartolome  de  Medina , is  still 
employed : albeit  this  simple  method  for  amalgamating  the 
Mexican  silver  ores  was  of  transcendental  importance  to  the 
country,  and  was  widely  used  for  nearly  four  centuries  after 
its  discovery,  it  is  now  being  replaced  by  the  new  cyaniding 
process,  which  is  more  efficient  and  economical  for  extracting 
silver  from  dry  or  silicious  ores. 

The  very  irregularity  of  the  narrow,  winding  streets  imparts 
a picturesqueness  which  is  heightened  by  certain  quaint  old 
houses  — relics  of  the  early  Colonial  times.  Prominent 
among  these  edifices  is  the 

Caja,  in  the  la  Calle  las  Cajas , a bizarre,  fortress-like  structure  erected 
in  1670  (by  Don  Sebastian  de  Toledo,  Marques  de  Mancera)  as  a treasury 
for  the  Royal  tribute.  The  Casas  Coloradas  (red  houses),  built  near  the 
close  of  the  18th  cent,  by  the  Conde  de  Regia,  are  now  used  as  govern- 
ment offices  and  are  uninteresting.  The  Church  of  San  Francisco  (at  the 
lower  end  of  the  town)  was  erected  in  1596.  The  old  conventual  building 
adjacent  is  now  a government  barrack. 

The  uninteresting  Church  of  La  A suncion  de  la  Virgen,  in  the  Plaza  de 
la  Constitucion , dates  from  the  17th  cent.  Hard  by,  almost  hidden  by 


REAL  DEL  MONTE  43.  Route.  423 

little  market  stalls,  is  an  imposing  marble  statue  (erected  in  1888)  to 
Miguel  Hidalgo. 

The  Tedtro  Bartolome  de  Medina , on  the  main  street,  was  erected  in 
1893  to  the  memory  of  the  man  who  invented  the  “patio  process.”  The 
fine  Banco  de  Hidalgo,  overlooking  the  Plaza  de  la  Independencia,  is 
modern. 

The  Environs  of  Pachuca  are  more  interesting  than  the  town  itself. 
Beyond  the  hills  is  the  celebrated  Xixi  Mt.,  at  the  foot  of  which  are 
curiously  shaped  rocks  of  immense  size,  the  Penas  Cargadas,  or 
Loaded  Rocks.  On  the  Hacienda  de  Regia , there  is  a huge  basaltic  forma- 
tion spoken  of  as  the  Giant's  Causeway  of  America.  Cliffs  over  150  ft. 
high  enclose  a wide  and  deep  basin  known  as  M etlapiles:  the  walls  are 
immense  basaltic  columns,  split  by  a gorge  through  which  rushes  a great 
volume  of  water  that  tumbles  into  the  basin.  “In  one  place  the  great 
columns  are  crowded  out,  as  though  by  the  superincumbent  weight  of 
the  earth,  or  as  if  the  giant  that  fashioned  them  had  bent  them  outward 
from  the  perpendicular  face-line  of  the  cliff  when  in  a state  of  fusion. 
The  bed  of  the  river  that  flows  down  toward  the  barranca  is  paved  with 
hexagonal  and  pentagonal  blocks.”  Visible  in  the  distance,  in  the  same 
Mt.  range,  are  the  noteworthy  Organos  de  Actopan,  distinguishing  fea- 
tures of  the  Sierra  de  Pachuca  — in  which  Pachuca  lies. 

The  Real  del  Monte  Mine,  6 M.  distant,  is  said  to  be  one  of  the 
most  extensive  mining  properties  of  the  world.  Several  mines  form  a 
group  which,  since  1905,  have  been  operated  by  an  American  company. 
The  original  owner,  Pedro  Jose  Romero  de  Terreros,  a muleteer,  bought 
the  main  mine  (in  1739)  for  $60,000.  Soon  thereafter  it  came  into 
bonanza,  and  before  1781  it  had  yielded  nearly  fifteen  millions  of  pesos. 
Terreros  gained  international  renown  by  his  extravagances.  He  loaned 
the  King  of  Spain  a million  pesos,  and  presented  him  with  several  war- 
ships fully  equipped,  for  which  he  received  a patent  of  nobility  and 
became  the  Conde  de  Santa  Maria  de  Regia  (p.  295).  Near  the  close  of  the 
century  a subterranean  river  burst  into  the  mine,  flooding  and  ruining 
it.  Alexander  Von  Humboldt  visited  it  in  1803,  and  his  report  of  the 
almost  fabulous  wealth,  drowned  out  by  the  waters,  gave  rise  in  Eng- 
land to  a mining  craze  which  for  wild  speculation  almost  equalled  the 
Mississippi  Bubble.  In  1824  there  was  formed  in  London  the  famous 
Real  del  Monte  Company,  and  a Captain  Vetch,  of  the  Royal  Engineers, 
and  350  Cornish  miners  and  their  families  were  sent  out  along  with  three 
ship-loads  of  machinery  which  was  laboriously  dragged  up  the  moun- 
tains from  Vera  Cruz.  Albeit  the  mines  were  in  a ruinous  state  when  the 
new  company  took  them  over  in  July,  1824,  the  shares  rose  rapidly  in 
value,  and  during  the  ensuing  year  par  value  shares  of  £100  sold  in  the 
open  market  for  £16,000.  The  marked  optimism  of  the  usually  prudent 
London  bankers  gave  rise  to  extravagance  and  mismanagement  at  the 
mines.  In  25  years  four  million  sterling  had  been  spent  for  a gross  return 
of  three  millions,  and  in  Oct.,  1848,  the  company  went  into  liquidation. 
In  1850  a local  company  bought  the  property  for  $130,000,  and  imme- 
diately thereafter  the  great  Rosario  bonanza  was  uncovered.  Within  a 
few  years  over  eighty  millions  of  pesos  were  extracted.  The  present 
owners  are  said  to  have  paid  $4,000,000  for  the  property. 

Hidalgo  State  (an  Estado  del  Centro),  with  a pop.  of  605,000  and  an 
area  of  23,101  sqr.  kilom.,  is  one  of  the  most  mountainous  of  the  Mex. 
states,  and  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  San  Luis  Potosi  and  Vera  Cruz, 
on  the  E.  by  Puebla,  on  the  S.  by  Mexico  and  Tlaxcala,  and  on  the  W. 
bv  Queretaro.  It  is  named  in  honor  of  the  revolutionary  patriot  Miguel 
Hidalgo  y Costilla.  The  Tulancingo,  Zimapan,  Jacala,  Zacuatilpdm, 
Hueyutla  and  Pachuca  ranges  of  the  Sierra  Madre  system  cross  the  state: 
the  highest  peaks  are  Tapelilldn,  Creston,  Cerro  Alto,  Cresta  de  Gallo, 
Los  Organos  (see  below),  and  El  Cerro  de  Navaja,  — the  latter  over  10,000 
ft.  This  Mt.  is  near  the  great  barranca  of  Izaila,  celebrated  as  the  spot 
whence  the  Aztecs  obtained  the  brilliant  black  obsidian  (iztli)  out  of 
which  they  fashioned  knives,  and  many  minor  cutting  instruments,  as 
sharp  as  steel.  The  cerro  contains  an  apparently  inexhaustible  supply 
of  this  volcanic  glass.  There  are  several  curious  caves  in  the  vicinity. 
Los  Organos  de  Actopan  (called  also  Los  Frailes  — the  friars)  are  of 


424  Route  43a.  HIDALGO  STATE 


singular  formation  and  resemble  the  huge  pipes  of  an  organ  — hence 
their  name.  A fine  stained  glass  window  representing  these  odd  peaks 
may  be  seen  in  the  National  Geological  Institute  (p.  341)  at  Mexico  City. 
On  the  highway  between  Xochicoatldn  and  Malila  one  crosses  the  Pena 
Partida , a fine  natural  barranca  caused  by  the  separation  of  two  gigantic 
hills  in  the  neighborhood.  Near  the  small  Pueblo  of  Zempoalla  (on  the 
F.  C.  Hidalgo  y Nordeste,  p.  421)  is  a magnificent  old  aqueduct  (one  of  the 
three  most  celebrated  in  the  Republic),  the  wrnrk  of  the  Franciscan  Friar 
Francisco  Tembleque.  The  8.  and  W.  regions  of  the  state  are  flat.  The 
Valley  of  Tulancingo  — one  of  great  beauty  — possesses  many  cotton  mills. 

The  climate  is  cold  in  the  highlands  and  temperate  on  the  plains. 
Splendid  fruits  thrive  in  the  latter  region,  and  the  chief  agricultural 
products  are  rice  (and  many  other  cereals),  ixtli  (fibre),  pulque  (p.  lxxxii), 
ja’.ap , sarsaparilla,  green  peppers  (\ztec= chilli),  coffee,  tobacco,  and  a 
wealth  of  minor  products.  In  the  tierra  caliente,  or  lowlands,  the  forests 
are  thronged  with  fine  woods,  notably  mahogany,  white  and  red  cedar, 
rosewood,  walnut,  ebony,  and  whatnot.  Splendid  pine  forests  clothe  the 
slopes  of  some  of  the  hills  in  the  highlands,  and  myrtle  and  a host  of 
shrubs  and  trees  are  features  of  the  temperate  zone.  The  state  is  one 
of  the  most  highly  mineralized  in  the  Repub.;  gold,  silver,  copper,  mer- 
cury, iron,  lead,  zinc,  antimony,  manganese  and  plumbago  are  found, 
as  well  as  sulphur,  jasper,  marble,  red -ochre,  kaolin,  lithographic-stone, 
opals  and  so  on.  Statistics  credit  the  state  with  an  annual  production 
of  metals  valued  at  six  millions  of  pesos.  About  120  mines  are  in  opera- 
tion, beside  50  reduction  works  for  the  treatment  of  the  finer  metals,  and 
several  for  smelting  iron  ore. 

43a.  From  Mexico  City  to  Puebla. 

208  K.  Ferrocarril  Interoceanico.  Two  trains  daily  in  about 
5 hrs.  (fare,  see  p.  xxxi)  over  the  Jalapa  Division.  The  line  traverses  one 
of  the  greatest  pulque-producing  (p.  lxxxii)  regions  in  the  Repub.,  and 
vast  quantities  of  the  bianco  neutli  are  brought  into  the  city  each  morn- 
ing from  the  huge  haciendas  which  lie  contiguous  to  the  line. 

The  trains  start  from  the  San  Lazaro  Station  (see  p.  233  and 
PI.  J,  4)  and  pass  out  through  the  tawdry  E.  quarter  of  the 
city.  The  huge  penitenciaria  (p.  368)  is  visible  on  the  1.,  as  is 
also  the  broad  Lake  T excoco.  The  town  of  (39  K.)  T excoco  is 
mentioned  at  p.  499.  The  scenery  between  the  city  and  90  K. 
Irolo  is  much  like  that  of  Rte.  44,  below.  Beyond  Irolo  the  line 
curves  broadly  toward  the  S.  and  traverses  many  miles  of 
fertile  land  devoted  exclusively  to  wide  magueyales , or  pulque- 
haciendas.  At  100  K.  San  Lorenzo , a typical  hacienda  is  seen; 
the  cluster  of  buildings  enclosed  within  mediaeval-looking 
walls  resembles  a fortress.  The  line  climbs  into  the  hills  and 
describes  many  sweeping  curves.  The  splendid  views  of  Po- 
pocatepetl (p.  463)  and  Iztaccihuatl  (p.  464)  on  the  1.  are  in- 
spiring. As  we  near  Puebla  the  rly.  enters  a fine  farming  coun- 
try where  maize,  wheat  and  alfalfa  are  the  staples.  The  old 
hiil-top  Church  of  Cholula  (p.  518)  is  descried  on  the  r. 

The  region  bears  a primitive  aspect,  as  if  the  progress  now  so  noticeable 
in  other  sections  of  the  Republic  had  failed  to  influence  it.  But  this  does 
not  detract  from  its  picturesqueness,  which  is  that  of  early  Indian  Mexico, 
wi ' h its  pilgrimages  and  miracles  and  its  priestly  rites  and  observances.  The 
walled  haciendas  suggest  sieges  and  troublous  days  and  feudalism.  It  is  one 
of  the  oldest  sections  of  Mexico,  for  the  nearby  Pyramid  of  Cholula  was 
buib  perhaps  about  the  opening  years  of  the  Christian  era,  fifteen  centuries 
or  more  before  Columbus  or  his  following  horde  of  conquistadores  came  into 
the  world.  208  K.  Puebla,  see  p.  508. 


SAN  JUAN  TEOTIHUACAN  U-  Rte.  425 


r 44.  From  Mexico  City  via  the  Pyramids  of  San 
Juan  Teotihuacan  and  Tlaxcala  to  Puebla. 

MEXICAN  RAILROAD  (FERROCARRIL  MEXICANO)  AND 
EL  FERROCARRIL  DE  TLAXCALA. 

To  the  (45  Kiloms.)  Pyramids  of  San  Juan  Teotihuacan;  several  trains 
daily  in  about  1 hour.  Popular  Excursions  Sundays  (and  other  times;  for 
fares,  etc.,  see  the  newspapers  and  the  rly.  folders).  Trains  leave  Mexico 
City  (from  the  Buena  Vista  station)  in  the  A.  m.  and  return  in  p.  m.,  allow- 
ing ample  time  for  a detailed  inspection  of  the  Ruins.  — To  (186  K.  in  5-6 
hrs.)  Puebla.  (PI.  E,  3.)  Cars  for  Puebla  leave  the  main  line  at  Apizaco 
Junction.  — At  the  San  Juan  Teotihuacan  station  (and  town)  tram-cars 
meet  trains  and  carry  passengers  to  (l£  M.,  in  about  8 min.)  The  Ruins. 
Autos  make  the  trip  in  about  5 min.  Refreshments  obtainable  at  the  Hotel 
de  las  Piramides,  about  i M.  at  the  r.  of  the  pyramids  (as  we  approach 
them).  Near  the  hotel  are  some  (uninteresting)  grottoes  ( grutas ). 

Mexico  City,  see  p.  233.  Leaving  the  Buena  Vista  Station 
( estacion  de  Buena  Vista)  we  pass  out  through  the  N.-E.  quar- 
ter of  the  capital  toward  Guadalupe , thence  skirt  the  shore 
of  Lake  Texcoco  (r.)  . The  stations  between  Mex.  City  and 
Apizaco  are  mentioned  at  p.  497.  Rte.  52. 

28  M.  San  Juan  Teotihuacan  (Aztec:  teteo  — plural  of  teotl 
— gods;  hua,  having;  can , place  — place  where  the  gods  reside 
or  come)  a sacrosanct  place  of  transcendental  importance  in 
the  theogony  and  cosmogony  of  the  ancient  Nahoas. 

On  the  way  to  the  Pyramid  Of  the  Sun  (which  should  be  ascended  for  the 
sake  of  the  view),  the  traveller  should  not  fail  to  inspect  the  Museo  Regional 
(described  hereinafter)  where  guidebooks,  maps,  photographs,  postcards, 
and  sometimes  souvenirs  are  on  sale  at  reasonable  prices.  The  ‘antiques’ 

[ offered  for  sale  near  the  ruins  are  very  apt  to  be  spurious.  Before  leaving 
the  neighborhood  one  should  see  the  Ciudadela,  or  Citadel.  — Students  of 
archaeology,  ethnography  and  ecclesiology  may,  by  enlisting  the  sympa- 
thetic interest  of  Dr.  Manuel  Gamio , the  erudite  Director  of  Anthropology 
in  the  department  of  that  name,  in  the  Secretaria  de  Agricultura  y Fomento , 
at  Mexico  City  (office  in  the  Calle  Filomeno  Mata,  4)  secure  a letter  of  in- 
troduction to  the  official  in  charge  of  the  ruins,  and  thereby  spend  the  day  to 
better  advantage. 

“Historians  concur  in  the  belief  that  in  the  remote  and 
mighty  past  a great  peregrinating  tribe,  guided,  possibly,  by 
the  lure  of  wealth,  or  land  or  liberty,  came  to  Mexico,  bringing 
with  them  the  knowledge  of  a symbolic  art  reflecting  that 
which  still  exists  on  the  banks  of  Father  Nile.  The  mysterious 
route,  undoubtedly  followed  for  some  set  purpose,  is  marked 
on  the  American  continent  by  colossal  monuments  that  even 
the  destructive  hand  of  time  seems  not  to  violate.”  These 
unknown  people  left  behind  them,  from  Yucatan  to  Sonora 
and  thence  into  Arizona  and  Colorado  (U.  S.  A.),  ruins  so 
stupendous  that  the  traveller  regards  them  in  silence  and  awe. 
Palenque  (p.  567)  with  its  temples  and  palaces,  Chichen-Itza 
(p.  581)  and  Uxmal  (p.  580)  with  their  Buddha-like  shrines 
Cholula  (p.  518)  and  San  Juan  Teotihuacan  with  their  gigantic 
mounds,  inspire  the  same  sentiment  of  admiration  and  respect. 
When  the  Spaniards  invaded  Mexico  four  centuries  ago  the 


426  Rte.  U-  SAN  JUAN  TEOTIHUACAN 

ruined  cities  of  Mexico  were  practically  in  the  same  condition 
as  they  are  to-day.  To  Cortes  and  his  amazed  followers,  they 
were  as  much  a mystery  as  they  proved  to  the  many  savants 
who  followed  them. 

The  Tzacualli,  or  Sacred  Pyramids  of  San  Juan  Teotihuacan,  known 

also  as  the  Pyramids  of  the  Sun  and  Moon,  28  M.  N.-E.  of  the  Mexican 
capital,  are  considered  the  two  largest  artificial  mounds  in  America.  Seen 
from  the  railway  they  appear  squat  and  nondescript;  it  is  only  when  one 
stands  near  them  and  views  them  from  the  plain  from  which  they  rise  that 
their  true  proportions  are  apparent.  Their  origin  is  buried  in  the  remote 
past,  and  the  traditions  referring  to  them  throw  but  scant  light  on  their 
history  or  that  of  the  people  who  erected  them.  That  they  antedate  the 
Christian  era  is  proved  by  the  fact  that  the  peculiar  style  of  architecture 
shows  no  Maya  characteristics,  or  that  of  any  peoples  who  succeeded  them, 
and  the  Mayas  flourished  in  the  opening  year  of  our  era.  Certain  Indian 
fables  date  their  erection  from  the  epoch  of  the  gods;  more  concise  histo- 
rians believe  they  are  due  to  some  tribe  which  existed  long  before  the  ear- 
liest period  of  Nahoa  supremacy. 

Teotihuacan  shows  two  distinct  periods  of  development,  one  city  superim- 
posed on  another  — a characteristic  of  most  of  the  ruins  in  the  Valley  of 
Mexico.  This  can  be  observed  in  almost  every  structure  in  the  Teotihuacan 
Valley,  particularly  in  the  small  ruins  known  as  El  Subeterraneo,  and  in  the 
Citadel.  Who  the  people  were  no  man  knows.  Both  cities  were  destroyed 
in  a manner  unknown  to  history,  and  their  inhabitants  disappeared  as 
silently  and  as  mysteriously  as  they  had  come.  The  name  Teotihuacan  is 
one  of  the  earliest  preserved  in  Nahoa  annals,  and  there  can  be  little  doubt 
that  the  pyramids  are  older  than  those  of  Cholula  (p.  518),  or  that  they  were 
erected  before  what  is  regarded  as  the  Toltec  Era  in  Anahuac. 

That  a pyramid-erecting  people  existed  in  Mexico  at  some  remote  period 
in  the  dim  twilight  of  time  is  shown  by  those  of  Papantla  (p.  507),  Cholula 
(p.  518),  and  other  places  in  the  Republic.  These,  with  Teotihuacan , in- 
stinctively remind  one  of  the  Gizeh  group  of  pyramids,  70  of  which  survive 
between  Abu  Rodsh  and  Meidoum.  While  none  of  those  in  Mexico  are  as 
large  as  the  Great  Pyramid  of  Cheops  (or  Pharaoh  Khufu),  which  is  451 
ft.  high  by  755  ft.  along  the  side,  at  the  base,  both  are  artificial;  that  of 
Egypt  constructed  of  solid  masonry  blocks,  and  that  of  the  Sun  of  adobe 
blocks. 

An  extensive  city  at  one  time  spread  away  from  the  base  of  the  pyramids, 
as  traces  exist  over  an  extension  of  about  4 M.  long  by  2 M.  broad.  An  area 
comprising  about  494  acres  at  present  constitutes  the  archseological  zone. 
According  to  Dr.  Gamio,  this  city  was  strikingly  symmetrical,  with  fine 
buildings  whose  walls  carried  polychromatic  frescoes  representing  mytho- 
logical characters  and  depicting  scenes  in  the  life  of  the  ancient  peoples. 
Specimens  of  the  sculpture  work  in  diorite,  jade,  nephrite,  obsidian,  and 
clay,  and  personal  adornments  consisting  of  jewelry,  weapons,  etc.  are  now 
preserved  in  the  local  museum. 

The  Regional  Museum  ( museo  regional),  open  free  to  4 p.  m.,  faces  a 
pretty  little  park  flanking  the  road  leading  to  the  Pyramid  of  the  Sun. 
Just  inside  the  entrance  is  a chalk  model,  in  relief,  of  the  Zona  Arqueologica 
de  Teotihuacan.  All  the  important  places  roundabout  are  carefully  num- 
bered. Beside  many  highly  interesting  relics  exhumed  in  the  neighborhood, 
the  museo  contains  a number  of  ecclesiological  objects,  chiefly  from  the 
Acolman  district,  described  hereinafter.  Note  the  stone  dogs  called  ciriales, 
or  candle-holders,  supposed  to  have  been  taken  from  the  old  Church  at 
Acolman.  They  are  twin  brothers  of  the  Dog  of  Fo  (a  Chinese  modification 
of  Bod  — Buddha  — ),  the  mythological  lions  which  are  so  frequently  seen 
in  front  of  temples,  shrines,  graves,  etc.  in  China.  Japan  (where  they  are 
called  Shishi)  and  Korea  (where  they  are  officially  known  as  Koma-inu « 
or  Korean  dogs).  It  would  be  interesting  to  know  if  they  are  pre-Iberian. 
— The  nephrite,  and  obsidian  masks,  the  jadeite  articles,  and  the  many 
little  personal  adornments  are  all  worth  looking  at. 

The  Pyramid  of  the  Sun  ( Tonatiuh  Itzcuatl ),  a truncated  artificial  mound 
216  ft.  high  by  about  721  and  761  ft.  at  the  base,  with  an  irregular,  narrow- 
ing summit  about  59  ft.  from  N.  to  S.  and  105  ft.  from  E.  to  W.  (measure- 


PYRAMIDS  OF  SAN  JUAN  TEOTIHUACAN  426 a 


ments  approximate  only,  as  government  work  of  excavation  and  restoration 
will  alter  them)  occupies  what  is  thought  to  be  the  geographical  centre  of 
the  ancient  city.  It  is  divided  in  5 pyramidal  sections,  or  terraces,  which 
narrow  as  they  ascend. 

The  original  form  is  supposed  to  have  been  temple-shaped,  and  a splen- 
didly barbaric  temple  containing  a gigantic  statue  of  the  Sun,  made  of  a 
single  block  of  porphyry,  adorned  with  a heavy  breastplate  of  gold  and  nu- 
merous minor  embellishments,  is  thought  to  have  crowned  the  summit. 
Blocks  of  basalt  and  trachitic  rock  cover  the  sharply  sloping  sides.  The 
projecting  bits  of  porous  amygdaloid  which  dot  the  slopes  are  believed  to 
have  held  the  outer  coating  of  the  pyramid  in  shape.  Immense  buttresses 
help  to  support  the  structure,  and  between  two  of  these,  on  the  south  side, 
a small  tunnel  has  been  driven  to  the  centre. 

A series  of  unusually  wide  steps  lead  to  the  top  from  the  western  side; 
they  are  not  as  steep  or  as  formidable  as  they  appear  when  looked  at  from 
the  base.  A good  plan,  while  climbing  them,  is  not  to  look  behind,  but  to 
keep  the  eyes  fixed  on  the  steps  as  one  ascends.  Zigzagging  is  less  tiresome 
than  the  straight  climb.  When  coming  down  try  keeping  close  to  the  left 
wall. 

A broken  series  of  38  well-worn  steps  lead  from  the  ground  to  the  first 
terrace;  68  lead  thence  to  the  2d  level;  48  to  the  3d;  20  to  the  4th ; and  48  to 
the  5th.  Thence  it  is  about  15  feet  over  a dirt  slope  to  the  summit. 

A wonderful  stillness  reigns  at  the  top,  whence  the  dilated  eye  ranges 
over  thousands. of  square  miles  of  territory  that  once,  mayhap,  echoed  to 
the  happy  voices  of  many  people.  Flowers  bloom  in  the  warm  sunshine; 
the  Pyramid  of  the  Moon  stands  silent  at  the  right,  the  Ciudadela  at  the  far 
left,  while  across  the  western  front,  which  we  face,  trends  the  Camino  do 
los  Muertos,  or  Path  of  the  Dead,  so  called  because  of  the  tumuli  which 
flank  it.  From  these  mounds  wrought  stone  sarcophagi  containing  human 
bones,  obsidian  knives,  terra-cotta  heads  and  whatnot  have  been  taken.  The 
clay  heads,  or  masks,  are  supposed  to  be  effigies  of  buried  priests.  Of  the 
many  hundreds  exhumed,  no  two  are  alike  in  feature.  Some  show  a strik- 
ing resemblance  to  ancient  Egyptians,  others  are  mongoloid,  and  still 
others  negroid  in  character.  This  Highway  of  the  Dead  begins  at  the 
square  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Pyramid  of  the  Moon,  and  extends  to  the 
ravine  S.  of  the  Pyramid  of  the  Sun.  The  remains  of  well-constructed  con- 
crete sidewalks,  and  polychromatic  frescoes  have  been  unearthed  along 
this  boulevard.  — About  | M.  to  the  N.  of  the  Pyramid  of  the  Sun  is 

The  Pyramid  of  the  Moon  ( Meztli ),  about  151  ft.  high,  with  a base  meas- 
urement of  426  by  511  ft.,  and  a crowning  platform  about  19  ft.  square. 
Like  its  companion  pyramid,  this  one  is  artificial  and  is  terraced.  It 
differs  from  the  larger  structure  only  in  that  it  has  a projecting  body  on 
the  first  terrace. 

Both  pyramids  are  composed  of  five  layers  or  coats  of  earth  and  volcanic 
rock,  each  layer  complete  in  itself.  Originally  the  outer  surface  was  faced 
with  masonry,  then  plastered  over  with  a coating  of  cement  or  fine  mortar. 
Superimposed,  the  layers  resemble  a nest  of  boxes.  Two  tall  peaks  rise 
from  the  distant  ridge  of  hills,  one  exactly  south,  the  other  north,  and  it  is 
claimed  that  if  a line  were  drawn  from  one  to  the  other  it  would  pass  exactly 
over  the  apices  of  both  pyramids. 

In  line  with  the  Pyramids,  about  1 M.  to  the  east,  is  the  highly  interest- 
ing ruin  known  as  the  Temple  of  Quetzalcoatl,  or  La  Ciudadela  (the  citadel), 
a vast,  quadrilateral  structure,  recently  exhumed  and  containing  (against 
the  rear  wall)  some  remarkable  stone  carvings  representing  mythological 
subjects.  The  vast  quadrangular  court  in  which  there  are  minor  pyramids, 
covers  an  area  of  approx.  160,000  sqr.  meters.  The  four  points  of  the  en- 
closure coincide  with  the  four  points  of  the  compass.  Excavations  are  in 
progress. 

Of  interest  to  the  stranger  are  the  singularly  barbaric  sculptures  seen  to 
the  best  advantage  from  the  summit  (39  steps)  of  the  central  pyramid,  or 
square.  They  face  a narrow  passage  entered  at  the  left  of  the  extreme  rear 
of  the  enclosure;  signs  point  the  way.  Watchful  guards  are  in  attendance, 
and  relic-mongers  with  ‘impulses’  should  think  twice  before  courting  the 
unhappy  consequences  certain  to  follow  appropriations.  Tips  are  not  ex- 
pected and  should  not  be  offered.  The  stucco  on  some  of  the  walls  is  six 
inches  thick  and  carries  traces  of  the  polychromatic  decorations  which  ori- 


4266 


CHURCH  OF  ACOLMAN 


ginally  enriched  it.  Long  acquaintance  with  Indian  ruins  and  their  motives 
have  enabled  the  Mexican  artisans  to  restore  old  ruins  to  their  pristine  con- 
dition, and  this  is  being  ably  accomplished  at  this  spot.  Many  fragments  of 
stone  carvings  lie  about,  and  others  are  being  uncovered  from  time  to  time. 

Midway  of  the  Ciudadela  and  the  Pyramids,  just  off  the  road  (signboard), 
and  at  present  being  restpred,  are  some  underground  ruins  known  as  Los 
Subterraneos.  They  are  interesting  chiefly  because  they  exhibit,  in  their 
decorations  and  construction,  the  twin  forms  of  culture  (the  upper  structures 
correspond  to  the  2d  epoch,  the  lower  to  the  1st)  characteristic  of  the  Teoti- 
huacan  ruins.  The  connecting  rooms  recall  Pompeii. 

The  Church  and  Convent  ( Iglesia  y Convento ) of  San  Ag"ustin  de  Acolman, 
in  the  Village  of  Acolman,  about  10  M.  south  of  San  Juan  (see  the  Valley 
PI.  F,  1),  can  be  reached  from  the  Pj'ramids  by  motor  car  in  about  1 hr., 
by  proceeding  (£  hr.)  to  the  plaza  at  the  little  town  of  Tepexpan  and 
following  the  Acolman  road  to  the  church.  From  Tepexpan  the  road  is  a 
narrow,  rocky  lane,  which  grows  rougher  and  rockier  as  one  proceeds.  Speed 
is  impossible,  pedestrians  are  few,  and  the  countryside  is  rather  lonely. 
While  the  church  and  the  adjoining  convent  contain  but  little  to  interest 
the  ordinary  traveller,  ecclesiologists  will  regard  it  as  a veritable  find,  since 
it  is  one  of  a fast  disappearing  group  of  old  structures  erected  by  the  Span- 
iards soon  after  the  Conquest. 

It  was  begun  in  1539  by  the  Augustin  friars  and  was  completed  in 
1560,  during  the  reign  of  the  (2d)  viceroy  Luis  de  Velasco  (1560-64).  It  is 
a decrepit  but  still  massive  affair,  much  resembling  a fortress,  in  the  form 
of  a rectangle  62  meters  long  by  17  meters  wide,  limited  by  thick  walls 
which  rise  to  a height  of  21  meters  and  terminate  in  a pylogonal  apse. 
The  nave  is  divided  by  transverse  arches  supported  by  pilasters  in  four 
spacious  rectangles  and  a square  which  is  joined  to  the  apse.  The  material 
is  the  almost  imperishable  tezontle  (p.  245). 

Both  construction  and  decorations  betray  the  fact  that  the  church  was 
erected  at  that  period  when  the  medieval  styles  in  Spain  were  just  being  in- 
fluenced by  the  new  renaissance  forms  that  were  striving  to  supplant  the 
earl}-  Roman  and  Gothic.  These  conflicting  elements  are  illustrated  in  the 
facade,  which  shows  certain  aspects  of  early  Roman  churches  side  by  side 
with  the  renaissance  modified  to  suit  the  Spanish  taste  of  that  distant 
period.  Interpreted  in  terms  of  the  plateresque  (so-named  because  of  its 
resemblance  to  silver  work)  these  classical  forms  make  this  church  one  of 
the  rarest  examples  of  its  kind  in  the  Republic. 

Above  the  entrance  is  the  shield  and  device  of  the  Augustinians ; at  the 
left  is  that  of  Castile;  at  the  right  that  of  Acolman.  Along  the  arch  above  is 
depicted  a line  of  different  fruits  — offerings  to  the  saint  by  the  simple  Indians 
of  the  parish  — while  above  this  line,  in  one  of  the  spandrels  of  the  arch, 
the  Angel  Anunciadora  conveys  the  transcendental  announcement  to  the 
Virgin  Mary,  in  the  corresponding  spandrel.  The  male  figure  in  the  left 
niche  is  San  Pedro,  that  at  the  right  San  Pablo.  The  inscription  along  the 
interior  arch  which  supports  the  ancient  choir  refers  to  the  reconstruction 
of  that  portion  of  the  church.  In  the  triangle  formed  by  the  first  archivolt, 
the  entablature  and  the  columns,  is  represented  the  scene  of  the  Annunciation. 
A bust  of  the  Virgin  is  at  the  right,  while  at  the  left  is  an  angel  holding  in 
its  hand  a ribbon  with  the  inscription:  Ave  Maria  Gratia  Plena  Dominus 
Tceum  Nude  Indians  carrying  baskets  on  their  heads  figure  in  the  dec- 
orations, along  with  the  arms  of  Spain,  lion  heads,  etc. 

Renaissance  forms  predominate  in  the  interior;  the  pillars  are  Doric, 
though  somewhat  tall  for  the  general  proportions  of  the  interior.  The  figures 
of  the  apostles,  between  the  symmetrical  columns,  are  excellent  examples 
of  Spanish  sculptures  at  the  time  of  the  renaissance.  The  2d  altar  at  the 
ri^ht,  dedicated  to  San  Agustin,  dates  from  the  erection  of  the  church  and 
consequently  is  nearly  four  hundred  years  old.  The  1st  at  the  left,  dedicated 
to  La  PurUima,  dates  from  the  same  time.  The  pictures  flanking  that  of 
San  Agustin  represent  incidents  in  the  life  of  Christ. 

The  bizarre  mural  decorations  which  flank  the  high  altar  (dedicated  to 
San  Igus'in),  portray  popes,  doctors  of  the  church,  cardinals,  bishops, 
civilians  and  whatnot.  Originally  the  walls  were  covered  with  frescoes, 
but  many  of  these  have  been  whitewashed  over.  A number  of  the  gilded 
plateresque  altars  are  now  falling  to  decay.  The  2d  at  the  left,  as  we  enter, 
contains  a picture  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe,  said  to  have  been  painted  by 
Nicolas  Rodriguez  Judrez  (comp.  p.  cl) 


TOWN  OF  TLAXCALA  U-  Route.  427 


The  custodian  of  the  church  is  usually  to  be  found  in  the  ruinous  Convento 
which  joins  the  church  at  the  right  (south).  It  perhaps  dates  from  the 
erection  of  the  church  proper.  A number  of  quaint  frescoes  may  still  be  seen 
in  the  old,  time-stained  cloister.  They  are  all  in  black  and  white  and  they 
represent  scenes  on  the  way  to  Calvary.  As  records  of  the  earliest  paintings 
of  the  Spaniards  in  Mexico  they  are  highly  valuable. 

The  return  journey  to  Tepexpan  is  made  over  the  same  road  as  the  out- 
ward trip.  From  Tepexpan  one  can  proceed  to  (18  M.)  Mexico  City,  or 
return  to  San  Juan  and  board  the  train  there.  A motor  car  for  the  trip  from 
Mexico  City  to  San  Juan  Teotihucdn , thence  to  Acolman  and  back  to  the 
city  (7-8  hours)  will  cost  from  $20  to  $24. 

A good  walker  could  leave  San  Judn  Tcotihuacdn  in  the  early  forenoon, 
compass  the  distance  to  Acolman,  inspect  the  church  and  convent,  return 
to  Tepexpan,  board  a train  there  (on  the  Fcrrocarril  Mexicano)  for  (33  kil- 
oms.)  Mexico  City,  and  reach  that  place  in  the  afternoon.  Or  reverse  the 
trip  by  taking  an  early  a.  m.  train  from  Mexico  City  to  Tepexpan,  go  thence 
to  Acolman,  return  to  Tepexpan  and  proceed  to  San  Judn  Teotihuacdn — 
where  there  are  hotel  accommodations  if  one  were  obliged  to  remain  over 
night. 

86  M.  Apizaco.  The  train  on  the  branch  line  ( Ramal  de 
Puebla)  leaves  from  the  same  station.  The  line  trends  south- 
ward across  a fairly  level  country.  Popo  and  lztaccihuatl  are 
visible  on  the  r.,  and  the  beautiful,  snow-clad  cone  of  Malintzi 
on  the  left.  Midway  between  Apizaco  and  Puebla  is  the  small 
station  of  Santa  Ana , where  passengers  bound  for  the  quaint 
town  of  Tlaxcala  board  a train  of  the  Ferrocarril  de  Tlaxcala 
(several  trains  daily,  time  1 hr.,  fare  50  c.). 

The  old  Town  of  Tlaxcala  (alt.  7,500  ft.,  pop.  3,000),  in  a small  valley 
surrounded  by  hills  once  crowned  by  the  defences  of  the  ancient  Indian 
capital,  is  but  a simulacrum  of  its  former  greatness.  At  the  time  of  the 
Conquest  it  was  the  capital  of  an  independent  oligarchy  governed  by 
several  powerful  chiefs  whose  fealty  to  the  Spaniards  made  their  con- 
quest of  Montezuma's  empire  possible.  It  was  then  said  to  contain 
upward  of  30,000  inhab.  The  most  interesting  sight  in  the  town  is  the 
weather-beaten  old  Church  of  San  Francisco  (founded  in  1521), 
approached  by  an  “exceptionally  picturesque  paved  way,  tree-shaded 
and  ascending  to  the  arch  of  the  former  monastery  entrance,  which  is 
flanked  by  a sturdy  old  bell-tower.”  The  hill-side  is  terraced,  and  the 
outer  wall  of  the  atrium  and  the  outlying  campanario  are  on  the  brink 
of  a considerable  descent.  The  venerable  interior  is  remarkable  for  its 
timbered  roof  with  beautifully  carved  old  cedar  beams  — from  the 
forests  of  Tlaxcala,  whence  came  the  lumber  used  in  constructing  the 
brigantines  employed  in  the  siege  of  the  Aztec  capital.  The  ceiling  under 
the  coro  is  a fine  example  of  artesonado- work.  The  adjacent  large  chapel 
of  the  Tercer  Orden  has  several  good  retablos  of  carved  and  gilded  wood. 
That  of  the  high  altar  is  a sturdy  example  of  the  style  (Renaissance,  or 
Plateresque)  that  preceded  the  Churrigueresque  (p.  cxxxix).  The  pulpit  on 
the  right  is  famed  as  the  first  from  which  the  gospel  was  preached  on 
this  continent.  It  is  inscribed:  il  Aqui  tubo  principio  al  Santo  Evangelio 
en  este  nuevo  mundo"  — Here  the  Holy  Evangel  had  its  beginning  in  this 
New  World.  The  pulpit  shows  every  mark  of  great  age.  Equally  inter- 
esting is  the  time-stained  font  in  which  the  four  chiefs  of  Tlaxcala,  the 
first  converts  to  Christianity,  were  baptized.  The  inscription  says:  “In 
this  font  the  four  senators  of  the  ancient  Tlaxcalan  Republic  received 
the  Catholic  faith.  The  religious  act  took  place  in  the  year  1520;  the 
minister  was  Don  Luis  Diaz,  chaplain  of  the  conquering  army,  and  the 
godfathers,  Captain  Cortes,  and  his  distinguished  officers,  Don  Pedro  de 
Alvarado,  Don  Andres  de  Tapia,  Don  Gonzalo  de  Sandoval,  and  Don 
Cristobal  de  Olid.  To  Maxicatzin  they  gave  the  name  of  Lorenzo;  to 
Xicotencatl  that  of  Vicente;  to  Tlahuexolotzin  that  of  Gonzalo;  and  to 
ZiUalpopoca  that  of  Bartolome. 

The  Capilla  de  Guadalupe  has  a fine  old  screen  of  carved  and  gilded 


428  Route  44. 


TLAXCALA  STATE 


wood.  The  retablo  of  the  old  altar  within  has  scenes  from  the  life  of  the 
Virgin,  painted  in  1669.  The  Altar  de  Dolores  dates  from  1661,  and  was 
erected  by  Diego  de  Tapia.  In  the  Council  Room  of  the  Casa  Municipal , 
facing  the  plaza,  is  a small  museum  of  pictures  and  relics  of  ancient 
Tlaxcala.  , 

The  Santuaiio  de  Ocotlan,  one  of  the  most  celebrated  shrines  in  Mexico, 
stands  on  a hill  ( Cerro  de  Ocotlan),  about  1 M.  S.-E.  of  the  plaza,  on  the 
site  of  the  palace  of  Maxicatzin,  a Tlaxcalan  prince  of  the  old  days. 
According  to  tradition  it  marks  the  spot  where,  in  the  early  years  of 
Spanish  rule,  a miraculous  spring  gushed  forth  to  reward  the  quest  of  a 
pious  Indian  at  the  time  of  a water-famine  and  the  visitation  of  a great 
small-pox  plague.  The  name  Ocotlan  (Aztec,  ocote  — pine,  and  tlan  — 
place)  is  so  called  for  the  great  pine  trees  which  once  clothed  the  hill. 
“ It  has  been  a famous  place  of  pilgrimage  for  centuries,  and  enormous 
sums  have  been  lavished  upon  the  embellishment  of  the  church.  The 
narrow  bases  of  the  towers  and  the  overhang  of  the  upper  portions  are 
an  unpleasant  feature,  giving  an  effect  of  top-heaviness.  The  interior 
was  partially  modernized  between  the  years  1852  and  1854,  at  the 
expense  of  Dona  Maria  Josef  a Zabalza ; happily  in  much  better  taste 
than  is  usual  with  such  procedures.  An  inscription  near  the  entrance 
relates  that  the  work  in  the  chancel  and  transepts  was  left  untouched  be- 
cause of  its  antiquity  and  excellence.  A notable  feature  of  this  interior 
is  the  treatment  of  the  transept  and  chancel  as  a unit,  separated  from 
the  body  of  the  ch.  by  a construction  resembling  a theatre  proscenium. 
The  effect  of  this  part  is  something  overpoweringly  magnificent,  the 
Churrigueresque  retablos  of  the  high  altar  and  the  transept  altars  lining 
the  walls  with  a superb  incrustation  of  gilded  wood-work,  while  the 
dome  is  treated  in  similarly  rich  fashion.  The  contrast  of  this  space, 
resembling  an  enormous  enchanted  grotto,  with  the  simply  treated  body 
of  the  ch.  is  something  extraordinary.  It  was  no  mean  talent,  that  of 
the  Indian  sculptor,  Francisco  Miguel,  who  devoted  25  years  to  the  exe- 
cution of  this  work,  together  with  that  in  the  camarin.  The  latter  is  a 
marvel  of  arabesque  stucco-work,  with  an  attractive  color-scheme  of 
gold  and  metallic  lustre  of  green  on  a white  ground,  with  other  brilliant 
colors  for  accent.  The.  dome  has  a blue  ground  with  a circle  of  gold  on 
scarlet.  There  is  a circle  of  polychrome  figures  of  apostles  around  a blue 
ground,  receiving  tongues  of  flame  from  the  Holy  Spirit,  symbolized  by 
a white  dove  in  the  center.  The  feet  of  these  apostles  rest  upon  a circle 
of  white- and-gold  cloud.  The  room  is  exquisitely  furnished  with  richly 
carved  estantes,  benches,  tables,  etc.  There  is  a silver  altar  with  a figure 
of  solid  gold  in  the  shrine.  The  floor  is  covered  with  a beautiful  and 
quaint  old  Mexican  tapestry,  thick  and  heavy.  The  mural  paintings  in 
oil  by  Villalobos,  representing  the  Virgin  of  Ocotlan  and  a life  of  the 
Virgin,  are  hardly  worthy  of  their  surroundings,  and  those  on  the  walls 
of  the  handsome  sacristy,  painted  in  1764  by  Magon,  the  Puebla  painter, 
are  worse  than  mediocre.”  (Sylvester  Baxter.)  The  extraordinary 
facade  of  the  Santuario,  as  well  as  the  tiled  and  floridly  ornamented 
front  of  the  Church  of  San  Jose,  suggest  that  Tlaxcala  lies  within  the 
sphere  of  the  architectural  influence  of  Puebla.  The  crown  of  the  figure 
of  the  Virgin  of  Ocotlan  is  beautifully  wrought  in  gold,  emeralds,  rubies, 
and  diamonds.  The  ceremony  of  the  coronation,  which  was  authorized 
by  a special  Papal  Bull,  occurred  May  12,  1907,  in  the  presence  of  the 
special  Papal  Delegate  and  many  archbishops  from  various  Mexican 
cities.  The  tradition  of  the  appearance  of  the  Virgin  to  the  Indian  Juan 
Diego,  in  1541,  is  much  like  that  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe,  described 
at  p.  394. 

Tlaxcala  (a  corruption  of  the  Aztec  Tlax-calldn  — Land 
of  Corn),  smallest  of  the  Mexican  states  (one  of  the  Estados  del 
Centro ),  with  a pop.  of  172,315  and  an  area  of  4,132  sqr.  kilom.; 
high  on  the  great  Central  Plateau,  covering  a territory  corre- 
sponding almost  exactly  to  that  of  the  ancient  Tlaxcalan 
Republic , is  bounded  on  the  N.,  E.  and  S.  by  the  state  of  Puebla 
and  on  the  W.  by  Mexico.  The  capital,  Tlaxcala , is  7,500  ft. 


THE  TLAXCALAN  NATION  U.  Rte.  429 


above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  is,  from  a historical  view-point, 
one  of  the  most  interesting  spots  in  the  Republic.  The  mean 
altitude  of  the  region  is  6,600  ft.,  with  the  magnificent  snow- 
capped peak  of  Malintzi  (13,690  ft.)  or  Matlacueyatl,  as  the 
culminating  point.  The  region  is  very  mountainous;  the  east- 
ern slopes  of  the  Popocatepetl  range  mark  the  W.  portion  of 
the  state,  while  to  the  E.  is  the  Penon  del  Rosario  (11,200  ft.). 
Many  minor  peaks  rise  in  pointed  grandeur;  while  skirting 
their  bases  are  fine  valleys  and  plains,  prominent  among  the 
latter  the  Llanos  de  Apam,  celebrated  for  many  maguey  plants 
and  for  pulque  fino  (p.  lxxxii).  The  Valle  de  Huamantla 
(p.  497)  is  the  finest  in  the  state.  The  climate  of  Tlaxcala  is 
cold  and  dry.  Snows  are  frequent  in  the  mountainous  region. 
The  flora  is  limited ; agriculture  is  the  chief  industry,  with 
wheat  as  the  staple  product. 

The  first  wheat  in  Mexico  was  accidentally  introduced,  it  is  believed, 
in  some  rice  brought  with  the  stores  of  the  Spanish  army,  and  was  first 

Slanted  before  1530.  From  that  humble  beginning,  the  wheat  crop  of 
fexico  has  steadily  increased,  until,  at  the  present  day,  this  cereal  finds 
congenial  surroundings  everywhere  on  the  plateaus.  The  Mexican  wheat 
is  of  the  best  quality,  and  may  be  compared  with  the  finest  foreign  grain. 
In  the  state  of  Puebla,  near  Cholula,  the  common  harvest  is  from  30  to 
40,  but  frequently  exceeds  70  to  80  for  one.  In  the  Valley  of  Mexico 
it  produces  18  or  20  fold.  The  wheat  is  threshed  in  the  primitive  manner 
of  the  ancient  Egyptians,  with  horses  to  tread  it  out,  on  a floor  of  pounded 
earth.  The  product  is  then  thrown  into  the  air  and  winnowed  out. 

Historical  Sketch.  “The  character  and  institutions  of  the  Tlaxcalan 
nation,  in  many  respects  the  most  remarkable  in  Andhuac , were  note- 
worthy. The  Tlaxcalans  belonged  to  the  same  great  family  with  the 
Aztecs.  They  came  on  the  grand  plateau  about  the  same  time  with  the 
kindred  races,  at  the  close  of  the  twelfth  century,  and  planted  them- 
selves on  the  western  borders  of  the  lake  of  Tezcuco.  Here  they  remained 
many  years,  engaged  in  the  usual  pursuits  of  a bold  and  partially  civi- 
lized people.  From  some  cause  or  other,  perhaps  their  turbulent  tem- 
per, they  incurred  the  enmity  of  surrounding  tribes.  A coalition  was 
formed  against  them;  and  a bloody  battle  was  fought  on  the  plains  of 
Poyauhtlan , in  which  the  Tlaxcalans  were  completely  victorious.  Dis- 
gusted, however,  with  their  residence  among  nations  with  whom  they 
found  so  little  favor,  the  conquering  people  resolved  to  migrate.  They 
separated  into  three  divisions,  the  largest  of  which,  taking  a southern 
course  by  the  volcan  of  Mexico,  wound  round  the  ancient  city  of  Cholula , 
and  finally  settled  in  the  district  of  country  overshadowed  by  the  Sierra  de 
Tlaxcala.  The  warm  and  fruitful  valleys,  locked  up  in  the  embraces  of 
the  rugged  brotherhood  of  mountains,  afforded  means  of  subsistence 
1 for  an  agricultural  people,  while  the  bold  eminence  of  the  sierra  pre- 
I sented  secure  positions  for  their  towns.  After  the  lapse  of  years,  the 
institutions  of  the  nation  underwent  an  important  change.  The  mon- 
archy was  divided  first  into  two,  afterwards  into  four  separate  states, 
bound  together  by  a sort  of  feudal  compact,  probably  not  very  nicelv 
defined.  . . . Thus  a chain  of  feudal  dependencies  was  established, 
which,  if  not  contrived  with  all  the  art  and  legal  refinements  of  analogous 
institutions  in  the  Old  World,  displayed  their  most  prominent  character- 
istics in  its  personal  relations,  the  obligations  of  military  service  on  the 
one  hand,  and  protection  on  the  other.  This  form  of  government,  so 
different  from  that  of  the  surrounding  nations,  subsisted  till  the  arrival  of 
i the  vSpaniards.  . . . 

“ The  various  arts  of  civilization  kept  pace  with  increasing  wealth  and 
public  prosperity.  . . . This  prosperity,  in  time,  excited  the  jealousy 
of  their  neighbors,  and  especially  of  the  opulent  state  of  Cholula.  Fre- 


430  Rte.  U-  THE  TLAXCALAN  NATION 


quent  hostilities  rose  between  them,  in  which  the  advantage  was  almost 
always  on  the  side  of  the  former.  A still  more  formidable  foe  appeared 
in  later  days  in  the  Aztecs,  who  could  ill  brook  the  independence  of  Tlax- 
cala  when  the  surrounding  nations  had  acknowledged,  one  after  another, 
their  influence  or  their  empire.  Under  the  ambitious  Axayacatl , they 
demanded  of  the  Tlaxcalans  the  same  tribute  and  obedience  rendered 
by  other  people  of  the  country.  If  it  were  refused,  the  Aztecs  would  raze 
their  cities  to  their  foundations,  and  deliver  the  land  to  their  enemies. 
To  this  imperious  summons,  the  little  republic  proudly  replied,  ‘Neither 
they  nor  their  ancestors  had  ever  paid  tribute  or  homage  to  a foreign 
power,  and  never  would  pay  it.  If  their  country  wrere  invaded  they  knew 
how  to  defend  it,  and  would  pour  out  their  blood  as  freely  in  defence  of 
their  freedom  now,  as  their  fathers  did  of  yore,  when  they  routed  the 
Aztecs  on  the  plains  of  Poyauhtlan!  ’ This  resolute  answer  brought  on 
them  the  forces  of  the  monarchy.  A pitched  battle  followed,  and  the 
sturdy  republicans  were  victorious.  From  this  period,  hostilities  be- 
tween the  two  nations  continued  with  more  or  less  activity,  but  with  un- 
sparing ferocity.  Every  captive  was  mercilessly  sacrificed.  The  children 
•were  trained  from  the  cradle  to  deadly  hatred  against  the  Mexicans; 
and,  even  in  the  brief  intervals  of  wrar,  none  of  those  inter-marriages 
took  place  between  the  people  of  the  respective  countries,  which  knit 
together  in  social  bonds  most  of  the  kindred  races  of  Anahuac. 

“ In  this  struggle  the  Tlaxcalans  received  an  important  support  in  the 
accession  of  the  Otomies,  a wild  and  war-like  race  originally  spread  over 
the  table-land  north  of  the  Mexican  Valley.  Their  courage  and  fidelity 
to  the  nation  of  their  adoption  showed  them  worthy  of  trust,  and  the 
frontier  places  were  consigned  to  their  keeping.  The  mountain  barriers 
by  which  Tlaxcala  is  encompassed  afforded  many  strong  natural  posi- 
tions for  defence  against  invasion.  The  country  was  open  toward  the 
east,  where  a valley  of  some  six  miles  in  breadth,  invited  the  approach 
of  an  enemy.  But  here  it  was  that  the  jealous  Tlaxcalans  erected  the 
formidable  rampart  which  excited  the  admiration  of  the  Spaniards  and 
which  they  manned  with  a garrison  of  Otomies.  Efforts  for  their  sub- 
jugation were  renewed  on  a greater  scale  after  the  accession  of  Monte- 
zuma. His  victorious  armies  had  spread  down  the  declivities  of  the 
Andes  to  the  distant  provinces  of  Vera  Cruz  and  Nicaragua,  and  his 
haughty  spirit  was  chafed  by  the  opposition  of  a petty  state  whose  ter- 
ritorial extent  did  not  exceed  10  leagues  in  breadth  by  15  in  length. 
He  sent  an  army  against  them  under  the  command  of  a favorite  son. 
His  troops  were  beaten,  and  his  son  slain.  The  enraged  and  mortified 
monarch  was  roused  to  still  greater  preparations.  He  enlisted  the  forces 
of  the  cities  bordering  on  his  enemy,  together  with  those  of  the  empire, 
and  with  this  formidable  army  swept  over  the  devoted  valleys  of  Tlax- 
cala. But  the  bold  mountaineers  withdrew  into  the  recesses  of  their 
hills,  and,  coolly  awaiting  their  opportunity,  rushed  like  a torrent  on 
the  invaders,  and  drove  them  back,  with  dreadful  slaughter,  from  their 
territories. 

“Such  was  the  position  of  Tlaxcala  at  the  coming  of  the  Spaniards; 
holding,  it  might  seem,  a precarious  existence  under  the  shadow  of  the 
formidable  power  which  seemed  suspended  like  an  avalanche  over  her 
head,  but  still  strong  in  her  own  resources,  stronger  in  the  indomitable 
temper  of  her  people  : with  a reputation  throughout  the  land  for  good 
faith  and  moderation  in  peace,  valor  in  war,  while  her  uncompromising 
spirit  of  independence  secured  the  respect  even  of  her  enemies.  With 
such  qualities  of  character,  and  with  an  animosity  sharpened  by  long, 
deadly  hostility  with  Mexico,  her  alliance  was  obviously  of  the  last  im- 
portance to  the  Spaniards,  in  their  present  enterprise.  It  was  not  easy 
to  secure  it.  . . .” 

Hemdn  Cortes  and  his  bold  Conquistador es  had  left  Cempoalla  August 
16,  1519,  on  their  famous  march  to  the  Aztec  capital,  but  it  was  many 
days  later  that  they  appeared  on  the  borders  of  the  Tlaxcalan  posses- 
sions. The  Tlaxcalans  had  been  made  acquainted  with  the  advance  and 
victorious  career  of  the  Christians,  the  intelligence  of  which  had  spread 
far  and  wide  over  the  plateau.  They  •were  now  much  embarrassed  by 
an  embassy,  sent  by  Cortes , demanding  a passage  through  their  terri- 


THE  TLAXCALAN  NATION  44.  Rte.  431 


tories.  A great  council  was  convened,  and  a considerable  difference  of 
opinion  prevailed  among  its  members.  At  last  the  opinions  of  an  ancient 
chief,1  Xicotencatl,  prevailed.  His  son  commanded  a powerful  army 
of  Tlaxcalan  and  Otomi  warriors  near  the  eastern  frontier.  He  was  to 
fall  with  his  force  at  once  on  the  Spaniards.  If  victorious,  the  latter 
would  then  be  in  their  power.  If  defeated,  the  senate  could  disown  the 
act  as  that  of  the  general,  not  of  the  Republic.  For  a description  of  this 
battle,  in  which  the  Spaniards  were  victorious,  see  Prescott’s  Conquest 
of  Mexico . 

From  Santa  Ana  the  train  continues  to  run  in  a southerly 
direction,  with  Malintzi  always  in  view  on  the  1.  The  stations 
are  unimportant.  116  M.  Puebla,  see  p.  508. 


1 A fine  painting,  El  Senado  de  Tlaxcala,  by  Rodrigo  Gutierrez , now 
in  the  San  Carlos  Academy  at  Mexico  City,  depicts  this  momentous 
council. 


VII.  SOUTH-WESTERN  MEXICO, 


45.  From  Mexico  City  to  Cuernavaca  (thence  to  Puente 

de  Ixtla,  Iguala,  and  Balsas) 

46.  Cuernavaca 

History  and  Character  of  the  town,  436.  — Palacio  de 
Cortes,  437. — BordaGarden,  441. — Bougainvillaea, 442. 

Excursions  from  Cuernavaca 

а.  El  Barque,  and  La  Colonia  Miraval,  447. 

б.  Church  and  Pueblo  de  Tlaltenango,  448. 

c.  El  Salto  de  San  Antonio,  449. 

d.  Church  of  Chapultepec,  and  La  Fuente,  450. 

e.  Sugar-Mill  of  Atlacomulco,  451 . 

/.  Acapacingo,  452. 

g.  Ruins  of  Tepoxtepec,  452. 

h.  Cerro  de  Xoehicalco,  and  The  Hacienda  of  Cortes,  453. 
t.  Cavern  of  Cacahuamilpa,  453. 

State  of  Morelos,  *56. 


432 

436 

447 


47.  From  (Mexico  City)  Cuernavaca  to  Puente  de 

Ixtla,  Iguala  and  Balsas 456 

48.  From  Iguala  to  Taxco 457 

Rafting  on  the  Rio  Balsas,  459.  — Chilpancingo  de  los 
Bravos,  459.  — State  of  Guerrero,  460. — Acapulco,  460. 


49.  From  Mexico  City  to  Amecameca,  Cuauhtla  and 
Puente  de  Ixtla  461 

Amecameca  and  the  Sacro  Monte,  462. 

Popocatepetl,  463.  — Iztaccihuatl,  464. 

Cuauhtla  and  the  Hot  Springs,  466. 


45.  From  Mexico  City  to  Cuernavaca  ( thence  to 
Puente  de  Ixtla , Iguala , and  Balsas). 

120  K.  (75  M.)  Cuernavaca , daily  trains  in  about  4 hrs.  — To  (113  M.) 
Puente  de  Ixtla  in  about  7 hrs.  — 148  M.  Iguala  in  9 hrs.  — 185  M.  Balsas, 
in  i2  hre.  For  fares  see  p.  xxxi.  Frequent  and  popular  excursions  to  Cuer- 
navaca at  reduced  rates  (consult  the  newspapers  or  the  rly.  folders).  Trains 
leave  from  the  Buena  Vista  Station  (PI.  E,  3)  of  the  Ferrocarriles Naciona- 
les.  The  best  views  are  to  be  had  from  the  left  side  of  the  cars. 

The  line  describes  a wide  curve  (to  the  1.)  traversing  milpas 
bordered  by  single  rows  of  tall  cypresses  or  by  lines  of  spikv 
maguey  plants.  Far  to  the  r.  is  the  celebrated  shrine  of  Guada- 
lupe, with  its  famous  well,  church,  and  hill-cemetery. 

5 K.  Santa  Julia.  Rly.  crossing.  We  approach  the  Castillo 
de  Chapultepec  (p.  379)  perched  on  the  craggy  heights  of  Grass- 
hopper Hill.  Beyond  are  the  spires  of  the  city  and  the  encir- 


MEXICO  CITY  TO  CUERNAVACA  45.  Rte.  433 


cling  brown  hills,  racing  round  like  figurines  in  a puppet  show. 
The  rly.  skirts  the  edge  of  Chapultepec  Park;  to  the  1.  is  the 
King’s  Mill  and  the  battlefield  of  Molino  del  Rey,  memorable 
for  a sanguinary  struggle  (Sept.  8,  1847)  between  the  Ameri- 
cans under  General  Worth  and  the  Mexican  defenders  of  the 
Castle.  (Comp.  p.  381.) 

The  Americans  fought  under  great  disadvantages  and  against  heavy 
odds;  finally  capturing  the  old  mill,  then  considered  the  strategical  key 
to  the  castle  and  the  city  beyond.  General  U.  S.  Grant  was  the  first  to 
enter  the  mill  after  its  capture.  The  monument  visible  in  the  open  field 
hard  by  was  erected  to  commemorate  this  struggle.  The  long,  low 
buildings  to  the  left  are  government  ammunition  factories.  Some  huge 
pumping  stations  (city  water)  are  also  located  here. 

Just  before  reaching  13  K.  Tacubaya  (p.  417)  we  get  a 
splendid  view  of  the  castle  and  the  hill,  practically  unob- 
structed by  trees.  To  the  r.  is  the  ohservatorio  (p.  417)  with 
its  squat  domes  dominating  the  surrounding  country.  The 
train  crosses  parched  fields  planted  with  long,  symmetrical 
rows  of  aloes. 

Lines  of  country  Indians  trot  by  laden  with  long  ladders, 
crates  of  pottery,  vegetables,  chickens  and  whatnot  for  the 
city  markets.  Certain  of  the  haciendas  resemble  old  fortresses, 
with  huge  environing  walls  surmounted  by  conning- towers,  — 
relics  of  the  time  not  long  ago  when  all  the  suburbs  of  the  capi- 
tal were  unsafe,  and  when  bandidos  made  of  this  region  their 
constant  abiding-place.  The  leaven  of  progress  working  in  the 
minds  of  the  hacendados  expresses  itself  in  the  small  plantation 
cars  which  cross  and  re-cross  the  plantations,  and  in  the 
crowds  of  sarape-clad  peones  at  work  in  the  fields.  — 17  K. 
Mixcoac  (p.  416),  a quaint  old  garden-like  suburb  (tram-cars 
from  Mex.  City  at  frequent  intervals,  time  30  min.,  fare  15  c.), 
with  pretty  plazas , pink,  blue  and  white  houses,  and  several 
crumbling  old  churches,  — tottering  relics  of  Colonial  days. 
The  town  is  celebrated  for  its  fine  orchards,  the  one-time  mon- 
astery gardens  of  the  early  ecclesiastics  who  loved  the  simple 
life,  the  fruitfulness  of  the  earth,  and  the  warm  sunshine  of  this 
chosen  retreat.  19  K.  Miranda.  The  line  dips  into  a small 
valley.  Nopal  cacti,  with  green,  knob-like  tunas  growing 
around  the  edges  of  the  spiny  pads,  and  tall  organ,  or  candela- 
bra cacti  form  the  fences  about  the  homes  of  the  natives.  22  K. 
Olivar.  The  mission-like  building  far  to  the  1.  is  the  San  Angel 
Inn  (p.  416).  The  train  climbs  steadily,  and  the  wonderful 
panorama  of  the  Valley  in  retrospect  unfolds  itself.  The  rails 
are  laid  in  a succession  of  reverse  curves,  and  they  wind  in  and 
out  through  apple  and  peach  orchards  where  a wealth  of  pink 
geraniums  climb  and  bloom  in  sunny  security  on  the  white- 
washed walls.  Groups  of  half-nude  Indian  children  chase  the 
cars,  begging  with  one  hand,  and  offering  flowers  and  fruit  for 
sale  with  the  other.  29  K.  Contreras.  31  K.  Eslava.  Pines 
take  the  place  of  agaves,  and  soon  the  train  crosses  great 


434  Rte.  45.  MEXICO  CITY  TO  CUERNAVACA 


patches  of  volcanic  scoria,  lichen  covered;  the  outpourings  of 
Ajusco  Mt.  in  ages  past.  The  view  from  the  1.  as  we  advance 
up  the  Mt.  side  is  magnificent.  The  beautiful  Vale  of  Andhuac 
— according  to  Bayard  Taylor,  second  only  in  beauty  to  the 
Vale  of  Cashmere  — spreads  out  far  below  like  a gigantic  relief 
map  with  Tlalpan  and  the  Pedregal  in  the  foreground ; Coyo- 
acan  (the  first  American  home  of  Hernan  Cortes)  and  San 
Angel  in  a line  beyond;  Tacubaya  and  Chapultepec  to  the  1.; 
the  City  of  Mexico,  with  its  tiled  domes  and  towers  glistening 
in  the  middle  distance,  Lake  Texcoco  and  many  minor  lakelets 
far  to  the  r.,  and  Guadalupe  and  a background  of  bare  brown 
mountains  on  the  extreme  left.  To  the  r.,  not  far  from  the 
foothills,  on  the  edge  of  a grove  of  trees,  are  the  brown  walls 
of  Churubusco,  scene  of  a desperate  combat,  during  the  Ameri- 
can invasion  of  1847,  for  the  possession  of  Mexico  City.  The 
old  Indian  town  of  Xochimilco,  enshrined  in  its  olive  gardens, 
the  one-time  favorite  summer  home  of  the  Aztec  Tzins,  resem- 
bles a microscopic  toy  town  from  this  great  height.  The  en- 
gineering difficulties  of  this  rly.  were  great,  and  a retrospective 
view  shows  line  after  line  of  rails  zig-zagging  down  the  moun- 
tain to  the  distant  valley.  The  superb,  snow-clad  peak  of 
Popocatepetl , and  the  long  white  ridge  of  Iztaccihuatl  are  in 
full  view,  and  the  train  seems  almost  on  a level  with  their 
hoary  summits.  The  air  carries  a frosty  tang  in  its  thin,  whin- 
ing voice.  The  train  traverses  a comparatively  level  stretch 
of  Mt.  top.  We  cross  and  re-cross  the  old  post-road  between 
Cuernavaca  and  the  capital,  passing  patches  of  burned  timber- 
land  and  groves  of  evergreens. 

47  K.  A jusco  (Aztec  = source  of  the  streams)  with  many 
burros  laden  with  freshly  cut  timber  from  the  nearby  woods. 
Much  charcoal  {carbon  de  lend)1  comes  from  hereabout.  The 
charcoal  burners  are  clannish  Indians  recognizable  by  their 
sooty  faces  and  their  reticence.  Stretching  away  from  the 
station  are  miles  of  pine  lands  marked  by  glades  and  groves. 
Meagre  little  streams,  sometimes  showing  thin  ice  along  their 
edges,  trail  across  the  open,  and  a hurtling  wind  whistles  al- 
most constantly  through  the  trees.  The  old  crater  wall  is  near 
here.  The  train  crosses  a country  strewn  with  fantastic-looking 
rocks  showing  evidence  of  violent  volcanic  activity.  Many  of 
the  low  hills  are  mere  masses  of  fused  boulders,  resembling 
great  black  segments  attracted  to  a magnetic  centre.  The  con- 
stant cutting  of  wood  for  the  City  market  is  thinning  the  dense 
forests  of  pine  which  once  covered  the  land  hereabout.  58  K. 


1 Charcoal  ( carbon  de  lefia)  to  the  value  of  about  seventeen  millions  of 
pesos  is  consumed  annually  in  the  Federal  District;  the  consumption  in 
Mexico  City  is  about  $15,000  a day.  The  burners  ( carboneros ) bring  it  in 
from  all  quarters,  and  offer  it  for  sale  in  crates  ( huacales ),  or  bags.  The 
charcoal  made  from  oak  timber  is  said  to  be  the  best.  The  shops  where 
it  is  sold  are  called  expendios  or  carbonerias. 


MEXICO  CITY  TO  CUERNAVACA  45.  Rte.  435 


Panes.  62  K.  LaCima  (the  summit),  9,895  ft.;  the  highest 
■ point  on  the  line;  about  \ M.  higher  than  the  Valley  of  Mexico 
and  nearly  2 M.  above  Broadway  or  the  Strand.  The  land- 
! scape  is  marked  by  a succession  of  small  hills  and  grassy  val- 
I leys  dotted  with  shaggy  oaks,  pines,  and  woodcutters'  huts 
made  of  green  saplings  or  rly.  ties  placed  perpendicularly.  Hard 
! by  the  station  is  La  Cruz  delMarques,  a huge  stone  cross  marking 
the  territory  granted  by  the  Crown  to  Cortes , as  Marquis  of 
the  Valley.  Cortes  and  his  men  passed  near  here  in  1521  on 
their  march  from  Cuernavaca  to  Tenochtitlan.  67  K.  El  Toro. 

75  K.  Las  Tres  Marias  (three  Marys),  so  called  from  three 
pine-clad  hills  in  the  vicinity.  The  southern  wall  of  the  crater 
is  soon  crossed,  and  the  train  begins  its  journey  downward 
toward  the  tierra  caliente.  — 92  K.  El  Parque;  point  of  de- 
parture for  the  ruins  (near  by)  of  Tepoxtepec  (p.  452).  The  view 
(from  the  r.)  is  very  fine,  and  Cuernavaca  is  visible  in  the  far 
distance.  Thousands  of  square  leagues  of  smiling  valley-land, 
hemmed  in  on  three  sides  by  sun-warmed  hills,  brown  near 
their  base  and  blue  where  they  cut  the  sky-line,  wheel  into 
view  as  the  line  zig-zags  along  the  terraces  cut  into  the  Mt. 
side.  From  the  pine  belt  we  look  down  upon  a luxuriant  vege- 
tation from  amid  which  rise  the  feathery  plumes  of  tall  palms. 
Before  one  can  mark  the  difference,  the  train  has  passed  from 
the  tierra  fria  to  the  tierra  templada,  and  the  thin,  whistling  air 
of  the  Mt.  tops  is  soon  replaced  by  the  warm,  sweet  air  of  sum- 
mer. The  effects  of  the  southern  exposure  upon  the  vegetation 
growing  on  the  mountain  side  is  very  marked.  The  train 
traverses  patches  of  jungle  and  old  church-gardens  alive  with 
bird  notes,  with  the  chirping  of  happy  insects,  and  redolent  of 
tropical  fruits  and  flowers.  Brilliant  orchids  are  seen  in  some 
of  the  trees,  and  through  the  open  car  windows  are  wafted 
vagrant  rose  leaves  and  the  sweet,  fugitive,  penetrating  odor 
of  Spanish  Jessamine.  108  K.  Alarcon.  Ill  K.  Ramon.  The 
spires  and  domes  of  Cuernavaca , like  heliographic  signal  towers, 
ire  visible  far  below  in  the  valley.  The  sun-lit  Mt.  slopes  are 
crossed  by  long,  finger-like  streams  of  lava  that  at  one  time 
plunged  down  from  Ajusco's  crater.  Quaint  Indian  pueblos, 
ruinous  churches,  giant  palms,  flamboyant,  fig  and  orchard 
fruit-trees,  and  broad  plantations  of  sugar-cane  are  features 
of  the  sun-bathed  landscape.  The  view  far  away  toward  the 
S.-W.,  past  Cuernavaca  and  to  the  rift  in  the  blue  hills,  beyond 
which  lie  Acapulco  and  the  Pacific  Ocean,  is  very  beguiling. 
A more  attractive  summer  landscape  could  scarcely  be  imag- 
ined. The  train  reaches  the  valley  (of  Morelos ) level,  sweeps 
grandly  to  the  r.,  runs  for  some  distance  across  a luxuriant 
country  swooning  beneath  waves  of  heat  and  sentinelled  by 
the  snow-capped  volcanoes,  and  soon  halts  at  Cuernavaca . (See 
p.  436.)  For  a continuation  of  the  journey  to  Balsas,  via  Pu- 
ente de  Ixtla,  Iguala,  and  Balsas,  see  Rte.  47,  p.  456. 


436  Route  4 £ . 


CUERNAVACA 


Hotels , etc. 


t 46.  Cuernavaca. 

Arrival.  The  town  lies  a mile  or  more  S.-W.  of  the  rly.  station  (visible  in 
the  distance)  and  is  linked  thereto  by  a tramline  whose  cars  meet  trains 
and  carry  passengers  to  the  Plaza  Juarez  and  the  hotels.  Cabs  and  autos 
are  available;  to  the  hotel  SI.  By  the  hr.  SI. 50.  No  charge  for  hand-luggage. 
Trunks  50c. 

By  Automobile  from  Mexico  City  to  Cuernavaca.  Time  about  2 hrs. 

Popular  and  convenient.  Cars  leave  certain  of  the  Mexico  City  hotels  at 
stated  intervals  (consult  the  hotel  manager).  Fares  according  to  the  number 
in  the  party.  Cars  can  be  hired  for  the  trip  at  reasonable  rates.  The  scenery 
is  described  in  Rte.  45,  p.  433  et  seq. 

The  road  (being  constantly  improved)  leads  out  over  the  Tlalpam  Cause- 
way, past  the  Country  Club  (p.  407)  and  toward  Xochimilco  (visible  at  the 
far  left,  at  12  M.,  where  the  highway  bends  to  the  right  and  enters  the  hills). 
At  14  M.  we  begin  the  ascent  to  the  cool  highlands.  Splendid  views.  Many 
Indian  pack  trains  plod  over  the  cobbled  (and  volcanic  detritus)  road  bound 
for,  or  returning  from,  the  capital.  At  18  M.  Topenejo  (2,600  meters)  the 
road  slopes  into  a valley  then  climbs  to  a region  of  somber  pines.  The  rly. 
line  comes  into  view  and  is  crossed  at  21  M.,  and  thence  to  Cuernavaca  it 
parallels  the  highway  — which  crosses  and  recrosses  it.  At  26  M.  La  Cima 
(the  summit)  we  emerge  on  the  divide  at  the  highest  (2,950  meters)  point. 
The  road  now  winds  across  the  summit  of  the  ridge  to  31  M.  Tres  Marlas 
(2,750  meters)  then  descends  the  mt.  side  (entrancing  views)  to  the  Indian 
town  of  (34  M.)  Huitzilac.  The  descent  (la  bajada ) here  is  considerably 
steeper  (in  some  places  about  1 in  10)  than  on  the  other  side  of  the  range. 
At  42  M.  Cuernavaca  a gendarme  stationed  at  the  Cortes  monument  copies 
the  number  of  the  car  for  the  local  police  record.  Garage  in  connection  with 
the  Hotel  Morelos. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  Of  the  several  hotels,  all  of  which  are  near  the 
Plaza  Judrez,  the  quaint,  historic  Morelos,  with  its  large,  cool,  clean  rooms 
(fine  views),  and  modern  comforts  (American  management  and  cooking), 
is  perhaps  the  most  popular  among  foreigners.  It  is  the  rendezvous  for 
tourists  and  residents  of  the  capital,  and  during  the  winter  season,  and  at 
week  ends,  lodgings  should  (if  possible)  be  spoken  for  in  advance.  The  rates 
are  reasonable,  the  food  good,  and  the  patio  unusually  attractive.  The 
hotel  overlooks  the  pleasant  little  Jardin  Morelos , and  is  flanked  by  the 
plaza  (music  in  the  evenings).  F.  T.  Weesner,  proprietor.  The  views  from 
the  wide,  flat  roof  ( azotea ) are  among  the  finest  in  the  Republic.  — Other 
hotels  are  the  Hotel  Madrid , facing  the  plaza,  Hotel  Bella  Vista,  etc. 

The  Hotel  Morelos  runs  frequent  auto  excursions  from  Mexico  City  to 
Cuernavaca  at  reasonable  rates.  Cars  start  from  the  chief  hotels,  where 
information  relating  to  time  of  departure,  etc.,  can  be  obtained.  The  More- 
los management  also  plans  auto  trips  to  Cacahuamilpa  and  other  points. 

Cuernavaca  (Sp.  = cow’s  horn)  on  a long  ridge  shaped  some- 
thing like  a horn;  chief  town  in  the  District  of  Cuernavaca, , 
capital  of  the  state  of  Morelos  with  7,000  inhab.,  justly  re- 
nowned as  a health  resort  and  much  visited  by  Mexicans 
and  foreigners  alike,  lies  in  a highly  picturesque  region  well 
watered  by  the  Tepeyete  River. 

Cuernavaca  is  a Castilian  corruption  of  the  Nahuatl  word  Cuauhnahuac 
— “near  the  woods” — a name  given  it  by  its  Tlahuiea  founders.  The 
Spaniards,  catching  at  sound  rather  than  sense,  re-named  this  — along 
w ith  many  Mexican  towns.  The  situation  of  the  town  on  a narrow’  ridge 
aided  them  in  their  efforts  to  find  a Spanish  word  that  wrould  take  the 
place  of  the  (to  them)  unpronounceable  one  supplied  by  the  Tlahuicas. 
Though  at  an  elevation  of  4,500  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  it  has  a 
southern  exposure  so  sheltered  by  the  mountain  barrier  on  the  N.  that 
its  climate  is  as  soft  and  genial  as  that  of  a much  lower  region.  It  is  a 
thoroughly  delightful  open-air  sanitarium,  and  the  health  of  the  people, 
thanks  to  the  benign  climate,  bears  out  the  reputation  of  the  towm  as 
a health  resort.  The  magical  charm  of  the  place  is  further  enhanced  by 


CUERNAVACA 


46.  Route.  437 


its  beautiful  views,  some  of  which  are  the  finest  in  Mexico.  They  are 
to  be  seen  to  great  advantage  from  the  miradores,  or  conning-towers, 
which  rise  above  the  flat  roofs  of  some  of  the  houses.  The  town  has  about 
it  a venerable  quaintness  that  is  very  attractive.  The  weight  of  centu- 
ries rests  upon  its  ancient  buildings,  which  are  hoary  with  age  and  seem 
tottering  to  their  fall.  Their  wood-work  is  worm-eaten  ( agusanado ), 
their  red  brick  or  tiled  floors  are  worn  thin  by  generations  of  feet,  their 
great,  copper  and  iron  studded  Moorish  doors  appear  ready  to  fall  from 
their  pivots  or  their  primitive  hinges,  and  their  walls  are  stained  a hue 
which  only  centuries  can  impart.  The  streets  are  narrow,  cobble-paved, 
tortuous  and  clean.  Some  are  flanked  by  fruit-laden  mango  trees  or 
flowering  oleanders,  and  from  a distance  the  town  appears  to  repose 
in  the  midst  of  a great  shaded  and  flower-embowered  garden.  It  is  a 
town  of  fountains  and  running  water.  Cold  mountain  streams  rush  and 
gurgle  beneath  some  of  the  stone-flagged  sidewalks,  and  as  one  walks 
along  there  comes  to  the  ear  a sound  of  rushing  water:  if  this  be  not  con- 
fined in  a central  sluice-way,  one  has  but  to  lift  one  of  the  worn  flag3 
with  its  rusty,  iron-imbedded  ring,  to  see  a miniature  torrent  dashing 
along  in  quest  of  a lower  level  to  “wind  somewhere  safe  to  sea.”  A part 
of  the  town  water  supply  is  obtained  from  the  fine  subterranean  springs 
at  El  Parque  (p.  447),  whence  it  is  drawn  off  in  masonry  conduits  to  a 
splendid  old  acueducto,  which  it  crosses  before  entering  the  upper  reaches 
of  the  town.  (The  El  Parque  water  has  a decided  laxitive  tendency  on 
certain  constitutions,  and  to  nullify  this,  the  hotels  which  use  it,  serve 
distilled  water  ( agua  destilada ) — which  the  guest  should  be  sure  to  ask 
for.)  Some  of  the  drinking  water  comes  from  a newlv  discovered  (1907) 
spring  in  the  hills  back  of  Miraval  Colony  (p.  448).  This  colony,  with  its 
club-house  and  attractive  cottages,  is  the  most  popular  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. Tourists  are  usually  interested  in  a wide-spreading  tree  — said 
to  be  the  only  one  of  its  kind  in  the  region  — that  grows  in  the  front 
yard  of  a native  dwelling  on  the  Calle  de  San  Pablo.  The  Mexicans  call 
it  the  Arbol  de  Dinamita  — dynamite  tree  — (also  Arbol  de  Habas  de 
San  Ignacio  — beans  of  St.  Ignatius),  because  when  mature,  the  oddly- 
shaped  pods  (if  kept  in  a warm  place)  burst  with  considerable  force 
(dangerous)  and  a loud  report,  and  scatter  the  flat,  round  seeds  to  a 
surprising  distance.  The  pods  are  on  sale  (8  c.  each)  by  the  owner,  and 
they  make  bizarre  curios.  The  tree  is  perhaps  Strychnos  nux-vomica , 
from  the  seeds  of  which  the  deadly  strychnine  ( Strychnos  Ignaiii)  is  ex- 
tracted. — Seeds  known  as  Tears  of  Job  ( lagrimas  de  Job),  referred  to 
at  p.  59  (and  brilliant  red  beans)  are  offered  for  sale  at  the  hotels  and 
on  the  streets.  The  innocent-appearing  youngsters  who  peddle  them 
have  the  commercial  instinct  shrewdly  developed,  and  bargaining  is 
necessary.  A long  string  for  which  50  c.  or  more  is  asked  can  generally 
be  bought  for  25  c. 

Historical  Summary.  Cuauhnahuac  was  the  ancient  capital  of  the 
Tlahuicas  and  the  most  considerable  place,  for  wealth  and  population, 
in  this  part  of  the  country.  It  was  tribiitary  to  the  Aztecs,  and  a gar- 
rison of  this  nation  was  quartered  within  its  walls.  The  place  was  as- 
saulted and  captured  by  Cortes  and  his  men  in  April,  1521,  and  Charles 
V was  so  pleased  with  his  success  that  he  included  Cuernavaca  in  the 
thirty  cities  which  he  gave  to  the  Conqueror.  It  remained  for  many  years 
a part  of  his  estate,  and  was  finally  willed  by  him  to  his  direct  descendant, 
the  Duke  of  Monteleone . After  the  return  of  Cortes  (1530)  from  Spain, 
he  took  up  his  residence  at  Coyoacan,  but  later  came  to  Cuernavaca 
where  “he  erected  a stately  palace,  and  henceforth  made  the  city  his 
favorite  residence.  He  superintended  his  vast  estates,  and  devoted  him- 
self to  bringing  them  into  proper  cultivation.  He  introduced  the  sugar- 
cane from  Cuba  and  erected  sugar-mills  and  other  works  for  the  manu- 
facture of  the  raw  material.”  — The  region  contains  many  carved  stone 
relics  of  the  early  inhabitants.  In  the  suburbs  of  the  town  are  rocks 
carved  with  huge  lizards  and  covered  with  petroglyphs. 

The  Palacio  de  Cortes  (PI.  C,  4),  seat  of  the  state  legis- 
lature and  of  the  local  government  offices,  a castellated  edifice 
which  faces  the  Plaza  de  Congreso , on  a shelf  of  land  which 


438  Route  46. 


CUERNAVACA 


Palacio  de 


slopes  away  sharply  in  the  rear  and  terminates  m a deepish, 
verdure-choked  barranca , is  one  of  the  oldest  buildings  in  the 
Repub.  if  not  in  America.  It  was  begun  by  Hernan  Cortes  in 
1530,  and  a half-obliterated  inscription,  in  old  Spanish,  on  the 
third  arch  of  the  Sala  de  Reception  advises  that  it  was  com- 
pleted (evidently  refers  to  renovations)  in  1767.  A pretty 
garden  stretches  in  front  of  the  palacio , the  facade  of  which  is 
defaced  by  several  lines  of  new  tin  guttering  (a  bit  of  unwar- 
ranted desecration)  and  by  repeated  “ renovations  ” in  doubt- 
ful taste.  The  conical  clock- tower  on  the  N.-W.  comer  is  a 
recent  addition,  as  is  also  the  meteorological  observatory  on  the 
roof.  A winding  stair  ascends  to  the  E«  and  W.  loggias  on  the 
second  floor.  Opening  on  to  the  W.  loggia  is  the  Sala  de  Recep- 
tion (Audience  hall),  a large  arched  room  newly  decorated  in  a 
medley  of  tints  — the  national  colors  predominating.  Por- 
traits of  military  heroes  ( Galeana , Morelos , Allende,  Josef  a 
Ortiz  de  Dominguez , Miguel  Hidalgo , Juarez , Zaragoza,  Guer- 
rero, Mina,  Matamoros,  and  Bravo)  and  a handsome  painting 
of  President  Porfirio  Diaz  adorn  the  room,  which  is  flanked  on 
two  sides  by  railed-in  benches.  The  desk  of  the  executive 
stands  at  the  N.  end. 

Leaving  the  audience  hall  by  the  main  entrance  we  turn  to 
the  1.  and  proceed  through  the  building  to  the  rear  loggia ; on 
the  right  of  the  pasillo  is  a room  devoted  to  the  government 
archives;  above  the  door  is  the  inscription,  in  Spanish:  “Gen- 
eral Jose  Maria  Morelos , illustrious  commander,  national  hero 
and  sincere  defender  of  freedom,  who  spilled  his  blood  on  the 
gallows  and  thus  fructified  the  holy  cause  of  Mexican  Liberty, 
was  imprisoned  here  the  6th,  7th,  and  8th,  of  Nov.  1815.  Gen- 
eral of  Division  Jose  Ceballos,  dedicates  this  remembrance  to 
him  MDCCCLXXXI.”  — A small  caracol  stair,  at  the  extreme 
end  of  the  corridor,  winds  to  the  roof.  Immediately  to  the  1. 
of  the  exit  is  a low  wall  over  which  one  gets  a peep  into  an 
interesting  patio  — the  city  prison  — in  the  older  part  of  the 
building.  A fountain  plays  in  the  centre  of  this  well-like  court, 
and  cobblers,  tortilla-venders,  and  hawkers  of  wooden  platters, 
hats,  sweet-meats,  cigarettes  and  whatnot,  cater  to  the  wants 
of  the  prison  and  of  the  garrison.  In  the  opposite  wall  of  this 
cavernous  patio  is  a pair  of  ancient  doorways,  solidly  walled-in, 
and  the  grim  face  of  the  stones  leads  one  to  speculate  on  what 
lies  beyond ; whether  the  bones  of  one  or  more  victims  of  the 
rude  and  not  always  wily  conqueror,  or  merely  those  of  some 
unfortunate,  unable  to  harmonize  his  religious  scruples  with 
the  tenets  of  the  alleged  Holy  Inquisition.  We  round  the 
highly  tinted  observatory  building  and  proceed  to  the  N.  end 
of  the  azotea,  whence  there  spreads  away  a view  of  unusual 
charm.  The  topographical  irregularities  of  the  surrounding 
countrv,  and  the  sharp  contrast  between  the  tropical,  flower- 
decked,  palm-dotted  valley  and  the  cold  snows  of  the  vol- 


Cortes . 


CUERNAVACA 


Ifi.  Route.  439 


canoes  which  start  up  at  the  horizon,  are  noteworthy.  In  one 
grand  sweep  the  eye  embraces  sections  of  the  frigid,  the  tem- 
perate, and  the  torrid  zones.  Directly  back  of  the  palacio  the 
land  falls  sharply  away,  forming  a gorge  filled  with  vegetation 
and  enriched  by  a rivulet.  Then  it  spreads  abroad  in  a suc- 

I cession  of  rising  hills  which  blend  finally  with  the  range  in 
which  Popocatepetl , lztaccihuatl  and  Ajusco  are  the  crowning 
points. 

Unless  it  be  in  the  rainy  season  (June-Sept.)  the  val- 
ley sleeps  in  a changeless  sea  of  warm  sunshine,  and  a more 
I peaceful  spot  could  scarcely  be  found  on  this  side  of  Hesperi- 
!i  des.  The  red-tiled,  time-stained  roofs  of  the  tinted  houses  nest- 
ling  amid  green,  flower-bespangled  foliage,  and  with  patios  that 
resemble  those  of  Pompeii,  — except  that  tall  palms  rise  from 
many  of  them,  and  a wealth  of  magenta  Bougainvillaea  hides 
many  of  them  from  view,  — remind  one  of  certain  views  in 
Sicily  and  along  the  Ionian  Sea.  Country  villas  dot  the  hill- 
sides, just  as  those  of  Naples  cling  to  the  skirts  of  Vesuvius; 
the  same  Spanish-Roman  bridges  are  here,  hoary  with  age 
and  idealized  by  the  brilliant  flowers  that  glorify  their  massive 
sides;  here,  also,  are  the  old  Roman  highways,  Iberianized, 
built  by  Cortes  to  facilitate  the  Conquest  of  the  Valley  of  Mex- 
ico ; and  but  for  the  rich  vegetation  which  clothes  the  hills, 
they  would  all  but  pass  for  those  of  Tuscany  or  Greece.  Over 
these  hills  and  adown  the  roads  come  and  go  groups  of  patient 
donkeys  and  plodding  Indians,  — the  latter  descendants  of  the 
once  lordly  Tlahuicas  (p.  43),  now  a sad-visaged,  taciturn  lot, 
humbled  to  the  dust  by  the  conquering  invaders.  Lees  of  a 
fast  vanishing  race,  these  Indians  may  often  be  seen  threading 
the  Cuernavaca  streets,  or  squatting  in  the  busy  mercado , be- 
fore little  piles  of  crude  pottery,  from  the  sale  of  which  they 
eke  out  a precarious  existence.  They  keep  well  to  themselves ; 
dwelling  in  the  quiet  country,  rarely  mixing  or  intermarrying 
with  the  Spaniards  or  Mexicans,  and  apparently  preferring 
the  customs  and  traditions  of  their  own  race.  To  the  far  left, 
as  we  face  the  volcanes , are  three  humps  on  a long  ridge,  Las 
tres  Marias  (the  three  Marys),  which  the  train  skirts  in  its 
descent  to  the  Morelos  valley.  To  the  left  of  these  hills,  near  a 
dip  on  the  sky-line,  is  Huichilac , once  a post-station  on  the  old 
diligence  road  between  Acapulco  and  the  Mexican  capital. 
The  clump  of  trees  near  the  rly.  station  conceals  El  Parque 
(mentioned  at  p.  447).  Far  to  the  1.,  almost  in  line  with  the 
clock  tower  of  the  palacio , is  the  locally  celebrated  shrine  (p. 
448)  of  Our  Lady  of  Tlaltenango.  Beyond,  and  toward  the  hills, 
is  the  Buena  Vista  fabrica  (p.  449).  The  bright  green  field  far 
to  the  r.,  near  the  base  of  the  hills,  is  a portion  of  the  old  Cor- 
tes estate,  with  the  sugar-mill  of  Atlacomulco  (p.  451);  be- 
tween it  and  the  town,  slightly  to  the  r.,  stands  Acapacingo 
(p.  452),  the  one-time  summer  bungalow  of  the  Archduke  Max - 


440  Route  Ifi. 


CUERNAVACA 


Mercado. 


imilian.  The  ruins  of  Xochiealco  (p.  453)  lie  far  beyond  the 
hills  to  the  1.  of  the  Cathedral.  The  old  Chapultepec  Clmrch 
(p.  450)  flanks  the  road  which  leads  country-ward  past  the  N. 
corner  of  the  patacio.  The  pine-clad  ranges  of  Zempoalla  and 
Aj  usco  cut  the  sky-line  on  the  W.  and  N. 

From  the  front  of  the  palace  a commanding  view  is  had 
of  the  square,  the  business  section,  and  all  that  part  of  the 
town  W.  of  the  Plaza  de  Congreso.  In  the  foreground  rise  the 
churches,  massive  and  bulky;  to  the  r.  of  the  Cathedral  is  the 
Borda  Garden  (p.  441),  and  beyond  this  a line  of  green  hills. 
The  view  is  beguiling.  The  low,  Spanish-Moorish  houses  with 
slit,  lancet-like  windows  and  iron  bars;  the  narrow,  cobble- 
paved  streets  twisting  and  turning  through  the  somnolent 
town;  the  plaza  dotted  with  strange-looking  Indians,  fruits, 
country  products  and  picturesque  Mexicans,  all  form  mo- 
saic-like bits  in  a wonderfully  rich  and  attractive  setting. 
The  knowledge  that  the  Great  Conqueror  himself  perchance 
often  stood  by  the  same  battlemented  wall,  and  drank  in  the 
details  of  the  graceful  picture,  imparts  romance  and  empha- 
sizes the  belief  that  perhaps  nowhere  in  Mexico  is  the  pano- 
rama more  entrancing.  And  one’s  enjoyment  and  serenity  of 
mind  are  indubitably  heightened  by  the  knowledge  that  no 
greedy  government  minion  limits  one’s  time  or  demands  out- 
rageous entrance  fees  to  the  palacio ; that  no  voiceful  cicerones 
are  permitted  to  harass  the  quiet-loving  spectator,  and  that  no 
covetous,  tip-soliciting  blatherskites  lurk  near  the  exit. 

On  emerging  from  the  palace,  we  step  to  the  end  surmounted  by  the 
clock  tower  and  enjoy  the  pretty  vista  visible  from  the  top  of  the  street 
which  leads  down  past  the  building  and  out  toward  the  country.  It  is 
one  of  the  finest  in  the  town  and  should  not  be  missed.  The  deep  gully 
over  which  the  eye  travels  is  dotted  with  the  peaceful  homes  of  the 
natives;  the  crest  of  the  hill  is  crowned  by  a number  of  fine,  lofty  trees 
and  the  whole  is  idealized  by  the  snow-capped  peaks  which  mark  the 
sky-line.  In  front  of  the  palacw  is  a statue  to  the  memory  of  Carlos 
Pacheco.  The  bronzed  fence  which  encloses  the  base  resembles  a rpw  of 
huge  upright  tomahawks,  but  it  does  not  detract  from  the  maimed, 
pathetic  figure  which  stands  above.  The  inscription  (in  Spanish)  at  the 
foot  of  the  figure  reminds  one  that  Carlos  Pacheco  (a  valiant  soldier) 
“ was  the  second  Constitutional  Governor  of  the  State  of  Morelos,  and 
that  General  Jesus  H.  Preciado  (Governor  in  1S94)  erected  this  statue 
to  him.”  The  one  on  the  left  relates  that  ‘‘He  defended  his  country 
during  the  French  invasion,  and  was  wounded  in  the  assault  on  Pueblo, 
April  2,  1867.”  On  the  r.  tablet  we  read  that  ‘‘He  reorganized  the 
public  administration  of  the  state,  and  established  the  railway  between 
Mexico  City  and  Cuauhtla .”  The  inscription  in  the  rear  says,  ‘‘He  was 
General  of  a Division,  Minister  of  War,  Governor  of  the  Federal  District. 
Minister  of  Public  Works.  Constitutional  Governor  of  the  State  of 
Chihuahua,  and  was  born  Oct.  16,  1839,  and  died  Sept.  15,  1891.”  The 
lines  on  the  base  recall  that  the  monument  was  completed  and  erected 
Sept.  15,  1895,  and  that  the  then  governor  of  the  state  was  Citizen 
Manuel  Alarcon  — for  whom  the  garden  in  front  is  named. 

The  Mercado  (market),  near  the  Ialesia  Catolica , is  an 
attractive  and  busy  spot  where  many  fine  fruits,  vegetables, 
straw-hats  (made  in  Leon , p.  124),  Indian  pottery,  and  a host 


Borda  Garden.  CUERNAVACA  46.  Route.  441 

of  articles  of  native  manufacture  (bargaining  necessary),  can 
be  bought.  On  market-days  the  place  is  thronged  with  booths, 
and  many  stands  are  erected  on  the  contiguous  streets. 

The  Borda  Garden  ( Jardin  de  la  Borda),  opposite  the 
Cathedral,  5 min.  walk  from  the  Morelos  hotel  (PL  B,  4),  is 
the  chief  show-place  of  the  town.  This  one-time  magnificent 
formal  garden  in  the  Italian  style  — the  work  of  a French- 
man, Joseph  le  Borde,  who  came  to  Mexico  in  1716,  and  who  by 
energy  and  fortunate  speculation  in  mines  at  Zacatecas , 
Tlalpujahua  and  Taxco  amassed  a fortune  estimated  at  forty 
million  pesos  — cost  upward  of  a million  pesos , and  was  es- 
tablished as  a sort  of  huen  retiro , or  pleasant  retreat,  to  satisfy 
the  owner’s  taste  for  horticulture.  After  his  death  it  passed  to 
alien  hands,  since  when  it  has  suffered  from  lack  of  care. 

The  garden  spreads  over  a large  sloping  area  with  a west- 
erly exposure,  and  commands  wide  prospects  over  the  glorious 
landscape;  from  the  great  extinct  volcano  of  Ajusco  that 
towers  just  above  the  city  to  the  northward,  around  the  far 
reaching  vistas  of  the  ample  Morelos  valley  that  descends 
gently  southward  into  the  hot-lands.  It  is  still  very  beautiful 
with  its  terraces,  arcades,  pergolas,  arbors,  basins  and  foun- 
tains. One  of  the  latter  is  a very  gem  of  its  simple  kind.  It 
has  an  exquisite  charm  of  classic  elegance,  an  effect  of  poetic 
antiquity  in  its  dark  and  moss-ground  stone,  the  sunlight 
shifting  down  upon  it  through  the  rich  and  glossy  leafage  of 
the  great  mango  trees  that  shade  it.  In  addition  to  the  vast 
sums  spent  in  creating  this  jardin , Le  Borde , who  was  noted 
for  generosity,  spent  an  additional  million  pesos  in  building 
and  decorating  the  splendid  Taxco  Church  (described  at  p.  457), 
beside  endowing  the  Cathedral  at  Mexico  City,  and  other 
churches  with  princely  gifts. 


To  reach  the  garden  we  proceed  to  the  rear  of  the  Hotel  Morelos , cross 
the  narrow  Avenida  Primera  Calle  Galeana  which  runs  directly  back 
of  it,  enter  the  equally  narrow  and  cobble-paved  Segunda  Calle  de  Rayon , 
and  follow  it  up  the  hill  to  its  intersection  with  the  Avenida  Morelos. 
The  large  building  on  the  left  is  the  Theatre  Porfirio  Diaz,  which  houses 
also  the  Public  Library.  Diagonally  across  the  street  to  the  1.  is  the 
Church  of  Guadalupe  (p.  446),  and  next  door  thereto  is  a low  house 
(No.  5)  with  a wide  entrance  and  a tablet  bearing  the  inscription  Jardin 
de  La  Borda,  Octubre  4,  1888.  We  enter  a small  court  and  follow  the 
passage  that  leads  into  the  second  patio  at  the  rear.  The  large  iron  gate 
is  closed,  but  nearby  is  a painted  hand  pointing  to  the  r.  We  pass 
through  the  opening  marked  Entrada,  turn  sharply  to  the  l.  and  pene- 
trate to  the  wide  cloister-like  corridor,  facing  the  garden.  All  the  rooms 
to  the  r.  of  this  corridor  were  the  apartments  of  the  ill-fated  Maximilian 
and  his  Empress  during  their  several  visits  to  Cuernavaca.  The  entrance 
fee  is  paid  here.  Children  the  same  price  as  adults.  There  is  no  time 
limit  on  one’s  stay  in  the  garden,  but  a second  entrance  must  be  accom- 
panied by  a second  payment.  A line  of  coffee  trees  usually  laden  with 
brilliant  red  berries  flanks  the  corridor  to  the  end  of  the  house,  and 
through  the  thick  underbrush  one  catches  glimpses  of  the  pretty  garden 
and  its  numerous  fountains.  Considerable  coffee  is  harvested  in  the 
garden,  and  the  berries  may  be  seen  drying  on  mats  spread  to  the  sun. 


442  Route  46.  CUERNAVACA  Bougainvillaea. 

The  mangoes,  which  Le  Borde  brought  to  a high  state  of  perfection,  are 
noted  for  their  fine  flavor. 

At  the  corner  of  the  house,  we  turn  sharply  to  the  r.  and  follow  the 
cement  pavement  to  the  N.  wall  of  the  garden.  To  the  r.  of  this  walk  is 
a small,  interior  garden,  with  the  old  church  at  its  outer  edge.  To  the  1. 
are  dense  masses  of  shrubbery  interspersed  with  banana,  coffee,  and  tall 
mango  trees  heavy  with  ripening  fruit.  A short  walk  brings  us  to  the 
lateral  wall,  and  by  following  this  down  to  the  1.  we  soon  reach  the  foot 
of  the  garden  and  a small  mirador,  or  conning  tower;  whence  a splendid 
view  of  the  country  is  had.  The  name-scribbling  mania  is  much  in 
evidence  on  the  pillars  of  this  mirador.  The  land  drops  sharply  away 
from  the  base  of  the  wall,  terminating  in  a deep  barranca,  and  from  this 
lofty  quadrangle,  which  reminds  the  traveller  of  some  of  the  miradores 
of  the  forts  of  British  India,  one  gets  a fairly  correct  estimate  of  the 
dimensions  of  the  garden,  as  well  as  an  interesting  glimpse  of  the  tropical 
vegetation  growing  in  the  depths  of  the  contiguous  gorge.  At  the 
southern  end  of  this  wall  is  another  tower,  reached  by  a broad  pavement 
parallel  with  the  back  wall.  From  this  second  coign  of  vantage,  the  eye 
travels  across  the  deep  gulch  over  which  the  invading  Spaniards  crawled 
on  trees  before  they  captured  the  town,  and  to  a fine  of  blue  hills  which 
cuts  the  southern  horizon  miles  away.  A quaint  Indian  church  ( San 
Antonio ) crowns  the  crest  of  the  opposite  hill,  and  in  the  depths  of  the 
barranca  is  a time-stained  stone  viaduct  (a  relic  of  the  Spanish  invasion), 
over  which  come  Indians  laden  with  crude  pottery  from  the  hill-top 
village  of  San  Antonio  (p.  449).  Rows  of  brilliant  flores  delanochebuena  im- 

f>art  color  to  the  hillside,  and  thick  clumps  of  bananas  are  features  in  the 
andscape.  — Instead  of  following  the  south  wall  back  to  the  entrance, 
we  turn  to  the  left  and  thread  one  of  the  numerous  paths  that  zig-zag 
across  the  garden.  A short  walk  along  any  one  of  these  brings  us  to  the 
central  lakelet  (the  chief  feature),  in  an  artificial  stone  basin,  500  ft. 
long  by  40  wide,  dotted  with  islets  containing  banana  trees,  magueyes, 
coffee,  and  many  beautiful  flowering  shrubs.  Snow  geese  and  iridescent 
ducks  stand  on  these  fairy-like  spots  and  preen  their  feathers  or  sleep 
with  one  foot  drawn  up  and  heads  tucked  beneath  their  wings.  The 
murmur  of  running  water  fills  the  air,  and  a delightful  sense  of  restful- 
ness broods  over  the  spot.  Between  the  lake  and  the  house  (higher  up) 
the  garden  is  terraced,  and  stone  pillars  surmounted  by  busts  or  jar- 
dinibres  of  flowers  stand  amid  the  shrubbery.  At  each  end  of  the  lake 
are  attractive  bathing-pavilions  to  which  the  Empress  Carlota  and  the 
ladies  of  her  court  were  wont  to  come  on  moon-lit  nights,  when  a swim 
in  the  tepid  waters,  under  the  velvet,  star  flecked  sky,  must  have  been 
in  the  nature  of  an  enchantment.  The  lake  and  the  several  fountains  are 
fed  by  streams  which  course  down  from  the  upper  reaches  of  the  garden, 
through  cemented  sluices. 

Despite  its  unkempt  appearance,  the  enclosure  shows  many  traces 
of  former  beauty.  It  must  have  been  delightful  when  in  its  prime  — 
certainly  fitted  to  be  the  favorite  resort  of  the  imperious  Maximilian 
and  his  ambitious  Empress.  The  well-groomed,  pleasure-loving  padres, 
into  whose  hands  the  garden  passed  at  Le  Borde' s death,  must  have  found 
it  peculiarly  to  their  liking.  It  was  manifestly  Le  Borde' s intention  to 
further  enhance  the  value  and  beauty  of  his  buen  retiro  by  making  it 
a tropical  hortus,  for  within  itssheltering  walls,  warmed  by  a sempiternal 
sun  and  protected  from  the  rude  mountain  breezes  there  grew  — and 
still  grow  — many  of  the  ten  thousand  species  of  plants  known  to  exist 
in  Slexico.  Mangoes  were  the  owner’s  favorite  fruit,  and  during  his  life, 
the  spot  was  known  locally  as  Le  Borde' s Mango  Garden.  Here  the 
Bougainvillaea 1 thrives  luxuriantly  and  climbs  to  the  topmost  point  of  the 


1 Bougalnvillsa,  a small  genus  of  climbing  shrubs  of  the  four  o’clock 
family  ( Nyctaginacecp ),  having  the  numerous  flowers  almost  concealed 
by  large  membranous  colored  bracts,  widely  cultivated  as  a hot -house  or 
conservatory  plant,  grows  wild  and  in  great  profusion  in  Cuernavaca, 
and  forms  one  of  the  floral  glories  of  the  place.  It  perhaps  owes  its  intro- 
duction into  Europe,  whence  it  found  its  way  later  to  America,  to_the 
French  soldier  and  navigator  Luis  Antoine  de  Bougainville  (b.  1729, 


Bor  da  Garden . 


CUERNAVACA 


46.  Route . 443 


highest  trees  to  flaunt  its  beauty  wantonly  in  the  face  of  the  sun.  A 
horde  of  white  roses,  of  convolvuli,  marguerites,  jasmine,  heliotrope, 
and  a wealth  of  riotous  tropical  snrubs  and  flowers  lignt  for  existence 
with  tall  mango  trees,  bamboo,  coffee,  banana,  and  other  shrubs,  and  a 
tangled  mass  of  vines  and  creepers.  Curious  among  the  latter  is  the 
Pina-anona  (Bromeliaceas) , a native  of  the  tierra  caliente,  which  produces 
an  edible  fruit  resembling  the  pineapple,  and  which  is  one  of  the  most 
noteworthy  climbing  plants  in  the  garden. 

The  leaves  of  this  many-fingered  creeper  are  a vivid  green  and  are 
pierced  by  elongated  slits.  It  is  a sturdy  and  persistent  climber,  throwing 
strong,  rattan-like  cords  about  the  tree  or  along  the  wall  it  proposes  to 
mount.  Seen  in  the  upper  branches  of  a tree  it  is  easily  mistaken  for 
one  of  the  Orchidae,  but  an  inspection  will  reveal  the  long  feelers  grasp- 
ing the  trunk  as  it  ascends.  The  Jalap  ( Ipomea  purga),  an  offshoot  of 
the  family  Convolvulaceas,  thrives  here,  albeit  its  home  is  nearer  to  the 
tierra  caliente..  In  suggestive  proximity  to  the  Jalap  plant  is  the  Castor 
Bean  ( Palma  Christi),  which  here  attains  the  dignity  of  a tree,  and  which 
has  supplanted  Jalap  as  a medicine  as  effectually  as  the  automobile  has 
distanced  the  bicycle  as  a medium  of  speed.  Among  the  many  trop- 
ical and  sub-tropical  trees  are  specimens  of  the  chico-zapote  ( Achras 
sapota ) — the  brown  fruit  of  which  resembles  a potato  and  tastes 
like  maple  syrup  . the  guava,  or  Spanish  guavaba  ( Psydium  pyriferum) ; 
the  chirimoya  or  custard-apple  ( Anona  Iripctala );  the  melon  zapote, 
or  papaya  ( Carica  papaya ),  whose  leaves  possess  the  curious  proper- 
ties referred  to  at  p.  548;  mamey  or  mummy-apple  ( Lucuma  Bomplani ); 
fig  ( Ficus  carico );  sweet-lime  (Citrus  limmeta):  the  orange,  lemon,  date 
and  whatnot.  The  ahuacate,  or  butter-nut  (Persea  gratissima),  is  one 
of  the  most  popular  of  the  Mexican  fruits  ; it  often  takes  the  place  of 
butter,  and  of  it  the  natives  make  a delectable  salad.  Sailors  to  tropic 
climes  know  this  product  as  “Midshipman’s  butter.”  Several  fine  spec- 
imens of  the  giant  Ahuehuete,  or  Mex.  cypress,  — brothers  to  the  splen- 
did specimens  of  Taxodium  distichum  in  the  forest  of  Chapultepeo 
Castle,  at  Mexico  City,  — are  to  be  seen  here,  and  they  are  noteworthy 
not  onlv  for  their  great  size  and  age,  but  also  for  the  trailing  Spanish 
moss  (Tillandsia  asenoides ),  and  the  brilliant  orchids  which  usually 
cling  to  them.  < The  red  blooms  of  the  hibiscus  sabdarifa  (Malvaceas) 
are  much  in  evidence  here,  and  the  natives  use  them  in  the  preparation 
of  a febrifuge  drink.  Another  red  flower  used  medicinally  is  the  beauti- 
ful Flor  de  Noche  Buena , or  Christmas-Eve  flower  (Euphorbia  pulcher - 
rima).  Australians  and  travellers  from  the  Far  East  will  recognize  the 
granadita,  or  Chinese  pomegranate  (Passiflora  ccerulea),  which  produces 
a kind  of  passion-flower  with  an  edible  fruit  (delicious  when  eaten  with 
sugar  and  sherry-wine).  The  Mexican  magnolia  (M agnoliaceas) , called 
by  the  Spaniards  flor  de  corazon,  or  flower  of  the  heart,  and  by  the  Aztecs 
yoloxochitl,  is  one  of  the  most  gorgeous  and  fragrant  flowers  in  the  garden. 
The  pepper-trees  (Schinus  molle  Terbintaceas ) are  known  locally  as  the 
arbol  de  Peru  (Peruvian  tree),  and  they  furnish  a gum  and  a medicine. 

Shaded  walks,  many  of  them  covered  with  arbors  formed  of  inter- 
twined rose-bushes,  wind  through  this  ambrosial  garden,  and  the  rip- 
pling, whimpering  sound  of  running  water  is  constantly  heard.  The 
conning  towers  at  the  angles  of  the  walls  are  delightful  spots  in  which 
to  rest  and  read  and  dream  of  the  time  when  the  mail-clad  conquistadores 
fought  with  the  Indian  owners  for  possession  of  the  town,  or  when  this 


d.  1814)  who  followed  Captain  Cook  on  his  voyage  around  the  world 
and  discovered  several  hitherto  unknown  islands  in  the  South  Pacific 
Ocean,  among  them  Bougainville  Islands,  mayhap  the  original  home 
of  the  shrub.  The  color  of  the  bracts  varies  with  the  locality;  ranging 
from  a pure  white,  in  California,  to  a lovely  crimson  and  a deep  magenta 
verging  on  to  purple  in  Mexico.  Travellers  familiar  with  British  India 
will  remember  the  gorgeous  masses  of  this  bracteose  shrub  which  almost 
envelop  the  rly.  stations  along  the  North  Bengal  Railway  The  plant 
is  a hardy  climber,  and  delights  to  display  its  striking  beauty  along  the 
topmost  ridge  of  the  tallest  houses,  or  the  highest  branches  of  giant  trees 


444  Route  46.  CUERNAVACA  Cathedral. 

garden  rang  with  the  happy  voices  of  the  children  of  the  man  whose  love 
of  the  beautiful  brought  it  into  being. 

The  Cathedral  (PL  B,  4),  originally  the  Church  of  San 
Francisco,  and  known  as  La  Parroquia  until  the  establishment 
of  the  diocese  in  1891 ; one  of  the  oldest  and  quaintest  churches 
in  the  Repub.,  was  founded  June  2,  1529,  at  the  instigation  of 
Hernan  Cortes , by  certain  brothers  of  the  Franciscan  Order; 
prominent  among  them  Fray  Juan  Torribio , known  as  Moto- 
linia.  For  many  years  it  was  the  most  important  Franciscan 
temple  in  the  New  World,  and  to  the  lovers  of  old  cathedrals 
and  the  memories  which  brood  over  them  it  is  unusually  at- 
tractive. History  does  not  mention  the  date  of  its  completion, 
albeit  it  does  say  that  the  foundations  were  allowed  to  settle 
for  ten  years  before  the  side  walls  were  built  up  from  them. 
“ It  is  a typical  example  of  the  austere  Early  Franciscan  Style 
(comp.  p.  cxxix)  with  its  modicum  of  adornment,  its  battle- 
ments, and  its  exceptionally  low  dome,  that  evidently  was  con- 
structed solely  with  a view  to  interior  effect.”  It  stands  on  a 
somewhat  abrupt  slope  overlooking  the  lower  part  of  the 
town,  and  extends  clear  across  one  side  of  a large,  walled-in 
space  which  once  formed  the  Franciscan  Monastery  garden: 
a part  of  this  monastery,  which  formerly  adjoined  the  ch.,  is 
now  the  Bishop’s  Palace  — el  arzobispado.  Time  was  when  the 
garden  was  noted  for  its  fine  olive-trees;  it  is  now  a dusty, 
jejune  space,  sadly  neglected,  and  occupying,  with  the  ch.  and 
its  dependencies,  an  entire  square.  The  main  entrance  faces 
the  Primera  Calle  de  Hidalgo , with  a side  entrance  on  the 
Avenida  Morelos , opposite  the  Borda  Garden.  From  the  main 
gateway  one  gets  the  best  view  of  the  massive  structure,  gray 
and  solemn,  with  its  dependent  chapels  and  the  half-ruined 
tombs  let  into  the  outer  walls.  Most  of  these  tombs  date  from 
about  1850:  some  are  wantonly  neglected;  others  have  been 
opened  and  their  contents  removed,  leaving  gaping  hollows 
exposed.  A desire  to  decipher  the  old  epitaphs  is  promptly 
overcome  by  the  filth  which  is  permitted  to  accumulate  at  the 
base  of  the  walls.  Many  stone  slabs  with  obliterated  names 
lie  scattered  about  the  yard,  and  to  enter  the  ch.  one  must 
walk  over  the  graves  which  honeycomb  the  atrium. 

As  one  approaches  the  building  across  the  yard,  a good  view  is  had 
of  the  immense  flying  buttresses  which,  used  as  a constructive  expedient 
by  the  Spanish  builders,  impart  such  an  air  of  solidity  to  it.  The  chap- 
trels  and  the  bold  arches  which  connect  the  chapel,  at  the  r..  to  the  main 
ch.,  are  fine  examples  of  early  architecture.  Note  the  wide-spreading 
fig-tree  to  the  left  of  the  entrance,  and  the  skull  and  cross-bones  which 
crown  the  pointed  arch  above  the  huge,  boss-studded  doors.  These  are 
swung  on  pivots  let  into  the  floor  below  and  into  a soffit  of  the  cross- 
beam above,  and  have  smaller  doors  cut  into  the  large  ones.  The  iron 
nails,  some  with  ornamented  heads,  reveal  the  influence  of  Mahomme- 
dan  Spain.  (These  same  nails,  with  decorative  door-knockers,  are  con- 
stantly to  be  found  on  Mexican  ch.  doors  and  on  those  of  old  Spanish 
houses.  The  workmanship  of  the  knockers  is  often  elaborate.) 


Cathedral. 


CUERNAVACA 


46.  Route.  445 


The  Cruciform  Interior  is  notable  for  the  remarkable  length  of  the 
single  nave,  the  effect  of  which  is  increased  by  the  unbroken  barrel- 
arched  vaulting:  the  magnificent  proportions  are  striking.  The  pre- 
dominating note  of  the  new  and  restless  decoration  is  white  and  gold, 
and  this  compares  somewhat  irritatingly  with  the  original  time-stained 
pilasters.  Four  large  altars,  each  supported  by  four  massive  Ionic  pillars, 
are  let  into  the  sides  of  the  nave,  and  their  apparent  newness  is  out  of 
harmony  with  the  old  walls.  The  twelve  massive  concrete,  marbleized 
columns  which  support  the  Altar  Mayor  impart  a bizarre  and  somewhat 
top-heavy  effect  to  it.  The  most  conspicuous  feature  of  this  is  the  life- 
size  figure  oi  the  Virgin  surrounded  by  figurines  and  by  numerous  silver 
and  brass  candlesticks  holding  yellow  wax  candles;  the  left  transept 
contains  a curious  gilt  coffin  and  a reclining  figure  of  Christ  with  realis- 
tic bandages  and  a face  expressing  agony.  The  large  mural  painting 
(evidently  inspired  by  the  apocalypse)  on  the  E.  wall  of  the  right  tran- 
sept is  fantastic  in  conception.  Almost  filling  this  transept  is  an  elab- 
orate white  and  gold  altar  surmounted  by  a female  figure  holding  aloft 
a blue  wreath  with  the  words  — Ave  Gratia  Plena.  The  central  figure,  in 
a glass  case,  is  a life-size  statue  of  the  Virgin  of  Bethlehem.  To  the 
r.  of  this  transept  is  the  almost  deserted  Sacristy  with  a huge  wood  figure 
of  Christ  on  the  Cross,  characterized  by  all  the  sanguineous  and  appall- 
ing details  which  appeal  so  strongly  to  the  illiterate.  The  next  room, 
the  old  refectory,  is  hung  with  some  ancient  pictures  of  no  merit.  From 
this  room  we  pass  into  a cloister-like  garden  surrounded  by  open  cor- 
ridors; the  one-time,  flower-embowered  retreat  of  the  Franciscan  Bro- 
thers. Retracing  our  steps  we  enter  the  nave,  which  is  paved  to  repre- 
sent aisles,  with  a central  line  of  crudely-made  sun-baked  bricks  of 
a type  used  by  the  Romans  to  construct  the  Coliseum,  and  which  the 
traveller  will  see  frequently  in  the  older  structures  of  India  and  China, 
and  in  the  ruined  edifices  of  Persia  and  Arabia.  Flanking  the  centre  are 
hand-hewn  boards  secured  to  the  beams  by  flat-headed  wrought  Spanish 
nails.  The  timbers  are  like  those  used  in  the  old  Spanish  galleons,  and 
it  is  easy  to  believe  that  they  might  have  formed  a part  of  the  clumsy 
vessels,  which  brought  the  first  Franciscans  to  the  New  World.  Every 
plank  is  a sounding  board,  and  when  one  treads  them  the  footfalls  re- 
verberate through  the  high-vaulted  room.  A bold  arch  springs  quite 
across  the  room  at  the  end  of  the  nave  opposite  the  high  altar,  and  sup- 
ports the  coro  ; an  immense  space  occupied  by  a shrinking  little  organ : 
beneath  is  a doorway  leading  out  to  a covered  cloister-like  promenade. 
To  the  1.  of  this  exit  is  a small  niche  with  a curious  little  figure  of  Mon- 
tezuma. Many  household  articles,  bequeathed  by  departed  devotees, 
are  features  of  the  interior  of  the  Cathedral ; which  imparts  the  impres- 
sion of  a more  or  less  gloomy  wine-cellar  of  unusual  proportions,  deco- 
rated in  all  the  colors  of  the  rainbow.  Cracked  mirrors  in  gilt  frames, 
tawdry  vases  filled  with  waxen  and  paper  flowers,  statuettes,  rings  for 
the  fingers  of  the  Virgin,  quaint  miniatures,  candlesticks  and  whatnot 
fill  almost  every  niche.  The  confessionals  which  stand  near  the  altars 
bear  the  marks  of  centuries,  and  look  ready  to  fall  by  their  own  weight. 
But  though  illy  kept  and  indifferent  in  its  decorations,  this  old  Cathedral 
is  still  a sturdy  reminder  of  the  great  days  which  followed  the  Conquest. 
Its  battlemented  walls  — more  like  those  of  a fortress  than  of  a church 
— have  no  doubt  looked  down  upon  many  a singular  gathering  of  mailed 
warriors,  cowled  monks,  shaven-pated  friars  and  haughty  Spanish  Dons. 
Could  its  high-springing,  sound-echoing  vault  throw  back  some  of  the 
many  confessions  and  invocations  to  which  it  has  listened,  it  could,  may- 
hap, tell  strange,  and  perchance,  thrilling  stories  of  the  harsh  days  of 
conquest  and  of  iron-handed  but  lion-hearted  Spanish  soldiery.  Many 
a pensive  nun,  with  clasped  hands  and  downcast  eves,  has  perhaps  paced 
the  great  garden  now  shorn  of  its  olive  groves,  and  manv  an  undecipher- 
able romance  sleeps  in  the  crumbling  tombs.  The  old  structure  takes  on 
additional  interest  when  one  reflects  that  history  was  made  here  25  years 
before  Shakespeare  was  born,  and  that  mass  was  said  on  the  site  nearly 
100  years  before  the  Pilgrim  Fathers  sighted  Plymouth  Rock.  If  the 
inanimate  stones  could  feel,  they  would  surely  lament  their  departed 
glory,  and  the  heroic  days  of  the  Invasion. 


446  Route  46. 


CUERNAVACA 


Churches. 


The  Tower,1  strikingly  graceful  in  form  despite  the  clumsy  marring  of 
its  upper  portion  by  the  recent  “improvement,”  was  rebuilt  in  1721.  It 
contains  a clock  presented  to  Heman  Cories  by  the  Emperor  Charles  V 
when  the  latter  made  him  the  proprietor  of  the  princely  domain  that 
includes  this  entire  valley.  The  great  weights  of  this  clock,  which  still 
runs,  swing  almost  to  the  ground,  within  the  tower  wall,  and  are  wound 
up  at  intervals  by  a mechanism  at  the  top.  The  upper  structure  has  been 
toppled  to  the  ground  more  than  once  by  earthquakes,  and  the  present 
belfry  is  modern.  The  tower  should  be  ascended  for  the  sake  of  the 
view,  which  is  very  fine.  The  tiny  chapel  at  the  r.  wing  of  the  ch.,  with 
its  small  buttresses,  quaint  gargoyles,  and  crumbling  belfry,  is  attractive. 

The  Chapel  of  the  Tercer  Orden  de  San  Francisco,  in  the  S.-W.  corner 
of  the  Cathedral  yard,  was  built  by  the  order  of  Cortes  and  is  as  old  as 
the  Cathedral.  “The  side  portal,  with  its  half  dome,  is  a notable  feature. 
The  crude  ornament  of  the  elaborate  facade  — its  execution  manifestly 
left  to  the  free  hands  of  Indian  artisans  — strongly  suggests  in  its  bar- 
baric quality  the  perpetuation  of  Aztec  traditions.  Very  curious  is  the 
way  in  which  the  ornament  of  the  facade  is  carried  into  the  base  of  the 
tower.”  Note  the  quaint  worm-eaten  doors  (true  vermiculated  work), 
mediaeval  in  appearance,  swung  on  huge  bolts  fitted  into  sockets,  and 
studded  with  hand-wrought  Spanish  nails.  The  chapel  is  cruciform,  and 
the  high  altar  contains  a magnificent  Churrigueresque  reredo  covered  with 
gold  leaf.  To  the  r.  of  the  entrance  is  a curious  old  painting  of  Christ 
carrying  the  cross  — evidently  one  of  a series  of  Stations  of  the  Cross. 

To  the  1.  of  the  entrance  to  the  garden,  at  the  foot  of  the  walk  that 
leads  past  a line  of  tombs  let  into  the  street  ( Calle  Hidalgo)  wall,  is  a 
chapel  with  a well  executed  figure  of  the  Mater  Dolorosa.  The  buttresses 
of  the  outer  walls  are  hoary  with  age.  A line  of  oval  windows  with 
quatre-foil  adornments  admit  light  into  the  chapel.  On  a certain  day 
of  each  year  a somewhat  curious  service,  that  of  blessing  the  animals, 
is  enacted  in  the  ch.  yard.  Cows,  burros,  horses,  dogs,  pigs,  and  a host 
of  animals,  birds,  and  whatnot  are  brought  hither  to  receive  the  priestly 
blessing  and  to  be  sprinkled  with  holv  water,  — an  alleged  talisman 
against  disease  and  disaster  for  the  coming  year. 

The  Church  of  Nuestra  Seflora  de  Guadalupe  (PI.  B,  4),  erected  by 
Le  Borde's  son,  — at  whose  death  the  vast  inheritance  fell  to  the  clergy,  — 
adjoins  the  Borda  Garden  on  the  N.,  and  wras  used  by  the  Borda  family 
as  a chapel.  Maximilian  and  the  Empress  Carlota  also  worshipped  here; 
entering  and  leaving  the  ch.  through  the  side  doors  which  open  into  the 
garden.  Time  has  not  dealt  generously  with  this  structure.  The  towers 
have  fallen  long  since,  — toppled  from  their  place  by  earthquakes,  — and 
one  has  been  replaced  by  a clock  with  the  date  of  1887.  Wasp-nests 
cling  to  the  crumbling  facade,  many  generations  of  plants  have  left 
their  dried  and  rustling  remains  in  the  angles,  and  the  massive  carved 
and  nail-studded  door  looks  as  if  it  were  made  of  the  timbers  of  the  first 
ship  that  reached  Mexican  shores.  Four  tolerably  well  carved  santos 
with  half-obliterated  features  look  down  from  the  facade,  and,  in  niches 
formed  for  them,  are  four  female  figures  representing  the  seasons.  The 
ch.  is  without  an  atrium,  and  is  shaped  like  a Latin  cross  with  clipped 
transepts.  The  nave  is  floored  with  worm-eaten  planks  studded  with 
flat-headed  wrought  Spanish-nails,  and  flanked  by  quaint  Spanish  wood 


1 Among  the  many  worthy  friars  who  followed  the  Great  Captain  to 
New  Spain  were  some  with  the  commercial  idea  strongly  developed. 
Their  particular  line  of  ecclesiastical  “ graft  ” was  church  building.  Where 
contributions  could  not  be  wrung  from  the  simple  and  credulous  Indians 
by  force,  other  and  more  subtle  methods  were  employed.  One  of  these  — 
perchance  the  prototype  of  our  present  day  “church  sociable”  — was 
the  “ unfinished  church.”  Albeit  gratuitous  Indian  labor  could  erect  a 
colossal  Cathedral  within  a few  decades,  the  finishing  touches  on  one  of 
the  towers  often  required  centuries,  and  ostensibly  baffled  the  skill  of 
the  astutest  architects,  notwithstanding  the  zealous  and  indefatigable 
efforts  of  the  acquisitive  padres  to  collect  the  needful.  The  fact  that 
the  apex  of  the  tower  of  this  church  was  completed  in  1882,  3£  centuries 
after  the  foundation  stones  were  laid,  is  significant. 


Excursions. 


CUERNAVACA 


Jfi.  Route.  447 


benches  of  undoubted  antiquity.  The  large  painting,  near  the  entrance, 
of  the  Virgin  receiving  the  crown,  does  not  altogether  lack  sentiment, 
but  it  is  a copy  of  one  by  a more  skilful  workman.  Note  the  tinsel 
offerings  pinned  by  devotees  to  the  bottom  of  the  canvas.  Above  the 
Altar  Mayor , supported  by  four  massive  pillars  at  the  end  of  the  nave, 
are  three  cherubim  holding  a flowing  scroll  on  which  is  Non  Fecit 
Taliter  Omni  Natione  (comp.  p.  398).  In  the  centre  of  the  altar  is  a 
picture  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe , patroness  of  the  ch.  In  a corner  at 
the  right  of  the  tabernacle  stands  a curious  old  wood  wheel  of  bells,  like 
a colonial  spinning  wheel,  with  a row  of  40  small  bells  set  in  the  rim; 
when  it  is  turned,  the  effect  is  that  of  a set  of  sleigh-bells  in  motion: 
the  object  no  doubt  being  to  represent  the  music  of  a celestial  choir.  The 
small  rooms  to  the  r.  and  1.  of  the  high  altar  are  filled  with  maimed  saints 
rendered  useless  during  years  of  service.  A large  picture  of  the  Trinity 
adorns  the  1.  transept,  and  one  of  the  Virgin  of  Bethlehem  hangs  in  the  r. 
transept  (painter  unknown).  Long  streamers  in  the  national  colors 
pend  from  the  high  cupola,  whose  windows,  in  the  absence  of  a clerestory, 
admit  light.  In  a wood  frame  hanging  against  the  wall  to  the  r.  of  the 
entrance  is  a proclamation  of  Pope  Leo  XIII,  in  which  he  “grants  to 
the  faithful  adherents  of  the  Church  of  Nuestra  Sefiora  de  Guadalupe,  in 
the  Episcopal  city  of  Cuernavaca,  freedom  from  the  tortures  of  Purgatory 
for  a period  of  ten  years.”  The  ch.  is  the  chosen  shrine  of  the  many 
Indians  who  dwrell  in  the  neighborhood. 

The  Capilla  de  Guadalupe  (PI.  B,  2),  in  the  Plaza  de  Cortes,  at  the 
junction  (top  of  the  town)  of  the  Primera  Calle  de  Matamoros  and  the 
Ave.  Morelos,  is  an  Oriental  sort  of  kiosk  or  chapel  enclosing  a polychrome 
figure  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe.  Tradition  relates  that  a son  of  Ht  rnan 
Cortes  is  buried  here.  A half  obliterated  inscription  relates  that  it  was 
erected  in  1538,  which  is  doubtful.  To  the  r.  is  a ch.  in  course  of  erection. 
The  Iglesia  de  los  Tepetates  (PI.  C,  3),  on  the  crest  of  the  hill  at  the  top 
of  the  la  Calle  del  General  Ortega,  is  interesting  only  for  its  time-stained 
exterior,  with  its  still  stanch  buttresses  and  immensely  thick  -walls. 
The  wheel  of  bells  in  the  interior  is  a replica  of  that  at  the  Guadalupe  ch. 
The  paintings  of  persons  cured  by  the  special  intervention  of  the  Virgin 
are  on  a par  with  those  at  Tlaltenango  (p.  448).  The  Iglesia  Catolica 
Mexicana  (PI.  C,  3),  at  the  junction  of  the  la  Callejon  de  Degollado  and 
the  3a  Ave.  de  Guerrero,  is  uninteresting. 

Excursions.  Many  pleasant  excursions  are  possible  from 
Cuernavaca,  and  an  unusual  number  of  attractive  spots  are 
within  easy  walking  distance.  Passable  auto  roads  lead 
country  ward  to  various  points.  A pleasant  ride  is  to  Cuautla , 
described  at  p.  406.  The  most  popular  one  day  excursion  is  to 
the  locally  celebrated  Cacahuamilpa  Caverns  described  in 
detail  at  p.  454.  The  manager  of  the  Hotel  Morelos  will  arrange 
for  autos,  lunches,  etc.  In  hiring  burros  it  is  advisable  to  have 
the  driver  ( arriero ) come  along,  otherwise  these  sleepy  and 
contumacious  beasts  may  refuse  to  andar  (walk).  The  bright 
boys  who  usually  hang  about  the  hotel  and  offer  to  serve  as 
guide  are  cheaper  and  just  as  efficient  as  men.  Long  distance 
excursions  can  be  made  cheaper  by  a party  of  three  or  four  — 
who  can  share  the  cost. 


a.  To  El  Parque  (PI.  D,  2),  source  of  much  of  the  water  which  courses 
through  the  town;  on  foot  in  15  min.  The  park  lies  within  £-  M.  of  the 
rly.  station,  on  the  near  side.  We  proceed  to  the  top  of  the  town,  pass- 
ing the  Correo  and  the  Morelos  baths,  bear  to  the  r.  and  head  for  the  rly. 
station.  Near  the  fine  old  acueduclo  is  the  public  laundry  ( lavanderia ) 
where  many  lavanderas  are  usually  at  work  ruining  the  linen  of  the  towns- 
people. We  pass  beneath  a second  aqueduct,  climb  a hill  contiguous  to 


448  Route  46.  CUERNAVACA  Tlaltenango. 

the  spot  where  lies  the  Amatitlan  or  “stone  of  victory  ” (an  Indian  relic), 
then  pass  under  the  lee  of  a ruined  chapel  standing  on  a hill,  and  emerge 
at  el  parque,  a cool,  tree-embowered  spot  with  many  fountains  of  bub- 
bling, plunging  water.  The  wide  basins  are  equipped  with  sprayers  which 
throw  the  water  into  the  air  and  produce  fine  rainbow  effects.  Some  of 
the  ojos  de  aqua  (water-eyes)  bubble  up  from  the  sand  and  resemble 
miniature  spouting  volcanoes.  Clumps  of  fine  bamboos,  stately  fresnos, 
and  many  willows  cast  a grateful  shade  and  make  the  spot  restful  and 
attractive.  Passing  out  through  the  gate  near  the  small  house  at  the 
top  of  the  terrace  we  bear  to  the  1.,  ascend  the  hill  and  come  to  the 
Oolonia  Miraval  (PI.  C,  2),  founded  in  1907.  The  Calzada  Leandro 
Valle  (from  the  rly.  station  to  the  town)  and  the  Porfirio  Diaz  Bridge 
(built  by  Government  at  a cost  of  S50,000),  and  the  Chamilpa  gorge  flank 
the  colony  on  the  town  side.  The  Paseo,  or  main  highway,  is  bordered 
by  parterres  of  flowers,  and  the  three  glorietas  command  entrancing  dews 
of  the  hills  and  valleys.  The  little  barranca  on  the  1.  with  its  Japanese 
bridges  and  graveled  path  is  attractive.  The  source  of  the  fine  stream 
of  water  which  flows  through  the  Colonia  is  in  the  hill  to  the  r.  of  the 
stone  bridge  spanning  the  barranca.  We  follow  the  small  raised  and 
plastered  viaduct  which  curves  round  the  hill  to  the  r.  until  we  reach  a 
stone  casement  and  an  iron  gate.  The  main  tunnel  is  dry  and  clean, 
about  1 M.  long,  with  side  passages  which  admit  light  and  open  onto  the 
barranca,  adown  which  one  gets  attractive  views.  Note  the  footprints 
of  the  foxes  and  other  small  quadrupeds  which  roam  the  tunnel  at  night. 
The  stream  was  struck  in  1907.  By  crossing  the  bridge  and  bearing  to 
t^e  r.  around  the  crest  of  the  hill,  we  emerge  on  the  Calzada  de  Tlalte- 
nango,  and  the  Pueblo  and  Church  (see  below)  lie  about  ^ M.  to  the  r. 
Returning  through  Miraval,  we  descend  into  the  tiny  barranca  along  the 
gravelled  foot-path,  follow  the  course  of  the  stream,  pass  beneath  the 
acueducto , and  emerge  on  the  main  road  to  Cuernavaca. 

b.  Church  and  Pueblo  of  Tlaltenango  (PI.  B,  1),  3 M.  from  the  plaza, 
over  a broad  road  ( Calzada  de  Tlaltenango );  burro,  50  c.  A good  pedes- 
trian can  make  it  in  ^ hr.  We  follow  the  Calles  de  Malamoros  to  the 
Plaza  de  Cortes,  and  continue  along  the  straight  road  leading  N.  The  ch. 
spire  is  visible  in  the  distance.  The  much  travelled  highway  was  formerly 
the  old  diligence  road  (or  C amino  Real  of  the  Spaniards)  over  which  treas- 
ure trains  went  from  the  capital  to  Acapulco.  Many  pack-burros  come  and 
go,  some  laden  with  long  pine  beams  ( vigas ) from  the  woods  near  the 
Tres  Marias;  beams  which  drag  along  the  ground  and  stir  up  clouds  of 
dust.  Lines  of  small  houses  flank  the  roadway;  Miraval  is  on  the  r.  and 
the  old  Panteon  on  the  1.  Some  fine  old  fresnos  and  sabinos  overshadow 
the  quaint  fQuntain  in  the  triangular  plaza  which  faces  the  ch.  at  Tlalte- 
nango, a wealth  of  flaming  Bougainvillaea  hangs  over  the  garden  walls,  and 
several  tall  pines  stand  in  the  ch.  yard,  to  the  r.  of  the  road.  A bizarre 
tower  and  a new  iron  balcony  (above  the  main  entrance)  are  the  chief 
features  of  the  ch.  exterior.  The  broad,  walled-in  atrium  is  paved  with 
grave-stones,  and  a number  of  tombs  are  ranged  along  the  walls  of  the  en- 
closure. The  most  prized  object  in  the  ch.,  which  is  dedicated  to  the  San- 
tisima  Virgin  del  Pueblo  de  Tlaltenango,  is  the  alleged  miraculous  figure, 
which  stands  about  two  ft.  high,  on  a finely  chased  silver  vase,  in  a glass 
case  at  the  High  Altar.  It  is  clad  in  a rich  yellow  embroidered  silk  skirt, 
embellished  with  gold  lace  and  surmounted  by  a thin  gold  crown.  At  the 
base  of  the  altar  is  a picture,  in  low  relief,  depicting  a group  of  friars  and 
Indians  discovering  the  image,  whose  authenticity  was  recognized  by  a 
Papal  Bull  of  Pope  Gregory  XVI,  of  June  14,  1836. 

The  interior  of  the  ch.  with  its  single  nave  and  white  and  gold  altar 
is  clean  and  attractive.  The  sanctuar3r  appears  to  be  the  chosen  battle- 
ground of  the  cockerels  of  the  pueblo,  who  adjust  their  differences  there 
and  leave  not  a little  of  their  plumage  at  the  foot  of  the  altar.  The 
chapel  at  the  1.  of  the  main  altar  has  some  curious  paper  figures  of  anti- 
quated children,  sheep,  horses  and  goats.  The  most  interesting  sight, 
after  the  figure  of  the  Sanlisima,  is  the  lot  of  150  or  more  crude  paint- 
ings hanging  beneath  the  organ-loft  just  within  the  doorway.  They  are 
manifestly  the  work  of  some  village  sign-painter  with  a meagre  experi- 
ence, and  they  appear  to  form  a comprehensive  directory  of  the  prole- 


San  Antonio. 


CUERNAVACA 


46.  Route . 449 


tariat.  The  colors,  the  lack  of  perspective,  and  the  crude  workmanship 
are  distressful.  Some  of  the  pictures  show  men  and  women  on  sick  beds, 
or  in  the  act  of  falling  off  bridges,  being  run  over  by  wagons,  attacked 
by  bandidos,  burned,  bitten  by  dogs,  and  otherwise  maltreated:  the  whole 
forming  a category  of  crime,  misery  and  accident  difficult  to  associate 
with  the  annals  of  so  small  and  somnolent  a place.  Each  picture  bears 
a miniature  of  the  Virgin  of  Tlallenango  or  of  Guadalupe , and  the  in- 
scription tells  of  marvellous  escapes  and  cures  brought  about  at  critical 
moments  by  these  benign  patronesses.  As  tokens  of  gratitude  and 
esteem  the  “cured  ’’ones  have  left  wads  of  hair,  photographs,  — some 
of  which  look  as  if  taken  by  Daguerre  himself,  — ears  of  corn,  green-glass 
goggles,  crutches,  and  specimens  of  chirography  anything  but  flattering 
to  the  talent  of  the  village  pedagogue.  At  a table  nearby  are  sold  pic- 
tures of  Nuestra  Sehora  de  Tlallenango , and  ribbons  giving  the  exact 
measurement  of  her  head. 

Before  essaying  the  return  journey,  proceed  to  the  top  of  the  hill  be- 
yond the  ch.  and  enjoy  the  splendid  panorama  of  the  valley  and  the 
encircling  hills.  The  church  among  the  trees  to  the  1.  is  Santa  Maria , 
the  choice  of  the  Indians  but  with  no  interesting  features;  that  to  the 
r.  is  the  Chapel  of  Chamilpa.  The  little  pueblo  at  the  crest  of  the  hill  is 
Huichilac,  long  a post-station  on  the  road  between  Cuernavaca  and 
Mexico  City.  Several  fine  haciendas  hereabout  were  destroyed  during  the 
revolution,  along  with  cane  mills,  aguardiente  factories,  etc. 

c.  El  Salto  de  San  Antonio  (St.  Anthony’s  Falls),  a pleasant  walk 
3 M.  to  the  W.  (PI.  A,  4).  Guide  unnecessary.  Carriage  for  the  round 
trip  $1-1.50;  horse  $1  for  the  a.  m.  Burro  50  c.  In  any  case  the  last 
fifth  of  the  journey  outward  must  be  made  on  foot  as  the  road  is  too 
precipitous  for  either  horse  or  vehicle.  Carriages  go  and  come  the  same 
way;  pedestrians  usually  choose  for  the  outward  journey  a picturesque 
route  (see  below)  unavailable  for  horse  or  carriage,  and  return  by  the 
highway.  We  proceed  to  the  S.-E.  corner  of  the  Borda  Garden , turn 
sharply  to  the  r.  and  follow  the  narrow,  cobble-paved  lane  — Callejon 
de  la  Borda  — which  dips  down  hill  and  flanks  the  side  wall  of  the  gar- 
den. At  the  base  of  the  mirador  at  the  S.-W.  corner  of  the  garden  is  a 
junction  of  four  foot-paths:  we  choose  the  one  which  descends  (W.) 
into  the  ravine  and  leads  to  the  old  viaducto  spanning  the  barranca. 
The  view  from  this  point,  up  and  down  the  gorge  and  to  the  blue  mts. 
that  cut  the  S.  sky  line,  is  very  attractive.  For  three  centuries  or  more 
this  weather-beaten  old  bridge  (built  by  the  order  of  Cortes,  and  still  an 
admirably  preserved  example  of  the  solidity  of  Spanish  masonry),  has 
withstood  the  assaults  of  time  and  of  the  earthquakes  which  frequently 
shake  the  district.  It  is  tinted  gray  with  the  coloring  of  ages,  but  looks 
strong  enough  to  defy  the  withering  touch  of  time  and  to  stand  up  for 
another  century  or  so.  It  was  over  this  gulch  that  the  Spaniards  and 
their  Tlaxcalan  allies  scrambled  to  the  defeat  of  the  Tlahuican  defenders 
of  the  town.  The  rather  stiffish  climb  up  the  opposite  hillside  is  a bit 
wearisome  for  ladies,  but  once  on  the  crest  of  the  hill  we  secure  a fine 
retrospective  view  of  the  town  beyond  the  ravine,  of  the  deep  barranca 
bright  with  wild  flowers  and  green  with  many  banana  trees,  and  of  the 
noisy  little  rivulet  churning  and  bubbling  its  way  to  lower  levels.  Half- 
way up  the  hill,  on  the  r.,  is  an  Indian  hut  where  several  native  potters 
can  be  seen  fashioning  the  crude  ware  for  which  the  region  is  locally 
celebrated.  Groups  of  bright-eyed  Indian  girls  bearing  tall  crates  of 
earthenware  on  their  shoulders  are  often  met  wending  their  way  town- 
ward. 

The  time-stained  Indian  church  of  San  Antonio,  with  a pink  facade 
and  a stuffy  (and  uninteresting)  interior,  stands  at  the  r.  of  the  path 
where  it  intersects  the  San  Antonio  road.  We  follow  this  highway  (N.) 
between  lines  of  small  potteries  where  many  Indians  are  at  work.  A 
stream  of  cool  water  flows  by  the  roadside  and  serves  as  a laundry  to  the 
families  of  the  neighborhood,  beside  supplying  them  with  drinking  wa- 
ter. The  quaint  huts  of  the  natives  stand  in  clean-swept  yards,  beneath 
flowering  trees,  under  which  are  mats  with  drying  coffee.  Naked  chil- 
dren, noisy  turkeys,  pariah  dogs,  chirping  birds,  and  hee-hawing  burros; 
walls  covered  with  flaming  cacti,  a wealth  of  red  and  white  roses,  of 


450  Route  46. 


CUERNAVACA 


Chapultepec . 


oleanders,  papayas,  mangoes,  and  scarlet  coffee-berries  are  ever  present 
features.  The  natives  are  as  a rule  gentle,  industrious,  obliging  and 
reticent.  The  smaller  pieces  of  pottery  cost  10-25  c.;  water-bottles  with 
crude  decorations  of  broken  glass,  37-75  c.  Better  pieces  can  generally 
be  found  in  the  Cuernavaca  market,  where  a wider  selection  is  possible. 
Bargaining  always  necessary. 

About  t>  M.  from  the  church  we  come  to  a lane  which  leads  downward 
to  the  1.  Carriages  stop  here.  The  falls  are  within  10  min.  walk.  We 
follow  the  fence  as  it  trends  to  the  1.  and  continue  along  the  narrow, 
rocky  road  to  a lane  between  stone  walls  overhung  with  vines.  To  the 
r.  is  a large  yard  with  a pottery  establishment.  Beyond  a point  in  the 
1.  wall,  where  wooden  bars  give  ingress  to  a pasture,  stands  a big  tree 
half  embedded  in  the  stones.  The  highway  descends  precipitately  into 
the  barranca,  but  instead  of  following  it  we  climb  the  wall  (to  the  1.) 
and  thread  a narrow  but  well-defined  path  along  the  brink  of  the  gorge. 
The  path  soon  ends  at  a short  series  of  steps  cut  out  of  the  hillside.  A 
winding  path  crosses  a succession  of  terraces  cut  from  the  over-hanging 
cliffs;  continuing  beneath  them  we  emerge  on  a rocky  platform  over- 
looking the  pool.  Here  we  obtain  a beautiful  view  of  the  cascade  as  it 
plunges  over  the  cliff  and  drops  to  the  dark,  bubbling  pool  below.  Nu- 
merous song  birds  make  their  home  in  the  dense  undergrowth  about  this 
cool  oasis,  and  the  walls  contain  many  small  lizards  (harmless).  If  there 
are  snakes  in  the  vicinity  they  usually  keep  discreetly  in  the  background. 
To  the  lover  of  nature's  beautiful  extravagances,  this  is  a charming  spot 
to  visit  and  re-visit.  It  needs  only  a quaint  pagoda,  a dainty  tea-house, 
or  a Shinto  shrine  to  make  it  a transplanted  bit  of  old  Japan,  for  it  is 
the  embodiment  of  the  style  of  landscape  which  far-eastern  painters  de- 
light to  reproduce  on  porcelain  or  on  screens  and  bizarre  lacquer  trays 
or  stands. 

The  stroll  homeward  usually  adds  a succession  of  pretty  vistas  and 
contrasts  to  the  journey.  The  splendors  of  a semi-tropical  simset  are 
generally  seen  to  great  advantage  from  the  crest  of  the  hill,  and  the  charm 
and  restfulness  of  the  twilight  are  enhanced  by  the  picturesque  figures 
of  Indians  hurrying  homeward  across  the  fields.  At  the  intersection  of 
the  lane  with  the  Cantina  de  San  Antonio  we  may  return  whence  we  came, 
or,  which  is  better,  diversify  the  way,  bear  to  the  1.  and  follow  the  car- 
riage road  to  the  quaint  old  Pant  eon,  with  its  tangle  of  shrubbery  and 
its  single  shaded  walk.  Here  the  calzada  bends  sharpb7  to  the  r.,  merges 
into  an  old  Spanish  military  road  and  crosses  the  barranca  over  a stone 
bridge.  (By  continuing  along  the  main  highway  past  the  cemetery  gate, 
and  crossing  the  hills  to  the  r.,  we  come  to  the  Calzada  de  Tlaltenango, 
with  Miraval  on  the  r.)  Far  to  the  r.  of  the  bridge  is  the  old  r iadycta 
which  we  traversed  on  the  outward  journey.  Proceeding  along  the  bridge 
and  climbing  the  opposite  slope,  we  thread  the  Calles  de  Alpuche  to  the 
Ave.  Morelos.  Crossing  this,  and  the  small  Plaza  de  Zaragoza,  then  en- 
tering the  Segunda  CaJle  de  Degollado,  we  soon  emerge  at  its  intersection 
with  the  Arc.  de  Matamoros.  The  Plaza  Juarez  is  at  the  r. 

d.  Church  of  Chapultepec  (PI.  E,  3),  about  3 M.  from  the  Plaza 
Juarez.  Beyond  the  ch.  (\  M.)  is  a wild  and  shaded  spot,  La  Fttente 
(the  fountain),  where  a brawling  brook  boils  and  tumbles  across  the 
highway  and  rushes  away  beneath  a tangle  of  vegetation.  Best  reached 
on  foot,  as  the  carriage  ride  would  invite  a jolting  one  would  not  soon 
forget.  Burro  50  c.  A fairly  good  foot-path  flanks  the  roadside;  time 
about  1 hr.  from  the  hotel.  Guide  unnecessary.  The  country  is  safe; 
the  spires  of  Cuernavaca  are  always  in  sight,  and  the  people  one  meets 
are  polite  and  inoffensive.  Children  enjoy  this  excursion,  as  they  can 
wade  the  shallow  brook  and  pick  brilliant  wild-flowers  by  the  roadside. 
Bevond  la  fuente  the  alleged  highway  is  worse  than  iniquitous,  and  recalls 
the  whimsical  lament  of  the  poet:  “The  valleys  are  gardens  of  Eden, 
but  the  roads  are  those  of  Hell.” 

We  follow  the  street  that  dips  past  the  Palacio  de  CortSs  on  the  clock- 
tower  side,  croas  the  depression  flanked  by  the  quaint  homes  of  the 
natives,  and  climb  the  rocky7  road  to  the  crest  of  the  hill.  The  settlement 
at  the  left  is  Amaiitldn:  the  church  (down  the  side  road)  is  dedicated 
to  San  Luis  Obispo.  As  we  quit  the  town,  the  country  road  passes 


Atlacomulco. 


CUERNAVACA 


46.  Route.  451 


between  low  walls  of  volcanic  stone  which  enclose  gardens  idealized  by 
handsome  flowering  trees  and  shrubs.  Far  to  the  1.  is  the  rly.  station. 
On  certain  stretches  of  this  highway  the  air  is  perennially  balmy  with 

I fragrant  orange-blossoms,  and  the  yellow  globular  fruit  can  be  seen 
hanging  low  over  the  roof-trees  of  the  native  huts.  Coffee,  lemons,  man- 
goes, zapotes,  and  a host  of  fine  fruits  grow  in  wanton  profusion,  usually 
amid  a wealth  of  double-red  and  dregs-of-wine  roses  that  would  make 
the  fortune  of  a metropolitan  florist.  The  country  is  crossed  and  recrossed 
by  tinkling  streams  of  mountain  water,  and  the  abundance  of  moisture, 
an  ardent  sun  and  a rich  soil  combine  to  produce  a flora  delightful  and 

I almost  endless  in  variety.  Some  of  these  flowers  are  unknown  to  other 
climes  and  some  bear  Indian  names  quite  unpronounceable  by  foreign 
tongues.  Notable  among  them  are  the  beautiful  Y oloxochitl  (p.  443)  and 
the  Izguixochitl,  the  latter  with  a fragrance  akin  to  that  of  a musk-rose. 
Floripondios  (a  Peruvian  flower)  abound  and  contrast  sharply  with  the 
| Omnipresent,  brilliant  Flor  de  la  N oche  Buena.  The  bright  crimson  berries 
! of  the  coffee-tree  are  almost  hidden  by  the  white,  star-like  blossoms  of 
unformed  fruit,  for  in  this  generous  climate  trees  and  shrubs  often  bear 
flowers  on  one  branch  and  fruit  on  another.  The  district  is  the  haunt 
of  many  iridescent  humming-birds  (comp.  p.  217).  The  snow-capped 
cone  of  Popocatepetl  looms  grandly  ahead. 

The  Church  of  Chapultepec  imparts  the  impression  of  an  edifice  long 
used  by  the  “quality,”  then  presented  to  the  Indians.  The  exterior 
decorations  are  those  of  a crazy-quilt.  The  body  is  pink,  — a favorite 
Indian  color,  — the  single  tower  is  pink  and  blue,  the  huge  wooden  door 
is  a dirty  yellow  and  the  rest  of  the  structure  is  stained  with  a tint  that 
only  centuries  can  impart.  The  interior  is  not  worth  looking  at.  Strang- 
ers will  do  well  to  rest  content  with  an  exterior  view,  since  small-pox 
( viruela ) sometimes  ravages  this  region  and  the  afflicted  Indians,  always 
overburdened  with  a bizarre  entomological  congress,  take  all  their  sor- 
rows to  the  feet  of  their  patron  saint. 

To  come  to  La  Fuente  we  continue  along  the  highway  till  it  surmounts 
. the  next  hill  and  dips  into  the  valley  beyond.  When  halfway  up  the 
i opposite  slope  we  turn  sharply  to  the  r.  and  descend  into  the  ravine 
whence  comes  the  sound  of  singing  waters.  On  the  far  side  of  the  stream 
t is  a time-stained  Spanish  aqueduct.  The  restfulness  of  the  spot,  the 
view  of  the  environing  foliage  and  of  the  giant  trees  is  attractive  and 
well  repays  one  for  the  journey.  Many  lovely  ferns  grow  near  the  cool 
water,  and  scarlet  coffee-berries  are  as  thick  as  “high-blues”  in  New 
England.  After  the  torrent  falls  over  the  incline  at  the  base  of  the  road- 
way, it  spreads  in  a miniature  rapid  which  sings  and  whimpers  on  its 
way  to  join  the  mother  stream  at  a lower  level;  furnishing,  in  its  travels, 
water  and  power  to  the  old  sugar-mill  of  Atlacomulco , described  below. 

e.  The  Sugar-Mill  oi  Atlacomulco  was  founded  by  Hernan  Cortes 
in  1535,  and  is  consequently  the  oldest  crushing-mill  ( ingenio  de  azucar) 
on  the  continent.  The  structure  stands  in  the  centre  of  the  Pueblo  de 
Atlacomulco , a mere  cluster  of  mud  huts  2 miles  E.  of  the  Cuernavaca 
plaza.  A good  walker  can  make  the  journey  in  two  hrs.  Burro,  50  c. 
The  stable-boy  who  accompanies  the  animal  as  a driver  (fee  of  25  c. 

1 advisable)  wili  make  an  acceptable  guide.  If  the  trip  is  made  in  the  fore- 
| noon  a broad-brimmed  hat  is  almost  indispensable,  as  on  the  homeward 
J trip  the  sun  beats  full  on  the  back  of  the  neck.  Acapacingo,  the  Emperor 
Maximilian’s  country  residence,  can  be  visited  on  the  return  journey  by 
making  a short  detour  to  the  1.  The  trip  to  both  places  can  be  made  com- 
fortably on  burro-back  (50  c.  inclusive)  and  without  haste  in  one  fore- 
noon. The  panoramas  from  the  crests  of  the  hills  are  beguiling 

We  follow  the  road  which  leads  past  the  W.  (left)  end  of  Cortes'  Palace , 
cross  the  barranca,  climb  the  opposite  slope  and  bear  sharply  to  the  r., 
skirting  the  gorge.  The  volcanoes  loom  ahead  and  the  myriad  wild-roses, 
flaming  coffee,  and  Bougainvillaea  relieve  the  toilsomeness  of  the  road. 
The  long  bridge  ( Puente  de  Aguila ) which  we  cross  just  before  reaching 
the  mill  ( molino ) was  once  the  favorite  resort  of  bandidos.  The  mill,  a 
long,  rambling  structure,  terminating  at  the  S.  in  a small  chapel,  bears 
the  marks  of  great  age.  Here  sugar  was  crushed  from  the  cane  85  years 
before  the  Mayflower  anchored  in  Plymouth  Harbor.  The  walls  around 


452  Route  46.  CUERNAVACA  Acapacingo. 

the  workmen’s  huts  are  made  of  discarded  pottery  moulds  in  which  the 
pilones  (cones)  of  sugar  are  formed.  Sugar  is  still  made  here  for  the 
owner  of  the  property,  the  Duke  of  Terra  Nova  y Montdeone,  a direct 
descendant  of  the  Great  Captain.  The  vast  fields  whence  the  cane  is 
ootained  stretch  away  eastward  from  the  town.  We  pass  beneath  the 
great  arched  entrance  (no  permit  necessary  and  no  fees)  midway  of  the 
building  and  cross  the  patio  to  the  cane-crushing  department  (tablet), 
added  in  1852-53.  All  that  part  of  the  edifice  to  the  r.  of  the  entrance 
is  modern.  The  bronze  bell  aswing  above  the  office  of  the  administrador 
is  modern  and  is  used  to  call  the  men  from  the  fields.  The  crushing 
season  is  between  Jan.  and  July;  the  juice  not  distilled  into  aguardiente 
(brandy)  is  poured  into  pottery  cones  set  in  a framework  in  the  floor 
and  allowed  to  crystallize  into  the  pilones  of  commerce.  Corncobs  and 
bagasse  are  burned  as  fuel  under  the  great  boilers.  The  water  which 
courses  through  the  mill  comes  from  La  Fuente  (see  p.  451). 

f.  Acapacingo  (Maximilian’s  one-time  country  residence),  see  above 
and  comp.  PI.  E,  4.  We  return  along  the  main  road  from  the  sugar-mill 
to  its  intersection  with  a by-path  leading  (J  M.)  to  Acapacingo , near  a 
quaint  chapel  surrounded  by  a wealth  of  flowering  trees.  Facing  this  is 
a tile-covered  gateway  and  the  inscription  “ Antigua  Casa  del  Emperador 
Maximillano .”  A bi-lingual  sign  fastened  to  the  gate-post  advises  that 
an  entrance  fee  of  25  c.  is  charged.  Only  an  imperial  caprice  could  have 
induced  the  harassed  Emperor  to  desert  the  restful  house  in  the  Borda 
garden  for  this  damp  and  tawdry  bungalow.  There  is  nothing  to  see  but 
a tumble-down  shooting-lodge,  and  a swimming-pool,  once  the  delight, 
it  is  said,  of  the  Empress  Carlota.  The  historical  association  is  all  that 
makes  the  place  interesting.  We  return  by  a narrow  lane  much  smoother 
than  the  highway  to  Atlacomulco.  After  a few  turns,  with  the  town  spires 
always  in  sight,  we  re-enter  Cuernavaca  along  the  road  which  parallels 
the  palacio  in  the  rear. 

g.  The  Teocalli  of  Tepoxtepec,  near  the  Indian  pueblo  of  Tepoztlan, 
can  be  reached  from  El  Parque  station  (p.  435),  but  Cuernavaca  is  usually 
made  the  starting-point,  as  better  horses  are  obtainable  here  and  the 
trip  can  be  planned  to  greater  advantage.  One  full  day  is  sufficient  for 
the  round  trip.  Charges  for  horses  and  guide  about  the  same  as  to 
Xochicalco  (p.  453).  The  ruins  are  those  of  a temple  and  a citadel 
( templo  y ciudadda ) poised  on  the  summit  of  acerro  which  rises  1,200  ft. 
above  the  surrounding  plain  and  commands  a splendid  panorama  of  this 
and  the  distant  valley.  They  are  supposed  to  have  been  erected  by  the 
Tlahuicas  (a  Nahuatl  tribe  which  peopled  Cuernavaca  at  the  time  of  the 
Spanish  invasion)  about  the  year  1200.  The  templo  which  once  occupied 
the  top  of  the  pyramid  is  now  almost  obliterated,  only  the  walls  remain- 
ing. In  the  lower  apartments  are  the  ruins  of  a fountain,  and  a brasero 
where  aromatic  resins  were  burned  as  incense  to  the  gods.  When  this 
enclosure  was  cleared  of  debris  (1895)  some  copper  vessels  and  many 
obsidian  arrow-heads  were  found  — the  latter  evidently  launched  bv 
besiegers  against  the  defenders  of  the  place.  At  the  base  of  the  lower  wall 
is  a huge  stone  bench  with  some  notable  carvings  in  bas-relief;  among 
them  a figure  representing  a tobacco-pouch  ( allataxtli ) in  the  form  of  a 
tiger’s  jaw  with  a fastening  ( malinali ) represented  by  a clinched  claw. 
In  the  N.  wall,  embedded  in  the  plaster  which  holds  the  huge  volcanic 
stones  together,  were  found  many  arrow-heads  of  volcanic  glass.  The 
main  temple  once  contained  a locally  celebrated  Indian  idol,  Ome-toxtli , 
or  two-rabbits,  the  god  of  inebriety,  to  which  came  pilgrims  from  many 
distant  places  The  idol  was  dethroned,  broken  into  bits  and  buried  by 
the  Spanish  Friars  in  1523.  A number  of  nonsensical  legends  refer  to  a 
powerful  cacique,  one  Tepoxtecatl , who  is  said  to  have  dwelt  here  in  ages 
past,  and  to  have  been  renowned  for  an  unusual  prowess.  Every  year  on 
a certain  day  (a  movable  feast)  the  Tepoztlan  villagers  (who  speak  pure 
Nahuatl)  hold  a sham  battle  to  commemorate  the  valor  of  this  departed 
cacique,  and  the  credulous  Indian  women  bring  flowers  to  the  temple. 
A wooden  tower,  representing  the  teocalli , is  erected  in  the  centre  of  the 
plaza , and  around  it  are  raised  shacks  supposed  to  be  the  village  of  the 
enemy.  Squads  of  Indians  clad  as  warriors  assault  the  position  only  to  be 
beaten  off.  The  performance  winds  up  in  a drunken  orgy.  Of  greater 


Xochicalco. 


CUERNAVACA 


4.6.  Route.  453 


interest  to  the  visitor  is  the  Museo  de  Tepoztlan  (free),  housed  in  an 
ancient  chapel  known  as  the  house  of  Martin  Cortes,  and  also  as  the 
Casa  de  la  Cadena  (house  of  the  chain)  because  of  a curious  bit  of  Indian 
sculpture  above  the  doorway.  This  house  (wherein  the  son  of  the  Great 
Captain  is  said  to  have  lived)  probably  dates  from  1540. 

h.  El  Cerro  de  Xochicalco  (hill  of  the  flowers),  near  the  Indian  village  of 
the  same  name,  is  about  18  M.  west  of  Cuernavaca,  on  the  road  to  the 
Cacahuamilpa  cavern.  The  trip  can  be  made  in  conjunction  with  a visit  to 
the  cave,  and  also  to  the  old  Hacienda  de  Cortes.  Auto,  guide,  etc.,  can  be 
arranged  for  with  the  help  of  the  hotel  manager.  The  cerro  stands  in  the 
midst  of  a broken  but  picturesque  country,  and  unless  one  is  particularly  in- 
terested in  ancient  ruins  the  time  spent  in  a visit  will  scarcely  repay  one. 

, Inferior  ruins  can  be  seen  near  the  Cuernavaca  station,  and  vastly  superior 
ones  at  San  Juan  Teotihuacdn,  described  at  p.  425.  Archaeologists  find  the 
i Xochicalco  ruins  interesting,  but  less  so  than  those  of  Yucatan  or  Palenque. 
j The  Indian  hamlets  in  the  neighborhood  call  for  no  particular  mention. 

The  ruins  crown  the  summit  of  a hill  whose  point  rises  some  300  ft. 
above  the  surrounding  country.  “Who  the  builders  of  this  pyramid 
were,  no  one  can  tell.  There  is  no  tradition  of  them,  or  of  their  temple. 
When  first  discovered  ( Cortes  and  his  men  travelled  past  here  in  1520 
on  their  way  to  Cuernavaca  and  they  were  the  first  white  men  to  visit 
the  ruins),  no  one  knew  to  what  it  had  been  devoted,  or  who  had  built 
it.  It  has  outlasted  both  history  and  memory.  No  one  who  examines 
the  figures  with  which  it  is  covered  can  fail  to  connect  the  designs  with 
the  people  who  dwelt  and  worshipped  in  the  palaces  and  temples  of 
Uxmal  (p.  580)  and  Palenque  (p.  567).  The  base  of  the  eminence  on  which 
the  ruin  stands  is  surrounded  by  the  very  distinct  remains  of  a deep  and 
| wide  ditch;  its  summit  is  attained  by  five  spiral  terraces;  the  walls  that 
support  them  are  built  of  stone  joined  by  cement,  and  are  still  quite 
perfect,  and  at  regular  distances,  as  if  to  buttress  these  terraces,  there 
are  remains  of  bulwarks  shaped  like  the  bastions  of  a fortification.  The 
summit  of  the  hill  is  a wide  esplanade,  on  the  eastern  side  of  which  are 
still  perceptible  three  truncated  cones,  resembling  the  tumuli  found 
among  many  similar  ruins  in  Mexico.  El  Castillo  (castle),  on  the  top  of 
the  last  terrace,  is  a rectangular  building,  measuring  above  the  plinth 
64  ft.  long  by  58  deep  on  the  western  points,  and  faces  in  exact  cor- 
respondence with  the  cardinal  points.  The  hill  on  which  the  castillo 
rests  commands  the  whole  valley,  save  for  another  cerro  to  the  east,  and 
a commanding  view  is  had  of  the  surrounding  hill  and  plain,  thickly 
covered  with  volcanic  debris,  and  barrancas  everywhere  dividing  the 
surface.  Two  lovely  lakes  lie  far  to  the  S.  This  cerro  is  directly  S.  from 
the  Valley  of  Mexico,  and  the  lights  of  the  people  who  occupied  it  must 
have  guided  the  ancient  Aztecs  as  they  came  from  their  capital,  going 
south,  for  it  is  in  full  view  from  the  mountains.  The  stones  of  the  crown- 
ing surface  are  laid  upon  each  other  without  cement,  and  kept  in  place 
by  their  weight  alone;  and  as  the  sculpture  of  a figure  is  seen  to  run  over 
several  of  them,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  bas-relief  work  was  cut 
after  the  pyramid  was  erected.  Stones  7 ft.  in  length  by  nearly  three  in 
breadth  are  seen  here,  and  all  the  great  blocks  of  porphyry  which  com- 
posed the  building,  and  perhaps  encased  the  entire  cerro,  were  brought 
I from  a distance,  and  borne  up  a hill  three  hundred  ft.  in  height.”  Be- 
neath the  structure  on  the  summit  is  a series  of  caverns  opened  about 
fifty  years  ago.  According  to  an  Indian  tradition  they  extend  beneath 
j the  mts.  surrounding  the  Valley  of  Mexico  and  connect  with  the  much 
venerated  cave  of  the  Cerro  de  Teutli,  near  Lake  Chaleo  and  the  pueblo 
j of  Tulyahualco,  as  well  as  with  the  caverns  of  Cacahuamilpa  (described 
below),  — which  is  highly  improbable. 

i.  The  Caverna  (cavern)  or  Grutas  (grottos)  de  Cacahua- 
milpa, 46  M.  S.-W.  of  Cuernavaca,  in  the  State  of  Guerrero,  Dis- 
trito de  Alarcon , and  M unicipalidad  de  Tetipac,  are  the  largest 
known  caves  in  Mexico  and  are  visited  by  many  Mexicans 
and  foreigners. 

While  many  auto  parties  make  the  trip  from  Mexico  City, 


454  Route  46.  CUERNAVACA  C acah ua m ilpa. 

it  is  less  fatiguing,  particularly  for  ladies,  if  the  start  is  made 
from  Cuernavaca.  Autos  can  be  arranged  for  with  the  aid  of 
the  hotel  manager  at  M.  C.  or  Cuernavaca.  The  Cerro  de 
Xochicalco  (p.  453)  can  be  inspected  en  route,  if  so  desired. 
Luncheon  and  a duster,  or  macintosh,  should  be  taken,  and  an 
early  start  made.  Guide  unnecessary,  as  the  cave  is  in  charge 
of  government  employees  who  conduct  parties  through  (no 
fees).  At  a point  beyond  Puente  de  Ixtla , thence  to  the  parking 
place  near  the  entrance  to  the  gruta , the  road  is  cut  from  the 
mt.  side  and  is  so  narrow  that  two  autos  cannot  pass.  In  con- 
sequence, autos  reaching  this  point  after  2 p.  m.,  are  not  al- 
lowed to  proceed  until  all  the  cars  coming  from  the  cave  have 
passed.  It  is  also  advisable  to  be  at  the  entrance  to  the  cave 
not  later  than  11  a.  m.,  at  which  time  the  personally  conducted 
party  usually  starts  on  the  tour  of  inspection.  The  inward 
trip  takes  about  2 hrs.;  the  outward  trip  \ hr.  Autos  are 
customarily  started  back  at  short  intervals  after  2 p.  m. 

From  Cuernavaca  the  highroad  crosses  a broken  but  pictur- 
esque country,  dotted  with  Indian  hamlets,  suga r-haciendasf 
and  cut  by  deep,  wide  barrancas.  The  cane-fields  originally 
were  planted  by  the  soldiers  of  Cortes,  who  also  built  some  of 
the  mills.  In  places  the  narrow  road  is  cut  from  the  shoulder 
of  the  hill.  At  10  M.  we  skirt  the  Hacienda  del  Puente , with 
a big  mill  and  a water  course.  At  11  M.,  Xochitepec,  the  road 
turns  sharp  right  at  the  plaza,  then  left,  and  crosses  the  shallow 
river  of  the  same  name.  Beyond  the  river  and  pueblo  of  Al - 
poyeca  the  road  crosses  a wide  plain  to  Puente  de  Ixtla.  Beyond 
that  point  the  ride  is  unattractive  until  the  highway  enters  the 
hills,  where  the  scenery  is  picturesque  and  the  country  lonely. 

Cacahuamilpa,  in  the  Aztec  tongue  a place  where  cacao 
beans  (or  peanuts)  grow,  is  an  Indian  hamlet  perched  on  the 
slope  of  the  foothills  jutting  out  from  a commanding  range  of 
mts.  which  separates  the  states  of  Guerrero  and  Morelos.  A 
few  poor  houses,  a small  church  and  some  straggling  callejones 
(lanes)  are  the  chief  features  of  the  place. 

The  higher  slopes  of  the  hills  are  bleak,  but  many  handsome 
flowering  trees  and  shrubs  flourish  in  the  humid  depths  of  the 
barrancas , through  which  plunge  and  swirl  a number  of  cool 
streams.  The  grutas  which  have  taken  the  name  of  the  town 
were  discovered  in  1835  by  police  who  tracked  a criminal  to 
the  entrance.  Since  that  time  manv  passages  and  salons  have 
been  explored,  and  this  work  is  still  in  progress. 

Though  not  as  extensive  as  the  great  Mammoth  Cave  of 
Kentucky,  with  its  223  avenues,  12  million  cubic  yards  of 
galleries  and  passages,  57  cupolas,  1 1 lakes,  7 rivers,  8 cataracts, 
32  wells  and  its  matchless  acoustic  properties,  Cacahuamilpa 
is  interesting,  and  is  regarded  by  Mexicans  as  one  of  the 
sights  of  the  country.  General  U.  S.  Grant  visited  the  cave  in 
1847,  while  the  American  army  was  in  Mexico,  and  wrote  of 


CACAHUAMILPA  CAVE  46.  Route.  455 


it.  The  Empress  Carlota,  Maximilian’s  brilliant  consort, 
inspected  the  cave  in  1866,  and  on  one  of  the  walls  she  wrote  the 
now  almost  obliterated  words:  ‘Maria  Carlota  reached  this 
point.’  Sebastian  Lerdo  de  Tejada  (an  opponent  of  monarchies, 
and  president  of  Mexico,  ad  interim , after  the  death  of  Benito 
Ju&rez  in  1872)  visited  the  cave  (in  1874),  and  beneath  the 
memory-awakening  inscription  scrawled  the  significant  phrase : 
‘ Sebastian  Lerdo  de  Tejada  paso  adelante ’ (went  beyond). 

The  formation  of  the  interior  is  like  that  of  the  Mammoth 
Cave,  and  similar  elements  brought  it  into  being.  Some  of  the 
stalactites  (formed  by  water  containing  limestone  in  solution 
percolating  through  the  roof)  are  of  enormous  weight  and 
several  yards  in  length,  and  it  is  estimated  that  to  have  ob- 
tained a growth  of  six  or  more  feet  in  length  and  a weight  of 
several  hundred  pounds  (through  the  medium  of  the  infinitesi- 
mal quantity  of  lime  in  each  drop  of  water)  more  than  a thou- 
sand years  were  required.  There  are  many  salas,  and  from 
the  roof  of  each  pend  these  fine  stalactites,  while  corresponding 
stalagmites  often  reach  up  from  the  floor  to  meet  them.  Some 
of  these  vaulted  ceilings  are  immensely  high,  with  notable 
acoustic  properties.  At  certain  places  the  floor  is  covered  with 
globulous  concretions  called  conjites  (comfits),  caused  by  the 
fixing  of  carbonate  of  lime  around  the  eggs  of  hermipterous 
insects,  the  Corixa  fermorata  and  Notonecta  unifasciata,  of  the 
family  Notonectidce  (boat-flies,  or  back-swimmers). 

The  magnificent  portal,  or  entrance  to  the  salas  beyond, 
is  70  ft.  high  by  150  ft.  wide,  with  rocks  so  symmetrically  dis- 
posed that  the  whole  resembles  the  work  of  some  builder  of 
titanic  arches.  When  artificially  lighted  it  suggests  a spark- 
ling fairyland.  The  caprice  of  visitors  and  explorers  has 
endowed  the  salas  or  halls,  with  fantastic  titles.  One  section, 
rough  underfoot,  is  called  the  Pedregal.  The  Sala  del  Chivo , 
named  for  an  agglomeration  of  stalagmites  resembling  a huge 
goat,  was  the  terror  of  the  Indians,  who  believed  it  encantado 
(enchanted)  until  some  one  broke  and  carried  off  its  head. 
This  sala  is  200  ft.  long,  70  ft.  wide,  and  150  ft.  high,  and  the 
walls  show  green  and  orange  tints. 

The  Salon  de  los  Organos,  a vast  amphitheatre  named  for  a 
huge  stalactite  resembling  an  organ,  contains  many  irregular 
stones  which  a lively  imagination  could  convert  into  benches 
and  seats;  some  of  the  stalactites  give  forth  a clear,  bell-like 
note  when  struck.  The  Salon  de  las  Palmas  (of  the  palms)  is 
very  beautiful,  with  palm-shaped  stalagmites  that  glisten  like 
alabaster.  There  is  a Sala  de  la  Fuente  (fountain);  Salon  del 
trono  del  Rey  (the  king’s  throne) ; Salon  del  Bautisterio  (bap- 
tistery); Sala  de  la  Emperatriz  (empress);  and  the  Plaza  de 
Armas,  so-named  for  its  resemblance  to  the  Zocalo  at  Mexico 
City,  with  its  flanking  cathedral,  etc.  The  guide  points  out 
all  the  interesting  places. 


456  Rte.  47.  STATE  OF  MORELOS 


The  State  of  Morelos  (named  in  honor  of  the  revolutionary  patriot 
Jost  Maria  Morelos),  with  a population  of  160,500  and  an  area  of  7,184 
sqr.  kilom.,  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Federal  District,  on  the  W., 
N.-W.  and  S.-E.  by  the  State  of  Mexico,  on  the  E.  and  S.-E.  by  the 
State  of  Puebla  and  on  the  S.  and  S.-W.  by  Guerrero.  Magnificent  moun- 
tain chains  cross  the  region,  which  is  marked  by  rail  peaks,  deep  valleys, 
gorges,  waterfalls,  luxuriant  tropical  vegetation,  fine  sugar-haciendas , 
Indian  temples,  towns  and  citadels.  The  Ajusco  range  separates  the 
state  from  the  Federal  District  and  is  visible  both  from  Cuernavaca  and 
the  Valley  of  Mexico.  In  the  N.-E.  are  the  Popocatepetl  and  Iztaccihuatl 
ranges,  while  the  Huitzilac,  Tepoztlan  and  Santo  Domingo  ranges  extend 
from  W.  to  E.  till  they  meet  the  Tlayacopan  mountains.  The  distinguish- 
ing peaks  of  these  rugged  ridges  are  Y epac,  Cloluica  and  Ocotecatl.  Chief 
among  the  notably  fine  barrancas  is  Amatzinac  (with  a river  of  the  same 
name)  in  the  Popocatepetl  foothills.  Many  of  the  rivers  of  the  state  are 
plunging  mountain  streams;  cold  and  rapid.  The  largest,  the  Amacusac , 
formed  by  the  San  Geronimo  and  the  Chontalcuailan  rivers,  traverse  £fie 
state  from  E.  to  W.  The  principal  lakes  and  lagoons  are  the  Tequezqui- 
tengo  and  th e Coatetelco,  in  the  Dictrito  de  Tetecala , and  the  Hueyapan 
in  the  municipalidad  de  Cuernavaca.  A peculiar  and  very  interesting 
feature  of  the  Tequezquitengo  laguna  is  that  it  covers  the  site  formerly 
occupied  by  the  Indian  pueblo  of  that  name.  Some  50  years  ago  the 
ground  roundabout  the  town  began  to  subside  and  the  place  was  grad- 
ually engulfed. 

The  Climate  is  hot  in  the  southern  and  central  regions,  cold  in  the 
northern  or  mountainous  districts  and  temperate  on  the  mountain  slopes. 
Malarial  fevers  are  not  uncommon  in  the  lowlands.  The  Fauna  and 
Flora  are  rich  and  varied.  The  forests  contain  fine  woods,  and  the 
flowers  and  agricultural  products  are  those  of  the  temperate  and  the 
torrid  zones.  The  state  is  celebrated  for  its  delicious  fruits;  and,  owing 
to  the  richness  of  the  soil,  nearly  every  district  produces  some  unusually 
fine  variety.  Tlayacopan  is  renowned  for  its  delicious  plums;  Totolopan 
for  its  chirimoyas ; Tlalnepanila  for  peaches;  Jonacatepec  for  limes  and 
pitahayas ; Y autepec  for  mameyes  and  oranges;  Oaxatepec  for  bananas; 
Tetecala  for  cocoa-nuts;  Jojutla  for  melons,  and  Cuernavaca  for  mangoes 
and  guavas.  Sugar-cane  is  produced  in  large  quantities,  and  many  sugar 
estates  — chief  among  them  the  old  estate  of  Herman  Cortes  — lie  con- 
tiguous to  Cuernavaca.  This  region  is  also  renowned  for  the  production 
of  chocolate,  quince-wine  and  a delicious  sweet  made  from  the  fruit  of 
guava  and  called  quay  abate.  A similar  sweet,  made  from  quince  and 
called  membrillate,  is  shipped  to  many  parts  of  the  Repub.  The  annual 
export  value  of  cane  products  — sugar,  rum  and  molasses  — is  about 
three  million  pesos. 


47.  From  ( Mexico  City)  Cuernavaca  to  Puente  de 
Ixtla,  Iguala  and  Balsas. 

173  Kilom.  One  train  daily  (through  from  Mexico  City,  Rte.  46)  in 
7 hrs. 

Cuernavaca , see  p.  436.  The  line  curves  to  the  1.  and  follows 
the  ridge  on  which  the  town  is  poised.  As  we  descend  the  val- 
ley we  get  beguiling  views  of  the  town  dominated  by  ch.  spires, 
on  the  r.,  and  of  Popocatepetl,  Iztaccihuatl  and  Ajusco  on 
the  1.  132  K.  Mango,  so  named  for  the  delicious  mangoes  which 
grow  in  the  neigh borhood.  The  Mexican  variety,  which  pre- 
dominates here,  resembles  a fine  apple  with  rosy  cheeks. 
It  is  less  popular  than  the  pale  yellow  Manila  mango  with 
its  strong  turpentine  flavor  and  it  sells  for  % the  price  of  the 
latter. 


Tax  co. 


IGUALA  TO  TAXCO  48.  Route.  457 


139  K.  Vicente.  143  K.  Sollano.  156  K.  Treinla.  The  country  grows 
more  and  more  tropical  and  we  traverse  a land  of  beautiful  hills  and 
dales  dotted  with  sugar-plantations.  162  K.  Zacatepsc.  163  K.  San 
Nicolas.  168  K.  Hermosa.  172  K.  Vidal.  181  K.  Puente  de  Ixtla, 
terminus  of  the  Morelos  Division  of  the  Interoceanic  Rly:,  Rte.  49,  p.  461 . 
183  K.  Amor.  190  K.  Cajones . We  enter  the  State  of  Guerrero . celebrated 
for  its  revolutionary  heroes,  its  fabulously  rich  mines,  undeveloped 
resources,  Indian  ruins  and  earthquakes.  201  K.  Santa  Fe.  213  K. 
Vista.  219  K.  Pimentel.  224  K.  Los  Amantes.  231  K.  Naranjo. 

238  K.  Iguala  (2,411  ft.),  pop.  12,000,  one  of  the  largest  and 
most  important  towns  ( Distrito  de  Hidalgo ) in  the  state,  is 
known  politically  as  Iguala  de  Iturbide}  for  the  celebrated 
“ Plan  de  Iguala  ” of  the  “ Three  Guarantees,”  and  as  the  place 
where  (Feb.  24,  1821)  Mexican  Independence  was  proclaimed. 
A giant  obelisk  to  commemorate  this  is  one  of  the  projects  of 
the  local  government.  The  town  lies  in  the  centre  of  a rich 
mining  and  agricultural  district  with  many  huge  tamarind 
trees.  It  was  visited  in  April,  1907,  by  one  of  the  most  destruc- 
tive earthquakes  in  its  history;  many  houses  were  destroyed, 
and  some  of  the  old  historic  buildings  were  badly  shaken.  Cab 
from  the  station  to  the  town,  25  c.  For  a continuation  of  the 
journey  see  p.  458. 

48.  From  Iguala  to  Taxco. 

Taxco,  an  old  and  highly  picturesque  town,  lies  about  5 hrs.  ride 
(horse  or  mule  back,  $2  to  S3)  to  the  N.-E.  at  the  end  of  a mountainous 
road.  The  south-bound  traveller  whose  destination  is  Taxco  can  save 
time  by  planning  to  have  horses  meet  him  at  Naranjo  station,  1 hr. 
nearer  than  Iguala.  The  road  winds  up  and  down  the  mt.  sides  and  along 
the  edges  of  precipices  where  only  the  most  sure-footed  animals  (mules 
are  preferable)  can  pass  in  safety.  Juan  Ruiz  de  Alarcon  y Mendoza,  poet, 
dramatist,  and  a prominent  figure  in  the  Spanish  literature  of  the  17th 
cent.,  was  born  in  Taxco , and  the  first  silver  sent  from  the  mines  of  New 
Spain  to  Europe  was  obtained  from  those  of  Taxco , discovered  in  1522. 

“ Taxco  (says  Mr.  Baxter)  holds  foremost  place  in  the  charm  of  pic- 
turesque enchantment.  Spreading  itself  over  a slope  at  an  altitude  of 
about  5,000  ft.  above  the  sea,  the  little  city  is  sheltered  from  inclement 
winds  by  the  giant  precipices  of  ruddy  stone  that  rise  perpendicularly 
above  it,  rejoicing  in  a perfect  climate  and  an  air  that  is  tonic  and  kindly. 
Extending  over  the  irregular  ground  the  mass  of  quaint  buildings, 
roofed  with  red  tiles,  is  threaded  by  a maze  of  narrow  streets.  There  is 
not  a wheeled  vehicle  in  the  city,  for  the  place  is  inaccessible  by  such 
means.  The  streets  are  paved  with  pebbles  laid  level  from  house  to  house 
without  sidewalks,  and  are  ornamented  in  mosaic  patterns  here  and 
there.  There  is  no  dust  and  the  thoroughfares  are  models  of  cleanliness. 
Out  of  the  midst  of  all  this  irregularity  of  ravines,  arches,  bridges,  steps, 
and  terraces,  rises  the  great  church  — the  dominant  note  in  a scene  that 
recalls  some  of  those  wonderfully  picturesque  places  in  Spain.  In  such 
a landscape  the  florid  ornateness  of  the  towers  is  not  excessive  in  effect. 
The  great  dome,  decorated  with  glazed  tiles  in  vivid  masses  of  color  — 
ultramarine,  orange,  green  and  white  — seems,  in  the  intense  sunlight 
of  the  place,  like  the  blossoming  of  some  gigantic  tropical  flower  pro- 
claiming in  the  language  of  form  the  immortal  words  inscribed  upon  the 
frieze  of  the  drum : ‘ Gloria  a Dios  en  las  alturas ’ — Glory  to  God  on  the 
heights  — as  the  Spanish  version  renders  it  most  fittingly  for  this  occa- 
sion. 

“This  church  of  Taxco,  dedicated  to  San  Sebastian  y Santa  Prisca,  was 
erected  by  the  famous  mining  magnate  Jose  de  la  Borda  (comp.  p.  441) 
and  completed  in  the  year  1757.  A very  large  portion  of  his  fortune 


45S  Route  48.  IGUALA  TO  TAXCO 


Balsas. 


having  been  derived  from  his  extensive  and  extraordinarily  profitable 
mining  properties  at  Taxco,  he  built  this  superb  church  in  gratitude  for 
the  benefits  received.  The  cost  is  variously  estimated  from  one  to  8 
millions  of  pesos.  Everything  about  the  ch.,  even  to-day,  indicates  that 
the  purpose  of  the  founder  must  have  been  to  excel  everything  previ- 
ously done  in  Mexico  and  to  spare  no  expense  in  reaching  that  end.  It 
is  perhaps  the  most  complete  monument  of  ecclesiastical  art  that  exists 
in  the  western  hemisphere.  It  even  surpassed  that  of  the  Valenciana 
(p.  144)  as  a splendid  example  of  what  may  be  called  a ‘mining  church.’ 
These  two  churches  are  perhaps  the  two  finest  instances  of  their  kind 
ever  erected  in  all  Mexico,  as  they  certainly  are  the  finest  now  existing. 
And  having  been  preserved  in  their  original  condition  with  scrupulous 
care  they  are  invaluable  monuments  of  past  magnificence.  An  un- 
pleasant quality  is  imparted  to  the  Taxco  ch.  by  the  same  contraction 
of  the  tower-bases  that  in  a worse  degree  appears  in  the  Tlaxcala  ch.  of 
Ocotlan  (p.  428),  producing  an  overhang  in  the  ornate  part  of  the  towers 
and  correspondingly  weakening  the  total  effect  while  unduly  narrowing 
the  facade.  Doubtless  the  impression  made  was  something  deliberately 
aimed  at,  the  disproportional  effect  of  loftiness  not  seeming  undesirable 
in  the  period  when  the  ch.  was  designed.  Had  the  towers  fundamentally 
been  given  the  full  width  of  the  cornices  the  effect  would  have  been 
immensely  better.  As  it  is,  there  is  a sacrifice  of  the  massiveness  that 
commonly  characterizes  this  feature  in  Spanish-Colonial  architecture. 
It  w’ill  be  noted  that  the  ornament  of  the  facade  has  more  of  the  Rococo 
than  the  Chur  rig  ueresque  character.  The  latter  style,  however,  obtains 
in  the  elaborate  7 etablos  of  the  interior.  There  are  twelve  of  these,  includ- 
ing the  three  in  the  All  Souls  Chapel,  the  CapiXla  de  Todos  Muertos.  The 
interior,  though  lacking  in  repose  in  its  surfaces,  is  splendid  in  its  effect 
of  exceeding  richness.  Moreover,  its  mural  decoration,  by  the  hand  of 
one  painter  throughout,  imparts  a sense  of  unity  that  goes  far  to  offset 
the  disquieting  feeling  of  uneasy  decoration  in  structural  parts.  Besides 
the  pulpit  there  are  two  confessionals,  and  all  three  are  richly  carved  in 
dark  wood.  The  floor,  which  in  recent  years  was  relaid  in  a polished  light 
wood,  w’as  originally  entirely  covered  with  a superb  great  India  carpet 
imported  by  way  of  Manila  and  Acapulco.  A fragment  of  this  is  still 
preserved  in  the  sacristy,  where  it  serves  as  a rug.  The  pendentives  of 
the  dome  are  occupied  by  reliefs  in  gold,  representing  the  Guadalupe 
legend.  The  mural  decorations  are  entirely  by  Miguel  Cabrera  (p.  cli) 
and  the  famous  painter  shows  at  his  best  in  this  work.  The  upper  part  of 
the  two  bays  that  are  occupied  respectively  by  the  side  entrance  and  by 
the  entrance  from  the  ch.  into  the  chapel  of  Todos  Muertos  are  occupied 
by  great  canvases  depicting  the  martyrdoms  of  the  two  patron  saints 
of  the  ch.,  San  Sebastian  and  Santa  Prisca.  The  organ,  built  in  1806,  in 
design  and  color  harmonizes  writh  its  surroundings.  The  sacristy  is  a 
magnificent  room.  The  walls  are  covered  with  huge  canvases  by  Cabrera 
— a beautiful  Nativity  at  the  head,  and  Ascension  of  the  Virgin  at  the 
opposite  end,  and  twelve  scenes  from  the  life  of  Christ  and  of  the  Virgin 
filling  six  art  panels  at  the  sides.  The  furnishing  of  the  sacristy  is 
extraordinarily  rich  — carved  tables,  chairs,  estanles , and  heavy  gold 
ornamentation  for  the  two  pairs  of  mirrors,  the  Crucifix,  the  lavamanos , 
etc.  In  the  sala  capitular , or  chapter-room,  are  portraits  of  Borda  and 
other  dignitaries,  by  Cabrera .”  The  atrium  is  in  the  form  of  an  open 
plinth,  reached  bv  four  short  steps.  It  is  the  custom  of  many  of  the 
towns-people  to  pray  before  the  ch.  An  early  morning  assemblage, 
kneeling  and  facing  the  entrance,  leaves  a pleasing  impression.  The 
towers  should  be  ascended  for  the  sake  of  the  view,  which  is  very  fine. 

Iguala,  see  p.  457.  The  rly.  runs  toward  the  S.-W.  through 
a beautiful  country  drained  by  tributaries  of  the  Balsas  River. 
257  K.  Cocula.  262  K.  Apipilulco.  274  K.  Olea.  284  K.  Arroz. 

293  K.  Balsas,  present  terminus  of  the  line.  Many  produc- 
tive mines  lie  to  the  S.  and  W.  of  the  town.  The  Placeres  de 
Oro  district  is  reached  by  a raft  or  boat  which  shoots  the  Rio 
Balsas  Rapids.  (See  next  page.) 


CHILPANCINGO  DE  LOS  BRAVOS  ifi.  Rte.  459 


Rafting  on  the  Rio  Balsas  (pools)  is  exhilarating  and  delightful 
sport.  The  boatmen  are  Indians  who  know  every  bend  and  rock  on  the 
river,  and  they  shoot  the  rapids  with  great  dexterity.  The  finest  of  these 
shallow  falls  occur  between  the  Balsas  Rly.  Sta.  and  the  town  of  Coyuca 
de  Catalan,  the  landing-point  for  the  rich  mining  district  of  Placeres  de 
Oro  (Gold  Placers)  4 hrs.  distant  (horseback)  over  a mountainous  road. 
The  trip  is  made  (18  hrs.)  in  flat-bottom  barges  (25  ft.  long  by  7 ft.  wide) 
made  of  parota  wood  and  manned  by  five  or  six  lusty  Indian  rivermen. 
A bargain  should  be  reached  before  embarking.  The  usual  charge  for 
the  journey  is  $100  for  the  trip  from  Balsas  to  P.  de  Oro.  Double  this 
amount  to  the  Pacific  Port  of  Acapulco,  5 days’  journey  from  Balsas. 
(17  days  are  required  to  haul  the  boat  up  the  rapids  from  P.  de  O.  to 
Balsas.)  Provender  should  be  taken  along,  as  the  food  the  Indians  might 
furnish  (for  a price)  would  be  distasteful  to  foreigners.  A steam-launch 
service  for  this  river  is  contemplated. 

The  most  dangerous  rapids  are  met  stern  foremost,  and  as  no  tiller  or 
helm  is  used,  the  craft  is  managed  by  two  oarsmen  at  the  bow  and  a pair 
at  the  stern,  while  the  captain  stands  at  the  stern  and  guides  it  by  means 
of  a stout  oar.  Hunters  will  find  the  trip  full  of  opportunities.  Alligators, 
crocodiles,  deer,  ducks,  geese,  and  small  game  abound.  White  and  pink 
herons  are  often  seen.  In  certain  districts  “ gold  ships”  dredge  the  river, 
bringing  up  gold-bearing  sand  from  the  bottom.  Miles  of  auriferous 
gravel  are  found  along  the  stream.  We  encounter  one  of  the  worst  rapids 
at  Tomistlahuacan,  2 hrs.  from  Balsas  station.  The  boat  dashes  through 
the  water  at  high  speed,  and  skill  is  required  to  keep  it  clear  of  the  rocks. 
The  scenery  is  magnificent  — a succession  of  mountains,  fine  barrancas 
and  valleys,  along  which  one  catches  glimpses  of  blue-peaked  ranges 
beyond.  We  reach  Tetela  del  Rio  9 hrs.  after  leaving  Balsas,  and  soon 
thereafter  we  come  to  the  estuary  of  the  Teotepec  River.  Camp  is  made 
for  the  night  at  a spot  near  Pezoapan,  3 hrs.  further  down.  At  daybreak 
the  journey  is  continued  through  a wild  and  picturesque  canon.  Beyond 
the  gorge  is  a fine  valley  region,  studded  with  little  towns,  prominent 
among  them  Santo  Tomas,  San  Cristobal,  Ajuchitldn,  Tepehuala  and 
San  Miguel  Totlapam.  The  river  broadens  (100  to  300  yards  wide)  and 
toward  dusk  the  boat  is  beached  at  Coyuca  de  Catalan.  Travellers  bound 
for  Placeres  del  Oro  will  have  no  trouble  in  securing  mounts  for  the  jour- 
ney, but  a bargain  should  be  struck  with  the  stableman,  who  should 
also  furnish  a mozo  as  a guide  and  to  care  for  the  horses.  $2  to  $3  for  a 
horse  is  ample. 

Ghilpancingo  de  los  Bravos,  known  also  as  Ciudad  Bravos  (in  honor  of 
the  revolutionary  heroes  Nicolas,  Leonardo  and  Miguel  Bravo),  capital 
of  the  State  of  Guerrero  (pop.  7,497),  is  78  M.  S.-W.  of  Iguala  and  is 
reached  therefrom  on  horseback  ($8  to  $10  for  the  trip)  over  a fair  road. 
A better  highway,  suitable  for  carriages  and  a diligence  line,  is  one  of 
the  government  projects.  The  town  lies  in  the  centre  of  a highly  volcanic 
district,  picturesquely  situated  in  a fertile  valley  on  the  bank  of  the 
Huacapa  River,  near  the  arroyo  of  Apatzingo.  Many  fine  fruit  orchards 
surround  it.  Fine  palm  hats  and  mats  are  made  in  the  neighborhood. 
The  first  Mexican  Congress  was  celebrated  here  Sept.  13,  1813.  The 
town  formerly  contained  many  quaint  and  interesting  edifices,  some  of 
them  of  great  historic  value  to  the  Mexicans,  but  repeated  earthquakes 
have  about  ruined  them.  The  shock  of  Feb.  1902  was  particularly  severe 
and  600  or  more  houses  were  destroyed.  The  fine  bronze  statue  of 
Nicolas  Bravo  in  the  Plaza  de  Armas,  was  broken  at  the  waist  and  the 
bust  tumbled  to  the  ground.  The  earthquake  of  April,  1907,  killed  and 
injured  scores  of  persons  and  destroyed  many  of  the  buildings  that 
survived  the  prior  temblor.  Chilpancingo  (Aztec  = place  of  the  wasps) 
is  mentioned  as  one  of  the  sources  whence  Montezuma  drew  some  of  the 
gold  which  so  dazzled  the  Conquistador es.  Many  beautiful  gold  orna- 
ments of  rare  and  antique  workmanship  have  been  exhumed  in  the 
vicinity.  Archaeologists  assert  that  the  mysterious  race  which  once 
dwelt  here  was  cultured,  and  lived  on  an  intellectual  plane  far  above 
that  of  the  Aztecs.  Their  craftsmen  were  unusually  adept,  and  the 
metal  articles  fashioned  by  them  exhibit  a taste  and  skill  but  little 
inferior  to  the  best  modern  work.  To  the  N.-W.  of  the  town  are  extens- 


460  Route  4 8 . STATE  OF  GUERRERO  Acapulco . 

ive  ruins  that  were  perhaps  hoary  with  age  when  the  first  Spaniard 
lauded  in  Mexico.  Certain  hieroglyphs  on  the  ruins  of  the  stone  buildings 
resemble  Egyptian  characters,  and  the  copper  and  gold  ornaments,  and 
the  ancient  objects  disinterred  attest  a degree  of  civilization  more  closely 
allied  to  the  Toltec  than  to  the  Aztec. 

The  Maritime  State  of  Guerrero  (warrior),  named  for  the  Mexican 
insurgent  General  Vicente  Guerrero  (pop.  479,205,  area  64,756  sqr. 
kilom.),  a rough,  mountainous  and  but  partly  explored  region  (one  of 
the  richest  mineral  sections  on  the  continent),  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by 
the  states  of  Mexico  and  Morelos,  on  the  N.-E.  by  Puebla,  on  the  E.  and 
S.-E.  by  Oiixaca  and  on  the  S.-W.  by  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Coast-line  500 
kilom.  The  principal  port  is  Acapulco  (below).  The  Sierra  Madre  del  Sur 
traverses  the  state  and  reaches  its  highest  point  at  the  Peak  of  Teotepec 
(9,333  ft.).  The  Climate,  with  a mean  temperature  of  about  90°  Fahr., 
is  cold  in  the  mountains,  temperate  in  the  valleys  lying  6,000  ft.  or  more 
above  the  tierra  caliente,  and  hot  on  the  coast.  The  Fauna  and  Flora, 
though  known  to  be  rich  and  varied,  are  not  all  recorded.  The  former 
embraces  over  55  species  of  mammals,  80  birds,  50  reptiles,  5 batrachians, 
40  fishes,  and  countless  insects.  More  than  150  trees,  many  of  them  fine 
cabinet  and  dye-woods,  are  known  to  thrive  within  the  state  borders. 
There  are  75  known  fruits,  33  textile  plants,  17  tanning,  15  oleaginous, 
25  dye,  10  forage,  20  aromatic,  and  as  many  poisonous  plants,  beside  200 
medicinal  plants,  40  gums  and  resins,  and  almost  numberless  ornamental 
shrubs  and  flowers.  In  the  vast  tropical  forests  are  cedar,  oak,  mahog- 
any, laurel,  pine,  ebony,  mangrove,  and  a host  of  forest  trees,  prominent 
among  them  a native  tree  known  as  quiebrahacha  (break- axe),  on  ac- 
count of  its  exceeding  hardness.  The  fruits  are  as  numerous  as  they  are 
delicious.  Bananas,  oranges,  pineapples,  lemons,  limes,  pomegranates, 
guavas,  cocoa-nuts,  tamarinds,  mangoes,  mamayes,  aguacates,  chico- 
zapotes,  and  an  almost  endless  variety  of  tropical  and  sub-tropical 
fruits  are  found.  The  chief  products  are  sesame  seeds,  cereals,  tobacco, 
vanilla,  coffee,  cacao,  cotton,  sugar-cane,  indigo,  yuca  (p.  547),  mid 
cattle.  Cattle-ranches  are  numerous,  the  value  of  the  stock  being 
estimated  at  S3, 000, 000.  Wild  animals  are  numerous  in  certain  regions. 
Wild-boar,  leopards,  ounces,  deer,  armadillos,  wolves,  coyotes,  and 
badgers  are  common.  Many  beautiful  birds  people  the  forests,  and  white 
herons,  ducks,  pheasants,  chachalacas,  widgeon,  and  divers  haunt  the 
lowlands  and  marshes.  Pearl-fisheries  exist  along  the  coast  near  Aca- 
pulco and  Tecpan , and  much  of  the  tortoise-shell  one  sees  in  Mexico  comes 
from  this  district.  Petroleum  springs  are  found  in  the  district  of  Tabares. 
Many  mountain  streams  dash  from  the  highlands  to  the  coast,  where 
they  mix  their  waters  with  those  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  most  impor- 
tant river  is  the  Mexcala , or  Balsas,  which  enters  Guerrero  from  Oaxaca 
on  the  E.,  crosses  the  state,  penetrates  Michoacan , where  it  is  known  as 
El  Rio  de  las  Balsas,  and  after  a run  of  700  kilom.  it  empties  into  the 
Pacific  near  Zacatula.  It  is  navigable  for  steamers  for  a few  miles  only 
from  its  mouth.  In  places  it  is  shallow,  swift,  and  precipitous,  in  others, 
wide  and  deep.  The  mines  (incompletely  developed)  produce  gold, 
silver,  mercury,  lead,  iron,  coal,  and  sulphur.  Granite  and  marble  are 
quarried,  and  three  varieties  of  opals  and  topazes  are  found.  The  mines 
in  operation  number  about  350.  The  Caves  of  Cacahuamilpa  (p.  454) 
rank  among  the  largest  caves  in  America.  In  certain  districts,  notably 
about  La  Trinidad , some  of  the  natives  are  afflicted  with  a species  of 
leprosy  called  Pinto.  Black  spots  come  out  on  the  face  and  spread  until 
the  entire  face  is  covered  with  a blue-black  blotch  wrhich  imparts  a repul- 
sive appearance.  An  Indian  legend  avers  that  it  first  came  from  eating 
crocodile  meat.  The  disease,  which  rarely  attacks  foreigners,  is  perhaps 
contagious  only  through  contact.  It  is  also  prevalent  in  certain  parts 
of  Chiapas  Stale  (p.  569). 

Like  others  of  the  Mexican  states,  Guerrero  needs  only  capital  and  enter- 

f)rise  to  bring  its  many  riches  into  profitable  fruition.  The  traces  of  petro- 
eum  which  have  been  found  lead  experts  to  believe  that  some  day  oil  may 
be  located  there  in  quantities  as  great  as  in  Vera  Cruz  and  Tamaulipas. 
The  tropical  character  of  the  three  states  is  similar.  Oil  men  are  already 
turning  their  attention  thither.  Few  districts  in  the  Republic  possess  greater 
material  w'ealth. 


MEXICO  CITY  TO  ACAPULCO  49.  Rte . 461 


Acapulco  (Aztec  — where  there  are  canes,  or  reeds),  a promising  port 
on  the  Pacific  Ocean,  495  Kilom.  from  Mexico  City,  and  with  harbor  facili- 
ties for  a hundred  or  more  deep  sea  vessels,  slopes  back  from  the  shore 
between  a range  of  low  hills,  has  a pop.  of  about  6,000,  and  is  known  politi- 
cally as  Acapulco  de  Judrez.  Port  works  are  projected  which  will  materially 
increase  its  importance.  It  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  best  known  of  the 
Mexican  port  towns.  The  residents  are  known  as  Acapulcanos  (and  Acapul- 
quenos , as). 

Steamships.  The  big  steamers  of  the  Mexican  States  Line  ( Hudson , 
Billings  & Co.  agents),  the. Pacific  Mail  S.  S.  Co.  ( Hudson , Billings  & Co. 
Agts.),  and  the  Mexican  Navigation  Co.  ( B . Ferndndez  & Co.  Sues.,  agentes ) 
maintain  a frequent  service  northward  to  Canada  and  southward  to  Central 
America. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  El  Jardin,  El  Pacifico;  rates  from  $2.  up  per  day. 

In  1532  the  Spanish  Brigantines  San  Miguel  and  S.  Marcos  sailed  hence 
and  discovered  Colima,  a number  of  islands,  and  the  Gulf  of  California. 
The  Mexican  Protomartyr,  San  Felipe  de  Jesus  (p.  325),  sailed  from  this 
port  in  1591  for  Nagasaki,  Japan,  where  he  was  killed.  The  port  was 
stormed  and  taken  by  the  patriot  Morelos  in  1813.  A big  annual  fair  is 
held  here.  Acapulco  was  long  the  port  of  entry  for  the  rich  Spanish  galleons 
from  the  Philippines.  Bret  Harte,  in  his  “ Lost  Galleon,”  referred  to  Acapulco 
as  follows: 

“ In  sixteen  hundred  and  forty-one, 

The  regular  yearly  galleon, 

Laden  with  odorous  gums  and  spice, 

India  cotton  and  India  rice, 

And  the  richest  silks  of  far  Cathay, 

Was  due  at  Acapulco  Bay. 

The  trains  were  waiting  outside  the  walls, 

The  wives  of  sailors  thronged  the  town. 

The  traders  sat  by  their  empty  stalls, 

And  the  Viceroy  himself  came  down; 

The  bells  in  the  tower  were  all  atrip, 

Te  Deums  were  on  each  father’s  lip, 

The  limes  were  ripening  in  the  sun 
For  the  sick  of  the  coming  galleon.” 

49.  From  Mexico  City  to  Amecameca,  Cuauhtla 
and  Puente  de  Ixtla. 

Interoceanic  Railroad  (Morelos  Division).  One  through  train  (to  218  K. 
Puente  de  Ixtla)  daily  in  10  hrs.  Two  trains  daily  (in  about  5 hrs.  — ex- 
cursion tickets)  to  137  K.  Cuauhtla,  which  is  also  reached  from  Puebla  (p. 
508,  consult  the  Guia  Oficial).  Two  trains  daily  to  58  K.  Amecameca 
(in  3 hrs.).  Trains  from  Mex.  City  depart  from  the  San  Lazaro  Station 
(PI.  J,  4),  \ M.  east  of  the  Palacio  Nacional,  and  about  15  min.  in  a cab,  or 
25  min.  in  a tram-car  from  the  Buena  Vista  or  the  Colonia  stations.  Rly. 
restaurant.  — For  railway  fares  to  the  different  points  see  p.  xxxi. 

Mexico  City,  see  p.  233.  — The  train  runs  due  E.  through  a 
district  not  distinguished  for  cleanliness.  These  suburbs  are 
among  the  tawdriest  of  the  capital  — and  are  perhaps  the 
oldest.  On  the  1.  is  the  big  Penitentiary  (p.  368)  with  the 
Escuela  de  Tiro  — artillery  practice  school.  In  the  early  morn- 
ing many  burro-trains  laden  with  fruits,  vegetables,  huge  bun- 
dles of  chopped  hay  compressed  in  big  nets,  charcoal  and  the 
like,  pass  along  this  highway  bound  cityward.  Much  of  the  fruit 
and  garden-truck  consumed  in  the  capital  enters  from  this 
direction.  At  the  close  of  the  rainy  season  the  lowlands  round- 


462  Route  1+9. 


AMECAMECA 


8 aero  Monte, 


about  are  apt  to  be  flooded;  then  Indian  canoeists  use  the 
fluvial  strips  as  waterways  to  the  suburbs,  while  dense  flocks 
of  wild-fowl  make  the  region  their  rendezvous.  The  hamlets 
through  which  the  rly.  passes  call  for  no  special  mention. 

After  leaving  (18  K.)  Los  Reyes , amid  pulque  fields,  the  line  winds 
around  the  hills  and  crosses  many  small  milpas  (corn-fields)  and  fincas 
(country  estates).  Maize  and  pulque  are  the  chief  products.  At  (25  K.) 
Ayolla , Indian  women  pass  to  and  fro  before  the  cars  offering  tortillas 
and  native  “goodies”  of  questionable  cleanliness  for  sale.  29  K.  Santa 
Barbara.  We  cross  the  rails  of  the  Ferrocarril  de  Rio  Frio  35  K.  Com - 
pai'iia.  Crossing  of  the  F.  C.  San  Rafael  y Anexas.  42  K.  Temamatla.  A 
quaint  church  (a  relic  of  Colonial  days)  stands  about  i M.  to  the  r.  of  the 
line.  The  encompassing  land  is  under  high  cultivation,  with  Indian 
maize  as  the  staple.  The  line  sweeps  around  the  hills  on  an  up-grade. 
During  the  rainy  season  the  region  teems  with  wild-flowTers.  47  K. 
Tenango.  48  K Tepopula.  53  K.  Bautista.  55  K.  Ayapango , with  a 
weather-beaten  ch.  The  region  is  idealized  by  the  splendid  cone  of 
Popocatepetl,  which  rises  near.  Wooded  hills  hem  in  the  valley  on  the  1. 
The  district  is  finely  watered  by  the  cold  streams  of  melted  snow  which 
plunge  down  from  the  acclivities  of  the  Popocatepetl  range.  For  a con- 
tinuation of  the  journey  beyond  Amecameca , see  p.  465. 

58  K.  Amecameca  (7,600  ft.),  a scattered  town  of  14,000  inhab.  — 
among  them  many  beggars.  It  stands  at  the  base  of  the  Popocatepetl 
and  Iztaccihuatl  mts.  (charming  views)  in  the  midst  of  wide  milpas , and 
is  celebrated  throughout  Mexico  for  the  Sacro  Monte  (sacred  mt.)  — an 
elongated  hill  (about  400  ft.  high)  immediately  at  the  r.  of  the  rly. 
station.  On  the  summit  of  this  hill,  nestling  amid  fine  trees,  on  a spot 
w hich  recalls  certain  of  the  sacrosanct  cryptomeria-embowered  shrines 
of  Nippon,  is  a small  ch.  built  around  a cave  (now  the  ch.  camarin ) wrhich 
was  once  the  home  of  a very  holy  man,  Fray  Martin  de  Valencia,  one  of 
the  12  Apostles  (p.  324)  who  reached  Mexico  in  1523.  This  pious  man 
was  greatl y revered  by  the  simple  Indios  and  after  his  death  his  body 
w’as  brought  hither  and  buried  in  the  cave.  Time  converted  him  into  a 
santo,  and  his  grave  is  the  Mecca  of  many  thousands  of  Indians  who  come 
hither  during  Holy  Week  (Ash  Wednesday)  to  revere  his  memory. 

They  come  also  to  worship  an  image  of  Christ,  called  the  Santo  En- 
tierro,  said  by  some  to  have  been  made  by  the  good  friar  himself.  Others 
pin  their  faith  to  a number  of  legends  which  refer  to  the  alleged  miracul- 
ous origin  of  the  figure.  This  image,  undoubtedly  of  high  antiquity,  is 
very  light  and  is  perhaps  made  of  the  pith  of  the  maize.  The  Indians 
form  processions,  carry  the  figure  (which  reclines  in  a glass  case)  from 
place  to  place,  and  conduct  impressive  and  very  picturesque  ceremonies. 
A stone  stairway,  terraced  out  of  the  hillside,  leads  to  the  shrine,  which 
contains  many  ex-votos  and  Indian  offerings.  Hard  by  this  ch.  is 
the  Capilla  de  Guadalupe,  whence  a splendid  view  of  the  environing 
country  may  be  had.  This  chapel  and  the  sacred  shrine  are  figures 
in  a sort  of  Passion  Play  which  the  Indian  devotees  enact  here.  Certain 
of  the  most  frenzied  ones  follow  the  Hindu  custom  of  approaching  the 
shrine  in  a crawling  attitude.  Others  stand  in  ecstatic  positions  for 
hours.  A multitude  of  them  hang  their  unwashed  garments  on  the 
adjacent  trees  for  the  spirit  of  the  saint  to  bless  them  — and  to  purify 
the  polluted  air.  After  nightfall,  many  of  the  Indians  carry  torches,  and 
the  effect  is  weird. 

Prior  to  the  Spanish  invasion  the  town  of  Amecameca  was  the  metro- 
polis for  a vast  Indian  population  which  dwelt  in  the  region  roundabout, 
ltelics  of  these  peoples  are  the  myriad  bits  of  broken  pottery,  the  obsidian 
arrow-heads  and  whatnot  which  can  still  be  picked  up  in  the  ploughed 
fields  adjacent.  A trench  dug  across  any  near-by  field  usually  uncovers 
Indian  graves  containing  pottery  (desirable  souvenirs,  no  restrictions 
against  digging),  idols  and  household  gods  of  clay.  The  churches,  of 
which  there  are  several,  are  weather-beaten  relics  hoary  with  age.  The 
Pnrroquia  (dedicated  to  Nuestra  Sefiora  de  la  Asuncion)  was  erected  (in 
1709)  on  the  site  of  a primitive  ch.  built  by  the  Spaniards  in  1547.  Many 


POPOCATEPETL  49.  Route.  463 

of  the  oldest  and  most  interesting  buildings  were  destroyed  by  the  earth- 
quake of  1884. 

Amecameca  is  the  usual  starting-point  for  the  Ascent  of  Popocatepetl 
and  Iztaccihuatl.  Guides  and  outfits  can  be  secured  at  the  Inns,  which 
are  near  the  rly.  station.  The  traveller  can  perhaps  work  to  better 
advantage  by  securing  his  outfit  at  Mex.  City,  and  picking  up  guides  at 
Amecameca.  The  customary  plan  is  to  breakfast  at  the  Inn  and  start  (on 
horseback)  about  8 a.  m.  for  the  foothills;  arrive  at  La  Canada  Canon 
at  11  a.  m.  and  stop  1 hr.  for  rest  and  luncheon.  Paraja  is  reached  (horse- 
back) at  about  2 p.  m.,  and  Tlamacas  (12,788  ft.)  at  5 p.  m.  Stop  for  the 
night  in  a hut,  or  rest-house.  Supper  at  7;  breakfast  at  6 a.  m.  A start 
(on  horseback)  is  made  at  7 a.  m.,  and  La  Cruz  (so-called  for  a huge 
wooden  cross  hard  by)  is  gained  (14,104  ft.)  at  9.  The  horses  remain  here 
and  the  remainder  of  the  journey  is  made  on  foot.  If  but  little  snow  is 
encountered,  and  the  climbers  have  fortitude  and  perseverance  (neces- 
sary for  the  last  portion  of  the  road),  the  summit  should  be  reached  about 
1 p.  m.  Persons  suffering  from  heart  trouble  should  not  attempt  to  go 
higher  than  La  Cruz , from  which  station  a magnificent  panorama  is  vis- 
ible— one  which  well  repays  the  effort  to  reach  the  point. 

The  descent  can  generally  be  made  quite  speedily.  La  Cruz  can  be 
reached  in  from  \ hr.  to  2 hrs.  according  to  prevailing  conditions.  The 
traveller  is  advised  to  essav  the  highly  exciting  (and  not  dangerous)  ex- 
perience of  sliding,  a la  toboggan,  to  timber-line,  with  the  attraction  of 
gravitation  as  the  motive  power.  When  the  snow  is  smooth  and  does 
not  cake,  the  journey  is  made  seated  on  a straw  mat  ( petate ) guided  by 
an  Indian  carrying  a long  alpenstock  — a man  who  knows  every  foot  of 
the  road  and  who  skilfully  avoids  rocks  and  crevasses.  He  seats  him- 
self on  the  mat,  pulls  up  the  front  edge,  grasps  his  stick,  wnich  he  uses 
as  a brake,  is  in  turn  grasped  around  the  waist  by  the  passenger  seated 
behind  him,  and,  in  a vertiginous  and  extraordinarily  exhilarating  swoop, 
the  traveller  finds  himself  at  snow-line  almost  before  he  has  realized  that 
he  was  under  way.  The  station  at  the  snow-line,  with  its  awe-inspiring 
vistas,  is  left  late  in  the  afternoon;  supper  is  taken  at  Tlamacas,  and 
breakfast  at  6 a.  m.  The  horses  are  ready  and  a brisk  ride  down  the 
slope  and  across  the  plain  brings  one  to  Amecameca  about  10  a.  m. 

If  the  traveller  will  do  considerable  walking  and  some  climbing  for 
several  days  prior  to  the  ascent  of  the  mt.  the  exercise  will  strengthen 
the  leg  muscles  and  help  him  over  crucial  points.  The  ascent  (which 
should  never  be  undertaken  without  an  experienced  guide)  is  apt  to  be 
interrupted  by  snow-slides  during  the  rainy  season  — June-Sept.  The 
trip  is  usually  unattended  by  danger,  as  the  crevasses  are  shallow  and 
the  “going”  is  good.  The  western  slope  is  more  precipitous  than  the 
eastern.  After  a cold  rain  on  the  plateau  the  snow-line  (which  in  this 
latitude  is  usually  at  about  14,333  ft.)  descends  far  down  the  mt.  sides, 
and  contrasts  oddly  with  the  semi-tropical  vegetation  at  its  base.  The 
cost  of  the  ascent  varies  with  the  number  in  the  party,  and  the  amount 
of  equipment  taken  along.  The  inclusive  cost  from  Mexico  City  to  the 
summit  and  return  should  not  exceed  $50  each  for  a small  party,  and 
this  should  be  less  where  there  are  a half-dozen  or  more. 

Popocatepetl  (Aztec  — popoca,  smoke,  and  tepetl,  mountain),  often 
referred  to  as  Popo,  in  the  State  of  Puebla,  in  latitude  19°  10'  45"  N.; 
and  longitude  98°  36'  0"  W.  of  Greenwich,  is  one  of  the  most  interesting 
volcanoes  in  Mexico  and  was,  until  recently,  considered  the  highest  peak 
in  the  Republic.  It  is  10,300  ft.  (nearly  2 M.)  higher  than  the  Valley 
of  Mexico,  and  is  17,794  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Although  50  M. 
to  the  S.-E.  of  Mexico  City  it  dominates  that  place  like  some  hoary- 
headed  sentinel.  With  Mt.  McKinley  (in  Alaska)  22,000  ft.  first,  Orizaba 
(p.  496)  in  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz  second,  Popo  is  perhaps  the  third  high- 
est peak  in  N.  America.  According  to  Indian  traditions  it  (along  with 
Iztaccihuatl,  p.  464)  came  into  being  after  a violent  earthquake  presaged 
by  terrifying  subterranean  noises:  the  mountains  are  said  to  have  piled 
up  gradually,  vomiting  lava  and  rocks,  until  they  reached  their  present 
height.  Not  until  comparatively  recent  times  did  Popo  cease  its  spasmo- 
dic belching  of  fire  and  lava.  Because  of  its  violent  outbursts  it  has  been 
called  the  Vesuvius  of  America.  The  records  of  the  Spaniards  in  Mexico 


464  Route  J>9. 


IZTACCIHUATL 


mention  notable  eruptions  in  1519,  1523,  1539,  1548,  1571,  1592,  1642, 
16  »4,  1697,  and  1802.  In  1921  the  giant  began  to  show  signs  of  uneasiness, 
and  these  culminated,  Dec.  19,  in  a violent  outburst  of  smoke  and  gasses. 
Since  that  date  it  has  smoked  quietly  at  intervals,  and  exhaled  sulohuric 
vapors  from  the  many  breathing  holes  ( solfateras ) inside  the  crater. 

Since  the  Conquest  this  volcdn  has  been  a gigantic  brimstone  factory 
whence  many  thousands  of  tons  of  excellent  sulphur  ( azufre ) have  been 
extracted.  The  soldiers  of  Cortes  were  the  first  to  take  this  out,  and  with  it 
they  manufactured  gunpowder  with  which  to  carry  on  a successful  warfare 
against  the  owners  of  the  mountain!  More  than  one  hundred  million  tons 
were  taken  out  before  the  last  eruption.  At  that  time  four  centuries  of  ex- 
ploitation seemed  in  no  vise  to  have  diminished  the  supply. 

Volcanists  estimate  that  the  crater  floor,  which  covers  an  area  of  about 
I mile,  consists  of  an  immense  deposit  of  sulphur  a thousand  feet  deep. 
Sulphur  was  taken  from  it  by  the  crudest  methods;  laborers  descended  to 
the  crater  floor,  gathered  the  substance  in  bags  of  an  arroba  (25  lbs . ) each, 
slung  them  on  the  backs  of  peoties , and  these  climbed  to  a point  where  the 
bags  could  be  drawn  up  with  a windlass  and  rope  worked  from  the  crater’s 
edge.  Once  at  the  surface  the  bags  were  given  in  charge  of  men  who  placed 
them  on  straw  mats  and  slid  with  them  to  timber-line,  whence  they  were 
carried  to  the  railway  station.  The  workmen  walked  freely  about  on  the 
crater  floor  which,  though  apparently  solid,  contained  many  fissures  whence 
sulphur  fumes  escaped.  Liquid  sulphur  constantly  settles  about  these 
blow  holes,  and  in  some  places  it  oozes  out.  The  last  eruption  made  many 
changes  in  the  interior  of  the  volcano. 

The  crater  ( crater ) differs  from  that  of  many  volcanoes  in  that  it  is 
bell-shaped. instead  of  conical:  the  opening  at  the  top  is  about  2,700  ft. 
across  and  the  width  at  the  bottom  is  about  1,200  ft.  The  irregular  and 
jagged  rim  has  a circumference  of  about  1^  M.  The  longest  diameter 
is  from  N.  N.-E.  to  S.  S.-W.  It  is  lowest  on  the  Puebla  side,  whence  it 
is  usually  approached,  and  here  the  windlass  used  for  hoisting  sulphur 
from  the  depths  is  located.  The  line  from  this  platform  to  the  floor  of 
the  interior  is  about  550  ft.  long,  nearly  one  half  a practically  vertical 
wall,  formed  of  trachytic  and  porphyritic  rocks  covered  at  the  summit 
by  lava  thrown  out  in  past  ages.  Certain  bits  of  it  consist  of  layers  of 
black  lava  with  crystals  of  feldspar  and  brown  scoria.  Near  the  hoisting 
apparatus  is  a fantastic  ridge  called  the  Devil’s  Backbone  — Espinazo 
del  Diablo.  The  Pico  Mayor , or  the  highest  point  of  the  mt.,  is  very  diffi- 
cult of  access.  Ice  cut  from  the  glaciers  near  the  summit  is  supplied  to 
the  near-by  towns  on  the  plain.  The  view  from  the  summit,  particularly 
at  sunrise  and  sunset,  is  indescribably  grand.  The  incomparable  Valley 
of  Mexico,  with  the  domes  and  spires  of  the  capital,  and  the  many  micro- 
scopic towns  glistening  in  the  distance;  the  near-bycity  of  Puebla  (which 
from  here  merits  its  title  of  Ciudad  de  los  Angeles );  the  snow-crowned 
bulk  of  Iztaccihuatl , the  peaks  of  Orizaba , Xiantecatl , M ailacueyail,  and 
many  lesser  cones,  and  the  minor  details  of  thousands  of  square  miles  of 
cool  highlands  and  tropical  lowlands  delight  the  eye.  On  a clear  morn- 
ing the  sunrise  effects  on  the  distant  peaks  are  very  fine;  as  are  likewise 
the  violet  shadows  of  nightfall.  No  peak  in  Mexico  offers  a finer  pano- 
rama, unless  it  be  Iztaccihuatl , whence  the  view  includes  Popo  also. 

Before  attempting  to  take  pictures  of  the  crater  of  Popocatepetl  (or  any 
of  the  other  Volcan.es  in  the  Mex.  Repub.)  the  reader  may  like  to  refer  to 
Mountain  Photography,  p.  Ixxxa. 

Iztaccihuatl  Aztec,  iztac  = white,  and  cihuall  = woman),  16,200  ft. 
high,  is  linked  to  Popocatepetl  by  a deeply-curved  “saddle  ” some  2\  M. 
long.  It  is  commonly  known  as  the  “White  Woman,”  or  the  “Sleeping 
Woman.”  from  the  fancied  resemblance  to  a recumbent  female  figure. 
Cortes  caused  a military  road  to  be  built  over  the  “saddle”  and  along 
this  road  he  advanced  1519)  to  the  conquest  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico. 
The  ridge  consists  of  rolling  hills  free  from  trees:  black  volcanic  ash,  no 
doubt  the  outpourings  of  Popocatepetl , cover  the  surface.  The  broad 
summit  of  the  mt.  is  covered  by  three  peaks  which  form  the  head, 
breast  (the  highest  point),  and  the  feet  of  the  “sleeping  woman.”  The 
timber-line  is  at  about  13,054  ft.,  and  that  of  vegetation  at  13,710.  The 
region  of  eternal  snow  begins  at  14,300  ft.  In  their  search  for  sulphur 


I ZT  ACC  I H U AT  L 


49.  Route.  465 


of  which  to  make  gunpowder,  the  Spanish  Conquistador es  no  doubt 
climbed  Iztaccihuatl,  but  they  left  no  record  of  the  feat.  The  German 
Sonneschmidt  reached  the  summit  in  1772,  and  he  was  followed,  in  1853, 
by  several  French  engineers.  The  ascent  presents  very  few  of  the  dif- 
ficulties which  characterize  Alpine  peaks.  Perhaps  one  of  the  first  to 
ascend  it  along  the  south  ar6te,  which  leads  up  from  the  pass  facing 
Popocatepetl,  was  Dr.  W.  Freudenberg,  of  the  Geological  Institute  of 
Mexico,  who  calls  Izlaccihuatl  the  “ruins  of  a volcano.”  The  summit 
consists  of  three  elevations,  all  in  pure  white  snow  without  a break. 
The  lowest,  or  S.-E.,  one  presents  a cornice  on  the  side  of  the  glacier. 
The  other  two  tops  are  so  nearly  of  the  same  height  that  the  eye  cannot 
detect  any  difference.  Together  they  make  a rolling  area  perhaps  3 
acres  in  extent.  The  northern  point  prevents  the  “Head”  of  Iztaccihuatl 
from  being  seen  from  the  southern  point.  In  the  other  direction,  the  view 
of  the  glacier  and  the  “Feet,”  with  Popocatepetl  in  the  distance,  is  grand. 
The  exploration  of  the  sierras  adjacent  to  Popo  and  Iztaccihuatl  are  full 
of  interest  to  the  mountaineer,  the  naturalist  and  the  geologist.  The 
mts.  are  entirely  surrounded  by  a zone  of  vegetation,  while  clumps  of 
fine  trees  and  an  astonishingly  varied  assortment  of  beautiful  wild- 
flowers  are  features  of  the  lower  foothills.  On  these  slopes  grow  plants 
that  are  of  unfailing  interest  to  the  botanist  unfamiliar  with  the  wonder- 
ful plant  life  of  sub-tropical  Mexico.  The  plains  which  stretch  away 
from  the  base  of  the  mountains  are  heavy  with  Indian  relics  and  they 
offer  a practically  inexhaustible  field  for  research. 

Amecameca,  see  p.  462.  The  rly.  skirts  the  base  of  the  Sacro 
Monte  and  passes  near  the  foot  of  the  road  which  leads  up  to 
the  sanctuary.  Scores  of  little  Indian  huts,  many  of  them 
straw-thatched  like  those  of  Japan  or  of  Korea,  dot  the  corn- 
fields that  stretch  away  to  the  W.  of  the  hill.  We  traverse  a level 
country  devoted  to  the  cultivation  of  several  species  of  fine 
melons.  The  grade  slopes  upward;  splendidly-wooded  hills 
mark  the  sky-line;  the  air  grows  rarer  and  cooler.  At  (64  K.) 
Zoyacingo,  we  pass  into  a region  of  pines,  cedars  and  firs ; the 
landscape  recalls  the  wooded  parks  of  New  Mexico  (U.  S.  A.). 
The  plateau  here  is  8,100  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  at 
this  elevation  the  sun  loses  much  of  its  genial  warmth,  while 
the  atmosphere  carries  a tang  of  April  or  October  at  the  North. 
Even  the  midday  shadows  are  noticeably  cool,  while  the 
nights  are  apt  to  be  genuinely  cold.  The  region  is  a favorable 
one  for  tubercular  patients;  the  air  is  exceptionablv  pure  and 
its  fine  tonic  effects  are  apparent.  The  land  is  carefully  cul- 
tivated and  wide  milpas  stretch  to  the  distant  hills.  We  enter 
a pine  woods.  About  £ M.  to  the  r.  of  the  rly.  is  the  Tecalco 
Waterfall , and  a 20  min.  walk  down-stream  brings  the  pedes- 
trian to  the  fine  Salto  de  Chimal , near  the  edge  of  the  hot 
country. 

70  K.  Ozumba.  The  plateau  slopes  sharply  toward  the  tierra  caliente. 
Beautiful  views.  We  pass  the  unimportant  stations  of  74  K.  Chimal , 
and  83  K.  Tlacotitlan.  93  K.  Nepantla,  a poor  town  celebrated  as  the 
birthplace  of  Sor.  Juana  Ines  de  La  Cruz  (p.  cxlix).  100  K.  La  Re - 
torta.  The  land  slopes  sharply  and  the  descent  is  rapid.  Banana  plants  are 
everywhere  in  evidence,  and  riotous  semi-tropical  vegetation  succeeds  the 
deciduous  trees  of  the  plateau.  The  region  is  bathed  in  the  sunshine  of  a 
perpetual  spring.  106  K.  La  Cascada.  The  district  is  splendidly  watered; 
many  fine  springs,  which  have  their  sources  in  the  mountains  and  the 
foothills  of  the  table-land,  plunge  down  the  sloping  edge  of  the  Great 


466 


CUAUTLA  HOT  SPRINGS 


Central  Plateau,  and  form  many  cascades  and  waterfalls.  120  K.  Yecap- 
ixtla.  133  K.  Puente  Cuauilixco.  134  K.  Santa  Inez. 

137  K.  Cuautla  (4267  ft.),  a quaint,  semi-tropical  town 
(pop.  9,800)  in  the  State  of  Morelos  — whence  its  political 
name.  Cuautla  Morelos.  It  is  one  of  the  most  charmingly 
tranquil  of  all  the  Mexican  towns,  a rendezvous  for  many 
people  from  the  capital,  and  international^'  celebrated  for 
hot  sulphur  springs  (called  aguas  hediondas  — evil-smelling 
water)  to  which  remarkable  curative  properties  are  ascribed. 
The  Spaniards  knew  of  Cuautla  in  1605,  for  at  that  time  they 
founded  a settlement  around  the  springs  and  made  of  the 
region  a sort  of  Carlsbad  to  which  they  went  at  stated  inter- 
vals. For  centuries  the  Indians  have  known  of  the  curative 
powers  of  the  water,  and  formerly  they  made  long  pilgrimages 
to  bathe  in  it.  It  is  said  to  be  peculiarly  efficacious  in  rheumatic 
complaints.  Aside  from  the  springs,  the  spot  is  a sort  of  open 
air  sanitarium  for  dwellers  at  higher  altitudes;  Mexico  City 
residents  flee  to  it  when  pneumonia,  influenza,  or  the  altitude 
affects  them,  and  here  they  find  almost  instant  relief.  An 
illness  extending  over  many  days  at  Mexico  City  will  usually 
disappear  within  a few  hours  after  the  victim  reaches  Cuautla, 
and  this  is  particularly  the  case  with  bronchial  disorders. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  The  best  and  most  popular  among  the  hotels 
is  the  small  but  cozy  and  comfortable  Hotel  San  Diego,  overlooking  the 
plaza , diagonally  across  from  the  railway  station.  Homelike,  good  food, 
clean,  pure  drinking  water,  English  spoken.  American-French.  Reasonable 
rates.  Popular  with  Mexico  City  residents  and  tourists  alike.  Rooms  can 
be  arranged  for  in  Mexico  City  by  telephoning  to  the  Banque  Fran&iise, 
Calle  Isabel  la  Catolica,  No.  40.  Or  by  letter  to  the  manager  at  Cuautla. 
- — In  the  patio  of  the  hotel  is  an  obse  vation  platform,  perched  in  the  forks 
of  a great  Indian  Laure  tree,  where  afternoon  tea  may  be  had. 

The  Hot  Springs  lie  about  2 M.  to  the  N.-E.  of  the  hotel, 
in  a wild  and  picturesque  region.  The  waters  gush  forth  in 
great  abundance  from  a low  hill,  beyond  which,  and  visible  in 
the  distance,  rises  the  giant  bulk  of  Popocatepetl  — no  doubt 
the  source  of  the  spring.  The  atmosphere  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  springs  is  redolent  of  the  sulphur  which  bursts 
in  bubbles  from  the  flowing  waters.  The  rocks  in  the  bed  of 
the  stream  at  the  base  of  the  hill  are  covered  with  a sulphurous 
furze.  The  baths  are  not  too  hot,  and  the  silken  feeling  con- 
sequent to  bathing  in  sulphurous  water  is  delightful.  Many 
wild  flowers  border  the  stream  as  it  rushes  away  to  lower  levels. 
Horses  and  conveyances  can  be  arranged  for  at  the  hotel  San 
Diego , but  a good  walker  can  easily  cover  the  distance  between 
the  hotel  and  the  springs  in  one-half  hour.  The  country  is 
pleasant  and  safe.  Guide  unnecessary.  b .'i 

The  Climate  is  thoroughly  delightful,  tepid  but  not  sticky, 
and  neither  hot  nor  cold.  Lying  as  it  does  midway  between 
the  high  Mexican  plateau  and  the  tropical  reaches  of  the  sea- 
coast,  Cuautla  possesses  a tropical  charm  without  the  usual 
tropical  discomforts.  The  gigantic  shoulder  of  Popocatepetl 


CUAUTLA  — PUENTE  DE  IXTLA  49.  Rte.  4G7 


deflects  the  whining  north  winds  and  thus  makes  of  it  a 
splendidly  sheltered  station  where  winter  is  unknown.  There 
are  no  brusque  climatic  changes;  each  golden  day  is  as  much 
like  its  predecessor  as  the  beads  on  a rosary,  and  each  follows 
its  fellow  in  uninterrupted  succession.  — There  is  music  in  the 
plaza  in  the  evenings. 

To  the  man  from  the  tropics,  the  cooler  air  of  Cuautla  acts 
like  a tonic,  while  to  the  dweller  on  the  tableland  whose  nerves 
are  set  askew  by  the  altitude,  the  warm  air  is  as  grateful  as 
warm  water  to  a chilled  bather.  Thus  it  is  a place  to  relax  and 
to  rid  one’s  self  of  nerve  strain.  The  town  seems  eternally 
bathed  in  sunshine,  and  it  possesses  an  air  of  tranquillity  and 
restfulness  soothing  and  delightful  to  the  harried  northerner. 
It  is  unusually  clean  and  inviting,  and  like  Cuernavaca  it  is  a 
town  of  running  water.  Many  cool  mountain  streams  gurgle 
through  the  town  and  fill  the  fountains  in  the  local  'patios . 
Cuautla9 s popularity  grows  with  every  visitor,  and  some  day 
it  may  win  a merited  renown  on  a par  with  some  of  the  spas  of 
Europe  and  America. 

The  Environs  of  Cuautla  are  attractive.  Many  fine  fruits 
grow  in  and  around  the  town,  and  wide  sugar  haciendas  dot 
the  countryside.  There  are  many  delightful  walks  in  the 
neighborhood.  The  country  is  open,  the  people  are  friendly, 
and  since  the  demise  of  Emiliano  Zapata  (who  started  a revo- 
lution here  in  1910,  and  whose  tomb  is  one  of  the  local  sights), 
the  countryside  is  safe. 

The  Parochial  Church,  founded  in  1605  and  dedicated  to 
San  Diego  (St.  James),  is  quaint  and  time-stained. 

The  old  Conventual  Church  also  dedicated  to  San  Diego , is 
now  used  as  a railway  station,  and  is  perhaps  the  oldest  depot 
in  America. 

Cuautla  Morelos  is  forever  enshrined  in  Mexican  hearts 
because  of  a heroic  struggle  there  between  Mexican  troops 
under  the  patriot  Jose  Maria  Morelos , and  royalist  Spaniards 
led  by  General  Calleja . Morelos  and  his  handful  of  stout- 
hearted men  found  themselves  trapped  in  Cuautla , and  were 
there  besieged  for  nearly  three  months,  during  which  time 
they  suffered  greatly.  When  the  last  crust  was  eaten,  and 
famine  stared  the  determined  people  in  the  face,  the  clever 
Morelos  flouted  the  Spaniards  by  a brilliantly  executed  retreat 
to  safety. 

An  automobile  road  connects  Cuautla  with  Cuernavaca 
(p.  436),  and  excursions  can  be  made  to  that  point  and  the 
Cacahuamilpa  caverns,  described  at  p.  454. 

Between  Cuauhtla  and  Puente  de  Ixtla  the  train  traverses  a country  which 
grows  more  tropical  as  we  near  the  coast.  139  K.  Santa  Ines.  141  K.  Cuau - 
tlixco.  145  K.  Calderon  154  K.  San  Carlos.  160  K.  Yautepec. 

218  K.  Pu9nte  de  Ixtla.  Connections  are  made  here  with  the  Cuerna- 
vaca Division  of  the  Rly.  Routes  45  and  47. 


VIII.  SOUTH-EASTERN  MEXICO, 


50.  Vera  Cruz 469 

Practical  hi  formation:  Arrival  by  Sea,  469.  — Railway  Sta- 
tions, 469.  — Hotels,  469.  — Baths,  471.  — Cabs,  471.  — 
Tramways,  47 1 . — Banks, 471 . — Telegraph-Office,  471 . — 
Post-Office,  471.  — Curios,  471.  — Bull-Ring,  471. — 
Steamship  Lines,  471.  — Climate  and  Weather  Indica- 
tions, 471. 

Situation,  History,  and  Character  of  the  City  . ,472 

Walks  and  Excursions 474 

Bay  and  Harbor 477 

History 478 

State  of  Vera  Cruz 480 

51.  From  VeraCruz  to  Alvarado  (by  railway) , thence 
(by  steamboat)  to  Tlacotalpam,  San  Cristobal, 
Cosamaloapam,  Chacaltianquis,  and  Tuxtepec  . 481 

The  Cocoa-nut  Tree,  482. 


52.  From  Vera  Cruz  via  Cordoba,  Orizaba,  and  San 

Juan  Teotihuacan  to  Mexico  City 484 

The  Gruta  de  Atoyac,  485. 


53.  Cordoba  and  Environs 486 

The  Indian  Village  of  Amatlan,  487.  — Coffee  Growing, 
489. 

54.  Orizaba  and  Environs 489 

From  Esperanza  to  Tehuacan,  495.  — El  Pico  de  Orizaba, 
496.  — From  San  Andres  to  Chalchicomula,  496.  — Pyra- 
mids of  San  Juan  Teotihuacan,  498. 

55.  From  Mexico  City  to  Texcoco,  San  Lorenzo, 

Oriental,  Jalapa  and  Vera  Cruz 499 

Texcoco,  499.  — The  Axolotl,  500.  — Castle  of  Perote,  502. 

56.  Jalapa 503 

Historical  Sketch,  503.  — General  Antonio  Lopez  de  Santa 
Anna,  506.  — Excursion  to  the  Pyramid  of  Papantla, 

506.  — To  El  Salto  de  Xico,  506.  — To  Coatepec,  506. 

57.  Puebla 508 

Arrival,  508.  — Cabs,  508  — Tranvias,  508.  — Hotels,  508. 

— Museums,  508.  — Baths,  509.  — Shops,  509.  — Post 
and  Telegraph  Offices,  509.  — Banks,  509.  — Consuls, 

509.  — Historical  Sketch  of  the  City,  509. — Battle  of 
the  Fifth  of  May,  510.  — State  of  Puebla,  517.  — The 
Falls  of  Necaxa,  51 7. 

58.  Excursions  from  Puebla 518 

To  the  Pyramid  of  Cholula,  518. 

To  Atlixco,  521. 

59.  From  Puebla  via  Tehuacan  to  Oaxaca  City 

(thence  to  the  Big  Tree  of  Tule,  and  the  Ruins  of 
Mitla) 523 

Tehuacan.  526.  — The  Hot-Springs,  526. 


VERA  CRUZ 


469 


60.  Oaxaca  City 528 

Arrival,  528.  — Hotels,  528.  — Cabs,  528.  — Post  and  Tel- 
egraph-Offices, 528.  — Consuls,  528.  — Banks,  529.  — 
From  Oaxaca  to  San  Pablo,  529.  — To  Ejutla,  529.  — 
Sarapes,  529.  — History,  530. 


1.  Excursion  to  the  Cerro  del  Fortin  de  Zaragoza,  534. 

2.  Monte  Alban,  534. 

3.  To  San  Felipe  del  Agua,  534. 

61.  Excursion  to  the  Ruins  of  Mitla 534 

Santa  Maria  del  Tule,  536.  — The  Big  Tree,  536.  — The 
Ruins  of  Mitla,  537.  — History  of  the  Ruins,  540.  — 
State  of  Oaxaca,  541 . — Indian  Tribes,  542.  — Cochi- 
neal, 543. 


50.  Vera  Cruz. 

Arrival  by  Sea.  The  American  mail  ships  (Ward  Line)  tie  up  at  the 
Malecon  (see  the  Plan,  ( , 2),  within  a few  min.  walk  of  the  Mexican  Rly. 
Station  and  the  plaza.  Hotel  runners  meet  ships.  Hand-baggage  usually  is 
inspected  n board,  but  trunks  are  (sometimes)  taken  to  the  Muelle  de  la 
Sanidad  across  the  bay  from  the  Malecon,  where  the  custom-house  shed  is 
located  (PI.  C,  3),  and  are  examined  there.  The  examination  is  prompt, 
courteous  and  lenient.  Fees  are  neither  expected  nor  accepted.  While  hotel 
runners  insist  that  they  can  pass  luggage  satisfactorily  through  the  aduana 
(custom-house),  prudent  travellers  will  attend  to  this  duty  in  person. 
Albeit  the  hotel  runners  are  as  a rule  trustworthy,  travellers  should  see  to  it 
that  baggage  is  locked  before  it  is  delivered  over  to  them.  If  it  is  given  to 
a cargador  (p.  Iii6),  be  sure  he  has  a card  ( tarjeta ) showing  his  photograph, 
and  a number  plate  (issued  by  the  police).  It  is  also  wise  to  keep  him  and 
the  luggage  in  sight. 

Like  port  workers  in  other  tropical  lands,  those  of  Vera  Cruz  have  an 
exaggerated  idea  of  the  value  of  their  services,  and  two  pesos  are  often 
charged  for  transporting  a trunk  from  the  pier  to  any  hotel  or  the  rly.  station. 
Where  there  are  several  trunks  this  price  can  sometimes  be  reduced  by  bar- 
gaining. Hand-luggage,  25-50  c a piece.  Cab  fare  ($1.50  for  J hr.  or  less; 
$2.50  an  hr.)  can  be  saved  (distances  are  short)  by  walking,  or  using  the 
tram-cars  — which  connect  the  town  with  the  wharves. 

The  port  Doctor  may  ask  to  see  one’s  vaccination  mark  before  one  is 
permitted  to  land. 

Money  Exchange  ( Cambio  de  Moneda ).  A number  of  small  exchanges 
cluster  about  the  portale?  facing  the  Plaza.  Silver  money  is  discounted. 
American  money  can  be  exchanged  usually  to  better  advantage  on  the  ship 
or  at  New  York,  before  sailing.  Look  well  to  money  received  at  Vera  Cruz, 
as  counterfeit  coins  are  not  unknown  there. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  The  chief  hotels  are  under  native  or  Spanish 
management.  English  is  spoken  in  some  of  them.  All  are  near  the  plaza 
except  the  hotel  in  the  Terminal  Station.  If  one  is  stopping  in  Vera  Cruz  a 
few  hours  only,  the  latter  will  prove  the  most  convenient  for  trains.  A 
double  luggage  transfer  can  also  be  avoided. 

Hotels  facing  the  plaza , around  which  the  social  life  of  the  port  centres, 
are  apt  to  be  a trifle  higher  than  those  on  the  side  streets.  None  of  them 
are  modern  in  the  American  sense,  but  the  rooms  usually  are  large  and 
comfortable.  Rooms  overlooking  the  plaza  are  preferable  to  inner  rooms 
(and  are  more  expensive).  Rooms  on  the  ground  floor  should  be  avoided. 
Learn  from  which  quarter  the  night  breeze  is  blowing,  and  secure  a room 
that  receives  it.  A mosquito-net  (una  mosquitera ) is  a necessity  and  should 
be  demanded.  Leave  no  valuables  exposed.  Lock  rooms  and  leave  keys  at 
the  office  when  not  in  use.  Check  up  all  bills  before  paying  them. 

Where  the  hotels  face  the  plaza  meals  are  served  at  small  tables  on  the 
sidewalk,  under  the  picturesque  portales  — where  refreshments  can  be  had 
at  all  hours. 

Tips  (comp.  p.  lix)  are  expected  but  are  not  absolutely  necessary.  — 


470  Route  50. 


VERA  CRUZ  Railways . Steamships . 


The  unimmune  should  refrain  from  drinking  any  water  or  milk  that  has 
not  been  recently  boiled.  It  should  also  be  remembered  that  the  popular 
wines  are  very  apt  to  be  diluted  with  unboiled  water.  — A certain  liquid 
refreshment  made  at  Orizaba  has  a reputation  for  purity,  and  is  widely  used. 

The  Hotel  Diligencias,  overlooking  the  Plaza  de  Armas.  — Hotel  Im- 
perial, adjoining.  — Gran  Hotel  Colon,  in  the  Calle  Benito  Juarez.  — Gran 
Hotel  Mexico,  Calle  Morelos.  — Hotel  Terminal , in  the  Terminal  Station. 
— Rates  in  all  vary  from  about  &2.50  (Mex.  money)  a day,  for  room  only 
(outside  rooms  higher  than  inner  ones).  Meals  a la  carta.  — Dining  under 
the  portales  is  a pleasant  experience. 

The  Railways  centring  in  Vera  Cruz  are  The  Mexican  Railway  ( Ferro - 
carril  Mexicano),  Rte.  52,  p.484;  The  Interoceanic  Rly.  (F.  C.  Interoc<dnico ), 
Rte.  55,  p.499:  The  Vera  Cruz  & Isthmus  Rly.  (F.  C.  V.  C.  al  Istmo), 
to  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec  (Rte.  62,  p.  544) ; and  the  Ferrocarriles 
de  Vera  Cruz  Limitada  (Rte.  51,  p.  481),  with  trains  to  Alvarado,  and  steam- 
ers to  points  on  the  Papalodpam  River.  All  trains  arrive  and  depart  from 
the  Terminal  Railway  Station  (PI.  B,  2).  For  time  of  departure,  etc.  consult 
the  Rly  . folders  or  the  Guia  Oficial.  There  is  a hotel  and  a cining-room  in 
the  station.  — Newspapers,  magazines,  books,  etc.  at  the  Agenda  de  Pub- 
licaciones,  in  the  Terminal  Station.  — The  Post  and  Telegraph  Offices 
are  in  the  large  white  building  just  at  the  S.  of  the  station.  The  local  execu- 
tive offices  of  certain  of  the  railways  are  in  the  station  building. 

Steamship  Offices:  Those  of  the  Ward  Line  (N.  Y.  & Cuba  Mail  S.  S. 
Co.)  are  across  the  little  park  from  the  Terminal  Station;  A.  R.  Gomez, 
Agent.  — Mexican  Navigation  Co.,  Alejo  Bay,  agente,  Calle  Benito  Juarez, 
3.  For  the  addresses  of  the  French,  Spanish,  and  Italian  Transatlantic  com- 
panies, and  other  lines,  consult  the  local  directory.  The  house  flag  of  the 
line  usually  can  be  seen  flying  from  the  flagstaff  above  the  office. 

Banks  (bancos).  Banco  Nacional  de  Mexico. — Viya  Hermanos,  Suers. 
are  Vera  Cruz  correspondents  of  the  (American)  Mexico  City  Banking  Cor- 
poration, S.  A. 

The  Curios  offered  for  sale  in  the  little  shops  in  the  portales  consist  usu- 
ally of  shells,  trifling  articles  of  madreperle,  carved  cocoanuts  and  similar 
knickknacks  made  by  the  prisoners  in  the  San  Juan  de  Ulua  fortress.  The 
glued  ones  nearly  always  come  apart  in  steam-heated  American  homes. 
The  genuinely  attractive  art  objects  generally  to  be  found  in  the  Mexico 
City  Antique  Shops  are  lacking  here. 

The  local  Shops  cater  more  to  a modest  native  trade  than  to  foreigners. 
Prices  are  higher  than  at  Mexico  City. 

The  native  sweets,  drinks,  ices,  etc.  peddled  on  the  streets  by  ambulate 
ing  vendors  should  be  rigorously  avoided. 

Cahs  and  automobiles  ply  for  hire,  but  the  distances  are  so  short  that 
they  find  little  to  do  unless  one  plans  a suburban  trip.  Bargaining  is  neces- 
sary in  such  cases,  as  the  $2,  2.50  charge  per  hr.,  in  the  port  does  not  apply 
to  trips  beyond  the  City  limits. 

Travellers  who  plan  to  take  the  night  train  from  the  port  to  Mexico  City 
may  like  to  be  reminded  that  the  scenery  between  the  two  places  ranks  with 
the  finest  on  the  continent.  The  climb  from  the  sea  coast  to  the  edge  of  the 
great  Central  Plateau,  particularly  over  the  line  of  the  Mexican  Railroad 
(Rte.  52,  p.  484),  is  through  one  of  the  most  picturesque  sections  of  Mexico, 
and  the  stranger  should  not  miss  it.  The  attractive  cities  of  Cordoba  and 
Orizaba,  particularly  the  latter,  are  well  worth  a visit,  and  stop-over 
tickets  can  be  arranged  for  with  the  rly.  officials.  It  is  doubtful  if  any  rlv 
line  in  the  Americas  combines  so  much  of  charm  or  can  produce  such  com 
plete  contrasts,  for  here  snow-crowned  volcanoes  look  down  in  eterna 
silence  upon  a region  swooning  beneath  tropical  heat  and  forever  aflame 
with  the  brilliant  flowers  of  a sun-drenched  land.  Every  inch  of  the  country 
is  overrun  with  a riot  of  tropical  verdure,  or  with  bizarre  flowering  trees 
unknown  to  our  northern  clime.  Coffee-plantations,  broad  felds  of  sugar- 
cane, tobacco,  bananas,  oranges,  pineapples  and  a host  of  lus  ious  fruits  are 
features  of  the  region,  where  every  tree  and  shrub  produces  some  sort  of  a 
flower,  and  where  Bougain villa  a (see  n.  442),  hibiscus,  poinsettia  (so  called 
for  Joel  R.  Poinsett,  American  minister  to  Mexico  in  1828),  dahlias  (named 
for  Dr  Dahl,  a Swedish  botanist,  who  brought  them  first  to  the  U.  S.  A. 
from  Mexico  in  1837),  fuchsias  (named  by  Plunder,  in  honor  of  the  German 


Climate  and  Weather . VERA  CRUZ  50.  Route . 471 


botanist,  Leonard  Fuchs),  magnolias  (named  after  Pierre  Magnol , a French 
botanist),  orchids  in  great  prolusion,  brilliant  scarlet  thistles,  morning 
glories  and  a myriad  other  familiar  flowers  grow  wild  in  the  jungle,  and 
give  an  indescribable  color  and  charm  to  the  landscape. 

Tremendous  engineering  problems  had  to  be  solved  when  the  road  was 
built  (from  both  ends,  simultaneously)  and  the  bridges  and  grades  are  of  un- 
I failing  interest  to  technical  men.  The  ride  is  an  unforgettable  one.  The 
latter  half  of  it  is  across  the  high  tableland,  through  the  greatest  pulque- 
producing  region  of  the  Republic  and  in  territory  over  which  thp  Spanish 
conquistador es  fought  their  wray  in  1519.  The  great  Pyramids  ol  San  Juan 
Teotihuacan  (p.  425)  are  seen  just  before  the  train  readies  the  Mexican 
capital. 

While  the  Interoceanic  Railway  traverses  a country  less  broken  than  that 
• through  which  the  Mexican  Railroad  runs,  the  scenery  along  the  line  is 
i abidingly  interesting  and  picturesque.  Outstanding  features  of  the  tiip  are 
the  giant  Cofre  de  Perote,  described  at  page  502;  the  charming  little  city 
! of  Jalapa  (p.  503),  whence  came  Jalap,  that  powerful  cathartic  so  nauseat- 
I ingly  familiar  in  a time  not  so  very  remote;  the  strange  Pyramid  of  Pap- 
| aritla  (p.  507),  and  the  interesting  city  of  Puebla,  with  its  many  churches, 
its  memories  of  the  American  army  in  1847,  and  the  (at  a short  distance) 
highly  interesting  Pyramid  of  Cholula  (p.  518). 


Climate  and  Weather  Indications.  The  Climate  of  the  port  is  moist 
and  at  certain  seasons  almost  unbearably  hot.  The  average  tempera- 
ture during  the  year  is:  for  April  and  May,  69°  Fahr.;  during  the 
| “dog  days”  (canicular es) , 92°;  from  the  middle  of  Aug.  (when  the  strong 
N.  and  N.-W.  winds  commence  to  blow)  until  the  middle  of  Oct.  84°; 
from  Oct.  to  Dec.  75°,  and  from  Dec.  to  March,  64°.  During  the  season 
of  calms  (middle  of  May  to  the  end  of  July)  the  thermometer  often 
reaches  102°  and  the  heat  is  almost  suffocating.  The  southern  wrinds 
which  blow  for  a day  or  two  before  the  North  unchains  its  howling 
messengers  are  like  the  breath  of  a furnace;  but  as  soon  as  the  nortes 
whip  down  the  coast  the  temperature  drops  and  life  becomes  bearable. 
These  nortes  are  the  monsoons  (Arabic  mausims  = strong  winds)  of  the 
Western  Hemisphere.  The  continued  heat  in  the  Gulf  region  creates  a 

f>artial  vacuum  due  to  expansion,  and  the  winter  winds  of  the  northern 
atitude  seek  this  vacuum  just  as  the  trade  winds  follow  the  sun,  and  the 
So.-West  monsoon  seeks  the  superheated  plains  of  India.  The  nortes  are 
as  beneficial  to  the  Gulf  region  as  the  monsoons  are  to  India  and  Ceylon. 
They  blow  with  greatest  intensity  between  Nov.  and  March.  Strong 
northers  ( nortes  fuertes)  are  known  as  hueso  Colorado  (red-core).  They 
blow  with  great  violence  for  two  days  or  more  and  are  always  succeeded 
bv  delightful  weather.  The  norte  which  blows  up  with  the  rising  tide  is 
called  norte  chocolatero  (chocolate  colored),  and  sometimes  lasts  for  a fort- 
night; rarely  assuming  the  character  of  a gale.  During  these  northers 
dense  masses  of  rain-charged  clouds  ride  in  above  the  city  and  travel  to- 
ward the  sierras  of  Orizaba  and  Perote  : impinging  on  these  mountains 
they  remain  and  accumulate  until  sunset.  Then  the  land  breeze  — which 
always  blows  seaward  during  the  night  — brings  them  back  to  the  coast 
where  they  precipitate  their  moisture  — usually  between  10  p.  m.  and 
daylight.  Rain  rarely  falls  in  Vera  Cruz  during  the  day ; it  not  un- 
frequently  assumes  the  form  of  a hurricane  or  a waterspout.  During  a 
hard  norte  the  wind  attains  a high  velocity  and  everything  portable  is 
placed  to  leeward  of  the  massive  houses.  The  palms  in  the  plaza  and  along 
the  Paseo  de  los  Cocos  seem  as  if  on  the  point  of  being  uprooted  and  hurled 
to  the  equator.  The  waves  thunder  against  the  northern  rompeolas  and 
dash  clouds  of  spray  high  in  the  air.  Hissing  white  caps  drive  over  the 
southern  muelle  and  throw  spinning  drift  against  the  doors  of  the  custom- 
house. In  the  pier  “pockets,”  piles  of  flotsam  — cocoanut  husks,  up- 
rooted palms,  ship-timbers  and  whatnot  — accumulate  and  swash  to 
and  fro  with  the  making  and  refluent  tide:  crowds  of  hungry  zopilotes 
then  stand  on  the  edge  of  the  moll  and  capture  bits  of  carrion  that  come 
in  on  the  angr>  waters.  It  is  interesting  to  watch  these  bizarre  and 
sombre  birds  as  they  step  gingerly  about,  rising  in  trepidation  to  escape 
the  onslaught  of  whirling  spray;  always  with  their  feathers  trimmed  to 


472  Route  50,  YERA  CRUZ  Climate, 

the  wind,  their  heads  cocked  to  one  side,  the  while  voicing  their  shrill 
querulous  skiriing  which  rises  above  tne  noise  of  tne  wind. 

Weather  Indications. 

Fair.  — When  sea  birds  fly  early  and  far  out. 

When  the  clouds  are  soft  and  with  definite 
outlines. 

When  the  morning  sky  is  gray,  with  light,  deli- 
cate tints. 

Wind.  — When  the  dawn  has  been  preceded  by  a bright 
yellow  sunset. 

When  the  clouds  are  hard-edged,  oily-looking, 
and  tawny  or  copper-colored. 

When  there  is  a light  scud. 

Rain.  — W^hen  the  sunset  of  the  evening  before  was  of  a 
pale  yellow. 

W~hen  the  clouds  are  small  and  inky. 

Clear  atmosphere  near  to  horizon  and  light  at- 
mospheric pressure. 

Wind  and  Rain.  — Light  scud  driving  across  heavy  masses.  Sky  of 
orange  or  copper  color,  or  gaudy,  unusual  hues. 
Clouds  with  hard,  defined  outlines. 

Change  of  Wind.  — High  upper  clouds,  crossed  by  lower  in  a direction 
different  from  their  course  or  that  of  the  wind. 

Storm.  — When  the  wind  blows  a gale  from  the  north  and 
the  sea-birds  remain  near  to  shore  or  fly  inland. 

Vera  Cruz,  one  of  the  oldest,  quaintest  and  most  cosmopoli- 
tan ports  on  the  Mexican  Gulf  Coast  (pop.  25,000;  4 ft.  above 
sea  level)  in  the  (Gulf)  State  of  Vera  Cruz,  2036  M.  from  New 
York,  265  M.  from  Mexico  City,  in  lat.  19°,  11',  53",  and  long. 

2°,  59',  53"  E.  of  Greenwich,  formerly  the  greatest  entry  port 
in  the  Republic,  but  now  being  hard  pressed  by  Tampico,  at 
the  north,  was  one  of  the  first  places  in  Mexico  to  be  settled  by 
the  Spanish  invaders,  and  is  to-day  more  thoroughly  Spanish 
tlian  any  other  city  in  the  country.  It  is  an  odd  and  pictur- 
esque blend  of  the  antique  and  the  modern,  certain  parts  of 
the  port  still  resembling  bits  of  Valencia  and  Bilbao  trans-  - 
planted  to  the  New  World. 

The  languid  climate  of  Vera  Cruz  is  opposed  to  any  start-  ' 
ling  innovations.  New  buildings  sometimes  rise  on  the  ruins 
of  ancient  ones,  but  the  all -pervading  humidity  soon  gives  ; 
them  a weather-beaten  look,  and  blends  them  with  the  older 
structures. 

The  effects  of  the  American  bombardment  and  capture  of 
the  city  in  1914,  during  the  Huerta  regime,  are  in  evidence 
in  many  ways,  for  during  the  brief  occupation  the  Americans 
cleaned  the  port,  eliminated  all  the  pest  holes,  beautified  it  in 
various  ways,  and  started  it  on  a career  of  cleanliness  which  in 
a sense  has  been  maintained. 

Asphal  t has  taken  the  place  of  the  medieval  cobbles  on  certain 
of  the  principal  thoroughfares;  the  bluish,  bubbling  sludge  which 
anciently  meandered  along  the  open  sewers  in  the  centre  of 
the  street-s  has  permanently  vanished ; the  loathsome  zovilotes 
which  formerly  comprised  the  street-cleaning  department  now 
have  to  scratch  for  a precarious  living,  and  as  a consequence, 
the  port  is  not  only  free  from  the  dread  vomito , but  in  other 


La  Parroquia. 


VERA  CRUZ 


60.  Route.  473 


ways  it  is  far  healthier  than  in  olden  times.  The  authorities 
are  making  sustained  efforts  to  render  the  improvements  per- 
manent, and  travellers  now  run  no  risk  in  making  Vera  Cruz 
their  port  of  entry  or  departure. 

Despite  its  modernization  the  town  is  still  replete  with  artistic  interest, 
and  almost  every  one  of  its  old  walls  carries  its  story  of  war  and  of  strug- 
gles with  the  fighting  buccaneers  of  the  Spanish  Main.  In  a way  it 
epitomizes  the  whole  strange  history  of  Mexico,  for  here  the  Spaniards 
planted  their  first  stockade,  fought  their  initial  battles  with  the  natives, 
made  it  their  base  of  supplies  while  they  besieged  the  Aztec  stronghold, 
and  hence  sent  their  famous  “silver  fleet”  of  broad-pooped  galleons  laden 
with  the  pale  metal  wrested  from  the  treasure-rooms  of  the  dying  Indians. 
For  three  centuries  it  was  the  chief  port  of  New  Spain,  and  when  the 
valiant  Mexicans  threw  off  the  Spanish  yoke  the  last  flag  of  Spain  that 
floated  above  the  land  was  hauled  down  from  the  tower  of  San  Juan  de 
Ulua.  The  little  houses  on  the  side  streets,  and  the  quaint  courts  and 
nooks  of  these  streets  themselves,  are  unfailingly  interesting  and  pic- 
turesque. Many  of  the  exports  and  imports  of  southern  and  central 
Mexico  pass  through  this  gateway,  and  a steady  commercial  life  pulsates 
in  all  its  arteries.  Nearly  one  fourth  of  the  total  imports  into  the  Repub. 
come  through  the  V.  C.  aduana,  and  over  a million  pesos  a month  are  col- 
lected in  customs  duties.  Ships  of  all  maritime  nations  are  usually  to  be 
seen  in  the  broad  bay.  In  the  last  year  or  so  the  trade  of  Vera  Cruz  has 
suffered  somewhat  from  the  rivalry  of  Tampico.  The  V eracruzanos  are 
early  risers  (many  are  on  the  street  at  4 a.  m.)  and  most  of  the  business 
houses  close  between  11  a.  m.  and  1 p.  m.  for  the  noonday  rest,  luncheon, 
and  siesta.  Business  is  generally  at  a standstill  during  these  hours 

The  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion  (PI.  B.  3),  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  is  one 
of  the  most  historic  spots  in  the  Repub.,  and  is  usually  animated  and 
picturesque.  In  the  evening  when  the  military  band  plays  in  the  kiosko, 
the  V eracruzanos  repair  hither  and  the  plaza  and  adjacent  portales  are 
thronged.  The  tall  cocoa-nut  palms  which  sentinel  the  place  impart  a 
pleasing  tropical  aspect,  and  the  many  foreign  sailors  from  the  ships  in  the 
bay  add  to  its  attractiveness  and  to  its  cosmopolitan  character. 

The  Parochial  Church  ila  parroquia),  which  faces  the  Ave.  de  la 
Independencia  and  flanks  the  S.  side  of  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion , is  the 
most  picturesque  building  in  the  port  and  occupies  the  site  of  a ch. 
erected  by  the  Spaniards  soon  after  they  founded  the  town.  It  was  dedi- 
cated June  13,  1734,  to  Nuestra  Sefiora  de  la  Asuncion  — Our  Lady  of 
the  Assumption.  A life-size  figure  of  this  patron  saint,  bathed  in  a flood 
of  sickly  green  light,  may  be  seen  in  the  first  chapel  to  the  r.  of  the  main 
entrance.  The  other  chapels,  and  the  nave,  contain  a number  of  replicas 
of  paintings,  of  little  worth.  The  popular  prejudice  runs  to  roods  and  to 
polychrome  figures  of  saints,  of  which  there  is  an  over-supply.  These 
figures  (of  Spanish  or  German  manufacture),  of  chalk  or  wood,  varying 
in  size  from  cherubim  to  patriarchs,  almost  monopolize  the  interior  — 
some  standing,  some  crucified,  some  stretched  in  gory,  realistic  coffins, 
and  all  in  agonized  attitudes.  They  are  positively  painful  to  the  sight, 
but  if  the  visitor  can  close  his  eyes  to  these,  and  to  the  offensive  lights 
filtered  through  cheap,  gaudy  stained-glass  windows,  and  can  turn  his 
thought  from  other  harrowing  attributes,  he  can  perhaps  enjoy  the  cool 
atmosphere  which,  though  very  ancient,  is  several  degrees  lower  than  that 
of  the  sun-scorched  streets. 

The  Exterior,  decorated  by  the  deft  hand  of  time,  is  far  more  attractive 
than  the  local  workmanship  of  the  interior.  The  salt  winds  and  the 
tropical  hurricanes  ( huracanes ) of  nearly  two  centuries  have  lashed  its 
massive  sides  and  they  have  imparted  thereto  a look  of  extreme  antiquity. 
But  the  stout-hearted,  militant  friars  of  the  early  colonial  days  infused 
some  of  their  own  unquenchable  zeal,  and  not  a little  of  their  austere 
personality  into  this  old  structure,  which  still  looks  sturdy  enough  to 
withstand  the  buffetings  of  another  century  or  so.  The  old  flying  but- 
tresses are  very  quaint,  as  are  also  the  gargoyles  which  project  from  the 
roof  like  so  many  ancient  Spanish  blunderbusses.  A number  of  deep- 


474  Route  50.  VERA  CRUZ  Zopilotes. 

toned,  green-bronze  bells  hang  high  in  the  old  campanario  and  strike  the 
fleeting  hours  in  unison  with  the  modern  clock  in  the  belfry  of  the  Palacio 
Municipal  at  the  E.  end  of  the  plaza.  Ornate  blue  and  white  Spanish 
tiles  ( azulejos ) cover  the  cupola  and  the  apex  of  the  towers  — those  of 
the  latter  placed  in  such  a way  as  to  resemble  an  exaggerated  scratch  wig. 
On  moonlit  nights  these  lustered  tiles  reflect  the  moon’s  rays  like  so 
many  mirrors  and  impart  a singular  appearance  to  the  ch.,  whose  greater 
bulk  stands  in  the  shadows.  Luna  fairly  idealizes  this  dumb  old  eccle- 
siastical relic  of  palmy  days,  as  wrell  as  the  quaint  plaza  with  its  tall  and 
seldom  motionless  palms.  The  towers  and  the  lantern  surmounting  the 
cupola  are  the  favorite  roosting-place  of  the  omnipresent  zopilotes,  or 
buzzards  ( Cathartes  aura)  — ill-favored  birds  which  act  as  city  scavengers 
and  which  were  known  to  the  superstitious  Aztecs  as  the  Buhu,  or  sacred 
bird  of  mystery.  At  twilight  all  the  zopilotes  of  the  port  repair  to  the  ch. 
roof  and  after  considerable  ill-humored  wrangling  settle  themselves  for 
the  night  each  in  his  accustomed  place.  They  pack  their  jet-black  forms 
as  closely  as  possible  on  the  edges  of  the  tower  and  the  arms  of  the  cross, 
and  when  the  stars  come  out  and  cast  a faint  light  over  all,  the  motionless 
birds  resemble  collarettes  of  jet  or  funeral  plumes  that  impart  an  odd 
and  sinister  appearance  to  the  structure.  These  scavengers  are  an  unfra- 
grant  lot  (usually  rich  in  vermin) ; and  as  they  sail  through  the  air  they 
leave  a wave  of  scent  that  recalls  anything  but  the  perfumes  of  Araby. 
They  spend  their  days  perched  on  the  tails  of  ambulating  refuse  carts, 
flapping  or  straddling  along  the  narrow  sidewalks,  sidling  across  the 
coping  stones  of  the  houses  or  swooping  therefrom  to  the  street  to  fight 
viciously  over  bits  of  carrion  unearthed  by  some  ghoulish  companion. 
Their  vulturine  habits  are  offensive,  but  the  city  authorities  protect  the 
birds  by  imposing  a fine  ( multa ) of  five  pesos  upon  whosoever  injures 
one.  Whether  he  will  or  no  the  traveller  always  associates  these  black 
scavengers  with  his  memories  of  Vera  Cruz.  They  strike  one  as  the  sur- 
viving symbols  of  the  early  years  of  the  port,  when  bewhiskered  sea- 
rangers  strode  the  streets,  and  dessicating  criminals  swung  and  creaked 
on  the  grisly  gallows  which  then  stood  in  the  central  plaza.  They  are  to 
V era  Cruz  what  the  rooks  are  to  Colombo , pigeons  to  Jeypore,  and  kites 
to  certain  of  the  Japanese  towns. 

The  old  Church  of  San  Francisco , at  the  cor.  of  the  Axe.  Morelos  and  the 
Calle  Benito  Juarez , was  founded  in  1S34,  and  was  for  many  years  one  of 
the  most  prominent  in  the  port;  it  was  recently  Converted  into  a Museum 
and  Public  Library  (books  chiefly  in  Spanish).  The  tower  was  long  used  as  the 
Benito  Juarez  Lighthouse.  The  old  ch.  corporation  was  formerly  maintained 
by  a tribute  levied  upon  seamen,  and  upon  the  shinning  that  came  to  the 
port.  Minor  churches  are  La  Capilla  de  la  Pastora,  El  Santo  Cristo,  El  Buen 
Viaje,  El  Belen , etc. 

La  Avenida  de  la  Independencia , which  leads  from  the  Mexican  rly. 
station  at  the  N.,  to  the  Alameda  at  the  S.,  is  the  main  thoroughfare,  and 
some  of  the  best  native  shops  flank  it.  That  section  near  the  plaza  is  the 
busiest  in  the  city.  Adown  the  side  streets,  which  lead  away  at  right 
angles,  the  traveller  will  get  vistas  of  unusually  quaint  houses,  with 
painted  wood  balconies,  and  huge,  old-fashioned  doors.  Sleep  in  a room 
facing  the  avenida  is  usually  out  of  the  question  after  5 a.  m.;  the  rum- 
bling of  heavy  refuse  carts,  the  tooting  of  tram-car  horns,  the  clang- 
ing cow-bell  of  the  ice-man,  and  the  shouts  of  the  milkman — who 
carries  the  milk  in  huge  tin  cans  thrust  into  horse-hide  pockets  slung 
pannier-wise  across  the  back  of  a mule  — quickly  banish  thoughts  of 
sleep. 

Walks  (attractive).  Down  the  Ave.  de  la  Independencia  (PI.  B,  3)  to 
the  Paseo  de  los  Cocos  (5  min.  from  the  plaza),  a cemented  and  shaded 
promenade  (popular  at  twilight,  and  thronged  on  Sundays)  flanked  by 
the  Avenida  de  la  Libertad  and  by  many  fine  cocoa-nut  trees,  flowering 
trees  and  shrubs.  The  tram-cars  which  pass  the  plaza  also  pass  here, 
going  and  returning.  On  the  r.  before  we  reach  the  paseo  (often  referred 
to  as  the  Alajneda)  is  the  cuartel  and  office  ( Calle  de  Ocampo  and  Ave. 
de  la  Indep.)  of  the  Comandante  Militar.  The  statue  at  the  entrance  of 
the  paseo  was  erected  (1892)  to  the  memory  of  a wise  and  philanthropic 
governor  of  the  state,  Manuel  Gutierrez  Zamora.  The  promenade  stretches 


Market. 


VERA  CRUZ 


50.  Route.  475 


away  for  some  distance  past  the  quaint  and  diminutive  homes  of  the 
natives.  A statue  of  Liberty  adorns  the  extreme  end  of  the  paseo,  to  the 
r.,  whence  the  view  of  the  countryside  with  its  palms  is  beguiling.  Re- 
turning, we  strike  off  from  the  Alameda  near  the  entrance,  proceed  one 
square  toward  the  sea  and  come  to  the  unkempt  and  dusty  Porfirio  Diaz 
Park  with  a circle  of  cocoa-nut  trees  and  a fine  monument  and  bronze 
statue  of  the  patriot  president  Benito  Pablo  Juarez  (PI.  B,  4).  The  figure, 
of  heroic  size,  surmounts  a tall  marble  shaft  embellished  by  composite 
marble  pilasters.  On  the  scroll  in  the  left  hand  of  the  figure  is  the  keynote 
of  the  courageous  old  patriot’s  lifework,  Reforma.  Lower  are  the  words 
Pro  Patria,  and  inscribed  on  the  base  of  the  shaft  is  the  famous  phrase, 
El  respecto  al  derecho  ageno  es  la  paz  (Respect  for  the  rights  of  others  is 
peace).  The  names  of  the  Mex.  patriots  Lerdo,  Ruiz,  and  Ocampo,  and 
bronzed  eagles  with  serpents  in  their  talons,  adorn  the  sides  and  rear  of 
the  monument.  It  was  erected  to  commemorate  the  celebrated  Reform 
Laws  ( Leges  de  Reforma)  promulgated  (1859)  by  Juarez  when  his  provi- 
sional government  was  established  at  Vera  Cruz.  If  the  names  of  Miguel 
Hidalgo  and  Porfirio  Diaz  were  engraved  on  this  monument,  la  siem.pre 
herdica  Vera  Cruz  could  point  with  pride  to  the  greatest  trinity  ever 
produced  by  the  country,  for  Hidalgo  conceived  the  idea  of  independ- 
ence, Juarez  the  almost  equally  transcendental  one  of  curtailing  clerical 
power,  and  Diaz  had  the  soul  to  share  the  inspirations  of  these  great  men, 
along  with  the  courage  and  the  strong  will  to  carry  them  into  effect. 

We  enter  the  Avenida  Zaragoza,  follow  it  northward,  and  soon  come 
to  El  Mercado,  an  odoriferous  though  animated  and  picturesque  spot, 
directly  in  the  rear  of  the  parochial  church,  on  the  Calle  de  Zamora, 
2 min.  walk  from  the  plaza.  The  early  morning  is  the  best  time  to  saunter 
through  this  busy  market.  Here  one  gets  a fairly  adequate  idea  of  the 
almost  phenomenal  productiveness  of  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz  and  of  the 
sea  which  laves  its  shores.  The  warm  waters  of  the  Gulf  produce  many 
varieties  of  bizarre  marine  creatures,  and  the  fishing-fleet  brings  to  this 
mart  piscine  types  which  are  of  never  failing  interest  to  the  visitor.  Chief 
among  the  prized  fishes  is  the  Huachinango  ( Lutjanus  Blackfordi) , a 
species  of  red-snapper  very  abundant  off  the  coast.  Brilliantly  colored 
fishes,  varying  in  size  from  a sardine  to  a small  shark,  are  nearly  always 
to  be  seen  here,  and  in  point  of  coloring  many  of  the  specimens  are  as 
beautiful  as  the  tropical  birds  and  butterflies  which  dwell  in  the  forest 
near  the  shore.  Here  also  come  many  curious  and  oftentimes  luscious 
fruits  of  the  torrid  zone;  some  of  which,  owing  to  their  perishable  nature, 
are  quite  as  unfamiliar  to  dwellers  of  northern  Mexico  as  they  are  to 
foreigners.  But  the  traveller  will  do  well  to  avoid  eating  beguiling 
tropical  fruits  whose  characteristics  are  unknown  to  him.  Certain  harm- 
less looking  fruits  produce  fever  when  eaten  in  excess;  others  provoke 
malignant  boils  and  similar  cutaneous  disturbances,  and  certain  beautiful 
specimens  are  as  prompt  in  their  action  on  the  human  system  as  an  over- 
dose of  salts  or  castor-oil.  Certain  fruit  combinations  produce  dire 
results. 

In  the  rear  of  the  covered  market  is  an  open  square  where  a mercado 
al  fresco  is  held  Sunday  mornings;  at  this  time  the  spot  is  very  attractive. 
A visit  cannot  fail  to  impress  one  with  the  cosmopolitan  nature  of  the 
port,  and  with  the  Spanish  character  of  the  town.  The  sloe-eyed  Vera 
Cruz  housewife,  oftentimes  clad  in  a loose  gown  and  wearing  flapping 
heel-less  slippers,  comes  here  to  buy  provisions,  followed  by  a negro 
servant,  the  counterpart  of  the  “ black  mammies”  of  New  Orleans.  Stal- 
wart negresses  clad  in ‘‘ Mother-Hubbard  ” gowns,  with  hooped  rings 
swinging  from  their  ears  and  with  red  bandana  kerchiefs  tied  tightly 
about  their  woolly  heads,  are  mosaics  in  the  picture,  and  they  form 
noticeable  contrasts  with  the  olive-skinned  V eracruzanas,  the  demure 
and  somewhat  darker  Indian  matrons,  and  the  cream-white  Spanish 
senoras.  The  Creoles,  who  long  formed  a sort  of  imperium  in  imperio  in 
this  Southern  port,  are  much  in  evidence.  Havtian  and  Martinique 
negroes  and  many  other  peoples  from  the  Spanish  Main,  form  units  in 
the  heterogeneous  population.  Many  of  the  shops  or  stalls  of  the  mercado 
are  primitive  affairs,  protected  from  the  sun  by  squares  of  matting  or 
canvas  stretched  over  a bamboo  framework  and  supported,  like  a huge 


476  Route  50. 


V ERA  CRUZ 


Excursions. 


square,  or  a kite-shaped  umbrella,  by  a single  pole.  Squatting  beneath 
these  are  the  darK-SKinned  venders,  some  with  a swarthy  babe  strapped 
across  the  back,  tucked  in  the  rebozo  or  sprawling  beside  the  wares. 
Fragrant  limes,  pomegranates,  shaddocks,  alligator-pears,  pineapples, 
oranges,  and  a variety  of  tempting  fruit  lie  side  by  side  with  pumpkin 
seeds,  cheap  German  mirrors,  metal  combs,  red  beans,  peppers,  home- 
made wooden  spoons,  and  pottery  dishes  filled  with  sizzling  meats  and 
native  goodies,  I igliting  cockerels  sitting  in  straw  funnels  or  straw  hats 
whose  flaps  meet  and  are  tied  above  their  backs,  are  characteristic  fea- 
tures of  most  Mex.  markets,  for  chicken-fighting  ( pdea  de  gallos ) is  an 
alleged  sport  which  taints  the  native  mind  from  El  Paso  to  Guatemala. 
It  requires  but  little  bantering  to  cause  the  owner  of  any  of  these  game 
birds  to  whip  it  out  of  its  uncomfortable  prison,  pit  it  to  an  eager  oppo- 
nent, and  sacrifice  it  on  the  altar  of  greed  or  pride.  The  passion  for  cock- 
fighting  is,  in  fact,  as  dominant  among  the  lower-class  Mexicans  as  crap- 
shooting  is  among  certain  Southern  darkies.  A stroll  through  a Mex. 
market  is  not  infrequently  interrupted  by  the  excited  clamor  of  an  eager 
crowd  and  by  an  impromptu  “pit”  in  which  the  quick  eye  may  detect  a 
confused  whirl  of  feathered  bodies  a foot  or  more  above  the  ground,  the 
swift  flashing  of  steel  gaffs  and,  a moment  later,  a dead  and  perhaps 
dying  rooster. 

Chickens  are  to  Mexico  what  pigs  are  to  Ireland,  and  the  polio  always 
figures  in  a Mex.  market  and  on  the  native  menu.  The  market-women 
have  the  habit  of  plucking  fowls  coincident  with  their  bargaining,  just  as 
industrious  female  venders  knit  and  do  tatting  in  other  lands.  Mex. 
servants  will  oftentimes  purchase  a chicken  at  a market  stall  and  while 
searching  for  sage,  garlic,  or  whatnot  as  spicing  and  stuffing  for  the  ill- 
fated  creature,  strip  it  as  they  go,  and  leave  a fluffy  trail  of  flying  and 
adhesive  pin  feathers  in  their  wake.  Though  sometimes  disquieting  to 
visitors,  these  feathers  form  the  least  objectionable  features  of  a native 
market.  The  intestines  of  the  fowls  are  usually  flung  in  the  nearest 
gutter  to  be  contended  for  by  pariah  dogs,  cats,  and  keen-eyed  crows  and 
zopilotes.  Adjacent  to  the  fruit,  fish,  and  vegetable  stalls  one  generally 
finds  flower-stalls;  the  love  for  flowers  forming  a redeeming  trait  in  the 
character  of  the  Mex.  Indian.  The  native  taste  is  for  rich  coloring  and 
heavy  scents.  A feature  of  flower-markets  is  the  varied  set  pieces  — 
wreaths,  crosses,  and  church  offerings.  Flowers  in  a native  market  would 
appeal  more  directly  to  the  visitor  did  not  the  floreras  spend  their  spare 
moments  scouting  for  poachers  in  the  tangled  jungles  of  their  com- 
patriots’ hair. 

To  the  Cementerw  General , S.-E.  of  the  Paseo  de  los  Cocos.  10 min.  walk 
from  the  plaza.  Tram-car  marked  "Principal"  or  “ Laguna  por  Cristo .” 
A quaint  spot  with  many  crumbling  tombs,  several  of  them  erected  to 
the  memory  of  English  sailors.  Above  the  gateway  is  the  stirring  com- 
mand ; 

/ Postraos  ! 

Aqut  la  eternidad  empieza 

Y es  polio  aqui  la  mundanal  grandeza. 

Manv  of  the  tombs  are  let  into  the  thick  walls,  a practice  prohibited  by 
the  Reform  Laws. 

There  is  a fairlv  clean  stretch  of  sandy  beach  (good  playground  for 
children)  to  the  N.-E.  of  this  spot  (S.  of  the  steamship  landing). 

Excursions:  Several  interesting  tropical  excursions  are  possible  over 
the  rlv.  and  steamship  lines  of  the  Vera  Cruz  Railways,  Ltd.  The  officers 
(English  spoken)  will  aid  the  traveller  to  plan  his  journey  and  to  econo- 
mize his  time.  An  enjoyable  trip  can  be  made  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Alva- 
rado bvrail  (p.  481).  thence  by  the  company’s  river  steamboat  to  San 
Juan  Evangelista , where  a short  rail  ride  lands  the  traveller  at  Jit  He* 
on  the  main  line  of  the  Tehuantepec  National  Railway  (Rte.  63).  Salina 
Cruz  p.  556)  is  then  near  at  hand,  and  closer  still  is  the  interesting  old 
Isthmian  city  of  Tehuantepec  (p.  554).  At  San  Geronimo  (p  554),  ter- 
minus of  the  Pan-American  Railway  (p.  558),  ODe  boards  a train  that 
runs  southward  through  Chiapas  to  Guatemala.  Returning  one  may  take 
the  Vera  Cruz  <£*  Isthmus  Rly.  train  at  Santa  Lucrecia  (p.  553)  and  travel 


San  Juan  de  Ulua.  VERA  CRUZ 


50.  Route.  477 


back  to  Cordoba  (p.  486)  over  “The  Heart  of  the  Tropics  Line”  through 
one  of  the  most  favored  and  beautiful  regions  of  Mexico.  Baggage  can 
be  checked  through  to  River  Ports,  thus  avoiding  transfer  charges  and 
re-checking  at  Alvarado. 

To  the  Isla  de  los  Sacrificios  (PI.  D,  5),  a popular  island  resort, 
tug-boat  leaves  on  special  days  (see  hand-bills)  from  the  Muelle  de  San- 
idad  at  9.30  a.  m.  and  3 p.  m.  The  island  was  so  named  by  Juan  de  Gri- 
jalva, who  touched  there  in  1518  and  found  the  bloody  remains  of  hu- 
man victims  of  sacrifice  in  one  of  the  temples. 

The  Bay  and  Harbor  (PI.  C,  3),  formed  by  the  coast  and  the  Gallega 
Reef  (on  which  stands  the  Castillo  de  San  Juan  de  Ulua),  are  difficult  of 
entrance  for  ships  because  of  the  number  of  small  reefs  which  lie  contigu- 
ous to  them.  The  harbor  has  an  area  of  550  acres  and  an  average  deoth 
of  30  ft.;  the  mouth  is  86  ft.  wide  and  is  protected  by  a modern  light- 
house. The  sea  wall  (with  a coping  of  Scandinavian  granite)  reclaimed 
90  acres  from  the  harbor  and  added  them  to  the  town.  The  Port  Works 
were  constructed  less  than  a decade  ago,  by  the  English  contracting 
firm  of  S.  Pearson  & Son, Ltd.,  and  cost  the  Mex.  government  $30,000,000. 
Formerly,  at  the  approach  of  a norther,  ships  were  obliged  to  put  out 
to  sea  for  safety,  but  the  huge  breakwaters  ( romveolas , malecones)  have 
made  the  harbor  a safe  one.  The  artificial  concrete  blocks  used  in  their 
construction  weighed  35  tons  each,  and  were  made  of  crushed  stone  from 
the  Penuela  quarries,  63  M.  distant,  on  the  Mex  Rly.  Four  huge  romveo- 
las constitute  the  exterior  protective  works  and  enable  the  largest  ships 
to  ride  out  the  most  furious  nortes  in  safetv.  In  calm  weather  thev  form 
the  favorite  promenades  of  the  towns-people.  who  come  here  for  the  fresher 
and  cooler  air.  The  visitor  should  stroll  out  to  the  end  of  one  of  the 
breakwaters  for  the  sake  of  the  view,  and  for  a look  at  the  many  brilliant 
fish  which  the  fishermen  bring  up  from  the  depths  of  the  bay.  The 
sharks  in  the  bay  are  so  numerous  and  so  fierce  that  they  are  a constant 
menace  to  the  fisherman  and  longshoreman.  Long  man-eaters  are  fre- 
quently caught  and  brought  to  the  muelle  (quav,  embankment),  and  are 
there  cut  up  and  distributed  among  the  fishermen,  who  wage  a holy  war 
against  them.  Strangers  should  never  undertake  boating  or  fishing  trips 
in  the  bay  without  first  seeking  the  advice  of  some  resident,  as  fatalities 
among  fishermen  who  come  from  the  interior  towns  for  an  outing  are 
numerous.  (Compare  Weather  Indications,  page  471.) 

The  Castillo  de  San  Juan  de  Ulua  (PI.  D,  2),  on  la  Gallega 
Island , in  the  Bay  of  Vera  Cruz,  about  1 M.  from  the  mainland, 
with  a fort,  an  arsenal,  a dry-dock,  ship-yard,  light-house,  and 
a military  prison  ( presidio  militar),  contains  also  a chapel  de- 
dicated to  Nuestra  Sehora  de  la  Escalera  (Our  Lady  of  the 
Stair),  in  which  offerings  were  formerly  made  to  ensure  a safe 
return  from  sea  voyages.  The  VeraCruz  marine  signal  station 
is  located  here.  The  light-house  ( farol ),  on  one  of  the  angles 
of  the  fortress,  is  of  the  3d  order  with  a tower  76  ft.  high, 
and  lamps  that  flash  a white  light,  followed  by  a partial  eclipse, 
then  a light  (visible  15  M.  at  sea),  followed  by  a momentary 
total  eclipse.  A fine  view  of  the  town,  the  Isla  de  Sacri- 
ficios, the  bay,  and  the  adjacent  country  is  possible  from  the 
summit  of  the  tower. 

Permits  to  visit  the  castle  are  necessary  and  they  can  be  obtained  by 
applving  in  person  to  the  Comandante  Militar  (military  governor)  at 
the  Comandancia  Militar,  on  th eAve.de  la  I ndependencia,  near  the  Paseo 
de  los  Cocos,  5 min.  walk  from  the  plaza.  The  Governor’s  office  (de- 
spacho)  is  in  the  cuartel  (barrack).  The  best  time  to  apply  is  between 
10  and  11  a.  m.  The  castillo  should  be  visited  between  10  and  11  a.  m. 
or  4 and  5 p.  m..  as  the  workshops  close  at  11.30  a.  m.  for  the  noontime 
meal  and  rest.  Cameras  (comp.  p.  lxxix)  and  note-books  should  be  left 


VERA  CRUZ 


47S  Route  50. 


History. 


on  shore.  Boats  from  any  of  the  piers,  SI  for  the  round  trip,  for  1-2  per- 
sons. If  there  be  more  than  2 in  the  party  an  agreement  should  be  reached 
with  the  boatman  before  embarking.  For  50  c.  additional  the  boatman 
will  row  one  to  the  west  side  of  the  island,  or  past  the  fine  breakwater 
to  the  N.  of  the  port.  The  castle  landing  is  at  the  foot  of  a heavily  barred 
gate  on  the  side  facing  the  town.  The  permit  (one  is  sufficient  for  a party) 
is  handed  to  the  captain  in  command  of  the  fortress  {El  Capitan  de  la 
Fortaleza ),  to  whom  it  is  addressed.  If  the  captain  conducts  the  party 
about,  no  fees  should  be  offered ; if  he  details  an  orderly  to  the  duty,  a small 
fee  will  be  acceptable,  but  it  is  in  no  wise  obligatory.  The  convicts  in 
the  prison  (usually  long-term  men  put  there  for  serious  crimes)  are  per- 
mitted to  make  and  sell  souvenirs  — usually  blackened  cocoa-nut 
shells,  carved,  with  infinite  patience  and  at  the  expense  of  months  of 
time,  into  grotesque  scrolls,  faces,  and  the  like.  Some  of  the  designs 
are  ingenious  and  elaborate;  bits  of  glass  are  used  in  lieu  of  other  tools. 
A finely  carved  nut  can  be  bought  for  $2  to  S3.  Minor  souvenirs  in  the 
shape  of  peach-seeds  carved  to  represent  monkeys  and  miniature  baskets 
are  offered  at  25  c.  each. 

The  corner-stone  of  the  castillo  was  laid  in  1528  on  the  spot  where 
Juan  de  Grijalva  first  landed  10  years  before.  When  Grijalva  was  ex- 
ploring this  island  he  “asked  an  Indian  the  significance  of  the  detest- 
able rite  of  ripping  open  living  human  bodies  and  offering  bloody  hearts 
to  hungry  gods;  and  the  heathen  answered  because  the  people  of  Culhua, 
or  Ulua,  as  he  pronounced  the  name,  would  have  it  so.  From  this  cir- 
cumstance, together  with  the  fact  that  the  name  of  the  commander  was 
Juan , and  that  it  was  now  about  the  time  of  the  anniversary  of  the 
feast  of  John  the  Baptist,  the  island  'was  named  San  Juan  de  Ulua.” 
The  foundations  of  the  fort  are  unusually  massive,  and  those  below  the 
water-line  are  said  to  have  cost  upward  of  four  millions  of  pesos.  That 
they  are  solidly  built  is  evidenced  by  the  fact  that  they  have  with- 
stood the  incessant  pounding  of  the  sea  for  nearly  four  centuries.  In 
1746  the  fort  was  mounted  with  120  guns  and  three  mortars.  In  1771 
the  Vicerov,  Marques  de  la  Croix,  spent  a million  and  a half  pesos  in 
strengthening  the  castle  and  in  equipping  it  wdth  100  brass  cannon  and 
about  50  pieces  of  ordnance  made  of  iron,  the  latter  of  heavy  calibre. 
Greed  and  graft  were  not  unknown  in  the  time  of  the  Spanish  Viceroys, 
and  the  new  Crown  possessions  offered  an  attractive  field  to  the  poor 
but  proud  nobility  sent  out  to  govern  them.  The  immense  sums  spent 
on  Ulua  — in  all  purported  to  be  about  40  millions  of  pesos  — and  in 
Vera  Cruz  attracted  the  attention  of  Charles  V,  who,  one  day  as  he 
stood  on  the  balcony  of  his  palace  in  Spain,  shaded  his  eyes  and  looked 
intently  toward  the  west.  “At  what  is  your  majesty  looking?  ” inquired 
a courtier.  “I  am  looking  for  San  Juan  de  Ulua”  the  King  answered; 
“it  has  cost  me  enough  to  be  seen  across  the  sea!”  Until  recent  times 
the  island  was  used  exclusively  as  a penal  settlement.  A twenty  years’ 
sentence  to  this  vresidio  was  iong  considered  the  equivalent  of  a quick 
doom.  During  the  Spanish  regime  the  unfortunates  sent  there  were  to  be 
commiserated.  Many  of  the  cells  were  mere  holes  in  the  sea-wall,  and 
were  half-flooded  at  high-tide  — which  here  attains  a maximum  of  3 
ft.  Some  of  the  dungeons  were  too  small  to  admit  the  bulk  of  a man  in 
any  but  a crouching  position,  and  the  walls  were  vermin-infested  and 
slimy  with  the  filth  of  centuries.  When  the  tide  made  in,  the  unhappy 
prisoner  sat  immersed  to  his  chin  in  salt  water.  Food  was  lowered  to 
him  through  a man-hole  in  the  upper  pavement.  Three  months  of  this 
confinement  usually  sufficed  to  kill  the  prisoner  or  to  render  him  insane. 
The  dungeons  still  exist,  but  the  humane  Mexican  Government  does  not 
confine  culprits  in  them.  The  castle  was  the  last  Spanish  stronghold  on 
Mexican  soil  at  the  close  of  the  war  for  independence.  On  Sept.  15,  1824, 
the  Castilian  flag  was  lowered  finally  from  its  towers. 

History.  After  Francisco  Hernandez  de  Cordoba  had  discovered 
(Mch.  4,  1517)  the  coast  of  Yucatan,  the  Governor  of  Cuba  ( Velasquez ) 
despatched  another  expedition  to  that  region,  placing  it  in  command  of 
Juan  de  Grijalva.  He  sailed  along  the  coast  of  Mexico  and  landed,  in 
1518,  on  the  spot  now  occupied  by  the  Castle  of  San  Juan  de  Ulua. 
Grijalva  found  the  mainland  so  rich,  and  the  trading  so  profitable,  that 


History. 


VERA  CRUZ 


60.  Route.  479 


on  his  return  Velasquez  fitted  out  another  expedition  — which  he 
placed  under  the  command  of  Hernando  Cortes , then  34  years  old  — 
for  the  conquest  and  exploitation  of  the  newly  discovered  territory.  The 
ships  captained  by  Cortes  anchored  in  the  roadstead  April  21,  1519.  The 
next  day  Cortes  landed  on  the  site  of  the  present  town,  then  a wild  spot, 
called  by  the  Indians  Chalchiuhouecan . Because  the  landing  was  made 
on  Good  Friday  (on  which  the  Catholic  Church  venerates  the  true  cross), 
and  because  the  adjacent  country  was  very  rich  and  tropical,  Cortes 
named  the  spot  La  Villa  Rica  de  la  Vera  Cruz  — the  rich  town  of  the 
true  cross.  Huts  ( jacales ) were  hastily  constructed,  a pillory  (apparently 
a necessary  adjunct  to  the  alleged  civilization  of  the  time)  was  erected 
in  what  is  now  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitution,  and  for  the  King  of  Spain, 
and  in  the  name  of  all  the  saints  the  invaders  could  think  of,  they  declared 
themselves  lords  of  the  continent.  The  town-site  was  soon  found  to 
be  unhealthy,  and  another  settlement  was  founded  about  a mile  from 
the  Indian  town  of  Quizhuiztla  — which  was  drier  and  nearer  the  hills. 
A fort  and  a stockade  were  erected  as  a military  base  to  be  used  when- 
ever the  maltreated  and  enraged  natives  turned  on  their  tormentors, 
and  forthwith  Cortes  set  out  on  his  famous  march  to  Cempoalla;  where, 
with  considerable  perfidy,  and  not  a little  cruelty,  he  secured  the  ad- 
hesion of  the  Totonaca  Indians  as  allies  in  his  future  battles  with  the 
Aztecs  of  Tenochtitldn. 

In  1599  Gaspar  de  Zuniga,  Viceroy  of  Mexico  and  Count  of  Monterey, 
ordered  the  town  removed  to  the  original  site  selected  by  Cortes  in  1519. 
For  many  years  the  present  town  was  called  New  Vera  Cruz  to  differen- 
tiate it  from  the  old,  abandoned  town.  Until  about  1850  a high  stone 
wall  ( muralla ) surrounded  the  port,  completely  excluding  the  purifying 
sea  breezes  and  rendering  it  one  of  the  unhealthiest  spots  on  the  Gulf 
coast.  The  wall  was  a massive  affair  (erected  in  1746)  with  seven  huge 
gates,  one  reserved  for  the  exclusive  use  of  the  Viceroy.  For  three  cent- 
uries Vera  Cruz  was  the  terror  of  sea-faring  men,  who  knew  it  as  the 
“ Gridiron  of  the  West,”  in  contradistinction  to  the  Dutch  city  of 
Batavia  (Java),  called  the  ‘‘Gridiron  of  the  East.”  Until  a year  or  so  ago 
open  sewers  disfigured  the  narrow  streets  and  Yellow  Jack  made  the  place 
his  permanent  abode.  Few  cities  have  suffered  more  heart-breaking  trials. 
The  town  has  been  repeatedlv  sacked  by  buccaneers,  bombarded  by 
foreign  fleets,  scourged  by  cholera  and  yellow  fever,  torn  by  internecine 
strife  and  buffeted  and  wrecked  by  hurricanes.  Whenever  a piratical 
sea-rover  wished  (in  the  words  of  Francis  Drake)  to  ‘‘singe  the  King  of 
Spain’s  beard,  ” Vera  Cruz  became  the  objective  point,  and  attempts  were 
made  to  sack  it.  One  of  the  most  tragic  events  in  its  history  was  its  cap- 
ture and  pillage  by  pirates  in  1683. 1 At  that  time  the  Gulf  and  the 
Caribbean  Sea  were  infested  by  an  infamous  gang  of  sea-rangers  captained 
by  one  Laurent  deGaff,  notorious  as  “ Lorencillo,"  the  Captain  Kidd  of  the 
region.  About  twilight  of  May  17,  1683,  two  sails  were  descried  on  the 
southern  horizon:  believing  them  peaceful  merchantmen,  the  gunners 
and  lookouts  at  the  Castillo  of  S.  J.  de  Ulua,  and  at  the  citadel  on  shore, 
paid  but  little  attention  to  them.  When  night  fell  the  two  ships  crept 
shoreward,  but  remained  out  of  range  of  the  fort  guns.  At  midnight 
200  of  the  800  pirates  on  board  disembarked  in  pirogues,  fell  upon  the 
sleeping  and  unsuspecting  town  and  soon  made  themselves  masters  of 
it.  While  some  sacked  the  houses  and  murdered  the  unarmed  defenders, 
others  rounded  up  the  inhabitants  and  conducted  them,  regardless  of  age, 
sex  or  color,  to  the  parochial  church.  Here  1500  unfortunates  remained 
shut  in  for  four  days,  while  the  buccaneers  searched  the  houses  for  valu- 
ables. Many  women  and  children  died  of  suffocation  and  hunger.  The 
ch.  itself  was  stripped  of  its  rich  ornaments,  and  when  the  robbers  de- 
parted they  carried  away  four  millions  of  silver  pesos,  beside  jewels  and 
other  valuable  objects.  When  a thing  is  lost  in  Vera  Cruz  it  is  still  the 
custom  to  say,  “ Lorencillo  lo  ha  tornado  ” — Lorencillo  has  taken  it. 

At  a later  period  the  castle  guns  were  silenced  and  the  town  pillaged 
by  pirates  under  the  noted  corsair  Nicolas  de  Agramonte.  After  robbing 


1 It  was  also  plundered  bv  the  English  corsair  John  Hawkins,  in  1568. 
He  was  aided  in  this  raid  by  Francis  Drake. 


480  Route  50.  STATE  OF  VERA  CRUZ 


the  port  of  more  than  seven  millions  of  pesos,  this  Spanish  blue-beard 
conducted  three  hundred  ill-fated  \ eracruzanos  to  the  neighboring  Isla 
de  Sacrificios,  where  they  were  left  to  perish  of  starvation.  The  anni- 
versary of  this  affair  is  still  celebrated  in  Vera  Cruz.  Nurses  still  use 
this  ruffian’s  name  to  frighten  children.  Says  a writer:  “The  very  name 
of  Vera  Cruz  is  interwoven  with  all  the  departed  romance  and  glory,  all 
the  fighting  and  bloodshed  of  the  great  days  of  the  Spanish  Main.  Through 
her  streets  the  bearded  and  bepistolled  buccaneer,  in  all  his  awful  glory, 
once  swept,  plundering,  burning  and  ravishing.  If  the  old  walls  could 
speak,  they  could  relate  such  stories  of  sack  and  fire,  of  such  devilish 
cruelty  and  desperate  combats,  the  like  of  which  even  dims  the  mur- 
derous renown  of  Morgan's  sack  (in  1671)  of  Panama.”  At  the  close 
of  the  Mexican  war  for  independence  (1821)  the  Spanish  troops,  enraged 
at  having  to  evacuate  San  Juan  de  Ulua,  their  last  stronghold  on  Mex. 
soil,  subjected  the  port  to  such  a terrific  bombardment  that  it  was  almost 
ground  to  powder.  In  1838  both  the  town  and  castle  were  attacked  by 
the  French,  and  in  1847  both  again  suffered  a cannonading  by  the  Amer- 
ican fleet  under  General  Scott.  The  effects  of  this  destructive  bombard- 
ment are  still  visible  on  the  walls  of  Ulua.  In  1858  a “norther”1 * * * *  de- 
stroyed nearly  all  the  shipping  in  the  roadstead  and  drowned  several 
hundred  sailors.  In  1859  President  Benito  Juarez  landed  here  after  a 
circular  tour  of  Mexico  and  was  besieged  by  the  Mexican  General  Mira - 
mon,  at  the  head  of  the  troops  of  Maximilian’s  empire.  In  1861  the  “in- 
tervention” fleet  appeared  in  the  offing  and  the  town  was  in  possession 
of  the  French  and  the  imperial  troops  of  Maximilian  until  1867,  when 
the  cause  of  freedom  triumphed.  Vera  Cruz  is  now7  called  la  siempre 
heroica  — the  alw7ays  heroic.  Many  of  the  old  walls  of  the  port  are  built 
of  madrepore  stone  — a sea  product  of  a coral  insect  of  the  genus  madre- 
pora. 

Vera  Cruz  Llave,  richest  of  the  Mexican  Gulf  States  (and  one  of  the 
wealthiest  in  the  Repub.),  with  an  area  of  75,651  sqr.  kiloms.  and  a pop. 
of  981,530,  is  progressive,  and  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  regions  of  the 
world.  The  name  Llave  is  in  honor  of  General  Ignacio  de  la  Llave,  w7ho 
was  governor  of  the  state  between  1857  and  1860.  It  is  bounded  on  the  N. 
by  the  states  of  Tamaulipas  and  San  Luis  Potosi;  on  the  E.  by  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico;  on  the  S.  by  Tabasco,  Chiapas  and  Oaxaca  and  on  the  W. 
by  Puebla  and  Hidalgo  Politically  it  is  divided  into  18  cantones  (subdi- 
vided into  municipalities)  which  may  be  classed  as  Maritime  and  In- 
terior. It  lies  on  the  slope  of  the  eastern  Sierra  Madre  range  and  reaches 
from  the  coast  halfway  up  to  the  Central  table-land.  Its  culminating 
point  is  the  Pico  de  Orizaba  (p.  496),  long  considered  the  highest  point 
on  the  North  American  continent.  A lesser  peak,  hard  by,  is  the  Cofre 
de  Perote  (p.  504).  Many  minor  peaks  rise  in  pointed  grandeur  from  the 
tropical  lowlands,  and  on  their  sides  vegetation  representing  every 
degree  of  climate,  from  the  torrid  to  the  frigid  zone,  is  found.  The  towns 
on  their  more  elevated  slopes  are  the  sanitaria  of  the  sun-baked  inhabit- 
ants of  the  coastal  towns.  Other  mt.  ranges  wuthin  the  state  are  the 
Maltrata,  Alcucingo,  Jalacingo,  Oxocupan  and  Zongolica.  The  eastern 
littoral  stretches  (460  kilom.)  from  the  Tampico  Bar  to  Tonala,  and 
from  the  sea  which  w7ashes  its  shores,  enough  fish  could  be  taken  to  sup- 
ply a nation.  The  N.  part  of  this  coast  is  called  the  Windwrard  Coast, 
the  S.  half,  from  Vera  Cruz  to  the  Bar  of  Tonala,  the  LeewTard  Coast. 
The  state  is  well  watered,  rich,  intensely  tropical,  and  amazingly  pro- 
ductive. A number  of  broad  rivers  — the  haunt  of  alligators,  allied 
reptilia,  and  a myriad  water-fowl — pour  their  turgid  waters  into  the 
Gulf.  Chief  among  the  rios  is  the  Panuco  (largest  of  the  state  and  knowTn 
in  the  contiguous  State  of  Hidalgo  as  the  Tula),  the  Tuxpam,  Casones, 
Tecolulla,  Nauila,  Actopan,  Antigua,  Papaloapam,  Coatzacoalcos , etc. 
The  hydrographic  basins  formed  by  these  streams  contain  the  Catemaco , 


1 These  hurricanes  were  long  the  bane  of  Vera  Cruz.  History  refers 

in  mournful  terms  to  one  of  the  most  notable  shipwrecks  of  early  times, 

the  loss  of  the  Spanish  admiral’s  ship  in  158S.  It  was  dashed  to  pieces 

on  the  reefs  at  the  mouth  of  Vera  Cruz  harbor,  and  over  180  persons 

perished  in  sight  of  town,  for  lack  of  boats  on  shore  to  deliver  them. 


VERA  CRUZ  TO  ALVARADO  51.  Rte.  481 


Ostion,  Mexcalapa , Tortuguero,  and  Tecunanapa  lakes.  It  would  require 
a book  to  list  the  fruits,  flowers,  precious  woods,  animals,  birds,  and 
fishes  of  the  state.  The  products  are  those  of  the  temperate  and  torrid 
zones  combined.  In  the  northern  region  are  the  interesting  and  ancient 
ruins  of  Misantla,  Tusupan,  Mapilca  and  Casones , the  latter  also  known 
as  Casas  Grandes  (big  houses). 


51.  From  Vera  Cruz  to  Alvarado  (by  railway ), 
thence  (by  steamboat)  to  Tlacotlalpam,  San 
Cristobal,  Cosamaloapam,  Chacaltianquis,  and 
Tuxtepec. 

70  Kilom.  Train  from  the  Terminal  Station  daily  in  about  3 hours.  For 
fare,  see  p.  xxxi.  Consult  the  company’s  folder  for  arrival  and  departure  of 
steamboats. 

Vera  Cruz,  see  p.  469.  The  line  passes  out  through  the 
suburbs,  leaving  the  Alameda,  the  Campo  Santo,  and  the  Bull- 
Ring  on  the  1. ; on  the  r.  is  the  Laguna  de  Cocos.  The  fortified 
building  on  a slight  eminence  at  the  1.  is  the  old  powder-house, 
or  Casa  Mata.  2 K.  Los  Cocos . 7 K.  Gonzalez.  10  K.  Puente 
Moreno.  15  K.  El  Tejar.  We  cross  a small  river  on  a single- 
span steel  bridge. 

16  K.  Medellin,  a favorite  resort  of  the  V eracruza nos.  Two 
rivers,  the  Atoyac  and  the  Jarnapa,  join  here.  Excellent  bath- 
ing and  fishing.  The  site  of  Medellin  was  occupied  by  an  In- 
dian town  of  some  importance  before  the  Spanish  invasion; 
the  ruins  of  a pre-historic  town,  Xicalanco,  lie  in  the  forest 
near  by.  The  Spaniards  destroyed  the  old  Indian  town,  and 
Cortes,  who  had  a special  predilection  for  the  spot,  founded  the 
new  town  and  named  it  Medellin  after  his  native  town  in  Spain 
(the  Metillinum  of  the  Romans,  Province  of  Estremadura). 
Here  he  returned  after  his  disastrous  expedition  to  Honduras 
in  1526.  During  the  siege  of  Vera  Cruz  by  the  Imperial  troops 
under  General  Miramon  (executed  with  Maximilian)  this  spot 
was  the  headquarters  of  the  army.  18  K.  Vargas . 

19  K.  Paso  del  Toro,  in  the  centre  of  a rich  farming  district  whence 
the  Vera  Cruz  markets  draw  their  main  supplies.  Many  fine  fruits  are 
grown  in  the  neighborhood,  and  fat  cattle  are  a specialty.  33  K.  Laguna , 
shipping-point  for  fine  dye-wood  (fustic).  Splendid  forests  of  valuable 
timber  surround  the  town.  One  of  the  chief  industries  is  the  exportation 
of  oil  extracted  from  the  castor-bean  ( Ricinus  communis,  or  Palma 
Christi),  which  grows  here  in  great  profusion.  35  K.  La  Piedra.  The  line 
traverses  savannahs  and  dense  tropical  jungles.  The  region  is  far  enough 
away  from  the  ocean  to  be  unaffected  by  the  salt  air,  and  the  vegetation 
is  beautiful  and  luxuriant.  The  flowering  trees,  of  which  there  are  many 
varieties,  are  sometimes  very  handsome.  Nature  has  decorated  this 
region  with  an  unusually  lavish  hand.  46  E.  Salinas.  55  K.  Camarones. 
59  K.  Buen  Pais,  noted  for  its  fine  oysters  ( ostiones ).  Vendors  bring 
them  to  the  rly.  station  for  sale  to  the  passengers.  Though  caught  in 
warm  water  the  bivalves  are  good. 

70  K.  Alvarado  (named  for  Pedro  de  Alvarado,  a trusted  lieutenant 
of  Cortes ).  ( Hotel  Olympia,  $3  Am.  PI.  No  cabs.)  Pop.  7,000.  Terminus 
of  the  rly.,  and  headquarters  of  the  deep  sea  and  river  steamers  of  the 


482  Rte.51.  ALVARADO  TO  TUXTEPEC  Cocoa-nuts. 


Vera  Cruz  R.  R.  Co.,  Ltd.  The  town  stands  on  a peninsula  formed  by 
the  sea,  the  Alvarado  River , and  the  bay  of  the  same  name.  It  is  a quaint, 
old-fashioned  fishing  village,  more  like  a 16th  than  a 20th  cent,  place. 
A line  of  sand  dunes  rise  directly  back  of  the  port:  beyond  these  many 
graceful  palms  raise  their  plumed  heads  and  advertise  the  dense  jungle 
which  stretches  inland.  The  warm  waters  of  the  bay  teem  with  fine  fish, 
turtles,  crabs,  and  oysters.  A time-stained  old  church  bearing  the  date 
of  1779  faces  the  plaza . At  one  side  of  this,  near  the  ch.,  is  an  oblong 
stone  ornament  with  carved  Indian  figures,  brought  from  some  deserted 
ruin  in  the  forest.  Pedro  de  Alvarado  entered  the  bay  which  now  bears 
his  name  in  1518,  during  the  progress  of  the  Grijalva  expedition.  The 
Indian  inhabitants  were  soon  pacified,  and  for  many  years  the  port  was 
the  centre  of  operations  against  the  interior.  Large  fleets  of  up-river 
canoes  came  hither  to  barter  native  merchandise  for  the  trinkets  sup- 
plied by  the  Spaniards.  During  the  bombardment  of  Vera  Cruz  by  the 
Spanish  garrison  in  the  Castillo  de  San  Juan  de  Ulua,  the  wealthier 
merchants  moved  hither.  While  the  Americans  were  investing  Vera 
Cruz,  Alvarado  was  seized  by  Lieutenant  Hunter  of  the  U.  S.  S.  Scourge, 
and  the  town  was  the  scene  of  several  sanguinary  battles.  The  remains 
of  an  old  battery  are  still  visible  in  the  shifting  sands.  Hard  by  is  a half- 
buried  and  rusty  cannon  bearing  the  broad  arrow  and  Crown  mark  of  the 
British  Government.  The  region  in  which  Alvarado  lies  is  known  as  the 
Sotavento,  or  Leeward  Coast. 

From  ( Vera  Cruz)  Alvarado  to  Tlacotalpam,  San  Cristobal,  Cosamaloapam, 
Chacaltianquis  and  Tdxtepec,  by  river  (continuation  of  Rte.  51). 

Departamento  de  Navegacion,  F errocarriles  de  Vera  Cruz , Ltd.  The 
mail  boats  run  throughout  the  year  to  T uxtepec , where  they  transfer 
passengers  for  up-river  points  to  cargo  boats  and  to  the  light  draught 
vessels  which  ascend  the  shallow  confluents.  The  service  changes  with 
the  seasons,  and  the  traveller  is  recommended  to  the  general  office  of 
the  company  in  Vera  Cruz  for  tariff -sheets  and  sailing-dates. 

Soon  after  leaving  Alvarado  the  river  channel  narrows  and 
the  boat  follows  the  sinuosities  of  the  stream ; now  approach- 
ing one  bank,  now  the  other.  The  scenery  is  tropical  and  the 
views  picturesque.  On  each  side  of  the  river  are  small  ranchos 
(devoted  to  the  raising  of  sugar-cane  or  some  tropical  product), 
dotted  with  palm-thatched  huts  from  which  a path  invariably 
leads  to  the  river.  Hanging  on  some  convenient  tree  near  the 
bank  is  the  inevitable  fishing-net,  while  moored  hard  by  is  a 
canoe  hollowed  out  of  a cedar  log  or  some  light  wood.  Tall 
cocoa-nut  trees  shade  each  diminutive  native  home  and  fur- 
nish many  articles  necessary  to  the  native  economy. 

The  original  home  of  the  Cocoa-Nut  Tree  ( Cocos  nucifera)  is  the 
East  Indies,  although  it  is  now  common  in  tropical  America.  On  many 
a crescent-shaped  beach  along  the  Gulf  shore  these  noble  trees  may  be 
seen  in  all  their  beauty  and  productiveness.  “As  if  mindful  of  the  rest- 
less waves  that  bore  its  parent  nut  to  these  shores,  it  delights  to  keep 
them  company.  The  scent  of  the  salt  spray  is  dearer  to  it  than  the  most 
fragrant  breeze  that  ever  blew  across  a flower-crowned  hill  or  verdant 
inland  valley,  and  it  haunts  the  abode  of  man  so  long  as  he  lives  near  the 
ocean;  which  it  loves  as  the  pine  loves  the  hills.”  The  rough,  cylindrical 
trunks  are  sometimes  2 ft.  thick  and  they  soar  50  ft.  or  more  above  the 
ground,  bearing  great  clusters  of  valuable  fruit  amid  their  crowning  tufts 
of  feathery  leaves.  What  the  cactus  is  to  the  highlander,  the  cocoa-nut 
is  to  the  natives  of  the  tropical  littoral  — its  fruit  furnishes  food  and 
drink,  its  leaves  are  used  to  thatch  their  cottages;  to  make  matting  for 
floors  and  for  clothing;  for  baskets  and  bags,  fans  and  whatnot,  and  to  be 


Tuxtepec. 


TLACOTALPAM 


51.  Route.  483 


used  in  lieu  of  spoons,  dishes,  paper,  and  a host  of  other  things.  The 
unripe  fruit  supplies  a very  refreshing  (but  slightly  laxative)  drink.  For 
this  the  nut  is  taken  when  quite  green,  the  cap  is  cut  off  the  small  end 
by  a quick  blow  of  a strong  knife,  and  the  sweetish  white  water  is  drunk 
clear,  or  mixed  with  a little  spirits.  When  the  nut  is  half-matured  a small 
white  lump  (the  ovule),  like  the  stalk  of  a young  mushroom,  can  be 
discerned  amid  the  creamy,  half-formed  mass.  This  ovule  is  always 
opposite  the  soft  eye  (the  two  remaining  are  filled  with  hard  shell)  and 
as  the  nut  lies  in  the  sand,  exposed  to  heat,  rain,  and  dew,  the  lump 
develops  into  a baby  finger  which  seeks  with  unerring  accuracy  the 
vulnerable  exit.  Once  in  the  sunlight,  the  now  green  finger  curves 
upward,  while  fibrous  nerves  draw  the  life  principle  from  the  albuminous 
cream  which  lines  the  inside  of  the  shell.  As  the  roots  grow  downward 
the  green,  embryonic  trunk  starts  upward.  In  seven  years  it  matures 
and  bears  fruit  during  its  life  of  sixty  years  or  longer. 

As  we  ascend  the  river  the  cocoa-nut  groves  thin  out,  then 
finally  disappear. 

Tlacotalpam,  the  first  big  town  on  the  right,  was  an  im- 
portant Indian  post  in  pre-Spanish  days.  ( Hotel  Central , 
facing  the  steamer-landing,  $3  Am.  PI.)  The  streets  of  the 
town  (known  as  La  Perla  de  la  Costa  — pearl  of  the  coast  — and 
which  stands  at  the  meeting-point  of  the  San  Juan  and  Papa - 
loapam  Rivers ),  run  parallel  with  the  river,  which  is  here 
flanked  by  pretty,  flower-embowered  houses.  It  was  made  a 
ciudad  in  1847  to  commemorate  an  heroic  repulse  of  the  Ameri- 
can troops.  The  country  roundabout  produces  great  numbers 
of  fat  cattle  for  the  various  Mexican  markets.  Two  churches 
(uninteresting)  face  the  main  plaza , along  with  the  casa  muni- 
cipal. Hard  by  the  town  is  a house  in  which  Porfirio  Diaz  is 
said  to  have  had  his  temporary  headquarters  during  his  early 
struggles  for  prominence.  Opposite  the  town  a white  line  of 
foam  marks  the  junction  of  the  waters  of  the  San  Juan  and 
the  Papaloapam  Rivers. 

Above  Tlacotalpam  vast  banana  plantations  line  the  river-bank.  Nine 
miles  beyond,  an  important  tributary,  the  Tesechoacan  River , joins  the 
main  stream.  Sugar  plantations  stretch  away  from  the  bank  on  either 
side;  at  Amatlan  and  San  Cristobal  the  country  is  like  one  vast  sugar 
estate.  According  to  an  authority  this  region  could  supply  all  Europe 
with  sugar  were  all  the  arable  land  under  cultivation.  The  largest  estate 
is  that  of  San  Cristobal,  which  employs  one  small  rly.  and  600  men. 
Under  ordinary  conditions  600  tons  of  cane  are  crushed  and  2,000  bbls. 
of  sugar  and  120  bbls.  of  rum  are  produced  daily.  Cosamaloapam,  a few 
miles  up  stream  from  San  Cristobal,  birthplace  of  the  poet  Manuel 
Carpio  (1791),  in  the  centre  of  a very  productive  fruit  region,  was  of 
much  importance  during  the  Viceregal  period.  The  Indian  ch.  offers 
nothing  to  interest  the  visitor.  Chacaltianguis  (75  M.  from  Alvarado) 
a charmingly  tropical  village,  untouched  by  the  white  hand  of  progress, 
is  the  highest  point  of  navigation  for  the  deep  draught  boats,  and  pas- 
sengers are  here  transferred  to  smaller  and  less  comfortable  vessels. 
The  effects  of  the  ocean  tide  are  felt  slightly.  We  soon  come  to  Paso  de 
Salas,  near  which  the  Rio  Tonto  (fool  river,  not  so  shallow  as  the  name 
implies,  since  in  some  places  it  is  60  ft.  deep)  joins  the  main  stream. 

Tuxtepec,  head  of  navigation  on  the  Papaloapam  River , a shipping 
town  of  some  importance,  lies  contiguous  to  a number  of  celebrated 
tobacco  plantations;  the  Valle  Nacional,  Santa  Rosa,  Ojitlan,  etc.  The 
region  bears  the  same  relation  to  Mexico  that  the  famous  V uelto  Aba  jo 
does  to  Cuba,  in  that  it  produces  tobacco  of  noteworthy  excellence.  The 
greatest  tobacco  factories  in  Vera  Cruz  draw  their  supplies  hence.  From 


4S4  Rte.  52.  VERA  CRUZ  TO  MEXICO  CITY 


this  point  pack-trains  penetrate  to  the  interior  of  the  country  and  bring 
out  the  varied  products  of  the  hills  — rubber,  coffee,  sugar,  vanilla, 
ginger,  ramie,  and  a multitude  of  tropical  commodities.  The  old  Indian 
village  of  Tochtepec  occupied  the  site  of  the  present  town  before  the 
Spanish  invasion.  In  1521  the  enraged  natives  rose  en  masse  against  their 
foreign  oppressors,  and  slew  the  80  Spaniards  comprising  the  garrison. 
Alvarado  then  besieged  the  town,  defeated  the  inhabitants  and  burned 
the  unfortunate  cacique  alive  in  his  own  market-place. 


52.  From  Vera  Cruz  via  Cordoba,  Orizaba,  and 
San  Juan  Teotihuacan  to  Mexico  City. 

MEXICAN  RAILROAD  — Ferrocarril  Mexicano. 

(From  the  Terminal  Station) 

To  Mexico  City:  424  Kiloms.  (265  M.).  Frequent  trains  in  about  12  hrs. 
Fare  S18.75,  1st  cl.  Pullman  S13.40  (upper  berth  S11.20  — seat  SS.20  — 
Drawing-room  S49.10).  As  the  ride  to  Mexico  City  is  one  of  the  most  inter- 
esting and  picturesque  on  the  continent,  strangers  should  plan  to  make  it 
by  daylight  ( best  views  from  the  left  side  of  the  train).  There  is  a good  buf- 
fet in  the  Pullman.  — To  be  sure  of  a seat  in  the  day  coach  one  must  arrive 
early,  as  the  line  is  popular  and  the  cars  often  crowded.  There  is  a satisfac- 
tory’ rly.  restaurant  at  Esp;ranza. 

Orizaba  (p.  489),  midway  between  the  coast  and  the  highlands,  with  a 
soft,  healthful  climate,  pure  water,  comfortable  hotels,  etc.,  makes  a good 
stop-over  place.  Attractive,  with  many  delightful  walks  in  the  environs. 

Many  foreigners  are  located  in  Orizaba,  which  is  one  of  the  quaintest 
cities  in  the  Republic. 

Passengers  for  points  on  the  Vera  Cruz  and  Isthmus  Rly.  (Rte.  62)  change 
cars  at  Cordoba;  also  for  towns  on  the  Cordoba  and  Huatusco  Line.  For 
Tehuacan  and  the  Mexican  Southern  Rly.  (Rte.  59)  at  Esperanza:  for  Pa- 
chuca,  at  Ometusco , and  for  Puebla  at  Apizaco. 

Vera  Cruz,  see  p.  469.  The  line  describes  a curve  and 
traverses  the  suburbs,  passing  within  sight  of  the  Cementerio, 
the  Casa  Mata , and  Alameda,  and  many  of  the  diminutive  but 
picturesque  homes  of  the  natives.  Sand-dunes  alternate  with 
marsh-lands,  the  latter  the  home  of  many  wild-fowl.  The 
Laguna  de  Cocos  (cocoa-nut  lagoon)  is  the  spot  wdiere  the 
Mexican  army  which  defended  Vera  Cruz  during  the  American 
bombardment  surrendered  (1847)  to  the  American  General 
Scott.  The  Pico  de  Orizaba  (p.  496)  is  seen  silhouetted  against 
the  northern  sky-line.  Red-roofed  (tile)  houses,  primitive 
sugar-cane  reduction- works,  bizarre  trees  with  brilliant  flowers, 
palms,  palmettos  and  Spanish  bayonets  are  features  of  the 
landscape.  Across  the  jungle-tops  we  see  a range  of  fine  blue 
hills  in  the  distance.  20  K.  Santa  Rita.  31  K.  La  Purga.  Here- 
about are  some  splendid  trees,  known  as  Arboles  de  Patancan , 
with  fine  white  flowers.  42  K.  Soledad.  The  peace  treaty  be- 
tween the  Spanish  General  Prim  and  the  Mex.  General  Dob- 
lado  was  concluded  here  in  1862.  We  cross  the  Rio  Jamapa 
on  a fine  bridge  over  400  ft.  long.  On  the  r.  is  a deep  gorge 
with  a rushing  river  and  the  remains  of  an  old  Spanish  cause- 
way. The  country  is  broken  into  hills  and  valleys.  63  K. 
Camaron . The  monument  and  the  white  stone  slab  at  the 


VERA  CRUZ  TO  MEXICO  CITY  52.  Rte.  485 


left  of  the  track,  opposite  the  station,  commemorate  the 
French  soldiers  buried  here  during  the  War  of  the  Interven- 
tion. We  ascend  through  narrow  valleys  and  rocky  defiles. 

76  K.  Paso  del  Macho  (Mule  Pass),  1,500  ft.  The  warm, 
humid  air  of  the  coast  lands,  laden  with  the  pungent  smell  of 
rank,  tropical  vegetation,  merges  into  waves  of  cooler  moun- 
tain air  in  which  the  senses  register  faint  piny  odors.  The 
myriad  birds  that  impart  life  and  color  to  the  lagoons  adjacent 
to  Vera  Cruz  rarely  pass  the  dividing-line  between  the  foot- 
hills and  the  mts.,  as  the  keen-eyed  eagles  and  sharp-taloned 
hawks  which  infest  the  higher  reaches  are  not  to  the  liking  of 
timid  egrets,  ducks,  parakeets  and  similar  species.  A few 
miles  beyond  P.  del  M.  we  cross  the  San  Alejo  bridge  (318  ft.). 
At  Chiquihuite  siding  is  another  bridge  220  ft.  long,  and  just 
before  we  reach  Atoyac  there  is  a bridge  spanning  the  Atoyac 
River  — which  flows  E.  from  here  and  empties  into  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  53  M.  distant.  Between  the  Chiquihuite  (basket)  and 
the  Atoyac  bridges  are  the  Falls  of  Atoyac , insignificant  during 
the  dry  season  but  a roaring,  leaping  cataract  during  the 
estacion  de  las  aguas.  86  K.  Atoyac.  Hard  by  is  a splendid 
cavern  ( caverna ) discovered  July  21,  1906. 

The  rails  cross  a section  of  the  Gruta  de  Atoyac  and  in  the  interior  of 
the  cave  the  rumble  of  the  train  overhead  sounds  like  reverberating 
thunder.  Prehistoric  instruments,  fragments  of  pottery,  skeletons  and 
many  relics  of  a vanished  race  of  Indians  were  found  in  the  wide  salas. 
There  are  also  many  fine  stalactites  and  stalagmites.  Explorations  are  in 
progress  and  efforts  are  being  made  to  sound  the  cave  to  its  limit.  The 
rly.  runs  excursion  trains  from  Mexico  City,  Cordoba  and  other  points 
(see  the  newspapers  for  rates  and  dates).  The  traveller  who  wishes  to 
stop  over  at  Atoyac  may  secure  through  tickets  with  stop-over  privileges. 
The  cave  is  within  easy  walking  distance  of  the  station.  Guides  are 
easily  procurable.  Consult  the  station-master. 

97  K.  Paraje  Nuevo.  The  ascent  becomes  visibly  steeper, 
and  sharp  4%  grades  make  the  powerful  engines  snort  and 
wheeze  till  the  surrounding  hills  fling  back  the  echo  of  their 
efforts.  The  potent  hill-climbing  locomotives  ( Fairlie ) are 
equipped  with  powerful  brakes  supplemented  by  auxiliaries 
and  hand-brakes,  and  a slip-back  is  practically  impossible. 
Soon  the  rank  vegetation  of  the  tropics,  and  the  giant  hot- 
country  trees  garlanded  with  beautifully  tinted  orchids  drop 
silently  behind,  like  fagged  runners  in  an  unequal  race.  Lux- 
uriant bananas  flank  the  rly.  and  beneath  their  graceful  fronds 
appear  the  red  berries  of  ripening  coffee.  Through  gaps  in  the 
hills  one  gets  fine  vistas  of  extensive  cane-fields.  The  mts.  up 
which  we  are  climbing  show  belting  forests  of  pine  on  their 
verdant  sides.  The  scenery  is  charming.  The  languor  induced 
by  the  humidity  of  the  coastal  region  has  vanished  at  the 
touch,  and  the  tonic  effect,  of  the  bracing  air  of  the  highlands. 
Tunnels  are  almost  as  numerous  as  snow-sheds  on  the  Union 
Pacific  Rly.  On  this  stretch  of  the  line  we  ascend  from  an 


4S6  Route  53. 


CORDOBA 


elevation  of  1,510  ft.  to  2,710  ft.  within  20  miles.  106  K. 
Cordoba,  see  below.  Fora  continuation  of  the  journey  see  p.  488. 


53.  Cordoba  and  Environs. 

The  station  is  about  1 M.  from  the  centre  of  the  town,  which  clusters 
around  the  Plaza  Principal.  Tram-cars  of  the  Ferrocarril  Urbano  de 
Cordoba  meet  trains  and  run  at  intervals  of  about  every  hour  during  the 
day;  fare,  6 C.-20  c.  for  the  servicio  nocturne,  after  9 p.  m.  Cabs  are  not 
always  to  be  had.  On  the  return  trip  the  trams  pass  the  Mex.  station  and 
proceed  beyond  (£  M.)  to  that  of  the  Ferrocarril  Vera  Cruz  al  Istmo 
(p.  544).  Baggage-checks  should  be  delivered  to  the  hotel  manager,  who 
will  have  luggage  brought  up  on  the  tram-cars. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  Hotel  Dihgencia , — Gran  Hotel  Zevallos, — 
Hotel  Imperial.  Rates  for  rooms  from  $2  up  per  day;  meals  a la  carta. 

Cabs,  Autos.  The  omnipresent  Ford  jitney  has  made  its  appearance  in 
Cordoba  tas  well  as  in  most  of  the  outlying  Mexican  towns)  and  it  is  s 
convenient  means  of  conveyance  for  those  who  dislike  the  street  cars.  The 
usual  rate  is  $2.50  per  hour,  and  $1.50  for  a half  hour,  or  less.  Special  rates 
can  always  be  made  with  the  driver  for  sight-seeing  ■‘ours  in  the  country 
roundabout.  The  city  rates  do  not  apply  to  country  trips,  and  there  will  be 
a controversy  at  the  end  if  an  understanding  is  not  reached  with  the  chofer 
before  starting  out.  The  outskirts  of  Orizaba  are  more  attractive  than 
those  of  Cordoba,  and  it  is  a better  stop-off  place  on  the  route  between 
Vera  Cruz  and  Mexico  City. 

Banks  Marenco  e Hijos  are  correspondents  of  the  Mexico  City  Banking 
Corporation,  S.  A.  Money  can  be  exchanged  and  travellers’  checks,  drafts, 
etc.,  cashed. 

A railway  (the  Ferrocarril  de  Cordoba  a Huatusco)  leads  hence 
to  Huatusco  (23  Kilom.,  1 train  daily  in  about  3 hrs.)  through  the  towns 
(uninteresting)  of  San  Juan , Tomatlan,  Chocaman , Monte  Blanco , La 
CapiUc  and  San  Antonio.  For  time  card  consult  the  Guia  Ojidal. 

At  Cordoba  and  orher  stations  beyond,  on  the  rly.,  excellent  mangoes, 
oranges,  citrons,  and  short,  fat  yellow  bananas  ( Dominicos ) of  great 
sweetness  are  offered  for  sale.  The  latter  are  very  perishable  and  they 
are  difficult  to  obtain  in  the  Mexico  City  markets,  where  they  are  prized. 
Segments  of  bamboo  about  six  inches  in  diameter,  about  ten  inches  long 
and  with  cunningly  contrived  slides,  filled  with  moistened  tube-roses. 
Japonica  or  sweet  Spanish-Jasmine,  are  also  sold  here;  the  usual  price 
is  a toston  (50  c.).  The  passing  of  trains  through  the  station  is  the  signal 
for  establishing  a sort  of  temporary  native  bazaar  where  eggs,  milk, 
fruit,  bread,  flowers,  cheese,  sweetmeats  and  whatnot  are  on  sale.  The 
peddlers,  many  of  whom  are  Indian  women,  seem  not  satisfied  with  what 
they  extract  from  the  passengers  at  one  station,  and  as  soon  as  the  train 
pulls  out  they  pack  their  traps,  and  by  some  short  and  direct  cut  up 
the  mountain  reach  higher  stations,  to  there  smilingly  await  the  train 
as  it  drags  wearily  in  after  some  long  and  arduous  detour.  The  crisp  mt. 
air  puts  a keen  spur  on  every  appetite,  and  the  man  who  regrets  his  re- 
fusal to  pay  the  price  asked  for  some  “goody”  at  a lower  station  has  a 
chance,  usually  to  his  unfeigned  surprise,  to  secure  the  article  at  his  own 
price,  perchance  lower:  for,  paradoxical  as  it  may  seem,  the  higher  the 
vender  the  lower  his  price. 

C6rdoba  (Arabic  = Karta-tuba  — important  city) , founded 
April  18,  161S,  by  order  of  the  Spanish  Viceroy  Don  Diego 
Fernandez  de  Cordoba ; pop.  7,000,  2,713  ft.  above  sea-level,  lies 
on  the  slope  of  a little  hill  called  Xitango , in  the  fertile  valley 
of  the  Rio  Seco,  198  M.  from  Mexico  City  and  is  one  of  the  most 
important  towns  in  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz.  The  Climate  is 
warm,  moist  and  a bit  feverish.  Rain  falls  frequently  during 


Amatlan. 


CORDOBA 


58.  Route.  487 


9 months  of  the  year;  the  three  remaining  months  (the  so- 
called  winter)  constitute  the  estacion  de  secas  (dry  season)  and 
they  are  the  best  for  visitors.  May  is  the  hottest,  and  Jan.  the 
coldest  month.  Light  fogs  are  not  uncommon : they  are  some- 
times of  a beautiful  azure  tint  and  they  idealize  the  splendid, 
snow-capped  Pico  de  Orizaba  (p.  496),  recalling  to  the  travel- 
ler’s mind  the  beautiful  cone  of  Fuji-no-Yama.  This  fine  mt.  is 
the  redeeming  feature  of  the  otherwise  nondescript  town. 

The  sanitary  arrangements  of  Cordoba  are  mediaeval.  The  town  is  in- 
nocent of  sewers,  the  water  is  hard  and  very  difficult  to  wash  in ; and  it 
should  not  be  taken  internally  unless  boiled.  (Excellent  beers  and  bottled 
waters  are  always  obtainable,  and  the  traveller  predisposed  to  malaria 
is  counselled  to  drink  them  rather  than  the  town  water.)  The  ice  is 
made  in  Orizaba , at  a brewery  with  a reputation  for  cleanliness.  Some  of 
the  houses,  erected  when  the  town  was  founded,  are  very  ancient  and 
time-stained.  Antique  Spanish-Moorish  windows  ( ventanas ) heavily 
barred  with  iron,  quaint  wooden  balconies,  massive  colonial  doors 
with  huge  iron  knockers  ( llamadores ) and  studded  with  broad-headed 
hand-wrought  copper  nails,  are  characteristic  features.  Most  of  the 
houses  are  low  and  are  roofed  with  red  tiles  ( tejas ) which  form  a pleasing 
contrast  to  the  luxuriant  green  of  the  tropical  vegetation.  These  friable 
tiles  require  frequent  replacing,  and  the  new  ones,  sprinkled  among 
the  old,  impart  a spotted  appearance  to  the  roofs.  The  latter  are  the 
favorite  promenades  of  splendid  peacocks  whose  strident  screams 
awaken  the  echoes.  Somnolent  zopilotes  constitute  the  street-cleaning 
department.  The  inhabitants  are  ostensibly  very  religious;  clanging 
church-bells  awaken  the  sleeper  at  five  a.  m.  and  for  a time  thereafter 
the  streets  are  filled  with  towns-people  going  to  early  mass.  The  place 
has  an  unkempt  appearance,  and  panniered  donkeys  amble  through 
the  streets  and  browse  upon  the  grass  which  grows  between  the  cobble- 
stones. Four  fine  palms  and  some  handsome  gardenias  are  the  chief 
features  of  the  dreary  plaza , which  is  flanked  on  one  side  by  a new 
municipal  building;  on  the  others  by  the  church  and  some  ancient 
portales.  Many  of  the  old  residents  assemble  here  and  take  the  rest- 
cure  throughout  the  drizzling  days.  To  the  sound  of  squawking  parrots 
they  sit  around  metal  tables  and  smoke  cigarettes,  criticise  the  doings 
of  the  metropolitanos  at  the  capital,  swap  discarded  political  ideas,  play 
dominos,  re-clothe  jokes  that  came  over  with  Cortes  and  sip  claret  diluted 
with  seltz-water  squirted  from  blue  glass  syphons  encased  in  wire  net- 
work. The  general  atmosphere  of  this  region  is  hazy  and  lazy.  Facing  the 
plaza  is  a house  where  the  unfortunate  Archduke  Maximilian  is  said  to 
have  slept,  en  route  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Mexico  City.  Another  house  is 
pointed  out  as  the  spot  where  the  treaty  that  recognized  the  Independence 
of  Mexico  was  signed  (Aug.  24, 1821)  by  General  Agustin  de  Iturbide  and 
the  last  Spanish  representative  under  vice-regal  rule,  Don  Juan  de 
O'Donoju.  The  Church  of  San  Antonio  was  founded  in  1688  by  the  Fran- 
ciscans: the  present  building  (uninteresting)  was  completed  in  1725. 
The  Church  and  Convento  de  San  Hipolito  (also  uninteresting)  were 
founded  in  1793.  Cordoba  recalls  to  mind  the  querulous  traveller  who 
complained  that  “there  was  nothing  to  see  and  they  would  n’t  let  him 
see  it!  ” 

The  Environs  of  Cordoba  are  very  tropical.  Vast  fields  of  sugar- 
cane, pineapple  plantations  and  banana  farms,  stretch  away  to  the 
horizon.  Fine  Manila  mangoes  (introduced  by  Juan  Antonio  Gomez  in 
1770)  grow  in  the  vicinity.  The  tobacco  and  coffee  which  thrive  here 
are  ranked  high.  A day  can  be  spent  to  advantage  visiting  one  of  the 
haciendas  in  the  neighborhood.  In  the  immediate  suburbs  is  a half-wild 
garden  with  a number  of  pretty  walks,  some  tinkling  fountains  and 
many  specimens  of  tropical  plants.  The  Indian  Village  of  Amatlan  lies 
about  3 M.  to  the  S.-E.  and  is  easily  reached  on  foot.  Horseback  is 
preferable  if  the  traveller  makes  it  alone.  The  tribe  (very  friendly)  pos- 
sesses its  own  laws,  customs  and  language.  Though  living  in  proximity 


4S8  Route  52.  METLAC  BARRANCA 


to  Spanish-speaking  people  the  Indians  are  so  jealous  of  their  own  lan- 
guage and  traditions  that  they  usually  refuse  to  understand  or  to  speak 
Castilian.  The  attractive  women  (frequently  seen  in  Cordoba ) wear  loose 
flowing  robes  of  white  cotton  ornamented  with  narrow,  colored  braid 
and  silver  trinkets:  they  make  excellent  needle-work.  The  Indians  are 
stanch  Catholics  and  the  town  possesses  a small  parish  church. 

Cordoba , see  p.  486.  114  K.  Fortin , so  called  because  of  a 
little  fortress  hard  by.  The  tall  monument  in  the  cemetery  to 
the  1.  of  the  station  marks  the  grave  of  Don  Felix  Diaz , a 
Mexican  patriot.  The  real  attractions  of  the  rly.  line  begin  to 
appear;  the  scenery  becomes  grandly  beautiful,  and  we  soon 
reach  one  of  the  most  weird  and  fearsome  passes  on  the  line. 
The  train  moves  slowly,  turns  sharply  to  the  r.  and  cautiously 
glides  down  one  side  of  the  deep  Metlac  Barranca.  On  the  other 
side  of  a yawning  ravine,  in  the  depths  of  which  a tropical 
river  churns  its  way,  is  another  line  of  mils,  on  a terrace  cut 
from  the  side  of  a precipice,  and  at  an  angle  similar  to  that  of 
a toboggan  slide.  Five  tunnels  interrupt  this  line  before  it 
reaches  the  higher  level  and  turns  the  flank  of  the  hill.  The 
train  glides  very  slowly  and  gingerly  across  the  Metlac  bridge, 
a very  skilful  piece  of  engineering  work  350  ft.  long,  built  upon 
a curve  of  325  ft.  radius,  on  a 3%  grade,  92  ft.  above  the  river. 
Eight  cast  and  wrought  iron  pillars  on  masonry  bases  uphold 
it.  When  a long  train  is  winding  across  it,  the  horseshoe  effect 
is  very  striking.  The  pass  is  dreaded  by  trainmen,  who  consider 
it  the  most  dangerous  on  the  line.  Flagmen  are  stationed  here 
permanent^.  As  the  train  creeps  up  the  flank  of  the  opposite 
mt.  the  barranca  widens  and  exposes  its  tropical  charms  to  the 
delighted  eye.  Magnificent  forest  trees,  covered  with  yellow, 
purple  and  pink  blossoms;  palms  of  many  kinds,  and  patches 
of  luxuriant  tropical  jungle,  bright  with  scores  of  different 
brilliant  flowers  or  creepers  which  throw  themselves  from  one 
tree-top  to  the  other  as  they  tower  above  the  tangled  under- 
growth, are  seen,  while  anon  a glimpse  of  a fair  valley  is  had: 
a vale  snuggled  between  sheltering  hills,  bathed  in  sunshine 
and  rank  with  the  vegetation  of  the  lower  tropics.  Dainty 
little  waterfalls  are  revealed  up  the  glens  as  the  train  climbs 
by,  while  others  rush  under  the  culverts  to  leap  into  mid-air 
and  lose  themselves  in  clouds  of  mist  and  spray,  shot  with  all 
the  colors  of  the  rainbow.  The  general  plan  of  building  the 
Mexican  rly.  has  been  to  wind  around  the  mts.  rather  than  to 
drive  long  tunnels  through  them:  this  plan  is  well  exemplified 
by  the  many  short  tunnels  through  which  the  train  passes  after 
leaving  Metlac  bridge.  They  are  so  numerous  that  at  times 
the  locomotive  will  be  in  one  and  the  last  car  of  the  train  in 
another.  From  the  last  of  these  tunnels  the  train  emerges 
upon  an  extensive  table-land,  whence  the  eye  looks  upon 
broad  valleys,  billowy  mt.  ranges,  and  many  straw-thatched 
native  huts  tucked  away  in  some  fair  glen  or  vale.  The  magni- 


ORIZABA 


Cofee  Zone. 


54.  Route.  489 


ficent  cone  of  Orizaba  is  again  visible,  a white  and  serene 
apotheosis  against  the  bosom  of  the  blue  sky. 

122  K.  Sumidero,  in  the  heart  of  the  Coffee  Zone,  which 
extends  from  Paso  del  Macho  to  Orizaba.  Some  of  the  best 
Mexican  coffee  (cafe)  comes  from  this  district,  or  zone,  which 
is  about  85  M.  long  by  20  M.  wide. 

The  growing  demand  in  the  U.  S.  A.  for  the  coffee  from  this 
region  has  increased  land  values  and  the  acreage  devoted  to 
coffee  culture.  The  cafe  caracolillo  (pea-bean  coffee)  grown 
here  is  much  liked. 

Of  the  genus  Coffea  (the  qahuah  of  the  Arabs),  there  are,  it  is  said, 
two  species:  Caffea  Arabica  and  C.  Occidentalis.  The  chance  discovery 
of  its  value  as  a beverage  is  attributed  to  an  Arab  in  Yemen,  about  the 
end  of  the  13th  cent.  It  was  introduced  into  France  by  Thevenot , the 
traveller,  and  into  England,  in  1652,  by  a Gieek  called  Pasqua.  Until 
1690  the  only  source  of  coffee  supply  was  Arabia;  in  that  year  it  was 
taken  to  Java  by  traders  who  plied  between  Java  and  the  Arabian  Gulf. 
One  of  the  first  plants  grown  in  that  Island  was  sent  to  Holland,  where, 
as  a rare  plant,  it  was  placed  in  the  botanical  garden  at  Amsterdam.  The 
New  World  perhaps  obtained  its  supply  from  a single  plant,  which  a 
French  naval  officer  carried  to  Martinique,  in  the  West  Indies,  in  1720. 
The  species  have  been  subdivided,  and  16  kinds  are  now  produced  in 
Brazil  alone  — which  supplies  more  than  half  the  coffee  of  the  world. 
It  is  grown  extensively  in  Peru,  British  Guiana,  Mexico  and  other  Ameri- 
can countries.  It  produces  the  best  beans  at  an  altitude  of  from  1.000 
to  3,000  ft.,  albeit  it  grows  and  flaunts  its  handsome  white  flowers  al- 
most at  the  water’s  edge.  It  grows  but  does  not  thrive  at  5,000  ft. 
Warmth,  moisture,  shade  and  the  proper  altitude  are  indispensable 
requisites  in  its  satisfactory  cultivation.  Coffee  is  usually  planted  be- 
tween rows  of  banana  trees  sufficient  in  number  to  shade  the  young  plants; 
these  are  quick  growers  and  they  produce  marketable  coffee  in  two  or 
three  years.  If  allowed,  the  bushes  would  attain  a height  of  20  ft.  or  more; 
they  are  usually  nipped  in  at  about  6 ft.  from  the  ground  so  that  the  plant 
may  attain  to  greater  strength  and  present  a surface  from  which  the 
berries  may  be  picked  easily  by  one  standing  on  the  ground.  The  leaves 
j are  broad  and  of  a glossy  green,  sometimes  concealing  the  berries  which 
cluster  along  the  slender  twigs  and  branches.  The  blossoms  are  very 
pretty  and  are  similar  in  color  and  texture  to  a small  tube-rose.  The 
berry  is  shaped  like  a small  bean,  and  two  of  these  are  found  side  by  side, 
adhering  bv  their  flat  surfaces,  enclosed  in  a pulp  covered  by  an  outer 
skin;  forming  a double  berry  the  size  of  a cherry.  When  the  green  ber- 
ries turn  to  a bright  red  they  are  gathered,  dried  in  the  sun  on  level  floors 
of  stone  or  cement,  separated,  hulled  and  stored.  The  range  of  the  coffee 
plant  extends  only  between  the  isothermals  of  25°  north  and  30°  south 
of  the  equator,  and  it  cannot  be  successfully  grown  in  places  where  the 
temperature  is  ever  below  50°  Fahr.  “Difference  in  locality  of  pro- 
duction has,”  says  an  authority,  “little  to  do  with  the  flavor  of  the  cof- 
fee, notwithstanding  a general  belief  to  the  contrary.” 

134  K.  Orizaba,  see  below.  For  a continuation  of  the  jour- 
ney, see  p.  493. 

54.  Orizaba  and  Environs. 

The  Railway  Station  is  about  4 M.  S.-W  of  the  Plaza,  near  which  are 
the  chief  hotels.  Tram-cars  meet  all  trains  and  pass  the  principal  hotels. 

Autos  SI. 50  for  £ hr.  or  less. 

Hotels  (Comp.  p.  xlvii).  Grand  Hotel  de  France.  — Hotel  Diligencias; 
rates  in  both  for  rooms,  from  $2  up  per  day.  Meals  a la  carta.  Special 
arrangements  can  be  made  for  board  and  lodging  on  the  American  plan. 

Banks.  Banco  Nacional  de  Mexico;  Juan  C.  Gutierrez  (English  spoken), 
correspondents  of  the  Mex.  City  Banking  Corporation,  S.  A. 

Orizaba  (4,028  ft.),  a quaint  and  unusually  attractive 


490  Route  04. 


ORIZABA 


provincial  city  (pop.  45,000)  in  the  rich  and  productive  state 
of  Vera  Cruz,  one  of  the  most  important  manufacturing 
centres  in  the  Republic,  and  much  frequented  as  a winter 
resort,  is  picturesquely  situated  in  a green,  well-watered 
valley  where  eternal  springtime  reigns,  midway  between  the 
tropics  and  the  cool  tableland  of  the  higher  reaches.  It  oc- 
cupies the  site  of  an  Indian  village  which  is  said  to  have  existed 
centuries  before  the  Spaniards  came.  History  records  that 
the  Aztecs  conquered  it  in  1547,  and  that  they  named  it 
Ahuaializapan  (joyful  waters)  because  of  the  many  streams 
which  burst  from  the  verdure -covered  acclivities  of  the  mt. 
sides  and  dash  away  down  the  vale  to  lower  levels.  One  of 
these  gurgling  streams,  the  Orizaba,  plunges  through  a rocky 
ravine  in  the  city,  and  adds  a picturesque  charm  to  it.  Its 
power  was  utilized  by  the  utilitarian  Spaniards  as  early  as 
1553,  when  they  established  a flour-mill  — perchance  the  first 
one  erected  in  America.  The  town  received  its  charter  in  1774. 

Orizaba  is  a felicitous  blend  of  the  useful  and  the  orna- 
mental; it  combines  much  beauty  with  a great  deal  of  utility, 
for  it  is  one  of  the  greatest  manufacturing  centres  in  the 
Republic.  The  largest  cotton  mills  in  Mexico,  the  Compahia 
Industrial  de  Orizaba , S.  A.,  are  here,  and  they  employ  6,009 
workers,  operate  100,000  spindles  and  4,000  weaving  machines, 
and  utilize,  as  a motive  force,  9,000  horse-power  generated 
from  their  own  hj^droelectric  plant  near  by.  — The  second 
largest  company,  the  Cia.  Industrial  Veracruzana,  S . A ., 
employs  more  than  2,000  workers.  — The  most  extensive 
brewery  in  the  Republic,  The  Cerveceria  Moctezuma,  is  located 
here,  and  from  it  there  go  daily  many  carloads  of  light  beer  to 
all  sections  of  the  country.  — Here  also  are  the  huge  La 
Violeta  Cigar  Factories,  of  Gustavo  Mayer  y Cia.,  whence 
come  the  celebrated  La  Violeta,  La  Sin  Rival,  and  La  Rica 
Hoja  brands  of  cigars  — known  favorably  wherever  smokers 
foregather.  — This  company,  with  the  famous  Balsa  Her - 
manos,  at  Vera  Cruz  City,  supplies  practically  all  the  high 
grade  cigars  smoked  in  Mexico.  The  choicest  tobacco  in  the 
Republic  grows  in  the  favored  climate  and  soil  of  the  State, 
and  much  of  it  is  equal,  if  not  superior  to,  the  world-known 
Vuelta  Abajo  product  of  Cuba.  — The  big  Santa  Gertrudis 
Jute  M ill  at  Orizaba  is  operated  with  English  capital. 

The  somewhat  unique  position  of  Orizaba — halfway  between  the 
tierra  fria  and  the  tierra  caliente  — endows  it  with  many  products  of  the 
tropic  and  temperate  zones,  and  with  a climate  at  once  delightfully  pure 
and  mild.  It  has  long  been  the  favorite  resort  of  fever-stricken  persons 
from  the  lowlands,  and  of  the  frost-nipped  residents  of  the  higher  al- 
titudes. Many  wealthy  Yucatan  planters  spend  their  summers  here.  The 
town  was  the  chosen  retreat  of  Maximilian  and  the  Empress  Carlota 
during  their  meteoric  career  in  Mexico.  The  rainfall  is  heavy,  and  the 
phenomenally  developed  flora  is  beautiful.  The  red-tiled  roofs  of  the 
houses  blend  harmoniously  with  the  all-prevalent  green  foliage,  and  the 
wide  gardens  which  surround  some  of  the  native  homes  impart  the  as- 
pect of  a country  village.  The  snow-capped  Pico  de  Orizaba  peers  above 


ORIZABA  54.  Route.  491 

the  hills  N.  of  the  town,  and  from  the  zig-zag  paths  which  terrace  them 
superb  views  are  to  be  had. 

The  Plaza  Principal  (called  also  Parques  Castillo  e Hidalgo),  with  a 
band-stand,  parterres  of  flowers,  palms,  cedars,  roses,  azaleas  and  cacti, 
is  an  attractive  spot.  The  imposing  marble  statue  (made  in  Genoa  and 
cost  13,000  pesos ) of  the  Defensores  de  la  P atria  was  erected  in  1903. 
The  inscription  (in  Sp.)  on  the  S.  side  says  the  monument  is  dedicated 
“to  the  sons  of  the  state  of  Veracruz,  who  defended  the  country  and 
Orizaba  City  in  1847-48”  (refers  to  the  war  with  the  United  States). 
The  inscription  on  the  base  says  the  shaft  was  erected  with  the  aid  of  the 
Central  Government  and  the  cantones  of  the  state.  On  the  N.  side  is  the 
Latin  inscription:  Victrix  cavsa  Deis  Placvit  tied  Victa  Catoni.  Lucano. 
At  the  W.  side  of  the  plaza  is  a marble  shaft  surmounted  by  a bronzed, 
life-size  figure  (unveiled  Sept:  16,  1901,  and  cost  89,000)  of  the  Cura  de 
Dolores  in  the  attitude  of  voicing  the  famous  grito  (comp.  p.  106).  Below 
is  the  date  1810.  On  the  S.  side  is  “ P atria  e Independencia ,”  and  below, 
“ Orizaba  to  Miguel  Hidalgo  y Costilla .”  An  ecclesiastical  monument  to 
the  memory  of  the  Cura  D.  Nicolas  de  Llano  stands  at  the  W.  corner  of 
the  church  atrium.  The  long  inscription  (in  Sp.)  refers  to  his  exemplary 
life  during  his  stay  in  Orizaba  (1833-1849).  Flanking  the  plaza  on  the 
S.  side  is  the  Tedlro  Llave.  At  the  N.  is  the  Palacio  Municipal , an  iron 
structure  (cost  8100,000)  of  Belgian  origin.  The  Salon  de  Cabildos  and 
the  chief  local  offices  of  the  Government  are  in  this  building.  The  bronze 
bust  of  Columbus,  in  the  smail  garden,  formerly  stood  in  the  Alameda, 
or  Prado  Colon. 

The  Parochial  Church  (La  Parroquia),  begun  about  1690,  com- 
pleted in  1720  and  dedicated  to  San  Miguel,  flanks  the  plaza  on  the  N. 
and  is  the  most  interesting  temple  in  the  city.  It  has  an  unusual  number 
of  domes,  one  of  them  tile-covered,  after  the  Mudejar  style.  The  un- 
gainly square  tower  (completed  in  1732)  serves  as  a belfry,  a clock-tower 
(the  clock  is  of  French  make  and  dates  from  1867)  and  a meteorological 
observatory.  The  huge  bulk  of  the  edifice  presents  many  odd  archi- 
tectural features,  most  of  them  dating  from  the  early  colonial  period. 
At  one  side  of  the  unusually  large  atrium,  at  the  base  of  the  tower,  are  4 
tablets,  the  chief  one  referring  to  the  geographical  situation  of  the  city. 
The  frowning  facade  and  the  great,  nail-studded  doors  impart  a sinister 
aspect  to  the  building.  It  has  5 entrances,  3 on  the  W.  and  2 facing  the 
S.  — the  main  entrance  and  one  leading  into  the  sacristy.  Let  into  the 
wall  on  the  r.  of  the  former  is  a marble  tablet  with  a coat-of-arms  and 
the  inscription:  “A  Dios  Optimo  y Maximo  en  accion  de  gracias  al  termi- 
nar  el  Siglo  XIX  de  la  redencion  del  humano  linaje;  el  Pueblo  Orizabeho  ” 
(to  the  great  and  omnipotent  God  in  thanks  for  the  end  of  the  19th  cent, 
of  the  redemption  of  the  human  race.  The  people  of  Orizaba).  A quaint 
campanario  and  four  squat  towers  are  visible  above  the  S.  entrance. 
The  bizarre  decorations  (the  main  altar  was  redecorated  in  1907)  of  the 
interior  recalls  some  of  the  pagan  temples  of  the  Orient.  There  are  a 
number  of  interesting  mural  paintings  by  the  local  painter  Barranco. 
Prior  to  1834  this  ch.  was  noted  for  its  many  beautiful  altars,  which  have 
now  disappeared.  A relic  of  the  old  days  is  the  splendid  vestuario  or 
chest  of  drawers,  inlaid  with  bone  and  ivory,  in  the  sacristia 4 In  this  room 
is  an  unusually  good  mural  painting,  The  Last  Supper , with  the  inscription 
“ Uno  de  yosotros  me  ha  de  entregar  " — one  of  you  will  betray  me.  On 
the  opposite  wall  is  a Cristo  washing  the  feet  of  a poor  man.  Both  pic- 
tures bear  the  date  1873  and  are  the  work  of  Gabriel  Barranco.  Several 
of  the  chapels  contain  paintings  by  the  same  artist,  and  by  his  father. 

Churches  of  minor  interest  are  Santa  Maria  de  los  Ciervos , Quinta 
Calle  de  la  Santa  Escuela  — Nuestra  Seiiora  del  Carmen,  facing  the 


1 Travellers  interested  in  this  species  of  inlaid  work  will  sometimes 
find  excellent  specimens  in  Mexico.  The  genuine  pieces  were  brought 
from  Spain  soon  after  the  Conquest.  Later  the  work  was  copied,  with 
more  or  less  skill,  by  native  craftsmen  in  Puebla;  but  the  wood  em- 
ployed was  inferior,  and  bone  inlay  took  the  place  of  ivory.  Chests  of 
drawers  and  secretaires  that  would  grace  a palace  are  sometimes  the 
reward  of  diligent  search  through  the  antique  shops  of  Mexico  City. 


492  Route  54. 


ORIZABA 


Parque  Alberto  Lopez  — San  Juan  de  Dios,  flanking  the  plaza  of  the 
same  name  — Nuestra  Senora  de  los  Dolores,  Calle  de  la  Libertad  — San 
Jose  de  Gracia,  Ave.  Jose  Maria  Morelos,  and  El  Calvario,  in  the  4th 
C.  Benito  Juarez.  — The  Statue  to  Benito  Pablo  Juarez,  in  the  Calle  Real, 
was  erected  in  1906  to  commemorate  the  centenary  of  the  patriot’s  birth. 
— The  inscription  on  the  house  number  17  in  the  Ave.  de  la  Libertad 
refers  to  the  capture  of  the  town  by  Morelos  on  Oct.  29,  1812.  That  on 
the  house  No.  6 in  the  3a  Calle  de  San  Miguel  refers  to  the  visit  of  the 
Generallsimo  D.  Agustin  de  Iturbide  in  1821.  The  Alameda,  or  Prado 
Colon,  at  the  base  of  the  Cerro  del  Borrego , served  as  a corral  for  the 
horses  of  the  troops  during  the  French  Intervention.  The  white  marble 
monument  (of  European  origin)  which  stands  here  to  the  memory  of 
General  D.  Ignacio  de  la  Llave  (1818-1863)  was  unveiled  in  1898.  The 
inscription  refers  to  his  services  to  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz  Llave , which  is 
named  in  his  honor.  He  was  born  at  Orizaba,  in  the  house  (commemora- 
tive tablet)  No.  30  in  the  2d  Calle  de  San  Rafael. 

The  gifted  writer,  Frederic  R.  Guernsey,  says  of  Orizaba:  “If  you 
are  nervous  and  need  to  get  the  nerve  strain  out,  try  Orizaba.  Its  climate 
is  very  restful,  and,  as  you  can  be  lodged  well  and  be  sure  of  good  meals, 
there  is  bound  to  be  a gain  in  health  and  strength.  . . . The  worst  case 
of  brain  fag  will  yield  to  a stay  in  a place  where  the  scenery  is  delightful, 
where  one  may  drive  out  to  coffee  plantations  and  orange  groves,  and 
where  the  air  has  a soothing  quality  of  which  I speak  by  experience.  A 
word  to  intending  tourists  next  autumn  and  winter.  Put  Orizaba  in  vour 
note-book  and  plan  to  stay  at  least  a w7eek.  Orizaba  has  a fama  of  being 
a wet  place.  This  charming  and  wnnderfullv  picturesque  little  city  is 
sometimes  called  ‘the  w7atering-pot  of  Mexico.-’  Yet  this  is  a cool  place. 
It  has  been  right  along,  at  noon,  up  in  the  City  of  Mexico,  90  to  93°  Fahr. 
in  the  sun  (not  shade),  and  here  in  the  sun  it  has  ranged  about  78°,  and 
nowhere  a bit  uncomfortable.  In  this  city  one  can  be  very  comfortable 
all  the  year  round,  and  the  eye  may  feast  on  scenery  which  is  ruggedly 
and  grandly  mountainous. 

“ There  is  a great  and  wholly  admirable  market  wThere  one  sees  a variety 
of  fruit,  flowers,  and  vegetables,  not  to  speak  of  grains  and  meat,  etc., 
that  is  astonishing.  Fruits  of  the  hot  country,  luscious,  mouth-melting 
pineapples,  bananas  galore,  mangoes,  golden  and  enticing,  watermelons 
in  heaps,  cocoanuts  in  huge  piles,  the  warm  red  of  tomatoes  in  vast 
pyramids,  oranges  superbly  yellow7,  limes,  mameyes  browrn  outside  and 
red  within,  and  excellent  for  the  stomach;  in  a word,  all  the  fruits  one 
can  want  or  imagine,  and  flowers:  Gardenias  in  great  bunches,  25  to  37 
cents;  lilies  for  the  church,  dirt  cheap.  Roses,  of  every  hue  legitimate  in 
a rose. 

“It  is  interesting  to  note  the  Yucatan  people  summering  here.  Their 
Spanish  has  that  queer  Maya  click  in  it,  and  some  of  them  have  a good 
portion  of  Maya  blood;  and  show7  it  in  their  broad  faces,  in  their  noses 
and  ears.  That  Maya  race  w7as  once  tremendously  strong;  built  temples 
and  cities  and  flourished  in  one  of  the  hottest  regions  of  the  earth.  I have 
friends  that,  by  courtesy,  pass  for  white  people,  who  have  the  blood  of 
the  Mayas,  and  they  always  impress  me  in  a mystical  way,  seeming  to  be 
reincarnated  Maya  priests,  and  it  would  never  shock  me  to  learn  that  in 
private,  and  with  truly  religious  motives,  they  offered  human  sacrifices 
to  the  gods!  One  friend  has  all  the  learning  of  our  times,  such  as  it  is,  and 
would  be  accounted  cultured  in  Cambridge,  Massachusetts,  circles. 

“Not  a few7  men  of  great  intellect  are  from  the  hot  country,  and  some 
of  the  most  forceful  men  in  this  modern  Mexico.  And  it  is  curious  to 
note  among  scholarly  men  of  Indian  blood  from  the  true  tropics  their 
perfect  command  of  Spanish  and  all  its  elegancies  of  the  subjunctive 
which  gives  so  many  delicate  shades  of  meaning.  The  Indian  in  Mexico 
is  often  an  erudite,  scholarly,  and  highly  cultivated  man. 

“ It  would  be  a pretty  dull  w7orld  w7ith  color  left  out  of  the  human  race, 
and  everybody  white  and  etiolated  as  in  cities.  When  you  bleach  the 
human  plant  you  take  lots  of  agreeable  things  out  of  it.  Down  on  the 
Gulf  Coast  there  are  many  negroes  and  many  people  w-ith  African  blood, 
which  is  a good  blood  to  temper  a man,  for  a hot  climate. 

“Some  proud  and  wealthy  families  have  strains  of  negro  and  Indian 


ORIZABA 


52.  Route.  493 


blood,  and  it  is  well  to  reflect  that  in  negro  blood  is  something  that  makes 
for  joyousness  and  an  appreciation  of  the  good  things  of  life.  An  educated 
man  with  ‘ black  ’ blood  is  a bon  vivant , a raconteur , and  has  much  poetry. 
Allah  in  his  infinite  wisdom  put  men  of  many  colors  on  our  planet  and 
pronounced  the  color  scheme  good. 

“Here,  in  Orizaba , one  sees  the  whole  human  color  plan,  and  the  good 
Indian  blood,  while  a little  tending  to  melancholy,  gives  faithfulness, 
persistence,  and  proud  taciturnity.  Compared  to  these  people  of  varying 
hue.  how  tame  the  white  crowds  of  far  northern  cities!  Indian  maidens 
in  these  regions  are  well  modelled,  real  women,  and  not  clients  of  nerve 
specialists.  They  are  built  to  have  children  and  to  nurse  them  at  the 
maternal  fount. 

“Our  white  race  is  immensely  proud  of  itself,  ‘well  paid  with  itself,’ 
as  the  Spanish  puts  it,  and  has  got  an  idea,  surely  insane,  that  it  is  about 
all  there  is  worth  preserving  on  earth.  Which  is  preposterous.  In  ages 
to  come,  in  these  lands  of  the  South,  in  climates  where  snow  does  not 
fall,  where  Nature  is  always  active,  the  magic  of  the  sun  will  keep  people 
shades  darker  than  in  the  far  North,  where  skies  are  gray  and  northern 
blasts  howl  across  the  wintry  landscapes. 

“There  will  be  a new  race  of  tropical  Americans  down  in  these  regions, 
men  who  will  have  their  summer  homes  among  the  hills  of  Orizaba  and 
Jalapa,  rearing  their  children  in  a temperate  climate,  and  making  of  the 
hill  country  what  the  Anglo-Indians  do  of  their  northern  and  moun- 
tainous India,  a summer  resort.” 

Excursions.  Many  pleasant  walks  and  rides  in  the  environs.  Tram- 
cars,  which  leave  from  the  centre  of  the  town,  will  take  the  traveller  to  In- 
genio,  Nogales  (with  a large  marble  quarry  and  works),  Santa  Rosa,  Santa 
Gertrudis,  El  Barrio  Nuevo,  etc. ; all  pretty  spots.  The  Cascades  of  Y ute  and 
Tuxpango,  as  well  as  that  of  Rincon  Grande,  are  very  picturesque. 

An  attractive  excursion  is  to  the  Power-House  at  Tuxpango,  which  sup- 
plies electric  current  to  the  cities  of  Vera  Cruz  and  Puebla,  and  which  is 
to  be  utilized  to  electrify  the  railway  between  Orizaba  and  Esperanza.  Per- 
mission should  be  obtained  from  the  company  to  visit  the  Fall,  which  is 
reached  by  means  of  a (private  property)  cable-way  which  lets  the  ' isitor 
down,  at  a sharp  angle,  into  the  Tuxpango  Valley,  several  hundred  feet 
below  Orizaba. 

The  attractive  sugar-  and  coffee-  hacienda  of  Jalapilla  (2  M.)  is  one 
of  the  show  places;  it  was  the  favorite  country  residence  of  Maxmilian  and 
the  Empress  Carlota. 

Hightop  boots  or  Puttee  Leggins  are  advisible  as  a protection  against 
skinburrowing  insects,  when  cross-country  walks  or  mt.  climbs  are  under- 
taken. If  one’s  time  is  limited  it  is  advisable  to  employ  as  a guide  one 
of  the  many  small  boys  to  be  found  in  or  about  the  hotels. 

El  Cerro  del  Borrego  (Hill  of  the  Lamb),  which  the  train  crosses  just 
before  it  reaches  Orizaba,  was  the  scene  of  a stirring  engagement  (June  13 
and  14,  1862)  between  the  French  Zouaves  and  the  Mexican  troops. 
El  Cerro  de  Escamela,  E.  of  the  town,  contains  quarries  of  gray  mar- 
ble. A card  of  admission  may  be  secured  (no  charge)  from  the  hotel 
manager. 

Orizaba , see  p.  489.  The  rly.  line  parallels  the  Rio  Blanco  and 
crosses  three  of  its  tributaries.  We  traverse  fertile  fields  and 
wooded  foothills.  138  K.  Rio  Blanco . The  cotton-mills  here 
are  among  the  largest  in  Mexico;  the  scenery  recalls  certain 
stretches  of  the  Austrian  Tyrol.  140  K.  Nogales.  The  train 
enters  a gloomy  barranca,  El  Infiernillo  — little  hell  — and 
crosses  dizzy  acclivities,  passing  through  tunnels  and  over 
streams  which  have  worn  deep  chasms  in  the  trap-rock.  A 
black  cross  on  an  eminence  hard  by  marks  the  last  resting- 
place  of  some  unfortunate,  and  points  the  fate  of  whosoever 
slips  from  the  winding  track  above.  We  pass  a number  of 
pretty  waterfalls  and  cascades.  The  train  climbs  steadily 


494  Route  52. 


MALTRATA 


upward,  and,  coincidently,  the  scenery  changes.  Fine  views 
in  retrospect.  Conifers  and  mountain  scrub-oaks  take  the 
place  of  banana  and  coffee  groves.  The  grades  here  are  so 
heavy  that  the  trains  are  often  run  in  two  sections.  From  the 
crests  of  the  hills  we  obtain  fine  views  of  the  Santa  Rosa  Mills 
in  the  valley.  We  penetrate  a winding  tunnel  and  emerge  into 
a rich  little  valley,  La  Joy  a (the  jewel) ; near  the  centre,  more 
than  a mile  above  the  spires  of  Vera  Cruz,  is  the  station  of 

152  K.  Maltrata  (5,544  ft.).  The  vale  is  encircled  by  tall 
hills,  rising  grandly  above  which  is  the  splendid  cone  of  Orizaba . 
Peach-trees  are  plentiful  and  the  train  is  met  at  the  station  by 
a score  or  more  Indian  women  with  peaches,  pomegranates, 
avocado-pears,  tamales,  tortillas,  and  confits  for  sale.  Goitre, 
which  is  common  in  other  mountainous  regions  of  the  world, 
is  noticeable  among  these  women,  who  are  nevertheless  sturdy 
and  attractive.  Before  leaving  Maltrata  the  engineer  descends 
from  his  cab  and  wdth  wrench  and  oiler  in  hand  carefully  in- 
spects the  rods,  nuts  and  bolts  of  the  locomotive;  then  we 
whisk  out  of  the  station  in  a whirl  of  energy,  as  if  determined 
to  compass  the  mountains  ahead  by  irresistible  might.  A 
beautiful  waterfall  plunges  into  a gorge  on  the  1.  The  train 
zig-zags  up  the  hills,  approaching  them  over  great  curves  and 
winning  them  by  daring  runs  across  terraces  cut  from  their 
sides.  In  retrospect  we  can  trace  the  road  below  as  it  doubles 
and  twists  and  loops  its  way  downward  among  the  valleys; 
at  times  as  many  as  six  lines  of  rails  are  visible,  like  silver 
ribbons  in  the  depths,  with  many  aerial,  spider-like  bridges, 
which  from  here  seem  to  dip  like  steel  flumes.  Far  away,  at 
the  bottommost  point  of  the  valley,  are  Santa  Rosa,  Rio 
Blanco  and  Nogales.  Between  this  point  and  the  edge  of  the 
highland  the  train  runs  north,  east,  south  and  west,  as  it 
climbs  upward.  The  air  grows  perceptibly  cooler. 

166  K.  Alta  Luz.  Hard  by  is  a water-tank,  perched  like  a 
Japanese  temple  on  the  crest  of  a ridge  which  we  have  reached 
over  a gradient  of  nearly  5%  through  rock-cuts  hung  with 
ferns,  dripping  writh  water  and  redolent  of  wild-flowers.  The 
water  springs  from  a hidden  source  tapped  while  severing  the 
back  of  a giant  buttress  upholding  the  mt.  side.  The  environ- 
ing hills  are  clothed  in  pines  and  oaks,  and  giant  cacti  cling 
like  huge  green  rosettes  to  the  mt.  wall.  The  scene  is  more  like 
New  Hampshire  than  tropical  Mexico.  Here  the  train  (which 
on  rainy  days  often  passes  through  low-lying  clouds)  stands 
2,919  ft.  higher  than  the  topmost  point  of  Mt.  Washington, 
and  the  panorama  is  magnificent.  We  approach  one  of  the 
most  dangerous  and  ticklish  points  on  the  line:  Winner's 
Bridge  (90  ft.  long)  spans  a yawning  chasm  from  the  ridge  of 
which  the  scenery  is  awe-inspiring  and  of  surpassing  grandeur. 
In  a perfectly  flat  valley  diapered  in  different  shades  of  green, 
3,000  ft.  below  and  10  M.  distant  by  the  rails,  are  the  red-tiled 


ESPERANZA  52.  Route.  495 

roofs,  the  Liliputian  church,  and  the  garden  fields  of  Maltrata 
village. 

At  this  great  distance  and  elevation  the  houses  resemble  match-boxes 
and  the  cows  look  no  larger  than  dogs.  The  town  is  exposed  to  our  gaze 
like  a relief  map,  and  in  the  centre  stands  a white-walled,  red-domed 
church  which  bears  an  astonishing  likeness  to  one  of  the  toy  churches  of 
childhood  — the  plaster-of-Paris  affair  with  red-stained  mica  windows 
and  the  illuminating  candle  within.  The  tremendous  vista  delights  the 
eye,  and  the  knowledge  of  altitude  and  distance  charms  the  senses.  Far 
to  the  left  the  watchful,  ever-present  volcano  rears  its  hoary  head  above 
serried  ranks  of  sombre  pines.  Between  this  point  and  the  valleys  miles 
below,  the  vegetation  changes  with  each  gradation  of  climate,  and  on  the 
most  distant,  sun-lit  lowlands  the  coquettish  palms  flash  faint,  helio- 
, graphic  signals  — like  ardent  love-calls  — over  miles  of  flower-flecked 
I valley-land,  to  the  cool,  brooding  cypresses  5,000  ft.  above  them. 

, The  giddy  ride  along  perpendicular  cliffs  and  over  majestic  amphi- 
j theatres  spanned  by  daring  bridges  is  a memorable  one.  At  every  turn 
fresh  beauties  reveal  themselves;  hill  is  piled  upon  hill,  vales  merge 
and  lose  themselves  in  far-spreading  valleys.  As  the  train  creeps  across 
a spider-like  bridge  flung  above  some  stupendous  chasm,  the  sight 
drops  a straight  2,000  ft.  before  it  rests  on  anything  on  which  a blade 
of  grass  or  a tropical  creeper  can  lay  hold.  Roaring  waterfalls  burst 
from  hidden  gorges  or  clefts  in  the  mountains,  and  tear  away  like  mad 
things  in  their  search  for  lower  levels.  Finally,  when  the  cars  creep  and 
skirl  along  one  of  the  Maltrata  cumbres,  and  edge  around  a sheer  preci- 
pice whence  the  dilated  eye  dominates  a thousand  square  miles  of 
mountain  ridge  and  tropical  valley,  the  scenery  attains  its  greatest 
achievement : the  experience  is  akin  to  that  the  traveller  feels  as  he  rounds 
Sensation  Rock  on  the  Kandy  (Island  of  Ceylon)  Railway,  or  when  he 
stands  on  a commanding  spur  of  the  Matterhorn  and  gazes  with  speech- 
i less  admiration  at  the  wonderful  panorama  spread  out  before  him.  We 
cross  a fear-inspiring  bridge  on  a curve  smaller  than  that  of  the  Metlac 
bridge,  then,  after  diving  through  a long  tunnel  we  come  to 

173  K.  Boca  del  Monte , on  the  eastern  edge  of  the  great  Mex- 
ican Plateau,  7,849  ft.  above  Vera  Cruz  and  the  sea.  Since 
leaving  that  port  we  have  climbed  1^  M.  above  the  fortress 
of  S.  J.  de  Ulua , and  we  have  touched  three  zones  — the 
tierra  caliente,  tierra  templada  and  tierra  fria.  Could  we  see  the 
city  at  this  distance  straight  below,  its  houses  would  appear 
mere  pin-points  on  a white  ground ; its  cocoa-palms  a green 
blur  in  the  landscape,  and  the  ships  in  the  bay  but  toy  boats 
afloat  in  a pool.  We  should,  it  would  seem,  be  in  cloudland, 
but  the  arching  sky  high  above  is  a beautiful  cobalt  blue.  The 
air  is  so  clear  that  details  of  the  landscape  stand  out  with 
startling  distinctness.  A range  of  huge  mts.  cuts  the  western 
sky-line,  and  behind  the  ramparts  are  Popocatepetl , lztacci- 
huatl,  Malinche,  Ajusco,  and  the  giants  which  guard  the  Valley 
of  Mexico. 

179  K.  Esperanza.  Rly.  restaurant.  Meals  $2.  At  this  sta- 
tion are  huge  ware-rooms  for  storing  dried  coffee,  which  would 
spoil  in  the  moist  lowlands  where  it  is  grown. 

A branch  railway  ( F . C.  Mex.  del  Sur  — Ramal  de  Esperanza)  leads 
hence  (one  train  daily  in  about  4 hrs.)  to  Tehuacan  (p.  526)  through 
El  Salado,  Cariada  Morelos , Ramal  del  Molino,  Llano  Grande , Rancho  de 
Cabras,  El  Carmen  and  Miahuatldn.  Consult  the  Guia  Oficial. 


496  Route  52 . PICO  DE  ORIZABA 


A fine  view  of  the  Fico  de  Orizaba  is  had  from  Esperanza. 

From  the  time  the  traveller  leaves  Vera  Cruz  for  the  capital  this  om- 
nipresent, hoary-headed  sentinel  appears  to  watch  him  just  as  the 
swift  runners  of  Montezuma  spied  on  Cortes  and  his  men  and  reported 
their  advance,  league  by  league,  to  the  anxious  monarch  in  Andhuac. 
When  the  morning  sun  tips  the  almost  perfect  cone  with  a fugitive  glory 
of  golden  light,  or  when  twilight  casts  about  it  its  mantle  of  crimson 
and  violet  shadows,  the  imagination  easily  pictures  it  as  an  Aztec  signal 
fire  flashing  a warning  to  Malintzi,  thence  onward  to  Popocatepetl  and 
the  “ White  Woman/'  the  guardian  spirits  of  Tenochtiildn.  The  volcano 
shoots  up  ostensibly  from  the  very  plain  on  which  Esperanza  stands,  as 
if  to  advise  that  it,  too,  has  climbed  the  ramparts  of  the  hills  and  now 
girds  itself  for  the  swift  race  to  the  ancient  Aztec  stronghold.  “Orizaba 
has,”  says  a witty  writer,  “what  mortals  rarely  possess  united:  a warm 
heart,  with  a clear,  cold  head!” 

Though  not  so  accessible  as  Popocatepetl,  Orizaba , the  monarch  of 
Mex.  mountains,  has  been  several  times  ascended.  The  first  essay  was 
made  by  a party  of  American  officers  (of  Scott's  army)  in  1848;  the  second 
by  a Frenchman,  Alexander  Doignon,  in  1851.  When  Doignon  reached 
the  summit  he  found  planted  there  the  tattered,  wind-whipped  remnant 
of  an  American  flag,  with  the  date  1848  cut  into  the  staff.  Hitherto  the 
mountain  had  been  regarded  as  wholly  unscalable,  and  it  was  not  until 
the  daring  Frenchman  made  this  second  attempt  (which  almost  cost  him 
his  life)  that  the  natives  credited  the  story  and  accorded  the  honor  of 
the  achievement  to  the  modest  Americans.  An  iron  cross  now  surmounts 
it.  The  Mt.  is  shaped  like  a great  ant-hill:  climbers  experience  but  little 
difficulty,  as  there  are  no  avalanches.  The  glissade  from  the  summit 
down  to  snow-line  is  very  exhilarating.  The  starting-point  for  the  top 
is  from  the  little  village  of  San  Andres  Chalchicomula  (birth-place  of  the 
poet  Manuel  M.  Flores ),  whence  several  parties  start  during  the  year. 
One  or  two  dry  and  commodious  caves,  on  the  trail,  serve  as  fine  spots  in 
which  to  camp.  The  natives  at  the  base  get  ice  from  the  higher  reaches 
of  the  mountain.  The  management  of  the  Mexican  Rly.  (at  Buena  Vista 
station,  Mex.  City)  will  aid  climbers  to  plan  the  ascent. 

According  to  Aztec  Mythology,  Quetzalcoatl , God  of  the  Air  (p.  304), 
died  at  Coatzacoalcos  (p.  550)  after  his  departure  from  Cholula.  and  his 
body  was  brought  to  the  peak  of  Orizaba,  where  it  was  consumed  by  a 
divine  fire.  His  royal  spirit  took  flight  heaven-ward  in  the  guise  of  a 
peacock,  since  when  the  Mt.  has  borne  the  name  (Indian)  of  Citlaltepetl 
— mountain  of  the  star.  The  ancient  Aztecs  believed  his  spirit  would 
return  to  Mexico,  and  to  the  present-day  Aztecs  the  Mt.  stands  in  almost 
the  same  religious  light  that  Fuji-no-Y  ama  stands  to  the  Japanese. 
Humboldt  referred  to  it  as  one  of  the  finest  peaks  of  the  Mexican 
Andes.  It  is  18,225  ft.  high,  and  it  was  considered  the  culminating  point 
of  North  America,  until  Mt.  McKinley  (in  Alaska)  was  found  to  measure 
over  22,000  ft. 

203  K.  San  Andres.  The  run  hence  to  the  capital  is  across 
the  Central  Plateau,  which  is  practically  level  hereabout. 
During  and  after  the  rainy  season  many  wuld-flowers  enliven 
the  landscape.  During  the  dry  season  the  running  train  is  apt 
to  detach  clouds  of  fine  dust  which  is  very  persistent  and 
penetrating. 

A railway  line  (Fcrrocarril  de  Chalchicomula)  runs  hence  (2  trains 
dailvin  1 hr.)  to  Chalchicomula,  where  travellers  may  plan  for  the  ascent 
of  the  Pico  de  Orizaba. 

242  K.  San  M areas,  junction  of  the  Interoceanic  Rly.  (Rte. 
55),  in  a district  celebrated  for  apples  with  a taste  like  sweet 
crab-apples.  A tompiate  (small  round  basket)  of  these  may  be 


APIZACO 


52.  Route.  497 


purchased  in  the  season  for  25  c.  The  town  is  in  the  state  of 
Tlaxcala,  whose  people  were  at  war  with  Montezuma  when 
the  Spaniards  reached  Mexican  shores,  and  who  tested  the 
prowess  of  the  Europeans  in  a fierce  battle.  They  were  de- 
feated by  the  white  strangers,  with  whom  they  made  an  alli- 
ance, and  whose  stanch  allies  they  became  — saving  them 
more  than  once  from  annihilation.  The  isolated  peak  of 
Malinche  rises  close  at  hand  (left),  and  affords  a fine  view.  Ma- 
linche,  or  Malintzi[  (sorceress),  14,740  ft.,  is  often  covered 
with  snow:  the  natives  secure  this,  mix  in  lemon  and  orange 
juice,  and  offer  it  for  sale  at  the  station.  Much  Indian  corn 
and  wheat  are  cultivated  hereabout,  and  the  spiky  aloe  and 
nopal  cacti  are  used  as  hedge  fences.  259  K.  Huamantla , noted 
for  its  many  churches  (uninteresting)  and  many  beggars,  most 
j of  them  pulque- soaked  and  blear-eyed.  The  poor  town  lies  on 
the  slope  of  a hill  to  the  1.  of  the  station.  It  is  celebrated  in 
American  war  annals  as  the  place  where  Captain  S.  H . Walker , 
one  of  the  most  dashing  and  chivalrous  figures  in  the  war  with 
Mexico,  was  killed. 

285  K.  Apizaco:  junction  of  the  branch  line  to  (p.  508) 
Puebla  (47  K.,  4 trains  daily  in  1J  hr.),  trains  for  which  leave 
from  a siding  in  the  same  station.  There  is  a rly.  refreshment 
room  in  the  station.  Venders  of  peaches,  pulque  (p.  lxxxii), 

| parakeets,  a great  variety  of  canes,  onyx  souvenirs  and  what- 
i not  occupy  the  station  platform.  The  onyx  (p.  xcvi)  pieces, 
from  the  quarries  near  Puebla,  are  clumsy  imitations  of  better 
work  obtainable  either  at  Puebla  or  Mex.  City.  Some  of  the 
large  canes  (often  sold  to  the  credulous  as  coffee-wood)  are 
{made  of  cedar  ( fresno ),  and  are  crudely  carved  with  the  na- 
I tional  emblem ; with  bulls,  serpents,  liberty-caps  and  cacti.  The 
! small,  flexible  canes  are  made  of  a native  wood  called  clasistle; 

| prices  (bargaining  necessary)  range  from  5 c.  to  one  peso.  Bet- 
ter specimens  are  also  to  be  obtained  at  the  antique  shops  of 
the  capital.  The  rolls  of  biscuits  (crackers)  or  galletas,  which 
are  put  up  in  bamboo  splits  and  sold  (25  c.  the  package)  at  this 
station,  are  baked  in  the  local  panaderias.  295  K.  Mufioz. 

300  K.  Guadalupe  (not  to  be  confounded  with  Guadalupe- 
Hidalgo,  with  its  celebrated  shrine,  on  the  outskirts  of  Mex. 
City).  At  the  Ocotlan  siding  we  reach  the  highest  point  on  the 
line,  8,333  ft.  above  Vera  Cruz  and  986  ft.  higher  than  Mexico 
City.  From  this  point  the  plain  slopes  gradually  to  the  Valley 
of  Mexico.  314  K.  Soltepec.  331  K.  Apam , in  the  heart  of  the 
great  maguey  region  known  as  the  “ pulque  district.”  The 
Plains  of  Apam  are  as  celebrated  for  pulque  as  the  Valle  Na- 
tional is  for  tobacco  and  Yucatan  for  henequen.  Here  the 
pulque-pvodnoing  aloe  ( Agave  Americana ),  commonly  known 

1 The  correct  name  of  Malinche  is  Matlacueyatl.  Malinche  was  a 
nick-name  given  by  the  Aztecs  to  Doha  Marina , mistress  of  and  in- 


408  Route  5S. 


IROLO  — OTUMBA 


in  tin*  U.  S.  A.  as  the  Century  Plant,  attains  its  greatest  per- 
frrtion.  Broad  fields  stretch  away  on  every  side,  unbounded 
1 . v walls  and  crossed  by  symmetrical  rows  of  the  huge,  spiky 
plants  which  resemble  exaggerated  artichokes.  Numerous 
t !>■,,  mla  buildings  with  battlemented,  fort-like  w^alls  and  bar- 
: c i lined  towersaot  t he  landscape.  Many  tlachiqueros  (p.lxxxiii) 
c ui  U-  seen  at  work,  while  donkeys  with  barrels  swung  pan- 
• be  over  their  backs,  and  men  with  pig-skin  receptacles 
c arry  the  nauseous  liquid  to  the  fermenting  rooms.  The  un- 
i n ; i 'led  pulque  sold  at  the  station  (and  elsewhere)  is  apt  to  be 
adulterated  and  should  be  avoided. 

47  K.  Irolo.  A branch  line  ( ramal ) of  the  F err ocarril  Hidalgo 
y \ • sU  runs  hence  to  (28  kilom. ) Pachuca  (p.  422),  1 train 

daily  in  about  2 hrs.,  passing  through  the  towns  of  Amaninalco , 
San  Isidro,  Tlanalopa , Santa  lues,  Venta  de  Cruz , Tanque  and 
Sun  A gust  in.  The  line  of  the  F.  C.  Interoceanico  crosses  the 
Mexican  Rly.  at  this  point.  356  Iv.  Ometusco.  A branch  fine 
of  the  Mexican  Rly.  runs  hence  to  (46  kilom.)  Pachuca,  2 
trains  daily  in  4 hrs.,  touching  at  Venta  de  Cruz,  Zempoalla , 
Tepn.  Sandoval  and  San  Jose.  Considerable  pulque  is  pro- 
due-  1 in  the  environs  of  Ometusco.  363  K.  LaPalma.  369  K. 
Otumba , the  Otompan  of  the  Aztecs;  a poor  town  2 M.  to  the  r. 

< »f  the  station.  The  plain  of  Otumba  was  the  scene  of  one  of  the 
honest  1 -attics  fought  between  Spaniards  and  Indians  in  the 
Now  World.  CorU's  and  his  army  had  been  ignominiouslv 

< j'-oted  from  the  Aztec  city,  and  they  wTere  on  the  march  to 
Vera  Cruz  to  recuperate  their  shattered  forces.  For  a descrip- 
t i -r-  < »f  tin-  battle  (in  which  it  is  said  20,000  Indians  w^ere  slain) 
( ‘insult  Prescott’s  Conquest  of  Mexico,  vol.  ii,  pp.  379  et  seq. 

370  K.  //  ueyapan , in  the  midst  of  a flat  plain  dotted  with 
vi-lo  corn-fields,  in  which  are  skeleton  bamboo  lookouts  that 
ri  e 20  or  more  feet  above  the  ground.  Indian  boys  occupy 
tb-e  fragile  towers,  swayed  by  every  wdnd,  and  they  are  sup- 
P • 1 to  maintain  a sharp  watch  for  crowTsand  thieves:  where 
a line  of  trees  flank  the  milpas  the  youngsters  may  be  seen 
perch< • 1 in  the  highest  branches,  as  much  at  home  50  ft.  or 
n ■ -re  a 1 ><  >ve  the  ground  as  would  be  any  member  of  the  Simian 
tril  " The  long  line  of  electric  wires  supported  by  steel  towers 
visible  on  the  r.  (one  of  the  longest  electrical  transmission 
hu*  - in  the  Repub.)  brings  electrical  energy  into  the  city  from 
Ci-'  Fall  of  Necaxa  (p.  517).  3S0  Iv.  San  Juan  Teotihuacan. 
i : - groat  Pyramids  (see  p.  425)  are  visible  to  the  right.  391  Iv. 
7/ /”  rpan.  The  shallow,  brackish  waters  of  Lake  Texcoco 
on  the  L,  and  long  strips  of  alkali-imp reg- 
nato.  i oil  show  how  the  lacustrine  bed  has  shrunk.  The  alkali, 
a notable  feature  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  renders  the  soil  arid 
and  retards  vegetable  growth.  401  Iv.  San  Cristobal.  We  pass 
a numl>er  of  hills,  like  ancient  ramparts,  and  soon  the  hill  and 
church  spires  of  Guadalupe  (p.  392)  are  seen  on  the  far  right. 


MEXICO  CITY  TO  JALAPA,  ETC.  55.  Rte.  499 


During  the  two  centuries  which  succeeded  the  Conquest  the  journey 
from  Guadalupe  (the  outpost  of  the  capital)  to  V era  Cruz , was  made  on 
horse,  or  mule-back,  or  on  foot,  and  was  a formidable  undertaking. 
At  the  beginning  of  the  19th  cent,  litters  (literal)  were  employed  be- 
tween Vera  Cruz  and  Jalapa  (p.  503),  and  a line  of  coaches  ran  thence 
\o  the  capital.  In  1833  the  first  stage-line  was  established  between  Mex- 
ico City  and  Jalapa , and  it  was  extended  later  to  the  coast.  The  journey 
was  attended  by  many  dangers.  The  unhappy  travellers  were  held  up, 
robbed  and  sometimes  murdered.  Bandidos  (bandits)  infested  almost 
every  mile  of  the  road.  Three  bone-breaking  days  were  required  for 
the  trip;  the  fare  of  $50  was  collected  in  advance. 

420  K.  Guadalupe ; the  station  for  the  sacred  shrine,  de- 
scribed at  p.  392.  Bits  of  ruined  causeways,  churches  doing 
duty  as  rly.  store-rooms,  neglected  plazas  and  lines  of  multi- 
colored, squat  and  dreary-looking  houses  advertise  the  tawdry 
suburbs  of  the  capital.  The  train  soon  enters  the  clean  and 
commodious  Buena  Vista  Station.  Hand-bags  are  tumbled 
through  the  windows  to  waiting  cargadores  (comp.  p.  liifr). 

Taxicabs  and  their  drivers  ( choferes ; see  p.  238)  are  to  be 
found  in  the  station  yard.  Hotel  runners  await  the  traveller 
on  the  sidewalk.  A small  rly.  restaurant  serves  passengers  in 
the  station.  Several  other  restaurants  are  to  be  found  a half 
square  to  the  r.,  on  the  Calle  de  las  Estaciones.  The  adminis- 
tration offices  of  the  rly.  are  in  the  station  building.  424  K. 
Mexico  City,  see  p.  233. 

55.  From  Mexico  City  to  Texcoco,  San  Lorenzo, 
Oriental,  Jalapa  and  Vera  Cruz. 

INTEROCEAN IC  RAILWAY  OF  MEXICO. 

474  K.  One  through  train  daily,  in  13  hrs.  (fare,  see  p.  xxxi)  from  the 
Estacion  de  San  Lctzaro  (PI.  J,  4).  Rly.  restaurant.  The  best  of  the  mt. 
scenery  is  between  La  Cima  and  Vera  Cruz.  To  see  this  by  daylight, 
travellers  usually  proceed  to  Puebla  (p.  508)  and  board  an  early  morning 
train  from  there  (338  K.  1 train  daily  in  9 hrs.,  fare,  p.  xxxi).  Jalapa  (p. 
503)  is  one  of  the  quaintest  and  most  charming  of  the  Mexican  towns  and  is 
worth  visiting.  Trains  for  Puebla  (several  daily)  leave  from  the  same 
station.  Between  Mex.  City  and  Vera  Cruz  the  line  crosses  the  states  of 
Mexico,  Tlaxcala,  Puebla , and  Vera  C uz. 

Mexico  City,  see  p.  233.  The  train  passes  out  through  the 
E.  suburbs,  parallels  the  line  of  the  Mexican  Rly.  (p.  484)  and 
the  old  Tezcucan  causeway,  and  traverses  a swampy  district 
which  is  partly  submerged  during  the  rainy  season.  Lake 
Texcoco  is  seen  glistening  in  the  distance,  and  a number  of 
churches,  some  of  them  old  and  dismantled,  dot  the  landscape. 
The  first  town  of  importance  is  39  K.  Texcoco  (7,391  ft.),  the 
one-time  rich  and  populous  suburb  of  the  Aztec  metropolis,  and 
the  seat  of  the  Tezcucan  kings.  (The  rly.  usually  runs  special 
Sunday  excursion  trains  to  this  point ; leaving  the  Estacion  de 
San  Ldzaro  at  9 a.  m.  and  returning  at  5 p.  m.  Inclusive  fare  50  c.) 
Texcoco  is  now  interesting  chiefly  for  its  historical  associations. 


500  Rte.  55.  MEXICO  CITY  TO  JALAPA,  ETC.  T excoco. 

F<  *r  many  years  preceding  the  Conquest  it  was  the  literary 
centre  of  Andhuac,  and  it  almost  equalled  the  Aztec  city  cf 
T>  • '»  hlitldn  in  social  and  political  importance.  Here  the  eru- 
dite Xetzabualcoyotl  (p.  clvi),  who  was  called  the  Tezcucan 
Solomon,  lived  and  wrote,  and  here  the  invading  Spaniards 
launched  their  brigantines  (built  in  Tlaxcala  and  brought 
hither  in  sections)  against  the  island  stronghold  of  the  Aztecs. 
At  that  time  the  lake  of  T excoco  stretched  to  the  distant  hill 
of  ( 'h apuliepec  (p.  379).  Albeit  some  three  hundred  years  have 
pa-sed  since  the  Spaniards  devastated  the  region,  the  country 
immediately  adjacent  to  Texcoco  is  still  strewn  with  Indian 
relics,  and  the  descendants  of  the  early  Tezcucans  still  cultivate 
the  land  which  belonged  to  their  forefathers.  For  a descrip- 
tion of  life  in  Texcoco  during  its  halcyon  days  consult  Prescott’s 
('ofn/ucst  oj  Mexico , and  Bancroft’s  History  of  Mexico.  Tetz- 
cotzinco,  an  Indian  hamlet  3 M.  east  of  Texcoco , was  a busy 
mart  before  the  Spanish  invasion,  and  the  environing  country 
was  the  favorite  resort  of  N etzahualcoyotl.  The  ruins  of  several 
Indian  temples  and  graves  are  still  to  be  seen.  The  locality  is 
of  more  interest  to  archaeologists  than  to  the  casual  traveller. 

A curious  product  of  the  Lake  of  Texcoco  is  the  ajolote  (Aztec  axolotl , 
fr<»:  a nil  — water,  and  xolotl  — slave),  a larval  salamander  (or  tailed  Batra- 

< regarded  (by  the  Indians)  as  edible.  These  repulsive  looking  creatures 
a - from  6 to  10  inches  long  and  are  much  sought.  An  extraordinary 
t about  them  is  that  they  are  the  young  of  a species  of  terrestrial 

m ioi  . 1 mblyslo ma  tigrinum),  well  known  over  all  the  warmer  parts 
- I M.-\ic<.  In  Texcoco  they  never  transform  into  adults,  but  remain 
I " uient  1 y in  the  larval  condition,  yet  become  sexually  mature  when 
a’  months  old.  This  astonishing  fact  was  long  unknown.  It  was 

r • v erded  as  a distinct  animal,  and  named  Siredon  lichenoides.  The  dis- 

< , i > of  the  truth  was  made  accidentally  in  Paris  in  1865,  when  some 
11  j - ' in  the  aquarium  of  the  Jardin  des  Plantes  lost  their  gills  and  were 
' : “ dor  rued  into  perfect  amblystomas.  A lady,  studying  in  the  univer- 

• o!  1 n il  erg,  Frl.  Marie  Yon  Chauvin , then  undertook  a series  of 
« <:•  ful  experiments  with  other  captives,  and  worked  out  the  complete 
! i-'or\  of  metamorphosis,  which  is  dependent  (at  least  in  Europe)  on  a 
N‘  narrow  set  of  favorable  circumstances,  but  differs  in  no  essential 
c.  from  that  of  other  salamanders.  Why  the  changes  never  take 
phye  in  the  Mexican  lakes  is  unexplained. 

I h<-  , is,, loti  known  to  many  as  a water-lizard  — is  one  of  the  most 

r*  : -•  ’•!.!'•  reptile-  in  the  Republic.  It  has  bushy,  external  gills  similar 

permanently  characterize  the  mud-puppy;  the  color  is 
' : 1 “'ix'-. i bl.i-  k and  white;  the  tongue  is  broad  and  cartilaginous.  The 
i*  white  ami  resembles  that  of  an  eel;  it  is  said  to  be  savory  and 
u r‘ • me.  The  theories  in  regard  to  the  axolotl  (which  is  as  much  of  a 

M • x i . 1 1 1 _ - i ' • n t i > t s as  the  Platypus  Ornithorhynchus  is  to 
history  of  the  observations  above  men- 
Hans  Gadow  in  Amphibia  and  Reptiles  (1901), 
' l!,%  references  to  other  books  and  periodicals.  Consult  also  the 

■ 11  n Report  for  1877,  a paper  on  the  “Change  of  the  Mexican 

A \ ' 1 1 1 > 1 1 t * » an  Amblystoma  ’’  A preserved  specimen  of  the  axolotl  may 

1 ; in  th<-  Department  of  Natural  History  at  the  Museo  Nacional 

(p.  29K  . of  If  ex.  ( it  V. 

Of  equal  interest  is  that  peculiar  product,  the  marsh  fly  called  axayacatl 
’ • -\cana  , ‘ which  deposits  its  eggs  in  incredible  quantities 
1 !i  «r'  and  rushes,  and  which  are  eagerly  sought  out  and  made  into 

" 1 l'/ar  "f  Indians)  cakes  which  are  sold  in  the  markets.”  The 
I nk  l r.omas  Gage,  who  visited  Mexico  in  1625  says:  “The  Indians 


MEXICO  CITY  TO  JALAPA,  ETC.  55.  Rte.  501 


gathered  much  of  this  and  kept  it  in  heaps,  and  made  thereof  cakes,  like 
unto  brickbats  — and  they  did  eat  this  meal  with  as  good  a stomach  as 
we  eat  cheese;  yea,  and  they  hold  opinion  that  this  scum  or  fatness  of  the 
water  is  the  cause  that  such  great  number  of  fowl  cometh  to  the  lake 
which  in  the  winter  season  is  infinite.” 

‘‘These  cakes,  ‘like  unto  brickbats,’  are  sold  in  the  markets  to  this 
day,  and  the  black  heaps  of  the  ahuauhtli,  or  ‘water-wheat,’  may  be  fre- 
quently seen  dotting  the  mud  flats  about  the  lakes,  Texcoco  especially. 
The  insects  themselves  (which  are  about  the  size  of  a house-fly)  are 
pounded  into  a paste,  boiled  in  corn  husks  and  thus  sold.  The  eggs, 
resembling  fine  fish  roe,  are  compressed  into  a paste,  mixed  with  eggs 
of  fowls,  and  form  a staple  article  of  food  particularly  called  for  during 
Lent.  The  Indians  have  a-  systematic  method,  by  which  they  plant 
bundles  of  reeds  a few  feet  apart,  with  their  tops  sticking  out  of  the 
water.  The  insects  deposit  their  eggs  upon  these  reeds  in  such  quantities 
that  they  not  only  cover  them,  but  depend  in  clusters.  When  com- 
pletely covered,  these  bundles  are  removed  from  the  water,  shaken  over 
a sheet  and  replaced  for  a fresh  deposit.  Axayacatl  signifies  4 water-face,’ 
and  is  the  symbol  and  name  of  the  sixth  king  of  Mexico,  who  entered  upon 
his  reign  about  the  year  1464,  and  continued  in  power  thirteen  years.” 

The  rly.  line  traverses  a comparatively  level  country  with 
an  upward  slope  and  with  mts.  on  the  right.  On  the  1.  can  be 
seen  the  celebrated  Pyramids  of  San  Juan  Teotihuacan  (p.  425) . 
Vast  magueyales  dot  the  landscape,  and  trainloads  of  viscous 
pulque  (p.  lxxxii)  are  shipped  hence  each  morning  to  the  capital . 
The  line  of  steel  towers  visible  on  the  1.  support  wires  which 
convey  electrical  energy  from  Necaxa  (p.  517)  to  Mex.  City. 
70  K.  Otumba,  celebrated  for  a fierce  battle  between  the  In- 
dians and  the  invading  Spaniards.  At  72  K.  Soapayuca , the 
line  curves  broadly  to  the  1.  and  we  get  fine  vistas  across  the 
fertile  Plain  of  Otumba  ( Olompan ),  flecked  with  agave,  nopal 
cacti  and  tall  yuccas.  Our  line  flanks  that  of  the  Mex.  Rly. 
(p.  484)  to  90  K.  Irolo,  a rly.  junction. 

100  K.  San  Lorenzo , with  one  of  the  finest  pulque  haciendas 
in  the  state.  The  cluster  of  buildings  (at  the  r.)  are  mediaeval 
in  appearance,  and  the  chapel  is  quite  as  elaborate  as  one 
would  expect  to  find  in  a big  town.  The  land  is  highly  culti- 
vated, and  shows  evidence  of  having  supported  a large  popu- 
lation in  pre-Spanish  days.  The  tall  peaks  of  Popocatepetl  (p. 
463),  Iztaccihuatl  (p.  464)  and  Malintzi  (p.  497)  dominate  the 
surrounding  country.  The  train  enters  a hilly  region ; the  hill- 
sides are  nearly  all  covered  with  spiky  maguey  plants.  Hence 
to  Oriental  the  scenery  differs  in  no  wise  from  that  we  have 
passed.  The  land  is  extraordinarily  productive  and  it  seems  to 
know  no  rest,  one  crop  following  another  as  fast  as  it  can  be 
sown  and  garnered.  Pulque , corn,  wheat  and  barley  are  the 
staples. 

217  K.  Oriental  (7,693  ft.),  an  important  rly.  junction  with 
a refreshment  room.  Hotel  hard  by.  The  fruit  offered  for  sale 
at  the  station  is  poor.  Branch  rly.  lines  run  hence  to  80  K. 
Teziutlan,  to  89  K.  Puebla , and  to  other  towns  on  the  Inter- 
oceanic  system.  Consult  the  Guia  Oficial.  — 236  K.  Tepeya- 
liualco.  Near  by  are  haciendas  devoted  to  the  breeding  and 


502  Rte . 55.  MEXICO  CITY  TO  JALAP  A,  ETC.  Perote. 

raising  of  some  of  the  fiercest  fighting  bulls  known  to  the  Mex. 
bull-ring.  At  some  distance  from  the  station  are  the  remains 
(uninteresting)  of  an  ancient  Indian  city. 

265  K.  Perote  (7,S53  ft.  — about  400  ft.  higher  than  Mex. 

( ’ity) . To  the  r.  of  the  poor  station  is  the  frowning  old  fortress  I 
{fortaleza)  of  San  Carlos  de  Perote  (erected  1770-77),  the 
scene  of  several  sanguinary  battles  between  the  Mexicans  and 
the  French  at  the  time  of  the  French  Intervention.  Guadalupe 
Victoria,  the  first  president  of  independent  Mexico,  died  here 
in  1S43.  The  Amer.  soldiers  under  General  Worth  occupied  the 
fort  ress  in  1 847.  It  was  considerably  battered  during  the  Amer.  ] 
invasion,  and  prior  to  1908  it  was  in  a ruinous  state;  the  Mex. 
government  recently  converted  it  into  a military  prison.  It 
stands  about  \ M.  from  station,  in  the  centre  of  a broad  plain 
backed  by  the  towering  Cofre  de  Perote  (p.  504),  and  sentinelled  i 
by  the  ever-beautiful  Pico  de  Orizaba  (p.  496).  The  old  (and  j 
uninteresting)  town  of  Perote  clusters  around  three  churches 
about  1 M.  to  the  r.  of  the  station. — The  train  runs  across  a | 
level  plain  and  approaches  the  edge  of  the  great  plateau.  I 
From  281  K.La  Cima  (the  summit),  9,280  ft.  and  the  highest  I 
point  on  the  line,  amid  a straggling  forest  of  tall  pines,  we 
begin  to  go  downward  to  the  Gulf  coast,  and  we  descend  4800  i 
ft.  in  the  next  72  Kilom.  The  old  ch.  \ M.  below  the  station 
of  (286  K.)  Las  Vigas , is  a relic  of  early  Colonial  days. 

The  landscape  now  visible  on  the  1.  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  in  the  i 
liopub  The  huge  Cofre  de  Perote  hems  in  the  view  on  the  S..  but  on  the  | 
N.  and  K.  the  eye  travels  over  thousands  of  sq.  miles  of  beautiful  hill 
and  valley  land;  the  latter  green  with  the  rich  and  exuberant  plant-life 
of  the  >emi-tropics.  Far  to  the  E.  is  descried  the  productive  tierra 
cal\»  r tr,  laved  by  the  warm  waters  of  the  Gulf  and  bathed  in  sempiternal  | 

inshine  Picturesque  villages  (visible  for  many  miles  in  the  clear  air) 
dot  the  elevated  hillsides,  and  from  the  latter  leap  splendid  waterfalls 
that  rush  impetuously  to  lower  levels.  Groves  of  green  banana  plants  I 
enliv.-n  the  landscape,  which  is  clothed  in  beautiful  flowers.  Deliciously  i 
j-wret  oranges  at  one  cent  each,  and  huge  bunches  of  violets,  azaleas,  and 
rosi-s  :lt  the  same  price,  are  a few  of  the  products  offered  for  sale  at  the 
wav'ide  stations  The  train  compasses  the  descent  by  giant  loops;  at  . 
t im*  winding  round  and  round  the  towns  ( San  Salvador ) before  reaching  ! 
th<  ir  level  Jalapa  (see  next  page)  is  visible  25  or  more  kilometros  away, 
and  in  turn,  the  station  agent  at  Jalapa  can  see  the  train  1 hr.  before 
it  reaches  the  station. 

317  K.  San  Miguel , embowered  in  flowering  fruit  and  flam- 
boyant  trees:  the  country  for  miles  around  is  flecked  with  the 
latter,  and  at  certain  seasons  the  beautiful  scarlet,  scimitar- 
like  flowers  impart  to  the  region  the  aspect  of  a floral  paradise. 
Here  the  spiny  cactus  has  made  way  for  the  orchid  and  the 
wild  rose,  the  pines  are  replaced  by  palms  and  palmettos,  and 
in  the  sun-warmed  pockets  of  the  hills  with  a southern  exposure 
crow  exquisite  tree-ferns;  tall  and  extraordinarily  graceful. 
The  thin,  chilly,  whining  air  of  the  plateau  has  vanished,  and 
here  the  breath  of  summer  is  over  all.  We  cross  a deep,  vege- 
tation-choked chasm  and  enter  a short  tunnel.  The  views  as 


Arrival . 


JALAPA 


56.  Route . 503 


we  emerge  are  superb.  The  land  is  broken  into  wild  and  deep 
ravines  filled  with  riotous  tropical  vegetation.  324  K.  Dehesa . 
342  K.  Jalapa,  see  below.  For  a continuation  of  the  journey 
see  p.  507. 

56.  Jalapa . 

Arrival.  The  rly.  station  is  at  the  W.  edge  of  the  town,  at  the  foot 
of  a sharp  slope  which  leads  upward  to  the  plaza.  Tram-cars  ( Ferrocarril 
Urbano  de  Jalapa)  run  from  the  station  to  the  main  plaza , and  pass  the 
chief  hotels;  fare  10  c.  (double  at  night);  large  hand-bag  or  a suit-case, 
10  c.  Luggage  by  cargador  (comp.  p.  lii)  25  c.  for  a hand-bag  ; 50  c.  for 
a medium-size  trunk,  and  $1  for  a large  one.  Where  the  traveller  has 
several  trunks  he  can  economize  by  asking  the  hotel  manager  to  have 
the  luggage  brought  up  on  a platform  car  — plataforma.  The  centre 
of  the  town,  and  the  chief  hotels,  lie  within  10  min.  wajk  of  the  station. 
There  are  no  hotel  omnibuses.  Hotel  runners  usually  meet  incoming 
trains.  There  is  a refreshment  room  at  the  station;  meals  $1.  Jalapa 
time  is  ten  min.  faster  than  rly.  time. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  Gran  Hotel  Juarez , in  a commanding  posi- 
tion (fine  views)  facing  the  Parque  Juarez ; rooms  only,  from  75  c.  to  $2; 
with  3 meals,  $2  to  S3. 50.  A reduction  can  be  had  for  a stay  of  several 
days.  The  best  rooms  (splendid  views  of  valley  and  mts.)  are  in  the 
S.-W.  corner  of  the  hotel. — Gran  Hotel,  Calle  Lerdo,  3 (3  blocks  E.  of  the 
Cathedral);  rooms  only,  SI  to  $4;  meals  in  the  restaurant,  SI.  Fr.,  Eng., 
and  Sp.  spoken.  The  second-story  rooms  with  balconies  overlooking  the 
street  are  preferable.  — Hotel  Mexico,  Primera  Calle  de  Lucio,  1 (facing  the 
Parque  Lerdo  and  the  Palacio  de  Gobierno),  S2  to  S3  Am.  PI. 

Jalapa,  called  politically  Jalapa  Enriquez , in  honor  of  a 
popular  military  hero;  capital  of  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz , with 
a population  of  20,000,  derives  its  name  from  an  Indian  voc- 
able, xalli  — sand,  and  apan  — river.  The  word  is  often  spelled 
Xalapa  as  X and  J are  convertible  consonants  in  Spanish. 
(The  name  is  best  known  to  Europeans  as  Jalap  — Con- 
volvulus, Ipomoea  Jalapa  — a powerful  cathartic,  the  product 
of  a vine  of  the  morning-glory  species,  with  little  or  no  taste 
or  smell.  Since  the  discovery  of  other  medicines  the  exporta- 
tion of  Jalap  has  greatly  decreased.)  JaJapa  was  a thriving  In- 
dian village  when  Cortes  and  his  band  of  redoubtable  freeboot- 
ers marched  through  it  on  their  memorable  journey  from 
Cempoalla  to  the  Aztec  capital,  after  the  destruction  of  the 
Spanish  vessels  in  the  Bay  of  Vera  Cruz. 

“The  traveller  from  the  coast  hails  its  groves  with  delight,  as  announ- 
cing that  he  is  above  the  deadly  influence  of  the  vomito.  From  this  de- 
licious spot  the  Spaniards  enjoyed  one  of  the  grandest  prospects  in 
nature.  Before  them  was  the  steep  ascent  — much  steeper  after  this 
point  ; — which  they  were  to  climb.  On  the  r.  rose  the  Sierra  Madre , 
girt  with  its  dark  belt  of  pines,  and  its  long  lines  of  shadowy  hills  stretch- 
ing away  in  the  distance.  To  the  S.,  in  brilliant  contrast,  stood  the  mighty 
Orizaba , with  his  white  robes  of  snow  descending  far  down  his  sides, 
towering  in  solitary  grandeur,  the  giant  spectre  of  the  Andes.  Behind 
them,  they  beheld,  unrolled  at  their  feet,  the  magnificent  tierra  caliente 
with  its  gay  confusion  of  meadows,  streams  and  flowering  forests, 
sprinkled  over  with  shining  Indian  villages,  while  a faint  line  of  light  on 
the  edge  of  the  horizon  told  them  that  there  was  the  ocean,  beyond 
which  were  the  kindred  and  country  they  were  many  of  them  never  more 
to  see.”  (Prescott.) 

Giant  mountains  are  dominant  features  in  the  landscape.  The  por- 


504  Route  56.  COFRE  DE  PEROTE  History . 

phyritic  Cofre  de  Perote  (13,552  ft.),  so  called  because  the  topmost 
I v.  ait  resembles  a chest,  hems  in  the  valley  immediately  to  the  W.  of  the 
t.  ,u  :tini  it  is  one  of  the  most  impressive  mts.  of  the  Sierra  Madre  range. 
1 h.  Indian  name  for  it  is  Nauchampatepeil,  or  square  mt.,  and  it  is  be- 
lieve  reefs  { Boquillas  de  piedra ) in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  were 

formed  by  its  lava  flow  in  past  ages.  Orizaba  (18,225  ft.),  called  by  the 
Indians  < ttlaUeped,  is  seen  to  the  S.  of  Perote,  and  is  described  at  p.  496. 
In  t : . e intervening  valleys  is  a bewildering  mass  of  plants  which  flame 
and  : 1 om  perennially;  with  coffee,  zarzaparrilla  (Smilax  inedica),  vanilla 
\ plan  i folia),  and  a host  of  aromatic  shrubs  as  salient  features. 

The  view  of  tucse  mts.  and  valleys  was.  a favorite  one  with  the  late 
Frcdt  nel:  Church,  vs  hose  grand  painting,  The  Heartof  the  Andes,  is  known 
to  most  lovers  of  pictured  mountain  scenery. 

Join na  is  often  spoken  of  as  “the  flower-garden  of  Mexico”  and  it  is 
a popular  resort.  Natives  often  call  it  Jalapa  de  la  Feria  (of  the  fair)  be- 
c a ' : - 1 • nf  a great  annual  fair  which  was  formerly  held  here  to  dispose  of 
t ho  merchandise  brought  by  the  Spanish  “ Silver  Fleet  ” on  its  return  from 
C.t.iu.  The  town  is  celebrated  for  its  lovely  Sefioritas;  and  the  proverb, 
L ' Jcl  ipenas  son  halagiiehas  (the  Jalapa  girls  are  bewitching),  is  cur- 
nut  in  the  vernacular.  In  the  early  days  it  was  a diligencia  station  on 
the  highway  between  Fern  Cruz  and  Mexico  City,  and  then  the  environ- 
ing hills  sheltered  many  salleadores  (highwaymen)  who  lived  by  rob- 
bing t he  weekly  mail-coach.  Many  of  the  houses  are  time-stained  relics  of 
Yi<  * -regal  days  — a blend  of  Spanish-Moorish  architecture,  with  massive 
walls  and  prison-like  windows  flush  with  the  pavement  and  protected 
by  heavy  iron  bars.  The  overhanging  balconies  are  usually  laden  with 
bi  " uning  flowers.  The  time-stained  tiles,  with  which  most  of  the  quaint 
dwellings  are  roofed,  impart  an  air  of  great  antiquity  to  the  place.  Cer- 
tain of  the  sun-bathed  cloisters  are  a sustained  delight  to  the  artistic 
e>  In  the  early  morning  the  narrow,  cobble-paved  streets  are  thronged 
with  donkeys  bearing  panniers  of  fruits  and  flowers  to  the  local  mar- 
kns.  ( offee  is  one  of  the  great  staples  of  the  region,  and  Jalapa  is  the 
mart  to  which  much  of  it  is  brought. 

Soon  after  the  fall  of  Tenochtitldn  Spaniards  settled  in  Jcdapa  in  ap- 
prci  iable  numbers,  as  the  place  was  a sort  of  halfway  point  between  the 
( < .ot  and  the  capital,  with  a more  agreeable  climate  than  either  of  these 
place*;  It  stands  about  midway  up  the  long  ascent  from  the  coast  to 
the  edge  of  the  plateau,  and  the  vapors  from  the  ocean,  touching  the 
in’  . in  their  westerly  progress,  maintain  a rich  verdure  throughout  the 
>«  ar.  The  warmest  month  of  the  year  is  May,  the  coldest  March.  August 
* ~ th>  moM  uniform.  A disagreeable  feature  of  the  climate  is  a frequently 
rerurring  drizzle  ( Uovizna ) called  chipi-chipi,  which  sometimes  lasts  for 
a wi  ■ r When  the  moisture-laden  clouds  from  the  Gulf  impinge  on  the 
mt  t above  Jalapa,  they  condense  under  the  influence  of  the  cool  air 
..  i 1 pr*M-ipitate  upon  the  town.  “For  days  at  a stretch  the  sun  is  ob- 
seured.  and  the  Jalapeilo,  muffled  in  his  sarape,  smokes  his  cigarrillo 
and  mutters  .1  re  Maria  Purisima,  que  saiga  el  sol  — Holy  Mary,  let  the 
sun  come  out! ” 

In  1 791  the  settlement  received  the  title  of  villa  (town),  and  this  was 
• 1 1 1 • • r . i in  1S30)  to  ciudad  (city).  It  has  changed  but  little  since  the 
( in  it  ( aptain  and  his  myrmidons  first  saw  it.  Perched  on  the  slope  of 
the  > Macu  lit  pi  macuilli  — five,  and  tepetl  — mountain)  its  steep, 
er  ’k.  d and  tortuous  streets  recall  certain  twisty  thoroughfares  of 
N It  i-  quite  a.s  quaint  as  some  of  the  Italian  cities,  and  the  views 

fr  : ■ - Hue  of  the  vantage  points  in  the  town  are  among  the  most  beau- 
tiful and  beguiling  in  Mexico.  Across  miles  of  foot-hills,  ravines  and 
emerald  valleys  one  looks  out,  as  from  an  eagle’s  nest,  upon  a charm- 
ing landscape  which  embraces  the  torrid,  the  temperate  and  the  frigid 
zonn-  The  contrast  between  the  snow-clad  peaks  and  the  town,  em- 
bowered in  honeysuckle,  gardenias,  azaleas,  bougainvillaea,  camelias, 
in-  rid  a wealth  of  tropical  and  sub-tropical  flowers,  is  striking.  Several 
i.  flowing  rivulets  course  through  the  lower  reaches  of  the  town, 
mo  from  this  district  the  view  of  the  town  itself,  resting  somnolently 

1,1  f the  green  hills  and  decked  out  here  and  there  with  glistening 
church  towers  — which  stand  out  sharply  against  the  faultless  blue  sky 


Cathedral. 


JALAPA 


56.  Route.  505 


— is  very  attractive.  Even  the  modest  hut  of  the  lower  class  Jalapeno  is 
adorned  with  bngnt  flowers,  and  the  smiling  and  happy  faces  of  the  peo- 
ple are  in  strong  contrast  to  the  sodden  and  sullen  countenances  of  some 
of  the  proletariate  of  Mexico’s  capital. 

The  Cathedral,  which  flanks  the  Parque  Lerdo  on  the  W. 
and  faces  the  Palacio  de  Gohierno  (completed  in  1907  at  a cost 
of  $300,000),  was  formerly  the  ch.  of  Nuestra  Sefiora  de  la 
Concepcion , and  it  occupies  the  site  of  a primitive  ch.  erected 
in  the  16th.  cent.  The  present  structure  dates  from  1773;  it 
was  renovated  a half  century  later  and  was  consecrated  as  a 
Cathedral  in  1864.  The  new  Gothic  fagade  is  strangely  out  of 
place  on  the  otherwise  imposingly  massive  structure.  A caus- 
tic writer  has  referred  to  this  ch.  as  a “jaunty  horror  half-clad 
in  cheap  Gothic  clothes  which  don’t  fit.”  It  is  built  upon  a 
sharp  slope,  and  is  reached  by  a short  flight  of  18  narrow  steps. 
The  interior  is  more  like  a toboggan  slide  than  an  ordinary 
ch.  floor;  the  smooth  tiles  making  the  stretch  from  the  door 
to  the  altar  even  more  slippery  than  would  ordinarily  be  the 
case.  It  would  be  relatively  easy  for  one  to  backslide  in  this 
ch.  The  stained  glass  windows  are  of  Mex.  make.  The  two 
quaint  old  wheels  of  bells  that  assist  in  the  functions,  are  in- 
teresting relics  of  early  times.  The  Gothic  motif  of  the  fagade 
extends  to  the  interior,  and  is  carried  out  in  the  choir  stalls 
(of  carved  wood),  the  pointed  windows,  the  confessionals  and 
the  railing  of  the  presbiterio.  The  pictures  are  not  worth  look- 
ing at. 

There  are  a number  of  old  churches  (the  first  was  erected  in 
1550,  but  it  was  demolished  recently  to  make  room  for  the 
handsome  Parque  Juarez) , but  none  of  them  are  of  special 
interest  to  the  traveller.  The  old  Beaterio,  on  the  2nd  Calle 
de  Zaragoza  (at  the  rear  of  the  Palacio  de  Gobierno),  was 
erected  in  1750  for  conventual  purposes.  It  has  several  times 
been  renovated,  and  the  present  stained  glass  windows  and 
decorations  date  from  1909.  The  statue  in  the  Parque  Lerdo 
stands  to  the  memory  of  the  one-time  president  Sebastian 
Lerdo  de  Tejada.  A favorite  promenade  is  the  Parque  Hidalgo , 
called  also  Los  Berros,  at  the  E.  edge  of  the  town.  Follow  the 
Calle  Principal  to  the  suburbs,  then  turn  to  the  r.  and  proceed 
two  squares.  The  park  is  a half-wild  spot,  vocal  with  song 
birds  and  aflame  with  flowers.  The  music  kiosk  (commemora- 
tive tablet)  was  erected  in  1895,  during  the  second  guberna- 
torial term  of  Sehor  Don  Teodoro  Dehesa. 

Jalapa  contains  a number  of  small  factories  of  various  kinds. 
Cigars  are  made  here  in  quantities.  A number  of  these  factories 
cluster  about  the  Plaza  de  San  Jose,  in  the  N.-E.  quarter  of  the 
town.  The  cigars  offered  for  sale  on  the  streets  are  apt  to  be 
not  of  the  highest  quality,  and  are  sometimes  found  to  contain 
tripa  rejected  bv  the  best  factories.  The  venders  usually  sell 
them  in  plain  cedar  boxes,  unstamped,  to  impart  the  impression 


Route 


COATEPEC— XICO 


506 


• it  they  have  been  stolen  from  the  factories.  — When  the 
izu  1<  is  nonplussed  to  find  something  to  interest  the  visi- 
i r he  will  point  out  the  house  in  which  the  Mexican  President 
Lev  do  de  Tejada  was  bom;  the  one  occupied  by 
M ; .7  Bazaine  when  with  his  French  troops  he  retreated 
fr*  in  the  capital  and  left  Maximilian  to  his  fate;  and  the  spot 
where  the  American  soldiers  under  Scott  and  Worth  played 
baseball  in  1S47)  with  the  wooden  leg1  captured  (by  the 
Fourth  Illinois  regiment  ) from  General  Santa  Anna . 


Th<  ' rimmage  in  which  the  bombastic  and  irascible  Santa  Anna  lost 
hi  real  leg  smacks  of  the  burlesque.  The  ten  years’  war  for  Independence 
keyed  the  M exican?  to  such  a fighting  pitch  that  civil  wars  seemed  al- 
st  necessary  To  drain  their  martial  enthusiasm.  In  one  of  these  family 
: ~ jrreements  sacking  of  the  Parian  at  Mexico  City  in  1828)  certain 
Fren  h subjects  got  between  the  firing-lines,  and  France  preferred  a 
claim  of  Sty*), 000  against  the  Bustamante  government.  One  item  in  this 
cl. a:  . mi  i,  was  demanded  by  a French  pastry-cook  ( pastelero ) for 
p\><  alleged  to  have  been  stolen  and  eaten  by  the  revolucionarios.  This 
' ecame  knot  i sively  as  the  re.clama.cion  de  los  pc.sfeles  — the 
pa  -cl  urn.  The  French  ultimatum  of  March  21,  1838,  was  followed  (in 

• 1 • ■ y a French  squadron  under  Ba.zoche.  which  captured  the  fortress 

• <an  Juan  d>:  Ulua  Nov.  25)  and  occupied  Vera  Cruz  Dec.  5.  A land- 
ing party  under  the  Prince  de  JoinvUle  attacked  the  city  early  one 

• . r*  .ng  while  Santa  Anna  slept,  and  as  the  sailors  were  entering  their 
b • - a!  Ter  a repulse,  the  drowsy  general  rushed  them,  and  in  thesquabble 
\\  shot  in  the  leg  — which  was  amputated  in  a crude  way,  and  later 
remove  1 from  its  resting  place  at  Manna  de  Clavo  and  deposited  (under 
a fine  in  nument  inidst  imposing  ceremonies  at  Mexico  City.  To  pre- 

.-•  * r ho-uilities  a treaty  was  concluded  (March  1839)  and  Mexieo 
pai  l the  $000,000  in  full. 

Excursions:  El  Digue,  about  10  min.  walk  southward  from  the  Jardin 
J . : not  worth  a visit,  unless  time  hangs  heavily.  There  is  an 

unk<  nipt  mill,  and  a lake  which  sometimes  contains  water-lilies.  Follow 
tin  ' which  descends  past  the  W.  side  of  the  Hotel  Juarez,  enter 
the  < 'allc  dei  Digue . pass  the  lavanderia,  turn  to  the  1.  and  proceed  about 
. M ngther  k-paved  road.  An  interesting  excursion  for  those  who 
1 • ■ .:.t\  walks  is  bv  the  highway  to  (9  kilom.)  Coatepec.  Turn  to 

v ■ 1 at  the  Pargue  Juarez,  enter  the  Calle  del  Digue , cross  the  stone 
1 r;  a u enter  the  wide,  tree-shaded  and  stone-flagged  old  Spanish 
*t  r\  highway  — a section  of  the  great  camino  real  which  once  linked 
with  T h<  coast.  The  road  Trends  toward  the  S.-E.  and  soon  enters 

• thick  jungle.  In  the  early  morning  many  Indian  men  and  women 
r et  r iming  from  Coatepec.  In  places  the  tall  trees  make  a tunnel 

h the  road  passes.  The  jungle  is  filled  with  beauti- 
f’  in,..:  - v -h-h  are  hundreds  of  exquisite  orchids.  The  walking 

• good  ex  -opt  in  places  where  the  cobbles  have  been  removed  — 
•■in  i from  the  hill-tops  splendid  views  are  to  be  had.  The  typical  Indian 

tive.  The  traveller  can  return  to 
J •• ' :;>n  bv  <>ne  of  the  several  daily  trains  on  the  Ferrocarril  de  Jalapa 
'•Mir*. reed  by  train ) to  < 1 2 kilom.)  XiCO,  and  view  the  splendid 
v i to  • X zo  whence  Jalapa  and  Coatepec  receive  elec- 
ts itv  f*  ' lighting.  Thirtv  cubic  feet  of  water  reach  the  edge  of  the 
ri  tge  each  second  and  fall  256  ft.  into  the  rock-strewn  basin  below.  The 
environing  rountry  is  wild  and  picturesque. 

Fifty  mi.  N.  of  Jalapa  and  6 M.  from  the  village  of  Papantla  is  the 


1 Th>  leg  is  now  in  Memorial  Hall  at  Springfield,  111.  (FT.  S.  A.).  The 
I'm  : rch  ■ d an  1 worn  later  bv  the  discomfited  general  is  in  the  Mo- 

Museum.  His  real  leg  was  torn  from  its  tomb  at  Mexico 
< :n  Ivdi  an  1 dragged  with  a cord  through  the  street,  midst  in- 
sults. albeit  it  was  later  secured  and  buried. 


PYRAMID  OF  PAPANTLA  56.  Rte.  507 


ancient  Pyramid  of  Papantla  (called  by  the  Totonac  natives  of  the  re- 
gion, El  Tajin  1 = the  thunderbolt),  accidentally  discovered  by  some 
hunters  in  1785.  Standing  in  a dense  wood  far  from  the  highway  it  re- 
mained unknown  to  the  Spaniards.  Built  of  immense  porphyritic  blocks 
covered  with  hieroglyphics  and  bound  together  with  mortar,  it  is  sup- 
posed to  be  of  great  antiquity.  Human  figures  predominate  among  the 
carvings,  which  usually  represent  crocodiles,  serpents  and  smaller  rep- 
tilia.  The  structure  is  remarkable  for  its  symmetry,  the  polish  of  the 
stone  surfaces,  and  the  regularity  of  their  cut  The  base  of  the  pyramid 
is  an  exact  square,  each  side  82  ft.  long  with  a height  of  about  60  ft. 
Like  all  Mexican  teocalli  this  mound  is  composed  of  several  stages  or 
terraces,  reached  by  a grand  stairway  of  57  steps  leading  to  a truncated 
summit  where  human  sacrifices  were  made.  The  visitor  cannot  fail  to 
note  a number  of  square  niches  (366  in  all)  which  have  given  rise  to  the 
conjecture  that  they,  in  some  occult  way,  were  connected  with  the  Toltec 
calendar.  It  is  thought  that  the  twelve  additional  niches  in  the  stair 
toward  the  E.  may  have  represented  the  “useless”  or  intercalated  days 
at  the  end  of  their  cycle.  In  one  of  his  books  on  New  Spain  Baron  Von 
Humboldt  refers  to  the  analogy  of  the  brick  monuments  of  Andhuac 
to  the  temple  of  Belus  at  Babylon,  and  to  the  pyramids  near  Sakhara, 
Egypt  He  says:  “There  are  in  Mexico  pyramids  of  several  stages,  in 
the  forests  of  Papantla,  at  a small  elevation  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
and  on  the  plains  of  Cholula  and  Teotihuacan,  at  elevations  surpassing 
those  of  our  passes  in  the  Alps.  We  are  astonished  to  see  in  regions  most 
remote  from  one  another,  and  under  climates  of  the  greatest  diversity, 
man  following  the  same  model  in  his  edifices,  in  his  ornaments,  in  his 
habits,  and  even  in  the  form  of  his  political  institutions.”  Ruins  of  the 
structures  of  the  Totonacs,  who  anciently  dwelt  in  the  coast  region  of 
V era  Cruz,  lie  thick  throughout  the  vast  forests  between  Jalapa  and 
the  coast.  As  these  minor  ruins  are  devoid  of  the  greater  interest  which 
cluster  about  those  of  Mitla,  Teotihuacan  and  Yucatan,  they  are  rarely 
visited.  Their  difficulty  of  access  renders  them  little  known.  Travellers 
can  arrange  with  the  hotel  manager  for  horses  and  guides  for  Papantla. 

Jalapa , see  p.  503.  The  grade  slopes  sharply,  and  the  vege- 
tation which  flanks  the  rly.  shows  the  effects  of  the  heavy  rain- 
fall which  is  a feature  of  the  region.  The  almost  perpetual 
moisture  in  the  air,  and  the  warm  sunshine,  produce  a vigorous 
plant  life,  and  this  clothes  the  hillsides  with  perennial  green. 
We  traverse  plantations  of  coffee  ( cafetales ),  tobacco,  and  ba- 
nanas. A myriad  brilliant  flowers  add  huge  blotches  of  color  to 
the  landscape.  Beautiful  tree  ferns  abound;  lithe  lianas  bind 
the  jungle  trees  together,  and  the  almost  countless  orchids 
seem  here  to  reach  a high  perfection.  The  line  zig-zags  down- 
ward, crossing  and  re-crossing  the  old  military  highway  con- 
structed and  used  by  the  Spaniards  upward  of  three  centuries 
ago.  351  K.  Pacho.  358  K.  Munoz , amid  groves  of  coffee, 
bananas,  and  pineapples.  366  K.  Chavarillo,  a nondescript 
station,  on  a rolling  upland,  hemmed  in  by  high  hills.  Splendid 
view  of  the  snow  capped  cone  of  Orizaba  (on  the  r.).  381  K. 
El  Palmar.  We  enter  a region  of  palms  and  palmettos.  Range 
after  range  of  ravine-scarred  hills  pass  in  review.  The  deep 
valleys,  crossed  by  high  bridges,  are  fairly  choked  with  luxu- 
riant tropical  vegetation.  The  rly.  line  follows  narrow  terraces 
cut  in  the  Mt.  sides.  391  K.  Colorado , a shipping  point  for  corn. 

1 There  is  a handsome  carved  wood  reproduction  of  this  pyramid  in 
the  National  Museum  at  Mex.  City.  See  p.  298. 


508  Route  57. 


PUEBLA 


Arrival. 


'P  o r irion  roundabout  produces  quantities  of  huge  papayas 

i . 54  8 which  are  offered  at  the  stations  at  10-20  c.  each.  397 
K.  c irrizal.  407  K.  Rinconada.  416  K.  Tamarindo.  419  K. 
i ; ' <Lctle.  429  K.  San  Francisco.  We  leave  the  coffee  zone 

romp.  p.  4S9),  enter  the  tropics,  and  cross  a tropical  river 
spanned  by  a high  bridge.  433  K.  Salmoral.  The  region  from 
hen  to  the  coast  is  beautiful  and  intensely  productive.  Fine 
oranges,  cocoanuts,  fat  little  yellow  bananas  of  marvellous 
>\vc*«*tness,  papayas,  and  a host  of  other  tropical  fruits,  grow  by 
tin*  wayside.  Prominent  among  the  trees  are  many  fine  Coyol 
palms ; the  tall  ones,  with  clusters  of  small  nuts  the  size  of  dates 
are  known  as  Coyol  Real , and  they  supply  the  palm  oil  of 
commerce.  Hereabout  the  tall  trees  all  bend  toward  the  S.-W., 
because  of  the  strong  northern  gales  ( nortes , p.  471)  which 
blowdown  the  gulf  at  certain  seasons.  Palma  Christi , melon - 
2(ijoteycocoanut  palms,  and  a host  of  tropical  trees  are  visible 
from  the  cars,  as  are  also  broad  fields  of  sugar-cane.  We  pass 
the  small  stations  of  439  K.  Antigua  (but  22  ft.  above  sea 
level),  44S  K.  Vargas , 454  K.  Santa  Fe,  and  461  K.  Buena 
\'ista.  The  sea  is  visible  on  the  1. 474  K.  Vera  Cruz,  see  p.  469. 

57.  Puebla. 

Arrival.  The  Stations  ( eetaeiones ) of  the  FerrocaiTil  Interoceaiiico  (PI. 
B.  •;  • ■ • F.  C.  Mexicano,  and  the  F.  C.  Mexicano  del  Sur  CPI.  B,  2)  cluster 

at  tl  e N end  of  the  city,  within  5 min.  walk  of  each  other. 

Autos  and  cabs  tches  de  sitio ).  The  former  §2.50  an  hr.,  §1.50  T'or  4 
hour  < r 1*  Cabs  about  25  per  centcheaper.  Stands  at  various  parts  of  the 
city. 

Tram  cars  pass  near  the  stations  and  traverse  the  city  in  various  directions. 

Hotels  ornp.  p.  xlvii).  Hotel  del  Jardin,  near  the  cathedral  and  Zocalo. 

I fagU  re,  _'a  Calle  de  Mercaderes  4-6.  — Gran  Hotel  America, 
A • \ y intamiento  207.  Rates  from  §2  a day  and  up  for  room.  American 

plan,  from  S3.50  a day  and  up.  Meals  a la  carta.  — Certain  of  the  hotels  run 
fr*-e  omnibuses  tmiones)  between  the  rly.  stations  and  the  hotels.  Other 
hotel- an*  tin  Coldn , El  Pasaje.e tc.  None  of  the  hotels  come  up  to  the  Mexico 
t i tandard.  but  the  traveller  will  find  them  comfortable  enough  for  a 
brief  sojourn. 

Banks.  Banco  Xacional  de  Mexico.  — The  Compania  Comercial  y 
Bar  : r i <ir  pucbla  are  correspondents  of  the  Mexico  City  Banking  Corpo- 
ration, 8.  A. 

Museums,  .\fuseo  del  Estado , in  the  Colegio  del  Estado  (Pl.E,  3).  The 
erj  * xt<  nsive,  and  the  traveller  can  devote  the  time 
t . : advantage  in  the  Museo  Nacional  at  Mexico  City  (p.  298). 

Shops.  The  best  of  these  (bargaining  usually  necessary)  will  be  found 
in  r n r th*-  portale s PI.  D,  3),  of  the  Plaza  Principal.  Here  the  traveller 
i:  a*.  m-  ittraetive  specimens  of  the  beautiful  onyx  work  (p.xcvi)  for 
v.  hi  h /’  /<  i famous.  Antiques  can  perhaps  be  bought  to  better  ad- 
• in  M<  xico  City.  There  are  some  attractive  shops  in  the  Arcade 
E.  from  the  portalcs. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Offices.  Branches  in  various  parts  of  the  city. 

O . ( Correo  1 r Casa  Mairiz  de  Correos ) is  in  tne 

Callr  do  Victoria.  2 squares  N.  of  the  plaza. 

Churches  Puebla  i.=  essentially  a city  of  churches,  and  the  ecclesiologist 
' find  n uch  to  interest  him  in  some  of  the  really  fine  old  Churches  estab- 
li  ‘ ed  h*  n ini  times.  The  Cathedral,  described  at  p.  512 

ft  ,.  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  elaborate  in  the  Republic,  and  is  well 
-a  ort!  a detailed  inspection.  The  tiled  domes  of  the  various  churches  attract 
by  their  charm. 


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Excursions . 


CITY  OF  PUEBLA  57.  Route . 509 


Excursions.  Chief  among  the  pleasant  excursions  from  the 
city  is  that  to  the  ancient  and  highly  interesting  Pyramid  of 
Cholula,  described  at  p.  518.  Few  travellers  will  care  to  miss 
this.  The  history  of  the  pyramid  is  buried  in  the  remote  past, 
for  the  Aztecs  found  it  in  place  when  they  emerged  on  the 
Mexican  plateau  in  1176  of  our  era,  and  it  then  bore  the  marks 
of  extreme  antiquity.  That  it  has  a direct  relation  with  the 
gigantic  Pyramid  of  San  Juan  Teotihuacan  (p.  425)  near 
Mexico  City,  is  evident.  That  it  was  erected  by  a pyramid- 
building people  who  came  to  Mexico  (perchance  from  Egypt) 
at  some  remote  period  in  the  dim  past  is  more  than  probable. 

Puebla  (town,  place,  people  — pronounced  poo-eh-blah), 
a fair  city  (pop.  100,000  — known  politically  as  Puebla  de 
Zaragoza)  7,100  ft.  above  the  sea,  on  the  Great  Central 
Plateau,  at  the  S.-E.  edge  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  130  M. 
from  the  Mexican  capital,  in  lat.  19°  02'  30"  and  long.  0° 
56'  06";  capital  of  the  State  of  Puebla,  and  the  seat  of  an 
archbishop,  deserves  a visit  not  only  for  its  historical  associa- 
tions, but  also  for  its  many  attractive  churches  ( iglesias ),  of 
which  there  are  upward  of  sixty. 

The  architecture  of  Puebla  (which  sometimes  is  referred  to 
as  the  Rome  of  Mexico)  is  distinguished  by  a decided  Andalu- 
sian influence,  with  a liberal  use  of  Moorish  or  Persian  tiles 
( azulejos ).  Polychrome  tiles  1 are  employed  to  artistic  ad- 
vantage in  the  church  towers  and  domes,  in  the  private  resi- 
dences, fountains,  and  in  many  minor  ways. 

Puebla  was  long  a trade  centre  between  Mexico  and  Spain, 
and  from  a military  standpoint  it  is  regarded  as  the  key  to  the 
national  capital.  It  has  not  always  escaped  being  regarded  as 
reactionary,  and  it  was  among  the  last  of  the  important 
Mexican  cities  to  fall  into  progressive  ways. 

Political  malcontents  are  not  unknown  in  the  city,  and 
revolutionary  unrest  is  sometimes  manifest.  It  is  thought  that 
the  plot  which  eventually  caused  the  downfall  of  General 
Porfirio  Diaz  was  hatched  here.  Certain  it  is  that  a street 
( Calle  de  los  Martires  de  Noviembre  1910  — Street  of  the 
martyrs  of  Nov.  1910)  has  been  named  in  honor  of  certain 
individuals  who  lost  their  lives  in  a clash  with  the  authorities 
at  that  time. 

The  city  is  very  Catholic,  and  there  are  among  the  popula- 
tion persons  who  kneel  in  the  street  at  the  sound  of  the  Arch- 
bishop’s carriage- wheels,  and  who  hasten  to  kiss  the  ecclesiasti- 
cal hand.  The  situation  of  Puebla  — on  the  gradual  slope  of  the 
Sierra  Madre  foot-hills,  whence  magnificent  views  are  obtained 
— is  striking.  Three  eternally  snow-crowned  volcanoes,  and 

1 Puebla  was  the  first  city  in  Mexico  to  manufacture  the  renowned 
Talavera  ware  (p.  lxxiii),  and  the  colored  glazed  tiles  for  which  it  is  now 
celebrated,  and  which  are  sent  throughout  the  Republic,  to  decorate 
churches  and  secular  buildings. 


PUEBLA 


H istory. 


;,10  Route  57. 

many  le-ser  peaks,  overlook  the  city,  which  is  one  of  the  cleanest 
an,  I perhaps  one  of  the  healthiest  in  the  Repub.  The  straight 
and  fairly  broad  streets  run  at  right  angles  to  each  other,  and 
]<■  »r  to  1909  they  were  spanned  at  intervals  by  quaint  little 
arched  stone  causeways,  that  were  necessary  in  the  rainy 
season. 

History.  Soon  after  the  downfall  of  Tenochtitlan  the  Spaniards 
.!.•(  i,ied  to  found  a city  about  midway  between  the  Aztec  capital  and  the 
, -i  one  that  would  be  healthier  than  the  island  city  of  the  Indians, 
m en  r to  their  base  of  supplies,  and  which  would  afford  greater  security 
t<>t  heir  countrymen  engaged  in  agriculture  between  the  plateau  and  the 
o(  < n.  A Franciscan  friar,  Toribio  de  Benavente,  called  Father  Motolmia 
comp.  p.  441  . was  delegated  to  select  a suitable  spot,  and  he  chose  the 
plain  lying  between  the  stately  Popocatepetl  and  the  distant  peak  of 
M i/  - _-o..  or  Mctlacueyatl.  The  plateau  was  already  dotted  with  the 
t-ovns  of  Cholula.  Tlaxcala,  Tepeaca,  and  Huejotzingo , but  none  of  these 
unit*  i the  conditions  desired  by  the  conquistador  es.  According  to  the 
church  chronicles  Padre  Motolmia  was  greatly  aided  in  his  task  by  a 
bream  which  came  to  Fray  Julian  Garces , who  saw  two  angels  with  line 
a:.  : r -1  pacing  a beautiful  plain  flanked  by  tall  volcanoes.  The  site  was 
immediately  chosen  and  was  named  Puebla  de  los  Angeles.  In  his  His- 
t . . '!>  I >.<  Indios  de  Xuera  Espafia , Fray  Toribio  says:  “The  City  of  the 
Ang  U.  in  the  fertile  Atoyac  Valley , Province  of  Tlaeccala , New  Spain,  was 
f ; at  the  urgent  request  of  the  Franciscan  Friars,  and  by  order  of 

th  A tdu  ncia  Real , whose  President  was  Bishop  Fuenleal.  It  was  estab- 
lished on  the  16th  of  April  — the  day  of  Santo  Toribio  — in  the  year 
1 1 ight  thousand  Tlaxcalan  allies  and  many  other  Indians  came 
: r a 7 • ; • aea  and  H uejotzingo,  and  erected  the  first  huts  for  the  workmen. 
Th*  '<  allies  came  singing  and  dancing  and  playing  upon  their  musical 
r.'-  ruments.  The  day  was  one  of  great  rejoicing,  and  mass  was  celebrated 
; n the  place  marked  out  for  the  city.  On  this  day  also  came  forty 
>1  mish  families  to  settle  in  the  new  city.”  The  Indians  have  a different 
tr  idition:  one  to  the  effect  that  a small  native  town  was  demolished  to 
make  way  for  the  Spanish  city,  which  was  founded  on  a spot  called 
C uetlaxcoapan  — "where  hides  are  washed.”  The  first  mass  was  said 
mi  t he  Mtc  of  the  present  ch.  of  San  Ramon;  the  first  house  was  erected 
in  i he  Miburb  of  San  Sebastian.  The  suburb  of  Santa  Ana  was  given  over 
to  the  Tlaxcalans;  that  of  San  Pablo  el  Antiguo  to  the  Aztec  allies,  and 
/‘■r  h>  . i X n > o and  Santiago,  to  the  Cholulans.  Though  it  failed  to 
.;  ! i nt  T>  riochtitldn . Puebla  rose  in  time  to  be  the  second  city  of  the 

* • i nt r y.  The  transference  of  the  Episcopal  See  from  Tlaxcala  gave  a 

gn  \ impetus  to  church  and  convent  building.  The  Dominicans  followed 
< . •-<  on  the  heels  of  the  Franciscans,  and  were  in  turn  followed  by 
th.  Augu-tinians,  the  Jesuits,  and  the  Carmelites.  “It  seems,”  says 
l’  • ft.  to  have  inherited  the  religious  pre-eminence  of  the  ancient 
( ' bring  distinguished,  like  her,  for  the  number  and  splendor  of  its 

churches,  th**  multitude  of  its  clergy,  and  the  magnificence  of  its  cere- 
m i-  - md  festivals.”  (Some  of  the  first  great  conventual  estates  still 
« \ : : : i r hem  have  been  so  altered,  to  meet  commercial  requirements,  as 
to  l»e  almost  unrecognizable.) 

/’  i capitulated  to  Agustin  Iturbide  in  1821;  was  taken  by  the 

• r‘  n Gr rural  Scott  in  1847,  and  was  besieged  and  taken  by  the 
1 m h soldiers  of  Napoleon  in  1S62.  The  repulse  of  the  French,  on 
862,  by  th  valiant  Mexican  General  Ignacio  Zaragoza,  was  a 
i"  ' niilit . * r > achievement ; the  city  was  thereafter  called  Puebla  de 
/ >n  i the  day  became  a national  holiday.  The  French  again 

1 ' v-d  tli**  city  and  captured  it  (May  17,  1S63)  after  a two  months’ 

" -m-  ( *ii  April  2,  1867,  it  was  the  scene  of  a furious  battle  between 

s.  The 

• tmm*  nt  was  one  of  the  most  brilliant  and  successful  conducted  by 

1 ’ ■ d P oz,  and  the  anniversary  was  also  declared  a national  holiday. 

A ’ ‘ time  Puebla  was  in  the  power  of  the  Imperial  forces  and  their 
ai*»cs  under  General  Manuel  Noriega,  a sturdy  and  courageous  fighter, 


Plaza. 


PUEBLA 


57.  Route.  511 


who,  for  27  days,  had  defended  it  against  the  repeated  assaults  of  the 
Mexicans.  Noriega  was  in  high  spirits  because  of  a private  communica- 
tion informing  him  that  Maximilian  had  despatched  General  Leonardo 
Marquez  to  Puebla  with  reinforcements,  and  that  General  Diaz  and  his 
handful  of  patriots  were  on  the  eve  of  being  trapped  between  the  two 
forces.  This  wily  general  had,  however,  intercepted  the  message,  and, 
mindful  of  his  perilous  predicament,  had  decided  to  take  the  city  by 
storm,  whatever  might  be  the  loss.  Feigning  a retreat,  he  divided  his 
forces  and  shortly  before  daylight  of  April  2d  he  attacked  the  stronghold 
at  various  points,  fighting  against  tremendous  odds.  Led  in  person  by 
General  Diaz , the  heroic  Mexicans  captured  one  in'trenchment  after 
another,  and  daylight  saw  them  in  possession  of  the  place. 

The  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion  (P1.D,3),  flanking  the  Ca- 
thedral and  the  portales,  contains  some  unusually  tall  trees, 
a number  of  fountains,  a music  kiosk  (military  music  on  cer- 
tain evenings),  and  some  parterres  of  semi-tropical  flowers.  It 
was  formerly  a mere  stone-flagged  square,  sun-burned  and 
uninviting.  It  is  of  particular  interest  to  Americans  because 
of  a severe  conflict  (in  Oct.,  1847)  between  2,500  men  of  the 
Mexican  General  Antonio  Lopez  de  Santa  Anna's  army,  and 
500  gaunt  and  weather-beaten  Americans  under  Colonel 
Childs  — a portion  of  General  Worth's  command  left  to  guard 
1,800  sick  and  disabled  soldiers  of  the  main  army  then  on  its 
way  from  Vera  Cruz  to  the  Mexican  capital. 

The  fierce  battle  of  Cerro  Gordo  had  just  been  fought,  and  though  the 
Americans  had  emerged  triumphant,  they  had  been  seriously  disabled  by 
the  Mexicans.  When  the  main  army  continued  its  march  Colonel  Childs 
found  himself  encompassed  in  a hostile  city  of  80,000  inhabitants  who 
took  no  pains  to  conceal  their  dislike  for  him  and  his  wounded  country- 
men. Anticipating  trouble  he  secured  30  cattle  and  400  sheep,  along  with 
army  stores,  and  barricaded  himself  in  the  plaza,  with  stones  and  bales 
of  cotton.  The  main  army  was  no  sooner  out  of  sight  than  Santa  Anna, 
who  had  held  together  about  2,500  men,  determined  to  attempt  to 
retrieve  his  fortunes,  and  by  an  attack  on  the  harassed  Americans,  revive 
the  drooping  spirits  of  his  men.  He  sent  Childs  a summons  to  surrender, 
which  was  refused.  The  Mexicans  then  opened  a fierce  artillery  fire  on 
the  encampment  in  the  plaza.  A persistent  and  galling  musketry  fire  was 
directed  against  the  sick  and  besieged  troops  from  the  house-tops,  while 
from  the  narrow,  converging  streets  the  foot  soldiers  attacked  with  the 
bayonet.  The  church  bells  sang  joyously,  and  the  unequal  battle  was 
watched  eagerly  by  the  entire  population  The  heart-rending  struggle 
was  maintained  for  30  days,  under  an  almost  continuous  fire,  many  of 
the  sick  soldiers  standing  guard  and  taking  part.  The  approach  of 
General  Lane  with  reinforcements  from  Vera  Cruz  forced  Santa  Anna 
to  retire. 

The  Paseo  Nuevo,  in  the  N.  part  of  the  city  (PI.  B,  4),  is  noteworthy 
for  a handsome  bronze  group  of  statuary  erected  (by  the  state  of  Puebla 
in  1898)  to  the  memory  of  the  Heroes  of  the  War  for  Independence- 
Beside  a figure  of  Liberty  is  one  of  Miguel  Hidalgo,  Jose  Maria  Morelos 
and  other  patriots;  prominent  among  them  the  sturdy  peon  miner  of 
Guanajuato,  who  with  a paving  stone  as  a shield  against  Spanish  bullets 
blew  up  the  door  to  the  Alhondiga  (p.  139)  and  turned  the  tide  in  favor 
of  the  insurgents.  Hard  by  is  a statue  of  the  philosopher  Gabino  Barreda, 
and  one  to  Esteban  de  Antuhano,  fundador  de  la  industria  fabril  en  el  pais. 
Directly  behind  this  statue  is  an  evil-smelling  sulphur  spring  whose 
vaporous  waters  rush  hot  from  the  heart  of  the  distant  volcano  and  waste 
their  efficacy  in  the  local  sewer.  At  the  S.  end  of  the  paseo  is  a striking 
monument  erected  (by  the  state  in  1896)  to  Nicolas  Bravo.  The  most 
interesting  object  in  this  part  of  the  city  is  the  Church  of  Nuestra 
Sehora  do  Guadalupe  (PI.  B,  3),  which  faces  the  paseo  at  the  E.  The 


512  Route  57. 


PUEBLA 


Cathedral. 


interior  is  uninteresting  — the  four  huge  paintings  which  represent 
scenes  in  the  Apparition  of  the  Virgin  to  Juan  Diego  being  mediocre 
roj. u*>  of  those  in  the  ch.  of  Nuestra  Sefiora  de  Guadalupe , described  at 
p.  '*7  ‘This  church  offers  in  its  facade  another  remarkable  example  of 
: hi-  iccorative  use  of  glazed  tiles  that  is  peculiar  to  Puebla.  In  the  bases 
oft  ho  towers  the  tiles  are  red  and  green,  the  pictures  have  blue  and  white 
borders  with  polychrome  figures:  the  sun  and  the  moon  with  orange 
tx  :ies  and  yellow  rays  are  upon  a blue  ground.  In  the  surface  of  the 
f ioade,  the  zig-zag  bands  are  of  orange,  blue  and  green,  alternating  with 
wmte.  The  arched  border  is  of  blue  and  white.  The  angels  in  the  span- 
« ire  Is  have  yellow  garments  and  orange  wings.”  The  four,  square  colored 
tile  pictures  refer  to  the  Apparition  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe,  and  the 
iriM-riptions  beneath  the  four  make  the  famous  phrase  Non  fecit  taliter 
ornta  untie, ne  comp.  p.  398*.  The  time-stained  dome  is  odd,  with  work- 
manship similar  to  that  of  the  towers.  This  is  the  ch.  one  sees  when 
looking  \Y.  from  the  platform  of  the  Interoceanic  Rly.  Station. 

The  Cathedral  (PL  D,4),  undoubtedly  one  of  the  largest, 
handsomest , and  richest  Catholic  temples  in  America,  a relic 
of  early  Spanish  colonial  days  and  a treasury  of  historical 
associations,  is  open  all  day  (except  from  noon  to  2.30)  free  to 
visitors.  As  a rule  permission  has  to  be  obtained  from  the 
sacristan  to  enter  the  choir  and  the  Sola  Capitular , and  as  this 
functionary  is  apt  to  be  busy  in  the  early  afternoon  (at  which 
time  even  the  “ travelling  peso  ” may  fail  to  work)  the  tourist 
should  plan  to  visit  the  edifice  in  the  morning.  “ The  Cathedral 
of  Puebla  [says  Mr.  Baxter]  ranks  next  to  that  of  Mexico  City 
in  architectural  importance.  Both  without  and  within  it  has 
an  effect  of  greater  unity  than  that  of  the  capital,  but  exteri- 
orly it  lacks  the  elegant  richness  of  the  greater  building,  and 
internally  it  is  less  impressive  though  by  no  means  wanting 
in  grandeur.  The  facade  has  the  charm  of  a beautiful  simplic- 
ity, enriched  by  much  sculpture  and  fine  decorative  carv  ing 
in  white  marble.  Surpassing  the  facade  in  design  is  the  N. 
port:d  of  the  transept,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  examples  of 
Spanish  renaissance  in  all  Mexico.” 

Th*  m.t'sive  proportions  of  the  edifice  are  seen  to  great  disadvantage 
fr  i the  p:trk-!ike  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion , which  extends  clear  along  one 
- ;•  of  it.  and  from  the  narrow  streets  which  hem  it  in  on  its  three  other 

■ - It  lands  upon  a slightly  elevated  platform  or  terrace  covering  a 
wi  i<-  area  An  encircling  iron  fence  with  posts  surmounted  by  winged 

..•l'  the  work  of  an  American  foundry  established  in  Puebla  in  1825) 
cm  lo-a-s  the  long,  dreary  stone-flagged  atrium,  which,  with  the  massive 

-id  tira<  -t  ained  buttresses,  emphasizes  the  contrast  between  the  some- 
what uninviting  exterior  and  the  sumptuous  interior.  At  first,  the 
>1  . - who  settled  in  Puebla  contented  themselves  with  the  modest 

ch.  erected  .bout  1535>  by  Bishop  Juan  de  Zumdrraga.  In  1562  Fdipe 
II  p proved  the  plans  for  the  present  structure.  These  plans  were  drawn 
by  i h*-  celebrated  architect  Juan  de  Herrera,  who  built  the  Spanish 
1 rial,  and  who  was  the  alleged  constructor  of  the  equally  celebrated 
}'  l ;•  of  St  ju  ia  a Cyclopean  aqueduct  erected  by  Trajan  and  considered 
one  of  the  finest  Homan  remains  in  Castile).  The  corner-stone  of  the  ch. 
was  laid  the  same  year,  and  it  was  completed  April  IS,  1649  (at  a cost 
of  a million  and  a half  pesos),  and  consecrated  on  that  day  by  Bishop 
Juan  dr  Polafox  y Mendoza.  It  is  323  ft.  long  by  101  ft.  wide,  of  dark 
br  wn  -tone  remarkably  preserved.  Its  twin  towers  (240  ft.  high)  domi- 
i.  ’■  T he  cit  v and  are  visible  for  miles  around.  The  lanterns  capping  the 
towers  are  covered  with  red  and  yellow  glazed  tiles,  and  the  great  dome 


Cathedral.  PUEBLA  57.  Route.  513 


(designed  by  Ferrar)  is  covered  with  yellow  and  green  glazed  tiles,  giving 
the  effect  of  greenish  gold. 

The  Campanario,  erected  in  1678  at  a cost  of  $100,000  (according  to 
an  old  inscription  on  the  tower),  contains  nearly  a score  of  bells,  with 
various  dates  up  to  1828.  The  largest  weighs  9 tons  and  bears  the  date 
1729.  Its  deep,  melodious  tones  remind  the  traveller  of  certain  of  the 
bells  of  Florence.  A modern  clock  in  the  W.  tower  detracts  from  its 
appearance. 

The  Main  Entrance,  between  the  towers,  is  surmounted  by  stone 
carvings  and  basso-relievos  in  white  marble.  Sculptured  saints  and 
figurines  occupy  the  various  niches,  and  over  the  central  doorway  is  the 
date  1664,  which  commemorates  the  completion  of  this  portion  of  the  ch. 
Above  is  a crown  and  the  insignia  of  the  order  of  the  Golden  Fleece 
( Toison  de  oro ).  On  the  r.  is  a basso-relievo  representing  St.  Francis  and 
the  stigmata;  on  the  1.  is  Santa  Rosa  offering  a crown  of  flowers  to  the 
Infant  Jesus  in  the  Virgin’s  arms.  The  huge  carved  doors,  swung  on 
massive  pivots  let  into  soffits,  are  not  without  interest.  The  side  entrance 
is  embellished  with  statues,  some  of  them  arrayed  in  pontifical  robes, 
with  medallions  in  marble,  and  with  the  Pope’s  mitre  and  keys.  The 
massive  side  doors,  with  smaller  ones  cut  into  them,  are  studded  with 
bronze  bosses.  The  monument  in  the  atrium  was  erected  in  1886  to  the 
memory  of  Pope  Pius  IX. 

The  Interior  of  the  Cathedral  is  a veritable  museum  of  pictures,  not 
all  noteworthy:  each  of  the  14  chapels  has  a half  dozen  or  more;  many 
hang  against  the  walls,  and  at  the  Altar  de  los  Reyes  there  are  19.  The 
interior  forms  a huge  parallelogram  295  ft.  E.  and  W.  and  153  N.  and 
S.  The  central  nave  ( Nave  del  Perdon)  is  87  ft.  high,  and  is  separated 
from  the  lateral  naves  (63  ft.  high)  by  unusually  massive,  but  graceful 
stone  columns.  The  interior  view  is  marred  by  the  coro  in  the  centre  — 
a traditional  remembrance  of  the  early  basilicas,  and  popular  in  Spanish 
Cathedrals.  The  critical  eye  will  note  a preponderance  of  the  Mexican 
marble  known  as  Puebla  onyx  (p.  518),  which  detracts  somewhat  from 
the  artistic  ensemble.  The  effect  of  the  great  marble  paved  floor  is  ad- 
mirable. The  tall  gilt  rejas  which  separate  the  side  chapels  from  the  aisles 
are  very  elaborate,  and  the  chancels  are  splendidly  carved  examples 
of  earlv  work.  The  14  semi-oval  paintings,  in  handsome  gilt  frames, 
which  hang  from  the  lateral  pilasters  and  represent  the  14  stations  of 
the  cross,  are  attributed  to  the  celebrated  Zapotec  Indian  painter,  Miguel 
Cabrera  (p.  cli),  albeit  the  work  (thanks  to  the  meddling  hand  of  the 
modernizer)  is  sadly  injured  by  restoration.  The  various  confessionals 
are  good  examples  of  native  wood-carving.  The  few  stained-glass  win- 
dows, which  are  not  noteworthy,  are  of  European  origin.  The  massive 
gilded  candelabra  are  worth  looking  at.  The  seats  on  the  side  of  the 
crujia , or  railed-off  passage  between  the  coro  and  the  high  altar,  are  re- 
served for  men,  and  a printed  sign  advises  that  women  are  not  allowed 
there  even  when  accompanied  by  men.  The  opposite  seats  are  for  women. 
The  whole  interior  has  an  air  of  newness  and  of  wealth  in  keeping  with 
the  rich  city  of  Puebla , of  which  the  Cathedral  is  the  spiritual  head. 
On  the  r.  of  the  entrance  from  the  plaza  is  a huge  painting  of  San  Cris- 
tobal, and  on  the  1.  a companion  piece,  Aparicion  a.  San  Miguel  — both 
mediocre  and  by  unknown  painters.  The  unusually  massive  pulpits  are 
carved  from  the  Puebla  onyx. 

The  Coro  contains  a veritable  art  treasure  in  the  fine  marquetry 
silleria,  the  wrork  of  the  master  Pedro  Munoz,  who  began  it  Aug.  24,  1719, 
and  completed  it  June  24,  1722.  The  panels  of  the  54  upper  seats  and 
the  46  lower  ones,  as  well  as  the  graceful  wooden  shells  which  surmount 
the  former,  and  the  beautiful  doors  of  the  side  entrances,  are  inlaid  in 
many  intricate  patterns,  no  two  alike.  At  the  rear  of  the  bishop’s  seat 
is  a small  inlaid  door  with  a picture,  in  marquetry  work,  of  St.  Peter. 
Behind  this  door  (which  always  is  to  be  unlocked  and  which  rarely  is) 
is  a shrine  containing  an  alleged  thorn  (much  venerated)  from  the  Sa- 
viour’s Crown.  Above  the  door  is  an  ivory  figurine  of  the  Purisima 
Virgen.  The  old  and  quaint  lectern  (the  work  of  Pedro  Munoz ) carries 
some  time-stained  pergamino  books  with  illuminated  text.  Near  the 
entrance  to  the  coro,  let  into  the  panelling  of  the  seats  at  the  1.,  is  an 


514  Route  57. 


PUEBLA 


Sacristy. 


ov:il  painting  of  the  Nativity,  with  figures  of  San  Pedro  Arbeus,  San 
J wm  X rpomureno,  and  others.  The  richly  carved  wood  cases  of  the  organs 
are  among  the  best  in  Mexico.  The  twin  wheels  of  bells  on  the  pilasters 
of  the  rant  are  quaint  relics  of  early  Spanish  days. 

On  the  1.  outer  wall  of  the  coro  are  four  large  pictures  illustrating  scenes 
in  the  life  of  the  Virgin,  painted  by  Jose  Ibarra  (p.  cl)  in  1732.  On  one 
i-  a curious  inscription  in  old  Spanish,  to  the  effect  that:  “The  most 
singular  miracle,  which  for  the  glory  of  the  Holy  Catholic  Church  and 
the  honor  of  Spain,  was  performed  by  Our  Lord  in  the  City  of  Toledo, 
where  the  Holy  Leocadia  Virgin  is.  After  more  than  340  years  after 
sin-  suffered  martyrdom  and  was  raised  from  the  dead,  she  appeared 
before  King  Recesvinto,  all  his  court  and  a great  multitude  of  the  com- 
monalty, and  thanked  archbishop  San  Ildefonso,  who  was  present,  for 
h a \ ing  defended  against  the  Heretics  the  most  pure  and  perpetual  vir- 
ginity of  Mary  the  Mother  of  Jesus  and  Queen  of  the  Angels.”1 

The  High  Altar,  an  elaborate  structure  of  gilded  pillars,  green  onyx, 
and  marble  statuary,  is  considered  superior  to  the  similar  feature  in  the 
M xico  City  Cathedral.  The  original  altar  was  by  Ferrar,  but  the  present 
'tnicture  was  begun  by  Tolsa  (after  his  own  plans)  and  completed  (in 
18110  by  Don  Jose  Manso.  Additions  have  since  been  made  by  local 
craftsmen,  and  §110,000  are  said  to  have  been  already  spent  on  the 
structure.  The  bronze  figure  of  La  Purisima  Virgen  is  one  of  Tolsa' s 
best  works.  Beneath  the  presbiterio  is  a crypt,  decorated  with  Puebla 
onyx,  wherein  are  buried  certain  ecclesiastics. 

The  Sagrario,  which  is  located  at  the  rear  of  the  apse  and  is  entered 
from  the  S.  end  of  the  atrium,  contains  only  one  picture  of  note,  a 
Christ  Praying  in  the  Garden,  the  work  of  Miguel  Geronimo  Zendejas, 
who  died  in  Puebla  in  1810,  aged  92. 

1'he  Capilla  de  los  Reyes,  to  which  several  steps  ascend,  behind  the 
high  altar,  in  the  apse,  has  a magnificent  retablo  designed  by  the  famous 
Spanish  sculptor  Juan  Martinez  Montanez,  who  was  the  author  of  vari- 
ous celebrated  retablos  in  Spain.  Of  the  19  paintings  the  six  large  ones 
are  hv  Pedro  Garcia  Ferrar  (who  came  from  Spain  with  Bishop  Palafox 
in  1640),  and  are  probably  the  only  ones  he  painted  in  Mexico.  The  deco- 
ration of  the  dome  and  the  pendentives  are  by  Cristobal  de  Villalpando 
tp.c.xlix).  The  allegory  of  the  Assumption,  in  the  dome,  is  not  without 
merit.  This  chapel  is  often  called  Capilla  de  Nuestra  Seiiora  de  la  De- 
fen a.  from  a huge  painting  of  the  Virgin  in  the  centre.  There  are  some 
seulpt ures  in  oynx  to  the  r.  and  1.  of  the  steps  which  lead  up  to  the 
altar,  and  outside  the  reja  (which  was  newly  gilded  with  the  renova- 
tion of  the  Cathedral)  are  two  long  Latin  inscriptions  referring  to  the 
hist  orv  of  the  ch.  Let  into  the  chapel  wall  are  several  mortuary  tablets 
of  ecclesiastics  buried  here. 

The  Sacristy,  to  the  r.  of  the  tabernaculo  and  the  Altar  de  los  Reyes , 

: magnificent  room,  particularly  notable  for  its  great  mural  paintings, 

richly  framed,  and  for  its  estantes,  for  storing  the  vestments,  of 
ham  homely  carved  wood.  The  painting  at  the  head  of  the  room  and 
t In*  ad  j a cent  four  on  the  sides  are  by  Echave  el  Mozo  (p.  cxlviii).  The  first 
i a version  of  a work  by  Rubens,  representing  The  Triumph  of  Mary. 
The  other  two  principal  ones  represent  The  Triumph  of  the  Cross  and 
tie  T’  umph  of  Faith  over  Idolatry.  Below  the  latter  (on  the  1.),  which 
i'  Unown  also  jus  El  Templo  Paqano,  is  a fine  head  of  the  Santisima  Vir- 
u n.  attributed  to  Correggio.  The  three  other  large  paintings  (by  Joa- 
M agon,  a Puebla  painter  of  the  18th  cent.),  a Last  Supper,  Patro- 
' m d>  la  Santisima  Virgen,  and  a curious  Apocalipsis , are  inferior  in 
•inality  to  the  first-named  pictures.  There  are  also  some  minor  paintings 
of  no  particular  merit,  chief  among  them  an  Assumption  by  some  pupil 
of  the  Murillo  School.  The  picture  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  is  a copy 


1 Saint  Leocadia  is  one  of  the  tutelars  of  the  City  of  Toledo  (Spain), 
"here  she  was  martyred  at  the  command  of  the  Emperor  Dacian.  On 
ion  referred  to  in  the  above  picture,  San  Ildefonso,  when  the 
int  appeared  to  him,  had  the  presence  of  mind  to  cut  off  a piece  of  the 
h<  « nlv  messenger’s  robe  — still  to  be  seen  in  the  relicario  of  the  Cathe- 
dral of  that  city. 


Churches. 


PUEBLA 


57.  Route . 515 


of  the  original  in  the  Church  of  Nuestra  Sehora  de  Guadalupe  at  Guada- 
lupe (Mex.  City).  Adjoining  the  sacristy,  and  reached  through  a short 
pasillo  at  the  r.,  is  the 

Sala  Capitular,  or  Chapter  Room,  which  is  hung  with  magnificent 
Flemish  tapestries,  after  designs  by  Rubens , and  presented  to  the  Cathe- 
dral by  the  Emperor  Charles  V . Mr.  Baxter  holds  the  view  that  the  pagan 
subjects  of  these  superb  textiles  are  out  of  harmony  with,  and  produce 
a strange  effect  in,  a church.  Church-meetings  are  often  held  in  this 
room,  and  the  sacristan  may  refuse  to  show  the  tapestries  to  visitors  be- 
fore 5 p.  M. 

The  panorama  visible  from  the  Cathedral  Towers  is  very  fine,  and 
these  should  be  ascended  if  only  for  the  sake  of  the  view.  The  aspect  of 
the  city,  with  its  many  tile  covered  domes,  is  very  Oriental  — recalling 
certain  cities  of  British  India.  The  splendid  snow-crowned  summits  of 
Popocatepetl , Iztaccihuatl  and  Malinche  almost  overshadow  the  city 
with  their  giant  bulk.  Far  to  the  E.,  piercing  the  sky  with  its  almost 
perfect  cone,  rises  the  romantic  Pico  de  Orizaba.  Midway  between  Popo 
and  the  “woman  in  white”  is  the  gap  through  which  the  bold  Cortes 
led  his  mailed  troops  in  their  first  advance  (in  1519)  on  the  Aztec  metro- 
polis. Near  this  natural  mountain  pass,  but  closer  to  the  city,  is  the 
celebrated  Pyramid  of  Cholula  (p.  518)  crowned  by  its  ch.  of  glistening 
white.  The  Cerros  de  Guadalupe  and  Loreto  are  prominent  features  of 
the  suburbs.  To  the  E.  is  the  highway  over  which  the  American  General 
Scott  led  his  troops  (in  1847)  to  the  siege  and  capture  of  Mexico  City. 

The  Church  of  San  Francisco  (PI.  E,  2),  founded  in  1532  (the  pre- 
sent edifice  dates  from  1667),  has  one  of  the  most  graceful  towers  in 
Puebla , and  a facade  quite  unlike  anything  else  in  the  Republic.  Its 
unusual  form  of  C hurrigueresque  work  chiselled  in  the  stone,  and  its 
decoration  of  glazed  tiles  set  in  red  brick,  are  unique.  Certain  of  the 
lustred  tiles  are  formed  into  flowers  of  blue  and  yellow  on  a white 
ground  with  a connecting  network  of  Mudejar  patterns.  A series  of 
blue  and  white  vases,  or  jars,  adorn  the  projecting  angles  of  the  brown 
stone  strip  which  reaches  from  the  pave  to  the  tower,  and  these,  with 
the  tiled  figures  of  santos , crosses,  and  whatnot,  form  a joyous  ensemble 
very  unusual  for  a church  facade.  The  interior  is,  on  the  whole,  unin- 
teresting; the  coro  with  its  Rococco  stalls  being  the  most  noteworthy 
feature.  The  old  convent  adjoining  the  ch.  is  now  used  as  a Hospital 
Militar.  About  2 squares  to  the  S.-E.  is  the  (uninteresting)  Templo  de 
la  Cruz.  In  this  immediate  neighborhood,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  Paseo 
de  San  Francisco  (at  the  W.  end  of  which  stands  the  ch.  of  the  same 
name),  is  a striking 

Bronze  Equestrian  Statue  of  General  Ignacio  Zaragoza  (the  work  of 
Jesus  F.  Contreras , in  1895),  PI.  E,  1.  According  to  the  inscription  it 
was  erected  by  the  state  of  Puebla , in  1896,  during  the  administration 
of  General  Mucio  P.  Martinez.  At  the  base  of  the  pedestal  are  the  names 
of  the  generals  who  aided  Zaragoza  in  his  expulsion  of  the  French  troops 
during  the  French  Intervention.  The  Cerro  de  Guadalupe  (Pl.E,  1),  with 
its  frowning  fortress,  is  visible  to  the  1.,  and  behind  the  hospital,  to  the 
r.,  is  the  Cerro  de  Loreto  (PI.  E,  1),  also  surmounted  by  a fortress.  To 
the  1.  of  the  Zaragoza  statue,  across  an  intervening  creek,  is  the 

Church  of  San  Jose  (PI.  D,  2)  facing  the  plaza  of  the  same  name, 
“with  much  remarkable  tile- work,  notably  in  the  columns  and  pilasters 
of  the  fagade.  The  treatment  is  blue  and  yellow,  and  the  fine  dome  of 
the  chapel  on  the  1.,  with  its  drum,  is  covered  with  tiles  of  yellow,  grayish- 
blue,  and  orange.  On  the  1.  near  the  ch.  is  a small  dome  brilliantly  de- 
corated in  glazed  tile.  It  does  not  belong  to  the  ch.  building  itself,  but 
crowns  the  curato , the  residence  of  the  clergy  of  the  parish.  The  dome 
is  covered  with  small  white  tiles  decorated  with  designs  in  light  blue;  the 
ribs  are  marked  by  two  bands  of  yellow  tile;  the  lantern  is  also  in  white 
and  light  blue,  with  a belt  of  chevrons,  and  alternating  dark  blue  and 
yellow  tiles  at  the  base.”  This  ch.  is  best  reached  by  taking  a tram-cai 
at  the  Plaza  Principal  and  proceeding  to  the  Plaza  de  San  Jose.  In  the 

Plazuela  de  San  Francisco , facing  the  ch.  of  the  same  name  but  about 
one  square  distant,  is  the  charming  old  Fountain  of  San  Miguel  (Pl.D,  3), 
a specimen  of  18th  cent,  work  which  was  erected  in  the  Plaza  Principal 


516  Route  57. 


PUEBLA 


Churches . 


in  1777  but  was  brought  hither  in  1878.  Immediately  to  the  N.-W.  of 
t 1m*  fountain  is  the  very  quaint  old  Parian  (PI.  D,  3),  or  market,  where 
nl.|  iron  articles  and  other  rubbish  are  exposed  for  sale.  The  distin- 
guishing features  of  the  long  row  of  stalls  are  the  projecting  hoods  above 
the  doors,  and  the  white  and  blue  tiles  set  in  a red  ground.  Hard  by  is 
one  of  the  oddest  and  most  interesting  houses  in  the  city. 

La  Casa  de  Alfenique  (PI.  D,  3),  a prominent  example  of  the  old- 
time  architecture  at  one  period  peculiar  to  the  city.  “(The  word  al- 
f>  iquc  is  Spanish  for  almond-cake,  and  the  house  received  the  name  from 
its  combination  of  florid  ornamentation  with  elaborate  tile-work — a 
unique  local  development  of  the  Churrigueresque.  The  term  is  equiva- 
lent to  a 4 ginger-bread  house.’)  The  surface  pattern  is  formed  by  blue 
ami  white  glazed  tiles  set  in  a ground  of  plain  red  ones.  The  broad  pro- 
jecting  stone-work  that  shelters  the  balconies  in  the  upper  story,  at  the 
corner  and  elsewhere,  is  a common  feature  in  the  domestic  architecture 
of  Puebla.”  The  house  is  late  17th  cent,  work,  and  is  well  worth  looking 
at.  The  house  next  door,  No.  14  ( Calle  de  Raboso ),  which  houses  the 
Jefatura  de  Hacienda , also  has  a very  curious  facade  inlaid  with  trian- 
gular white  tiles.  The  house  yet  further  up  the  street,  No.  8,  is  likewise  a 
curious  old  relic  of  Spanish  colonial  days.  The  odd  porticoes  (like  wagon- 
tops)  above  the  upper  windows,  and  the  squat,  white-tiled  covered  dome 
at  one  corner,  remind  one  of  mediaeval  times. 

The  Templo  de  La  Compania  (of  Jesus),  one  square  S.  of  the  Plaza 
Principal  (PI.  D,  3),  is  of  cathedral-like  proportions  and  has  one  of  the 
queerest  domes  in  the  city.  This  dome,  w’hich  is  covered  with  blue  and 
white  tiles  and  surmounted  by  a bizarre  lantern  decorated  in  the  same 
manner,  is  flanked  by  quaint  flying  buttresses  and  is  noteworthy  for  a 
maze  of  stone  carving.  The  leaden  facade  is  unusually  repulsive.  Within 
are  many  mural  paintings,  most  of  them  without  merit.  The  altars  are 
over-decorated.  The  huge  stoup  is  of  onyx. 

The  Church  of  San  Cristobal  (Pl.D,  3),  with  an  uninviting  exterior, 
ha>  an  interior  that  is  not  without  interest;  the  most  noteworthy  ob- 
jerts  being  several  pieces  of  sculpture  by  Jose  A.  Villegas  de  Cora  — a 
giant  figure  of  San  Cristobal  with  the  Child  Jesus  (in  the  r.  transept  at  the 
Altar  dc  San  Cristobal),  the  Virgin  of  the  High  Altar,  and  an  attractive 
V irgin  of  Lourdes  (between  the  high  altar  and  the  r.  transept).  The  de- 
corations are  new.  but  the  stucco-work — similar  to  that  of  Santo 
I)nrn  in  go  at  Oaxaca  — dates  from  the  erection  (early  in  the  17th  cent.) 
of  the  ch.  Behind  the  quaint  little  balconies  which  overlook  the  single 
aide  arc'  four  huge  paintings  (the  work  of  Lorenzo  Zendejas)  illustrating 
scenes  in  the  life  of  the  Virgin.  The  ceiling  beneath  the  organ  loft  is 
J»art  icularly  elaborate.  The  huge  stoup  and  pulpits  are  of  Puebla  onyx. 
I'lie  facade  is  elaborately  carved;  the  material  is  the  dark  local  stone 
nt  Pud, In,  with  strongly  contrasting  sculptures  in  white  marble.  The 
dome  i-  of  blue  and  yellow  tiles.  The  ch.  is  sometimes  called  La  Purisima 
Concepcion,  a name  given  it  in  1687. 

The  Church  of  San  Marcos,  a 17th  cent,  foundation  facing  the  Calle 
1 PI  C,  3),  has  a very  quaint  red  tile  front  with  square  tile  in- 

forming  pictures  of  santos  and  whatnot.  The  general  appearance 
of  the  facade  is  Flemish. 

The-  Church  of  Nuestra  Sehora  de  la  Soledad  (W.  of  the  Cathedral, 

PI  {_’•  0..  erected  in  1731 , and  consecrated  (to  Our  Lady  of  Solitude)  Mch. 
• 17  Id.  i<  notable  for  its  beautiful  dome,  which  is  covered  with  glazed 

til's  in  black  and  white.  On  the  facade  is  a sculptured  allegory  of  the 
A umphnn.  The  interior  is  chiefly  noteworthy  for  two  splendid  examples 
of  (’hurrigucresque  reredos,  whose  huge  proportions  entirely  fill  the 
transepts.  Overlooking  the  taberndculo  are  two  unique  celosias  which 
resemble  coat-of-mail  work.  The  two  large  allegorical  paintings  at  the 
r :md  I.  of  the  main  entrance  are  the  work  of  Pablo  Joseph  Talavera.  In 
i h»*  immediate  neighborhood  are  the  (uninteresting)  Church  of  San  Juan 
t in-  Calli  San  Gerdnimo);  and  the  old,  heavily  buttressed 
Church  of  San  Gcrbnimo  (PI.  I),  4),  a Hieronymite foundation  withamas- 
• ribbt  : dome.  A short  walk  toward  the  N.  brings  us  to  the 

Church  of  La  Concepcion  (PI.  D,  4),  which  faces  the  main  street  but 
which  is  entered  from  the  narrow  side  street  of  La  Concepcion.  The  blue 


57.  Route.  517 


Falls  of  Necaxa.  PUEBLA  STATE 

and  white  tiled  dome  is  a landmark.  The  two  allegorical  paintings 
which  flank  the  high  altar  are  attributed  to  Ribera.  One  square  further 
W.  (PI.  D,  4),  on  the  Calle  Sacristia  de  Capuchinas,  stands  the  Iglesia 
de  las  Capuchinas  with  a prominent  green  and  yellow  tiled  dome.  In 
the  ch.  is  a quaint  painting  of  the  Virgin  and  Child  with  real  gold  orna- 
ments appliqued  on  the  canvas.  The  huge 

Church  of  La  Santisima,  at  the  corner  of  the  Calles  Zaragoza  and  Fuen 
Leal  (PI.  C,  3),  contains  a number  of  faded  allegorical  paintings  of  no  great 
worth.  The  interior  decorations  are  new.  The  massive  doors  are  covered 
with  bronze  bosses. 

The  Convent  Church  of  Santa  Catarina  (PI.  C,  3)  is  almost  filled 
with  towering  ChurriguerGsque  altars  — of  which  there  are  8 — with  a 
host  of  dilapidated  paintings,  figurines  of  santos , etc.  The  narrow  single 
nave  seems  too  small  to  hold  these  huge  relics  of  former  grandeur,  in 
sharp  contrast  to  which  is  the  newly  decorated  high  altar,  with  its  pre- 
dominating white  and  gold.  Running  along  both  sides  of  the  nave  is  a 
curious  old  dado  of  blue  and  white  Puebla  tiles  in  Moresque  patterns. 
The  stuffy  interior  with  its  vestiges  of  former  grandeur  and  its  super- 
abundance of  roods  and  life-size  saints  — which  are  dusted  each  morn- 
ing and  wheeled  out  near  the  door  like  stuffed  bears  at  a furrier’s  — inter- 
ests but  oppresses  one  The  bizarre  polychrome  tower  and  dome  “are 
strikingly  good  examples  of  the  treatment  of  all  the  architectural  mem- 
bers with  a surface  of  glazed  tiles.  On  the  base  of  the  tower  yellow  glazed 
tiles  are  set  in  unglazed  ones  of  dull  red.  The  columns  and  pilasters  are 
yellow  and  olive  green.  Under  the  belfry  arch  the  decoration  is  dark 
and  light  grayish  blue,  orange  and  yellow,  purple  and  lilac,  and  light 
grayish  blue  between  yellow  and  orange.  The  ribs  are  brown.  The  ball 
is  yellow,  green,  and  blue  and  white.  The  pinnacles  are  yellow  and  white 
alternating  with  green.” 

The  Palacio  Municipal  (PI.  D,  3),  opposite  the  Cathedral,  is  a mod- 
ern building  in  the  Spanish  Renaissance  style  and  dates  from  1907.  It 
occupies  the  site  of  the  original  palacio,  erected  in  1536.  The  fine  salon 
on  the  second  floor  is  decorated  in  French  Renaissance.  The  allegorical 
paintings  on  the  ceiling  are  by  local  painters. 

The  State  of  Puebla,  one  of  the  largest  and  richest  of  the  Estados 
del  Centro  (so  called  from  a Carta  de  Puebla,  or  letter  of  authorization 
permitting  its  settlement),  with  a population  of  1,150,000  and  a super- 
ficial area  of  31,616  sqr.  kilom.,  occupies  a commanding  position  on  the 
great  Central  Plateau,  7,000  ft.  above  sea-level,  and  is  bounded  on  the 
N.  and  E.  by  the  state  of  Vera  Cruz,  on  the  S.  by  Oaxaca  and  Guerrero, 
and  on  the  W.  by  Morelos,  Mexico,  and  Hidalgo.  It  is  divided  into  21 
political  partidos  and  subdivided  into  municipalidad.es  ; the  principal 
towns  (aside  from  Puebla,  the  capital,  described  at  p.  509)  being  Atlixco 
(p.  521);  San  Pedro  Cholula  (p.  518);  Huejotzingo,  San  Pedro  de  los 
Llanos  and  San  Andres  Chalchicomula  (p.  496).  Between  the  mountains 
are  some  notable  barrancas,  chief  among  them  Zacatldn,  where  one  may 
find  the  products  of  the  temperate  and  torrid  zones  growing  within  a 
few  yards  of  each  other.  The  barranca  in  the  district  of  Huachinango,  • 
through  which  the  Necaxa  River  flows  and  forms  several  fine  cascades, 
is  particularly  noteworthy.  The  falls  1 of  this  river  (known  in  the  state 
of  VeraCruz  as  the  Tecalutla)  are  540  ft.  high. 

The  Climate  is  varied;  hot  in  the  south,  temperate  on  the  plateau, 
and  cold  in  the  mountains.  That  of  Puebla  City  is  much  like  that  of 
Mex.  City,  with  cool  nights,  warm  days,  and  slight  temperature  varia- 
tions. The  most  important  mountain  peaks  are  Popocatepetl,  Iztaccihuatl, 
and  the  Cofre  de  Perote.  A myriad  minor  peaks  dot  the  country,  and 
from  their  precipitous  sides  splendid  mountain  torrents  plunge  to  the 


1 Industrially  the  Falls  of  Necaxa  are  among  the  most  important  in  the 
Repub.  Here  the  Mexican  Light  and  Power  Co.  have  established  the  Ne- 
caxa Hydro-Electric  Power  Plant,  which  generates  some  90,000  horse- 
power of  electrical  energy  used  to  supply  light  and  power  (carried  over  a 
system  of  aerial  wires,  supported  by  several  thousand  steel  towers  each 
50  ft.  high)  to  Mexico  City  (96  M.),  and  to  the  mines  of  El  Oro,  75  M. 
away.  The  barranca  through  which  the  river  flows  is  wildly  picturesque. 


51 S Rte.  58.  EXCURSIONS  FROM  PUEBLA 


lowlands.  Fine  trees  clothe  the  mt.  slopes;  beginning  with  conifers  in 
the  higher  altitudes,  and  ending  with  mahogany  and  many  precious 
dye-woods  in  the  warm  valleys  at  their  base. 

Tlu>  Fauna  and  Flora  present  the  same  general  characteristics  of  those 
( >f  < .t  her  st  ates  of  the  Central  Plateau.  Agriculture  is  the  leading  industry : 
some  of  the  finest  wheat  lands  in  the  Repub.  lie  contiguous  to  Atlixco. 
Coffee,  sugar-cane  (there  are  upward  of  30  sugar-mills  in  the  state), 
vanilla,  tobacco,  and  many  fine  fruits  grow  in  profusion.  The  region  is 
highly  mineralized:  gold,  silver,  and  copper  mines  predominate.  Of  the 
latter  perhaps  the  most  celebrated  mines  are  near  Teziuilan  ( Hotel 
Barron,  $2.50  to  $5  Am.  PI.),  a picturesque  and  very  ancient  town  (pop. 
15,000)  near  the  border  line  between  Puebla  and  Vera  Cruz.  The  Onyx 
quarries  of  thestate  are  celebrated  throughout  the  Repub.  The  district  of 
Tecali  produces  a transparent  onyx  (comp.  p.  xcvi)  which  can  be  worked 
into  sheets  of  extreme  thinness:  various  souvenirs  are  made  from  it  — 
paper-weights,  knives,  fruit  groups,  penholders,  and  whatnot.  Thepalm- 
lraf  mats  ( pelates , Aztec =petlall)  made  in  and  near  Puebla  are  among  the 
bust  in  the  Repub.  The  mineral  Springs  of  Tehuacan  (p.  526)  are  cele- 
brated. 

58.  Excursions  from  Puebla. 

a.  To  the  Pyramid  of  Cholula  (8M.).  The  most  interest- 
ing spot  in  the  immediate  environs  and  the  only  one  to  which 
the  traveller  will  perhaps  be  willing  to  devote  much  time. 

By  taking  the  7.15  a.  m.  train  ( Division  de  Matcmoros  on  the  Ferrocarril 
Interorennico,  14  kilom.;  fare  1st  cl.  42  c.;  time  30  min.,  from  the  In- 
teroceanic  station ) the  traveller  will  have  ample  time  to  visit  the  pyramid 
and  the  town  and  return  by  the  tram-cars  (fare  25  c.)  of  the  Compafiia 
dr  Tranvias  Luz  y Fuerza  de  Puebla , which  leave  the  Cholula  plaza  at 
10.45  a.  m.,  and  reach  Puebla  about  noon.  (Terminus  near  the  Inter- 
oceanic  station.) 

The  rly.  train  runs  toward  the  N.  and  affords  inspiring  views 
of  Popocatepetl  and  Iztaccihuatl,  on  the  1.  The  valley  is  dotted 
with  ranches,  hamlets,  and  also  many  churches,  and  through 
the  lowlands  there  winds  a turgid  river  which  furnishes  power 
to  several  cotton  mills  on  its  bank.  Cholula  is  visible  in  the 
far  distance  (a  glistening  white  church  crowning  a high  hill) 
a-  soon  as  we  leave  Puebla.  3 M.  La  Union.  The  line  curves 
and  we  travel  eastward.  The  tile-covered  ch.  domes,  towers, 
and  lanterns  of  Puebla  glisten  brightly  in  the  sun.  The  valley 
land  is  sown  to  wheat.  The  ruins  of  an  old  aqueduct  are  seen 
on  the  1.  5 M.  Los  Arcos.  The  volcanoes,  which  dominate 
the  plain  like  giant  sentinels,  seem  surprisingly  near.  The  view 
of  Popo  is  unobstructed  and  the  eye  embraces  the  great  mt. 
from  the  swelling  base  to  the  snow-clad  cone. 

S M . Cholula.  The  town  spreads  out  back  of  the  rly.  station,  while 
tel.  rises  the  ancient  hill.  Time  can  be  saved  by  inspect- 
ing t his  first.  (Albeit  the  trams  pass  the  station  they  are  apt  to  be  crowded, 
"id  the  traveller  will  only  be  sure  of  a seat  when  taking  the  car  at  the 
terminus  beyond  the  plaza.)  We  proceed  for  a few  hundred  yards  along 
trai  . turn  to  the  1.  and  begin  the  ascent  of  the  pyramid  (p.  519). 
The  retrospective  view  as  we  ascend  is  magnificent.  The  valley  round- 
;d"*ut  i'  very  fertile  and  is  under  high  cultivation.  The  principal  feature 
in  the 

Church  at  the  Summit  is  a small  crowned  figurine  of  the  Virgen  de 
l Urmrd\o8 . on  the  high  altar.  Conspicuous  objects  are  the  votive 
offerings  of  alleged  ailing  ones  who  have  been  miraculously  cured  by  the 


History. 


CHOLULA 


58.  Route.  519 


special  intervention  of  the  Virgin.  To  the  native  mind  the  next  most 
valuable  possessions  are  the  four,  half  life-size  polychrome  figures  (in 
the  newly  decorated  camarin , at  the  rear  of  the  apse)  of  San  Alfonso 
Maria  de  Ligorio,  S.  Buenaventura , S.  Bernardo  and  S.  Bernardino  de 
Sena.  (If  the  camarin  is  locked  call  the  sacristan.  A fee,  not  obligatory, 
of  25  c.  is  ample.)  The  view  from  the  summit  of  the  hill  is  very  fine.  The 
hill  itself  is  dilapidated,  and  the  unkempt  stairs  are  the  haunt  of  dogs, 
lizards,  and  beggars.  The  time-eroded  ruins  of  other  pyramids  are  fea- 
tures in  the  landscape.  About  £ M.  to  the  N.-W.  are  seen  the  many  squat 
domes  of  the  ancient 

Franciscan  Church  of  San  Gabriel,  which  we  reach  by  following  the 
street  which  leads  from  the  rly.  station  to  the  plaza , then  turning  to 
the  r.  The  ch.  stands  back  in  a huge  yard  which  faces  the  plaza  on  the 
E.  It  is  very  large,  “ and  the  extent  of  the  population  of  Cholula  in  the 
early  days  is  indicated  by  the  fact  that  the  enormous  Capilla  Real  was 
built  for  ‘overflow’  purposes.  It  is  exceedingly  plain  in  its  austere 
lines,  and  bears  evidence  of  the  Gothic  influences  that  were  strong  in  the 
early  period  of  Spanish-colonial  work.  The  apse,  in  particular,  is  of 
Gothic  character.”  Above  the  main  entrance  is  the  inscription,  Iglesia 
Lateranensis.  The  four  large  paintings  at  the  r.  and  1.  of  the  high 
altar,  representing  scenes  in  the  life  of  San  Francisco,  are  by  Isauro  G. 
Cervantes,  and  date  from  1906.  The  ribbed  vaulting  of  the  huge  single 
nave  is  an  interesting  specimen  of  early  ecclesiastical  work.  At  the  r. 
of  the  entrance  is  a Descent  from  the  Cross,  of  good  color.  Date  and 
painter  unknown.  None  of  the  several  paintings  in  the  sacristy  are  worth 
looking  at.  The  14  pictures  representing  the  Stations  of  the  Cross  are 
chromos.  The  Spanish  inscriptions  near  the  main  entrance  refer  to  the 
celebration  of  the  third  centenary  (Oct.  28,  1894)  of  the  placing  in  the  ch. 
of  Nuestra  Sehora  de  los  Remedios  the  so-called  miraculous  image  of  that 
santa,  and  to  the  restoration,  in  1897,  of  the  Franciscan  ch.  The  old 
doors  are  unusually  massive  and  are  heavy  with  iron  bosses.  A side  view 
of  the  ch.  with  its  massive  buttresses,  of  the  polychrome  tiled  dome  and 
the  many  small  domes  of  the  adjoining  chapel,  is  interesting. 

The  Capilla  Real,  known  also  as  the  C.  de  los  Naturales  (chapel  of 
the  natives)  and  as  the  C.  de  Guadalupe,  flanking  the  main  ch.  on  the  S., 
is  one  of  the  most  notable  ecclesiastical  structures  in  Cholula.  Mr.  Bax- 
ter believes  that  its  style  was  suggested  by  the  great  Mosque  of  Cordova 
(Spain).  The  vaulted  roof,  which  is  square  in  plan,  is  supported  by  64 
large  columns,  which  form  seven  naves  in  turn  surmounted  by  47  domes 
or  bovedas.  The  latter  are  comparatively  modern,  as  the  original  struc- 
ture, which  .perhaps  dated  from  the  opening  years  of  the  17th  cent., 
fell  down  in  the  night  after  its  dedication.  The  enormous,  bare  interior 
possesses  fine  acoustic  properties.  A number  of  mediocre  paintings  hang 
on  the  walls;  among  them  four  large  pictures  depicting  the  Apparition 
of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  to  Juan  Diego.  The  huge,  carved  stone  stoup 
is  of  undoubted  antiquity.  (The  care-taker  of  the  chapel  dwells  in  the 
rear,  and  as  the  chapel  doors  are  generally  locked,  the  traveller  can  at- 
tract attention  by  pounding  on  the  central  door.)  Between  the  Capilla 
and  the  main  ch.  is  a closed  chapel  called  the  Tercer  Orden  de  San  Fran- 
chisee>,  which  contains  nothing  to  interest  the  visitor. 

History.  The  history  of  Cholula  centres  about  the  great  pyramid,  the 
date  of  the  erection  of  which  (says  Prescott)  is  unknown,  for  it  was 
found  there  when  the  Aztecs  entered  on  the  plateau.  ‘‘It  had  the  form 
common  to  the  Mexican  teocallis,  that  of  a truncated  pyramid,  with 
its  four  sides  facing  the  cardinal  points,  and  divided  into  the  same  num- 
ber of  terraces.  Its  original  outlines,  however,  have  been  effaced  by  the 
action  of  time  and  of  the  elements,  while  the  growth  of  shrubs  and  wild 
flowers,  which  have  mantled  over  its  surface,  give  it  the  appearance  of 
one  of  those  symmetrical  elevations  thrown  up  by  the  caprice  of  nature 
rather  than  by  the  industry  of  man.  It  was  here  that  the  god  Quetzalcoatl 
(p.  304)  paused  in  his  passage  to  the  coast,  and  passed  20  years  in  teach- 
ing the  Toltec  inhabitants  the  arts  of  civilization.  It  was  in  honor  of  this 
benevolent  deity  that  the  stupendous  mound  was  erected,  on  which  the 
traveller  still  gazes  as  the  most  colossal  fabric  in  New  Spain,  rivalling  in 
dimensions,  and  somewhat  in  form,  the  pyramidal  structures  of  ancient 


PYRAMID  OF  CHOLULA 


520  Rtc.  58. 

I '.gypt.  The  hill  was  surmounted  by  a sumptuous  edifice  in  which  w7as  the 
image  of  this  mystic  ‘god  of  the  air’  wTith  ebon  features,  unlike  the  fair 
complexion  which  he  bore  upon  earth,  wearing  a mitre  on  his  head 
waving  with  plumes  -of  fire,  with  a resplendent  collar  of  gold  round  his 
neck,  pendants  of  mosaic  turquois  in  his  ears,  a jewelled  sceptre  in  one 
hand,  and  a shield  curiously  painted,  the  emblem  of  his  rule  over  the 
winds,  in  the  other.  The  sanctity  of  the  place,  hallowed  by  hoary  tradi- 
tion, and  the  magnificence  of  the  temple  and  its  services,  made  it  an 
object  of  veneration  throughout  the  land,  and  pilgrims  from  the  farthest 
corner  of  Andhuac  came  to  offer  up  their  devotions  at  the  shrine  of 
Quetzalcoatl.  Cholida  was,  in  short,  -what  Mecca  is  to  the  Mahometans 
or  Jerusalem  among  Christians:  it  was  the  Holy  City  of  Anahuac. 

“The  religious  rites  were  not  performed,  however,  in  the  pure  spirit 
originally  prescribed  by  its  tutelary  deity.  His  altars,  as  well  as  those  of 
the  numerous  Aztec  gods,  were  stained  with  human  blood;  and  6,000 
victims  are  said  to  have  been  annually  offered  up  at  their  sanguinary 
shrines.  The  great  number  of  these  may  be  estimated  from  the  declara- 
tion of  Cortes  that  he  counted  400  towers  in  the  city;  yet  no  temple  had 
more  than  two,  many  only  one.  High  above  the  rest  rose  the  ‘pyramid 
of  Cholula,’  with  its  undying  fires  flinging  their  radiance  far  and  wide  over 
the  capital,  and  proclaiming  to  the  nations  that  there  was  the  mystic 
worship  of  the  good  deity  who  was  one  day  to  return  and  resume  his 
empire  over  the  land.  Nothing  could  be  more  grand  than  the  view  which 
met  the  eye  from  the  area  on  the  truncated  summit  of  the  pyramid, 
'toward  the  W.  stretched  that  bold  barrier  of  porphyritic  rock  which 
Nature  had  reared  around  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  w7ith  the  huge  Popocate- 
petl and  Iztaccihuatl  standing  like  two  colossal  sentinels  to  guard  the 
entrance  to  the  enchanted  region.  Far  awra}7  to  the  E.  was  seen  the  conical 
head  of  Orizaba  soaring  high  into  the  clouds,  and  nearer,  the  barren 
though  beautifully  shaped  Sierra  de  la  Malinche , throwing  its  broad 
shadows  oyer  the  plains  of  Tlaxcala.  Three  of  these  are  volcanoes  higher 
than  the  highest  mountain-peak  in  Europe,  and  shrouded  in  snow7s  which 
never  melt  under  the  fierce  sun  of  the  tropics.  At  the  foot  of  the  spectator 
lay  the  sacred  city  of  Cholula,  with  its  bright  towers  and  pinnacles  spark- 
ling in  the  sun,  reposing  amidst  gardens  and  verdant  groves,  which  then 
thickly  studded  the  environs  of  the  capital.  Such  was  the  magnificent 
pr<  -pect  which  met  the  gaze  of  the  conquerors,  and  may  still,  with  slight 
change,  meet  that  of  the  modern  traveller,  as  from  the  platform  of  the 
great  pyramid  his  eye  wanders  over  the  fairest  portion  of  the  beautiful 
plateau  of  Puetda .” 

“When  the  Spanish  conquerors  reached  this  point  on  the  march  to 
Mexico  [says  Mr.  Baxter } » they  found  a large  native  city  built  around  the 
pyramid,  and  for  some  time  Cholida  remained  one  of  the  chief  centres  of 
population  in  New7  Spain.”  It  was  claimed  by  Cortes  that  the  city  con- 
t lined  20,000  houses  within  the  w7alls,  and  as  many  more  in  the  environs. 
It  was  said  to  be  of  great  antiquity,  and  Indian  history  recorded  that  it 
wa  founded  by  the  primitive  races  wrho  overspread  the  land  before  the 
advent  of  the  Aztecs.  During  the  Aztec  Confederacy  it  was  one  of  the 
most  populous  and  flourishing  cities  in  the  country,  and  w7as  the  great 
commercial  emporium  of  the  Central  Plateau.  The  inhabitants  excelled 
in  various  mechanical  arts,  especially  that  of  working  in  metals,  the 
manufacture  of  cotton  and  agave  cloths,  and  of  a delicate  kind  of  pottery, 
rivalling,  it  is  said,  that  of  Florence  in  beauty.  Though  conspicuous  for 
its  refinement  the  capital  w7as  even  more  venerated  for  the  religious 
traditions  which  invested  it.  It  was  the  scene,  in  1519,  of  a terrific  battle 
between  the  Conquistadores  and  the  Cholulans,  in  which  between  three 
and  six  thousand  of  the  latter  wrere  slain.  This  battle  is  referred  to  by 
historians  and  bv  the  Indians  as  the  ‘‘massacre  of  Cholula.”  (For  a 
det  ruled  description  consult  Prescott’s  Conquest  of  Mexico , vol.  ii,  cap. 
vii,  n.  21.) 

“in  due  course  Puebla,  only  8 miles  awav,  became  a great  city  and 
drew  to  itself  nearly  all  the  inhabitants  of  Cholula,  wrhich  to-dav  looks 
as  if  it  must  have  one  church  for  at  least  every  one  hundred  inhabitants 

1 Spanish-Colonial  Architecture  in  Mexico , by  Sylvester  Baxter. 


PUEBLA  TO  ATLIXCO  58.  Rte.  521 


— the  domes  and  towers  rising  imposingly  on  every  hand  out  of  the 
rectangular  mesh  of  streets  that  spread  away  before  the  beholder  who 
looks  down  on  the  place  from  the  pyramid  summit. 

“This  pyramid,  though  a pre-Columbian  structure,  has  an  interest  for 
the  present  as  a structural  site  for  one  of  the  most  notable  of  the  hill-top 
pilgrimage  temples  that  are  commonly  found  crowning  an  eminence  in 
the  neighborhood  of  all  considerable  populations  in  the  country.  This 
combination  of  the  colossal  remains  of  indigenous  religious  architecture 
with  an  interesting  type  of  Spanish-Colonial  work  is  unique,  the  Pagan 
ruin  making  a formal  base  for  the  Christian  temple,  the  Church  of 
Nuestra  Senora  de  los  Remedios.  With  its  magnificent  site,  its  stately 
proportions,  and  its  beautiful  great  dome  resplendently  glittering,  cov- 
ered with  glazed  tiles  (green,  white,  and  yellow)  the  scenic  effect  is  some- 
thing indescribably  superb.  Yet  the  church  has  been  so  radically  restored, 
both  without  and  within,  that  it  has  been  robbed  of  all  charm  beyond 
that  of  the  spectacular  ensemble,  which  must  always  continue  very  great. 
The  pyramid  itself  — as  measured  by  the  eminent  archaeologist,  Mr. 
Adolf  F.  Bandelier,  and  including  the  irregular  windings  that  probably 
are  largely,  if  not  entirely  due  to  the  ruinous  condition  of  the  structure 
and  its  consequent  falling  away  into  what  at  first  seems  to  be  an  almost 
shapeless  mound  of  earth  — has  the  following  dimensions:  N.  side  1,000 
ft.;  E.  side  1,026;  S.  side  833;  W.  side  1,000.  The  lines  of  the  several  ter- 
races are  clearly  discernible  and  suggest  how  imposing  the  structure 
must  have  been  in  the  old  times  when  its  form  remained  perfect.  A long 
winding  inclined  way  of  hewn  stone,  14  ft.  wide,  constructed  by  the 
Spaniards,  is  the  present  means  of  ascent  to  the  summit,  where  the 
temple  stands  in  the  midst  of  a plateau  about  203  ft.  from  E.  to  W.,  and 
144  ft.  from  N.  to  S.  The  architectural  effect  of  this  commanding  space 
about  the  church,  surrounded  by  a handsome  balustrade  of  stone,  is 
extraordinarily  good  even  in  its  present  dilapidated  condition.  When 
carefully  maintained  it  must  have  been  a superb  example  of  formal 
design  in  art  out  of  doors.” 

On  certain  days  the  Cholula  market,  which  flanks  the 
large  tree-shaded  plaza , is  very  animated.  Indian  women, 
descendants  of  the  Cholultecs  of  old,  bring  many  home-made 
articles  and  fresh  vegetables  (chief  among  the  latter  some  fine 
tomatoes  and  sturdy  onions)  here  for  sale  and  establish  their 
temporary  stalls  in  or  near  the  building.  There  are  a number 
of  minor  churches  in  Cholula , but  they  will  not  repay  the  trav- 
eller for  the  time  spent  in  visiting  them.  Returning  from  Cho- 
lula by  the  tram-line  we  cross  a fertile  country,  hilly  in  places. 
Oyer  these  elevations  the  straining  mules  drag  the  loaded  cars 
with  great  difficulty.  One  or  two  old  Spanish  bridges,  with 
picturesque  gateways,  are  passed  on  the  homeward  trip. 

h.  To  Atlixco.  After  reading  the  following  delightful  de- 
scription (by  Mr.  Frederic  R.  Guernsey)  of  a journey  from 
Puebla  to  Atlixco , most  travellers  will  wish  to  add  this  trip  to 
their  itinerary.  (Trains  of  the  Interoceanic  rly. ; same  line  that 
passes  through  Cholula.  Time  about  2 hrs.  Fare,  see  p.  xxxi. 
The  traveller  may  leave  Puebla  in  the  a.  m.  and  return  by  an 
afternoon  train.  The  big  tree  of  Atlixco , a giant  Ahuehuete 
almost  as  large  as  the  great  tree  of  Tule  (p.  536),  is  one  of  the 
attractions  of  the  town.) 

“The  new  section  of  the  Interoceanic  Railway,  connecting  Cuautla 
with  the  old  Matamoros  line  from  Puebla , offers  to  travellers  many  charms 
of  scenery,  and  delightful  views  of  the  tierra  caliente , always  attractive 
to  dwellers  on  the  cool  tableland. 


Rte . 58. 


PUEBLA  TO  ATLIXCO 


“It  is  all  down  grade,  cuesta  abajo,  from  Cvautla  to  the  much  hotter 
country  around  Atencingo , Chietla,  and  the  famous  sugar  country  where 
ancient  Matamoros  reclines,  a sultana,  beneath  a sky  ardent  and  radiant 
with  the  sun  of  the  true  tropics.  . . . 

The  country,  agriculturally,  is  very  old,  the  plantations  of  cane 
dating  back  to  the  16th  century.  Miles  on  miles  of  vividly  green  cane- 
fields,  other  miles  of  Indian  corn  in  serried  ranks  interminable:  here  and 
there  clumps  of  noble  palms,  and  also  of  great  organ  cacti,  that  vegetable 
marvel. 

“ Near  the  station  of  Pastor  are  enormous  rock  formations  rising  to  a 
great  height  from  the  flat  country;  one  in  particular  resembles  so  closely 
a pyramid  that  it  only  needs  that  a guide  book  shall  say  so  to  make  the 
tourist  believe  that  here,  at  last,  on  Mexican  soil,  is  a true  pyramid.  In 
t he  afternoon  air,  all  vibrating  with  the  heat,  the  purple  bulk  of  the  gigan- 
tic rock  seems  to  tremble  on  its  base.  It  is  a real,  natural  wonder. 

“Down,  and  ever  down,  glides  the  train  over  the  smooth  roadbed, 
startling  myriads  of  white  or  yellow  butterflies  which  rise  in  clouds  over 
fields  the  color  of  burnt  orange,  such  is  the  mass  of  flowers  of  that  now 
fashionable  hue.  The  tawny  orange  tint  of  the  foreground  contrasts 
artistically  with  the  background  of  bright-green  cane,  while  far  away 
loom  up  the  deep  blue  mountains  like  the  hills  of  Paradise.  Here,  in  the 
early  Mexican  autumn,  is  the  vast  panorama,  and  feast  of  color  which 
Nature,  the  mighty  and  always  audacious  artist,  flings,  rich  and  palpitat- 
ing. on  her  infinite  canvas.  What  gradations  of  blue  in  the  sky  and  on  the 
hills,  what  shades  of  restful  green,  and  what  pomp  and  glory  of  yellow! 

You  involuntarily  exclaim:  ‘How  beautiful  is  the  Mexican  land!’ 
Lavish  is  the  color-feast,  and  if  man,  prosaically  intent  on  his  daily  busi- 
n(  'S  fails  properly  to  appreciate  the  glories  of  unsurpassed  landscapes, 
be  sure  the  high  gods  revel  in  it  all. 

“The  human  element  is  present — the  peons,  brown  and  patient, 
t iiling  in  the  fields:  the  white  man  on  his  horse,  perhaps  overseer,  admin- 
i -trad nr  or  feudal  lord  of  the  soil:  the  active,  bustling  railway  men,  and 
that  inevitable  company  of  station-platform  commentators  who,  the 
civilized  world  over,  stand  and  utter  their  inanities,  washed-out  jokes 
and  banal  observations  whenever  the  locomotive  draws  up  with  its  load 
Glaciervilie,  Alaska;  Chubuk,  YTucatan;  Upper  Tooting, 
England,  or  Chietla,  Mexico. 

“ Venders  of  comestibles  appear,  as  by  enchantment,  in  the  most 
unlikely  places.  Men  burned  to  a deep  bronze  come  riding  up  to  the 
station  and  soon  are  seen  drinking,  with  grateful  appreciation,  from  cool 
buttles  full  of  red  grosella,  the  local  ‘fizz’  water,  sold  by  the  energetic 
tr. fin-boy,  who,  dnv  by  day,  travels  through  this  magic  land,  gorgeous  in 
eoloring.  and.  healthily  unconscious  of  it,  peddles  newspapers,  ‘ aguas 
gns,  ms'  fruit,  chicle-gum,  and  Spanish  novels. 

livery  where  the  ‘ ginetc,'  the  horseman  of  Mexico:  everywhere  the 
distant  purple  mountains,  the  deep  blue  of  the  cloud-flecked  sky,  and, 
for  human  chorus,  the  soft  voices  of  the  people  of  the  hot-country.  It  is 
I •:  t 'I  in  the  afternoon,  and  we  have  reached  Matamoros,  where,  so  great 
i-  the  heat,  the  town  seems  to  waver  before  one’s  gaze.  Palms  and  yet 
nv  * r • p.-din*.  t ime-stained  church  towers,  domes  that  glitter  and  reverber- 
'•  tie  white  rays  of  the  sun:  patios  where  fountains  perpetually  sing 
’ i 1 the  enclosed  exuberance  of  tropical  vegetation,  subdued  to  house- 
hold decoration. 

“Evidences  of  the  prosperous  sugar  industry  abound;  the  hacienda 
buil  i ss  are  extensive  and  numerous.  Despite  the  climate,  man  has 
ret  lined  sufficient  vigor  to  work,  and  so,  amid  the  bounty  of  nature,  has 
prospered. 

The  train  here  begins  to  climb  up  from  tierra  caliente  to  tierra  tern- 
phla,  and  we  pass  oddly  named  stations  — Tatetla,  Tepejojumba , Cham - 
p a etc.  Now  the  vegetation  becomes  less  luxuriant,  less  riotously 
1 ■ ifir,  yet  the  orange,  the  lemon,  coffee,  etc.,  persist,  not  struggling 
witl;  i chilled  and  niggard  soil,  but  with  the  genial  permission  of  kindly 
nature. 

“Up.  and  ever  up,  till  the  vast,  noble,  and  opulent  Valley  of  Atlixco 
is  reached,  a famous  maize  and  wheat  country,  with  many  a huge  and 


PUEBLA  TO  OAXACA  CITY  59.  Rte.  523 


stately  hacienda  house,  lordly  in  its  proportions,  and  giving  proof  pal- 
pable of  the  great  wealth  accumulated  by  the  seigniorial  owners  of  the 
soil.  Water  abounds  in  this  fortunate  valley  — water  everywhere,  rush- 
ing down  the  channels  carved  out  for  it  centuries  ago,  for  the  irrigation 
system  here  was  the  work  of  the  early  Spaniards.  There  is  wealth  po- 
tential and  actual  in  fertile  soil  and  abounding  water.  So  here  are  lux- 
ury, culture,  and  all  that  makes  for  the  flowering  of  human  life,  in  the 
hacienda  house.  The  human  plant  thrives  here  as  well  as  wheat  and 
maize. 

“ Afar  off,  to  the  left,  the  towers  and  domes  of  a highly-placed  city 
appear,  ancient  Atlixco , the  seat  of  human  settlement  long  before  the 
Spaniards  came.  Note  the  curious  pyramidal  cerrito  of  San  Miguel  be- 
hind the  little  city.  The  picture  with  the  movement  of  the  train,  ad- 
vances to  meet  you.  It  is  very  unique,  very  strange,  this  city  dating 
back,  as  a home  of  white  men,  to  the  16th  century,  a place  wholly  Span- 
ish in  its  architectural  suggestion. 

“Up  into  the  city  by  tranvia ; the  place,  most  surprisingly,  gains  in 
picturesqueness  by  closer  view.  Surely  an  exception  to  the  rule  that 
distance  lends  enchantment,  etc.  We  lodge  at  La  Concordia  Hotel,  kept 
by  a Don  Ramon , with  a semi-German  restaurant  attached.  Big  and 
bien  ventilado  is  the  hotel,  and  soon  to  undergo  reforms  and  improve- 
ments. 

“ Atlixco  means  ‘the  Place  above  the  Waters,’  and  here  is  water  in 
abundance,  as  in  Rome  and  Havana.  Water  everywhere,  and  notably 
gushing  from  a mediaeval  fountain  in  front  of  the  hotel.  Population  about 
16,000,  the  people  friendly,  servicial , or  obliging,  and  the  place  governed 
admirably  well  by  Don  Ignacio  Machorro,  jefe  'politico , who  banishes 
beggars,  tramps  and  thieves,  and  who  carries  a ‘big  stick’  for  evildoers. 
The  local  ratero  goes  to  Yucatan  or  Valle  Nacional;  the  loafer  must  find 
work  or  emigrate,  and  so  there  is  peace,  and  you  need  not  watch  your 
pockets  or  luggage. 

“Climate  is  a golden  mean  between  the  heat  of  Cuautla  and  the  cool- 
ness of  Puebla.  It  is  a climate  muy  parejo,  or  even,  all  the  year  round. 
The  air  has  a delicious  quality  and  yet  not  debilitating.  Physicians  in 
this  region  recommend  it,  and  when  Atlixco  comes  to  be  better  known 
it  will  need  a half-dozen  hotels. 

“In  the  orchards  of  the  outskirts  one  finds  coffee  trees,  mangoes, 
oranges  and  limes.  The  little  lanes  are  shady,  and  one  may  ride  through 
them  at  midday,  quite  cool.  The  time  will  come  when  people  from  the 
City  of  Mexico  will  buy  up  the  little  orange  and  coffee  places  of  the  poor 
people  here,  and  build  themselves  winter  villas.  Atlixco  has  an  elevation 
of  1,686  meters  as  compared  with  the  2,240  of  the  City  of  Mexico,  yet  here 
grows  coffee  and  here  flourishes  the  orange. 

“Curious  and  peeping  ‘Old  Popo’  looks  down  into  the  streets  of  At- 
lixco from  behind  the  cerrito  of  San  Miguel  topped  by  a little  white  chapel. 
In  all  this  region  one  cannot  escape  Popo.  The  volcano  sometimes  seems 
five  miles  away;  it  is,  I believe,  some  sixteen  miles. 

“ Atlixco  is  in  the  modern  movement.  It  is  no  dead-and-alive  town 
languidly  dreaming  the  dream  of  the  Middle  Ages.  And  yet  a most  ar- 
tistic and  satisfying  little  city,  full  of  color  and  of  horsemen  in  charro 
dress,  and,  late  at  night,  one  is  awakened  by  the  revelers  returning  from 
some  baile  de  confianza,  or  elegante , as  often  happens.  Feminine  Atlixco 
is  apparently  always  dancing.  A cheerful  place,  and  kindly  people. 
Puebla  is  only  two  hours  up  the  railway,  and  so  the  City  of  Mexico  is  but 
seven  and  a half  hours  away.  Here  is  a coming  winter  resort,  picturesque, 
mild  of  climate,  and  near  by  healing  waters.’’ 

The  journey  from  Puebla  via  Tehuacan  to  Oaxaca  City, 
in  the  picturesque  State  of  Oaxaca,  thence  to  the  big  tree  of 
Tule,  one  of  the  largest  in  the  Americas  if  not  in  the  world, 
and  onward  to  the  Ruins  of  Mitla,  which  rank  among  the 
most  interesting  of  the  many  ruins  in  the  Mexican  Republic, 
is  described  on  the  following  pages.  Route  59. 


524  Rte.  59.  PUEBLA  TO  OAXACA  AND  MITLA 


59.  From  Puebla  via  Tehuacan  to  Oaxaca  City 
( thence  to  the  Big  Tree  of  Tule,  and  the  Ruins  of 

Mitla). 

From  Puebla  to  Oaxaca,  228  M.,  Ferrocarril  Mexicano  del  Sur.  Daily 

trains  in  about  12  hrs.  For  fare,  see  p.  xxxi.  Excursions  are  frequently  run 
(o  Oaxaca  and  the  Mitla  Ruins ) at  reduced  rates;  consult  the  newspapers 
for  detail.  Also  the  Guia  Oficial , and  the  company  folders.  — For  the  con- 
venience of  through  passengers  (from  Mexico  City)  trains  of  the  Mexican 
Southern  Illy,  sometimes  leave  from  the  Interoceanic  Rly.  Station,  at 
Puebla. 

The  journey  from  Puebla  to  Oaxaca  is  picturesque  and  interesting 
with  inspiring  mountain  scenery,  beautiful  valleys  sprinkled  with  old 
Spanish  churches,  bridges  and  colonial  relics,  and  magnificent  snow- 
crowned  volcanoes  nearly  always  in  view.  Best  views  from  the  left  side 
of  the  train.  The  line  sweeps  down  from  a high  point  on  the  Mexican 
Plateau,  to  the  tropical  zone,  then  back  through  many  winding  canons 
(over  4\%  grades)  to  the  tropical  highlands;  traversing  fields  of  ripen- 
ing sugar-cane,  coffee-estates,  mts.  and  plains,  and  passing  picturesque 
hamlets.  The  entire  region  is  fraught  with  memories  of  the  Spanish 
cor,  ;uistadores,  and  many  of  the  customs  of  the  simple  inhabitants  are 
those  that  were  in  vogue  when  Hernan  Cortes  and  his  bold  raiders  first 
entered  the  land.  (The  Mex.  So.  is  operated  by  the  Natl.  Rlys.  of  Mex.) 

Puebla,  see  p.  508.  The  train  runs  toward  the  S.-E.,  across 
a fairly  level  country  which  slopes  gently  upward.  Numerous 
arroyos  — the  beds  of  rushing  torrents  during  the  rainy  season 
— intersect  the  plains,  which  are  fertile  and  produce  several 
crops  yearly  of  wheat,  corn  and  alfalfa.  The  views  of  Popo 
and  its  mate  on  one  side,  and  the  towering  Malintzi  on  the 
other,  are  grand.  The  retrospective  view  of  Puebla  de  los 
Angeles,  with  its  host  of  tiled  church-domes  glistening  in  the 
sun,  is  very  attractive.  The  remains  of  many  old  Spanish 
masonry  bridges  are  seen.  The  white-walled  haciendas  bear 
a look  of  thrift  and  comfort.  8 M.  Chachapa  (7,413  ft.).  The 
picturesque  old  yellow  ch.  which  surmounts  the  hill  on  the  1. 
ha ' a tiled  Mudijar  dome  that  smacks  strongly  of  Persian  in- 
fluence. This  is  the  forerunner  of  many  churches  that  dot  the 
country,  and  advertise,  by  their  polychrome  tiled  towers  and 
domes,  the  20  or  more  potteries  which  the  Dominican  friars 
cst  a bl  i s hc<  1 i n and  near  Puebla  about  the  year  1 600.  Comp.  p.  lxx. 

11  M.  Amozoc  (7,593  ft.),  the  highest  point  on  the  line,  is  a 
poor  town  with  several  small  churches  in  a highly  cultivated 
region.  The  hot  milk  sold  by  the  Indian  women  at  the  station 
i'  apt  to  be  mixed  with  the  excellent  mt.  water  with  which  the 
region  is  favored.  The  wool  from  the  many  sheep  which  browse 
in  the  neighborhood  is  made  into  the  bright-hued  sarapes  and 
blankets  used  by  the  natives.  The  arroyos  with  which  the 
country  is  furrowed  are  fringed  with  the  spiky  plants  of  the 
p d//uc-producing maguey  (p.lxxxiii).  The  ploughs  usedbythe 
natives  are  of  the  type  popular  in  Egypt  thousands  of  years 
ago.  16  M.  Santa  Rosa  (7,521  ft.).  A fine  plain  stretches  away 
from  the  station.  A few  friable  red  tiles  for  roofs  are  made  in 
the  neighborhood.  ISM.  Tres  Jagueyes  (7,530  ft.)  with  several 
native  brick-kilns.  A fine  range  of  hills  marks  the  horizon  on 


TEPEACA  59.  Route.  525 

the  1.  We  cross  a broad  plain,  with  rich  black  soil,  given  over 
to  the  cultivation  of  maguey  plants. 

23  M.  Tepeaca  (7,353  ft.)  A straggling  town  in  the  centre  of  Maguey- 
ales.  Of  the  half-dozen  or  more  churches  visible  from  the  train,  the  huge 
square  one  (near  the  centre  of  the  town)  is  the  most  picturesque.  It  is 
in  the  Early  Franciscan  Style  (comp.  p.  cxxix) , and  is  said  to  have  been 
erected  by  the  order  of  Cortes,  about  1530.  The  pointed  turrets  show 
traces  of  Gothic  influence.  The  interior  contains  nothing  that  would 
interest  the  traveller.  Tamales  are  a specialty  with  the  Indian  women 
who  sell  comestibles  at  the  station.  In  the  outskirts  of  the  town  are  some 
ruinous  Spanish  bridges  and  the  remains  of  an  old  military  highway, 
made  soon  after  the  Coriquest.  As  we  proceed  southward  the  valley 
broadens  and  the  twin  volcanoes  sentinel  it.  Scrub  trees  become  a part 
of  the  landscape  view.  For  some  distance  the  line  sweeps  across  the 
valley,  then  it  enters  an  arid,  rocky,  hilly  region.  The  few  patches  of 
arable  land  between  the  hills  are  sown  to  wheat.  The  rails  curve  round 
to  the  1.  and  we  descend  to  lower  levels.  The  landscape  improves  and 
the  view  broadens.  Above  the  tops  of  the  eucalyptus  and  Peruvian  pep- 
per-trees rise  many  ch.  spires  and  domes.  Many  aloes  remain  untapped 
(p.  lxxxiii)  hereabout,  and  the  tall,  flowering  stalks  resemble  graceful 
young  trees.  Corn  thrives  at  the  lower  level,  and  broad  milpas  are  fea- 
tures of  the  landscape. 

34  M.  Rosendo  Marquez  (6,737  ft.),  in  a tree-dotted  valley. 
Point  of  departure  for  the  Ferrocarril  de  San  Marcos  a Huajua - 
pam  de  Leon , which  runs  hence  through  several  small  and 
uninteresting  towns  to  75  K.  Mucio  Martinez.  Another  line 
(Linea  de  Acatzingo)  runs  to  the  near-by  town  hr.)  of  Acat - 
zingo. 

The  fine  Pico  de  Orizaba  is  now  a conspicuous  and  inspiring 
feature  in  the  landscape.  The  trend  of  the  line  is  steadily 
downward,  and  the  air  becomes  warmer.  40  M.  Tecama - 
chalco  (6,602  ft.),  at  the  base  of  a hill  (cab  to  the  town  25  c.)  to 
the  1.  of  the  station.  Of  the  several  churches,  the  one  nearest 
the  station  is  the  most  interesting,  — a relic  of  Spanish  colonial 
days.  The  line  curves  to  the  r.  and  traverses  a pretty  valley 
green  with  corn,  wheat  and  maguey.  Tall  hills  delimn  the 
horizon  on  the  r.  and  1.  48  M.  Las  Animas  (6,563  ft.).  — 54  M. 
Tlacotepec  (6,469  ft.)  in  a region  of  palmettos,  nopal,  organ  and 
candelabra  cacti  (p.  lxxxi) . The  small  town  crouches  behind  the 
hill  (surmounted  by  a church)  at  the  r.  The  view  recalls  cer- 
tain bits  of  Tuscany.  We  continue  toward  the  S.  across  a dry 
valley  hemmed  in  by  hills  and  dotted  with  scrub  trees.  Far  to 
the  1.  is  descried  an  ancient  ch.  of  cathedral-like  proportions, 
evidently  standing  alone  on  the  broad  plain.  The  tall  yuccas 
which  rise  from  the  straggling  forest  of  mesquite  are  of  unusual 
size.  Deep,  rocky  valleys  choked  with  cacti,  flocks  of  goats 
tended  by  ragged  goatherds,  dry  arroyos  flanked  by  tall  wil- 
lows, and  occasional  milpas  artificially  irrigated  are  features 
of  the  country.  The  white  cone  of  Orizaba  towers  high  above 
the  environing  hills.  We  pass  the  nondescript  stations  of 
65  M.  Tepaneco  (6,042  ft.)  and  74  M.  Carnero  (5,640  ft.).  As  we 
approach  Tehuacan,  the  valleys  take  on  a richer  aspect.  Haci- 
endas dot  the  landscape;  hobbled  burros  forage  amid  the 


526  Route  59.  TEHUACAN  Hot  Springs. 

alfalfa  fields.  The  spires  of  Tehuacan  are  visible  on  the  1.  — 
7 9 M.  Tehuacan  (5,40S  ft.),  see  below. 

Tehuacan.  — The  town  lies  about  34  M.  to  the  1.  of  the  station.  Tram- 
car."  meet  trains.  Fare  0 c.  Cabs  to  the  hotels,  25  c.;  within  the  town,  50  c. 
the  hr.  Trunk  by  cargador  (comp.  p.  lii),  25  c.  A branch  rly.  connects  Te~ 
/.  . icon  with  Esperanaa  Station,  on  the  Mex.  Rly.  (Rte.  52,  p.  4S4),  and 
travellers  entering  Mexico  through  the  port  of  Vera  Cruz  will  find  this  the 
shortest  route  to  the  springs.  The  trip  across  the  hilly  country  is  interest- 
ing. Consult  the  Guia  Ojicial  for  time  of  trains. 

Hotels  comp.  p.  xlvii;  no  omnibuses).  Hotel  Mexico  (in  the  town  of 
T ■ u .cur. ) $2  to  S4  a day,  Am.  PI.  Baths  50  c.  Hotel  EL  Riego,  at  El  Riego 
Spr,  v.  about  1 M.  from  the  town) ; native  management;  $3  to  $4,  Am.  PI. 
Baths  50  c.  The  grandiloquent  allurements  in  certain  of  the  hotel  adver- 
ti.-  mi  nts  are  to  be  taken  with  a large  grain  of  salt.  Come  to  a clear  undcr- 
m ;* nding  with  the  hotel  manager  regarding  rates,  baths,  breakfasts,  etc. 
Demand  good  food,  and  scrutinize  hotel  bills  before  paying  them.  Take 
nothing  for  granted,  and  arrange  details  and  charges  before  engaging  rooms. 
Only  cold  swimming  baths  are  free.  The  tram-cars  which  ply  between  the 
rly.  station  and  El  Riego  hotel  are  much  cheaper  than  the  carriages.  If  pos- 
ble  consult  someone  who  has  been  at  Tehuacan  before  planning  an  exten- 
sive stay. 

The  Springs,  of  which  there  are  a number,  are  scattered  over  the 
adjacent  country.  The  waters  are  said  to  be  s-milar  in  composition  to 
ti.i  < 'arlshad  (.Bohemia)  waters,  and  efficacious  in  liver  and  kidney  dis- 
orders. Tehuacan  is  frequently  spoken  of  as  the  Carlsbad  of  Mexico,  and 
tie-  spot  is  a popular  resort.  At  the  largest  spring  (which  has  a capacity 
of  a ut  3,250  gallons  per  minute)  upward  of  20,000  bottles  of  water  are 
prepared  and  shipped  daily.  The  San  Lorenzo , Cruz  Roja , and  others, 
are  popular  brands:  15  C.-25  c.  the  bottle. 

Tehuacan  (in  the  state  of  Pueblo),  with  a pop.  of  8,000,  the 
capital  of  the  district  of  the  same  name  and  called  Tehuacan 
dt  las  Granados  (from  the  fine  pomegranates  which  grow  in  the 
neighborhood),  stands  near  the  base  of  a range  of  tall  hills 
in  a region  where  considerable  wheat  is  grown.  A pecul- 
iarity of  the  district  is  the  number  of  swift  streams  which  race 
from  the  adjacent  mountains  and  traverse  the  country.  The 
water  is  impregnated  with  limestone,  and  during  countless 
ages,  it  has  left,  in  certain  of  the  old  channels,  deposits  of  lime 
which  make  the  beds  resemble  a segment  of  artificial  drain 
pipe.  Many  fine  fruits  grow  roundabout,  and  a specialty  of 
the  town  is  a sweet  paste,  a species  of  Turkish  delight,  flavored 
with  quince,  cocoa-nut,  pear,  almond,  etc.,  and  sold  (at  25  c.) 
in  astonishingly  thick  wood  boxes.  The  small  round  boxes, 
resembling  those  of  the  Celaya  dulce  (p.  131),  range  in  price 
fr<Mn  3 to  12  c.  The  town  proper  is  devoid  of  special  interest. 
The  several  old  churches,  — El  Carmen , La  Parroquia , San 
Franc  Sen,  etc.,  — with  their  polychrome  tiled-domes,  are  chiefly 
interesting  from  an  architectural  viewpoint.  There  are  a few 
pi'  ant  walks  in  the  neighborhood,  but  outside  the  town  the 
country  is  a bit  sandy.  In  this  respect  it  resembles  Carlsbad 
in  name  only.  Its  principal  fame  rests  in  the  curative  power 
of  r waters,  and  its  visitors  usually  seek  physical  rather  than 
mental  relief. 


PUEBLA  TO  OAXACA  CITY  59.  Rte.  527 


As  we  proceed  southward  from  Tehuacan,  the  rly.  traces  a wide  curve 
to  the  1.  and  half  circles  the  town.  On  the  r.  the  land  drops  away  and 
affords  broad  vistas  of  rich  valleys  crossed  and  re-crossed  by  narrow, 
swiftly-running  streams.  The  train  sweeps  round  another  wide  bend  to 
the  r.,  then  proceeds  due  S.  before  trending  again  toward  the  1.  Several 
fine  horse-shoe  curves  are  features  of  this  bit  of  track.  For  several  kilo- 
metros  the  line  zig-zags  to  and  fro  in  search  of  a properly  graded  exit  to 
lower  country,  and  the  telegraph  line  takes  a short  cut  across  the  fields 
and  joins  the  rly.  at  88  M.  La  Huerta  (4,762  ft.)  on  a fiat,  alkaline  plain, 
bounded  on  the  1.  by  a tall,  odd-looking  hill  which  the  winds  and  rains 
have  eroded  into  a fortress-like  form.  We  keep  company  with  this  hill 
for  several  miles,  crossing,  meanwhile,  strips  of  land  which  present  a pic- 
ture of  desolation. 

92  M.  Sanchez  (4,496  ft.).  The  date-palms  make  pretty  vistas  in  an 
otherwise  jejune  landscape.  We  sweep  steadily  downward  over  many 
reverse  curves.  The  views  become  more  tropical,  and  palms  are  con- 
stant features.  Here  and  there  a solitary  ch.  shows  a red  or  a tiled  dome 
above  the  trees.  99  M.  Pantzingo  (4,080  ft.).  103  M.  San  Sebastian  (3,769 
ft.).  Far  to  the  1.  is  an  old  ch.  with  a yellow  tiled  dome,  and  hard  by, 
a dependent  chapel,  also  tiled.  The  twin  towers  of  the  ch.  are  capped 
with  greenish-gold  tiles  that  produce  a handsome  effect  in  the  sunlight. 
We  traverse  a wide,  arid  plain  with  racing  clouds  of  dust,  then  haciendas 
where  groups  of  horses  and  mules  are  usually  trampling  and  winnowing 
grain.  As  we  approach  112  M.  Venta  Salada  (3,178  ft.)  the  line  dips 
sharply  and  crosses  a deep  gorge  spanned  by  a steel  bridge.  Clumps  of 
bananas  are  seen,  and  wide  fields  of  sugar-cane  stretch  away  from  the 
station.  Cones  of  crude  piloncillo  (sugar)  in  sacks  are  piled  high  on  the 
station  platform  awaiting  shipment.  The  land  slopes  abruptly  to  a deep 
gorge  on  the  r.  We  sweep  round  to  the  1.  and  traverse  cane-fields  and 
dusty  plains  dotted  with  the  omnipresent  cacti.  The  hillsides  are  cov- 
ered with  many  huge  specimens  of  organ  and  candelabra  cacti.  A wild 
country  with  impressive  scenery.  120  M.  Aldama  (3,000  ft.),  amid  cane- 
fields,  about  halfway  between  Puebla  and  Oaxaca.  We  descend  a nar- 
row valley  to 

121  M.  San  Antonio  (2,578  ft.)  amid  cane,  bananas  and  other  sub- 
tropical plants.  Sugar-mills  are  features  of  the  landscape.  The  train 
soon  enters  a rocky  region  of  canons  on  whose  sides  rise  splendid  speci- 
mens of  organ  cacti.  The  tall,  single  stems  of  these  bizarre  plants  are 
particularly  attractive,  as  are  the  many  nopal  and  candelabra  varieties. 
A brawling  mountain  brook  rushes  through  the  gorge  (El  canon  del 
Rio  Salado).  127  M.  Mexxa  (2,292  ft.)  in  a wild  mt.  ravine  seen  best  from 
the  r.  of  the  train.  The  birds,  the  river  (Rio  San  Antonio),  the  flowers 
and  the  atmosphere  are  very  tropical.  We  descend  the  gulch  over  many 
twists  and  curves  and  across  steel  bridges.  After  threading  a series  of 
tunnels,  the  train  rushes  along  the  edge  of  high  cliffs  with  huge  over- 
hanging rocks,  seen  to  fine  advantage  from  the  rear  platform.  The 
scenery  is  very  striking.  The  gigantic  balanced-rock  at  this  point  is  one 
of  the  most  attractive  bits  on  the  road.  The  composition  of  the  hills  is 
volcanic  detritus  mixed  with  huge  boulders,  the  whole  suggesting  the 
glacial  epoch.  We  enter  the  state  of  Oaxaca  (see  p.  541).  139  M.  Teco- 
mavaca  (1,869  ft.)  in  a productive  fruit  region.  Native  women  offer  bas- 
kets (25  c.)  of  ciruelas  (a  species  of  plum)  for  sale.  The  valley  broadens 
and  exposes  fine  corn-fields  to  view.  We  cross  a narrow,  plunging  river 
in  a wide,  sandy  bed,  over  a long  steel  bridge.  The  scenery  again  be- 
comes wild  and  picturesque.  146  M.  Quiotepec  (1,767  ft.),  the  lowest 
point  on  the  line,  is  a poor  station  in  a tropical  setting.  The  rly.  con- 
tinues to  wind  through  the  canon,  which  is  aflame  with  fine  flowering 
trees.  157  M.  Cuicatldn  (1,948  ft.). 

160  M.  Tomellin  (2,013  ft.),  from  which  the  ravine  derives  its  name. 
Tvly.  restaurant,  meals  $1.  The  line  flanks  (on  the  r.)  a barranca  traversed 
by  a shallow  river  (El  Tomdlin)  with  high  mts.  on  the  1.  We  climb  the 
grade  over  many  sharp  curves,  following  the  course  of  the  river, 
which  hereabout  has  necessitated  expensive  masonry  work,  rip-rap  and 
the  like.  During  the  rainy  season,  the  stream  rushes  through  its  re- 
stricted banks  with  a roar  that  is  awe-inspiring.  Beyond  the  new  station 


528  Route  60. 


OAXACA  CITY 


of  ' >■  :!  we  cr  >ss  the  ravine  on  a single  span  steel  bridge,  and  traverse 

t< •:  ,.-.s  beneath  overhanging  granite  balconies.  In  this  region  some 
i.  • . ..  engineering  feats  have  been  accomplished  at  enormous  expense. 
. i narrows  and  we  cross  and  re-cross  the  river.  Tall  clumps  of 
gr<  .w  in  the  warm  pockets  of  the  bottom-lands.  172  M.  Al- 
h.  117  ft. :.  1S2  M.  Santa  Catarina  (4,359  ft.),  with  many  banana 
t r • Tin.-  region  is  celebrated  for  many  fine  fruits;  notably  the  mamey, 
. . . .rat  g«-.  fig.  papaya,  chirimoya,  etc.  Orchids  are  features  of  the 
• . . The  scenery  becomes  less  varied.  192  M.  Parian  (4,890  ft.). 
\N  il  v out  of  the  labyrinth  of  hills,  crossing  a number  of  high 

i . : . The  hillsides  are  dotted  with  palmettos,  with  palm-leaf  fans 

ir.  ■ . »ry< > on  their  thin  branches.  At  this  point  the  persistent  river  has 

I • liv<  rted  from  its  natural  channel,  through  artificially  made  stone- 
t . : . rit  at  great  expense.  The  masonry  side  walls  that  protect  the 

trai  ks  are  elaborate  and  costly. 

j M /.  v Sedas  ( 6.304  ft.),  another  high  point,  at  the  top  of  the  in- 
rlm  in;.*  the  canon,  and  whence  we  descend  by  gentle  gradients  into 
t ; • a it  if ul  Oaxaca  Valley.  Telixtlahuacca  Siding.  208  M.  Huitzo 

(5.520  ft.)  with  an  old  ch.  (on  the  1.)  and  a gable  roof — unusual  in  ch. 
nr  i - - . tun  in  Mexico.  The  station  is  a shipping  point  for  charcoal 

( ti  . in  the  near-by  hills)  and  for  the  beautiful  Etla  onyx  (p.  xevi)  quar- 
ts a few  . I.-nu-tro*  to  the  E.  The  line  descends  and  sweeps  across 

1 • tit; - earefully  cultivated  and  dotted  with  churches.  Suchilgui - 

tongo  Siding.  Magdalena  Siding. 

2 1*1  M . Etla  (5,382  ft.) . An  old  aqueduct  is  visible  on  the  1. ; 
cr»  wiling  the  hill  is  a big  ch.  with  a peaked  roof.  The  plaza 
and  market  of  the  town  lie  between  the  station  and  the  main 
Mrr.  t.  *222  M.  Hacienda  Blanca  (5,179  ft.),  a white-walled 
farmhouse  at  the  1.  of  the  station.  We  approach  Oaxaca 
through  a fine  valley  threaded  by  the  Atoyac  River , which 
flow-  along  the  south-west  edge  of  the  city  between  green 
hills.  228  M.  Oaxaca,  see  below. 


6o.  Oaxaca  City. 

Arrival.  | from  the  rly.  station  to  the  hotel  and  chief  points  of 

int  short  Tram-cars  and  jitneys  (the  latter  $2.50  an  hr.;  $1.50 

for  4 hr.  or  leasl  meet  trains. 

Hotels  t ip.  p.  xlvii).  Hotel  Franeia;  Hotel  Mexico;  Hotel  Central, 
' ‘ A ut  . .ii  a par.  Hates  from  $2  up  per  day,  for  rooms;  meals  a la 
' Ml  i • ir  the  Plaza  de  Armas.  The  chofer  or  street-car  conductor  will 

point  the  wav. 

e s:-0ttlce  t >.<•  Federal  (N.  side  of  the  Cathedral).  TelegTaph- 

Office  m the  same  building. 

Banks.  / V .•  u-.l  dc  Mexico  (correspondents  of  the  Mexico  City 

Hanking  Corporation,  S.  A.). 

Railways.  Oaxn  i vi&  Orvente,  Santa  Cruz , El  Tule,  Aba  solo,  Guelavia) 
Tlacolula,  a point  on  the  journey  to  (p.  536)  the  Ruins  of 

Mltls. 

''  ' ‘ t Sinta  Anita,  Xoxo,  San  Isidro,  Jalpan , Zaachila,  La  Trinir 

L ■ ' .7  rwuldn.  San  Xicolds,  Santiago  Apostol,  Ocotldn , Gues- 

berhr.  La  r«ma)  to  (56  K.)  Taviche. 

ement  • i stations  to  Ocotldn.  thence  San  Dumisia , 
I ' ’.  Garznna.  San  Martin,  Verjel,  Bonequi)  to  (69  K.)  Ejutla, 

I ' ’ ! trains,  fares,  etc.  consult  the  Rly.  Folder,  or  the  GuiaOficial. 

Big  Tree  of  Tule.  without  oroceed- 
I irsii  n to  / Mi-tla , p.  5o4),  or  Tlacolula, 

' *'  by  the  ( iaxaca-Tlocolula  Rly.  Line.  Visitors  pressed 

* ;*  ’r "*"•  ">sh  to  visit  Mitla,  may  proceed  by  rly.  (daily  trains)  to 
7.  Vila  ml  ; - k up  some  sort  of  a conveyance  there  for  the  rest  of  the 
journo  . Consult  the  hotel  manager  before  making  any  definite  plan. 


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OAXACA  CITY 


60.  Route.  529 


Oaxaca  (pronounced  wah-/id/i-cah) , a Spanish  corruption 
of  the  Indian  Huaxyacac  — “a  place  covered  with  trees”  — 
chief  city  of  the  state  of  Oaxaca , 5,067  ft.  above  sea-level,  with 
a population  of  40,000,  was  changed  in  1872  to  Oaxaca  de 
# Juarez , in  honor  of  Benito  Pablo  Juarez  (p.  338).  It  is  one  of 
the  most  attractive  and  interesting  cities  of  the  Repub.,  with 
tram-cars,  electric  lights,  telephones,  and  a progressive  admin- 
istration. As  a rule  the  older  houses  are  low,  massive  and 
earthquake-resisting,  with  a more  pronounced  Spanish-Moorish 
cast  than  those  of  many  other  Mexican  cities.  Certain  of  the 
dwellings  even  are  fortress-like  in  character  — significant  sur- 
vivals of  the  days  of  political  unrest.  The  fine  portales  (which 
flank  the  Zdcalo)  are,  after  those  of  Merida,  among  the  most 
picturesque  in  the  country.  A small  army  of  hucksters,  public- 
letter  writers  ( evangelistas ) and  peddlers  pursue  their  voca- 
tions beneath  their  grateful  shade.  Oaxaca  is  the  leading 
industrial  and  commercial  centre  of  the  state,  and  the  metrop- 
olis of  the  minor  towns  of  Etla  de  Santiago,  Nochixtlan,  Asun- 
cion, Villa  Alvarez,  Heroica  Ejutla  Crespo,  Tlacolula  de  Ma- 
tamoros,  Tehuantepec  and  Salina  Cruz.  The  most  frequented 
section,  and  the  focus  of  the  city  life,  is  the  shady,  double  plaza 
of  which  the  Cathedral  is  the  commanding  feature.  A good 
military  band  plays  in  the  plaza  on  certain  evenings  (and 
Sunday  mornings),  and  the  cloister-like  portales  and  the 
shaded  walks  of  the  parks  are  then  brilliant  and  animated 
expressions  of  the  life  of  the  Oaxaquehos.  Saturday,  the  mar- 
ket day  of  the  Indians  of  the  neighborhood,  is  one  on  which 
the  visitor  may  obtain  the  best  views  of  the  native  life  and 
customs.  The  Mixtec  and  Zapotec  Indians  one  sees  here  are 
usually  undersized,  and  there  is  considerable  goitre  among 
the  women. 

The  more  one  sees  of  the  Mixtec  and  Zapotec  tribes,  the 
stronger  grows  the  conviction  that  their  forebears  were  (per- 
haps remotely)  in  some  way  linked  with  the  Mongols.  To  the 
eyes  of  some  of  them  there  is  a suspicious  slant,  they  possess 
certain  facial  characteristics  which  vaguely  recall  the  Canton- 
ese and  Fokicnese,  and  the  tonal  quality  of  their  speech  is  not 
unlike  that  of  certain  sections  of  Southern  China.  Some  of  their 
women  are  every  whit  as  unattractive  as  the  Chinese  women 
of  Canton  and  Amoy,  with  the  same  excoriating  voices  and 
vituperative  speech.  They  practise  certain  customs  similar 
to  those  cherished  by  Koreans. 

The  wool  sarapes  made  by  these  Indians  on  primitive  looms  at  their 
homes  are  desirable  and  serviceable  souvenirs.  They  vary  widely  in 
quality  and  price;  the  good  ones  cost  $25  and  upward,  the  cheap  ones 
from  $8  to  $15.  The  Indians  bring  them  to  market  on  Saturdays  and 
always  ask  much  more  for  them  than  they  expect  to  receive.  The  finer 
sarapes  are  usually  bought  up  by  brokers  who  ship  them  to  the  well- 
known  dealers  antiques  in  Mexico  City.  From  these  dealers  the 
traveller  can  usually  select  from  a wider  variety  (as  the  Indians  some- 
times bring  only  one  or  two  in  for  sale)  and  get  better  quality  and  value 


OAXACA  CITY 


530  Route  60. 


History. 


;s  there  are  “tricks  in  the  trade,”  and  the  makers  sometimes  stoop  to 
ircrpt  ion.  The  best  grades  (usual  size  5 by  6 ft.)  are  of  close  texture  and 
(;  \ , 1 with  lasting  vegetable  colors.  The  tourist  should  see  to  it  that  his 

• moth-eaten,  are  closely  and  evenly  woven,  of  regula- 
tion > i z t * , and  are  not  made  heavy  by  being  moistened.  Fine  blue-and- 
wl  ite  8 irapes  are  the  rarest  and  best.  Unless  closely  watched  the  In- 
i.m<  u ill  substitute  poor  articles  for  good  ones.  The  hand-wrought,  gold 
hiign-c  jewellery  made  and  worn  by  the  Miztecan  and  Zapotecan  women 
i>  oiicn  purchased  by  travellers  as  souvenirs.  The  quality  of  the  gold  is 
usually  24  karat;  prices  vary  according  to  the  value  placed  on  her  pos- 
m "ions  by  the  wearer.  Other  attractive  curios  are  the  embroidered 
K i made  and  worn  by  the  Mazateca  Indians  of  Oaxaca  state. 

History.  The  town  was  founded  in  1486  by  some  soldiers  of  the  Mexi- 
can Kmperor  Ahuizotl , who.  in  the  course  of  a journey  from  the  highland 
capital  to  the  / thmus  of  Tehuantepec , founded  a fort  here  on  the  banks 
•if  r he  Atoyac  River.  Because  of  the  apparently  inexhaustible  deposits 
of  g"ld-ore  in  the  vicinity,  the  district  became  popular  and  populous, 
jm I the  invading  Spaniards  so  found  it  in  1521.  From  that  date  it  was 
Ultimately  connected  with  the  history  of  the  conquistadores,  for  after  its 
definite  occupation  by  Diego  de  Ordaz,  a lieutenant  of  Cortes , it  became 
a fa v rite  Spanish  stronghold.  The  Mixtec  and  Zapotec  Indians  did  not 
permit  the  conquest  to  be  facile,  and  history  records  many  sanguinary 
struggles  with  the  Spaniards.  It  was  not  until  after  the  complete  sub- 
jugat  ion  of  Tenochtillan  that  Cortes  was  able  to  send  a considerable  force 
to  ..  d ie  the  inhabitants  and  open  through  their  possessions  a route  to 
the  southern  sea.  Early  in  1522  Gonzalo  de  Sandoval,  with  35  horse,  200 
. P nidi  troopers,  and  a swarm  of  Indian  allies,  advanced  southward  and 
encountered  t lie  Mixtecas  near  Miila.  Some  weeks  of  guerrilla  warfare 
crimed,  then  the  discomfited  Indians  retired  toward  Tehuantepec , and 

• e Sp. mi  irds  mid  their  allies  founded  the  towns  of  El  Marquesado,  San 
U . Sr " Jxian  Chapultepec,  and  others.  In  1524  the  cavaliers  Juan 
( ' / ’'-'i  ami  //'  *7 lando  Badajoz  named  the  growing  settlement  Antequera 
i from  the  <>ld  Roman  town  of  Antequera  la  Vieja,  in  Andalucia ),  and  by 
a .!••<  re.-  nf  Charles  V,  dated  July  6,  1529,  it  was  made  a ciudad  and  was 
< ■ dl. -d  Oaxaca  The  same  edict  created  Heman  Cortes  Marquis  of  the 
Yall>  / of  Oaxaca,  and  granted  him  an  immense  tract  of  adjacent  land 

< .Hi-  i 1 Uer  La  Marquesada — the  marquisate.  “Thereafter  Cortes  was 
- . n gen«-rally  as  the  Marquis,  and  this  dignified  title,  when  used  with- 

0 it  the  name  of  the  individual,  has  been  always  appropriated  in  the  colo- 
nii  '.  in  an  especial  manner,  to  Cortes , as  the  title  of  Admiral  was  to 
Columbus.” 

T fir  ' convent  was  established  here  in  1529  by  Fray  Gonzalo  Lucero. 
Tie-  Oarara  diocese  dates  from  1530,  and  it  was  one  of  the  first  four 
rr  .te  i in  New  Spain.  Coincidently,  a Papal  Bull  confirmed  the  found- 
mg  of  tin-  town.  An  old  chronicle,  dated  1532,  says  Oaxaca  possessed  “five 
h " ir.-  1 Cauilian  families  of  pure  blood  without  an  African,  a Jew,  or  a 

1 or  ,:m. mg  them.  It  is  a Bishop’s  seat  (the  first  Bishop  was  Juan  Lopez 

. appointed  in  1530),  not  very  big,  yet  a fair  and  beautiful  city 
> I - ;n  1 1,  which  standeth  three  score  leagues  from  Mexico  (city)  in  a 
I !••  tit  valley.”  Oreat  religious  activity  was  shown  between  1549  and 
1 tablishing  160  churches  in  as  many  villages. 

\not  her  writer  speaks  of  this  ancient  bishopric  as  a “triple  vale,  tre- 
f i in  -dm pc,  with  the  capital  city,  Oaxaca , at  its  stem.  From  the  N.  a 

er  leads  into  the  Valley  of  Ella,  through  a billowy  sea  of  corn- 
This  riv<-r  turns  S.  as  it  reaches  the  city,  and  runs  toward  the  Pa- 

< it  . through  the  I alley  of  Ejutla:  while  the  third  vale,  known  as  Tla- 
r i . trends  westward.  Whichever  way  the  eye  may  wander,  the  view 
»-  id.  <|  bv  hills.  The  city  itself  is  built  at  the  foot  of  a hill,  as  it  slopes 

fiat  plain  of  stone  buildings,  above  which,  every 

• ■ w ->'p;.ire<.  are  thrust  up  domes  and  towers  of  churches  and  convents. 

I imi  lediately  above  the  city  of  Oaxaca  one  looks  down 

up  a a fair  -cene : smooth  and  verdant  fields  of  cane  and  corn,  dotted 

hade r das  and  with  Indian  hamlets  springing  up  at  the 
ha-  ..f  everv  hill.”  A great  cholera  epidemic  in  1833  killed  one  eighth 
of  the  population  of  the  city,  among  them  two  brothers  and  the  father 


Cathedral  OAXACA  CITY  60.  Route.  531 


of  President  Porfirio  Diaz , who  passed  his  childhood  (house  in  the  Calle 
de  la  Soledad ) here. 

Oaxaca  has  always  been  eminently  Spanish  and  intensely  Catholic. 
When  Miguel  Hidalgo  declared  (in  1810)  for  Independence,  he  was  vio- 
lently denounced  by  the  Bishop  of  Oaxaca  as  an  “instrument  of  Satan.” 
This  clerical  worthy  so  inflamed  the  public  imagination  that  when  two 
of  Hidalgo's  aides  ( Sehores  Armenia  and  Lopez)  came  (in  the  guise  of 
pedlers)  to  get  the  trend  of  events,  they  were  seized  and  executed  — 
their  decapitated  heads  being  publicly  exposed  in  the  street  where  they 
were  captured.  The  present  Calle  de  Armenia  y Lopez  is  a relic  of  the 
ghastly  occurrence.  The  revolucionarios  retaliated  promptly,  and  when 
the  royalist  officer  General  Jose  Maria  Regules  and  several  of  his  followers, 
known  to  feel  bitterly  toward  the  cause,  were  captured,  they  were  exe- 
cuted on  the  identical  spot  where  Hidalgo's  emissaries  were  shot.  There- 
after the  city  was  the  scene  of  many  bloody  struggles.  The  patriot  Jose 
Maria  Morelos  entered  the  place  through  the  marquesada  (where  the 
Mex.  So.  Rly.  station  now  stands)  Nov.  24,  1812,  and  after  a sharp 
struggle  in  the  streets  captured  the  city  with  its  military  stores. 

The  Climate  of  Oaxaca  is  almost  perfect;  the  average  temperature  is 
70°  Fahr.,  and  Government  Weather  Bureau  statistics  show  that  it  va- 
ries but  about  13°  during  a year.  The  rains  are  regular,  and  the  rainfalls 
(about  33  inches)  usually  occur  between  June  and  November. 

Oaxaca  possesses  many  churches,  certain  of  them  with  decorationsun- 
like those  of  other  cities  of  the  Repub.  At  the  head  of  the  city  churches  is 

The  Cathedral  (Pl.C,  3),  facing  the  Alameda  Leon  and  flanking  the 
Plaza  Mayor , founded  in  1553  and  completed  in  1730  at  a cost  of  $2,000,- 
000.  It  has  been  bombarded  and  pillaged  so  many  times  that  it  is  now 
but  a simulacrum  of  its  former  greatness.  The  fine  pictures,  altars  and 
other  decorations  which  once  adorned  it  have  disappeared;  those  re- 
maining have  but  little  more  than  a passing  interest  for  the  traveller. 
The  general  plan  of  the  building  is  similar  to  that  of  Mexico  City:  a 
nave  and  four  aisles,  two  of  the  latter  closed  and  occupied  by  14  newly 
decorated  and  uninteresting  chapels.  After  the  usual  Spanish  custom, 
the  nave  is  occupied  by  the  coro  in  the  front  part,  and  then  by  the  crujia 
or  way  of  the  cross,  and  the  high  altar.  Beyond  the  latter,  in  the  apse, 
is  the  Altar  de  los  Reyes.  Against  the  wall  of  the  choir,  facing  the  main 
entrance,  is  the  Altar  of  El  Senor  del  Perdon,  the  Lord  of  Pardon.  The 
handsomely  decorated  Chapel  of  Nuestra  Sehora  de  Guadalupe  (at  the 
E.  end)  is  attractive.  Architecturally,  the  ch.  has  been  much  injured  by 
the  recent  thoughtless  innovations  that  have  sacrificed  much  of  the 
charm  of  antiquity,  so  that,  as  a whole,  the  edifice  has  lost  the  greater 
part  of  its  interest.  Happily  the  beautiful  facade  remains  intact,  en- 
riched bv  some  remarkably  good  sculpture  by  an  unknown  artist  — 
work  probably  of  the  17th  century. 

Of  the  number  of  paintings,  antique  and  modern,  in  the  ch.  perhaps 
the  most  interesting  are  two  in  the  Sacristy,  one  an  Assumption , at- 
tributed to  Miguel  Cabrera  (comp.  p.  cli),  and  the  other  a Triumph  of 
the  Virgin,  possibly  by  Juan  Correa  (p.  cxlix)  or  Cristobal  de  Villalpando 
(p.  cxlix).  Near  the  entrance  to  the  sacristia  is  a curious  closet  let  into 
the  side  wall  of  the  aisle  and  protected  by  an  iron  grill,  behind  which  is 
a half-dozen  or  more  brass  busts  of  santos , chief  among  them  San  Fran- 
cisco de  A sis,  S.  Ignacio , S.  Dominico,  etc.  The  two  huge  allegorical  paint- 
ings to  the  r.  and  1.  of  the  main  entrance  are  by  Marcial  de  Sanlaella  and 
date  from  1726.  The  coro  contains  nothing  of  interest.  The  two  sets  of 
wheel  bells  that  hang  from  the  E.  end  are  quaint.  The  organ  is  of  Euro- 
pean origin  and  dates  from  1907. 

Four  squares  N.  of  the  Cathedral,  and  far  surpassing  it  in  interest,  is  the 
unique  Monastery  and  Church  of  Santo  Domingo  (PI.  C,  2),  one  of  the 
largest  conventual  structures  in  the  Repub.,  founded  in  1575  and 
completed  a century  later  at  a cost  (which  may  be  doubted)  of  13  millions 
of  pesos.  It  is  related  that  when  the  ch.  was  begun  there  was  available 
only  two  pesos  and  a half  to  start  the  work  with.  Because  of  the  frequent 
and  sometimes  violent  earthquakes  in  the  Valley  of  Oaxaca,  the  edifice 
was  given  a fortress-like  massiveness,  consequently  the  monastery  and 
its  ch.  have  passed  comparatively  uninjured  through  many  shocks  of 


532  Route  60.  OAXACA  CITY  Santo  Domingo. 

extraordinary  severity.  Many  of  the  chiselled  stone  santos  have  been 
; 1 and  toppled  from  their  niches  in  the  fagade,  and,  owing  to  the 

fai  t that  the  ch.  has  been  often  used  as  a fortress,  its  massive  walls  are 
^ arred  by  shells.  It  was  ruthlessly  plundered  and  devastated  by  the 
French  troops  during  the  French  Intervention,  who  pulled  down  some 
of  the  interior  walls  and  desecrated  the  chapels.  It  is  also  related  that 
some  of  the  fine  paintings  by  Concha  were  valued  by  the  iconoclastic 
vandals,  who  appropriated  them  solely  for  their  canvas;  to  obtain  this, 
they  pounded  and  washed  clear  the  fabric  of  the  pictures.  More  than 
once  the  sumptuous  ch.  has  been  used  as  a stable,  while  a large  portion 
of  the  beautiful  reredos  of  the  high  altar  went  as  kindling-wood  for  the 
soldiers. 

The  church,  together  with  the  monastery  which  extends  back  of  it, 
occupies  a space  of  over  550  ft.  Twenty-one  small  iron  angels  on  pedestals 
guard  the  huge  stone  and  brick-paved  atrium,  which  is  enclosed  by  a 
time-stained  iron  reja.  The  brown,  weather-beaten  fagade  is  now  badly 
defaced.  A host  of  swallows  ( golondrinas ) have  plastered  their  mud  nests 
beneath  the  ridges  of  the  campanarios,  which  in  turn  are  covered  with 
white  and  blue  tiles.  The  quaint  wire  work  on  the  main  doors  is  inter- 
esting. In  the  room  at  the  base  of  the  r.  tower  the  sacristan  has  a small 
workshop  where  he  weaves  dress-cloth  strips  much  sought  by  the  credu- 
lous Indian  parishioners,  who  attribute  special  qualities  to  them  on  ac- 
count of  their  being  marie  in  the  church. 

The  interior  [says  Mr.  Baxter]  is  one  of  the  most  splendid  in  Mexico 
— indeed  the  most  superb  example  of  Baroque  decoration  in  the  country. 
The  walls  and  the  great  barrel-arched  ceiling  are  covered  in  every  part 
with  heavily  gilded  ornament  and  polychrome  sculpture  in  high  relief. 
The  effect  is  one  of  indescribable  splendor.  The  scheme  of  decoration  in 
the  domed  vaulting  of  the  organ-loft  ceiling  may  be  compared  to  an 
enormous  tree,  extending  in  all  directions  its  branches  and  its  innumer- 
able, lea  vs  of  gold,  between  which  appear  the  busts  of  saints,  diminish- 
ing in  uze  as  the  height  increases,  until,  at  the  apex,  only  the  faces  are 
shown.” 

Thb  bizarre  idea  is  carried  out  on  a smaller  scale  on  the  vaulted  ceiling 
ab.»ve  the  main  entrance,  below  the  loft,  where  34  figures,  including  the 
b . i of  the  Santisima  and  many  bunches  of  grapes,  hang,  as  it  were,  in 
the  branches  of  this  odd  genealogical  tree  of  the  Blessed  Virgin.  Flank- 
ing the  single,  tile-paved  nave,  are  eleven  lateral  chapels,  enclosed 
within  screens  of  wrought  iron,  but  connected  by  an  interior  pasiUo. 
Th<-  largest  and  finest  chapel  is  that  of  the  Virgen  del  Rosario  (the  Virgin 
"i  ' ’ 1 b‘-  try  This  chapel  is  in  itself  a spacious  temple,  with  its  choir, 
its  md« 'pendent  sacristy,  and  its  towers.  In  splendor  the  interior  vies 
"ith  the  main  ch.  1 A cry  square  foot  of  the  walls  and  ceiling  of  the  main 
1 * v M ->  <que  decorations,  and  the  arches  in  the  clipped  transepts, 

. nd  t h-  pi-ndentives  in  the  rear  of  the  presbiterio,  are  decidedly  Alham- 
br  a-  in  character,  .with  a tendency  toward  heraldic  design.  A host  of 
l by  hr.. me  santos  in  low  relief  adorn  the  over-elaborated  ceiling  above 
' 1 : ; ” ' r,  prominent  among  them  the  bust  of  San  Gregorio  Magno, 

- . . f the  (iregorian  chant  widely  used  in  Mexican  churches.  The 
I"  !f  the  S.  transept  (the  work  of  Lievano ) is  that  of  Don  Juan 
' / first  bishop  of  the  Oaxaca  diocese.  That  in  the  N.  tran- 

■ ; • f Don  /•/  ilo'iio  G.  Gillou \ the  first  archbishop  of  Oaxaca. 

1 h * • original  high  altar  was  an  elaborate  affair  of  carved  and  gilded 
['  Vex . City,  and  transported  at  enormous  expense  over  the 
1 ' *•  !l  * difficult  route  to  Oaxaca.  It  was  decorated  in  oil  paintings  by 
1 ’ / ’ ; ' I1  cxlv  >.  and  installed  in  1612,  but  was  replaced  by  a yet 

1 '■  ' r t.-  .affair  in  16S1,  the  original  paintings  and  some  of  the 

im  - i cing  retained.  This  second  altar  was  destroyed  in  the  War  of  the 
• ' : ’ md  later  still  it  was  proposed  to  scrape  the  walls  clean  of  the 

!”'  1 ornament  for  the  sake  of  the  gold  contained  therein.  This  vandal- 
i even  begun,  but  happily  it  was  stopped  before  it  proceeded  far 

k-''  ' do  irreparable  harm.  So  the  magnificent  interior  remains  one 
of  the  great  architectural  spectacles  of  Mexico.” 

1 • pr-  ent  high  altar  is  a modest  structure  enclosing  a silver  open- 
work casket  in  a glass  case,  guarded  by  four  gilded  angels.  A small  figure 


OAXACA  CITY 


60.  Route.  533 


of  Christ  on  the  Cross  is  the  central  object.  On  a marble  tablet  at  the 
right  of  the  main  entrance  is  the  following  inscription,  in  Spanish: 

“ This  sanctuary,  which  is  considered  one  of  the  most  notable  in  America , 
was  erected  by  the  Dominican  Fathers,  who  finished  the  work  of  construction 
early  in  the  17th  century.  In  the  19lh  cent,  the  high  altar  was  destroyed  and 
the  church  was  closed  40  years,  during  which  time  it  suffered  lamentable 
deterioration.  The  illustrious  and  most  reverend  Archbishop,  Dr.  Don 
Eulogio  G.  Gillow,  with  the  help  of  the  Oaxaca  people,  repaired  and  redeco- 
rated it,  and  on  Nov.  2d,  1002,  consecrated  it  to  the  Honor  and  Glory  of 
Christ  the  Redeemer. ’’ 

The  inscription  at  the  1.  of  the  entrance,  beneath  a life-size  polychrome 
and  blinded  figure  of  the  Virgin  upholding  a cross,  is  an  excerpt  from  the 
words  of  King  Solomon,  Third  Book  of  Kings,  Chapter  VIII : 

“ Oh  Lord  ! M ost  High,  God  ! Look  upon  this  thy  temple  with  clement  eyes. 
Hearken  to  the  supplications  which  we  make  thee  and  which  thy  children  will 
make  thee  in  the  succession  of  time  when,  laden  with  their  offerings  and  their 
tears,  they  come  to  implore  thy  pardon  for  their  sins,  to  lament  their  mis- 
fortune, to  pray  for  rain  for  their  crops,  to  invoke  thy  aid  against  plague  and 
hunger  in  the  days  of  thy  just  punishment. 

“ When  strangers  from  far  countries  come  hither  attracted  by  the  greatness 
of  thy  name;  when  those  who  doubt,  those  who  falter,  and  those  who  suffer 
enter  this  holy  place,  hear  them  Lord;  shower  upon  them  thy  kindness  and  thy 
mercy.” 

The  convent  at  the  E.  end  of  the  ch.,  now  the  Comandancia 
Militar , is  roofed  with  massive  vaulting  throughout.  Originally 
it  was  as  elegant  as  it  was  substantial,  richly  decorated  in  its 
enormous  dormitories,  handsome  cloisters  and  corridors, 
grand  courts,  and  extensive  gardens  with  fountains,  basins,  and 
luxuriant  vegetation.  On  its  sequestration  after  the  Reform 
Laws  it  was  converted  into  a barrack. 

The  huge  Church  of  La  Soledad  (PI.  B,  3),  reached  by  several  flights 
of  stone  steps  from  the  Ave.  de  la  Independencia,  W . of  the  Cathedral, 
is  a massive  example  of  old  Colonial  architecture  with  a well-preserved 
Baroque  fagade  carved  in  brown  stone.  It  contains  a locally  celebrated 
image,  La  Virgen  de  la  Soledad  (crowned  with  great  solemnity  in  1909), 
to  which  miraculous  healing  powers  are  attributed.  The  Iglesia  de  los 
Nieves  (PI.  D,  3),  in  the  E.  part  of  the  city,  facing  the  Calle  Felix  Diaz, 
is  very  old  and  very  quaint,  with  an  odd,  squat  dome  and  many  flying 
buttresses.  Waxen  saints  stand  about  the  interior,  and  their  attitudes 
recall  those  of  figures  in  a wax-works  show.  There  is  an  old  stone  foun- 
tain near  the  entrance.  About  five  squares  higher  up  the  street,  toward 
the  N.,  is  the  Iglesia  de  los  Dolores  (PI.  E,  3),  a nondescript  structure 
devoid  of  interest.  Adjoining  the  market  in  the  upper  part  of  the  town, 
facing  the  primera  C alle  las  Pascuas,  is  the  Church  of  El  Carmen  (PI. 
C,  2),  called  alto  (upper),  to  distinguish  it  from  the  Carmen  Ch.  (PI.  C , 3), 
facing  the  Avenida  Morelos,  which  is  known  as  el  bajo  (lower).  Further 
down  toward  the  centre  of  the  city,  in  the  Ave.  Independencia,  is  the 
curious  old  green-stone  Church  of  San  Felipe  (PI.  B.3),  now  but  a tot- 
tering relic  of  former  magnificence.  It  contains  several  noteworthy 
Churrigueresque  altars  and  an  elaborate  reredo  in  the  same  style.  The 
Church  of  La  Compania  (PI.  C,  4),  at  the  S.-W.  end  of  the  Zocalo,  has 
been  remodelled  out  of  its  former  interest.  The  Ch.  of  San  Juan  de  Dios 
(PI.  C,4),  opposite  the  Mercado  Porfirio  Diaz,  is  the  chosen  shrine  of  the 
Indians,  and  contains  a number  of  bizarre  paintings  relating  to  episodes 
of  the  religious  conquest  which  succeeded  the  military  invasion  of  the 
Spaniards.  Here  may  also  be  seen  a number  of  portraits  of  the  friars 
whose  life  wrork  was  associated  with  the  early  history  of  Oaxaca.  Other 
churches  of  minor  importance  are  the  Parroquia  del  Sangre  de  Cristo, 
Guadalupe,  San  Felive,  San  Agustin,  etc.  The  Episcopal  Methodist 
Mission  maintains  a Methodist  Church  in  the  city. 

The  rambling  Palacio  de  Gobierno  del  Estado  (PI.  C,  4),  which 
flanks  the  S.  side  of  the  Zocalo,  dates  from  Sept.  16,  1877,  and  contains 


534  IUe.  61.  EXCURSIONS  FROM  OAXACA 


h it  little  to  interest  the  visitor.  The  Palacio  Federal,  on  the  N.  side  of 
t iet  'at  hedraJ,  adjoins  the  fine  new  Instituto  de  Ciencias,  which  houses 
t he  State  Library.  In  the  archives  of  this  are  some  interesting  old  docu- 
nients  in  Spanish)  relating  to  the  Spanish  Conquest,  and  to  the  early  his- 
t < >ry  <>f  the  region.  In  this  building  is  also  the  Mttseo  del  Estado  (state 
museum)  with  an  interesting  collection  of  Indian  relics.  Open  all  day, 
free.  Closed  on  Sundays  and  public  holidays. 

The  Parque  Llano  del  Patrocinio  (called  Llano  and  also  Parque 
B ’ d ) Juarez  . at  the  N.  end  of  the  town  (PL  D,  1 '),  is  a pretty,  semi- wild 
sp<  >t.  with  several  fountains  and  some  fine  trees  and  flowers.  In  the  centre 
i'  handsome  bronze,  life-size  statue  of  Beniio  Juarez  on  an  attractive 
P<-.  lest  al.  fashioned  architecturally  after  the  style  of  the  Mitla  ruins.  The 
fallen  and  broken  crown  at  the  feet  of  the  patriot,  and  to  which  he 
points,  is  supposed  to  be  that  of  the  Archduke  Maximilian.  The  inscrip- 
tion on  the  rear  of  the  statue  advises  that  the  monument  was  erected  to 
perpetuate  the  memory  of  the  First  Reformer , by  the  city  council,  during 
the  administration  of  Governor  Martin  Gonzalez , and  that  coincidently 
the  name  of  the  park  was  changed  to  Benito  Juarez.  At  the  top  of  the 
park  is  a bronze  statue  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  patriot  Miguel 
H :!'jn  v Cos1  ilia.  The  dates  refer  to  his  birth,  his  battles  for  liberty,  and 
hi'  death.  The  stone  lions  (curious  attitude  for  roaring  lions)  which 
gu.trd  the  entrances  to  the  paseo  are  by  local  sculptors.  Facing  the 
Cathe  Iral  is  the  Alameda  de  Leon,  with  a bronze  statue  to  General 
At  tot  ■ d*  Leon  (b.  1794,  d.  1S47),  erected  by  the  municipality  in  1SS6. 

Excursions.  1.  To  the  Cerro  del  Fortin  de  Zaragoza  (PI.  A,  2),  a 
hill  350  ft.  above  the  city)  to  the  N.-W.,  15  min.  walk  from  the  Plaza 
M i >/  >r.  Proceed  W.  to  the  Calle  Crespo , thence  N.  to  its  intersection  with 
t h« • stairs  17  short  flights  and  17  landings)  -which  lead  to  the  Calzada 
J rcz.  near  the  top.  The  colossal  bronze  statue  (wt.  15  tons)  of  Benito 
.1  . ■ re which  crowns  the  hill,  is  the  work  of  A.  Cencetti , and  was  cast  in 
L • if  in  1891.  On  the  book  which  the  Indian  President  holds  in  his  hand 
l-  the  word  Reforma.  The  view  from  the  esplanade  at  the  base  of  the 
'f  • - h fine  and  is  well  worth  the  climb.  The  tall  hill  directly  in  front 
’ • 'h<  S.i  is  Monte  Alban.  The  river  which  winds  around  its  E.  base  is 
t fi<-  .1  Hundreds  of  square  miles  of  mountain  and  valley  land,  and 

• v ’:•!)>•  streets,  houses,  and  churches  of  the  city,  are  all  spread  out 
like  a relief  map.  San  Pablo  Gueletao , where  Juarez  was  born,  lies 
b*Lm  1 the  hills  at  the  N.-E.  Mitla  reposes  some  25  M.  to  the  E.  The  rly. 
to  Vh-xi  i-  City  is  seen  stretching  away  to  the  W.  Flowers  and  trees  are 
t • ; 'l.irii i'd  on  the  hillsides,  and  it  is  proposed  to  make  this  elevated 

; ' v;dar  resort  At  the  summit  are  the  ruins  of  an  old  fortress,  in 

hirh  I-  weather-beaten  French  culverin  ( culebrina ) with  the  name 
l a i the  date  1K54  — a relic  of  the  French  invasion  of  1864-67. 

Monte  Alban  PI.  A,  5),  7 M.  to  the  S.-W.  A good  walker  can  make 
• 1 ilv  in  a day.  Horse  for  the  round  trip  $1.50.  Part  of  the  road 

/ t . .r  bicycl*  Unless  the  traveller  is  interested  in  archaeological 
the  journey  will  hardly  repay  him.  The  level  hill-top  shows 
* 1 > ■ - "1  having  been  the  centre  of  a considerable  population  in 

■ tit  t • There  are  rock-carvings,  the  remains  of  fortresses  and 
I h«  view  is  attractive,  but  an  almost  equally  comprehensive 
' < ■ iv  be  had  from  the  Cerro  del  Fortin,  and  with  less  exertion  and 
expenditure  of  time. 

I hr  it  . urban  town  of  San  Felipe  del  Agua  (St.  Philip  of  the  water), 
4 k i J..  to  th*  N at  the  foot  of  the  hill  of  the  same  name.  Tram-cars  at 
tr-  u*"it  interval*.  On  certain  days  — particularly  All  Souls  Day  ( Dia 
a-  •’  . no  — a curious  Indian  ceremony,  called  the  Wedding  of  Skeletons, 
h >U'  md  visitors  from  Oaxaca  and  the  surround- 
iTi-  i untr*  Other  picturesque  towns  in  the  environs  are  Xoxocoildn, 
San  Juan  Chapultepec , Tlalixtac  and  Tule  (see  p.  536). 

6i.  Excursion  to  the  Ruins  of  Mitla. 

I he  Ruins  of  Mitla,  among  the  most  interesting  and  most  accessible 
' ruined  it ies.  are  well  deserving  of  a visit.  They  lie  about 
25  M S.-E  of  Oaxaca  City , in  the  town  of  San  Pablo  Mitla.  A day  and  a 


RUINS  OF  MITLA 


61.  Route.  535 


half  is  usually  given  over  to  the  trip  (which  can  be  planned  to  the  best 
advantage  with  the  help  of  the  hotel  manager),  but  where  the  traveller 
is  limited  for  time  it  can  be  accomplished  in  a day,  provided  one  can  get 
a good  team  of  horses.  This  means  that  one  should  start  from  the  hotel 
at  5 a.  m.,  do  the  outward  trip  in  5-6  hrs.,  devote  an  hour  to  the  inspec- 
tion of  the  ruins,  another  to  luncheon  and  rest,  and  return  in  the  after- 
noon. (A  branch  of  the  Mex.  So.  Rly.  is  under  construction  and  should  be 
completed  early  in  1911.  The  outward  trip  can  then  be  made  in  1 hr.  and 
the  round  trip  in  one  forenoon,  at  much  less  expense.)  Saddle-horses,  by 
the  day,  $1.50.  Stabling  and  provender  in  Hotel  Quero,  at  Mitla,  70  c. 
Unless  the  traveller  knows  the  road,  and  speaks  some  Spanish,  he  will  do 
well  to  take  one  of  the  stable  or  hotel  boys  as  a guide.  Usual  fee,  $1,  in 
addition  to  horse  hire.  The  regular  charge  for  a vehicle  (which  includes 
the  services  of  a driver,  stabling  charge,  etc.,  at  Mitla ) varies  from  $10 
for  a single-seated,  2-wheeled  cart  (known  as  a volanta),  with  just  room 
enough  for  the  traveller  and  his  driver,  to  $18  for  a double-seated 
cabriolet  (with  room  for  two  and  a driver),  and  $25  for  a vis-a-vis  which 
will  hold  4 persons  and  a coachman.  The  two  latter  vehicles  are  pro- 
tected by  tops.  The  economical  traveller  may,  by  expressing  his  wish  to 
the  hotel  manager,  become  one  of  a party,  and  thus  reduce  the  expense. 
If  there  is  no  prospective  traveller  in  the  hotel  at  which  one  is  stopping, 
ask  the  manager  to  inquire  at  the  other  hotels.  One  may  avoid  the  jolting 
over  the  cobble-paved  streets  of  Oaxaca  by  taking  the  tram-car  of  the 
Ferrocarril  Oaxaca  y Orienle  line  to  Santa  Marfa  del  Tule  (1  hr.,  fare  37  c.) 
and  await  the  vehicle  there.  The  hotel  proprietor  will  also  phone  to  Tlaco - 
lula  and  have  a vehicle  come  to  meet  the  traveller  at  Tule.  The  cars  leave 
Tule  every  2 hrs.  Oaxaca  time.  The  city  terminus  of  the  car-line  is  at  the 
Mercado  Porfirio  Diaz,  just  S.-W.  of  the  Plaza  Principal.  It  would  be  a 
greedy  cyclist  who  would  essay  a second  journey  over  the  highway  to 
Mitla.  In  the  T ule  Valley  the  road  is  smooth  and  the  going  is  good,  but 
fully  § of  the  highroad  is  poor.  A good  walker  can  make  the  outward  trip 
in  7 hrs.,  visit  the  ruins  by  twilight  of  the  same  day,  and  return  at  his 
leisure  the  day  following.  He  will  be  able  to  register  many  pleasant  im- 
pressions of  the  Indians  and  their  country  life  that  will  be  impossible  on 
a quick  trip  over  the  road.  At  present  parts  of  the  road  are  not  practi- 
cable for  automobiles. 

The  quaint  and  commodious  Hotel  of  Don  Felix  Quero  (pronounced 
Keh- roh)  at  Mitla  provides  good  bed  and  board  at  $3  a day,  Am.  PI. 
The  fine  old  cloisters  and  the  ample  patio  with  its  fountains,  birds,  and 
flowers  are  attractive.  The  toilet  arrangements  are  somewhat  crude  and 
primitive.  If  the  traveller  learns  at  Oaxaca  that  a party  of  20  or  more  has 
left  for  the  ruins  the  day  before,  he  had  better  postpone  his  trip  until  they 
return,  as  there  may  be  a lack  of  accommodations.  Goggles  to  protect 
the  eyes  from  the  sun’s  glare,  and  vaseline  or  some  similar  substance 
rubbed  on  the  face  to  prevent  sunburn,  will  be  found  invaluable. 

The  road  leads  due  E.  past  the  Cathedral  and  out  the  rocky 
and  ill-kept  Avenida  de  la  Independencia,  to  the  suburbs.  In 
the  early  a.  m.  the  valley  fairly  teems  with  Indian  life.  As  one 
threads  the  peaceful  country  road  and  passes  scores  of  natives, 
huge  creaking  carts,  panniered  burros,  heavily  laden  mules 
and  horses  all  bound  cityward,  one  can  easily  imagine  one’s  self 
in  some  distant  and  forgotten  corner  of  the  world  untouched 
by  the  blight  of  progress  and  strenuosity,  and  where  primitive 
methods  and  customs  are  still  in  vogue.  The  quaint  town  of 
Santa  Lucia  (often  called  Pueblo  de  los  Ladrillos , from  its  many 
primitive  brick-kilns)  is  reached  in  about  20  minutes.  The 
old  ch.  on  the  r.  and  the  native  houses  are  attractive.  Beyond 
San  Sebastian  we  enter  the  pretty  Tule  Valley,  with  many  big 
trees,  cacti  and  Bougainvillaea. 


536  Route  61.  BIG  TREE  OF  TULE 


Santa  Maria  del  Tule  (Holy  Mary  of  the  bulrush),  in  the 
centre  of  the  valley  of  the  same  name,  is  celebrated  for  its 
delicious  mangoes,  and  as  the  home  of  the  largest  tree  in  Mex- 
ico. It  stands  in  the  yard  of  the  Church  of  Tule  (consecrated 
to  La  Yirgen  de  la  Asuncion ) some  50  yards  from  the  terminus 
of  the  tram-line.  A fee  of  6 c.,  collected  by  the  municipality 
as  a road  tax,  is  charged  for  inspecting  the  tree. 

This  gigantic  cypress,  known  to  botanists  as  Taxodium  distichum  (Aztec 
— ahuchuctl )f  is  about  160  ft.  high,  and  is  one  of  the  largest  of  its  kind. 
Four  ft.  from  the  ground  the  trunk  measures  160  ft.  in  circumference, 
and  2S  persons  with  outstretched  arms  and  finger-tips  touching  can 
barely  encircle  it.  The  spread  of  the  colossal  branches  is  140  ft.  It  is 
known  throughout  Mexico  as  the  Great  Tree  ofTule,  and  it  is  supposed 
to  have  stood  here  for  a thousand  years  before  Columbus  discovered 
America.  It  sheltered  Heman  Cortes  and  his  soldiers  en  route  to  Hondu- 
ras nearly  four  centuries  ago,  and  at  that  time  its  giant  bulk  com- 
manded the  admiration  of  the  Spaniards.  In  point  of  size  the  Tule  tree 
resembles  the  great  Banyan  ( Ficus  Indica ) in  the  Botanical  Garden  at  Cal- 
cutta,  and  the  “Chestnut  Tree  of  a Hundred  Horses”  — said  to  be  the 
largest  tree  in  the  world  — at  the  foot  of  Mt.  Etna.  It  is  larger  than  any 
of  the  great  trees  n Chapultepec  Park,  at  Mexico  City,  the  monarch  of 
which  is  the  A rbol  de  Montezuma  (p.  384).  Baron  Alexander  Von  Hum - 
bold l was  so  impressed  by  the  gigantic  proportions  of  this  great  savin  — 
which  he  considered  a worthy  rival  of  the  huge  baobab  ( Adansonia 
digitata),  of  Africa,  believed  to  be  the  oldest  organic  monument  on 
the  globe  — that  he  inscribed  his  name  on  the  trunk  — an  inscription 
now  practically  undecipherable,  and  almost  overgrown  by  the  bark. 
A notice  posted  on  the  tree  warns  the  traveller  to  refrain  from  muti- 
lating it.  The  large  tree  at  the  side  of  the  ch.  in  the  yard  is  believed  to 
be  the  hi  jo  (son)  of  the  big  tree. 

We  continue  our  journey  in  a south-easterly  direction  across 
a level  and  smiling  valley,  dotted  with  many  trees  and  sown 
to  wheat,  corn  and  alfalfa.  The  next  point  of  interest,  Tlaco - 
chahuaya,  which  we  reach  at  9 a.  m.,  possesses  an  old  weather- 
beaten ch.  and  a market-place  swarming  with  country  Indians 
interestingly  garbed.  On  market  day  a score  or  more  primitive 
native  carts  with  huge,  greaseless  wheels  may  be  seen  lined 
up  in  the  plaza , like  so  many  prairie-schooners.  Ere  long  the 
white  towers  of  Tlacolula  (Zapotec  = glorious  place)  come 
into  the  range  of  vision,  and  we  reach  the  town  at  about  10.30. 
It  stands  in  a region  of  aboriginal  mounds,  with  many  high 
fences  of  organ  cacti.  The  stuffy  little  ch.,  in  a huge  yard,  is 
not  without  interest.  The  silver  chancel  railing  is  unusually 
rich  for  a country  ch.,  as  are  also  the  swinging  silver  lamps. 
The  pictures  are  quaint  but  without  artistic  merit.  The  largest 
chapel  is  decorated  in  the  style  of  the  ch.  of  Santo  Domingo  at 
( hi.raca,  and  is  a debased  copy  of  that  gorgeous  interior. 
Should  the  traveller  chance  to  pass  through  the  town  on  Fri- 
day of  Holy  Week  he  may  witness  a queer  Indian  Plume  dance 
(in  the  ch.  yard);  the  natives  who  take  part  wear  bizarre, 
pagan  costumes  and  masks.  Directly  behind  the  ch.  is  the 
highway  leading  away  to  Tehuantepec  (p.  554).  The  town  is 
also  the  point  of  departure  for  the  near-by  ruins  of  Gui-y-Baa, 


SAN  PABLO  MITLA  61.  Route.  537 


which  are  inferior  to  those  of  Mitla , and  which  will  scarcely 
repay  one  for  the  time  spent  in  visiting  them. 

Beyond  Tlacolula  the  road  becomes  roughish.  We  pass  some  high  cliffs 
on  the  left,  with  some  crude  picture-writing  on  the  walls.  From  here 
onward  the  highway  winds  through  a region  marked  with  vestiges  of  the 
ancient  Zapotec  civilization.  Most  of  the  natives  one  meets  refuse  to 
understand  spoken  Spanish.  At  the  head  of  a wide  and  romantically  sit- 
uated valley,  leading  away  to  the  1.,  we  descry  the  red-domed  ch.  of  San 
Pablo  Mitla.  We  descend  a sandy  hill,  cross  a dry,  boulder-strewn  river- 
bed, and  halt  before  the  squat  store  ( La  Sorpresa)  and  Hotel  of  Don 
Felix  Quero.  The  wide-spreading  wild-fig  trees  ( Higos  monteses),  which 
adorn  the  little  plaza , harbor  many  song-birds.  The  hotel  is  characteris- 
tically Mexican,  with  a charming  great  patio  — flower-embowered,  fra- 
grant and  restful. 

San  Pablo  Mitla  is  a small,  quaint  Zapotec  Indian  settle- 
ment, with  primitive  dwellings  overshadowed  by  flowering 
oleanders,  pomegranates,  orange  and  lemon  trees;  and  by 
organ  cacti  which  are  used  as  hedge-fences.  Nearly  all  the 
inhabitants  speak  the  Zapotec  dialect.  Strong  winds  are  apt 
to  blow  across  the  valley  in  Nov.  and  Dec.,  and  render  these 
months  unpleasant. 

Perhaps  the  best  guide  to  the  ruins  is  the  son  of  Senor  Quero.  A fee 
of  SI  for  an  individual  or  a party  is  ample.  The  conserve,  or  care-taker 
of  the  ruins,  who  carries  the  keys  to  the  underground  passages,  expects 
a small  fee  for  unlocking  the  doors : 25  c.  for  one  person  or  50  c.  for  a party 
is  enough.  Not  obligatory. 

The  Ruins,  which  can  be  explored  easily  in  1 hr.,  lie  \ M. 
back  of  the  hotel,  toward  the  N.-E.  Turn  to  the  1.  and  take  the 
road  (flanked  by  high  organ  cacti)  leading  away  from  the 
plaza.  A 3 min.  walk  brings  one  to  the  edge  of  a shallow  stream 
(misnamed  Rio  Grande ) in  a wide,  sandy  bed.  We  climb  the 
opposite  hill,  turn  to  the  r.  and  find  ourselves  in  the  midst  of 
the  first  group  of  ruins,  called  by  the  natives,  El  Quemazon 
(excessive  heat) . This  group  is  in  too  ruinous  a state  to  be  of 
sustained  interest. 

The  scorching  sun  of  southern  Mexico  has  preserved  the  Mitla  ruins 
so  that  they  are  in  much  the  same  condition  to-day  as  they  were  when 
the  Spaniards  discovered  them  nearly  four  centuries  ago.  In  architec- 
tural beauty  and  excellence  of  detail,  they  rank  lower  than  those  of 
Palenque  (p.  567)  or  Chichen-Itza  (p.  581),  but  they  are  nevertheless 
very  interesting.  Their  peculiar  and  elaborate  style  of  ornamentation 
will  give  the  traveller  a fairly  accurate  idea  of  the  degree  of  civilization 
reached  by  the  mysterious  people  who  dwelt  in  this  favored  region 
centuries  before  the  dawn  of  the  present  era.  Government  experts  guard 
the  ruins,  make  restorations,  and  check  vandalism.  Where  the  great 
stone  lintels  have  been  cracked  by  time  or  earthquakes,  strong  iron  sup- 
ports have  been  substituted.  The  efforts  to  preserve  the  tombs  from 
obliteration  are  commendable.  The  contrast  between  the  neatly-kept 
patio  of  the  hotel,  abloom  with  flowers,  and  the  arid  plain  of  powdery 
sand  on  which  the  ruins  stand,  is  striking  — one  typifying  life,  the  other 
death.  “The  gloomy  aspect  of  the  locality  accords  well  with  the  dread 
significance  of  the  name.  A stream,  with  parched  and  shadeless  banks, 
flows  through  the  valley;  no  birds  sing,  or  flowers  bloom,  over  the  se- 
pulchres of  the  Zapotec  heroes.” 

Climbing  a low  wall , we  proceed  across  the  deserted  open  to 
El  Patio  de  los  Cruceros  (of  the  crosses),  a walled-in  space 


5$  Route  61. 


RUINS  OF  MITLA 


w i i h a well-presented  cement  floor,  at  the  right  edge  of  which, 
iir.tr  the  base  of  the  wall,  is  a square  hole  with  a large  slanting 
- <»ne  which  once  closed  it,  and  an  iron  gate.  Dropping  into 
the  hole  we  bend  low,  pass  through  the  gate,  and  enter  a cruci- 
form subtcrraneo  re-discovered  hy  Prof.  Marshall  SavUle  in 
1901.  Of  the  three  crosses  the  largest  measures  about  12  ft.  in 
length,  5 ft.  in  width  and  6 ft.  in  height.  The  walls  are  of  cut 
stone  in  mosaic  patterns  similar  to  those  of  the  outer  walls. 
The  Indians  lend  an  ear  to  the  belief  that  an  underground 
pa  .-sage  leads  across,  and  beneath,  the  court  and  connects  with 
another  subterranean  chamber  wherein  is  stored  the  treasure 
of  the  ancient  Zapotec  kings.  Superstitious  fear  has  prevented 
further  explorations  — even  of  the  other  chambers,  which  the 
hollow  sounds  given  back  from  foot-falls  would  indicate  lie 
below  the  present  ones.  It  is  believed  that  the  present  sub- 
;>  rrancos  were  opened  and  rifled  by  the  Spaniards  who  first 
di> covered  the  ruins.  Traditions  aver  that  the  chambers  are 
filled  with  mummies. 

N on-credulous  relic-hunters,  who  in  times  past  have  dug  up  the  earth 
of  the  courts,  have  unearthed  pottery  in  many  shapes,  painted  urns, 
urr<  w-heads.  gold  jewellery  (good  specimens  in  the  Museo  at  Mex.  City) 
Yuri  :s  Zapotec  and  Miztec  relies.  The  Mexicans  believe  the  In- 
:un>  know  the  whereabouts  of  immense  treasure  hidden  amid  the 
ruins,  an  i that  fear  of  an  untimely  death  prevents  their  divulging  the 
seen  t.  From  time  to  time  bizarre  metal  ornaments,  antique  vessels  of 
g 1 . :md  silver,  and  other  curious  Indian  relics  are  found  in  the  vicinity.1 
Th*-v  usually  gravitate  to  private  museums  or  to  dealers  in  antiques 
in  Mexico  City.  Terra-cotta  figurines  and  funera-  urns  of  a high  order  of 
cr  'Uianship  have  been  brought  to  light.  The  tools  used  by  the  ancient 
/ were  of  copper  of  such  unusual  hardness  and  density  that  many 

< ut-ve  they  possessed  the  secret  of  tempering  this  metal.  Many  copper 
in-t  ruments  nave  been  found  in  the  vicinity,  chiefly  in  the  form  of  axes 
• 1 like  a Greek  Tau;  of  pure  copper,  very  thin  and  sharp.  The  old 
m.  • - v was  in  the  form  of  copper  discs.  Travellers  should  be  skeptical  of 
pseud. antiques  offered  for  sale  at  the  ruins. 

At  the  N.  end  of  the  court  is  another  subtcrraneo,  devoid  of 
interest.  We  ascend  a flight  of  reconstructed  steps  in  the 
wall  at  the  top  of  which  is  an  inscription  admonishing  travel- 
ler' to  aid  in  the  preservation  of  the  ruins.  The  Hall  of  the 
Monoliths,  with  its  six  tall  columns  and  its  unusually  massive 
walls  1-5  ft.  thick),  is  interesting.  The  lintels  over  the  en- 
trances are  cut  from  solid  blocks  of  stone  and  are  15-18  ft. 

* Of  unusual  interest  in  this  connection  is  the  fact  that  in  the  Fernando 
. ollcction  (recentlv  acquired  by  the  Mex.  Government),  now 
exh  bited  at  the  M t /seo  National  at  Mex.  City,  are  many  fine  pieces 
. p.  xciii  > from  Mitla;  also  a bronze  Chinese  idol  (found  in 
Hitch . ' "Ian,  near  Oaraca  City)  some  four  inches  high, 
i-takahly  of  Chinese  origin.  A Chinese  authority  estimates  its 
ag.  at  ynX)  years.  The  finding  of  this  relic,  perchance  the  cherished 
I"  "•  -~-i  »n  of  some  chief  who  lived  and  died  in  this  distant  corner  of 
< < nturies  before  the  Spanish  Conquest,  strengthens  the  theory 
■ * it  ; !,»•  Chinese  were  the  ancestors  of  the  Mayas  (p.  579),  and  that  they 
i • : • . t ne  humid  valleys  of  Mexico  and  Central  America  ages  before 
Christopher  Columbus  was  born. 


RUINS  OF  MITLA 


61.  Route.  539 


long,  about  4 ft.  high  and  5 ft.  thick.  The  colossal  porphyritic 
pillars  ranged  along  this  hall  are  3 ft.  in  diameter,  about  14  ft. 
high,  and  are  thought  to  penetrate  6 ft.  or  more  below  the 
surface.  They  were  once  ornamented  and  covered  with  mortar, 
and  it  is  thought  they  formerly  supported  the  palace  roof. 
They  have  neither  pedestal  nor  capital,  and  in  this  they  are 
unique,  being,  perchance,  the  only  examples  of  the  kind  found 
in  American  ruins.  They  were  raised  to  their  position  by  some 
process  of  engineering  unknown  to  the  present-day  Indians. 
Similar  stone  pillars  lie  scattered  about  the  ruins.  The  long, 
narrow,  open  space  flanking  the  Hall  of  the  Monoliths  is 
called  the  Salon  de  los  Monolitos.  It  is  some  20  ft.  wide,  a 
hundred  or  more  long,  with  walls  10  ft.  high,  and  with  a fine 
cement  floor.  Passing  through  an  iron  gate  (which  is  un- 
locked by  the  conserve),  we  traverse  a narrow  passage-way 
with  traces  (on  the  walls)  of  the  lustrous,  dark-red  paint  with 
which  the  cement  facing  was  once  covered.  Sections  of  this 
wall  recall  certain  highly  decorated  houses  in  Pompeii.  The 
iron  supports  of  the  doors  are  modern.  We  enter  the 

Corrector  de  los  Mosaicos  (Corridor  of  the  Mosaics),  one  of  the  most 
interesting  spots  in  the  ruins.  The  floors  have  cut  stone  borders  and 
show  evidence  of  having  been  covered  with  hard  cement.  A lively  imagi- 
nation could  trace  the  remains  of  a fountain  in  the  centre.  The  walls  are 
totally  unlike  the  Yucatan  ruins  (which  are  carved)  and  the  Palenque 
palaces  (celebrated  for  their  sculptures  and  bas-relief  work),  being  covered 
with  a sort  of  mosaic,  of  intricate  and  varied  patterns,  constructed  of 
pieces  of  stone  about  7 inches  in  length  and  1 inch  in  breadth,  accu- 
rately cut  and  fitted  into  the  face  of  the  wall,  where  some  of  them  are 
cemented.  The  outer  walls  of  the  ruins  bear  oblong  panels  of  these 
mosaics  in  the  form  of  grecques  and  arabesques.  The  figures  are  rect- 
angular and  diagonal,  and  these,  with  the  mosaics,  give  the  distinguish- 
ing character  to  the  Mitla  ruins.  In  certain  places  these  miniature  stone 
tiles  are  cut  with  such  nicety  as  to  require  no  adhesive  to  keep  them  in 
position,  and  no  mortar  is  used.  Measurements  taken  in  various  parts  of 
the  ruins  demonstrate  that  they  were  built  with  scientific  accuracy; 
some  of  the  walls  measure  true  to  a minute  fraction  of  an  inch. 

A little  to  the  N.  of  the  main  group  is  a half-demolished  temple  on 
to  which  a modern  stone  church  (Catholic)  has  been  grafted.  Adjoining 
it  is  the  house  of  the  padre  who  looks  after  the  spiritual  welfare  of  the 
Indians.  The  temple  is  284  ft.  long  and  108  ft.  wide,  with  walls  6 ft. 
thick.  Two  immense  stone  pillars,  12  ft.  high,  stand  near  the  doorway, 
at  the  back  of  the  new  ch.  The  walls  carry  the  same  diagonal  mosaic 
decorations,  and  one  portion,  now  used  as  a stable,  possesses  better 
specimens  of  color  painting,  in  red  and  black,  than  can  be  found  in  the 
main  group.  Hieroglyphs  resembling  those  of  Egypt  predominate  here, 
and  the  characters  (the  only  examples  of  ideographic  writing  found  in 
Mitla ) are  as  lustrous  as  when  the  color  was  (perhaps)  first  applied. 
The  sacristy  of  the  new  ch.  was  one  of  the  rooms  of  the  old  temple.  The 
tower  (completed  in  the  17th  cent.)  is  built  with  stones  from  the  orig- 
inal structure. 

On  the  return  from  the  ch.  and  stable,  we  get  a good  rear  view  of  the 
walls  with  their  elaborate  and  complicated  patterns.  Bearing  to  the 
r.  we  leave  the  ruins,  cross  the  shallow  river  at  a point  higher  up  than 
on  the  outward  journey,  climb  a stiffish  hill  on  the  opposite  bank,  and 
pause  to  examine  a subterraneo  on  the  outskirts  of  the  village.  This 
ruin,  called  El  Sepulchro  (the  sepulchre),  produced  some  small  gold 
bells  ( cascabeles ) not  long  since.  The  underground  chamber  is  adorned 
with  the  same  style  of  mosaic  work.  The  country  adjacent  to  Mitla  is 


540  Route  61.  HISTORY  OF  MITLA 


dotted  with  ancient  walls,  mounds  and  graves.  One  of  the  pyramidal 
mounds  is  75  ft.  high,  is  faced  with  stone,  and  is  reached  by  a series  of 
stone  steps:  a small  chapel  crowns  the  summit.  All  of  the  tombs  of  the 
region  look  toward  the  setting  sun  (emblematic  of  the  fading  life)  and 
some  contain  terra-cotta  idols,  usually  in  a sitting  posture. 

Some  2 M.  to  the  W.  is  the  Castle  of  Mitla,  crowning  an  isolated, 
precipitous  and  rocky  hill,  accessible  only  on  the  E.  side.  The  somewhat 
level  summit  is  enclosed  with  a ruinous  wall  of  hewn  stone,  21  ft.  thick 
and  18  ft.  high,  with  salient  and  retiring  angles,  and  with  curtains  in- 
terposed. On  the  E.  side  are  double  walls;  within  the  enclosure  are  sev- 
eral small  buildings  in  a state  of  decay.  The  field  of  these  ruins  three 
centuries  ago  was  evidently  very  large.  Razed  defences,  dwellings,  great 
heaps  of  stones  and  fragments  of  pottery  are  strewn  about;  the  stones 
massed  evidently  to  serve  as  projectiles.  Near  the  battlements  great 
rocks  are  poised,  ready  to  be  toppled  upon  an  enemy  attacking  from 
below.  The  fortifications  follow  the  contour  of  the  hill  and  present  at 
every  point  a perpendicular  face  to  assailants.  Hill-top  fighting  was  in 
vogue  among  Southern  Mexican  Indians  before  the  Conquest,  and  the 
many  huge  parcdones  (walls)  found  adjacent  to  Mitla  suggest  the  belief 
that  it  was  practised  by  the  Zapotecs.  In  some  cases  these  walls  are 
pierced  by  tombs,  conveying  the  idea  that  they  were  used  both  for  de- 
fence and  as  burying  places  for  the  dead.  A Zapotec  tradition  relates  that 
in  the  early  days  a sanguinary  battle  was  fought  here  for  the  possession 
of  Montezuma's  daughter.  The  Kings  of  the  Zapotecs  and  the  Mizlecs 
wanted  her  for  their  respective  sons:  she  was  given  to  the  Zapotecan 
monarch,  whereupon  the  Miztec  king  made  war  upon  him  and  was  de- 
feated with  heavy  loss. 

Not  far  from  Mitla  is  the  (uninteresting)  village  of  Teotitlan  (Dwelling 
of  the  Gods),  so  called  because  the  chief  paba  of  the  Miztecas  once  had 
hi-  residence  on  a hill  in  the  vicinity.  Beneath  the  house  on  the  Hacienda 
d>  Saga  ( 1 league  distant)  is  an  interesting  suhterraneo  believed  to  have 
been  the  tomb  of  an  Indian  cacique.  It  was  discovered  by  a servant  who 
saw  a phosphorescent  light  hovering  above  a small  aperture  in  the  main 
hall.  An  excavation  revealed  an  extensive  cruciform  chamber  with  the 
arms  of  ( he  cross  30  ft.  or  more  in  length;  three  skeletons  therein  crum- 
bled to  dust  on  exposure  to  the  outer  air.  The  sides  of  the  chamber  are 
formed  of  great  stone  blocks,  5 ft.  in  height,  ornamented  after  the  fash- 
ion of  the  Mitla  cruceros.  Hieroglyphs,  painted  a bright  red,  with  burn- 
ished bases  and  carved  in  the  solid  stone,  take  the  place  of  mosaics. 
Several  open  cruceros  lie  wdthin  easy  walking  distance  of  Mitla,  but  the 
traveller  will  scarcely  be  repaid  for  visiting  them,  unless  specially  in- 
terested. l’erhaps  the  finest  one  is  on  the  sloping  side  of  Mt.  Girun. 

History.  The  Ruins  of  Mitla  (called  by  the  Aztecs  Mictlan  — hell, 
or  a place  of  sadness,  and  by  the  Zapotecs,  Leoba  — tomb)  first  appear 
in  history  in  the  account  of  them  by  the  Spanish  cleric  Fray  Martin  de 
l alone  in , who  visited  the  region  en  route  to  Tehuantepec  in  1533.  “We 
pn  - ed  i says  he)  through  a pueblo,  in  the  Valley  of  Tlacolula,  which  is 
called  Mbtlan,  where  were  found  some  edifices  more  worth  seeing  than 
anything  else  in  New  Spain.  ( Palenque , Uxmal  and  Chichen-Itza  were 
then  unknown  to  the  Spaniards.)  Among  them  was  a temple  of  the  de- 
nii>n,  and  the  dwelling  of  its  attendant  — very  sightly,  particularly  one 
hall  made  of  something  like  lattice-work.  The  fabric  was  of  stone  with 
many  figures  and  shapes:  it  had  many  doorways,  each  one  built  of  three 

frrat  tones,  two  at  the  sides  and  one  at  the  top,  all  very  thick  and  wide. 

n th<  e quarters  there  was  another  hall  containing  round  pillars,  each 
one  of  a single  piece,  and  so  thick  that  two  men  could  barely  embrace 
them;  their  height  might  be  five  fathoms.” 

The  first  interest  shown  by  the  Mex.  Government  in  the  ruins  was  in 
1 S02  when  Don  Luis  Martin  and  Colonel  de  Laguna  explored  them. 
Baron  Alexander  Von  Humboldt  visited  them  about  this  time. and  was 
much  impressed  by  their  magnificence.  He  says  ( Political  Essay  on 
Sew  Spain,  vol.  ii,  pp.  239-40):  ‘‘What  distinguish  the  ruins  of  Mitla 
from  all  the  other  remains  of  Mexican  architecture  are  six  porphyry  col- 
umn-, which  are  placed  in  the  midst  of  a vast  hall,  and  support  the 
ceiling  These  columns,  almost  the  only  ones  found  in  the  new'  conti- 


OAXACA  DE  JUAREZ  61.  Route . 541 


nent,  bear  strong  marks  of  the  infancy  of  the  art.  They  have  neither 
base  nor  capitals.  . . . The  distribution  of  the  apartments  in  the  in- 
terior of  this  singular  edifice  bears  a striking  analogy  to  what  has  been 
remarked  in  the  monuments  of  Upper  Egypt.” 

The  French  explorer  Dupaix  visited  the  ruins  in  1806,  and  in  1830 
the  German  traveller  Muhlenpfordt  made  plans  and  drawings  (originals 
in  the  Institute  at  Oaxaca  City)  which  were  published.  The  French 
archaeologist  Charnay  explored  and  photographed  the  groups  in  1850. 
Hubert  Howe  Bancroft  speaks  of  them  ( Native  Races , vol.  iv,  p.  389)  as 
the  finest  group  in  the  whole  Mexican  territory.  “ I am  inclined  to  be- 
lieve (says  he)  that  Mitla  was  built  at  a very  early  period  of  their  civi- 
lization, at  a time  when  the  builders  were  strongly  influenced  by  the 
Maya  priesthood,  if  they  were  not  themselves  a branch  of  the  Maya 
people.” 

“The  Ruins  called  Mitla,”  says  Baldwin  {Ancient  America,  pp.  117- 
22),  “are  situated  in  the  upper  part  of  a great  valley,  and  surrounded  by 
a waste,  uncultivated  region.  At  the  time  of  the  Spanish  Conquest  they 
were  old  and  much  worn  by  time  and  the  elements,  but  a very  large 
area  was  then  covered  by  remains  of  ancient  buildings.  But  what  is  most 
remarkable,  interesting  and  striking  in  these  monuments,  and  which 
alone  would  be  sufficient  to  give  them  first  rank  among  all  known  orders 
of  architecture,  is  the  execution  of  their  mosaic  relievos  — very  different 
from  plain  mosaic,  and  consequently  requiring  more  ingenious  combi- 
nation, and  greater  art  and  labor.  They  are  inlaid  on  the  surface  of  the 
wall,  and  their  duration  is  owing  to  the  method  of  fixing  the  prepared 
stone  into  stone  surfaces,  which  made  their  union  perfect.  These  ruins 
are  remarkable  among  those  of  the  country  where  they  are  found.  One 
fact  presented  by  some  of  the  edifices  at  Mitla  has  a certain  degree  of 
historical  significance:  there  appears  to  be  evidence  that  they  were  oc- 
cupied at  some  period  by  people  less  advanced  in  civilization  than  their 
builders.  Lying  between  two  great  groups  entirely  different  in  the  archi- 
tecture of  their  original  buildings,  this  Mitla  assemblage  of  stone  and 
structures  possesses  peculiarities  belonging  neither  to  those  of  Yucatan, 
to  the  N.-E.,  nor  to  those  of  Central  America  to  the  S.-W.  Though 
from  its  geographic  position  it  should  form  a connecting  link  between 
the  two  great  systems,  yet  it  does  not,  but  stands  out  peculiarly  con- 
spicuous for  its  singularities  of  architecture  and  ornament.”  (In  addi- 
tion to  the  authorities  mentioned  the  student  may  consult : Humboldt’s 
Nouvelles  Annales  de  Voyages;  Charney’s  Ruines  Americaines ; Muh- 
lenpfordt’s  Mejico ; Bradford’s  American  Antiquities ; Brantz  Meyer’s 
Mexico  A sit  Was;  Lemprifere’s  Mexique;  Delafield’s  American  Antiquities; 
Prescott’s  Conquest  of  Mexico .) 

Oaxaca  de  Juarez  (one  of  the  most  important  maritime  Estados 
del  Pacifico , with  a pop.  of  986,000  and  an  area  of  91,664  sqr.  kilom.; 
birthplace  of  the  patriot  Benito  Juarez)  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  states 
of  Puebla  and  Vera  Cruz , on  the  E.  by  Chiapas , on  the  W.  by  Guerrero 
and  on  the  S.  by  the  Pacific  Ocean  The  coast-line,  which  describes  a 
curve  with  the  convexity  toward  the  S.,  thus  aiding  to  form  the  narrow- 
est part  of  the  Mex.  territory,  is  low,  sandy,  and  measures  410  kilom. 
The  state  is  divided  into  26  political  divisions  with  8 cities,  32  towns, 
1084  villages,  156  haciendas  and  812  ranches.  Within  its  borders  is  the 
old  and  picturesque  town  of  Tehuantepec , described  at  p.  554.  The  region 
is  rich  but.  extremely  mountainous;  the  highest  peak  is  Zempoaltepetl 
( zempoal  — twenty,  and  tepetl  — mountain),  also  called  Zempoaltepec. 
From  the  summit  (11,965  ft.)  of  this  towering  giant  one  may  enjoy  the 
unusual  experience  of  looking  clear  across  the  continent;  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico  is  visible  on  the  E.  and  the  Pacific  Ocean  on  the  W.  Few  mts. 
of  the  world  offer  a grander  tropical  panorama  than  Zempoaltepec  (easily 
scaled  in  summer),  which  should  be  climbed  if  only  for  the  sake  of  the 
view.  (Trips  to  the  summit  can  be  planned  at  a reasonable  cost  with  the 
aid  of  the  hotel  management  in  Oaxaca  City.)  The  Pico  de  Orizaba , 
Malinche,  Popocatepetl  and  many  lesser  peaks  are  visible  from  the  crest. 
Various  arms  of  the  Sierra  Madre  reach  out  from  Zempoaltepec  and  cul- 
minate in  a number  of  minor  peaks  within  the  state.  Manv  of  the  lesser 
peaks  are  10,000  or  more  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  seismatic 


542  Route  61. 


INDIAN  TRIBES 


disturbances  which  frequently  agitate  the  state  apparently  start  from 
'/  n ipixiUepec  and  terminate  in  the  city  of  Tehuantepec.  The  mt.  sides 
are  covered  with  a rich  and  varied  vegetation  that  embraces  the  pro- 
ducts of  all  the  zones.  Several  splendid  streams  spring  from  the  higher 
levels,  fertilize  the  low-lying  vales  and  plains,  then  pour  their  waters 
into  the  adjacent  oceans. 

The  fertility  of  the  region  is  amazing;  few  of  the  Mex.  states  possess 
greater  natural  resources  and  few  are  less  developed.  Magnificent  trop- 
ical  iorests  cluster  about  the  base  of  the  mts.,  and  from  greater  heights, 
splendid  pine-groves  look  down  upon  them.  The  humid  valleys  between 
the  ridges  are  natural;  wild  gardens  of  great  beauty  and  variety.  One  of 
the  finest  of  these  valleys  occupies  the  greater  part  of  the  central  portion 
of  the  state  and  is  known  as  the  Valley  of  Oaxaca,  or  Antequera.  Between 
the  sun-scorched  sands  of  the  littoral,  and  the  cold  regions  of  the  peaks, 
almost  every  variety  of  tree  known  to  the  different  zones  is  found.  Some 
of  them  produce  magnificent  dye  and  cabinet  woods.  Coffee,  indigo, 
vanilla,  cochineal  (p.  543),  cacao,  rice,  cotton,  sugar-cane,  oils,  fibres, 
Lr  1 1.  iron,  lead,  coal,  marble,  onyx,  and  salt  are  among  the  products. 
The  celebrated  tobacco  district  of  El  VaUe  Nacional  produces  some  of 
the  finest  tobacco  known.  Cortes  obtained  gold  from  several  of  the  rich 
mines,  of  which  there  are  many.  The  fruits,  medicinal  plants  and  flowers 
are  almost  countless. 

The  Fauna  is  varied  and  interesting.  Wild  animals  abound  in  the 
virgin  forests,  many  of  which  have  perhaps  never  been  penetrated  by 
civilized  men.  Jaguars,  leopards,  pumas,  tapirs,  wolves,  foxes  and  what- 
not roam  the  woods,  unhunted  by  man,  and  many  birds  of  beautiful 
plumage  give  voice  and  color  to  the  forests.  Boa-constrictors  and  minor 
reptilia  are  indigenous  to  the  region;  also  the  dreaded  alacranes,  taran- 
tui  :uid  garrap.itas.  Crocodiles  and  alligators  infest  the  tropical  rivers, 
and  the  adjacent  sea  produces  mother-of-pearl,  pearl-oysters  (p.  87) 
and  a multiplicity  of  fishes.  Goat-raising  is  a growing  industry  in  the 
.V  hitltin  district,  and  the  extraction  of  maguey  fibre  (known  as  pita 
de  Oaxaca ) is  one  of  the  many  sources  of  wealth.  Considerable  chocolate 
is  manufactured.  The  Valley  of  Puebla  Magdalena  (Province  of  Etla) 
possesses  onyx-mines  which  produce  onyx  of  great  beauty  and  variety. 
As  the  state  lies  between  16°  and  18°  N.  of  the  equator,  the  climate  is 
consequently  that  of  the  torrid  zone.  A cooler  temperature  is  found  on 
the  mt.  acclivities,  while  ice  is  brought  down  from  the  tall  peaks  by  the 
natives.  It  is  cold  throughout  almost  the  entire  region  of  the  Mixteca 
Alta,  and  temperate  in  the  Valley  of  Oaxaca. 

Within  the  state  are  many  highly  interesting  and  picturesque  Indian 
ruins,  chief  among  them  Mitla,  described  at  p.  537.  Near  Teotitldn, 
deep  in  the  mts.,  is  a curious  cave,  once  the  Mecca  of  the  oracles  of  the 
XaK.nis,  who  went  hither  to  consult  Maxclas  (Spirit  of  the  Shadows), 
regarding  the  future  of  the  Nahoa  tribe.  At  Tehuantepec  (p.  554)  there 
nrc  pyramids  (Kuins  of  Guerenguela)  with  stairs,  fortresses,  underground 
tomb',  j>ottcry,  etc.  At  Magdalena  there  is  a statue  of  Vixepecocha,  a 
prophet.  P eta  pa  possesses  caves  with  painted  walls:  Loallaga 
mounds  and  hieroglyphics;  Chihuitldn  an  ancient  bridge;  Guatulco  a 
prehistoric  mound  and  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  city;  Tlacolula  an  an- 
« icnt  mound : Quiyechapa  a ruined  fortress;  Etla  underground  tombs  and 
i 7 Petioles  skulls  preserved  in  lime;  Quilapan  a number  of  unex- 

plored mounds;  Monte  Alban  (p.  534)  is  a fortified  holy  place  with  sub- 
terranean chambers,  pyramids  and  hieroglyphics;  Zachila  has  mounds, 
burnt  t ricks,  walls  and  statues  : Quiotepcc  possesses  a hill  covered  with 
ruin'  from  which  some  fine  jadeite,  obsidian  and  jewellery  have  been 
taken),  platforms,  terraced  walls  and  a pyramid;  Hualmapam  sculptures 
in  1<  \\  relief,  pottery  and  gold  objects,  and  YanghtUan,  sculptured  hu- 
man figures. 

The  principal  Indian  Tribes  (of  which  there  are  about  15)  of  the  state 

mUy);  ChaEnos  ( Z . F. 

(Z.  F.):  Chontals  (Tequistlatecan  F) : Mazatecos  ( Zapotecan  F .)  ; Miles 
( Zoquean  F.)  ; Xetzichos  (Zapotecan  F.);  Pirwmes  (Zoquean  F.) : Papo- 
lucas  Zap.  F.  ; Tepmscoltda  (Z.  F.)  : and  the  Zapotecs,  of  which  there  are 
many  branches.  Most  prominent  are  the  Mixtecos  (Zap.  F.).  These 


COCHINEAL 


61.  Route.  543 


Mixteco-Zapoteca  number  (census  of  1900)  about  580,000.  The  language 
is  spoken  in  Tehuantepec;  the  ruins  of  Mitla  are  within  the  Zapotecan 
territory. 

One  of  the  Oaxaca  towns,  Juchitan  (Toltec,  Xochitl  — flower,  and 
tlan  — place),  is  celebrated  as  the  home  of  a beautiful  flower,  called  by 
the  Aztecs,  Tlapalizqui-xochitl  — (the  Macpalxochitl  or  claw-tree,  of 
the  Cheirostemon  platani folium  of  the  Bombaceas),  supposed  to  be  me- 
dicinal, and  venerated  by  the  natives.  The  tree  bears  a curious  and 
beautiful  red  flower,  the  centre  of  which  is  in  the  form  of  a hand  with 
the  fingers  bent  a little  inward.  Foreigners  know  it  as  the  Arbol  de  las 
Manitas  (tree  of  the  little  .hands).  The  flower  is  most  abundant  in  the 
small  pueblo  of  Yucuahe  San  Bartolome,  where  it  is  commonly  called  Flor 
de  Yucuahe.  It  was  once  the  cause  of  a savage  war  between  Montezuma 
II  and  the  Miztecan  Lord  Malinal:  the  Aztec  emperor,  struck  by  the 
singular  beauty  of  the  flower,  ordered  that  specimens  be  sent  him.  The 
refusal  provoked  a war  which  resulted  in  disaster  to  the  Miztecs.  The 
statement  of  certain  writers  that  but  two  of  these  trees  exist  in  the  Re- 
public (one  in  Toluca,  the  other  in  Mexico  City)  is  incorrect. 

Cochineal.  The  Indian  village  of  Culiapdn,  near  Oaxaca  City,  is  the 
original  home  of  the  cochineal  industry.  There,  at  an  unknown  date, 
the  early  Miztecs  or  the  Zapotecs  discovered  that  the  dried  bodies  of  the 
female  cochineal  ( Coccus  cacti)  were  a superior  substitute  for  the  ker- 
mes,  or  scarlet  grain  (the  modern  rival  of  the  famed  Tyrian  purple), 
used  by  them  to  impart  the  rich  and  lasting  dyes  to  their  sarapes  and 
other  cloths.  Until  1703,  when  a German  scientist  ( Leeuwenhoeck ) dis- 
covered Coccus  cacti  to  be  an  insect,  it  was  believed  to  be  a seed  or  bloom 
of  the  plant.  These  insects,  which  formerly  throve  in  countless  numbers 
in  the  warm  valley  of  Oaxaca,  were  gathered  by  the  Indians  and  used  in 
an  industry  that  made  the  district  world-famous.  Albeit  cochineal  has 
been  supplanted  largely  by  aniline  dyes,  the  Oaxaca  Indians  still  employ 
the  insects  to  dye  the  richly  colored  (and  very  desirable)  sarapes  made 
in  their  home  workshops.  The  insects  feed  on  the  leaves  of  the  Opuntia 
cochinillif era.  (sometimes  called  the  cochineal  fig)  and  other  cacti  closely 
allied  to  the  nopals  (p.  lxxxv).  They  remain  attached  to  the  spot  on  the 
leaf  where  they  were  hatched,  and  their  bodies  grow  rapidly  as  they  ab- 
sorb the  juice  of  the  cacti,  until  legs,  antennae,  and  proboscis  can  hardly 
be  distinguished  by  the  naked  eye.  They  are  so  small  that  70,000  or 
more,  in  the  dried  state,  weigh  but  a single  pound.  The  females,  which 
alone  produce  the  dye,  contain  the  greatest  amount  of  coloring  matter  im- 
mediately prior  to  the  escape  of  the  young  from  the  egg.  They  are  then 
detached  from  the  plant  and  killed  by  being  placed  in  boiling  water  or 
in  hot  ovens.  Afterwards,  they  are  placed  in  the  sun,  on  sheet-iron  plates, 
until  they  are  perfectly  dried,  when  they  are  marketed  in  1 oz.,  £ lb. 
and  1 lb.  packages.  Those  killed  in  ovens  develop  a grayish  red  color  and 
are  known  as  silver-cochineal.  During  the  rainy  season  many  of  the 
little  insects  (which  multiply  rapidly)  are  washed  off  the  plants.  About 
six  weeks  after  the  commencement  of  the  dry  season  they  are  found  in 
sufficient  numbers  to  be  harvested.  The  Indians  make  the  rounds  of 
the  nopalry  with  a wide-mouthed  bag  and  a brush,  and  with  the  latter 
they  sweep  thousands  of  the  tiny  specks  into  the  bag.  Three  harvests 
are  gathered  during  the  seven  months  of  dry  weather.  The  minute  crea- 
tures bear  a strong  resemblance  to  a milliped  insect  common  in  the 
U.  S.  A.  and  known  as  the  wood-louse  — an  insect  of  the  genus  Oniscus , 
and  not  to  be  confounded  with  Pediculus  capitis.  The  Indians  affirm  that 
Oaxaca  state  was  the  original  habitat  of  the  cochineal  insect  (Spanish 
cochinilla ) and  that  it  was  taken  thence  to  Guatemala  and  the  Canaries. 
It  is  plentiful  on  the  wild  cacti  of  New  Mexico,  Texas  and  Southern  Cali- 
fornia, but  the  dyes  produced  from  it  are  pale  in  comparison  to  those  of 
Oaxaca.  It  is  said  that  the  splendid  mantas  used  by  Montezuma  and 
the  Aztec  nobles  were  dyed  with  cochineal. 


IX.  SOUTHERN  MEXICO, 


62.  From  Cordoba  to  Santa  Lucrecia  (thence  to 

points  on  the  Tehuantepec  National,  and  the  Pan- 
American  Railways) 544 

Banana  Culture,  545.  — Sugar-Cane,  546.  — The  Valle 
N acional,  547.  — The  Melon  Zapote,  548.  — Bird 
Life,  549. 

63.  From  Coatzacoalcos  (Puerto  Mexico)  via  Santa 

Lucrecia,  Rincon  Antonio  and  Tehuantepec,  to 
Salina  Cruz 550 

The  Indian  Village  of  San  Juan,  554.  — Tehuantepec 
City,  554.  — Salina  Cruz,  556.  — History,  557.  — The 
Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec,  557. 

64.  From  San  Geronimo  to  the  Guatemalan  Frontier  . 558 

65.  State  of  Tabasco 560 

San  Juan  Bautista,  560.  — Rubber  Culture,  561. 

66.  State  of  Chiapas 563 

Orchids,  564.  — Historj7  of  Chiapas,  565.  — Ruins  of 
Palenque,  566.  — Tuxtla  Gutierrez,  568. 

67.  State  of  Campeche 569 

The  Log-Wood  Tree,  569.  — City  of  Campeche,  570.  — 
Excursion  to  the  Cenotes  of  Bolonchen,  570. 


62.  From  Cordoba  to  Santa  Lucrecia  {thence  to 

points  on  the  Tehuantepec  National  and  the  Pan- 
American  Railways ). 

VERA  CRUZ  AND  ISTHMUS  RAILWAY. 
(FERROCARRIL  VERA  CRUZ  AL  I ST  MO) 

Operated  by  the  National  Railways  of  Mexico. 

-■  Kflomn. — 205  M. — in  about  12  his.  Santa  Lncrecia, 
t ; • connecting  point  with  the  Tehuantepec  National  Railway.  In  normal 
tit:.* the  Pullman  cars  (good  buffet  service)  run  through  to  Salina  Cmz 
•he  Pacific  Ocean  terminus  of  the  Tehuantepec  Rlv.)  without  change. 
Travellers  arriving  at  Vera  Cruz  can  board  a train  there  for  (93  Kiloms. 
fr<  it  * Cdrdoba  Tierra  Blanca,  a junction  on  the  V.  C.  & Isthmus  Line. 
I - tin  • r ard  showing  arrival  and  departure  of  trains,  fares,  etc.  etc.,  con- 
•*'  dt  the  rlv.  folder  or  the  Guia  Oficial.  — The  line  traverses  an  attractive 
tropical  country  well  worth  seeing  by  daylight. . 

C6rdoba,  see  p.  486.  The  rlv.  describes  a wide  curve  to  the 
L l ine  views  (unobstructed)  of  the  Pico  de  Orizaba  on  the  r. 
The  landscape  in  which  the  volcano  is  the  crowning  point  is 
Hiperb.  10  K.  Guadalupe . Extensive  pine-apple  plantations 
spread  out  on  each  side  of  the  line,  stretch  away  to  the  distant 
hills  and  alternate  with  well  cultivated  sugar-estates.  Sugar- 
mills  can  be  seen  busily  at  work  on  some  of  the  plantations. 
Cloud-capped  mts.  cut  the  W.  sky-line;  from  their  green  ac- 


BANANAS 


62.  Route.  545 


clivities  many  boisterous  streams  race  down  to  irrigate  the 
meadow-lands.  There  is  no  necessity  for  artificial  irrigation 
here  as  the  country  is  splendidly  watered:  the  dews  are  so 
heavy  that  they  resemble  slight  rainfalls : in  the  early  morning 
before  the  sun  has  absorbed  the  moisture  the  vegetation  and 
the  land  are  drenched  as  by  a shower.  The  moist  earth  shows 
a deep  red  against  the  green  foliage,  and  every  foot  of  it  pro- 
duces some  form  of  vigorous  plant  life.  These  rich,  alluvial 
plains,  which  bask  in  the  never-failing,  all-vivifying  sun, 
know  no  agricultural  repose.  The  production  is  almost  in- 
credible under  the  combined  influence  of  heat  and  moisture. 
Many  of  the  tall  trees  develop  some  species  of  bloom  and  they 
stand  out  in  great  color  blotches  against  the  environing 
green.  Miles  of  the  lowlands  are  devoted  to  banana  culture; 
bananas  being  the  great  staple  of  the  district.  From  this  region 
come  many  of  the  bananas  sold  in  the  great  fruit  markets  of 
the  capital. 

The  Banana  and  Plantain,  Musa  sapientum  and  Musa  paradisiaca, 
thrive  everywhere  in  the  hot  coast  region  and  on  the  lower  borders  of 
the  temperate  land.  It  is  said  that  the  first  banana  was  brought  to 
America  by  a Dominican,  in  1516,  from  the  Canaries  to  Haiti,  whence 
the  plants  reached  the  Continent.  The  name  Platano , of  the  Spanish, 
is  supposed  to  be  derived  from  Palon,  its  most  ancient  name  (or  from 
the  Latin  platanus );  Banane,  the  French,  from  its  native  Guinea  appella- 
tion, and  Musa , the  Italian,  is  perhaps  taken  from  the  Arabic.  These 
plants,  like  the  agave  and  cocoa-palm,  are  very  useful  to  man  in  many 
ways;  for  besides  producing  delicious  fruit,  they  furnish  material,  from 
stalk  and  leaves,  for  paper,  cordage,  etc.  From  a year  to  18  months  is 
required  to  ripen  the  fruit  from  the  first  planting,  but  as  suckers  spring 
up  all  about  the  original  stock,  there  is  afterwards  no  labor,  except  that 
of  gathering  the  immense  bunches  of  fruit,  some  of  which  attain  to  80  lbs. 
weight.  The  banana,  it  is  said,  produces  to  the  acre  44  times  as  much 
food  as  the  potato,  and  130  times  as  much  as  wheat.  In  this  region  one 
acre  contains  usually  600  to  800  plants  which  yield  annually  a rich 
harvest  of  fruit.  Most  of  this  is  packed  and  shipped  while  green  to  be 
ripened  artificially  at  its  destination.  Charcoal  fires  and  hermetically 
sealed  rooms  are  employed,  and  two  days  are  required  to  ripen  green 
fruit.  That  picked  ripe  from  the  plant  possesses  a flavor  seldom  found 
in  the  artificially  matured  specimens.  The  long,  yellow  plantain  is  cooked 
before  eaten:  the  short  yellow  fruit  ( Dominico ) and  the  fat  red  ( morado ) 
grow  in  the  greatest  abundance. 

24  K.  Xuchiles.  We  enter  the  canon  of  the  Rio  Blanco.  In  some  places 
magnificent  trees  festooned  with  flowering  creepers  clothe  the  slopes  of 
the  gorge  to  the  water’s  edge,  whence  they  reach  out  vine-clad  arms  that 
meet  and  entwine  themselves  above  the  centre.  The  scenery  becomes 
wild  and  tropical.  Conspicuous  figures  in  the  warm  pockets  of  the 
canon  are  the  dense  patches  of  bamboo;  the  canes  30  or  40  ft.  high  — 
like  great  plumed  carriage- whips;  the  culms  often  as  thick  as  a man’s 
thigh,  while  the  Parra- grass  beneath  sends  up  blades  10  ft.  high  and  seed 
stalks  10  to  15  ft.  In  some  of  these  jungle  patches  are  fishing-poles 
enough  to  supply  every  piscatorially-inclined  boy  in  a populous  city. 
From  one  side  of  the  canon  wall,  not  over  20  ft.  from  the  track,  a fine 
stream  of  water  gushes  out  of  a darksome  cave,  plunging  beneath  the 
rails  and  wetting  the  cars  as  they  pass.  During  the  rainy  season  this 
stream,  Las  Siete  Aquas  (The  Seven  Waters),  bursts  in  full  volume  from 
its  mysterious  source  and  presents  an  inspiring  sight.  To  the  r.  of  the 
line  the  booming  Rio  Blanco  runs  like  a mill-race  through  a narrow 
gorge.  The  downward  slope  is  sharp  and  the  splendid  forest  trees  which 
flank  the  river  edge  seem  to  rise  to  unusual  heights. 


546  Route  62. 


SUGAR-CANE 


As  the  ravine  deepens  the  vegetation  becomes  more  tropical,  and  in 
the  thickening  jungle  one  observes  many  birds  that  are  strangers  to 
ill*-  i-.ilder  highlands.  Splendid  specimens  of  the  Belted-Kingfisher  dart  up 
an  : down  t lie  stream  or  sit  in  watchful  attitudes  on  stones  or  projecting 
i,  : : Trogons.  Motmots  (with  pendulum-like  tails)  Parrots,  Laughing 

, Chac  alac  is,  Long-Tailed  Blue  Jays,  Painted  Redstarts,  He- 
pa’ii-  Tanagers,  Rufous  Humming-Birds  and  almost  numberless  speci- 
mcns  of  the  remarkable  avifauna  of  the  district  reward  the  watchful  eye. 
The  botanist,  the  entomologist,  and  the  ornithologically  inclined  trav- 
eller long  to  leave  the  train  here,  pitch  a camp  beside  the  brawling 
river  and  study  the  teeming  insect,  plant  and  bird  life  which  enlivens 
the  place.  In  the  lower  reaches  of  the  canon,  the  river  broadens  and  the 
tram  crosses  it  on  a crescent-shaped  bridge.  Here  a charming  view  of 
t he  river  is  had  as  it  dashes  down  its  rocky  course  and  swirls  and  bubbles 
beneath  the  old  stone  arches.  By  crossing  to  the  1.  side  of  the  train  as  it 

■ iuits  the  bridge  one  gets  a last  look  at  this  erstwhile  turbulent  stream, 
changed  now  into  a placid  river  which  flows  away  broadly  beneath  tall, 
overhanging  trees  and  flower-decked,  meadow-like  banks.  28  K.  Omealco. 

35  K.  Presidio.  Cane-fields  stretch  away  as  far  as  the  eye 
can  reach,  and  great  quantities  of  sugar  are  produced  in  the 
region.  Every  fat-paunched  youngster  visible  hereabout  ap- 
pears to  be  chewing  a segment  of  the  sweet  cane  into  the  sem- 
I dance  of  a primitive  paint  brush.  42  K.  Motzorongo.  Sugar  is 
the  great  staple,  and  the  attention  of  every  one  is  apparently 
devoted  to  its  production.  The  fertile  valleys  and  plains  of 
the  environing  country  are  rich  in  the  fine  mould  demanded 
by  the  plant,  which  here  attains  a high  state  of  perfection. 

The  first  Sugar-Cane  was  brought  to  Mexico  (1540)  from  the  Canary 
L'  .rids  via  Santo  Domingo , where  the  Spaniards  cultivated  it  as  early  as 
1520.  Prior  to  its  introduction  the  Mexicans  and  Indians  extracted 
sweets  from  native  honey,  the  honey-ant,  from  the  agave,  and  from  the 
sweet  pith  of  the  maize  — an  indigenous  plant.  Three  varieties  of  the 
cane  are  now  grown:  the  Castilian,  Havana,  and  Otaheite.  The  first  is 
not  so  rich  in  juice  as  the  others  but  is  full  of  saccharine  matter.  The 
1».  • - 1 manufactured  article  is  produced  from  a mixture  of  the  three  kinds. 
'Hie  methods  of  culture,  the  crushing  process,  and  the  crystallization 
are  modern,  similar  to  those  practiced  in  other  progressive,  sugar-pro- 

■ 1 'icing  countries.  There  are  about  775  sugar-cane  plantations  in  the 
Itepub.,  and  t he  annual  production  of  sugar  is  about  120,000  tons. 

is  K.  Tezonapa.  Fields  of  bright  green  sugar-cane  alternate 
with  broad  meadows.  Glistening  ponds  alive  with  ducks, 
boat-billed  herons,  graceful  egrets,  and  tall,  watchful  cranes, 
become  features  of  the  landscape.  Near  these  shallow  seas 
and  beneath  the  noble  trees  which  dot  the  plains,  bunches  of 
half-wild  bronchos  and  sleek,  fat  cattle  browse  and  wage  a 
perpetual  war  on  their  insect  enemies.  The  land  hereabout 
recalls  certain  fat  farms  in  Bourbon  County,  Kentucky  — the 
t all,  wide-spreading  trees  free  of  underbrush,  the  well-rounded 
short-horn  cattle  standing  beneath  them,  and  the  general  air 
of  fertility  and  abundance  warranting  the  comparison.  The 
Rip  Cosolapa , one  of  the  many  streams  which  flow  through 
this  finely  watered  district,  is  crossed  on  a high  bridge.  52  K. 
Refugio.  59  K.  Millan.  60  K.  Cantera.  61  K.  Acatlan. 

f>7  K.  Spur.  The  stations  are  numerous,  though  small,  but  the  beau- 
tiful landscape  makes  up  for  deficiencies.  Between  this  point  and  Tierra 


CORDOBA  TO  THE  ISTHMUS  62.  Rte.  547 


Blanca  we  pass  through  70  K.  Camalote , 78  K.  Teteia,  and  81  K.  Prielas , 
and  in  so  doing  traverse  a diversified  country  of  picturesque  hills  and 
valleys,  meadow-land  and  jungle.  The  region  is  warmed  by  a tropical 
sun  and  is  amazingly  productive.  Nature  does  so  much  that  man  does 
little,  and  the  besetting  sins  of  the  natives  are  procrastination  and  lack  of 
progressiveness.  Everything  displays  the  exuberant  vigor  of  sunshine 
and  of  a soil  teeming  with  life  and  food.  Many  little  foot  trails,  worn 
smooth  by  countless  bare  feet,  cross  the  rails  and  wind  countryward 
through  arched  tunnels  of  green  foliage.  White-clad  Indian  women  glide 
along  these  paths,  and  naked  youngsters  guard  the  adjacent  land  aflame 
with  ripening  coffee.  Some  of  the  boys  have  small  wicker  baskets  at- 
tached to  the  waist,  and  into  these  they  sweep  the  brilliant  coffee-berries 
much  as  the  New  England  boy  strips  swamp  bushes  of  succulent  huckle- 
berries. Quite  a few  of'  the  stations  stand  in  the  midst  of  clearings 
reclaimed  from  the  jungle ; and  they  are  kept  free  from  the  ever-encroach- 
ing plant-life  only  by  the  exercise  of  constant  vigilance.  The  buildings 
are  often  idealized  by  the  presence  of  some  giant  jungle  tree  aflame  with 
fantastic  flowers,  and  bearing  on  its  moss-covered  trunk  a score  or  more 
beautiful  orchids.  A year  after  a house  is  erected  in  these  moist  lowlands 
it  resembles  a relic  of  the  Spanish  invasion.  The  humid,  seed-laden 
breezes,  and  the  vigorous  and  ever-advancing  plant-life,  attack  it  on 
every  side.  Fungi  grow  from  the  pores  of  the  stones  or  bricks;  convol- 
vuli climb  the  sides  and  in  a remarkably  short  time  cover  it  with  a 
dense  mass  of  vines;  the  prolific  banana-plants  rise  in  serried  ranks  to  the 
windows,  and  pampas-grass  finds  lodgment  on  the  roof  and  grows  up  to 
meet  the  globular  yellow  oranges  or  lemons  which  mayhap  hang  above  it. 
Fine  palms  are  conspicuous  features  in  the  landscape,  among  them  the 
splendid  Coyol , whose  seeds  furnish  the  palm-oil  of  commerce.  Cocos 
nucifera  (p.  482)  is  usually  conspicuous  by  its  absence.  It  loves  the  sea 
better  than  the  jungle,  and  it  is  nearly  always  found  near  the  shore  or 
within  reach  of  the  caressing  salt  breeze.  We  cross  the  Rio  Juan  Sanchez 
and  the  Rio  Amapa,  both  wide  but  shallow  streams. 

93  K.  Tierra  Blanca,  the  junction  of  the  branch  line  to 
Vera  Cruz  (63  miles,  fare  1st  cl.  $4;  2d  cl.  $2.).  Rly.  restau- 
rant ; meals  SI . The  drinking  water  should  be  avoided.  Those 
who  dislike  bottled  waters  or  beer  (both  of  which  are  served 
at  reasonable  prices)  may  like  to  remember  that  the  tea  served 
with  meals  is  steeped  in  water  that  has  been  boiled. 

103  K.  San  Jose.  Chains  of  lakelets  dot  the  lower  reaches  of  the  valley. 
The  surrounding  country  is  one  of  jungle  and  meadow-land.  106  K. 
Vista  H ermosa.  The  grade  slopes  upward ; the  land  takes  on  the  character 
of  a prairie  country;  the  hills  have  retreated  to  a horizon  so  distant  that 
all  outlines  are  lost  in  a blue  haze.  To  the  1.,  far  across  the  intervening 
land,  the  snow-capped  peak  of  Orizaba  glistens  clear  against  the  sky. 
The  lowlands  show  ponds  that  resemble  exaggerated  mirrors,  and  yellow 
lilies  that  nod  and  sparkle  in  the  sunlight.  Tall  cranes  wade  the  waters, 
and  triangular  lines  of  ducks  fly  across  them.  109  K.  Los  Changos . 
121  K.  Los  Naranjos.  128  K.  Loma  San  Juan.  134  K.  Brisbin.  144  K. 
Santa  Cruz.  146  K.  El  Hule.  We  cross  the  Rio  Papalodpam,  or  River  of 
Butterflies  (Aztec,  papatl,  butterfly,  apan , river  — Sp.  mariposa ),  on  the 
largest  bridge  (5  spans,  each  170  ft.  long;  cost  $325,000)  on  the  line. 
The  river  is  a muddy  but  picturesque  water-way  (the  most  important 
stream  in  the  state  of  Vera  Cruz)  for  the  many  craft  which  float  down 
laden  with  bags  and  bales  of  inland  produce.  158  K.  Fuentevilla. 

166  K.  Obispo , in  a region  celebrated  for  its  splendid  fruits.  The  dis- 
trict produces,  among  other  things,  oranges,  lemons,  limes,  dates,  tanger- 
ines, sweet-cassava  (known  also  as  the  Y uca  amarga  and  as  the  Huaca- 
mote  — the  yuca  furnishes  a kind  of  bread  and  tapioca  ; the  cassava 
fields  are  called  conucos ),  pineapples,  guavas,  bread-fruit,  and  a host 
of  fine  aromatic  shrubs.  To  the  W.  lies  the  celebrated  Valle  Nacional, 
or  National  valley,  whence  comes  much  of  the  fine  tobacco  (p.  lxxvi)  for 
which  Mexico  is  noted.  There  are  many  wild  species;  the  cultivated 


.Vis  Rtc.  62.  CORDOBA  TO  THE  ISTHMUS 


plants  form  the  base  of  an  important  national  industry,  and  an  article* 
of  export.  Men,  women,  and  children  hereabout  protect  the  national 
industry  by  smoking  incessantly. 

172  K.  Agua  Fria,  in  the  midst  of  a beautiful  country  where  many 
immigrants  from  the  United  States  have  settled.  American  families  with 
roving  tendencies  have  been  attracted  hither  by  the  warm  climate,  the 
w< mderful  fertility  of  the  land,  and  its  low  cost.  Some  of  these  settlers  are 
Mormons  who  have  exchanged  the  lime-light  of  Utah  for  the  sun-light  of 
tropical  Mexico;  here  they  propose  to  found  a dynasty  and  a settlement 
which  will  undoubtedly  increase  with  the  prolific  abandon  shown  by  the 
insects  and  the  vegetation.  183  K.  Carmen..  Three  fine  peaks  of  tlie 
Z.  mpoaltepec  (p.  541)  range  are  in  view  on  the  eastern  sky-line.  Visible 
to  the  r.  of  the  station  are  some  prehistoric  mounds  from  which  a few 
specimens  of  fine  old  pottery  have  been  taken.  The  station  lies  in  the 
centre  of  a good  grazing  country.  Deep  sea  steamships  come  up  the  con- 
tiguous river  for  fat  cattle  for  the  Cuban  markets.  200  K.  Perez.  The 
surrounding  country  is  dotted  with  low  guava  bushes,  hibiscus,  verbena, 
and  wild-mandrake.  Over  2,000  specimens  of  birds,  reptiles,  and  insects 
were  collected  here  recently  and  sent  to  the  Field  Museum  at  Chicago 
(l*.  S.  A.).  209  K.  Lagos.  220  K.  Isla.  227  K.  Barranca. 

237  K.  Rivas.  Between  this  and  the  next  station  (243  K.  Jimba ) the 
rl\ . line  crosses  two  cusps  of  a ruined,  crescent-shaped  city  buried  for 
untold  centuries  in  the  jungle.  Many  stone  idols  and  similar  objects 
• some  of  which  are  now  in  the  National  Museum  at  Mexico  City)  have 
been  unearthed  here.  The  eye  travels  eastward  across  a beautiful  undu- 
lating  country  bounded  in  the  distance  by  the  blue-tipped  Tuxtla  moun- 
tain'. At  the  base  of  this  volcanic  range,  in  a region  eternally  warmed 
l>v  its  subterranean  fires,  are  the  renowned  Tuxtla  tobacco  plantations. 
The  waters  of  the  Gulf  are  visible  from  the  summits  of  the  mountains. 
In  1820  a German  botanist,  Doctor  Leonard  Fuchs,  built  himself  a cabin 
mar  this  range,  and  there  he  dwTelt  for  several  years.  The  lovely  Fuchsia 
F.  coccinia),  which  in  this  region  is  found  in  many  beautiful  varieties, 
some  of  which  attain  the  dignity  of  a tree,  was  named  for  this  savant. 
In  the  hills  to  the  right  of  this  region  are  many  wild  blackberries  ( Rubus 
frurtimsus  — Sp.  zarzamora).  Fine  streams  course  through  the  lowlands, 
which  arc  a hunter’s  paradise.  252  K.  San  Marcos;  rly.  restaurant,  meals 
SI . Near  the  station  are  (3)  Alligator  Lakes,  so-called  from  the  presence 
of  these  saurians.  Albeit  the  station  is  700  ft.  above  sea-level,  and  miles 
from  any  river,  alligators  infest  the  region,  to  the  disgust  of  the  local 
limit ers  and  the  perplexity  of  the  old  residents.  Tiger-leopards  roam  the 
adjacent  hills,  a myriad  plover  enliven  the  plains,  antelope  are  to  be  had 
by  hunting  for  them,  and  ducks  innumerable  quack  through  the  near-by 
marshes. 

The  run  hence  to  Santa  Lucrecia,  the  terminus  of  the  line,  is  through  a 
country  tropical  in  every  aspect.  In  this  sun-warmed  region  of  amazing 
vitality  and  productiveness  the  earth  seems  incapable  pf  holding  its 
w onderful  energy  in  check.  The  winds  dislodge  seeds  and  bits  of  soil  from 
t in'  surface,  carry  them  to  the  tree-tops  or  to  the  exposed  ridge  of  some 
broad  limb,  fertilize  a hitherto  non-productive  spot  and  endow  it  with 
bizarre  forms  of  plant  life.  As  the  delighted  gaze  roves  through  the  trees 
it  '-m  ounter ' veritable  hanging  gardens  in  wdiich  strange  and  exqui- 
'itdy  beautiful  orchids  thrive  and  multiply.  So  dense  and  so  rank  is  the 
vigorous  undergrowth  that  many  of  the  more  delicate  plants  are  smoth- 
er* i.  or  crowded  off  the  ground,  and  as  if  to  preserve  the  species  to  this 
remarkable  locality  Nature  has  thus  provided  a second  story,  a kind  of 
B i by  Ion  i m-garden,  wherein  are  reproduced  those  plants  unable  to  sus- 
t in  the  fierce  st  ruggle  for  existence  on  the  lower,  or  ground  floor.  Promi- 
nent  among  the  trees  which  thrive  hereabout  is  the  Melon  Zapote  or 
Papaya  f'arica  papaya)  ki*)wn  in  the  U.  S.  A.  as  the  Pawpaw'.  It  grows 
v i.  !.  i > very  prolific,  anil  attains  a height  of  from  20  to  25  ft.  The  dark 
Rf'-en  leaves  are  from  20  to  30  inches  long,  and  they  attract  attention  by 
clustering  at  the  top  of  an  otherwise  leafless  trunk.  The  fruit  is  about  the 
^i/c  Mud  shape  of  a musk-melon,  though  longer,  and  wdth  a thinner  rind. 

\ • ilk-white  juice  exudes  when  a spoon  is  thrust  into  the  pulp,  w'hich  is 
: cllow,  agreeably  sweet,  with  many  jet-black  seeds.  The  tree  begins  to 


BIRD  LIFE 


62.  Route . 549 


bear  fruit  when  a year  old,  and  it  produces  from  20  to  100  melons  at  a 
time.  Its  development  in  the  tropics  is  so  rapid  that  buds,  flowers,  and 
green  and  ripe  fruit  are  sometimes  found  on  a single  plant;  a single  melon 
may  weigh  20  lbs.  It  contains  considerable  pepsin,  which  is  dried  and 
sent  to  the  U.  S.  A.,  where  it  is  used  as  a cure  for  dyspepsia  and  for  mak- 
ing different  papoid  preparations.  The  trees  are  well  defined  as  to  sex, 
and  where  they  are  cultivated,  but  one  male  tree  is  permitted  to  grow  in 
a grove  of  50  or  more  females.  Fruit  and  leaves  possess  the  singular 
property  of  rendering  tough  meat  tender,  and  they  are  employed  for  this 
purpose  by  the  natives.  When  the  pulp  of  the  fruit  is  rubbed  over  a piece 
of  tough  meat  the  juice  attacks  the  fibre  and  softens  it.  A tough 
chicken,  hung  in  a papaya- tree  over  night,  will  be  as  tender  as  a Philadel- 
phia broiler  the  following  morning. 

(The  anthropophagous  savages  of  New  Guinea,  of  the  Solomon  Islands, 
and  other  remote  regions  of  the  South  Pacific  Ocean,  practise  this  same 
custom,  and  they  perhaps  did  so  long  before  they  were  brought  to  the 
notice  of  the  civilized  world.  The  Papuans  and  other  South  Sea  Island 
cannibals  wrap  the  flesh  of  their  human  victims  (called  by  the  generic 
term  of  “Long  Pig”)  in  papaya  leaves  to  make  it  tender  and  appetizing. 
At  a cannibalistic  feast  human  tiesn  is  always  served  in  a papaya  leaf,  in 
a small  roll  about  the  size  of  a banana,  and  the  leaf  is  eaten  with  the  flesh, 
to  aid  digestion.  The  Philippine  Islanders  hang  their  tough  fowls  in 
papaya  trees  to  render  them  tender,  and  they  also  use  the  papaya  leaves 
in  lieu  of  soap.  In  the  Island  of  Formosa  young  mothers  boil  raw  papayas 
and  eat  them  with  pork,  believing  that  on  such  a diet  they  can  more 
liberally  nourish  their  babes.  Many  of  the  natives  of  the  Island  World  of 
Polynesia  know  of  the  curious  properties  of  the  papaya  tree.  It  would  be 
interesting  to  learn  whether  they  gained  this  knowledge  from  the  early 
Mexicans  or  whether  these  gave  the  idea  to  the  old-new-world,  and  if  so 
howl) 

As  the  train  travels  southward,  penetrating  deeper  into  the  region 
which  was  long  closed  for  aught  but  rancheros  and  occasional  travellers, 
Bird  Life  becomes  more  and  more  prominent.  The  air  seems  alive  with  the 
feathered  jewels  which  flash  to  and  fro.  As  the  cars  move  slowly  forward 
in  a wave  of  golden  sunshine;  as  the  deep  summer-song  of  a myriad 
insects  reach  the  ear,  and  the  fragrance  of  tropical  flowers  is  wafted 
through  the  open  windows,  one  can  easily  imagine  one’s  self  in  an  old  Ken- 
tucky, or  Louisiana,  garden  where  Cardinals,  Orioles,  and  Mockingbirds 
make  of  the  warm  days  and  balmy,  star-lit  nights  a bit  of  a terrestrial 
paradise.  A host  of  familiar  and  unfamiliar  birds  can  be  counted  from 
the  windows  of  the  moving  car.  The  Whip-poor-will,  Western  Mocking- 
bird, Pileated  Warbler,  Painted  Redstart,  Audubon  Warbler,  Summer 
Tanager,  Virginia  Warbler,  Blackheaded  Grosbeak,  Black-Capped  Vireo, 
Boat-Tailed  Grackle,  Mexican  Meadowlark,  Wagler  Oriole,  Red-Eyed 
Cowbird,  Magpie  Jay,  Swainson  Flycatcher,  and  the  Rufous  Cuckoo  are 
but  some  of  the  many  the  quick  eye  may  register  within  a half  hour.  Among 
these  the  lover  of  melody  will  also  note  the  Nightingale,  known  also  as 
the  Zenzontle,  and  Ruisenor,  sweetest  of  all  the  Mexican  songbirds. 
Abundant  in  the  meadow-lands  are  the  Mourning  Dove,  Black  Phoebe, 
Mexican  Pileated  Woodpecker,  Yellow-Bellied  Trogon,  and  a host  of 
familiar  birds.  In  the  jungle  where  the  great  trees  support  ant-nests  as 
big  as  barrels,  swarms  of  Red-and-blue-headed  Parakeets  may  be  seen 
clinging  to  the  nests  waiting  for  the  unfortunate  owners  to  sally  forth  and 
be  eaten.  A score  or  more  of  these  chattering  feathered  sprites  will  some- 
times perch  in  a row  along  the  telegraph  wire,  and  as  the  train  passes, 
scold  it  in  whatever  vocabulary  they  can  command;  just  as  a benchful 
of  naughty  children  might  sauce  an  inoffensive  pedagogue. 

Loons,  Grebes  and  Ducks  innumerable  dive  and  wade  through  the  con- 
tiguous marshes,  in  the  joyous  abandon  of  an  unhunted  existence.  White 
Pelicans,  Mallards,  Cinnamon  Teal  and  Ivory-Billed  Coots  plough  the  ad- 
jacent ponds,  and  as  many  well-known  home  birds  come  within  the  range 
of  vision  one  realizes  that  this  is  one  of  the  Southern  refuges:  the  tran- 
quil breeding-place  of  the  myriad  storm-driven  and  man-persecuted 
feathered  friends  from  the  frozen  North.  To  this  far  sunny  South-land 
of  eternal  summer,  where  the  natives  love  them  more  for  their  music 


550  Rte.63.  COATZACOALCOS  TO  SALINA  CRUZ' 


and  their  beauty  than  for  their  flesh  and  blood-stained  feathers,  they 
wing  their  flight  unerringly:  secure  in  the  instinct  that  teaches  them 
th.it  wherever  dwells  the  Anglo-Saxon  and  his  alleged  civilization,  there 
ar**  his  enemies  and  those  of  his  young. 

(The  birds  of  Mexico  comprise  upwards  of  353  species,  many  of  them 
faiiiet i for  their  brilliant  plumage  and  singing  qualities.  In  the  hot  lands 
the  birds  are  more  distinguished  for  beauty  of  plumage  than  melody  of 
voice.  The  finest  songsters  haunt  the  temperate  zone.) 

;;_v>  K.  Santa  Lncrecia  (State  of  Vera  Cruz,  with  a pop.  of  1,000), 
junction  of  the  Ferrocarril  Nacional  de  Tehuantepec,  Rte.  63.  What 
t lu  re  is  of  the  town  clusters  near  the  station,  which  is  perched  on  a high 
i lufi  overlooking  the  broad  Coatzacoalcos  River.  Rlv.  refreshment  room. 
Tne  drinking  water  is  to  be  avoided.  Bottled  waters  andnativebeer  (at 
35  c.  may  always  be  had.  Travellers  who  find  themselves  obliged  to 
pass  the  night  here  are  stroDgly  counselled  to  demand  a mosquito 
net  to  guard  against  mosquitos  (Sp.  “small  flies”)  and  ether  “light 
militia  of  the  air  and  earth.”  In  the  absence  of  a net,  rub  the  face  and 
hands  with  some  pungent  essential  oil,  or  with  strong  brandy  in  which 
orange  peel  l as  been  allowed  to  soak.  The  natives  speak  a mixture  of 
Spanish  and  Zapotec  (comp.  p.  542),  and  the  traveller  finds  some  diffi- 
culty in  understanding  them.  Coincident  with  the  change  in  tongue, 
one  notes  a change  in  the  bearing  of  the  natives  themselves,  who  wear 
the  shiftless,  languid  air  of  the  tropics.  The  alert  demeanor  of  the  high- 
land Mexican  has  remained  behind  with  the  altitude:  the  Isthmian 
natives  sit  about  on  their  hunkers,  dawdle  and  act  as  if  the  weight  of  the 
entire  universe  rested  on  their  naked  shoulders.  Good  workmen  are 
scarce  and  wages  are  high  on  account  of  it.  Although  many  fat  cattle 
browse  on  the  adjacent  hills,  the  owners  are  too  tired  to  milk  them. 
( food  milk  is  as  scarce  as  good  water,  and  when  a little  of  the  first-named 
is  to  be  had  it  costs  from  60  to  75  cts.  the  gallon.  Condensed  milk  takes 
the  place  of  fresh  milk  in  this  wonderfully  rich  grazing  country. 


63.  From  Coatzacoalcos  ( Puerto  Mexico)  via  Santa 
Lucrecia,  Rincon  Antonio  and  Tehuantepec,  to 
Salina  Cruz. 

300  Kilom.  Ferrocarril  Nacional  de  Tehuantepec  (Isthmian  Route) 
2 trains  daily  in  12  hrs.,  fare,  see  p.  xxxi.  The  Hotel  de  la  Companta,  in  the 
-ration  building,  is  for  the  use  of  employees,  but  the  traveller  can  obtain 
lodging  and  meals.  There  is  also  a similar  Hotel  and  Restaurant  at  Rincon 

Antonio. 

Arrival  h7  Sea.  Ships  come  alongside  the  wharf  and  land  passen- 
g<  r ' within  5 min.  walk  of  any  of  the  hotels.  No  cabs.  Native  boys  meet 
trains  and  will  act  as  porters  for  luggage;  hand-bags  25  c.; 
trunks  50  c. 

Hotels  comp.  p.  xlvii).  Holds  Colon,  Two  Republics,  and  California , 
all  near  together  on  the  main  street,  on  the  slope  of  a hill  overlooking 
the  sea.  Room  only,  with  one  bed,  $1.50:  with  2 beds,  $3.  Rooms  that 
do  not  face  the  sea  are  apt  to  be  hot  and  stuffy.  Meals,  $1.  Coffee  and 
rolls,  50  c.  Mineral  w’ater  or  beer,  25  c.  a bottle. 

Coatzacoalcos  (or  Puerto  Mexico),  State  of  Vera  Cruz,  on 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  Tehuantepec 
National  Railway,  stands  at  the  mouth  of  the  Coatzacoalcos 
River,  which  here  is  wide  and  deep.  The  town  is  an  unkempt, 
sandy  place,  on  the  slope  of  a range  of  hills  — barren  toward 
the  sea  and  green  on  their  inland  side  — with  the  beach  as  its 
main  street.  The  bay,  shaped  like  a horseshoe,  is  almost  land- 
locked, with  the  river  flowing  in  at  the  bend  and  passing  out 
to  sea  between  the  cusps.  The  climate  is  hot,  and  paludal 


TRANS-ISTHMIAN  RAILWAY  63.  Route.  551 


fevers  are  not  unknown.  The  local  market,  the  most  animated 
spot  in  town,  is  an  interesting  place,  and  here  one  ma.ysee  many 
curious  fish  brought  in  from  the  productive  waters  of  the  Gulf, 
and  many  bizarre  fruits  from  the  mainland.  Some  of  the  mar- 
ket women,  who,  as  a rule,  belong  to  the  working  class,  smoke 
strong  black  cigars  and  appear  to  enjoy  them.  Much  of  the 
produce  is  brought  from  the  other  side  of  the  bay  in  small 
pirogues  which  the  natives  and  Chinese  handle  dexterously. 
The  river  forms  a natural  harbor  of  ample  width  and  of  an 
average  depth  of  50  ft.  The  channel  is  obstructed  by  a bar 
about  12  ft.  below  the  surface,  and  the  object  of  the  two  con- 
verging jetties  (length  about  4,333  ft.),  which  extend  from  the 
mouth  of  the  river  to  the  sea,  is  to  force  the  river  to  scour  away 
this  bar  and  prevent  its  reforming.  The  rock  used  in  the  con- 
struction of  the  jetties  is  from  the  quarries  at  Medias  Aguas, 
97  kilom.  inland  on  the  rly.  The  wharves,  with  a total  frontage 
of  3,433  ft.,  are  equipped  with  electric  cranes  which  lift  mer- 
chandise out  of  a ship’s  hold  and  place  it  on  cars  through 
hatches  in  their  roofs.  Modern  devices  are  employed  to  make 
this  and  the  other  terminal  ports  successful  competitors  of  the 
Panama  Canal.  There  is  a submarine  cable  station  here. 

The  Rly.  trends  due  S.  and  plunges  at  once  into  the  jungle.  The 
transition  from  the  sandy,  wind-swept  shore  to  the  cool,  fragrant  woods 
is  complete  and  pleasing.  The  whining  call  of  cat-birds,  the  squawking 
of  strident -voiced  parrots,  and  the  deep  monotone  of  countless  insects 
take  the  place  of  skirling  winches  and  ship-board  noises.  9 K.  Berta. 
17  K.  Calzadas.  28  K.  Limones.  30  K.  Carmen.  The  tropical  vegetation 
grows  with  such  vigor  in  these  sun-warmed  regions  that  chemicals  are 
employed  to  destroy  the  creepers  nearest  the  rails  and  thus  prevent 
encroachments.  The  chemical  compound  is  thrown  in  a hot,  liquid  form 
from  a heated  tank-car,  sprayed  by  means  of  a steam-heated  atomizer. 
The  application  kills  all  plant  life  but  other  arises  to  replace  it  so  soon 
that  the  operation  of  drenching  the  right  of  way  must  be  almost  contin- 
uous, to  be  permanently  effective.  We  pass  little  clearings  overhung 
with  heavy,  white  mists,  gray  wisps  of  which  steal  through  the  tall  tree- 
tops  in  riband-like  bands.  The  jungle  plants  flap  wet  feelers  against  the 
cars  which  move  forward  through  a veritable  tunnel  of  luxuriant  foli- 
age. On  the  black,  oily  surface  of  the  creosoted  ties  are  small  pools 
of  dew,  and  tiny  rills  of  moisture  trickle  down  the  upright  steel  rails 
employed  in  lieu  of  wood  telegraph  poles,  which,  if  planted  here,  would 
either  sprout  or  rot. 

37  K.  Chinameca.  Milk  and  coffee  in  old  beer  bottles  are  offered  for 
sale  by  native  boys.  As  a rule  those  who  sell  alleged  “goodies”  at  rly. 
stations  are  innocent  of  all  ideas  of  hygiene,  and  as  fever  germs  sometimes 
lurk  about  their  homes  the  unimmune  traveller  will  do  well  to  adopt  the 
rule  of  rejecting  such  wayside  inducements.  43  K.  Jaltipan.  55  K. 
Velasco.  64  K.  Ojapa.  76  K.  Almagres. 

87  K.  Juile.  Point  of  departure  for  San  Juan  Evangelista  (29  K.  Rly. 
Ramal  de  Juile  d San  J . Evangelista , 3 trains  a week,  in  \ hr.),  and  for 
towns  on  the  Papaloapan  River ; which  are  also  reached  by  the  steam- 
boats of  the  F errocarriles  de  Vera  Cruz , Mexico,  Limitada,  comp,  p 481 . — • 
97  K.  Medias  Aguas.  106  K.  Tortugas.  117  K.  Suchil.  The  flora  of  the 
district  through  which  the  train  passes  is  a perpetual  delight.  Most  of 
the  forest  trees  bear  some  kind  of  a beautiful  flower,  and  the  splendid 
orchidaceous  and  other  epiphytic  plants  which  cling  to  them,  present 
unusually  beautiful  masses  of  color.  As  if  to  aid  in  the  enchantment,  the 
giant  trees  which  rise  in  belted  splendor  above  the  underbrush,  extend 


552  Route  63.  TROPICAL  FORESTS 

great  branches  canopied  and  hung  with  brilliant  flowering  vines;  their 
attitude  recalling  the  Hindus  in  the  Bombay  bazaars  as  they  spread 
their  arms  draped  in  regal  silks  which  they  display  to  the  covetous 
Howadji.  Many  of  the  forest  patriarchs  are  almost  covered  with  huge 
ant-nests  and  swinging  bird  nests.  The  gigantic  branches  of  the  wild  fig 
tree  ( Ficus  carica ) reach  a hundred  feet  in  all  directions,  and  the  am- 
bitious convolvuli  climbs  to  the  very  topmost  point  to  hang  its  bell- 
shaped flower  within  reach  of  the  sun.  Many  of  the  trees  bear  curiously 
shaped  pods,  some  of  which  the  natives  gather  and  use  as  pocket  re- 
ceptacles for  matches  and  small  coins.  The  entire  district  is  a wild  and 
surpassingly  beautiful  tropical  hortus;  one  which  reminds  the  traveller 
of  Peradenia  (Ceylon),  Buitenzorg  (Java)  and  Pamplemousse  in  the  island 
of  Mauritius.  It  is  allied,  in  a way,  to  the  splendid  gardens  of  Pera- 
denia,  for  there,  if  one  falls  asleep  in  the  grass,  one  is  likely  to  be  sucked 
to  death  by  the  myriad  horrible  and  needle-like  leeches  which  infest 
the  place.  Here  the  equally  dreaded  vampires  ( Desmodus  rotundus ) 
take  their  place,  and  after  nightfall  silent  lines  of  these  fiendish,  Mephis- 
tophelian  creatures  fan  noiselessly  through  the  dusk,  as  if  in  search  of 
some  unwary  human,  lost  in  the  jungle. 

The  dripping,  glistening,  rustling  jungle,  filled  with  animal  and  insect 
life  and  intertwined  with  creeping  convolvuli,  commands  the  attention 
quite  as  persistently  as  do  the  microscopic  flies  ( rodidores ) wThich  bite  all 
iinglovea  hands  and  bring  to  the  surface  of  the  skin  tiny  blood-spots 
and  a sting  like  that  of  a mosquito.  These  contumacious  little  pests 
are  to  the  tropics  what  the  black  flies  are  to  Northern  woods,  and  they 
render  life  burdensome  unless  guarded  against.  Numerous  parrot-beaked 
Blackbirds  enliven  the  jungle  hereabout.  Between  this  station  and 
Santa  Lucrecia  the  quick  eye  will  note  many  splendid  specimens  of  the 
Mexican  Goshawk;  Alex.  Goatsuckers  and  Mex.  Caciques  — the  beau- 
tiful yellow  and  black  Orioles  of  the  tropics.  Their  swinging  nests  hang 
3 or  4 ft.  from  the  tips  of  tall  branches,  swaying  in  the  slightest  breeze. 
In  flight  the  birds  flash  like  brilliant  sprites  through  the  jungle  and  de- 
light the  eye  that  revels  in  color.  They  are  usually  jet  black,  with  long 
crests  and  bright  yellow  shoulders,  lower  back  and  tail,  save  the  two 
inner  feathers.  The  Mexicans  know  them  as  Calandrias ; in  the  tropics 
they  are  as  numerous  as  Barn  Swallows  or  English  Sparrows  are  in  the 
North.  Long-tailed  Crested  Blue  Jays,  or  Magpie  Jays,  are  very  numer- 
ous and  are  perhaps  the  most  beautiful  birds  seen  in  the  tropical  low- 
hinds.  Their  brilliant  blue  and  white  forms  are  graceful  in  every  motion, 
and  with  their  tall,  recurved,  fan-like  crests,  and  long,  plume-like  tails, 
they  resemble  Macaws  or  some  of  the  handsome  long-tailed  Parrots  for 
which  t his  Southern  country  is  renowned.  A notable  feature  in  the  land- 
scape is  the  parrot-fruit  tree  ( Pileu  conica).  This  odd-shaped  fruit,  which 
resembles  okra  pads,  is  four-sided,  of  a green  color,  and  grows  on  a tree 
entirely  devoid  of  leaves.  It  is  juicy,  sticky,  and  in  form  resembles  a green 
Parakeet.  Evidently  mindful  of  this  resemblance,  the  Parakeets  dash 
to  the  tree  when  frightened,  scatter,  stand  upright  and  remain  motion- 
less. So  nearly  alike  are  they  to  the  fruit  that  a predatory  Hawk  will  some- 
times fly  past  a tree  on  which  a score  or  more  of  these  saucy  sprites 
are  standing,  apparently  unaware  of  their  presence. 

Many  glorious  Papilios  swing  through  the  jungle,  and  scores  of  small 
ami  large  Iguanas  — “those  singular  Cerastosaurus  relics  of  the  Jurassic 
Age”  — make  it  their  home.  The  flesh  of  the  Iguana  is  as  white  and 
* ' ’ 1 r a young  chicken.  Their  eggs  are  esteemed  by  the  natives  and 
tl»<-  repulsive  lizards  themselves  are  eaten  by  them  and  relished.  This 
district  is  also  the  home  of  the  cacao-bean  ( Theobroma  cacao)  which  pro- 
duees  the  cocoa  of  commerce.  In  many  parts  of  the  tropics  it  is  culti- 
• eed  < m '< a i <m[  ; the  growing  of  cacao  being  one  of  the  most 
lucrative  industries.  The  trees  are  planted  about  four  yards  apart;  about 
400  to  the  acre.  They  grow  luxuriantly  and  thrive  best  at  an  altitude 
not  exceeding  2,000  ft.  The  cacao  grows  in  large  pods,  containing  from 
1>  to  25  beans  each,  on  trees  from  10  to  12  ft.  high.  Mexico  possesses 
manv  chocolate  factories,  and  the  delicious  product  is  made  from  the 
eai  ao-beans.  A moist  at  mosphere  with  a temperature  ranging  from 
7tP  to  90°  Fahr.,  shade  and  good  drainage  are  necessary  to  the  success- 


Wild  Animals.  RINCON  ANTONIO  68.  Route.  553 


ful  cultivation  of  the  plants.  These  are  the  reverse  of  hardy,  and  they 
are  always  planted  under  the  protecting  branches  of  some  taller  tree, 
thus  safeguarding  them  against  the  too  fierce  rays  of  a tropical  sun. 
When  the  pods  are  ripe  — two  crops  a year  are  generally  gathered  — 
they  are  skilfully  severed  from  the  branches,  and  are  then  left  on  the 
ground  for  a day  or  two,  before  being  cut  open.  When  the  seeds  are  taken 
out  they  are  sweated,  cured  and  shipped  to  the  chocolate  factories. 

The  Coca  (Erythroxylon  coca) , which  is  not  to  be  confounded  with  the 
above,  also  grows  here.  It  is  a narcotic  and  stimulant  plant,  the  leaves 
of  which  are  used  by  the  natives  of  Brazil,  Bolivia  and  Peru.  “Its  home 
is  in  the  sultry  valleys  of  the  eastern  slopes  of  the  Peruvian  and  Bolivian 
Andes.  The  shrub  bears  a foliage  of  lustrous  green  and  white  flowers 
ripening  into  small  scarlet  berries.  When  the  leaves  are  brittle  enough 
to  break  upon  being  bent',  they  are  stripped  from  the  plant,  dried  in 
the  sun,  and  packed  in  sacks.  No  record  exists  of  its  first  discovery,  but 
it  was  used  in  the  temples  of  the  Incas,  when  Pizarro  invaded  Peru,  and 
the  priests  chewed  coca  while  performing  their  rites.”  It  is  much  used 
by  the  Mexican  Indians,  and  this,  with  certain  other  stimulant  plants 
accounts,  perchance,  for  their  notable  powers  of  endurance  in  certain 
cases.  Here  also  thrive  the  vanilla  bean,  rubber,  rice,  sugar-cane, 
cochineal,  indigo,  dyewoods,  balsams,  resins,  and  many  varnish-making 
gums.  From  the  dense  forests  hereabout  the  Spaniards  drew  their 
timber  for  ship-building.  In  these  tropical  woodlands  there  dwell  also 
the  Collared  Peccary,  the  Mexican  Deer,  the  Black-Faced  Brocket,  Tapir, 
Mexican  Spermophile,  Jaguar,  Tiger-Cat  or  Ocelot,  Yaguarondi  Cat, 
Nine-Banded  Armadillo,  White-Nosed  Coati  Mondi,  Ring-Tailed  Cat 
and  many  lesser  mammals.  In  the  foothills  of  the  state  of  Oaxaca, 
through  which  the  line  runs,  Black  Bear  are  more  or  less  plentiful,  and 
from  the  hills  to  the  sea  range  the  Guatemalan  Gray  Fox,  the  Red- 
Bellied  Ground  Squirrel,  several  unidentified  species  of  Flying  Squirrels, 
the  Great-Tailed  Skunk,  etc.,  and  Ducks,  Loons,  Grebe,  Geese  and  Wild- 
Turkeys. 

127  K.  Santa  Lucreda.  Junction  of  the  Ferrocarril  Vera  Cruz  al 
Istmo  (comp.  p.  544).  The  train  crosses  a fine  steel  bridge.  Groups  of 
women  and  children  bathe  in  the  stream  below  and  use  it  as  a laundry. 
The  track  describes  a wide  curve  and  skirts  the  river  bank  for  some  dis- 
tance. We  pass  into  a jungle  dotted  with  tall  palms  whose  wind-whipped 
leaves  proclaim  them  to  be  within  reach  of  the  breeze  which  blows 
up  from  the  (177  Kilom.)  Pacific  Ocean.  Clusters  of  tall  pampas  grass  and 
feathery-topped  bamboos  thrive  in  the  contiguous  morasses.  Here- 
about the  natives  have  adopted  the  Malay  custom  of  building  their 
houses  on  stilts,  on  and  near  the  river  bank:  the  open-air  stables  be- 
neath serve  for  the  kine,  swine  and  domestic  fowls.  Alligators  appre- 
ciate this  and  they  not  infrequently  find  their  way  hither  from  the  more 
tropical  reaches  of  the  river.  Magnificent  blue  butterflies,  the  omni- 
present convolvuli,  and  the  bulky  fruit  of  the  melon-zapote  (p.  548)  are 
in  evidence  almost  constantly.  The  deep  jungle  patches  are  enlivened  by 
bunches  of  brilliant  berries,  by  flowers,  and  by  a species  of  low,  lily-like 
palm  whose  underleaves  show  silver  tints  as  they  wave  and  flutter  in 
the  breeze.  135  K.  Cardenas.  144  K.  JJbero.  164  K.  Paso  de  Buques. 
166  K.  Palomares.  1 77  K.  Sarabi.  187  K.  Mogone.  We  enter  a fine  canon 
through  which  brawls  and  tumbles  a stream  of  remarkably  clear,  trans- 
parent water.  The  ravine  (best  view  from  the  right)  is  about  5 kilom. 
long,  and  it  serves  as  a dividing-line  between  the  tropical  country  through 
which  we  have  just  passed  and  the  grassy  upland  ahead.  The  transition, 
as  we  emerge  from  the  gorge,  is  very  striking.  Blue  hills  cut  the  distant 
sky-line,  no  jungle  or  marshlands  are  to  be  seen,  and  the  air  carries  a 
tang  of  salt  and  of  highland  freshness.  196  K.  Ives. 

204  K.  Rincon  Antonio  (sometimes  called  Matias  Romero).  The 
working  headquarters  of  the  rly.  It  is  a rly.  town  (pop.  about  2,500),  but 
a few  years  old,  and  established  here  because  of  the  healthfulness  of  the 
locality.  The  shops  are  immediately  across  the  track  from  the  station 
building,  and  on  the  second  floor  of  this  are  the  company  offices.  The 
homes  of  the  officials  and  of  the  workmen  (chiefly  English  and  Ameri- 
cans) are  perched  on  the  surrounding  hills.  Hard  by  is  a commodious 


554  Rou>  63.  TEHUANTEPEC  CITY 


club-house  to  which  travellers  with  credentials  are  welcome.  Opposite 
rile  rear  of  the  station,  is  the  business  section,  comprising  one  street 
flanked  by  a row  of  squat  houses.  The  company  operates  an  hotel  in  the 
station  building:  rooms  SI  to  S3.  The  restaurant  is  under  separate  man- 
agement; meals  SI.  American  newspapers,  magazines,  post-cards  and 
travellers’  requisites  at  the  stand  of  the  Sonora  News  Company  within 
the  station. 

Seven  miles  distant,  beyond  the  hills,  is  the  Indian  Village  of  San 
Juan,  the  inhabitants  of  which  are  called  San  Juaneros.  Though  an  at- 
tractive people  physically,  many  of  them  are  afflicted  with  leprous 
tendencies,  and  some  are  almost  covered  with  the  whitish  spots  of  that 
dread  disease.  The  market  produce  sold  in  Rincon  Antonio  is  brought 
in  by  the  Indian  women  of  San  J uan.  They  trot  the  fourteen  miles  daily 
as  though  it  were  only  a pleasant  walk. 

228  K.  Chivela  Pass,  the  highest  point  (730  ft.)  on  the  line.  The  train 
begins  its  descent  to  the  Pacific,  76  K.  distant.  The  track  winds  in  and 
out  among  the  hills,  and  at  times  we  get  fine  views  of  the  lowlands.  For 
a few  miles  the  descent  is  abrupt  with  a succession  of  reverse  curves  and 
toboggan-like  inclines.  Instead  of.  the  red.  earth  of  the  jungle  the  land 
shows  light  brown  mineralized  soil  in  which  huge  stones  and  splendid 
specimens  of  organ  cacti  are  the  predominant  features.  In  many  places 
t lie  wind-swept  hills  are  bare  of  vegetation,  and  out-croppings  of  marble 
show  on  their  precipitous  sides.  Deep  barrancas,  threaded  by  rivulets 
which  become  roaring  torrents  in  the  rainy  season,  are  crossed  and  we 
soon  pass  through  the  only  tunnel  on  the  line.  Strong  gusts  of  sea  air 
sweep  up  through  the  canons,  and  when  the  train  emerges  on  some  ele- 
vated and  exposed  plateau  the  hurtling  sea-breeze  (which  blows  almost 
constantly  here)  strikes  it  with  force  and  freshness.  ^238  K.  Mena.  244 
K.  Rio  Verde.  255  K.  Empalme.  256  K.  San  Geronimo.  Junction  of 
the  Ferrocarril  Pan- Americano  (Rte.  64,  p.  558).  266  K.  Comitancillo. 
275  K.  Jordan.  281  K.  Piedra. 

285  K.  Tehuantepec,  pop.  10,400  (125  ft.),  in  a wide  gorge 
limited  on  the  E.  and  W.  by  the  hills  of  La  Cueva,  Santa  Maria, 
Tigre,  Padre  Lopez,  and  La  Vixana.  The  train  runs  for  some 
distance  through  the  principal  street  of  the  town,  which  is 
finely  situated  on  a great  bend  of  the  Tehuantepec  River. 

Hotels  (comp,  p.xlvii).  Hotel  Europa,  $2.50  Am.  PI.  American  cook- 
ing and  management.  — Hotel  del  Globo , $2.50  Am.  PI.  French  cooking  and 
management.  Roth  hotels  are  well  spoken  of,  and  both  are  within  5 min. 
walk  of  the  station.  Hand-bags  and  trunks  by  cargador  (comp.  p.  lii), 
25  c.  Two  or  more  trunks  in  a cart,  inclusive  charge,  50  c. 

Baths  (comp.  p.  lii).  Espiridion  and  Gomez  y Evaristo  Pinon , hard 
by  the  hotels:  25  and  50  c. 

Tehuantepec  (Hill  of  the  Tehuanas  or  Tehuantepecanos), 
second  city  of  the  state  of  Oaxaca,  21  M.  from  the  port  of 
Salina  C ruz , is  the  most  picturesque  town  on  the  isthmus  and 
Iho  stronghold  of  the  original  inhabitants  of  this  region.  It  is 
celebrated  for  its  hot-springs,  earthquakes  and  handsome 
women.  For  some  unknown  cause  it  is  the  centre  of  many 
seismic  disturbances.  Scientists  attribute  them  to  a desire  on 
the  part  of  Nature  to  re-establish  the  equilibrium  of  the  cordil- 
lera - at  Ihe  great  depression  occupied  by  the  isthmus.  The 
temblor  of  1S97  almost  demolished  the  town,  and  the  eruption 
of  Santo  Maria  in  1902  covered  the  roofs  of  the  houses  with  a 
white  volcanic  ash. 

The  traveller  is  surprised  into  admiration  of  the  superb  symmetry 
and  oftentimes  striking  beauty  of  the  women,  who  form  the  bulk  of  the 


TEHUANTEPEC  CITY  63.  Route . 555 


population.  The  majority  of  the  males  are  immigrants  from  adjoining 
states  and  they  are  inferior  to  the  women.  The  Tehuana  men  were  almost 
all  killed  in  the  internecine  struggles  which  followed  the  war  for  inde- 
pendence, and  it  is  said  that  the  present  proportion  of  females  to  males 
is  5 to  1.  The  racial  and  facial  characteristics  of  the  women  are  more 
noticeable,  because  as  a rule  they  are  pure  bloods.  They  are  thrifty, 
animated  and  more  enterprising  than  the  men.  The  relative  scarcity  of 
males  makes  individuals  of  more  importance  than  would  be  the  case  if 
the  sexes  were  equal  in  numbers,  and  the  passionate  and  jealous  nature 
of  the  women  is  perhaps  accentuated  by  this  minority.  A striking  char- 
acteristic is  their  commercial  enterprise;  many  of  them  engage  in  busi- 
ness and  adorn  themselves  with  the  proceeds  of  their  energy.  Like  the 
Burmese  women,  they  are  the  workers  and  the  enterprising  ones.  They 
bear  a stronger  resemblance  to  Burmese  than  to  Mexicans,  and  their 
customs  and  dress  bear  out  the  comparison.  The  upper  part  of  their 
daily  costume  is  an  Oriental-looking  jacket,  cut  very  low  at  the  neck 
with  short  sleeves;  usually  made  of  some  brilliant  cloth  trimmed  with 
yellow  or  gold  braid.  It  flows  loose  at  the  waist  and  shows  a strip  of  skin 
there,  as  well  as  every  curve  of  the  figure.  The  skirt  is  a replica  of  the 
Malay  and  Burmese  sarong ; a loop  of  cloth  several  yards  long,  bordered 
at  the  hem  with  some  bright  color,  brought  snug  around  the  hips  and 
tucked  in  at  the  waist  line.  Sandals,  and  bright  red  or  yellow  silk  ker- 
chiefs wound  coquettishly  around  the  head,  turban-wise,  complete  a 
very  piquant  costume.  They  are  true  Orientals  in  their  fondness  for 
brilliant  colors,  and  they  delight  to  wear  petticoats  of  a hue  that  would 
excite  the  envy  of  a macaw.  The  huipil  (a  Nahoa  name  for  an  embroid- 
ered chemise  or  waist),  an  elaborate  lace  affair  something  like  an  exag- 
gerated Elizabethan  ruff,  is  worn  on  special  occasions  and  adds  to  their 
unquestioned  attractiveness.  When  the  traveller  sees  this  singular  head- 
dress on  a pretty  Tehuana  girl,  he  thinks  of  some  frilled  enchantress  from 
an  unknown  fairyland.  The  huipil  is  sometimes  worn  hanging  down  the 
back,  and  then  it  recalls  the  trailing  eagle-plumes  or  the  war  panoply  of 
a Comanche  chief. 

These  olive-skinned  queens  of  the  tropics  possess  beautiful  sloe-black 
eyes,  superb  teeth  and  luxuriant  black  hair.  They  are  much  addicted 
to  wearing  gold  jewellery  (preferably  American  $20  gold  pieces),  and  a 
barefoot  houri  may  be  seen  wearing  a necklace  worth  thousands  of  dol- 
lars. They  bathe  often  and  are  clean.  Many  of  the  women  smoke  and 
some  of  the  children  are  almost  weaned  on  tobacco  fumes.  Like  certain 
other  native  mothers,  they  nurse  their  youngsters  until  they  are  3 or  4 
years  old,  and  it  is  no  uncommon  sight  to  see  a child  descend  from  its 
mother’s  knee,  after  a lacteal  repast,  repair  to  an  easy  chair,  light  a cigar- 
ette and  enjoy  an  after-dinner  smoke.  Children  are  sometimes  seen 
puffing  away  at  a cigar  almost  as  fat  as  their  own  little  legs.  Pulque,  the 
curse  of  the  highlands,  is  unknown  here,  and  the  fine  climate  seems  to 
counteract  the  effects  of  the  vice  of  smoking.  Many  of  the  men  twist 
silk  handkerchiefs  jauntily  about  their  heads,  and  this  custom  imparts  a 
gay  and  oriental  aspect  to  the  town.  Few  places  in  Mexico  afford  more 
picturesque  or  attractive  scenes  than  Tehuantepec  on  Sundays  or  dias 
de  fiesta.  The  town  usually  is  flooded  with  tropical  sunshine,  the  rounded 
church  domes  rise  toward  a faultless  blue  sky,  and  the  Spanish-Moorish 
houses,  with  flower  embowered  patios  and  balconies,  enhance  the  charm. 
When  the  women  appear  in  all  their  grace  of  form  and  dress  — for  they 
are  developed  like  Venuses  and  would  make  incomparable  models  for 
artists — the  effect  is  wholly  beguiling;  a felicitous  blend  of  southern 
Spain,  of  the  Orient,  of  Mexico,  and  the  lotus-eating  tropics.  The  cur- 
rent language  is  Zapotec  or  Tehuana;  the  pure-blood  natives  are  sup- 
posed to  be  the  descendants  of  the  once  powerful  Zapotecs,  who  built 
the  now  ruined  palaces  of  Mitla  (p.  537). 

A pretty  shaded  plaza  occupies  the  centre  of  the  town,  and  facing  it 
is  the  Palacio  Municipal,  a white  building  with  many  supporting  col- 
umns. T ehuantepec  is  the  seat  of  a bishopric,  and  the  Catholic  Church 
is  in  evidence.  None  of  the  half  score  or  more  churches  contain 
aught  to  interest  the  traveller.  The  largest,  La  Iglesia  de  Santo  Domingo , 
has  suffered  severely  from  earthquakes.  The  carcel  dates  from  1530. 


556  Route  63. 


SAUNA  CRUZ 


One  of  the  sights  of  the  town  is  the  old  fortress  which  was  the  headquar- 
ter' of  General  Porfirio  Diaz,  when  he  fought  through  this  region  during 
the  war  of  the  French  Intervention.  Hard  by  the  town,  are  the  Hot- 
Springs.  famed  locally  for  their  efficacy  in  rheumatic  and  allied  ailments. 
The  Ruins  of  Guerenguela  (horse  and  guide  necessary)  lie  in  the  midst 
of  a country  dotted  with  henequen  plants.  Giant  trees  grow  from  the 
roofs  of  ruinous  stone  buildings  whose  origin  is  lost  in  the  misty  past. 
The  trip  to  the  ruins  (consult  the  hotel  manager)  is  a bit  wearisome  and 
will  scarcely  repay  the  trouble,  time  or  expense.  The  jicaras  (gourds) 
made  at  Tehuantepec  are  something  like  the  Uruapan  ware  (p.  229)  and 
make  desirable  souvenirs. 

On  the  outskirts  of  the  town  the  rly.  crosses  a long  steel 
bridge  spanning  the  Tehuantepec  River.  At  flood  time,  the 
waters  reach  almost  to  the  rail.  Fine  view  up  and  down  stream 
and  a good  retrospective  vista  of  the  town.  291  K.  Pearson. 
The  train  crosses  a bleak  and  sandy  region,  eternally  whipped 
by  a strong  sea  breeze,  and  then  winds  through  a little  valley 
at  the  base  of  high  hills.  304  K.  Salina  Cruz,  see  below. 

Salina  Cruz.  Arrival.  The  i Hotel  Salina  Cruz,  $4  Am.  PL;  rooms  only 
S1-S2.  is  directly  across  the  street  to  the  r.  of  the  station.  Handbags 
i2  c.  Trunks  25  c.  each.  If  the  traveller  wishes  his  luggage  transferred 
to  the  quay  he  should  strike  a bargain  with  the  cargadcr  (comp.  p.  liifr). 
Hot' ! T ■ rminal,  3 squares  from  the  station;  American,  S3  to  $4,  Am.  PL 

Steamships  of  the  Pacific  Mail  S.  S.  Co.  ( Guzman  & Xymp.  Agts.), 
the  Mexican  States  Line  Baldomero  Jimenez,  agerde ),  and  the  Mexican 
Navigation  Co.  Sa njurjo,  Morreres  & Co.,  agentes),  make  Salina  Cruz  a 
regular  port  of  call.  For  approximate  sailing  dates  consult  the  agents  of 
the  lines  at  Salina  Cruz  or  Mexico  City.  The  inner  harbor,  where  still  water 
usually  prevails,  is  artificial,  and  ships  ride  30  ft.  above  what  was  formerly 
t he  < -11  town.  The  basin  is  protected  on  the  seaward  side  by  blocks  of  con- 
crete 6 by  1 3 by  17  metres,  the  bottoms  of  which  3re  40  ft.  below  the  sur- 
face.  A \v;Ji  of  rubble  faced  with  cement  protects  these  blocks  from  the 
sea.  The  entrance  to  the  inner  harbor  is  about  90  ft.  wide  and  is 
s>  mned  by  two  swing biidges.  Freight  vessels  come  alongside  the  wharf, 
e!  trie  cranes  lift  their  cargoes  and  transfer  them  to  waiting  cars,  and 
i f' -re  the  ships  are  loaded  again  their  discharged  cargoes  are  far  on  their 
v a v to.  or  are  being  unloaded  at,  Coatzacoalcos,  for  their  journey  on  the 
At  Lint  ic  Ocean.  The  fine  breakwaters  ( rompeoias ) which  form  the  outer 
L ir;  < -r  re  laid  on  a rubble  foundation,  10  ft.  below7  lowest  tidewater. 
The  iepth  of  the  walls,  which  are  surmounted  by  concrete  parapets  IS 
ft  v i it-,  i about  60  ft.  The  width  between  the  two  converging  points 
is  about  000  ft.  These  giant  arms  enclose  a harbor  space  of  about  20  su- 
; f i il  a- res.  The  E.  rompeoias  is  about  1 kilom.  long;  the  W.  about 
1 - : a kilo:n.  The  thousands  of  tons  of  blue  limestone  used  in  their  con- 
stru« uir.n  carne  from  the  Mirtequilla  quarries.  30  kilom.  inland  on  the 
rh.  liif.  The  Port  Works  were  constructed  by  the  English  contracting 
firm  of  S.  Pearson  Jk  Son,  Ltd. 

Salina  Cruz,  terminus  of  the  Trans-Isthmian  Railway  on 
the  Golfo  de  Tehuantepec , state  of  Oaxaca,  pop.  about  5,000 
(of  a floating  character),  lies  in  a semi-circular  or  ovaliform 
ha -in  formed  by  bare,  brown  hills  and  the  sea.  As  one  stands 
on  the  rly.  station  platform,  and  looks  back  at  the  hills  around 
which  the  train  passes,  they  present  an  apparently  unbroken 
front,  pierced  by  neither  highway  nor  railway.  The  wide, 
sandy  streets  are  much  patronized  bv  whirlwinds.  The  town  is 
swept  almost  continuously  by  a stiff  ocean  breeze  which  blows 
from  the  sea  during  the  day  and  returns  at  night.  It  serves 


ISTHMUS  OF  TEHUANTEPEC  63.  Rte.  557 


the  purpose  of  effectively  ridding  the  exposed  spots  of  mos- 
quitoes, which  here  nurse  a devouring  affection  for  the  travel- 
ler. The  fine  sand,  which  rides  on  the  wind  and  bombards 
every  visible  thing  in  the  town,  is  more  or  less  trying  to  the 
uninitiated.  It  slips  under  the  cover  of  one’s  watch,  drifts  into 
fountain  pens,  sifts  into  pockets,  and  produces  a constant 
gritty  taste  in  the  mouth.  The  place  resembles  a western 
frontier  town  in  transition,  and  unless  one  be  interested  in  the 
splendid  Port  Works  or  the  broad  Pacific  ocean,  whose  waves 
rush  up  in  glass-like  sheets  on  the  sandy  beach,  it  offers  no- 
thing of  particular  interest  to  the  stranger. 

History.  El  Istmo  de  Tehuantepec,  in  the  humid  tropic  zone  of  south- 
ern Mexico,  which  stretches  across  the  states  of  Vera  Cruz  and  Oaxaca , 
7,000  ft.  below  the  great  Mex.  table-land,  and  along  the  narrowest  part 
of  the  Repub.,  with  a trend  from  N.  to  S.,  and  which  represents  one  of  the 
shortest  transcontinental  routes  in  America,  came  into  history  during  a 
conversation  between  Montezuma  II  and  Herndn  Cortes,  in  which  the 
latter  asked  the  monarch  where  his  vassals  secured  so  much  of  the  pre- 
cious gold:  Montezuma  named  several  places,  among  them  the  region 
which  lies  contiguous  to  the  old  city  of  Tehuantepec.  Soon  thereafter 
(1522)  Cortes  sent  Pizarro  (the  future  conqueror  of  Peru)  and  several  of 
his  soldiers  on  an  exploring  expedition  through  the  Isthmian  district. 
Pizarro  returned  not  on^  with  gold,  but  with  information  relating  to  the 
proximity  of  a great  ocean,  discovered  afterward  by  Vasco  Nunez _ de 
Bhlboa  and  named  the  Pacifico  (calm).  A second  expedition  under  Diego 
de  Ordaz  confirmed  Pizarro' s report.  After  the  fall  of  Tenochtitldn  a third 
party  was  dispatched  under  the  captaincy  of  Francisco  de  Orozco : the 
object  was  to  find  the  great  ocean,  locate  the  gold  mines,  and  open  a road 
through  southern  Mexico  to  the  Gulf.  Orozco  reported  the  territory  as 
being  so  very  rich  and  attractive  that  Cortes,  on  his  memorable  expedi- 
tion to  Honduras  (in  1524),  visited  the  region  himself.  At  the  request  of 
Cortes  the  Spanish  emperor  made  him  a grant  of  land  in  that  region,  and 
with  it  he  conferred  upon  Cortes  the  title  of  Marquis.  Cortes  was  known 
thereafter  as  the  Marquis  of  the  Valley  (of  Oaxaca)  and  the  land  was  held 
by  his  descendants  until  comparatively  recent  times.  This  grant  included 
22  towns  and  some  23,000  vassals,  including  their  lands  and  subordinate 
hamlets,  civil  and  criminal  jurisdiction,  offices  and  rentals,  and  with  full 
power  to  dispose  thereof  according  to  his  pleasure  and  that  of  his  heirs. 
It  is  curious  to  note  that  the  land  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Real 
Estate  Co.  of  Mexico  in  1908.  The  cattle  on  the  haciendas  are  still 
branded  with  the  cross  of  Santiago  (patron  of  the  Spaniards)  used  in  the 
days  of  the  Conquest.  The  original  grant  is  now  divided  into  three 
haciendas:  La  Venta,  Chicapa,  and  Tarifa,  and  they  are  still  known  as 
Las  Marquesadas  — estates  of  the  Marquis. 

The  Crown  policy  was  unfavorable  to  the  development  of  colonial  trade 
during  the  Spanish  domination  of  Mexico,  but  despite  this,  several  sur- 
veys for  an  interoceanic  route  across  the  Isthmus  were  made  — the  best 
among  the  early  ones  during  the  reign  of  Felipe  II,  and  later,  of  Charles 
III.  In  1774  the  Viceroy,  Antonio  M . de  Bucareli,  sent  the  engineer, 
Agustin  Cramer  (then  governor  of  the  Castle  of  San  Juan  de  XJlua,  at 
Vera  Cruz),  to  survey  the  territory.  He  was  the  first,  it  is  said,  to  pro- 
claim the  feasibility  of  a canal  across  this  neck  of  the  continent.  In  1824 
the  Government  of  the  Federal  District  sent  Colonel  Juan  deObregozo , and 
the  State  Government  of  Vera  Cruz  appointed  Don  Tadeo  Ortiz  to  act  con- 
jointly and  to  trace  out  a plan  for  rendering  the  Coatzacoalcos  River 
navigable;  the  idea  being  to  deepen  it  to  its  junction  with  the  Mala - 
tengo  River,  thence  construct  a carriage  road  to  the  nearest  point  on  the 
Pacific  coast.  The  commissioners  made  their  report  and  the  project  was 
abandoned.  Soon  thereafter  American  engineers  began  to  take  note  of 
this  region  — the  narrowest  portion  of  the  continent  north  of  Panama  — 
and  among  the  great  engineering  minds  was  that  of  Captain  J . B.  Eads , 


558  Rte,  64.  SAN  GERONIMO  TO  GUATEMALA 


who  at  one  time  visited  England  for  the  purpose  of  securing  capital  to 
build  his  much  discussed  Tehuantepec  Ship  Railway.  After  many  tribu- 
lations the  present  transcontinental  (and  transcendental)  railway  was 
formally  opened  for  traffic  Jan.  23,  1907,  and  President  Porfirio  Diaz , 
before  the  representatives  of  20  foreign  nations,  gave  the  signal  for  start- 
ing the  great  electric  crane  that  raised  15  bags  of  sugar  from  the  hold  of 
the  Steamship  Arizona,  at  Salina  Cruz.  Three  silver  keys  with  gold  orna- 
mentation were  used  in  the  official  opening  of  the  Ports  of  Salina  Cruz 
anil  Coatzacoalcos  — which  latter  was  rechristened  Puerto  Mexico,  in 
honor  of  the  occasion.  Even  blase  world  travellers  find  it  interesting  to  be 
able  to  breakfast  on  a veranda  overlooking  the  quiet  Gulf  of  Mexico  at 
Coatzacoalcos , and  on  the  evening  of  the  same  day  dine  within  sound  of 
the  surf  which  dashes  upon  the  shingly  beach  of  the  Pacific  Ocean. 


64.  From  San  Geronimo  to  the  Guatemalan  Frontier. 

PAN-AMERICAN  RAILWAY. 

4.5S  Kilom.  One  train  daily  from  Gamboa  station,  at  S.  Geronimo , 
1 Kilom.  N.  of  the  Tehuantepec  National  Station.  The  rly.  was  com- 
pleted to  the  Guatemala  border  in  1908,  and,  owing  to  its  newness,  the 
present  running  time  is  longer  than  it  will  be  when  all  the  bridges  are  in 
petition  and  the  road-bed  perfected.  The  management  issues  new  time- 
cards to  suit  the  exigencies  of  improved  conditions,  and  the  traveller  is 
advised  to  write  to  the  headquarters  of  the  rly.  at  San  Geronimo,  state  of 
Oaxaca . Mexico,  for  late  information  relating  to  arrival  and  departure  of 
trains,  fares,  etc.  For  information  relating  to  rly.  connections  between 
Mexiro  City  and  San  Geronimo,  comp,  route  52,  p.  484,  rte.  62,  p.  544,  and 
rt  e.  63.  p.  550.  The  rly.  follows  the  contour  of  the  coast  of  the  Pacific  Ocean 
( fine  views  at  certain  points)  and  trends  in  a southerly  and  south-easterly 
direction,  traversing  a marvellously  rich  (and  practically  undeveloped) 
country  (State  of  Chiapas)  characterized  by  dense  forests,  commanding 
mountains  (some  of  them  snow-capped)  and  plains  almost  as  level  as  a 
Kansas  prairie.  From  the  forests  (rich  in  precious  woods)  come  the  mahog- 
any ties  which  are  a unique  feature  of  the  rly.  The  jungles  produce  rare 
and  priceless  orchids  (comp.  p.  564),  gums  and  resins,  rubber,  cabinet- 
woo'ls  dye-woods,  cacao,  and  a wealth  of  tropical  and  sub-tropical  pro- 
duct s ; while  on  the  plains  are  vast  fields  of  sugar-cane  and  henequen,  and 
potrero s.  or  stock-farms — one  of  the  latter,  the  Guadalupe  Hacienda, 
comprising  upward  of  62,000  acres.  Many  rivers  are  crossed — some  of 
them  on  fine  granite  bridges.  The  line  will  eventually  form  a link  in  the 
vast  chain  01  railways  stretching  from  the  northernmost  part  of  the 
1'nit  • 1 St  it es  to  the  Argentine  in  South  America.  (It  is  estimated  that 
about  3.600  miles  must  yet  be  built,  before  this  project  can  be  realized.) 
The  Pan-American  follows  the  old  Camino  Real,  or  royal  highway,  built 
bv  t he  Spaniards  soon  after  the  Conquest,  to  connect  the  Isthmian  city  of 
Tehuantepec  with  Central  America. 

San  Geronimo  (p.  554).  The  first  important  town  on  the  Pan-American 
rly.  is 

17  K.  Juchitan  (Hold  del  Faro,  near  the  station:  $2  to  S2.50  Am.  PI.), 
an  ancient  town  of  16.000  inhab.  in  the  centre  of  a district  of  the  same 
name.  There  are  usually  about  6.000  soldiers  of  the  southern  detachment 
oi  ' he  national  army  garrisoned  here,  and  the  place  is  a sort  of  supply 
d<  p f for  many  miles  of  surrounding  country.  Great  quantities  of  salt 
m the  I goons  bordering  the  ocean,  are  shipped  hence,  and 
the  industry  b growing.  37  K.  Union  Hidalgo  (pop.  1,500),  point  of  depar- 
ture for  the  sometime  estate  known  as  La  Marquesada  of  Hernando 
Cort.  s.  and  referred  to  at  p.  557.  The  land  in  the  vicinity  is  amazingly 
rich  and  productive,  and  the  sugar  produced  on  the  estate  ranks  as  the 
tinea  of  the  region.  Certain  of  the  old  buildings  (erected  by  the  order  of 
Cortt  m 1530)  still  stand.  The  present  owner  of  the  hacienda.  SenorJose 
M aquro,  welcomes  and  is  courteous  to  visitors.  The  rly.  traverses  a fine 
but  broken  region,  and  soon  enters  the  foothills  of  the  coast  range  ( Sierra 


PAN-AMERICAN  RLY.  64.  Route . 559 


Madre).  We  get  entrancing  views  of  the  ocean  (on  the  r.).  Wide  lagunas 
with  many  water-fowl.  62  K.  Cerro  Loco , starting-point  for  the  near-by 
town  (pop.  6,000)  of  Niltepec,  on  the  river  of  the  same  name.  We  pass  the 
(unimportant)  stations  of  73  K.  Zopilote  and  76  K.  Ostuta  Tanque.  We 
cross  the  Ostuta  River  on  the  longest  bridge  (735  ft.)  on  the  line.  81  K. 
Reforma.  Six  Kilom.  to  the  S.  is  Ixthuatan  (pop.  1,500)  whence  quantities 
of  cured  fish  are  shipped  during  the  season.  Sixteen  Kilom.  to  the  north- 
ward lies  Zanatepec,  a pretty  town  which  calls  for  no  special  mention. 
The  rly.  traverses  a fertile  valley  devoted  to  the  cultivation  of  Indian 
corn.  The  rich  soil,  watered  by  frequent  rains  and  warmed  by  a sempi- 
ternal sun,  produces  bountifully,  and  one  crop  follows  another  as  fast  as 
it  can  be  sown  and  the  harvest  reaped.  Winter  is  unknown,  plant  life 
grows  with  almost  unexampled  vigor,  and  summer  is  eternal.  We  pass 
the  (nondescript)  stations  of  89  K.  San  Nicolas  and  98  K.  Las  Anonas. 

113  K.  Chahuites.  A short  distance  toward  the  N.,  in  the  centre  of  a 
rich  valley,  is  the  town  of  Tapana , with  2,000  inhab.  At  Kilom.  120  we 
enter  the  vast  estate  of  the  Guadalupe  Hacienda;  many  of  the  62,000 
acres  are  devoted  to  stock-raising.  From  this  point  comes  some  of  the 
fine  granite  used  in  the  bridge  construction  of  the  rly.,  and  many  of  the 
mahogany  ties  used  along  the  line.  Considerable  dye-wood  ( palo  de 
Brazil)  is  shipped  hence.  123  K.  Guadalupe.  132  K.  Jose  Mora.  142  K. 
Aurora , shipping  point  for  the  products  of  the  beautiful  and  fertile 
Cintalapa  Valley , perhaps  the  richest  section  contiguous  to  the  rly.  The 
henequen  fibre  (p.  583)  of  the  Santa  Catalina  Hacienda  (which  lies  in  the 
valley)  ranks  in  quality  with  the  celebrated  productions  of  Yucatan 
(p.  572).  The  town  of  Cintalapa  is  about  65  kilom.  from  Aurora  station. 
Conveyances  can  be  arranged  for  with  the  station  agent.  152  K.  Jalisco 
is  linked  to  the  town  of  Tuxtla  Gutierrez  (p.  568)  by  a government  wagon- 
road  140  kilom.  long.  (Fare  by  stage  from  Jalisco  to  T.  Gutierrez  $20.) 
Jalisco  is  usually  the  point  of  departure  for  the  towns  of  Chiapas , San 
Cristobal  las  Casas  (p.  566)  and  Comitdn  (p.  565). 

175  K.  Tonald,  a dainty  town  of  cleanly  whitewashed,  tile-roofed 
houses,  nestling  at  the  base  of  the  mts.,  and  recalling,  in.  its  general  ap- 
pearance, certain  Swiss  villages.  In  the  pretty  plaza  facing  the  Palacio 
Municipal  is  an  immense  Pochote,  or  “Cotton  Tree,”  which  shades  the 
entire  square.  Beneath  it  cluster  the  market  booths  wherefrom  is  sold  the 
produce  which  supplies  the  8,000  inhabitants  of  the  place.  The  town  is 
one  of  the  most  important  of  the  region  and  contains  a number  of  banks 
and  commercial  houses.  In  the  mts.  (about  3 hrs.  on  foot)  behind  the 
town  are  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  city  which  Prof.  Hewitt  (of  the  Smithson- 
ian Institution)  believes  once  formed  a link  between  the  Casas  Grandes 
(p.  54)  of  Chihuahua , the  ancient  Mixtec  Palaces  (p.  537)  of  Oaxaca  and 
the  ruins  of  Yucatan  (p.  580).  A stone  in  one  of  the  huge  walls,  or  pare- 
dones,  some  15  ft.  above  the  surface  of  the  ground,  is  estimated  to  weigh 
at  least  10  tons.  How  so  large  a stone  was  rolled  up  the  mountain  and 
placed  in  its  position  one  can  only  conjecture.  No  trace  of  the  inhabitants 
of  this  silent  city  can  be  found,  and  history  contains  no  record  of  them. 
The  ruins  perhaps  antedate  the  Conquest.  The  region  roundabout  evi- 
dently supported  a vast  population  in  the  dim  ages  of  the  past.. 

For  200  Kilom.  southward  from  Tonald  the  rly.  traverses  a rich  fruit 
region,  where  the  fertility  of  the  soil  has  made  work  unnecessary,  and 
where  the  natives  dwell  in  a sort  of  happy  summer  dreamland ; unmindful 
of  the  flight  of  time,  and  disdaining  to  develop  the  wonderful  resources 
with  which  Nature  has  endowed  the  land.  Some  of  the  finest  rubber,  the 
best  tobacco  and  the  choicest  coffee  and  cacao  come  from  this  district. 
The  Spanish  cedars  ( cedros ) of  the  forests  produce  magnificent  lumber 
that  cuts  up  into  lengths  of  50  ft.  or  more,  beside  a host  of  fine  woods 
that  fall  and  decay  for  the  lack  of  arms  to  prepare  them  for  the  market. 
Between  Tonala  and  (374  K.)  Huixtla , there  are  many  towns,  but  few 
of  them  are  of  any  importance.  (263  K.)  Pijijiapam , (311  K.)  Mapaste- 
pec , and  (339  K.)  Escuintla  (Aztec,  dog)  loom  large  on  the  map,  and  al- 
though nestling  in  beautiful  tropical  surroundings,  they  lack  energy  and 
are  decadent.  Huixtla  is  a shipping  point  for  the  many  coffee  fincas  (cafe- 
tales)  oi  the  immediate  vicinity.  Between  Huixtla  and  Tapachula  the  line 
crosses  a grazing  country  where  considerable  stock  is  raised  and  shipped 


560  Route  65. 


STATE  OF  TABASCO 


to  Guatemalan  towns.  Guatemalan  money  is  in  evidence  in  this  re- 
gi<  >n . and  it  passes  current  just  as  does  American  money  along  the  North- 
ern frontier  of  the  Republic. 

416  K Tapachula.  with  a handsome  tropical  alameda , stands  at  the 
base  of  the  fine  Taconak  volcano  (p.  563).  Southward  toward  the  Guate- 
mala boun  dary  are  two  equally  commanding  volcanoes:  TlacomuLco  and 
S :vta  Maria  — the  latter  subject  to  violent  outbursts.  The  last  of  these 
occurred  in  1903,  destroying  a number  of  houses  and  covering  the  sur- 
rouu  ing  country  with  ashes  several  inches  deep.  From  Tapachula  the 
rly.  line  turns  sharply  to  the  right  and  leads  to  the  near-by  port  of  San 
B ’ A good  horse  will  carry  the  traveller  from  Tapachida,  across  the 
Suchiate  River  and  the  Southern  boundary  line  of  the  Kepub.,to  the  rly. 
line  in  Guatemala  (40  kiloms.)  in  a day.  Guatemala  City-  is  then  140  K. 
distant. 

65.  State  of  Tabasco. 

The  Gulf  Coast  State  of  Tabasco  (an  Indian  term  signifying  “damp 
earth”),  with  an  area  of  26,094  kilom.  and  a population  of  160,000,  is 
bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  on  the  E.  by  Campeche,  on  the 
S.  and  S.-E.  by  Chiapas  and  the  Republic  of  Guatemala  and  on  the  W. 
by  Vera  Cruz.  There  are  no  capes,  bays  or  sheltered  harbors  along  the 
coast  which  has  an  extension  of  190  kiloms.),  and  it  is  low  and  densely 
wooded,  but  vessels  find  anchorage  in  the  mouths  of  the  rivers,  behind 
the  bars  usually  formed  by  them  at  their  estuaries.  There  are  many 
rivers,  the  state  being  noted  as  the  best  watered  of  all  the  Mexican  pos- 
sessions. The  largest  is  the  Usumacinta , a noble  river  800  kiloms.  long 
an  . navigable  for  300  kiloms.  from  its  mouth.  The  second  largest  stream 
is  the  Grijalva , which  is  formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  Mexcalapa  and 
the  Tacotalpa . Minor  streams  abound  and  they  drain  a magnificently 
wooded  and  very  fertile  region.  The  chief  products  are  cacao,  sugar- 
cane, coffee,  tobacco,  rubber,  pepper,  vanilla,  a myriad  choice  tropical 
fr  and  an  exceptionally  long  list  of  splendid  cabinet  and  dye-woods, 
prominent-  among  them  the  mahogany  and  the  log- wood  tree  (p.  569). 
Ci.ii  it-cam  is  produced  and  exported  in  large  quantities.  It  is  estimated 
that  tl  - state  which  is  sparsely  inhabited  and  but  little  explored)  con- 
tains 125  haciendas  for  the  cultivation  of  the  cacao-bean:  S coffee  plan- 
t at  ions,  44  sugar-cane  plantations,  60  for  the  cultivation  of  cereals,  12 
for  tobacco,  and  125  cattle  ranchos.  Rum  to  the  value  of  $250,000,  log- 
wo<  : worth  $75,000,  $2,000,000  of  cacao,  $150,000  of  coffee,  $75,000 
of  tobacco,  and  $300,000  worth  of  chicle  are  annually  exported.  The 
tobacro  from  the  HuimanguiUo  District  ranks  among  the  best  in  the 
Repub.  The  Climate  is  healthy,  albeit  malarial  fevers  are  somewhat 
c on.  The  Fauna  is  unusually  extensive  and  comprises  the  tiger,  tiger- 
cat.  puma,  porcupine,  ant-bear,  monkey,  tapir,  fox,  armadillo,  wild-boar, 
d»  • t . :.n  \ so  forth.  These  animals  are  rarely  hunted.^  The  rivers  swarm 
with  fish  and  the  woods  are  alive  with  brilliant  tropical  birds. 

San  Juan  Bautista  (St.  John  the  Baptist),  capital  of  the 
State  of  Tabasco,  on  the  S.  shore  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  with  a 
population  of  10,600,  was  founded  in  1598  under  the  name 
of  Villa  FclijX'  II.  Later  the  name  was  changed  to  Villa  H cr- 
r?;  >.<a , — beaut  if  ul  town,  — and  in  1S26  to  its  present  title.  The 
Indian  name  for  it  was  Tabasco.  It  stands  on  a commanding 
site  on  the  margin  of  the  fine  Rio  Grijalva , on  alluvial  soil  with 
a >ub-stratum  of  stone.  The  region  is  celebrated  as  the  first 
spot  on  which  Cort/s  put  foot  (March  25,  1519)  on  Mexican 
soil . M uch  of  the  foreign  commerce  of  the  state  is  done  through 
this  port. 

Hotels  imp.  p.  xlvii).  Hotel  Juarez,  on  the  Catte  Juarez.  — Hot  A La 
Gahfm.  First  1 c.  dc  Grijalva  — Hotel  Zaragoza,  Second  .4 re.  Grijalva. 

$5  Am.  PL  — Banks:  Banco  de  Tabasco. 


HISTORY  OF  TABASCO  65.  Route.  561 


Steamships  : Los  Vapores  Correos  Mexicanos  (known  also  as  Com - 
pahia  de  Navegacion  en  los  Rios  Grijalva , U sumacinta  y Palizada),  oper- 
ate boats  on  the  rivers  mentioned  and  convey  passengers  to  Frontera , 
Jonuta,  Amatitan , Montecristo  (point  of  departure  for  the  Ruins  of  Pa - 
lenque,  p.  566),  Balancan , Tenosique,  and  other  points.  For  sailing  dates 
and  other  information,  write  or  apply  to  P.  Valenzuela,  Hijos  y Compafda, 
at  San  Juan  Bautista. 

Tram-cars  connect  the  town  with  several  suburban  places  — each  a 
veritable  tropical  hortus. 

The  Cathedral  dates  from  1614.  The  money  for  its  erection,  some 
$250,000,  was  subscribed  by  the  King  of  Spain,  the  residents  of  the  town, 
and  certain  Indians  of  the  neighborhood.  The  much  venerated  image 
of  the  Virgen  de  la  Victoria , called  Nuestra  Sehora  de  la  Conquista , dates 
from  the  first  Conquest  (in  1519)  by  Hernan  Cortes.  There  are  two  minor 
churches,  a Palacio  Legislativo,  and  a handsome  theatre. 

The  Rubber-Country  begins  a few  miles  out  of  San  Juan  Bautista  and 
extends  in  an  almost  unbroken  line  to  the  Guatemalan  frontier.  Some 
of  the  trees  are  magnificent  specimens,  measuring  6 ft.  or  more  in 
girth,  and  producing  on  an  average  of  10  gallons  (about  2 lbs.  of  rubber) 
of  milk  each  a year.  Some  of  the  haciendas  possess  upward  of  50,000 
rubber  trees.  These  are  usually  planted  from  12  to  30  ft.  apart,  with 
cacao  or  coffee  trees  between.  The  trees  mature  at  about  12  years  of 
age  and  thenceforth  they  produce,  where  carefully  cultivated  and 
watched,  about  i lb.  of  rubber  a year.  (They  will  produce  more  if  per- 
mitted to,  but  the  over-production  is  not  good  for  them.)  The  rubber 
district  is  one  of  extreme  beauty.  The  rainfall  is  almost  continuous  and 
the  region  is  amazingly  rich  and  very  tropical.  The  hacendados  are  hos- 
pitable to  a fault  and  no  traveller  ever  wants  for  bed  or  board.  As  a rule 
the  country  is  inaccessible  to  wheeled  vehicles.  Travellers  must  traverse 
the  region  on  horseback.  For  further  information  under  this  head,  con- 
sult Geographical  and  Statistical  Notes  on  Mexico,  by  Matias  Romero. 

History.  “ Sailing  from  the  Island  of  Cozomul  (March  4,  1519) 
Cortes  trimmed  his  course  along  the  coast  of  Yucatan.  He  doubled  Cape 
Catoche,  and  with  flowing  sheets  swept  down  the  broad  bay  of  Cam- 
peachy,  fringed  with  the  rich  dye-woods  which  have  since  furnished  so 
important  an  article  of  commerce  to  Europe.  He  passed  Potonchan, 
where  Cordova  had  experienced  a rough  reception  from  the  natives;  and 
soon  after  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  de  Tabasco , or  Grijalva,  in  which 
that  navigator  had  carried  on  so  lucrative  a traffic.  Though  mindful 
of  the  great  object  of  his  voyage,  — the  visit  to  the  Aztec  territories,  — ■ 
he  was  desirous  of  acquainting  himself  with  the  resources  of  this  country, 
and  determined  to  ascend  the  river  and  visit  the  great  towns  on  its  bor- 
ders. The  water  was  so  shallow,  from  the  accumulation  of  sand  at  the 
mouth  of  the  stream,  that  the  General  was  obliged  to  leave  the  ships  at 
anchor  and  to  embark  in  the  boats  with  a part  only  of  his  forces.  The 
banks  were  thickly  studded  with  mangrove  trees,  that,  with  their  roots 
shooting  up  and  interlacing  one  another,  formed  a kind  of  impervious 
screen  or  network,  behind  which  the  dark  forms  of  the  natives  were  seen 
glancing  to  and  fro  with  the  most  menacing  looks  and  gestures.  Cortes, 
much  surprised  at  these  unfriendly  demonstrations,  so  unlike  what  he 
had  had  reason  to  expect,  moved  cautiously  up  the  stream.  When  he 
had  reached  an  open  place,  where  a large  number  of  Indians  were  as- 
sembled, he  asked,  through  his  interpreter,  leave  to  land,  explaining  at 
the  same  time  his  amicable  intentions.  But  the  Indians,  brandishing 
their  weapons,  answered  only  with  gestures  of  angry  defiance.  Though 
much  chagrined,  Cortes  thought  it  best  not  to  urge  the  matter  further 
that  evening,  but  withdrew  to  a neighboring  island,  where  he  disem- 
barked his  troops,  resolved  to  effect  a landing  on  the  following  morning. 

“ When  day  broke  the  Spaniards  saw  the  opposite  bank  lined  with  a 
much  more  numerous  array  than  on  the  preceding  evening,  while  the 
canoes  along  the  shore  were  filled  with  armed  warriors.  Cortes  now  made 
his  preparations  for  the  attack.  He  first  landed  (March  25,  1519,  the 
first  landing  of  Cortes  on  Mex.  soil)  a detachment  of  a hundred  men  un- 
der Alonzo  de  Avila,  at  a point  somewhat  lower  down  the  stream,  shel- 
tered by  a thick  grove  of  palms,  from  which  a road,  as  he  knew,  led  to 


562  Route  65. 


HISTORY  OF  TABASCO 


the  town  of  Tabasco,  giving  orders  to  his  officers  to  march  at  once  on 
the  place,  while  he  himself  advanced  to  assault  it  in  front.  Then,  em- 
barking the  remainder  of  his  troops,  Cortes  crossed  the  river  in  face  of 
the  enemy;  hut,  before  commencing  hostilities,  that  he  might  ‘act  with 
entire  regard  to  justice,  and  in  obedience  to  the  instructions  of  the  Royal 
Council,’  he  first  caused  proclamation  to  be  made,  that  he  desired  only 
a free  passage  for  his  men,  and  that  he  proposed  to  revive  the  friendly 
relations  which  had  formerly  existed  between  his  countrymen  and  the 
natives.  He  assured  them  that  if  blood  were  spilt  the  sin  would  lie  on 
their  heads,  and  that  resistance  would  be  useless,  since  he  was  resolved 
at  all  hazards  to  take  up  his  quarters  that  night  in  the  town  of  Tabasco. 
This  proclamation,  delivered  in  lofty  tone,  was  answered  by  the  Indians 
— who  might  possibly  have  comprehended  one  word  in  ten  of  it  — with 
shouts  of  defiance  and  a shower  of  arrows. 

“ Cortts,  having  now  complied  with  all  the  requisitions  of  a loyal  cava- 
lier, and  shifted  the  responsibility  from  his  own  shoulders  to  those  of 
t lie  Royal  Council,  brought  his  boats  alongside  of  the  Indian  canoes. 
They  grappled  fiercely,  and  both  parties  were  soon  in  the  water,  which 
rose  above  the  girdle.  The  struggle  was  not  long,  though  desperate.  The 
superior  strength  of  the  Europeans  prevailed,  and  they  forced  the  enemy 
back  to  land.  Here,  however,  they  were  supported  by  their  countrymen, 
who  showered  down  darts,  arrows,  and  blazing  billets  of  wood  on  the 
heads  of  the  invaders.  The  banks  were  soft  and  slippery,  and  it  was  with 
difficulty  the  soldiers  made  good  their  footing.  Cortes  lost  a sandal  in  the 
mud,  but  continued  to  fight  barefoot,  with  great  exposure  of  his  person, 
as  the  Indians,  who  soon  singled  out  the  leader,  called  to  one  another, 
‘ St  rike  at  the  Chief!  ’ At  length  the  Spaniards  gained  the  bank,  and  were 
able  to  come  into  something  like  order,  when  they  opened  a brisk  fire  from 
their  arquebuses  and  cross-bows.  The  enemy,  astounded  by  the  roar 
and  flash  of  the  firearms,  of  which  they  had  had  no  experience,  fell  back, 
anil  retreated  behind  a breastwork  of  timber  thrown  across  the  way. 
The  Spaniards,  hot  in  the  pursuit,  soon  carried  these  rude  defences,  and 
drove  the  Tabascans  before  them  toward  the  town,  where  they  again 
took  shelter  behind  their  palisades.  Meanwhile  Avila  had  arrived  from 
the  opposite  quarter,  and  the  natives,  taken  by  surprise,  made  no  further 
attempt  at  resistance,  but  abandoned  the  place  to  the  Christians.  They 
had  previously  removed  their  families  and  effects.  Some  provisions  fell 
into  the  hands  of  the  victors,  but  little  gold,  ‘ a circumstance,’ says  Las 
Casas,  ‘which  gave  them  no  particular  satisfaction.’  Peter  Martyr  gives 
a glowing  picture  of  this  Indian  capital.  It  was  a populous  place.  The 
houses  were  mostly  of  mud;  the  better  sort  of  stone  and  lime:  affording 
proofs  in  the  inhabitants  of  a superior  refinement  to  that  found  on  the 
bland,  as  their  stout  resistance  had  given  evidence  of  superior  valor. 

“ A few  days  later  the  Indians  returned  to  the  neighborhood  and  a 
fierce  battle  was  fought  about  a league  from  the  Indian  town.  Though 
s<»rely  pressed,  the  Spaniards  were  victorious.  The  field  of  battle  was 
made  the  site  of  a town  called,  in  honor  of  the  day  on  which  the  action 
took  place,  Santa  Maria  de  la  Victoria , long  afterwards  the  capital  of  the 
province.  The  Tabascans  had  lost  their  relish  for  further  hostilities. 
The  principal  caciques  gave  themselves  up  to  the  victors  and  friendly 
ourse  was  established.  The  next  day  — Palm  Sunday  — Mass 
w - celebrated,  at  which  several  thousand  Indians  of  both  sexes  were 
These  solemnities  concluded,  Cortes  and  his  men  returned  to 
th«  ir  -hips,  well  satisfied  with  the  impression  made  on  the  new  converts, 
an  ! with  the  conquest  achieved  for  Castile  and  Christianity.  The  sol- 
di* r-,  taking  leave  of  their  Indian  friends,  entered  the  boats  with  palm 
branches  in  their  hands,  and  embarked  on  board  their  vessels.  A fa- 
vorable breeze  was  blowing,  and  the  little  navy,  opening  its  sails  to  re- 
cc  i\  e it,  was  soon  on  its  way  again  to  the  golden  shores  of  Mexico.” 

After  the  Conquest  of  Yucatan  the  Villa  Victoria  was  settled  by  Span- 
ish an  I Me  tiso  families.  The  site  was  found  to  be  unhealthy  and  it  was 
rei  ved  to  the  spot  now  occupied  by  San  Juan  Bautista  — so  called  bv 
re  nofthedav  on  which  the  transfer  was  made.  In  1598,  Felipe  II  con- 
ceiled  to  San  Juan  Bautista  the  title  of  Villa  Hermosa  (beautiful  town). 
On  Oct.  27,  1826,  the  name  was  changed  to  San  Juan  Bautista  de  Tabasco . 


STATE  OF  CHIAPAS  66.  Route.  563 


66.  State  of  Chiapas. 

Chiapas,  the  southernmost  Mexican  state  (pop.  360,599, 
area  70,524  sqr.  kilom.),  one  of  the  richest  but  least  known 
of  the  Mex.  possessions,  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Estado  de 
Tabasco , on  the  E.  by  the  Republica  de  Guatemala , on  the  S. 
by  the  Gulf  of  Tehuantepec , and  on  theW.  by  Vera  Cruz  and 
Oaxaca.  Its  12  political  divisions  are  noted  for  their  large 
Indian  population — : about  164,000.  The  capital  is  Tuxtla 
Gutierrez , 530  metres  above  sea-level  with  a population  of 
23,000.  As  the  state  lies  but  16°  N.  of  the  equator,  under 
a semi-tropical  sun  and  in  a splendidly  watered  region,  it  is 
marvellously  productive. 

The  Sierra  Madre  Mts.  cross  the  S.  portion  from  S.-E.  to  N.-W., 
leaving  between  them  and  the  Pacific  Ocean  a strip  of  land  varying  from 
10  to  40  miles  wide,  cut  off  from  the  rest  of  the  state  by  its  mountain 
barrier,  amazingly  rich,  very  tropical,  and  the  home  of  the  cacao-bean, 
coffee,  sugar-cane,  and  many  valuable  products.  A dense  forest,  abound- 
ing in  precious  cabinet  and  dye-woods,  is  a feature  of  this  strip,  which  is 
watered  by  many  small  streams  that  burst  from  the  mt.  sides  and  empty 
into  the  Pacific  Ocean.  At  the  extreme  S.  end  of  this  ribbon  of  land,  in 
the  Soconusco  district  (famed  for  its  splendid  cacao),  rises  the  majestic  Ta- 
conah  Volcano,  11,970  ft.  high.  The  dividing  line  which  separates  Mex- 
ico and  Guatemala  passes  across  its  summit.  On  this  giant  arm  of  the 
cordilleras  are  the  clustered  mts.  known  as  Los  Tres  Picos  — the  three 
peaks.  In  the  Districts  of  Palenque  (celebrated  for  some  of  the  finest 
ruins  on  the  continent),  Simojovel  and  Pichucalco,  the  foot-hills  of  the 
Sierra  Madre  are  marked  by  an  exuberant  and  beautiful  tropical  vege- 
tation. On  the  E.  plateau,  known  as  the  Desierto  de  los  Lacandones 
(desert  of  the  Lacandon  Indians),  there  rises  the  Cerro  de  Ixbul,  across 
whose  summit  also  passes  the  imaginary  line  which  separates  the  two 
republics.  The  vast  plain  of  this  region  is  watered  by  the  Usumacinta 
River , which  rises  in  Guatemala,  serves  as  a section  of  the  dividing  line 
between  that  country  and  Chiapas,  crosses  the  contiguous  state  of  Ta- 
basco and  ends  its  500  kilom.  journey  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The  Chiapa 
or  Mezcalapa  River  also  rises  in  Guatemala,  crosses  Chiapas  from  N.-E. 
to  S.-W.,  passes  through  the  state  of  Tabasco  under  the  name  of  the  Rio 
Grijalva  (named  for  the  chief  pilot  of  Herndn  Cortes ),  and  empties  into 
the  Gulf  of  Mex.  554  kilom.  from  its  source.  Both  of  these  splendid 
rivers  are  navigable  the  greater  part  of  their  length ; steamboats  come 
up  the  Mezcalapa  to  within  70  M.  of  the  state  capital.  Few  railways 
(the  most  important  is  the  Pan-American,  described  at  p.  558)  exist 
in  Chiapas,  and  much  of  the  travel  is  by  waterways.  Six  rivers  penetrate 
the  state,  forming  the  communication  between  the  different  sections. 
Entering  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  by  the  Grijalva  River,  one  passes  into 
the  Mezcalapa  district.  Pichucalco  is  reached  by  ascending  the  Blan- 
quillo  River;  Palenque  and  Chacamas  by  the  Tulija  River.  The  chief 
ports  are  San  Benito  and  Tonald,  both  on  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

The  Fauna  and  Flora  cover  a wide  range.  The  former  embraces  60 
species  of  mammals,  100  birds,  40  reptiles,  9 batrachians,  40  fishes,  and 
almost  numberless  insects,  myriapoda  (thousand-legged  insects),  crus- 
taceans, mollusks,  corals,  sponges,  and  the  like.  Cochineal  insects  (p.  543) 
abound;  likewise  the  mollusk  called  Aplisia  depilans,  much  used  by  the 
Indians  as  a dye  substance  — a product  said  to  be  the  same  dye  known 
to  the  ancients  as  lepus  marinu,  which  produced  the  purple  of  Tyre,  in 
Asia  Minor.  The  beautiful  Quetzal  (the  Aztec  Bird-of-Paradise)  makes 
its  home  in  the  dense,  unexplored  forests,  which  are  also  the  resort  of 
wild-turkevs,  wood-pigeons,  pheasants,  and  a small  world  of  feathered 
marvels.  The  lakes  and  rivers  swarm  with  fish,  and  mother-of-pearl  is 
found  in  the  adjacent  sea.  Leopards,  tigers,  wild-boars,  deer,  lynxes, 


564  Route  66. 


ORCHIDS 


monkeys,  hares,  rabbits,  squirrels,  and  whatnot,  live  on  the  mt.  slopes. 
The  beautiful  American  Egret  ( Herodias  egretta ) is  .found  on  the  coast 
near  Tonald  and  Soconuseo. 

The  Flora  comprises  70  classes  of  cabinet-woods,  50  different  kinds  of 
timber,  40  varieties  of  fruits,  30  textile  plants,  22  tanning,  25  oleaginous, 
15  poisonous,  and  many  aromatic  and  medicinal  plants,  36  dye-woods, 
30  gums  and  resins,  15  forage  plants,  roots,  leaves,  barks,  and  myriad 
flowers.  Among  these  are  orchids  that  rank  with  the  finest  in  America. 
The  ziquilite  plant  which  produces  indigo  (Sp . = aiiil,  Aztec  = Xiuh- 
quilipitzahuac)  thrives  luxuriantly  ; also  the  saffron  and  a plant  called 
curcumaque,  which  produces  a beautiful  yellow  color.  From  the  pulp 
of  the  seed  vessel  of  the  Annota  ( Bixa  orellana ) a fine  red  coloring  sub- 
stance is  obtained,  and  from  a host  of  other  plants  as  many  coloring  and 
medicinal  products  are  extracted. 

Much  of  the  cacao  (from  the  Aztec  cacahuatl,  or  peanut)  of  commerce 
has  its  origin  in  the  Soconuseo  District  of  Chiapas.  The  forests  produce 
almost  every  variety  of  tree  that  grows  in  equatorial  soil.  The  ebony, 
mahogany,  fig,  balsam,  rubber,  log- wood,  orange,  pine,  walnut,  cypress 
(in  the  foot-hills),  Brazil-wood  (used  in  making  dyes),  Chinchona  (which 
produces  the  quinine  of  commerce),  the  cork,  royal  palm,  and  cocoanut 
are  but  a few  of  them.  From  the  life  juices  of  certain  of  the  myriad  plants 
are  taken  copal,  liquid-amber,  incense,  and  a wide  variety  of  products. 
Excellent  oranges  grow  side  by  side  with  lemons,  limes,  tamarinds, 
mangoes,  aguacates,  mamayes,  zapotes,  pineapples,  plums,  peaches, 
bananas,  figs,  and  whatnot.  Chief  among  the  multitudinous  products  are 
coffee  .about  4,500,000  trees  in  the  state),  sugar,  tobacco,  rice,  cotton, 
henequdn,  vanilla,  sarsaparilla,  and  a wide  range  of  cereals.  Many  cattle 
and  horses  are  raised,  and  the  exportation  of  crocodile  skins  nets  a large 
revenue.  Considerable  rubber  (hide)  is  produced,  and  it  thrives  well  in  the 
Pi<'hucalco  district,  where  there  are  said  to  be  upward  of  3,000,000  rub- 
ber trees.  The  rubber  plantations  are  often  referred  to,  and  confounded 
with,  cacao  plantations,  as  the  rubber  and  cacao  trees  are  usually  planted 
near  to  each  other  just  as  are  coffee  trees  and  banana-plants.  Henequen 
raising  (comp.  p.  583)  is  becoming  a valuable  industry. 

Orchids  (Sp.  Orquidea ) is  the  name  of  a group  of  plants 
(order  Orchidaceoe)  containing  more  than  12,000  known  species 
and  some  thousands  of  varieties,  many  of  which  are  highly 
valuable  commercially.  They  are  as  a whole  by  far  the  most 
interesting  order  of  plants  of  the  entire  vegetable  kingdom, 
because  of  their  extraordinary  mode  of  growth  and  existence, 
their  curious  habits,  and  the  varied  form  of  their  flowers, 
which  are  distinct  from  all  other  classes  of  plants,  fine  in  tex- 
ture, and  of  glowing  and  exquisite  colors. 

“Orchids  are  distributed  over  a considerable  area  of  Mexico,  where 
they  are  classified  according  to  their  habit  of  growth  and  subsistence 
' ft  epiphytal,  ana  terrestrial.  The  first-named  class  includes 
the  more  inferior  species,  which  grow  mostly  in  wet  and  marshj'  places, 

; g,  are  of  little  value  for  botanical  purposes.  The 
r;>  /TyM/  group  is  bv  far  the  most  valuable  and  the  most  important  of 
them  all  in  every  respect.  The  species  of  this  section  are  often  errone- 
o T v called  parasites,  when  it  is  a fact  that  not  one  of  the  whole  orchid 
f unilv  is  a parasite.  Nearly  all  the  members  of  this  class  grow  and 
thrive  best  upon  the  trunks  and  limbs  of  trees  in  mid  air,  simply  clinging 
to  sin  : • stem  or  small  limb,  and,  therefore,  sometimes  quite  properly 
called  air-plants.  It  is  this  group,  too,  which  contains  the  most  beautiful 
nii'  1 m"d  valuable  species  and  varieties  and  the  most  varied  colors. 
Their  natural  habitats  are  generally  confined  to  tropical  and  sub-tropi- 
cal climates,  where  the  moisture-laden  and  humid  atmosphere  affords 
the  most  congenial  nourishment.” 

The  nv"t  valuable  variety  of  orchid  in  Mexico  is  perhaps  the  Citrina 
of  the  genus  Cattleya,  one  of  the  most  prized  among  all  orchids.  It  is 


History.  INDIAN  TRIBES  66.  Route.  565 

usually  found  in  the  remote  fastnesses  of  the  forests  of  the  tierra  caliente 
and  is  sought  by  Indian  hunters  employed  for  the  purpose.  Closely 
allied  to  the  genus  Cattleya  is  the  Lcelia , the  varieties  of  which  most  com- 
mon in  Mexico  are  L.  anceps;  L.  autumnalis;  L.  gouldiana  ; L.alba;L. 
albida;  L.  majollis;  and  L.  digbiana.  Of  the  genus  Oncidium,  which  em- 
braces many  beautiful  species  and  varieties,  there  are  also  to  be  found 
the  Oncidium  splendidum,  the  0.  cavendishianum , and  the  0.  tigrinum. 
The  Inseleyii  leopardinum  of  the  genus  Odontoglossum  is  one  of  the  most 
gorgeous  of  the  forest  flowers  of  the  hot  lands.  In  Europe  and  America, 
where  efforts  are  being  continually  made  to  cultivate  this  wonderful  plant 
in  hot-houses,  almost  fabulous  prices  are  paid  for  fine  specimens.  Bot- 
anists of  different  nationalities  are  often  met  with  in  Mexico  seeking  these 
plants.  There  are  several  species  of  the  Lycasta,  Stanhopia,  Chysis, 
Schomburgkia,  and  other  less  known  varieties  in  the  Repub. 

There  are  about  14  distinct  Indian  Tribes  in  Chiapas , each  with  its 
own  language.  The  curious  assertion  has  been  made  that  some  of  these 
Indians  (who  mix  as  little  as  possible  with  the  whites)  are  able  to  com- 
municate telepathically  across  hundreds  of  miles  of  space,  employing 
in  the  operation  a sort  of  native  wireless  telegraphy  whose  secrets  are 
guarded  from  all  uitlanders.  Comitan,  one  of  the  southernmost  Chiapas 
towns  (1,337  kilom.  from  Mexico  City  and  but  19  kilom.  from  the 
Guatemalan  frontier),  the  centre  of  a large  trade  in  sugar  and  cattle,  is 
noted  for  the  manufacture  of  a kind  of  strong  brandy,  called  Comiteco, 
made  from  a species  of  maguey  plant.  Noteworthy  features  of  certain  of 
these  southern  Chiapas  towns  are  the  Marimba  players,  or  performers  on 
the  musical  instrument  called  Marimba  — a bizarre  object  (perhaps  Afri- 
can in  origin)  shaped  like  a zylophone,  on  collapsible  legs,  and  which  is 
played  upon  by  four  men  at  one  time.  The  instrument  is  rarely  seen  N.  of 
Chiapas , but  it  is  very  common  throughout  Central  America.  Albeit  Chia- 
pas lies  in  the  torrid  zone  the  topographical  inequalities  of  the  state  pro- 
duce several  Climates.  Along  the  coast  it  is  hot  and  in  many  places  un- 
healthy. The  Valley  of  San  Cristobal  is  cool  and  sometimes  cold.  In 
certain  regions  the  climate  is  temperate  and  agreeable.  In  the  Districts 
of  Comitan , Chiapa,  La  Libertad , and  Tuxtla  the  rain-fall  is  moderate;  in 
the  remaining  regions  it  is  excessive. 

History.  Some  historians  believe  Chiapas  to  have  been  the  cradle  of 
the  human  race.  Its  ruins  are  world-renowned  and  of  the  greatest  interest. 
The  name  Chiapas  is  supposed  to  be  derived  from  the  Indian  vocable 
Tepetchia,  signifying  ‘‘Battle  mountain.”  The  origin  of  the  people  who 
first  inhabited  the  region  is  shrouded  in  the  deepest  mystery.  According 
to  some  historians  they  came  from  Nicaragua:  others  believe  them  an 
offshoot  of  the  wandering  tribes  who  in  ages  past  inhabited  the  vast  con- 
tinent of  North  America  in  general,  and  the  great  Mexican  plateaux  in 
particular.  The  ruins  of  Pcdenque  and  Ococingo  have  astonished  every 
traveller  who  has  visited  them,  by  their  evidences  of  an  advanced  civili- 
zation, in  which  mental  culture  predominated.  The  dialects  spoken  by 
the  various  peoples  who  in  times  past  have  dwelt  in  the  state  are  the 
Tzotzil,  Tzendal,  Trokeck , Zoque , Maya,  Marne,  Chiche,  and  Mexican. 
These  dialects  are  still  spoken  by  the  descendants  of  the  vanished  races 
that  once  swarmed  over  this  section. 

The  earliest  historical  records  mention  an  invasion  of  the  Ulmecos 
who  secured  possession  of  the  country  and  dominated  the  Chiapanecos 
(natives  of  Chiapas ) and  finally  drove  them  to  Guatemala.  Later  came 
the  Toltecs,  who  in  turn  were  overthrown  by  Ahuizotl,  one-time  head  of 
the  Mexican  Empire.  This  was  the  condition  of  the  country  when  it  was 
invaded  by  the  Spaniards.  Owing  to  its  inaccessibility  some  time  passed 
after  the  Spaniards  reached  the  coast  of  Mexico  before  Chiapas  was  added 
to  their  laurels.  Finally  Cortes  sent  Don  Diego  de  Mazariego  on  an  ex- 
pedition against  the  valiant  defenders  of  the  country.  This  expedition 
failed  and  was  supplemented  by  another.  This  time  Cortes  strengthened 
the  equipment  by  the  addition  of  five  pieces  of  artillery  that  he  had  des- 
tined for  that  portion  of  the  Spanish  fleet  bound  south  on  a voyage  of 
further  discovery.  Mazariego,  on  reaching  Chiapas,  met  with  a resistance 
even  stouter  than  the  first.  The  people  were  more  intelligent  than  the 
bloodthirsty  inhabitants  of  Tenochtitldn,  and  they  fought  with  a bravery 


56G  Route  66. 


RUINED  CITIES 


that  astonished  the  invaders.  Retiring  to  a mountain  where  there  was 
a ~'>rt  of  fortress,  they  defended  it  against  the  mail-clad  Spaniards  with 
such  shrewdness  that  Mazariego  lost  many  of  his  men.  But  finally  the 
terrible  foreigners  prevailed,  and  the  disheartened  Indians,  preferring 
death  to  captivity,  threw  their  wives  and  children,  and  finally  them- 
selves, from  the  heights  into  a boiling  river  that  ran  through  a deep 
canon  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain.  But  very  few  were  taken  captives. 
These  were  treated  with  benevolence,  and  in  time  they  founded  a city 
(supposed  to  be  the  present  city*  of  Chiapa ) 7 kilom.  distant  from  the 
scene  of  the  battle. 

Struck  by  the  astonishing  fertility7  and  beauty  of  the  country,  Maza- 
riego decided  to  found  a Spanish  city  within  its  confines.  This  was  done, 
and  on  the  31st  of  March,  152S,  Villa  Real  (royal  town)  was  founded  on 
the  spot,  which  is  the  present  site  of  San  Cristobal  Las  Casas.  Mazariego 
was  a humane  man  with  advanced  ideas,  and  the  city  in  the  wilderness 
flourished  from  its  inception.  The  first  Audiencia  de  Mexico  elected 
Don  Juan  Enrique  de  Guzman  to  supersede  Mazariego , and  the  excel- 
lent work  done  by  the  founder  was  soon  invalidated.  Guzman,  in  his 
hatred  for  Mazariego , changed  the  name  of  the  place  and  called  it  Villa- 
viciosa  (vicious  town),  expressing,  at  the  same  time,  his  determination 
to  mulct  any  one  to  the  amount  of  50  gold  doubloons  who  might  call  it 
bv  another  name.  By  a royal  decree  promulgated  Nov.  20,  1542,  the 
so-called  “ Audiencia  de  los  Confines ” (Captaincy  General  of  Guatemala) 
was  created.  This  embraced  the  provinces  of  Honduras , Nicaragua, 
Soconusco . Chiapas,  Tabasco,  and  Yucatan.  From  that  date  Chiapas 
was  considered  a province  of  Guatemala,  but  on  August  29,  1821,  it 
proclaimed  its  independence  of  Spain.  Onct,  free  it  spontaneously  de- 
clared its  adherence  to  the  Mex.  Repub.  (Sept.  29,  1822).  Later,  finding 
that  it  had  no  voice  in  the  matter  of  how  the  country  should  be  con- 
ducted, it  regained  its  sovereignty,  but  presently  rejoined  the  confedera- 
tion. After  the  revolution  of  Ayutla,  by  a decree  promulgated  by  the 
political  constitution  of  the  United  Mexican  States,  Feb.  5,  1857,  Chia- 
pas was  elevated  to  the  rank  of  a free  and  sovereign  state  of  the  Fedcra- 
ciori  Mrxicana,  and  as  such  it  issued  its  Political  Constitution  Feb.  4, 
1858.  Education  is  obligatory  in  Chiapas,  but  its  propagation  is  difficult 
owing  to  the  diversity  of  races  and  dialects,  and  to  the  fact  that  the 
Indians  cling  persistently  to  their  ancient  customs. 

That  the  amazing  richness  of  this  little  explored  state 
was  known  to  the  early  tribes  is  shown  by  the  fact  that  within 
its  confines  are  Ruins  of  Ancient  Cities  which  rank  among 
the  finest  on  the  American  continent.  Owing  to  their  isolation, 
and  to  the  lack  of  rlvs.,  these  ruins,  the  chief  among  which  are 
Palenque  ( palemke  — a word  of  Spanish  origin  and  meaning 
stockade  or  an  enclosure  of  palisades),  are  rarely  visited  by 
others  than  the  natives  dwelling  in  the  vicinity. 

Visitors  to  the  ruins  must  carry  a camping  outfit  and  food, 
and  must  camp  in  the  neighborhood.  Indians  make  the  best- 
guides;  they  are  usually  to  be  found  at  Montecristo , the  point 
of  departure  from  the  river.  More  than  one  should  be  taken 
along,  as  the  journey  is  apt  to  be  arduous,  and  illness  is  not 
uncommon. 

The  best  way  to  reach  Palenque  is  by  steamship  of  the 
Mexican  Navigation  Co.  from  Vera  Cruz  (p.  470)  or  Coat- 
zacoalcos  (p.  550)  to  the  port  of  Frontera , State  of  Tabasco, 
thence  up  the  Usumaeinta  (see  p.  561)  to  (150  M.)  Monte- 
cristo. The  Ruins  are  30  M.  in  a northeasterly  direction 
(about  2 days’  travel)  from  Montecristo,  and  6 M.  N.  of  the 


RUINS  OF  PALENQUE  6b.  Route . 567 


Indian  Village  of  Palenque,  on  the  far  side  of  the  Chimchivol 
River.  Before  undertaking  the  trip  the  traveller  should  seek 
the  advice  of  some  official  in  the  Department  of  Anthropology 
(comp.  p.  425),  at  Mexico  City,  and  also  consult  an  agent  of 
the  Mexican  Navigation  Co. 

The  Ruins  of  Palenque1  were  the  first  which  awakened 
attention  to  the  existence  of  ancient  and  unknown  cities  in 
tropical  America.  In  1750  a party  of  Spaniards  travelling  in 
the  interior  penetrated  to  the  lands  N.  of  the  district  of  Carmen , 
in  the  province  of  Chiapas,  when  all  at  once  they  found,  in  the 
midst  of  a vast  solitude,  the  remains  of  a city,  some  20  M.  in 
extent,  known  to  the  Indians  as  the  Casas  de  Piedras  (stone 
houses).  The  existence  of  such  a city  was  entirely  unknown: 
there  had  been  no  mention  of  it  in  any  books,  and  no  tradition 
that  it  had  ever  been.  It  is  thong  ht  to  have  been  abandoned 
as  early  as  the  12th  century.  To  this  day  it  is  not  known  by 
what  name  it  was  called,  and  the  only  appellation  given  to  it  is 
that  of  Palenque,  after  the  village  near  which  the  ruins  stand. 
The  whole  country  for  miles  around  is  covered  by  a dense 
forest  of  gigantic  trees,  with  a growth  of  brush  and  underwood 
impenetrable  in  any  direction  except  by  cutting  a way  with  a 
machete.  What  lies  buried  in  the  adjacent  forest  is  still  a 
mystery,  as  one  might  go  within  100  ft.  of  all  the  buildings 
without  discovering  one  of  them.  These  palaces  of  stone  and 
stucco,  elaborately  carved,  painted  and  covered  with  pe- 
troglyphs,  are  evidently  the  work  of  a polished  and  cultivated 
people  who  reached  their  finest  achievement  in  these  humid 
forests,  then  perished  entirely  unknown,  and  left  behind  them 
not  even  a name  to  distinguish  their  peculiar  civilization.  That 
this  was  of  a high  order  is  evidenced  by  the  splendid  tablets 
and  other  relics  now  in  the  National  Museum  at,  Mex.  City. 

“Unlike  Copan,  yet  buried,  too,  ’mid  trees, 

Upspringing  there  for  sumless  centuries, 

Behold  a royal  city,  vast  and  lone, 

Lost  to  each  race,  to  all  the  world  unknown 
Like  famed  Pompeii  ’neath  her  lava  bed, 

Till  chance  unveiled  the  ‘Citv  of  the  Dead.’ 

Palenque!  seat  of  kings!  as  o’er  the  plain, 

Clothed  with  thick  copse,  the  traveller  toils  with  pain, 

Climbs  the  rude  mound  the  shadowy  scene  to  trace, 

He  views  in  mute  surprise  thy  desert  grace. 

At  every  step  some  palace  meets  his  eye, 

Some  figure  frowns,  some  temple  courts  the  sky: 

It  seems  as  if  that  hour  the  verdurous  earth, 

By  genii  struck,  had  given  these  fabrics  birth, 

Save  that  old  Time  hath  flung  his  darkening  pall 
On  each  tree-shaded  tower  and  pictured  wall.” 

(Southey’s  Madoc .) 


1 The  best  detailed  description  of  the  ruins  is  to  be  found  in  John  L. 
Stephens’  Incidents  of  Travel  in  Central  America , Chiapas  and  Yucatan. 
Consult  also  Native  Races,  by  Hubert  Howe  Bancroft;  Prescott’s  Con- 
quest of  Mexico  ; Holmes’  Ancient  Cities  of  Mexico  ; Morgan’s  Houses  and 
House  Life  of  the  American  Aborigines. 


568  Route  66  TUXTLA  GUTIERREZ 


A singularly  beautiful  insect  is  found  in  and  near  the  Palenque  ruins. 
To  the  early  Spanish  chroniclers  they  were  known  as  shining  beetles;  the 
historian  describes  them  as  “Somewhat  smaller  than  Sparrows,  having 
two  stars  close  by  their  Eyes,  and  two  more  under  their  Wings,  which  gave 
so  great  a light  that  by  it  they  could  spin,  weave,  write,  and  paint;  and 
the  Spaniards  went  by  night  to  hunt  the  Utios,  or  little  Rabbits  of  that 
country;  and  a-fishing,  carrying  these  Animals  tied  to  their  great  Toes 
or  Thumbs;  and  they  called  them  Locuyos , being  also  of  use  to  save  them 
from  the  Gnats,  which  are  there  very  troublesome.  They  took  them  in 
the  Night  with  Firebrands,  because  they  made  to  the  light,  and  came 
when  called  by  their  Name;  and  they  are  so  unwieldy  that  when  they 
fall  they  cannot  rise  again;  and  the  Men  stroaking  their  Faces  and  Hands 
with  a sort  of  Moisture  that  is  in  those  Stars,  seemed  to  be  afire  as  long 
as  it  lasted.” 

This  insect,  which  is  common  to  the  tropical  forests  bordering  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico,  belongs  to  a family  of  beetles  known  as  the  Elateridce,  and 
is  called  by  the  Indians  cucuji.  Seen  by  day,  this  Elater  firefly  is  a large 
beetle,  of  a greenish  black,  a trifle  more  than  an  inch  long.  When  resting 
at  night  with  wings  closed,  only  the  two  spiracles  on  the  back  show  light. 
The  larvae  are  thin,  hard,  and  voracious,  and  in  the  wire-worm  state,  are 
very  destructive  to  sugar-cane.  Full-grown  beetles  have  a sharp,  movable 
horn  on  the  head;  when  laid  on  the  back  they  cannot  turn  over  except 
by  pressing  this  horn  against  a membrane  upon  the  front.  Behind  the 
eyes  are  two  round  transparent  substances  full  of  luminous  matter,  about 
as  large  as  the  head  of  a pin,  and  underneath  is  a larger  membrane  con- 
1 aining  the  same  luminous  substance.  When  roused  and  in  perfect  vigor, 
the  insect  seems  perfectly  saturated  by  the  luminous  secretion.  The  light 
is  much  stronger  and  far  more  beautiful  in  color  than  that  of  the  common 
glow-worm.  The  phosphorescent  substance  remains  luminous  if  removed 
from  the  beetle  immediately  after  death.  Four  of  these  luciferous  insects 
(which  abound  hereabout)  will  throw  a fairly  brilliant  light  for  several 
yards  around,  and  by  the  light  of  a single  insect  one  may  read  distinctly 
the  finely-printed  pages  of  a newspaper. 

They  are  nocturnal  creatures,  flying  only  after  dark,  and  their  bril- 
liancy is  so  remarkable  that  they  are  said  to  have  saved  the  lives  of 
travellers  temporarily  lost  in  the  deep  forests  which  characterize  the 
Southern  portion  of  the  Gulf  region.  To  the  uninitiated  they  resemble 
fiery  dragons  sweeping  through  the  air  with  automobile  lamps  set  upon 
th • i r shoulders.  They  live  upon  gnats  and  other  insects,  and  their  lasting 
brilliance  causes  them  to  be  used  as  miniature  torches  by  the  natives. 
The  Indians  fasten  them  to  their  ankles  when  treading  the  forest  at  night; 
the  women  wear  them  in  their  hair  under  a thin  gauze  veil  and  construct 
little  cages  for  them,  thus  using  them  as  lamps.  These  cages  are  cylindri- 
cal with  a disc  of  thin  wood  at  the  top  and  bottom,  and  slender  uprights 
of  plit  bamboo,  so  placed  as  to  prevent  the  beetles  from  escaping,  yet 
allowing  the  light  to  shine  through.  Three  or  four  are  placed  in  one  cage, 
and  thi  - is  occasionally  immersed  in  water  to  prevent  the  insects  dying. 
An  Indian  forest  maiden  with  her  hair  ablaze  with  these  singular  creatures 
i a somewhat  bizarre  sight  to  the  uitlander.  Boys  rub  the  flesh  of  cucuji 
over  their  faces  to  frighten  their  fellows.  The  insects  congregate  bv  the 
thousands  on  certain  forest  trees,  and  as  if  atagiven  signal  simultaneously 
flash  their  lights:  then  darken  them  and  flash  them  again.  The  effect  is 
singularly  beautiful  and  unique:  the  entire  tree  resembles  a giant  phos- 
phorescent flame.  Then,  as  if  satisfied  with  the  success  of  their  perfor- 
mance, the  beetles  dart  upward  in  all  directions,  like  sparks  from  brilliant 
fire-works. 

Tuxtla  Gutierrez  (1,776  ft.),  capital  of  the  state  of  Chiapas,  with  a 
population  of  22,000,  is  140  kilom.  from  the  station  of  Jalisco  ( Pan - 
A mcriran  Railway,  Rte.  64),  to  which  it  is  linked  by  a highway.  When  the 
stage-line  (rlilinencia,  fare  $20)  is  not  in  service  the  traveller  may  be  able 
to  nrrange  for  horses  ($2.50  a day)  with  the  station  agent.  A mozo , or 
stable-boy,  must  accompany  them,  to  return  them,  and  the  traveller  must 
pav  for  the  additional  horse,  the  keep  of  the  mozo,  and  an  extra  peso  a day 
as  his  salary.  The  trip  from  Jalisco  should  not  consume  above  2h  to  3 
clays.  Food  and  lodgings  always  obtainable  at  wayside  haciendas.  While 


STATE  OF  CAMPECHE  67.  Route.  569 


the  highways  are  said  to  be  safe,  the  prudent  traveller  will  travel  in  the 
company  of  some  one. 

Tuxtla  Gutierrez  is  a somnolent  town,  characteristically  Mexican,  with 
squat  houses  and  cobble-paved  streets.  The  absence  of  rly.  communica- 
tions accounts,  in  a way,  for  the  lack  of  progress.  It  stands  in  the  midst 
of  an  amazingly  rich  district,  on  a fertile  plain  watered  by  the  Rio  Chiapa. 
Beautiful  tropical  trees  and  flowers  adorn  the  Alameda  and  the  numerous 
small  plazas.  The  Paseo  Joaquin  Miguel  Gutierrez  is  the  fashionable 
promenade.  The  Feria  de  Guadalupe , held  in  Dec.  of  each  year,  brings 
many  visitors  and  fills  the  hotels.  The  town  is  in  telegraphic  communica- 
tion with  the  rest  of  the  Repub. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii):  Hotel  Mexico  (sometimes  called  Hotel  Paco , 
from  the  name  of  the  proprietor) , at  the  corner  of  the  Calle  Las  Casas  and 
the  Ave.  Republica.  — Hotel  Central , Calle  de  Gamboa  and  Ave.  Triunfo. — 
Hotel  la  Serpentina , Calle  Las  Casas  and  Ave.  Mexico.  Rates  in  all  from 
$2.50  to  $3.50  Am.  PI.,  including  baths. 

Baths.  The  favorite  bathing  place  is  in  the  Rio  Sabinal. 

Banks.  Banco  Nacional  de  Mexico , and  Banco  de  Chiapas. 

The  Market  Place,  which  on  certain  days  is  thronged  with 
Tzotzils,  Zoques , Zapotecs , and  many  other  Indians,  is  unusually 
interesting.  Many  of  the  Indian  women  are  goitrous  and  not 
a few  are  afflicted  with  leprous  tendencies  — the  spotted  ones 
being  known  as  Pintos  or  painted  ones.  The  brightly  painted 
gourds  and  calabashes  sold  in  the  market  are  a specialty  of 
the  region,  and  resemble  in  design  and  workmanship  those  of 
Uruapan  (p.  229). 

67.  State  of  Campeche. 

Campeche  (known  also  as  Campeachy),  renowned  for  its  production  of 
campeachy  or  log-wood;  with  a pop.  of  86,600  and  an  area  of  46,855  sq. 
kilom.,  skirts  the  warm  Golfo  de  Mejico , which  bounds  it  on  the  W. 
Yucatan  lies  to  the  N.  and  E.;  the  Repub.  of  Guatemala  to  the  S.-E.  and 
S.,  and  the  State  of  Tabasco  to  the  S.  and  S.-W.  Its  soil  is  tropical  and 
wonderfully  fertile.  Throughout  its  greatest  extent  it  is  covered  with 
dense  forests  of  log-wood  and  other  valuable  trees.  The  Southern  region, 
contiguous  to  Guatemala , is  but  little  known.  On  the  S.-W.  coast  is  the 
fine  Laguna  de  Terminos,  discovered  in  1518  by  Anton  de  Alminos,  the 
Spanish  pilot  of  the  Grijalva  expedition,  who  gave  it  its  present  name 
because  he  believed  it  was  the  terminus  of  what  he  thought  was  the 
island  of  Yucatan.  The  name  stuck  to  it  from  the  circumstance  of  its 
having  long  served  as  the  dividing  line  between  the  old  states  of  Yucatan 
and  Tabasco.  It  is  a vast  sweet-water  lake  (70  by  40  kilom.)  formed  by  a 
multitude  of  rivulets.  Along  its  splendidly  wooded  shores  are  the  muni - 
cipalidades  of  Sabancuy,  Mamantel,  and  Palizada.  Many  of  the  rivers 
which  empty  into  this  lagoon  drain  the  contiguous  tropical  forests  and 
swarm  with  alligators  and  fish.  Some  of  the  streams  are  natural  flumes 
down  which  plunges  the  splendid  forest  timber,  cut  in  the  interior  and 
exported  from  Carmen. 

Chief  among  these  is  the  Log-Wood  Tree  ( H cematoxylon  Campeach- 
ianum), which  produces  a heavy,  red  wood  of  firm  texture,  containing  a 
crystalline  yellow  substance  called  hcematoxyline  — used  extensively  for 
dyeing  and  for  coloring  wines.  An  extract  of  the  wood  is  employed  medi- 
cinally as  an  astringent.  The  tree  has  a crooked,  deformed  stem  (as  if 
gripped  by  its  own  juice)  and  grows  to  a height  of  25  ft.  or  more.  The 
native  Indian  name  for  it  is  opiaxtle , but  it  is  known  in  the  world’s  mar- 
kets under  the  Spanish  name  of  polo  de  tinte  (dye-wood).  The  annual 
product  is  about  25,000,000  kilos,  valued  at  (approximately)  one  million 
pesos.  Resinous  and  medicinal  plants  abound  in  Campeche.  Sugar-cane, 
rice,  and  tobacco  of  excellent  quality  are  produced,  along  with  maize, 
henequen,  cotton,  indigo,  and  a multiplicity  of  minor  products.  Beside 


570  Route  67 . 


CAMPECHE  CITY 


log-wood  the  forests  produce  ebony,  cedar,  mahogany,  rose-wood, 
lignum-vitse,  etc.  The  Fauna  and  Flora  are  varied  and  interesting.  There 
arc  50  species  of  mammals,  70  varieties  of  birds,  40  reptiles,  S batrachians, 
40  fishes,  75  insects,  and  many  crustaceans  and  mollusks.  The  Sabancuy 
R er  is  noted  for  its  oysters.  The  Flora  embraces  over  150  species  of  wild 
trees,  50  fruits,  28  textile  plants,  20  classes  of  roots  and  barks  for  tanning 
purposes,  16  oleaginous  seeds,  24 dye-woods,  10  forage  plants,  7 poisonous, 
21  aromatic,  and  a great  number  of  medicinal  plants,  along  with  several 
jjums  and  resins  and  a myriad  flowers  and  ornamental  plants.  The  chief 
industries  are  the  cutting  and  exportation  of  log-wood,  the  manufacture  of 
palm-hats,  hammocks,  and  tortoise-shell  articles.  Honey  is  produced  in 
quantities,  and  the  breeding  of  stock  is  carried  on  extensively. 

Campeche,  capital  of  the  state  and  chief  town  of  the  partido  of  the 
same  name  (pop.  IS, 000,  the  2d  city  in  importance  on  the  Yucatan 
peninsula),  occupies  a strikingly  beautiful  position  on  the  Gulf  of  Mex- 
ico. 1,320  kilom.  from  Mex.  City  and  930  from  Vera  Cruz  — with  which 
it  is  connected  by  coastwise  steamships.  It  is  173  kilom.  from  Merida 
(p.  574)  and  is  linked  thereto  by  a rly.  The  name  of  the  town  is  derived 
from  the  Maya  word  kim  — serpent,  and  pech  — tick  ( garrapata ) be- 
cause of  the  many  insects  of  this  species  which  infest  the  place.  It  was 
founded  (by  Francisco  Montejo ) in  1540,  and  is  therefore  one  of  the  oldest 
towns  in  America.  Hernandez  de  Cordoba  disembarked  here  in  1517, 
before  sighting  Vera  Cruz.  The  port  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient 
Maya  town  of  Kimpech , the  present  name  being  a Spanish  corruption 
of  that  vocable.  In  the  early  years  of  its  existence  it  was  sacked  repeat- 
edly by  buccaneers  of  the  Spanish  Main  (chief  among  them  the  infa- 
mous Lorencillo),  and  the  bastioned  and  fortified  walls  (8  ft.  thick),  seg- 
ments of  which  still  stand,  are  relics  of  the  early  defences. 

Viewed  from  the  sea  the  town  is  very  picturesque,  embowered  in 
many  brilliant-hued  flowers  and  trees.  The  water  of  the  harbor  is  only 
about  10  ft.  deep,  and  big  ships  anchor  out  in  the  bay.  The  stanch  old 
murlle  dates  from  1873.  The  lighthouse  is  of  the  5th  order  and  the  light 
is  visible  10  M.  at  sea.  The  town  is  built  over  a system  of  immense  sub- 
terranean caverns,  excavated  by  the  early  Mayas  and  used  by  them 
as  catacombs.  The  chief  street  is  the  Calle  de  Baranda,  named  for  an 
illustrious  statesman,  in  whose  honor  the  state  is  also  known  as  Campeche 
de  Baranda.  The  manufacture  of  tortoise-shell  combs,  and  so-called 
Panama-hats  is  one  of  the  minor  industries.  The  Cathedral,  in  the  centre 
of  the  port,  is  a time-stained  monument  to  the  religious  enthusiasm  of 
the  conquistadores.  The  moist  sea  air  imparts  a venerable  look  to  the 
port  buildings,  all  of  which  seem  hoary  with  age.  The  Biblioteca  Pub- 
lico contains  6,000  volumes,  chiefly  *in  Spanish.  In  the  Instituto  Cam- 
pcchano  are  two  museums,  one  of  natural  history,  the  other  archaeologi- 
cal. The  climate  of  Campeche  is  not  the  healthiest  on  the  coast.  Visitors 
are  counselled  to  forego  the  drinking  water  (unless  boiled)  and  to  drink 
bottled  water.  The  Harrison  Steamship  Line  and  that  of  the  Compahia 
Mcrirana  de  Xavegacion  connect  the  port  with  the  outer  world.  Banco 
Nacional  de  Mexico. 

Excursions  : Sixty-two  kilom.  E.  of  Campeche , in  the  Partido  of 
Bolonchcn  (sometimes  called  Los  Chenes),  lies  the  town  of  Bolonchenticid, 
renowned  for  its  famous  Cenotes  (water-caves,  p.  582).  The  name, 
Bolonchcn , signifies  9 wells,  and  is  derived  from  a cluster  of  wells  in  the 
town.  The  cave  in  which  these  wells  are  found  is  mammoth  in  its  pro- 
portions and  is  known  locally  as  La  Gruta  de  Xtucumbi-X  unan  — Hidden 
Woman,  because  of  a popular  legend  which  refers  to  a beautiful  Mestiza 
maiden,  an  unfortunate  love  affair,  and  a determination  to  adopt  a 
hermit  existence  in  one  of  the  gloomy  caverns  of  this  underground  world. 
The  water  lies  500  ft.  below  ground  and  is  reached  by  an  inclined  cordu- 
roy stairway  1 ,400  ft.  long,  made  of  tree  trunks  with  a railing  in  the  centre 
to  separate  the  lines  of  water  carriers  going  and  coming.  The  entrance 
is  along  a narrow,  precipitous  trail,  leading  from  the  surface  to  a dark- 
some ledge  overlooking  the  pools.  From  this  high  ledge  the  wells  re- 
semble the  Bottomless  Pit  of  the  Mammoth  Cave  of  Kentucky.  Many 
brilliant  stalactites  pend  from  the  dusky  recesses  of  the  great  arched 
roof;  an  absolute  silence  reigns,  save  for  the  subdued  footfalls  of  the 


THE  PENINSULA  OF  YUCATAN  67.  Route.  571 


quiet  Mestiza  and  Indian  women  who  cautiously  ascend  and  descend 
the  long  stairs,  by  the  light  of  torches  held  high  above  their  heads.  At 
the  foot  of  the  stairway  are  7 pools  of  still  water,  containing  cenote  fish, 
blind  like  those  of  the  Mammoth  Cave.  Lizards,  Iguanas  and  a myriad 
Swallows  make  the  caverns  their  home.  The  first  pool  is  called  (in  the 
Maya  tongue)  Chacka  — red  water;  the  2d  Pucuelha  — reflux,  because 
of  a native  superstition  that  the  water  is  wavy  like  tha£  of  the  sea,  ebb- 
ing when  the  wind  blows  from  the  S.  and  making  when  it  blows  from  the 
N.  The  current  belief  is  that  it  must  be  approached  in  absolute  silence, 
else  the  sensitive  waters  will  disappear  The  3d  pool  is  called  Sallab  — 
water-fall;  the  4th  Akah-Ha — obscurity;  the  5th  Choco-Hd  — hot- 
water,  because  of  its  high  temperature;  the  6th  Oicha , for  its  milky- 
white  color,  and  the  7th  Chimaishd,  from  a certain  insect  — Chimais  — 
which  swims  about  in  it.  These  wells  supply  the  town  with  water  when 
the  local  wells  fail. 


X.  THE  PENINSULA  OF  YUCATAN. 


Arrival  at  Progreso 571 

68.  From  Progreso  to  Merida,  via  San  Ignacio,  Yaxch6, 

Chuburna  and  Itzimna 573 

69.  Merida 574 

History  and  Conquest  of  the  City 574 

History  of  Yucatan 578 

The  Mayas 579 

Ruined  Cities 580 

70.  From  Merida,  via  Muna,  to  Uxmal 580 

71.  From  Merida,  via  Citas,  to  Chichen-Itza  . . . .581 

72.  The  Gulf  State  of  Yucatan 582 

Henequdn,  583.  — Hammocks,  584. 


X.  The  Peninsula  of  Yucatan. 

Arrival  at  Progreso.  Large  ships  usually  anchor  in  the  roadstead,  about 
3 M.  off  shore,  and  passengers  are  taken  to  the  pier  on  a steam  tug.  Ships 
usually  stop  12  hours,  which  enables  through  passengers  to  spend  a pleasant 
day  on  shore  and,  if  they  so  wish,  sometimes  to  run  up  to  Merida  (de- 
pending upon  the  time  the  ship  remains,  and  how  the  trains  run  — con- 
sult the  Purser  on  board  or  the  agent  on  shore).  The  customs  inspection 
is  prompt,  courteous  and  lenient.  The  rly.  station  is  about  3 min.  walk 
from  the  dock.  The  Ward  Line  agent  at  Progreso  will  help  the  stranger  to 
plan  out  his  time  for  the  day. 

Steamship  Agents.  The  office  of  the  New  York  & Cuba  Mail  S.  S.  Co. 

(The  Ward  Line)  is  on  27th  street,  3 blocks  (right)  from  the  fiscal  wharf. — 
That  of  the  Mexican  Navigation  Co.  ( Emilio  Marco  & Co.,  agents)  is  hard 
by. 

Railway  Stations.  Two  Rly.  Lines  run  to  Merida,  the  Broad  Gauge  (via 
ancha),  2 blocks  from  the  fiscal  pier;  and  the  Narrow  Gauge  ( via  angosta), 
1 block  beyond  (the  former).  The  fare  to  (36  Kiloms.)  Merida  is  (apt  to 
change)  about  $2  1st  cl.  Trunk  from  the  pier  to  the  station  (or  hotel)  about 
$2.  — If  the  traveller  finds  that  the  time  of  departure  of  trains  for  Merida 


572  Rte.67.  PROGRESO  — YUCATAN 


on  one  line  does  not  suit  his  convenience,  he  may  wish  to  consult  that  of  the 
other.  Several  trains  leave  Progreso  in  the  a.  m.  and  return  in  the  after- 
noon. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii).  Hotel  Llano , room  only,  from  S3  up.  Meals  a 

la  carta. 

Banks.  Banque  Franqaise;  Banco  Nacional  de  Mexico. 

Progreso  (progress),  the  port  of  entry  for  the  Peninsula  of 
Yucatan,  a picturesque  tropical  town  (pop.  10,000)  noted  for 
the  great  quantity  of  henequen  (p.  583)  which  annually  passes 
through  it,  outward  bound,  is  a regular  port  of  call  for  the 
Ward  Line  ships,  and  is  well  worth  visiting.  The  long,  narrow 
pier  which  extends  far  out  in  the  azure  water  of  the  Gulf  usu- 
ally is  crowded  with  diminutive  flat  cars  ( plataformas ) drawn 
by  whimsical  mules  and  loaded  with  bales  of  the  valuable 
fibre  awaiting  shipment  (much  of  it  to  American  manufactur- 
ing cities  where  cordage  is  made).  The  commercial  importance 
of  the  port  increases  steadily,  and  this  is  reflected  in  the  civic 
improvements  — clean  plazas , streets  handsome  buildings, 
etc.  — usually  under  way.  The  lighthouse  ( farol ) is  of  the  2d 
order,  and  its  brilliant  light  (projected  seaward  from  a tall 
circular  tower  in  the  centre  of  the  port)  is  visible  31  miles  at 
sea. 

The  Main  Street  of  Progreso  is  within  a few  min.  walk  of 
the  landing,  and  just  beyond  it,  at  the  left  (in  the  centre  of  the 
town)  is  the  clean,  flower-crowned,  tile-paved  Plaza  de  Hi- 
dalgo, with  a somewhat  crude  bronze  monument  to  the  patriot 
Miguel  Hidalgo  y Costilla.  At  one  end  of  the  plaza  is  the 
Palacio  Municipal.  Many  handsome  tropical  trees  and 
flowers  adorn  the  square  and  impart  an  air  of  cleanliness  and 
freshness  to  it.  Hundreds  of  coco  palms  idealize  the  port  and 
give  it  a decidedly  tropical  air.  Despite  the  low  latitude,  and 
the  sandy  nature  of  the  Yucatan  soil,  Progreso  is  never  very 
hot.  The  warmest  part  of  the  day  is  the  early  morning  when 
the  breeze  blows  off  the  land.  A cool  sea  breeze  comes  m every 
day  about  noon  and  continues  to  blow  till  about  midnight. 
There  is  excellent  bathing  in  the  surf  on  the  sandy  beach 
(where  sharks  never  venture),  and  the  early  riser  will  see  the 
townspeople  in  the  water  sometimes  at  4 a.  m. 

The  best  way  to  see  the  town  is  to  board  a tranvia  which 
leaves  from  a spot  near  the  landing  and  follows  the  circuito 
(circuit)  until  it  comes  back  to  the  starting  point.  In  his 
saunterings  the  traveller  cannot  fail  to  be  struck  by  two  salient 
characteristics  of  the  natives:  their  personal  cleanliness,  and  a 
suggestion,  more  or  less  recessive,  of  Asiatic  provenience. 
Both  are  yet  more  strikingly  illustrated  in  Merida,  where  the 
population  is  greater,  and  the  types  more  prominent.  The 
clean  faces  of  the  porteiios  are  a pleasing  cream-yellow,  lighter 
than  the  Valley  of  Mexico  Indian,  and,  in  truth,  more  attrac- 
tive. Many  of  the  Progreso  women  attend  to  the  little  shops, 
and  their  spotless  white,  blue  or  red-bordered  robes  suggest 
China  and  Burma. 


PROGRESO— MERIDA  — YUCATAN  68.  Rte.  573 


Fishing  is  the  chief  industry  of  the  port,  and  many  of  the 
native  shops  are  interesting  because  of  the  curious  piscine 
types  displayed.  Everything  is  eaten,  from  the  red  grouper 
or  guachinango  (commonest  of  the  Gulf  fishes),  to  the  tiburon , 
or  shark,  which  latter  infests  the  waters  roundabout  and 
affords  endless  sport  to  the  fishermen  (many  of  whom  are 
Chinese)  and  sailors.  The  latter  begin  to  fish  for  them  almost 
as  soon  as  the  ship  drops  anchor,  and  passengers  usually  have 
the  opportunity  during  the  day  to  see  a flopping  shark,  dragged 
protestingly  over  the  side,  and  finished  by  the  jubilant  sailors 
— who  wage  an  endless  and  holy  war  against  them.  Sometimes 
as  many  as  a dozen  gray  shapes  circle  about  the  ship  and  bite 
at  the  baited  hooks. 

The  small  fishes  (pilot-fish  — Echeneis  naucrates)  which 
resemble  baby  sharks,  or  dog-fish,  that  cling  by  means  of 
suckers  to  the  shark’s  fins,  and  known  locally  as  remora , are 
unwelcome  parasites  which  the  harassed  shark  would  eat 
instantly  if  they  ever  so  far  forgot  themselves  as  to  get  in 
front  of  their  benefactors. 

Many  of  the  fine  fruits  for  which  Yucatan  is  famous  are 
seen  in  the  Progreso  shops.  Mangos,  oranges,  cocoanuts,  and 
bananas  predominate.  The  matrons  who  preside  over  these 
little  stands  carry  their  babies  on  their  hips,  just  as  their 
remote  ancestors  in  East  India  did  and  still  do.  At  home  they 
all  sleep  in  hammocks  (Caribbean  amaca,  or  hamac),  which 
take  the  place  of  beds  throughout  the  Peninsula. 

The  Drinking  Water  in  Progreso  is  rain  water  which  is 
caught  as  it  falls  and  is  stored  in  big  tanks  on  the  premises  of 
each  house.  The  little  fishes  put  in  the  tanks  eat  the  mosquito 
larvae  and  thus  prevent  yellow  fever. 

For  a description  of  Merida,  Route  69,  see  the  following 
page. 

68.  From  Progreso  to  Merida,  via  San  Ignacio, 
Yaxche,  Chuburna  and  Itzimna. 

36  Kiloms.  Railway  (Ferrocarriles  Unidos  de  Yucatan,  Division  Norton 

Broad  gauge.  (Trains  on  the  Narrow  gauge  pass  through  the  towns  of 
Chicxulub , Conkal,  and  Cholul.) 

The  train  runs  at  a good  speed  due  S.  over  a level,  rocky  (limestone) 
country  covered  with  scrub  trees,  henequen  plants,  and,  during  the  rainy 
season,  with  pools  of  stagnant  water  which  provide  breeding  places 
for  many  ubiquitous  and  voracious  mosquitoes.  There  are  neither  bridges 
nor  tunnels  on  the  line.  The  soil  is  thin  and  dry,  with  a sparse  vegetation. 
14  Kilom.  San  Ignacio,  amid  fields  of  greenish-gray  henequen , surrounded 
by  primitive  stone  fences,  and  dotted  with  native  homes  roofed  with  red 
tiles.  On  the  extreme  r.  are  some  picturesque  palms  and  several  wind- 
mills ( molinos  de  viento ),  outposts  of  the  many  thousands  scattered  over 
the  peninsula.  The  groups  of  palms  and  Casurina  trees  indicate  the 
presence  of  a well  or  cenote  (p.  582).  The  gardens  one  sees  about  the 
houses,  as  well  as  most  of  those  in  Merida , are  made  by  blasting  the 
lime-stone  rock  and  filling  in  the  space  with  earth  brought  from  a distance 
at  great  expense.  Beyond  S.  Ignacio  the  henequen  plants,  nearly  all  of  a 
height,  stretch  away  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  Between  this  point  and 


574 


PROGRESO  — MERIDA  — YUCATAN 


the  station  of  Yaxche  there  is  an  alfalfa  garden  (on  the  r.)  watered  from 
numerous  iron  pipes  which  stand  up  all  over  the  field.  20  K.  Yaxche. 
There  is  a notable  absence  of  cattle  in  the  landscape;  a few  goats  are 
seen,  as  well  as  small  mules  which  draw  the  miniature  plantation  cars 
that  bring  in  baled  henequen  from  the  distant  haciendas.  Some  fine 
flamboyant  trees  are  visible  from  the  cars.  30  K.  Chubuma.  33  K. 
Itzimna,  a popular  suburb^ of  Merida.  The  line  curves  to  the  1.  before 
entering  the  capital.  36  K.  Merida,  see  below. 

69.  Merida. 

Arrival.  Railway  Stations.  1.  E station  de  la  Mejorada  (PI.  D,  3), 
N.-E.  of  the  Plaza  Principal , in  the  Calle  57.  Broad-gauge  to  Progreso , 
Division  del  Norte.  — 2.  E station  de  San  Cristobal  (PI.  D,  3),  S.-E.of  the 
plaza,  Calle  69.  Narrow-gauge  to  Progreso.  — 3.  Estacion  Peninsular 
(PI.  B,  3)  or  de  Campeche,  S.-W.  of  the  plaza;  for  Campeche  (p.  569)  and 
the  Yucatan  towns  of  Uman,  Chochola,  Cholul,  San  Bernardo,  Maxcanu , 
Granada,  San  Jose,  Halacho,  Becal,  Calkini,  Citbalche,  Pocboc,  Hecelchakan, 
Pomuch,  Tenabo  and  Esperanza.  The  line  is  called  the  Linea  Troncal 
(trunk-line)  of  the  Division  Oeste.  A daily  train  runs  to  (p.  570)  Cam- 
peche City  (173  kilom.  in  6^  hrs.)  traversing  an  interesting  tropical  coun- 
try. — 4.  Estacion  de  Peto  (PI.  C,  3),  Calle  54,  S.-E.  of  the  plaza;  for  Peto 
and  way  stations.  For  additional  information  consult  the  railway  folder. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xlvii),  with  beds  (in  lieu  of  hammocks)  for  foreigners. 
Gran  Hotel,  Calle  60,  facing  the  Parque  Hidalgo  (PI.  C,  3).  Rooms  only, 
$4  to  $10.  Meals  in  the  restaurant  a la  carta.  There  are  several  other  hotels 
(the  Imperial,  Madrid,  etc.)  hard  by. 

Autos,  Cabs.  Ford  autos  meet  trains;  rates  $2.50  per  hr.,  $1.50  for  £ 
hr.  or  less.  Compare  watches  with  the  chofer  when  you  employ  him  by  the 
hour.  In  case  of  dispute  ask  him  to  drive  to  the  comiseria  — which  he  is 
obliged  to  do.  Cabs  can  sometimes  be  hired  at  a trifle  less  than  autos. 
Larger  autos  for  country  trips  can  be  obtained  with  the  help  of  the  hotel 
manager.  Distances  in  Merida  are  short,  and  the  streets  clean. 

Ruins.  Trips  should  be  planned  with  the  assistance  of  one’s  consul  and 
the  hotel  manager,  as  conditions  alter  from  time  to  time,  and  transportation 
facilities  gradually  improve. 

Theatres  and  Moving  Pictures.  Moving  pictures  are  very  popular;  in 
the  Salon  Montejo,  and  the  Teatro  Independenda  one  can  usually  see  ex- 
cellent pictures  furnished  by  the  celebrated  Circuito  Olimpia,  S.  A.  of 
Mexico  City,  referred  thereunder. 

Steamship  Agents.  The  Ward  Line  Office  is  in  the  Gran  Hotel. 

Banks.  Banco  Nacional  de  Mexico.  — Arturo  Pierce  (both  correspond- 
ents of  the  (American)  Mexico  City  Banking  Corporation,  S.  A.  — 
Banque  Frangaise  du  Mexique. 

Merida  (pop.  50,000,  — 25  ft.  above  sea  level,  in  lat.  20°, 
55',  40",  and  long.  9°,  24',  30"),  capital  of  the  Yucatan  Penin- 
sula, one  of  the  richest,  most  picturesque  and  most  interesting 
of  the  Mexican  cities,  was  founded  in  1542  Don  Francisco 
Montejo  (the  younger)  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Maya  metrop- 
olis of  Tihoo.  It  was  named  after  the  old  Iberian  city  of  Merida , 
the  Emerite  Avgusta,  founded  b.  c.  23  by  the  Legate  Publius 
Carisius , and  long  known  as  the  Rome  of  Spain.  When  the 
Spaniards  came  and  conquered  Yucatan,  Merida's  unique 
replica  in  the  New  World  was  so  filled  with  magnificent  Indian 
temples  and  barbaric  palaces  that  the  dazzled  conquist adores, 
with  pardonable  exaggeration,  likened  it  to,  and  named  it  for, 
the  Old  World  city. 

The  Montejos,  father  and  son,  have  left  an  indelible  im- 


t!*- ***'-*  I 


Tr7 


s? 


MERIDA  — YUCATAN  69.  Route.  575 


print  on  the  old  Maya  stronghold,  which  differs  materially 
from  every  other  city  in  the  Republic.  Montejo  the  elder 
(b.  1484,  d.  1550)  was  one  of  Grijalva’s  captains,  and  was 
agent  in  Spain  for  Her  nan  Cortes  from  1519  to  1522,  and  again 
in  1526.  He  was  a picturesque  figure  in  the  New  World,  be- 
loved by  his  king,  a conqueror  by  nature,  and  blessed  by  a son 
who  inherited  most  of  his  sire’s  spirit  and  temperament.  The 
old  manorial  homestead,  one  of  the  few  remaining  secular 
structures  in  Mexico  with  a purely  plateresque  fagade,  is 
genuinely  interesting  and  is  referred  to  at  p.  578.  It  was  built 
at  a time  when  the  new  Italian  renaissance  forms  were  mak- 
ing an  impression  on  the  mediaeval  style  in  Spain,  and  were 
striving  to  supplant  the  early  Roman  and  Gothic.  Its  re- 
semblance to  silver  work  (hence  the  name  plateresque  — 
plata,  silver)  imparts  a classical  element  which  appealed 
strongly  to  the  Spanish  taste  of  that  remote  period. 

The  clear,  brilliant  sunlight  of  Yucatan,  where  frost  is  un- 
known and  where  brusque  climatic  changes  are  the  exception 
rather  than  the  rule,  has  preserved  the  old  Montejo  mansion 
in  most  of  its  pristine  excellence.  Its  great  age  is  nowhere 
apparent,  and  one  marvels  at  this  when  one  reflects  that  this 
still  livable  and  permanently  occupied  residence  was  built  70 
years  before  the  Pilgrims  landed  at  Plymouth,  and  an  almost 
equal  time  before  the  Dutch  bought  Manhattan  Island  from 
the  Five  Nations.  When  one  recalls  that  it  was  erected  in  an 
Indian  town  which  in  all  likelihood  was  a densely  populated 
place  in  the  opening  years  of  the  Christian  Era,  one  gets  a 
faint  conception  of  the  real  antiquity  of  this  world  so  wrongly 
called  the  New. 

“The  palaces  and  pyramids  of  the  Maya  city  were  so  ancient  (say  the 
old  chroniclers),  that  from  the  mounds  built  by  the  earliest  inhabitants 
there  grew  trees  a thousand  years  old.”  In  Maya  times  each  of  these 
artificial  mounds  or  pyramids  was  crowned  by  a temple,  dedicated  to 
some  Indian  divinity,  and  one  of  them,  the  great  temple  of  H-chun-Caan, 
occupied  the  site  of  the  present  Plaza  de  la  Republica.  Historians  aver 
that  certain  of  the  earlier  temples  bore  a strong  resemblance,  in  their 
architecture,  to  Toltec  buildings.  The  massive  stone  blocks  employed 
in  their  construction  were  later  used  by  the  Spanish  conquistador es  in 
the  erection  of  many  of  the  houses  of  the  modern  city.  The  decisive 
battle  which  won  the  peninsula  for  the  Castilians  was  fought  (in  1540) 
on  the  spot  where  the  Cathedral  now  stands.  According  to  the  church 
historians  200  Spaniards  and  40,000  Indians  were  engaged  in  a terrific 
struggle  which  resulted  in  victory  to  the  Cross  and  Santiago.  In  sober 
truth  this  statement  is  perhaps  a thing  of  romance;  40,000  Indians  did 
perchance  scuttle  to  the  woods  at  the  approach  of  the  armor-clad  Span- 
iards with  their  fire-spitting  weapons,  and  the  400  valientes  that  remained 
to  face  them  were  no  doubt  promptly  annihilated  or  converted  to  Chris- 
tianity. 

The  place  rose  in  importance  soon  after  the  Spanish  occupation  and 
it  was  made  the  see  ( sede ) of  a bishop  in  1561.  The  modern  metropolis 
is  veritably  a city  of  windmills,  every  house,  almost,  possessing  one  or 
more.  The  vista  across  the  housetops  differs  from  any  other  in  Mexico. 
The  place  has  a large  Chinese  population  (perchance  the  prototypes  of 
the  early  Mayas),  and  one  of  the  barrios  is  inhabited  almost  solely  by 


576  Route  69. 


MERIDA 


Plaza. 


<;r,n-ks.  The  prettiest  suburb  is  that  of  Itzimna , reached  by  tranvia 
I ! ' i • plan  of  Merida  resembles  that  of  a wheel,  the  hub  being  represented 
l>\  t ! i . * Plaza  de  la  Repiiblica.  The  calles  are  fairly  broad,  paved  with 
asphalt  or  hard  bricks,  and  cross  each  other  at  right  angles.  Many  of 
thrui  bear  numbers  instead  of  names,  and  albeit  the  system  is  as  clea* 
•is  crystal  to  the  inhabitants,  it  remains  a sort  of  Chinese  puzzle  to  the 
stranger,  whose  despair  is  crowned  by  the  local  directory.  It  is  essen- 

• i ill  \ a city  of  numbers,  and  a glance  at  the  accompanying  plan  confirms 
th-  Chinese  puzzle  idea.  The  minor  numbers  begin  in  the  suburbs  and 
travel  across  town.  The  streets  bearing  odd  numbers  run  E.  and  W.; 
those  running  N.  and  S.  carry  even  numbers.  The  squares  are  all  num- 
bered as  are  the  districts,  and  when  one  seeks  a house  of  a certain  num- 
ber. in  a square  with  another  in  a ward  of  another  and  in  a street  bearing 
-till  another,  a problem  in  mathematics  is  presented  which  requires  a 
pencil,  paper  and  some  calmness  to  solve.  Above  some  of  the  streets, 
di-t  ant  from  the  plaza , are  arches,  near  the  gateways  of  which  are  niches 
that  once  held  figurines  of  santos  E spaholes.  Time  was  when  the  streets 
were  designated  Dy  picturesque  ideographs  — which  have  disappeared. 
The  untutored  Indians  could  not  read  the  Spanish  numbers  or  names,  so 
a painted  sign  or  a representative  figure  was  placed  in  a niche  near  the 
m rert  corner.  Thus,  the  former  Calledel  Flamingo  had  a huge  red  flamingo 
painted  on  one  of  the  corner  houses;  in  the  “street  of  the  Elephant” 
w a#  a large  wood  tusker  with  an  exaggerated  trunk;  a ludicrous  carica- 
t urc  of  a crone  with  immense  goggles  astride  her  nose  represented  the 

<{•■  la  Mujer  Vieja  (street  of  the  old  woman),  wThile  that  of  the 
' 1'wo  Faces  ” ( dos  caras ) was  made  plain  to  the  Indios  by  a human  head 
with  a double  face.  Of  the  score  or  more  public  squares  the  most  at- 
tractive is  the 

Plaza  de  la  Republics  (PI.  C,  3)  — commonly  called  P.  de  la  Con- 
rtd  u inti , P.  Principal,  or  P.  Mayor  — which  is  flanked  by  the  Cathedral 
m i Bi  hop’s  Palace,  the  Government  palacio  and  the  Casa  de  Montejo. 
N mc  parterres  of  tropical  flowers,  some  fine  trees  and  a band-stand 
A t « > ' ;n lorn  it.  In  the  evening  it  is  thronged  with  people,  and  on  Sun- 
il \ i between  10  and  12  a.  m.  and  8 and  11  p.  m.  it  is  the  busiest  spot 
im  tie-  gav  city.  Next  in  point  of  attractiveness  is  the  pretty  Plaza  de 
//  dohjn  hard  by,  with  a bronze  statue  (the  work  of  the  Fundicion  Mexi- 
r oiu  (.f  the  v aliant  General  Cepeda;  who  applied  the  Reform  Lawrs  to 
t h-  peninsula  and  drove  therefrom  (during  the  reign  of  the  Emperor 
M i ■ luulian ) the  French  troops  of  the  Third  Napoleon.  The  plaza  is 
I!  - e l by  the  old  Franciscan  Church  of  the  Tercer  Orden,  also  called 
t v h/l>  in  dr  Jesus.  In  the  next  street  is  the  quaint,  weather-beaten 
( - r.  h of  San  Juan  de  Dios,  with  a characteristic  Catalonian  bell-tower, 
r* 1 1 1 ’ ing  imply  of  a plain  wall,  with  openings  in  which  the  bells  are 
h i mi;  the  Pasco  Montejo,  flanked  by  trees  and  some  modern  houses,  is 
the  favorite  boulevard. 

I h<-  busine-vs  life  of  the  city  centres  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Calle  65. 
1 In  private  life  is  focussed,  according  to  the  Spanish-Moorish  custom, 
ui  tin-  inner  courts  of  the  houses,  of  which  no  city  in  Mexico  can  show 
■ ai  t rai  t iyc  examples.  The  houses  of  Merida  have  seldom  more 
’ } ' i t«"  f'-rie  , and  their  street  fronts  are  usually  simple  and  unpre- 
i • mi  i.  .u-  Some  except  ions  to  this  rule  are  ornamented  with  richly  carved 
' ! "i  i "tic  taken  from  the  ancient  Maya  palaces.  This  blend  of  the 
1"  1 ‘ with  the  Spanish-Moorish  architecture  is  very  pleasing.  The 
h"  ■ * r**  unusually  massive  (as  a protection  from  the  heat)  with  flat 

ri-  ‘ " * which  often  serve  as  flower-gardens  ( jardines ) and  prome- 

Jl  1 • /*»  111  1 Dray  with  the  mold  of  centuries  and  stained  by  the 

h’i Mir  of  the  tropics,  some  of  these  fortress-like  structures  look  very 
m<-- 1 1 • val  and  romantic.  The  windows,  protected  by  iron  bars,  which 
i l foot  or  more  beyond  the  wall,  are  capacious  and  will  permit 

• 1 Du  ini n .duct ion  of  chairs  in  which  the  members  of  the  household  sit 

the  pa  ing  spectacle.  We  first  enter  the  (Moorish)  Zaguan , 
a Mi  di  v.  ail. ulc,  which  is  sometimes  separated  from  the  patio  by  an 
ir  a ’ ' )<i  (railing)  in  the  form  of  double  gates  ( puertas ).  The  court  is  un- 
rovorod  nd  i flanked  on  the  r.  or  1.  (oftentimes  both)  by  an  arcade 
(portal)  with  an  awning  ( toldo ) of  glass  ( vidrio ) or  flowering  vines.  If 


Cathedral. 


MERIDA 


69.  Route.  577 


the  house  is  two  stories  (de  dos  pisos ) a wide  staircase  ascends  from  the 
arcade  to  the  living  rooms.  A one-story  house  is  an  entresolada.  The  rooms 
opening  off  the  patio  have  no  windows,  as  a rule,  but  they  obtain  all  the 
light  and  air  required  through  the  doors  communicating  with  the  court. 
The  patio  is  sometimes  paved  with  marble,  and  there  is  generally  a foun- 
tain (. fuente ) playing  in  the  centre.  A movable  awning  protects  it  from 
the  rays  of  the  sun  (el  sol).  The  patio  sometimes  forms  the  reception  and 
living  room  during  the  day.  The  well-to-do  furnish  it  with  rush  mats, 
Chinese  vases  and  pianos,  and  adorn  it  with  hammocks,  flowers,  palms, 
climbing  plants,  parrots  and  song-birds.  Stately  peacocks  (Pavos  reales) 
stalk  gravely  about  some  of  the  patios.  The  popular  prejudice  runs  to 
large  rooms  with  lofty  ceilings  and  cool,  tiled  floors.  Massive  wood  beams 
form  the  ceiling,  which  is  sometimes  covered  with  a coarse  cotton  cloth, 
well  sized  and  painted  with  landscape  and  other  views.  Hammocks 
(p.  584),  which  swing  from  large  wooden  knobs  in  the  wall,  are  used  in 
lieu  of  beds.  They  are  sometimes  almost  as  fine  as  lace,  strong,  and  very 
long  and  wide.  The  Y ucatecos  are  born  and  die  in  hammocks;  in  the 
manufacture  of  which  they  excel.  Merida  is  a wealthy  city,  and  many 
of  the  homes  are  luxurious.  _ The  annual  Carnival,  usually  celebrated  in 
March,  is  a time  of  great  rejoicing. 

The  Climate  of  Merida  is  hot  but  healthy.  The  intense  heat  of  midday 
is  often  tempered  by  a sea  breeze,  which  sometimes  blows  for  days.  The 
months  (Mch.  and  April)  which  precede  the  rainy  season,  are  apt  to  be 
very  trying  to  the  unacclimated.  At  this  season  the  corn-fields  of  the 
country  are  fired,  and  this  heat  is  added  to  that  of  the  sun,  which  here  is 
very  fervent.  Winter  is  the  best  time  for  a visit.  The  temperature 
throughout  the  year  ranges  from  75°  to  98°  Fahr.  The  drinking  water  is 
obtained  from  the  cenotes , or  underground  river  basins  (certain  of  which 
are  used  as  bathing  places),  and  from  rain-water  cisterns.  While  the  water 
supply  is  not  supposed  to  come  in  contact  with  the  sewage,  the  prudent 
traveller  will  drink  boiled  or  bottled  waters. 

The  Cathedral  (facing  the  Plaza,  PI.  C,  3),  begun  in  1561  and  completed 
in  1598  at  a cost  of  $300,000,  is  dedicated  to  San  Ildefonso,  and  beside  be- 
ing the  handsomest,  largest,  and  richest  ch.  in  the  peninsula,  it  is  the  most 
attractive  building  in  Merida.  The  facade  is  unusually  plain  for  an  old 
Mexican  ch.,  with  two  towers  three  stories  high;  the  right  tower  contains 
a very  old  clock.  An  inscription  above  the  entrance  bears  the  date  1757 
and  doubtless  refers  to  the  completion  of  the  towers  and  the  dedication  of 
the  ch.  In  the  centre  of  the  facade  is  the  Mexican  coat-of-arms,  above  a 
crown  and  the  remains  of  what  once  represented  the  royal  insignia  of 
Spain.  There  are  five  entrances  to  the  Cathedral  (which  is  179  ft.  wide 
by  300  ft.  long).  Surmounting  it  is  a fine  cimborio,  through  the  windows 
of  which  pours  a flood  of  light. 

The  Interior  lacks  the  restless  quality  and  the  ornate  glitter  character- 
istic of  certain  Mex.  churches,  and  its  immense  nave,  flanked  on  either 
side  by  six  massive  piers,  give  it  an  air  of  grandeur  and  solidity.  The 
tabernacle  is  modern  and  inharmonious.  The  base  of  the  baldachino  is 
of  hammered  silver.  The  finest  thing  in  the  ch.  is  the  old  Churrigueresque 
(p.  cxxxii)  reredo , which  fills  the  entire  space  behind  the  high  altar  — com- 
pleted in  1762.  To  the  right  of  this  is  a smaller  reredo,  richly  carved  and 
gilded,  which  looks  down  upon  many  mortuary  tablets  let  into  the  floor. 
At  the  1.  is  an  altar  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe.  Next  to  this, 
separated  from  the  ambulatory  by  a tall  iron  reja,  is  the  imposing  Capilla 
del  Cristo  de  las  Ampollas,  the  patron  saint  of  the  ch.  The  magnificent 
crown,  valued  at  $30,000,  was  stolen  from  this  chapel  in  1906,  but  was 
recovered,  and  is  now  hidden.  The  Altar  de  San  Ildefonso,  that  of  La 
Purisima  Concepcion,  La  Virgen  de  La  Luz,  and  the  Chapels  of  Sehor  San 
Jose  and  of  the  Sagrario  were  recently  renovated.  On  the  Altar  del  Santo 
Cristo  de  la  Conquista  (Holy  Christ  of  the  Conquest)  is  a life-size  crucified 
figure  of  the  blessed  Saviour  which  is  said  to  have  been  brought  over  by 
the  Conquistador es  and  to  have  served  them  during  the  first  years  of  the 
Conquest.  A bronze,  life-size  figure  of  Christ  faces  the  quaint  pulpit, 
reached  by  a short  flight  of  steps.  Fourteen  polychrome  pictures  repre- 
senting the  stations  of  the  cross  adorn  the  piers  and  pilasters  of  the  aisles. 
The  marble  floor  imparts  a sense  of  coolness  to  the  edifice.  The  great 


Route  69. 


MERIDA 


History. 


w v >n  doors,  swung  on  pivots  let  into  soffits,  and  studded  with  big  bronze 
b :ire  interesting  Moresque  relics  of  colonial  days.  Visitors  should 

a.'  : i the  tower  for  the  sake  of  the  new  across  the  city.  The  Bishop’s 

1’  i lore  El  Obi  spado)  adjoins  the  Cathedral.  The  smaller  churches  of  the 
ci t \ are  noteworthy  for  the  simplicity  of  their  adornments. 

La  Casa  del  Conquistador  Montejo,  now  a private  dwelling  on  the 

> -i  e of  the  Pin:  a Mayor  (PI.  C,  3),  is  the  oldest  (erected  by  Montejo  the 
y<  >i inner  in  1549,  and  the  first  Spanish  house  built  in  the  old  Maya  city) 
h .use  in  the  metropolis  and  the  most  picturesque.  The  facade  bears  the 
es  utcheon  of  the  Montejo  family  ; on  either  side  of  the  entrance  are 
crudely  carved  figures,  in  stone,  of  two  Spanish  knights,  clad  in  the  cos- 
t ante  in  vogue  at  the  time  of  the  Conquest.  The  foot  of  each  rests  on  the 
head  of  a conquered  Maya  Indian. 

El  Patacio  de  Gobierno  ( PI.  C,  3)  or  Palacio  del  Ejecutivo  (on  the  N.  side 
of  the  Plaza  dc  la  Republica),  begun  in  1883  and  completed  in  1892  at  a 
cost  of  $187,000,  is  a handsome  modern  structure  in  the  Renaissance 
style,  and  it  houses  the  local  government  offices.  The  copper  tablet  let 
into  the  corner  of  the  portales  refers  to  the  memorable  visit  of  President 
P.  • firfo  Diaz  to  the  Peninsula  in  Feb.,  1906. 

The  Mttseo  Yucateco,  Calles  60  and  65  (PL  C,  3),  contains  an  interest- 
ing collection  of  monoliths,  statues,  caryatides,  and  other  curious  and 
well-preserved  Maya  relics  well  worth  seeing.  Open  all  day  free. 

History.  “ The  first  message  ever  given  to  the  civilized  world  by  Yuca- 
tan  fell  beneath  the  eye  of  Columbus,  on  his  fourth  and  last  voyage 
in  1502.  Driven  by  currents  out  of  his  southerly  course  from  Santo 
Domingo,  he  sighted  a group  of  islands  off  Honduras  and  captured  a 
canoe,  formed  of  the  trunk  of  a single  tree,  eight  ft.  wide  and  as  long  as  a 
g lev.  In  the  middle  was  an  awning  of  palm-leaves,  not  unlike  those  of 
the  Venetian  gondolas,  under  which  were  the  women,  children,  and  all  the 

g Is.  The  canoe  was  under  the  direction  of  25  Indians.  They  had  cotton 

coverlets  and  tunics  without  sleeves,  curiously  worked  and  dyed  of  vari- 
ous colors  the  same  as  are  worn  in  Yucatan  to-day),  covering  for  the 
loins  of  similar  material,  large  mantles,  in  which  the  Indian  women 
wrapped  themselves,  like  the  Moorish  women  of  Granada;  long  swords 
wit  h channels  on  each  side  the  blade,  edged  with  sharp  flints  that  cut  the 
body  as  well  as  steel;  hatchets  of  copper  for  cutting  wood,  bells  of  the 
same  material,  and  crucibles  in  which  to  melt  it.  For  provisions  they  had 
such  roots  and  grains  as  the  natives  of  Hispaniola  (Haiti)  eat,  a sort  of 

im*  madeof  maize,  and  great  quantities  of  almonds  of  the  kind  used  by 
the  pe«  pie  of  New  Spain  for  money.  The  Spaniards  were  struck  with  the 
personal  modesty  of  these  Indians,  in  which  they  greatly  excelled  the 
native-  of  the  islands.  Columbus  sailed  southward;  how  much  better 
w . : it  hi  ve  been  for  him  had  he  sailed  west!  Within  a day  or  two  he 
would  have  arrived  at  Yucatan;  the  discovery  of  Mexico  and  the  other 
opulent  countries  of  New  Spain  would  have  necessarily  followed;  the 

> era  < Mean  would  have  been  disclosed  to  him,  and  a succession  of 

I'-ndi  i ii-coveries  would  have  shed  fresh  glory  on  his  declining  age, 

u of  its  -inking  amidst  gloom,  neglect,  and  disappointment.” 

In  1 5 Juan  de  Solis  entered  the  Gulf  of  Honduras  and  saw  the  east 
r.  -•  of  Yucat  an,  hut  did  not  land.  In  151S  Hernandez  de  Cordoba  sailed 
with  J i in  <l>  Grijalva  and  coasted  the  entire  northern  and  western  shores 
o:  the  peninsula.  On  this  voyage  they  touched  at  Campeche  and  dis- 
cover. j tv-u  Cruz.  The  latter  proved  so  rich  that  “all  the  captains  and 

0 Mm  r-  went  thither,”  and  Yucatan  remained  comparatively  unnoticed 

f<  r • , de  after  its  discovery.  In  1526  the  gallant  Conquistador , Don 
h de  M ,>ntejo,  obtained  a grant  from  the  King  of  Spain  for  the 

« ■ i j ;.  -t  and  colonization  of  Yucatan,  and  he  sailed  from  Seville,  with 
f o ' ;‘H  v* '-—cl—,  toward  the  end  of  1527.  The  squadron  reached  the 

1 tid  of  < - ■ ’ ini.  then  the  coast  in  the  following  year,  and  Montejo  took 

p - ion  of  the  territory  in  the  name  of  the  Spanish  king.  The  Mayas 

. .u  i \ lumfl  Cuz  and  Etd  Cch  (land  of  turkeys  and  deer).  When 


M miard-  landed  the  natives  were  struck  by  their  strange  language, 
• t hey  c\<  laimed,  Ouyouckatan 1 — hear  them  speak!  To  the  Castilians 


bene 


peak! 

Dorians  believe  the  name  Yucatan  is  derived  from  the  Yuca, 
tan,  or  land  of  the  yuca. 


Mestizas. 


THE  MAYAS 


69.  Route.  579 


this  word  sounded  so  much  like  Yucatan  that  they  called  the  country  bv 
that  name.  The  Yncatecos  were  terrified  at  the  appearance  of  the  400 
mailed  strangers,  armed  with  fire  and  mounted  on  ferocious  animals 
(horses)  and  they  fled  at  their  approach.  Later,  they  regained  courage, 
and  from  that  date  to  the  great  battle  (1540)  of  Tihoo  ( Merida ) the 
Spaniards  were  fighting  almost  constantly.  When  they  finally  triumphed 
they  found  that  this  country,  which  had  been  so  bravely  defended  by  the 
natives,  contained  not  a single  mine  of  gold  or  silver;  nothing  to  reward 
them  for  their  conquest.  Had  not  gold  been  the  shibboleth  of  the  valiant 
Montejo,  he  might  have  solaced  himself  with  the  fact  that  in  subduing 
Yucatan,  he  opened  to  the  world  a land  thought  by  many  to  have  been 
the  cradle  of  the  human  race.  Within  its  borders  are  the  ruins  of  three 
score  ancient  cities  whose  origin  is  shrouded  in  the  deepest  mystery.  Says 
Stephens:  “They  do  not  resemble  the  works  of  Greek  or  Roman;  there  is 
nothing  in  Europe  like  them.  They  are  different  from  the  works  of  any 
other  known  people,  of  a new  order,  and  entirely  and  absolutely  anoma- 
lous: they  stand  alone.”  The  Spaniards  found  the  land  inhabited  by  a 
diversity  of  tribes,  but  all  speaking  one  tongue,  the  Maya.  Says  one 
authority:  “The  most  ancient  traditions  seem  to  point  to  two  distinct 
immigrations  into  the  peninsula;  but  it  is  usually  conceded  that  there 
existed,  in  that  portion  of  Central  America  where  Yucatan,  Guatemala, 
and  Southern  Mexico  come  together,  a great  and  potent  theocratic 
empire.  Mayapan , about  30  M.  S.  of  Merida , was  the  seat  of  the  ancient 
Maya  empire,  and  the  city  was  called  (by  early  Spanish  writers  on  Yuca- 
tan) El  Pendon  de  los  Mayas  — the  banner  city  of  the  Mayas.” 

The  Mayas.  At  the  period  of  the  Conquest  the  Maya  tribes,  sup- 
posedly the  first  inhabitants,  occupied  the  Peninsula  of  Yucatan  and  a 
considerable  portion  of  the  neighboring  territory  to  the  S.  and  W.;  they 
are  said  to  have  numbered  about  two  million  souls.  That  they  possessed 
marked  characteristics  and  were  an  intelligent  people,  their  temples  and 
their  history  prove.  Their  origin  is  largely  a matter  of  conjecture.  One 
account  (D.  G.  Brinton,  American  Hero  Myths , p.  145)  connects  them 
with  the  history  of  the  god  and  culture  hero  Itzamna , and  derives  an 
important  element  or  division  of  the  race  from  the  east,  where  they  are 
said  to  have  come  across  — or  rather  through  — the  ocean,  thus  forcibly 
recalling  the  story  of  Atlantis.  “The  more  probable  derivation  is,  how- 
ever, from  the  west,  as  tradition,  myth,  art,  and  geographical  conditions 
point  in  this  direction  more  decidedly  than  in  any  other.  It  appears  that 
there  are  few  ties  of  language  with  the  Aztecs  or  other  Mexican  peoples, 
though  there  are  numerous  and  striking  analogies  in  art  and  customs, 
and  it  is  not  improbable  that  in  the  course  of  their  history  the  Mayas 
have  come  into  close  contact  with  the  great  tribes  of  the  Plateau  of 
Mexico.  Indeed,  all  may  have  had  a common  origin  to  the  north  in 
Mexico,  or  even  beyond  the  Rio  Grande.  In  the  culture  scale  these  people 
stood  at  the  head  of  the  American  tribes.  They  were  still,  properly 
speaking,  barbarians,  but  in  several  respects  seemed  to  be  on  the  very 
threshold  of  civilization.  Their  status  may  be  compared  to  that  of  the 
Greeks  and  Egyptians  immediately  preceding  the  dawn  of  history,  and 
we  may  assume  that  they  were,  as  measured  by  Aryan  rates  of  progress, 
perhaps  not  more  than  a few  thousand  years  behind  the  foremost  nations 
of  the  world  in  the  great  procession  of  races  from  savagery  toward  en- 
lightenment. It  is  certain  that  they  were  already  enjoying  a rude  system 
of  historic  records,  and  were  the  only  nation  on  the  Western  continent 
that  had  made  any  considerable  headway  in  the  development  of  a pho- 
netic system  of  writing.  Their  hieroglyphics  occupy  a place,  not  yet  well 
defined,  somewhere  along  the  course  of  progress  from  pictograph  to  let- 
ter, and  are  consequently  difficult  of  interpretation.  There  is  no  doubt, 
however,  that  an  age  of  literature  was  actually,  though  slowly,  dawning 
in  America  when  the  shock  of  Conquest  came.”  ( William  Holmes.)  Comp. 
Literature,  p.  cliv. 

The  Mestizas  (masculine  Mestizos ),  half-castes,  form  a large  and  pic- 
turesque portion  of  the  population  of  the  Peninsula.  They  are  noted  for 
cleanliness  and  personal -modesty.  The  union  of  the  Spanish  and  Indian 
races  produced  this  mixed  people,  who  rank  among  the  handsomest  in 
Mexico.  They  are  a gentle,  docile,  satisfied  and  pleasure-loving  race, 


5S0  Route  70.  MERIDA  TO  UXMAL 


which  retains  many  of  the  customs  and  dances,  and  particularly  the 
style  of  dress,  of  bygone  days.  Many  of  the  women  are  beautiful  bru- 
nette* with  rich  complexions,  fine  black  eyes  and  hair,  superb  teeth,  and 
sweet,  pensive  expressions. 

Ruined  Cities  abound  in  Yucatan,  and  most  of  them  remain  unmo- 
lested and  unvisited  in  the  silence  and  obscurity  of  the  wilderness.  The 
natives  avoid  them  with  superstitious  fear,  and  few  travellers  care  to 
brave  the  discomforts  attending  a visit  to  them.  The  Yucalecos  are 
apparently  indifferent  to  the  touristic  value  of  this  interesting  and  his- 
toriral  residua  of  a vanished  race,  and  practically  no  efforts  are  made  to 
attract  travellers  hither.  Only  a small  part  of  the  ruins  have  been  extri- 
cated from  the  dense  underbrush  which  has  covered  them  for  centuries, 
and  it  is  thought  that  an  almost  unbroken  line  of  deserted  cities  stretches 
between  Yucatan  and  the  primeval  forests  beyond  the  frontier  of  Guate- 
mala. The  most  important  of  the  ruins  known  are  those  of  Uxmal  (see 
below);  next  in  historical  interest  is  Chichen-Itza,  referred  to  at  p.  581. 
'!  he  knowledge  of  the  laws  of  architecture  possessed  by  some  of  the 
builders  of  the  early  Yucatan  cities  was  considerable,  and  the  structures 
themselves  are  amazing  relics  of  what  was  indubitably  a highly  devel- 
op1 d civilization.  That  this  degree  of  progress  should  exist  here,  perhaps 
centuries  before  Columbus  discovered  America,  is  all  the  more  singular 
and  significant. 

The  student  may  consult  Bernal  Diaz,  Historia  V erdadera  de  la  Con- 
quista ; Cogolludo,  Historia  de  Yucatan  (the  best  historian  of  the 
Peninsula);  Yucatan , by  Jose  I.  Novelo  (Merida);  Historia  del  Descubri- 
viicnto  y Conquista  de  Yucatan , by  Licenciate  Juan  Francisco  Molina 
Solis  (Merida,  1896);  Historia  de  Yucatan  Bajo  la  Domination  Espafiola, 
by  the  same  author  (Merida,  1904);  the  various  archaeological  books 
written  about  the  Peninsula  by  Dr.  Le  Plongeon  are  interesting;  Inci- 
dents of  Travel  in  Yucatan,  by  John  L.  Stephens  (N.  Y.  1843);  Inci- 
dents of  Travel  in  Central  America,  Chiapas,  and  Yucatan,  by  the  same 
author  (X.  Y.  1867).  The  two  latter  are  the  best  books  extant  on  the 
ruined  cities  of  Yucatan  and  Chiapas. 


70.  From  Merida,  via  Muna,  to  Uxmal. 

59  Kilom.  to  Muna  by  Rly.  (F.  C.  Unidos  de  Yucatan)  in  2\  hrs.,  1 
train  daily,  fare,  see  p.  xxxi.  The  train  usually  leaves  Merida  (from  the 
Esttirinn  Peninsular)  at  3.30  p.  m.  and  reaches  Muna  at  5.10  p.  m.  Here 
a night’s  lodging  must  be  obtained  by  favor,  as  there  is  no  hotel.  The 
distance  from  Muna  to  the  ruins  is  about  12  kilom.  No  fixed  prices  for 
conveyances.  Horses  can  sometimes  be  obtained  by  the  day  at  S5  each. 
A guide  (indispensable)  and  his  horse  wfill  cost  as  much  more.  A volan 
or  ralesn  (a  two-wheeled  vehicle  something  like  a Cuban  volante)  holding 
•1  persons  can  usually  be  obtained,  if  spoken  for  well  in  advance,  at  a 
c.»st  of  about  S10  for  the  round  trip.  This  does  not  include  food  (which 
must  be  carried  along)  or  guide.  Each  volan  is  supplied  with  a driver. 
A good  horse  and  volan  will  land  one  at  the  ruins  in  2 hrs.  The  return 
journey  can  be  made  the  same  day.  Rest  in  Muna  overnight  and  return 
to  Merida  the  next  morning.  X in  the  Maya  tongue  is  pronounced  ush, 
consequently  Uxmal  is  ushmal.  The  word  was  formerly  written  Oxmal, 
and  means  “three  times  destroyed.” 

The  journey  from  Muna  is  across  a semi- wild  country  of 
forest  and  plain.  The  region  is  infested  with  ticks,  and  the 
traveller  is  cautioned  to  be  on  his  guard  against  these  little 
demons.  The  Ruins  stand  in  the  midst  of  a plain  flanked  by 
a range  of  hills  trending  from  N.-E.  to  the  S.-W. 

“ The  dense  wild  wood  that  hid  the  rpval  seat, 

The  lofty  palms  that  choked  the  winding  street, 

Man’s  hand  hath  felled,  and  now,  in  day’s  fair  light, 

Uxmal’s  broad  ruins  burst  upon  the  sight.” 


MERIDA  TO  CHICHEN-ITZA  71.  Rte.  581 


Ages  of  neglect  have  failed  to  efface  the  traces  of  taste  and  enlight- 
enment shown  in  the  construction  of  these  deserted  palaces.  Time  brings 
so  few  changes  in  the  unpeopled  forests  of  Yucatan,  and  the  climate  is 
so  benign,  that  the  ruins  have  perhaps  altered  but  little  in  the  last  cen- 
tury. The  traveller  will  be  interested  chiefly  in  visiting  the  structures 
known  as  the  House  of  the  Dwarf  ( Casa  del  Enano ),  H.  of  the  Nuns 
( Casa  de  las  Monjas),  Turtles  ( Casa  de  las  Tortugas),  Pigeons  ( Casa  de 
las  Palomas ),  and  of  the  Governor  ( Casa  del  Gobernador).  The  strange 
and  incomprehensible  designs  carved  on  these  edifices  are  extraordina- 
rily rich  and  complex,  and  they  alternate  with  attractive  ornaments  of 
elephants,  leopards,  leaves,  flowers  and  a peculiar  and  striking  assort- 
ment of  grecques.  There  is  no  rudeness  or  barbarity  in  the  design  or 
proportions  of  these  strange  and  silent  palacios,  and  the  traveller  is 
bewildered  at  the  relics  of  a civilization  which  flourished  here  perhaps 
seons  of  ages  before  Columbus  dreamed  of  a new  world.  The  best  de- 
tailed description  of  these  ruins  will  be  found  in  John  L.  Stephens’  In- 
cidents of  Travel  in  Y ucatan. 

71.  From  Merida,  via  Citas,  to  Chichen-Itza. 

143  Kilom.,  to  Citas  (which  on  the  rly.  time-card  is  spelled  with  the 
C inverted)  by  railway  ( F errocarriles  Unidos  de  Y ucatan,  Division  Este ) 
in  4 hrs.  Fare  see  p.  xxxi.  Trains  leave  from  the  Estacidn  Peninsular. 
The  trip  is  even  more  difficult  than  that  to  Uxrnal  (p.  580),  and  it  should 
not  be  undertaken  without  careful  consideration  and  preparation.  The 
train  usually  leaves  Merida  in  the  early  a.  m.  (6.30)  and  reaches  Citas 
about  10  a.  m.  There  a volan,  mules  or  horses  must  be  obtained  (not 
always  easy).  The  approximate  cost  of  a volan  for  3 days  is  $20:  for  a 
horse  or  a mule,  for  the  same  time,  $10.  Guide  (necessary)  extra,  ac- 
cording to  the  agreement  the  traveller  is  able  to  make  with  him.  Food 
must  be  taken  along.  The  distance  from  Citas  to  Chicken  is  about  30 
kilom.,  and  by  starting  immediately  after  the  train  reaches  Citas  the 
traveller  can,  by  hard  riding,  arrive  at  the  ruins  the  same  evening.  The 
roads  are  execrable.  At  Chicken  the  U.  S.  Consul  (at  Progreso ) has  pro- 
vided a so-called  Guest-house,  unfurnished,  in  which  travellers  are  at 
liberty  (no  charge)  to  swing  their  hammocks.  The  latter  are  a necessity 
in  Yucatan,  where  a myriad  troublesome  insects  thrive  in  the  tropical 
climate.  The  2d  day  is  generally  spent  at  the  ruins,  and  the  start  home 
is  made  from  Chicken  early  in  the  morning  of  the  3d  day,  to  overtake 
the  train  leaving  Citas  for  Merida  at  1.53  p.  m.  Food  is  hard  to  obtain 
all  along  the  journey,  and  this,  with  a camping-outfit  and  hammocks, 
should  be  taken  from  Merida. 

Local  conditions  improve  steadily  and  ere  long  these  ruins,  among  the 
most  interesting  on  the  continent,  can  be  visited  without  the  privation  and 
discomfort  which  hitherto  has  attended  a trip  to  them.  Consult  the  hotel 
manager  before  planning  a trip. 

The  Ruins  of  Chichen-Itza  (a  Maya  word  meaning  “by  the  well  of 
the  Itzaes ”),  the  ancient  capital  of  the  ltzaes  (after  they  had  been  driven 
from  Itzamal,  and  before  they  sought  seclusion  in  the  forests  of  Guate- 
mala), are  located  near  a sacred  cenote  (comp.  p.  582)  from  which  the 
ruins  derive  their  name.  Next  to  Uxmal  (p.  580)  they  are  the  largest 
and  most  important  group  of  ruins  in  Yucatan.  They  stand  in  a wooded 
country,  in  a glade  which  occupies  an  area  of  about  two  miles.  The  most 
conspicuous  building  is  the  Carcel  (prison).  The  so-called  House  of 
the  Nuns  ( Casa  de  las  Monjas),  so  named  for  the  many  small  rooms 
which  resemble  convent-cells,  is  a magnificent  pile,  almost  covered  with 
intricate  tracery,  bas-reliefs,  and  hieroglyphics.  El  Gimnasio  (the  gym- 
nasium) io  adorned  with  a sculptured  border  of  serpents  and  a series  of 
great  stone  rings,  several  ft.  in  diameter,  set  in  the  walls.  The  hiero- 
glyphic carvings  are  wonderful  and  beautiful,  and  the  mural  paintings, 
representing  warriors  in  battle  and  events  in  the  lives  of  the  various 
iulers  of  Chicken,  are  artistic  in  execution,  and  the  finest  that  adorn  the 
walls  of  any  building  in  the  country.  A procession  of  lynxes  and  tigers 
ornament  the  cornice  of  one  edifice,  while  sculptured  slabs  and  pillars 
are  scattered  profusely  over  the  ground.  The  paintings  on  the  walls 


Rte.  72. 


GULF  STATE  OF  YUCATAN 


582 


of  the  Cfi uhen-Itza  ruins  are  conceded  to  be  the  most  unique  and  beau- 
ti:  ;j  i . found  on  any  ruins  in  Ameriea.  Various  attempts  have  been 
i!  ..  to  reconstruct  the  history  of  the  highly  civilized  race  which  built 
tin  palaces,  from  the  scattered  fragments  left  by  tradition  and  from 
th  mural  paintings  and  hieroglyphics,  but  as  yet  with  little  success. 

The  predominant  character  of  these  and  similar  Maya  structures  is 
that  all  are  built  upon  an  artificial  elevation:  a pyramid  or  truncate 
supporting  a building  more  or  less  vast  and  grand.  The  walls  are 
g.  nerally  of  great  thickness,  many  are  faced  on  the  interior  with  carved 
s?  .in*,  and  many  also  present  a rich  profusion  of  adornments,  sculptured 
in  i relief  upon  their  faces.  Busts  and  human  heads,  figures  of  animals, 
and  hieroglyphs  which  no  one  has  yet  been  able  to  decipher,  constitute 
in  general  these  adornments.  The  finest  workmanship  is  displayed  in 
broad  and  elevated  cornices;  and  the  spectator  does  not  know  which 
tn  admire  the  more  in  the  artist:  the  prodigious  number  of  small  pieces 
with  which  he  composed  the  work,  or  the  beauty  and  accuracy  to  nature 
of  the  scenes  represented.  The  doors  are  generally  low,  and  the  lintels  of 
wood,  some  richly  sculptured.  The  ceiling  is  formed  by  the  peculiar 
American  arch  (without  a keystone),  and,  owing  to  their  construction, 
not  much  breadth  can  be  secured,  but  great  length. 

The  splendid  statue  of  Chac-Mool , The  Tiger  King  (now  in  the  Museum 
at  Mexico  City  and  described  at  p.  305),  was  unearthed  here,  in  the  midst 
of  a dense  wood,  eight  meters  below  the  surface.  For  a detailed  descrip- 
tion of  the  Chichen-Ilza  ruins  consult  Stephens’  Incidents  of  Travel  in 
Yucatan,  or  the  works  of  Dr.  and  Madame  Le  Plongeon.  See  Biblio- 
graphy, p.  ccxxxix. 


72.  The  Gulf  State  of  Yucatan. 

The  Gull  State  of  Yucatan,  in  the  Peninsula  of  the  same  name  (which 
includes  the  TerrUorio  of  Quintana  Roo ) with  a total  area  of  91,201  sq. 
kilom.  an  1 a population  of  315,000,  is  the  greatest  Tieneguen-producing 
n-gion  of  the  world,  and  one  of  the  most  interesting  of  the  Mexican 

1. i ns.  It  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  on  the  E. 

th*-  Caribbean  Sea,  on  the  S.  by  British  Honduras  and  the  Republic 
of  < iuatemala,  and  on  the  W.  by  Campeche,  which  once  formed  a part 
of  it  The  Peninsula  is  an  immense  plain  which,  starting  from  the  coast- 
line, rises  toward  the  interior  to  a height  of  about  200  ft.  In  the  N.-W. 
th*  soil  is  of  a dry,  calcareous  and  rocky  formation;  it  was  proverbially 
-ril<-  »int il  the  exploitation  of  henequen  transformed  it  into  one  of  the 
rich*  t regions  (financially)  of  the  Repub.  The  fertility  of  the  land  in- 
cn  - toward  the  N.-E.,  and  the  S.  region  abounds  in  virgin  forests 
of  valuable  dye-  .and  cabinet-woods,  and  in  stretches  of  land  suitable  for 
th  ( dt ure  of  all  the  vegetable  species.  This  region  is  the  home  of  the 
magnificent  Yucatan  turkey  (Mdeagris  Ocellata , Mex.  Guajolote — in- 
tr  > luee  i hence  into  the  N.  and  to  Europe)  conceded  to  be  the  most 
bv  uitiful  of  the  turkey  familv.  The  metallic  sheen  and  the  lustre  of  the 
plumage  of  thi»  huge  bird  is  thoroughly  splendid.  The  venerated  Quetzal , 
the  Mexican  bird  of  paradise,  noted  for  its  exquisite  plumage,  is  also 
f und  here  The  Quintana  Roo  region  wTas  long  the  stronghold  of  re- 
bellious Indians  w ho  for  many  years  maintained  a desultory  war  with 
the  Government. 

\ peculiarit  y of  Yucatan  is  the  absence  of  surface  rivers:  under-ground 
•ream-  exist,  and  drinking  water  is  obtained  from  wells  sunk  to  connect 
with  them.  The  entire  Peninsula  is  one  large  table  of  coral  formation, 
beneath  the  surface  of  which  the  streams  are  found.  These  break  out  at 
interv:  1-  into  caves  and  caverns,  formed  by  earthquakes,  erosion  or  the 
pr*  --nre  of  the  water,  though  sometimes  the  supply  is  due  to  infiltration 
w ter  into  natural  grottos  in  the  coral  rock.  The  Indians.  Cen- 
tura - ago,  marked  the  course  of  these  subterranean  streams  by  heaps 
of  Ties,  and  their  cities  were  always  built  near  the  water-caves,  as  is 
now  shown  by  their  ruins.  These  caves,  where  the  rivers  appear  to  the 
light  of  dav.  are  called  cenotes.  There  are  many  in  Yucatan,  and  they 
form  one  of  the  natural  curiosities  of  the  country.  They  are  used  as  wells 


Cozumel. 


HENEQUEN 


72.  Rte.  583 


and  as  bathing  places.  In  Merida  (p.  574)  they  lie  from  20  to  40  ft.  be- 
low the  surface,  and  many  of  the  houses  have  pumps  connected  with 
them.  The  traveller  to  Yucatan  should  make  it  a point  to  visit*  one  of 
these  curious  water-caves.  A locally  renowned  cenote  is  that  on  the  Ha- 
cienda of  Mucuyche.  “ It  is  a cavern  50  ft.  deep,  broken  down  at  one  side, 
forming  an  arch  of  limestone  with  almost  every  shape  of  stalagmite  and 
stalactite,  the  roof  full  of  holes,  in  which  are  the  nests  of  hundreds  of  Swal- 
lows and  other  birds.  It  is  reached  by  a flight  of  50  steps  which  descend 
to  it,  and  the  overhanging  rock  is  high  enough  to  give  an  air  of  grandeur 
and  wildness  to  it.  At  midday  the  grotto  is  impenetrable  to  the  sun’s 
rays.  At  the  bottom,  resting  upon  a bed  of  white  limestone  rock,  is  a 
still  and  deep  pool  of  crystal  water.  It  is  a very  creation  of  romance;  a 
bathing  place  for  Diana  and  her  nymphs.  Grecian  poets  never  imagined 
so  beautiful  a scene.  The  natives  delight  to  resort  to  these  cool  cenotes 
at  midday,  and  many  of  the  pools  are  used  as  swimming  places.  A 
strange  bird,  called  the  Toh,  lives  in  the  cenotes.  It  is  a species  of 
Momotus,  about  a foot  in  length,  with  fine  silky  feathers  and  a very  cu- 
rious tail  formed  of  two  long  feathers,  which  are  stripped  nearly  to 
iheir  tip,  only  the  naked  shafts  remaining.” 

The  Fauna  and  Flora,  remarkably  rich  and  varied,  embrace  almost 
all  the  species  found  throughout  the  Repub.  Turtles  ( tortugas ) abound 
along  the  coast  and  produce  the  prized  tortoise-shell  ( carey ).  The  woods 
are  filled  with  beautiful  birds,  and  Flamingoes,  Pelicans,  Sea-Gulls,  Cor- 
morants, Terns  and  many  aquatic  birds  people  the  shores.  The  splendid 
forests  abound  in  valuable  woods,  including  the  mastic  ( Pistacia  lentis - 
cus ),  logwood  (comp.  p.  569)  and  many  dye-woods  and  medicinal  plants. 
Fine  sponges  are  found  in  the  sea  contiguous  to  the  coast.  Droughts 
(las  sequias ) are  frequent  and  very  destructive. 

Cozumel  Island  (20  by  60  kilom.),  discovered  by  Fernandez  de 
Cordoba  in  1517,  is  about  20  kilom.  from  the  E.  coast  of  Yucatan,  and 
is  celebrated  for  its  many  ruined  temples,  and  for  fine  woods,  wax  and 
honey.  Cape  Catoche , at  its  N.-E.  extremity,  was  the  first  point  of  the 
then  unknown  kingdom  of  Mexico,  touched  at  by  the  Spaniards,  and 
here  the  first  Mass  was  said  on  Mexican  soil.  The  island  was  once  a Mecca 
for  Maya  and  other  Indian  pilgrims.  It  is  now  almost  depopulated  and 
given  over  to  fishermen  and  woodcutters. 

Isla  Mujeres,  about  6 M.  from  the  coast,  to  the  N.  of  Cozumel, 
formerly  contained  many  Indian  temples.  The  name  was  derived  from 
the  many  terra-cotta  idols,  in  female  form,  found  by  the  Conquerors. 

The  most  important  industry  in  Yucatan  is  the  production  and  ex- 
portation of  the  fibre  of  the  Agave  Sisalense,  called  also  Henequen, 
Sisal-grass,  Sisal-hemp,  and  Sisal.  It  derived  the  latter  name  (used  chiefly 
abroad)  from  the  fact  that  for  many  years  it  was  exported  through  the 
Yucatan  Port  of  Sisal,  until  1871  the  chief  entry  port  of  the  Peninsula. 
It  is  often  called  the  ‘‘Green  Gold  of  Yucatan.”  Three  varieties,  all  of 
which  grow  wild  in  the  forests,  are  known  to  the  Y ucatecos ; the  chelem, 
the  cahum  and  the  citamci.  The  two  varieties  of  the  cultivated  plant  are, 
the  yaxci,  or  green  fibre,  and  sacci,  or  white  fibre.  The  latter  produces 
the  henequen  of  commerce.  The  wild  chelem  is  supposed  to  be  the  pro- 
genitor of  the  cultivated  sacci.  The  fibre  of  the  cahum  is  long  and  silky, 
but  its  brittle  nature  renders  it  useless.  The  sacci  fibre  was  known  to 
the  ancients,  who  twisted  it  into  ropes  and  used  them  for  hauling  to  the 
summits  of  their  pyramids  the  great  stone  blocks  one  sees  to-day  amid 
the  ruined  cities  of  the  forests. 

The  plants  are  produced  from  seeds,  from  cuttings,  and  from  sprouts 
called  hijos  (children).  A field  is  cut,  the  surface  is  burned,  and  three 
months  or  so  before  the  rainy  season  the  hijos  (usually  18  to  20  inches 
high)  that  have  sprouted  from  the  parent  plant  are  rooted  up  and  thrown 
into  a heap,  where  they  lie  exposed  to  the  weather  for  a couple  of  months. 
When  they  present  a dried  and  decayed  appearance  they  are  gathered, 
carried  to  the  cleared  field  and  planted  in  rows  about  4 yards  apart,  each 
plant  about  7 ft.  removed  from  its  brother.  About  1,100  plants  are  gen- 
erally placed  to  the  acre.  The  space  between  the  rows  facilitates  cutting 
and  carrying  off  the  plants  and  prevents  the  wounding  of  the  leaves  by 
the  spines  and  thorns  of  adjacent  plants.  Six  years  after  planting  the 


584  Rte.  72. 


HAMMOCKS 


C hem  ax. 


1,mv«-s  begin  to  yield  fibre.  The  plant  grows  in  the  form  of  a sharp,  con- 
1,  tl  -pike  which  springs  from  the  centre,  and  which  is  soon  encircled  by 
g,  sw  rd-like  leaves  which  radiate  from  it.  A ma- 
t r-  pi  t ! it  will  hear  from  6 to  8 rings  with  from  10  to  15  radiating  leaves. 

1 hr  older  the  leaves,  the  stronger  the  fibre.  The  two  lower  (or  elder) 
are  cut  out  each  year,  and  the  cutting  and  developing  is  almost 
continuous.  The  average  productive  life  of  the  plant  is  ten  years.  At 
t In*  rnd  of  this  period  a hard,  wood-like  bar,  called  in  Spanish,  Varejon, 
and  in  Maya,  bob,  grows  out  of  the  centre  to  a height  of  15  ft.  or  more. 
Sprouts  grow  from  the  apex  of  this  bar,  but  they  require  from  two  to 
three  years  longer  to  mature  than  do  the  hijos  cut  away  from  the  base. 
The  leaves  are  cut  out  with  the  corba,  a machete-like  instrument,  weigh- 
ing about  l)  lbs.  with  a hooked  end.  (A  short,  sharp  spade  is  used  in 
e partsof  Mexico.)  Attached  to  thecorfra  is  an  ingenious  device  which 
t it  - off  the  side  spines  without  injuring  the  fibre.  The  spines  with  which 
the  edges  of  the  leaves  are  armed  are  mildly  poisonous  and  care  has  to  be 
exercised.  Cutting  is  done  by  contract,  Indian  families,  including  small 
children,  being  employed.  The  leaves  are  collected  in  huge  ricks  and 
taken  to  the  scraping  mill.  A somewhat  complicated  decorticator  then 
extracts  the  fibre  from  the  pulp,  and  it  is  bleached,  dried,  pressed  into 
bales  and  prepared  for  shipment.  The  production  of  the  fibre  is  very 
profitable.  There  are  about  400  henequen  plantations  in  the  Peninsula; 
t he  planters  are  called  henequeneros;  the  product  ready  for  export  is  known 
as  h emquin  en  rama;  about  600,000  bales,  valued  at  about  forty  millions 
ol  m KM,  are  annually  exported. 

The  splendid  Hammocks  hamacas)  for  which  Yucatan  is  celebrated 
are  usually  very  long  and  wide  and  are  made  of  the  finest  sacci  fibre.  It 
l-  not  always  possible  to  buy  them,  off  hand,  as  they  are  generally  made 
t<>  order,  the  best  coming  from  private  families,  where  the  ladies  make 
them  in  lieu  of  doing  knitting  or  embroidery.  In  some  of  the  small  towns 
hammock-making  is  almost  as  much  of  a home  industry  as  watch-making 
i-  in  Switzerland.  A hammock  made  by  deft  and  loving  fingers,  to  be 
pr«*>ented  as  a token  of  esteem,  is  a thing  of  beauty  and  utility.  The 
finest  in  the  country  are  made  in  the  little  town  of  Chemax.  They  are  as 
stout  as  the  strongest  linen,  yet  filmy  and  lace-like.  Prices  vary  accord- 
ing to  quality;  the  coarser  ones  sell  for  about  810-820,  a fairly  good  one 
run  be  bought  for  850,  and  a very  fine  one  will  cost  hundreds  of  pesos. 
1 be  I test  are  washable  and  will  last  a life-time.  Hammocks  bear  the  same 
relation  to  Yucatan  that  fine  hats  do  to  Panama.  In  the  suburbs  of 
M>  via  are  factories  where  cordage,  coarse  cloth,  saddle-bags,  twine, 
ro:ir-<*  hammocks,  and  a multitude  of  articles  are  made  from  the  useful 
hcnxjw'n.  Pretty  Mestiza  girls  tend  the  machines.  Foreigners  are  gen- 
cr.illy  expected  to  pay  more  than  the  natives,  and  purchases  should  not 
be  made  before  securing  the  advice  of  some  friend  as  to  values.  The 
hamacas  matrimonial  es  are  wide  enough  for  a half-dozen  persons  to  lie 
acr<>--  them  at  a time.  The  finer  grades  make  useful  and  beautiful 
souvenirs. 


INDEX 


Consult  the  Index  at  p.  vi.  Note  that  in  the  Index  below,  everything 
in  and  about  Mexico  City  comes  under  that  head;  and  this  also  applies  to 
all  the  other  chief  cities. 


Abasolo  104. 

Ac&mbaro  108,  200. 
Acapulco  460. 

Acatzingo  525. 
Acolhuans  426. 

Acolman  4266. 

Agua  Caliente  de  Baca 
62. 

Agua  Fria  548. 
Aguascalientes  City  45. 
— State  47. 

Aguas  Termales  de  Co- 
in an  j ilia  126. 
Ahuacatlan,  Distrito  de 
91. 

Ahuaializapan  490. 
Ahuizotl  530. 

Ajuchitlan  459. 

Ajusco  434. 

Aldama,  Juan  106. 
Alfalfa  33. 


Axolotl  214,  500. 

Axtla  49. 

Ayo  el  Chico  149. 

Aztec  426. 

Aztlan  42. 

Babiocari  81. 

Bahamas  xxxvia. 

Baja  California  84. 
Bajio,  El  127. 

Balleza  104. 

Balsas  458. 

— , Rio  224,  459. 

Barca,  La  150. 
Baroyeca  83. 

Barra,  La  49. 

Barranca  de  Cobre  61. 
Barrientos  Tunnel  122. 
Barroteran  99. 
Basaseachic,  Cascada  de 
30. 


Alhondiga  de  Grana- 
ditas  139. 

Allende,  San  Miguel  de 
105. 

Alligator  Lakes  548. 
Almagre  Grande  79. 
Altamira  51. 

Altar,  Rio  80. 

Altata  90. 

Alvarado  481. 

— , Pedro  de  163,  481. 
Amacusac,  Rio  456. 
Amatlan  483,  487. 
Amealco  120. 
Amecameca  462. 
Amozoc  524. 

Antequera  530. 

Apaches  31. 

Apam  497. 

Apasco  122. 

Apatzingo  459. 

Apizaco  425,  427,  497. 
Arbol  de  las  Manitas 
543. 

Ardilla,  La  79. 

Arispe  82. 

Armeria  River  188. 
Asientos  48. 

Asuncion  529. 

Atencingo  522. 
Atenquiqui  Barranca 
182,  184. 

Atequisa  152,  159. 
Atlixco  521. 

Atotouilco  105,  151. 

— , Lago  de  183. 

Atoyac  485. 

Axayacatl  500. 


Basalenque,  Diego  202, 
207. 

Batopilas  30. 

Bautista,  Fray  Juan  207 
— , San  Juan  560. 
Bavispe,  Rio  80. 
Beaumont  220. 

Bee  30. 

Begona  107. 

Bejuco  Barranca  184. 
Beltran  Barranca  182. 
Benito,  San  563. 

Benson  74. 

Bermejillo  34. 

Bird  Life  549,  552. 
Bisbee  70. 

Blanquillo  River  563. 
Boca  del  Monte  495. 
Boca  Dulce  79. 

Bocoyna  Canon  61. 
Bolanos  96. 

Bolonchen,  Partido  de 
570. 

Bolonchenticul  570. 
Bolson  de  Mapimi  29, 
34. 

Botany  Bay  97. 
Bougainvillaea  442. 
Bravo,  Valle  de  198. 
Buena  Vista  Battle- 
field 15. 

Bufa,  La  38. 

Cabo  de  Haro  78. 
Cacahuamilpa  454. 
Cacao  552. 

Cacti  29. 

Cadereyta  120. 


Caimanes,  Laguna  de 
los  188. 

Cajijitlan,  Lago  de  182. 
Calabozal  44. 

Calandrias  552. 

Calera  38. 

California,  Lower  84. 

— , Gulf  of  84. 

Calvillo  47. 

Calzontzin  218. 

Camino  Real  558. 
Campeche  City  570. 

— State  569. 
Campephilus  imperiales 

58. 

Canal  del  Infiernillo  80. 
Cananea  71. 

— Consolidated  Copper 
Co.  72. 

Canas  185. 

Candelaria  24. 

Canon  de  Marfil  138. 
Cantabria  213. 

Cape  San  Lucas  84. 
Caracolillo  228. 

Carbo  76. 

Carmen  569. 

Carpintero  185. 

Casas  G.randes  54. 

— de  Piedras  567. 
Casitas  Canon  75. 
Casones  481. 

Castillo,  El  161. 

Catorce,  Real  de  16. 
Cave  Dwellers  59. 
Cazadero  132. 

Century  Plant  498. 
Cerro  Alto  423. 

— del  Borrego  493. 

— de  las  Campanas  119. 

— del  Cubilete  126. 

— de  los  Gallos  46. 

— Loco  559. 

— del  Mercado  103. 

— de  Montezuma  106. 

— Prieto  75. 

— de  San  Miguel  523. 

— del  Tesoro  135. 
Chacaltianguis  483. 
Chacamas  563. 
Chachipehuela  185. 
Chac-Mool  215,  305,582. 
Chacuaco  44. 

Chalcas  43. 
Chalchihuites  102. 
Chaleo  199. 

Chamacuero  107. 
Chapala,  Lago  de  151, 

— Village  152. 


5S6 


INDEX 


Chapaltecos  156. 
Charcas  16. 

Charcoal  434. 

Charenses  226. 

Chareos  226. 

( 201. 

Chenes,  Los  570. 

Chcran  223. 
Chiapanecos  565. 
Chiapas  State  565. 

— Indians  565. 

Chichd  565. 

Chichimecas  43,  134. 
Chicomoztoc  43. 

Chietla  522. 

Chihuahua  City  25,  63. 

— Dogs  31. 

— State  29. 

Chihuitldn  542. 

Chilli  424. 

Chilpancingo  de  los 
Bravos  459. 

Chiinal,  Salto  de  465. 
Chinipas  32. 

Chinos  93. 

Chipi-chipi  504. 
Chirinos,  P.  A.  82. 
Chivatcra  72. 

Chi  vela  Pass  554. 
Cholula  518. 

Chone  121. 
Chontalcuatlan,  Rio 
456. 

Chuhuichupa  55. 
Chulavete  96. 
Chupaderos  Meteorite 
34. 

Chuviscar  56. 

( Sbuta  Mts.  75. 

C gurrero  Mine  63. 
Cima,  La  435. 

Cintalapa  Valley  559. 
Citlaltepetl  496. 

< Juarez  22,  51. 

— Perforada  45. 

— Porfirio  Diaz  99. 

Cl  oof  as  96. 

(’liff  Dwellers  02. 
Coahuayana,  ltio  224. 
Conhuila  13. 

Coat  epee  506. 

Coate  telco  456. 

Coat  znroalcos  550. 

Coca  553. 

Cochineal  543. 
Cock-fight  24. 

( '<  ><  namit  'I  n c 482. 
Cocospera  75. 

Coffee  489. 

Coincho  Canon  209. 
Coix  Calachryma  Jobi 
59. 

Colhuns  43. 

Colima  Citv  185. 

— River  186. 


Colima  State  189. 

— , Volcan  de  186. 
Colliman,  Kingdom  of 
190. 

Colonia  Juarez  52. 
Colonias  de  Galeana 
55. 

Colorada,  La  37. 
Colorado  River  85. 
Columbia  Consolidated 
Mines  75. 

Comala  190. 

Comitan  559,  565. 
Comondu  84. 
Compostela,  Distrito  de 
91. 

Concepcion  13. 

Conchos  River  56. 
Conejos  34. 

Conuy  227. 

Coras  95. 

Cordoba  486,  544. 
Corupo,  San  Antonio 
223. 

Cosolapa,  Rio  546. 
Cotton  102. 

Coyol  Real  508. 

Coyuca  de  Catalan  459. 
Cresta  de  Gallo  423. 
Creston  423. 

Cruces,  Sierra  de  las  199. 
Cruz,  Fray  A.  de  la  207. 

— Juan  I.  de  la  465. 

— de  Marla  222. 

— del  Marquez  435. 
Cuatro  Cienegas  99. 
Cuauhtemotzin  134. 
Cuauhtitlan  137. 
Cuauhtla  466. 
Cuauhtlixco  466. 

Cuba  xxx vid 
Cuernavaca  436. 

— Acapacingo  452. 

— Acueducto  447. 
Arbol  de  Dinamita 

437. 

Atlacomulco  451. 
Borda  Garden  441. 
Borde,  J.  de  la  441. 
Bougainvillaea  442. 
Cacahuamilpa  Cav- 
erns 454. 

Capillade  Guadalupe 
447. 

Casa  de  Maximillano 
452. 

Cathedral  444. 
Chamilpa  449. 
Colonia  Miraval  448. 
Flor  de  la  Noche 
Buena  442. 

Fuente,  La  450. 
Hacienda  de  Buena 
Vista  449. 

Cortes,  453. 


Cuernavaca : 

Hotels  436. 

Huichilac  449. 

Iglesia  Catolica  Mexi- 
cana  447. 

— de  Chapultepec 
450. 

— de  los  Tepetates 
447. 

Mercado  440. 

Morelos,  Jose  Marla 
438. 

Museo  de  Tepoztlan 
453. 

Nuestra  Senora  de 
Guadalupe  446. 

Palacio  de  Cort4s 
437. 

Pantedn  450. 

Parque  Carmen  Ro- 
mero Rubio  de  Diaz 
447. 

Plaza  de  Congreso 
440. 

— de  Cortes  447. 

— de  Zaragoza  450. 

Pottery  450. 

San  Antonio,  Church 
of  449. 

— Salto  de  449. 

Statue  to  Carlos  Pa- 
checo 440. 

Strychnos  Nux- Vom- 
ica 437. 

Tears  of  Job  437. 

Tepoxtepec,  Teocalli 
de  452. 

Tercer  Orden  de  San 
Francisco  446. 

Teutli,  Cerro  de  453. 

Tlahuicas  437. 

Tlaltenango  448. 

— Virgen  del  Pueblo 
de  448. 

Tulyahualco  454. 

Xochicalco,  Cerro  de 
453. 

Yoloxochitl  443. 

Cucuji  568. 

Cuilty  25. 

Cuitlatecos  226. 

Cuitzeo  201,  225. 

Culebras  120. 

Culiacan  Rosales  90. 

Cumaripa  78. 

Cumbre,  La  201. 

Cupatltzio  230. 

Cuyutlan  188. 

Degollado,  Santos  204. 

Desert,  The  16. 

Diligencias  151. 

Dolores,  Grito  del06 

— Hidalgo  104. 

— River  76. 


INDEX 


587 


Dominguez,  Josefa 
Ortiz  de  111. 

Dona  Maria  Mine  82. 
Drawn  Linen  46. 
Dublan,  Colonia  52. 
Dura,  La  78. 

Durango  City  100. 

— State  102. 

Eagle  Pass  98. 

Ebano  49. 

Edificios,  Los  42. 
Elater  Fire-fly  568. 

El  Parque  435. 

El  Paso  23. 

Empalme  78. 
Encantada  56. 
Encarnacidn  123. 
Ensenada  86. 
Erongaricuaro  213. 
Escalon  34. 

Escape  de  la  Cumbre 

201. 

Esmeralda,  Huerta  de 
78. 

Esperanza  495. 

Estancia  185. 

Estrella  del  Norte  82. 
Etla  528. 

Evangelista,  San  Juan 
551. 

Extoraz  120. 

Fdbrica  de  Hercules 
118. 

Floating  Gardens  350. 
Fortin  488. 

— de  Zaragoza  534 
Franciscan  Style,  121. 

— order  324. 

Fresnillo  37. 

Fuerte  River  61. 

Galirdo  120. 

Gamboa  558. 

Garrapata  570. 
Gerbnimo  24. 

— , San  554. 
Gesticulation  244 1. 
Giant’s  Causeway  423. 
Golfo  de  California  84. 
Gomez  Palacio  35. 
Gonzalez  Junction  107. 
Gorda,  Sierra  145. 
Grijalva  River  560. 
Grillo,  El  38. 

Grito  de  Dolores  106. 
Guacomea  Mts.  75. 
Guadalajara  161. 

Agua  Azul  178. 
Alameda  177. 
Barranca  de  Oblatos 
178. 

Biblioteca  del  Estadc 
177. 


Guadalajara  : 

Bull  Ring  177. 
Calzada  177. 
Cathedral  166. 
Church  of  El  Carmen 
173. 

— de  Jesus  Maria 

175. 

— de  Mexicaltzingo 

176. 

— de  Nuestra  Senora 
de  Guadalupe  175. 

. — Our  Lady  of  Aran- 
zazu  173. 

— de  San  Agustin 
176. 

— de  San  Felipe 
Neri  175. 

— de  San  Francisco 
172. 

— de  San  Josd  de 
, Gracia  174. 

— de  Santa  Maria  de 
Gracia  176. 

— de  Santa  Monica 
166. 

— de  la  Virgen  de  la 
Soledad  180. 

Climate  164. 

Colegio  de  la  Inmacu- 
lada  Concepcion 
176. 

Hospicio  177 
Jardin  Juarez  174. 

— de  San  Francisco 

172. 

Mercado  Corona  177. 
Nunez,  J.  Silverio 
statue  174. 

Palacio  de  Gobierno 
165. 

Pan  Duro  180. 
Penitentiary  174. 
Plaza  del  Carmen 

173. 

— de  Hidalgo  175. 

— Mayor  164. 

Pottery  179. 

San  Pedro  Tlaque- 
paque  179. 

Teatro  Degollado  176. 
Zapopan  178. 
Guadalupe  y Calvo  60. 

— (Mexico  City)  392. 

— (Zacatecas)  42. 
Guadiana,  Valley  of 

102. 

Guanajuato  City  137. 

— , Nuestra  Senora  de 
142. 

— , Sierra  de  145. 

— , State  of  145. 
Guanaeevi  104. 
Guatemala  560. 
Guatulco  542. 


Guayabate  456. 
Guayangareo,  El  Valle 
de  202. 

Guaymas  78. 
Guazapares  57. 
Guecorio  213. 
Guerenguela,  Ruins  556. 
Guernsey,  F.  R.  492, 521. 
Guerrero  River  61. 

— State  460. 

Gui-y-Baa  536. 
Gutierrez,  Ceferino  106. 

Hacienda  de  Guadalupe 
558. 

Havana  xxxvid. 
Hermosillo  77. 

Herdica  Ejutla  Crespo 
529. 

Hidalgo,  Dolores  104. 

— Miguel  27,  140,  207. 

— State  423. 

Higo,  El  49. 

Hikuli  93. 

Hill  of  the  Bells  119. 
Hints  244Z. 

Horcasitas  River  77. 
Hornos  100. 

Huacapa  River  459. 
Huajuapam  de  Leon 
525. 

Huamantla,  Valle  de 
429. 

Huatusco  486. 

Huaxteca  50./. 
Huejotzingo  517. 
Huejustla  49. 

Huetdmo  229. 
Hueyapan  456,  498. 
Hueyutla  423. 
Huichapan  121. 
Huicholes  92. 
Huimanguillo  District 
560. 

Huingo  201. 

Huipil  555. 

Huitzilopochtli  42,  302. 
Huitzizilin  210. 

Huixtla  559. 

Humaya,  Rio  89. 
Humboldt  224,  423. 
Humming  Birds  217. 
Hunting  53. 

Iguala  457. 

— Plan  de  457. 

Iguanas  552. 

Iguatzio  216. 

Imuris  75. 

Infiernillo,  El  493. 
Inlaid-work  491. 
Irapuato  126,  148. 

Irolo  424. 

Iron  Mt.  103. 

Isla  del  Carmen  85. 


5S8 


INDEX 


I si  as  dc  Tres  Marlas 
96. 

Iturbide,  Agustin  de  51, 
204. 

— Son  Josd  de  120. 
Ixbul,  Cerro  de  563. 
Ixmiquilpan  135. 
Ixthuatan  559. 
Ixtlnhuaca  198,  199. 
Ixtli  424. 

Izatla  423. 
lztaccihuatl  464. 

Jnrala  423. 

Jaialpa  194. 

Jalapa  503. 

Jalisco  181,  559,  568. 
Jalpan  120. 

Jamapa.  Rio  481,  484. 
Jainay  157. 

Jaral  del  Valle  127. 
Jarita  3. 

Jew  fish  50. 

Jhuatzio  215. 

Jilotlan  218. 

Jimba  548. 

Jimenez  33,  63. 

Jimulco  36. 

Joco  tepee  157. 

Jojutla  456. 

Jonacatep<*c  456. 

Jorullo  224. 

Joya,  La  494. 

Juacuaro  209. 

Juarnave  50. 
Juanacatlan,  El  Salto  de 
159. 

Juarez.  Benito  272,  328, 
3.38.  534. 

Juchipila,  Rio  44. 
Juchitan  543,  558. 

Juilc  551. 

Jungle  551. 

Kirnpech  570. 

Lncnndones  563. 
Lacquer  229. 

Lim  138. 

— , Nuestra  Sefiora  de 
123. 

— , San  Juan  de  los  123. 
Laguna  24. 

— District  100,  103. 

— de  Castilla  57. 

— de  Cocos  481. 

— tie  TYrminos  569. 
Laja.  I.a  106. 

— , Rio  131. 

1a  Junta  61. 

Lampnxos  4. 

Laredo  2. 

— Nuevo  3. 

Legaspi.  Miguel  Lopez 

de  189. 


'Leon  124. 

Lerdo  35,  104. 

Lerma,  Rio  148, 1 79, 199. 
Llanitos,  Los  145. 
Llanos  de  Apam  429. 
Lodos  de  Munguia  145. 
Log-wood  569. 

Lorenzo,  San  424. 
Lower  California  84. 

I 

Macuiltepec,  Cerro  de 
504. 

Magdalena  Bay  85. 

— District  75. 

— , Lago  de  1S2. 
Maguarichic  56. 
Magueyales  501. 

Maize  133. 

Malila  424. 

Malinche  497. 

Malintzi  429,  497. 

Mai  Pais  224. 

Maltrata  494. 

Mamantel  569. 

Mamd  565. 

Manzanillo  188. 

Mapilca  4S1. 

Marcos,  San  496. 

Mar:a  Madre  97. 
Marimba  565. 

Marina  497. 
Marquesadas,  Las  557, 

558. 

Marquesado,  El  530. 
Matamoros  12,  522. 

— Mariano  206. 
Matehuala  16. 

Mateo,  San  222. 

Matias  Romero  553. 
Matlaeu^yatl  429. 
Maximilian  119. 

Mayo.  Rio  89. 

Mazapil  44. 

Mazatlan  90. 

Medanos,  Los  24. 
Medellin  481. 
Melanogaster  variegatus 

60. 

Melilla  44. 

Melon  Zapote  548. 
Membrillate  456. 
Mercado,  Gines  Vas- 
quez  del  101. 

Mero  79. 

Mescala  Island  156. 
Mesquital  44. 

Mezquitic  Valley  96. 
Meteorites  34. 

Met  lac  Barranca  488. 
Metlapiles  423. 
Mexcalapa  River  560. 
Mex.  Navigation  Co. 
xxxvio. 

M ex.  States  Line  S.S.  Co. 
xxxvip. 


Mexico  City  232,  251. 

Academia  Nacionalde 
San  Carlos  310. 

Aduana  de  Santiago 
358. 

Ahuehuetes  245. 

Ahuizotl  246. 

Ajusco,  Sierra  de 
246. 

Alameda  327. 

Albuquerque,  Duke 
of  283. 

Ambassadors  239. 

American  Club  2446. 

American  School  371 

Amygdaloid  245. 

Antique  Rooms  320. 

Aqueduct  383. 

Aranda  246. 

Arbol  de  la  Noehe 
Triste  418. 

Archives,  Public  268. 

Archivo  del  Palaeio 
Municipal  292. 

Astronomical  Observ- 
atory 417. 

Atotonilco  El  Grande 
246. 

Aut  omobile  Club 2446. 

— Garages  244a. 

Avenida  Cinco  de 
Mayo  317. 

— Diez  y Seis  de 
Septiembre  258, 
322. 

— de  Miguel  Hidalgo 
y Costilla  235 

— Juarez  257. 

— de  Francisco  I. 
Madero  258. 

Ayuiitamiento  249. 

Azcapotzalco  419. 

Ball  Game,  Basque, 
2446. 

Banks  244c. 

Battle  of  Molino  del 
Rev  381. 

Belem  Prison  369. 

Biblioteca  Naeiona. 
344. 

Bookstores  244/. 

Bronze  Horse  373 

Buen  Tono  Cigarette 
Factory  370. 

Bull  Ring  2446. 

Caballito,  El  373. 

Cabs  238. 

Caf£  Colon  376. 

Calendar  stone  299. 

Callejones  256. 

Calles  256,  257. 

— de  Bucareli  371. 

— de  Capuchina3 
346. 

— de  Gante  320. 


INDEX 


589 


Mexico  City  : 

Calles  del  Puente  de 
Alvarado  340. 

— de  Ribera  de  San 
Cosme  340. 

— de  San  Juan  de 
Letran  258. 

— de  Santo  Domingo 
353. 

Calzada  de  la  Vero- 
nica 390. 

Canal  Nacional  350. 

Capilla  de  la  Cande- 
laria 368. 

— del  Cerrito  405. 

— del  Pocito  403. 

— del  Senor  de  la 
Expiacion  356. 

Carcel  de  Belem  369. 

Casa  d^  Alvarado 
411. 

— del  Ayuntamiento 
292. 

— de  los  Azulejos 
326. 

— de  Comunicaciones 
y Obras  Publicas 
331. 

— de  Correos  328. 

— de  los  Mascarones 
342. 

— de  Moneda  364. 

Cathedral  273. 

Cemetery,  American 

342. 

— Dolores  391. 

— English  342. 

— French  371. 

— de  San  Fernando 
337. 

— Spanish  342. 

— Tepeyac  405. 

Centigrade  xlvii. 

Chaleo  247. 

Chamber  of  Com- 
merce 2445. 

Chapel  of  the  Well 
403. 

Chapultepec  379. 

Chiluca  279. 

Chinampas  350. 

Churches  243 

— of  Balvanera  346. 

— El  Colegio  de  Ninas 

346. 

— La  Concepcion  del 
Salto  de  Agua  370. 

— El  Corazon  de 
Jesus  371. 

— Jesus  Maria  364. 

— Jesus  Nazareno 
348. 

— La  Merced  370. 

— , Methodist  Episco- 
pal 320. 


Mexico  City  : 

Churches  of : 

Nuestra  Senora  del 
Carmen  358. 

de  la  Concep- 

cidn  332. 

de  la  Encar- 

nacion  357. 

de  Guadalupe 

397. 

de  Loreto  362. 

— Porta  Cceli  343. 

— La  Profesa  318. 

— La  Regina  352. 

— El  Rosario  368. 

— San  Agustin  346. 

— San  Antonio  Abad 
350. 

— San  Antonio  Te- 
pito  358. 

— San  Antonio  To- 
matlan  368. 

— San  Bernardo  343. 

— San  Cosme  340. 

— San  Diego  334. 

— San  Felipe  de 
Jesus  325. 

— San  Fernando 
337. 

— San  Francisco  321 . 

— San  Geronimo 
368. 

— San  Hipolito  335. 

— San  Jose  de  Gracia 
349. 

— San  Jose  de  los 
Naturales  370. 

— San  Juan  de  Dios 

333. 

— San  Lorenzo  332. 

— San  Miguel  349. 

— San  Pablo  350. 

— Santa  Brigida  326. 

— Santa  Catalina  de 
Sena  357. 

— Santa  Catarina 
Mdrtir  358. 

— Santa  Clara  331. 

— Santa  Cruz  Acat- 
lan  350. 

— Santa  Ines  359. 

— Santa  Maria  de  los 
Angeles  333. 

— Santa  Teresa  la 
Antigua  359. 

— Santa  Teresa  la 
Nueva  363. 

— Santa  Vera  Cruz 

334. 

— Santiago  Tlalte- 
lolco  358. 

— Santisima  Trinidad 
365. 

— Santo  Domingo 
353. 


Mexico  City  : 

Churches  of : 

Santo  Tomas  de  la 
Palma  367. 

— Soled  ad  de  Santa 
Cruz  366. 

Church  Festivals 
2445. 

Churubusco  407. 

Cigars  and  Cigarettes 
244/. 

Cinco  de  Mayo,  Ave. 
de  317. 

Ciudadela  369. 

Clubs  2446. 

Club  Campestre  407. 

Coat-of-Arms  249. 

Colegio  de  Mineria 
330. 

— de  la  Paz  352. 

— de  San  Ignacio 
370. 

— de  San  Ildefonso 
360. 

— de  las  Vizcainas 
352. 

Collections,  etc.  244i. 

College  of  Mines 
330. 

Colonia  de  la  Bolsa 
257. 

— de  Condesa  264. 

— Chapultepec 

Heights  390a. 

— Cuauhtemoc  264. 

— Hidalgo  264. 

— Indianilla  264. 

— Juarez  255. 

— Roma  264. 

— San  Rafael  264. 

— Santa  Julia  264. 

— Santa  Maria  264. 

— Tlaxpana,  264. 

Comisaria  256. 

Commercial  Museum 
328. 

Conservatorio  de  Mu- 
sica  343. 

Consuls  2446. 

Country  Club  407. 

Coyoacan  408. 

Cristobal,  San  247. 

Cuarteles  256. 

Cuauhtemoc  377. 

Cuevas,  Las  246. 

Demarcaciones  256. 

Dentists  2446. 

Desagiie,  Canal  del 
250. 

— Ferrocarril  del 
233. 

Desierto,  El  350d. 

Distrito  Federal  245. 

Dominicans  353. 

Drainage  Canal  248. 


590 


INDEX 


Mexico  City: 

Drainage  Canal  Rail- 
way 233. 

Enrico  Martinez  Mon- 
ument 297. 

Escuela  Comercial 
Francesa  371. 

— Nacional  de  Med- 
icina  356. 

— Nacional  Prepara- 
tory 360. 

— de  N uestra  Senora 
del  Pilar  364. 

— de  Tiro  de  Arti- 
lleria  368. 

Espana  246. 

Estacidn  de  Buena 
Vista  232. 

— de  Colonia  232, 
264. 

— de  Peralvillo  233. 

— de  San  Lazaro 
36S. 

Eucalyptus  372. 

Express  Offices 
244  a. 

Fahrenheit  xlvii. 

Federal  District  245. 

Flower  Market  293. 

Franciscan  Order  324. 

Gante,  Calle  de  320. 

— Fray  Pedro  de 
320. 

( larmes  256. 

Glorieta  Cuauhtemoc 
376. 

Golf  Links  244 Ji. 

Guadalupe  392. 

— Church  397. 

— History  394. 

— River  248. 

Hapsburg  Arms  250. 

Hipddromo  2446. 

Horse  Races  244 h. 

Hospicio  de  Pobres 
353. 

Hospital  Concepcion 
Beistegui  352. 

— de  Jesus  Nazareno 
349. 

Hotels  234. 

Houses  256. 

Huitzilopochtli  302, 
303. 

Inquisition  356. 

Lnstituto  Geologico 
Nacional  341. 

— Medico  Nacional 
369. 

Intendente  del  Pala- 
cio  268. 

Inundations  254. 

Iron  Horse  373. 

Iturbide  Hotel  320. 

Jalpan  247. 


Mexico  City: 

Jardin  Corregidora 
Dominguez  356. 

— Morelos  333. 

— de  Nuestra  Senora 
de  Loreto  364. 

— de  Propagacion 
385. 

Jesuits  318. 

— Order  363. 

Jeweller  37  Stores  244e. 

Jiloncingo  246. 

Juan  Diego  394. 

Juarez,  Benito  Pablo 
338. 

Lagartijos  258. 

Liberty  Bell  266. 

Library,  National 
344. 

Lodges  2446. 

Madero,  Avenida  de 
Francisco  I.  258. 

Manzanas  256. 

Market,  Flower  293. 

— , Merced  262. 

— , San  Juan  370. 

— , Thieves’  296. 

Mercado  del  Volador 
296. 

Mineria,  La  330. 

Ministerio  de  Guerra 
268. 

— de  Hacienda  268. 

Ministers  239. 

Mint  364. 

Mixcoac  416. 

Molino  del  Rey  385. 

Money  Changers  2446. 

Monte  de  Piedad  295. 

Monument  to  the  Ca- 
dets 381. 

— to  Enrico  Marti- 
nez 297. 

— to  Independence 
378. 

Mozarabic  Liturgy 
324. 

Municipal  Palace  292. 

Museo  Nacional  298. 

de  Artilleria 

369. 

— Tecnologico  331. 

— de  Comercio  328. 

Mutual  Life  Ins. 

Bl’d’g  318. 

National  Museum 
298. 

— Palace  267. 

— Pawn  Shop  295. 

Newspapers  244^. 

Nochistongo  247. 

Non  Fecit  Taliter 
Omni  Natione  398. 

Nuestra  Senora  de  la 
Bala  348. 


Mexico  City  : 

Observatorio  Meteo- 
rologico  260,  26S. 
Palacio  Bazaine  340. 

— del  Conde  de  San- 
tiago 347. 

— de  Correos  328. 

— Legislative  256. 

— Municipal  292. 

— Nacional  267. 
Panteon  de  Dolores 

391. 

— de  San  Fernando 
337. 

Parian  266. 

Parque  Central  264. 
Parrots  294. 

Paseo  de  la  Reforma 
372. 

Pawn  shops  296. 
Pedregal  411. 

Pena  Pobre  407. 
Penitentiary  368. 
Penon,  El  246. 
Pharmacies  244^. 
Photographs,  Views, 
etc.  244/. 
Physicians  2446. 
Picture  Gallery  310. 
Piedad,  La  416. 
Plateresco,  Estilo 
328. 

Plaza  de  los  Angeles 
333. 

— de  los  Arcos  de 
Belem  370. 

— del  Carmen  358, 
411. 

— de  la  Constitucion 
265. 

— del  Hipodromo 
264. 

— de  Loreto  362. 

— Mayor  261 . 

— del  Quemadero 
328. 

— de  la  Reforma 
372. 

— de  la  Republica 
256. 

— de  Santa  Maria 
341. 

— de  Santo  Domingo 
356. 

— de  Tepito  358. 

— de  Tlaltelolco  265. 

— de  Toros  371. 
Police  256. 

Popotla  418. 

Portal  de  Mercaderes 

294. 

Portales  294. 
Post-Offices  244a,  328. 
Protestant  churches 
244i. 


INDEX 


591 


Mexico  City  : 

Puente  de  Alvarado 
339. 

Quemadero  266. 

Railway  Stations  233. 

Rastro  Nuevo  368. 

Restaurants  and 
Caffis  236. 

Rooms,  Furnished 
233. 

Sacrificial  Stone  301. 

Sagrario  Metropoli- 
tan© 290. 

San  Agustin  dte  las 
Cuevas  405. 

San  Angel  412. 

Sanborn’s  237. 

San  Felipe  de  Jesus 
325. 

San  Juan  Market  370. 

San  Lazaro  District 
367. 

Santa  Rosa  de  Lima 
285. 

— Veronica  347. 

Santo  Oficio,  Tribu- 
nal del  356. 

School,  American  371. 

Shops  244e. 

Sierra  de  Ajusco  246. 

— Madre  Oriental 
246. 

— Nevada  246. 

Sincoque  246. 

Soldiers  260. 

Sonora  News  Com- 
pany 244e,  320. 

Stamp  Printing  Of- 
fice 268. 

Statue  of  Charles  IV 
373. 

— of  Christopher  Co- 
lumbus 374,  376. 

— of  Quauhtemotzin 
376. 

Steamship  offices 
244a. 

Tacuba  418. 

Tacubaya  417. 

Taxicabs  238. 

Telegraph-Offices 

244a. 

Tenochtitlan  246, 
252. 

Tepetate  245. 

Tepeyac  Hill  404. 

— Panteon  de  405. 

Tepozotlan  136,  247. 

Tequesquite  247. 

Tequixquiac  River 
246. 

— Tunnel  248. 

Texcoco  247. 

Tezontle  245. 

Theatres  244p. 


Mexico  City: 

Thieves’  Market  296. 
Tianguiz  266. 

Ticket  offices  233. 
Tlalpan  405. 
Tlaltelolco,  Plaza  de 
265. 

Tolsa,  Manuel  331. 
Tombac  281. 
Tramways  239. 
Tranvias  239. 
Treasury,  Federal 
268. 

Tree  of  the  Dismal 
Night  418. 
Tulancingo  Valley 
246. 

University  343. 

Valley  of  Mexico  246. 
Viga,  La  350. 

Virgen  de  los  Angeles 
333. 

— of  Bethlehem, 
Painting  287. 

— de  Guadalupe  392. 

— de  la  Macane  327. 

— de  la  Soledad  366. 
Washington  Monu- 
ment 371 . 

Xaltocan  247. 
Xochimilco  247,  350. 
Xoloc  351. 
Zancopinca  420. 
Zinguilucan  Valley 
246. 

Zocalo  265. 

Zumpango  247. 
Mexico,  State  198. 
Michoacan  217. 

Michoas  226. 

Micoatli  426. 

Micos  49. 

Milpas  498. 

Milpillas  60. 

Mina,  Francisco  Javier 
51. 

Minaca  61,  63. 

Minas  Nuevas  67. 
Mineral  del  Triunfo 
85. 

Mining  Law  73. 
Miradores  51. 

Misantla  481. 

Mitla,  Ruins  534,  537. 
— - San  Pablo  537. 
Mixtequilla  556. 

Mochis  62. 

Monclova  15. 

Monte  Alban  534. 

— Alto  199. 

— Bajo  199. 

Monterey  5. 

Alameda  Porfirio 
Diaz  9. 

Bull  Ring  9. 


Monterey: 

Casino  8. 

Cathedral  7. 

Chepe  Vera  Hill  9. 
Church  of  Nuestra 
Senora  del  Roble 
8. 

— of  San  Francisco 

8. 

Garcia  Caves  (Caver- 
nas  de  Pesqueria) 

9. 

Juarez  Monument  6. 
Obispado  Viejo  9. 
Palacio  de  Gobierno 
6. 

— Municipal  9. 

Plaza  Cinco  de  Mayo 

6. 

— de  Zaragoza,  9. 
Mirador  7. 

Mitre  Mt.  7. 

Saddle  Mt.  7. 

Topo  Chico  Springs 

10. 

Monterrubio  209. 
Montezuma,  Cerro  de 
106. 

Morelia  202. 

Morelos,  Josd  Maria  y 
Pavon  202,  204. 

— State  456. 

— Valley  435. 

Mulege  84. 

Murillo  169. 

Muzquiz  99. 

Naco  69. 

Nacozari  69. 

Nahua  426. 

Nahuatl  135. 

Nassau  xxxvia. 
Naucalpam,SanB4rtolo 
191. 

Nauchampatepetl  504. 
Navaja,  Cerro  de  423. 
Navojoa  89. 

Nayarit,  state  of  92 
Nazas,  Rio  103. 

Necaxa  Falls  517. 
Nevado,  El  187. 

New  York  xxxv. 

N.  Y.  & Cuba  Mail  S.  S. 

Co.  xxxiv. 

Nieves  102. 

— -,  Rio  Grande  de  44. 
Nile  of  Durango  103. 
Nochistongo,  Tajo  de 
135. 

Nochixtlan  529. 
Nogales  74. 

Nombre  de  Dios  102. 
Novillos  44. 

Nuevo  Laredo  3. 

— Leon  11. 


592 


INDEX 


Oaxaca  City  528. 

— Indians  542. 

— State  641. 
Oaxatepec  456. 

< Obsidian  220,  423. 

( >caranza,  Manuel  228. 
Ocotlan  (Jalisco)  1 1. 
Oil  50m 

Olas  Altas  Bay  90. 
Olive  Trees  216. 
Olmecs  426. 

Ometusco  498. 

Onabas  83. 

Onofre,  San  120. 

Onyx  518,  542. 

Opal  Mines  120. 

Opals  110. 

Orchids  564. 

Organos  de  Octdpan 
423. 

Oriental  501. 

Orizaba  489. 

— Pico  de  496. 

Oro.  Placeres  de  459. 

— Real  del  199. 
Otumba  498. 

Pacanda  214. 

Pachuca  135,  422. 

— , Sierra  de  423. 
Pacific  Mail  S.  S.  Co. 
xxxvip. 

Pajacuaran  157. 
Palenque  Ruins  567. 
Palizada  569. 

Palma,  La  157. 

Palmilla  67. 
Panama-hats  570. 
Panuco  River  50/. 
Papalodpam,  Rio  547. 
Papantla  507. 
Papasquiaro  103. 
Papaya  548. 

Paracho  219 
Paraje  Nuevo  485. 
Parangaricutiro  219. 
Paranguitiro  226. 
Parral  64. 

Parras  14. 

Paso  del  Macho  485. 

— de  Salas  483. 

— del  Toro  481 . 
Passion  Plav  462. 
Patambdn,  Cerro  de 

224. 

Patzcuaro  209. 

— Lake  213. 

Paz,  La  86. 

Pearl  Fishing  87. 

— Hunters  88. 

Pedro,  San  213. 

Pelea  de  Gallos  24. 
Penjamo  148. 

Petioles  542. 

Penon  Blanco  21. 


Penon  del  Rosario  429. 
Perote,  San  Carlos  502. 

— Cofre  de  504. 
Pertenencia  72. 
Pesqueira  76. 

Petates  518. 

Picaflores  210. 
Pichachic  61. 
Pichihualtepee  44. 
Pichucalco  563. 

Pico  de  Sangangiiey  91. 

— de  Teyra  44. 

Picos,  Los  Tres  563. 
Piedad,  La  148. 

Piedras  Negras  98. 
Pijijiapam  559. 

Pimas  60. 

Pineta  Mts.  75. 

Pinto  460. 

Pintos  569. 

Pirindas  226. 

Pitiquitas  44. 

Placeres  de  Oro  459. 
Planchas  de  Plata  75. 
Play  it  as.  Las  77. 
Polotitlan  131. 
Popocatepetl  463. 

Pozos  104. 

Presa,  La  138. 

Presidio  del  Norte  56. 
Prietas  78. 

Promontorio  76. 

Puebla  424,  508. 

— , State  of  517. 

Casa  de  Alfenique 
516. 

— de  la  Jefatura  de 
Hacienda  516. 

Cathedral  512. 

Cerro  Gordo  511. 

— de  Guadalupe  515. 

— de  Loreto  515. 
Church  of  Las  Capu- 

chinas  517. 

La  Compama 

516. 

La  Concepcion 

516. 

— Nuestra  Senora  de 
Guadalupe  511 

de  la  Sole- 

dad  516. 

— San  Cristdbal  516. 
— San  Francisco 
515. 

— San  Geronimo  516. 
— San  Josd  515. 
Church  of  San  Juan 
de  Letran  516. 

— San  Marcos  516. 
— Santa  Catarina 

517. 

— La  Santisima  517. 
Fountain  of  San 
Miguel  515. 


Puebla : 

History  510. 
Leocadia,  Saint  514. 
PalacioMunicipal517. 
Parian  516. 

Paseo  Nuevo  511. 
Plaza  dela  Constitu- 
cion  511. 

— de  San  Jose  515. 
— San  Francisco 

515. 

Statue  to  Hidalgo 
511. 

— to  Ignacio  Zara- 
goza 515. 

- — to  Nicolas  Bravo 
511. 

Talavera  509. 
Pueblito  118. 

— , Virgen  del  118. 
Puente  de  Ixtla  457, 
467. 

Puertecitos  72. 

Puerto  Mexico  550. 
Pulque  121,  134. 
Punhuato,  Cerro  de  203. 
Purapecha  Indians  217. 

Quemada,  La  42. 
Querendaro  201. 
Queretaro  City  109. 

— State  119. 

Querobabi  76. 

Quesaria  185. 

Quetzal  563. 
Quetzalcoatl  496. 
Quijano  75. 

Quilapan  542. 

Quinceo  224. 

Quintera  Mine  82. 
Quiotepec  542. 

Quiroga,  Vasco  de  207, 

211,  212. 

— Village  213. 
Quitupan,  Lago  de  182. 
Quiyechapa  542. 

Real  del  Monte,  423. 
Reata  100. 

Regia,  Conde  de  295, 
423. 

Remedios,  Virgen  de  los 
191. 

Reyes,  Los  149. 

Ribera  Castellanos  155. 
Rincon  Antonio  553. 

— de  Romos  45. 

Rio  Blanco  120,  493. 

— Bravo  3. 

— Chiquito  203. 

— Grande  del  Norte  2. 
Rodidores  552. 
Ronquillo  71. 

Rosario  68. 

Rosendo  Marqudz  525. 


INDEX 


593 


Rosita  99. 

Rubber  Country  561. 
Rusias  50. 

Sabancuy  569. 

Sabinal  51. 

Sabinas  99. 

Sacramento  Hill  25. 
Sacro  Monte  462. 
Sahuaripa  81. 

Salado  River  185. 
Salagua,  Bahia  de 
188. 

Salamanca  127. 

Salina  Cruz  556. 

Salinas  21. 

Salt  21,  189. 

Saltillo  12. 

Salvatierra  108. 
Samalayuca  24. 

San  Andres,  Cerro  de 
203. 

Chalchicomula 

496. 

— Bias  91. 

— Cayetano  144. 

— Cristobal  199,  483. 

las  Casas  559. 

Ecatepec  204. 

— Dimas  103. 

— Francisco  de  Lajas 
60. 

— Geronimo  554,  558. 

— Juan  de  las  Huertas 
198. 

Teotihuacan  425. 

, Village  of  554. 

del  Rio  103,  120, 

132. 

— Luis  de  la  Paz  18. 

Potosi  (City)  17. 

, State  of  20. 

— Marcos  (Fiesta)  46. 
Hacienda  184. 

— Marcial  78. 

— Miguel,  Fray  Juan 
de  228. 

River  76. 

Totlapam  459. 

— Nicolas  de  la  Can- 
tera  47. 

— Pedro  100. 

— Pedro  de  la  Canada 
118. 

Hills  18. 

— Vicente  Caves  79. 
Santa  Ana  213,  431. 
Santa  Anna,  Antonio 

Lopez  de  506. 

— Barbara  50,  67. 

— Catalina  Hacienda 

559. 

— Clara  114. 

— Eulalia,  Real  de  32. 

— Gertrudis,  84. 


— Lucrecia  550,  553. 

— Maria  Ocotlan  60. 
del  Rio  21. 

— Rosa  15. 

de  Viterbo  113. 

— - Rosalia  Springs  32. 
Santiago,  Rio  155,  160, 
179,  182. 

Santiago  Teneraca  60. 
Santo  Domingo  River 
76. 

Santuario  de  Ocotlan 
428. 

Sarapes  41,  529. ' 
Sayula,  Lago  de  183. 
Scorpions  93. 
Septentrion  Canon  62. 
Seri  Indians  80. 
Shameni  60. 

Sierra  de  Almoloya  63. 

— del  Carmen  15. 

— de  la  Cruz  64. 

— Madres  52. 

— Mojada  15. 

Mining  Region  34. 

— de  Nayarit  93. 

— de  la  Palma  51. 
Sihuatlan,  Rio  182. 
Silao  126,  137. 

Silver  King  50 i. 
Simojovel  563. 

Sinaloa,  Rio  89. 

— State  90. 

Soconusco  District  563. 
Sologuren  Collection 

538. 

Sombrerete  102. 

Sonora  News  Co.  50a, 
244e,  320. 

— State  77,  80. 

Soto  la  Marina  51. 
Suchiate  River  560. 
Suchitlan  de  las  Flores 

190. 

Sugar-cane  546. 
Sultepec  198. 

Tabares  460. 

Tabascans,  Battle  with 
562. 

Tabasco  State  560. 

— History  561. 

— , Rio  de  561. 
Taconah  Volcano  560. 
Tacotalpa  River  560. 
Tacuba,  Empalme  de 

122. 

Tajo  de  Nochistongo 
135. 

Tamaulipas  50;. 
Tamazula  103. 
Tamazunchale  49. 
Tamesi  River  50/. 
Tampico  11,  36,  48,  50. 
Tancitaro,  Pico  de  224. 


Tapachula  560. 

Tapana  559. 

Tapetillan  423. 
Tarahumare  Indians  30, 
57. 

— , Sierra  de  30. 
Tarasca  Mines  78. 
Tarascan  210,  211,  228. 
Tarascos  217,  218,  226. 
Taretan  213. 
Tarimangacho  224. 
Tarpon  50 i. 

Taxco  110,  457. 
Tecajic,  Nuestra  Senora 
de  198. 

Tecalco  Waterfall  465. 
Tecali  518. 

Tecalutla  517. 
Tecamachalco  525. 
Tecolote  44,  223. 
Tecoripa  83. 

Tecos  226. 

Tecpan  460. 

Tecuen  214. 

Tehuacan  495,  518,  526. 
Tehuanas  554. 
Tehuantepec  City  554. 

— Golfo  de  556. 

— Istmo  de  557. 

— River  554. 

Tejada,  S.  L.  de  505. 
Tejamanil  224. 
Temascaltepec  198. 
Tembleque,  F.  424. 
Temosachic  57. 
Tempoal  49. 
Tenancingo  198. 
Tenango  198. 
Teoloyucan  122,  136. 
Teotepec,  Rio  459. 
Teotihuacan,  San  Juan 

425. 

Teotitlan  542. 

Tepeaca  525. 

Tepehuala  459. 
Tepehuanes  60,  104 
Tepenecas  43. 
Tepeyahualco  501. 
Tepezala  48. 

Tepic  City  91. 

— Territorio  de  91. 
Tepoxtepec  435. 
Tepozotlan  136. 
Tequezquitengo  456. 
Tequila  182. 

Terminos,  Laguna  de 

569. 

Terreros  P.  J.  R.  295, 
423. 

Tetecala  456. 

Tetela  del  Rio  459. 
Tetillas  44. 

Tetzcozinco  500. 
Texcoco  199,  499. 
Teziutlan  518. 


594 


INDEX 


Tiazpanito,  Lago  de 

182. 

Tiburon  Island  80. 
Tierra  Blanca  547. 
Titian  215. 

Tizapan  158. 
Tlachiqueros  498. 
Tlacolula  de  Matamoros 
529,  536. 

Tlacomulco  Volcano 
560. 

Tlacotdlpam  483. 
Tlacotep4c  525. 
Tlahuicas  43,  437. 
Tlalnepantla  137. 
Tlalpujahua  224. 
Tlaniacas  463. 

Tlaxcala  427. 

— , Senado  de  431. 

— , State  of  428. 
Tlaxcalan  Nation  429. 
Tlaxcaltecas  43. 
Tlayacopan  Mts.  456. 
Todos  Santos  86. 
Toliman  120. 

Toltecs  134,  426. 
Toluca  194. 

— , El  Nevado  de  198, 
199. 

— Range  193. 
Toluquilla  159. 
Tornasopo  48. 
Tomatlan,  Rio  182. 
Tomellin  527. 
Tomistlahuacan  459. 
Tonald  559. 

Tonihta  185. 
Topolobampo  62. 
Torre,  De  la  194. 
Torreon  35. 

Torres  78. 

Tortoise-shell  570. 
Tortuaba  79. 

Totolopan  456. 
Totonacs  426. 
Tresguerras,  Eduardo 
de  127. 

Tres  Jagueyes  524. 

135. 

Trinidad,  La  460. 
Trokeck  565. 

Tronic  of  Cancer  16. 
Trujillo,  Torcuato  203. 
Tsipnhki  214. 

Tuape  76. 

Tubars  60. 

Tuito,  Rio  182. 

Tula  134. 

Tulancingo  423,  424. 
Tule,  Santa  Maria  del 
536. 

Tulija  River  563. 
Tunal,  Rio  100. 
Tuscacuesco  188. 
Tuscueca  157. 


Tusupan  481. 

Tuxpan  50^,  183. 

— River  184. 

Tuxtepec  483. 

— Plan  de  483. 

Tuxtla  Gutierrez  559, 

568. 

Tzacualli  425. 
Tzararacua  229. 
Tzintzumzan  213,  215. 
Tzotzil  565. 

Ulmecas  565. 

Union  de  Tula,  Lagode 
182. 

Urique  River  61, 
Uruapan  227. 
Usumacinta  River  560. 
Uva  14. 

Valenciana,  La  144. 
Valladolid  202. 

Valle  Nacional  547. 
Vampires  552. 

Vanilla  50i. 

Vasquez  de  Coronado 
82. 

Vera  Cruz  469. 

Ave.  de  la  Indepen- 
dence 474. 

— de  laLibertad474. 

— de  Zaragoza  475. 
Bay  and  Harbor  477. 
Benito  Jr  arez  Light- 
house 474. 

— Monument  475. 
Capilla  de  Nuestra 
Senora  de  la  Esca- 
lera  477. 

— de  la  Pastora  474. 
Castillo  de  San  Juan 

de  Ulua  477. 
Cementerio  General 

476. 

Church  of  Belen  474. 
— El  Buen  Viaje  474. 
— San  Francisco  474. 
— El  Santo  Cristo 
474. 

Climate  and  Weather 
Indications  471. 
Comandancia  Militar 

477. 

Comandante  Militar 
474. 

Creoles  475. 

Fruits  476. 

Grijalva,  Juan  de  478. 
History  478. 

Hotels  469-70. 
Huachinango  475. 
Isla  de  los  Sacrificios 
477. 

Light  House  477. 
Lorencillo  479. 


Vera  Cruz  : 

Mercado  475. 

Nortes  471. 

Palacio  Municipal 
474. 

Parochial  Church  473 . 
Paseo  de  los  Cocos 

474. 

Plaza  de  la  Constitu- 
cion  473. 

— del  Muelle  474. 
Porfirio  Diaz  Park 

475. 

Railway  Stations  469. 
State  of  Vera  Cruz 
480. 

Statue  to  M.  G.  Za- 
mora 474. 

Steamship  Lines  471. 

. Walks  474. 

Zopilotes  474. 

Veta  Colorada  67. 
Vicario,  Leona  13. 
Victoria,  Ciudad  11,  51. 
Viesca  15. 

Villa  Alvarez  529. 
Villalobos  126. 

Vino  de  Membrillo  203. 
Virgen  de  Guadalupe 
393. 

— de  Ocotlan  428. 

— del  Rayo  66. 

— de  los  Remedios  191. 
Vishalika  92. 

Volcan  de  Ceboruco  91. 

— de  Colima  186. 

— de  Santa  Marla  554, 
560. 

Ward  Line  xxxiv. 
Winner’s  Bridge  494. 
Woodpeckers  58. 

Xalapa  503. 

Xanicho  213. 
Xaracuaro  214. 
Xicalanco  481. 

Xico,  Salto  de  506. 
Xicotencatl  431. 
Xinantecatl  199. 
Xochicoatlan  424. 
Xochimilco,  247,  350. 

Yacatas  215. 

Yaqui  Indians  74, 81 , 82. 
Yaqui  River  78. 
Yautepec  456. 
Yellow-tail  5Q j,  79. 
Yuca  547. 

Yucatan,  Gulf  State 
582. 

— Peninsula  572. 

Becal  574. 

Calkini  574. 

Cape  Catoche  583. 


INDEX 


595 


Yucatan: 

Cenotes  570,  582. 
Chac-Mool  215,  305, 
582. 

Chemax  584. 
Chichen-Itza  581. 
Chicxulub  574. 
Chochola  574. 

Cholul  574. 

Chuburna  574. 

Citas  581. 

Citbalche  574. 
Climate  577. 

Conkal  574. 

Cozumel  Island  583. 
Esperanza  574. 
Fauna  and  Flora  583. 
Granada  574. 
Hacienda  of  Mucuy- 
che  583. 

Halacho  574. 
Hamacas  584. 
Hammocks  584. 
Hecelchakan  574. 
Henequen  583. 
History  578. 

Isla  Mujeres  583. 
Maxcanu  574. 
Mayapan  579. 


Yucatan  : 

Mayas  579. 

Merida  574. 

Meztizas  579. 
Montejo,  Francisco 
575. 

Muna  580. 

Pocboc  574. 

Pomuch  574. 
Progreso  572. 
Quintana  Roo  582. 
Railway  stations 
(Merida)  574. 
Ruined  Cities  580. 
San  Bernardo  574. 

— Ignacio  574. 

— Jose  574. 
Sisal-hemp  583. 
Tenabo  574. 

Tihoo  575. 

Turkeys  582. 

Uman  574. 

Uxmal  580. 
Water-caves  583. 
Yaxche  574. 

Yugos,  Los  185. 
Yurecuaro  149. 
Yuririapundaro,  Lake 
145. 


Yuyuan  214. 

Zacapu  223. 

Zacatecas  City  38. 

— State  44. 

Zacatula  460. 

Zachila  542. 
Zacuatilpam  423. 
Zamora  149. 

Zanatepec  559. 

Zape  104. 

Zapotlan  183,  187. 

— , Lago  de  183. 

Zarco,  Francisco  101. 
Zempoalla  424. 
Zempoaltepec  541. 
Zempoaltepetl  541. 
Zimapan  423. 
Zinapecuaro  225. 
Zinzimeo  201. 

Zirahuen  226. 

Zirate  224. 

Zitacuaro  200. 
Zocoalco,  Lago  de  183. 
Zona  Libre  24. 

Zoque  565. 

Zoyacingo  465. 

Zula,  Rio  155. 
Zumpango  198,  199. 


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tion it,  he  will  receive  special  attention. 


HOTEL  REGIS 

THE  LARGEST  AND  MOST  MODERN  HOTEL  IN  MEXICO 

In  the  heart  of  the 
Business  District 

Facing  the  beautiful 
Avenida  Juarez 

MEXICO  CITY 

MEXICO 

SAM  H.  LACKLAND, 
Manager 

(formerly  of  the  Statler  Hotels) 

All  the  comforts  and 
conveniences  of  the  most 
modern  American  Hotel 

500  Rooms  450  Baths 

Sunny  rooms,  hot  and  cold 
water,  telephones,  eleva- 
tors, ticket  and  telegraph  offices,  steam  laundry,  barber 
shop,  information  bureau,  etc.  Starting  point  for  sightseeing 
tours.  THE  REGIS  Turkish,  Russian  and  electric  baths, 
and  the  big  swimming  pool  are  the  finest  in  the  Republic. 

CAFE  and  RESTAURANT  SERVICE  UNEXCELLED 
CABARET  DANCING 


RATES:  Rooms  without  bath,  from  4 pesos  a day. 

Rooms  with  bath,  from  5 to  20  pesos  a day. 


Make  the  palatial  Regis  your  headquarters  while  in  Mexico. 
Write  your  letters  and  get  your  mail  there.  You’ll  find  all 
your  discriminating  friends  there. 


■ ♦I  IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIITIIIIIII  MEXICO  CITY  [IllHlliliW 


HOTEL  DE  GENEVE 


Mexico’s  Finest,  Largest  and  Best  Hotel 
250  Guest  Rooms  and  Baths 
American  — Modern  — Fireproof 


Every  Refinement  necessary  to  the 
Travelers'  Comfort 


Delicious  Food;  Pure  Artesian  Water; 
Tennis  Court;  Childrens’  Playground; 
Flower-decked  Patio ; Garage. 

Amid  Healthy,  Beautiful  Surroundings. 
Near  the  Business  Centre,  The  Embassies, 
The  Railway  Station,  Etc. 


Tramcars  to  all  parts  of  the  Capital 


Under  the  personal  supervision  of  an  American 
Hotel  Manager  of  International  Repute 

MODERATE  RATES 

See  page  23 ’2. 


Sulphurous,  Healing  Springs  at  Cuautlajor. 

The  tonic  qualities  of  these  springs  are  unequa- 
lled: A natural  cure  for  rheumatism,  skin  diseases 
and  kindred  ills. 

Ideally  and  beautifully  situated  within  a green 
oasis,  within  5 hours  ride  of  the  Capital  and 
within  20  minutes  rive  from  dthe  beautiful. 

San  Diego  Hotel,  * tamo 

the  best  hotel  in  the  country 

Hotel  guestsmay  enjoy  swimming,  riding,  tennis, 
etc as  well  as  an  excellent  cuisine.  1 


SANBORNS 

HEADQUARTERS  FOR  AMERICANS  IN  MEXICO 
» 

Drugs  and  Sundries,  Novelties, 
Lunch  and  Tea  Rooms 

We  u ill  be  pleased  to  send  you  a descriptive  booklet  of  our 
historic  and  beautiful  building.  Send  us  your  address. 


21  SANBORNS 

ill MEX,C0 


AVE.  MADERO  4 


MEXICO,  D.  F. 


The  Most  Charming 
Tea  Room  in  Mexico 


The  beauty,  however,  is  more  than  apparent,  for 
not  only  is  the  environment  pleasing,  but  service 
and  music  are  of  foremost  consideration. 


Sanborns’  breakfasts,  luncheons  and  refresh- 
ments, in  this  beautiful  patio  Tea  Room  are 
world  renowned.  The  headquarters  of  the 
temporary  resident  as  well  as  the  meeting-place 
of  the  Capital’s  elite  is  Sanborns’  “Casa  de  los 
Azulejos.” 


21  SANBORNS 
MEXICO 


Special  Balcony 
Grill  Service 

The  Dansants  in 
Ball  Room 


HOTEL  GUARDIOLA 

Ave.  F.  I.  Madero  No.  5 
MEXICO  CITY,  MEX. 

LITERALLY  IN  THE  HEART  OF  MEXICO  CITY 

The  home  for  those  who  want 
Comfort  and  Service 

“ GUARDIOLA”  RATES 

Rooms  without  bath  ( for  one  ) $3.00,  $5.00  and  $6.00 
Rooms  without  bath  ( for  two  ) . $6.00  and  $8.00 

Rooms  with  bath  (for  one)  ....  $8.00  and  up 
Parlor  Suites  . . $10.00  and  up  (Mexican  Money) 

ABOUT  RESERVATIONS 

Reservations  should  state  the  kind  of  room 
desired,  day  and  date  of  arrival.  If  a room 
at  the  rate  requested  is  not  available,  a room 
nearest  that  rate  will  be  reserved. 

If  the  service  you  get  at  our  hotel  is  not  good, 
thoroughly  satisfactory  service,  we  want  to 
know  it  — and  we  pledge  you  our  efforts 
toward  making  it  so. 

Scrupulously  clean , commodious  rooms. 

SPECIAL  ATTENTION  TO  TOURISTS 
ENGLISH  SPOKEN 

S\Cexican-j4merican  ^TTCanagement 

F.  de  P.  CARRAL,  Manager 


Hotel  Princess 

AVE.  HIDALGO  NO.  59 

(formerly  Hombres  Ilustres) 

FACING  THE  ALAMEDA  (NORTH  SIDE) 

Mexico  City,  Mexico 

The  finest , best  equipped , modern 
American  Hotel  in  Mexico 

Strictly  high  class.  Perfect  Service. 

Moderate  Rales 

Apartments,  singly  or  en  suite,  with  private 
baths.  Steam  heat,  elevator,  telephones, 
hot  and  cold  running  water.,  in  every 
room. 

The  best  location  in  Mexico  City.  In  the 
heart  of  everything.  Opposite  the  beauti- 
ful Alameda,  with  its  sunshine,  music 
and  flowers. 

Restaurant  and  Grill  Room.  French  cuisine. 
Efficient  American  management. 


English,  Spanish,  French , 
German,  Italian  Spoken 


IMPERIAL  HOTEL 

CITY  OF  MEXICO 


American  Oicnership 

Member  American  Chamber  of  Commerce  of  Mexico 

ROOM  and  BATH  (outside),  $2. 50  U.S.  Cy.  per  day 

RESTAURANT  — Special  Rates  for  tourists,  $15.00 
V.  S.  Cy.  per  week  (3  meals) 

AMERICAN  CUISINE  AND  BAR 

FINEST  LOBBY  IX  THE  REPT'BLIC 


HOTEL  A.JVSOJVIA. 

A.'Oe.  Ayuntamienlo  JVo.  133 

Mexico  ciry,  Mexico 

Telephones:  Ericsson,  88-86  and  10-4-04 

Mexicana,  5-87  and  5-88  Juarez 

A NEW,  THOROUGHLY  EQUIPPED,  HIGH-CLASS 

'Residential  Hotel 

In  the  heart  of  the  city,  on  a quiet  avenue  with  magnificent 
views  over  the  valley  to  the  distant  volcanos. 

Sanitary,  newly  furnished  and  the  acme  of  comfort.  Large, 
airy,  sunny  rooms,  singly  with  or  without  bath,  or  in  suites 
of  two,  three  or  four  rooms  with  private  dining  room  and 
kitchen.  The  only  modern  hotel  of  its  kind  in  the  city.  Fire- 
places, telephones  and  many  other  American  refinements. 

'Perfect  Service 

Excellent  grill  room  and  restaurant.  Reasonable  prices. 
Special  rates  for  a long  stay. 

£.  ELIS'OJVDO,  'Proprietor 

ENGLISH  SPOKEN  IN  ALL  DEPARTMENTS 


The  Charm  of  the  Old  and  the  Beauty  of  the  New 

CHAPULTEPEC  HEIGHTS 

(LOMAS  DE  CHAPULTEPEC) 


The  New  Residence  District  of 
Mexico’s  Ancient  Capital 

From  these  Heights  visitors  and 
residents  look  down  upon  the 
Valley  of  Mexico,  which  Bayard 
Taylor  declared  to  have  only 
one  rival  — the  Vale  of  Cashmere 


Mexican  International  Trust  Company,  S.  A. 
(j)  Calle  Condesa  8,  City  of  Mexico 

0 


The  Charm  of  the  Old  and  the  Beauty  of  the  New 


ALTAVISTA  AND 
SAN  ANGEL  INN 


Mexico  City’s  Most  Beautiful  and 
Healthful  Suburb 

This  Wayside  Inn,  midway  be- 
tween California  and  the  Equa- 
tor, surrounded  by  bungalows 
and  gardens,  a scene  of  historic 
interest,  is  open  to  Quests 
all  the  year 


Mexican  International  Trust  Company,  S.  A. 
Calle  Condesa  8,  City  of  Mexico 


HOE 


HOTEL  MORELOS 

CUERNAVACA,  MEXICO 

An  internationally  famous  hotel  in  the  most  picturesque 
and  delightfully  romantic  town  in  the  republic. 

The  rendezvous  of  Mexico  City's  social  and  diplomatic 

life. 

The  starting  point  for  the  Cacahuamilpa  Caverns  and 
a host  of  other  wonderful  scenic  spots.  Autos  for  trips  to  any 
part  of  the  country. 

The  Morelos  is  noted  for  its  big,  cool,  clean,  comfortable 
rooms,  its  lovely  flower-decked  patio,  for  its  excellent  meals, 
perfect  service,  and  reasonable  charges. 

It  is  the  only  American  hotel  in  Cuernavaca,  and  ladies 
traveling  alone  choose  it  because  it  is  conducted  by  an  American 
manager  of  wide  experience  who  knows  how  to  cater  to  per- 
sons of  taste  and  refinement. 

Facing  the  pretty  Jardin  Morelos,  and  the  Central  Plaza. 
Music  by  the  Military  Band.  Near  the  Borda  Garden,  Cortes 
Palace,  and  other  noted  places. 

No  tourist  should  leave  Mexico  without  seeing  Cuernavaca 
and  The  Morelos  Hotel ; both  celebrated  for  their  tranquility  and 

charm. 

F.  T.  WEESNER.  Proprietor 


HOE 


HOTEL 

SAN 

FRANCIS 

Guadalajara, 

Mexico 


The  Newest,  Finest 
and  Best  American 
Hotel  in  the  Republic 


/ Every  Refinement  — Every  Comfort.  Delicious 
^ Food.  Pure  Water.  Wide  Views.  Flowers. 

► Sunlight.  Elevators. 

. Wooden  Floors. 


i 

\ 


i 

i 

i 


4 


4 


► 


Tivo  Minutes  Walk  from  the  Station 

Large,  exquisitely  clean,  sunny  rooms  from 
$2.00,  American  money,  a day 
With  Bath,  from  $2.50  a day 

SPECIAL  RATES  FOR  A LONG  STAY 

Under  the  personal  supervision  of  an  experienced 
American  manager 


“ No  better  climate  anywhere, 

No  better  hotel  in  Mexico.” 


THE  AZTEC  LAND 

AYE.  MADERO  24,  MEXICO  CITY 


Recognized  Headquarters  for  Antiques, 
Art  Objects  and  Mexican  Curios 


Indian  Blankets 
Pure  Linen  Drawnwork 
Hand-carved  Leather  Nov- 
elties 

Spanish  Lace  and  Fans 
Fine  Mexican  Opals  and 
Turquoises 

Cameos,  Bead  Necklaces 
Velvets,  Damasks,  etc. 
Photographs,  Views 
Mantillas,  Mantones 
Colonial  Furniture 
Antique  Jewelry- 
Antique  Silver 
Antique  Candlesticks  and 
Brasses 

Talavera  Pottery 
Archaeological  Relics 
Old  Saltillo  Sarapes 
Old  Paintings 
Engravings 

Spanish,  English,  French,  Ger- 
man, Czech  spoken.  Permanent 
Exhibit  of  Mexican 
Art  and  Craft  prod- 
ucts. Our  show- 
rooms are  one  of  the 
sights  of  Mexico. 

Generallnformation 
Bureau 

LADIES’  REST  ROOMS 


Our  Name  is  an 
Unquestioned  Guarantee 


English  Book  Store 


jQa  l^erla  Jewelry  Store 

Diener  Hermanos,  Sues.  S.  en  C. 

F.  /.  c FYCadero,  3<$ 

oFYCexico  AhCexico 

FINE  DIAMOND  JEWELRY,  PEARLS,  ART 
BRONZES,  GEMS,  CHIME  CLOCKS,  SOUVENIRS, 
SWISS  AND  AMERICAN  WATCHES 


Irreproachable  Quality  cJ "Moderate  Prices 


m 


ANTIQUES 

SOUVENIRS 

CURIOS 


Drawn  Linens,  Zarapes, 
Paintings,  Statuary, 

Medallions,  Miniatures,  Decorations, 
Beautiful  and  Dainty  Porcelains, 

Splendid  Ivory  Carvings,  Idols, 

Superb  Oriental  Bronzes,  Arms, 

Richly  Carved  Furniture,  Gems, 

Quaint  Jewels,  Opals,  Turquoises, 

Massive  Silver  Pieces,  Tea  Sets, 

Spanish  Lace,  Fans,  Mantillas, 

Coin  Collections,  Pottery, 

Toltec  and  Aztec  Relics, 

Photos,  Guide  Books,  Interpreters. 

The  finest  assortment  of  colored  post  cards  in  Mexico. 

Our  Show  Rooms  are  as  interesting  as  the  National  Museum. 

Goods  delivered  anywhere. 

PRICES  MODERATE.  VALUES  EXCEPTIONAL. 


Sonora  News  Company 

AVE.  MADERO  17  CITY  OF  MEXICO 

( under  the  Hotel  Iturbide  ) 

Other  Stores  and  News  Depots  at 

Nogales,  Arizona  Tampico,  Mex.  Monterey,  Mex. 

Rincon  Antonio,  Mex.  Puebla,  Mex.  Laredo,  Texas 

San  Geronimo,  Mex.  VeraCruz,  Mex.  Guaymas,  Mex. 

Cordoba,  Mex. 


HUGO  BREHME 

MEXICO 


Av.  Ginco  de  Mayo  No.  27,  Room  36, 
MEXICO  CITY 

( corner  of  Cinco  de  Mayo  and  Bolivar  Street ) 

Apartado  postal  ( P.  O.  Box)  2253 
Phone  Ericsson  7755 

THE  MOST  BEAUTIFUL  VIEWS  OF  MEXICO 
Dr.  Fischer’s  Famous  Water-Color  Pictures 

Large  Collection  of  Artistic  Postcards 
ENLARGEMENTS 


OF  COURSE! 


you  brought  your 


KODAK 

TO  PICTURESQUE  MEXICO 


Let  us  do  your  Finishing 
and  Enlarging 


We  carry  a complete  line  of 
Kodaks  and  European  Cameras  as 
well  as  all  accessories  for 
the  Amateur 


American  Photo  Supply  Co.,S.  A. 

MEXICO,  D.  F. 

Ave.  Madero  40  P.  0.  Box  1349 


Printing  in  all  its  Branches 


Stationery  and  Office  Supplies 

American  and  English  Magazines 
and  Newspapers 

Latest  Fiction 

English- Spanish  Text-books, 
Phrase  Books,  Dictionaries 

Ask  for  our  complete  list  of  BOOKS  ON  MEXICO  — 
Guides,  Maps,  Business  Directories,  etc. 

We  maintain  the  largest  English  Book  Department  in 
Mexico 


El  Palacio  de  Hierro,  S.  A. 

( The  Iron  Palace ) 

Corner  of  Capuchinas  and  5th  of  Febrero  Streets 

MEXICO  CITY,  MEXICO 


The  Finest  and  Largest  Department  Store 
in  the  Republic 

Tourists  Headquarters  for  Outfits  of  Every  Description 

Dresses,  downs,  Jouvin’s  Gloves,  Hosiery,  Socks,  Corsets, 
Shirts,  Pa rasols,  Shoes,  Umbrellas,  Hats,  Toilet  Requisites, 
Spanish  Lace  Mantillas,  Paradise  Feathers,  Mexican 
Leather  Work,  Zarapes,  Pottery,  Drawn  Work,  Onyx 
Curios,  Toys,  Trunks,  House  Furnishings,  and  everything 
usually  found  in  a high  class,  modern  Department  Store. 

TOURIST  TRADE  A SPECIALTY 


Moderate  Prices 


Perfect  Service 


TARDAN  HATS 


FAMOUS  THROUGHOUT  THE  AMERICAS  FOR 

Fine  Panama  Hats 
Mexican  Sombreros 
Straw  Hats 
Felt  Hats 

Jl gents  for  John  Stetson's  Celebrated  jdmerican  Hats 

Hats  for  Men,  Women  and  Children 
in  infinite  variety,  style  and  price. 

Our  Panama  Hats  are  the  finest  made;  beautiful  in 
texture  and  finish.  Much  cheaper  than  in  the  United 
States.  Wear  one  home  as  a souvenir  of  Mexico. 

English  Spoken 

OUR  WONDERFUL  SILVER  AND  GOLD  BRAIDED 

Mexican 
Sombreros 

are  marvels  of 
decorative  beauty. 

Tardan  quality  is  unexcelled.  Tardan  guarantees  everything  he  sells. 
Tardan  prices  are  right.  All  the  American  tourists  know,  and  like,  Tardan. 
All  the  leading  hatters  in  Mexico  sell  the  Tardan  products. 

“From  Sonora  to  Yucatan  they  wear  Sombreros  Tardan” 

TARDAN  HERMANOS 

Plaza  de  la  Constitucion,  5 and  7,  MEXICO  CITY 
MEXICO 


Tourist  Outfitters 

Shirts  Collars 

Hats  Shoes 

Clothing  Ties 

and 

a host  of  dressy  things  for  men  and 
women  of  taste  and  discrimination. 

American  Specialties 

We  have  just  what  you  want  in  the 
right  style  at  the  right  price. 

( >ur  stock  is  of  the  finest  quality  and 

of  the  latest  New  York  design. 

* 

( >ur  name  is  an  unquestioned  guar- 
antee of  excellence. 

Sonora  News  Company 

Ave.  Madero  17  Under  Hotel  Iturbide 

MEXICO  CITY,  MEXICO 


wmmmmmmmm  tmmm  iwtm 


Travelers'  Accessories 


, Valises  and  Suit  Cases;  Gillette 
Safety  Razors  and  Blades;  Shav- 
ing Soaps  and  Brushes;  Safety 
Razor  Stroppers;  Pipes; 
Fountain  Pens 

French  and  American  Perfumes; 
Toilet  Water;  Cosmetics;  Combs; 
Brushes;  Mirrors;  Purses  and 
Leather  Novelties 

A Full  Line  of  Toilet  Articles  of  All  Kinds 


CIGARS  AND  CIGARETTES 


SONORA  NEWS  COMPANY 

Ave.  Madero  No.  17  — Under  Hotel  Iturbide 
CITY  OF  MEXICO 


Mexico  City  Banking  Corporation,  S.A. 

AVENIDA  FRANCISCO  I.  MADERO  NO.  14 
P.  O.  Box  3 Bis. 

MEXICO,  D.  F. 

MEXICO 


Eman  L.  Beck.  President 
F.  J.  Dunkerley,  Vice  President 
John  Clausen,  Vice  President 
Gwynne  Pool,  Costlier 
A.  B.  Carrillo,  Asst.  Cashier 
C.  J.  Rittenhouse,  Auditor 
Eduardo  Baz,  Secretary 

Foreign  Department : 


Cable  Address:  "MEXCITBANK 

CODES 

Western  Union 
A.  B.  C.  4th  and  5th  Editions 
Lieber’s 
Bentley’s 

Peterson’s  International 
Genaro  S.  Moreno,  Asst.  Manager 


We  invite  accounts  of  Banks  and  Bankers,  Firms, 
Corporations  and  Individuals 


FUNCTIONS  AND  FACILITIES 


BANKING 

DEPARTMENT 


CREDIT 

DEPARTMENT 


COLLECTION 

DEPARTMENT 


FOREIGN 

DEPARTMENT 


Transacts  a general  commercial  banking 
business;  extends  credit  to  commercial 
houses  and  makes  loans  on  collateral ; 
invites  deposit  accounts. 

Furnishes  information  in  regard  to  the 
financial  responsibility  of  individuals  and 
business  houses  throughout  the  world. 

Offers  every  facility  for  the  expeditious 
handling  of  clean  and  documentary  bills 
on  all  points  in  the  Republic.  Our  terms 
cheerfully  furnished  upon  request. 

Undertakes  overseas  banking  transactions 
of  every  description ; accepts  drafts  for 
the  purpose  of  financing  shipments  to  or 
from  the  Republic  of  Mexico;  issues  com- 
mercial and  travelers’  letters  of  credit ; 
buys  and  sells  foreign  bank  notes,  gold 
and  silver  coin. 


FULL  DETAILS  OF  THE  FACILITIES  OFFERED  BY  US 
THROUGH  OUR  VARIOUS  DEPARTMENTS 
WILL  BE  SENT  ON  REQUEST 
Members: 

AMERICAN  BANKERS  ASSOCIATION 
MEXICO  CITY  CLEARING  HOUSE  ASSOCIATION 


BANK  OF  MONTREAL 

( Established  in  1817 ) 

CAPITAL $27,250,000.00 

RESERVE  FUND  . . . 27,250,000.00 

TOTAL  ASSETS  . . . 653,869,000.00 

Every  description  of  general  banking  and 
exchange  business  transacted 

HEAD  OFFICE:  MONTREAL 


Sir  Vincent  Meredith,  Bart  Sir  Charles  Gordon,  C.  B.  E. 

President  Vice-President 

Sir  Frederick  Williams-Taylor 
General  Manager 


Branches  and  agencies  throughout  Canada  and 
Newfoundland,  and  abroad  at: 

LONDON  PARIS  NEW  YORK 

47  Threadneedle  Street  6 Place  Vendome  64  Wall  Street 

9 Waterloo  Place,  Pall  Mall 

SAN  FRANCISCO 

( British  American  Bank  ) 

CORRESPONDENTS  THROUGHOUT  THE  WORLD 


MEXICO  CITY  BRANCH: 

Ave.  Cinco  de  Mayo  2,  Edificio  “ La  Mutua  ” 

f Mutual  Life  Building) 


H.  WELDON,  Manager 


LATIN-AMERICAN  ADVERTISING 
SERVICE,  S.  A. 

Stanley  W.  Sotcher,  Apartado  (P.  O.  Box)  5162 
John  C.  Kempvan  Ee.,  Jr.  Cable  Address,  “OBRAC.”  Code,  Bentley 

GANTE  14,  MEXICO  CITY,  MEXICO 

==========  BIG  BUSINESS  =~ 

| can  be  secured  in  Mexico  through  adapted 
advertising. 

We  will  plan  your  campaign,  draw  it  up  and 
place  it — all  without  extra  expense  to  you — so 
that  in  language  and  character  it  will  be  pre- 
cisely adapted  to  the  particular  public  you  desire 
to  reach. 

LATIN-AMERICAN 
ADVERTISING  SERVICE,  S.  A. 

Gante  14  Mexico  City  Mexico. 


EVERY  VISITOR  FINDS 

Who's  who  in  Mexico, 

Vt  hat's  doing  in  Mexico, 

Current  facts  about  Mexico, 

latest  statistics  of  activities  in 
Mexico, 

Interesting  articles  on  mining, 
oil,  farming  and  industrial 
activities  in  Mexico, 

BY  READING 

THE  PULSE  OF  MEXICO 

“ Mexico’s  Monthly  Review  ” 

On  Trains,  Boats,  at  all  News-Stands,  Hotels,  etc., 
throughout  the  Republic.  Send  a copy  to  your  friends. 
\ i si  tors  always  welcome  at  our  office: 

Gante  14  Mexico  City  Mexico. 


p 

- - ^ — y,  - 

El  Pulso  de  Mexico 

j 

> 

The  Pulse 

•< 

of  Mexico 

A 

“ Mexico’s 

A 

Monthly  Review ” 

i 

k 

— ^ ^ ^ 

J 

EL  UNIVERSAL 

The  Leading  Spanish  Newspaper  of  Mexico 

Presents  every  morning  the  Latest  Political, 
Commercial,  Social  and  General 
News  of  the  day 

Founder  and  Publisher:  ING.  FELIX  F.  PALAVICINI 

Subscription  Price:  One  Year,  $26.  Six  Months,  $15. 
THE  COMPANIA  PERIODISTICA  NACIONAL,S.A. 

PUBLISHES 

EL  UNIVERSAL, 

Mexico’s  Greatest  Daily  Newspaper. 

EL  UNIVERSAL  GRAFICO, 

Mexico’s  Most  Popular  Evening  Newspaper 
EL  UNIVERSAL  ILUSTRADO, 

Mexico’s  Finest  Illustrated  Weekly. 

EL  UNIVERSAL  TAURINO, 

The  Bull  Fighters’  Chronicle. 

The  most  authoritative  mediums  for  news  and 
information  of  Mexico  and  the  outside  world. 

Members  of  the  Associated  Press 

Specia1  articles  on  Mexican  Commercial  and 
Political  Subjects 

The  aforementioned  newspapers  are  the 
best  advertising  mediums  in  the 
Mexican  Republic 

Address  all  communications  to  the 

Calle  de  Iturbide  No.  11,  ( P.  O.  Box  909  ) 
MEXICO  CITY,  MEXICO 


AMERICAN 

CHAMBER  OF  COMMERCE 
OF  MEXICO 


A membership  in  this  Chamber  is  a 
necessary  part  of  the  equipment  of  an 
American  house  doing  Business  in  Mexico. 
The  Chamber  has  702  members,  of  whom 
450  are  American  manufacturers,  ex- 
porters and  importers,  using  our  service 
of  advice  and  information. 

We  shall  be  very  glad  to  correspond  with 
houses  in  the  United  States  who  want  to 
enter  the  Mexican  field  directly  or  through 
an  agent  or  representative,  or  who  want 
to  buy  Mexican  products  of  any  sort. 


The  Organization  is  a Service  Station  to 

American  Exporters 
in  the  Mexican  Field 


American  Chamber  of  Commerce 
of  Mexico,  S.  C.  L. 

Cor.  Motolinia  and  Ave.  Madero 
Apartado  82  Bis 
MEXICO  CITY,  MEXICO 


The  Finest  Cigars 
in  Mexico 


BALSA  HERMANOS,  “La  Prueba”  Factory, 


Every  discriminating  traveler  knows  the  famous  Flores  *4^ 
de  Balsa,  Coronas,  Coronitas  (half  Coronas)  Nacionales  de  SS2 
Balsa,  and  other  celebrated  products  of  this  house,  and 
lovers  of  good  cigars  always  smoke  them. 

The  Nacionales  de  Balsa  Hermanos  (with  an  Aztec  ® 
Calendar  Stone  band)  are  made  specially  for  the  American  (jJ^i 
who  likes  a fine,  mild,  fragrant  cigar  at  a reasonable  price. 


The  La  Prueba  Factory  of  Balsa  Hermanos  is  the 

largest  in  the  Republic.  The  tobacco  is  grown  on  their 
own  vast  plantations  and  only  the  very  finest  and  most  gjg? 
fragrant  leaves  and  fillers  are  made  up  into  their  matchless 
brands.  ' |j 

As  Balsa  Hermanos  Cigars  are  imitated  by  unscrupulous  xpe 
dealers,  our  foreign  friends  are  earnestly  requested  to  see 
that  the  cigars  they  buy  are  the  true  Balsa  product,  and  By 
that  each  bears  the  name  of  Balsa  Hermanos,  Vera  Cruz,  (jfjj) 
Ver.  (state  of  Vera  Cruz),  Mexico.  2J5 


For  Sale  Everywhere  in  the  Mexican  Republic 


ALWAYS 

Bear  the  Label: 


Vera  Cruz,  Ver.  (state  of  Vera  Cruz) 
(Established  in  1864) 


EL  BUEN  TONO,  S.  A. 


Alfonso  XIII 
Canarios 
Canela  Pura 
Caprichos 
Chorritos 
Congresistas 
Costenos 
Covadonga 
Elegantes 

Flores  de  Arroz 
Franceses 
Gardenias 
Habaneros 
Margaritas 
Mascot  a 

Reina  Victoria 
Sabrosos 
Sublimes 
Superiores 

De  Luxe  and  Grand  Luxe  Cigarettes: 

Mejores,  Covadonga  Arroz,  Parisiense  Soberbios 
Excelentes  Habanos,  Primores,  Camelias,  Eclipses. 


The  Largest  Cigarette  Factory 
in  Mexico 


Grand  Prize 
Paris,  1900 


Grand  Prize 
St.  Louis,  Mo.,  1904 


Leading  Brands : 


Special  Prices  For  Export 


Main  Offices  and  Factory : 

PLAZA  SAN  JUAN,  MEXICO  CITY 


Mexican  Cigars 

For  a Quarter  of  a Century  the  three 
most  popular  brands  of 
cigars  have  been 

LA  RICA  HOJA 

LA  VIOLETA  and 

LA  SIN  RIVAL 


Sold  throughout  the  Republic 


FACTORIES: 

ORIZABA  AND  SAN  ANDRES  TUXTLA 
MEXICO  CITY  AGENCY: 

Avenida  5 de  Mayo  39  E. 

( under  Hotel  Gillow  ) 


GUSTAVO  MAYER  Y CIA 

Apartado  ( P.  O.  Box  ) 49 

ORIZABA,  Ver. 

Ask  for  a “SIN  RIVAL”  cigar  or  a “B.B.B  ” 
( three  B ) cigar,  and  you  will  get  the  best. 


1 MEXICO  TRAMWAYS  m 
I COMPANY  If 

0®  ( COMPANIA  DE  TRANVIAS  DE  MEXICO,  S.  A. ) 0® 


To  Visitors  to  Mexico  City 


The  following  places  of  £reat  historical  interest  in 
the  neighborhood  of  Mexico  City  can  be  reached 
in  safety  and  comfort  by  the  suburban  trams  of 
this  Company: 


Atzcapotzalco 

Chapultepec 

Churubusco 

Coyoacan 

Country  Club 

Guadalupe 

Ixtacalco 

Ixtapalapa 

La  Estrella  ( Hill  of  the  Star 
La  Venta  ( El  Desierto  de  los 
Leones ) 


Pedre^al  — Coyoacan 

Popotla 

San  An^el 

Santa  Fe 

Tacuba 

Tacubaya 

Tizapan 

Tlalnepantla 

Tlalpara 

Vi^a  Canal 

Xochimilco 


For  particulars  of  all  routes  and  useful  historical 
and  archeological  information,  see  the  Company’s 
Official  Guide — price  50  centavos — to  be  obtained 
at  the  Company’s  Head  Offices,  2a  Gante,  No.  20, 
Mexico  City,  and  at  the  Suburban  ticket  office  in 
the  Zocalo,  Plaza  Constitucion,  No.  33. 


The  American  Chamber  of 
Commerce  of  Tampico,  Mexico 

Serves  the  American  business  Man  who  wishes  to  buy 
or  sell  in  Mexico,  and  is  of  invaluable  aid  to  him — as  well  as 
to  Americans  in  the  Republic. 

An  active  member  of  the  greatest  Chambers  of  Com- 
merce of  the  U.  S.  A ♦,  this  unique  and  perfectly  equipped 
organization  is  non-partisan,  bi-lingual,  international  and 
progressive.  Much  of  Tampico’s  extraordinary  growth  and 
development  is  due  to  the  sustained  and  intelligent  efforts 
of  the  men  composing  this  body. 

The  Journal  of  the  American  Chamber  of  Commerce  of 
Tampico  keeps  its  readers  ii>  active  touch  with  everything 
of  importance  pertaining  to  Mexico.  Its  timely  and  trust- 
worthy articles  on  Agriculture,  Mining,  Haciendas,  Fruit 
Ranches,  Oil  and  Trade  development,  etc.,  etc.,  are  practical 
and  immensely  valuable.  Subscription  price,  $2  a year, 
American  money. 

The  Neva  Business  Directory  of  Tampico,  issued  by 
the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  should  be  on  the  desk  of  every 
man  interested  in  Mexico.  By  mail,  postpaid,  $2.50  U.  S. 
money. 

The  Employment  Service  of  the  Chamber  of  Commerce 
is  of  value  to  men  wanting  jobs  and  jobs  wanting  men. 

WE  ARE  GLAD  TO  SERVE 


The  American  Chamber  of  Commerce 
of  Tampico,  S.  C.  L. 
APARTADO  NO.  777,  TAMPICO,  MEXICO 


FIRE-PROOF 

CONSTRUCTION 


MODERN 

CONVENIENCES 


HOTEL  IMPERIAL 

TAMPICO,  MEXICO 

The  finest  and  most  comfortable  hotel  in  the 
city.  Hot  and  cold  water.  Telephone  service. 
Baths.  Elevator.  Moderate  rates. 


77*  ree  Blocks  from  Depot  and  Fiscal  Wharf 


S.  H.  CASEY,  Manager 


CAFE  LOUISIAN 

TAMPICO,  MEXICO 


THE  ONLY  STRICTLY  HIGH  CLASS 

AMERICAN  RESTAURANT 

IN  TAMPICO 


SPOTLESSLY  CLEAN 
DELICIOUS  COOKING 
PERFECT  SERVICE 
MUSIC  — DANCING 

We  cater  to  those  discriminating  travelers 
who  demand  good  food  at 
reasonable  prices 

LADIES'  DINING  ROOM 
MEN'S  GRILL  ROOM 

Special  arrangements  for  Dinner  Parties  and 
Banquets 

CALLE  ADUANA,  NO.  26 

BETWEEN  ESTADO  AND  COMERCIO  STREETS 

( 2 minutes'  walk  from  the  Imperial  Hotel  ) 

FRED  C.  SWENSON,  Proprietor 


HOTEL  SOUTHERN 

TAMPICO,  MEXICO 


A Celebrated  Colonial  Hotel  known  throughout 
Mexico  as 

The  Home  of  Oil  Men, 
Commercial  Travelers, 

and  those  discriminating  tourists  who  prefer  comfort 
to  style  and  who  appreciate 

Good  Service,  Reasonable  Rates 

and  a location  in 

The  Business  Center  of  the  City 

0 

Commodious  Sample  Rooms 
E 

Within  easy  walking  distance  of  the  Docks  and 
Railway  Station 

E 


American  Management 


c .Ton )l 


ICZZZ  (PET ) 


THE  TAMPICO  BANKING 
COMPANY,  S.  A. 

TAMPICO,  MEXICO 

Organized  1912 

Members  American  Bankers  Association 

< 

Resources  6 Millions 

OFFICERS  AND  DIRECTORS 

BEN’W.  FOUTS,  President 

FLOYD  W.  DUNKERLEY,  Manager 

W.  R.  JONES,  Cashier 

CARLOS  C.  MILLIKEN,  Asst.  Cashier 

W.  A.  BOWIE 

ED.  WILLIAMS 

We  invite  correspondence  relative  to  your 
banking  requirements  in  the  world’s  greatest 
Oil  Fields. 

Every  description  of  exchange  and  general 
banking  business  transacted. 

Special  facilities  offered  for  exchange  busi- 
ness on  the  United  States  and  foreign  countries. 


'll  (OI= — — >1  |C=3|  [ 


>HI 


non 


o k> 


A.  G.  Mason  Company 

A G.  Mason  C.  C.  Freston 

General  Insurance  Agents 

Southern  Hotel  Building,  Apartado  141 

TAMPICO,  MEXICO 

The  Largest  General  Insurance  Agency 
in  North-Central  Mexico 

We  insure  Anything , Anyuhere  in  Mexico 

We  represent  the  greatest  and  strongest  Insurance 
Companies  in  the  World  and. 
our  Policies  cover 

ACCIDENT,  LIFE,  HEALTH,  FIRE, 
TRAVELERS’  BAGGAGE,  FREIGHT,  EXPRESS 
MATTER,  POSTAL  PACKAGES 
AND 

A nyt/iing  Stationary  or  in  Transit 

WE  CARRY  POLICIES  AGGREGATING 
FORTY-TWO  MILLION 
DOLLARS  GOLD 

Let  us  Bond  your  Employees.  Let  us  pay  your 
Losses.  Square  Dealing.  Prompt  Settlements. 


WRITE  US  FOR  ESTIMATES 


DROGUERIA  AMERICANA 
"LA  HUASTECA”  S.  A. 

(The  American  Drug  Store) 


Corner  Comercio  & Aurora  Sts. 
TAMPICO,  MEXICO 


Soda  Fountain  Service,  Pastry,  Pure 

Fountain  Pens  and  Inks,  Safety  Ra- 

Drugs and  Chemicals,  American 

zors  and  Blades,  Kodak  Films, 

Chocolates,  Patent  Medicines, 

Pipes  and  Smokers’  Supplies,  % 

Toilet  Soaps,  Perfumes, 

Cigars  and  Cigarettes,  Sta- 

Talcums, Toilet  Waters 

tionery,  Thermos,  Pathe 

of  best  French  per- 

TalkingMachines and 

fumers,  Combs 

Records,  and  Man- 

and Brushes, 

icure  Sets. 

We  make  Fine  American  Candies 
Lederle’s  Biologicals,  Always  Kept  Fresh 


Prescriptions  filled  by  Registered  Chemist 
Analytical  Laboratory 

QUALITY  - SERVICE  - MODERATE  PRICES 


General  Machinery  & 
Supply  Company,  S.A. 

Apartado  258,  Rivera  27 

TAMPICO,  MEXICO 


Agents  Cadillac  and  Studebaker 
Automobiles 

Oil  Field  and  Mining  Supplies 
Shelf  and  Heavy  Hardware 
Automobile  Accessories 
Builders’  and  Contractors’  Supplies 
Marine  Hardware  and  Supplies 
Paints,  Oils  and  Varnishes 

Agricultural,  Industrial,  Oil  Field  and  Mining 
Machinery 


Large  Stocks  in  Tampico.  Wire  or  Write  for  Quotations 


HIGHEST  QUALITY 


LOWEST  PRICE 


THE  TAMPICO 
TRIBUNE 

A Weekly  Newspaper  of  16  to  24  pages 
published  in  the  English  language,  con- 
taining all  the  news  of  Tampico,  the 
oil  fields  and  farms.  Up-to-date  in 
every  detail. 

Universally  recognized  as  the  leading 
foreign  daily  newspaper  in  Mexico. 

The  Tribune  is  the  newspaper  essential  to 
the  investor,  the  tourist,  or  the  adver- 
tiser interested  in  Mexican  affairs. 

In  General  News  — both  cable  and  local  — 
editorials,  special  features,  and  in 
articles  on  trade,  financial,  oil  and 
shipping  conditions,  The  Tampico 
Tribune  stands  at  the  head. 

Subscription  Price  $3.00,  U.  S.  Currency, 
a year. 


THE  TAMPICO  TRIBUNE 

TAMPICO,  MEXICO 


Sonora  News  Company 

Calle  Aduana  16 
TAMPICO,  MEXICO 


Books,  Magazines, 
Stationery 

Guidebooks,  Spanish  Methods, 
Interpreters,  Dictionaries,  Custom  House 
Tariff,  Mining  and  Stamp  Laws, 

Oil  Regulations,  Civil,  Commercial 
and  other  Codes 

Mexican  Souvenirs  and  Curios 
Cigars  and  Cigarettes 
Typewriters,  Adding  Machines 
Fountain  Pens,  Safety  Razors 
Fishing  Tackle 


pH 
^ 1 
' 4 


4 

. 1 


OIL  FIELD  OFFICE  OUTFITS 
AND  SUPPLIES 

The  Right  Goods  at  the  Right  Prices 

Agents  for  Remington  Typewriters  and 
Dalton  Adding  Machines 


Shirts,  Hats,  Shoes 

and  everything  in  the  haberdashery  line 
will  be  found  at 

EL  REGAL 

(SONORA  NEWS  CO.,  Proprietors) 
Calle  de  Comercio  No.  86 

TAMPICO,  MEXICO 


Stylish  American  Specialties 

in  wide  variety  at  the 
lowest  prices 

Clothing  ready  to  wear,  Palm  Beach  Suits, 
Straw  and  Felt  Hats,  Suit  Cases,  Valises, 
Collars,  Ties,  Underwear,  etc.,  etc. 

FINEST  GOODS  — LATEST  STYLES 


Rest  values  of  any  store  in  Mexico 


HITCHMAN  and  HOWARD 

Calle  Rivera  No.  32 
TAMPICO,  MEXICO 

Post  office  address:  Telegrams  to: 

\partado  561  Calle  Rivera  32  altos 


OILFIELD  MAPS 


H ell  and  Drilling  Reports 

Statistics  on  Oil  Development  and 
Production 

Blue  Printing 
Engineering  Supplies 
Land  and  Pipe  Line  Surveys 
Concession  Plans 
etc.,  etc. 

Hitchman’s 

Maps , Plans 9 Reports  and  Surveys 

are  the  recognized  standards  for 
accuracy  and  trustworthiness. 


New  York  Agents:  C S.  HAMMOND  & CO. 
30  Church  Street.  New  York  Citv 


Oil  Storage  Tanks 


We  invite  inquiries  for  oil  storage 
tanks  of  all  sizes,  agitators,  stills, 
condenser  boxes,  tar  coolers,  and 
other  steel  plate  construction.  We 
furnish  plans,  specifications  and 
estimates  without  obli^atin^  you. 

CHICAGO  BRIDGE  & IRON  WORKS 

NEW  YORK  CHICAGO  DALLAS 


Represented  by 

HO  U Z E C& 

ARMSTRONG 

TAMPICO 

MEXICO  CITY 

Factory  Railroad 

Tanks  Tanks 

BUILDERS  OF  HORTON  TANKS  AND  STEEL  PLATE  PRODUCTS 

94 


HAL  L.  BRENNAN 


mmj 


S.  E.  LEONARD 


BRENNAN  & LEONARD 

Customhouse  Brokers,  Forwarding  and 
Clearing  House  Agents  and 

MANUFACTURERS’  AGENTS 

1003  Iturbide  Street;  Laredo,  Texas 
Av.  Uruguay  19,  Mexico  City,  Mexico 


Operating  up  - to  - date  warehouses  in  Laredo, 
Texas,  and  Mexico  City. 


We  are  the  connecting  link  between 
American  and  Mexican  railways. 


the 


Our  service  is  widespread  and  we  are  thorough- 
ly equipped  to  render  prompt,  efficient  and 
satisfying  service  at  all  times. 

With  splendid  banking  arrangements  with  all 
principal  banks  in  Mexico,  we  are  in  a position 
to  render  information  to  all  shippers  in  the 
handling  of  business  with  the  republic  of 
Mexico. 

Laredo,  Texas,  is  the  main  gateway  to  Mexico, 
as  it  practically  divides  the  republic  in  half. 
We  are  therefore  able  to  give  unexcelled  ser- 
vice to  all  points  in  the  republic. 


WE  DO  PURCHASING  FOR  OUR  CUSTOMERS  ON  ORDERS 


J.  K.  Beretta,  President 

B.  M.  Alexander,  Vice-President  M.  W.  Brennan,  Cashier 

Sam  W.  Brown,  Vice-President  A.  L.  Vidaurri,  Asst.  Cashier 

LAREDO  NATIONAL  BANK 

United  States  Government  Depository 

Capital,  Surplus  and  Undivided  Profits  Over 

$500,000.00 

THE  STRONG  CONSERVATIVE  BANK  OF  THE  BORDER 

We  solicit  your  business,  which  we  assure  you  will 
always  be  given  the  best  possible  attention 


SONORA  NEWS  COMPANY 

LAREDO,  TEXAS 

Mexican  Art  Goods;  Souvenirs  and  Travelers’ 
Requisites  ; Guides  to  Mexico  ; English-Spanish 
Text  Books;  Dictionaries;  Spanish  Grammars 
and  Methods  for  Learning  Spanish;  Pocket 
Interpreters  ; Maps  ; Post  Cards ; Fiction,  etc. 
Mexican  Opals;  Drawn  Linen;  Fine  Zarapes ; 
Feather  Cards;  Kodaks  and  Photographic 
Specialties  ; Fine  Stationery.  Highest  quality 
Goods  at  Sensible  Prices.  For  information 
about  anything  Mexican,  write 

A.  W.  LANG,  Local  Manager 

SONORA  NEWS  COMPANY,  LAREDO,  TEXAS 


R.  R.  FOGEL  & CO. 

173  BROADWAY  NEW  YORK 


Manufacturers  of 

SOLID  GOLD,  ROLLED  PLATE  AND  MOTHER  OF  PEARL 

JEWELRY 


PALM  BEACH 
Trade  Mark 


1-1  K.  GOLD  FILLED  CHAINS 
May  be  worn  on  belt,  coat  lapel  or  vest. 

Our  Gold  Filled  Chains  are  made  of  solid  gold  over 
composition  metal,  in  red,  green  and  white  gold  or 
in  combination  of  these  colors. 


SUNSET  SNAP, 
separable  links 
are  made  in  a 
large  variety  of  handsome  patterns,  in  14  K.  gold 
Filled,  Platinio  and  Mother  of  Pearl. 


Ml  Vi  ays  Ready  Pencils  are  the  most  practical  and 
best.  and  are  made  in  Silver  and  14  K.  Gold  Filled, 
and  in  three  sizes. 


R.  R.  FOGEL  & CO. 

173  BROADWAY  NEW  YORK 


Manufacturers  oj 

SOLID  GOLD,  ROLLED  PLATE  AND  MOTHER  OF  PEARL 

JEWELRY 


FOGEL  and  SUN  14  K.  Gold  Filled  ONE  PIECE 
Collar  Buttons 


NATIONAL  RAILWAYS  OF  MEXICO 

AND  OPERATED  LINES 

Mexican  Government  Administration  ) 


The  most  important  railway  system  in  Mexico,  extend- 
ing from  the  United  States  border  to  the  Guatemalan 
frontier;  also,  between  leading  Pacific  Ocean  and  Mexican 

Gulf  ports. 

11,142  KILOMETERS  2,379  KILOMETERS 

STANDARD  GAUGE  NARROW  GAUGE 


SEA  PORTS 

GULF  OF  MEXICO  PACIFIC  OCEAN 

Tampico 

Veracruz  Manzanillo 

Puerto  Mexico  (Coatzacoalcos  Salina  Cruz 


BORDER  GATE-WAYS 

El  Paso,  Eagle  Pass,  Laredo  and  Brownsville,  on  the  United  States 
border. 

Suchiate,  on  the  Guatemalan  frontier. 


Direc  t connections  with  principal  United  States  railways  and  with 
numerous  steamship  lines. 

REPRESENTATIVES  ABROAD 

F.  P.  DE  HOYOS, 

General  Agent, 

3505  Woolworth  Bldg.,  NEW  YORK,  N.  Y. 

GEO.  B.  ALEMAN 
General  Agent, 

203  Foster  Building,  HOUSTON,  Texas 

F.  TREVINO 
General  Agent, 

I.  & G.  N.  Ry.  Depot  Bldg.,  LAREDO,  Tex. 


GENERAL  OFFICES 

2a  Calle  de  Bolivar  No.  19,  MEXICO  CITY,  Mex. 


NATIONAL  RAILWAYS  OF  MEXICO 

AND  OPERATED  LINES 

( Mexican  Government  Administration  ) 

Passenger  trains  carrying  through  Pullman  sleepers 
and  club -cars,  with  broiler  service,  daily, 

BETWEEN 

MEXICO  CITY  and  SAN  ANTONIO,  Tex.,  via  Laredo, 

“ “ “ HOUSTON,  Tex.,  via  Brownsville, 

“ “ “ EL  PASO,  Texas, 

TAMPICO,  Tams  “ HOUSTON,  Tex.,  via  Brownsville. 


Daily  through  Pullman  sleepers,  with  broiler  service, 
BETWEEN 

MONTERREY  and  HOUSTON,  Texas,  via  Laredo, 

TORREON  “ SAN  ANTONIO,  Tex.,  via  Eagle  Pass, 
MEXICO  CITY  “ TAMPICO,  via  San  Luis  Potosi', 

MEXICO  CITY  “ GUADALAJARA. 


National  Railways,  sleepers,  with  broiler  service,  daily, 
BETWEEN 

MEXICO  CITY  and  VERACRUZ  (short  line 
GUADALAJARA  and  MANZANILLO; 

AND  THREE  TIMES  PER  WEEK, 

BETWEEN: 

VERACRUZ  and  SUCHIATE 


A.  G.  ROEL  J.  M.  CARDENAS 

General  Passenger  Agent,  Assistant  General  Passenger 

Agent 


2a  Calle  de  Bolivar  No.  19,  MEXICO,  D.  F.  Mex. 


GENERAL  OFFICES 

of  the 

National  Railways  of  Mexico 

J 

and 

Operated  Lines 

2a  Calle  de  Bolivar,  No.  19 
MEXICO  CITY 

MEXICO 


Mexican  Railway 
Company 

“The  Picturesque  Line  of  Mexico” 

Had  this  railway  been  constructed  with 
the  especial  object  of  providing  beautiful  scen- 
ery, it  could  not  have  been  more  successfully 
accomplished. 

The  only  standard  gauge  and  shortest  line 
between  Mexico  City,  Orizaba,  Cordoba  and 
V eracruz. 

Through  Daily  Trains.  Broiler  = Buffet  Sleeping 
Cars.  Through  service  between 
Mexico  City  and  Puebla 

QUICK  FREIGHT  TRAIN  SERVICE 

Special  Excursion  Trains  every  Sunday  to 
San  Juan  Teotihuacan,  where  may  be  ex- 
plored the  Historical  Pyramids  and  their  in- 
teresting interiors. 

Mexico  City  Ticket  Office 

“HOTEL  DEL  COLISEO” 

3a  Calle  de  Bolivar  No.  28 


For  Passenger  and  Freight  rates,  or  any  other  desired 
information  address 

E.  G.  WUERPEL 

General  Freight  and  Passenger  Agent 


NEW  ORLEANS- 
BROWNSVILLE 

GATEWAY  to  and  from 


MEXICO 


Through 

Pullman  Sleepers 

New  Orleans  and  Brownsville 
Houston  and  Tampico 

Houston  and  Mexico  City  via 
Brownsville 

Houston  and  Monterrey  via 
Corpus  Christi  and  Laredo 


THROUGH 

PULLMAN  CLUB -CAFE  CARS 

SERVING  ALL  MEALS  BETWEEN 
HOUSTON  AND  MEXICO  CITY  AND  TAMPICO 

TTese  cars  provide  comfortable  lounging  room  besides  serving  meals 
and  refreshments;  affording  the  greatest  degree  of  travel  comfort. 


C.  W.  STRAIN,  General  Passenger  Agent 
HOUSTON,  TEXAS 


Go  East  or  West  by  Sea 

Visit  Mexico,  Guatemala,  Salvador, 
Nicaragua,  Panama  Canal, 
Havana  (Eastbound) 

The  new  de  luxe  passenger  and  express-freight  service  of  the 

PACIFIC  MAIL  STEAMSHIP  COMPANY 

between  San  Francisco,  Los  Angeles  and  New  York  is  a travel 
opportunity  of  never-ending  interest 
and  delight. 

Si^ht-seein^  stops  ashore  at  picturesque  Manzanillo,  Mexico ; 
San  Jose  de  Guatemala;  Acajutla  and  La  Libertad,  Salvador; 
Corinto,  Nicaragua;  Cristobal  and  Balboa,  Canal  Zone ; 

Havana,  Cuba ; Baltimore  and  Norfolk. 

Sailings  from  New  York,  San  Francisco  and  Los  Angeles 
about  every  17  days.  Modern  American  twin-screw  ships, 
“Colombia,”  “Ecuador,”  “Venezuela,”  and  “Santa  Ana,” 
especially  designed  for  Tropical  service.  De  Luxe  suites. 
Home-like  staterooms.  Electric  fan  in  every  cabin.  Deck 
sports.  Music.  Swimming,  tank.  More  than  74  years’  ex- 
perience in  pleasing  passengers  makes  Pacific  Mail  cuisine  a 
delight.  Fares,  first-class,  $270  and  $300. 

PANAMA  SERVICE 

Between.San  Francisco,  Los  Angeles,  Mexico-Central  America 
and  Canal  Zone.  Frequent  sailings  by  popular 
and  comfortable  liners. 

For  complete  information  communicate  with  Pacific  Mail 
office  nearest  your  home,  or  your  favorite 
steamship  tourist  a&ent  or 
railroad  a&ent. 

503  So.  Spring,  St.  General  Offices  10  Hanover  Square 
LOS  ANGELES  SAN  FRANCISCO  NEW  YORK 

Agents  in  Mexico: 

Mazatlan,  Wohler  Bartning , Sues. 

Manzanillo,  Adolfo  Stoll  & Co. 

Guadalajara,  G.  Amsinck  & Co. 

Mexico  City,  Berea  O’Kelly  & Co. 


THE  MEXICAN  STATES  LINE 

COMPANIA  NAVEERA  DE  LOS  ESTADOS  DE  MEXICO,  S.  A. 

Oj>erates  a fast,  frequent  and  popular  service  between 
San  Francisco,  Panama  and  Central  American  Points 
_ T >■*!!  IVdro  Los  Angeles),  Ensenada,  San  Jose  del  Cabo, 
I*  . S.-nua  L« -ilia,  Guaymas,  Mazatlan,  San  Bias,  Puerto 
V • M inzaiiillo,  Acapulco,  Puerto  Angel  and  Salina  Cruz, 

Mexico  ..'id  by  trans-shipment  to  many  minor  ports  connecting 
th  the  chief  cities  of  the  Republic— thence  to  Champerico  and 
•1  ' < !<•  Guatemala;  La  Libert  ad  and  La  TTnion,  in  Salvador; 
1 Vina]  >;da  and  Corinto,  Nicaragua. 

>*•  amer-  connect  at  San  Francisco  with  ships  for  Northern 
Orient  Japan,  China,  India,  etc.  !,  and  at 
; ( niz  and  Central  American  Ports  with  steamers  for  the 
Panama  Canal,  European,  Atlantic,  and  South  American  Ports. 

A > t i :t  < Vuz  a direct  railway  connection  is  made  across  the 
Lfhmu>  < ; Tehuantepec  to  Puerto  Mexico  and  Vera  Cruz  with 
- ? ■ b t New  Orleans,  Cuba,  New  York  and  European  Ports. 

1 -]•!•  ndid  ships  of  this  popular  line  carry  travelers  to  every 

• nt  ] ! « e on  the  Pacific  Coast,  in  far  greater  comfort  than  is 
]MMRible  by  railway. 

\ i nh t ful  voyage  to  tropical  latitudes,  replete  with  charm, 

and  with  the  safety  and  luxury  of  a fine  hotel. 

General  Offices:  Mazatlan,  Mexico,  and  San  Francisco,  California. 
1 ’ill  inf  nn: it  ion  as  to  sailing  dates,  rates,  etc.,  on  application  to 
tin  i oinp.-Tiy  - agents  at  any  of  the  ports  mentioned. 

I nf«  r<  ! . to  the  Company’s  fine  fleet,  see  the  opposite  page. 


LA  COMPANIA  NAVIERA  DE  LOS  ESTADOS 
DE  MEXICO,  S.  A. 

(THE  MEXICAN  STATES  LINE) 

Steamships  are  large,  speedy,  commodious,  and  of  the  most  modern 
construction.  Stanchly  built,  and  fitted  with  every  known  appliance 
to  ensure  the  comfort  and  safety  of  passengers,  they  are  as  popular 
with  the  traveling  public  as  any  of  the  finest  trans- Atlantic  ships. 

# The  quality  of  the  ships’  personnel ; the  provision  of  efficient  ser- 
vice, whether  in  the  large,  airy,  perfectly-equipped  staterooms,  on 
deck  or  in  the  handsome  and  spacious  dining-room;  the  maintenance 
of  the  highest  standards  of  food  and  other  requisites;  the  library, 
music  and  the  various  games  supplied  for  the  entertainment  of 
passengers,  with  the  added  consideration  of  personal  security  in  well- 
found,  sea-worthy  ships,  manned  by  experienced  seamen,  combine 
to  make  travel  by  one  of  the  Mexican  States  Line  steamers  one  of 
the  most  agreeable  of  human  experiences. 

Balboa’s  Ocean  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  the  world,  and  few 
ports  are  more  charmingly  picturesque  than  those  of  Mexico  and 
Central  America. 

The  voyage  on  a ship  of  this  well-known  line  insures  perfect  com- 
fort, rest  and  enjoyment,  with  delightful  company  on  shipboard 
and  liberal  stopovers  en  route. 

Write  for  complete  information  to  the  Mexican  States  Line, 
Mazatlan,  Mexico,  or  San  Francisco,  California. 

For  a list  of  ports  touched  at,  see  the  opposite  page. 


MEXICAN  NAVIGATION  COMPANY 


COMPANIA  N A VIERA  MEXICANA,  S.  A.) 


“COAHUILA” 

“JALISCO” 

“TABASCO” 

“TAMAULIPAS” 

“TEHUANTEPEC 

“WASHINGTON” 

“BOLIVAR” 


of  3,200  tons  capacity 
“ 3,650  “ 

“ 3,650  “ 

“ 1,228  “ 

“ 1,228  “ 

“ 928  “ 

“ 2,550  “ 

“ 2 550  “ 


Company  Fleet 


.S.  “MEXICO” 


MEXICAN  GULF  SERVICES 

Sailings  every  ten  days  from  Vera  Cruz  for: 

Puerto  Mexico,  Front  era,  Laguna,  Campeche  and 
Progreso. 

Sailings  every  20  days  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Tampico. 

Sailings  every  25  days  from  New  Orleans  to  Progreso 
and  Vera  Cruz. 

Irregular  Service  between  New  Orleans,  Tampico,  Vera 
Cruz  and  Progreso  subject  to  port  conditions. 

PACIFIC  OCEAN  SERVICES 

Sailings  every  40  days  from  San  Francisco,  Cal.,  for: 

San  Pedro,  Ensenada,  San  Jose  del  Cabo,  Mazatlan, 
Guaymas,  La  Paz,  Mazatlan,  San  Bias,  Manzanillo, 
Acapulco,  and  Salina  Cruz. 

Sailings  every  15  days  from  Guaymas  for  Salina  Cruz, 
calling  at  Topolobampo,  Santa  Rosalia,  La  Paz,  San  Jose 
del  Cabo,  Mazatlan,  San  Bias,  Puerto  Vallarta,  Manzan- 
illo, Zihuatanejo,  Acapulco,  Minizo,  and  Puerto  Angel. 

PASSENGER  SERVICE 

All  the  ships  have  splendid  accommodations  and  equip- 
ment for  the  transportation  of  passengers. 

CARGO  SERVICE 

General  between  all  the  ports  mentioned. 

Special  by  the  Manzanillo  and  Salina  Cruz  lines,  in 
eonneetion  with  the  National  Railways  of  Mexico:  through 
rates  between  Pacific  Coast  ports  and  interior  points. 


TORCUATO  MARCOR  FELIX  GONZALEZ 

General  Agent  Sub-Agent 

GENERAL  OFFICES 
Calle  de  Gante  No.  19 


MEXICO,  D.  F 


THE  GRAND  HOTEL,  Ltd. 

YOKOHAMA,  JAPAN 

Telegraphic  Address  : Mitchell  McDonald 

“ Grand  ” Managing  Director 

The  Hotel  with  a World-Wide  Reputation 

Finest  location  in  Yokohama.  On  the  Bund,  over- 
looking Tokyo  Bay.  Ideal  Situation.  Motor-car 
meets  all  express  trains.  English-speaking  porters 
meet  incoming  ships  and  relieve  the  passengers  of 
all  trouble  and  delay  at  the  custom-house. 

Accommodations  for  500  guests.  Spacious  Ball 
Rooms.  Beautiful  Dining  Rooms.  Reception  Rooms. 
Orchestra  at  Meals.  Dances  and  Special  Entertain- 
ments for  Guests.  Matchless  Views. 

Notable  for  the  beauty  of  its  location,  the  attractive- 
ness of  its  surroundings,  the  perfection  of  its  system 
and  for  its  wholesome  and  delicious  food.  The  latter 
is  prepared  with  scrupulous  attention  to  cleanliness. 
Pure  drinking  water.  Private  Garage.  Laundry. 

Rooms  single  or  en  suite,  with  or  without  baths. 
Moderate  Rates.  American  Plan. 


Proposed 

Murrav  Hill  Hotel  The  Belmont  TheBiltmore  Hotel  Commodore 

1 — mIs.V.P.  JamesWoods  Grand  Central  Ter.  George  W.J>weeney.Y.  p. 


cnvman 

fSeuJ  York, 

Sofin7flc S.  Bowman,  President 


eis 


A personal  hospitality  and  individual  atten- 
tion  are  assured  by  the  combined  efforts  of 
a group  of  the  best  hotel  managers  in  the 
world. 

The  traveler  arriving  at  Grand  Central 
Terminal  can  go  directly  to  any  one  of  the 
Bowman  Hotels  at  Pershing  Square  without 
taxicab  or  baggage  transfer. 

Surface  cars,  elevated  and  subways  at  hand 
bring  every  part  of  the  city  within  easy  touch. 


Pershing  Square ; SVew  York, 

Bike  World  Centre  of  Great  Hotels 


BOWMAN  HOTELS 

JOHN  McE.  BOWMAN,  President 

The  Bowman  Hotels  consist  of 
the  following,: 

THE  BILTMORE,  New  York 

Eugene  D.  Miller,  Vice  President 

THE  COMMODORE,  New  York 

George  W.  Sweeney,  Vice  President 

THE  BELMONT,  New  York 

James  Woods,  Vice  President 

THE  ANSONIA,  New  York 

Edward  M.  Tierney,  Vice  President 

MURRAY  HILL  HOTEL,  New  York 

James  Woods,  Vice  President 

WESTCHESTER  BILTMORE,  Rye,  N.  Y. 
PROVIDENCE  BILTMORE,  Providence,  R.  I. 

John  McE.  Bowman,  L.  C.  Wallick 

HOTEL  SEVILLA,  Havana,  Cuba 

H.  B.  Judkins,  Resident  Manager 
THE  GRISWOLD,  Eastern  Pt.,  Conn.  (Summer) 

Earle  E.  Garley,  Vice  President 

THE  BELLE  VIEW,  Belleair,  Florida  (Winter) 

Earle  E.  Carley,  Vice  President 

LOS  ANGELES  BILTMORE,  Los  Angles,  Cal.. 

James  Woods,  Vice  President  (Now  Building) 


HOTEL  SEVILLA 

Havana,  Cuba 

JOHN  McE.  BOWMAN,  President 
H.  B.  JUDKINS,  Resident  Manager 

XN  Havana  one  £oes  to  the 
Sevilla  as  inevitably  as  one 
&oes  to  The  Biltmore  in  New 
York.  It  is  the  finest  hotel  in  Cuba. 
Situated  just  off  the  famous  Prado, 
in  the  center  of  the  city,  with  all  the 
“things  to  see”  close  by. 


HOTEL  SEVILLA 


Havana,  Cuba 


The  Sevilla’s  patio  tea-room  and 
dinner  dancing  are  favored  by  local 
society  and  tourists. 

With  theatres  and  clubs  at  hand, 
facing  the  Presidential  Palace  and  a 
beautiful  park,  the  hotel’s  location 
is  ideal. 

The  service  and  cuisine  are  delight- 
fully American,  while  the  hig,h  ceil- 
ings, tiled  floors  and  private  balconies 
provide  a pleasing  foreign  atmos- 
phere. 


MEXICO’S  LEADING 
HOUSE-FURNISHERS 


] 


DINNERWARE 

SILVERWARE 

GLASSWARE 

KITCHENWARE 

LAMPS 

"GIFTS 

ALWAYS  THE 
BEST  IN 
QUALITY 
PRICES 
ASSORTMENT 
& 

SERVICE 

LOEB’S 


PALMA  AND  MADERO  STREETS 

MEXICO,  D.  F. 


On  your  way  to  Mexico 


visit 


The  City  of  a Thousand  Wonders 


You  should  not  miss  seeing  the  colorful  Cuban 
capital  — it  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  spots  in 
the  Americas.  Arrange  for  stop-over  on  your  way 
to  Mexico  via  Ward  Line. 

Walk  along  the  ramparts  and  inspect  the  dungeons 
of  ancient  Morro  Castle  — linger  amid  the  relics 
of  historic  cathedrals  — partake  of  tasty  native 
dishes  in  quaint  restaurants  open  to  the  street. 
Everywhere  new  scenes  and  faces;  manners  and 
customs  that  are  “ different.”  And  then,  at  night, 
the  theatres,  the  music,  the  brilliantly  lighted  Prado 
and  Malecon  and  other  scenes  which  have  earned 
for  Havana  the  sobriquet  — “ The  Paris  of  the 
Western  Hemisphere.” 

For  information  and  illustrated  literature,  address 

N.  Y.  & Cuba  Mail  Steamship  Company 

Foot  of  Wall  St.,  New  York 

WARD  LINE 


Finest  Steamship  Service  to 

MEXICO 

Whether  you  visit  Mexico  for  pleasure  or  business, 
be  sure  to  travel  in  the  most  comfortable  as  well 
as  the  most  economical  way  on  one  of  the  large, 
swift  steamers  of  the  Ward  Line.  A fast  route 
with  frequent  regular  sailings  from  New  York 
via  Havana*  for 

VRRA  CRUZ  — One  of  Mexico’s  principal  seaports  and  a 
city  full  of  historic  interest.  Rail  connections  over  the 
most  beautiful  and  impressive  mountain  route  in  the 
world  to 

MP2XICO  CITY  — Capital  of  the  Republic.  An  interesting 
example  of  the  remarkable  progress  made  by  Mexico 

in  recent  years. 

TAMPICO  — Famous  for  the  oil  fields  in  its  immediate 

vicinity. 

PUERTO  MEXICO  — Connections  with  the  Pacific  Ocean 
and  Western,  Central  American  and  South  American 
ports.  '*■  » 

PROGRESO,  Yucatan — Gateway  to  the  land  of  interesting 
ruins  and  buried  cities. 

'Sailings  via  Nassau,  Bahamas,  in  season. 


WARD 


From  the  moment  you  ascend  the  gangplank  of  a 
Ward  Line  steamer  you  are  impressed  with  the 
care  that  is  exercised  to  provide  for  your  comfort. 
The  cuisine  rivals  that  of  the  finest  hotels.  State- 
rooms are  commodious  and  well  ventilated,  with 
lounges,  reclining  chairs  and  all  conveniences. 

No  traveler  who  has  ever  taken  a voyage  on  one 
of  the  Ward  Line  ships  would  consider  any  other 
route  to  Mexico  or  the  West  Indies. 

For  Sailings , full  information  and 
Illustrated  Literature,  address 

N.  Y.  & Cuba  Mail  Steamship  Company 
Foot  of  Wall  St.,  New  York 


I I N F 

GETTY  CENTER  LIBRARY  HHHI 


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